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DIRECTIONS

Barcelona

Up-to-date DIRECTIONS

Inspired IDEAS

User-friendly MAPS

ACCURATE RELIABLE INFORMATIVE


Barcelona
DIRECTIONS

WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY

Jules Brown

NEW YORK LONDON DELHI


www.roughguides.com
2

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Contents

CONTENTS
Sagrada Famlia and Glries ....................133
Introduction 4 Esquerra de lEixample....................................140
Grcia and Parc Gell ......................................146
Camp Nou, Pedralbes and Sarri-Sant
Ideas 9 Gervasi ................................................................................152
Tibidabo and Parc del Collserola ........160
The big six ..........................................................................10 Montserrat ......................................................................164
Childrens Barcelona ..............................................12 Sitges ....................................................................................168
Stay in style ......................................................................14
On the move ....................................................................16
Festive Barcelona ......................................................18 Accommodation 173
Shops and markets..................................................20
Parks and gardens....................................................22
The modernista trail ..............................................24
Sports and recreation ..........................................26 Essentials 185
Historic Barcelona ....................................................28 Arrival....................................................................................187
Cafs ........................................................................................30 Information ....................................................................187
Specialist museums................................................32 City transport and tours..................................189
On the waterfront ......................................................34 Festivals and events ..........................................191
Out for lunch ....................................................................36 Directory ............................................................................192
Galleries and artists ................................................38
Traditional food and drink ................................40
Music, dance and theatre ................................42
Language 195
Out on the town ..........................................................44
City landscapes ............................................................46

Index 201
Places 49
Along the Ramblas ..................................................51
Barri Gtic ..........................................................................59 Colour Maps
Port Vell and Barceloneta ................................73
El Raval ..................................................................................81 Barcelona
La Ribera and Sant Pere ..................................91 Old Town
Parc de la Ciutadella ..........................................102 Barcelona Transport
Montjuc ............................................................................106
Port Olmpic and Poble Nou ......................117
Dreta de lEixample ............................................122 Useful Stuff
4
Introduction to

Barcelona
INTRODUCTION

Its tempting to say that theres nowhere quite like


Barcelona theres certainly not another city in Spain to
touch it for sheer style, looks or energy. The glossy
mags and travel press dwell enthusiastically on its out-
rageous architecture, designer shopping, hip bars and
vibrant cultural scene, but Barcelona is more than just
this years fad. Its a confident, progressive city, one that
is tirelessly self-renewing while preserving all thats best
about its past.
The province of Catalunya
Palau

(Catalonia in English), of
which Barcelona is the
Gell

capital, has a historical


identity going back as far
as the ninth century, and
through the long period of
domination by outside
powers, as well as during
the Franco dictatorship, it
proved impossible to stifle
the Catalan spirit.The city
reflects this independence,
being at the forefront of
Spanish political activism,
radical design and archi-
tecture, and commercial
dynamism.

When to visit
The best times to go to Barcelona are late spring and early autumn, when
the weather is still comfortably warm, around 2125C, and walking the
streets isnt a chore. In summer, the city can be unbearably hot and humid
with temperatures averaging 28C (but often a lot more). August sees the cli-
mate at its most unwelcoming, while many shops, bars and restaurants
close as local inhabitants head out of the city in droves. Its worth consider-
ing a winter break, as long as you dont mind the prospect of occasional
rain. Its generally still warm enough to sit out at a caf, even in December
when the temperature hovers around 13C.

Contents Introduction
5
Rambla
de Raval

INTRODUCTION

This is seen most perfectly in the glorious modernista (Art


Nouveau) buildings that stud the citys streets and avenues. Antoni
Gaud is the most famous of those who have left their mark on
Barcelona in this way: his Sagrada Famlia church is rightly
revered, but just as fascinating are the (literally) fantastic houses,
apartment buildings and parks that he and his contemporaries
designed.
The city also boasts a medieval old town full of pivotal
buildings from an earlier age of expansion and a stupendous
artistic legacy, from national (ie, Catalan) collections of
Romanesque, Gothic and contemporary art to major galleries
containing the lifes work of the Catalan artists Joan Mir and
Antoni Tpies (not to mention a celebrated showcase of the work
of Pablo Picasso).
Barcelona is a surprisingly easy place to find your way around,
with the greater city, in effect, a series of self-contained
neighbourhoods stretching out from the harbour, flanked by a
brace of parks and girdled by the wooded Collserola mountains.

Contents Introduction
6

Plaa
del Pi
INTRODUCTION

You could see most of the major sights in a long weekend, though
it pays to get off the beaten track when you can. Designer
boutiques in gentrified old-town quarters, street opera singers
belting out an aria, bargain lunches in workers taverns,
neighbourhood funicular rides,

Hanging
unmarked gourmet restaurants, craft
outlets and workshops, restored
medieval palaces, suburban walks
hams

and specialist galleries all are just


as much Barcelona as the Ramblas
or Gauds Sagrada Famlia.

Contents Introduction
Barcelona

INTRODUCTION
AT A GLANCE

THE RAMBLAS


La Ribera
One of the citys most famous
sights, the kilometre-long tree-lined
avenue, filled with pedestrians,
pavement cafs and performance
artists, is the hub of any visit.

BARRI GTIC
The Gothic Quarter is the
medieval nucleus of the city a
labyrinth of twisting streets and
historic buildings, including La
Seu (the cathedral) and the
palaces and museums around
Plaa del Rei.

EL RAVAL

Barri Gtic

Still on the cusp between edgi-


ness and artiness, this western
old-town neighbourhood contains
both the flagship museum of con-
temporary art and the pick of the
latest designer shops, bars and
restaurants.

PORT VELL
The spruced-up Old Port harbour
area features high-profile visitor
attractions like the aquarium and
Maremgnum retail-and-leisure
centre.

Port Vell

LA RIBERA
The easternmost old-town neigh-
bourhood, home to the Picasso
museum, is also a fashionable
boutique-and-bar destination.

Contents Introduction
8
EIXAMPLE
The gridded nineteenth-century
uptown district contains some of
Europes most extraordinary archi-
INTRODUCTION

tecture including Gauds


Sagrada Famlia.

Barceloneta

BARCELONETA
The former fishing quarter beyond
Port Vell boasts the citys most
concentrated batch of seafood
restaurants, and marks the start of
a series of beaches running up
past the Port Olmpic.

Castel de Montjuc

Casa Batll, Eixample

GRCIA
The nicest of the suburbs on the
northern edge of the city centre is
a noted nightlife destination, with
some offbeat bars, independent
cinemas and great restaurants
contained within its charming
streets and squares.

MONTJUC
Barcelonas best art museums
and gardens, and the main
Olympic stadium, are sited on the
fortress-topped hill to the south-
west of the centre.

Contents Introduction
Ideas

Contents Ideas
10
The big six Gauds greatest
 Sagrada Famlia
fantasies to If theres a more famous unfinished church
in the world, Barcelona would like to know
Picassos earliest
about it the temple dedicated to the
works, Gothic tow- Sacred Family is the essential pilgrimage
for Gaud fans.
ers to Romanesque
P.133  SAGRADA FAMLIA AND
frescoes, ceramic GLRIES

dragons to human
statues
Barcelonas must-
see attractions
glory in their extraordinary
diversity. All are easily
experienced in a long
weekend, and with no
charge to see three of
them theres no excuse for
missing out on the citys
weird and wonderful high-
lights.

 Museu Picasso
Trace the genesis of the artists genius in
the city that Picasso liked to call home.
P.93  LA RIBERA AND SANT
PERE

Contents Ideas
11
 Parc Gell
Gauds most playful instincts assert them-
selves in Barcelonas unrivalled public park,
where contorted stone pavilions, ginger-
bread buildings and surreal ceramics com-
bine unforgettably.
P.147  GRCIA AND PARC GELL

 The Ramblas
The citys iconic central thoroughfare is the
setting for one of Europes greatest free
shows, as buskers, stall-holders, hawkers,
eccentrics, locals and tourists collide to
gleeful effect.
P.51  ALONG THE RAMBLAS

 La Seu
The citys majestic Gothic cathedral anchors
the old town, with visits concentrating on
the lush palm-filled cloister and marvellous
roof terrace.
P.59  BARRI GTIC

 Museu Nacional dArt de


Catalunya (MNAC)
The National Museum of Art celebrates the
grandeur of Romanesque and Gothic art,
two periods in which Catalunyas artists
were pre-eminent in Spain.
P.109  MONTJUC

Contents Ideas
12
Theres plenty for
Childrens Barcelona
children to do,
much of it free (for
under 4s) or inex-
pensive (for under
12s). The main
problem is trans-
port, as most
metro stations
(except on line 2)
have stairs or esca-
lators adults often
face a stiff climb
with the pushchair.
Disposable  Plaa de Vicen Martorell
nappies, baby food While children play in the traffic-free
squares playground, parents can rest up at
and formula milk are wide- the excellent caf.
ly available in pharmacies P.83  EL RAVAL

and supermarkets, though


baby-changing areas are
rare, except in department
stores and shopping cen-
tres.

 LAqurium
Come face to face with sharks and other
sea creatures in Port Vells highest profile
(and highest-priced) all-weather family
attraction.
P.75  PORT VELL AND
BARCELONETA

Contents Ideas
13
 Parc dAtraccions
On the heights of Tibidabo, overlooking the
city, this terrific amusement park mixes old-
fashioned rides with high-tech experiences.
P.160  TIBIDABO AND PARC
DEL COLLSEROLA

 Parc Zoolgic
Dolphins to big cats, Barcelonas zoo packs
the worlds fauna into the rolling grounds of
the citys nicest park.
P.104  PARC DE LA
CIUTADELLA
 Font Mgica
The lights and music cut in on cue several
nights a week at Montjucs longstanding
sound-and-light show one for all the
family.
P.106  MONTJUC

 Poble Espanyol
See Spain in a day in the Spanish Village,
an outdoor museum of reconstructed build-
ings, artisans workshops and cafs that
makes a great family day out.
P.108  MONTJUC

Contents Ideas
14
Stay in style As befits Spains  Neri
style and design This dramatic renovation of an old town
palace makes a stylish base in the Barri
capital, Barcelona Gtic.
has a wide array of P.179  ACCOMMODATION

chic hotels to suit


the most fashion-
able visitor. Rooms
in the citys most
elegant hotels start
at about e250 a
night, and its
essential to book well in
advance as Barcelona
doesnt really have an off-
season though prices do
come down sometimes in
August or at weekends,
even in the top-rated
establishments.

Contents Ideas
15
 Arts Barcelona
A beachfront beauty with the designer
touch, five-star comforts and a terrific pool
this is widely considered to be
Barcelonas top hotel.
P.181  ACCOMMODATION

 Prestige
Minimalism rules in the hotel of choice for
the music and fashion world.
P.183  ACCOMMODATION

 Grand Marina
 Claris Contemporary Catalan artists have person-
Rooftop pool, beautiful rooms, and talked- alised this luxury waterfront hotel in Port
about restaurant and bar, right in the heart Vell.
of the modern city. P.179  ACCOMMODATION
P.181  ACCOMMODATION

Contents Ideas
16
On the move Most of
Barcelonas old-
town areas are only
accessible on foot,
but for outlying
sights you can let
public transport
take the strain. In
fact, just reaching
Montjuc and
Montserrat is more
than half the fun, as you
have to rely on cable cars
and funicular railways to
climb the steep gradients.
 Trasbordador Aeri
Reaching Tibidabo is even The cross-harbour cable car is an iconic
more of an adventure, with Barcelona ride, but wait for a clear day for
the best views.
train, tram and funicular all P.78  PORT VELL AND
required before getting to BARCELONETA

the top.

 Las Golondrinas
To appreciate Barcelona the maritime city,
jump on one of the daily sightseeing boats
that depart from near the Columbus monu-
ment.
P.190  ESSENTIALS

Contents Ideas
17
 Tramvia Blau
Its worth trying to coincide with the antique
tram service that forms part of the
approach to Tibidabo.
P.160  TIBIDABO AND PARC
DEL COLLSEROLA

 Telefric de Montjuc
This is the speediest way to the castle ram-
parts, and the little gondolas offer some of
the best views of the city.
P.113  MONTJUC

 Sightseeing tour buses


Barcelonas tour buses loop around the city
stopping at every major sight and attraction
the ticket lets you jump on and off when
you like.
P.190  ESSENTIALS

 Cremellera de Montserrat
The towering heights of Montserrat, an hour
from Barcelona, can be reached by rack
railway as well as by cable car a dramatic
ride in any weather.
P.164  MONTSERRAT

Contents Ideas
18
Traditionally, each
Festive Barcelona  Dia de Sant Jordi
neighbourhood cel- April 23 is St Georges Day, dedicated to
Catalunyas patron saint, though its not so
ebrates with its own
much dragon-slaying as book- and rose-
festival, though the buying that occupies the local population.

major ones like P.65  BARRI GTIC

Grcias Festa Major


(August) and the
Merc (September)
have become city
institutions. There is
always a parade
(often with
grotesque giant fig-
ures with papier-
mach heads) with
music and dancing, while  Festival del Grec
traditional Catalan celebra- The summers foremost arts and music fes-
tival centres its performances on Montjucs
tions are characterized by open-air Greek theatre.
the correfoc (fire-running), P.110  MONTJUC

where drummers, dragons


and devils cavort in the
streets, and by the
castellers, the red-shirted
human tower-builders.

Contents Ideas
19
 Festa de la Merc
The citys biggest annual festival is dedicat-
ed to merrymaking and mayhem on a lavish
scale.
P.191  ESSENTIALS

 Snar
The electronic music and multimedia art
world parties hard every June as Barcelona
turns techno.
P.191  ESSENTIALS

 Fira de Santa Llcia


The first three weeks in December is devot-
ed to the annual Christmas fair, held in front
of La Seu.
P.191  ESSENTIALS

 Festa Major de Grcia


Competing teams of human tower-builders
draw crowds at every traditional festival, pil-
ing person upon person in old-town squares
in the Barri Gtic and Grcia the latters
Festa Major in August is always a hoot
P.191  ESSENTIALS

Contents Ideas
20
Shops and markets Barcelona is great
for shopping, espe-
cially for designer
clothes, handcraft-
ed accessories or
stylish household
items. The sharpest
designers congre-
gate in the
Eixample and La
Ribera; the sec-
ondhand/
vintage and inde-
pendent music  Mercat de la Boqueria
The citys finest food market is a show in
scene focuses on its own right, busy with locals and tourists
El Raval, while its from dawn to dusk.
P.54  ALONG THE RAMBLAS
the Barri Gtic for antiques
and gifts. Opening hours
are Monday to Saturday
10am to 1.30/2pm, 4.30
to 7.30/8pm, though
department stores and
malls open until 10pm,
while smaller shops vary
their hours considerably.

 Vinon
This renowned uptown furniture and design
store is a mainstay of the Barcelona shop-
ping scene.
P.127  DRETA DE LEIXAMPLE

Contents Ideas
21
 Traditional ceramics
Catalan and Spanish ceramics make a good
gift or souvenir Art Escudellers always
has an excellent selection.
P.67  BARRI GTIC

 Designer fashion
Some of the hottest European designers call
Barcelona home check out the hip bou-
tiques and funky shoe shops in La Ribera.
P.96  LA RIBERA AND SANT
PERE

 Els Encants
Haggle hard and pick up a bargain at the
citys biggest flea market, held every
Monday, Wednesday, Friday and Saturday.
P.137  SAGRADA FAMLIA AND
GLRIES

 Book and coin market


Join the crowds on Sunday morning at the
Mercat de Sant Antoni, good fun whether
youre browsing or buying.
P.85  EL RAVAL

Contents Ideas
22
Parks and gardens Its not hard to find
 Parc Gell
a bit of traffic-free The citys most extraordinary park, fes-
tooned with ceramic decoration, is the
space in Barcelona,
product of architect Antoni Gauds surreal
from a quiet neigh- flight of fancy.

bourhood corner to P.147  GRCIA AND PARC


GELL
a formal park.
Some places, like
Parc Gell and
Parc de la
Ciutadella, will be
high on any visiting
list, but to escape
the crowds try hik-
ing in the Collserola
hills, just a fifteen-
minute train ride
 Parc del Collserola
away. Nearly all outdoor
On the hottest of days a welcome breeze
spaces have a kiosk-caf, and pine-shaded springs reward hikers in
the wooded hills above Barcelona.
and many have a chil-
P.162  TIBIDABO AND PARC
drens play area. DEL COLLSEROLA

Contents Ideas
23
 Parc Joan Mir
An urban park whose concrete piazza and
towering Mir sculpture are tempered by a
shaded garden with childrens playground.
P.142  ESQUERRA DE
LEIXAMPLE

 Parc de la Ciutadella
The park at the eastern edge of the old
town is packed full of surprises, from palm-
house caf to zoological museum.
P.102  PARC DE LA
CIUTADELLA
 Jardins de Mossn Costa
i Llobera
The huge cactus stands on the slopes of
Montjuc are a local secret, best enjoyed as
the days shadows lengthen.
P.113  MONTJUC

 Jard Botnic de Barcelona


Roam the various zones of Barcelonas
botanical garden, or join a guided tour for a
more in-depth exploration.
P.114  MONTJUC

Contents Ideas
24
Barcelonas presid-
The modernista trail
ing architectural
genius, Antoni
Gaud i Cornet,
changed the way
people looked at
urban architecture
and, with his mod-
ernista contempo-
raries notably
Josep Puig i
Cadafalch and Llus
Domnech i
Montaner also
changed the way
Barcelona looked.
Their style, a sort of
Catalan Art Nouveau,
erupted in the 1870s and
1880s, and following the
modernista trail around the
city shows you some of
Europes most extraordi-
nary buildings.

 La Pedrera
The stone quarry is the most eye-catching
apartment building in the city, a sinuous
structure with a fantasy roof terrace that
hosts summer cocktail evenings.
P.126  DRETA DE LEIXAMPLE

Contents Ideas
25
 Hotel Espaa
Some of the greatest modernista names
came together to decorate this solid old
nineteenth-century hotel, which has a par-
ticularly splendid dining room.
P.84  EL RAVAL

 Hospital de la Santa Creu


i de Sant Pau
Weekend tours show visitors the ornate
buildings and pavilions of the citys most
innovative public hospital.
P.136  SAGRADA FAMLIA AND
GLRIES

 Casa Amatller
Headquarters of the Centre del Modernisme,
and the best place to find out more about
Barcelonas peculiar architecture.
P.124  DRETA DE LEIXAMPLE

 Casa Batll
Gauds Casa Batll anchors the famous
Mansana de la Discrdia, or Block of
Discord, a trio of elaborate mansions built
for the citys nineteenth-century industrial-
ists.
P.125  DRETA DE LEIXAMPLE

Contents Ideas
26
A spin-off from the
Sports and recreation  Camp Nou
1992 Olympics The citys premier team, FC Barcelona,
plays in one of Europes most magnificent
was an increased
stadia if you cant get a ticket, the big
provision of sports games always on TV.

and leisure facilities P.152  CAMP NOU, PEDRALBES


AND SARRI-SANT GERVASI
throughout
Barcelona. The city
beaches and swim-
ming pools draw
big summer
crowds, while you
can rent anything
from roller blades
to mountain bikes
to explore the back
streets and prome-
nades. However,
ask a Catalan to
recommend a spectator
sport and there will be only
 Watersports
one answer football, as Its easy to rent all the equipment you need
for a surf or sail from the Port Olmpic.
practised by the local
P.117  PORT OLMPIC AND
heroes of FC Barcelona. POBLE NOU

Contents Ideas
27
 Estadi Olmpic
The Olympic Stadium, remodelled for the
1992 Games, is at the heart of an Olympic
area that includes world-class swimming
and sports facilities.
P.111  MONTJUC

 Rent a bike
With more than 100km of cycle paths, plus
beach promenades and forest trails, renting
a bike offers a different way to see the city.
P.192  ESSENTIALS

 City beaches
When the gallery-going, shopping and bar-
hopping flags, spend the day at the beach
Barcelona has five kilometres of sand-
fringed ocean.
P.119  PORT OLMPIC AND
POBLE NOU

 Passeig Martim
Early mornings and weekends are the best
times to work out on the harbourside prom-
enade between Barceloneta and the Port
Olmpic.
P.77  PORT VELL AND
BARCELONETA

Contents Ideas
28
Any walk around
Historic Barcelona
the old town
provides reminders
of Barcelonas long
history, with a
street layout and
surviving walls that
go back to Roman
times. But its the
fourteenth- and
fifteenth-century
Golden Age that
lent the city its
Catalan-Gothic  Esglsia de Sant Pau del
lustre, when newly Camp
The citys oldest church, dating from the
built churches, city hall,
tenth century, provides a peaceful retreat in
government palace and the modern Raval.

shipyards all testified to P.85  EL RAVAL

Barcelonas influence.
Later, the eighteenth-
century Bourbons
reshaped the city again,
building fortresses to
subdue the unruly
inhabitants.

 Plaa del Rei


The Renaissance tower and Gothic buildings
of Plaa del Rei form one of the most har-
monious ensembles in the old town.
P.62  BARRI GTIC

Contents Ideas
29
 Monestir de Pedralbes
Half an hour from the centre lies the
Pedralbes monastery, boasting not only the
citys most harmonious cloister but also a
world-class art collection.
P.156  CAMP NOU, PEDRALBES
AND SARRI-SANT GERVASI

 Esglsia de Santa Mara


del Mar
Santa Mara was built in the roaring 1320s,
with economic confidence at its height,
making it the crowning glory of the Catalan-
Gothic style of architecture.
P.92  LA RIBERA AND SANT
 Museu Martim PERE

The engaging Maritime Museum is housed


in the great medieval shipyards that under-
pinned Barcelonas early prosperity.
P.74  PORT VELL AND
BARCELONETA

 Castell de Montjuc
The hilltop Bourbon fortress offers an
eagles-eye view of the city.
P.113  MONTJUC

Contents Ideas
30
Cafs There are thou-
 Zurich
sands of cafs, Meet me at the Zurich is an age-old
Barcelona refrain.
ranging from centu-
P.57  ALONG THE RAMBLAS
ry-old coffee hous-
es to unique neigh-
bourhood haunts.
Specialist places include a
forn (bakery), patisseria
(pastry shop) and xocola-
teria (specializes in choco-
late), while a granja is
more of a milk bar than a
regular caf, offering tradi-
tional delights like orxata
(tiger-nut drink) and granis-
sat (flavoured crushed ice).
A caf breakfast is typically
a flauta (thin baguette
sandwich), ensaimada
(pastry spiral) or croissant.

 Caf de lOpera
House caf for the opera house opposite,
this is the most traditional of the citys
watering holes.
P.57  ALONG THE RAMBLAS

Contents Ideas
31
 Laie Llibreria Caf
Stop for breakfast, lunch or a read of the
papers at Barcelonas best bookshop caf.
P.130  DRETA DE LEIXAMPLE

 Meson del Caf


As quirky as its small, the House of
Coffee serves the cup that revives.
P.68  BARRI GTIC

 Forn de Sant Jaume


Thi place serves some delectable cakes and
pastries, to eat in or take away.
P.130  DRETA DE LEIXAMPLE

 Textil Caf
A relaxing museum caf thats known for its
good food.
P.97  LA RIBERA AND SANT
PERE

Contents Ideas
32
Specialist museums A selection of spe-
cialist collections
adds to the citys
extraordinary diver-
sity. There are dedi-
cated museums to
the history of
chocolate and the
world of textiles,
while other collec-
tions zero in local
matters like
Barcelonas football  Museu de la Xocolata
team or the Handcrafted chocolates, made on the prem-
ises, are the twist at this informative muse-
nuances of Catalan um.
history. Only the P.93  LA RIBERA AND SANT
PERE
unclassifiable
Museu Frederic Mars is
essential viewing, but visit
one or two others to
unpeel a layer of the city
you might otherwise have
missed.

 Museu del Futbol


No football fan will want to miss a visit to
the FC Barcelona museum, presenting a
wealth of trophies, photographs, videos and
memorabilia.
P.153  CAMP NOU, PEDRALBES
AND SARRI-SANT GERVASI

Contents Ideas
33
 Museu Frederic Mars
The mad collector to beat them all dont
miss Mars extraordinary range of folkloric
items, household utensils, toys and
ephemera, contained within a lovely old-
town palace with celebrated summer caf.
P.63  BARRI GTIC

 Museu Textil i
dIndumentaria
Textiles and clothing from Roman times to
the present day illuminate one of the citys
best-presented museums.
 Museu de Cermica P.94  LA RIBERA AND SANT
The citys most comprehensive collection of PERE
ceramics is housed in one wing of a former
royal palace.
P.153  CAMP NOU, PEDRALBES
AND SARRI-SANT GERVASI

 Museu dHistria de
Catalunya
An engaging presentation of all things
Catalan, from the history of the national flag
to Barcelona at war.
P.76  PORT VELL AND
BARCELONETA

Contents Ideas
34
On the waterfront Dramatic changes
 Mirador de Coln
over the last two Take the elevator up to the viewing platform
of the Christopher Columbus monument to
decades have once
survey the ever-developing waterfront.
again placed P.73  PORT VELL AND
BARCELONETA
harbour and
Mediterranean at
the heart of
Barcelona. The old
docksides have
been opened up as
promenades and
entertainment
areas, and the
citys once grimy
beaches landscaped and
prettified its as if a
theatre curtain has been
lifted to reveal that, all
along, Barcelona had an
 Port Vell
urban waterfront of which
The Old Port area at the foot of the
it could be proud. Ramblas has seen its former warehouses
and cargo wharves transformed into a
vibrant entertainment zone.
P.73  PORT VELL AND
BARCELONETA

Contents Ideas
35
 Barcelonetas restaurants
The Passeig de Joan Borb promenade, in
the old fishing quarter of Barceloneta, is the
perfect place for a paella or seafood meal.
P.78  PORT VELL AND
BARCELONETA

 Luz de Gas
The floating bar (open summer only) is the
best vantage-point for the comings and
goings on the Port Vell promenade.
P.80  PORT VELL AND
BARCELONETA

 Santa Eullia
Step back to the days of sail with a tour of
this historic schooner.
P.74  PORT VELL AND
BARCELONETA

 Port Olmpic
The twin towers and packed marina domi-
nate the Port Olmpic, whose restaurants
and bars make it the citys liveliest resort
area.
P.117  PORT OLMPIC AND
POBLE NOU

Contents Ideas
36
Out for lunch Restaurants gener-
ally offer a
lunchtime men del
dia (menu of the
day), starting at
about e7, rising to
e10/12 in fancier
places or at week-
ends. Its a real
bargain, as dinner
in the same restau-
rant might cost
three times as much.
Budget places often dont
have a written menu, with
the waiter simply reeling
off the days dishes. Lunch
hours are 14pm, though
locals dont eat until 2pm
or later.

 Caf de lAcadmia
Many visitors favourite old-town restaurant
has a lovely terrace and offers up a set-
price lunch that mixes contemporary and
traditional Catalan flavours.
P.69  BARRI GTIC

Contents Ideas
37
 Agua
This is the best place on the boardwalk for
a beachside lunch full of Mediterranean
flavours.
P.120  PORT OLMPIC AND
POBLE NOU

 LEconmic
Diners cram into this traditionally tiled
 Glop lunch-only restaurant for excellent bargain
A bustling Grcia tavern is the favoured meals, served Monday to Friday.
venue for a family lunch, especially at P.99  LA RIBERA AND SANT
weekends when every table is occupied. PERE
P.149  GRCIA AND PARC
GELL

 Silenus
A fashionable place in the arty upper Raval
for cutting-edge Barcelona cuisine.
P.89  EL RAVAL

Contents Ideas
38
Barcelona has the
Galleries and artists  Caixa Forum
worlds finest col- Theres always a show worth seeing in the
citys premier arts and cultural centre not
lections of work by to mention concerts, films, poetry readings
Catalan artists and other events.
P.107  MONTJUC
Joan Mir and
Antoni Tpies,
while contemporary
art of all kinds
anchors the dis-
plays at MACBA
and Caixa Forum.
The Articket (e15)
gives half-price
admission into all
(plus others) except
Caixa Forum, entry
to which is free.
The city also has dozens
of private galleries, con-
centrated in La Ribera, El
Raval and the Eixample
check Gua del Ocios
Arte section for listings.

Contents Ideas
39
 Col.lecci Thyssen-
Bornemisza
A select gathering of fourteenth- to eigh-
teenth-century European art occupies a
hushed wing of the Pedralbes monastery.
P.157  CAMP NOU, PEDRALBES
AND SARRI-SANT GERVASI

 Fundaco Antoni Tpies


Acquaint yourself with the work of the mas-
ter Catalan abstract artist, contained within
a striking Eixample mansion.
P.125  DRETA DE LEIXAMPLE

 Museu dArt Contemporani


de Barcelona (MACBA)
Post-war contemporary art (Spanish,
Catalan and international) has a home in El
Ravals signature building.
P.81  EL RAVAL

 Fundaco Joan Mir


Theres no more beautiful gallery in the city
than the house on the hill presenting the
lifes work of Joan Mir.
P.112  MONTJUC

Contents Ideas
40
Traditional Catalan
Traditional food and drink
food doesnt stray
far from its rural
and maritime roots
think bread
rubbed with toma-
to, oil and garlic,
chargrilled meats
and vegetables,
fish stews, salt
cod, sausage with
haricot beans, or
mixed rice dishes.
Even the most  Bread with tomato (pa
fashionable restau- amb tomquet)
Often topped with cured ham, sliced cheese
rants present a few or grilled vegetables try it for breakfast or
as an appetizer in a local restaurant like Els
homestyle
Tres Tombs.
favourites for local P.89  EL RAVAL
diners brought up
on earthy flavours
and large portions.
However, sophistication
comes in the shape of a
glass of cava, Catalan
champagne.

 From the grill


Food cooked on the chargrill (a la brasa) is
a staple at Taverna La Tomaquera not just
meats, but also seasonal artichokes and
huge spring onions.
P.115  MONTJUC

Contents Ideas
41
 A glass of fizz
Order the house cava at Xampanayet to
accompany sliced meats and cheeses or a
dish of the local anchovies.
P.100  LA RIBERA AND SANT
PERE

 Orxata
A traditional caf like El Tio Che is the
best place to sample the unique milky bev-
erage made from ground tiger nuts.
P.119  PORT OLMPIC AND
POBLE NOU

 Grilled sausage (botifarra)


Bar Salvador can usually oblige with a
bumper serving of pork sausage served on
a pool of stewed haricot beans (mongetes).
P.98  LA RIBERA AND SANT
PERE

 Noodles (fideu)
The local alternative to paella is noodles
served with seafood and a fiery garlic may-
onnaise restaurants in Barceloneta all
have their own version.
P.78  PORT VELL AND
BARCELONETA

Contents Ideas
42
Music, dance and theatre You can catch con-
 Palau de la Msica
certs, plays and Catalana
Concerts at this extravagant modernista-
performances at a
designed concert hall are a treat, while the
wide variety of ven- popular daily guided tours are an added
attraction.
ues, and interna-
P.91  LA RIBERA AND SANT
tionally renowned PERE

artists often appear


in the city particu-
larly during the sum-
mer-long Grec festi-
val or at the annual
festivals devoted to
ancient music (May),
contemporary
music (Oct/Nov)
and jazz (Nov/Dec).
City-sponsored pro-
ductions are adver-
tised at the Palau
de la Virreina on the  Gran Teatre del Liceu
The renowned Liceu is a city landmark, but
Ramblas (wwww.bcn.es/
book ahead if you want tickets, either for a
cultura), and you can buy night at the opera or the late-night recitals.

advance concert, theatre P.55  ALONG THE RAMBLAS

and show tickets from


ServiCaixa (wwww
.servicaixa.com) or
TelEntrada (wwww
.telentrada.com).

Contents Ideas
43

 Sidecar
This rootsy Plaa Reial rock club presents a
varied roster of low-priced gigs and club
nights.
P.72  BARRI GTIC

 Teatre Nacional de
Catalunya
The National Theatre a remarkable mod-
ern take on a Greek temple has a mission
to promote Catalan-language productions.
P.138  SAGRADA FAMLIA AND
GLRIES

 LAuditori
Barcelonas finest concert hall has a year-
round programme of classical and contem-
porary music.
P.138  SAGRADA FAMLIA AND
GLRIES

 Tarantos
A longstanding favourite for flamenco, jazz,
funk and jam sessions the after-show
dancing keeps on into the small hours.
P.72  BARRI GTIC

Contents Ideas
44
Out on the town When it comes to a
days lazing around
or a nights carous-
ing, Barcelona
offers style, tradi-
tion and kitsch in
equal measures.
From tapas-tasting
to view-gazing,
laidback caf-bar
to full-on techno
temple, bohemian
boozer to cocktail  Rosal
emporium youll Dont miss a bar crawl in the hip old-town
area of the Born Rosal is a favoured drop-
find it somewhere. For the in spot for planning the nights entertain-
ment, though some dont leave until closing
latest listings buy the
time.
weekly Guia del Ocio (out P.97  LA RIBERA AND SANT
every Thursday), which PERE

covers bars, venues and


opening hours in its Tarde
Noche section.

 Fira
Only in Barcelona fairground rides, pop-
corn and champagne in one of the citys
most unique uptown bars.
P.144  ESQUERRA DE
LEIXAMPLE

Contents Ideas
45
 Mirablau
The city does great views and great bars
Mirablau combines both to stunning effect.
P.163  TIBIDABO AND PARC
DEL COLLSEROLA

 Quimet i Quimet
Theres a touch of class and seriously
good tapas at this in-the-know bar on the
old town fringes.  Bar Ra
P.115  MONTJUC El Raval has a score or more of quirky
drinking haunts, none funkier or more
colourful than Bar Ra.
P.89  EL RAVAL

 Bosc de la Fades
Theres kitsch, and then theres the Forest
of the Fairies, the rustic grotto-bar at the
foot of the Ramblas.
P.58  ALONG THE RAMBLAS

Contents Ideas
46
City landmarks By any standards
 The Frank Gehry fish
Barcelona has its Showpiece landmark of the Port Olmpic is
the enormous glittering fish that straddles
fair share of iconic
the promenade.
locations and P.117  PORT OLMPIC AND
POBLE NOU
buildings, from the
Ramblas to the
Sagrada Famlia.
Buildings
associated with the
International
Exhibitions of 1888
and 1929, plus
construction for the
1992 Olympics and 2004
Universal Forum, have
 Torre de Collserola
helped to provide an Norman Fosters communications tower is
extraordinary city easily visible on the Barcelona skyline, and
is just a short walk from the Tibidabo
backdrop. Meanwhile, amusement park.
contemporary architects P.161  TIBIDABO AND PARC
DEL COLLSEROLA
have added towers,
installations, squares and
parks some
controversial, others
much-loved landmarks
that bolster the citys
reputation as an evolving
urban experiment.

Contents Ideas
47
 Arc de Triomf
Barcelonas triumphant arch, relic of the
1888 Universal Exhibition, provides the
gateway to the Parc de la Ciutadella area.
P.102  PARC DE LA
CIUTADELLA

 Plaa de Catalunya
The whole city comes and goes through this
pivotal square, where just-off-the-metro
tourists mingle with office-workers,
buskers, shoppers and caf patrons.
P.51  ALONG THE RAMBLAS

 Clocktower, Plaa Rius i


Taulet
Lunch or a drink under Grcias landmark
clocktower is always a pleasure.
P.147  GRCIA AND PARC
GELL

 Maremgnum
No visit to Port Vell is complete without a
stroll along the boardwalk to the harbourside
entertainment zone and shopping complex.
P.75  PORT VELL AND
BARCELONETA

Contents Ideas
Contents Ideas
Places

Contents Places
Contents Places
51

Along the Ramblas


No day in the city seems complete without a stroll along
the Ramblas, Spains most famous thoroughfare.

PLACES Along the Ramblas


Cutting through Barcelonas old town areas, and con-
necting Plaa de Catalunya with the harbour, its at the
heart of the citys life and self-image lined with cafs,
restaurants, souvenir shops, flower stalls and newspa-
per kiosks. The name, derived from the Arabic ramla (or
sand), refers to the bed of a seasonal stream, which
was paved over in medieval times. Decorative benches,
plane trees and stately buildings were added in the
nineteenth century as the Ramblas became the locals
perambulation of choice. Today, the show goes on, day
or night, as street vendors, human statues, portrait
painters, buskers and card sharps add to the colour and
character of Barcelonas most enthralling street. There
are metro stops at Catalunya (top of the Ramblas),
Liceu (middle) and Drassanes (bottom), or you can walk
the entire length in about twenty minutes.

Plaa de Catalunya  RAMBLAS FLOWER STALL

The huge square at the top of


the Ramblas stands right at the
heart of the city, with the old
town and port below it, and the
planned Eixample district above
and beyond. It was laid out in its
present form in the 1920s,
centred on a formal layout of
statues, fountains and trees, and
is the focal point of local events
and demonstrations notably
the mass gathering here on
New Years Eve.The most
prominent monument is the
towering angular slab and bust
dedicated to Francesc Maci,
first president of the Generalitat
(Catalan government), who died
in office in 1933. For visitors,
the square is known as the site
of the main city tourist office
(see p.188) down the steps in
the southeastern corner while
an initial orientation point is the
white-faced El Corte Ingls
department store on the eastern
side of the square. Across on the

Contents Places
52
N El Corte
Ingls CAFS, TAPAS AND

VIA
C AR R ER DE B ER GAR A PLAA DE RESTAURANTS

CARRER DE MOLES
C ATA L U N YA A Amaya 7

LAIE
ELL i
TAN

C D E
CA El
ON
Antiga Casa Figueras 5

TAN
RR Triangle E F Bar Central La Boqueria 4
RD

S TR U
ER
RRE Bar Pinotxo 2

A
DE
PE CA

C
CA Caf de lOpera 6

AV
Monument to
Along the Ramblas PLACES

RR LA
I
ER Francesc Maci

DEL
DE 1 Cava Universal 9
C DE LES R

M GarduaC DE COMTA L
LS M 3

POR
TA
LLE CATALUNYA
NN A Zurich 1

TA L
RS AA
NT
SA

DE
LAS RAMBLAS
DE BARS
AM

ER

LA N
RR
E LL

CA Bosc de la Fades 8

GEL
ERE

N SU CC ES
S

C. BO CA

JOA Q UIM PO U
ELS RR
SA BE TS ER

R I P OLL
LS C D E LI DE

C DE
CD

LA C
P DE

AN UDA
EN

PLAA DE
S

C A R R E R D EL D U C

C DE
XU

D E LA V I C T O RI A
LA VILA DE
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CL

MADRID
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ABE

R AVA L NY Esglsia TA N
S
RTU Palau R IS PLA
TS

O AG
RF de Betlem EL SS
TO Moja CD DA
DE L PI N M
CA RR ER AL
Palau de EDR
C DE P OR TAFE R R IS S A C AT
Hospital la Virreina C D EL S B O T
ERS E LA
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de la L CARM
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CD
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C D E

Mercat PA L
LA
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SC
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C DE LE RA M BL A

CD
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OM
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BE
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Santa Maria

B IS
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del Pi PL S. JOSEP SEV

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Antiga Casa ORIOL C DE S A N T

CD
Figueras 5
NYS NOUS

PLAA DE LA Palau de la
C. D E BOQUERIA Generalitat
PLAA L HO SP ITA L LICEU Casa Bruno PLAA DE
C DE LA

DE SANT M
Quadros
C DE BA

SANT JAUME
AGUSTI
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Miro Mosaic BOQU


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6
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Gran Teatre CAR


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CO ME R

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AP LL
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Drassanes MO
L. L (Museu Martim)
EL Mirador de 0 100 m
Coln

Contents Places
53
southwest side (over the road Palau Moja
from the top of the Ramblas) is Ramblas 188 t 933 162 740.
El Triangle shopping centre, Bookshop MonFri 9am8pm, Sat
incorporating not only a variety 9am2pm & 48pm; Sala Palau Moja
of stores and exhibition space TuesSat 11am8pm, Sun 11am3pm.

PLACES Along the Ramblas


but also the popular Zurich caf Gallery admission usually free. The
(p.57) in its ground floor. arcaded Palau Moja dates from
the late eighteenth centu-
ry and still retains an
exterior staircase and ele-
gant great hall.The
ground floor of the
building, restored by the
Generalitat, is now a
bookshop relating to all
things Catalan, while the
palaces gallery, the Sala
Palau Moja, is open for
contemporary art exhibi-
tions the gallery
entrance is around the
corner in c/Portaferrissa.
Take a look, too, at the
illustrated tiles above the
fountain at the start of
c/Portaferrissa, which
show the medieval gate
(the Porta Ferria) and
market that once stood
here.

Palau de la Virreina
Ramblas 99 t 933 017 775,
 RAMBLAS FOUNTAIN w www.bcn.es/cultura.
Galleries TuesFri 11am2pm &
Esglsia de Betlem 48.30pm, Sat 11am8.30pm, Sun
Ramblas 107 t 933 183 823. Daily 11am3pm; information office
8am6pm. It seems hard to MonSat 10am8pm, Sun 11am3pm.
believe, but the Ramblas was a The graceful eighteenth-century
war zone during the Spanish Palau de la Virreina is set back
Civil War as the city erupted slightly from the Ramblas.
into factionalism.With anar- Commissioned by a Peruvian
chists sacking the citys churches viceroy, Manuel Amat, and
at will in 1936, the rich interior named after the wife who sur-
of the Baroque Esglsia de vived him, its five Ramblas-
Betlem (1681) was completely facing bays are adorned with
destroyed by fire and only the pilasters and Rococo windows.
main facade on c/del Carme Today the buildings galleries are
survived the destruction: it still used to house changing exhibi-
sports a fine sculpted portal and tions of contemporary art and
a relief depicting the Nativity. photography (admission some-
times charged).The ground
floor of the palace also contains

Contents Places
54
the Institut de Culturas walk-in a former convent between 1836
information centre and ticket and 1840, the cavernous hall
office for cultural events run by stretches back behind the high
the Ajuntament (city council). wrought-iron entrance arch fac-
Theres a shop too (TuesSat ing the Ramblas. Its a riot of
Along the Ramblas PLACES

10am8.30pm), featuring locally noise and colour, as popular


produced objets dart and other with locals who come here to
items relating to the city. shop daily as with snap-happy
 PALAU DE LA VIRREINA
tourists. Everything radiates out
from the central banks of fish
and seafood stalls great piles of
fruit and vegetables, bunches of
herbs and pots of spices, baskets
of wild mushrooms, mounds of
cheese and sausage, racks of
bread, hanging hams, and meat
counters dripping blood into
the gutters below. If youre
going to buy, do some browsing
first, as the flagship fruit and veg
stalls by the entrance tend to
have higher prices than those
further inside.There are also
some excellent stand-up snack
bars in here the Pinotxo the
most famous and a good mar-
ket restaurant (Gardua) at the
back of the building; see p.58
for both.

Mercat de la Boqueria Plaa de la Boqueria


Ramblas 91 t 933 182 584, The halfway point of the
w www.ac-boqueria.com. MonSat Ramblas is marked by Plaa de
6am8pm. The citys glorious la Boqueria, which sports a large
main food market is officially round mosaic by Joan Mir in
called the Mercat Sant Josep, the middle of the pavement.
though its referred to locally as This is one of a number of pub-
La Boqueria. Built on the site of lic works in the city by the

Ramblas statues
You cant move for human statues on the Ramblas. As fads and fashions change,
Greek statues and Charlie Chaplins have given way to the latest movie characters,
standing immobile on their little home-made plinths, daring you to catch them out
in a blink. Some join in the fun Mr Burns and Lisa Simpson posing jauntily
for photographs, Matador swirling a cape for the camera, Orange Twirly Girl
windmilling her streamers as money is dropped in front of her. Many are actors (or
at least waiters who say theyre actors), and others make a claim to art how else
to begin to explain Silver Cowboy, lounging on the railings at Liceu metro, or
Tree Sprite, clinging chameleon-like to one of the Ramblas plane trees. Then
theres the plain weird, like Lady Under Rock, her bottom half crushed under a
boulder, issuing plaintive shrieks at passers-by.

Contents Places
55

PLACES Along the Ramblas


 MIR MOSAIC

artist, who was born just a cou- in 1893 when an anarchist threw
ple of minutes walk off the two bombs into the stalls during
Ramblas in the Barri Gtic. a production of William Tell
Close by, at Ramblas 82, the twenty people died.The Liceu
Casa Bruno Quadros the then burned down for the third
lower floor is now the Caixa time in 1994, when a workers
Sabadell was built in the 1890s blowtorch set fire to the scenery
to house an umbrella store. Its during last-minute alterations to
unusual facade is decorated with an opera set. Fully restored once
a green dragon and Oriental more, the lavishly decorated inte-
designs, and scattered with para- rior is accessible on tours, which
sols. On the other side of the depart from the opera houses
Ramblas at no. 83, there are modern extension, the Espai
more modernista flourishes on Liceu youll see and learn most
the Antiga Casa Figueras on the guided 10am tour (the
(1902), which overdoses on other, cheaper tours are self-guid-
stained glass and mosaics, and ed). If you want to attend an
sports a corner relief of a female opera or recital (including the
reaper. Its now a renowned popular late-night concerts or ses-
bakery-caf (see p.57). sions golfes), you should check the
website for details and make
Gran Teatre del Liceu bookings well in advance.
Ramblas 5159 w www.liceubarcelona
.com. Box office t 934 859 913; tours Centre dArt Santa Mnica
t 934 859 914, depart daily 10am, Ramblas 7 t 933 162 810, w http
11.30am, noon & 1pm. e3.50/5.50. ://cultura.gencat.net/casm. TuesSat
Barcelonas celebrated opera 11am8pm, Sun 11am3pm. Free. The
house was first founded in 1847 Augustinian convent of Santa
and rebuilt after a fire in 1861 to Mnica dates originally from
become Spains grandest theatre. 1626, making it the oldest build-
Regarded as a bastion of the ing on the Ramblas. It was
citys late nineteenth-century entirely remodelled in the 1980s,
commercial and intellectual class- and now hosts regularly changing
es, the Liceu was devastated again exhibitions of contemporary art

Contents Places
56
on the ground floor.Theres also
a city information office at the Shops
centre, and a caf-bar upstairs.
Pavement artists and palm readers El Corte Ingls
occasionally set up stall outside Pl. de Catalunya 14 t 933 063 800,
Along the Ramblas PLACES

here on the Ramblas, augmented w www.elcorteingles.es. The citys


on weekend afternoons by a biggest department store has
small street market selling jew- nine retail floors, a basement
ellery and ornaments. supermarket and best of all
a top-floor caf with terrific
Museu de Cera views.
Ramblas 46, entrance on Ptge. de
Banca t 933 172 649, w www Espai Liceu
.museocerabcn.com. JulySept daily Ramblas 5159 t 934 859 913. The
10am10pm; OctJune MonFri shop and caf in the opera
10am1.30pm & 47.30pm, Sat & Sun house extension has the widest
11am2pm & 4.308.30pm. e6.65. range of opera CDs and DVDs
The citys wax museum is locat- in the city, as well as selling
ed in an impressive nineteenth- Liceu branded T-shirts, coffee
century bank building. It presents mugs, ceramics and other sou-
the usual trawl through the venirs.
internationally famous and infa-
mous, plus dated film characters, El Triangle
a mixed bag of public figures Pl. de Catalunya 4 t 933 180 108.
from Mother Teresa to Yasser Shopping centre dominated by
Arafat, and underwater and space the flagship FNAC store,
capsule simulations. However, if which specializes in books
this doesnt appeal, it is worth at (good travel and English selec-
least poking your head into the tions), music CDs and comput-
museums extraordinary bar, the er software. Also a Camper
Bosc de les Fades (p.58), while for (Spains most stylish, value-for-
aficionados of kitsch there are money shoe-shop chain),
night visits every Saturday at Sephora for cosmetics, Habitat,
8.30pm and 9.30pm (e12, drink and various clothes shops, plus
included; in Spanish only) with magazines and caf on the
actors and special effects ratchet- ground floor.
ing up the atmosphere.
 RAMBLAS KIOSK

Contents Places
57
Cava Universal
Pl. Portal de la Pau 4 t 933 026 184.
Daily 9am10pm. A useful drinks
and snacks spot on the lower
Ramblas, with a sunny terrassa

PLACES Along the Ramblas


looking directly onto the
Columbus monument.

Zurich
Pl. Catalunya 1 t 933 179 153.
MonFri 8am11pm, Sat & Sun
10am11pm, JuneSept open until
1am. The most famous meet-
and-greet caf in town, right at
the top of the Ramblas under-
neath El Triangle shopping cen-
tre. Its good for croissants and
breakfast bocadillos (sandwiches)
and theres a huge terrace, but
sit inside if you dont want to be
bothered by endless rounds of
buskers and beggars.

 ANTIGA CASA FIGUERAS


Restaurants and
tapas bars
Cafs Amaya
Ramblas 2024 t 933 026 138 (bar),
Antiga Casa Figueras t 933 021 037 (restaurant),
Ramblas 83 t 933 016 027. MonSat w www.restauranteamaya.com. Bar
9am3pm & 58.30pm. Pastries from daily 10am12.30am; restaurant daily
the Escrib family business in a 1.304pm & 8.30pmmidnight. A
modernista-designed pastry shop, Ramblas fixture since 1941
with a few tables inside and out. restaurant on one side, tapas bar
Many people rate this as the best on the other, both serving very
bakery in Barcelona. good Basque seafood specialities,
including octopus, baby squid,
Caf de lOpera clams, mussels, anchovies and
Ramblas 74 t 933 177 585. Daily prawns.The smoke-filled bar
9am3am. This venerable caf- offers the cheapest (and most
bar retains its late enjoyable) introduction to the
nineteenth-century decor as cuisine; otherwise, main dishes in
well as a bank of sought-after the restaurant cost e1420.
pavement tables. Its not a
complete tourist-fest long a Bar Central la Boqueria
favourite for pre- and post- Mercat de la Boqueria, Ramblas 91; no
performance refreshments, locals phone. MonSat 6.30am4pm. The
pop in for fine coffee, a good gleaming chrome stand-up bar
range of cakes, snacks and tapas, in the central aisle is the venue
or a late-night sangria de cava. for ultra-fresh market produce,

Contents Places
Along the Ramblas PLACES 58

 AMAYA RESTAURANT

served by blue-smocked staff Gardua


who work at a fair lick. Mercat de la Boqueria, c/Jerusalem 18
Breakfast, snack or lunch, its all t 933 024 323. MonSat 14pm &
the same to them salmon cut- 8pmmidnight. Tucked away at the
lets, sardines, calamari, razor back of the frenetic Boqueria
clams, hake fillets, sausages, pork market, this is a great place for
steaks, asparagus spears and the lunch (when theres a e9.50
rest, plunked on the griddle and men del dia; otherwise e13.50 at
sprinkled with salt. Breakfast night) basically, youre going to
costs just a few euros, more like be offered the best of the days
e510 for a main dish and a produce at pretty reasonable
drink. prices, and if youre lucky youll
get a seat with market views.
Bar Pinotxo
Mercat de la Boqueria, Ramblas 91
t 933 171 731. MonSat 6am5pm. Bars
The markets most renowned
refuelling stop just inside the Bosc de les Fades
main entrance on the right Ptge. de Banca 5 t 933 172 649.
attracts traders, chefs, tourists MonThurs & Sun 10.30am1am, Fri &
and celebs, who stand three Sat 10.30am3am. Tucked away in
deep at busy times. A tallat an alley off the Ramblas, by the
(small white coffee) and a wax museum, the Forest of the
grilled sandwich is the local Fairies is festooned with
breakfast of choice; otherwise gnarled plaster tree trunks,
let the cheery staff steer you hanging branches, fountains and
towards the tapas and daily spe- stalactites. Its a bit cheesy, which
cials. is perhaps why its a huge hit
with the twenty-something
crowd who huddle in the
grottoes and decorative side
rooms.

Contents Places
59

Barri Gtic
The highly picturesque Barri Gtic, or Gothic Quarter, on
the east side of the Ramblas, forms the very heart of

PLACES Barri Gtic


Barcelonas old town. Its buildings date principally from
the fourteenth and fifteenth centuries, when Barcelona
reached the height of her medieval prosperity, and culmi-
nate in the extraordinary Gothic cathedral known as La
Seu. Fanning out from here are arcaded squares and
skinny alleys containing several fascinating museums
and the surviving portions of the citys Roman walls. It
will take the best part of a day to see everything more if
you indulge yourself in the abundant cafs, antique
shops, boutiques and galleries. The main areas to explore
lie north of c/de Ferran and c/de Jaume I, around the
cathedral; and south from Plaa Reial and c/dAvinyo to
the harbour the latter district is rather less gentrified
than the cathedral area and you should take care at night
in the poorly lit streets. Metros Liceu and Jaume I mark
the eastwest boundaries of the Barri Gtic.

 LA SEU La Seu
Pl. de la Seu t 933 151 554,
w www.catedralbcn.org. MonFri
8am1.15pm & 57.30pm, Sat & Sun
8am1.15pm & 57.45pm. Free.
Barcelonas cathedral is one of
the great Gothic buildings of
Spain. Located on a site
previously occupied by a
Roman temple, it was begun in
1298 and finished in 1448
save the neo-Gothic principal
facade, completed in the 1880s.
La Seu is dedicated to Santa
Eullia, who was martyred by
the Romans for daring to prefer
Christianity, and her ornate
tomb rests in a crypt beneath
the high altar. However, the
most renowned part of the
cathedral is its magnificent
fourteenth-century cloister
(daily 9am1pm & 57pm;
free), which looks over a lush
tropical garden complete with
soaring palm trees and honking
white geese. Dont leave
without ascending to the roof

Contents Places
60

CAFS, TAPAS AND


RESTAURANTS El Mercadillo
Bar Celta Pulpera 31 CA RR ER
PO RT A FE
Bar del Pi 3 R R IS S
A
Bodega la Plata 30
Caf de lAcadmia 13
Cerera 12 Mercat de Sala
Barri Gtic PLACES

la Boqueria Pares
Ginger 14
Irati 4

C D'EN ROCA

C PETRITXOL
Juicy Jones 5

LAS
PI
Limbo 29 Llibreria Quera L
DE

AMB
SALEM

Matsuri 21 ER
Mesn del Cafe 8 RR

CA
2
C JERU

Oolong 27 LAS R A
Saln 26 PLAA PA L L
DEL E LA
ER D
Shunka 1 PI 3 CARR
4 LArca del
Venus
PLAA
Delicatessen 23 SANAS PLAA
Veronica 20 CA SANT
Avia
ST AUGUSTI AL
Vinissim 6 D EN Santa JOSEP BDA
LICEU 5 AR ORIOL EUL SANT
Xaloc 2 M ER
C Maria ALI A
A
R
C AR del Pi

RIA
PL DE LA

US
BOQUERIA

BOQUE
C LL EB RE

YS NO
PLTA
i CA DEL PI

E LA
RRE

RAMON DEL CALL.


Cafe de 7
RD

CARRER BAN
AS

C ARC SANT
CS D
LOpera EL
S

AB
R OLE

C CE
AMBL

OQ
UER
EN A

ANA

Gran Teatre IA
CARRER QUINT

CARRER RAURIC
CA RR E R D
LAS R

del Liceu CARRER DEL C


A LL
C S EULALIA

C VOLTA
REMEL
DEL

BARS AND CLUBS


Ascensor 16 CARRER DE FERRAN Manual
Caf Royale 19 Alpargatera
PTGE MADOZ

Herborista
VIDRE
C DEL

Fonfone 22 del Rey


Glaciar 9 URES C TRINITAT
PTGE DEL

C LES HE
CREDIT

Harlem Jazz Club 24 9


Jamboree 15 10 11
Karma 17 C 12
Leticia TRES LLITS BDA SANT MIQUEL
28 CARRER LLEONA
CARRE

Macarena 25
Pipa Club C COLOM PLAA
DELLERS

10
R D'A

Sidecar 11 REIAL
So-da 15
18
VINY

Tarantos 17
BLANCS

15
CARRER ESCU

18
Travel Bar 7

C NOU DE ZUR

PTGE BACARDI PLAA


VERNICA
C AGL A

19 AI 20
AR
EN
Art D' PLAA
R
Escudellers
E

GEORGE
RR
BAN O

CA

ORWELL
S
SC UDELLER
ER DELS E 22
CARRER OBRAD

CARR
PLAA Futura
S
PTG E ESC UDE LLER

DEL
TEATRE
CAR RER NOU DE SA NT FR A NC ESC

25
ORS
S

CAR
BLA

RER

CARRER DENRULL
RAM

CA RR ER

D 'E N
CAR RER DE CD

CAR
LAS

D' EN SE

ABA
PT G E LA PAU

SSA
RR A
OLS

28

C DE SILS
BOLTRE
C DENS

0 100 m AMP
LE PLAA
BRAILLE

RER
C L

MERCE
CAR

VE
DRASSANES CLA PLAA DUC
LM
Contents Places
61

LL
IP O
A
LL

CR
RU

C DELS AR CS
U CU 1
CC C S A G R I S TA N S

Collegi
C DE
LS BOT dArquitectes

PLACES Barri Gtic


ERS
PLAA
NOVA AVINGUDA CATEDRAL Museu PLAA
Sant ANTONI
Felip Dioces MAURA
Neri Casa de
LArdiaca
Palau
Episcopal PLAA DE
C A R R E R D E L I R U R I TA

LA SEU Museu C D'A


PLAA C M
S FELIP ON C SANTA LLUCIA Frederic

V I A L A I E TA N A
TJ U
NERI C
B CARRER DELS COMTES Mars

CARRER DE
ISP
C S. F. NERI

E
Museu del La Seu PL
Calat SANT Sal del
IU Tinell
C SANT SEVER C MA

LS MER
PLAA PLAA C PARE
HONORAT

MANUEL CARRER PL RAMON GALLIFA


RIBE 6 DEL BERENGUER
CARRER DEL BISBE

C
PIET

REI EL GRAN

AD
Palau
C S DOMINGO DEL CALL

AT

ERS
Palau Santa
SANT

Lloctinent
de la Agata
ADIS

CM
ARLE Generalitat
C VERGUER

T Museu
C FRENERIA

R
C PARA DIS

C PA
CARRER

d'Histria
de La Ciutat
ORIA
CARRER B
CARRER LLIBRETERIA Cerera
8 Subir
PLAA DE PLAA DE JAUME I
SANT JAUME CARRER JA UME I Formatgeria
L'ANGEL M
M
M
C L'ENSENYANA

La Seu
C DARLET

i
C DAGUERIA

C D'H
ERCU
C CIUTAT

Ajuntament LES Palau C ARRER VIG ATA N S


de Barcelona PL. Palams
SANT JUST
CA

13
RR

14
ER

Esglsia
PLAA
AR

SANT dels Sants R


CAR
GE
ST

MIQUEL Just i Pastor


NT
JU

Gotham

SANT

ER
L LED

16
IA

TE S ELLA F I LA
CB
C PALMA

RVAN
R DE

C CE C SA
NRE
VIA LAIETANA

TEMPLARIS MA
C ARR E

RER
C A RR ER

CAR
C A R RER DELS SOTS - TIN ENT NAVARRO

PLAA
PA LA

C LA

REGOMIR
C DATAULF

21
BDA VILADECOLS
U

NAU

CA
L POM RRER
ADIE D 'O R
23 S OB R
ES S A 24
CC OM T PLAA
ORS
C REGOMIR

TRAGINERS
C ABAIXAD
C JU
PI
C HOSTAL D'EN S OL

L
VEL 26
EU
ORR
CAR

ER C
C CO

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CARR C JOA NA
A
MASS
RER

NSE
LLER
D'A

AS
27 AIXER
GEL B
S
VIN

C DE MILA ER AN
NS CARR S
ULLER
Y

ELS AG
CARRER D
POR
CAR

S
IGNA
CAR DORES

D EN G Post
TA

CA R RE R
RER

RER

Office
FUS

LE
AMP
RER
TER

CAR
CA R R

AR
Esglsia AT DE M
CONSOL
IA

de la CARRER
ER M

Llot
CARRER

Merc
CARRER

ARQU

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PLAA
ET
DE LA

29
30 D'ANTONI
SIM OL

LOPEZ
PLATA

ERC 31
C DE LA
M
EL II
D'ISAB
PASSEIG
LER

Contents Places
62
(daily 10.30am6pm; e2) the
elevator (ascensor als terrats) is just
to the left of the crypt steps
which provides intimate views
of the cathedral towers and
Barri Gtic PLACES

surrounding Gothic buildings.


Performances of the Catalan
national dance, the sardana, take
place in front of the cathedral
(FebJuly & SeptNov Sat
6.30pm & Sun noon), while the
wide, pedestrianized Avinguda
de la Catedral also hosts an
antiques market every Thursday,
and a Christmas craft fair every
December.

Plaa del Rei


The most concentrated batch of
historic monuments in the Barri
Gtic is the grouping around  ARTISTS MARKET, PLAA SANT JOSEP ORIEL

the neat Plaa del Rei.The


square was once the courtyard during a visit to the Museu
of the palace of the counts of dHistria de la Ciutat (see
Barcelona, and across it stairs below).
climb to the fourteenth-century
Sal del Tinell, the palaces Museu dHistria de la Ciutat
main hall. It was on the steps Pl. del Rei, entrance on c/del Veguer
leading from the Sal del Tinell t 933 151 111, w www.museuhistoria
into the Plaa del Rei that .bcn.es. JuneSept TuesSat
Ferdinand and Isabella stood to 10am8pm, Sun 10am3pm; OctMay
receive Columbus on his TuesSat 10am2pm & 48pm, Sun
triumphant return from his 10am3pm. e4, first Sat afternoon of
famous voyage of 1492. At one the month free.The crucial draw of
time the Spanish Inquisition the City History Museum is its
met here, taking full advantage underground archeological
of the popular belief that the section nothing less than the
walls would move if a lie was extensive remains of the Roman
spoken. Nowadays it hosts city of Barcino. Descending in
temporary exhibitions, while the elevator (the floor indicator
concerts are occasionally held in shows 12 BC), you are
the hall or outside in the square. deposited onto walkways that
The palace buildings also run along the 4000 square
include the fourteenth-century metres excavated thus far,
Capella de Santa Agata, with stretching under Plaa del Rei
its tall single nave and fine and the surrounding streets as
Gothic retable, and the far as the cathedral.The remains
Renaissance Torre del Rei date from the first century BC
Mart, which rises above one to the sixth century AD and,
corner of the square.Theres while not much survives above
currently no public access to the chest height, explanatory
tower, but the interiors of the diagrams show the extent of the
hall and chapel can be seen streets, walls and buildings

Contents Places
63
from lookout towers to old town, and the summer caf
laundries while models, here (Caf dEstiu; open
mosaics, murals and excavated AprilOct, closed Mon) makes a
goods help flesh out the reality perfect place to take a break
of daily life in Barcino. from sightseeing.

PLACES Barri Gtic


The museum also offers
visitors the chance to see the Esglsia de Santa Mara
interiors of the Plaa del Reis del Pi
finest buildings, and learn Pl. Sant Josep Oriol t 933 184 743,
something of the citys long w www.parroquiadelpi.com. MonSat
history. For a bit more depth, 8.30am1pm & 4.309pm, Sun
ask about the museum walking 9am2pm & 59pm. Five minutes
tours of the Plaa del Rei walk from the cathedral, the
ensemble (2hr; e57, in English fourteenth-century church of
by arrangement). Santa Mara is mainly Catalan-
Gothic in style though with a
Museu Frederic Mars Romanesque door.The rather
Pl. de Sant Iu 56 t 933 105 800, plain interior only serves to set
w www.museumares.bcn.es. TuesSat off some marvellous stained
10am7pm, Sun 10am3pm. e3, Wed glass, the most impressive of
afternoon & first Sun of month free. which is contained within a ten-
Frederic Mars (18931991) metre-wide rose window.The
was a sculptor, painter and church flanks Plaa Sant Josep
restorer who more or less Oriol, the prettiest of three
single-handedly restored adjacent squares, an ideal place
Catalunyas decaying medieval to take an outdoor coffee, listen
treasures in the early twentieth to the buskers and browse the
century.The ground and weekend artists market (Sat
basement floors of the museum 11am8pm, Sun 11am2pm).
consist of his personal collection The church is named like
of medieval sculpture an the squares on either side, Plaa
important body of work that del Pi and Placeta del Pi after
includes a comprehensive the pine tree that once stood
collection of wooden crucifixes here. A farmers market spills
showing the stylistic across Plaa del Pi on the first
development of this form from and third Friday and Saturday of
the twelfth to the fifteenth the month, selling honey,
centuries. However, its the cheese, cakes and other produce,
upper two floors, housing while Carrer de Petritxol (off
Mars personal collectibles, Plaa del Pi) is the place to
which tend to make jaws drop. come for a hot chocolate in one
Entire rooms are devoted to of the traditional cafs that still
keys and locks, pipes, cigarette thrive here.
cards and snuffboxes, fans, gloves
and brooches, playing cards, Sala Pars
draughtsmens tools, walking C/de Petritxol 58 t 933 187 020,
sticks, dolls houses, toy theatres, w www.salapares.com. MonSat
old gramophones and archaic 10.30am2pm & 58.30pm; closed
bicycles, to list just a sample of Aug. Possibly the most famous
whats on show.The large commercial art gallery in the
arcaded museum courtyard, city, established in the mid-
studded with orange trees, is nineteenth century, Sala Pars is
one of the most romantic in the well-known as the site of

Contents Places
64
of the main c/de
Ferran was once
the site of
Barcelonas
Roman forum
Barri Gtic PLACES

and marketplace.
Its now the
traditional site of
demonstrations
and gatherings, as
well as being one
venue for the
weekly dancing
 SALA PARS of the Catalan
folk dance, the sardana (Sunday
Picassos first solo exhibition. It at 6.30pm). Participants all hold
still deals exclusively in hands in a circle, each puts
nineteenth- and twentieth- something in the middle as a
century Catalan art and youre sign of community and sharing,
free to browse the regularly and, since it is not over-
changing exhibitions. energetic (hence the jibes of
other Spaniards) old and young
Museu del Calat can join in equally.The
Pl. Sant Felip Neri 5 t 933 014 533. accompanying instrumental
TuesSun 11am2pm. e2.50. The group is called a cobla, and it
former headquarters of the citys includes the flabiol (a type of
shoemakers guild (founded in long flute), the tambori (drum),
1202) houses a one-room and tenor and soprano oboes.
footwear museum, containing
originals dating back to the Ajuntament de Barcelona
1600s as well as oddities like the Pl. de Sant Jaume t 934 027 000.
worlds biggest shoe, made for Public admitted Sun 10am2pm. Free.
the citys Columbus statue.The On the south side of Plaa de
museum flanks one side of Plaa Sant Jaume stands Barcelonas city
Sant Felip Neri, whose hall, parts of which date from as
eponymous church still bears early as 1373. On Sundays youre
the marks of bomb damage allowed into the building to see
sustained during the Civil War. the most interesting part, the
Incidentally, Barcelonas medieval restored fourteenth-century
Jewish quarter lay just to the council chamber, the Sal de
south of Plaa Sant Felip Neri, Cent, on the first floor.To view
centred on todays c/Sant the former main entrance, head a
Domnec del Call (Call is the little way down c/de la Ciutat to
Catalan word for a narrow find a typically exuberant
passage). A plaque at c/Sant Catalan-Gothic facade that was
Domnec del Call 7 marks the badly damaged during
site of the synagogue, while the renovations in the nineteenth
Jewish baths are believed to have century.
been located somewhere on
c/de Banys Nous. Palau de la Generalitat
Pl. de Sant Jaume t 934 024 600.
Plaa de Sant Jaume Tours on 2nd and 4th Sun of the month
The spacious square at the end (not Aug), every 20min, 10am2pm;

Contents Places
65
also on April 23, and Sept 11 & 24. their sweethearts a rose and
Free. The traditional home of receive a book in return
the Catalan government (although, in recent years,
presents its best or at least its modernization has demanded
oldest aspect around the side books for women and roses for

PLACES Barri Gtic


on c/del Bisbe, where the early men as well).The Generalitats
fifteenth-century facade precincts are packed with book
contains a medallion portraying stalls and rose sellers on this day,
St George and the dragon. with huge queues forming to
(Incidentally, the enclosed get in the building.
Gothic bridge across the narrow
street the so-called Bridge of Esglsia dels Sants Just i
Sighs is an anachronism, added Pastor
in 1928.) Through the palaces Pl. de Sant Just 6 t 933 017 433.
Renaissance main entrance, Open for Mass at 7.30pm (Sun at
facing Plaa de Sant Jaume, noon) and occasional other times.
theres a beautiful cloister on the Plaa de Sant Just is a medieval
first floor with superb coffered gem, sporting a restored
ceilings, while opening off this fourteenth-century fountain and
gallery are two fine rooms the flanked by unassuming palaces.
chapel and salon of Sant Jordi Highlight here is the Esglsia
(St George, patron saint of dels Sants Just i Pastor, whose
Catalunya as well as England). very plain stone facade belies
You can visit the interior on a the rich stained glass and
guided tour on alternate elaborate chapel decoration
Sundays while the Generalitat is inside (enter from the back, at
also traditionally open on public c/de la Ciutat; the main doors
holidays, particularly April 23 on Pl. de Sant Just are open less
the Dia de Sant Jordi (St often).The name
Georges Day). Celebrated as a commemorates the citys earliest
nationalist holiday in Catalunya, Christian martyrs, and its
this is also a kind of local claimed (though theres no real
Valentines Day, when men give evidence) that this is the oldest
 IRON LAMPS, PLAA REIAL

Contents Places
Barri Gtic PLACES 66

 PLAA GEORGE ORWELL

parish church site in Barcelona, their own. If you pass through


held to have first supported a on a Sunday morning, look in
foundation at the beginning of on the coin and stamp
the ninth century. market (10am2pm).

Plaa Reial Carrer dAvinyo


The elegant nineteenth-century Carrer dAvinyo, running south
Plaa Reial is hidden behind an from c/de Ferran towards the
archway off the Ramblas. Laid harbour, cuts through the most
out in around 1850, the atmospheric part of the
Italianate square is studded with southern Barri Gtic. It used to
tall palm trees and decorated be a red-light district of some
iron lamps (designed by the renown, and was frequented by
young Antoni Gaud), bordered the young Picasso, whose family
by high, pastel-coloured arcaded moved into the area in 1895. It
buildings, and centred on a still looks the part a narrow
fountain depicting the Three thoroughfare lined with dark
Graces.Taking in the sun at one overhanging buildings but the
of the benches or pavement fashionable cafs and boutiques
cafs puts you in mixed tell the story of its creeping
company punks, bikers, gentrification. A few rough
buskers, Catalan eccentrics, edges still show, particularly
tramps and bemused tourists. It around Plaa George Orwell,
used to be a bit dodgy in Plaa whose low steps and funky bars
Reial, but most of the really are a favoured hangout for the
unsavoury characters have been grunge crowd.
driven off over the years as
tourists have staked an Carrer de la Merc
increasing claim to the square. In the eighteenth century, the
Nonetheless, keep an eye on neighbourhood known as La
your belongings, and dont Merc just a block from the
expect to see too many locals harbour was an aristocratic
until night falls, when the address, home to the many
surrounding bars come into nobles and merchants enriched

Contents Places
67
by Barcelonas maritime trade. Cerera Subir
Most fashionable families took Bxda. Llibreteria 7 t 933 152 606.
the opportunity to move north Barcelonas oldest shop (since
to the Eixample later in the 1760) has a beautiful interior,
nineteenth century, and the selling unique handcrafted

PLACES Barri Gtic


streets of La Merc took on an candles.
earthier hue. Since then, Carrer
de la Merc and surrounding Formatgeria La Seu
streets have been home to a C/Daguera 16 t 934 126 548. Closed
series of characteristic old-style Mon. The best farmhouse cheeses
taverns known as tascas or from independent producers all
bodegas a glass of wine from over Spain. Catherine, whos
the barrel in Bodega la Plata (see Scottish, will introduce you into
p.69), or a similar joint, is one of the world of cheese with
the old towns more authentic Saturday cheese tastings
experiences. (noon3pm; e5).
At Plaa de la Merc, the
eighteenth-century Esglsia de Futura
la Merc is the focus of the C/Escudellers 56 t 933 174 975.
citys biggest annual celebration, Argentinean designer producing
the Festa de la Merc (see clothes from interesting,
p.191) every September, colourful fabrics.
dedicated to the patroness of
Barcelona.The square outside Gotham
was remodelled in the twentieth C/Cervantes 7 t 934 124 647. The
century around its statue of place to come for retro
Neptune. furniture, lighting and
accessories from all periods from
the 1930s to 1970s, plus original
Shops designs.

LArca del Avia  PLAA DUC DE MEDINACELI

C/Banys Nous 20 t 933 021 598.


Catalan brides used to fill up
their nuptial trunk (larca) with
embroidered bed linen and lace.
Period (eighteenth-, nineteenth-
and early twentieth-century)
costumes can be hired or
purchased as well Kate Winslets
Titanic costume came from here.

Art Escudellers
C/Escudellers 2325 t 934 126 801,
w www.escudellers-art.com.
Enormous shop selling a wide
range of ceramics, glass,
jewellery and decorated tiles
from different regions of Spain.
Shipping can be arranged, and
theres also a gourmet wine and
food section.

Contents Places
68
Herboristeria del Rey
C/del Vidre 1 t 933 180 512. An Cafs
early nineteenth-century
herbalists shop, tucked off Plaa Bar del Pi
Reial, which stocks more than Pl. Sant Josep Oriol 1 t 933 022 123.
Barri Gtic PLACES

250 medicinal herbs designed to MonSat 9am11pm, Sun


combat all complaints. 10am10pm; closed 2 weeks in Jan &
Aug. Small caf-bar best known
Llibreria Quera for its terrace on one of
C/Petritxol 2 t 933 180 743, Barcelonas prettiest squares.
w www.llibreriaquera.com. Closed Sat in Service can be slow not that
Aug. Best and most knowledgeable anyones in a hurry in this
place in town for Catalan maps prime people-watching spot.
and trekking guides, though its a
bit of a squeeze in the cramped Cerera
little store. Bxda. de Sant Miquel 35 t 933 058
110. MonSat 10am10pm. Amiably
hip caf where the decor is
thrift-store chic, with piles of
old papers and magazines to
while away the hours. Food is
breakfast- and veggie-friendly,
with great-looking cakes and a
changing roster of daily specials.

Mesn del Cafe


C/Llibreteria 16 t 933 150 754.
MonSat 7am11pm. Offbeat
locals bar where youll probably
have to stand to sample the
pastries and the excellent coffee
including a cappuccino laden
with fresh cream.

Venus Delicatessen
 ESPADRILLES, MANUAL ALPARGATERA C/dAviny 25 t 933 011 585.
MonSat noonmidnight. Med-bistro
Manual Alpargatera cuisine available throughout the
C/dAviny 7 t 933 010 172, day and night. Its good for
w www.lamanualalpargatera.com. vegetarians, with lasagne,
This traditional workshop makes couscous, moussaka and salads
and sells alpargatas (espadrilles) all costing around e59, and
to order, as well as producing theres a well-priced weekday
other straw and rope work. lunchtime men del dia too.

El Mercadillo Xaloc
C/Portaferrissa 17 t 933 018 913. C/Palla 1317 t 933 011 990.
Double-decker complex of MonThurs & Sun 9ammidnight, Fri &
shops selling skate-, club- and Sat 9am1am. A contemporary
beachwear and shoes look out xarcuteria and deli so you can
for the camel marking the get any kind of cured meat and
entrance.Theres a bar upstairs cheese in your sandwich but
with a nice patio garden. its also an airy place to stop for

Contents Places
69
Caf de lAcadmia
C/Lled 1 t 933 198 253. MonFri
9amnoon, 1.304pm &
8.4511.30pm; closed 2 weeks in Aug.
Creative Catalan cooking in a

PLACES Barri Gtic


romantic stone-flagged
restaurant with lovely summer
terrassa. Dishes range from confit
of bacall (salt cod) with spinach
and pine kernels to aubergine
terrine with goats cheese, plus
grills, fresh fish and rice. Prices
are very reasonable (mains
e1016) and its always busy, so
dinner reservations are essential.
A no-choice men del dia
(e11.50, e8 at the bar) is a
bargain for the quality; a nice
 COURTYARD CAF, EL MERCADILLO
SHOPPING CENTRE
breakfast is served too.

a coffee.The men del dia is Ginger


e10. C/Palma Sant Just 1 t 933 105 309.
TuesSat 7pm3am; closed 2 weeks in
Aug. Cocktails and creative tapas
Restaurants and in a groovy 1970s-style setting.
Its a world away from patatas
tapas bars bravas and battered squid think
roast duck vinaigrette, tuna
Bar Celta Pulpera tartare and vegetarian satay for
C/de la Merc 16 t 933 150 006. around e57 a pop.
MonSat 10am1am. This no-
nonsense brightly lit Galician Irati
tapas bar specializes in octopus, C/Cardenal Casaas 17 t 933 023
fried pimientos (peppers) and 084. TuesSun noonmidnight; pintxos
heady regional wine. Its best to served noon3pm & 711pm.
ask prices as you go here the Crowded brick-walled bar
foods good but the bill has a where locals think favourably of
habit of mounting up, especially the pintxos (Basque tapas, pinned
for out-of-towners. with sticks to a baguette slice),
which run the gamut from
Bodega la Plata country sausage to smoked
C/de la Merc 28 t 933 151 009. salmon.Theres a seasonally
Daily 10am4pm & 811pm. A changing Basque menu in the
classic taste of the old town, restaurant if finger food isnt
with a marble counter open to your thing, with mains around
the street and wine straight e1820.
from the barrel. Anchovies are
the speciality (salted and laid Juicy Jones
over cut tomatoes or deep- C/Cardenal Casaas 7 t 933 024 330.
fried, like whitebait), attracting Daily 10ammidnight. Veggie-vegan
an enthusiastic local crowd, restaurant/juice bar with a e9
from pre-clubbers to men del dia that touches all
businessmen. corners of the world say

Contents Places
Barri Gtic PLACES 70

 CARRER DE LA PALLA

cashew, carrot and coriander costing up to e30.The short


soup followed by pumpkin- menu changes weekly, but
stuffed gnocchi.The restaurant is Asian, Mediterranean and South
in a mural-and-graffiti-ridden American flavours set the tone
cellar at the back juices are dishes like asparagus tempura
squeezed and soy milkshakes and stuffed pork loin grab
whizzed at the front bar. diners taste buds. Its only small,
so reservations are advised.
Limbo
C/de la Merc 13 t 933 107 699. Saln
MonThurs & Sun 9pmmidnight, Fri & C/lHostal den Sol 68 t 933 152 159.
Sat 9pm1am; closed 2 weeks in Aug. MonSat 1.304.30pm & 8.30pm
Designer restaurant with an midnight; closed 2 weeks in Aug. Old
intimate feel, presenting an building with a Gothic sort of
interesting fusion of modern and feel, serving imaginative dishes in
traditional Catalan cuisine, like a relaxed bistro atmosphere.The
tuna with goats cheese or perch menu ranges far and wide from,
served in a Thai-style curry. say, rabbit with a mole sauce and
Most main dishes cost e1116. tacos to curried vegetables with a
yoghurt and coconut sauce.
Matsuri Mains cost e1215, or theres a
Pl. Regomir 1 t 932 681 535. MonFri weekday lunchtime men del dia
1.303.30pm & 811.30pm, Sat at e9.50; you can stay late and
811.30pm. Excellent Southeast drink at the bar too.
Asian cuisine, concentrating on
noodles,Thai salads and curries. Shunka
Service is friendly, and the C/Sagristans 5 t 934 124 991.
wooden Indonesian-style TuesFri 1.303.30pm &
furniture and terracotta colours 8.3011.30pm, Sat & Sun 24pm &
make for a relaxed meal. Around 8.3011.30pm; closed 2 weeks in
e25 a head. Aug.The locals think this is the
best Japanese restaurant in the
Oolong old town its certainly always
C/den Gignas 25 t 933 151 259. Daily busy, so make an advance
8pm1am. Refined fusion food in reservation, sit back and enjoy.
an informal setting, with dinner You can have the works for

Contents Places
71
e30, though sushi and a drink Caf Royale
at the bar by the open kitchen is C/Nou de Zurbano 3 t 934 121 433.
an enjoyable compromise. Daily 7pm3am. Sleek lounge bar
where all the beautiful people
Veronica get together to show off their

PLACES Barri Gtic


C/dAvinyo 30 t 934 121 122. Daily best moves to the Latin jazz,
noon1am; closed 2 weeks in Aug. soul and funky tunes. A
Crispy pizzas (all bar one conundrum: arrive after
vegetarian) and inventive salads midnight and youll have to join
are served at tables on funky the queue; come too early and
Plaa George Orwell, which youll be on your own.
catches the sun during the day.
At night theres a bit of a gay Glaciar
scene as the urban-chic bar- Pl. Reial 3 t 933 021 163. MonThurs
restaurant comes into play. 4pm2am, Fri & Sat 4pm3am, Sun
9am2am. At this traditional
Vinissim Barcelona meeting point the
C/Sant Domnec del Call 12 t 933 014 terrace seating is packed out
575. TuesSun noon4pm & most sunny evenings and at
6pm1am. Upscale tavern food weekends.
sliced meats, salads, torrades
(toasted bread with tomato and Leticia
oil) accompanied by fine C/de Codols 21 t 933 020 074. Daily
Catalan wines available by the except Tues 7pm3am. Cosy bar
glass. Lunch (e13) outside on with mellow sounds and a laid-
Plaa Manuel Ribe is a treat on back clientele the sofa at the
a warm day. back is the seat in demand.
Monthly art exhibitions add
some colour, while sandwiches,
Bars salads and cakes are served until
late.
Ascensor
C/Bellafila 3 t 933 185 347. Daily Pipa Club
6pm3am. Old lift doors and Pl. Reial 3 t 933 024 732,
control panel signal the entrance w www.bpipaclub.com. Daily
to this popular local bar. Its not 11pm3am. Historically a pipe-
at all touristy, and has a smokers haunt, its a
comfortable feel great for a wood-panelled, jazzy, late-night
late-night drink and a natter. kind of place ring the bell for
 PICASSO FRIEZE ON COLLEGI DARQUITECTES

Contents Places
72
admission and make your way Jamboree
up the stairs. Pl. Reial 17 t 933 191 789,
w www.masimas.com. Jazz gigs
So-da nightly at 11pm and 12.30am,
C/dAviny 24 t 934 122 776. Daily and then you stay on for the
Barri Gtic PLACES

9pm2.30am. In the daytime this club, playing funk, swing, hip-


place is a cutting-edge urban hop and R&B. Admission
clothes store; at night the e610.
designer rags are locked away
into cupboards and the place Karma
turns into a wicked bar, with Pl. Reial 10 t 933 025 680. TuesSun
comfy armchairs and tasty 11.30pm5am. A studenty
cocktails. basement place that can get
claustrophobic at times. Sounds
Travel Bar are indie, Britpop and US
C/Boqueria 27 t 933 425 252, college, while a lively local
w www.travelbar.com. MonThurs & crowd mills around the square
Sun 9am2am, Fri & Sat 9am3am. outside.
Backpacking Catalans have
brought their experiences home Macarena
to provide a bar where travellers C/Nou de Sant Francesc 5; no phone.
can hang out and meet like- MonThurs & Sun 11pm4am, Fri &
minded souls, sign up for tours, Sat 11pm5am. Once a place
check their email and generally where flamenco tunes were
chill out. offered up to La Macarena, the
Virgin of Seville. Now its a
heaving, funky, electronic
Clubs temple with a tolerant crowd
they have to be, as theres not
Fonfone much space. Entry usually free.
C/dels Escudellers 24 t 933 171 424,
w www.fonfone.com. Daily 10pm3am. Sidecar
Attracts a young crowd into fast, C/Heures 46, Pl. Reial t 933 021 586.
hard music, though it changes TuesSun 11pm4.30am. Hip music
mood sometimes with satin soul club pronounced See-day-
and best-of-1980s nights. car with nightly gigs and DJs
that champion rock, pop, fusion
Harlem Jazz Club and urban styles. Class local acts
C/Comtessa de Sobradiel 8 t 933 100 like GoLem System appear
755. Closed Aug. Small, usually regularly; entry from e6.
jam-packed venue for mixed
jazz styles, from African and Tarantos
Gypsy to flamenco and fusion; Pl. Reial 17 t 933 191 789,
live music nightly at 10.30pm w www.masimas.com. Barcelonas
and midnight (weekends oldest flamenco show has
11.30pm & 1am). Cover charge nightly performances at 10pm,
up to e5. plus other jazz, funk and tango
gigs (entry from around e10),
followed by Latin and world
music sounds until 5am with
the resident DJ.

Contents Places
73

Port Vell and


Barceloneta

PLACES Port Vell and Barceloneta


Barcelona has an urban waterfront that merges seam-
lessly with the old town, providing an easy escape from
the claustrophobic medieval streets. The harbour at the
bottom of the Ramblas has been thoroughly overhauled
in recent years and Port Vell (Old Port), as its now
known, presents a series of heavyweight tourist attrac-
tions, from sightseeing boats to a maritime museum
not to mention the shops, bars and restaurants of the
entertainment centre called Maremgnum. By way of
contrast, Barceloneta the wedge of land to the east,
backing the marina retains its eighteenth-century
character, and the former fishing quarter is still the
most popular place to come and eat paella, fish and
seafood. Metro Drassanes, at the bottom of the
Ramblas, is the best starting point for Port Vell;
Barceloneta has its own metro station.

Mirador de Coln depart on regular trips


Pl. Portal de la Pau t 933 025 224. April throughout the year around the
& May daily 10am-7.30pm; JuneSept inner harbour see p.190.
daily 9am8.30pm; OctMarch MonFri
 MIRADOR DE COLN
10am1.30pm & 3.306.30pm, Sat &
Sun 10am6.30pm. e2. The striking
monument at the foot of the
Ramblas commemorates the visit
made by Christopher Columbus
to Barcelona in June 1493, when
the Italian-born navigator was
received in style by the Catholic
monarchs Ferdinand and Isabella.
Columbus tops a grandiose iron
column, 52m high, guarded by
lions, around which unfold reliefs
telling the story of his life and
travels here, if nowhere else,
the old mercenary is still the
discoverer of America.You can
ride the lift up to the enclosed
viewing platform at Columbuss
feet, from where the 360-degree
views are terrific. Meanwhile,
from the quayside in front of the
Columbus monument, Las
Golondrinas sightseeing boats

Contents Places
74

RRA
A

AVIN
C D E PO NA La Merc
S M AD RO

AV
RIE RT A L SA N
DA

GU
IN
AU TA DRASSANES
PA L VE

DA
GU
E CLA PLAA DE

CD
CD M ELM

DE
DA
IG UER ANS LA MERC

LE
AL
XOR SEP

DE
PLAA DUC

SD
RA Govern C JO
Drassanes E

PA
BAR
I
E IG D
SS DE MEDINACELI
P U IG A NES Militar

RA
DE
EDA
(Museu PA S S

LL
C
Martim) PLAA PORTAL Port de

EL
R A
CD

RRE DE LA PAU Barcelona


CA
E

E
Port Vell and Barceloneta PLACES

CD
V IL

Mirador de F U S TA
UC DE LA
I V IL

Coln MOLL
R Duana Port de
ARNE

E P G Barcelona
E JOS S A N ES Santa Eullia
PG. D S DRA
S
D E LE
M O LL
Las Golondrinas Real Club
OR AL (Boat trips) Nautico
L L IT Real Club
A DE
ROND Maritim
M O LL

Rambla
de Mar
PO RT
DE BA

(Swing Bridge)
Estaci
VELL
RC

E N
L D RA
Terminal Maremgnum
O L R T Trans-Mediterranea Martima
E LO N A

M BE 5 6
A NT NYA
S D ES PA
M OL L
Torre de Jaume I

MOLL DELS
World Trade Tra
Centre s RS
EA
(To bord BA
L
Mo ado EL
S
TAPAS AND ntj r A LD
RESTAURANTS uc eri OL
) M
Antiga Casa Sol 8
Can Manel 10
Can Mao 3 Torre
de Sant
Can Ramonet 4 Sebasti
Can Ros 9
Cova Fumada 7
MO

dZi 11
LL

Jai-Ca 2 L
DE

TA U
EN NO
CA

0 250 m CID LL
TA

LO
C MO
LU

L
MO
NY
A

Museu Martim sections covering Catalunyas


Avgda. de les Drassanes t 933 429 relationship with the sea and
920, w www.diba.es/mmaritim. Daily containing sailing boats,
10am7pm. e5.40. Barcelonas figureheads, old maps and charts,
unique medieval shipyards, or navigation instruments and other
Drassanes, date from the nautical bits and pieces.Theres a
thirteenth century and were in good restaurant at the museum,
continuous use fitting and while the caf puts out tables in
arming Catalunyas war fleet or the pleasant courtyard.
trading vessels until well into
the eighteenth century.Today, Santa Eullia
the huge, stone-vaulted buildings Moll de la Fusta; no phone. TuesFri
make a fitting home for the noon5.30pm, Sat & Sun
enjoyable Maritime Museum, 10am5.30pm. e2.40, free with Museu
whose centrepiece is a full-scale Martim ticket. The three-masted
copy of a sixteenth-century royal ocean-going schooner Santa
galley which was originally Eullia is a flagship showpiece of
constructed here.This is the nearby Museu Martim.
surrounded by different thematic Dating from 1908, as the Carmen

Contents Places
75

V
C DE CO
NS
Llotja
ER C PLAA PLAA DEL
LA M DANTONI PALAU
ER D E Estaci
CARR LOPEZ Delegaci AL
C GE N ER OS
de
del Govern Frana
CA STA QUESA
M REINA MAR
COLO Lichtenstein C DE LATINA
CRIS
C DE LA
Sculpture

PLACES Port Vell and Barceloneta


AV IN G
UDA
D I C
BARCELONETA R IA
1
Palau C DE M
L DO
de Mar CTOR ROND
PLAA A LG U
ADER A DEL LIT
DE PAU ORAL
Mirador VILA CD
Ictineo del Port EL
BA
LBO
Vell Marina Museu dHistria 2 A
CD
de Catalunya EG
INE
IMAX BR
A
TA

3
Port
NE
ELO

Vell 4
RC

San Miquel CD

RD
BA

EL Parc de la
UA
PLAA DE LA del Port AM
LA

LAqurium AQ Barceloneta
AL
BARCELONETA UIN
DE

CB
IST
LL

Mercat de A
MO

PLAA POETA la Barceloneta


AR
RB

7 BOSC
IDA
LM

CD
BO

8 ES CD
NT

AN
DE

T. C DR
LA
DE

AR EA
ER

LES
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ADO CA CE PLAA
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PA

RRE 9
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A BRUGADA MAR
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CD

LM
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10 IRA B A R
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RR IXA
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LJ
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CD ICI
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A
Sea Point NA I
Hostel B AST
AN T SE
DE S
N

PLAA
PALMERES TJA
PLA
BARS
Irish Winds 5
Luz de Gas 1
Mojito Bar 6

Flores it once made the run undulating wooden walkways.


between Barcelona and Cuba, Inside are two floors of gift
but was subsequently acquired by shops and boutiques (including
the museum and fully restored. A an official FC Barcelona
short tour lets you walk the deck merchandise store), plus a wide
and shows off the interior. range of bars and restaurants
with harbourside seating and
Maremgnum high prices. Its a fun place to
Moll dEspanya t 932 258 100, come at night, though no self-
w www.maremagnum.es. Daily respecting local would rate the
11am11pm. From near the food as anything but ordinary.
Columbus statue, the wooden Outside, benches and park areas
Rambla de Mar swing bridge provide scintillating views back
strides across the harbour to across the harbour to the city.
Maremgnum on Moll
dEspanya, a typically bold piece LAqurium
of Catalan design, the soaring Moll dEspanya t 932 217 474,
glass lines of the leisure complex w www.aquariumbcn.com. Daily: July &
tempered by the surrounding Aug 9.30am11pm; SeptJune

Contents Places
Port Vell and Barceloneta PLACES 76

 PORT DE BARCELONA BUILDING

9.30am9pm, until 9.30pm at alien adventure, etc but youll


weekends. e13.50. Adjacent to find that the films are in Spanish
Maremgnum, Port Vells high- or Catalan only. If this puts you
profile aquarium drags in off, saunter down instead to the
families and school parties sloping lawn nearby to examine
throughout the year to see a the replica of the strange fish-
magical world, full of mystery. shaped submarine, the Ictineo,
Or, to be more precise, to see a genuine Catalan curiosity,
fish and sea creatures in 21 invented in the mid-nineteenth
themed tanks representing century by radical visionary
underwater caves, tidal areas, Narcs Monturiol i Estarriol.
tropical reefs, the planets oceans
and other maritime habitats. Its
vastly overpriced, and despite
the claims of excellence it offers
few new experiences, save
perhaps the eighty-metre-long
walk-through underwater
tunnel which brings you face to
face with gliding rays and
cruising sharks. Some child-
centred displays and activities,
and a nod towards ecology and
conservation matters, pad out
the attractions, before youre
tipped out in the aquarium shop  MARISCAL CRAYFISH, PORT VELL
so they can part you from even
more of your money. Museu dHistria de
Catalunya
IMAX Port Vell Palau de Mar, Pl. de Pau Vila 3 t 932
Moll dEspanya t 932 251 111, 254 700, w www.mhcat.net. Tues &
w www.imaxportvell.com. Screenings ThursSat 10am7pm, Wed
11am10.30pm, later at weekends. 10am8pm, Sun 10am2.30pm. e3,
Tickets e7 or e10. Barcelonas first Sun of month and public holidays
IMAX theatre stands next to free. The only surviving
the aquarium, with three screens warehouse on the Port Vell
showing films virtually hourly harbourside is known as the
in 3D or in giant format.The Palau de Mar, home to an
themes are familiar the enterprising museum tracing the
mysteries of the human body, history of Catalunya from the

Contents Places
77
Stone Age to the twentieth Plaa de la Font holds the local
century.There are temporary market, Mercat de la
shows on the ground floor, Barceloneta (MonSat
while a lift takes you up to the 7am3pm, plus Fri
permanent displays: second floor 4.308.30pm except in Aug),

PLACES Port Vell and Barceloneta


for year dot to the Industrial while the seafood restaurants
Revolution, and third for that are the neighbourhoods
periods and events up to 1980 raison dtre are found scattered
(though later coverage is right across the tight grid of
planned).You can pick up full streets but most characteristically
English notes at the desk, and lined along the harbourside
theres plenty to get your teeth Passeig Joan de Borb.
into, whether its poking around
the interior of a Roman grain Passeig Martim
ship or comparing the rival A double row of palms backs
nineteenth-century architectural the sweeping stone esplanade
plans for the Eixample. On the that runs from Barcelonetas
fourth floor, the caf-bar boasts beach, Platja de Sant Sebasti, as
a glorious view from its huge far as the Port Olmpic. Its a
terrace of the harbour,Tibidabo, fifteen-minute walk from
Montjuc and the city skyline Barceloneta to the port, but
you dont need a museum ticket some do it much quicker than
to visit this. that the Passeig Martim is a
The seafood restaurants in the notable track for bladers, skaters
Palau de Mar arcade below and joggers, who have one of
the museum are some of the the Meds best views for
most popular in the city, company.
especially at weekends. Here
 PLAA DE LA BARCELONETA
you overlook the packed
marina, where Catalans park
their yachts like they park their
cars impossibly tightly
fronted in summer by hawkers
spreading blankets on the
ground to sell jewellery and
sunglasses.

Barceloneta
Theres no finer place for lunch
on a sunny day than the
Barceloneta neighbourhood,
bound by the harbour on one
side and the Mediterranean on
the other. Laid out in 1755 as a
classic eighteenth-century grid,
its long, narrow streets are still
very much as they were
planned, broken at intervals by
small squares like Plaa de la
Barceloneta, with its eighteenth-
century fountain and
Neoclassical church of Sant
Miquel del Port.The adjacent

Contents Places
Port Vell and Barceloneta PLACES 78

 ICTINEO, PORT VELL

On the way, just before the lining the Ramblas look like the
hospital and port, youll pass the forked tongue of a serpent.
Parc de la Barceloneta, a Departures are every fifteen
rather plain expanse enlivened minutes, though in summer and
only by its whimsical modernista at weekends you may have to
water tower (1905), rising like a wait for a while at the top of
minaret above the palms. the towers for a ride as the cars
only carry about twenty people
Trasbordador Aeri at a time.
Torre de Sant Sebasti, Barceloneta
t 933 321 164. Daily 10.45am7pm.
e7.50 one-way, e9 return. The Restaurants and
most thrilling ride in the city
centre is across the inner tapas bars
harbour on the cable car, which
sweeps over the water from the Antiga Casa Sol
foot of Barceloneta to Montjuc. C/Sant Carles 4 t 932 215 012.
The views are stunning, and you TuesSat 14pm & 811pm, Sun
can pick out with ease the 14pm. Founded in 1903, it was
familiar towers of La Seu and here that sarsuela (Catalan fish
Sagrada Famlia, while the trees stew) was invented. Since then,
 MEN DEL DIA SIGN, BARCELONETA
the quiet, formal restaurant has
been dishing up market-fresh
fish and seafood, either in stews
or casseroles (suquets) or simply
grilled, sauted or mixed with
rice. Count on a good e40 a
head and reserve ahead for
dinner.

Can Manel
Pg. Joan de Borb 60 t 932 215 013.
Daily 14pm & 8pmmidnight. An
institution since 1870, which
fills very quickly, inside and out,
because the food is both good
and reasonably priced. Paella,
fideu (noodles with seafood)
and arrs a banda (rice with
seafood) are staples, while grilled
fish always costs more. A

Contents Places
79
weekday lunchtime men del dia Come for a gregarious lunch in
keeps the cost down, but theres this busy traditional tapas bar.
usually not much fish or seafood The seafood is straight from the
choice on this. market, and if you want the
house speciality ask for the

PLACES Port Vell and Barceloneta


Can Mao bombas (spicy meatballs).
C/Baluard 12 t 933 193 082. MonFri
8am5.30pm & 8.3011pm, Sat dZi
8am5pm; closed Aug. Theres rarely Pg. Joan de Borb 76 t 932 212 182.
a tourist in sight in this old- Daily 14pm & 8pmmidnight. Its
fashioned locals diner. Fried or pronounced zhee, which is a
grilled fish is the thing here Tibetan sacred stone, but the
(sardines, mullet, calamari), lovely fresh-tasting food is
though there are some daily Southeast Asian, mainly
specials and basic meat dishes, Chinese, Malaysian and
rough house wine and Japanese, either served in the
absolutely no frills. Its an serene dining room or outside
authentic experience, which is on the shady terrassa.Yu-shian
likely to cost you less than e10 pork with aubergine or
a head. Formosa-style shrimps with
ginger are great bets, with
Can Ramonet green-tea ice cream amongst the
C/Maquinista 17 t 933 193 064. Daily desserts. About e25 a head,
10am4pm & 8pmmidnight; closed though you can eat for e10 or
Sun dinner & Aug. Reputedly the so at lunch.
oldest restaurant in the port
area, it has the added attraction  ROY LICHTENSTEIN SCULPTURE

of a shady terrassa. Seafood meals


can turn out pricey (mains
e1520) but you can always
hunker down instead in the
rustic front bar, where the tapas
is piled high on wooden barrels
the pernil (cured ham) is a
house speciality.

Can Ros
C/Almirall Aixada 7 t 932 215 049.
Daily 15pm & 8pmmidnight; closed
Wed. This is one of the best
places to sample paella, arrs
negre (black rice, ie made with
cuttlefish ink) or a fideu
(noodles) with clams and
shrimp, all of which cost around
e10.The tables are packed in
close together, but its a
comfortable, no-hurry kind of
place.

Cova Fumada
C/Baluard 56 t 932 214 061. MonFri
9am3pm & 68pm, Sat 9am3pm.

Contents Places
80
or outside onto the
tiny street-corner
patio.
Port Vell and Barceloneta PLACES

Bars
Irish Winds
Maremgnum t 932 258
187. MonThurs & Sun
12.30pm4am, Fri & Sat
12.30pm5am. A pretty
good place to catch
Irish/Celtic folk, with
live music in the pub
around 11pm most
nights.

Luz de Gas
Moll del Diposit, in front of
Palau de Mar t 932 097
711, w www.luzdegas.com.
MarchOct daily noon3am.
Sip a chilled drink on
the polished deck of
the moored boat, and
soak up some great
marina and harbour
views. Queues form
on hot days, when
every parasol-shaded
seat is taken, but its
especially nice at dusk
 BOARDWALK, PLATJA DE SANT SEBASTI
as the city lights begin
to twinkle.
Jai-Ca
C/Ginebra 13 t 932 683 265. Daily Mojito Bar
10am11pm. Scrutinize the tapas Maremgnum t 933 528 746. Daily
list on the wall or just check 5pm5am. Themed Caribbean
what your neighbours having playhouse, with tropical decor,
a bundle of navajas (razor cocktails and free daily salsa
clams), say, or some plump classes.The salsoteca packs them
anchovies. Meanwhile, the fryers in on Friday and Saturday
in the kitchen work overtime, nights, and theres live music
turning out crisp baby squid with the Cuban big band on
and little green peppers Sunday.
scattered with salt.Take your
haul to a tile-topped cane table,

Contents Places
81

El Raval
The old-town neighbourhood of El Raval, on the west
side of the Ramblas, was traditionally known as a red-

PLACES El Raval
light area. It still has some very seedy corners (particu-
larly south of Carrer de Sant Pau), though its changing
rapidly, notably in the upper Raval around Barcelonas
contemporary art museum, MACBA, from which ripple
out cutting-edge galleries, see-and-be-seen restau-
rants and fashionable bars. Historically, El Raval (from
the Arabic word for suburb) stood outside the medieval
city walls, housing hospitals, churches and monaster-
ies, and noxious trades like slaughterhouses (tallers,
hence the street name Carrer dels Tallers) that had no
place in the more refined Gothic quarter. Throughout
most of the twentieth century, the neighbourhood was
notorious for its sleazy Barri Xins (China Town),
though regeneration has cleaned up large parts of El
Raval, and now a younger, artier, more affluent popula-
tion rubs shoulders with the areas Asian and North
African immigrants and the older, traditional residents.
Metros Catalunya, Liceu, Drassanes and Paral.lel serve
the neighbourhood.

Museu dArt Contemporani collection represents the main


de Barcelona (MACBA) movements in art since 1945,
Pl. dels ngels 1 t 934 120 810, mainly (but not exclusively) in
w www.macba.es. JuneSept Mon & Catalunya and Spain, and is
WedFri 11am8pm, Sat 10am8pm, shown in rotating exhibitions,
Sun 10am3pm; rest of the year closes so, depending on when you
weekdays 7.30pm. e7, Wed e3, visit, you may catch works by
special exhibitions e4. Anchoring major names such as Joan Mir
the northern reaches of the or Antoni Tpies, or coincide
Raval is the Museu dArt
 SKATEBOARDERS OUTSIDE MACBA
Contemporani de
Barcelona (MACBA),
whose main facade is
entirely constructed of
glass. Once inside, you
go from the ground
to the fourth floor up
a series of swooping
ramps, which afford
continuous views of
the square below
usually full of
careering
skateboarders.The

Contents Places
82
GRAN VIA DE LES CORTS CATALANES
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BARS AND CLUBS CAFS, TAPAS AND RESTAURANTS


Almirall 3 Jazz S Club 5 Muy nima 16 Granja M. Viader 15
Bar Ra 19 Kabara 22 Buenas 17 Biblioteca 23 Kasparo 4
Caf de les Llantiol 20 Paloma 1 Casa de la Mamacaf 9
Delcies 24 London Bar 27 Rioja 10 Pollo Rico 26
Confitera 25 Merry Ant 11 Elisabets 6 Sesamo 7
Dostrece 18 Moog 28 Fragua 21 Silenus 14
Fortuny 12 Muebles Navarro 13 Granja de Gav 2 Tres Tombs 8

with shows by contemporary books, and a caf around the


Catalan conceptual artists. back thats part of the CCCB
Probably the best way to (see p.83).
acquaint yourself with the
collection is to take the free Foment de les Artes
guided tour (Wed & Sat at 6pm, Dcoratives (FAD)
Sun and public hols at noon). Pl. dels ngels 56 t 934 437 520,
Theres also a good museum w www.fadweb.com. TuesFri
shop, selling everything from 11am8pm, Sun 11am4pm. Free.
designer espresso cups to art Part of the former Convent dels

Contents Places
83
ngels now houses the 11am8pm, Sun 11am7pm. Entry to
headquarters of the Foment de exhibitions e4/5.50. The citys
les Artes Dcoratives (FAD) a contemporary culture centre
decorative art and design (CCCB) hosts temporary art and
organization founded in 1903 city-related exhibitions as well as

PLACES El Raval
whose exhibition spaces supporting a cinema and a varied
(including the former convent concert programme.The
chapel) are dedicated to imaginatively restored building is
industrial and graphic design, a prime example of the
crafts, architecture, contemporary juxtaposition of old and new;
jewellery and fashion. Drop by to built as the Casa de la Caritat in
see the latest temporary 1714 on the site of a fourteenth-
exhibitions, or call in to frequent century Augustine convent, and
the spiffy bar and restaurant. added to in the late eighteenth
FAD also coordinates the annual and nineteenth centuries, it was
Tallers Oberts (or Open for hundreds of years an
Workshops; last weekend of infamous workhouse and lunatic
May and first weekend in June), asylum. In the entrance to the
when visitors can tour craft centre, in what is now called the
outlets in the Raval and Ribera. Plaa de les Dones, you can see
the old tile panels and facade in a
Centre de Cultura patio presided over by a small
Contempornia de Barcelona statue of Sant Jordi, patron saint
(CCCB) of Catalunya. At the back of the
C/Montalegre 5 t 933 064 100, building the caf (MonFri
w www.cccb.org. Mid-June to mid-Sept 9am7pm, Sat & Sun
TuesSat 11am 8pm, Sun 11am3pm; 11am6pm) makes the most of
mid-Sept to mid-June Tues, Thurs & Fri its terrassa on the modern square
11am2pm & 48pm, Wed & Sat joining the CCCB to the
MACBA.
 SANT JORDI STATUE

Plaa Vicen Martorell


One of Barcelonas nicest traffic-
free squares lies just off the
Ramblas, a few minutes walk
from MACBA.There are not
many places in the old town
where children can play safely, so
the small playground here (with
swings and a slide) is all the more
welcome for local families.Whats
more, its overlooked by a first-
rate caf, the Kasparo (see p.87),
whose arcade tables are busy
from morning to night a real
find if youre looking for a break
from sightseeing. Meanwhile,
around the corner, the narrow
Carrer del Bonsuccs and
Carrer dels Tallers house a
concentrated selection of the
citys best independent music and
CD stores.

Contents Places
84
Hospital de la
Santa Creu
Entrances on c/del Carme
and c/de lHospital. Daily
10amdusk. Free. The
El Raval PLACES

districts most
substantial historic
relic is an attractive
complex of Gothic
buildings that was
founded as the citys
main hospital in
1402, a role it
maintained until
1930.The spacious
fifteenth-century
hospital wards were
subsequently
converted for
cultural and
educational use, and
now hold an artisanal  DETAIL FROM HOTEL ESPAA
school and two libraries,
including the Catalan national character thats all its own,
library, the Biblioteca de dotted with kebab shops, halal
Catalunya.Visitors can wander butchers, telephone offices,
freely through the pleasant neighbourhood bars and grocery
medieval cloistered garden stores, as well as an increasing
(access from either street), while number of rather fashionable
just inside the c/del Carme cafs a popular target for locals
entrance (on the right) are some and tourists alike.
superb seventeenth-century Just off the top of the rambla
decorative tiles and a tucked off c/de lHospital the
Renaissance courtyard.The narrow Carrer de la Riera
hospitals former chapel, La Baixa is at the centre of the
Capella de lAntic Hospital citys second-hand/vintage
(TuesSat noon2pm & 48pm, clothing scene. A dozen funky
Sun 11am2pm; free), entered little independent clothes shops
separately from c/de lHospital, and music stores provide the
is an exhibition space featuring scope for an hours browsing.
a changing programme of works
by young Barcelona artists. Hotel Espaa
C/de Sant Pau 911 t 933 181 758,
Rambla de Raval w www.hotelespanya.com. Some of
The most obvious manifestation the most influential names in
of the changing character of El Catalan modernista architecture
Raval is the palm-lined and design came together at the
boulevard that has been gouged turn of the twentieth century to
through the former tenements transform the dowdy Espaa
and alleys, providing a huge new hotel (originally built in 1860)
pedestrianized area between into one of the citys most lavish
c/de lHospital and c/de Sant addresses.With a tiled dining
Pau.The rambla has a distinct room designed by Domnech i

Contents Places
85
Montaner, a bar with an all shaped, carved and twisted in
amazing marble fireplace by an elaborate style that was to
Eusebi Arnau, and a ballroom become the hallmark of Gauds
whose marine murals were later works, while the roof terrace
executed by Ramon Casas, the culminates in a fantastical series

PLACES El Raval
hotel was the fashionable of chimneys decorated with
sensation of its day. Its been well swirling patterns made from
looked after ever since, and you fragments of glazed tile, glass and
can have a good nosy around for earthenware. Unfortunately,
the price of lunch or even stay guided tours of the building have
here overnight though the been suspended whil rrenovation
guest rooms are nowhere near as work is carried out, and Palau
impressive as the public areas. Gell is not expected to be open
to the public until late 2006
Palau Gell
C/Nou de la Rambla 35 t 933 173 Esglsia de Sant Pau del
974. El Ravals outstanding Camp
building is the Palau Gell C/de Sant Pau 101 t 934 410 001.
(188690), an extraordinary MonFri 4.308pm, Sat 10am2pm,
townhouse designed by the Sun Mass at 10.30am & 12.30pm. e1.
young Antoni Gaud for wealthy The name of the church of Sant
industrialist Eusebi Gell i Pau del Camp (St Paul of the
Bacigalupi.At a time when Field) is a graphic reminder that
architects sought to conceal the it once stood in open fields
iron supports within buildings, beyond the city walls.The oldest
Gaud turned them to his and one of the most interesting
advantage, displaying them as churches in Barcelona, Sant Pau
decorative features in the grand was a Benedictine foundation of
rooms on the main floor, which the tenth century, built after its
are lined with dark marble hewn predecessor was destroyed in a
from the Gell family quarries. Muslim raid of 985 AD, and
Columns, arches and ceilings are constructed on a Greek cross
 EGLSIA DE SANT PAU DEL CAMP
plan. Above the main entrance
are curious, primitive
thirteenth-century
carvings of fish, birds and
faces, while other animal
forms adorn the double
capitals of the charming
twelfth-century cloister.
Inside, the church is dark
and rather plain, enlivened
only by tiny arrow-slit
windows and small
stained-glass circles high
up in the central dome.

Mercat de Sant Antoni


C/del Comte dUrgell 1 t 934
234 287. MonThurs & Sat
7am2.30pm & 5.308.30pm,
Fri 7am8.30pm. The
neighbourhoods major

Contents Places
86
produce market makes a nice El Indio
contrast to the Boqueria there C/del Carme 24 t 933 175 442. The
are not nearly so many tourists most traditional place in town
for a start and, unlike many of to buy linen, pillows, blankets,
the other city markets, its sheets and tablecloths the
El Raval PLACES

surrounded by enclosed aisles modernista facade, long cutting


packed with stalls selling cheap counters, wood panels and
shoes, underwear, marble floor survive from its
T-shirts, childrens clothes, bed nineteenth-century glory days.
linen, towels and other household
goods. Come on Sunday and Lailo
theres a book and coin market C/de la Riera Baixa 20 t 934 413 749.
(9am2pm) instead, with Second-hand and vintage
collectors and enthusiasts getting clothes shop with a massively
here early to pick through the wide-ranging stock.
best bargains, from old paperbacks
to commemorative coins.The Ras
traditional place to take a break C/Dr Joaquim Dou 10 t 934 127 199,
from market shopping is Els Tres w www.actar.es. Opens 1pm, closed
Tombs, the restaurant-bar across Mon. Specializes in books and
the road (see p.89). magazines on graphic design,
architecture and photography.
Temporary exhibitions at the
Shops back are always worth a look.

Cerera Mas Recicle Recicle


C/del Carme 5 t 933 470 138. C/de la Riera Baixa 13 t 934 431 815.
Candles in every conceivable Second-hand and vintage
shape, design, size and colour. fashion, from the 1950s
onwards, with a rapid turnover.
Discos Castell
C/del Tallers 3 t 933 182 041; no.7
t 933 025 946; and no.79 t 933 013 Cafs
575; w www.discoscastello.es. Large
music selection, with separate Granja de Gav
stores for classical recordings C/Joaquim Costa 37 t 933 175 883.
(no.3) and jazz and 70s pop-rock MonFri 8am1am, Sat 8am2.30am.
(no.79). No.7 is also a good Traditionally tiled caf with arty
place to buy concert tickets. airs witness the daubs on the
walls, the 3m-high woman on
Forvm Ferlandina the bar and the Wednesday-
C/Ferlandina 31 t 934 418 018, night poetry readings.
w www.forvmferlandina.com. Closed Sandwiches, shakes, juices,
Sat pm, Mon & all Aug. Inventive, crepes and salads served to an
contemporary jewellery using a intellectual crowd.
variety of design mediums.
Granja M. Viader
Gimnez & Zuazo C/Xucl 46 t 933 183 486. Mon
C/Elisabets 20 t 934 123 381, 58.45pm, TuesSat 9am1.45pm &
w www.gimenezzuazo.com. Two 58.45pm. The oldest granja (milk
collections a year of cutting- bar) in town, inventor of
edge womens fashion, funky Cacaolat (a popular chocolate
and informal. drink), but you could also try

Contents Places
87
mel i mat (curd cheese and 14pm & 9pmmidnight. Funky
honey), llet Mallorquina (fresh joint attracting a young crowd,
milk with cinnamon and lemon who come for the seasonally
rind) or a thick hot chocolate influenced fusion cooking
topped with fresh cream. A courgette flowers and mussels

PLACES El Raval
popular breakfast stop. tempura followed by monkfish
with a garlic and pistachio crust
Kasparo are typical summer dishes, with
Pl. Vicen Martorell 4 t 933 022 072. most mains around e14. Its a
Daily 9am10pm, until midnight in nice place for lunch, especially if
summer; closed 2 weeks in Jan. Sited you can get a table outside.
in the arcaded corner of a quiet
square.Theres muesli, Greek Biblioteca
yoghurt and toast and jam for C/Junta del Comer 28 t 934 126 261.
early birds. Later, sandwiches, TuesSat 14pm & 9pmmidnight;
tapas and assorted platos del dia closed 2 weeks in Aug. One of the
(dishes of the day) are on offer more agreeable of Barcelonas
things like hummus and bread, current dining hot spots fish
vegetable quiche, couscous or might be cooked Japanese- or
pasta. Basque-style, clams paired with
cured ham, lamb given the local
treatment (with parsnip and
turnip), or venison pie served
with pure of the day. Meals cost
around e3540, though the e9
lunchtime men del dia provides
a more simple experience.
Reservations advised.

Casa de la Rioja
C/Peu de la Creu 810 t 934 433 363.
MonSat 14pm & 811pm; bar open
from 9am and after 11pm. The
Riojan Centres contemporary-
styled restaurant introduces
Barcelona to the regional food
of La Rioja, like empedrado (a
potato, pork, pimiento and
onion broth) or grilled jurel (a
white fish) smothered in
anchovy paste.The lunchtime
men del dia (e9.50) is an
absolute steal, or the bar is open
beyond meal times (and late) for
 SECOND-HAND CLOTHES STORE, C/DE LA
RIERA BAIXA excellent tapas.

Elisabets
Restaurants and C/dElisabets 2 t 933 175 826. MonFri
8ammidnight, Sat 8am2am; closed
tapas bars Aug. Reliable Catalan home
cooking at cramped tables in the
nima brick-walled rear dining room
C/dels ngels 6 t 933 424 912. Daily (meals 14pm & 9pmmidnight),

Contents Places
88
or tapas and drinks at the bar. 9pmmidnight) it operates as a
The hearty e8 lunch is hard to caf.
beat, and there are set dinners
and all-in tapas meals too. Pollo Rico
C/de Sant Pau 31 t 934 413 184. Daily
El Raval PLACES

Fragua 10ammidnight. Barcelonas


Rambla del Raval 15 t 934 428 097. original greasy spoon has been
TuesSun 14pm & 8pm1am. Classic here forever and, while its not
old bodega with the smell of to everyones taste, if youre in
wood smoke in the air.Tables on the mood for good spit-roast
the rambla are at a premium, chicken, limp fries and a glass of
though this is a cosy winters day rot-gut wine, served quick-smart
kind of place, too. Food is at the bar, this is the place.The
standard Catalan lots of upstairs dining room is a tad
chargrilling (vegetables as well as more sophisticated (only a tad)
meat and fish), tapas and a short either way, youll be hard pushed
vegetarian menu and the prices to spend e10 from a long menu
are low, even discounting the e7 of Spanish/Catalan staples.
men del dia (e10 at night).
Sesamo
Mamacaf C/Sant Antoni Abat 52 t 934 416 411.
C/del Dr Joaquim Dou 10 t 933 012 Mon & WedSat 1pm1am, Sun
940. MonSat 1pm1am; open 7pm1am. Innovative yet
evenings only in Aug. It looks like a inexpensive vegetarian cooking
spruced-up boiler room but the that will please the most
modern Catalan food (healthy discerning palate.The recipe:
and creative) is pretty good and fresh, organic ingredients and
the atmosphere laid-back. Mains influences from all over the
cover everything from a house globe. Meals are served 1pm to
hamburger to salmon with 3.30pm and 9pm till 11.30pm,
Indonesian-style rice.Theres a with an e8 set lunch or a la carte
good value men del dia, while dinner for under e20 drop in
outside meal times (14pm & for a drink at other times.
 SILENUS RESTAURANT

Contents Places
89
Silenus place to kick off a nights bar-
C/dels ngels 8 t 933 022 680. Mon hopping.
14pm, TuesSat 14pm &
8.3011.30pm. Very arty place near Bar Ra
MACBA presenting some unique Pl. de la Gardua 3 t 933 014 163,

PLACES El Raval
dishes squid with broad beans w www.ratown.com. MonSat
and foie gras, for example, or 9am2am. Extremely hip bar
even fillets of that well-known behind the Boqueria market,
Catalan marsupial, the kangaroo. with a groove-ridden music
The interior is very Barcelona policy and a sunny patio. Its not
distressed walls, leather just for drinks breakfasts are
banquettes, white tablecloths laid out of the ordinary, and theres
on marble tables. If you come for eclectic world cuisine for lunch
lunch you can eat from the men and dinner.
del dia for around e10; otherwise,
dinner costs at least e30. Caf de les Delcies
Rambla de Raval 47 t 934 415 714.
Daily 6pm2am. Typical of the
neighbourhood, this dolls house
of a bar attracts an arty crowd,
who relax amid shelves of books
and temporary exhibitions.

Confitera
C/de Sant Pau 128 t 934 430 458.
Daily 7pm3am. This modernista
bakery and sweet shop carved
 ELS TRES TOMBS wood bar, faded tile floor, murals,
antique chandeliers is now a
Els Tres Tombs popular meeting point, with a
Ronda Sant Antoni 2 t 934 434 111. friendly, relaxed atmosphere.
Daily 6am2am. Occupying a wide
corner opposite the Mercat de Fortuny
Sant Antoni, this gregarious bar- C/Pintor Fortuny 31 t 933 179 892.
cum-restaurant barely closes, TuesSun 7pm1.30am; closed 1 week
welcoming a good-natured mix in Aug. Step back to the 1970s in
of market traders, locals, students this easygoing retro bar, where
and tourists.The foods good theres always time to sit and
(theres a big selection of tapas), chat. A few tables are set aside
or you can just pull up a chair for diners, who can chow down
on the terrassa and soak up the on light Mediterranean dishes.
street scenes.
Kabara
C/Junta de Comer 20 t 626 774 405.
Bars TuesFri 14pm & 8pm2am, Sat & Sun
8pm3am; closed Aug. Blood-red
Almirall arts scene bar and multicultural
C/de Joaquin Costa 33 t 933 189 space, with odds-and-ends
917. Daily 7pm3am. Dating from furniture, gigs most nights
1860, Barcelonas oldest bar (singers, open-mike sessions,
check out the modernista reggae bands) and a chilled-out
counter is a venerated leftist atmosphere. Cheap food too,
hangout, not to mention a great including a popular fondue.

Contents Places
90
London Bar
C/Nou de la Rambla 34 t 933 185 Clubs
261, w www.londonbarbcn.com. Daily
7.30pm4.30am; closed 2 weeks in Dostrece
Aug. Opened in 1910, this well- C/del Carme 40 t 933 017 306,
El Raval PLACES

known modernista hangout w www.dostrece.net. Daily


attracts a mostly tourist clientele 11.30pm4am. Small club under a
these days, but its still worth stylish upper Raval bar-
looking in at least once. It puts restaurant where local musicians
on jazz, swing, blues or tango and DJs take care of the
gigs most nights, the music ambience. Every night is
starting at 12.30am. different, though the crowd is
always young and cool.
Merry Ant
C/Peu de la Creu 23 t 626 787 126. Jazz S Club
Tues, Wed & Sun 7pm12.30am, C/Requesens 2 t 933 290 020,
ThursSat 9pm2am. Virtually w www.tallerdemusics.com. Every
unmarked brown barn doors night from 9pm in this small
open onto a DIY bodgers club theres different music:
delight bar, seats and tables inexpensive rock, blues and jam
have all been fashioned from sessions, plus jazz, son cubano and
cannibalized furniture and flamenco.
assorted junk-shop debris. Its all
a bit studied, and fiendishly Llantiol
cool, but La Hormiga Feliz (the C/Riereta 7 t 933 299 009, w www
sign you might see on the door) .llantiol.com. Closed Mon. Idiosyncratic
has a certain eccentric charm. cabaret club featuring mime,
song, clowns, magic and dance.
Muebles Navarro Shows (e912) normally begin at
C/Riera Alta 46 t 607 188 096. 9pm and 11pm (12.30am on Fri
TuesThurs & Sun 6pmmidnight, Fri & & Sat).
Sat 6pm3am; closed 2 weeks in Aug.
Relax in one of the various Moog
rooms of a converted furniture C/Arc del Teatre 3 t 933 017 282,
store, hence the bars name, w www.masimas.com. Daily
Navarro Furniture. A friendly 11.30pm5am. Influential club
place to have a drink, it also playing techno, electro, drum n
does tasty sandwiches and bass, house, funk and soul to a
excellent cheesecake. cool, but up-for-it crowd.

Muy Buenas La Paloma


C/del Carme 63 t 934 425 053. C/Tigre 27 t 933 016 897. ThursSat
TuesSat 9am3am. The Ravals 6pm5am. Fabulous modernista
nicest watering hole, with a hip, ballroom where old and young
eager-to-please staff making alike are put through their rumba
things go with a swing. A long and cha-cha-cha steps from 6pm
marble trough does duty as the to 9.30pm.Then, after 11.30pm,
bar, and the beers pulled from DJs take their positions. Mainly
antique beer taps. electro and other current beats,
though Saturdays 1980s night is a
blast and theres a once-a-month
punk party.

Contents Places
91

La Ribera and Sant Pere


The traditional highlights of the old artisans quarter of
La Ribera are the graceful church of Santa Mara del

PLACES La Ribera and Sant Pere


Mar and the Museu Picasso, the latter Barcelonas
biggest single tourist attraction. More recently, the
neighbourhood has also become the location of choice
for designers and craftspeople, whose boutiques and
workshops lend it an air of creativity. Art galleries and
applied art museums occupy the medieval mansions of
Carrer de Montcada the neighbourhoods most hand-
some street while the barri is at its most hip in the
area around the Passeig del Born, whose cafs, restau-
rants and bars make it one of the citys premier
nightlife centres. To the north, across Carrer de la
Princesa, medieval Sant Pere is in the throes of devel-
opment around its revamped market, though its the
neighbourhoods one remarkable building, the mod-
ernista Palau de la Msica Catalana, that really war-
rants the diversion. For this, the nearest metro station
is Urquinaona, while for everything else in La Ribera
you can start from Metro Jaume I.

Palau de la Msica Catalana contemporary critics claimed to


C/Sant Pere Ms Alt t932 957 200, be an engineering impossibility.
wwww.palaumusica.org. Box office open Visitor numbers on the guided
MonSat 10am9pm. Guided tours daily tours are limited and youll have
10am3.30pm, in English on the hour. to book in advance, either in
e7. Modernista architect
Domnech i Montaners  MUSEU DE LA XOCOLATA

stupendous concert hall


doesnt seem to have
enough breathing space in
the tiny street it faces.
Built in 1908, the bare
brick structure is
smothered in tiles and
mosaics, with the highly
elaborate facade resting on
three great columns, like
elephants legs.The
dramatic tiled lobby
provides a taster of the
stunning interior, which
incorporates a bulbous
stained-glass skylight
capping the second-storey
auditorium which

Contents Places
92
RON
CAFS, TAPAS AND
CA DA
RESTAURANTS
DE
CARRER DE ORTIGOSA CARRER DE TRAFALGAR TRA RRER D SAN
FALG E Arrel del Born TP 8
Palau de la AR ERE
Bar Salvador 21
Msica Catalana Caf del Born 17
PLAA
DU LLUIS CARRER DE SANT PERE Sant Pere de Can Paixano 25
MILLET S AN T P E R E MES
ALT les Puelles Casa Delfin 16

DEL BOU DE

DARGENTER
SANT PERE

CARRER DE
CARRER DE MARE
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CARRER

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La Ribera and Sant Pere PLACES

LA VICTORIA
Comer 24 1

CARRER DE
L E S B E AT E S
CARRER DE
VIA LAIETAN A

LEconmic 2
PLAA DE
SANT PERE Espai Sucre 5
CARRER DE SANT PERE MITJA
Mar de la Ribera 14

MONEC
CARRER DE
LES ARENES DE L Mosquito 3
SANT PERE COMTA
CARRER
DEL RE
C Rosal 12

LES BASSES DE
DE SANT PERE MES BAIX
DE

CARRER DE
SANT PERE
CARRER
LES BEATES
CARRER DE

Salero 22
CARRER DELS Santa Maria 4
MESTRES CASALS

CARRER DELS
Senyor Parellada 6
CARRER DE JAU
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PLAA DE Set Portes 24

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person or by phone at the box performances by the Orfeo Catal


office, or by calling at the nearby choral group and the Barcelona
gift shop, Les Muses del Palau, city orchestra, among others.
c/Sant Pere Mes Alt 1 (daily
9.30am3pm).The concert season Esglsia de Sant Pere de les
here (not all classical) runs from Puelles
October to June and includes Pl. de Sant Pere t 932 680 742.

Contents Places
93

PLACES La Ribera and Sant Pere


 PICASSO T-SHIRTS

MonSat 8.45am1pm & 57.30pm, Museu de la Xocolata


Sun 10am2pm. Sant Peres focal C/del Comer 36 t 932 687 878,
square is named, like the w www.museudelaxocolata.com. Mon
neighbourhood itself, for its & WedSat 10am7pm, Sun
monastic church, whose high 10am3pm. e3.80. Not many
walls and Gothic portal tower cities can boast a museum
above the paved squares cast- dedicated entirely to chocolate.
iron drinking fountain.The Barcelonas is housed in the
church was rebuilt in 1147 on former Convent de Sant Agusti,
even older foundations, but has whose thirteenth-century
been restored inside over the cloister, rediscovered when the
centuries almost beyond building was renovated, can still
interest. However, the three be viewed.The museum itself
medieval streets that converge at recounts the history of
the church, carrers de Sant Pere chocolate, from its origins as a
Ms Alt (upper), Mitja (middle) sacred and medicinal product of
and Baix (lower), contain the prehistoric Central America
bulk of the districts finest through to its introduction to
buildings and the nicest shops Europe as a confection in the
a mixture of small boutiques sixteenth century. As you might
and old family businesses. expect, the museum caf serves
a fine cup of hot chocolate
Mercat Santa Caterina and the choccie counter is
Avgda. Francesc Camb 16 t 933 195 something to behold too
740, w www.mercatsantacaterina.net. while at the adjacent Escola de
Work continues to spruce up the Patisseria, glass windows allow
streets and squares around the you to look onto the students
mid-nineteenth-century Mercat learning their craft in the
Santa Caterina (also currently kitchens.
under restoration).The discovery
of the foundations of a major Museu Picasso
medieval convent held up the C/de Montcada 1523 t 933 196 310,
markets renovation for a while, w www.museupicasso.bcn.es.
but its expected to be open TuesSat & hols 10am8pm, Sun
again to the public during 2005. 10am3pm. e5, first Sun of the month

Contents Places
94
free. Despite containing none of until 1972, with the top floor
his best-known works, incorporating various studies of
Barcelonas Picasso Museum Jacqueline, his wife.
provides a unique opportunity A caf with a terrassa in one of
to trace the artists development the courtyards offers
La Ribera and Sant Pere PLACES

from his paintings as a young refreshments, and there is of


boy to the mature works of later course a shop, stuffed full of
years.The early drawings, Picasso-related gifts.
particularly, are fascinating, in
which Picasso still signing Museu Textil i
with his full name, Pablo Ruiz dIndumentaria
Picasso attempted to copy the C/de Montcada 1214 t 933 104 516,
nature paintings in which his w www.museutextil.bcn.es. TuesSat
father specialized. Some works 10am6pm, Sun 10am3pm. e3.50,
in the style of Toulouse-Lautrec, first Sun of the month free; ticket also
like the menu Picasso did for valid for Pedralbes museums, see
Els Quatre Gats tavern in 1900, p.153. The fourteenth-century
reflect his interest in Parisian Palau de Lli contains the
art; while other selected works extensive collections of the citys
are from the famous Blue Textiles and Clothing Museum.
Period (190104) and Pink Selected items, from late
Period (190406), and from his Roman fabrics to 1930s cocktail
Cubist (190720) and dresses, all beautifully presented,
Neoclassical (192025) stages. demonstrate the art and
The large gaps in the main technique behind cloth-making,
collection only underline embroidery, lace and tapestry
Picassos extraordinary changes work.The upper floor
of style and mood, best concentrates on Spanish and
illustrated by the large jump to Catalan designers of the 1970s
1957, a year represented by his to 1990s, with a room devoted
fifty-odd interpretations of to Pedro Rodrguez
Velzquezs masterpiece Las (18951990), the first haut
Meninas.The museums minor couture designer to establish a
works sketches, drawings and studio in Barcelona. Special
prints cover in detail most exhibitions at the museum are
phases of the artists career up well regarded (for which theres

Picasso in Barcelona
Although born in Mlaga, Pablo Picasso (18811973) spent much of his youth
from the age of 14 to 23 in Barcelona. The time Picasso spent here encompassed
the whole of his Blue Period (190104) and provided many of the formative influ-
ences on his art. Not far from the Museu Picasso you can still see many of the build-
ings in which Picasso lived and worked, notably the Escola de Belles Arts de Llotja
(c/Consolat del Mar, near Estaci de Frana), where his father taught drawing and
where Picasso himself absorbed an academic training. The apartments where the
family lived when they first arrived in Barcelona Pg. dIsabel II 4 and c/Reina
Cristina 3, both near the Escola can also be seen, though only from the outside,
while Picassos first real studio (in 1896) was located over on c/de la Plata at no.4.
A few years later, many of his Blue Period works were finished at a studio at c/del
Comer 28. His first public exhibition was in 1901 at Els Quatre Gats tavern
(c/Montsi 3, Barri Gtic; wwww.4gats.com); you can still have a meal there today.

Contents Places
95
Esglsia de
Santa Mara
del Mar
Pl. de Santa Maria
1, at Pg. del Born

PLACES La Ribera and Sant Pere


t 933 102 390.
Daily 9am
1.30pm &
4.308pm; Sun
choral Mass at
1pm. The
church was
begun on the
order of King
Jaume II in
1324, and
finished in
only five years.
Built on what
was the
 MUSEU TEXTIL I DINDUMENTARIA
seashore in the
fourteenth century, Santa Mara
usually a separate charge), while was at the heart of the medieval
the courtyard Textil Caf (see citys maritime and trading
p.97) is one of the nicest in the district (c/Argentera, named
old town. In the associated shop, after the silversmiths who
funky jewellery, silk ties, candles, worked there, still runs from the
kitchen aprons, bags and other church square to the city walls
design-led gifts and trinkets of the Barri Gtic), and it came
abound. to embody the commercial
supremacy of the Crown of
Museu Barbier-Mueller Aragon (of which Barcelona was
C/de Montcada 14 t 933 104 516. capital). Its an exquisite example
TuesSat 10am6pm, Sun 10am3pm. of Catalan-Gothic architecture,
e3, first Sun of the month free. A with a wide nave and high,
fascinating collection of Pre- narrow aisles, and for all its
Columbian art is housed in the restrained exterior decoration is
renovated sixteenth-century still much dearer to the heart of
Palau Nadal, next door to the the average local than the
Textiles and Clothing Museum. cathedral, the only other church
The collection contains some in the city with which it
beautiful pieces of sculpture, compares.The Baroque
pottery, jewellery and textiles trappings were destroyed during
from early Mesoamerican the Civil War, which is probably
cultures from Mexico to Peru. all to the good since the long-
Afterwards, have a browse in the term restoration work has
museum shop, which has a wide concentrated on showing off the
range of ethnic artefacts, from simple spaces of the interior; the
wall hangings and jewellery to stained glass, especially, is
terracotta pots and figurines. beautiful.
And if youre looking for a Behind the church is the
Panama hat, this is the place. square known as Fossar de les
Moreres, which marks the spot

Contents Places
96
cupola, is now
empty, but works
are underway to
refit it as a public
library. Boutiques
La Ribera and Sant Pere PLACES

and craft workshops


hide in the narrow
medieval alleys on
either side of the
passeig carrers
Flassaders and
Vidreria, in
particular, are noted
for clothes, shoes,
jewellery and design
galleries. At night
the Born becomes
one of Barcelonas
biggest bar zones, as
spirited locals
frequent a panoply
of drinking haunts
from old-style
cocktail lounges to
thumping music
bars.
 SANTA MARA DEL MAR

where, following the defeat of Shops


Barcelona on September 11,
1714, Catalan martyrs fighting Atalanta Manufactura
for independence against the Pg. del Born 10 t 932 683 702. Sells
King of Spain, Felipe V, were naturally dyed and painted silk
executed. A red steel scimitar and linen, including lovely
with an eternal flame scarves and wall hangings.
commemorates the fallen.
Casa Gispert
Passeig del Born C/Sombrerers 23 t 933 197 535,
Fronting the church of Santa w www.casagispert.com. Roasters of
Mara del Mar is the fashionable nuts, coffee and spices for over
Passeig del Born, once the site of 150 years a truly delectable
medieval fairs and tournaments store with some tantalizing
and now an avenue lined with a smells.
parade of plane trees shading a
host of classy bars and shops. Cuca Fera
Cafs at the eastern end put out C/Cremat Gran 9 t 932 683 710.
tables in front of the old Mercat Closed Mon am. Original childrens
del Born (187376), once the clothing, from snazzy T-shirts to
biggest of Barcelonas matching outfits.
nineteenth-century city market
halls.The massive rectangular Custo Barcelona
steel and iron construction, Pl. de les Olles 7 t 932 687 893,
topped with a perky little w www.custo-barcelona.com. Where

Contents Places
97
the stars get their T-shirts. w www.vitra.com. Home and
Hugely colourful (and highly workplace furniture specialist,
priced) designer Ts, tops and with stunning chairs by the likes
sweaters for men and women. of Frank O. Gehry, Philippe
Also at c/de Ferran 36 in the Starck, Charles and Ray Eames,

PLACES La Ribera and Sant Pere


Barri Gtic. and Ron Arad.

Czar
Pg. del Born 20 t 933 107 222. A Cafs
galaxy of running shoes, pumps,
bowling shoes and baseball Caf del Born
boots if your Starsky and Pl. Comercial 10 t 932 683 272.
Hutch Adidas SL76s have worn MonThurs & Sun 9am1am, Fri & Sat
out, theyll sell you another pair. 9am3.30am. No gimmicks, no
dodgy art and no fusion food
Daaz just a successful neighbourhood
C/Flassaders 2729 t 933 194 976. caf-bar with wooden floors,
Pascal Frot designs furniture and high ceiling and a simple
lamps and is also responsible for Mediterranean menu. Sunday
the interior of various shops in brunch is popular.
Barcelona (including the very
glam shoe shop opposite). Rosal
Temporary exhibitions are held Pg. del Born 27; no phone. Daily
in his design gallery. 9am2am. The terrassa at the end
of the Born gets the sun all day,
Kitsch making it a popular meeting
Pl. de Montcada 10 t 933 195 768. place, though its also packed on
Known for its papier-mch summer nights.
models matadors, flamenco
dancers, pierrots and other Textil Caf
characters which are all C/de Montcada 1214 t 932 682 598.
unique. Also handmade paper TuesSun 10ammidnight. Set inside
fans. the shady, cobbled medieval
courtyard of the Textile and
Orgens 99.9% Clothing Museum, this serves
C/Vidrieria 68 t 933 107 531. An hummus, tzatziki, quiche, salads,
old stone arch divides the chilli, lasagne and big
building, one side a deli-shop sandwiches all day or theres a
for wine, gourmet items and e9.20 men del dia.
provisions, the other a tavern-
bar for tasting typical Catalan
dishes. Restaurants and
Rafa Teja Atelier tapas bars
C/Santa Maria 18 t 932 377 059. A
browsers delight for gorgeous Arrel del Born
silk scarves, mohair wraps and C/Fusina 5 t 933 199 299,
Chinese-style silk jackets and w www.arreldelborn.com. MonSat
dresses. 14pm & 8.30pmmidnight, Sun
14pm. Lovely, light-filled
Vitra restaurant with a warehouse-style
Pl. Comercial 5 t 932 687 219, interior. Fish is the speciality

Contents Places
98
here, hand-
caught by the
owners uncle,
and if theres a
rice dish on the
La Ribera and Sant Pere PLACES

menu choose it
its always
fantastic. Meals
can easily top
e40, though a
men del dia for
around half this
offers a cheaper
way to enjoy
the assured
cooking.
Dinner
reservations
advised.

Bar Salvador
C/dels Canvis Nous
8 t 933 101 041.
MonFri 9am5pm.
Fillets of fish in
egg batter,
grilled steak
with potato
wedges, huge
plates of
 PASSEIG DEL BORN
escalivada (grilled aubergine,
pepper and onion), or botifarra fizz, tapas and sandwiches, and
(sausage) with haricot beans are thats your lot.
examples from a changing menu
of half a dozen starters and mains Casa Delfin
and a few classic puds. Everything Pg. del Born 36 t 933 195 088.
costs around e5, which is why MonSat 8am5pm; closed Aug. Old-
tables are packed at lunch, but school paper-tablecloth
you shouldnt have to wait long. bar-restaurant that offers a cheap
and cheerful men del dia up
Can Paixano to ten fish and ten meat choices,
C/Reina Cristina 7 t 933 100 839. from grills to stews, topped off
MonSat 9am10.30pm. Unmarked by home-made desserts or fruit.
stand-up bar (next to Bazar Add a coffee and the whole
Internacional) where the only blowout shouldnt top e12.
drink is champagne. Dont go
thinking sophistication it Comer 24
might come in traditional C/Comer 24 t 933 192 102,
champagne saucers (the sort of w www.carlesabellan.com. TuesSat
thing Dean Martin used to stack 1.303.30pm & 8.30pm12.30am;
in a pyramid and then pour closed 2 weeks in Aug. Chef Carles
wine over), but this is a Abellan presents glocal cooking
counter-only joint where theres (ie global + local), dishes from

Contents Places
99
across the world, interpreted just dessert inspired creations
locally by a master of invention. by Jordi Butrn, who assembles
In an oh-so-cool interior, the flavours and textures with the
meal comes tapas-style, mixing skill of a magician.Theres a
flavours and textures with three-course (e21) or five-

PLACES La Ribera and Sant Pere


seeming abandon but to course (e32) seasonally changing
calculated effect (foie gras and pudding menu, with a small
truffle hamburger, shot glasses of selection of savoury mains to
frothy soup, tuna sashimi on pad out the experience.
pizza). Prices are high (around
e60 a head), but this is as good Mar de la Ribera
as contemporary dining in the C/Sombrerers 7 t 933 151 336. Mon
city gets. Reservations advised. 811.30pm, TuesSat 14pm &
811.30pm. A cosy little place
LEconmic serving the best Galician-style
Pl. de Sant Agusti Vell 13 t 933 196 seafood at prices (e510) that
494. MonFri 12.304.30pm; closed encourage large, leisurely meals.
Aug. The beautifully tiled dining Try the mixed fried fish and
room dates back to 1932, and paella, or any of the simple
makes the perfect surroundings steaks and fillets hake, salmon,
for a hearty lunch, served up, as tuna, sole, calamari dressed
the name implies, for a very with oil, garlic and chopped
reasonable price around e9 parsley, accompanied by platters
for a three-course meal and of tasty grilled vegetables.
wine.You may have to wait
under the arches outside for a Mosquito
table to become available. C/dels Carders 46 t 932 687 569.
TuesThurs & Sun 5pm1am, Fri & Sat
Espai Sucre 5pm2.30am. Delicious pan-Asian
C/de la Princesa 53 t 932 681 630, tapas, including Balinese chicken
w www.espaisucre.com. TuesSat wings,Thai noodles and crispy
9pmmidnight; closed Aug. The spinach pakoras. Add friendly
Sugar Space takes the current service, Fair Trade coffee, world
fad for food deconstruction off at music and very reasonable prices
a tangent by serving pretty much for a winning combination.
 MERCAT DEL BORN

Contents Places
100
Salero Senyor Parellada
C/Rec 60 t 933 198 022. MonFri C/Argenteria 37 t 933 105 094. Daily
14pm & 9pmmidnight, Sat 14pm & 8.30pmmidnight. Utterly
9pmmidnight; closed 2 weeks in Aug. gorgeous renovation of an
Mediterranean cuisine with eighteenth-century building has
La Ribera and Sant Pere PLACES

subtle Asian touches, presenting kept the arcaded interior and


delights like an aubergine curry splashed the walls yellow. Food
with coconut or a mee goreng is Catalan through and through
(fried noodle) of the day, with cuttlefish and cod, home-style
most dishes costing e810. Its a cabbage rolls, duck with figs, a
crisp, modern space if white is papillote of beans with herbs
your colour, youll enjoy the served from a long menu that
experience. Its also open from doesnt bother dividing starters
9am Monday to Friday for cakes from mains. Most dishes cost
and sandwiches. Dinner between e6 and e12, while
reservations advised. more than a dozen puds await
those who struggle through.
Santa Maria
C/Comer 17 t 933 151 227, Set Portes
w www.santamania.biz. TuesSat Pg. dIsabel II 14 t 933 192 950 or
1.303.30pm & 8.30pm12.30am. 933 193 033. Daily 1pm1am. The
Paco Guzmns new wave tapas decor in the wood-panelled
bar has a glass-fronted kitchen Seven Doors has barely
turning out taste sensations changed in 150 years and, while
like Catalan sushi, octopus very elegant, its not exclusive.
confit, yucca chips, or quail with The rice dishes are famed and
salsa. Under e40 a head should are fairly reasonably priced
see you right, finishing on a (e1116), but for a full seafood
high note with the famous meal youre looking at around
Dracula for dessert a shot e40 a head.
glass of strawberry and vanilla
cream flavours that sets off Xampanayet
crackles in your head. C/de Montcada 22 t 933 197 003.
 ARTISTS SHOP
TuesSat noon4pm & 6.3011pm,
Sun noon4pm; closed Aug.
Traditional blue-tiled bar doing
a roaring trade in sparkling cava
and cider. Salted anchovies are
the house speciality, but theres
also marinaded tuna, spicy
mussels, sliced meats and cheese.
As is often the way, the drinks
are cheap and the tapas turn out
to be rather pricey, but theres
always a buzz about the place.

Bars
Berimbau
Pg. del Born 17 t 933 195 378. Daily
6pm2.30am. The oldest Brazilian
bar in town, still a great place

Contents Places
101
feel (especially if you can hide
yourself away in the upper
room), while those in the know
come for the wide selection of
rums from around the world.

PLACES La Ribera and Sant Pere


Rosa de Foc
C/del Rec 69 t 933 195 171,
w www.larosadefoc.com. Daily
6pm2.30am. Multicultural space
presenting exhibitions and live
music, plus book launches, poetry
readings and similar events.The
spacious bar is usually quiet
enough for a chat at least, early
on and there are sandwiches
and platters on the menu.
 PALAU DALMASES
Vinya del Senyor
for authentic sounds and killer Pl. Santa Maria 5 t 933 103 379.
cocktails. MonThurs noon1am, Fri & Sat
noon2am, Sun noonmidnight.
Espai Barroc Nook-and-cranny wine bar
Palau Dalmases, c/de Montcada 20 with tables right outside the
t 933 100 673. TuesSat 8pm2am, lovely church of Santa Mara del
Sun 610pm. One of a series of Mar.The wine list runs to novel
handsome mansions along c/de length a score of them
Montcada, Palau Dalmases is available by the glass with
open in the evenings as a rather oysters, smoked salmon and the
grand bar, which could double like to wash it all down.
as a Peter Greenaway film set.
You can sip champagne or
cognac in the refined Clubs
surroundings or, once a week,
enjoy live Baroque and chamber Astin
music (Thurs at 11pm; e18, C/Abaixadors 9 t 933 010 090,
drink included). w www.nitsa.com/astin. ThursSat
10pm3am. Thumping bar-club
Fianna for cutting-edge pop, house,
C/Banys Vells 19 t 933 151 810. techno and other beats. Live
MonSat 7pm2am, Sun 11am8pm. bands and guest DJs feature
Flickering candelabras, parchment regularly theres no point
lampshades, rough plaster walls going until after midnight.
and deep colours set the mood in
this stylish Gothic mansion Suborn
lounge-bar. Relax on cushions C/de Ribera 18 t 933 101 110.
for a drink, or book ahead to eat TuesSun 9.30pm3am. A tapas and
its a popular weekend dinner light meals place in the early
and Sunday brunch spot. evening (the terrassa overlooks
Parc de la Ciutadella), which
Mudanzas transforms itself into a club as
C/Vidrera 15 t 933 191 137. Daily the night wears on the guest
10am3am. Locals like the relaxed DJs spin just about everything.

Contents Places
102

Parc de la Ciutadella
For time out from the old towns historic intrigues and
labyrinthine alleys, retreat to the citys favourite green
Parc de la Ciutadella PLACES

space, Parc de la Ciutadella, on the eastern edge of La


Ribera. It holds a full set of attractions the Catalan
parliament building (not open to the public), plant hous-
es, museums and a zoo though on lazy summer days
theres little incentive to do any more than stroll the
shady garden paths and pilot rowboats across the
placid ornamental lake. The park dates from the demoli-
tion in 1869 of a Bourbon citadel, erected here in the
mid-eighteenth century after Barcelonas resistance
during the War of the Spanish Succession. Ciutadella
was subsequently chosen as the site of the 1888
Universal Exhibition from which period dates a series
of buildings and monuments by the citys pioneering
modernista architects. The parks main gates are on
Passeig de Picasso (a short walk from La Ribera), and
theres also an entrance on Passeig de Pujades (Metro
Arc de Triomf); for direct access to the zoo, use Metro
Ciutadella-Vila Olmpica.

Arc de Triomf scale, yet reinterpreted by its


Pg. Llus Companys. The giant brick modernista architect, Josep
arch at the northern end of Vilaseca i Casanovas, as a bold
Passeig Llus Companys statement of Catalan intent, its
announces the architectural studded with ceramic figures and
splendours to come in the motifs and topped by two pairs
Ciutadella park itself. Roman in of bulbous domes.The reliefs on
 ARC DE TRIOMF
the main facade show the city of
Barcelona welcoming visitors to
the 1888 Universal Exhibition,
which was held in the park to
the south.

Cascada
Parc de la Ciutadella. Park open daily
8amdusk. Perhaps the most
notable of the parks structures is
the monumental fountain in the
northeast corner. It was
designed by Josep Fontser i
Mestrs, the architect chosen to
oversee the conversion of the
former citadel grounds into a
park, and he was assisted by the
young Antoni Gaud, then a

Contents Places
103

C
CARRER DE ALI-BEI
Estaci del Nord 0 200 m
ARC DE TRIOMF
M M C SANCHO
AV INGUDA DE V ILANOVA AV I L A
Arc de Triomf Parc de lEstacio Museu de

C A R R ER D E NA POLIS
del Nord Carrosses

PLACES Parc de la Ciutadella


PASSEIG LLUIS COMPANYS
PASSEIG LLUIS COMPANYS

Fnebres

A
M

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CARRER DE ALMOGAVERS

IA
MARINA

CA RRER D E ZA M O RA
ID
Palau de

R
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Justicia

M
A

D
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CARRER DE B UENAVENTURA MUOZ


CO

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IN
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C AR R ER DE S AR DENYA

CARRER DE LA MARINA
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PASSEIG DE PUJADES

Museu de Cascada
Zoologia
PG DE PICAS S O

Hivernacle

CA RRER DE JOAN DA U STRI A


CARRER DE LLULL

Museu de
Geologia
CARRER DE WELLINGTON

Parc
Umbracle Zoolgic CARRER DE R AMON TURRO

Parc de la
C AR RER DE R AMON TR IAS FAR GAS

Ciutadella

CARRER DE DOCTOR TRUETA

CARRER DE ROSA SENSAT


PA S

COU
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Parlament
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CARRER DE
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Estaci de de Catalunya VILLENA


Parc
Frana C
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CIUTADELLA- VILA O L MPICA


VILA OLIMPICA

ROND M
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LI TO R EL DO C T O R AIGUA DER PA
AL
Parc del Port Olimpic
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Torre Mapfre
IN

Hotel Arts
IT
SP

SE

student: the Baroque 10am6.30pm. e3, first Sun of the


extravagance of the Cascadas month free. The citys zoological
statuary (notably its dragons) is museum presents a rather dry
suggestive of the flamboyant series of displays about Iberian
decoration that was later to fauna, though temporary
become Gauds trademark.The exhibitions occasionally spark
best place to contemplate the more interest.The building,
fountains tiers and swirls is from however, is a different matter
the small open-air caf just to altogether, worth the admission
the south. Here youll also find a fee alone a red-brick, castle-
lake, where for a few euros you like design by Domnech i
can rent a rowboat and paddle Montaner, intended for use as
about among the ducks. the Universal Exhibitions caf-
restaurant. Dubbed the Castell
Museu de Zoologia dels Tres Dragons, it became a
Pg. de Picasso t 933 196 912, centre for modernista arts and
w www.museuzoologia.bcn.es. Tues, crafts, and many of Domnechs
Wed & FriSun 10am2pm, Thurs contemporaries spent time here

Contents Places
104
on the geological bequest of
Francesc Martorell i Pea, who
gave his name to the citys
Geological Museum, which
opened in 1882. In many ways
Parc de la Ciutadella PLACES

its a period piece, with


nineteenth-century cases of
exhibits housed in a classical
pedimented building.There are
rocks and minerals on one side,
and fossils on the other, with
many of the exhibits found in
Catalunya, from fluorescent
rocks to mammoth bones.

Parc Zoolgic
C/de Wellington t 932 256 780,
 MUSEU DE ZOOLOGICA w www.zoobarcelona.com. Daily:
MayAug 9.30am7.30pm; April &
experimenting with new Sept 10am7pm; March & Oct
materials and refining their 10am6pm; NovFeb 10am5pm.
techniques. e12.90. The city zoo takes up
most of the southeastern part of
Hivernacle and Umbracle the Parc de la Ciutadella. Its
Pg. de Picasso. Both open daily hugely popular with families, as
8amdusk. Free. The two unsung there are mini-train and pony
glories of Ciutadella are its plant rides, a petting zoo and daily
houses, arranged either side of dolphin shows alongside the
the Geological Museum.The main animal attractions.These
imposing Umbracle (palm- include the jungle bird aviary,
house) is a handsome structure permanent gorilla exhibition
with a barrelled wood-slat roof and comprehensive collection of
supported by cast-iron pillars, reptiles, while notable
which allows shafts of light to endangered species found at the
play across the assembled palms zoo include the Iberian wolf,
and ferns. Both materials and  ROWBOATS, PARC DE LA CIUTADELLA
concept are echoed in the larger
Hivernacle (conservatory),
whose enclosed greenhouses are
separated by a soaring glass-
roofed terrace. A refined
caf-bar at the Hivernacle (see
p.105) is the best stop in the
park for drinks or a meal.

Museu de Geologia
Pg. de Picasso t 933 196 895,
w www.bcn.es/museuciencies. Tues,
Wed & FriSun 10am2pm, Thurs
10am6.30pm. e3, first Sun of the
month free. The first public
museum in Barcelona was based

Contents Places
105

PLACES Parc de la Ciutadella


 PARC DE LA CIUTADELLA

and big cats such as the Sri on its own cobbled stage,
Lanka leopard, snow leopard complete with ghostly
and the Sumatran tiger. attendants, horses and riders
However, the zoos days here in suspended in frozen animation.
its current form are numbered Used for city funeral processions
the powers that be perhaps from the end of the nineteenth
having finally appreciated the century onwards, most of the
irony of its juxtaposition next to carriages and hearses are
the parliament building, and extravagantly decorated in gilt,
grown weary of explaining to black or white. Old photographs
visiting dignitaries the source of show some of the carriages in
the strong smell pervading the use in the citys streets, while
area.There are advanced plans showcases highlight antique
to move the marine animals to a uniforms, mourning wear and
new coastal zoo and wetlands formal riding gear.
area at the Diagonal Mar
seashore at Bess.
Cafs
Museu de Carrosses
Fnebres Hivernacle
C/Sancho de vila 2 t 934 841 700. Pg. de Picasso t 932 954 017. Daily
MonFri 10am1pm & 46pm, Sat & 10am1am. A quiet, relaxing
Sun 10am1pm. Free. Present terrassa set amongst the palm
yourself at the front desk of the trees inside the nineteenth-
Serveis Funeraris (funerary century glass conservatory. Its a
services) de Barcelona (by the genteel stop for daytime drinks,
blue Banc Sabadell sign) for one fancy tapas or moderately priced
of the citys more esoteric Catalan dining (weekday men
attractions.Youll be escorted del dia e12), with live music and
into the bowels of the building jazz nights a couple of times a
and the lights will be thrown on week.
to reveal a staggering set of 22
funerary carriages, each parked

Contents Places
106

Montjuc
Youll need to reserve at least a day to see Montjuc, the
steep hill and park rising over the city to the southwest. It
Montjuc PLACES

takes its name from the Jewish community that once set-
tled on its slopes, and theres been a castle on the
heights since the mid-seventeenth century. But its as a
cultural leisure park that contemporary Montjuc is posi-
tioned, anchored around the heavyweight art collections
in the Museu Nacional dArt de Catalunya (MNAC). This is
supplemented by works in two other superb galleries,
namely contemporary art in the Caixa Forum and that of
the famous Catalan artist Joan Mir in the Fundaci Joan
Mir. In addition, there are several other minor museums
on the hill plus the substantial open-air collections of the
Poble Espanyol (Spanish Village), quite apart from the
arenas associated with the 1992 Olympics. Metro
Espanya provides easy access to Caixa Forum, Poble
Espanyol and MNAC; the Trasbordador Aeri (cross-har-
bour cable car from Barceloneta) and Funicular de
Montjuc (from Metro Paral.lel) drop you a short walk
from the Fundaci Joan Mir; while the Olympic area can
be reached by escalators behind MNAC.

Plaa dEspanya (and modern escalators) ascend


When Montjuc was chosen as the hill to the Palau Nacional,
the site of the International past water cascades and under the
Exhibition of 1929, its slopes flanking walls, busts and roofline
were laid with gardens, terraces, kiosks of two grand Viennese-
fountains and monumental style pavilions.
buildings. Gateway to the
Exhibition was the vast Plaa Tren Turstic de Montjuc
dEspanya, based on plans by Pl. dEspanya T 934 156 020.
noted architect Josep Puig i Departures every 30min,
Cadalfach.Arranged around a 10am8.30pm. April to mid-June Sat,
huge Neoclassical fountain, the Sun & hols only; mid-June to Oct daily.
square is unlike any other in e3.20. Montjucs summer-season
Barcelona, and a radical departure train-trolley leaves regularly from
from the modernisme so in vogue Plaa dEspanya and runs to all
elsewhere in the contemporary the major sights on the hill,
city. Striking twin towers, 47m including the castle.The return
high, stand at the foot of the trip lasts about an hour and your
imposing Avinguda de la Reina ticket allows you to complete
Maria Cristina, which heads up the full circuit once, getting on
towards Montjuc, the avenue and off where you like.
lined by huge exhibition halls still
used for trade fairs.At the end of Font Mgica
the avenue monumental steps Pl. de Carles Buigas. MaySept

Contents Places
107
ThursSun 8pmmidnight, music starts buildings, whose external
9.30pm; OctApril Fri & Sat only at structure was left untouched
7pm & 8pm. Free. On selected original girders, pillars and
evenings, the fountain at the stanchions, factory brickwork and
foot of the Montjuc steps crenellated walls appear at every

PLACES Montjuc
becomes the centrepiece of an turn.The Casamarona tower,
impressive if slightly kitsch etched in blue and yellow tiling,
sound-and-light show the rises high above the walls, as
sprays and sheets of brightly readily recognizable as the huge
coloured water appear to dance Mir starfish logos emblazoned
to the strains of Holst and Abba. across the building.The centres
celebrated contemporary art
Caixa Forum collection focuses on the period
Avgda. del Marqus de Comillas 68 from the 1980s to the present,
T 934 768 600, w www.fundacio.lacaixa with hundreds of artists
.es. TuesSun 10am8pm. Free. The represented, from Antoni Abad to
former Casamarona textile Rachel Whiteread.Works are
factory (1911) at the foot of shown in partial rotation, along
Montjuc conceals a terrific arts with temporary touring
and cultural centre.The exhibitions, and theres also a
exhibition halls were fashioned library and resource centre, the
from the former factory Mediateca multimedia space,

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Contents Places
108
Poble
Espanyol
Avgda. del
Marqus de
Comillas T 935
Montjuc PLACES

086 330, w www


.poble-espanyol
.com. Mon
9am8pm,
TuesThurs
9am2am, Fri &
Sat 9am4am,
Sun 9am
midnight. e7.
 PAVELL MIES VAN DER ROHE
The Spanish Village a hybrid
regular childrens activities, and a open-air park of reconstructed
400-seat auditorium with a full famous or characteristic Spanish
programme of music, art, poetry buildings is the most
and literary events.The caf is a extraordinary relic of the 1929
nice spot, too an airy converted International Exhibition. Get
space within the old factory to know Spain in one hour is
walls, serving sandwiches, snacks whats promised and its
and lunch. nowhere near as cheesy as you
might think. It works well as a
Pavell Mies van der Rohe crash-course introduction to
Avgda. del Marqus de Comillas T 934 regional architecture
234 016, w www.miesbcn.com. Daily everything is well labelled and at
10am8pm. e3.50. The 1986 least reasonably accurate.The
reconstruction by Catalan echoing main square is lined
architects of the Pavell Mies van with cafs, while the
der Rohe recalls part of the surrounding streets, alleys and
German contribution to the buildings contain around forty
1929 International Exhibition. workshops, where you can see
Originally designed by Mies van engraving, weaving, pottery and
der Rohe, and used as a other crafts. Inevitably, its all
reception room during the one huge shopping experience
Exhibition, its considered a castanets to Lladr porcelain,
major example of modern religious icons to Barcelona
rationalist architecture.The soccer shirts and prices are
pavilion has a startlingly beautiful inflated, but children will love it
conjunction of hard straight lines (and you can let them run free
with watery surfaces, its dark- as theres no traffic). Get to the
green polished onyx alternating village as it opens if you want to
with shining glass. Its open to enjoy it in relatively crowd-free
visitors, but unless theres an circumstances once the tour
exhibition in place (a fairly groups arrive, it becomes a bit
regular occurrence) there is little of a scrum.You could, of course,
to see inside, though you can always come at the other end of
buy postcards and books from the day, when the village
the small shop and debate quite transforms into a vibrant and
how much you want a Mies exciting centre of Barcelona
mousepad or a Less is MoreT- nightlife, its clubs (see p.116)
shirt. among the hippest in the city.

Contents Places
109
Museu Nacional dArt de the best of its kind in the world.
Catalunya (MNAC) Removed from churches in the
Palau Nacional T 936 220 376, Catalan Pyrenees, they are
w www.mnac.es. TuesSat 10am7pm, presented in a reconstruction of
Sun 10am2.30pm. e4.80, first Thurs their original setting, so you can

PLACES Montjuc
of the month free. Catalunyas see their size and where they
national art gallery occupies the would have been placed in the
bulk of the towering Palau church buildings. Full
Nacional, set back on Montjuc explanatory notes (in English)
at the top of the long flight of cover the artistic techniques and
steps from the fountains. Its one iconography of the paintings,
of Spains great museums, which for the most part, have a
combining a medieval art vibrant, raw quality, best
collection of international exemplified by those taken from
renown, as well as impressive churches in the Bo valley.The
holdings of European evolution from the Romanesque
Renaissance and Baroque art, to the Gothic period was marked
and nineteenth- and twentieth- by a move from mural painting
century Catalan art (until the to painting on wood, and the
1940s) everything from the museum contains some
1950s and later is covered by outstanding altarpieces and
MACBA (see p.81). If time is church decoration as well as
limited its recommended that important works of the
you concentrate on the medieval International Gothic or 1400
collection, which is split into style, by artists like Jaume
two main sections, one dedicated Huguet and Llus Dalmau.
to Romanesque art and the In the Renaissance and
other to Gothic periods in Baroque sections, major
which Catalunyas artists were European artists from the
pre-eminent in Spain. fifteenth to eighteenth centuries
The collection of Romanesque are represented, though there are
frescoes in particular is the no real masterpieces. Instead, in a
museums pride and joy, perhaps final flourish, its MNACs
 POBLE ESPANYOL
nineteenth- and twentieth-
century Catalan art collection
that stands out, particularly strong
on modernista and noucentista
painting and sculpture, the two
dominant schools of the period.
Items from MNACs more
specialist collections of Catalan
drawings, engravings, coins and
photographs sometimes appear in
temporary exhibitions on the
lower level (separate entry e4.20,
joint admission with main
museum e6), which change
every two to four months.

Contents Places
110
Museu Etnolgic examining medieval carving or
Pg. Santa Madrona 1622 T 934 246 early industrialization.
402, w www.museuetnologic.bcn.es.
TuesSun 10am2pm. e3, first Sun of Museu dArqueolgia
the month free. The Museu Pg. Santa Madrona 3941 T 934 246
Montjuc PLACES

Etnolgic boasts extensive 577, w www.mac.es. TuesSat


cultural collections from Spain, 9.30am7pm, Sun 10am2.30pm.
Central and South America, e2.40. Montjucs archeological
Asia, Africa, Australia and the collection spans the centuries
Middle East, housed in a series from the Stone Age to the time of
of glass hexagons.The collection the Visigoths, with the Roman
itself is too big to exhibit at any and Greek periods particularly
one time, so the museum well represented. Finds from
displays rotating exhibitions, Catalunyas best-preserved
which usually last for a year or archeological site the Greek
two and focus on a particular remains at Empries on the Costa
subject or geographical area.The Brava are particularly notable,
Spanish collections range across and theres also an interesting
every province in the country, selection of Iberian ceramics from
with exhibitions occasionally around Catalunya and further
honing in on the minutiae of south, including tablets bearing
rural life and work, or inscriptions in an ancient Iberian
 POBLE SEC BALCONIES
script, which is still
indecipherable.

Teatre Grec
Pg. Santa Madrona 38 T 933
161 000, w www.bcn.es/grec.
Centrepiece of Barcelonas
annual summer cultural
Grec festival is this
reproduction of a Greek
theatre cut into a former
quarry on the Montjuc
hillside.The festival starts
in the last week of June
(and runs throughout July
and August), and
incorporates drama, music
and dance at a multitude
of venues around the city
with some of the most
atmospheric works
performed here in the
Greek theatre. Shows and
events feature local
unknowns to international
superstars, and theres
more information (and
ticket bookings) at the
Palau de la Virreina on the
Ramblas (see p.53).

Contents Places
111
La Ciutat del Teatre while the Montjuc funicular
Mercat de les Flors T 934 261 875, (see p.112) has its lower station
w www.mercatflors.com; Teatre Lliure on the southern fringe of the
T 932 289 747, w www.teatrelliure.com; neighbourhood at Metro
Institut del Teatre T 932 273 900, Paral.lel.

PLACES Montjuc
w www.diba.es/iteatre. Downhill
from the Palau Nacional, just to Estadi Olmpic
the east, steps descend the hillside Galeria Olmpica, Avgda. de lEstadi
to the theatre area known as La T 934 260 660, w www.
Ciutat del Teatre (Theatre fundacio-barcelonaolimpica.es.
City), which occupies a corner AprilSept MonFri 10am2pm &
at the back of the old working- 47pm; OctMarch MonFri
class neighbourhood of Poble 10am1pm & 46pm. e2.70. The
Sec.The theatre buildings sit in a 65,000-seater Olympic Stadium
tight huddle off c/de Lleida, with was the venue for the opening
the fringe-style Mercat de les and closing ceremonies of the
Flors once a flower market 1992 Barcelona Olympics.
and progressive Teatre Lliure Theres usually a gate open in
(Free Theatre) occupying the the Neoclassical facade if you
spaghetti-western-style Palau de just want a glimpse of the pitch
lAgricultura premises built for (the citys American football
the 1929 Exhibition. Both have a team, Barcelona Dragons, plays
full programme of theatre and here, as does the other local
dance, while Mercat de les Flors soccer team, Espanyol). Olympics
hosts an annual nonstop two-day fans wont want to miss the
performing arts festival (the stadiums Galeria Olmpica,
Matar de lEspectacle, or which exhibits assorted items
Entertainment Marathon) in from the opening and closing
June or July. ceremonies, and shows videos of
The sleek Institut del Teatre, the Games themselves.
meanwhile, brings together the In front of the stadium a vast
citys major drama and dance terrassa provides one of the finest
schools, and various vantage points in the city. Long
conservatories, libraries and water-fed troughs break the
study centres. concrete and marble expanse,
while the confident, space-age
Poble Sec curve of Santiago Calatravas
The neighbourhood of Poble communications tower
Sec, or dry village (so called dominates the skyline.
because it had no water supply
until the nineteenth century), is Piscines Bernat Picornell
a complete contrast to the Avgda. de lEstadi 3040 T 934 234
landscaped slopes of Montjuc. 041, w www.picornell.com. MonFri
Theres nothing specific to see 7ammidnight, Sat 7am9pm, Sun
here, but the grid of steep streets 7.30am4pm. e8. Remodelled and
is lined with down-to-earth expanded for the Olympics, the
grocery stores, bakeries, old- citys favourite indoor
fashioned bars and good-value swimming pools are open all
restaurants the best eating year, while the outdoor pools
places are listed at the end of are open to the public in
this chapter.The neighbourhood summer only (JuneSept daily
has its own metro station, or its 9am9pm). During the summer
an easy walk from El Raval, Grec festival, the pool hosts a

Contents Places
112
popular film-and-swim session
one of Barcelonas more offbeat
cultural events.

Fundaci Joan Mir


Montjuc PLACES

Parc de Montjuc T 934 439 470,


w www.bcn.fjmiro.es. TuesSat
10am7pm, Thurs 10am9.30pm, Sun
10am2.30pm. e7.20, exhibitions
e3.60. Barcelonas most
adventurous art museum houses
the lifes work of Joan Mir
(18931983), one of the greatest
Catalan artists, who established an
international reputation while
never severing his links with his
homeland. His friend, the
architect Josep-Luis Sert,
designed the impressive white
building set in lovely gardens
overlooking the city, inside which
is a permanent collection of
paintings, graphics, tapestries,
 COMMUNICATIONS TOWER, MONTJUC
sculptures, sketches and notes,
most donated by Mir himself Universal Exhibition of 193637
and covering the period from the same exhibition for which
1914 to 1978.The paintings and Picasso painted Guernica.
drawings in particular are The museum lies just a few
instantly recognizable, among the minutes walk from the Montjuc
chief links between Surrealism funicular and cable-car stations. It
and abstract art. Mir showed a sponsors excellent temporary
childlike delight in colours and exhibitions, film shows, lectures
shapes and developed a free, and childrens theatre.Theres also
highly decorative style youll a library, with books and
notice his designs all over his periodicals on contemporary art,
native city, most notably the a bookshop selling posters, and a
starfish logo of the savings bank, caf-restaurant (lunch 1.303pm,
Caixa de Pensions, and the otherwise drinks, pastries and
pavement mosaic in the middle sandwiches) with outdoor tables
of the Ramblas. But darker works on a pleasant patio you dont
on show reflect other passions, have to pay to get into the
like the fifty black-and-white museum to use this.
lithographs of the Barcelona Series
(193944), which encapsulate the Funicular de Montjuc
turmoil of the post-Civil War Inside Metro Paral.lel, Avgda. del
period.The foundation also Paral.lel T 010, w www.tmb.net. Every
displays works by other artists in 10min daily 9am10pm (OctMarch
homage to Mir, with the single until 8pm). e2.20 return. The
most compelling exhibit being quickest way to reach the lower
Alexander Calders Mercury heights of Montjuc is to take
Fountain, which he built for the the funicular, which departs
Republican pavilion at the Paris from inside the station at Metro

Contents Places
113
Paral.lel and takes a couple of from Barceloneta drops you
minutes to ascend the hill. At close to a precipitous cactus
the upper station you can switch garden which looks out over the
to the Montjuc cable car (see port. Steep steps lead down into
below), or youre only a few flourishing stands of Central and

PLACES Montjuc
minutes walk from the South American, Indian and
Fundaci Joan Mir. African cacti, some over 6m
high. Its a dramatic scene, little
Telefric de Montjuc experienced by most visitors to
Avgda. de Miramar T 010, Montjuc, though the people
w www.tmb.net. June to mid-Sept daily lounging on the steps and in the
11am9pm; mid-Sept to Oct, April & shade of the bigger specimens
May daily 11am7pm; rest of the year suggest its something of an
weekends only 11am7pm. e3.60 open secret among the locals.
one-way, e5 return. The Montjuc
cable car whisks you up to the Castell de Montjuc
castle and back in little four- Carretera de Montjuc T 933 298 613.
person gondolas, dangling Grounds: daily 7am8pm; free. Museu
passengers precariously over the Militar: mid-March to mid-Nov TuesSun
landscaped grounds below. Its 9.30am8pm; mid-Nov to mid-March
an exciting ride and the views, TuesSun 9.30am5pm; e2.50. Built
of course, are stupendous. on seventeenth-century ruins,
the castles outer defences are
Jardins de Mossn Costa i constructed as a series of angular
Llobera concentric perimeters, designed
C/de Miramar. Daily 10amsunset. for artillery deflection, but the
Free. The cross-harbour cable car inner part is startlingly medieval
in appearance, with its straight
 CAF AT FUNDACI JOAN MIR walls and square
shape.The fort
served as a military
base and prison for
many years after the
Civil War, and it was
here that the last
president of the
prewar Catalan
government, Llus
Companys, was
executed on Francos
orders on October
15, 1940.You can
walk along the
ramparts for free, and
theres a little
outdoor caf within
the walls. However,
you have to pay to
go inside the inner
keep, where youll
find Barcelonas
Museu Militar,

Contents Places
114
containing an excellent stocks English-language books,
collection of swords, armour, with cheap prices for current
guns, medals, uniforms, maps and novels, classics, childrens books
photographs. and secondhand. A small caf at
Below the castle walls, a the back serves English tea,
Montjuc PLACES

panoramic pathway the Cam home-made brownies, cakes and


del Mar has been cut from the cookies.
cliff edge, providing
scintillating views, first
across to Port Olmpic
and the northern
beaches and then
southwest as the path
swings around the castle.
The path is just over
1km long and ends at
the back of the castle
battlements, where a
small house (open Sat &
Sun only) sells drinks
and rents out bikes for
use on the surrounding
wooded trails.

Jard Botnic de
Barcelona
C/Dr Font i Quer 2 T 934
264 935, w www
.jardibotanic.bcn.es. Daily:
AprilJune, Sept & Oct
10am5pm; July, Aug &
NovMarch 10am3pm. e3.
Principal among  VIEW FROM CASTELL DE MONTJUC
Montjucs many gardens is the
citys Botanical Garden, laid out
on the slopes behind the Restaurants and
Olympic Stadium. Here, easy-
to-follow paths wind through tapas bars
landscaped zones representing
the flora of the Mediterranean, Bella Napoli
Canary Islands, California, C/Margarit 14 T 934 425 056.
Chile, South Africa and TuesSun 1.304.30pm &
Australia.There are guided tours 8.30pm12.30am. Authentic
every weekend (except Aug) on Neapolitan pizzeria, right down
the half-hour between 11am to the cheery waiters and cheesy
and 1.30pm. pop music.The pizzas the best
in the city come straight from
the depths of a beehive-shaped
Shops oven, or theres a huge range of
pastas, risottos and veal scaloppine,
Elephant Books with almost everything priced
C/Creu dels Molers 12 T 934 430 594, between e8 and e11. Be
w www.lfantbooks.4t.com. Only prepared to wait in line.

Contents Places
115
Can Margarit Tivolis Bistro
C/Concrdia 21 T 934 416 723. C/Magalhaes 35 T 934 414 017,
MonSat evenings only, two sittings at w www.tivolisbistro.com. TuesFri
9pm & 11.30pm; closed Aug. This 8.30pmmidnight, Sat 1.304pm &
rustic restaurant is extremely 8.30pmmidnight; closed mid-Aug to

PLACES Montjuc
popular with people wanting to mid-Sept. Home-style Thai cuisine,
celebrate (every now and again toned down for local tastes, but
the lights will go off as a bottle reasonably priced and run by a
of champagne lit by a sparkler is nice Catalan-Thai couple, who
carried in). Help yourself to also organize cooking classes.A
wine from the barrels at the set meal (e18 per person, drinks
entrance and eat easily for under extra, dishes change monthly) is
e20 the rabbit (conill) with delivered to your table, usually
caramelized onions and herbs is incorporating a starter or two, a
a house speciality; otherwise its red or green curry, a vegetable
country salads, cured meats, and fish dish, and Thai noodles.
sausage and pork dishes.

Quimet i Quimet Bars


C/Poeta Cabanyes 25 T 934 423 142.
TuesSat noon4pm & 711pm, Sun Barcelona Rouge
noon4pm. The neighbourhoods C/Poeta Cabanyes 21 T 934 424 985.
nicest tapas joint, with a TuesSat 11pm3am. Its red all
chalkboard menu of twenty right couldnt be more red, in
wines by the glass and little fact, inside this laid-back
plates of food served from the
 JARD BOTNIC DE BARCELONA
minuscule counter. Order a
roast onion, a marinaded
mushroom or two, stuffed
cherry tomatoes, grilled
aubergine and anchovy-
wrapped olives classy finger
food for the discerning nibbler.

Taverna La Tomaquera
C/Margarit 58; no phone. TuesSat
1.303.45pm & 8.3010.45pm, Sun
1.303.45pm. Sit down in this
chatter-filled tavern and the
bread arrives with a dish of olives
and two quails eggs and there
any delicacy ends, as the sweaty
chefs set to hacking steaks and
chops from great sides and ribs of
meat.The grilled chicken will be
the best youve ever had, and the
entrectes are enormous, while
the locals limber up with pan-
fried snails with chorizo and
tomato. Most main dishes cost
e611.

Contents Places
116
cocktail emporium playing Sala Apolo/Nitsa Club
downtempo jazz, trip-hop and C/Nou de la Rambla 113 T 933 010
other dreamy beats. 090, w www.nitsa.com. Regular live
gigs with the occasional big
Cervecera Jazz name in an old-time ballroom
Montjuc PLACES

C/Margarit 43 T 934 433 259. setting.The techno/electronica


MonSat 7pm2.30am. Grab a stool Nitsa Club kicks off at weekends
at the carved bar and shoot the (Fri & Sat 12.30pm6.30am)
breeze over an imported beer in with guest DJs playing pumping
this amiable neighbourhood bar. sounds.
The music policy embraces
reggae and other mellow Tablao de Carmen
sounds, not just jazz. Avgda. Marqus de Comillas, Poble
Espanyol T 933 256 895,
Tinta Roja w www.tablaodecarmen.com. TuesSun
C/Creu dels Molers 17 T 934 433 243. from 9.30pm. The Poble Espanyols
Wed & Thurs 8pm1.30am, Fri & Sat long-standing flamenco club
8pm2.30am, Sun 611pm. Highly features a variety of styles and
theatrical tango bar with a performers. Prices start at e30
succession of crimson rooms for the show and a drink, rising
dripping with ornamentation to e55 and upwards for the
leading through to a stage at the show plus dinner. Advance
back.Theres cabaret and live reservations required.
music (tango, rumba, Cuban)
often free a couple of nights a Terrazza
week, though special shows are Avgda. Marqus de Comillas, Poble
e10. Espanyol T 934 231 285,
w www.nightsungroup.com. MayOct
ThursSun midnight6am. Open-air
Clubs summer club thats the place to
be. Nonstop dance, house and
Discothque techno, though dont get there
Avgda. Marqus de Comillas, Poble until at least 3am and be
Espanyol T 934 231 285, prepared for the style police.
w www.discothequebcn.com. OctMay
Fri & Sat midnight7am. The winter Torres de vila
destination for dedicated Avgda. Marqus de Comillas, Poble
hedonists. Almost two thousand Espanyol T 934 249 309. ThursSat
cram in here for house, garage, midnight6am. Located inside the
big-name DJs and a whole lot of mock-twelfth-century gateway
style on the main dance floor. in the Spanish Village, this is a
stunning fantasy of a dance club,
with a fabulous panoramic
terrace.

Contents Places
117

Port Olmpic and Poble


Nou

PLACES Port Olmpic and Poble Nou


The main waterfront legacy of the 1992 Olympics was
the Port Olmpic, the sparkling marina development
which lies fifteen minutes walk along the promenade
from Barceloneta. Locals have taken to this in a big
way, making full use of the surrounding beaches and
boardwalks, and descending in force at the weekends
for a leisurely lunch or late drink in one of the scores of
restaurants and bars. Its a pattern beginning to be
repeated further north in the old working-class neigh-
bourhood of Poble Nou, which overlays its traditional
character with the buzz provided by one of Barcelonas
hottest club scenes. There are metro stations at
Ciutadella-Vila Olmpica and Poble Nou, or bus #59
runs from the Ramblas through Barceloneta and out to
the Port Olmpic.

Port Olmpic 154m high.Two wharves contain


From any point along the Passeig the bulk of the action: the Moll
Martim, the soaring twin towers de Mestral has a lower deck by
of the Olympic port impose the marina lined with bars and
themselves upon the skyline, terrassas, while the Moll de Gregal
while a shimmering golden sports a double-decker tier of
mirage above the promenade seafood restaurants.
slowly reveals itself to be a huge
copper fish (courtesy of North Centre Municipal de Vela
American Frank Gehry, architect Moll de Gregal, Port Olmpic t 932 257
of the Bilbao Guggenheim). 940, w www.vela-barcelona.com.
These are the showpiece Office open MonFri 9am9pm, Sat &
manifestations of the huge Sun 9am8pm. Sails often flit
seafront development constructed across the sparkling waters, as
for the 1992 Olympics, which yachties and windsurfers take
incorporated an athletes village full advantage of the blue skies
for the 15,000 competitors and and breezes. If you fancy joining
support staff the apartment them, instruction in
buildings and residential catamaran/laser sailing, kayaking
complexes were converted into and windsurfing is available
permanent housing after the from the Port Olmpics sailing
Games.The port itself site of club. Prices vary considerably,
many of the Olympic watersports but you can expect to pay
events is backed by the citys around e30 for a couple of
two tallest buildings, the Torre hours windsurfing or e180 for
Mapfre and the steel-framed a two-day elementary sailing
Hotel Arts Barcelona, both course.

Contents Places
118

CAFS, TAPAS AND BARS AND CLUBS POBLE NOU


RESTAURANTS Caf Caf 9 M
Agua 12 Kennedy Irish
S ANT M A R T 10
Bestial Sailing Club 7 POBLE
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Cangrejo Loco 8 Oven 5
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Port Olmpic and Poble Nou PLACES

Laie Martim 11 The Loft 4 D


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Rambla de Poble Nou Cementiri de Poble Nou


Pretty, traffic-free, tree-lined Avgda. dIcaria. Daily 8am6pm. This
Rambla de Poble Nou runs inland vast nineteenth-century
through the most attractive part of mausoleum has its tombs set in
nineteenth-century Poble Nou walls 7m high, tended by
(New Village) and is entirely families who have to climb great
modest in character just a run of stepladders to reach the
neighbourhood shops and cafs uppermost tiers.With traffic
frequented by locals out for their noise muted by the high walls,
daily stroll. Stop off for a cold and birdsong accompanying a
drink at El Tio Che (see opposite) stroll around the flower-lined
or lunch at Els Pescadors (p.121) pavements, quiet courtyards and
the metro (yellow line 4) will save chapels, this village of the dead is
you the walk back to Ciutadella, a rare haven of peace in the city.
Barceloneta or the city centre.

Contents Places
119
locals en masse, while
weekends see scratch
games of beach
volleyball and football
played up and down the

PLACES Port Olmpic and Poble Nou


coast. Save your swim
for a pool, though
while the sands are
regularly swept and
replenished, the sea
waters still not as clean
as it could be.

Cafs
Laie Martim
Pg. Martim 35 t 932 247
173, w www.laie.es.
MonSat 8am9.30pm,
Sun 8.30am5pm. This
outpost of the Laie
bookshop caf,
 RAMBLA DE POBLE NOU
attached to the Poliesportiu
Martim sports centre, is a bit of
City beaches a find amidst the chain bars and
A series of city beaches reaches pricey restaurants two minutes
north from the Port Olmpic, from the beach, with a sunny
along a five-kilometre stretch of terrassa, great coffee, tapas and
sandy coast as far the River Bess. sandwiches, and a salad bar and
Split into different named sections light meals at lunch.
(Nova Icria, Bogatell, etc), they
are all furnished with boardwalks, El Tio Che
showers and water fountains, while Rambla Poble Nou 4446 t 933 091
some also feature climbing frames, 872. Daily 10ammidnight; reduced
public art and open-air cafs.The hours in winter. Famous old
merest hint of sun brings out the orxateria in a down-to-earth

Urban renewal
Since the early 1990s the transformation of Poble Nou and its near neighbours has
formed part of an overall scheme to turn the 5km of shoreline from Barceloneta to
the River Bess into a high-tech business, leisure and residential corridor. The exten-
sion of Avinguda Diagonal to the sea, north of Poble Nou, provided the necessary
rebranding, and its as Diagonal Mar that the area hopes to prosper. Development
was further boosted by Barcelonas Universal Forum of Cultures (held from May to
September 2004), a sort of cultural and environmental Expo, which brought new
amenities in its wake, including a convention centre, marina, beach, business district,
university campus and metro and tram link. What attraction this development will
have for tourists in the future is still to be seen, though it cant be denied that its on
a grand scale: the convention centre is the biggest in southern Europe, while the
boast about the main Forum open space the Plaza is that its the second largest
square in the world (150,000 square metres) after Beijings Tiananmen Square.

Contents Places
120
neighbourhood. Orange or wooden bridge) youll find a
lemon granissat (crushed-ice) and pleasant terrace-garden in front
orxata (milky tiger-nut drink) of the beach, great for lunch.
come in various servings up to a Inside, the feel is sharp and
litre, and there are also torrons minimalist, while the cookings
Port Olmpic and Poble Nou PLACES

(almond fudge), hot chocolate, Mediterranean, mainly Italian,


coffee, croissants and sandwiches. with dishes given an original
twist. Rice, pasta and wood-
fired pizzas are in the e913
Restaurants and range, with other dishes up to
e18. At weekends, you can
tapas bars drink at the bar until 2am.

Agua Cangrejo Loco


Pg. Martim 30 t 932 251 272, Moll de Gregal 2930 t 932 210 533.
w www.aguadeltragaluz.com. Daily Daily 1pm1am. The large outdoor
1.304pm & 8.30pmmidnight, Fri & Sat terrace or huge picture windows
until 1am. Depending on your at the Crazy Crab offer
mood (or the weather) you can panoramas of the local coast and
choose the sleek, split-level marina.The fish and shellfish are
dining room or seafront first-rate, with the catch changing
boardwalk garden. Its a daily, but a mixed fried-fish plate
contemporary Mediterranean or broad beans with prawns are
menu rice with quail, asparagus typically Catalan starters. Paella
and mushroom, or grilled tuna can be thoroughly recommended
sofrito (caramelized onions and too, and the service is spot-on.
tomato) but the house Around e30 and upwards.
hamburger figures too, alongside
a short selection of tapas, pastas Escrib
and salads.The prices are pretty Ronda del Litoral 42, Platja Bogatell
fair (meals around e25), so its t 932 210 729. TuesSat 11am1am,
usually busy. Sun 11am4pm; restricted hours in
winter. Glorified beach shack a
Bestial xiringuito in the parlance thats
C/Ramon Trias Fargas 24 t 932 240 enough off the beaten track (a
407, w www.bestialdetragaluz.com. 20min walk along the prom
Daily 1.304pm & 8.30pmmidnight, from the Port Olmpic) to mark
Sat & Sun until 1am. Right beside you out as in the know. A tapas
Frank Gehrys fish (under the tasting plate for two is popular,
 CEMENTIRI DE POBLE NOU
and the paellas
and fideus
(from e12) fly
out of the
kitchen; daily
fish specials are
more like e20,
and theres a
ten percent
terrace
surcharge, but
what the hell,
the food and
views are great.

Contents Places
121
plus live music
(pub rock,
covers, Irish)
Thursday to
Sunday and big-

PLACES Port Olmpic and Poble Nou


screen sports.

Clubs
 VILA OLMPICA HOUSING
The Loft
C/Pamplona 88 t 933 208 200,
Els Pescadors w www.theloftclub.com. Fri & Sat
Pl. Prim 1 t 932 252 018. Daily 14pm 16am. Two dance floors (The
& 8pmmidnight. Considered Loft and Lolita) located in an old
something of a pilgrimage for warehouse that form part of the
fish-lovers (reservations advised), Razzmatazz setup (see below).
a meal here should certainly Resident and international DJs
include a house special fideu offer up a wide range of beats,
(noodles) or a Catalan classic like from techno and electronica to
cod with samfaina (ratatouille) Spanish pop. Its cheaper, or can
though thats only just scratching be free before 2am (otherwise
the surface of a wide-ranging e12), but no one really turns up
menu. If you dont go mad, that early.
youll escape for about e50.The
restaurant is hidden away in a Oven
pretty square in the back alleys C/Ramon Turr 126 t 932 210 602,
of Rambla de Poble Nou. w www.oven.ws. MonFri
1.30pm2am, Sat 6pm2am;
restaurant open MonFri 1.304pm &
Bars 911.30pm, Sat 9pm12.30am.
Fabulously designed bar/club/
Caf Caf restaurant occupying former
Moll de Mestral 30 t 932 210 019. factory premises. Lounge room
MonThurs & Sun 3pm3am, Fri & Sat at the front, restaurant at the
3pm5am. Most of the Port back with a stunning open
Olmpic bars are kitchen, and live music a couple
indistinguishable pumping of nights a week. After midnight
sounds, backdrop video screens the place turns into a club, with
and preening youth but Caf DJs until 2am or later.
Caf is one of the few that dares
to be different. Its more relaxed Razzmatazz
than the others, with a cane- C/dels Almogavers 122 t 932 720
chair colonial feel, and serves 910, w www.salarazzmatazz.com. Fri &
lots more besides coffee. Sat 11pm5am. Razzmatazz hosts
the biggest in-town rock gigs at
Kennedy Irish Sailing Club weekends, after which the Razz
Moll de Mestral 2627 t 932 210 039, Club takes over three clubs in
w www.kennedybcn.com. Daily one spinning indie, rock, pop,
6pm5am. Barcelonas little bit of electro, Sixties and more.
Ireland provides a beer drinkers Entrance to all the bars and
haven between the disco bars. clubs, plus one drink, is usually
Guinness and Murphys on tap, e12.

Contents Places
122

Dreta de lEixample
The gridded nineteenth-century new-town area north of
Plaa de Catalunya is the citys main shopping and busi-
Dreta de lEixample PLACES

ness district. It was designed as part of a revolutionary


urban plan the Eixample in Catalan (Extension or
Widening) that divided districts into regular blocks,
whose characteristic wide streets and shaved corners
survive today. Two parallel avenues, Passeig de Grcia
and Rambla de Catalunya, are the backbone of the
Eixample, with everything to the east known as the
Dreta de lEixample (the right-hand side). Its here,
above all, that the bulk of the citys famous modernista
(Catalan Art Nouveau) buildings are found, whose fanci-
ful flourishes provide some of the most compelling
urban images in Europe. However, any visit might equal-
ly concentrate on the Dretas other undoubted pleasures
from museum and gallery visits to browsing in some
of the citys most stylish shops. Start your exploration
from either Metro Passeig de Grcia or Metro Diagonal.

Casa Calvet more elaborate buildings on


C/de Casp 48. Antoni Gauds Passeig de Grcia. If you want a
earliest commissioned town- closer look inside, youll have to
house building, erected for a book a table in the restaurant
prominent local textile family, (see p.130) that now occupies
dates from 1899 and, though the premises.
fairly conventional in style, the
Baroque inspiration on display Passeig de Grcia
in the sculpted facade and lobby The prominent showy avenue
was to surface again in his later, which runs northwest from

Modernisme
Modernisme, the Catalan offshoot of Art Nouveau, was the expression of a renewed
upsurge in Catalan nationalism in the 1870s. Its most famous architectural exponent
was Antoni Gaud i Cornet (18521926), whose buildings are apparently lunatic
flights of fantasy that at the same time are perfectly functional. His architectural
influences were Moorish and Gothic, while he embellished his work with elements
from the natural world. The imaginative impetus he provided to the movement was
incalculable, inspiring other Catalan architects like Llus Domnech i Montaner
(18501923) perhaps the greatest modernista architect and Josep Puig i
Cadafalch (18671957). It was in Domnechs caf-restaurant at the Parc de la
Ciutadella that a craft workshop was set up after the Universal Exhibition of 1888,
giving Barcelonas modernista architects the opportunity to experiment with ceram-
ic tiles, ironwork, stained glass and decorative stone carving. This combination of
traditional methods with experiments in modern technology was to become the hall-
mark of modernisme a marriage that produced some of the most fantastic and
exciting modern architecture to be found anywhere in the world.

Contents Places
RRER DEL PERILL
123

C STA. TECLA

C.ST. AGUSTI
C DE STA.
TERESA
PTGE. R. BOSCH
1 0 200 m
2
PLAA CARRER DE CORSEGA
Palau JOAN CARLES I
Robert i Casa Comalat
BARS AND CLUBS
M
DIAGONAL
Cervesera Artesana 1
DIAGONAL
Les Gens Que Jaime 9
M
Mond Club 2

PLACES Dreta de lEixample


CARRER DE ROSSELL Palau
3 Muxart Quadras Casa de les
PTGE DE LA CONCEPCI Vinon AVI Punxes
NG
4 UD
Dom La Pedrera AD VERDAGUER
IAG
ON M
PASSEIG DE GRCIA
RAMBLA DE CATALUNYA

CARRER DE PROVENA AL
Groc 5
6 Ictineo
Casa Sculpture
Thomas BD Ediciones
CARRER DE PAU CLARIS

CARRER DE MALLORCA
de Diseo N
PTGE. DELS CAMPS ELISIS
PTGE. DE DOMINGO

7
Mango Palau
Ramon
Joaqun Museu Montaner
8
Berao Egipci CARRER DE VALNCIA
Fundaci Bulevard 9 Casa
Zara Rosa Fundaci Elizalde
PTGE. DE RECTOR

Antoni Mercat de la
Francisco
OLIVERAS
CARRER DE ROGER DE LLRIA

Tpies Armand Concepci


10
Godia
Basi
Colmado CARRER DARAG Casa del Llibre

CARRER DE GIRONA
Quilez Casa Batll
CARRER DEL BRUC

CARRER DE BAILEN
M
MNDEZ VIGO

Casa Amatller PASSEIG DE GRCIA


PTGE. DE

Muxart 11 Museu del Perfum


12
Antonio Mandarina Duck
Casa Lle CARRER DEL CONSELL DE CENT
Mir
Morera M
RAMBLA DE CATALUNYA

GIRONA
PTGE. DE PETMANYER
M
CARRER DE PAU CLARIS

13
CARRER DE LA DIPUTACI
CAFS, TAPAS AND
14 RESTAURANTS
15
ba-ba-reeba 14
PASSEIG DE GRCIA
Bodegueta 6
M M
GRAN VIA DE LES CORTS CATALANES Casa Calvet 19
Ciudad Condal 15
16 East 47 8
Zara Laie Forn de Sant Jaume 11
Mango
17 Japons 3
PG DE GRCIA

Laie Llibreria Caf 17


18 Muscleria 7
CARRER DE CASP Mussol 10, 18
M 19 ONabo de Lugo 5
CATALUNYA M Casa Thai Gardens 13
M
RON Calvet Tragaluz 4
PLAA DE DA D
E SA
Tramoia 16
CATALUNYA NT P
ER E C A R R ER D E AU S IAS MAR C Valor 12

Plaa de Catalunya as far as the Passeig de Grcia from Plaa de


southern reaches of Grcia was Catalunya to Avinguda Diagonal
laid out in its present form in (a 25min stroll) and youll pass
1827. As the Eixample became some of the citys most
the fashionable part of town in extraordinary architecture,
which to live in the nineteenth notably the famous group of
century, the avenue developed as three buildings (casas Lle
a showcase for the talents of Morera, Amatller and Batll)
modernista architects who were known as the Mansana de la
eagerly commissioned by status- Discrdia, or Block of
conscious merchants and Discord, as they show off
businessmen.Walk the length of wildly varying manifestations of

Contents Places
124
the modernista style and spirit.
Further up is Antoni Gauds
iconic apartment building La
Pedrera while, in between,
wrought-iron Art Nouveau
Dreta de lEixample PLACES

street lamps, fashion stores, classy


tapas bars and a designer hotel
or two set the tone for this
resolutely upscale avenue.

Casa Lle Morera


Pg. de Grcia 35. No public access.
Domnech i Montaners Casa
Lle Morera (1906) is the least
extravagant of the buildings in
the so-called Mansana de la
Discrdia and has suffered more
 PASSEIG DE GRCIA
than the others from
improvements wrought by ceramics and exquisite stained
subsequent owners, which glass, while its semicircular jutting
included removing the ground- balconies are quite distinctive.
floor arches and sculptures.A
Loewe leather clothes and Museu del Perfum
accessories store occupies the Pg. de Grcia 39 t 932 160 121,
ground floor, while the main w www.museodelperfume.com.
entrance to the building is MonFri 10.30am1.30pm &
resolutely guarded to prevent 4.308pm, Sat 11am2pm. Free.
more than a peek inside.This is a They may have to turn the
pity because it has a rich Art lights on for you at the back of
Nouveau interior, flush with the Regia perfume store, but
 CASA CALVET
theres no missing the exhibits as
a rather cloying pong exudes
from the room. Its a private
collection of over five thousand
perfume and essence bottles
from Egyptian times onwards,
and there are some exquisite
pieces displayed, including
Turkish filigree-and-crystal ware
and bronze and silver Indian
elephant flasks. More modern
times are represented by scents
made for Brigitte Bardot, Grace
Kelly and Elizabeth Taylor, and if
youre diligent enough to scan
all the shelves you might be able
to track down the perfume
bottle designed by Salvador Dal.

Casa Amatller
Pg. de Grcia 41 t 934 880 139.
MonSat 10am7pm, Sun 10am2pm.
Free. Puig i Cadafalchs striking

Contents Places
125
Casa Amatller (1900) was created on the Block of Discord is the
largely from the bones of an Casa Batll, designed for the
existing building and paid for by industrialist Josep Batll and
Antoni Amatller, a Catalan finished in 1907. Antoni Gaud
chocolate manufacturer.The contrived to create an

PLACES Dreta de lEixample


facade rises in steps to a point, undulating facade here that
studded with coloured ceramic Salvador Dal later compared to
decoration and with heraldic the tranquil waters of a lake.
sculptures over the doors and Theres an animal aspect at work
windows. Inside the hallway the too: the stone facade hangs in
ceramic tiles continue along the folds, like skin and, from below,
walls, while twisted stone the twisted balcony railings
columns are interspersed by resemble malevolent eyes.The
higher part of the facade is less
 MUSEU DEL PERFUM
abstruse and more decorative,
pockmarked with circular
ceramic buttons laid on a bright
mosaic background and finished
with a little tower topped with
a cross. Self-guided audio tours
show you the main floor, patio,
attic and roof chimneys. Its best
to reserve a ticket in advance
(by phone or in person), as this
is a very popular attraction.

Fundaci Antoni Tpies


C/Arag 255 t 934 870 315,
dragon lamps, all of which is w www.fundaciotapies.org. TuesSun
further illuminated by fine 10am8pm. e4.20. Housed in
stained-glass doors and an modernista architect Domnech
interior glass roof.The ground i Montaners first important
floor contains the small Centre building, the Casa Montaner i
del Modernisme, which is Simon (1880), is the definitive
worth calling in to to peruse its collection of the work of
temporary exhibitions on the Catalan abstract artist Antoni
buildings and personalities of the Tpies i Puig.You cant miss
modernista period.Theres also an the foundation building its
excellent selection of postcards capped by Tpies own striking
for sale, while you can buy the sculpture, Nvol i Cadira
useful Ruta del Modernisme ticket (Cloud and Chair: 1990), a
here (see p.188), which includes tangle of glass, wire and
a free tour giving some aluminium. The artist was born
background to the Mansana de in Barcelona in 1923 and was a
la Discrdia buildings. founding member (1948) of the
influential avant-garde Dau al
Casa Batll Set (Die at Seven) grouping
Pg. de Grcia 43 t 932 160 306, of seven artists. After a brief
w www.casabatllo.es. Daily 9am2pm; Surreal phase, Tpies found his
also open some afternoons until 8pm. feet with an abstract style that
Visits to main/ground floors e10, matured in the 1950s, with
attic/roof e10, both e16. Perhaps underlying messages and
the most extraordinary creation themes signalled by the

Contents Places
126
inclusion of everyday objects childrens activities and evening
and symbols on the canvas. He events the reception desk can
has also continually provide details.
experimented with unusual
materials, like oil paint mixed Fundaci Francisco Godia
Dreta de lEixample PLACES

with crushed marble, or C/de Valncia 284 t 932 723 180,


employing sand, cloth or straw w www.fundacionfgodia.org. Daily
in his collages. Temporary except Tues 10am8pm. e4.50, joint
exhibitions focus on selections admission with Museu Egipci e8.50.
of Tpies lifes work, while the Guided tours every Sat & Sun at noon,
foundation also includes a included in admission. The building
collection of works by other next door to the Egyptian
contemporary artists. Museum houses the private art
collection of aesthete and 1950s
Museu Egipci de Barcelona racing driver Francisco Godia.
C/de Valncia 284 t 934 880 188, Harnessing medieval art,
w www.fundclos.com. MonSat ceramics and modern Catalan
10am8pm, Sun 10am2pm. e5.50, art, in many ways it serves as a
joint admission with Fundaci Francisco taster for the huge collections at
Godia e8.50. Guided tours every Sat at Montjuc in MNAC (see p.109),
noon & 6pm, included in admission. while its small size makes it
Barcelonas Egyptian Museum is immediately more accessible. In
an exceptional private collection hushed rooms, where the only
of artefacts from ancient Egypt, sound is the hum of the air
ranging from the earliest conditioning, lie selected
kingdoms to the era of Romanesque carvings, Gothic
Cleopatra. It was founded by altarpieces and modernista and
hotelier Jordi Clos whose Hotel noucentista paintings, combined
Claris, a block away, still has its with a varied selection of
own private museum for guests ceramics from most of the
and displays a remarkable historically important production
gathering of over six hundred centres in Spain. Not all of the
objects, amulets to sarcophagi. collection can be shown at any
The emphasis is on the shape and one time, so pieces are rotated
character of Egyptian society, and on occasion, while special
visitors are given a hugely exhibitions also run in tandem,
detailed English-language to which theres usually no extra
guidebook covering every item. charge.
But the real pleasure here is a
serendipitous wander, turning up La Pedrera
items like a wood-and-leather Pg. de Grcia 92, entrance on
bed of the First and Second c/Provena t 902 400 973,
Dynasties (29202649 BC), some w www.caixacatalunya.es/obrasocial.
examples of cat mummies of the Daily 10am8pm. e7. La Pedrera de Nit
Late Period (715332 BC) or a JuneAug only, Fri & Sat at 9.30pm,
rare figurine of a spoonbill (ibis) e11, advance sales from TelEntrada
representing an Egyptian god. t 902 101 212, w www.telentrada.com.
There are temporary exhibitions, Antoni Gauds weird apartment
a library and a good book and building at the top of Passeig de
gift shop on the lower floor, and Grcia is simply not to be missed
a terrace caf upstairs.The though you can expect queues
museum also hosts a full whenever you visit. Built as the
programme of study sessions, Casa Mil between 1905 and

Contents Places
127
1911 but popularly known as administered by the Fundaci
La Pedrera,the stone quarry Caixa de Catalunya.Through
its rippled facade, curving around the grand main entrance of the
the street corner in one smooth building you can access the
sweep, is said to have been Fundacis first-floor

PLACES Dreta de lEixample


inspired by the mountain of exhibition hall (daily
Montserrat, while the apartments 10am8pm; free; guided visits
themselves, whose balconies of MonFri at 6pm), which hosts
tangled metal drip over the temporary art shows of works
facade, resemble eroded cave by major international artists.
dwellings. Indeed, theres not a
straight line to be seen hence Vinon
the contemporary joke that the Entrances at Pg. de Grcia 96,
new tenants would only be able c/Provena 273 and c/Pau Claris 175
to keep snakes as pets.The self- t 932 156 050, w www.vincon.com.
guided visit includes a trip up to MonSat 10am2pm & 4.308.30pm.
the extraordinary terrace to see Right next to La Pedrera, the
at close quarters the enigmatic Vinon store emerged in the
chimneys, as well as an 1960s as the countrys pre-
informative exhibition about eminent purveyor of furniture
Gauds work displayed under the and design. Pioneered by
brick arches of the attic.El Pis Fernando Amat, known as the
on the buildings fourth floor Spanish Terence Conran, the
recreates the design and style of shop is filled to the brim with
an early twentieth-century stylish and original household
apartment. Perhaps the best items. Apart from checking out
experience of all is La Pedrera de the extraordinary furniture
Nit, when you can enjoy the floor, which gives access to a
rooftop and night-time cityscape terrace with views of La
with a complimentary cava and Pedrera, try and make time for
music advance booking is La Sala Vinon (open same hours
essential. as the store).This is Vinons
La Pedrera is still split into exhibition hall and art gallery,
private apartments and is which puts on shows of new
 PALAU ROBERT design and furniture.

Palau Robert
Pg. de Grcia 107 t 932 384 000,
w www.gencat.net/probert. MonSat
10am7pm, Sun 10am2.30pm. Free.
The information centre for the
region of Catalunya hosts
regularly changing exhibitions
on all matters Catalan, from art
to business. Its also an
important concert venue for
recitals and orchestras, while the
pretty gardens around the back
are a popular meeting point for
the local nannies and their
charges.The office inside is a
handy place to pick up local
touring and accommodation

Contents Places
128
information, and theres a gift century Gothic church and
and bookshop in the former cloister of La Concepci once
carriage courtyard that opens off stood in the old town, part of a
Passeig de Grcia. convent abandoned in the early
nineteenth century and then
Dreta de lEixample PLACES

Casa de les Punxes transferred here brick by brick in


Avgda. Diagonal 416420. No public the 1870s.The adjacent market
access. Architect Puig i was built in 1888, its iron-and-
Cadafalchs largest work, the glass tram-shed structure
soaring Casa Terrades, is more reminiscent of others in the city.
usually known as the Casa de les Flowers and plants a
Punxes (House of Spikes) Concepci speciality spill out
because of its red-tiled turrets of the entrance on c/de Valencia,
and steep gables. Built in 1903 and there are a couple of good
for three sisters, and converted snack bars just inside the market.
from three separate houses
spreading around an entire
corner of a block, the Shops
crenellated structure is almost
northern European in style, Antonio Mir
reminiscent of a Gothic castle. C/Consell de Cent 349 t 934 870 670,
w www.antoniomiro.es; plus Groc,
Rambla de Catalunya 100 t 932 150
180. The showcase for Barcelonas
most innovative designer,Antonio
Mir, especially good for classy
mens suits.There are Mir
designs, shoes and denim for men
and women, plus other labels, at
the Groc outlet.

Armand Basi
Pg. de Grcia 49 t 932 151 421,
w www.armandbasi.com. Colourful
 CASA DE LES PUNXES
mens and womens clothes,
Casa Elizalde jackets and accessories from the
C/de Valencia 302 t 934 880 590. hot Spanish designer.
MonFri 58pm, Sat & Sun 11am2pm
& 58pm. The Dretas nicest BD Ediciones de Diseo
intimate venue hosts regular C/Mallorca 291 t 934 586 909,
exhibitions and film shows about w www.bdlove.com. A design
modernisme and related themes. showroom at the cutting edge
Classical concerts are also held of Barcelona style.The building
here, usually with low-cost or (Casa Thomas) is by Domnech
free entry check the posters at i Montaner, the interior filled
the entrance for details. with the very latest in furniture
and household design.
Mercat de la Concepci
Between c/de Valencia and c/dArag Bulevard Rosa
t 934 575 329, w www.laconcepcio Pg. de Grcia 55, entrances on Rambla
.com. Mon 8am3pm, TuesFri Catalunya, c/de Valencia and c/dArago
8am8pm, Sat 8am4pm; July & Aug t 933 090 650, w www.bulevardrosa
closes at 3pm. The early fifteenth- .com. Barcelonas first shopping

Contents Places
129
arcade features over one dispensers, knives and forks to
hundred shops, specializing in bouncy chairs) at accessible
chic designer gear, shoes and prices.
accessories.
Joaqun Berao

PLACES Dreta de lEixample


Casa del Llibre Rambla de Catalunya 74 t 932 150
Pg. de Grcia 62 t 932 723 840, 091, w www.joaquinberao.com.
w www.casadellibro.com. This is Avant-garde jewellery by a
Barcelonas biggest book Madrid designer in a beautifully
emporium, strong on literature, presented shop.
humanities and travel, with lots
of English titles.Theres a caf at Laie
the back. C/Pau Claris 85 t 933 181 739,
w www.laie.es. The Eixamples
Colmado Quilez favourite bookshop, with an
Rambla de Catalunya 63 t 932 152 excellent selection of humanities
356. A classic Catalan grocery, and literature, and lots of
windows and shelves piled high English-language titles.Take a
with tins, preserves, bottles, jars break in the upstairs caf-
and packets, plus a groaning restaurant (see p.130).
xarcuteria counter.
Mandarina Duck
Dom Pg. de Grcia 44 t 932 720 364.
C/de Provena 249 t 934 871 181, Funky, colourful travel bags,
w www.id-dom.com. Original, backpacks, handbags and other
amusing household and personal carriers.
items (alarm clocks to olive-oil
Mango
 FLOWERS AT MERCAT DE LA CONCEPCI
Pg. de Grcia 810 t 934 121 599 and
Pg. de Grcia 65 t 932 157 530, plus
others, w www.mango.com. Now
available worldwide, Barcelona is
where high-street fashion chain
Mango began (and prices here
are cheaper than in North
America and other European
countries).

Muxart
C/Rossell 230 t 934 881 064, and
Rambla de Catalunya 47 t 934 677
423, w www.muxart.com. Barcelonas
top-class shoe designer, pricey
gems for men and women.

Zara
Pg. de Grcia 16 t 933 187 675,
Rambla de Catalunya 67 t 932 160
868, plus others, w www.zara.com.
Trendy but cheap seasonal
fashion from the Spanish chain,
now with shops in over forty
countries.

Contents Places
130

Restaurants and
tapas bars
Dreta de lEixample PLACES

ba-ba-reeba
Pg. de Grcia 28 t 933 014 302. Daily
7.30am1.30am. A big range of
tapas, from all corners of Spain,
spreads along a twenty-metre
bar in this slick, industrial-sized
operation. It sees a lot of
business- and shopping-traffic,
and caters for all needs from
breakfast to supper time and
beyond.
 HOTEL RITZ DOORMAN

Bodegueta
Cafs Rambla Catalunya 100 t 932 154 894.
Daily 8am2am; closed mornings in
Forn de Sant Jaume Aug. Long-established basement
Rambla de Catalunya 50 t 932 160 bodega with cava by the glass, a
229. MonSat 9am9pm. Glittering serious range of other wines,
windows piled high with and good ham, cheese,
goodies from this classic old anchovies and other tapas to
patisseria and bomboneria soak it all up.
croissants, cakes and sweets,
either to take away or eat at the Casa Calvet
adjacent caf. C/de Casp 48 t 934 124 012.
MonSat 13.30pm & 8.3011.30pm.
Laie Llibreria Caf Dining in Gauds wonderfully
C/Pau Claris 85 t 933 027 310. decorated Casa Calvet is a glam
MonFri 9am1am, Sat 10am1am. night out. A seasonally
Head up the stairs in front of changing, modern Catalan
the bookshop, either to the bar menu runs the gamut from
and mezzanine seating or the simple (shrimp with home-
roomier salon at the back under made pasta and parmesan) to
bamboo matting.The buffet elaborate (duck livers with a
breakfast spread is popular, and balsamic vinegar reduction), and
there are set lunch and dinner the desserts some of which
deals, a la carte dining, and you have to order on arrival
magazines to browse. are an artwork in themselves.
From around e50 plus drinks;
Valor reservations advised.
Rambla de Catalunya 46 t 934 876
246. MonThurs 8.30am1pm & Ciudad Condal
3.3011pm, FriSun 9ammidnight. Rambla de Catalunya 18 t 933 181
Ornate uptown chocolate 997. Daily 7.30am1.30am. Breakfast
specialist, serving the gentle folk sees the bar groan under the
since 1881. A warming hot choc weight of a dozen types of
and xurros (doughnut sticks) crispy baguette sandwich, piled
sends you happily on your way high on platters, supplemented
on a chilly morning. by a cabinet of croissants and

Contents Places
131
pastries, while the tapas Muscleria
selection ranges far and wide: C/Mallorca 290 t 934 589 844.
patatas bravas to octopus. MonFri 14pm & 8.30pmmidnight,
Sat 8.30pm1am. Barcelonas
East 47 mussels specialist, with a score of

PLACES Dreta de lEixample


Hotel Claris, c/Pau Claris 150 t 934 sauces/toppings on pots and
874 647. Daily 14pm & 811.30pm. platters, accompanied by some
The hip hotel features an of the best fries in the city for
equally cutting-edge restaurant, around e10 a serving. Sauted
serving creative Mediterranean clams, octopus or deep-fried
cuisine under the gaze of a line squid are offered as starters, and
of Warhol self-portraits.The there are a few salad-and-snack
beautifully presented dishes mix plates offered, but basically if
flavours with seeming abandon bivalves dont appeal youre in
like salad leaves with crispy the wrong place.
bamboo, or coffee-scented cod
while the fearsomely Mussol
fashionable staff work hard at C/Arag 261 t 934 876 151; branch at
making you feel at home. c/de Casp 19 t 933 017 610. Meals
Expect to spend e70 and daily 1pm1am. Big rustic diners
upwards. Reservations advised. of the type thats all the rage in
the city, known
for their meat
and vegetables
a la brasa, most
of which run
between e5
and e10.
Calots (big
spring onions)
are a spring
speciality, while
snails (cargols)
are on the
 UPTOWN SHOPPING MALL menu all year round. It opens
early for sandwich-and-croissant
Japons breakfasts for city workers.
Ptge. de la Concepci 2 t 934 872
592, w www.grupotragaluz.com ONabo de Lugo
/japones. MonThurs & Sun 1.304pm C/de Pau Claris 169 t 932 153 047.
& 8.30pmmidnight, Fri & Sat MonSat 14pm & 8.30pmmidnight.
1.304pm & 8pm1am. Designer A la carte meals in this
style gunmetal grey interior, renowned Galician seafood
staff-in-black service at restaurant can easily top e50,
moderate prices gives this but the budget-conscious can
minimalist Japanese restaurant enjoy a three-course lunch for a
the edge over its more mere e10 (even less if you eat
traditional rivals.Tick your in the bar), drink included.
choices from the long menu and Thick, meaty broth usually
hand it to the waiter; average figures, and simple standards like
meal cost is around e2025 a botifarra and potatoes for more
head. choice (and for some fish), trade
up to the e16.50 men especial.

Contents Places
132
Thai Gardens croissant to a filling meal. Snack
C/Diputaci 273 t 934 879 898. Daily downstairs on tapas and torrades,
1.304pm & 8.30midnight, until 1am or head upstairs for Catalan
at weekends. Enjoy an excellent brasserie food, including meat,
Thai set lunch (MonFri only), fish and seasonal vegetables
Dreta de lEixample PLACES

or an all-out menu degustaci for straight from the grill.


e30 an English-language
menu smooths the way, offering
things like a creamy prawn and Bars
vegetable curry or fiery lamb
strips cooked in Thai basil. Cervesera Artesana
C/Sant Agusti 14 t 932 379 594,
Tragaluz w www.lacervesera.net. MonSat
Ptge. de la Concepci 5 t 934 870 6pm1am. Catalan brew-pub
621, w www.grupotragaluz.com serving a house IPA (Iberian
/tragaluz. Daily 1.304pm & Pale Ale) and stout, plus a
8.30pmmidnight, until 1pm ThursSat. whole host of other speciality
Attracts beautiful people by the and bottled beers.
score, and the classy
Mediterranean-with-knobs-on Les Gens Que Jaime
cooking, served under a glass C/Valencia 286 t 932 156 879. Daily
roof (tragaluz means skylight), 7pm2.30am. It takes your eyes a
doesnt disappoint. Mains are while to adjust as you descend
from e18, though cheaper eats into the intimate fin-de-sicle
are served downstairs courtesy of interior of red velvet seats,
the Tragarapid menu (dishes dimmed lights and soulful mood
e68, served daily music. As a refuge from the club
1pmmidnight), where things scene, its very pleasant for a
like blinis, fajitas or a club relaxing drink.
sandwich cater for those fresh
off the modernista trail (La
Pedrera is just across the way). Clubs
Tramoia Mond Club
Rambla de Catalunya 15 t 934 123 Sala Cibeles, c/Corsega 363 t 932 720
634. Daily 7.30am1.30am. 910, w www.mondclub.com. Fri
Fashionable multi-space eatery 12.306am. Old ballroom
for anything from a coffee and converted into stylish Friday-
 UPTOWN TAPAS BAR
night club, with a bit of
everything
thrown into the
mix punk,
glam, electronica
and guest DJs.
The pre-club
sister bar is
Mond Bar, in
nearby Grcia
(Pl. del Sol 21;
daily 8.30pm
3am), where
pop will make
us free.

Contents Places
133

Sagrada Famlia and


Glries

PLACES Sagrada Famlia and Glries


The easternmost reaches of the Eixample are dominated
by the one building that is an essential stop on any visit
to Barcelona Antoni Gauds great church of the
Sagrada Famlia. In many ways this has become a kind of
symbol for the city, representing the glory of Catalan
design and endeavour. Most visitors make a special jour-
ney out by metro to see the church and then head
straight back into the centre, but its worth diverting the
few blocks south to the area known as Glries for a fur-
ther set of attractions, including the citys biggest flea
market and Catalunyas flagship national theatre building.
Sagrada Famlia War, Gauds plans and models
C/Mallorca 401, entrance on c/de la were destroyed in 1936 by the
Marina t 932 073 031, w www anarchists, who regarded the
.sagradafamilia.org. Daily: AprilSept church as a conservative religious
9am8pm; OctMarch 9am6pm. e8, relic.Work restarted in the late
or e11 including guided tour. The 1950s amid great controversy,
overpowering church of the with some maintaining that the
Sagrada Famlia (Sacred  SAGRADA FAMLIA
Family) occupies an entire city
block between c/de Mallorca and
c/de Provena the metro drops
you right outside. Begun in 1882
on a modest scale, the 31-year-
old architect Antoni Gaud took
charge of the project two years
later and changed its scale
immediately, seeing in the
Sagrada Famlia an opportunity
to reflect his own deepening
spiritual feelings. He spent the
rest of his life working on the
church and was adapting the
plans ceaselessly right up to his
untimely death. Run over by a
tram on June 7, 1926, his death
was treated as a Catalan national
disaster, and all of Barcelona
turned out for his funeral
procession.
By the time of Gauds death
only one facade of the Sagrada
Famlia was complete. Although
the building survived the Civil

Contents Places
134

BERGNES DE LAS CASAS


CAFS, TAPAS AND N

CARRER DE
RESTAURANTS
Arco Iris 3
Bar Gaud 2 T R A V E S S
Gorra 4 E R A D E G R A C I A
Piazzenza 1
Sagrada Famlia and Glries PLACES

PADILLA
SARDENYA
CARRER DE SANT ANTONI MARIA CLARET
J O A N

PA S S AT G E D A L I O

LLAVALLOLL
GRASSO

M A R I N A
PTGE.DE
Jardins de la

DE
Industria
F L O R

LA INDUS TR IA

CARRER
C AR R ER DE
S A N T

DISCLE SOLER
DEN

PTGE.

PTGE

L A
DE
DE TORRES
D E

N A P O L S

L E P A N T
D E
D E

CARRER

C A R R E R D E C O R S E G A
R O G E R

CARRER

A
C A R R E R
P A S S E I G

D
PTGE. DEL MARINER
PTGE

U
CORADINO 1

G
S I C I L I A

N
D E L R O S S E L L O
D E

C A R R E R

I
V
A
D E

PTGE. DE
C A R R E R

ROGER DE FLOR

D E
PTGE SIMO
SAGRADA FAMILIA
M
C A R R E R

C A R R E R
C A R R E R D E P R O V E N A
M
PLACA PLAA Mercat
Casa Sagrada
D E

DE LA DE de la 2
Macaya SAGRADA Famlia GAUD Sagrada
FA M I L I A
M Famlia
C A R R E R D E M A L L O R C A
PTGE. DE MAIOL
C A R R E R

PTGE. DE FONT

A V 3 PTGE. DE GAIOLA
I N
G U
JOAN

D A C A R R E R D E V A L E N C I A
D I
A G
FLOR

PTGE. DE BOFILL
O N
SANT

A L
CARRER D ARAGO CARRER D ARAGO
DE

NAPOLS
DE

ROGER
PASSEIG

C AR R ER DEL C ONS ELL DE C ENT


CARRER DE LA MARINA
DE

DE

PASSATGE DE TASSO MONUMENTAL


CARRER

CARRER

SARDENYA

4 M M

C A R R E R D E L A D I P U T A C I O

Plaza de
PASSATGE DE BOCABELLA PASSATGE DE PAGES Toros &
PLACA DE Museo
TETUAN Taurno
G R A N V I A D E L E S C O R T S C ATA L A N E S
CARRER DE SICILIA

M
DE

LEPANT

PLAA TETUN
CARRER

S
BE
RI
CARRER DE

C AR R ER DE C AS P
DE
ER
RR
CA
CARRER DE AUSIAS MARC
0 200 m L Auditori

Contents Places
135
CARRER DE SANT CAROLINA
CARRER DE LA TORRE VELEZ

PASSATGE DE FLAUGIER
CARRER DE ROSALIA DE CASTRO
CASANOVAS
PTGE

CARRER DEL TROBADOR


Hospital de la
CASTILLEJOS

Santa Creu

PLACES Sagrada Famlia and Glries


i de Sant Pau
CARRER DE SANT ANTONI MARIA CLARET

PTGE. DE
ST.PAU

SANT QUINTI
CARTAGENA

DE MAIG
PASSATGE DEL

CONCA
PTGE. DE VALLS
NUNA DOS DE MAIG
PTGE.

INDUS TR IA
I

C AR R ER DE LA
D

HOSPITAL DE

CARRER DE
CARRER DE
Hospital M

PASSITAGE DE
DE CATALUNYA
U

SANT PAU

PASSATAGE
de la

ROURA
A

CARRER DEL DOS

PTGE. DE LA
Creu
G

INDEPENCIA
DE
LOS

Roja
E
D

CARRER DE CORSEGA A
CARRER

ER
E R GU
DE

E S PA
PASSATGE DE

F R DE
CORSEGA

L I
PTGE.DE CANADELL D E O AN I VEH
E R L J LL
R R DE CO

CARR
CARRER

C A ER DE

C. DEL
X I F R E
RR ER
CA RR

ER DE
INDEPENDENCIA

CA R
RRE

C. DE JOSEPA MASS
CARRER DE
CA

PISTO

LA M
CARRER DEL ROSSELLO
PLACA

UNTA
DE CAN RE
CAR

R O G E N T

LLAGOSTERA
ROBECOLS

NYA
PTGE. DE CARSI PTGE.DE LON
D E

AU

ANS
E P EZ ATGE
E.D ND PASS LESOLA
PTG RN D AN
G
C A R R E R

HE CARRER DEL DEGA BAHI


C A R R E R D E P R O V E N A
D E
PASSA

PASSATGE DE
C A R R E R
CARRER DE LOS CASTILLEJOS

CENTELLES
CARRER DE CARTAGENA

LA
TGE D
CARRER DE PADILLA

C AR R ER DE MALLOR C A
E VILA

DE

C AR R ER DE B A S S OLS
ET R

CARRER

ENCANTS
M
CARRER DE VALENCIA
CARRER DEL DOS DE MAIG