You are on page 1of 114

Next

About
LivinginPeru.com Introduction

Next
GENERAL DIRECTOR
BACK

Carsten Korch

MANAGING EDITOR
Nathan Paluck Dear reader, traveler and explorer,

HEAD WRITER During more than ve years, the


Dyana M. Gonzales Yupanqui LivinginPeru.com team and I have
explored and experienced the best of
DESIGN Peru, and over the last six months,
Pilar Fernandez-Davila Z. with the help of our dedicated read- portal full of recommendations,
ers, we compiled the best of the best news, articles, tips, events and
COPY EDITOR in our new guide book Do Peru: 101 more, to ensure you have a great
Ross Knutson Things to Experience. experience while traveling and living
in Peru.
PROJECT ASSISTANT
This book, a pleasure to write, is full
Caroll Ortiz
return

of wonderful tips and ideas on what So, Do Peru! And feel free to write
to see, do and try while you are in us your ideas, comments and sug-
PHOTOS
Peru. I'm sure you'll enjoy all of the gestions to editor@livinginperu.com.
See complete credits. A special thank you to all
those who contributed their photographs. things we have included.
Your Sincerely,
OUR THANKS TO Do Peru is a guide book to bring
Diego de la Torre, Simon Leishman, Rony Gonzales, along with you to Peru and also an Carsten Korch
Eduardo Rivera, Andreas Vailakis and PromPeru. introduction to LivinginPeru.com, a Chief Editor
LivinginPeru.com

PS For free weekly updates, sign up


for Peru this Week.
About
Introduction LivinginPeru.com Forward

D o P e r u e Peru will surprise you, as it is diverse not However, archaeological monuments


rienc
g s to expe

Next
10 1 t h in
only in its geography, but in the range of are continuously being discovered all
BACK

experiences it offers. over Peru and especially in the northern


When we travel, some of us seek coast. Only three hours away from Lima
adventure. Others, culture. Some of us is Caral, the oldest civilization of the
are passionate about a certain sport, Americas. With its ve thousand-year-old
such as surng. Yet others dream of pyramids and ceremonial centers, it is
watching birds and butteries, or of considered a goldmine of information
spotting pink dolphins. And most of us about the origins of the Andean Civiliza-
enjoy good food. tion.
Peru offers all of this and more. If you Do Peru: 101 Things to Experience is
are seeking adventure, you can partici- an excellent tool to explore and to use
pate in an Amazon River race, paraglide for some research before you decide to
in the city of Lima or simply walk the come to Peru and once you are already
ancient Inca Trail. There are also plenty of here. I am sure that it will help you nd
outdoor activities to pursue in beautiful the mix of experiences that is right for
natural settings: the Inca Salt Pans, the you.
return

Colca Canyon, the Gocta Waterfalls, I would like to thank Carsten Korch
Tambopata and the Amazon, to name a and LivinginPeru.com for continuously
few. highlighting what is worthy and beautiful
But perhaps Peru is most known for its about Peru. We hope that you will
cultural heritage. Machu Picchu is one of discover it for yourself.
the New Seven Wonders of the World
and Peru's most well known monument. JACQUELINE SAETTONE
Former Director of PromPeru
About
Introduction LivinginPeru.com Contents I
BACK

Next
Adventure CITY SIGHTS FESTIVALS FOOD
4 Paraglide over Miraores 1 Stroll through Historic Lima 13 Give thanks to Pachamama 2 Drink Pisco Sour
7 Surf 6 See Lima by Bus 22 A Festival at 15,000 Feet 5 Eat Ceviche
19 Cuzco Adventures Sports 23 Lima Museum of Art 24 Party at a Pea 10 Drink Chicha Morada
35 Dune Buggy Riding 31 Floating Barrio of Belen 57 Trip on Ayahuasca 17 Drink Coca Tea
49 Sandboarding 38 Arequipa's Relaxing Square 69 Folklore Festival in Puno 20 Peru's Top Beer
52 Kite Surng 40 Mazelike Monastery in Arequipa 71 Easter in Ayacucho 28 Eat Lomo Saltado
55 Amazon River Race 42 Modern Art Galleries in Lima 78 Bull Fighting at Acho 36 Aji de Gallina
93 Bike Trek from Tres Cruces 45 Lima's oldest churches 91 Peru's Horse Shows 41 Drink Peruvian Coffee
46 The Water Park 92 Marinera Dance Festival 47 Tour a Pisco Distillery

ANDEAN
58 The Jungle City 98 The Inca Sun Festival 48 Drink Inka Kola
80 Lima's Cemetery 50 Try Lcuma Ice Cream
81 Bohemia in Barranco 53 Peru's Patriotic Casserole
8 Train through the Andes 82 Erotic Art at Larco Museum 67 Eat Pollo a la brasa
15 Train to Lake Titicaca 83 Classic Lima Bars 74 Eat Papa a la Huancaina
18 The Sacred Valley 85 Afro-Peruvian Culture 76 Lima's Organic Market
68 See the Central Highlands 90 National Museum 84 Tasty Beef Hearts
73 Explore Lake Titicaca 94 The City of Cuzco 87 Drink Fresh Limeade
95 Cuzco Nightlife 99 The Andean Feast
About
Introduction LivinginPeru.com Contents II
BACK

Next
OUTDOORS PREHISPANIC SHOPPING WILDLIFE
11 Inca Salt Pans 3 The Huacas of Lima 33 Party at Asia Beach 27 The Mangroves of Tumbes
14 Try Different Inca Trails 9 Machu Picchu 43 Lima's Cliff Mall 29 Amazon River Boat Trip
16 Cordillera Blanca 26 Lord of Sipan 44 Buy Peru's Best Silver 30 Spotting Pink Dolphins
21 Hike the Inca Trail 32 Fly over the Nazca Lines 79 Shop for Souvenirs in Miraores 56 Visit a Butterfly Farm
25 Mancora 34 The Adobe City of Chan Chan 89 See a Market 59 Tambopata and Manu
39 Cotahuasi Canyon 62 Kuelap 88 Ballestas Islands
51
54
Lunahuan
Visit the Amazon
64
70
Chankillo
Ventanillas of Combayo VOLUNTEERING 101 Birdwatching

61 Baos del Inca 77 Pachacamac 12 Volunteer with Kids in Cuzco


63 Work on Porcn Farm 86 Caral, the Mother Civilization 37 Volunteer and Surf
65 Colca Canyon 96 Koricancha Temple 60 Volunteer in Peru
66 Gocta Waterfalls 97 Choquequirao
72 Trek with Llamas 100 Chavin de Huantar
75 Rock Forest of Huayllay
About See more in See more in
Introduction LivinginPeru.com Lima City Sights

Stroll through historic lima


Downtown Lima is the heart changing of the guard at noon.
and birthplace of Peru as we Then walk across the square
know it. A stroll through its and walk into the cathedral or
colonial streets is a required the Archbishop's Palace. The
activity for visitors. Start at plaza's bronze fountain dates
Jiron de la Union and walk back to the 1600s and can
into the colonial Plaza Mayor, serve as a point of reference
Lima's main square, which is as you wander past the very
home to some of Lima's nest spot that once saw the
colonial architecture and Republic's ag wave for the
classic facades. Walk less rst time, after Jose de San
than a block to the govern- Martin declared Peruvian
return

ment palace courtyard and independence from the Span-


watch the soldiers clad in iards in 1821.
bright uniforms perform the

1 Showing a Friend around Historic Downtown

Touring Lima by Bike: The Center of Lima

Lima Walks Offers a City Tours on Foot


About See more in See more in
Introduction LivinginPeru.com All of Peru Food

VIDEO: Learn to make a pisco sour from a See 100 recipes for pisco cocktails. Read
seasoned Peruvian bartender, who gives acerbic about an attempt to make a sour in the U.S.
political commentary all the while. Find bars for pisco sours in NYC and London.

Drink a Pisco Sour


Or drink a few. And, welcome to Peru! The pisco sour is synonymous with Peruvian
Pisco sour is foamy, delicious, and essential hospitality and and good times. Mix pisco
to Peru's gastronomic and cultural heritage. It sours with friends, and toast with pisco sours
is made by shaking three parts pisco, and one at some of the top bars listed below.
parts of lime juice, sugar syrup and egg white,
then topping with Angostura bitters. This
utmost symbol of Peru is credited to an Ame- The Bar Ingles in the Hotel Country Club
rican barman in the heyday of Lima's down- makes perhaps the best pisco sour in
town scene in the 1920s. Whether it was rst Peru. Bartender Roberto Melendez uses
concocted at Hotel Bolivar or Hotel Maury is the 4-1-1 recipe (see here). Its potent.
Other Lima bars with great pisco sours
return

still debated. (Both are still open: See our


section on classic bars.) include Huaringas, La Calesa (Manuel
The pisco sour is such a source of national Baon 255, San Isidro), Ayahuasca, Capi-
pride that in 2003 the government declared tan Melendez (Alcanfores 199, Miraores).
the rst Saturday of February as Pisco Sour In Cuzco, stop at El Pisquerito and try
Day. You can be sure current president Alan creative cocktails from Hans Hilburg,
Garcia toasting heads of state with a sour. regarded as Peru's best pisco mixologist.

2
Read more about the origins of the pisco
sour.
VIDEO: Colin of the Cocktail Kings
mixes pisco drinks in Lima
About See more in See more in
Introduction LivinginPeru.com Lima Prehispanic

Visit Huaca Pucllana in the heart of Miraores Other huacas are: Puruchuco (Km 4.5 Carretera
(General Borgoo Cuadra 8, 445-8695). English- Central), Huallamarca (Nicolas de Rivera 201,
speaking guides give informative tours. Then San Isidro), and inside the Parque de Leyendas
grab a drink at the on-site gourmet restaurant. (Av. Las Leyendas, Lima).

The Huacas of lima


Huacas are thousand-year- these huacas, which are almost
old structures of delicate always located in the midst of
beauty, once used for religious modern Lima structures.
ceremonies by Peru's coastal In Lima it is not rare to sud-
and Andean cultures. There denly stumble upon vestiges
are several of these weathered of former empires standing
archaeological sites scattered silently amid a backdrop of
throughout Lima, most of blaring horns and bumper-to-
them made from small, sun- bumper trafc. As recently as
dried bricks. one decade ago, local children
There is evidence that the played hide-and-seek and
return

huacas were used as centers soccer in the heart of these


for worship, sacred burial ancient ruins. Fortunately,
sites, and residences of gov- Peru is now making efforts to
erning clergy. Peruvian guarantee that future genera-
archaeologists and scholars tions of Peruvians will stand in
are presently studying awe before these relics as

3
and working to restore their ancestors once did.

Learn more and see photos about Lima's


four major huacas: Huaca Pucllana,
Huaca Puruchuco, Huaca Huallamarca,
Parque de las Leyendas Huaca.
About See more in See more in
Introduction LivinginPeru.com Lima Adventure

Peru Fly is the top company for paragliding and


hand gliding: 99-308-6795. Fly Adventure offers
instruction, as does Aeroextreme.

PAraglide over Limas Coast


Jump off the edge of a cliff coastal winds. You will catch
and into the liberating experi- your reection against Limas
ence of ying. It isn't too skyscrapers (some gliders
far-fetched to say that the reportedly have peeked into
seaside district of Miraores is business meetings) or appear
a lot more captivating when to plummet toward the Pacic
viewed from more than 200 Ocean as the master glider
meters above. Every day performs a classic death
professional paragliders spiral maneuver. All of this
gather near Parque del Amor completely at your whim: No
in Miraores along the bluffs waivers to be signed, and no
Return

of the Pacic Ocean to offer contract other than the hand-


30 minute rides to adventure shake of one of a number of
seekers. Here you will be pro gliders who make the
strapped in as the paraglider Miraores cliffs and the wind
steers through Limas steady their exciting work place.

4 Paragliding over the Pacic Ocean in


Lima
About See more in See more in
Introduction LivinginPeru.com The Coast Food

In Lima, Av. La Mar has exploded with ceviche- Punta Sal, Seor Limon and Cala. And from his
rias. Try La Red, Gaston Acurio's La Mar, Cinco unassuming home in a tougher barrio, Javier
Esquinas, Blumar and Pescados Capitales, Wong serves some of Peru's best ceviche.
(open evenings). Great ceviche can be found at

Ceviche!
(We're not responsible for any maiz offers perfect balance.
mouth watering.) What's there Cevicherias in Peru typically
to say? Ceviche from Peru is serve only during lunch. On
simply the best. It's all about weekend especially, they
the ingredients: freshly caught ll up with large groups of
white sh from the Pacic, family and friends (ceviche is
juice from Peru's incredible also a hangover curative of
limes up North, spicy aji choice). While in Peru eat
pepper, onion and cilantro ceviche, whether at the beach,
some seaweed. The sh is at corner stands selling plates
tossed for just seconds in the for three soles ($1!), or loung-
return

lime juice. Then the garnish- ing at the chic ceviche restau-
ings: native sweet potato, a rants in Lima's Miraores
quarter-cob of maiz gigante, district. The only bad part is,
and maybe some salty fried when away from Peru, you
kernels, maybe seaweed. The won't nd a ceviche that
ceviche is refreshing, spicy compares.

5
and tart; the sweet potato and

Ceviche: Its History and My Husband's


Obsession

How to Eat Ceviche in Lima


About See more in See more in
Introduction LivinginPeru.com Lima City Sights

The two top tour companies are Turibus (446- For alternative tours of the city, see Bike Tours
7575) and Mirabus (476-4213). Websites in of Lima and Lima Walks.
Spanish only.

SEe Lima by bus


Get the best crash course you cemetery, fortresses, historical
could ever have of Lima on a sites and the bohemian neigh-
single road trip. Board a borhood of Barranco, among
double-decker tour bus others.These trips can also
and embark upon a panoramic incorporate a buffet dinner of
tour of Lima's main attrac- "colors and avors," accom-
tions: Colonial architecture, panied by a live music show
plazas, renowned parks and that includes traditional music
other places of interest. The and traditional dancing. Enjoy
tours includes stops at the best of Lima's architec-
Lima's huacas and the ture, rich history and culture
return

world-famous water park and by hopping in and taking part


impressive views of the in one of Lima's fun sightsee-
Pacic Ocean. Other cultural ing experiences.
attractions include illuminated
night tours of Lima's historic
center, the Plaza de Armas, a

6 Take a night food tour of Lima

A drinking tour inaugurates La Semana


del Chilcano
About See more in See more in
Introduction LivinginPeru.com The Coast Adventure

Los Muelles Surf Camp is next to the coveted back surfer house in Lobitos, and the best pizza
Lobitos waves and offers lodging and lessons. in town. Most surfers just show up to Perus top
Surfers reccommend it. Casa de Nacho is a laid points and stay at surf houses, always available.

Surf
The Peruvian coastline runs beginners; El Muelle, which
more than 1,800 miles and boasts quality lefts and is
offers surfers both gentle and usually less crowed; and
roaring waves. Piscinas, a good intermediate
Just 26 miles to the south of option. During Peru's summer
Lima there is Punta Hermosa, between November and
with more than twenty breaks March, an excellent swell from
within a ve mile radius, the north makes great breaks
including the Pico Alto, South and the water is warm enough
America's largest wave. to surf without a wetsuit
Surfers say go north, though. (central and southern Peru
return

Most agree the best place in requires one mostly year-


Peru to surf is Lobitos, a round).
sleepy shing town and now Other tops spots to surf up
an international surf location. north are Pacasmayo,
In Lobitos, here are the four Huanchaco and Chicama,
main spots: The Point, which which boasts the longest left

7
has the most consistent ride; in the world ("pretty sick wave
El Hueco, a good choice for mate," one surfer says).

New Hotels Add Comfort to Chicama


About See more in See more in
Introduction LivinginPeru.com Highlands Andean

Check for times of the next departure at Ferro- from Huancayo to Huancavelica. (The macho
carril Central Andino. Serious train enthusiasts part is because the train leaves or arrives when-
can try cathing a rare ride wit theTrain Macho ever it pleases.)

TRain Through the Andes


The train that goes from Lima covers 26 stations, 61 bridges
to Huancayo boasts the and 67 tunnels as it clanks
second-highest tracks in the and rattles its way through the
world. Seeing Andean passes picturesque highlands. The
from a train is one the high- 206-mile route features
lights of Peru travel that few alpine-high lagoons, plunging
experience partly because cliffs, tunnels and precarious-
the train only runs once a looking bridges. Its a phenom-
month, if that. enally scenic, but sometimes
The spectacular ride takes you frightening ride. No wonder
return

over the Ticlio pass at 15,797 that it is known as one of the


feet and other impressive most captivating train journeys
sections of the Andes. In all it in the world.

8 A Weekend in Huancayo

On Track to Huancayo
About See more in See more in
Introduction LivinginPeru.com Cuzco Prehispanic

Go to Machu Picchu via Peru Rail. Youll catch ing, which is done only by staying overnight in
the train 10 minutes outside Cuzco in Poroy, and Machu Picchu Pueblo and taking the rst bus at
from there the adventure begins. Its recom- 5 a.m. to the citadel. There is one hotel at the
mended to see Machu Picchu early in the morn- base of Machu Picchu: The Sanctuary Lodge.

Machu Picchu
Machu Picchu. You might water fountains intercon-
want to do this one. nected by channels and
The Lost City of the Incas is water-drains perforated in the
the face of Peru to the world. rocks that at one time
(When Peruvians go abroad, carried water from a holy
people may think Peru is in spring to each of the houses in
Africa. But people always this ancient Inca citadel. The
seem to know that Machu Incas also built a road system
Picchu is in Peru.) that led directly to the site.
Machu Picchu is at 2,500 feet Today, more than a thousand
above sea level, nestled in visitors a day visit Machu
return

mist-shrouded highland Picchu. This stunning city truly


jungle.The site is believed to is, as the World Heritage Site
have been built as an estate committee declared in its
for an Inca ruler. It has 140 induction, "an absolute mas-
gorgeous structures of terpiece of architecture and a
tightly-t stone. It also has a unique testimony to the Inca

9
complex irrigation system civilization."
containing a great number of

The discovery of Machu Picchu

Orchids at the Machu Picchu Nature Reserve


About See more in See more in
Introduction LivinginPeru.com All of Peru Food

See this recipe for chicha morada. For a chicha cocktail, try out Ya Que Chicha!,
which uses pisco and cherry brandy.

Drink Chicha Morada


Chicha morada is perhaps the most crossed multinational borders. Now its
beloved beverage in all of Peru. This bottled and powder versions may just be
celebrated refreshment is traditionaly starting to tread new ground in Europe,
prapared by infusing purple corn and America and Asia, but in Peru this tangy
pinneapple with cloves and cinnamon purple soft drink is king (and dont think
for a dash of spice, and nally sweete- about drinking it in from powdered
ned with sugar and lime juice. Chicha mixes).
morada is not only famous for being From children's parties and family
incredibly refreshing, but for being barbecues to restaurants or sunny days
nutritious as well. Full of antioxidants, its at the beach, Peruvians always rely on
return

regular consumption has been proven to this invigorating beverage to deliciously


help control cholesterol and blood complement the rich avors of their
pressure levels. world-famous cuisine.
Although the roots of chicha morada lie Cold and sweet, and uniquely purple,
in the highland valleys of the Andes, in chicha morada is truly one of a kind.
the last decade its consumption has

10 The Healthy Chicha Morada

Exporting Chicha Morada


About See more in See more in
Introduction LivinginPeru.com Cuzco Outdoors

It costs only ve soles to enter and walk around maps found in Exploring Cusco by Peter Frost,
the salt pans. Most Sacred Valley tours stop for a half-day hike from Maras through the salt
here. For the more adventurous, use the pans to Urubamba.

THe Salt pans of Maras


Less than forty miles from sun's heat evaporates
Cuzco, down the main road leaving behind thick layers of
leading to Urubamba, are crystallized salt. This salt is
the amazing Inca Salt Pans or scraped off and transported in
the Salineras de Maras. These mules later to be packaged
three thousand or so cascad- out and sold.
ing ats, plotted along a steep When light reects on these
hillside, have been passed hand carved pools, the effect
down from generation to is stunning, especially in the
generation since the time of late afternoon, when the
the Inca Empire. They are sunset causes the salt pans to
return

owned and operated by local glimmer as if speckled in gold.


families who make a living Watch the miners working
from the tradition of salt ankle-deep among these
extraction. Salt miners take hundreds of shimmering pools
turns channeling water into and be captivated by the
their pools from a nearby salt stunning view.

11
spring, water which the

Colonial Charm in the city of Maras

On the road in Peru: A family trip from


Nazca to Cuzco
About See more in See more in
Introduction LivinginPeru.com Cuzco Volunteering

See Kiya's website. Kiya offers a three-day training course from its
UK ofce prior to departure for Peru.

Kiya Survivors is a UK-


Volunteer with Kids in Cuzco high standards of education
Peruvian charity based in Peru and therapy to some of the
dedicated to providing a new poorest and most remote
beginning for children and areas of Peru where there is
young adults who have special otherwise little or no support.
needs or have been abused or Volunteers can participate in
abandoned. Founded in 2001, Kiya Survivors Volunteer
Kiya Survivors builds and Programs and make a positive
runs educational centers for difference to the lives of
these young people who live disadvantaged young people,
in extreme poverty. Its rst their families, and
location, the Rainbow Centre, communities. Kiya Survivors
return

is opened in the Sacred Valley now supports over 200 chil-


in Cuzco. Since then, founder dren, young people and their
Suzy Butler and her Peruvian families. Each year up to 60
team have opened four more volunteers assist the chil-
centers in the Sacred Valley dren in a variety of activities,
and one the northern coast. such as sports, drama,

12
From these base camps they creative skills, and excursions.
work to provide
Volunteering at Kiya,
a personal story

Fun books by Brits to read before taking off for Peru:


Inca Kola: A Traveller's Tale of Peru and Viva South
America!: A Journey Through a Restless Continent.
About See more in See more in
Introduction LivinginPeru.com All of Peru Festivals

Pour some of your drink out to thank the pacha- Two tour operators that offer visits to Andean
mama (do it outside, though). pachamama ceremonies include SAS Travel and
T.AR.A Tours.

Give thanks to the Pachamama

If while in Peru you are lucky enough to get and would occasionally put the earth to quake
your hands on a delicious cup of chicha according to local legend. Beloved still for
morada and want good things coming your her generosity, to this day many Peruvians
way, then make a toast to the Pachamama. show their reverence to the Pachamama
An Andean tradition that consists of the and the richness she provides by pouring
locals to offering a sip of their chicha, just a bit of their chicha to the ground
beer or pisco to the Pachamama before each before bringing the drink to their lips. Ask
one of their meals. Pachamama, the Quechua any Peruvian, they will tell you that making a
return

word meaning Mother Earth was at one point offering to the Pachamama will do you good.
the goddess most revered by the indigenous
people of the Andes. She was the beloved
goddess of agriculture and fertility that could
Practicing Andean spiritual rituals in
Cuzco and Puno

13
About See more in See more in
Introduction LivinginPeru.com Cuzco Outdoors

Travel agencies in Cuzco are plentiful. One that See waykitrek.net, or visit their Cuzco ofce at
stands out is out Wayki Trek, self-described as Av. Pardo 506 (Paseo de los Hroes). Ask for
under indigenous management. Leo.

Hike a different inca trail

The common assumption is that the classic treks such as Lares Valley, Ausangate, Cho-
trek to Machu Picchu is the one and only Inca quequirao, Salcantay Trek and Santa Teresa
Trail. But actually the original Inca road do not require permits. These alternate
system, once used by the Chasqui messenger routes are also less touristic, yet they offer
runners, has numerous alternative branches. as much beauty as the more iconic classic
Now, due to the popularity of the classic Inca route: wild orchids, hummingbirds, crystalline
Trail, the government of Peru made it manda- brooks and breath taking sunsets over
tory to have a special permit to be allowed to snow capped peaks, just to mention a few
return

trek any portion of this famous trail to Machu things. Some of these trails can take several
Picchu. And there are only a couple hundred days to complete and can be more deman-
of these coveted slotte available each day that ding than the beaten path; but these less
sell out extremetely quickly. But, alternative traveled roads are worth every step of the
way.

14 Choquesuysuy: The Purication Trail

Salkantay, an Alternative Inca Trail in


Peru
About See more in See more in
Introduction LivinginPeru.com Highlands Andean

Starting at US$ 220, cost varies depending on Peru Rail offers rides from
whether traveling on rst class or backpacker Cuzco to Puno.
carriage.

train to Lake titicaca


Experience a spellbinding rail aside in order to allow the train
trip through the Andes. to pass through.) Enjoy a full
The 12-hour voyage through day of comfortable indoor
snow-draped peaks begins its sightseeing thanks to oor-
climb in Cuzco and ends by to-ceiling, panoramic window
the sapphire-blue splendor of panels. The cuisine served on
Lake Titicaca. Contemplate board is deliciously comple-
174 miles of emerald valleys mented by the Andean scen-
dotted with colonial churches ery, making for a unique
and farmers tending to restaurant and bar experience.
their llamas and vicuas. Or The ride nally comes to a
return

see markets so bustling with conclusion in Puno, home to


activity that stands are often Lake Titicaca the highest
improvised right on the tracks. navigable Lake in the world,
(It is not unusual for a train to and as Inca legend has it, the
have to force merchants, birthplace of the sun god Inti.
stands and cattle to move

15 An expat discovers Peru's answer to


the Orient Express experience
About See more in See more in
Introduction LivinginPeru.com Highlands Outdoors

For a serious hike every July, see International A good cafe in Huaraz is Cafe Andino.
Mountain Guides. Churup is a family run hostel in Huaraz.

Hike the cordillera blanca


and is immensely popular with veteran
mountaineers and seasoned adventu-
rers. One well-known hike is the trek
from Cedros Valley to the Ulta Valley
from where you see the famous Alta-
mayo Peak (once voted the Most
Beautiful Mountain in the World
we'll let you decide). Another popular
route is the Santa Cruz trek, usually a
four-day hike that offers views of
return

The Cordillera Blanca mountain range is consi- abundant meadows, wild owers, overnight nature treks in the Huascaran
dered one of the best spots in South America turquoise lakes and white glaciers. The National Park, traversing the Laguna
for climbing and trekking. Located in the mountain range is also an ideal desti- Llaganuco and Laguna 69. With hundreds
Ancash region, the mountain ranges glacier- nation for those interested in mountain of tour operators, restaurants, hotels and
topped peaks sit ominously above the city of biking, hang gliding and rock climbing. bars nearby, it will be hard for visitors to run
Huaraz. The Cordillera has 33 spectacular There are also many popular day and out of things to do.
peaks, with Huascaran reaching 22,200 feet,

16 Trekking Eight Days in Huayhuash,


Part One, Part Two

Climbing Alpamayo
About See more in See more in
Introduction LivinginPeru.com Highlands Food

All cafes in Perus highlands offer mate de coca. Main Plaza. At Caf Literario Varayoc, settle in
In Cuzco, Cafe Trotamundo offers a large mug of with a book and coca tea, Espaderos 142.
steaming coca tea and a great view of Cuzco's In Puno, dont miss the Coca museum.

Drink Coca Leaf Tea


Coca Tea is an ancient Peruvian adding hot water to a handful of
welcome drink and the best coca leaves, traditionally consid-
natural remedy for soroche: ered a sacred plant of great cura-
altitude sickness. When you are tive value. (If you don't have hot
in the breath-taking Andes Moun- water nearby, just chew on a wad
tains not just from the view, of the leaves.) Locals say it has the
but also from the lack of oxygen medicinal power to sooth a number
locals will tell you that a hot of afictions ranging from head-
and relaxing cup of mate de aches to insomnia. And the plant is
coca is the surest way to accli- the base of cocaine, illegal in the
mate. It is the drink of choice for U.S. and the cause of a billion
return

Inca Trail guides.This beloved dollar War on Drugs. But you'll feel
brew of the highlands has an above all that in the thin air of the
earthy avor and a mildly sweet Andean highlands and with a
aftertaste. Make it by simply steaming cup of coca tea.

17 The Coca Leaf and Its Stigmas

Recipe for a Coca Sour (you didnt think


wed forget about pisco, right?)
About See more in See more in
Introduction LivinginPeru.com Cuzco Andean

Sol y Luna is a high-end option in the valley. the valley. Seminario Ceramic Studio is a gal-
Other top places include Casa Andina and Rio lery that holds ceramics workshops.
Sagrado. Equitours does horseback riding in

The sacred valley of cuzco


The Sacred Valley of the Incas continues today, as the area
has been a popular destina- hosts some of the most popu-
tion since the Incan Royalty lar artisan markets in Pisac
took advantage of its mild and Chinchero.
climate to escape the cold of For adventure enthusiasts the
Cuzco centuries ago. With a Valley offers a score of out-
stunning backdrop of blue door options: kayaking and
skies and lofty peaks, rivers rafting, paragliding, mountain
and streams it is easy to see biking, horseback riding and
why. The Sacred Valley is trekking. After a day lled with
home to many Inca ruins, such activities one can unwind at
return

as Pisac and Ollantaytambo, one of the many lodges and


which majestically overlook spas and enjoy the peaceful
their towns below. tranquility of the Valley just like
Trade and commerce have the Incan Royalty centuries
always been important com- ago.
ponents of the Valley and this

18 Don't Miss Out on Ollantaytambo

The Sacred Energy of Sacred Valley:


Reections After a Trip to Cuzco
About See more in See more in
Introduction LivinginPeru.com Cuzco Adventure

Enigma is an adventure tour operator based out


of Cuzco. Gravity Assisted offers mountain
biking tours.

Adventure sports in cuzco


In the last couple of decades Trail trek to Machu Picchu
Cuzco has become a magnet calls for arduous trekking
for adventure sports aciona- and continues to be the
dos in search of an adrenaline region's most sought-after
rush. Every year droves of outdoor activity. There are
adventure-seekers are drawn also plenty of other adventure
to the Peruvian Andes ready sports such as: mountain
for extreme sports, to couple biking, paragliding in the
with Cuzco's rich history and Sacred Valley, bungee jump-
stunning scenery. Cuzco has ing and rock climbing.
scores to offer in outdoor and For those that seek a
return

adventure opportunities for calmer, more relaxing hiking


everyone. The Sacred Valley pace to enjoy the snow-
offers a rst-rate white water capped peaks, blue skies, and
rafting adventure through the varied plant and bird life, there
Urubamba River, with rapids are plenty of walking and
ranging from a calm class II horse back riding paths. All

19
to an intense class IV. Also, things considered, Cuzco is
the legendary four-day Inca Peru's champion of adventure
travel sports.
About See more in See more in
Introduction LivinginPeru.com All of Peru Food

Enjoy a Cusquea everywhere in Peru! Also nd In Lima for business? See the Top 10 bars and
it at ner stores in four continents: North restaurants to do business in Lima.
America, South America, Europe, Asia.

Cusquea, Perus top beer


Of Peruvian beers, per- some of the worlds top hops
haps none provokes such while adhering to the German
strong images of Peru more beer purity law of 1516,
than Cusquea. From its name making it crisp and refreshing
that means from Cuzco, the and bold at the same time. Its
craftsmanship and attention to versatility makes it a wonderful
detail, and its origins in the companion to the many
German immigrants to Peru avors of Perus award win-
who perfected its recipe in the ning cuisine or to enjoy all by
early 1900s, Cusquea is a itself whether traveling through
return

beer that is Peru. The fact that the Andes or back in your
water used in its brewing home country.
comes from glaciers at over
18,000 feet and it incorporates

20 Cusquea wins presence and awards in


the UK

Read about Perus top brands


About See more in See more in
Introduction LivinginPeru.com Cuzco Outdoors

Llama Path is a good company for the hike. the hardest. Do Wayna Picchu: its worth it. The
There is limited space on the trail, so book far in Inca Trail makes the Machu Picchu experience a
advanced. Advice: Acclimatize in Cuzco at least more spiritual event, and makes you feel like you
2 days before; walk around alot. Day 2 and 3 are earned it once arriving.

Hike the inca trail


The Inca Trail was a transpor- caravans and nobility, the
tation system that united the most famous of them were the
entire Inca Empire in pre- Chasquis. The Chasquis were
Columbian South America. trained relay messengers
The network consisted of two stationed at intervals of about
north-south roads, with sev- 20 miles along these roads,
eral road channels that who daily carried correspon-
allowed for efficient dence and fresh food supplies
communications. This trail from the highlands to the
connected towns, agricultural coast and back. Considering
and mining zones as well as the Incas did not make use of
return

sacred ceremonial centers. wheeled transportation and


The most famous of these did not have horses, the Inca
routes is the one that leads to Trails were the most advanced
Machu Picchu. Although the highway system of its time.
prime users of these routes
were imperial soldiers, llama

21 The Inca Trail is no Place for Soft Jour-


nalists

The Famed Inca Trail


About See more in See more in
Introduction LivinginPeru.com Cuzco Festivals

A festival at 15,000 feet


Qoyllur Riti is considered the communities carrying images
largest Andean pilgrimage in of Christ, crosses and offer-
the Peruvian highlands. In ings up to the summit. The
early June this festival gathers more pious recite special
more than 10,000 pilgrims in a prayers throughout the journey
fascinating mix of the region's and perform rituals as soon as
Catholic and pagan traditions. the shrine and surrounding
Although it is in fact a Chris- sacred landmarks rst come
tian ceremony, the main into view. They are joined by
reason for the observance is large troupe of musicians and
to celebrate the integration of dancers dressed in costums
man with nature. The shrine of symbolizing various mythi-
return

Qoyllur Riti is located on a cal characters and perform-


steep mountain, at some ing elaborately choreographed
15,000 feet, and is seldom dances. If you are one of the
visited by anyone other than few tourists to witness the
the actual pilgrims. The ritual intense energy of this ritual, it

22
consists of thousands of will ll you with a sense that
people from nearby rural you have been part of some-
thing very powerful.

Learn about Perus mythical Andean creatures

Qoyllur Riti tries to become green

Andean and Catholic beliefs at Qoyllur Riti


About See more in See more in
Introduction LivinginPeru.com Lima City Sights

The museum is called Museo de Arte de Lima Keep up-to date with exhibits by visiting
and is located inside Parque de la Exposicin at LivinginPeru.com's event calendar.
Paseo Colon 125 in downtown Lima.

Limas Museum of art


The Lima Art Museum pos- ceramics and carvings, as well
sesses the largest and most as furniture and silverware
representative art collection in from the Colonial Period. Its
Peru. Its exhibitions reect the Republican period pieces
wealth and breadth of Peru- interestingly reect the politi-
vian art and culture in the last cal and social changes the
millennium. The museum country was going thorough at
houses more than 3,000 years the time. The history of
of Peruvian art and includes national photography is also
pieces by the most inuential chronicled in an exhibition of
cultures to have ever inhabited photographs from 1842
return

Peru. The Moche, Vicus, when photography was rst


Nazca, Chim, Chancay and introduced to Peru until
Ica-Chinca are some of the today. The museum success-
civilizations whose art pieces fully meets its mission of being
are showcased in its nine a force in the "spreading and
galleries. Its halls also exhibit creation of a living culture."

23
pre-Columbian textiles,

Other Lima museums:


Museo Larco and Museo de la Nacin.
About See more in See more in
Introduction LivinginPeru.com Lima Festivals

The two top peas in Barranco are Pea Del For a night of spectaculer Andean folkloric dan-
Carajo on Catalino Miranda 158 and De Rompe cing, go to Brisas del Titicaca in downtown
y Raja on Manuel Segura 127. Lima. The stage lls up with audience members
dancing between performances.

Party at a pea

For those seeking a vibrant party atmos- and tourists who are attracted to their
phere with live entertainment, dancing and traditional showcases where singers
delicious Peruvian creole food, a Pea is and dancers interact with the audien-
where you need to be. These venues are ce. Whether you are the extroverted,
an intimate way to see live creole music. jump-right-in type or more of a wall-
Famous for being the training grounds of ower, once you have sat down at a
local performers, as legends like Eva Ayllon Pea you will want to join in. From the
and Arturo "Zambo" Cavero began their hollow richness of the Afro-Peruvian
careers in Peas by winning the hearts of cajon to the piercing notes of the
return

local crowds. There are several peas criollo guitar, a Pea shows you the heart
scattered throughout Lima and the best of of a Limeo creole party.
them are in Barranco and Miraores. They
are popular among the young, old, locals

24
Viva La Pea! A Gringos visit to De
Rompe y Raja
About See more in See more in
Introduction LivinginPeru.com The Coast Outdoors

Luxury places include DCO boutique hotel and Top hostels are Loki and Kokopelli (whose new
La Sirena (Av. Piura 326). pool is shown below).

Mancora
Mancora has become one of break from city life. Tourists ll
the trendiest beach towns in the cafs, seafood restau-
Peru, known for its rants, gourmet diners, and
beautiful endless beaches, beachside bars, where local
year-round sun, world-class delicacies include ceviche,
surng, seafood, and vibrant pulpo al olivo (grilled octopus
nightlife. Outdoor activities, with olive sauce) and tuna
parties and luxury pampering saltado (stir-fried tuna). Man-
is the name of the game in cora also has a booming
Mancora. There are hostels international cuisine with
and small restaurants for the avors from Thailand, Mexico,
return

meager budget; hotels and Italy, Japan, and more. At


restaurants for the mid-ranged night, the younger crowds ll
traveler; and luxury beach nightclubs and bars, with
resorts and ne dining. During parties often lasting until
the day, visitors can enjoy the sunrise. Try horseback riding
crystal clear waves and white on the beach, surng, kite-

25
sand beaches that offer a surng, nearby canopy zip line
quiet haven and a peaceful tours. Then go for a massage
or simply relax on the sand.
Luxury spots in Mancora

Quiet beach time at Las Pocitas

A trip to Mancora
About See more in See more in
Introduction LivinginPeru.com The Coast Prehispanic

The Museum is open 9 a.m.-5 p.m., closed on A nearby hotel is San Roque.
Mondays. Address: Av. Juan Pablo Vizcardo and
Av. Guzman, in Lambayeque, 74-28-3978.

tHE LORD OF SIPAN MUSEUM


The tomb of the Moche Lord, commonly
known as the Lord of Sipan, is located near
Huaca Rajada in by the Northern city of Lam-
bayeque. Besides gold relics, jewelry and
other offerings, this high-ranking leader was
buried in full regalia along with eight
guests to accompany him to his afterlife.
It is considered one of the most signicant
archaeological discoveries in Peru because
the main tomb was found intact. This nding
has been invaluable to scholars interested in
and silver adornments, a display of the
return

American prehistory, who now know that the


restoration work itself, and the remains
Moche people were skilled metal workers.
of the Lord and his guests. Visit the
In 2002, local government opened the Royal
warm northern coast of Peru and
Tombs Museum of Sipan, which exhibits the
experience one of the most important
excavation's most important ndings. The
archaeological sites and museums of
highlights of the exhibition are restored gold
recent times.

26 Sipn Museum: In the Style of Ancient


Mochica Temples
About See more in See more in
Introduction LivinginPeru.com The Coast Wildlife

Biosfera Tours is a great local ecological your Budadar is a restuarant-lounge to relax after a
agency. Los Viedos offers tour packages from day in the mangroves.
their hotel in Tumbes.

Mangroves of Tumbes
Tumbes is a tiny coastal depart- You can go horseback riding
ment in northwestern Peru, through dense forests and
so little that it sometimes even surng in white sand beaches
gets bumped from maps of all in the same day. What also
Peru. Despite its small size, makes Tumbes so exceptional
however, the region has a is that this area hardly experi-
wide variety of ecosystems: ences any large-scale tourism.
mangroves, the only coastal Add to that Tumbes' extraor-
tropical forests in Peru, and a dinary marine cuisine
rich and warm sea. Further- including-mouth watering
more, more than half of the spicy shrimp stew and plan-
return

regions territory is covered by tain served in shellsh sauce


protected natural areas: the and you'll experience why
Manglares de Tumbes Tumbes won't stay a hidden
National Sanctuary, the Cerros corner of Peru for much
de Amotape National Park and longer.
the Tumbes Reserve Zone.

27 Reections on Ten Years of Travel: An


Interview with Rafo Len
About See more in See more in
Introduction LivinginPeru.com All of Peru Food

Make it using our recipe here. Top Lima restaurants with great lomo saltado
include Jose Antonio in San Isidro,
El Grifo in Callao, and El Fogn in La Molina.

Eat a Lomo saltado

Lomo saltado is a tasty Peruvian creole dish This culinary gem can be found in some of the
made by stir frying marinated sirloin strips with most unique places around Peru and in a
red onions, tomatoes, as well as spices. Then dazzling assortment of presentations.
you mix with homemade potato fries. You can purchase its sandwich version in a
The beef stir fry as it is affectionately known local street cart on your way to work, or enjoy
by Peruvians, can be served alone, though it is it as the luscious main course in some of
traditionally enjoyed with a side serving of rice Peru's most rened restaurants.
that is usually splashed with the gravy left over Wherever you go in Peru, Lomo Saltado is
return

from sauteing the meat and vegetables. distinguished as an unchallenged national


Although its roots trace back to the city of favorite that has earned its place as the crown
Lima, it is an archetype of the now world jewel of Peruvian creole cuisine.
famous harmonious blends that have been
conceived by the cultural diversity of Peruvian
gastronomy.

28
About See more in See more in
Introduction LivinginPeru.com Amazon Wildlife

Take a trip with Dawn on the Amazon, based Amazon Voyagers (866-725-3255).
out of Iquitos. Other companies include Aqua (See the articles in the Read More section about
Expeditions, Amazon River Expeditions and DIY in a cargo boat.)

Amazon river boat trip


Escape from the rest of the cramped cargo boat, every
world and enter the Peruvian bend in the river will offer
Amazon: a lush and secluded glimpses of wildlife. You will
rain forest, indigenous cultures, nd yourself dodging moths
swaying hammocks and the the size of small birds, or
world's most voluminous river. staring in awe as the pilot
Depart from the banks of the steers the ship through cluster
Ucayali river in Pucallpa and after cluster of ve-foot-long
cruise a 932 miles of the Peru- lily pads. No documentary can
vian Amazon river into Iquitos, capture the beauty of a the
return

a city that can only be reached Peruvian Amazon, home to


by airplane or boat. quiet and haunting sunrises.
Whether aboard a luxurious
cruise ship or embarking on a

29 La Vida Lancha: River Riding in the


Amazon

Five Days on a Cargo Boat Through the


Amazon
About See more in See more in
Introduction LivinginPeru.com Amazon Wildlife

Agencies that will bring you out for pink dolphin


spotting includes: Deln Amazon Cruises,
Aqua Expeditions and Dawn on the Amazon.

Spotting pink dolphins


The rare Amazon river can weigh 200 pounds.
dolphins are not only unusual Equally captivating is to see
because they live in freshwa- them almost glow orange as
ter, but because the males of they navigate the Amazon's
the species are pink as bubble silty waters lightly charged
gum. You can catch a good with traces of drifting vegeta-
glimpse of these rare crea- tion. Freshwater dolphins are
tures during ood season, not endangered, but they're
when their eagerness for the rarely seen by humans. You
larger volumes of sh in the are fortunate if you get to spot
Amazon waters make them them during an Amazon
return

more willing to being around cruise, or (if you dare) go


humans. looking for them on a paddle
Their bending bodies look boat and actually get to catch
graceful swimming effortlessly them at play. The second
through branches and option will give you the rare,
smoothly gliding around knot- but possible, chance of swim-

30
ted trunks, even though some ming in the middle of the
are eight to ten foot long and Amazon surrounded by them.

Our Study of the Amazon Pink Dolphin

And read about Perus Pacic Ocean


dolphins: NGO in Peru sees tourism as
the way to protect dolphins
About See more in See more in
Introduction LivinginPeru.com Amazon City Sights

Floating Barrios of Belen


Built on stilts and rafts on the boats making a living trans-
banks of the Amazon River in porting locals and tourists,
Iquitos, the oating city of and early risers diligently
Belen and its market are both washing their clothes through
fascinating, chaotic and stun- holes in the oors of their
ning. Half marketplace, half homes. And at the top of the
slum, Belen sits on the river hill sits the marketplace whose
bank and in the river itself stalls display an amazing array
its buildings wrap around a hill of colors and scents, display-
that trails out into the wash of ing every kind of known veg-
the Amazon River. Most of the etable, meat and treat. Its
return

houses are wooden raft shan- bizarre "witch medicine"


ties with corrugated tin roofs section displays a huge selec-
that are able to oat with the tion of herbs, potions and
changing height of the river. shamans boasting to have the
Despite it being one of the cure for any possible ailment
poorest neighborhoods in the is particularly interesting.

31
world, all around you can see Belen is a raw glimpse at
kids laughing as they play in or humanity.
near the water, men in shabby

Clown volunteers bring paint and joy to


slums of Belen
About See more in See more in
Introduction LivinginPeru.com The Coast Prehispanic

In the city of Nazca, two luxury options are Casa Two miles from the city lie the impressive net-
Andina and Hotel Cantayo. A budget option is work of underground aqueducts, called Can-
Walkon Inn. talloc. The entrance is only three soles ($1).

Fly over the Nazca Lines


Ever enigmatic, the Nazca long, but tourist pilots make
lines are remarkable ancient sure to circle each one of the
designs etched into the designs to ensure visitors
grounds of Peru's southern have plenty of opportunity to
desert. The ground carvings see and marvel over the
range in intricacy and design. lines. The hundreds of geo-
But the subjects of the more glyphs were constructed by
artistic glyphs are chiey the Nazca culture more than
animal or plant based includ- 1,500 years ago and extend
ing more than 70 stylized more than 190 square miles.
animals, birds, sh and human Ever since their discovery the
return

gures. Although there are town of Nazca has become


several observatories in the one of Peru's top tourist
area, these immense lines that attractiion. Visitors from all
stretch for miles are better over the world travel to see
appreciated from above. these puzzling, magnicent
Most y-over tours are creations of Peru's early

32
approximately half an hour coastal civilizations.

The Nazca Lines: An Incredible Fly-Over

We know who drew these shapes in


Peru's desert. But why?
About See more in See more in
Introduction LivinginPeru.com The Coast Shopping

Asia Boulevard parties hard from January to La 97, La Huaka, Tragaluz and Depeche Order,
April, and is dead for the rest of the year. Top to name a few. Visit LivinginPeru.com come
bars and clubs in the 2010 season were Nikita, December for a preview of hot places in 2011.

Shop And Party at Asia Beach


The beaches of Asia, at the 96 more-low-key kind of crowd.
kilometer mark on the south- The emergence of spas, coun-
ern span of the Peruvian try clubs and family beach
Pan-American Highway, are residences has recently made
among the most exclusive and Asia a more family-friendly
sought after summer get- scene. Asia's southern boule-
aways in all of Peru. Although vard, with its open air restau-
unpopulated for most of the rants, can be the ideal place to
year, during the summer spend family time on warm
months Asia is the central and breezy summer nights
scene of upscale nightlife and its outdoor restaurants and
return

beach house parties. open-air mall atmosphere


It is the favorite hub of young, make it the ideal youth hang
afuent socialites looking to out. Asia has a lot of sun and
party and be seen. In the last a little bit of everything for
couple of years, however, Asia anyone looking to retreat from
has increasingly drawn in a Lima's bustling pace.

33 Get your Party On: Nightlife in Asia


Boulevard, Summer 2010
About See more in See more in
Introduction LivinginPeru.com The Coast Prehispanic

Using the city of Trujillo as your home base, stay 462. Still cant get enough archaeology? Visit a
at Hotel Los Conquistadores off the Plaza de gas station-turned artefacts museum, the
Armas. Eat at El Mochica restaurant, on Bolivar Museo Cassinelli.

Adobe city of Chan chan


The largest Pre-Columbian citadels, workshops, ware-
city in the Americas, and the houses, plazas, a royal cem-
largest adobe city on earth, is etery and pyramid temples.
Chan Chan. Located in La This adobe metropolis was
Libertad, some ve miles west once a chief state in Peru and
of Trujillo and eight hours by very wealthy, with
car from Lima, Chan Chan is a walls adorned with pre-
gorgeous archaeological site cious metals. The Chimu were
in the desert and one of Peru's the engineering society of the
most important. New World: Despite Chan
Once the great capital of the Chan being located in one of
return

Chimu empire, it comprises the of the world's most barren


more than 10,000 structures. coastal deserts, its network of
Some of these were palaces irrigation canals kept elds
and temples with walls rising and gardens ourishing. This
as high as 30 feet tall and massive complex stands as a
decorated with elaborate striking testament to the

34
friezes hundreds of feet long. sophisticated society that
It once contained a dozen once inhabited it.
Chan Chan, the Melting City of the
Chimu

Nearby: Visit the tranquil beach village


of Huanchaco
About See more in See more in
Introduction LivinginPeru.com The Coast Adventure

Desert Adventures offers dune buggy excur- El Huacachinero is a mid-range option. See
sions at a fair price. Backpacker options in Hua- huacachina.com for more information in Eng-
cachina include Sol de Ica, and Carolas del Sur. lish.

Dune Buggy Riding


Located just outside the bus- drawn to the novelty of racing
tling city of Ica, and known as up and down the steep dunes
the Oasis of America, Huaca- at zooming speeds while
china is a tiny village built strapped to four-wheel-drive
around a natural lagoon. dune buggies. Not to mention
Surrounding Huacachina are the incredible landscape views
towering sand dunes standing and colors, especially the
several hundred feet high and desert sunsets visible from the
extending for miles into the rim of these dunes during
horizon. late-afternoon rides.
Because few places in the If youre a fan of roller-
return

world offer sand dunes the coasters and adventure


size of the ones found in sports, dune buggy riding in
Huacachina, it has become Huacachina is essential for a
well known for attracting complete trip to southern
tourists from all over the world Peru.

35 Discovering Desert Lagoons in Icas


desert
About See more in See more in
Introduction LivinginPeru.com The Coast Food

See a recipe for aji de gallina. Two upscale restaurants from all star chef
Gaston Acurio serves aji de gallina. Read about
Panchita and Tanta.

AjI de gallina
Aji de Gallina is a homey vian cooking), and garnished
creole dish that is a true favo- with slices of hard boiled eggs
rite among the locals. The dish and black olives.
consists of shredded chicken
(the gallina part) in a creamy Aji de Gallina is a respected
and mildly spicy yellow- delicacy across the spectrum
pepper cream (the aji part). It of Lima eateries: You'll nd it
has a gravy-like smoothness at ve-star restaurants,
to its consistency. Aji de humble downtown eateries,
Gallina is served as an entre and mobile food stands. The
return

over a bed of sliced boiled best place to have it, though,


potatoes, with a side of rice is at the house of a Peruvian
(doubling on carbs is also a family.
classic in down home Peru-

36
click photo
About See more in See more in
Introduction LivinginPeru.com The Coast Volunteering

Visit the WAVES website to sign up.

Surf and volunteer


WAVES for Development environment. Volunteers work
makes it possible to daily at schools, side-by-side
take your passion for surng with teachers, teaching eng-
and use it to make a differ- lish. If joining, you are encour-
ence. The idea for WAVES aged to develop a personal
Water Adventure Voluntourism project according to your
Education Sustainability strengths and interests. This
originated on the beaches of could be beach clean-ups,
northern Peru in late 2004, guitar lessons, photography,
when a group of local and physical education or art, for
international surfers shared a example. And you don't have
return

desire to help local youth with to be a surfer to participate


little resources enjoy surng. but if you want to learn, that's
Since then, volunteers from an extra perk.
around the world have been
able to help kids in the town of
Lobitos (near Mancora) build

37
condence, stay healthy and
foster meaningful relationships
while enjoying the natural

WAVES: How to surf Peru and volunteer


in the beach town of Lobitos
About See more in See more in
Introduction LivinginPeru.com Arequipa City Sights

Eating and cafe lounging is a must after pizza joints. For top cuisine, try novo-andino
sightseeing in Arequipa. The stone walkway food at Zig-Zag, and Chicha, Gaston Acurios
behind the cathedral offers quaint cafes and restaurant that focuses on regional specialties.

Relax in Arequipas square


Everywhere you look in dral of Arequipa dominates the
Arequipas main square, the entire north side of the square.
Plaza de Armas from Although repeatedly suffered
century-old cathedrals to damages from earthquakes
government buildings and res, its arched walkways,
the color of white shimmers arcaded buildings, and several
back at you. Standing there, cafes and restaurants, one
one is surrounded by veranda can see why it is considered
porches and a lively atmo- one of the most beautiful
sphere. Arequipas still active colonial cathedrals in Peru.
volcano, Misti, provides a Spend a day in the center of
return

striking backdrop to the pris- La Ciudad Blanca and


tine white of the plaza. At discover its well-earned repu-
night, the plaza is equally as tation as a proud colonial city.
stunning with a well-lit ambi-
ence that provides beauty and
tranquility. The impressive

38
twin-towered Basilica Cathe-

Arequipa: The White City

New York Times Frugal Traveler Visits


Arequipa
About See more in See more in
Introduction LivinginPeru.com Arequipa Outdoors

Pablo Tours is an Arequipa-based agency that


leads treks into Cotahuasi.

Cotahuasi canyon

The Cotahuasi Canyon, some 230 miles from tain climbing, hiking, mountain biking and
the city of Arequipa, is the deepest canyon in kayaking.
the Americas. Within the reserve you will also have the
Reaching a maximum depth of 11,597 feet, it opportunity to visit some historical remains of
is more famously known for its steep varia- the Wari and Inca civilizations, several hanging
tions in elevation ranging from 3,280 to 19,990 bridges, rock and cacti forests, medicinal hot
feet. It is also home to the largest and highest springs and exotic ora and fauna.
volcano in Peru, the Coropuna volcano. In Come explore its ravines and be captivated by
1988 the Canyon became a National Tourist its abysses which are attracting adventure
return

Reserve and has since rapidly attracted lovers from all over the world.
adventure travelers. The Cotahuasi River has
several miles of Class IV and Class V white
water rapids, waterfalls and is ideal for moun-
Cotahuasi, the Hidden Jewel of
Arequipa

39 The Deepest Canyon in the World


About See more in See more in
Introduction LivinginPeru.com Arequipa City Sights

Entrance costs 35 soles, a steep price compared See the website. A smaller monastery is the
to other sites in Arequipa, but worth it. Hours are charming La Recolecta, a 20-minute walk from
9-5 p.m., and until 8 p.m. during high seasons. Arequipa's center (Recoleta 117, 54-27-0966).

MazeLike Monastery in AreQuipa


Founded in 1579, the and brought with them their
Santa Catalina Monastery servants, slaves, household
is one of the most comforts and other luxuries.
treasured religious monu- Evidence of the lavish lifestyle
ments in Peru. It is practically enjoyed by these sequestered
a small village of Moorish- nuns can now be seen in the
Christian architecture, con- remaining art collections,
taining 3 cloisters, 6 streets, elegant arched colonnades,
80 housing units, a square, an vegetation-lined passage-
art gallery and a cemetery. ways, fountains, and chapels.
The monastery was founded By 1970, the now poor com-
return

by a rich widow, and over time munity of nuns opened most


attracted a number of women of the monastery as a
of wealth and social standing museum to pay for the instal-
as novices. Although the nuns lation of electricity and running
entered the convent having water and has since become
taken vows of poverty, most one of Arequipa's main tourist

40
of them paid a dowry to enter attractions.

Get thee to a nunnery: The story of


Santa Catalina
About See more in See more in
Introduction LivinginPeru.com Lima Food

Besides for a trip to coffee-growing regions (see Z (Diagonal 598, Miraores), Caf Verde (Santa
Read More section), youll nd Perus best beans Cruz 1305, Miraores) Organika Coffee (C. C.
in only a few cafes in Lima. Go to Arabica Caminos del Inca, Chacarilla), Caf-Bodega
Espresso Bar, (Recavarren 269 Miraores), Caf Santa Isabel (Carabaya 520, Downtown Lima).

Drink peruvian coffee


Recently coffee from Peru has trade varieties, and coffee is
been named some of the best currently Peru's largest
in the world. Tunkimayo coffee agricultural export. Also, Peru
from Puno, for example, recently is the world's leading
won the prestigious Best producer of organic coffee.
Gourmet Specialty Coffee The rare and expensive
international award. We Uchinari gourmet coffee
know you will love it. recently joined the roster of
By now Peruvian coffee Peruvian coffees. Have steam-
has been taken its place ing cup of Peruvian coffee
return

in the echelon of the world's with a late afternoon lunch,


top coffee-producing nations. and treat your palate to the
Peru is a top producer of fair wonderful aroma and depth of
avor you will nd in Peru

41 Peruvian Coffee: The Story of a Farmer


from Cuzco

Discover the best coffee in Peru: Travel


to the central jungle
About See more in See more in
Introduction LivinginPeru.com Lima City Sights

Art Galleries in Lima


The economy isn't the only thing Go there
expanding in Peru. The art scene in
Lima is healthier than ever, as Peru- Lucia de la Puente, Galeria de Arte
vian talent opts to stay in their capital Paseo Saenz Pea 206 A, Barranco
and foreign artists are attracted to the
buzz. See a list of galleries to visit in Pedro de Osma Gallery
the next column. We'll highlight one of Avenida Pedro de Osma 423, Barranco
the top galleries in Barranco: Galleria
Lucia de la Puente (see pictures on Enlace Arte Contemporneo
left). Since its establishment in 1995, it Avenida Pardo y Aliaga 676, Miraores
has dedicated itself to the promotion
of national artists. It is housed in a Vertice Galeria de Arte
Plascencia 350, San Isidro
return

beautiful restored mansion, where it


shows bold exhibitions of photogra-
phy, paintings, sculptures and digital Artco Galeria de Arte
art. Peru is not just Prehispanic arte- Rouad y Paz Soldan 325, San Isidro
facts: Enjoy the vibrant modern art
scene while in Lima.
Galeria Indigo
Av. El Bosque 260, San Isidro

42 Bruno Gallery
Calle Francia 565 B, Miraores
About See more in See more in
Introduction LivinginPeru.com Lima Shopping

Larcomar has a complete listing of stores and


services on their website, in English.

mall Time on Limas Bluffs


With a stunning view of the theater. And ever-present is
Pacic, Larcomar is a multi- the panoramic view.
storied, open air shopping You will see families eating ice
center built into the side cream, teenagers making a
of the ocean's bluffs. Thousands beeline to Bembo's (Peru's
of visitors an eclectic mix of best hamburger joint) and
locals, tourists, young and old older couples admiring the
alike are attracted to this sunset while enjoying a cup of
icon of modern Lima. There is coffee among friends. Larco-
always something to do in mar is the place to enjoy
return

Larcomar: There is the Peru- modern day comforts,


vian Museum of Gold, high- and see and be seen.
end restaurants, fast food
joints, fashion boutiques, a
bowling alley and a movie

43 Top 10 Places to Meet Expats in Lima


About See more in See more in
Introduction LivinginPeru.com All of Peru Shopping

See store locations on Ilaris website. Other top stores selling silver include Kolke
Peru, CMC By Camusso, Mili Blume, and
stores along Avenida La Paz in Miraores.

Shop for Silver


Ilaria Jewelry is one of the guished for their use of Peruvian
largest producers and distribu- silver, stone, and natural
tors of top quality Peruvian silver elements. Their secret to suc-
jewelry and art. cess seems to lie in their use of
It was founded by Florentine silversmithing techniques that
artist Ilaria Ciabatti (shown here date back as far as the times of
on far left) who became fascina- the Inca empire.
ted with Peruvian silverwork and
viceroyal history since the day Furthermore, their works are the
she rst set foot on Peruvian result of collaboration by a team
soil. comprised of one hundred local
return

artisans, silversmiths, stonecut-


Since its inauguration, Ilaria has ters and wood carvers. Just
established itself as a driving catch a glimmer of Ilaria's crea-
force in the rebirth of Peruvian tions, and you will understand
silversmithing. the true meaning of Peruvian
All of Ilaria's pieces are distin- craftmanship.

44 Lima Fashion: Ilaria and Michelle Belau


present fall collections

Peru: Top silver producer, but what


about adding value?
About See more in See more in
Introduction LivinginPeru.com Lima City Sights

The San Francisco Museum is on Plaza San Moquegua, and Iglesia de San Pedro on Azn-
Francisco, between Jiron Ancash and Lampa in garo and Ucayali. To dwell on the evils commit-
Downtown Lima. Also worth seeing are the Igle- ted by the church, visit the Museum of the
sia de Jesus, Maria y Jose on Camana and Inquisition on Plaza Bolivar (Jiron Junin 548).

Visit Limas Oldest Churches

The Iglesia de San Francisco, built in 1674, is the rst year after Lima's colonial founding.
the most visited church in Lima. The church is
an outstanding example of the Lima Baroque But most striking are its vast catacombs dug
colonial church. Its impressive neo-classical in 1546 as the city's rst burial ground until the
altar, glazed ceramic tiles, lovely cloistered main cemetery was built. These underground
courtyards and carved ceilings also make an tunnels contain the bones of as many as
impression. 75,000 bodies, including a well lined with
When visiting, peek inside its museum, which perfectly laid skulls and femurs. It is by far the
return

holds excellent examples of religious art, most moving component of the Iglesia de San
especially wooden carvings of saints and Francisco the capital's most fascinating
portraits of the apostles. A library has a splen- church.
did collection of antique texts, many dating to

45
A visit to the San Francisco convent
About See more in See more in
Introduction LivinginPeru.com Lima City Sights

The full name is El Circuito Mgico del Agua. Its


between Av. Petit Thuars and Jr. Madre de Dios:
330-3052 or 332-9417.

Limas Magical water Park


are interactive. All of the fountains are
lighted at night, many with conti-
nuously changing colors. All the lively
performances from each of the foun-
tains in the park's collection are unique
and elaborate. The largest fountain
reaches more than 260 feet high.
Additional attractions include the
Tunnel Fountain of Surprises, a walk-
through tunnel of water; the Childrens
return

The Parque de la Reserva in downtown Lima Fountain, a walk-in interactive foun- Lima attraction. The water park also exhibits
has a fountain park designed to enthrall visi- tain; and the Fantasia Fountain, that a unique collection of sculptures conceived
tors with shows of water, music, and laser synchronizes a laser and picture show by Peruvian artists.
lights. Called the Magic Water Tour, it to music. Its a wonderful public space where Lima
currently holds the world record for being the These synchronized water spectacles residents from all social backgrounds join
largest fountain complex in the world. It con- are not the only features in this modern tourists to appreciate the fountains.
sists of 13 distinct fountains, many of which

46 Photo Essay: The Magical Water Park

Four parks you need to visit in Lima


About See more in See more in
Introduction LivinginPeru.com The Coast Food

Two top distilleries to visit are Vias de Oro in EnoTours: 261-3772). And be sure to drink good
Chincha and Sarcay in Azpitia. Close to Lima, pisco: See our popular article, The Best 11
visit the Queirolo bodega in Pachacamac (Call Piscos in the World.

Visit a Pisco Distillery


Since Peru concentrates more in the
traditional distilling method, these
bodegas are a proud testimony to the
art of distilling and their tours will take
you to the very heart of pisco making.
Several of these wineries are family-
run businesses that produce handcraf-
ted pisco and provide guided tours
showcasing how Peruvians have
preserved the original way of making
return

Pisco ever since the 18th century. the informative tour (bring your notebook so
They will take you behind the scenes you can impress Limeos later on) enjoy the
What better way to capture the true spirit of from the starting point in which the best part: taste the distillery's different pisco
Peru's most beloved spirit than to visit a pisco grapes are picked from the vines, to varieties.
distillery. These bodegas can be found along their warehouses where the grape Share our passion for Peru's national spirit
Perus southern coast: the regions of Lima, Ica, juice is fermented then distilled. After and learn the secrets of pisco.
Arequipa, Moquegua and Tacna.

47 Following the Pisco Route

Photos: A visit to Vias de Oro


About See more in See more in
Introduction LivinginPeru.com All of Peru Food

You wont have any problems nding Inca Kola Youll need to stay there in order to return the
in Peru. However, we recommend you try drin- bottle to the vendor its an authentic Peru
king a glass bottle of it at a local tienda or kiosk. experience.

Drink Inca Kola

Just ask any Peruvian what his or her favorite


soda is. The answer will be probably always The soda pop consistently eclipses all other
be: Inca Kola. carbonated drinks including Coca Cola (its
owner, by the way). Part of the appeal to
The makers of this golden cola, with its royal Peruvians, perhaps, is national pride. Slogans
blue Inca motif, have every right to boast. This include "The avor of Peru!" "Peru's drink!"
local favorite has dominated the Peruvian and "the icon of Peruvian identity."
market from day one.
return

You'll see Inca Kola everywhere. And if you


Newcomers to Peru are typically turned off by don't love it already, just give it a few more
the bubble gum taste and radioactive color. tries.
But just ask that skeptic how he or she feels
about Inca Kola after living in Peru for a year.

48
The Little Cola that Could: History of
Inca Kola

Interview withy Jhonny Lindley, Owner


of Inca Kola
About See more in See more in
Introduction LivinginPeru.com The Coast Adventure

Sandboard Peru, run by Martin Guerra, pro- trips. Ask for Dito. In Huacachina, stay at
motes the sport and organizes events. Mosone Hotel or Carolas del Sur Hostel. Try The
Hotel Belle Sand in Ica offers sandboarding Pub for drinks and Arenas for dancing.

Sandboard in Perus desert


Sandboarding is a top new- uipa reach 900 feet. However,
comer to the action sports the most impressive of them
scene, and Peru's desert all is Cerro Blanco, the "Ever-
provide the best natural spots est of the Desert. With its
for adrenaline seekers to try it. steepest peak at an intimidat-
Peru has some of the ing height of 2,000 feet, it
largest sand dunes in the holds the title of the highest
world and draws a steady dune in the world. Some of
stream of professional and these locations also host
amateur boarders. The best international sandboard com-
place to start is La Huaca- petitions throughout the year.
return

china Oasis in Ica, a party Whether you are a beginner or


town where you can rent an expert, hurtling down these
boards and eventually gradu- slopes on nothing but a thin
ate to try the 500-foot dunes. board is guaranteed to be a
Lomo de Corvina in Lima has fun adventure that gets the
700-foot sand rises and the blood rushing.

49
steep dunes in Casma, Areq-

Huacachina: Sandboarding, the Desert


and an Oasis
About See more in See more in
Introduction LivinginPeru.com All of Peru Food

Where to nd it in Lima: Parque Donofrio in ores); Pasteleria San Antonio (all over Lima);
Miraores across from Parque Kennedy; Gelate- 4D Gelateria (in Limas airport, among other
ria Laritza ( Av. Comandante Espinar 800, Mira- places); Sorbets & Ice Cream Caf in Lince.

indulge in lucuma ice cream


One the most interesting things you
will discover, if you ever set out to buy
yourself an ice cream cone in Peru, is
that they may not always have your
basic favorites: strawberry, chocolate
or vanilla. But they will always have
lucuma. Ask any local to suggest an
ice cream avor and they will most
likely mention lucuma.
return

Lucuma ice cream has a unique, exotic potato, traces of peach, and just the mildest
taste with a surprising, mildly dusty insinuation of maple. Its distinctive earthy
sandiness within its rich, creamy, creaminess denitely lives up to its reputa-
avor comparisons can be made to tion. Its is no wonder this subtropical deli-
dulce de leche, perfumed with vanilla. cacy exceeds the demand of all other
You will also taste hints of sweet avors in Peru.

50 VIDEO: A Taste of Peru visits an Ice


Cream Shop

Ice Cream Shops in Lima


About See more in See more in
Introduction LivinginPeru.com The Coast Outdoors

Hemi River Adventures is a tour operator based El Tambo. For good eats, Refugio de Santiago
in Lunahuana. If staying the night, consider serves it Andean and organic.

Rafting in Lunahuana
Just two hours from Lima, and sunshine all year round for
Lunahuana is a serene agricul- those wishing to enjoy the
tural village that in recent benets of the countryside,
years has become a hot spot Lunahuana is a rst rate tour-
for adventure sports. Located ist destination. And just in
in the province of Caete, the case extreme sports are not
valley offers great opportuni- your idea of fun in the sun, this
ties for canoeing, white water pastoral village is also known
rafting, mountain biking, as the land of giant shrimp,
kayaking, shing and hunting. wine and pisco. Lunahunana
This town has become a has several wine shops and
return

tourist center with its adven- cellars offering free samples


ture sports festival held every year round and it makes some
late February or early March. of Peru's best pisco.
With adrenaline opportunities
aplenty for sports enthusiasts

51 Rafting in Lunahuana, a Sunny Winter


Getaway for Expats

Adventure Sports Festival at Lunahuana


About See more in See more in
Introduction LivinginPeru.com The Coast Adventure

Perukite is owned by Peru's pioneering kite- two luxury hotels, the Doubletree and La Haci-
surng couple. They offer lessons with qualied enda. The village of Paracas offers cheap hos-
instructors right on Paracas Bay, and also oper- tels. While in Paracas, make sure to go for a
ate out of Mancora. Right on Paracas Bay are drink at the gorgeous bar at Hotel Paracas.

Kitesurf in Paracas
Three hours south of Lima, kite surng is that you get a
Paracas is the ideal location to high rush of adrenaline with
try the latest in extreme very little risk. Simply by
sports: kite surng. Nearly harnessing the power of the
constant wind, placid pro- wind and ocean, your board
tected waters, desert land- can reach top speeds as you
scape and nearby luxury and y as high as 20 feet up in the
backpacking accommodations air. It is specially thrilling when
make Paracas Bay one of the the wind picks up to a given
best places in the world to kite threshold and jumps and
surf. This hybrid sport, a mix loops come in to play. Pack
return

of both kiting and surng, has your bathing suit and get
taken over the water recre- psyched, kite surng in Para-
ation areas of some of the cas is Peru's latest in fun.
world's most popular
beaches. The cool thing about

52 Latin America's New Kite Surng Paradise

What the Wind Brought to Peru


About See more in See more in
Introduction LivinginPeru.com Lima Food

See a recipe for causa. The restaurant Mi Causa next to Jorge Chavez airport; El Embrujo, Berlin
is dedicated to causa creations. Other top res- 536 in Miraores; and El Mercado, a trendy new
taurants to try a causa in Lima include: El Grifo, creole joint by chef Rafael Osterling.

Try CAusa, the patriotic appetizer


Causa is the most famous Lima's top restaurants are
hors d'uvre in all of Peru and serving it in crazy shapes and
a dish very typical to Lima. In with exotic llings. But the
its basic form, causa is yellow classic preparation is with
mashed potato mixed with tuna stufng, served cold with
lime juice, aji pepper, oil and a slices of hard boiled egg and
touch of salt. olives.

The story goes that causa was Trying causa is a must for
created a day after Jos de visitors in Lima few festive
San Martin declared Peru's meals are started without a
RETURN

independence, hence its causa appetizer, so hang


name, causa, the cause. around long enough and
Causa can be molded into all you're sure to get your ll.
sorts of shapes and sizes, and
its versatility allows for all
sorts of variations. Chefs in

53
About See more in See more in
Introduction LivinginPeru.com Amazon Outdoors

Eco-Amazon Lodge leads tours in Madre de Wasai Lodge & Expeditions operates out of
Dios. Otorongo Expeditions is an option for Puerto Maldonado. Latino Travel leads tours to
cruises and outdoor activities in Loreto. Pucallpa.

Experience Perus amazon


The Peruvian Amazon is per- life source and ruling body of
haps the most exotic and the region, it limits most of
remote refuge you can escape local and tourist transportation
to. Occupying more than 60 to its vast river system which
percent of Peru, it is one of the can only be traversed by
most biologically diverse dugout canoe, motorboat, or
regions in the world and is large riverboats. With the
teeming with distinct wildlife recent explosion of eco-
and ora. tourism in Peru, it has become
The list includes more than a hot spot for birding, animal
50,000 types of plants, 2,000 spotting and jungle trekking
species of sh and almost enthusiasts. And it is even
return

2,000 species of birds; not to more popular among those


mention the hundreds of looking for some river life
mammals and reptiles inhabit- adventure. Lush and tranquil,
ing the area. Peru's Amazon haunting in its immensity, the
occupies more than half of the Peruvian Amazon is as close

54
country, yet no more than ve as you will get to the Garden
percent of the population lives of Eden on Earth.
there. Water being the main
Treasures in the Amazon: Pucallpa
Health Tips for Rainforest Travel
Walking the Amazon River from Peru to Brazil
A Journey into Perus Amazon
About See more in See more in
Introduction LivinginPeru.com The Amazon Adventure

Contact information for 2011 race: Linda Flynn, See race notices and sign-up information on
linda_ynn2003@yahoo.com and Mike Collis, their Facebook page and the ofcial blog.
michaelcollis@hotmail.com.

The amazon river raft race


112 miles through the steamy rainfor-
est wasn't hard enough, there's
another catch: Your team has to build
your own raft with the logs you are
provided.
There is always a fun and eclectic mix
of competitors of all levels and ages.
There are pros who have invested
months training and engineering
impressive, nely-tuned vessel-
return

The Amazon River Raft Race owns the brag- masterpieces usually locals. Then prayer usually tourists. Once the mega-
ging rights to being the Worlds Longest Raft- there are participants who just want to phone yells "Go!" you will take on the
ing Race. For the past ten years, the Amazon survive and have fun, so they can brag mighty Amazon and realize why the organiz-
Rafting Club invites adventurers from every about the feat back home (their log ers advertise, "the faint of heart need not
corner of the world to compete on this 112- rafts are often makeshift contraptions apply." But you will have a great time.
mile-long, three-day race. And as if paddling held together by jungle twine and a

55 Racing Down Peru's Amazon River

VIDEO: Get Inspired for Peru's 2010


Amazon Raft Race

A River Rafting Adventure


About See more in See more in
Introduction LivinginPeru.com Amazon Wildlife

To get to the Pilpintuwasi Buttery Farm, go to cross the Nanay River. Visit their website, or
Bellavista (three soles, 20 minutes from Iquitos call them at 96-593-2999.
center by motocar) and take a boat from there to

Visit a butterfly farm


Stroll through stone paths to a heliconias, among others.
tranquil retreat that will charm And there are many more
you with its hundreds of color- remarkable creatures to be
ful butteries uttering all found at the Buttery Farm,
around. The Pilpintuwasi which also serves as an
Buttery Farm is the only Amazon animal orphanage,
buttery farm in Peru and its botanical garden and educa-
gardens have been designed tional center. Visitors will enjoy
to contain all the fruits, ow- the unique pleasure of seeing
ers, and leaves that the cater- new butteries emerge from
pillars and butteries need for their cocoons and mingling
return

survival. You can observe the with the varied vibrant birds,
exotic butteries feeding and tamest of monkeys, agoutis
ying in their natural habitat, a and tapirs. There are few
wonderful tropical environ- places you can go to learn
ment of barely tamed jungle. more about the rainforest
As you wander past its exotic eco-system than Pilipintuwasi

56
and varied gardens you will Buttery Farm, they will
see an array of owers: ensure your experience is
blooming orchids, ginger, unforgettable.
Our Amazon Tour to the
Buttery Farm in Peru
About See more in See more in
Introduction LivinginPeru.com The Amazon Festivals

People who know ayahuasca stress that a good ceremonies out of Iquitos: Blue Morpho (Av.
curandero is the most important part of a good Guardia Civil 515, 65-26-3454) and Refugio
experience. Here are two companies that lead Altiplano (Calle Pevas 220,65-22-2001).

take a trip with ayahuasca


Shamans, called curanderos, spend
years as apprentices to elders, learn-
ing how to blend the Ayahuasca vine
extract with different plant ingredients,
the healing properties of each one of
these plants, and the ways they inter-
act with the spiritual world. Smoke,
icaros (songs to spirits), whistling,
wailing, prayers and ghting off
demons are all to be expected in the
return

Ayahuasca is a vine, the psychedelic Ayahuasca experience. always the possibility the experience will be
concoction and the exotic ritual capable of For some, the experience can serve as three hours of vomiting. But if you
healing all types of ailments and addictions. In a way of discovering themselves and enter the ayahuasca experience for the
the Amazon Basin the ayahuasca brew is resolving lingering issues. Others seek right reasons, you may leave with a new
considered a potent medicine whose recipe a portal to an enlightening connection outlook on your life or kick that pack-a-
has been passed down for hundreds of gen- with other dimensions. And there's day habit.
erations.

57 Taking Ayahuasca in the Amazon

The Ayahuasca Ceremony: A Primer


About See more in See more in
Introduction LivinginPeru.com Amazon City Sights

Amazon Explorama is a good option for lodging Zorrito (Fanning #355 in the Belen area), ice
and tour services. Mad Mick's Bunkhouse is on cream at La Muyuna (Jr. Prspero #621). For a
Calle Putumayo 163. For food, try gourmet local weird expat-jungle experience, try the Yellow
dishes at Fitzcarraldo (Napo 100), Parrilladas El Rose of Texas, a steakhouse with TX themes.

Iquitos, Jungle City


Iquitos is the rustic jungle poverty stemming from the
capital of the Loreto region rise and collapse of the rubber
known for its motocars, boom, today Iquitos is a pros-
ceramic-tiled mansions and perous and modern town.
booming tourism. It is also the From dance halls and restau-
world's largest city that is rants to street theater and
unreachable by road. Often craft markets, the people of
the majority of its visitors are Loreto know how to create a
tourists only stopping by on warm and gracious atmo-
their way to rainforest adven- sphere.
tures or far off river trips along Free from the luxuries of the
return

the Amazon. However, the city Western world, and true to the
of Iquitos has a lot to offer for simplicity that characterizes it,
culture, entertainment and Iquitos continues to draw
nightlife. people from all over the world
Once known for its abundant who are eager to bask in its
wealth and disheartening laid back charm.

58 Living in Iquitos

A weekend trip to Iquitos


About See more in See more in
Introduction LivinginPeru.com Amazon Wildlife

Tour agencies include the nonprot Inka Natura


Travel, Tambopata Expeditions, Manu Expedi-
tions and Expediciones Vilca.

Wildlife at TAmbopatA and Manu


In less than half an hour ight teries and 94 varieties of sh.
from Cuzco, Manu Park's biodiversity
you can nd yourself one of greatest of any park in
immersed in either one of the world is also impres-
Peru's most extraordinary sive. It is home to over 1,000
natural reserves (Tambopata), species of birds. There are
or the largest national park in also more than 15,000 species
the country (Manu). The of plants to be found. And just
exceptional biodiversity in one single hectare can contain
Tambopata's ecosystem up to 250 varieties of trees.
include 91 species of mam- Simply by visiting Tambopata
return

mals, 570 types of birds and Manu you can catch a


(including the one of the larg- glimpse of a signicant portion
est macaw clay licks in the of the earth's wildlife.
country), 1,200 kinds of but-

59 Tambopata Candamo: Saving the


Planet
About See more in See more in
Introduction LivinginPeru.com All of Peru Volunteering

How to volunteer in Peru: Rebuilding Pisco Perus Project Humanity: Un Techo Para Mi
Pas

Volunteer in Peru
ty to be transplanted into the lives and ANIA: Integrating environmental awareness
cultures of locals: tasting the same daily with child development.
delicacies, commuting on the same Ciudad Saludable: Dedicated to improving
rickety pick-up trucks, or trekking the quality of life of the poorest through efcient
same secret paths through the rainfo- solid waste management.
rest. Volunteers in Peru tend to leave Centro Ann Sullivan: Serve people with
the country with a more memorable and different abilities.
deeper understanding and appreciation Yachay Wasi Institute: Works with
for its people, natural beauty, culture, teachers and schools to improve education.
and development projects. Angeles D-1: Dance and performing arts
Here is a list of worthy projects to volun- with children and adolescents.
RETURN

Volunteering in Peru is an excellent opportunity teer with in Peru. Villa La Paz Foundation: Center for desti-
to combine humanitarian efforts, support tute and sick children.
innovative social organizations, and see the Pisco Sin Fronteras: Devoted to the Urpichallay: Works closely with local
country and its culture from within. Volunteers reconstruction of Pisco 2007 Andean communities.
nd it easier to assimilate into the culture, learn earthquake. Yanapanakusun: Rehabilitation center for
Spanish, and to get an insider's pers- girls in Cuzco.
pective. These experiences provide the opportuni-

60
Manos Unidas: Works with people with
developmental disabilities, down syndrome,
autism and cerebral palsy in Cuzco.
About See more in See more in
Introduction LivinginPeru.com Highlands Outdoors

While in Cajamarca, visit Cumbe Mayo, a Pre- southwest of the city.) A nearby hotel option is
Incan aquaduct stretching ve miles and sur- Laguna Seca.
rounded by nataural rock formations. (12 miles

Bathe in the Baos del Inca


Thermal Baths have always The most famous of these are
played an important role in the Baos del Inca, natural hot
Inca history. Water was a deity springs located just three
in the Inca Empire, and the miles east of the city of Caja-
Incas relied on its divine heal- marca.
ing and cleansing qualities. Inca ruler Atahualpa was a
They had several rituals where believer in the medicinal
water was used to purify the powers of these thermal
soul and many of these were baths, and had his own indi-
performed before sacred vidual royal bath at this loca-
ceremonies. Thermal tion. In fact, legend has it that
return

bathing was one of these he was bathing here when the


rituals. There are more than Spanish Conquistadores
500 thermal baths scattered arrived. It's no wonder these
throughout several regions of warm, mineral-rich waters
Peru, including, Ancash, were a favorite of ancient Inca
Huanuco, Pasco, Junin, Lima, rulers. They are without a

61
Ica, Huancavelica, Ayacucho doubt an ideal way to relax
and Apurimac. and have fun.
About See more in See more in
Introduction LivinginPeru.com Highlands Prehispanic

Taking an early colectivo from the city of ence, says the NYT Frugal Traveler (see Read
Chachapoyas to arrive at Kuelap early in the More). For a agency, check out Northern Circuit
morning is the best way for an authentic experi- of Peru.

Kuelap
Kuelap is a fortied citadel lished walls and cornices. It is
that stands on the peak of a estimated that some one
mountain some 9,843 feet hundred thousand limestone
above sea level, overlooking blocks, each weighing more
the Utcubamba Valley in than 200 pounds, were used
northern Peru. It was built by to erect the fortress. It initially
the Chachapoyan culture caught the attention of schol-
also known as the Cloud ars by the enormous extension
Forest people whose realm of its city walls and the quality
ranged from the highlands to of its stonework.
the jungles. The structure of Interestingly enough, though,
return

this colossal stronghold is neither the Incas nor the


almost 2,000 feet in length Spaniards ever learned of its
and its walls tower more than existence.
62 feet. This magnicent fortress is
Kuelap encompassed more among the most outstanding
than 400 buildings, the major- archaeological remains in all of

62
ity of them featuring embel- Peru, and well worth a visit.

The Frugal Traveler visits Kuelap

The Ancient Fortress of Mysteries

Kuelap: A Mystery in the Clouds


About See more in See more in
Introduction LivinginPeru.com Highlands Outdoors

The farm is located on Jiron Chanchamayo Experiential tourism is also big in Cuzco. Check
1355, Fonavi 1, Cajamarca. Landline: out Apus Peru, Inka Pusayuc out of Yucay in the
76-36-5631, cell phone; 97-668-2205, website. Sacred Valley (84-20-1320) and Casa Ecolgica
Cusco.

Work on porcon farm


Porcon Farm, some 18 miles turns helping the women
from Cajamarca, is a tiny plant potatoes, assist a local
village of vicua-populated carpenter in building furniture
pine groves and rich blue from eucalyptus, lend a hand
skies. Visitors can participate with the numerous owers and
in a one-of-a-kind agro-tourist fruits at the green house or
program. You can take part in chip in at the dairy processing
the farm's daily chores and plant. Visitors can also look at
have the unique experience of the areas miniature zoo, and
living alongside members of adventure lovers can set off
this community. You will on hikes in a quest for Inca
return

experience the daily chores of ruins and waterfalls. The


an Andean farmer: planting, people of Porcon live up to
milking cows, shearing sheep, their commitment to not tell
and enjoying some local rituals their history, but instead make
and festivals. You might take it come alive.

63 A visit to Porcon, the Model Farm


About See more in See more in
Introduction LivinginPeru.com Highlands Prehispanic

Cicloturismo Peru leads bicycle tours to


Chankillo. For nearby lodging, there are Las
Poncianas and El Dorado Inn, both in Casma.

Chankillo observatory
Chankillo, located almost 250 sought its guidance for its
miles from Lima, is the oldest political agendas later used
solar observatory in the west- this archaeological site to
ern world. Its 2,000-year-old keep track of the positions of
towers were built by an the horizon where the sun rose
unidentied pre-Inca culture to and set. It is believed that
mark the sun's position thousands of spectators may
throughout the year. have gathered here to observe
Chankillo's existence indi- major solar events. In fact,
cates that ancient Peruvians artifacts located on site sug-
had considerable knowledge gest Chankillo may have
return

of astronomy. It is also one of played a signicant ceremo-


the oldest examples of land- nial function which included
scape time-keeping in the recurring feasts. Chankillo
Americas. The Inca civilization provides us with yet one more
who worshiped the sun and proof that Peru is one of the
marvels of the ancient world.

64 Chankillo: The Worlds Oldest Astronomi-


cal Observatory
About See more in See more in
Introduction LivinginPeru.com Arequipa Outdoors

Stay a night at Cabanaconde or Maca, pueblos Adventure Travel has ofces in Arequipa city.
that maintain tradition ways of life despite the Two luxury options for lodging in the canyon are
steady ow of tourists. For trekking, Colca Trek Las Casitas del Colca and Eco Inn.

Colca Canyon
The Colca Canyon in Arequipa dwindled in the last century, in
has stunning scenery and is the Colca Canyon visitors can
one of the best locations to see them at a very close range
observe Peruvian condors in as they soar up past the
their natural habitat. Along the fading mist that usually hangs
canyon's rim, travelers can over the valley in the early
spot the incredible condors at morning.
the Cruz del Condor lookout Treks into the canyon and
(shown here). At 4,000 feet visits to quaint villages are
above the Colca River, con- best for longer stays. Colca
dors soar and scavenge (the Canyon is a must-see for
return

wing span on these birds are up travels into Peru's Arequipa


to ten feet, making them one of region.
the world's largest).
Although the condor popula-
tion in South America has

65 A Family Weekend Trip to Colca Canyon

Colca: A Photographers Dream


About See more in See more in
Introduction LivinginPeru.com Highlands Outdoors
REad more
Hiking to Gocta Falls
Reections on Ten Years of Travel: Tips
from Rafo Len

Gocta Waterfall

Gocta Falls, located in the remote highland tiful siren lived underneath, luring men into the
jungle of the Amazonas province, is one of the stream.
tallest waterfalls in the world. To reach this waterfall you will trek through
When rst discovered, it was believed to be virgin jungle of orchids and giant ferns. Along
the third largest in the world. But since then, the way you might see tucans, hummingbirds
its true ranking has been cause of debate, and monkeys. This one of Peru's
since Gocta is two-tiered: its has two drops, newest discoveries of a natural wonder be
754 feet on top and a second 1,771-foot drop one of the few privileged to visit Gocta up
to the bottom. (Indeed, waterfall controversy close.
exists.)
The outside world was let known of Gocta's
existence as recent as 2005, from a German Get there
return

scientist working in the area. Locals, of From Chachapoyas, use Chinata Tours (on
course, always knew known about Gocta, but Pedro Ruiz in front of Banco del a Nacion,
they avoided the falls, some believing a beau- 978-041-600). Download a map of the
Gocta area, and a general map of touris-

66
tic sites in Amazonas region (both in
Spanish). Stay at Gocta Lodge, a simple
and comfortable place right near the falls
(the photo below is a vista from the lodge).
Turismo Explorer offers tours of Gocta.
Vilaya Tours offers more personalized
services, with a British owner.
About See more in See more in
Introduction LivinginPeru.com All of Peru Food

La Granga Azul is where Pollo a la Braza was lies. Top chains in Lima are Norkys, Rokys,
created in the 1950s. Its located at Km 11.5 Pardos and Las Canastas. But pollo a la brasa
along the Carretera Central, and is best for fami- joints are all over Peru.

Eat pollo a la brasa


lime juice, which has been roasted in
large coal ovens designed exclusively
for its preparation.
Pollo a la Brasa is traditionally served
with large fries, a side of salad dressed
with creamy vinaigrette, and a set of
sauces that always includes mayon-
naise and aj amarillo sauce. It is a
favorite at family dinners where ever-
yone digs in to savor this appetizing
return

Peruvian rotisserie chicken is a major league treat without the need or want of Institute of Culture gave it the status of
player in Peruvian gastronomy, and it has utensils. Trust the locals: it is best National Heritage icon, and in 2010 it was
serious clout in Lima culture. This local favorite eaten with your ngers! Pollo a la included on the list of consumer goods to
consists of a marinated chicken spiced with brasa is so loved and consumed by calculate ination rates.
traditional Peruvian rotisserie seasoning and Peruvians that in 2004 the National

67 A Trip to Three Pollo a la Brasa Chains in Lima

Interview: Franchising Peru's Pollo a la Brasa

Where to Eat? Peruvians Prefer Pollo a la Brasa


About See more in See more in
Introduction LivinginPeru.com Highlands Andean

Cruz del Sur is your best bet to travel by bus to Begin your journey in cities like Huancavelica,
the largest highland cities from Lima. Ayacucho, Huancayo or Jauja.

Visit the Central Highlands


land, from the herds of llamas and
cattle that determine the pace of
motorized trafc to the spectacular
festivals paying homage to the mother
earth. Festivals, ceremonies and tradi-
tions are abundant, bumpy bus trips
make an ideal setting for talking with
the locals, and local markets are an
eye feast of handicrafts. You can stroll
past street markets and colonial chur-
ches in Huancavelica, see the central
return

The Central Highlands are the heartland of part of it all is the almost complete absence
Andean Peru. There is no better way to truly highlands by train on your way to of tourists. This is Peru at its most Peruvian;
get an insight into local life than here. Life in Huancayo, celebrate Semana Santa in a truly authentic experience.
this bare and remote region is beautiful in its Ayacucho or visit remote pre-Inca
simplicity. Here everything revolves around the ruins near Tantamayo. And the best

68 Visit the Chilly But Welcoming


Highlands of Huancavelica

A Ride on Horseback Across the Andes


About See more in See more in
Introduction LivinginPeru.com Highlands Festivals

Folklore Festival in Puno


Also known as the folklore Mary in ower petals from
capital of the Americas, Puno below and the balconies
is home to one of the most above all along the route.
dynamic folk religious festivals Trailing close behind is a large
in Latin America: the Virgen de parade of more than 200
la Candelaria. The festival falls groups of musicians and
sometime during the rst two dance troupes dressed in the
weeks in February. On its main most fantastic customs, wear-
day, churches and residences ing outlandish masks and
are decorated in bright cloth playing zampoa pan-pipes.
banners and streets are paved The most traditional of the
return

with ower beds paying dances performed is La Dia-


homage to their saintly blada, in which dancers try to
matron. Then a statue of the dramatize the struggle
Virgin Mary is led through the between good and evil.
city in a vibrant procession of It is an spectacular explosion
clergy and pagans, carefully of colors, music, costumes

69
respecting the hierarchy, as and fun-embracing tradition.
spectators attempt to shower

Virgen de la Candelaria Festival 2010


About See more in See more in
Introduction LivinginPeru.com Highlands Prehispanic

The Ventanillas of Cajamarca

About the city of Cajamarca

ventanillas of combayo
The Ventanillas de Combayo, were placed inside. If you
three hours from the city of want to peek into tombs you
Cajamarca, are several hun- have to climb a precarious
dred funerary niches that were path with a series of foot
cut some 30 meters high into holds. But the top provides an
the rock face of a cliff. More excellent view of the valley.
than 4,000 years old, it is one And if you look closely enough
of the oldest cemeteries found at the ground you might just
in Peru. From the outside, it nd tiny scattered fragments
looks like a hill with a bunch of of ancient pots and utensils.
square and rectangular win- The area around Cajamarca
return

dows carved into a hillside. has many ventanillas, in fact.


but these niches actually lead A few minutes outside the city
into an internal network of lies Ventanillas de Otuzco,
dark galleries, some of which which some describe as a
go 32 feet deep. The tombs tourist trap. If you are into
are only one to two feet tall; out-of-the-way sites, then give

70
only head and limb bones Combayo a try.
About See more in See more in
Introduction LivinginPeru.com Highlands Festivals

Ayacucho lls up during Easter: Make sure to budget hotel three blocks from the main plaza.
book lodging in advance. La Casona is a higher Dont miss out on popular pollo a la brasa joint
end option. Tres Mascaras is a charming Walla Sua (Jr. Gracilazo de la Vega 240).

Easter in ayacucho

Easter is one of the most captivating celebra- ded on a white mule, followed by crowds of
tions of Peru's central highlands. It is a beauti- people carrying golden palm leaves.
ful Catholic festivity of pious expressions of
faith, breath-taking ower carpet exhibitions, Perhaps the most reverent of ceremonies is a
reworks displays, bull chases, and reen- candlelit procession of statues of Jesus and
actments of various scenes from the Passion the Virgin Mary during which all the lights in
of Christ. the city are turned off (shown here). Without a
doubt Ayacucho makes of Easter one of
During this week, Semana Santa, all of Ayacu- Perus most devout religious festivals.
return

cho participates in a series of somber religious


processions. One of the most engaging
displays is a reenactment of Christ arriving
in Nazareth, where a statue of him is para-
Set in Ayacucho during Semana Santa, the
award-winning political thriller Red April is

71
a must-read for anyone wanting to delve
deeper into Ayacucho's recent history.

Holy Week in Ayacucho


About See more in See more in
Introduction LivinginPeru.com Highlands Outdoors

Two agencies specialize in llama trekking:


Q'ente, based out of Cusco, and Andean Treks,
with main ofces in Massachusetts, U.S.A.

Trek with Llamas


Take part in a unique and pre-Incan ruins and participate
memorable trek and experi- in local community activities.
enced the beauty and tranquil- As you head on your way
ity of Peru's highlands while in toward ancient archaeological
the company of unique com- sites you might meet up with
panions: llamas. Throughout local story tellers or be invited
your journey llamas will help to participate in nearby recitals
carry your necessary gear as and feasts. You might also see
you experience a day in the amencos eating shrimp by a
life of a highland resident. After nearby river bank or be
locals help you prepare the enchanted by the variety of
return

llamas before you head out on ora to be seen in the area. It


your journey, you and your will be an experience you (and
quiet comrade will visit provin- the llama too...maybe?) will
cial communities, explore never forget.

72
About See more in See more in
Introduction LivinginPeru.com Highlands Andean

Hospedaje Quenanpancha offers lodging, boat: Show up around 7 a.m. at the port in Puno.
straw boat rides and meals on Uros. There are For a luxury stay, Casa Andina has a hotel on
many tour agencies that do day tours of the Suasi Island, a tiny, uninhabited private island.
three islands. But one option is to go on a local

Stay a night on LAke titicaca


Lake Titicaca, at 12,500 feet
above sea level is the highest Taquile is a tiny island with a
navigable lake in the world number of Inca ruins and the
and home to mystical islands. most colorful local dress:
Staying on an island for at women wear bright layered
least one night is a must for dresses. (Incredibly, each
travelers. island has distinct clothing.)
The Uros Islands, shown here, Locals put on folkloric dance
also known as the Floating presentations almost daily for
Islands, are human-made boatloads of tourists. You can
islands made of locally grown also learn about the famed
return

totora reeds that are woven embroidering in a tiny textile


together so thickly they can museum.
support multiple families. In Amantani Island is the least
fact, reeds are used by touristy of the three. You can
the locals to build everything show up and stay at a family's
from houses, boats and, of house for only a few dollars a

73
course, the islands them- night. With no electricity, the
selves. island plunges into darkness.

Seeing Peru's Amantani Island Through


The Eyes of a 13-Year-Old

Lake Titicaca: A Personal Experience


About See more in See more in
Introduction LivinginPeru.com All of Peru Food

See our recipe.

Papa a la Huancaina
Papa a la Huancaina is a Family banquets and social
classic Peruvian dish that has dinner events are often initi-
its roots in the Andean city of ated with a plate of this local
Huancayo. favorite. It is also common to
This local creole icon consists see a small portion of Papa a
of sliced boiled potatos laid on la Huancaina served alongside
top a bed of crisp lettuce a helping of Arroz con Pollo or
leaves, subsequently covered tallarines verdes.
in a rich, spicy cream made
of Andean cheese and Peru- Part of its appeal is that, in
vian yellow pepper and varying degrees of spiciness,
return

crowned with a few slices of Papa a la Huancaina suits


black olives and boiled eggs. almost any traditional creole
Papa a la Huancaina is among dish well. Its what every chef
the most common starters and dreams the ideal appetizer
side dishes in Peruvian should be: delicious and
cuisine. versatile.

74 Potatoes in Peru: Can highland farmers


benet from Perus restaurant boom?
About See more in See more in
Introduction LivinginPeru.com Highlands Outdoors

Best to visit from May to October. From Cerro de Huayllay. Download map. You can camp in the
Pasco, head south to Junn. At approximately 25 forest for only 10 soles a night.
km, follow road heading west which takes you to

THe Rock Forest of Huayllay


across a vast range of exotic
The Rock Forest of Huayllay is
ora and fauna. Look out for
located in the Pasco region of
vicuas, vizcachas, deer and
Peru some 12,500 feet above
hawks as you stroll about.
sea level. This geological site
Within the landscape you will
is like an outdoor museum of
also nd a glimmering thermal
erosion: It has crazy rock
bath famous for its curative
formations which have been
properties. Visit this little-
naturally contoured by wind,
traveled site and see some of
water and shifting glaciers.
the most unique natural
Within the natural creations
formations on earth, up in the
return

you can spot several human


raried air of Perus highlands.
and animal gures, as well as
various rugged archways.
Among these organic sculp-
tures you will also come

75
About See more in See more in
Introduction LivinginPeru.com Lima Food

The Bioferia is located behind Parque Reducto A pioneer in Organic food in Lima is El Alma-
approaching Via Expresa and Block 9 of Av. Zen, located at Recavarren 298, Miraores.
Benavides. 243-0474.

Limas Organic Street Market


The Parque Reducto Bioferia ing demonstrations and infor-
in Miraores is a block-long mative presentations on ecol-
organic market that celebrates ogy. This organic fair offers a
the rich biodiversity of Peru. unique opportunity to sample
Every Saturday morning, organic breads, cheeses,
locals and foreigners ock to jams, produce, coffees, juices,
the bioferia to stock up on gro- dairy and delicious baked
ceries, snack their way down goods. Here you will nd
the stalls, tasting samples everything from goat milk
from a variety of ecologically products and hand-crafted
friendly foods, and enjoy crafts gifts, to coca our. The wide
return

shows. Most of the stands selection of savory goodies


belong to local organic farm- and displays is enough to
ers, NGOs, and environmental keep you pleasantly occupied
and educational organizations all morning. There is no
that have created a family- healthier (and mouthwatering)
friendly haven of ready-to-eat way to spend a Saturday

76
treats, hands-on educational morning in Miraores.
activities for children, cook-

See a VIDEO of the Bioferia

Read about Punto Organico, Limas


new organic food store
About See more in See more in
Introduction LivinginPeru.com Lima Prehispanic

Make it a day trip: Pachacamac is a short drive (read more here). Pachacamac offers tour
from Lima. Along the way, stop at the Morro guides in English, which is worth it. Its best to
Solar and get a great view of the city of Lima. have a car during the tour: the site is huge and
Then pass by the leaping monk of Chorrillos would take a few hours at least on foot.

Pachacamac
The pre-Columbian ruins of Plazas, shrines, avenues, a
Pachacamac is Limas most cemetery, administrative
signicant archaeological site. buildings, palaces and pyrami-
It was also inhabited by three dal temples comprise this
successive coastal cultures: citadel. Within the site there is
The Lima Culture, the Wari, also a small museum exhibit-
then the Inca. ing pre-Columbian tools,
For the Inca in the 15th cen- ceramics, textiles and a
tury, Pachacamac was a carved wooden replica of
sacred city and used to receive Pachacamac the god.
pilgrims who brought offerings The views from the Sun
return

to their oracle and creator-god temple are spectacular, straddled


Pachacamac. They believed between the Pacic Ocean
he was able to read the future and green valleys of Lurin.
and was responsible for earth- This is a must-see for those
quakes and all affairs of the with a few days in Lima.
land.

77 Pachacamac, Limas major archaeo-


logical site

Food, love and adventure 30 minutes


from Lima
About See more in See more in
Introduction LivinginPeru.com Lima Festivals

Plaza de Acho is located on Jiron Hualgayoc Nearby, visit the Alameda de los Descalzos, a
332, in the district of Rimac, only several blocks tree-lined avenue famous for its colonial archi-
from the Government Palace in downtown Lima. tecture. Read about walking tours in Rimac.

Bull Fights at Acho

Plaza de Acho, built in 1766, is the most Each year the Escapulario de Oro prize goes
renowned bullghting ring in Peru and one of to the most skillful matador and the Escapula-
the oldest in the Americas. Every October and rio de Plata award to the most impressive bull.
November, the Feria of the Seor de los Mila- If you are more interested in history (and not
gros brings in some of the world's most as much the live bloody sport), there is the
lauded talents in the bullghting circuit and Museo Taurino nearby. The museum exhibits
crowds jam this wooden and adobe arena to bullghter suits and trophies as well as pain-
see which matador subdues the most impres- tings and illustrations of bullghting scenes by
return

sive bull. The toreros execute their series of various artists, including Picasso.
cape passes to thunderous audiences as they
compete for the glory of the best bull
ghter of the year award.
Peruvian bullghting pits tradition
against new sensibilities

78
About See more in See more in
Introduction LivinginPeru.com Lima Shopping

Enter the market at Ricardo Palma and Petit Blanca, a classic Lima cafe-restaurant. Another
Thouars, by Ovalo Miraores, the trafc circle at option is Haiti, a traditional cafe and sidewalk
the heart of Miraores. Nearby is La Tiendecita spot great for people-watching.

Shop for Souvenirs in Miraflores


The Mercado Indio on Petit traditional and contemporary
Thouars Avenue in Miraores works. One moment you could
is a cozy, open-air market be deciding between miniature
lined with colorful stands and marble churches, and a few
shops offering a wide selec- steps later purchasing t-shirts
tion of Peruvian arts and incorporating pre-Inca motifs
crafts. This is a great spot for or humorous indigenous
strolling and last-minute gift Peruvian characters. The
shopping. Here you will nd owners are pleasant and
textiles, ceramics, leather many have learned a
return

goods, woolen clothing, paint- thing or two from their regular


ings, alpaca garments, jewelry tourist clientele, and will
and a thousand more knick- barter in English, German,
knacks that could take a book French and other languages.
to list. There is also an inter-
esting variety of antique,

79 Shopping in the markets of Lima

The Shaman Markets of Gamarra


About See more in See more in
Introduction LivinginPeru.com Lima City Sights

Presbitero Maestro Cemetery is located in the reliable guide or local friend.


district of Barrios Altos, Jr. Ancash, block 17. It Turibus offers bus tours to the cemetery at
is not the safest of areas, so be sure to go with a night.

Limas cemetery
The Presbitero Matias Maestro Among the more notable
Cemetery is one of the most names, you will nd Peruvian
intriguing legacies of the city naval hero Miguel Grau, mili-
of Lima. Perhaps the most tary martyr Francisco Bolog-
stately cemetery in Peru, it nesi, and the abolitionist and
was inaugurated in 1808 and former president Ramon
houses more than 700 mauso- Castilla. Perhaps the most
leums, several of these impressive mausoleum within
inspired by the neoclassical the complex is the one built in
architecture of the late 19th honor of the heroes of the
century. Most admired for the Pacic War with Chile. The
return

intricate designs of its mauso- spectacular craftsmanship in


leums, headstones and its the marble crypts, stained
marble statuary, its beautiful glass windows and bronze
grounds are the resting place plaques are unlike any found
of several eminent political, in the region. Presbitero
military and literary gures Matias Maestro is home to

80
along with other notable some of the most beautiful
residents hailing from some of masonry work ever crafted in
the wealthiest families of Lima. old Lima.
A historical tour of Peru's powerful:
Barrios Altos cemetery
About See more in See more in
Introduction LivinginPeru.com Lima City Sights

A Day Walk Through Barranco: Part One, Part Two


Check the event calendar at LivinginPeru.com for
upcoming live music in Barranco

Bohemian in Barranco
Barranco is the small seaside district with the Ayahuasca is a new bar located in a gor-
best Bohemian, barrio vibe in Lima. geous mansion on Av. San Martin. It
serves great pisco cocktails and tasty
During the day, it is a great place to enjoy a apps, and was recently included as one of
ceviche with friends or stroll down to a Pacific the worlds Top 35 Bars by Cond Nast.
Ocean overlook. At night, the area
around the municipal plaza buzzes with an For ceviche and seafood, try Canta Rana,
eclectic crowd, while the recently gentried or its little brother, Canta Ranita, located in
walkway under the Puente de Suspiros boasts the back of a market on Jiron Union.
a couple of trendy bars and a top restaurant. Chala, down by the Puente de Suspiros, is
one of Limas top fusion restaurants. Also
check out the bars Picas and Santos,
return

Barranco also has some of the top art galleries


and house parties. which always lls up on weekends.

Here are some recommendations on where to Juanitos is the best bar for laid back
enjoy Barranco. conversation, and a great place to meet
locals, artists and travelers (see photo).

81
Barranco also has a couple of Limas best
peas, Rompe y Raja and Carajo! Other
places with live music are La Noche,
Sargento Pimienta, and El Dragon.
About See more in See more in
Introduction LivinginPeru.com Lima City Sights

Museo Larco is located in the quaint neighbor- the classic bar El Bolivariano on Pasaje Santa
hood of Pueblo Libre, Av. Bolivar 1515, Rosa 291, and Gran Parrillada Timbo for grilled
461-1312. Nearby places for good eats include meats, on Av. Bolivar 944.

Erotic art at Museo Larco


precious metal artifacts spanning three
millennia.
Its array of ceramic pieces crafted by
ancient Peruvian cultures include
several thousand pots in the shapes of
animals, plants and people. Its erotic
collection is the most famous, not
surprisingly. You'll see clay gures in
positions that might make you blush.
And there's plenty of over-sized geni-
talia.
RETURN

The Museo Arqueolgico Rafael Larco Herrera, A distinct characteristic of this


more commonly known as the Museo Larco, is museum is that its visitors are allowed
one of the most visited museums in Peru. access to the museum's store rooms If you only have a few days in Lima, make
Housed in an 18th century vice-royal mansion and are able to see the more than sure to set aside time for the Larco
built over the ruins of a 7th century pre- 45,000 archaeological artifacts not on Museum.
Columbian temple, this museum offers a display on its main halls.
varied collection of ceramics, textiles and

82 A Recent Visit to Museo Larco

PHOTOS: Erotic Ceramic Art from Peru


About See more in See more in
Introduction LivinginPeru.com Lima City Sights

Three Great Bars for Pisco Sours in Lima

See recipes for the four original pisco coc-


ktails: Pisco Sour, Chilcano, Pisco Punch

Classic Lima Bars and Capitan.

Lima has several must-visit bars to rest your Antigua Taberna Queirolo
elbow and raise a glass of pisco. A vibrant local bar in a quaint neighborhood of
Pueblo Libre. Try its delicious sandwiches
El Bar Maury and a pisco sour. On Avenida San Martin with
An intimate, dimly-lit space that claims to be Vivanco, website.
the home of the pisco sour. With black-and-
white pictures and vintage posters decorating Juanitos
its walls, the bar transports you back to the The quintessential Barranco neighborhood bar
Lima of old. Jiron Ucayali 201, with Jiron right on the municipal plaza. A great space
Carabaya, right off Plaza San Martin, website. where regulars, artists, tourists and well-
known artists and public personalities go for
return

Hotel Bolivar sandwiches, chilcanos and great conversa-


Or was the pisco sour rst made here? Regar- tion.
dless, better excuse to visit both places. Hotel
Bolivar is right on Plaza San Martin; its bar lls Bar Cordano
with pisco sour drinkers on weekends. Open since 1905, Cordano has been owned
by its wait staff since the 70s. Located close to

83
the government palace, enter on Jiron Ancash
202 or from Jiron Carabaya. See this article.
About See more in See more in
Introduction LivinginPeru.com The Coast Food

A small stand owned by La Ta Grima attracts Tio Mario is a good option in Barranco, on the
lines of anticucho-lovers every night: Block 11 of Puente de Suspiros. Try the award-winning
Av. Enrique Palacios, Miraores. anticuchos at Glotons, with sidewalk seating on
Comandante Espinar 529, Miraores.

Tasty Beef Hearts

Anticuchos are an extremely popular and ocks gathering around the smiling, smoke
inexpensive Peruvian creole dish. cloud-wielding, often matronly anticucho
This signature treat consists of small pieces of sellers. From stadiums to college campuses,
charcoal-grilled beef heart threaded on to from parks to the windows of everyday
wooden skewers. Traditionally, they are also houses: After sunset, Lima belongs to anticu-
accompanied by a chunk of corn cob, a cho vendors.
couple of slices of baked potato and a small Now you can savor anticuchos even in the
side of grilled tripe, or "pancita." nest of Peruvian restaurants. The anticucho
return

Anticuchos can be easily purchased on street is now a part of everyday cuisine in all regions
carts and improvised food stands everywhere and social classes of Peru.
in Lima. Passer-bys are typically lured by the
strong, savory aroma. It is not rare to see

84
About See more in See more in
Introduction LivinginPeru.com The Coast City Sights

Afro-Peruvian Culture
Peru's Afro-Peruvian community the time of a festival. The
is small but has a large inu- Festival del Virgen del Carmen,
ence on culture and music in in late December, and
Lima and the southern coast. Verano Negro in late February
Musica criolla and food like tacu are both good times to visit.
tacu and anticuchos are some In Lima, try to catch a perfor-
of the strong contributions this mance by the sons of Peru
small, tight-knit community Negro, a musical family that
has made to Peruvian society. does a wonderful job keeping
The center of the Afro- the music alive and vibrant.
Peruvian culture is found in
the town of El Carmen, out-
side of the city of Chincha. It
return

was in this region that freed Chincha is at Km 196 of the


slaves continued to work on Panamericana Sur highway.
haciendas, mostly picking By bus, travel with Cruz del
cotton. It's best to visit Sur, or Soyuz (the cheaper

85
Chincha and El Carmen during option). Hostal El Condado is
a lodging option at Km 195 of
the highway, (56) 26-1424.

Verano Negro in El Carmen

Discovering Chincha: Afro-Peruvian Culture


and Vineyards

Peru Negro: The Best Afro-Peruvian Concert


About See more in See more in
Introduction LivinginPeru.com The Coast Prehispanic

On the Panamericana Norte, turn right at Km 184 beachside bungalows at Albufera Medio
and youll pass through the Supe valley to Caral. Mundo, and La Casa de Isidora in Puerto Supe.
Download a map. Options for lodging include Also nearby is Eco Truly Park, an artistic com-
munity with bizarre fairyland buildings.

Caral, Mother Civilization


In the Supe River valley in all cities were built because of
Peru's coast rests the 5,000- warfare, Caral shows the
year-old pyramids and ceremo- possibility of a peaceful begin-
nial centers of Caral. The site, ning to South America's civili-
discovered in 1996, is proof zation.
that the oldest civilization in Caral is only three hours north
America was developed in of Lima. The site consists of a
Peru. central area with large build-
Caral also may be the dream ings, which include an amphi-
nd for archaeologists and theatre temple, residential
anthropologists, an elusive buildings, pyramids and mono-
return

"mother city." Archaeologists liths.


have long looked for evidence This ancient Peruvian settle-
of the rst city building by ment is a goldmine of informa-
humans, and Caral may t the tion about the origins of
bill. Surprising conclusions also Andean civilizations. While not
came up: The city appears the most fantastic archeaologi-

86
to have been born from the tran- cal structure in Peru, its signi-
quil necessity of trade. While previ- cance is sure to awe you.
ous consensus postulated that
A Bus Trip to Caral

Caral: The Oldest Citadel in the Americas


About See more in See more in
Introduction LivinginPeru.com The Coast Food

For an interesting experience try a limeade at a


mercado: They are usually fresher and the por-
tions tend to be more generous.

Drink Fresh Limeade


Refreshing and deliciously hand to help keep their cus-
citric best describes the lime- tomers happy, so you'll have
ade made with Peruvian key no problem nding a spot to
limes. During your stay on this enjoy a nice serving. But we
tropical side of the globe we recommend limeade made at
think a cold glass of fresh a Peruvian household. Maybe
lemonade is one of the best it is the homey hospitality that
treats you can give yourself. makes the difference. All we
The key to Peru's tasty lime- can tell you is that a glass of
ade are the exceptionally homemade limeade
return

acidic and very aromatic somehow just always seems


Peruvian key limes. Restau- to taste better.
rants and mercados often
have this tasty refreshment on

Juicing the Tropical Fruits

87
of Peru
About See more in See more in
Introduction LivinginPeru.com The Coast Wildlife

Around 7 a.m., go to the small town center of Coming back, enjoy seafood at the relaxing and
Paracas to buy tickets for the ride to the islands. newly built beachside walkway.

See Wildlife at Ballestas Islands


Located near the town of (Boats are kept at a distance
Paracas, the Ballestas Islands from the islands, however, not
are home to a marine to disturb the fragile marine
wildlife menagerie. Penguins, habitat in this protected
sea lions, and thousands of reserve.)
birds crowd the rock islands, The two-hour tour also stops
while dolphins swim around by El Candelabro, a giant
and amingos occasionally lamp-shaped geoglyph carved
show up. into sand hills on Pisco Bay.
Small boats with local guides The origins of the 130-meter
return

ferry visitors close enough to pattern are still a mystery to


hear the wolf-pack cries of sea archaeologists, but it is
lions or almost touch believed the Nazca people
dolphins as they splash might have built it for naviga-
along to the pace of the boats. tion.

88 Paracas, the Perfect Escape for Nature


Lovers

Walking the Desert Reserve of Paracas


About See more in See more in
Introduction LivinginPeru.com Lima Food

The Surquillo market is at Block 53 of Paseo de For a more hectic scene, go to the Mercado
la Republica, a 10-minute walk from the heart of Central by Avenida Abancay in downtown Lima.
Miraores. But hold tight to your wallet.

Visit a City Mercado


One of the best ways to get a think of.
feeling of the heart and soul of Small restaurants with set
Peru is to visit a neighborhood menus for ve or six soles
mercado. The Surquillo Market offer mouth-watering
is a place that just delights the scents that lure you to their
senses with its wide range of tables. The sight of the wild
colors, tastes, scents and variety of colors from the fruit
sounds. Its "gastronomic and vegetable stands, the
walkway" is a fun and inex- fragrance from the ower
pensive way to try Peruvian shops and the fresh sh send-
return

cuisine on weekends. Here ing a hint of the ocean will


fruit juice stands will mix you captivate your senses.
any fruit combination you can

89 VIDEO: A tour through Surquillo Market

VIDEO: Interview with U.S. Food Jour-


nalist in the Surquillo Market (in Spanish
and English)
About See more in See more in
Introduction LivinginPeru.com Lima City Sights

The museum, called El Museo de la Nacin, is Another top museum for history is the Museo
located at Av. Javier Prado Este 2465 in San Nacional de Antropologia, Arqueologa e
Borja: 476-9875. Historia del Peru, in Plaza Bolvar, Pueblo Libre.

the national museum


The National Museum is one replicas of the principal
of the most important histori- archaeological sites in Peru,
cal and cultural institutions in including scale models of its
Peru. Within its four stories of major ruins. Don't worry if you
gallery space, the museum aren't uent in Spanish: the
presents an ample collection majority of the museum exhib-
of intricate Peruvian ceramics its include English signs.
and textiles. It also houses a On the top oor is the brutal
vast number of exhibits trac- but important photography
ing the culture and history of exhibit Yuyanapaq, which
Peru from its earliest inhabit- chronicles the violence and
return

ants, millennia before the Inca terror of Peru's two-decade


Empire, up to the time of the long dirty internal war. (The
Spanish colonization. Among name means "to remember" in
its 2,500 displays are a series Quechua, the language of
of pieces from the Paracas, those most affected by
Moche, Wari and Lima violence perpetrated by the

90
cultures. This museum is also Shining Path and Peru's mili-
renowned for its precolonial tary.)

Viewing the History of Peru at Museo


de la Nacion
About See more in See more in
Introduction LivinginPeru.com Lima Festivals

Hacienda Mamacona is located in Lurin, just In Lima, see shows at Hacienda Tres Caas. Do
south of Lima. Another option in Lurin is Los expeditions on Peruvian Paso Horses in Cuzcos
Ficus. sacred valley with Perol Chico.

Paso Horses at Mamacona


Hacienda Mamacona is an 1-2-3-4 patter, a trait that
elegant country state home comes from proper breeding
and the premier breeding only.) For many, attending
center of the Peruvian Paso Paso horse shows and riding
horse. Its ample show grounds Paso horses is the ultimate
are center stage to Peruvian expression of coastal Peruvian
Paso horse exhibitions with tradition.
some of the most acclaimed At Mamacona, each show is
horses and riders in Peru. The accompanied by coastal
year-round events at Mama- creole music and typical
cona attract Peru's elite along dishes from a buffet prepared
return

with acionados from all over by top chefs. A visit to Mama-


the world. The Paso horse's cona is to experience the
smooth gait and elegance warmth and charm of Peru in
inspires intense pride and the tranquil setting of haci-
admiration for Peruvians. (The enda gardens, and above all,
horses hooves touch the enjoy the beauty of the Peru-

91
ground in an evenly-spaced vian Paso horse.

Paijan and the Legendary Peruvian


Paso Horse
The Smoothest Saddle Horse in the
World
About See more in See more in
Introduction LivinginPeru.com The Coast Festivals

The competition takes place the last week of


January in the city of Trujillo.

The Marinera dance contest


The National Marinera Contest from amateurs to national
in Trujillo is a celebration of champions take the stage to
artistry, beauty and romance. twirl their handkerchiefs to the
There is no city where Mari- upbeat blend of rhythms from
nera is more popular than in the cajon, guitars, horns and
Trujillo on Peru's northern vivacious hand claps from the
coast. And there is no time audience.
when this region's love for this The dance itself is a graceful
dance is more spiritedly mani- and stylized reenactment of
fested than during the contest the courtship of young
days: Restaurants hold couples. Competing dancers
return

celebratory feasts, local successfully bring chivalry to


parades liven up the streets life with their irtatious and
and festive street decorations elegant movements. It is in
brighten up the atmosphere. celebration of this dance that
The main events, however, are contestants from all corners of
the Marinera competitions Peru gather in Trujillo to give a

92
held in local stadiums and loving nod of respect to Peru's
colloseums. Here, everyone ofcial dance.

Perus Pride and Joy: La Marinera


About See more in See more in
Introduction LivinginPeru.com Cuzco Adventure

Check out the following tour companies for the in Paucartambo. This ve-day festival includes
Tres cruces to Atayala ride: Andina Travel, giant bonres with dancers and acrobats
Enigma and Rap Travel. If in the area during attempting to impersonate Purgatory, street
July, stay for the Virgen del Carmen celebration parties and and more.

Bike Tres Cruces to Atayala


On the road, you'll see rural
You'll start from heights of a communities growing
Cuzco cloud forest, on an bananas, yucca, maize on
exposed campsite where the their small farms. There are
sunsets and sunrises are monkeys, birds a plenty,
magnicent. (See photo.) The orchids and stunning scenery
early morning clouds sitting on to admire from the the bike's
the rainforest some 2,300 saddle.
meters below disguise the
thrilling biking descent over Accommodation along the
the upcoming two days. way ranges from cheap and
return

cheerful to upmarket jungle


The ride is from Tres Cruces lodges where more 500 spe-
to the port of Atayala on the cies of birds have been seen
bank of the Madre de Dios and 11 types of monkeys hang
River. out.

93 A 24-hour Trip from Cuzco to See the


Sunrise at Tres Cruces
About See more in See more in
Introduction LivinginPeru.com Cuzco City Sights

Sitting a 11,000 feet in the Peruvian Andes,


Cuzco is the undisputed archeological capital
of the Americas. Once the political, military Visit Saqsayhuaman, an ancient walled
and cultural center of the Inca Empire, it is still complex near the old city of Cuzco,
a center of Amerindian culture, a perfect which provides a magnicent example
testament to its pre-Columbian and colonial of Inca architecture and stonework. It's
history. Every bit the Andean capital, it is
a 30-45 minutes walk from the Plaza de
home to vibrant festivals like Inti Raymi,
armas, and also the location of the
annual Inti Raymi Festival. From there,
hike to the Cristo Blanco for a panora-
mic view of the city. This 25-foot statue
Experience cuzco of Jesus stands in the cerro Pukamoqo
and is a short hike from Saqsayhua-
man, from where you will spot it right
ancient archeological sites such as Ollanta- away.
ytambo, and the legendary Inca Trails. Head
northwest to the Sacred Valley and you can Stop by Plazaleta San Blas, which has
also take a fascinating tour of temples, royal the San Blas church (famous for its
palaces and sacred centers. To appreciate colonial art collection and a hand-
the rich colonial history of Cuzco you can carved pulpit), a ceramics museum, the
return

immerse yourself in its Baroque and Renais- Religious Art Museum and a vibrant
sance churches and mansions. If it is adven- artisan, bohemian neighborhood of
ture you seek, Cuzco offers the perfect cobble stoned paved streets, where you
setting for mountain-biking, river-rafting and will nd several coffee shops and galle-
trekking. And of course, Cuzco is the ries.
gateway to Macchu Picchu.

94
A good hotel option is Nios Hotel,
which supports orphaned children in
Cuzco.

A gourmet restaurant not to miss is


Cicciolina.
About See more in See more in
Introduction LivinginPeru.com Cuzco City Sights

The Fallen Angel is at Plazoleta Nazarenas 221. cha 400 two blocks from the Plaza. And be sure
Other great bars include Piskuo, right on the to try creative pisco cocktails at El Pisquerito.
Plaza de Armas, and La Chupiteria at Tecseco-

Party at Cuzcos FAllen Angel

Fallen Angel is a funky, artsy cocktail bar and ce. On top of its fun atmosphere, the food and
restaurant in Cuzco. It is an experience that drinks are also a delicious treat. The bar
has been descibed as "Cancun, two miles makes mixed drinks with exotic fruits; try the
up." The decor alone makes a visit worthwhile. martinis, margaritas and caipirinhas.
Its glassed-in corridors overlook the colonial
patio of a former monastery, while the main Fallen Angel is also considered a local cultural
dining room is a series of intimate rooms hot spot. Fallen Angel wants to help each one
adorned with artwork from the Cusquea of its guests see how wonderful life is and
return

School, stone arches, animal print furniture, celebrate the modern side of Cuzco.
disco balls, and tables made from thick sheets
of glass atop porcelain bathtubs lled with
brightly colored live sh. It is a surreal ambian-

Hot Nightlife and Restaurants in Cuzco

95
About See more in See more in
Introduction LivinginPeru.com Cuzco City Sights

The temple is located at Av. El Sol with Calle road, visit Kusicancha, believed to be the ruins
Santo Domingo; entrance is 10 soles. Down the of an Inca palace.

Koricancha-Santo Domingo
If you ever need a visual aid Its outstanding stone masonry
to understand the Spanish was kept as a base for the
conquest of the Inca Empire, construction of a Catholic
Koricancha and the Convent institution: the Convent of
of Santo Domingo provide the Santo Domingo, built in
perfect illustration. Koricancha baroque style in the 17th
was the most extraordinary century. What the Spanish
temple crafted in the time of brought in priceless art,
the Inca Empire. Dedicated to main cloisters and sculptures
the worship of their Sun god, are of interest. But the
the Incas lined its walls with architecture and perfectly
return

gold panels, adorned it with symmetric Inca stone work of


altars and life-sized statues of the original temple chambers
solid gold and used it as the are outstanding. There is no
main astronomical observa- more perfect intersection
tory. But when the Spaniards between Spanish and Andean
came, Koricancha was one of culture than this construction.

96
the many Inca temples and
palaces that were plundered.

The Churches and Temples of Cuzco


About See more in See more in
Introduction LivinginPeru.com Cuzco Prehispanic

Andina Travel Peru and Qente are two options Miguel Jove Mamani leads tours.
for tour operators. At the South American
Explorers Club in Cuzco, clubhouse vounteer

Choquequirao is an ancient
Choquequirao vast valley of the river Ro
Inca site very similar to Machu Apurmac below. The site is
Picchu in signicance, differ- made of typical Inca farming
ent in architecture and equally terraces, a temple, administra-
shrouded in mystery. It is tive buildings, warehouses,
located along the Salkantay living quarters, aqueducts,
Mountain Range in the La and water springs.
Convencion province of Scholars believe the Spanish
Cuzco. This citadel served the never learned of its existence;
same religious, political and in fact, most buildings are
agricultural functions as its well-preserved and in the
imperial sister city. Designed process of restoration. It was
return

to be in alignment with the sun most likely among the last of


and stars, the Choquequirao the Incan strongholds to serve
ceremonial hill allows for a 360 as a refuge after the arrival of
degree view of the ruins, its the Spanish Conquistadors.
surrounding landscape, and Like the Inca Emperor who
occasional condors ying chose the site of this city,
overhead. Its features include tourists visit Choquequirao to

97
mountain peaks reaching have a Machu Picchu experi-
17,000 feet above and the ence without the crowds.

The Lost City of Choquequirao

Walking From Choquequirao to Machu


Picchu
About See more in See more in
Introduction LivinginPeru.com Cuzco Festival

Buy tickets from Cuzco's Festivities Municipal Hotel Monasterio is Cuzcos top hotel: If you
Enterprise, located on Santa Catalina Ancha cant afford to stay the night, you should enjoy
333. Phone: 84-22-6711. its beautiful bar or replace.

The inca sun festival


res for days and presenting animal
sacrices to their deity.
Cuzco still celebrates this ancient ritual
every year on June 24. However, it is
now a full-day community-organized
spectacle attended by thousands, that
is decorously reenacted by more than
500 local actors (some would call it
more Disney than Incan). During June
in Cuzco there are also expositions,
festivities, concerts and numerous
return

During the Incan reign of Peru, Inti Raymi was other parties. It's a month for parties
the paramount Festival of the Sun. This nine- and holidays. Everyone is invited to
day festivity marked the beginning of the new Paying Homage to the Sun in Peru
join in the festivities and every year
year with the winter solstice and it was the thousands of visitors do from
Inca's way of thanking their sun god for the The Incan ritual for Peru's Tourists is
Cuzco, all of Peru and all over the
success of their crops. Some of the rituals of out of Reach for Many Locals
world.
this festivity included fasting, not lighting any

98
About See more in See more in
Introduction LivinginPeru.com Highlands Food

JM Gutarra goes to houses in Lima to prepare a See a video of Jesus making a Pachamanca.
Pachamanca. Ask for Jesus or Marta Gutarra:
224-8248, jmgutarra64@yahoo.es.

The Andean feast


Pachamanca is a traditional involves the cooperation of an
Andean meal, originally used entire community and can
as a way for the people of the take up to three hours to
region to render homage to make.
Mother Earth. Originally this Men dig a hole in the ground
ceremonial feast consisting of while the women season the
baked meats and vegetables meats, clean vegetables and
would only be prepared gather herbs. A bed of volca-
between February and March nic stones is then heated in
to celebrate the harvest or this large earth pit with a wood
during religious and social re. Here layers of meats,
celebrations such as mar- vegetables, and spices are
return

riages or baptisms. piled high and topped by a


Today, times have changed nal sheet of heated stones
and variations of this Andean and soil to prevent any heat
banquet can be enjoyed in from escaping. The exquisite
various restaurants all aroma emanating from the
throughout Peru, although smoky warm earth explains

99
Sundays are the preferred why it has remained a favorite
day. A traditional Pacha- since ancient times.
manca, however, usually
About See more in See more in
Introduction LivinginPeru.com Highlands Prehispanic

When traveling to Chavin de Huantar from beautiful and you can ask the driver stop as
Huaraz, you should fork over the extra soles often as you want for photo ops.
(about 200, or $70) for a taxi. The scenery is

Chavin de huantar
Located 68 miles from Huaraz see: snaking underground
on the eastern slopes of the tunnels and galleries, temples
Cordillera Blanca, Chavin de and plazas, and a complex
Huantar is the site of the network of alleys and ducts. A
Chavin culture, one of the unique element of the ruins
continent's oldest civilizations. are the highly stylized carvings
The site, once used as a large of humans going through
ceremonial center, contains mystifying transformations, the
ruins and artifacts that hold puma, condors and other
geographical and religious divinities. Other attractions
signicance. Scholars believe include the Chavin obelisk and
return

Chavn de Huntar served as a the Lanzon de Chavin all made


place of worship for the of keenly carved rock. Chavin
people of the region as well as de Huantar is another of
serving as a home for Perus amazing feats of thou-
oracles.There is a great deal to sands -years-old engineering.

100 Travels in Huaraz: The Trip to Chavin de


Huantar

Visiting Chavin de Huantar: Peru's An-


cient Culture
About See more in See more in
Introduction LivinginPeru.com All of Peru Wildlife

Three groups that offer birding trips are Kolibri An important conservation group is ECOAN.
Expeditions Birding Tours, Manu Expeditions,
and Rainforest Expeditions.

Birdwatching in Peru
With an impressive ornitho- Containing every type of
logical diversity boasting habitat imaginable within its
nearly 2,000 known species of borders, Peru exemplies
resident and migrant birds, biodiversity. Of the 104 bio
Peru is a bird watcher's para- zones found on earth, 83
dise. As a matter of fact, there occur in Peru adding further
are more bird species in Peru diversity to the abundance of
alone than there are in all of bird species and bird watching
North America and Europe sites. To ensure the preserva-
combined. With more than tion of this natural wealth, the
100 species of exotic hum- country created a number of
return

mingbirds and over 120 bird protected areas and National


species not found anywhere Reserves. Peru offers bird-
else in the world, Peruvian enthusiasts more than any
birds are simply amazing. other country in the world.

101 Follow a blog about birdwatching in


Peru.

VIDEO: The Creation of a Bird Reserve in


Northern Peru
About
Introduction LivinginPeru.com

D o P e r u e For the rst time in Perus history, the country is forging a national identity.
rienc
1 t h in g s to expe
10

Next
This integration revolves around a passion for Peruvian food, internal migration
BACK

and a newfound sense of national pride. While exploring Perus tremendous


geographical and biological diversity, look out for this exciting new force in
Peru.
ALL OF PERU
return

Drink Pisco Sour Indulge in Lucuma Ice Cream


Drink Chicha Morada Volunteer
Give thanks to Pachamama Eat Pollo a la brasa
Peru's Top Beer Eat Papa a la Huancaina
Eat Lomo Saltado Limeade from the North
Buy Peru's Best Silver Birdwatching
Drink Inka Kola
About
Introduction LivinginPeru.com

D o P e r u e
rienc
1 t h in g s to expe
10

Next
Once ignored by tourists, Lima is now recognized as a vibrant metropolis and
BACK

food capital of Latin America. Explore the vestiges of Limas proud colonial
past, and watch as it forges Perus new national identity up around you.
LIMA

Stroll through Historic Lima Lima's Oldest Churches


return

The Huacas of Lima The Water Park


Paraglide over Miraores Lima's Organic Market
See Lima by Bus Pachacamac
Lima Museum of Art Bull Fighting at Acho
Party at a Pea Gifts in Miraores Market
Drink Peruvian Coffee Lima's Cemetery
Modern Art Galleries Bohemia in Barranco
Limas Cliff Mall Erotic Art at Museo Larco
Classic Lima Bars
Tasty Beef Hearts
See a Market
National Museum
Peru's Horse Shows
About
Introduction LivinginPeru.com

D o P e r u e
rienc
s to expe
101 thing

Next
Immense, bountiful and open for exploration: the Peruvian Amazon. Now more
BACK

than ever there are opportunites to explore the Amazons wonderful diversity
in an environmentally-responsible way. Welcome to the jungle.
AMAZON
c return

Boat trip on the Amazon Visit a Buttery Farm


Spotting Pink Dolphins Trip on Ayahuasca
Floating Barrio of Belen The Jungle City
Visit the Amazon Tambopata and Manu
Amazon River Race
About
Introduction LivinginPeru.com

D o P e r u e
rienc
1 t h in g s to expe
10

Next
Explore Arequipas fantastic canyons and Andean culture. Then
BACK

save time to kick back in the citys squares and try its delicious cuisine.
AREQUIPA
return

Arequipa's Relaxing Square Mazelike Monastery in Arequipa


Cotahuasi Canyon Colca Canyon
About
Introduction LivinginPeru.com

D o P e r u e
rienc
1 t h in g s to expe
10

Next
Perus coast is a thin strip of desert packed with culture, cradles of civilization,
BACK

incredible wildlife and the most succulent seafood dishes you can ever imagi-
ne. The coast has a creole personality that is warm, welcoming and will make
you consider turning your two-week vacation into a year-long stay.
THE COAST

Eat Ceviche Dune Buggy Riding


return

Surf Aji de Gallina


Mancora Surf and Serve in the North
Lord of Sipan Tour a Pisco Distillery
The Mangroves of Tumbes Sandboarding
Fly over the Nazca Lines Lunahuana
Party at Asia Beach Kite Surng
The Adobe City of Chan Chan Peru's Patriotic Casserole
Afro-Peruvian Culture
Caral, Mother Civilization
Marine Wildlife
Marinera Dance Festival
About
Introduction LivinginPeru.com

D o P e r u e
rienc
1 t h in g s to expe
10

Next
Cuzco, the historic capital of the Inca empire, deserves a two-week vacation
BACK

just to begin to explore. Discover the regions history, pride and adventure
within these pages.
CUZCO

Experience Cuzco A Festival at 15,000 Feet


return

Machu Picchu Bike Trek from Tres Cruces


Inca Salt Pans Cuzco Nightlife
Volunteer with Kids in Cuzco Koricancha Temple
The Sacred Valley Choquequirao
Cuzco Adventures Sports The Inca Sun Festival
Hike the Inca Trail
Try Different Inca Trails
About
Introduction LivinginPeru.com

D o P e r u e
rienc
1 t h in g s to expe
10

Next
For many, visiting Perus highlands is seeing the country at its most authentic.
BACK

The highlands and Andean Cordilleras hold a mysticism that stays as fresh as its
raried air, no matter how many times you return.
HIGHLANDS

Train through the Andes Gocta Waterfalls


return

Train to Lake Titicaca See the Central Highlands


Cordillera Blanca Virgen de Candelaria
Drink Coca Tea Ventanillas of Combayo
Bathe in Baos del Inca Easter in Ayacucho
Kuelap Trek with Llamas
Work on Porcon Farm Explore Lake Titicaca
Chankillo Rock Forest of Huayllay
The Andean Feast
Chavin de Huantar
About
Introduction LivinginPeru.com Photo Credits
BACK

1 STROLL THROUGH HISTORIC LIMA Javier 4 0 M O N A S T E R Y I N A R E Q UIPA Pilar Olivares, LLAMAS Anibal Solimano, PromPeru 73 LAKE
Liz a r z a b u r u 2 PISCO SOUR Nathan Paluck 3 HUACAS P r o m P e r u 4 1 P E R U V I A N C OFFEE Heinz Plenge TITICACA Rinda Payne 74 PAPA A LA
OF LIMA Javier Lizarzaburu 4 PARAGLIDE OVER P a r d o , P r o m P e r u 4 2 M O D ERN LIMA ART Courtesy HUANCAINA MundoCocinaVea.com 75 ROCK
MIRAFLORES Armando Alczar 5 CEVICHE Jose Caceres, G a l e r i a L u c i a d e l a P u e n t e 43 CLIFF MALL Isabel FOREST OF HUAYLLAY Eduardo Alberto Rojas
PromPeru 6 LIMA BY BUS Courtesy Mirabus 7 SURF Matt G u e r r a 4 4 P E R U ' S S I L V E R Carsten Korch Turpaud 76 LIMA'S ORGANIC MARKET Carsten
Catalano 8 TRAIN THROUGH THE ANDES Yadira Salazar 4 5 L I M A ' S O L D E S T C H U R CHES Magal del Solar, Korch 77 PACHACAMAC Alan Paluck 78 BULL
9 MACHU PICCHU Carlos Sala, Prom Peru 10 CHICHA P r o m P e r u 4 6 W A T E R P A R K Brenden Allen 47 FIGHTING AT ACHO Javier Lizarzaburu 79 BUY
MORADA Pilar Pedraza 11 INCA SALT PANS Nathan Paluck T O U R A P I S C O D I S T I L L E R Y Nathan Paluck (l), GIFTS IN MIRAFLORES Dyana M. Gonzales 80
12 VOLUNTEER CUZCO Karen Piper 13 PACHAMAMA C a r s t e n K o r c h ( r ) 4 8 I N C A KOLA Courtesy LIMA'S CEMETERY Rodney L. Dodig 81 BOHEMIA
Mylene D'Auriol, PromPeru 14 TRY DIFFERENT INCA A r k i v P e r u . c o m 4 9 S A N D B OARDING Walter Hupiu, IN BARRANCO Marco Mendoza 82 LARCO
TRAILS Alejandro Balaguer, PromPeru 15 TRAIN TO LAKE P r o m P e r u 5 0 L U C U M A I C E CREAM MUSEUM Alan Paluck 83 CLASSIC LIMA BARS
TITICACA Gihan Tubbeh, PromPeru 16 CORDILLERA A g r o N e g o c i o s P e r u . o r g 5 1 LUNAHUANA Bruce Isabel Guerra 84 TASTY BEEF HEARTS Dyana M.
BLANCA Mark Ursino, Magali del Solar, PromPeru 17 COCA TEA C l a r k 5 2 K I T E S U R F I N G N athan Paluck Gonzales 85 CHINCHA Nathan Paluck 86 CARAL
Zack Kinney 18 SACRED VALLEY Carsten Korch 19 CUZCO 5 3 P E R U ' S P A T R I O T I C C A SSEROLE Caroll Ortiz Michael Tweddle, PromPeru 87 LIMEADE FROM
ADVENTURES SPORTS Courtesy Enigma 20 PERU'S TOP 5 4 V I S I T T H E A M A Z O N M a gali del Solar, THE NORTH Isabel Guerra 88 MARINE WILDLIFE
return

BEER Zack Kinney 21 HIKE THE INCA TRAIL Silvia Rico, P r o m P e r u 5 5 A M A Z O N R I V ER RACE Courtesy Mayu Mohana, PromPeru 89 A MARKET
Enigma 22 FESTIVAL AT 15,000 FEET PromPeru archive L i n d a F l y n n 5 6 B U T T E R F L Y FARM Gudrun Sperrer Sebastian Castaeda 90 NATIONAL MUSEUM
23 LIMA MUSEUM OF ART Giancarlo Shibayama, PromPeru 5 7 A Y A H U A S C A A l e x a n d e r Zaitchik 58 IQUITOS Rodney L. Dodig 91 MAMACONA HORSE SHOWS
24 PARTY AT A PEA Courtesy of Carajo! 25 MANCORA Y a d i r a S a l a z a r 5 9 T A M B O PATA AND MANU Anibal Daniel Silva, PromPeru 92 MARINERA DANCE
Rutger Bosker 26 LORD OF SIPAN Walter Hupiu, PromPeru S o l i m a n o , P r o m P e r u 6 0 V OLUNTEER Courtesy of FESTIVAL Armando Alcazar 93 BIKE TREK FROM
27 MANGROVES OF TUMBES Walter Hupiu, PromPeru A N I A 6 1 B A O S D E L I N C A Luis Gamero, TRES CRUCES Rinda Payne 94 CITY OF CUZCO
28 LOMO SALTADO Caroll Ortiz 29 BOAT TRIP ON THE P r o m P e r u 6 2 K U E L A P R o b ert Kittilson Cathy Rinkel (l), Carlos Sala, PromPeru (r) 95
AMAZON Brenden Allen 30 PINK DOLPHINS Courtesy 6 3 P O R C O N F A R M M y l e n e D'Auriol, PromPeru CUZCO NIGHTLIFE Alvaro Davila 96 KORICANCHA
WikiSumaqPeru.com 31 BARRIO OF BELEN Michael 6 4 C H A N K I L L O P i l a r P e d r a za 65 COLCA CANYON TEMPLE Carlos Sala, PromPeru
Tweddle, PromPeru 32 FLY OVER THE NAZCA LINES Heinz M a y u M o h a n n a , P r o m P e r u 66 GOCTA Lluis 97 CHOQUEQUIRAO Morten Bruun Jensen 98
Plenge Pardo, PromPeru 33 ASIA BEACH Rodrigo Posado D a l m a u 6 7 P O L L O A L A B RASA Carsten Korch (l), INCA SUN FESTIVAL Gabrielle Gorder (l), Renzo
34 CHAN CHAN Walter Silvera, PromPeru 35 DUNE BUGGY I s a b e l G u e r r a ( r ) 6 8 C E N T RAL HIGHLANDS Uccelli, PromPeru (r) 99 ANDEAN FEAST Carsten
RIDING Walter Hupiu, PromPeru 36 AJI DE GALLINA N a t h a n P a l u c k 6 9 V I R G E N DE CANDELARIA Korch 100 CHAVIN DE HUANTAR Rodney L.
Rodney L. Dodig 37 VOLUNTEER AND SURF Courtesy A n d r e w D a r e 7 0 V E N T A N I L LAS OF COMBAYO Dodig 101 BIRDWATCHING Jos Alvarez Alonso,
WAVES 38 AREQUIPA'S SQUARE Nathan Paluck 3 9 C a r l o s O l i v a r e s 7 1 E A S T E R IN AYACUCHO PromPeru
CO T A H U A S I C A N Y O N P i l a r O l i va r e s , P r o m P e r u D o m i n g o G i r i b a l d i , P r o m P eru 72 TREK WITH