ROME THE SECOND TIME: 15 ITINERARIES THAT DON’T GO TO THE COLISEUM BOOK UPDATES (05.28.

2013) Before you take off on an itinerary, please take note of, or better yet, print out these Updates to take with you. As everyone who treks around Rome knows, nothing is for certain—opening hours, days, even places can shift or disappear (like the Tiburtina Station)—but you’ve got a better shot at getting to a destination with the Updates in hand. We have listed more Web sites in Italian, because it’s easy to get your browser to translate them into English. We also recommend you go onto the related blog – www.romethesecondtime.com – for information on many of these topics. Use the search engine at upper left to find your topic. We now have more than 400 posts on the blog; so it’s likely we have more detailed information there on a topic that interests you. We also welcome updates from readers who see things we should change or enhance. Chapter 1: The Waters of Rome Itinerary 1: Rome and its Aqueducts: Parco degli Acquedotti pp. 23 and following: The park has changed a bit. The itinerary we recommend starting out on takes you – depending on the season - through some incredibly high weeds. We don’t recommend going there alone, unless it’s been mowed recently. But it’s not too hard to figure out your own itinerary once you’re there. And the park in the summers has been used for large rock concerts at night (e.g. “Rock City”). Expect more events there in the future. For getting food on the way, there’s a tavola calda (“hot table,” i.e., take out hot and cold food) that looked interesting (we didn’t try it) about a block from the park on viale G. Agricola (before Caffè Tornatora and on the other side of the street). And we thought you’d like this from one of our readers: “The first week, we went to Aqua Paula. It's not that this was our first time on the Janiculum, but we looked at it differently thanks to your water tour. We also went out to the Aqueduct Park and were enthralled.” p. 32: Cinecittà You can go inside! There’s now a permanent exhibit. The Web site is accessed better at: http://www.cinecittastudios.it/en/exhibitions. For tickets, see http://www.cinecittashowsoff.com/ticketoffice.asp. The hours and ticket information for visiting the studios with the current “show” is here, and the show is now permanent and constantly expanding. Open 9:30 a.m. – 6.30 p.m. Ticket office closes at 5.30 p.m.; a children’s area is open 10 a.m. – 6 p.m. on weekends. Tours in English at 11:30 and 4, but at a regular ticket price of Euro 20. Regular ticket Euro 10 (2013 price); there are family and student discounts. When the exhibit was temporary, we did a post on it at http://romethesecondtime.blogspot.com/2011/09/cinecitta-dont-miss-romeshollywood.html. Itinerary 2: Water and War—on the Gianicolo 1

p. 34: Where to Start Porta San Pancrazio is now a museum. Delightfully, the City of Rome recognized RST’s Itinerary 2 and it’s part of the well-done Museo della Repubblica Romana e della memoria garibaldina (Museum of the Roman Republic and memory of Garibaldi and his followers). The Web site at http://en.museodellarepubblicaromana.it/ provides details. Open Tuesday - Friday 10 a.m. – 2 p.m. and Saturday, Sunday and holidays 10 a.m. – 6 p.m. Ticket office closes one hour before closing. Also closed January 1, May 1 and December 25. Several excellent interactive exhibits and dioramas give life to the ferocious battles on this spot, and almost everything is in both Italian and English. Adult tickets Euro 6.50 (2013), with discount with bus ticket. We think it’s worth it, as we demonstrated with our post on the museum: http://romethesecondtime.blogspot.com/2011/12/garibaldi-rides-again-newmuseum-in.html. For more on Garibaldi and his exploits in and around Rome, see our post: http://romethesecondtime.blogspot.com/2012/05/garibaldi-in-rome.html. p. 41: Take a Break: Coffee or a Garibaldi Theme Park Bar Gianicolo is closed Mondays and you now don’t have to watch your toes. The area between the bar and the porta has been closed to autos by large planters, making it a bit easier to stick out your feet. This closed area is part of the refurbishing of the porta itself with its make-over as a museum (see p. 34 Update above). Itinerary 3: The Strange Career of the Tevere pp. 42 and following: The Tevere itinerary continues to be a bit problematic, especially when there is high water. But the more adventurous among you still are welcome to try it. Some of the access points to the walks along the Tevere (down at river level, not above) are blocked off (some more successfully than others) from time to time, because of work on the banks, including bulldozing some of the remaining trees and past flooding. You may not be able to get up and down where we suggest, and the itinerary will be hotter and less pleasant, especially in summer. pp. 43-44: Play on the Riverbanks Boat rides on the Tevere: as we say in the text, these change annually, if not more frequently. But they are now (as of May 2013) gone completely. The rationale was that there were too many obstacles in the water after the wet spring. But we think they just were a lousy idea and not worth it. It’s a shame the company has left the various stops to rot – vandalized signs, etc. Ah well, welcome to Rome. pp. 45-46: Working Rome On Testaccio: The “mountain” and area came in at a high #8 on Rome the Second Time’s Top 40. We blogged on it two times (so far): http://romethesecondtime.blogspot.com/2011/04/rst-top-40-8-montetestaccio-and-lex.html and http://romethesecondtime.blogspot.com/2009/10/another-mountain-to-climbtestaccio.html. Also, the art gallery, in RST called MACRO Future, has changed in offerings, hours, name (MACRO Testaccio), etc. See Updates below at p. 183. The new market is open now, and we have firm opinions on the new market versus the old. The new market is directly across from MACRO 2

Testaccio and next to Monte Testaccio. We recommend a visit there – just to see what a new market is like (complete with sushi and Western cafés). Check out our posts on the market changes in Rome. We looked at the market phenomenon here before the new market opened http://romethesecondtime.blogspot.com/2009/05/imagining-failure-romes-new-markets.html and again once it had opened in 2012: http://romethesecondtime.blogspot.com/2012/08/testaccios-newmarket-rst-weighs-in.html. pp. 52-53: Fascist Entertainment and Recreation Italy’s African colonial adventure: With the Arab Spring of 2011 and the crisis in Libya, the RST blog has much more on Italy’s colonialism in Africa. In addition to the link provided in the ebook versions, look at http://romethesecondtime.blogspot.com/search?q=colonial or search “Libya”. pp. 55-56: A Fountain Worth Seeing—or Not Because there is no water in the “bowls” fountain, it may be even less worthwhile to go all the way to the piazza. p. 56: La Vecchia Stalla (the “old stall” - near Porta Portese) has changed management at least three times since we first wrote about it. We have no confidence in the place; yet there aren’t many places to stop and eat along this route Monday - Saturday. Dianne would hold out and walk a few more blocks to Osteria Fernanda on the SW corner where via Portuense becomes via Ettore Rolli and the “fountains” piazza. See http://www.osteriafernanda.com/ENG_Home.html. Chapter 2: The Nazis in Rome Itinerary 4: Hitler and the Germans Come to Rome p. 64: How to Get There See the updated map link in the next Update entry. pp. 65-66: Hitler and Mussolini: The Meeting at Ostiense The Ostiense Station seems constantly under repair, but we suppose that’s good. It’s still very viewable – bas relief, mosaics and all. The big poster with the Dea Roma statue no longer is there. And, perhaps the biggest news is that the once defunct Air Terminal Ostiense – which we advised you to view from the platform of Ostiense Station – is now Eataly. Yes, Eataly. Four floors of gastronomy from all over Italy. Italy goes to New York/Tokyo, etc. goes back to Rome, it appears. We have mixed feelings about Eataly in Rome and about the re-use of La Fuente’s Air Terminal. See our post on this. http://romethesecondtime.blogspot.com/2012/06/eataly-opens-rome-store.html. We’ve added a route to Eataly to the hyperlinked version of the map for Itinerary 4. One of these days it will be approachable from the Ostiense Station (going under the tracks), but that seemed to be blocked the last time we were there. Stay tuned. Here’s the link to the Google-overlay, hyperlinked map of Itinerary 4: https://maps.google.com/maps/ms?ie=UTF8&hq=&hnear=Rome,+Lazio, +Italy&msa=0&msid=115234173574934358486.00048bfd6571661116e3c&ll=41.872341,12.478409&s pn=0.021538,0.037723&z=15 p. 68: View from the Porta 3

Museo di Porta San Paolo is now also called Museo della via Ostiense. Its opening hours are threatened by cuts to the culture budgets of Rome. First it was slated to be closed in 2012, then it was off the closure list. As of late 2012, its hours are in fact longer than as printed in RST. Tuesdays and Thursdays hours are extended from 9 a.m. to 4.30 p.m. and every other day it is open from 9 a.m. to 1.30 p.m. We are not sure we would count on those hours and, even though its public material doesn’t say it, assume it will be closed on major (and not-so-major) holidays. It’s still free, and worth the price and then some. The Web site in English is at least readable (note this is an updated link even from 2012): http://archeoroma.beniculturali.it/en/museums/st-paul%E2%80%99s-gate-and-museum-ostian-way Click on the link at the bottom of that page for a map, opening hours, and other details. pp. 71-72: The Sweetest Cemetery The Protestant Cemetery (aka Non-Catholic) has added Sunday hours: 9 – 1 p.m., last entrance 12:30 p.m. It also has a lively Web site in English and Italian: http://www.cemeteryrome.it/about/about.html (note this is a change from the Web site it previously sponsored), and a fun newsletter with good historical stories. And in Rome the Second Time Dianne perpetuated the myth that Shelley's heart (only) is here. The cemetery reports the poet’s entire body is interred here. There is a nice booklet, with a map listing all the graves, in English. Make a donation and take one. pp. 73-74: Changing—and Industrial—Via Ostiense Here’s where you can deviate to Eataly. Where the itinerary in RST (the book) takes “the next right,” take a LEFT, and you will head, a bit uphill, to Eataly. p. 75: Via Ostiense/Mercati Generali/Centrale Montemartini. Again, you can deviate from the itinerary here to take a side trip to see the Santiago Calatrava knock-off Ostiense bridge (and, if you want, you could use this route to get to the Centrale Montemartini, Euro 6.50 (late 2012). You can get a combined ticket for the Campidoglio Museum and Centrale Montemartini for Euro 11.50 (to be used within 7 days). The ticket office closes 30 minutes before the closing times. pp. 75-76: Hip Cafés Come to Ostiense In Ostiense, Mangiafuoco (“fire eater”) has undergone at least 2 ownership changes since we wrote about it in 2009. It is now Locanda della chianina. Note “chianina” is prized Tuscan cattle; expect steak. A reviewer on TripAdvisor reports the “things” and the ownership seem the same. Tel. 06.575.6220. Web site (the “English” doesn’t seem to wor): http://www.locandadellachianina.it/index.html# And while we’re recommending restaurants in the Ostiense area, we add a hearty one for a casual Sardinian restaurant favored by many Romans with welcoming ownership and staff and very good seafood dishes (try the rombo fish [“rhombus” in English – whatever that means], always served baked with potatoes and you must order for at least 2 people – you will be shown the whole fish before it’s cooked, and it has enough meat on it for 2). Via Ostiense, 100/102; tel. 343.7452156 cell or 06.51606767. It’s just due passi (as in “2 steps”) from the Centrale Montemartini museum, if you’re headed there. The restaurant changed names recently. It was called La Sella da Diavolo and is now called Le Nostre Isole, and appears to be under the same ownership and still mainly Sardinian. Open lunch and dinner, but not in between. Not open Sundays or Monday lunch.

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We also like the smaller Cacio e Cocci at no. 36, via del Gazometro. Tel. 06.374.6419. The Yelp (Italian) and TripAdvisor reviews are mixed, and perhaps the main issue is inconsistency. We’ve been fortunate that our trips there all have been good. Again, you will find this open only at lunch and dinner. And you might want to stop for pastries at the famous (to Romans) Pasticceria Andreotti, via Ostiense, 54. Tel. 06.575.0773. Also in Ostiense, Caffè Letterario, strange a place as it is, is hotter than ever with the hip and adventurous. http://romethesecondtime.blogspot.com/2010/09/caffe-letterario-chic-discomfort.html. and its own Web site: http://www.caffeletterarioroma.it/home.htm Itinerary 5: the Nazis and Fascists in Central Rome p. 82: Church Stop (Dianne says) The Capuchin crypt of the Convent of the Capuchins has been entirely refashioned into a for-pay museum with extended hours. The Italian government got into the picture and helped with the stabilization of the crypt. It now is open daily 9 a.m. – 7 p.m. (no entry after 6.30 p.m.), and costs Euro 6.00 (Euro 4.00 discounted price). Still worth it, Dianne says. There are long museum halls before you actually get to the crypt. Don’t wear yourself out; head directly for the crypt. And, btw, we wouldn’t count on it being open on holidays. In addition to Bernini’s bee fountain, look up at that corner (same side) and you’ll see at no. 7, via Veneto, a work by the early 20th century Italian architect, Gino Coppedè – the only one in the Centro. Coppedè, who worked in his own riff of Art Nouveau style, is best known for an entire quarter he designed, off via Nomentana. We’ve done several posts on this area, and it came in at #20 in RST’s Top 40: http://romethesecondtime.blogspot.com/2010/03/rst-top-40-20-strange-world-of-coppede.html For more posts on Coppedè use the Search function on the blog. Itinerary 6: Attack and Reprisal – A Story of Partisans and Nazis Part 1: Via Rasella pp. 86-87: Church Detour Hours for San Carlino have changed (and could change again): 10 a.m – 1 p.m. Monday-Sunday and 3 – 6 p.m. Monday – Friday, but not in July and August. Mass is offered at 7 p.m. daily and 11 a.m. on Sundays and holidays, and you should not visit as a tourist during mass (as is true with all the churches). Part 2: Via Tasso pp. 87-88: Getting There Note the Metro stop is outside the walls. A closer Metro stop to begin this itinerary is the Manzoni stop (which was closed for years and now is open). It’s a block and a half NE of via Tasso. From the Manzoni stop, take Viale Manzoni (it runs only one way from the Metro stop) SW half a block and you’ll see via Tasso on your left. Go up it to no. 145. The Google overlay/hyperlinked map has the new 5

route on it as an alternate. You can link to this version of the Via Tasso Liberation Museum map that appears on p. 88 of RST at: http://maps.google.com/maps/ms?ie=UTF8&hq=&hnear=Rome,+Lazio, +Italy&msa=0&msid=115234173574934358486.00048bfebce8754f3ba18&z=17. Translations in English for most of the materials are now available when you sign in (and on the Web site). The museum’s opening time for the morning hours is now 9:30 rather than 9:00 a.m. Check the Web site for Updates on its somewhat funky hours: www.viatasso.eu. Click on “Information in English” a paragraph down the page, and you’ll get an excellent overview plus details in English from various dropdown menus. The Germans have put together an excellent Web site (in German and English) on the museum at: http://www.memorialmuseums.org/eng/staettens/view/701/Historical-Museum-of-the-L %20iberation-%E2%80%93-Via-Tasso# Part 3: The Fosse Ardeatine p. 92: See p. 84 of RST under “When to Go” for the hours, and note it opens at 8:15 a.m. pp. 92-93: Catacombs The San Calisto “closed February” is approximate. In 2013, the catacombs were closed from January 24 to February 20. Prices have gone up to Euro 8, Euro 5 for children ages 7 to 15 (free under 7) as of 2013. Information is easily available in English (for updated prices, times, etc.) on the Web site: http://www.catacombe.roma.it/en/index.php.

Chapter 3: Beyond the Wall Itinerary 7: Piazza Bologna: The Architecture of Modernism and Fascism —and Shopping pp. 101-02: Into the Neighborhood (and Shopping) p. 102: Re Jewish institutions in the neighborhood, there is also a Jewish coffee shop/bakery/lunch place now on the corner of via Padova and via Cremona. Don’t ask for a caffe latte, however, unless you want soy milk. p. 103: SPQR Mercato We have (or, rather, Bill has) blogged extensively about the changing Rome markets. The market on this itinerary is one of the dying breed of old Fascist-era public market spaces. Search “markets” on the www.romethesecondtime.com blog and you’ll see plenty of stories. The best describing old and new markets, and focused on the Testaccio area market, is http://romethesecondtime.blogspot.com/2012/08/testaccios-new-market-rst-weighs-in.html. See also Updates above at pp. 45-46. pp. 106-08: Public Art and Modernist Architecture Next to the Jolly Theater is a relatively new, and excellent, trattoria, L’Oste de Coste. It’s very reasonably priced, frequented by locals, including Roman friends of ours, and getting 5-star reviews on the Italian Tripadvisor. You can’t miss it virtually inside the Jolly Theater building (as 6

long as you don’t mistake it for the bar/pizzeria). Although it looks like it’s on via della Lega Lombarda, the address is via Giano della Bella, 2; tel. 06.999.24.609. Expect Roman hours. Web site in Italian: http://www.ostedecoste.com/ p. 108: What to say about what’s left here! Only the entrance you see in the photo. The rest of the ATAC tram barn has been demolished. In its place is rising (somewhat slowly – because they ran into, guess what, Roman ruins) an apartment/shopping complex. The underground parking structure has been scuttled, because of the archeological finds. So who knows where all the cars will go. They did leave the ATAC tram barn entrance. At least someone was thinking a bit about historic preservation. pp. 109-110: Stazione Tiburtina: Scene of the Crime Similarly to the ATAC tram barn, the old Tiburtina Station we describe in RST has been completely demolished. So the "scene of the crime" is no longer recognizable and, the plaque commemorating the deportation of Roman Jews is MIA. What there is to see here is the NEW Tiburtina Station. We did a post on it in 2011, when it had not opened: http://romethesecondtime.blogspot.com/2011/11/stations-attiburtina.html. By mid-2012 it had opened, but was pretty much a ghost town inside – still, or maybe because of that, an awesome visionary space. The privately-run high speed train, Italo, runs from here as well. We watched it head out one day, and took it another, complete with uniformed stewards. Definitely worth a visit. We did a post on the new station in April, 2013: http://romethesecondtime.blogspot.it/2013/04/paolo-desideri-joins-romes-starchitects.html, We also note in terms of transport that the new Metro B1 line is open (sooner than we predicted). B1 runs through Piazza Bologna, heading to the Trieste quarter, where Itinerary 8 has an alternate start and end. Note the regular B line diverges at Piazza Bologna to continue in a different direction, to the Tiburtina Station. You could hop on the Metro here (Tiburtina), change at Bologna, and take the B1 to the Sant’Agnese/Annibaliano stop (one stop, but a lengthy stretch) and pick up Itinerary 8 from that end. See Itinerary 8 (Updates below at p. 114) for more information on that new Metro line and changes to the maps for both Itinerary 7 – https://maps.google.com/maps/ms?ie=UTF8&hq=&hnear=Rome,+Lazio, +Italy&msa=0&msid=115234173574934358486.00048bff07824a1baf7d2&ll=41.911208,12.52359&sp n=0.010763,0.018861&z=16 and Itinerary 8: https://maps.google.com/maps/ms?ie=UTF8&hq=&hnear=Rome,+Lazio, +Italy&msa=0&msid=115234173574934358486.00048bff8c1136f67d863&ll=41.917104,12.515616&s pn=0.021523,0.037723&z=15. We’ve also mentioned the line in some blog posts, if you want to search for the Metro B-1. p. 112: Trattoria da Enrico There are more good restaurants in the area. One is L’Oste delle Coste, described above under p. 10608, and the other is a new restaurant on Itinerary 8 (see the Updates for p. 116). And there’s always the wine bar (with food) uve e forme, described in RST at page 102. The new restaurants (as well as the ones in RST, the book, are on the updated maps for Itineraries 7 and 8 (see the Updates for pp.109-110 immediately above for links to both maps).

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Itinerary 8: In the Parks, on the Streets and in the Homes of the Famous, if not Rich p. 114: How to Get There You now can start at the northern end of this itinerary, with the churches, by taking Metro B1 to the Sant’Agnese/Annibaliano stop. The hyperlinked and updated Itinerary 8 shows this route: https://maps.google.com/maps/ms?ie=UTF8&hq=&hnear=Rome,+Lazio, +Italy&msa=0&msid=115234173574934358486.00048bff8c1136f67d863&ll=41.917104,12.515616&s pn=0.021523,0.037723&z=15. p. 116: And Maybe a Party And maybe not. For the last few years, the German Academy would admit only those with invitations to their supposedly open studios in April. Check before you go. See our problems in 2010 at http://romethesecondtime.blogspot.com/2010/06/germans-occupy-rome-for-evening.html. p. 116-18: Here’s to the Tax Man (and Lunch) We learned more about the monument to the Guardia di Finanza. The artist is Amleto (“Hamlet) Cataldi, a sculptor of the early 20th century (born 1882). Among his works are several World War I memorial monuments in cities across Italy, as well as individual pieces that now sell for hundreds of thousands of dollars. This “Tax Man” monument was inaugurated by the King Vittorio Emanuele III in December 1930, a few months after Cataldi’s death. You can see Cataldi’s work elsewhere: “athletes” placed among weeds of the 1960 Olympic Village in the Flaminio quarter. We hope to do a new Flaminio/Foro Italico itinerary in the near future that will include a visit to these evocative statues. Dianne recently did a blog post on Cataldi, and these statues: http://romethesecondtime.blogspot.com/2012/11/rediscovering-italian-sculptor-hamlet.html. We can update our lunch suggestion with MomArt, which faces the monument (on the northeast corner of the “largo”). It seems to be a large, popular (with Italians) casual restaurant, with ample outdoor seating (you can look at the monument). We haven’t tried it, but its reviews are good. Viale XXI Aprile, 19. Tel.06.8639.1656. www.momartcafe.it – in Italian. Monday - Friday noon – 2 a.m. (you can stop even between lunch and dinner, unusual for an Italian restaurant); Saturday, Sunday and holidays, it opens at 6 p.m. For night owls, kitchen closes at 1 a.m, pizzeria at 1.30 a.m. p. 119: A Detour to Early Christianity As noted, you can reach these churches from Metro B1, Sant’Agnese/Annibaliano stop, but it takes you about a third of a mile past the church complex. See p. 114 Updates above for information on the new Metro extension line. In the book we suggested going to this stop to head home, once the Metro extension line was completed. That’s now useful advice. We note this extension opened in 2012 to much fanfare and derision. The breakdowns were phenomenal. We never experienced a problem, but clearly many did. The station at Sant’Agnese/Annibaliano is also a work of art, but like a lot of Italian art, it looks great but isn’t necessarily functional (nor would they allow us to take photos, although we took two before we were stopped). Speaking of works of art, we found the Sant’Agnese/Annibaliano station was designed by the same architect, Paolo Desideri, who did the Tiburtina Station (see above at pp. 109-10) and the blog post: http://romethesecondtime.blogspot.it/2013/04/paolo-desideri-joinsromes-starchitects.html. 8

Some further advice on times for these sacred places. The Mausoleum of Santa Costanza often is closed for weddings; it’s a prime wedding site, as we have experienced first-hand. The catacombs are closed from late October to late November. The price for the catacombs has increased to Euro 8 (2013). pp. 121-24: Villa Torlonia We still like the art shows in the Casino dei Principi (the smaller of the 2 large neoclassical buildings) here, but placards in English are limited. We did not go back this year to visit Mussolini’s home in the Casino Nobile, but a reader reports that now (contrary to what we said in Rome the Second Time), everything is translated into English “and is very well presented. It was disconcerting to read at least 10 times, ‘We were not able to restore this room (or this stained class window) because the Americans trashed it so thoroughly.’" Prices have gone up. It’s now Euro 10 for entrance to all the museums. Note a correction to the link: it’s musei, not museo (plural, not singular), as in: www.museivillatorlonia.it. You can reach the English site directly in: http://en.museivillatorlonia.it/ (the eBook version of RST has the updated link). Hours have been extended to 7 p.m. throughout the year. Chapter 4: Getting Away Inside Rome Itinerary 9: Monte Mario p. 129: How to Get There The best map is still ours. RST’s hyperlinked map is at: http://maps.google.com/maps/ms?ie=UTF8&hq=&hnear=Rome,+Lazio, +Italy&msa=0&msid=115234173574934358486.00048bfc91ad29425f336&ll=41.930235,12.451372&s pn=0.021519,0.037723&z=15 p. 133: Don Orione We haven’t been back recently, but we’re told this complex continues to deteriorate. See it before it’s gone. pp. 134-35: Downhill The traffic pattern and traffic lights – especially for pedestrians – have been improved here. It’s not as dangerous a dash as it used to be. And, we recommend you take a 5 minute detour to see Officine Farneto (“Farneto Office”), a recently restored out-building from the construction of what was then Foro Mussolini (now Foro Italico) in the 1930s. It's a shining example of Fascist-era architecture that continues to be rediscovered and rehabbed (sometimes controversially) in 21st century Rome. We found Officine Farneto a couple years ago (while meandering off the more beaten paths, as we are want to do). More recently the developers, who saw us poking around their complex, invited us in, gave us a tour and showed us their library of information about the architect, Enrico Del Debbio. We found Del Debbio's work has been given new life here as an exposition and office complex – perhaps more a labor of love by the developers/architects than a profitmaking proposition at this point. Like many of the then Foro Mussolini buildings, this construction site warehouse and office was designed by Del Debbio, one of the premier Fascist era modernist architects and chief architect for Foro Mussolini. It’s amazing that a simple out-building had such architectural 9

attention. Definitely worth a visit. The address is Via dei Monti della Farnesina 77, the street that shoots up directly north in back of the Olympic Stadium. See Itinerary 9 in the updated, hyperlinked version: https://maps.google.com/maps/ms?ie=UTF8&hq=&hnear=Rome,+Lazio, +Italy&msa=0&msid=115234173574934358486.00048bfc91ad29425f336&ll=41.930235,12.451372&s pn=0.021519,0.037723&z=15 For more information, Officine Farneto has its own, rather too elaborate, Web site (www.officinefarneto.it), which includes historical photos and a zip version of the current brochure. Some of that brochure is in English. pp. 136-37: Foro Italico p. 137: The link for the mosaic Web site has changed. Try: http://mosaicartsource.wordpress.com/? s=canevari. Itinerary 10: On the Banks of the Aniene p. 138: How to Get There It’s definitely easier with Metro B-1 in service. That line has a stop at Conco d’Oro, and we recommend using it. See the updated, hyperlinked Google map for Itinerary 10: https://maps.google.com/maps/ms? ie=UTF8&hq=&hnear=Rome,+Lazio, +Italy&msa=0&msid=115234173574934358486.00048c005519af0bff3bb&ll=41.936796,12.52179&sp n=0.021517,0.037723&z=15. Itinerary 11: Parco del Pineto p. 148: Park 1: Grandparents and Babies There’s a new building here, weird and not yet open. Don’t be surprised if the graffiti and grandmothers are missing. Just enter the park. Chapter 5: Getting Away Outside Rome Itinerary 14: Walking and Climbing Amid the Waters of Tivoli p. 170: When to Go, What to Take Villa Gregoriana, like Villa d’Este, is closed Mondays. Don’t choose Monday to go to Tivoli. pp. 174-75: Joining an Italian Hiking Group (sidebar) Note the Web site for the Cammina Natura group has changed, but even the new one is "under construction.” Of these groups, Altair is the most active. They have an email list and will send you their plentiful, and varied, monthly offerings. Since Roma Cè is defunct, and the daily newspapers provide very little information, you need to use the Web sites and get on email lists. p. 179: Walking through Pastures As of 2012, the trail markers were more plentiful and much clearer; so you can go farther. A storm and disease have badly damaged the beloved forest, but this is still an excellent moderate hike out of a wonderful town. 10

Chapter 6: After Six Contemporary Art (With Extras) pp. 183-84: Public Contemporary Art Galleries MACRO, MACRO Future and MAXXI have all transformed themselves in the past few years. We have tried to summarize those changes in the Updates below. p. 183: MACRO, the City’s (as opposed to the State’s) contemporary art gallery, has added a new wing by Odile Decq. We saw it under construction in 2009 (see post: http://romethesecondtime.blogspot.com/2009/05/open-museum-nightanother-reason-to.html) and hoped to see it complete when it opened in Spring 2010. But then it was open just for the “opening” (i.e., an evening for the select few). Now it’s finally open (Tuesdays - Sundays, 11 a.m. – 10 p.m.) and is, frankly, extraordinary. We expected something second-place to Zaha Hadid’s MAXXI (see Update at pp. 183-84 below) and found it even more exceptional. The art also seems better than at MAXXI (maybe MACRO had money left over for purchasing art and putting on shows and, of course, MACRO started with a collection of art). Great location for restaurant and bar on the terrace and rooftop, and those are available without paying to go into the museum itself (if you want to cut your expenses and just get some of the experience of Decq’s remarkable expansion). Ticket prices have gone up – to Euro 11 (forget it non-EU persons, no discounts). A ticket gives you access to MACRO Testaccio (nee MACRO Future – see Update at p. 183 below) for 7 days. We did a blog post comparing MACRO to MAXXI that will give you a feel for these two blockbuster galleries: http://romethesecondtime.blogspot.com/2012/09/the-building-wars-maxxi-vs-macro-romes.html. But, don’t get complacent, the atmosphere from the employees here is still rather chilling. See our updated post: http://romethesecondtime.blogspot.it/2013/05/how-not-to-run-art-museum-few-lessons.html. p. 183: MACRO Future (now called MACRO Testaccio) and La Pelanda MACRO Testaccio (nee MACRO Future), the even more contemporary site for MACRO, in l’ex mattatoio (the ex-slaughterhouse) in Testaccio, also has opened a new hall (another remodeled slaughterhouse building) and, therefore, has larger shows. It also is pricier; it has gone from free to pay. And it is open only when there are shows; so be sure to check before you go, although there are regular exhibits and performances. Ticket prices vary with the show, but if you buy a ticket to the regular MACRO, you can get into MACRO Testaccio with that ticket for 7 days. The Testaccio Music School is located here as well, though we have never found the right time and place to attend any of its offerings. Opening hours for MACRO Testaccio generally are 4 p.m. to midnight, Tuesday through Sunday. It’s just as fun and intriguing as ever. See a post we did at http://romethesecondtime.blogspot.com/2011/09/golf-bags-and-blood-vats-romes-art.html. And a more recent one: http://romethesecondtime.blogspot.it/2013/05/extra-large-big-bold-and-fun-exhibition.html. The new Testaccio market is now across the street from the gallery; so you can add that to your itinerary here. See Bill’s critique of the market at: http://romethesecondtime.blogspot.com/2012/08/testaccios-new-market-rst-weighs-in.html. 11

pp. 183-84: MAXXI MAXXI, the national modern art gallery, designed by Zaha Hadid, opened in 2010. We have our issues with it (see links to two posts below), but it is definitely worth visiting. Like all the major museums in Rome, expensive at Euro 11 (2012). It also now has a restaurant and cafeteria. Hours generally are 11 a.m. to 7 p.m. Tuesday-Wednesday-Friday-Sunday and 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Thursdays and Saturdays. The Web site has changed, and it’s available in English: http://www.fondazionemaxxi.it/?lang=en. Summer evening music/openings spark snaky lines of hundreds of young people. Get a reservation (you can do it online) or go some other time. Two posts give you some feel for the place, and our issues: http://romethesecondtime.blogspot.com/2010/07/planning-romes-future-modern-art-or.html and http://romethesecondtime.blogspot.com/2010/01/rst-top-40-30-zaha-hadids-maxxi.html. A third post comparing MAXXI to MACRO is at: http://romethesecondtime.blogspot.com/2012/09/the-building-warsmaxxi-vs-macro-romes.html. pp. 184-85: Private Galleries Rome’s private galleries are active and interesting, focusing on contemporary art. They vary from the mundane (e.g. artists whose parents fund their shows – we won’t out them here) to the high end (e.g. Gagosian) to cutting edge (e.g. Wunderkammern). Some of those listed in RST no longer appear to be functioning, or seem to have exhibits only sporadically. Il Ponte Contemporanea has changed location; it is now at via di Panico 55/59, still generally in the Piazza Navona area. Same telephone number. Website: www.ilpontecontemporanea.com. Romberg Art appears to have moved to another town – Latina. While we think Latina is an interesting city, it’s an hour or more out of Rome. Look for new gallery offerings on the RST blog. Periodically we cover edgier gallery openings, like the ones in Portonaccio (an upcoming post), and Wunderkammern. The latter is off via Casilina and via Tor Pignattara, at a street the new Apple maps app hasn’t found yet – via Gabriel Serbelloni, 124. The Google map is on the bilingual Web site: www.wunderkammern.net. p. 185 (and throughout this chapter): How to Find Out What’s On Rome C’è, including its Web site, bit the dust with Summer 2011. In the meantime, you will have to depend on La Repubblica, including its Thursday Trova Roma and its daily Giorno e Notte, poor substitutes. In addition, we recommend two Web sites in English – www.inromenow.com and www.buzzinrome.com, Both Joie Davison, who pilots In Rome Now and Buzz (in reality Giorgio, a London School of Economics educated newsman) are excellent at ferreting out things to do in Rome. Another very new site is www.contemporaryrome.com and it has some links to other sites that have current information. The Art/Guide described in RST still is useful, including its Web site. Because the private galleries are ever-changing (see Updates above at pp. 184-85), you should always check a current Web site for information. International Academies p. 188: Villa Borghese - The direct link to the Web site in English does not work (en.villaborghese.it). The Web site that had the link to the academies seems to have disappeared. pp. 189-90:

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The Hungarian Academy in Rome is still very active, and centrally located. The Web site has changed somewhat. Go to http://roma.balassiintezet.hu/index.php/it/ (that should get you to Italian, rather than Hugarian) and click your translator for English. It does not now seem to have an English button. Centri Sociali (Social Centers) pp. 191-92: Rialto Sant’Ambrogio in its Centro Storico location is completely defunct. For a while it appeared to be operating out of some other locations (Teatro India, the Testaccio Music School), but even that activity seems gone now. Angelo Mai, another social center, in contrast, rose more successfully from the ashes. So while not in Rome the Second Time (because we thought it wouldn’t survive), we recommend it. Its new location is not as convenient as the old one in Monti. The new one is near the Baths of Caracalla (how bad can that be?), and the programming is as good as ever. The outdoor/indoor location, though “new-ish” – as in Quonset hut type buildings – is in a great setting and works, we think. Follow directions in any guidebook to the Baths and Angelo Mai is just beyond them, across the very busy viale delle Terme di Caracalla (which runs along the baths) right after it takes a slight curve right up the hill, at No. 55/a viale delle Terme di Caracalla (“Baths of Caracalla Street”) - be sure you get the “/a” part; No. 55 is something else. You also can just take Metro B to the Circo Massimo stop and walk southwest, directly away from the Circo, towards the Baths. It’s about a 3/4 mile walk to the Baths and Angelo Mai. http://www.angelomai.org/ - in Italian, but the Google English translation produces a decent indication of what’s going on. Generally closed July-August. As of June, 2011, a new occupied space has opened – Teatro Valle Occupato, on via del Teatro Valle, 21, IN the 18th century Teatro Valle. Programming is listed in the usual places (La Repubblica, etc.). We’re not sure how long the younger generation will be allowed to “occupy” this space. Programming (in Italian) at http://www.teatrovalleoccupato.it/category/programmazione. Bookstore Entertainment p. 193: Feltrinelli’s Web site is very active and designed for online buying (an amazon.com of Italy). Buried in the site are all the entertainment activities at the various stores in Rome (11 in all). But if you try the Web site in RST you may come up dry. We suggest searching for “lafeltrinelli” and “eventi” and hope for the best. Any specific site we give you is likely to be nonworking when you try it. And, we repeat, the search is worth it. The Lion Bookshop and Café has gone out of business. This is sad. It was, to our knowledge, the longest running English language bookstore in Rome, a fixture. It simply closed one day. No notice, no background. That’s it. Gone. The fate of many independent bookstores around the world. Cinema p. 196: 13

Grauco Film Ricerca and Metropolitan both have closed. Grauco Film Ricerca, an icon of alternative Rome, located in Pigneto (before Pigneto was the hot place it is today), closed its doors June 30, 2010 after more than 30 years. In some ways, it’s the end of an era – the era of cultural collectives. Grauco’s closing statements were politically charged and fascinating. But we are pleased to report the phoenix has risen from the ashes. A collective of film lovers, including directors, put their own time and effort into completely restructuring the Grauco into a Bistro and alternative cinema, called Kino. You would never recognize the place if you were there when it was Grauco. Kino does not have as many separate offerings in versione originale as did Grauco, but Kino is more current and edgy. You can check out the offerings at http://www.ilkino.it/. It’s a “cineclub” so a “tessera” or membership is required. At Euro 7, this cineclub is worth supporting, in our view. The Metropolitan also has closed. See our post: http://romethesecondtime.blogspot.com/2011/02/another-cinema-bites-dust-in-rome-and.html. Your best bests for English-language films are Nuovo Olimpia and The Savoy. www.inromenow.com lists films in English weekly, but it will not catch places like cineclubs, as in Kino above. p. 197: How to Find Films in Roma C’è As noted above in Updates, p. 185, Roma C’è is defunct. Use www.inromenow.com to find films playing currently in English. Jazz p. 198: Finding Out What’s Playing Again, Roma C’è is defunct. Try www.inromenow.com, specific club sites, and La Repubblica’s “Giorno e notte.” pp. 199- 201: Performance Centers pp. 199, 217: Annibale Vini & Spiriti has expanded and made more permanent its outdoor space. It also has a real kitchen and a rather entertaining bartender who came in 60th of 800 people at a Niagara Falls, Canada, Texas Hold ‘em Tournament. This is a great stop after going to the MAXXI museum, even though it’s on the “back side” of MAXXI and you may have to walk around the very long block to get to Piazza dei Caracci where the wine bar is located (sometimes MAXXI’s back gate is open). Open noon – 3 p.m. and 6 p.m. – 2 a.m. Now closed Mondays and open Sundays (to go along with MAXXI we presume). You can also check out Katie Parla’s food blog for eating places, gelaterie, etc., around MAXXI: http://www.parlafood.com/. p. 200: Villa Celimontana did not open in Summer 2012 – cutbacks in government support, etc. This fabulous summer music space has been the shining light of Rome’s summer events for years, and we hope 2012 was an anomaly, but it appears not. pp. 201-03: Clubs p. 202:

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BeBop is open (again) with a reconstructed venue and more programming than before. See their Web site (in Italian) at www.bebopjazzclub.net; scroll down to get the programming. Tel. 06.57.55.582 or try shooting them at email at info@bebopjazzclub.net. 28 DiVino Jazz Club also is stronger than ever. Because it seemed likely to go under, it was not in our book. We now recommend it. Under new management, the programming is excellent. Via Mirandola, 21, near Stazione Tuscolana (San Giovanni). http://www.28divino.com/. See our post of http://romethesecondtime.blogspot.com/2010/05/28divino-jazz-club-swings-again.html. It was rated Rome’s second best jazz club in 2011, after only 2 years of new management by a French couple. Also in Trastevere, and less jazz than blues and folk, we recommend Big Mama on vicolo S. Francesco a Ripa, 18, tel. 06.581.2551; http://www.bigmama.it/. See our post for a description and 2009 prices: http://romethesecondtime.blogspot.com/2009/06/two-wine-bar-additions-club.html. Fonclea, in the Prati area (near the Vatican) is a classic spot, more vintage rock and blues, sometimes amateurish performances, sometimes quite good. Via Crescenzio 82/a, tel 06-6896302, www.fonclea.it. They’re on the river in summer. Out of the way (unless you live in the Trieste quarter, as we have) is the unique Cotton Club, with offerings of big bands and dancing. via Bellinzona 2 (at Corso Trieste) tel 06 97615246 www.cottonclub.it, closed in summer. p. 203: La Palma never reopened. Case (Houses of Culture) p. 203: The general Web site www.culturaroma.it/english still offers a lot of information (we cite it on p. 206 discussing Casa della Memoria e della Storia [House of Memory and History]). p. 204: Casa dell’Architettura (House of Architecture) still has good offerings and a lovely Web site with the same address as listed in RST, but now there is no English button. Use your translator. It’s worth it. p. 205: Casa dei Teatri (House of Theater): The cross-reference to chapter 1, Itinerary 2, and heading into Villa Pamphili is correct, except for the page number and the title of the itinerary, which are “Water and War—on the Gianicolo” and it begins on p. 32. pp. 206-07: Casa Internazionale delle Donne (International Women’s House): To find the hotel information on the revamped (but same address) Web site, click on “Forresteria” in the middle of the page. When you get to it, scroll down and you’ll see the information in English.

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Chapter 7: After Eight Appio Latino Restaurants pp. 209-10: Some kudos for the Appio Latino restaurants from a reader living nearby: “We love Zingarella's, Mithos, and Pizzeria Madia. Since we are staying at Via Fregene, these restaurants are quite close. If we eat too much, we walk home. There are other good restaurants close to our apartment, but they are a bit more pricey.” Note prices for all restaurants are from 2009 and have gone up a fair amount since then, but they all are relatively inexpensive compared to other Rome restaurants. pp. 210-11: Mithos - La Taverna dell'Allegria: now open Wednesdays but closed Sundays and Monday through lunch; prices are higher; fish available on days other than those listed. Slow Food discovered Mithos, AND Mithos discovered a wider clientele. It has moved across the piazza to Piazza Scipione Ammirato 7 and is about 4 times as large, with a view-in kitchen and modern décor. Mario is still the ever-pleasant host, and his effervescent daughter Valentina plates wonderful desserts and adds to the charm of the establishment. Same phone number, but be sure to make reservations. Every time (of any day) we’ve been in or walked by it’s been full or close to full. See our post on the new Mithos at: http://romethesecondtime.blogspot.com/2012/11/best-restaurant-in-rome-mithos-la.html. pp. 211-12: Trattoria Ada e Mario got a mention in our “Cheapest Restaurant in Rome” blog post at http://romethesecondtime.blogspot.com/2009/07/cheapest-restaurant-in-rome.html, (2009 prices). p. 212: Pizzeria La Madia now has its own Web site (in Italian): http://www.pizzerialamadia.eu/ and the telephone number is: 06.7000872. p. 213: The Taberna Recina Web site once again is functional. It’s definitely open for lunch beginning at noon, and dinner begins at 7 p.m. And if you’re at the wine bar Taberna Recina in the San Giovanni/Appio Latino area, we recommend the daily market that’s relatively newly (and, for once, nicely) installed in an enclosed building. It’s called the Latino Market (“mercato”) and it’s in Piazza Epiro. The food and wine offerings are plentiful and good. There are also a fresh pasta shop and excellent (per our readers) bakery (Ceccacci), both on via Licia that runs off the piazza. p. 214: San Crispino is also closed in winter. p. 216: 16

Pizzeria La Vignola. The map on the Web site is now under “Mappa”. Opening hours are noon – 3:30 p.m. and 7 – 11 p.m. The English flag doesn’t seem to work to produce an English Web site. pp. 216-17: Before—or After—Dinner in Flaminio Annibale Vini e Spiriti – see p. 199 above for updated information. Tree Bar – hotter than ever, but don’t try to go at an in-between time (like 3 p.m.); it’s closed. See the Web site - http://www.treebar.info/tree/HOME.html - which basically copies its Facebook page. Itinerary 15: An Evening in Pigneto p. 220: Mondays in Pigneto have improved. More spots are open on Mondays, including Infernotto. p. 221: Primo al Pigneto - Web site in Italian www.primoalpigneto.it. But you may want to check out Katie Parla’s critical review of it on her blog: www.parlafood.com. Il Tiaso is hotter than ever. See www.iltiaso.com. Click on the British flag for English translation. It has lots of music, spilling outdoors in summer. Wine Bars p. 222: Red has music and aperitivi on Sundays. Check their Web site (in Italian): http://www.redrestaurant.roma.it/html/eventi.html ADDITIONAL WINE BARS: Add to wine bars, Il Bacocco in Trastevere and Ombralonga in Marconi. . For more information on these two, see our post at http://romethesecondtime.blogspot.com/2009/06/two-wine-bar-additionsclub.html. Ombralonga is at via Oderisi da Gubbio, 41-43, tel. 06.559.4212. Tell Mauro we sent you. And they’ve been discovered by Italy’s wine and food gourmet organization, Gambero Rosso. “Mauro’s,” as we call it, is generally closed one day per week. Now if we could just recall which – we think Sundays. Il Bacocco is at via G. Mamelo, 61-62, tel. 06.589.8587; Web site (now operative; in Italian only) http://www.ilbacocco.it. Il Bacocco was named a top Rome wine bar again for 2012. At our last stop, the “finger food” (to use the Italian expression) continued to be excellent and unusual. It opens at 6 p.m. and is closed Sundays. In addition to the post above, see the one on wine tasting below under pp. 22627. pp. 224-25: Trimani il Wine Bar. There is no longer an “Incontri” heading on the Web site and they appear not to be offering scheduled wine tastings.

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Uve e forme has a good, albeit in Italian, Web site at www.uveeforme.it. They have a full schedule of dinners (generally Euro 45) and aperitivi (generally Euro 10) with producers. Once on the Web site, click on “Leggi tutto” and use your browser’s translator to get the specific information. Their general hours remain the same, but for food service, lunch is from 1 p.m., aperitivo from 6 p.m. and dinner 8:30 – 11:30 p.m. They are not open in between (e.g. from 3 - 6 p.m.). They have good wine courses, but on the expensive side. We are not sure if they offer these courses in English. You’ll have to ask. pp. 226-27 The International Wine Academy of Roma has closed its doors. Too bad. For wine classes (not for Rome-on-the-cheap – you’ll spend about Euro 50 per person), we recommend http://www.vinoroma.com/. Hande Leimer, who opened this studio, knows her stuff. We had a delightful tasting with her and Katie Parla (of www.parlafood.com) at Il Bacocco (see above) one evening. This was a Parla-organized event at Euro 15 per person. See our post at: http://romethesecondtime.blogspot.com/2011/11/food-and-wine-happenings-in-rome.html.

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