Period Ottoman Coats Survey

asim al-talib (mka Woodrow Jarvis Hill) asim@mindspring.com Last Edited March the Sixth, A.S. XLI

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Goals I wanted to do three things with this survey:
• • •

Provide references for building period patterns from source garments, Analyze data for sorting out possible changes in designs over SCA-period, and Gather information that would aid in my hypothesis that period coats did not subscribe to a specific pattern, or even sets of patterns.

Note that this survey is far from detailed. Although we are blessed with a surfeit of extent clothing to view, all the pieces are the period equivalent of haute couture, and may or may not reflect the realities of daily clothing for the majority of people, including nobles, in period urban Ottoman society. 2D images also lack details that aid in pattern reconstruction. Some examples include, but are not limited to:
• •

What seams, if any, exist on the back and/or shoulders? (note that some Ottoman garments have been observed to have shoulder seams on only one shoulder) Which body parts, if any, where the various sections of the coat were designed to fit with? For example, does the tip of the lower-body triangle gore start on the waist, the hip, or in-between?

Also, to aid on cataloging, we will be breaking down dating into timecodes, as listed above. This is so that we can sort out dates, and avoid the hodge-podge of dating ranges (century, half-century, year range of ruler, exact year) that exists amongst sources. The student needing additional detail is encouraged to follow the sources listed. In gathering this data, I focus upon major tailoring pattern issues, as notated by seamlines and related points. By and large, I ignore fabric choices, linings, hemming, sleeve lengths, collars, and other bits of data that might be applicable to the point of clothing re-creation, but might also obscure the main point of re-producing overall coat patterns. The potential re-creator should look to this survey as a beginning, and not as a final word on the topic(s) at hand.

Timecodes for Coats Survey Sheet 16th Century (1500s) : A 15th Century (1400s) : B 1st 2st 3st 4st quarter quarter quarter quarter (xx00-xx25) : 1 (xx26-xx50), also 1st half : 2 (xx51-xx75) : 3 (xx76-xx99), also 2nd half : 4 Length (cm) 140.5 87 158.5 87 150 137

Date A1 A1 A1 A1 A3 A3 A2

Reference PGL TT TT TT TT TT ASSM Work

Page B10 Illo 6 Illo 9 Illo 11 Illo 15 Illo 20 194

Notable elements "Base" coat Angle of front opening High start of side gore Layout of sides and hip gore Hip "bell" Larger sleeves

Reference ID

LibraryThing Link http://www.librarything.com/workinfo.php?book=302123 http://www.librarything.com/workinfo.php?book=7614 http://www.librarything.com/workinfo.php?book=7597

TT

PGL

The Topkapi Saray Museum: Textiles Palace of Gold and Light : Treasures from the Topkapi, Istanbul The age of Sultan Süleyman the Magnificent

ASSM

Bibliography Works Cited TT: The Topkapi Saray Museum: Textiles PGL: Palace of Gold and Light : Treasures from the Topkapi, Istanbul ASSM : The age of Sultan Süleyman the Magnificent Works Consulted Splendors of the Ottoman Empire The Age of Sultan Suleyman the Magnificent Empire of the Sultans : Ottoman art from the Khalili collection Style and Status P Magazine (Issue 3, Spring/Summer 2000)