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ALBERT H. MANN LIBRARY


Cornell University

Gift of
Thomas Bass
CORNELL UNIVERSITY LIBRARY

3 1924 073 878 708


Cornell University
Library

The original of tiiis bool< is in

tine Cornell University Library.

There are no known copyright restrictions in


the United States on the use of the text.

http://www.archive.org/details/cu31924073878708
The PICAYUNE'S
Creole
Cook Book
FOURTH EDITION

^^^^HE Qviestion of 'a good cook' is now be-


'
'

t 1 coming a very vexing problem. The only


^^^ remedy for this state of things is for the
ladies of the present day to do as their
grandmothers did, acquaint themselves
thoroughly with ,tlie art of cooking in all its im-
portant and minutest details, and learn how to
properly apply them. To assist the good house-
wives of the present day in this, to preserve to
future generations the many excellent and match-
less recipes of our New Orleans cuisine, to gather
these up from the lips of the old Creole negro
cooks and the grand old housekeepers who still
survive,;* ere they, too, pass away, and 'Creole
Cookery, With all its delightful combinations and
possibilities, will have become a lost art, is, in a
measure, the object of this book. :: :: :: :: ::

Retail Price at picayune office, , - $ 1 .00

By Registered Mail, - - $1.25

Copyright 1901, 1906 and 1910 by

THE PICAYUNE, - NEW ORLEANS, LA.

Picayune Job Print


The PICAYUNE'S CREOLE
COOK BOOK

INTRODUCTION.

/^^ HE universal favor with which the first editions of THE


/j PICAYUNE'S CREOLE COOK BOOK were received
^^J^ throughout the United States, the remarkably short
time in which they were exhausted, and the numerous
demands for copies that are continually coming in from all sec-

tions, has impelled the publishers to issue a Fourth Edition of this


work.

The Revised Edition has been prepared with great care.

Each recipe that has been added has been tried and tested and is

^iven as the result of personal practical experience and success


in the Cteole Kitchen. The topics have been more conveniently
and systematically classified and arranged, the niethods of prepa-
.

ration and manipulation in many instances simplified, and the


edition, in its entirety, will therefore be found far more complete,
comprehensive and valuable than the first.

With these explanations THE PICAYUNE sends forth the


Creole Cook Book. Its name tells its story and bespeaks its

value. It is

THE ONLY BOOK OF THE KIND.


I'm the Picayune's Weather Trophct,
It's Froggie so faithful ami true
;

"Xante Zoe'' has asked me to help her


In serving so nicely to you,
The dishes The Picayune bade her
Prepare as a Creole cook can,
That men might grow wiser and better,
And happiness reign in the land.
INTRODUCTION
TO THE FIRST EDITION

^MWr N PRESENTING to the public this Creole Cook Book, The Picayune
II, is actuated by the desire to fill a want that has long been felt,

|l New
H not only in
ago reduced
country
to
Orleans, where the art of good cooking
a positive science, but in
where the fame of our Creole cuisine has spread, and
many sections
was long
of the

with slight modification incident to local supplies of food articles, many of


our most delightful recipes may be adapted by the intelligent housekeeper with
profit and pleasure.
Time was when the question of a Creole Cook Book would have been, as
far as New Orleans is concerned, as useless an addition to our local literature
as it is now a necessity, for the Creole negro cooks of nearly two hundred
years ago, carefully instructed and directed by their white Creole mistresses,
who received their inheritance of gastronomic lore from France, where the
art of good cooking first had birth, faithfully transmitted their knowledge to
their progeny,and these, quick to appreciate and understand; and with a keen
intelligenceand zeal born of the desire to please, improvised and improved
upon the product's of the cuisine of Louisiana's mother country then came ;

the Spanish domination, with its influx of rich and stately dishes, brought over
by the grand dames of Spain of a century and a half ago after that came ;

the gradual amalgamation of the two races on Louisiana sdil, and with this
was evolved a new school of cookery, partaking of the best elements of the
French and Spanish cuisines, and yet peculiarly distinct from either, a system
of cookery that has held its- own through suceeodiug generations and which
drew from even such a learned authority as Thackeray, that noted tribute
to New Orleans, "the old Franco- Spanish city on the banks of the Mississippi,
where, of all the cities in the world, you can eat the most and suffer the least,
where claret is as good as at Bordeaux, and where a 'ragout' and a 'bouilla-
baisse' can be had, the like of which was never eaten in Marseilles or Paris.''

But the Civil War, with its vast upheaval of social conditions, wrought
great changes in the household economy of New Orleans, as it did throughout
the South ; here, as elsewhere, she who had ruled as the mistress of yestei'day,
became her own cook of to-day ; in nine cases out of ten the younger darkies
accepted their freedom with alacrity, but in many ancient families the older
Creole "negresse," as they were called, were slow to leave the haunts of the
old cuisine and the families of which they felt themselves an integral part,
Many and the young girls who grew up after that period had
lingered on,
opportunities that will never again come to the Creole girls of New Orleans.
For one of J:he most significant changes and one of the saddest, too, in this
old city, is the passing of the faithful old negro cooks the "mammies," who
felt it a pride and honor, even in poverty, to cling to the fortunes of their

former masters and mistresses, and out of the scant family allowance to be
still able to prepare for their "ole Miss' " table a "ragout" from a piece of

neck. meat, or a "pot-au-poivre" from many mixturees that might grace the
dining of a king.
But the "bandana and tignon" are fast disappearing from our kitchens.
Soon will the last of the olden negro cooks of ante-bellum days have passed
away and their places will not be supplied, for in New Orleans, as in other
cities of the South, there is "a new colored woman" as well as a new white.
The question of "a good cpok" is now becoming a very vexing problem ,
and
the' onlyremedy for this state of things is for the ladies of the present day
to do as their grandmothers did, acquaint themselves thoroughly with the
art of cooking in all its important and minutest details, and learn how to
properly apply them. To assist them in this, to preserve to future generations
the many and matchless recipes of our New Orleans cuisine, to
excellent
gather these up from the lips of the Old Creole negro cooks and the grand old
houskeepers who still survive, ere they too, pass away, and Creole cookery,
with all its delightful combinations and possibilities, will have become a lost
art, is, in a measure, the object of this book.
But far and above this. The Picayune, in compiling this book, has been
animated by the laudable desire to teach the great mass of the public how to
live cheaply and well. The moral influences of good cooking cannot be too
forcibly insisted upon. is an old saying that "the way to a man's heart
There
is Every housewife knows the importance of setting a
through his stomach."
well-cooked meal before her husband if she' wishes him to preserve his
equanimity of tempeii. Every mother should know the importance of pre-
paring good, nutritious dishes for, her children in the most palatable and appe-
tizing manner, if she would give them that most precious of all gifts "a
healthy mind in a healthy body." People are the better, the happier and the
longer lived for the good, wholesome, well-cooked daily meal.
The introduction, then, of the art of good cooking into every household
and a general, intelligent knowledge of the nutritive qualities of food sub-
stances, are ends greatly to be desired, for the- best food often loses half its
value through the faults displayed in preparation, while, on the other hand,
simple and plain dishes may be so cooked that they will acquire a flavor and
a nutritive value through special combinations that will please the most deli-
cate appetities. Among all classes to-day there is a deplorable and constant
waste. Among the rich, the sole aim, of what appears to be good cookery,
seems rather an effort to tempt by a succession of highly-seasoned and savory
food and to consume to excess while among the poor and middle classes living
;

and cooking seem to go on as best they may, with little variety from day to
day, and still less care and preparation, indeed, the food is often cooked in
such a way that ready digestion becomes an impossibility, and a large portion
of the nutriment is either wasted or destroyed utterly.
;

It is proposed in this booli to assist the housekeepers generally to set


.

a dainty and appetizing table at a moderate outlay ; to give recipes clearly


and accurately with simplicity and exactness, so that the problem of "how to
live," may become easier of solution and even the most ignorant and inex-

perienced cook may be able to prepare a toothsome and nutritious meal with
success. The housekeeper is not told "to take some of this, a little of that,"
and "a pinch" of some other ingredient she is not left to the chance of ;

guessing accidentally at the proper proportions of component parts of any


dish, but the relative proportions of all ingredients are given with accuracy,
the proper length of time required for cooking different dishes. In all the
recipes the quantities are given for u, family of six.. The intelligent houses
heeper will thus 6e aile to form a happy medium and increase or reduce
proportionately according to the size of her family, the numler of invited
'

guests, etc. r- *
j

The Picayune's Creole Cook Booh is not designed for chefs of cuisines
it has! been prepared with special appreciation of the wants of the household
and of that immense class of housekeepers who, thrown upon their own re-
sources and anxious to learn, are yet ignorant of the simplest details of
good cooking for young housekeepers who are left to "experience" for a
;

teacher, and who often learn only after many disheartening failures arid a
great outlay and waste of good material, and for the public generally, who,
as a rule, have yet to learn that in a well-regulated kitchen nothing is ever
wasted, but with careful preparation even the "rough-ends" of a beef steak
may be made into a wholesome, tender and appetizing dish ; that "stale bread"
may be used in the most delicious "desserts" and "farcies," and "left-over"
food from the day before need not be thrown in the trash-box, but may be
made into an endless variety of wholesome and nutritious dishes.

Hence, especial care has: been taken to rescue from oblivion many fine

old-fashipned dishes, and bring them back into general use dishes whose
places can never be equaled by elegant novelties or fancifully extravagant
recipes ; special attention has been given to the siiiple, every-day home dishes
of the Creole household, while those that tempted the gourmet and epicureans
in the palmiest da^fs of old Creole cookery have not been omitted. The
Picayune points with pride to the famous "soupes," "gumbos," "ragouts," "en-
tremets," "hors d'oeuvres," "jambalayas" and "desserts," that in turn receive
particular attention. A special chapter has been devoted to the science of
making good coffee "a la Creole," and one to the modes of cooking Louisiana
rice. The consumption of rice has increased enormously Of late, and it will
continue to become more and more popular as. an article of food when the
people in the North and West learn how to cook it, and understand how
largely it enters into a variety of delightful and dainty combinations. Our
"Galas," our "Pralines," and "Pacane Amandes," our "Marrons Glaces," and
Ices, and our "Meringues," and our delicious ways of serving Louisiana

oranges peculiar to ourselves alone, are given in respective order. The history
of many dishes is also given, thus affording a glimpse into old Creole hospi-
tality, customs and traditions. Commendable features are the series of menus
for holidays and daily suggestions for the table, as also the thoroughly classi-
fied list of seasonable foods.
;;

Throughout this ' work The Picayune has had but one desire at heart, and
that is to reach the wants of every household in our cosmopolitan community
to show the earnest houskeeper how the best food may be prepared at the
least cost, and how it is possible for every family, from the palace to the

cottage, to keep a good taole and at the same time an economical one.
"Whatever is worth doing at all is worth doing well." If this is true of
other things, how much more of cooking, upon which the life and health of the
family depend. The kitchen should not be looked upon as a place of drudgery
a poet once sung of

"Making drudgery divine j


Who sweeps a room as to God's laws.
Makes that and the action fine."

The benefits that will ultimately accrue to every family, morally and
physically, from paying greater attention to the proper preparation of food
cannot be overestimated ; the fact that good cooking operates to the greatest
extent in the preservation of the domestic peace and happiness of a family
cannot be gainsaid. That this Creole Cook Book may find its way to many
hearths and homes, and that the life of the household may be the better,
healthier and happier for its advent, is the wish of

THE nCAYUNE.
tCbe jpiicaisune'e Creole
Cook Book.
(Fourth Edition)

CHAPTER I.

CREOLE} COFFBQ.
Cafe a. la CrSole.

A good cup of Ci-eole Coffee. the best preventives of infectious


Is there anything liif the whole diseases, and the ancient Creole phy-
range of food substances to be com- sicians never used any other deodo-
pared with it? And is there any rizer than passing a chafing dish
city in the world where coffee is so with burning grains of coffee through
delightfully concocted as in New Or- the room. As an antidote for poison
leans? Travelers the world over the uses of coffee are too well known
unite in praise of Creole Coffee, 6r to be dilated upon.
Caf a la Creole," as they are fond Coffee is also the greatest brain
of putting it. The Creole cuisini- food and stimulant known. Men of
eres succj^edea far beyond even the science, poets and scholars and jour-
nalists, have testified to its benefi-
famous chefs of France in discover- cial effects.
ing the secret of good coffee-making, Coffee suppo^rted the
old age of Voltaire, and enabled Fon-
and they have never yielded the palm tenelle to reach his one hundredth
of victory. There is no place in the
birthday. Charles Gayarre, the il-
'world in w^hicb the use oX coffee is
lustrious Louisiana historian, at the
more general than in the old advanced age of eighty, paid tribute
Creole city of New Orleans, where, to the Creole cup of "Cafe Noir."
from the famous French Market, Among advanced scientists it is rap-
with its world-renowned coffee
idly taking the place of digitalis in
stands, the olden homes on the
to
the treatment of certain cardiac af-
Bayou St. John, from Lake Pontch- fections, and the basis of black, oaf- -

artrain to the verge of SouthpdTt, fee, "cafffeine," enters largely into


the cup. of "Caf Noir," or -"Caf6 au medicinal compositions. Coffee is
X.ait," at morning, at noon and at now classed by physicians as an aux-
night, has become a necessary and iliary food substance, as retard-
delightful part of the life of the ing the waste of nerve tissue and
people, and the wonder and the joy acting with peculiarly strengthening
of visitors. effect upon the nervous and vascular
The morning cup of CafS Noir i system.
an integral part of the life of a Cre- How important, then, is the art of
ole household. The Creoles hold as
making good coffee, entering, as it
a physiological fact that this custom does, so largely into the daily life of
contributes to longevity, and point,
the American people. There is no
day after day, to examples of old reason why the secret should be con-
men and women of fourscore, and fined to any section or city^ but, with
over, who attest to the powerful aid
a little care and attention, every
they have received through life from household in the land may enjoy its
a good, fragrant cup of coffee In the morning or after-dinner cup of cof-
early morning. The ancient resi-
fee with as much real pleasure as the
dents hold, too, that, after a hearty Creoles of New Orleans and the thou-
meal, a cup of "Cafg Noir," or black sands of visitors who yearly migrate
coffee, will relieve the sense of op-
to this old Franco-Spanish city.
pression so apt to be experienced,
It is, therefore, with pardonable
and enables the stomach to perform
Jts functions with greater facility.
pride that the Picayune begins thla
Cafg Noir is known, too, as one of Creole Cook Book by introducing ita
'

10

will bear in mind that absolute


clean-
readers into a typical Creole kitchen in-
where "Tante Zo," in the early liness is as necessary for the
morning hour, in her quaint, guinea- terior" of the coffee pot as for the
shining "exterior." This fact is one
blue dress and bandana "tignon," is
carefully concocting the morning cup too commonly overlooked, and-, y^t
ot the coffee pot .Requires more .than, or-
din-ary care,- for -the reason .that the
'
CAFfi NOIR. chemical action 'of the coffee upon
And
the first she will tell you, this the tin or agate tends to create a
old CrSole NSgresse, as she busies substance wh|eh collects and clings
herself parching to a beautiful brown to every crevice. and seam, and, natu-
the jiiorning portion of green coffee, rally, in the course of time will af-
that the secret of good coffee lies in fect the flavor of the coffee most
having peculiarly and unpleasantly. Very
often the fact that the coffee tastes
Tlie Best Ingredients and in tlie bitter or muddy arises from this
^
Proper Making. fact. The "inside" of the coffee pot
should,- therefore, be washed as
By the best ingredients she means carefully "every day" as the outside.
mose delightful coffees grown on Having observed these conditions,
well-watered mountain slopes, such ,

proceed to make the coffee according


as the famous Java and Mocha cof- to the following unfailing
fees. must be of the best quality,
It
the Mocha and Java mixed producing Creole Rule.
a. concoction of a most delightful
aroma and stimulating effect. She Havethe water heated to a good
will tell you, too, that one of the boil. Set the coffee pot in froiit Of
first essentials is to "Parch the Cof- the stove; never on top, as the coffee
fee Grains jTJst Before Making the will boil, and thert th'e taste is de-
Coffee," because coffee that has bee.i stroyed.
loiig parched and left standing loses Allow- one cup,' or the ordinary^
its flavftr and 'strengthi The coffee mill, of coffee to' mak6 four" '4:o'3J'^
grains should "Be Roasted to a Rich' cups of the liquid,- grounij and 'put'
Brown," and never allowed to scorch- in the -strainer,' being-.. earefuV"' to"
or burn, otherwise the flavor of the keep both the strain^r'-atid the' spout
coffee is at once affected or de- of the coffee-pot covered; to ptJSV6nt
stroyed. Good coffee should never be the flavor from escaping. Pour,-flr-st,
boiled. Bear this io- mind, that the about two tablespoonfuls- of the
NEVER
.

GOoD. CREJOL.B COOK boiling water on the .coffee groiitids,

B9P..S COFFEE; but insists on -drip- or, according to th- quantity of coffee
ping it,,in- at,<foyered strainer, sWwly, used, just sufficient - to '
settle -the'
slowly iPRIE, DBIPjDRJP^.till .al-l grounds. Wait about five minlUtBX^f-'
'
the flavor is extracted. then pour a-, little .more-^-waiter, -anfl"
To reach this desired end, immedi- allow it to -drip sloiWy'.thisottgh.i-but'
ately after the coffee has been never pour water the .-second ti-me3
roasted and allowed to cool in a until the grounds have ceased to puff
covered dish, so that none of the or bubble, as this- is an indication
flavor will escape, the coffee is that the grounds have settled. Keep

ground neither too fine, for that pouring slowly, at -intervals, a-littie
will make the coffee dreggy; nor too boiling water at -a time, until the
coarse, for that prevents the escape d-elightful aroma of the coffee. begins'
of the. .full strength of ;the coffee to escape from the closed spout PS-
Juice
but a careful medium pro- the coffee- pot. If the coffee dyes
portion, --which will not allow the the- cup, it is a little too strong; but
hot wa-ter pouring to- run rapidly do not go far beyond this, or thft, .

through, but which will admit o coffee will be too weak. "When you
the water percolating -slowly through- have produced a rich, ."fragrabt..con-
and through the grounds, extracting coction, whose delightful arora,a;/;fill-,
ever^y bit -of the strength ..a.iid aropa, ing thfe rootn,'.is. ,a -Cdnst^At, te-iipting,
and falling steadily wifela ""a drip! iVlYit'aitloh. to'.'ta.stfi.'it, ^?,erve"iiai';.tine;
drip!" into the coffee pot. china cups, u.s'irig n'n' preferghc.e TttaA"
To make good coffee, the water sugar for sweetening. Ypii '^a've!
must be, "freshly boiled," and must
:
then a real cup of the faraoifs i;>^di#
never, be- poured upon the grounds Cafe Noir, so.^_ ext,en.3ively usad,' at,"
.

until it has reached the good boil-- morning .d.aiS^n, 'at breaktast,, and'.as
ing point, otherwise the flavor is de- the ."afterdinner cup.""
stroyed, and subsequ.*n;t:'pourings of .If the .coffee appears/m-ud'ijjc, or^n'ot.
boiling-.-water can -never quite suc- clear, some, of the old- Creoje^
"drDP
ceed .in. 'extracting- the superb a piece qf charcoaVaij. .i.nch-thi'oi.'in-
strength and aroma -which disting- to. the, water, w-hioh s^t.tles7it'.^n,4
^t.
uish the., good cup of coffee. once- makes it clear. Oem^igtra^ions
. It. is of the .greatest-. Importajjce. prove that" strength rema(:;}s'.;,i'n. the'
that "The Coffee. Pot" Be Kept iPsr-' aoffee grounds. A ma1;ter of e'^ynonjy'
fectly Clean," and the good cook in making coffee is to save the
11

grounds from the meal or day before sweet and fresh cream, allowing a
and boil these, in a half gallon of half cup -of cream to a half .cup of
water. Settle the grounds by drop- coffee. The millt should always be
ping two or three drops of cold wa- boiled, and the cream very hot. If
ter in, &,nd pour~The water over the the cream is not fresh and sweet, it
fresh grounds. This is a suggestion will curdle the coffee, by reason of
that rich and poor might heed with the heat. Catg au Lait is a great
profit. breakfast drink in New Orleans,
while Cafg Noir Is more generally
CAF;e AU LAIT.
the early morning and the afternoon
Proceea in the same manner as in drink.
the making of "Cafe Noir," allowing Having thus bid its readers "Good
the usual Quantity of boiling water morning," and- drank with them a
to the amount of coffee used. Wlien cup of Cafe Noir, the Picayune will
made, pour the coffee into delicate proceed to discuss Creole Cookery
china cups, allowing a half cup of in all its "forms, frofn soup "a, la Cre-
coffee to each cup. Serve, at the ole," to "paoandes amandes" anJ
same time, a -small pitcher of very "praliiis."

CHAPTER II.

:-.-.i SOUPS. '-

General Directions for Makjng Soup The Pot-ia,.u-Feu, -tlae Bouillon


" - and the (^onsdnimfc' '' "- >:' '
Uncooked meat the .base of all is the making .of good souj),;din the first
soups, except such as- tlie Creoles I plai'e, the soup must never stop boil-
call "Mai-gre," or fast-day soups. i
ing one instant until done; secondly,
These delightf-al ^'Creatrf SoupB;' or once the soup. is started; water must
Purges, will be sp'SblSiry trfekted la- I

I rte^^far be adtfcd, 'Neither, on the other


ter. They enteV largely into the do- handii mus.t.'.the' 59UP- -be allowed;. tOi
mestic life of New Orleans, as also
;

I
boil rapidly, or it will bemULddy and,
more particularly the Pot-au-Feu, ; lose; much of its flavor anJ strengihf
the Bouillon and the -!p6ns6mm6. '
by,:.eiVa.piorationi The. "soup bone,"i
These three are the "mother-soups," or',"bou111ii" as we call it down Jhere.-
for upon their careful preparation, in New Orleans, must be -,put on in,
depend, taste, .flavor and the entire cold water, and must-
without salt,
problem pf good soup-making. heat slowly-,-: The pot must be kept
.

The, ancient Creoles preserved with well covered, and no ,salt must be
few mbdlAeatjons many of the cus- added until the meat is. .thoroughly-
toms of their French ancestors.
"
cooked, as the addition of salt tends
Among .these, was, the daily plate
;

"
'

to harden the fibers of the moat and


of soup. .' . prevents the free flow of the juices,
In- France soup, enters far more, At no stage of the proceeding must
largely into the l,ife of the people the soup be allowed to boil fast. If
than-^t\, this.- old French city o^ New the bone has been fractured every
QrlealijIlThe mprning cup of bouillon inch of its^ length,' the soup will be
lS,Be,r'{jf^in the" jjnost exclusive homeis, ,
ai,l tjje stronger and more nutri-
A-c)i(^^,ftf cla,r,et,g.iid-.,a-plat6 of .good., tious, The^-beef .shouja b^ selected
soup is the essential morning portioiijr fQ,r ?fts,'';duality,'';as .f'r^'^Tly' ^iUed as
of _
peasantry. Soup is always
the possible, and' prefefabl3^.;o.f 'the' eiit,'

served at dinner from palace to h3Vri known by butcliers" as' "Tlib Htjrse-'
*1, Ap'.i.in,. the "dfiliceus^' cup of shoe,"', Tp be ^inost nutritious the
^.rM iioLi' is served ,a.t teas and.
,
soup , bpir a long time. The
sho'illd
soirees ;n old France just-a^ served Creoles, jj^'ver .feerve soUp that .lia's;
to-day in .its ancient colony pp jtl^e been, cbb'kiri'g, less than five or seven
hanks of i'ne Mississippi. The Cre-
. , ,
hours,', according to the' quantity' to
, ,

oles relegated the. morning cup of be served. In a well-regulate'cl


bouillon,, biii retained the, daily sery.- ,'
household, the soup is put on at
ing of sous atdi,nner, ajj,,,tin:ve" intro- br^e^fa^t time, in the rear o the
ducing, as .i^'l.trequent sujjstitute tha,t, stove,.,^hd allow'p'4 .to .cook slowly f,6r
exclusive, Cr^flle Gflncpjtion, ,pj^ml)o. ,
-fp.tir, pr_'^,fiye. ^.JiOu^, until , the. tirne'
No dinne'-V is ,cpnsi.dered., cc^mplete cpnie's' fo'r ,
piittitj^_'ijjl ,-the dinnej-'
without cither. The custom" has-been proper. In ., the fire
'th'e ipea,nt,ithe,
sustairijca. .<gnd jidopte(J by. A'niei;fean
,
has,, 'tq^^ rep,lenJshed ;|lPwly ,frbrh
residetits ,^f N^fv;s.Qrieans.,. The,,Qre- ,
! tj'm'q to time,' ;'sp, that ^hen the 'mo-
,
-

ole- houswi^e\lays
. the. grea.f^est nxenj.jto'r', add.i'n_g', the, vegetables^ 'dr
stress unon two' great essentials In '

other ingredients
'
arrives, the

strength oJ.^,the meat has been nearly taste. The every day SSuillon is
"

or quite extracted. made by boiling the soup bone for


The two suggestions, "Never al- four or five hours, skimming care-
low the soup to cease boiling when fully as the scum rises; and adding,
once it has begun, and never to add as it starts boiling well, the vegeta-
water after the ingredients are once bles contained in the "soup bunch."
put together and begin to boil," If vermicelli, macaroni or other soup
have been called the "Golden Rule" is desired, such as can be made from
of soup-making. The housekeeper the simple Bouillon, or Pot-au- Feu,
should take them to heart, for upon these ingredients are added In the
their strict observance depends that proportions mentioned in the special
boon to poor, suffering humanity receipt for these soups, and the soup
a good plate of soup. It these rules is boiled an hour or so longer.
are learned and reliably followed,
the first step has been taken to- The Herb Bouquet.
wards setting a good dinner.
It might be added here that while Every good Creole cook keeps on
soup stock is of general use in colder hand an "herb bouquet," made of a
climates, and can be made and kept spray of parsley, a sprig of thyme,
for several days, the warm tropical celery, parsley and bay leaf. These
climate of New Orleans precludes are tied together, and constitute the
this, as the stock would become "bouquet." It will flavor a gallon
sour; the soup broth must, therefore, of soup. If cooked for an hour.
be prepared fresh every day.
Rice flour, arrowroot or corn- POT-AU-FEUvA LA ORfiOLE.
starch mixed .''T*ith aC little water
,

4 Pounds of Leah Beef.


are often used to thicken soups;
6 Quarts of CJoId Water.
but every good Creole cook knows 2 Small Turuips. 2 Onions. 2 Carrots.
that the soup that Is properly made 1 Parsnip. 1 Cup of Cut-up Tomatoes.
needs no thickening. Salt should be 2 Whole Cloves.
used sparingly, as also spices, which 1 Bay Leaf. IClove of Garlic. 5 Allspice.
should always be usd whole. 2 Irish Potatoes.
To be palatable, soup must be Small Piece of Lemon Peel.
served very hot. Small Piece of Red Pepper Pod.
It Is generally estimated that In Buuch of Celery Leaves (Chopped.)
preparing soups a pound of meat Bunch of Parsley (Chopped.)
sirouid be allowed for every (art o Pinch of Salt^. Pinch of Black Pepper.
Sprig of Cabbage.
water. In the following recipes the
Ingredients must be increased pro- This Pot-au-Feu, properly made,
portionatelyi according to the num- is truly delicious, savory and dell-
ber of Tpesseits to bc-iseTved. The In- caiely odorous. The best cut for
telligent housekeeper can readily du- this is from the round low^er end of
termine the exact measurements the beef. It is important to have
needed in her family, increasing pro- good beef, and that it be as freshly
portions when guests are expected killed as can be had. Many of the
at the family table. Creoles add the beef spleen or
The Every-DHy Pot-au-Feu, or brisket to the soup. This Is rich and
juicy, and gives nutritive value to
Simple Bouillon. the dish. If -delicacy is preferred to
richness in the soup, the marrow
The Pot-au-Feu, or Bouillon, is bone is omitted. Put the meat into
made by boiling a good soup bone cold water, heating by slow degrees
which has been
carefully selected in order that it may gradually pen-
for its nutritive qualities in water etrate the meat, softening It and dis-
a certain length of time, by means of solving the non-nutritive portion,
which the nutriment is extracted. which rises to the top of the liquid
Bouillon of the best quality can only as a scum. As the scum becomes
be made from good meat, which thicker remove it. After having
should be chosen from the fleshy. skimmed well, set the soup back
Juicy part of the thigh. Meat from where it can be kept on a, gentle
the, breast or lower ribs makes- gt>oct but steady, boil; when the soup is
Pot-au-Feu, but of a lighter quality, well skimmed, add the vegetables,
and is preferred by some Creole which have been cut to proper fine-
cuisiniSres. ness, and a little salt to suit the
The vegetables used are found in taste, and let the soup continue to
the "soup bunch" sold by every New boil from five to six hours, remem-
Orleans butcher, and carefully ar- bering strictly the two essential
ranged. The bunch comprises pieces rules given. By following this recipe
of cabbage, a turnip or two, carrots, you will have an excellent soup for
parsley, celery and onion. Many of family use.
the most famous Creole cooks add The Creoles often serve the Pot-
garlic and cloves, thyme, bay leaf au-Feu with small squares of dry or
and allspice. But this is a matter of toasted bread, put Into the tureen
13

and the hot soup is poured over thein ure about three quarts for. family
at the moment'-of serving, use. If you decide not to clarify the
Should the-ilaV*r of the garlic, soup, set it aside and let It settle,
allspice, clovesor bay leaf be disa- then carefully pour off the upper
greeable, they may be omitted. But portion, but do not shake the bowl or
they are essential ingredients of tlie disturb the sediment. Tlie Creoles
Creole Pot-au-Feu. then add about a tablespoonful ol
A particularly delicate flavor is celery and a little cayenne. Th's
often obtained by adding to the beef soup requires no artificial coloring,
some pieces of raw fowl, or the re- its own strength and long boiling
mains of a cooked fowl, more espe- producing a beautiful tint. Should
cially the carcass. But never add a greater quantity be required, the ,

remains of mutton, pork or veal, as housekeeper will guide herself ac-


these meats impart an acrid odor, cording to the proportions given in
detracting from the perfection of this receipt.
the Pot-au-Feu.
To Clarify Bouillon.
BOUILi,ON.
To clarify Bouillon, remove the fat
To make a good Bouillon is an art and pour the broth into a clear ket-
in itself. It is the soup that most tle. Add the crushed shells of two
frequently, after the Pot-au-Feu, en- eggs. Stir this into the cold soup
ters Into the economy of the Creole until well mixed. Set it on the fire,
household. It is not only used in the and from the moment it begins to
daily menu, but on occasions of fam- boil let it cook steadily ten minutes
ily reunions and soirfies, is served longer. Set it back on the stove or
cold or warm always
in cups. It is hearth for four or flve minutes to
prepared in a concentrated form for settle. Then strain it through a
the use of invalids. In illness, where towel. Allow the Bouillon to drip,
the quantity administered is required remembering never to squeeze the
to be as nutritious as possible, the bag. A
very clear soup is never a
round steak should always be chosen very nutritious one.
for the Bouillon, and It is decidedly
better -not to clear the soup, as the CONSOMME.
pi-ocess of clearing not only destroys 6 Pounds of Lean Beef.
a great deal- of ttte-i delicate flavor, 2 Laige-Sized Onions.
but also of tfier-nutriment contained 2Carrots. 2- Stalks Celery.
In the BoUilloW/r- 1 Piece of Obbage.,^
Select good fi5gs-h beef, and where Salt and Cayenne tn Taste."
intended for arf' invalid allow two A Consommg is a clear soup.
pounds of beef to every quart of wa- Select six pounds of leh.n beef,
ter. The B(j^lon should always rump and some bones, and cut
of beef
boil from six ito seven hours. For the meat into small pieces, the bones
dinners, luncheons, etc., the follow- also being mashed. Put this on in
ing proportions may be used: about six quarts of cold water, and,
when it comes to a boil, skim well.
6 POiinda of Beet, without Bone or Fat. Then add a teaspoonful of salt tJ
6 Quarts of Cola Water. _
help the scum rise more thoroughly,
4 Cloves. Allspice.
A Small Cup of Fresli or Canned Tomatoes. and skim as it rises.
Take
1 Teaspoon of Salt. two large sized onions, two
1 Spoon of Celery Seed. carrots, a piece of cabbage and two
I Bay Leaf. pieces of celery; chop fine and add
A Piece of Red Pepper I'od, without Seeds. to the soup, and let it boil six hours,
(Omit for the Sick.) or until the broth is reduced about
1 Clove of Garlic (omit for the Sick.) one-half the quantity. By this time
Put these ingredients into the soup the meat should be cooked into rags.
kettle, after the has been Bouillon Pass all through a colander and then
brought to a boil. Then set aside strain through a coarse flannel cloth.
and let it simmer gently, but never Season highly with Cayenne pepper
allow the soup to rack. After two and salt to the taste. If the meat is
and a. half hours add good, the soup will be perfectly
clear. If it is cloudy or muddv be-
A
Sprig of Thyme.
fore straining, crush the shells of
1 Onion
cut In pieces. -

1 Small Bunch of Celery, If you have not two eggs and put them into the soup
used tbe seed. and let it come to a good boil. Set
1 Medium-Sized Carrot, chopped fl^e. it back about ten minutes and then
strain. Add vermicelli, or -macaroni,
Replace the cover and let tlie '
br pats,-'=a;cooTding to' taste. Th-:s
Bouillon boil gently for two and one- soup will require no artificial col-
half hours more, making flve hours of oring.
actual boiling when not intended for
.,
'' ',-$'j Colorings for Soap,
Invalid use. At this stage, from the
quantity of ingredients used in the Having given the recipes for the
above recipe, the Bouillon will meas- "mother soups," which are the bases
u
of soups, a word must be said
all Caramel.
about colorings for soup. While
colorings bave been extensively Take about a half pint of brown
used in New Orleans, the good old sugar, put it in a pan, on a slow me,
Creoles long ago found out that and let it burn or parch, slowly
coloring matter,, whether in liatiid stirring all the time. When it turns
form or in balls or tablets, detracted a dark brown, add two pints of wa-
.from the. good flavor of the soup, ter and stir well, and then bottle.
and that a properly made soup need- Put it away and use a. few drops at
ed no coloring. The good Bouillon a time to color and thicken gravies
has a color peculiar to itself a red- and soup broths. Or. take a large
dish yellow, which comes from the raw onion, skin and all, and thrust
juice of the meat. The absence of into the burning coals. When it be-
.natural color In the soup indicates gins to brown well, take out of the
that too small an amount of meat coals, dust off all the ashes and
has been used in proportion to th; throw into the soup- or gravy. This
water, a poor quality of meat, or will give all the coloring that is
there has been a too rapid process needed.
of boiling. Still, if colorings are
desired, the foUowijlg recipe, which More simple or satisfactory recipes
is free from the deleterious co.n- cannot be .found. Nevertheless, th^e
pounds sold in siores, has long been Creoies jnaintain', and. demonstrate
used by the .Creoles for coloring that' the best ooltjring for soups is
gravies, and may be used with good
that .prb'dueed iry good material and
e.tfect.'in soups.' It. is ca.lled by the
preoles ,r. . .
long boiling. .

CHAPl'lSRIII.
MEAT SOUPS.

Julienne Soup. '^ plePot-au-Peu being most generally


Potage la JuU'enrtfe.
A half hour before -serving
lused.'
"it
add the vermicelli to the broth, and
5 rounds of Lean Beef. 5 Quarts tit Water. serve hot.
2 T'Jl'Uips.' 2 Carrots. 2 Onions.
2 Leelis. A Suaall Stalk- of Culery. nincnroni Soup.
3 Tomatojes.
A Small nalf-Heaa of Wliite Cabbage. Potage au Macaroni.
1 Gill of areen Peas.,
2 Quarts of Broth.
The shin of the beef is tli'e best to 14 Pound of Macaroni.
make a good Julienne ss'up. Set the Prepare a good Pot-au-Feu, or
beef and water in a close vessel Bouillon, according to directions giv-
where they will heat gradually. Af- en, and allowing a quarter of a pound
ter boiling five or six hours add the of macaroni to- two q.uarts of broth.
fol-lowing vegetables, which have Break the macaroni into two-inch
been carefully prepared according to length pieces and add to the boiling
these directions: Cut the vegetables broth about a half hour or so before
into long, thin shreds. Take a table-
serving. Some housekeepers cook the
spoonful of lard, heat and add the macaroni seperately in salted boiling
vegetables, letting them fry or water about ten or fifteen minutes
smother until a'golden brown. Then draining
add to the boiling broth. If fresh thoroughly, and dropping
into the boiling broth about fifteen
peas are used they must be boiled minutes before serving. The soup is
apart. If canned peas, simply add to
often served with Parmesan cheese,
the broth, after throwing in the veg- grated. But this is not necessary.
etables. Let them cook in the broth
one hour longer- and serve hot with
the 'vegetables. Tapioca Soup.
,
Verjnicelll Soup. Potage au Tapioca.
G-onsonlmg, ou Potage au Vermicelle. 4 Ounces of Tapioca. 3 Quarts of Broth.
'-% Pint of Broth to Each
Person.""
To three quarts of broth add, about
1 Oiiijce of Vermicelli to Each Person. forty minutes before serving, four
ounces of tapioca. The tapioca
'

Prepare a good Bouillon, or Pot- should be previously soaked a few


au-Feu, or Consommg, according to hours. Stir frequently in the broth
the taste of the household, the sim- while boiling, and serve hot.
Sngo Soup. of Consomme, if you have it; if not,
Potage au Sago. Ave quarts of boiling water and
three tablespoonfuls of barley. Let
3 rints of Eroth. it cook together about four hours,
2 OLnues of Sago.
simmering gently, seasoning with
The sago should always be soaked salt,pepper and cayenne to taste,
overnight. Allow two ounces to and when ready to serve, add two
every three pints of broth or Con- tablespoonfuls of sherry wine. Serve
somme. Boil for one hour before one joint to each person. Wine may
serving, stirring occasionally. be omitted.
Rice Soup, Noodle Soup.
Potage au Riz. Pctage au Nouilles.
1 Half Cup of Rice. 3 Qu'arts of Good Bouillon or Consomme.
3 Piuts of Bi-otu oi- Consomme. The Yolks of 3 Eggs.
Prepare clear Pot-au-Feu or
the Tlie Whites of 2 Eggs.
ConsommS. Wiren nearly done add 1 Cup of Flour. MiTablespoouful of Salt.
one naif cupful of rice, whicli has
Prepare a good Bouillon or Con-
been thoroughly washed and dried. somang. To a quart .,of the soup,
Cooki for about twenty-five minutes
longer, or until done, and serve.
add noodles made as follows: Beat
the yolks of three eggs, and the
Barley' soup is prepared after the
white of two together until very
same style, using a Clear Bouillon or light; add one cup of flour, one half
Consommg. teaspooii- of salt, and mix with cold
Okra Soup. water; making a stiff paste; roll very
thin; then roll each strip to form a
au P-6vi.
Potage tube; cut in strips,- grease and sim-
H- mer a few at a time -in boiling salt
2 Ppunds of Beef -vvitliout.fat or bone. twenty minutes.
water . for about
2 Cup" jf Okra, cliopped fine.
Simmer the noodles in thesoup about
Vi Pound of Butter. 4 Quarts of Cold Water.
1 Onlpu, ..sliced and cjiopped. f.tteen minutes.
Salt and Pepper.
I ^
Musliroom Soup..
Cut the beef into small pieces, and
.seaso,n well with butter, pepper and Potage ail Champignons.
sajt. I'j^y^.it in the soup- kettlie with
Vi Pound of Good Macaroni.
tjie. onion gknd butter, until very Pound of Fresh Mushrooms or a Halt
brown. Then add the cold water and >/i
Can ofMushrooms.
let it simmer for an hour and a half. ^ Carrot and Onion.
Add the okra and let it simmer gent- ", Tablespoonfuls of Butter.
ly for three or four hours longer. . - 2 Pints of Consomme or Bouillon.
1 Pint of Cream.
Ox-Tail Soup. 2 Tablespoonfuls of Flour.
- Salt and Pepper to Taste.
Soupe de Queue de Boeuf.
Break the macaroni into pieces of
1 Ox Tall. about three inches; wash and put in-
A Bunch of Soup Herbs. 1 Head of Celery, to a stewpan, with two quarts df
4 (Juarta of Boilins Water. 1 Large Oniuu.
2 Carrots. 3 Cloves. boiling water; add three teaspoonfuls
'
A Mpris of Parsley. of salt. Let the macaroni boil half
A Small Slice of Lean or Beef. Ham an hour, and meanwhile make a
Salt and Pepper.
sauce. Put the butter and flour in
Cut the pieces trom the
tail in a small stewpari and beat to a cream.
joint, and then cut again into the
-
Then add the chopped onion, carrot
size' of a peanut, or one inch and a and pepper, and remaining salt and
half in length. Chop the onions broth, and heat slowly. When the
verj^ fine. Put the onion and a sauce begins to boil, set it . back,
tablespoonful of lard into a frying -where it will only simmer, for about
pan and add the ox tail. Cook slow- twenty minutes. At the end of that
ly until it begins to brown, then add time, add the crBam and then strain
the carrot, cut in pieces about the the sauce. Pour the water from the
size of a green pea, and about a -mp-caroni, and in its place put the
sauare inch of ham, chopped very sauce, and mushrooms; cook for five
fine. Let this brown, and. when it minutes, and serve hot.
begin.s to, brown nicely,
. add the The Creole housekeeper never u-Ses
thyme, bay leaf,- three cloves, one
'
any iDut a silver spoon in cooking
chopped very fine.
clove- .ol garlic, all fresh mushrooms. If the- spoon is
Let this continue to brown, being darkened, the mushrooms are not
careful hot to burn, and then add good. This is an infallible test in
one tablespoonful of flour, dredged in using. fresh mushrooms. The canned
lightly and stirred, and when all is French mushrooms are not only the
nicely browned, add about five quarts best, but the safest.
16

Croupe-au-Pot. 9 BOup-
Put the meat'and water Into begins,
Fotage
rot, and as soon as the scum
to rise, skim carefully.
Then add
3 Quarts of Good Consomme. Cook
10 Pieces of Dried Toast. 1 Carrot,
cut flue. the tomatoes and the corncobs.
1 Head of Celery, cut flue. for four hours or so longer; then take-
out the corncobs, and add the corn,,
1 Turnip, cut flue.
cut fine, salt and pepper to suit the-
Potage Croute-au-pot is one o taste, adding a pod of Cayenne pep-
Cre-
the most popular and excellent per, without the seeds; cook one
ole soups. Prepare a good co i-
parboil ttie hour longer and then serve with
sommg. In the meantime, water. slices of toast bread.
vegetables in salted boiling
When tender, drain off the water, Tomato Consomni.
and add them about two and one-
to
half quarts o( the boiling
consommfr Consomme de Tomates.
Let them simmer until they are very
put A Shin of Veal.
tender. Prepare the toasts and 3 Pounds of Shin of Beef.
enough
them into a saucepan with Simmer 8 Quarts of Wo*er. 1 Cup of Tomatoes.
consomme them.
to cover A Handful of Sorrel (if tomatoes are not
gently until the toasts have absorbed used.)
all the consomme and show
signs of and Pepper.
Salt 3 Onions. 3 Leeks.
drying up. Then add a little hot 10 AUspirp 6 Cloves. 3 Large Carrots.
consomme, detach them from the 1 Head of Celery. 1 Bunch of Parsley.
saucepan, lay them in the tureen and
A Chicken may be substituted for the Shlu
of Veal.
pour the soup with the vegetables
very gently over them. Serve Im- Put the meat and chicken (the lat-
mediately- ter cut up) into a large soup kettle
and let it come slowly to a boil. Then
Savory Soup. draw it forward, and as it begins to
boil more rapidly skim as the scum
Potage a. la Bonne MSnagSre. rises. After another hour add the
4 Pounds of Lean Beet. 4 Quarts of Water.
1 Onion, chopped fine.
pepper, salt and vegetables. The
3 Sprigs of Parsley. liBny Leaf. soup should boil incessantly, but
%Cup. of Rice. gently, for about eiglit" "hours, re-
1 Sprig of Thyme.
3 Tablespoonf uls of Oatmeal. ^ quiring in all about nine hours of
1 Tablespoonf ul of Salt.. %
Teaspoonf-ul of good coofeing. It should, there'fore,
Pepper. be put on very early in the morning,
Put the meat in four quarts' of and, required, for luncheon, should
if
cold water -and let it simmer for be made the day before. When the
three hours. soup has boiled gently for the pre-
One hour before serving, adl one- scribed time take it off, strain Into
halt cup of rice, which has been a large bowi and set it away in the
soaked in water until soft, and three ice box until the next day, if not for
tablespoonfuls of oatmeal, one table- immediate use. Then remove the fat
spoonful of salt and one-fourth tex- from the surface, and pour off all
spoonful of pepper. Add parsley, the clear part into a saucepan and
sprig of thyme and, one onion, boil again for one or two hours. Then
chopped fine. Boil an houf^ longer remove it from the fire. This will
and serve, very hot. This makes a make a stiff jelly, which will keep
delicious soup. in "Winter for several days in the ice
box. It also serves to make a beau-
Corn Soup. tiful Sauce Espagnole, or Spanish
Sauce. The best way to keep It is
Soupe au Mai Tendre. in earthern pitchers holding from one
6 Pounds of the Lower Bibs of Beef, to two quarts, allowing a certain
a Quarts of Cold Water.
1 Quart of Sliced Fresh Tomatoes.
quantity for each day.
1 Quart of Corn, sliced from the cob. This soup requires no artifiuial
1 Tablespoonful of Butter. coloring. Use the thick part of the
Tablespoonful of Flour.
1 soup with vegetables or other pur6e.
One Pod of Cayenne Pepper, without seeds.
Salt and Black Pepper to Taste. Mock-Turtle Soup.
Corn soup is one of the most popu- Soupe !\ la Tortue.
lar Creole summer soups. At this .

Head. 14 Pound of Calf's Liyer.


1 Calf's
season, when corn' and tomatoes are
5 Quarts of Cold Water.
plentiful, the following will be found Bunch of iSonp Herbs. 2 Hard-Boiled Eggs..
not only a delicious, but a highly nu- 2 Tablespoonfuls of Butter.
tritive soup: .1 Gill of Sherry. 1 Bay Leaf. 12 Cloves.
Takesix pounds of the lower ribs 1 Onion. 1 Lemon.
of the beef, a quart of sliced fresli 4 Level Teaspoonfuls of Flour.
tomatoes, a quart of corn sliced fro.n 1 Turnip.

the cob, six quarts of water, one 1 Level Teaspoonful Mushroom Catsup.
1 Carrot.
tablespoonful of butter, one of flour, Level
1 Teaspoonful Worcestershire
and salt and pepper to suit the taste. Salt and Pepper to Suit Taste
Sauce
17

Select a fine calf's head, not too Mutton Droth.


large. If large^ reserve half and
the tongue and brains to make an- Soupe de Mouton.
other dish. Get the butcher to crack 8 Pounds of the Neck of the Mutton.
the head well and remove the brains. 4 Quarts of Cold Water. Vi Cup ot Bice.
Wash ttfe head thoroughly in cold 1 Onion. 1 Bay Leaf.
water, and then be careful to pour 2 Large Turnips. Salt and Pepper to Taste.
boiling water through the nose and Wash the neck of the mutton, or
throat passages u '1 they are per-
'

wipe with a damp towel, and put it


it
fectly clean, and sciuiO out the ears
into the kettle with the cold water.
thoroughly, washing very clean. Let it come to a slow boil and skim
Einse all well in cold water, and be carefully. Cover well and let it sim-
very sure that the head is very sweet mer for about four hours. Then re-
and clean before attempting to cook move from the stove and pour into an
U. Put the head In a kettle with
earthern vessel to cool. When cold,
five quarts of cold water, and set it
remove all the fat from the surface,
over a moderate Are. When it be- or, better still, remove all the fat
gins to boil well, skim thoroughly,
before boiling. Return to the kettle
till every particle of scum has been
and add the rice, the sliced turnip
taken oft. Then set it back and let and the bay leaf, and season to taste,
it simmer until the meat is quite ten-
or prepare as in Oxtail Soup.
der. This will require about two
hours and a half. Then remove the Chicken Broth,
head; take the meat from the bones;
skin the tongue, and set away to Bouillon de Volaille.
cool. Return the bones to the ket- To make a good chicken broth for
tle, with the vegetables, which have invalids, take one good large chick-
been washed and cut fine; as, also, en; clean carefully and cut up, being
the spices and the liver. Simmer careful to mash all the bones with
gently again for two hours, and when an ax. Place in a saucepan of cold
cool, strain. Set aside to cool, and water, and let it simmer gently for
Ttrhen the soup is cold, remove all four or five .hours, until it is boiled
the fat. Put the butter in a sauce-,- down to about twCk; cups of broth.
pan and melt, adding the flour li^il-
,
It will have a'i-ich, strong color, and
nicely browned, but be careful got this broth, seasoned with a little salt
to burn it. Then add by degrees the Etfid pepper, omitting all vegetables,
boiling soup, stirring constantly. mix be taken by the most delicate
Boil, -keeping uj) & gentle istir, for, stomachs.
about five minutes. Then add the
meat of the head and the liver, hav- Chicken ConBomme.
inar first cut them into dice, and bring
to a boil at once. Take the saucepan Consomme de Volaille.
from the fire, and add the catsup, 1Large Chicken Cut in Pieces.
salt, pepper and wine. Slice the 1 Onion. 3 Quarts o Cold Water.
hard-boiled eggs and the lemon and 1 Small Stalk of Celery.
place them in the tureen, and pour 1 Carrot. 1 Turnip.
the soup over them and serve. Salt and Pepper,
If force-meat balls are desired for
Put the chicken into the salt and
the soup, prepare them as follows: wrater and let it simmer gently until
the scum begins to rise; then skim.
Add the other ingredients. Boil gen-
Forc^-Meat Balls. tly for two hours, and serve, with
slices of toast. The chicken left
Chop a half of a pound of beef or over will serve to make croquettes,
veal and chopped chicken about an or chicken salad. Nothing is ever
wasted in a well regulated house-
Inch in thickness; add a little of the hold.
liver and tongue of the calf, a. half
dozen small onions, one tablespoonful Gilt-Bdged Consomme.
of sweet marjoram, one grated nut- Consomme Dor.
meg, a teaspoonful each of powdered 1 Fine Chicken. Good Soup Bone.
1
1 Slice of Fine Ham.
black pepper and mace, and a half, 1 ftaUoGof Water.
teaspoonful of cloves (powdered),' 2 Eggs, whites and shells.
three eggs, three grated crackers 2 Sprigs of Parsley.

(sifted), half a gill of good sherry


% Each of Small Parsnip, Carrot and
Head of Celery.
wine, a tablespoonful of butter and 1 Onion. 3 Cloves. iSalt and Pc-pper.

two teaspoonfuls of salt; chop up and Have the fowl thorouhly cleaned,
mix thoroughly together. Then roll
and put the chicken, beef and ham
into a kettle of cold water of the
in balls and fry slowly In lard or quantity mentioned in the above, and
butter. Serve with the soup. boil slowly for five hours, being care-
'

18

ful to keep the pot well covered. one carrot, a small bunch of celery,
Chop the onion and vegetables and and one cup of rice. Let the chicken
fry them in a little butter, and add simmer well, for about four hours,
allthe seasonings to the soup. Boil and, when weU cooked, take out the
two hours longer, and set a'way over- chicken from the broth. Cut off the
night in an ice box. The next day white meat and cut .it into pieces
remove all the fat; from the top take about the size of dice. Then strain
out the jelly, leaving the thickest the broth, mashing the rice well. .

part o the sediment, which is good Make a purfie by taking another


to put into a thick soup. Mix in the saucepan, .putting, in one .tablespoon-
shells and the whites of eggs and ful of butter and one of fiour, letting
boil quickly for about ten minutes. it melt .together without browning.
Then set it on the hearth to settle. Moisten this well with the soup and
Pour the soup through a thin bag a glass of milk,, and season with salt
without squeezing; if it does not and pe.,pper., and one-quar.ter of a
come out perfectly clear, pass it gratedj nutmegv.and add to the broth.
through again. It should then be a Then add the chicken, which has been
beautiful golden-brown color. Only cut up. Put in theture.en little dice
the brightest aiid cleanest of kettles of croutons of bread fried in butter.
should be used, and the sieve should Pour the soup oyer and serve hot.
be scalded each time to keep the par- The remainder of the chicken is used'
ticles froin washing back Into the to make Chicken Croquettes, Chicken
soup. This is a delightful soup for Salad, etc. . .

luncheons and dinner parties. It


may be garnished according to taste, J
Giblet Soijp.
serving with "Croutons," or Que- -'

r.elles. No artificial, coloring should Pdtage a I'Bssetlpfe de .Gesier.


ever be used, in making the Con- 1 Hard-Boiled Yolk for 'Each-Person.""
" 2i' C-'ps of iJBScken Broth.
sommg DorS. Depend upon the na- 3 Quarts of Boiling Water Or Broth.
tural ingredients for the golden-
1'Onion, Carrot and Vi Turnip, chopped.
brown color so much admired by all -2Tablespoonfuls of Port or- Madeira "Wine.
chefs. , __ Parsley; :.'
J \ Jnice of 1 Leffnon.
Coii!ioiumg"Wi<ii Poached Bggs. 1 Leaf^J59ch of Sage and Bay... j..

1 T^lespqonful^o^jB'Iour and-1 of Buffer.


Consommg aux Oeufs Pochfis. The Giblets, ljearj,,f,iver, etc., of Two i,ur-
-
..>-j^ .4jeys[ or
TTour Chickens.
6 Eggs.
3 Quarts of, Consoujme or Bouillon. Chop 'the onion fl^ne and^ put it into
Break the eggs and drop them one the stcwpan with 'the' butter; let it
by one into boiling salted water, be- brown, and then-add the chopped veg-
ing careful not to allow the water etables, whole giblets, etc; fry until
to boil when once the eggs are in it; nicely browned; but do not let it
but have the frying pan, which Is burn. -Then silt the giblets with a
always best for poaching eggs, to one knife, that the juices may run out
side of the stove, and cook slowly in boiling, and put all into- the soup
until the eggs are firm. When firm, kettle, with pepper, salt, sage, par-
carefully remove with a spoon or sley, and the three quarts of con-
perforated skimmer, the latter being sommfi or boiling Water. Add bones
best, and lay in cold water for a mo- Or lean meat, cooked or raw, that are
ment, until the edges are trimmed left, preferably the meat of the chick-
evenly. The boiling water tends to en, and let all simmer for five hours.
make the edges ragged, and eggs Then strain. Mash o"ne liver fine and
served in this slovenly manner ^re add it to the broth; season with Ca-
not tempting. Transfer to the tur- yenne pepper, lemon juice to taste,
een and pour the boiling soup very and two tablespoonfuls of Madeira
gently into the tureen and serve. or Port wine. Boil three minutes,
One egg and about a half pint of and have in the tureen one hard-
broth should be allowed to each boiled yolk of an eg-g for each per-
person. son. Pour the soup over it and serve
hot.
Ciueen Soup.
Rabbit Soup,
Potage a la Reine.
1 Chicken. 14 Pound of Bice. Potage de Lap'in;
Pint of Cream.
V2
V4 Blade of Mace, 1' Sprig of Thyme.
,
2 young
Babbits.'
4 Sprigs of Parsley. 2 Quarts of Cold 'Water. 'l Onion.
2 Quarts of White Veal Broth.
1 Bay I,eaf. :.-

Salt and Pepper. . 1 Blade of ilaee.. 1 , Tablespoontul of Batter.


Vi Cup of
Rice.
Take a fine large chicken, clean it Cajenne Pepper, % Pod. Salt to the Taste.
nicely and put it whole into a pot Thisa famous Creole soup. The
is
containing about' five quarts of water. rabbits should be well skinned and
Add chopped onion, thyme, bay leaf. singed. Wash thoroughly in warm
,19

water; this is. very important. Then 1 Hero Bouquet. 1 Onion.


cut the meat into small' pieces and 2 Teaspo.onfiit^ of Flour. '\
put Into the soup pot, with the quan- 2 Tublespoonfals of Butter. '-
'-''
tity of water given. Chop the onion, '
' Cayenne to' Suit tiio-Tatite.' 1?^'
Bait anil I'eiJpor. /' ^
mace and bay leaf and add. Place on
.

a very moderate flre, and let it sim- The knuckle veal, is u best of the
mer gently until the meat has grown for this. Wash and .pijt into the soup
very tender. This will require about kettle, covering with, watep ar^d .bring
two hours. or less. Add the salt, pep- it to a slow. boil.'- Carefully skim off
per and rice, and sdmmer for an hour the-'scum. Let it simmer .gently for
longer. Pour into the tuseen over three, hours.i- The. tripe-
should be j

croutons and-serve. The Creol-es add prepared, th? .^ay before, jyash it ,.

two taWespObnfuls of sherry or port thoroughly in cold water and boil


wine, thus increasing the delicacy of .for ab.c>nt sey^n hours. Put. away in
the flavor. " ttte jce,box:till n.eede^._ ..Chop the par-
iSqnirrel Soup. tSley and hqrbs- fine and.; pn;e.-half of
Potage d'E<yjreil. .
,the ^r^_d pepper podj and,a4,d.!to the
bpiling knupkle of xeal, .and. also the
"When squirrels are used the gray potatoes; which, hg.ve,.,bej!, jcut into
Louisiana squirrel is best. Venison dice. Cut up the tripsi.iinto'. pieces
may be substituted for. sCfUi-rrels. of about one inch square. Take out
Prepare as for Rabbit: Sonp. -
the knuckle of: veal;.a,Ti'd cut aap meat
iato ' small pfebes,, and- add"aU; .with
.Pepper Pot,; .

.the tripe to.the saiip. .-jAt-tiie' boiling


/'..

Pot de Poivres. .poipit, season witoiBa'Wxand' pepper. .

'''"

.a-iPomid Qt Plain Tripe. Potatoes.


2 TAe.',.Creoles' sfeV-ve'/thls 'gbnp" -With
t Pound of Honeycomb Tripe. Croil'toris. 'Throw -tMetti 'Into the
Sprig of Parsley.. 1 Knuckle of Veal. soupi' I'st it slm.tnef' for 'about ten
''"
3 Quarts of Cold Water. ... minutes, morS and shi'v^:'--
'

CHAPTER IV.

'
SOUPS.'
Soupes" d e Poi'ssons.-

Under this heading come some of Green' Turtle Soup.'


the most delightful Creole soups, such
'asGr6en Turtle Soup, Oyster Soup, S-oupe'a.Ja Ijbrtue...
Crawfish Bisque, etc. These not only 2 Pounds of Turtle Meat,, or a Z-Pound Turtle.
'serve as fast-day soups, but are con- Z^'Fiiie Large Onioiis. C Cloves. '
'

"sidered elegant introductions to the 1 Square inch Of Ham. Allspice. 'ti

hiost rScherchS feast. 2 ClOTes -Of Garlic.


2 Tablespoonfuls- ot Flour.
Fish Soup. % -of ti Small Lemon. 2 Hard-Boiled Eggs.
, Bouillon de Polsson. 1 Glass ot Sherry .Wine.
Parsley, Tliyme, .Jiay Leaf.
'
G Siives of Pish' of Almost Any Variety. iSalt, Pepper and Cayenne to Taste.
X '' -'4 Onions, Chopped Fine. The Creoles pride themselves upon
>-Tomatoes, Chopped Fine. their, famous "Soupe si la -Tortue,"
1 Herb Bouquet. Sprig of Parsley, and justly; the old saying that only a
1 Glass of White' Wine,
4 Tablespooutuls of Salad Oil.
good- Creole cook knows how-to make
4 Tablespoonfuls of Flour. a -good Turtle Sotip being testified to
3 Pints of Water. by epicurean visitors frotii every
!
- '

country. -.i ''' ''''

'ChOjP "the onions and fry them in The following 'is One ''of''the sim-
the salad 'oil. Cut the tomatoes fine plest and best ways of 'tn'aking'' Tur-
and add' onions, and put in all the tle Soup
a recipe that 'may-always
other ingredients, except the fish, be belied upon and -one that' hSlfe -been
adding the fiour to make a good roux. used from ggneratfSn "to generation
"When brown add the water, and, af- ill the-'Hiost'aristocrati'c Creole homes:
ter it has boiled about a halt hour, -' 1-ri- making Turtle Soup, remember
add the slices of fish. "When they are that Green Turtle is always the best
firm remove the herb bouquetr add for' this purpose. Select tvo pounds
Cayenne pepper, and salt and: pfirp- of fine Green' Turtle meat, if the tur-
per to taste, and serve the.fl'shit'SDup tle' is not bought whole. This
in a. tureen, pouring it over CTJUSts.'of amount Will make a soup for six per-
dried toast. - sons. Increase proportionately. If
20

the turtle is bought whole, first cut the heading "Quenelles." (See re-
oft the head. To do this properly, cipe, under chapter "StuflSngs and
the turtle should be hung with the Dressings," etc.)
head downwards, and a very sharp
knife should be used to cut off the Turtle Sonp No. 2.
head as close as possible. Often for
hours after this operation is per- Soupe la Tortue.
a,

formed, the turtle will exhibit extra- 2 Pounds of Turtle Meat.


ordinary signs of life, the flesh quiv- % Tablespoonful of Lard.
14 Tablespoonful of Butter.
ering constantly. The old CieOli 2 Tablespoonfuls of Flour.
cooks say that a turtle never dies, 2 Tomatoes. 1 Large Onion.
but Liiis is a darky tradition. To re- 1 Sprig of Tbyme. 2 Sprigs of Parsley
move the shells, first separate the up- 1 Bay Leaf. 1 Clora of Garlic.
per from the lower shell, always be- 1 Square Incb of Ham.
ing exceedingly careful to avoid 1 Dozen Cloves Tied In JIusIin.
touching the gall bladder, which is 6 Allspice Mashed Fine.
very large. If this bladder is pene- 3 Quarts of Water. 2 Hard-Boiled Eggs.
trated, the contents running over the 1 Glass of Sherry or White Wine.
Salt and Ca.^enne to laste.
turtle meat would render it utterly
unfit for use.
Clean the turtle and entrails bjr
cutting open the latter and washing
Clean the turtle and the entrails by thoroughly in cold water. The:i
cutting open and washing thoroughly put the meat and entrails Into a
in cold water. Then put the meat saucepan and parboil them for ten
and entrails into a saucepan and par- minutes. Carefully save this stock
boil about ten minutes. Be careful to of water. Chop the onion very fine,
save this stock of water. Chop an and cut the ham into very fine pieces.
onion very fine, and the ham into Cut the turtle meat Into one-inch
very fine pieces. Cut the turtle meat pieces; mash the allspice very fine,
into one-inch pieces, mash the cloves and mince the parsley, thyme and
and the allspice very fine and chop bay leaf. Then brown the onions in
the thyme and bay leaf. Brown the the lard and Ijutter. mixed,, and. almost
onions in a taWesMonful of butter Infrifediately add the turtle' meat.
er lard, and add Imnilrtiiafely the tur- Brown together for ten minutes and
tle meat. Brown together slightly add the finely chopped ham. As
and after minutes add the chopped this continues to brown, add the
ham. Let this' cpfttinue browning- cloves of garlic, (minced flne)^ the
and then add twS"" cloves g^' garlic; thyme and bay leaf and the ground
chopped fine, and the thy^ije, bay allspice. Mix all together, stirring
leaf (mincedfine), cloves Eyh4 all- almost constantly to prevent burn-
spice (ground), all mix^d,;fSpgether^ ing. Then add the weU>-rubbed table--
and lay on the turtle. Stir^lhis al- spoonfuls of flour, stirring constantly.
most constantly to prevent 'burning, Scaldii^nd skin the toi&toes and chop
and add two tablespoonfuls of flour them fine, and add to the turtle meat.
that has been well rubbed, stirring When well-browned, pour over three
constantly all the time. Then dis- quarts of the water In which the tur-
solve the meat with the water in tle was parboiled, season with salt
which the turtle was parboiled, add- and pepper and Cayenne to taste, anJ
ing gradually until a certain consis- let it boil slowly for fully an hour,
tency is reached. About three quarts stirring frequently. After one hour,
of water will be the required amount. taste the soup, and, if not sufficiently
Season this with salt, black pepper seasoned, add seasoning of salt, pep-
and Cayenne to taste, and boil slowly per and Cayenne again, according to
for fully an hour, stirring al-nost taste. Let it cook for an hour longer
constantly. After cooking one hour and then take off the stove if the tur-
taste,and if not seasoned sufficiently tle IS thoroughly done. This may be
season again and taste. Then chop ascertained by sticking it with a
one-quarter of a small lemon and put fork. If no blood exudes, the soup
It in the soup. Let it continue to IS ready to serve. Take off the stove
cook, and when well done that
Is
and strain through a colander Into
when no blood exudes from the tur- the tureen. Add the wiiues and yolks
tle after sticking it with of two hard-boiled eggs, chopped fine,
a fork-
pour into the tureen. Add the whites and one good glass of Sherry or
and yolks of two hard-boiled White Wine. Slice a lemon fine and
chopped fine, and one good esgs add to the soup and serve hot.
Sherry wine, and the soup Is glass of
ready to
serve. This is a dish fit
for a king
How to Serve Turtle Sonp.
and IS most highly recommended
a genuine Creole Turtle Soup as '^^"^ should be taken In serv-
(^^''fu*
If Quenelles or Forcemeat
are desired, they may be BUs mmd that boiling the soup
prepared time, or warming it a second
according to the recipe given under over,
Of much Of its delicious deprives It
avoid this,
ToSr
mi.two tureens wUhbon-
,

21

ing water; let them stand a few min- CrawfiHh Bisque.


utes, then dry the inside thoroughly
and place the tureens in a "bain- Potage a, la Bisque d'Bcrevisse.
marie," or a hot-water bath. Fill 8 Dozen Fine Large Crawfish.
the tureens with the soup and cover 3 Onions. 1 Carrot. 1 Bunch of Celery.
2 Spiigs ot Thyme. 2 Bay Leaves.
tightly. Bring them to the table as 4 Sprigp jf I'nrsley. 6 Cloves.
needed, throwing in Just before serv- 2 Blades of Mace. 1 Clove of Garlic.
j

ing, some dainty slices of lemon. It 2 Tablespoonfuls of Butter.


the meat is served, use only the most 2 Quarts of Oyster Liquor.
delicate portions. A Dash ot Cayenne. 1 Seedless Cayenne Tod.
1 Salt and Pepper to Taste.

Mock EgKs for Turtle Soup. .


k>rawflsh Bisque is a distinctive
Creole luxury. It is prepared as fol-
Should the turtle possess no eggs, lows:
the following method of making
mock eggs is often used. Break and Take about eight dozen fine, large
beat thoroughly one fresh egg; then crawfish and wash thoroughly, being
take the yolks of three hard-boiled careful to cleanse of every particle
eggs, and rub them into a fine paste of dust or sand. Set to boil in about
with about a teaspoontul of butter. a gallon of water. "When boiled, take
Mix this with the raw egg and roll the fish out of the water; save the
into pellets of the identical size and water. Pick out two dozen ot the
shape of the turtle eggs, let them He largest crawfish; pick out the inside
in boiling water about two minutes, of the tails and save the heads, clean-
and then drop into the soup. sing them of every particle of meat.
Set this meat to one side with the
shells of the head. Pick the meat
Terrapin Soup. from the rest of the crawfish, saving
all the shells. Take one large onion,
Soupe a. la Tortue. a carrot, a bunch of celery, a sprig ot
Two-Ponnd Diamoad-Back Terrapin.
thyme, one bay leaf, three sprigs ot
1
parsley, six cloves and two blades of
2 Fine Large Onions. 6 ClOTes.
mace, one clove of garlic; chop all
1 Square Inch of Ham. 6 Allspice. very fine and put into the pot of wa-
^ of a Small Iiemon. 2 Hard-Boiled Eggs. ter in which the crawfish were boiled.
-:. 1 Glass ot Sherry Wine. Add all the picked meat, except the
Parsle.r, Thyme aiid Bay Leaf. reserved tails, and all the shells
Salt, Pepper and Cayenne to Taste. of the bodies and heads, except
the reserved heads. Add one
Remember always that the land cup of rice and let it all boil
terrapin is unfit to eat. The fre^sjjr tiU 'the mixture becomes thick and
water -t^i*apin cari'''"*Sfe^mad''- into a wnishy. -"When it Is well cooked, take
most relishable article of food if it oft the Are and mash the sheila
cooked according to Creole methods. thoroughly, and the meat also, and
The diamond-back terrapin is the strain all through a sieve. Take
bbest and the females make the finest about a tablespoonful of butter and
and daintiest food, the males being two quarts of oyster liquor and add
not only of inferior size, but of far this to the soup, seasoning to taste
less delicate flavor. Terrapins must with Cayenne, salt and black pepper.
always be bought alive. They are in Set to boil slowly. In the meantime,
season from November till March, take the reserved crawfish ment and
and, like all other fish, should not make a stuffing as follows for the
be eaten out of season. The red leg reserve heads; chop an onion very
Or fresh-water terrapin, or the ter- fine and let it brown in a tablespoon-
rapin of common variety, called ful ot butter. Squeeze thoroughly a
"Gopher," are eschewed by the Cre- cup of breacj wet with water. When
oles,but are good to eat. To have a well squeezed, mix with a little milk,
good terfapin soup th& diamond back sufficient to make a paste, season to
must be used. taste and mix with the well-seasoned
To make the soup, clean the terra- crawfish meat. Chop another onion
pin as you would a turtle. Then and put in melted butter, and add the
place in a kettle and boil till tender. crawfish stuflUng. letting all fry about
Take out and cut Into small pieces, ten minutes, adding. In the meantime,
saving the water. Proceed as for a finely-chopped sprig each ot thyme
Turtle Soup. When it boils up take and parsley and a bay leaf, and mix-
from the fire, add a grated nutmeg, ing thoroughly. Take off the fire
a glass of Sherry or Madeira wine and stuff the reserved head of craw-
and serve. The fare! or forcemeat fish. Put on every stuffed head a dot
balls is made in exactly the same of butter, and set In the oven and
manner as for Turtle Soup. Serve bake ten minutes. Place the stuffed
with green pickle and delicate slices heads In the tureen and pour the
. of fried toast. soup over. Serve hot with CroQtons
,

22

of buttered' toast, passing the latter byster Soup.


in a sep.arate /I'Sh. i

Soupe aux Jrl'ultre's. - "


''
,

'
CrawiftisU Soup. 4 Dozen, Larse, Fresh ,
O.TSters, ;

1 Quart of" KIch Milk. The Oyster Liquor,;


pQtage d'fiQrevisses. 1 Tablespoonful of Bptter.
3 Sprigs of I'arslej-, Chopped Fine.'
60 Prne, Large Crawflsb.
1Dozen Pepper Corns.
IM Pouiids o a Fillet of Veal.
1 Slice () Ham.
Salt and Pepper to Taste.
1 Herb Bouquet. - 1 Halt Can" of Mushrooms.
2 Tablespoon Culs of Klour. In purchasing the oysters always
2 Carrots. 1 Talilespoonful of Butter. be careful to make the vendor add
1 Clove,. o,pailic. U-arge O.nion. 1 Parsnip. the oyster juice when intended for
1 D,ozeh Almonds. 1 t)ozen Allspice. - .' soup. In making good oyster soup
4 Shallots-.' 6 Tomatoes or a Half Can. .
the Creoles never use any water,, but
Croutons. the liquor from the oysters. Drain
the oysters through a colander and'
Wash the tr^Wflsh thoroughly Aver set them over the ice box tor.kgep
and-,,over''a^ain to take a.way every
fresh and cold. Strain tJje liquor,
particle'' of dust. "Then l)6il them in
and put it into a soup kettle, adding
plain Water. water. Take
S'av^" the ' tne chopper parsley and, the .pepper-
out't.he ctawfisli 'and take off a.ll the corns. Let it come to a boil. ,Iij the.
shells, putting the meat aside. meantime, boil the milk separately in
Pound the. shells, fine; pouijd one doz- a saucepan, as boiling the yn^lk and

en almonds flSe^jand mix thoroughly oyster juice together is. ^ likely, to


with 'the meat of thfe crawfish, and, curdle the milk. "When the milk
.

pound, this in a mortar, In the comes to a boil, add to the oyster


meanwhile, talte one pouhdahd a lia.l| juice and put in the tablespoonful of
of a fllSt [Of vfeal aup'ra ^j'Tpe of ba.^t
butter. Some thicken the soup by
and cut -in smaYl pieces. '"Cut up,..tiie adding a tablespoonful of corn starch,
onion^ 'carrots and parsnips. Put' one rubbing it int'd' the flour- before put-
tablespoonful of lard in a kettle, and ting it in the soup. But this is a ,

wheh'it ?^egins to heat, add the herb matter of taste. If the iiiilk is rich
bouquet (sweet basil, parsley; bay '

and good, the soup will require no


leaf), the onions, jigirsnip, shallots,"
thickening, and is far. daintier with-
clove of garlic, chopped fine; as these
out it. Stir the soup constantly" at
brown, add the veal' and ham. Add this point, throwing in- the' oysters
two tablespoonfiiis of floiir g,nd butter, and continuing to stir until It comes
rubbed, and the mushrooms, chopped to a boil again. Under no circum-
finely. Let these simmer' for about stances allow the oysters to boil, as
five minutes and then add the to- that destroys their flavor and makes
matoes, allspice and cloves. After
ten minutes, when the mixture is
them tough and indigestible. But
'
one must be also careful, to see that
well browned, add the pounded craw-
fish shells and the pounded meat and
they are steamed throug-h' and'
through, and then they are deligihtiful'
almonds. Pour over all the water
from the boiled crawfish and set it and pal-alable. The crowrcinfe ta-fc'
back on the stove and let it simmer umphl in making oyster soup is "to
for about two hours. Skim off all
have the oysters cooked jst enough..
the' grease when near time for serv-
The ruffling of the edges indicates'
ing. -Then strain through a sieve,
the right condition; at. th is point the'

and serve with Croflfons of toast, out soup must be ser-\red,-.;:immedia:telj!.:


in"slices, placed' In the bott,o.Ti Of the
Serve '-/svith sliced lenlon :anid oys'ter=.
tureen. ": . i' ox .wafteir cr-ackers. SomefaddpAilittlB'
.-

On fast, days, ' nutmisg, and mace;; and,, Jstillf. flfgaini''


instead' of <the -Wral'
and ham, sbljstitute butten-'and lard,'
.

some Creoles ,.plat;e ichopp.sdn'Cel'BrjS)


making,, a" Roux (see", ceolpe), and in exceedingly small >quTmtitles, iaijdT
moistening a little with the stock of a herb bouquet Into the* oyster jmefe,
the crawfish. T*hen proceed as above being careful to aliow it to give just i

Rice or Cl^oQton sdiiiJ is rendered the desired flavor; and taking it out
delicious by introdticing' a small'
'
before adding the milk. But this,
quantity of the broth of the craw- too, is a matter of taste.- Made .-ac-
fish. The broth is also used exten- cording to the: above -formula., oysteri
sively by the Creoles in seasoning soup is a most delightful dish jahdi
ragoflts on fast days, and hot pies, can be eaten and relished /.hy tlie
such as pates de foies gras; also most delicate stomachs.-^ .' ^ cii'/i-.a

such entremets as caulifio-wer, arti- - -"/,' ' rr^T


Oyster, Soup Without Milk,
chokes, etc. The
chief 'essential in ,r.,,

making the broth is to h'av^ it -'of ' S,bup? lluitres a la Cir.^oXe.''. ,']
au'x'
the right consistency, aiid to skim The Creoles have" another, d'ft'lishtr!,
carefully of all the" gfeasi before
; ful methj}^ of p'veparihg oyster.' n'o'dvu'
sti-aining. Go6d jud^iiient must "be' a methoct'ev'ol-s^ed by the pld negro
the guide of the co'ok in s'eeking' the cooks of ante-b.eUum dajfs, and stl'lf
proper cbrisistency. in vogue in the ancient families.
-

23

It Is a eoup made witHouf milk and atable and a great favorite as a


Is prepared as follows: Take '
'

fast-day soup.
4 Dozen BayoUj.Cook Oysters. Crab Soup.
The Oyster Xlquor.
1 Large Onion. 1 'Tablespoonful of Lard,
.

2 Tablespoonfuls ol Siltea Flour.


Potage de Crabes.
4 Sprigs of Parsley. 1 Tatilespdonful o Butter.
1Dozen Fine Crabs. 6 Hlpe Tomatoes.
1 Quart of Boiling Water.
1 Sprig of Thyme. 3 Sprigs of Parsley.
Put the tablespoonful of lard into 1 of Sweet Marjoram.
1 Largo Onion. 1 Clove^of Garlic.
the soup kettle. Have ready one on- 1 Tcaspoonful of B'uft^i^'
ion, some
parsley, chopped very fine. .

2 Tablespoonfuls (level) of Lai'fl'.


When the lard is hot, stir in two 1 Lemon.
tablespoonfuls of sifted flour, and Salt, Pepper and Cayegue.
make a Brown Eoux (see recipe),
stirring coiistantl-y to prevent, burn- Cleanse the crabs thoroughly and
ing. Wherl. the Roux, is ot a light
.'
extract, all the meat ffom the body
brown color,' add the chopped onions and claws; sca)d and skin the toma-
and parsley, continulrig to stir, being toes, and squeeze, the pulp from the
exceedingly careful to avoid the sem- seeds and juice; cl^op very fine. Pour
blance of burning. Strain the oys- boiling water over- the seed and juice
ter juice of about-four dozen oysters and strain. Chop the^oniort and gar-
into the Roux, mixing .thoroughly, lic and stew with the' tablespoonful
to avoid bits of shell; mix with about of butter and lard.. 'A's they begin
a quart of boilings water :and pour to brown, add the tdm&.to'es, cover,
Wh-en it shows -signs.- of coming to a and, after simmering k few miftutes,
boil, add the oysters and a teaspoon- add the well-seasoned meat' of the
ful of butter. At the boiling point crab. Sift oyer this s6me grated
remove from. tk;e stove aiKd serve with bread or crackers and season with
oyster soda, qraxskerg. or' dry toast, Cayenne, sweet marjoram and thyme.
the oyster craokersrtbsing always pre- Pour in tomS,to w'ater and- add about
ferable. '
.'.r; :
:.''
a quart or more' 6f water,' arid let it.
This form of sjouprma-y be improved boil mo'derately for about an hour.
by usiag.. the. .milk ins'teadol the hot Add the juic^' bf two.' lenibiis
'''
a:nd
Di.ater, but neither isteSK'JS) very, pal- serve." ' '

. ... .-. ..it* ui'

;/.J?ttrn.

CHAPTER V.

htillEXTEN SOUPS.

Totaiies Maigres.

The Creoles excel in th.e, prepara- Fast-Day Pfrotli.


tion of soups, T^jt^put meat,, or,, fast-
day soups, as'',0_^.y, -are. called,. The '
Bouillon iiiiigre.
ingenuity of '.flie co.ojcs frQ.-n...^ei>era-
6 Fine Carrots.' 6 Large White Onions.
tipn to genftijatf^'p hav.e been ^^.xed In G Turuiiis.
the preparafioh 'o.f these soups,, which % Pound of Beans or Dried
Split Peas.
are in great vogue during the Lenten 1 iSmall Head of Cabbage. 1 Parsnip.
season. But many of them, such as Stalk of Celery.
1
"Cream of Asparagus Soup," "Cream 4 Sprigs of I'arsleyi-
of Celery Sou"p',''',;hg.vf,j jjntered^ into % Pound of Butter, or 1 Large Tablespoonful
the daily life ,of ,'^|ie q^ty, .and,,' .like ot -.Lard.
tlis famousCr,eple Gumbos,"are held- 3 'Quarts of Watei'."
as.- dainty .and, 'elegant introductions
1 Red Popper Pod, Without the Seed.
Salt and;.Pepperrlo Taste.
to, the most distinguished feasts.
Peel and cut into fine, thin slices
.The nutritive, valu,- of the soups
without meat cannot be overestimated the oarrot^j, turnips and parsnips; cut
especially thos^r piade with red or and chop 'iin&.thgt.Qabbage, celery and
.
white beans,, lentils,, corn, and other onions; put.aJl ^'^ ^ saucepan and add
vegetables,. whiose.! -.health-giving
.,
one glass. o-f5water,. and a quarter of
properties Vape ..beyorid/ -disput^. TO;. a pound of: tiutter, using. the butter
the. poor e.sp?ci^U3r.,thy :are TeooniT. pr^eyably to -the lard; add the par-
.

mended, B0t';^|0iiiliy .oinnthe score of sley, chopped very fine; L.et all boil
economy, but of health as well. till the water has evaporated, and
2*

then add one pint of red or white Then press the whole through a seve;
beans or split peas, wliich have been add the remaining water and bring
soalced overnight; add three quarts of to a boil. Then add the butter,
v/ater and the pepper pfid, and; let, rubbed smooth with the flour in a
all simmer well for three hours. Then little rich__ cream, or a little of the
if the beans are perfectly tender at hot soup. A gill of cream or milk
this point, drain or press through a added just before serving increases
colander; return to the fire and add the flavor. Boil and stir about two
the seasonings. Let all bjil up once or three minutes more and servo.
and then serve with Crofltons. Stali
bread may be utilized in preparing Lenttl Soup.
the Croutons. A more nutritious
Potage Purge de Lsntilles.
soup than this cannot be prepared. a.

A Summer Fnst-Day Soup. 1 Pint of Lentils. 2 Quarts of Water.


1 Culm. 1 Small Bunch of Parsley.
Potagre Maigre d'fitfe. 1 Bay Leaf. 1 Sprig of Thyme.
Tablespoonful of Butter or Lard.
1
The Hearts of 6 Lettuce Cut in Pieces. 1 Pod of Bed Pepper, Without the Seeds.
2 Large Onions. 1 Stalk of Celery, Chopped Fine.
2 Cuc'imbers, Pared and Sliced. Salt and Pepper to Taste.
4 Pinta of Young Green Peas.
Chopped Parsley. Wash the lentils, and, IE dried,
3 Lumps of Crushed Sugar. soak them over night. Drain oft the
V4 Pound of Butter. water and put them In a saucepan
Salt and Pepper to Taste. with the cold water. Allow them to
Chop the vegetables fine and stew come gradually to a boil. Then set
all together, except the young peas. them back on the stove and
After one hour add the young peas. let them simmer forgently
Press tliem through a sigye and p^ , about '
two hours. the Melt
tulW" all into the watef' in which .
butter in "the saucepan
fry and
they have been boiled. Add to this in it the minced onion, celery, par-
the vegetables that have been stewed sley, thyme and bay leaf, and let
in the butter and simmer about an these brown; then add them to the
hour and a half. A sprig of mint is lentils; boil about an hour longer,
addeff just before the soup Is taken and, if particularly tender, press all
off the fire. This Is a most excellent through a colander. Return to the
and nsuTtstrfss' soup and is reeom- fire and add the seastnrfngs. l>et
mended to the families of the poor. them boil up once and serve witli
A Crofltons.
Winter Fnat-Day Sonp.
Lentils are used constantly by the
Potage Maigre d'Hiver. poorer class of Creoles, but they
onght to be more gen,evaAly used by
1 Quart of Dried Peas. all classes of people. The above soup
3 Quarts of Water. 1 Lettuce, Sliced.
is very palatable and most nourish-
1 Head of Celery.
1 Carrot. 2 Turnips. 2 Lar^e Onions.
ing. As an illustration of the nutri-
Handful of Spinacli. tive value of "legumes," as lentils,
Sprig Each of Mint, Thyme and Parsley. beans and peas are generally called,
1 Baj Leaf. during the Franco-Prussian war the
A Tableapoonful of Butter. Germans, who learned much from the
Stew all the vegetables, except the French as regards food values, sup-
lettuce, together, after having plied the German soldiers with a
chopped fine, until thejr"4re perfectly kind of sausage called "Erbswurst;"
soft. Then- return to tlie fire with this was made of peasmeal and len-
the chopped lettuce, bu:t(^ and sugar. tils, or the condensed soup mixed
Boil quickly about twetfty minutes, with a certain proportion of lard or
and serve with Crofltons. bacon, onions, etc., and dried so as
to be portable. Each sausage was
Vegetable Soap Without Meat. a pound In weight, and one consti-
tuted the ration of a soldier. It was
Puree de LiSgumes. easily cooked by boiling in water, or
it could be eaten cold. This instance
1 Sweet Potato. 1 Bunch
of Celery Leaves.
is given in the hope that, through
1 Turnip. 1 Parenlp.
1 Carrot. 1 Bay
Leaf. 2 Onions.
this Cook Book, people mav learn
Sprig of Parsley and Thyme. how to cook not only palatably and
I Irlah Potato. well, but also how to live, selecting
2 Tablespoonfula of Tlour. such foods as will give the greatest
1 Large Tablespoonful of Butter. amount of nutriment in proportion to
S^, Quarts of Cold Water. the quantity consumed. Lentils,
Salt and Pepper to Taste. peas and beans have been found by
Cut the vegetables Into dice and scientific experiment to possess a
boil untilthoroughly tender in about greater nutritive value than all other
three and a halt quarts of water; vegetable foods, since they contain
this will require about two hours. more nitrogen than any of the cereals
and are as rich in carbon as wheateii It is always best to soak the peas
flour. overnight, after washing them in cold
Red Bean Soup. water and rejecting all that float. In
Pur a la CondS. the morning drain off the water and
cover the peas again with one quart
1 Pint of Red Eeims.
of boiling water, setting them back
2 Quarts of Cold Water.
on the stove and letting them cook
Minced Onion.
1
Tablespoonful of Butter.
slowly until tender. Cut up the on-
1
ion and parsley and celery into
1 Bay Leaf.
Bunch of Parsley. Sprig of Thyme.
fine pieces and add to the
Salt and Pepper. boiling peas. When perfectly
tender remove from the stove
"Wash the beans and soak them
Overnight in lukewarm water. Drain
and press through a sieve or colan-
der and add the salt and pepper.
and put them in a saucepan with the Then return the soup to the Are
cold water. Allow them to come and let it boil up once; just before
gradually to a boil; then set them serving add the rich cream or milk,
back, and let them simmer gently for
about two hours. Melt the butter
stirring well. The soup should be
served with Crofltons or Oyster
in a saucepan and fry in it the onion,
Crackers. White Bean Soup may be
parsley, thyme and bay leaf until made in exactly the same manner.
brown. Add these to the beans and When not intended for fast days,
boil about an hour and a half longer. the addition of a ham bone adds
If the beans are perfectly tender at greatly to the flavor.
this point, press the whole through
a colander. Return to the fire, and Pur6e of Green Peas.
add the seasonings. Let them boil
up once and serve with the CroQtons. Purge de Pois Verts.
Some think that the flavor is en- 1 Quart of Young Green Peas.
hanced by beating up an egg in the Bunch of Parsley. 2 Young Onions.
tureen and pouring the boiling soup 2 Quarts of Good Milk or Broth.
gradually over it, stirring constantly. Pepper and Salt.
This soup should always be served Cut the onions and parsley flne,
with Crofltons. and boil with the peas until all are
quite tender, in boiling water, for
White Benn Soup. about a half hour. Then drain. Rub
Potage a la Purfie d'Haricots. all through a sieve or colander, and
1 Pint of White Beans. add them to the boiling broth or
2 Quarts of Cold Water. milk. Do not allow this to boil
1 Minced Onion. 1 Tablespoonful of Butter. after adding the peas. Season and
1 Bay Leaf. Bunch of Parsley. serve with dainty Croutons. To
Sprig of Thyme. keep hot, stand the soup on a "bain-
Salt and Pepper. marie," or kettle of boiling water.
Wash theand soak them
beans
Sorrel Soup.
overnight in lukewarm water. Drain
and put them in a saucepan with the Potage a. la "Bonne Femme," ou
cold water. Allow them to come
gradually to a then set them boil;
Soupe 3. rOiselle.
back and let them simmer gently for A Small Bunch of Fresh Sorrel.
3 Quarts of Boiling Water.
about two hours. Meli the butter in 1 Cup of Cream or Rich Milk.
a saucepan and fry in it the onion, 1 Cup of Mashed Potatoes.
parsley, thyme and bay leaf until 4 Eggs. 3 Sprigs of Parsley.
brown. Add these to the beans and 3 Leaves of Lettuce. 1 Oniou.
boil about an hour and a half longer. 1 Tablespoonful of Butter.
If the beans are perfectly tender at 2 Tablespoonfuls of Flour. A Pinch of Nutmeg.
this point, press the whole through Pepper and Salt to Taste.
a colander. Return to the Are and Soup, or Soupe a I'Oiselle,
Sorrel
add the seasonings. Let them boil is a popular Creole soup much prized
up once and then serve withthe
for its cooling properties. The In-
Crofltons. As in Red Bean Soup, a dians gather near Bayou Lacombe
beaten egg may be added when about the sorrel and^bring it to New Or-
to pour into the tureen. First beat
leans and sell it in the French Mar-
up the egg and pour the boiling soup ket. It is also grown in the home
gradually over, stirring all the while. garden by many Creoles. The leaves
Dried or Spilt Pea Soup, only are used in making soup or
purges.
Potage a la Purge de Pois Sees. Wash the leaves and stem them,
1 Pint of Dried or Split Peas. the entire length of the leaf. Then
1 Quart of Boiling Water. chop them flne until you have . a
1 Small Bunch of Celery. IBunch of Parsley. quantity equal to a pint or two tea-
1 Quart of Good Milk or Cream. cupfuls. Chop the other vegetables
2 Onions. and put these and the sorrel into a
Salt and Pepper to Taste. saucepan with the butter; cover and
26

let them stew gently or ten minutes; Prepare a good broth and cook till
and then add the flour, which has it is reduced to three pints; this will
been well mixed with a, little water. serve six persons. Chop the lettuce
Pour gradually, stirring always, into fine and stew it with a tablespoonful
the tl,i-ee quarts of boiling water. of butter, adding the pinch of sugar
Beat the yolks of the eggs and mix and one spoon of French vinegar.
with a little cream or milk in a Keep stirring constantly, so that it
tureen. Rub the rest of the cream will not burn. Then add the flour
of milk smooth with the mashed po- (which has been rolled smoothly in
tato and put into the soup; add the butter), the pepper and salt, throw in
seasonings. Prepare toast in the a dash of Cayenne pepper. Break in
form of dice, rubbing them first the egg and stir thoroughly. Then
"With the raw onion, and pour some pour on the broth. Place the dice
of the boiling soup over the eggs in of bread in the tureen, and add the
the tureen and mix very carefully. gill of cream to the soup before
Put in the pieces of toast, and then pouring over the bread.
add the remainder of the soup. Cover
and stand five minutes in a warm Okra Sonp.
oven, and serve hot. Potage de F6vi.
2 Pints of Olira, or Fifty Counted.
Potato Soup,
G Fresh Tomatoes. 2 Onions Chopped Flue.
Potage Parraentier. 2 Tablespoonfuls of Butter.
8 Potatoes. 2 Onions, Cut Fine. 3 Sprigs of Parsley.
1 Cup of Cream
or Rich llilk. 2 Sprigs of Thyme. 1 Bay Loaf.
1 Pincli of Grated Nutmjeg. 3 Quarts of Water. Salt and Pepper to Taste.
1 TailespoontuI of Butter. Pepper and Salt. A Red Pepper Pod, Without the Seed.
After washing and peeling the po- Wash and stem the okra and then
tatoes, put them into a saucepan slice very fine. Chop the toma-
it
with the onions and add about two toes fine, being careful to preserve
quarts of cold water. Bring to a the juice. Chop the onions fine and
boil. After allowing to cook abDut fry -them in the butter. Then add
forty minutes, if the vegetables are the chopped thyme, bay leaf, parsley
then very tender, mash and pass all and tomatoes and the pepper pod,
through a sieve, and, returning to and, after letting it stew about five
the Are, add the seasoning and but- minutes, add the okra, stirring con-
ter. Bring to a boil, and add the stantly almost, as it burns quickly.
cream and a beaten egg, serving im- When well browned, add the juice of
mediately with Crotltons. the tomatoes. Then add the hot wa-
ter, and set on the back of the stove
Carrot Sonp,
and let it simmer "well for about an
Potage Crecy. hour and a half. Season to taste
Large Carrots (tbe redder the better). and serve hot, with Croutons.
4
2 Large Onions, Cut Fine. N. B.
The housekeeper should al-
ways remember that okra must be
1 Quart of New Milk. I Turnip.
1 Teaspoon of Corn Starcli. cooked in a porcelain-lined pot, as
2 Sticks of Celery. 1 Bay Leaf. iron or other metal tends to blacken
Sprig of Tliyme. Sprig of Parsley. it.
3 Cloves. Winter Okra Soup.
1 Large Teaspoonful of Butter.
Potage F6vi d'Hiver.
Salt and Pepper and Sugar tn Taste.
Wash the vegetables thoroughly, 1 Can of Good New Orleans Olira.

cutting them fine and bailing until 1 Can of Tomatoes.


2 Onions Chopped Fine.
tender in three pints of water. Wiie;! 2 Tablespoonfuls of Butter.
very soft, mash them and vress 2 Dozen Oysters. 3 Tablespoonfuls of Rice.
through a sieve. The cnrrots must A Red Pepper Pod, Without the Seed.
be mashed very fine. Then return to Chop the onions fine and fry theni
the fire, and, adding about two ciuarcs in the butter. Wash
the rice well,
of boiling water, cover and simmer then stew the onions, tomatoes an,l
gently for a while, adding one tea- pepper together in about three quarts
spoonful of cornstarch that has been of water and one pint of oyster water
blended well with a little milk. Add for about three hours, stirring fre-
the boiling milk and cook for about quently. Ten minutes before serving
two minutes more, and serve wiLli add the okra and let it come to a
Croatons. (See recipe.) boil. Then drop in the oysters. Boil
up once and serve.
Lettuce Soup, Onion Soup.
Potage de Laitues. Potage &, rOgnon.
1 Large Head of Lettuce. 3 Large Onions. Sliced Very Thin or Chopped.
1 Spoon of French Vinegar. 1
V4 Cup of Flour.
Egir.
1 Tablespoonful of Butter. 1 Gill of Cream.
1 Large Spoon of Butter.
1 Teaspoonful of Flour. 1 Quart of Milk.
Dices of Stale Bread. 2 Large Potatoes, Mashed Fine.
1 Pinch of Sugar.
Dice of Bread or Toast.
3 Quarts of Broth.
Salt and Pepper.
'

27

Pry the onions in the butter, until der. Set the milk to boil in a fa-
reddish brown. Then add the flour rina boiler, and as it heats well, adii
and stir until browned, gently; do to it the water and celery that have
not burn. Put the boiling water In been pressed. Rub smoothly to-
gradually, stirring perfectly smooth, gether the, flour and butter, and then
and adding the salt and pepper; mix stir into the boiling soup, stirring
well and boil one minute. Tlien pour constantly till it thickens to a cream
it into the kettle and set back. Be- of the right consistency. Add salt
fore serving, add the milk warmed, and pepper to taste and serve hot. It
and rubbed with mashed potatoes is very delicious served with slices
until they are a smooth paste. Sim- of delicately toasted and buttered
mer a few moments. Have the pieces Crofltons. Serve on a separate dis!>
of toast ready in the tureen and pour and garnish with sprigs of parsley
in the hot soup. A pure of onions and slices of hard-boiled eggs.
is made by pressing the ingredients
through a sieve and returning to Cream of Corn Soup.
the Are for a few moments. Servo CrSme de Mais.
Potage a, la
hot.
2 Pints of Grated Corn.
Cream of Onion Soup.
i Qnarts ot Boiling Water.
Purge d'Ognons. 1 Pint of Hot Milk or Cream.
3 Tablespoon tuls ot Butter.
6 Onions. %
Ounce of Batter. 2 Level Tablespoonfuls of Flour.
1% Pints of Cream. 2 Ounces of Flour. The Yolks of 2 Kggs.
2 Pints of Boiling Water.
Salt and Pepper to Taste.
Pepper. Kutmeg.
Peel the onions and boil In salted Slit the corn in two and grate
water until very tender; then drain from the cobs. Put the cobs into tha
and dry well with a cloth; put them boiling water and let them boil slow-
on the fire in a saucepan, with one ly about an hour, till the water is
ounce of butter; add the other in- reduced to three quarts. Then take
gredients, except the remaining half the cobs out and drain over the ket-
ounce of butter. When the soup tle. Add the corn an^a let it boil till
comes to a boil, press tiirough the very soft. This will require about
sieve, and return to the fire; add the thirty minutes. Take the soup off
remainder of the butter and serve. and press all through a sieve. Sea-
This is a very delicately flavored soup son highly and set back to simmer
for fast days. gently, adding, in- the meanwhll?,
the flour and butter, thoroughly
Cream of Tomato Soap. rubbed together. Stir constantly till
Potage aux Tomates. the soup thickens, and then add the
boiling milk. Cook a moment only,
2 Quarts of Pure Tomoto Julco. take off the fire, stir in tiie beaten
1 Gill ot Rice. 3 Onions. 8 Allspice. yolks and serve hot. with buttered
4 Cloves. A Sprig ot Thyme. toast cut in dice shape.
A Pinch ot Sugar to Taste.
Pepper and Salt. Cream of Asparagus Soup,
Stew the Tomatoes for about two
hours, and then extract the Juice.
Cr^me d'Asperges.
Add the other ingredients, and boil 1 Large Bnncb of Asparagus.
for about an hour and a half; then 1 Tablespoontjl ot Butter. 1 Qnait ot Milk.
strain. The being creamy,
rice, 3 Tablespoonfuls of Rich Cream.
should now make the soup as thick 2 Eveu Table.'ipoonfuls of Flour or
as cream. Serve with CroQtons or Corn Starch.
Quenelles. (See recipe). .
Salt and Pepper to Taste.
In the summertime, when tomatoes
are so plentiful in New Orleans, this Wash the Asparagus, tie it in a
is not only one of the most delightful bunch and put a saucepan of boil-
in
but one of the least extravagant ing water. Let it boil gently for
cream soups that can be made. about three-quarters of an hour, or
until perfectly tender. Take it from
Cream of Celery Soup, the water, cut off the tips or points
and put them aside until wanted.
Potage a. la Cr^me de Celeri.
Put the milk on to boil in a farina
Celery Stalks. 2 Qnarts ot Milk or Cream. boiler. Press the Asparagus stalks
2 Tablespoonfnls of Flour. through a colander, and add them
1 Pint of Water. 1 Tablespoonful of Butter. to the milk. Rub the butter and
^
Small Onion. cornstarch or flour together until
Salt a.nd Pepper to Taste. perfectly smooth, and add to tne
Wash the celery and onion and cut boiling milk, stirring constantly .till
into fine pieces. Then place them in it thickens. Now add the Asparagus
a porcelain-lined saucepan and let tops, salt and pepper, and serve,
boil for about a half hour. Take off without CroOtons, as the Asparagus
and mash, and press through a colan- tips form a beautiful garnish.
28

Cream of Spinach Soup. (ivill have been added. Serve hot


with CroOtons or Crackers.
Potage a. la Creme d'Epinards. On other than fast days this is
Half a Peek or Four Pints of Spinach. most delicious made with Chicken
2 Ounces of Fresh Butter. ConsommS.
Two Quarts of Oyster Water.
1 Teaspoonfnl of Salt.
Rice Soup, Without Meat.
1 Teaspoonful of Granulated Sugar. Riz au Maigre.
^y4 of a Grated Nutmeg.
1 Cup of Rice. The Yolks of 2 Eggs.
Wash and boil one-half peck, or 3 Quarts of Water. 1 Spoon of Butter,
four pints of Spinach; this quantity 1 Plat of Milk. Pepper and Salt.
will measure about one pint when Wash the rice thffroughly, rubbing
cooked, chopped and pounded into a dry. Put it in a saucepan with one
fine paste. Then put it into a stew pint of cold water; when swelled, add
pan with four ounces of fresh but- one pint of boiling water; and when
ter, the grated nutmeg and a tea-
it begins to get very tender, add the
spoonful of salt. Let it cook for
ten minutes, stirring constantly. Add
remaining pint of boiling water.
to this two quarts of oyster juice (on
Add the pepper and salt. Beat up
other than fast days consommS may the yolks of the eggs with a few
be used, or good bouillon). Let all tablespoonfuls of cream. When
boil up, and then press through a quite smooth, stir in carefully a few
strainer. Set it over the fire again spoonfuls of the boiling rice water,
and just at the boiling point ,mix and then pour the eggs and cream in-
with it a tablespoonful of butter, to the saucepan, stirring very brisk-
and a teaspoonful of granulated sug- ly. Draw aside and stir for two or
ar. Serve hot with Croutons. tliree minutes, but do not allow the
soup to boil when once the eggs are
Cream of Bnrley Soup. added.
Purge d'Orge. Coconnut Soup.
3 Tablespoonfuls of Barley, or a Half Cup.
1 Pint of Cream or Milk. Potage de Cocoa.
TLe Yolks of 2 Eggs 3 Quarts of Water 6 or 8 Calves' Feet.
(boiling). ^ Pound of Grated Cocoanut.
Salt and Pepper to Taste. 1 of Water.
Gallon
1 Pint of Ceam or Rich Milk.
Scald the barley and then put into
1 Tablespoonful of Flour or Arrowroot,
a kettle with three quarts of boil- 3 Ounces of Fresh Butter.
ing water and let it boil about three ""
Blades of Slace.
hours. Take it off and mash thor-
oughly, and strain through a sieve. The Grated Rind of 1 Lemon.
Add the hot milk to the stock of the Scald the calves' feet, and scrape
barley, season with salt and pepper, thoroughly w^ithout skinning; put
and let it come to a boil. Take off them into tiie soup kettle with a gal-
and add the yolks of two eggs. lon of cold water, and cover the ket-
Cream of Rice Soup. tle well. Let the feet come to a slow
boil and skim carefully. Then add
.

Crme de Riz. the blades of mace and let the soup


boil slowly till the meat is reduced
1 Cup of Rice. 3 Quarts of Water.
to rags and has fallen from the bones.
1 Pint of Milk. The Yolks of 2 Eggs. Then strain into a white porcelain
1 Tablespoonful of Butter.
Pepper and Salt to Taste.
dish or pan, and set it away to cool.
After it has congealed, scrape oft fat
Wash the Rice thoroughly, rubbing and sediment, and a beautiful jelly
dry. Put it into a saucepan with pne will remain. Cut up this cake of
quart of cold water; when swelled Jelly and put it into a thoroughly
add one quart of boiling water, and cleansed, white porcelain soup kettle.
when it begins to get very tender In the meantime grate the cocoanut
add the remaining quart of boiling very fine, till about a half pound Is
water. Then add the pepper and on hand. Mix this with the pint of
salt. Take from the fire, mash the rich cream or milk, and add the
rice well and rub all through a butter which has been rolled smooth-
sieve. Beat up the yolks of the eggs ly in the arrowroot or flour. Mix
well with a few tablespoonfuls of this carefully and gradually with the
cream. When quite smooth stir In calves' feet stock or soup, and sea-
carefully a few spoons of the boil- son with a grated nutmeg. The soup
ing rice water, and then pour the should then be set back on the Are
eggs and cream or milk into the and allowed to boil slowly for about
saucepan with the rice, which you fifteen minutes, stirring almost con-
will have returned to the stove. Mix stantly. Pour into the tureen and
briskly and then draw aside and serve with French rolls, or milk bis-
stir for two or three minutes, be- cuit, made very light and thin. On
ing very careful not to allow the fast days omit the calves' feet, using
mixture to boil when once the eggs another ounce of butter instead.
29

The Creoles often serve powdered time, shell the chestnuts and throw
white sugar in gmall plates or in them into boiling water until the
salt cellars for those of the company skin comes oft easily. Put them into
who prefer more sweetening. a saucepan with some of the soup wa-
ter, and boil about thirty minutes,
Cliestnnt Soup. till quite soft. Press through a col-
ander; add butter, pepper and salt.
Potage a. la FurSe de Marrons. Then add to the soup. Make dump-
lings the size of a marble with fresh
3 Quarts of Oyster Water, or
A Good Round of Beef or Veal, butter rolled in flour, and add. (See
1 Quart of Cliestnuts. 1 Ueib Bouquet.
recipe for Dumplings.) Boil the
Cayenne Feppcr. soup about fifteen minutes longer
and serve. Some prefer the soup
Makea good broth of the veal or without dumplings, thinking It gives
beef; season with the Cayenne pep- more of the flavor of the chestnuts.
per and salt. Follow the rule given On fast days use the oyster water
for making soups, by allowing a instead of the bee^ broth, following
pound of meat to each quart of wa- the recipe in all other particulars,
ter. Skim and boll till the meat falls and adding a half tablespoonful of
into rags; then strain and put in a butter to the purge before pressing
clean porcelain pot. In the mean- through the colander.

CHAPTER VI.

THE noUILLI.

"Le Bouilli.'

Before leaving the subejct of soups aristocratic dinners. For breakfast


it has been thought advisable to de- the boiled beef left over utilized
is
vote a short chapter to the "Bouilli," in various ways.
or the meat that is usually
boiled The has selected from
Picayune
thrown away by other nationalities among many the following recipes
than the Creole and French when the which need only to be tried to be re-
"Pot-au-Feu," the "Consommfi" c peated often, or perhaps daily, in one
the "Bouillon" has been completed. form or the other.
The Creoles long ago discovered The recipes for the sauces men-
or rather brought over with them ,
tioned will be found in the chapter
from the mother country, France, especially devoted to "Creole Sauces."
the delightful possibilities for a
good entree that lurked within the Mirontous.
generally despised and cast aside The Left-Oyer Bouilli.
Bouilli, and these possibilities they 3 Large Onions. 6 Shallots,
Improved upon in their own unique 1 Clove of Garlic. Sprig of Thyme.
1
and palatable styles of cuisine prep- 1 Bay Leaf. 2 Pickles.
arations. 1 Tablespoonfulof Flour.
In Prance the "Bouilli" is always 1 Tablespoonful of Butter.
served at the home dinner, and so Salt, Pepper and Cayenne to Taste.
with the new France, New Orleans. This is a favorite way the Cre-
Far from rejecting the "Bouilli" as oles have of serving the cold bouilli
unpalatable and unfit for food, the that has been saved from the preced-
Creoles discovered many delightful ing day:
ways of serving it, and their theorie.< Slice the onions fine; brown in one
of the nutrition that still remained tablespoonful of butter. Chop the
in the boiled beef have been sus- 'shallots and add to the onions, tlien
tained by medical science. The most add the garlic, thyme and bay leaf, all
eminent scientists have found by ex- chopped very fine, and season witli
periment that while heat coagulates salt, Cayenne and black pepper to
the nutritious substances of the beef, taste. When the whole is browning
only a small amount is dissolved nicely, add a tablespoonful of flour
when the water is heated gradually, and water, or left-over broth, suffi-
and that the "Bouilli" is still valu- cient to cover. Season this to taste
able as an article of food. and then take two pickles, about one
The pleasant ways that the Cre- finger long, slice very fine, and add.
oles have af preparing it restores its Let all boil about fifteen minutes
flavor and makes it a delightful and then lay the cold bouilli, which
accompaniment to even the most has been thickly sliced, in the sauce.
30

Set it to bake in tlie oven about heat and brown in butter. Then
t\v"enty minutes. Garnish Willi but- moisten with a little bouillon. Boll
tered toast and serve hot. the sauce down, and when nearly
ready to serve, thicken with a little
Boiled Beef Snut Ik la Lyonnalse. butter. Serve in a gravy dish with
Bouilli SautS la Lyonnaise. fi.
the "Bouilli," which has- been nicely
The Boullll. 3 Onions.
and tastefully garnistied with let-
] Tablespoonful of Lard. tuce leaves on a parsley bed.
: T.'Jblespoonful of Olive Oil.
Tablespoonful of Chili Vinegar.
Boiled Beef WItli Tomatoes.
1
The Peel of One Lemon. Bouilli aux Tomates.
Slice the onions and brown them The, Bouilli.
in lard, using about one tablespoon- % Dozen Tomatoes.
ful. Skim the lard oft the onions 2 Cups of Bouillon.
and put the beef in the pan. Stir ^i Teaspoonful of Flour.
up and smother. Add the oil, the 1 Clove of Garlic.
peel of a lemon, cut fine, and the 1 Sprig Each of Thyme and Parsley.
Cliili vinegar. Serve hot. 1 Bay Leaf.

Boiled Beef H la Bordelnise. Take a half dozen fine, ripe toma-


toes, and parboil them in butter, be-
Bouilli a. la Bordelaise. ing careful not to let them burn.
The BonilU. Add a pinch of flour and two good
H Dozen Shallots. cups of bouillon, a little salt and
Glass of White Wine.
1 pepper, a clove of garlic, a sprig of
2 Teaspooufuls of Sauce Espagnoie. parsley, thyme and bay leaf. After
Slice the left-over beef. Then hash two hours, take out the tomatoes
the shallots into very fine pieces; add and allow the beef to cook a few
a glass of white wine, pepper and minutes in the sauce. Then serve on
salt to taste, and boil to half the a flat dish, arranging the tomatoes
quantity over a brisk Are. Then add around the beef and under each to-
the mashed beef marrow from the mato put a nice piece of buttered
bone and two teaspooufuls of "Sauce toast.
Espagnoie" (see recipe), first melt- Boiled Beef ft la Bmxelloise.
ing the marrow in a little bouillon. Bouilli a, la Bruxelloise.
Stir rapidly over the fire, and as
soon as it begins to bubble, with- The Bouilli.
1 Dozen Brussels Sprouts.
draw it and set it back on the stove, 4 Tablespooufuls of Butter.
letting it simmer gently for a quar-
3 Sprigs of Pareley.
ter of an hour. Add the sliced beef Salt and Pepper to Taste.
for about ten minutes and then serve
with Crofltons or fried crusts. Take- about a dozen Brussels
sprouts and blanch them in boiling
Boiled Beef Si Paysaune,
la water. Drain thoroughly and stew
Bouilli a, la Paysanne. in butter with chopped parsley. Af-
The Bouilli. ter they have cooked ten minutes,
5 Large ^Onions. take them out of the pah and pirboil
1 Tablespoonful of. Butter. them in fresh butter, which has been
1 Teaspoonful of Flour. melted before the stove. Salt and
1 Wineglassful of Claret. pepper to taste and garnish nicely
A Dash of Mustard and Vinegar. around the bouilli and serve.
Hash the left-over beef, and then Boiled Beef en Pnplllottes.
chop five large onions very fine and
cook them to a golden brown in but- Bouilli en Papillottes.
ter. When nearly done, dust over The Boullll.
them a teaspoonful of flnur and 2 Tablespoonfuls of fintter.
moisten with a little red wine. Cook 6 Sausages. (Cbaurlce.)
the onions till done and then put 2 Eggs. 1 Cup Bi'ead Crumbs.
in the cold hashed beef, adding a 4 Sprigs of Paraley.
dash of French vinegar and a little Salt and Pepper to Taste.
mustard and serve.
This is a nice breakfast dish. Take
Boiled Bef a I'Indlenne. the left-over bouilli cut in slices and
Bouilli a. I'Indienne. parboil slightly in butter. Make a
The Bonilll.
forcemeat or quenelle of pork sau-
sage, garlic, parsley and moistened
1 Teaspoonful of Powdered Saffron. bread crumbs, add two eggs, salt
2 Cayenne Pepper Pods.
and pepper. Put a layer of this
1 Tablespoonful of Butter.
"farci" between each layer of sliced
% Cup of Bouillon. > beef, and, then add the bread crumbs,
This is a dinner dish. Crush the mixed with chopped parsley.
pods of two Cayenne peppers and a Put
the beef in oiled paper, folded as
teaspoonful of powdered saffron and tightly as possible, cook a quarter
31

of an hour in the oven and serve in Boiled Beef Wltli Egg Toast.
the pappillottes (paper.).
Bouilli au "Pain Perdu."
Boiled Beef With Carrot Sauce.
6 Slices of Bouim.
Bouilli a, la Crfioy. 6 Slices of Stale Bread.
The Boullli. 2 Eggs. 1 Pint of Milk.
4 Carrots. 2 Onions. 2 Tablespoonfuls of Butter.
1 Gill of Cream. Parsley and Lettuce Leaves to Garnish.
2 Sticks of
Celery. Take
left-over or stale bread, slice
3 Sprigs of I'arsley. Sprig of 1 Tliyme. it thickly and dip in cream or milk.
1 Tablespoonful of Butter. Then dip it in the beaten whites and
Salt and Pepper to laste. yolks of egg and fry in butter. Cut
Make a good pure of fine, red oar- the bouilli into slices to match the
rots (see recipe), and then strain in bread, dip it in the egg and fry also..
butter. Ad'd a gill of rich cream Serve on a dish with chopped parsley
and salt and pepper to the taste. Put dashed over it and a garnish of pars-
the bouilli in the platter and pour thj ley or lettuce leaves.
sauce around it, serving hot just af-
ter the soup. Boiled Beef Saut With Onions.
Boilcil Beef ^Vltli Lettuce. Bouilli Satite aux Ognons.
Bouilli a, la Laitue. The Bouilli.
The Bouilli. 3 Large Oulons.
6 Bead of Lettuce. 2 Hard-Boiled Eggs. 2 Tablespoonfuls of Butter.
1. Clove of Garlic. 3 Sprigs of Parsley.
12 Sausages. (Chaurice.)
1% Cups Bread Crumbs. The Juice of 1 Lemon.
Salt aud Pepper to Taste. Take three fine onions and parboil
them in butter over a slow fire. When
Take heads of lettuce,
six fine, firm
a rich, creamy brown, add clove gar-
strip off all the green leaves, wash lic and Cayenne pepper.
tlioroughly and soak and blanch in Cut the
bouillon in thin slices and add, shak-
toiling water. Then throw them in- ing the pan until browned. Place in
to cold water. When very cold tlie platter and serve with chopped
squeeze in a towel till they are thor- parsley dusted over, and the juice oi"
oughly dry and cut off the stalks a lemon squeezed over it.
from below without injuring the
heart. Fill this open place witli Boiled Beef fi la Marscllaise.
forcemeat balls, made Irom the bouilli Bouilli a. la Marsellaise.
after recipe already given in
the
Boiled Beef en Papillottes, that is,
'
The Bouilli.
fry them in lard, with fresh bread ] Dozen Small Onions.
crumbs soaked in bouillon and % Cup Claret. % Cup Meat Gravy.
worked into the meat. Chop up with Vi Can of Mushrooms.

pepper, salt and garlic, and add one 1 Herb Bouquet. % of a Grated Nutmeg.
Salt and Pepper to Taste.
or two hard- boiled eggs. Tie the
the bouilli into thin,
Slice fine
balls up and cook without adding slices. Take a dozen onions, the
water and fill the heart of the let- smallest kind, and dust over with
tuce. This may be served around tlra-
sugar, and bake in the oveh. When a
tody of the bouilli and makes a. beau- good color, put a little of the bouil-
tiful garnish.
lon in the stewing pan and boil down
Bciled Beet ft la Lronnalse. one half. Moisten with a cup of red
Bouilli a, la Dyonnaise. wine and thick meat sauce, allowing
half and half in proportion. Then
The Bouilli.
(Chaurice.)
add the beet, the mushrooms, the
6 Sausages.
Clove of Garlic. 3 Sprigs of Parsley.
bouquet garni, salt, pepper and a '

1
little nutmeg, and serve very hot.
1 Sprig of Thyme.
2 Eggs. Bread Crumbs. Boiled Beef Sausage.
^ The Juice of 1 Lemon.
Saucisse de Bouilli.
Make sausage meat of the bouilli,
adding pork sausage, garlic,
the The Bouilli.

parsley and thyme. Moisten some 1 Pound of Pork. 3 Sprigs of Parsley.


bread crumbs in water and dissolve 1 Clove of Garlic.
6 Allspice. 3 Truffles.
over them two eggs, salt and pepper.
Chop the whole and tie it tightly in a A Dash of Cayenne.
1 Wineglass of Madeira.
cabbage leaf. An hour before serv-
Cup of Bouillon.
ing take out the remaining bouilli V>

and the farci or stuffed cabbage leaf. Take the


bouilli of the day be-
Let them cool and cut the.m into fore, mince and add chopped pars-
slices and roll these in beaten eggs, ley, a few spices, salt and Cayenne
and then in bread crumbs, and fry pepper, and a little beef extract
in butter. Throw over them a dash saved from the bouillon. Take a
of powdered parsley and squeeze over pound of pork and add, mixing
all the juice of a, lemon. thoroughly. When the whole is well
32

way of serv
This is the simplest
mixed, add a few truffles and a little bouilli, and the one most
Madeira. Fill some entrails that ing the dish.
have been thoroughly cleansed with used by the Creoles as a daily
bouillon,
this meat and shape the sausage
as Take the bouilli from thelaying the
one desires. Boil in butter and serve and serve on a platter,
This makes an excel. ent whole on a bed of parsley and let-
alone.
tuce.' Serve with salt or French
breakfast dish. dressing.
Beef Croqaettcs.
Croquettes de Boeuf. A Good Every-Day Hnsh,
The Bouilli. Hachis.
1 Pound , ot Poik or Sausage Meat.
1 Clove of Garlic. 1 Quart of Chopped Soup Meat.
Onions. Whites ot 3 Eggs. 1 Onion. 2 Potatoes.
2
3 Sprigs ot Parsley. 2 Hard-Boiled Eggs.
1 Cup of Bread Crumbs. 1 Taljlespoonful of Butter.
Salt and 'Pepper. % Pint ot Water.
Mince the beef with sausage meat
Salt and Pepper to Taste,
.

salt A Dash of Cayenne.


and add garlic, parsley, pepper,
and onions, and bread crumbs soalced
two Chop the left-over bouilli fine in
in water. the whites ot
Add dice shapes, and to every quart of
eggs beaten to a froth. Make into the meat allow one onion, a table-
balls ana roll in the beaten
white
not spoonfill of butter, two hard-boiled
of an egg, and fry, being careful eggs, two cold (left-over) potatoes,
to cook too rapidly. When sufficient- a half pint of water, and salt and pep-
ly browned, pile in a pyramid shape per to taste. Chop the potatoes,
on a dish, garnish with parsley sprigs onions and eggs fine and put them
and serve. into the stewing pan with the meat,
Boiled Beef Gros Sel. adding by degrees the butter, salt
Bouilli Gros Sel. and pepper with a little dash of Ca-
The Bouilli. yenne. Stew very slowly for about
Parsley. 1 Head of Lettuce. fifteen or twenty minutes and serve
1 Bunch of
A Freuch Dressing. hot.

CHAPTER VII.

CREOLE GUMBO.
Gombo a, la CrSole.

Gumbo,of all other products of by their white Creole mistresses


They need only to be tried to prove
the New
Orleans cuisine, represents a
most distinctive type of the evolu- thier perfect claim to the admiration
tion of good cookery under the hands of the many distinguished visitors
of the famous Creole cuisinigres of and epicures who have paid trib-

old New Orleans. Indeed, the word ute to our Creole Gumbo:
"evolution" fails to apply when Gumbo File.
speaking of Gumbo, for it is an orig-
inal conception, a something sui- Gombo File.
generis in cooking, peculiar to
this ancient Creole city alone, First, It will be necessary to ex-
and to the manor born. With equal plain here, for the benefit of many,,
ability the olden Creole cooks saw the that "Fil6" is a powder manufactured,
possibilities of exquisite and deli- by the remaining tribe of Choctaw
cious combinations, in making Gumbu Indians in Louisiana, from the young
and hence we have many varieties, ond tender leaves of the sassafras.
tillthe occult science of making a The Indian squaws gather the leaves-
good "Gombo a, la Creole" seems to and spread them out on a stone mor-
the Picayune too fine an inheritance tar to dry. When thoroughly dried,,
of gastronomic lore to remain for- they pound them into a fine powder,,
ever hidden away in the cuisines of pass them through a hair sieve, and.
this oid Southern metropolis.
. The then bring the FllS to New Orleans
following recipes, gathered with care to sell, coming twice a week to the-
from the best Creole housekeepers French Market, from the old reser-
of New Orleans, have been handed vation set aside for their home oa
down from generation to generation Bayou Lacombe, near Mandeville,.
by the old negro cooks, and preserved La. The Indians used sassafras;
In all their delightful combinations leaves and the sassafras for many
33

medicinal purposes, and still sell substituting the round ,of the beef
bunches of the dried roots in the for the chicken.
French Market. The Creoles, quick
to discover and apply, found the pos-
sibilities of the powdered sassafras,
Turkey Gumbo.
or "File," and originated the well- Gombo de Dinde.
known dish, "Gumbo File."
To make a good "Gumbo Fil," use The Remains of a Turkey.
the following ingredients: % Pound of Lean Ham.
2 Tablespoons of Butter or 1 ol Lard.
1 Large Tender Chicken. 1 Bay Leaf. 3 Sprigs of Parsley.
2 Large Slices or Vi Pound Lean Ham. 3 Dozen Oysters.
2 Tablespooufuls Butter or 1 o Lard.
o '
1 Large Onion. 1 Sprig of Thyme.
1 Bay Leaf. 3 Sprigs o Parsley. 2 Quarts of Oyster Water.
" 3 Dozen Oysters.
I Large Onion.
% Pod o Red Pepper, Without the Seeds.
1 Sprig of Tliyme. Salt, Pepper and Cayenne to Taste.
2 Quarts of Oyster Water.
2 Quarts of Boiling Water. Nothing is ever lost in a well-regu-
lated Creole kitchen. When turkey
1 Half Pod of Red Peppei-, Without the Seeds. is served one day, the remains or
Salt and Pepper and Cayenne to Taste.
"left-over" are saved and made into
Clean and out up the chicken as
for a fricassee. Dredge with salt
that most excellent dish a Turkey
Gumbo. It is made in the same man-

and black pepper, judging according ner as Chicken Gumbo, only instead
to taste. Cut the ham into dice of the chicken, the turkey meat,
shapes and chop the onion, parsley black and white, that is left over, is
and thyme very fine. Put the lard stripped from the bones and car-
or butter into the soup kettle or deep
stewing pot, and when hot, put in
cass. Chop fine and add to the hot
lard, and then put in the ham, cut
the ham and chicken. Cover closely fine into dice shapes. Proceed exact-
and fry for about five or ten minutes. ly as in the recipe above, only after
Then add the onion and parsley 'and adding the boiling water, throw in
thyme, stirring occasionally to pre- the bones and carcass of the turkey.
vent burning. When nicely browned At the proper time remove the car-
add the boiling water and throw in cass and bones, add the oysters,
the oyster stock, which has been and then remove the pot and "File"
thoroughly heated. Add the bay leaf the gumbo. Serve with boiled rice.
chopped very fine, and the pepper Turkey Gumbo, when made from the
pod, cut in two, and set the gumbo remains of wild turkey, has a deli-
back to simmer for about an hour cious flavor.
longer. When nearly ready to serve
dinner, and while the Gumbo is boil-
ing, add the fresh oysters. Let
Squirrel or Rabbit Gumbo.
the gumbo remain on the stove for
about three minutes longer, and then Gombo d'Bcureil ou de Lapin.
remove the pot from the fire. Have These are famous Creole Gumbos.
ready the tureens, set in a "bain- The following ingredients are used:
marie" Or hot water bath, for once
the File is added the gumbo must 1 Fine Squirrel or Rabbit.
never be warmed over. Take two 2 Slices or 14 Pound of Lean Ham.
tablespoonfuls of the File and drop
3 Sprigs ol Parsley. 1 Sprig of Thyme.
gradually into the pot of boiling hot
Gumbo, stirring slowly to mix thor- 1 Bay Leaf. 1 Large Onion.
oughly; pour into the tureen, or tur- 3 Dozen Oysters.
eens, if there should be a second de- 2 Quarts of Oyster Water.
mand and serve with boiled rice. (See
recipe.) The rice, it should be re- % Pod of Red Pepper, Without the Seed.
marked, must be boiled so that the A 'Dash of Cayenne.
grains stand quite apart, and brought Salt and Pepper to Taste.
to the table in a separate dish, cov-
ered. Serve about two spoonfuls of Skin, clean and out up the squirrel
rice to one plate of gumbo. or rabbit, as for a fricasse. Dredge
The above recipe is for a family well with salt and black pepper. Cut
of six. Increased quantities in pro- the ham into dice shapes, and chop
portion as required. Never boil the the onion, parsley and thyme very
gumbo Tvith the rice, and never add fine. Put the lard or butter into a
the File while the gumbo is on the deep stew pot and, when hot, put in
fire, as boiling after the file Is added the squirrel or rabbit. Cover closely
tends to make the gumbo stringy and and fry for about eight or ten min-
unfit for use, else the File is preci- utes. Then proceed in exactly the
pitated to the bottom of the pot, same manner as for Chicken Gumbo;
which is equally to be avoided. add the "file" at the time indicated,
Where families cannot afford a and serve with boiled Louisiana rice.
fcwl, a good gumbo may be made by (See recipe.)
34

Otera Gumbo, gxe" dish with the Creoles. Hard or


Gombo F4vi,
soft-shelled crabs may be used,
though more frequently the former,
1 Chicken. 1 Onion. as they are always procurable and
6 Large Fresh Tomatoes. far cheaper than the latter article,
2 Pints of Okra, or Fifty Counted. which is considered a luxury. Crabs
V2 Pod ot Red PeppCT, Without the Seeds. are always sold alive. Scald the
2 Large Siices ot Ham. hard-shell crabs and clean according
1 Bay Leaf. 1 Sprig of Thyme or Parsley. to recipe already given, "taking oft
1 Tablespooufal ot Lard or Two Level Spoons the dead man's lingers" and the
of Butter. spongy substances, and being care-
Salt and Cayenne to Taste. ful to see that the sandbags on" the
Clean and cut up the chicken. under part are removed. Then cut
Cut the ham into small squares or off the claws, crack and cut the
dice and chop the onions, parsley and body ot the crab in quarters. Sea-
thyme. Skin the tomatoes, and chop son nicely with salt and pepper. Put
ilne, saving the juice. Wash and stem the lard into the pot, and when hot
the okras and slice into thin layers throw in the bodies and claws. Cover
of one-half inch each. Put the lard closely, and, after flve or ten minutes
or butter into the soup kettle, and add the skinned tomatoes, chopped
n-hen hot add the chicken and the onions, thyme and parsley, stirring
ham. Cover closely and let it sim- occassionally to prevent scorching.
mer for about ten minutes. Then After flve minutes add the okras,
add the chopped onions, parsley, sliced fine, and when well-browned,
thyme and tomatoes, stirring fre- without the semblance of scorching,
quently to prevent scorching. Then add the bay leaf, chopped fine, and
add the okras, and, when well- the juice of the tomatoes. Pour over
browned, add the juice of the toma- about two quarts and a half of
tces,which imparts a superior flavor. boiling water, and set back on the
Ihe okra is very delicate and is li- stove and let it simmer well for
able to scorch quickly if not stirred about an hour, having thrown in the
frequently. For this reason many pepper pod. When nearly ready to
Creole cooks fry the okra separately serve, season according to taste with
in a frying pan, seasoning with the Cayenne and added salt; pour into
pepper, Cayenne and salt, and then a tureen and serve with boiled rice.
add to the chicken. But equally good This quantity will allow two soft-
results .may be obtained with less shell crabs or two bodies of hard-
trouble by simply adding the okra shelled crabs to eacn person. The
to the frying chicken, and watching soft-shell crab is simply the hard-
constantly to prevent scorching. The shelled crab that has shed its shell.
least taste ot a "scorch" spoils the In three or four days the shell be-
flavor of the gumbo. When well gins to harden again, hence the
fried and browned, add the boiling supply is never as generous as the
water (about three quarts) and set hard-shelled crabs, which are al--
on the back of the stove, letting it ways to be found in the New Orleans
simmer gently for about an hour markets.
longer. Serve hot, with nicely
boiled rice. The remains of tur- Oyster Gumbo.
key may be utilized in the gumbo,
instead of using chicken. Gombo aux Huitres.
In families where it is not possible
i DozenOysters.
to procure a fowl, use a round steak
2 Quarts of Oyster Liquor.
of beef or veal, instead of the chick-
1 Tablespoouful of Lard or Butter.
en, and chop flne. But it must al- 1 Quart of Hot Water.
ways be borne in mind that the 2 Tablespooufuls of Flour.
Chicken Gumbo has the best flavor. 1 Large White Onion.
Much, however, depends upon the Parsley, Thyme and Bay Leaf,
seasoning, which is always high, and Salt and Pepper to Taste.
thus cooked, the Meat Gumbo makes
a most nutritious and excellent dish. Put the lard into a kettle, , and
Crab Guiubo. when hot add the flour, making a
Gombo aux Crabes.
brown roux. When quite brown
without burning, add the chopped
1 Dozen Hard-Shell or Soft-Shell Crabs. onions and parsley. Fry these, and
1 Onion. when brown, add the chopped bay
6 Large Fresh Tomatoes. leaf; pour in the hot oyster liquor
2 Pints ot Okra, or Fifty Counted. and then add the hot water. When
% Pod of Red Pepper, Without the Seeds. it comes to a good boil, just before
1 Bay Iaf. 1 Sprig ot Thyme or Parsley. serving, add the oysters which have
1 Tablespoonful of Lard or Two Level been well drained, without pouring
Spoons of Butter. water over them, however.
Salt and Cayenne to Taste.
Cook
for about three minutes longer and
This is a great fast-day or "mai-
take off the stove and stir gradually
35

two tablespoonfuls of FilS into the oughly, being careful to wash each
boiling hot gumbo. Have the tureen leaf separately, to be sure there lurk
ready in a "bain-marie," or hot- no insects in the folds or ridges.
water bath, and pour in the gumbo Then trim by taking off all the
and cover. Bring to tae table im- coarse midrib of the leaves, which
mediately and serve with boiled rice, will make
the gumbo taste coarse
allowing about six or eight oysters and unpalatable. Boil the leaves to-
to each person. gether for about two hours and' then
Shrimp Gumbo. parboil by adding a teaspoonful of
Gombo aux Chevrettes. cooking soda. Strain and chop very
j_ake Shrimps are always used in fine, being careful to save the wa-
making this gumbo, the river shrimp ter in which they were boiled.. Cut
being too small and delicate. Pur- the brisket of veal and the sliced
chase always about 100 shrimps, or ham into small pieces and dredge
a small basketfull, for there are al- with black pepper and salt, and chop
ways smaller shrimps in the pile one large white or red onion. Put
which, when co6ked, amount to little a heaping teaspoonful of lard into
or nothing. In making Shrimp Gum- a deep frying pan, and, when hot,
bo, either "Fil or Okra may be add the chopped veal and the ham.
used in the combination, but it must Cover and let it simmer for about
be borne in mind that, while the ten minutes, stirring occasionally to
"Fil6" is frequently used, shrimp prevent burning. Then add the
are far more delicious for- gumbo chopped onion and a little sprig of
purposes when used wiih okra. The parsley chopped fine. When it comes
shrimp should always be scalded or to a rich brown, add the greens, and
boiled before putting in the gumbo. when these are browned, pour over
(See recipe for "Boiling Shrimp.") four quarts of the water in which the
Gumbo leaves have been boiled. Throw in
Shrimp File.
the finely chopped bay leaf, thyme,
Gbmbo Fil6 aux Chevrettes. sweet marjoram, and the red pepper
50 Fine Lake Sbrimp. pod and the clove and allspice,
2 Quarts of Oyster Liquor. mashed fine. Set it back on the
1 Quart of Hot Water. stove and let it boil for about one
1 Large Wliite Onion. 1 Bay Leaf. adding the Cayenne
hour longer,
3 Sprigs of rarsley. 1 Sprig of Thyme.
or "hot pepper," and you will have a
Tablespoonful Lard or Butter.
1 of
regular Creole gumbo peculiar to
Tablespoonful of Flour. with
1
A Dash of Cayenne.
New Orleans alone. Serve
boiled rice.
Salt and Black Pepper to Taste.
Scald and shell the shrimp, sea- Cnbbngre Grambo,
.soning highly with the boiling wa-
ter. Put the lard into a kettle, and, Gombo Choux.
when hot, add the flour, making a Large Head of Cabbage (green and white
brown roux. When quite brown, 1
mixed.)
without a semblance of burning, add
nt
1Round Steak.
the chopped onion and the parsley. 2 Large Slices of Lean Ham.
Fry these, and when brown, add the 2 Pounds of Creole Sausage.
chopped bay leaf; pour in the hot (About ^ to Pound.)
oyster liquor and the hot water, 1 Pod of Cayenne Pepper, Without the Seeds.
or use the carefully strained liquor 1 Tablespoonful of Lard.
1 Pint of Milk.
in which the shrimp have been boiled.
Salt and Black Pepper and Cayenne to Taste.
When comes to a good boll, and
it
Cabuage Gumbo,
about five minutes before serving,
Gombo Choux, or
a favorite Creole dish, especially
add the shrimp to the gumbo and
is
in families where there are children,
take off the stove. Then add to the possessing, as it does, nutritive qual-
boiling hot liquid about two table-
ities in tbe highest degree, and be-
spoonfuls of the "File," thickening
Season again ing besides a most palatable and sa-
according to taste. vory way of preparing cabbage.
with salt and pepper to taste. Serve Shred the cabbage and wash each
immediately, with boiled rice, (bee
leaf separately and thoroughly to
recipe, "Boiled Bice.")
avoid insects. Then chop the entire
Green or Herb Gumbo. head very fine, into pieces about half
Gombo aux Herbes. the size of dice. Cut the steak or
A Veal Brisket. brisket into small squares, also the
1 Large Slice of Lean Ham.
Equal Parts of the Leaves of Young ham, and fry in the deepest kettle
Cabbage, Radish, Turnips, Mustard, Spinach, you have, putting the meat' into the
Watercress. Parsley and Green Onions. pot when the lard is very hot. When
1 Large Red or White Onion. it begins to brown, add a chopped
% Red Pepper Pod. onion and the sausage, and then add
1 Bay Leaf. 1 Sprig of Thyme. the chopped cabbage, stirring and
1 Sprlflr of Sweet Marloram. pouring in enough water to prevent
9 Allspice.
it from burning.- Throw in the red
1 Clove.
Cayenne to Taste.
pepper pod and a dash of Cayenne,
Soak and wash the leaves thor-
36

and salt to taste. Add a little black ring in as already given. The gum-
pepper. Stir often and allow the bo must not be allowed to stand on
ingredients to cook well, gradually- the fire after the flour has been
adding, if necessary, a little water, boiled on it for five minutes, at it
and stirring frequently to prevent will burn.
burning. When thoroughly cooked, Should the recipe prove above the
make a cream sauce as follows: purses of the poor, eitner the sau-
Take one pint of new milk and two sage or the round of beef may bo
tablespoonfuls of flour and mix thor- omitted. With the ingredients given
oughly, so as not to be lumpy. Stir in this recipe, it should not cost more
this into the gumbo while boiling, than the following: Head of cab-
and continue stirring for five min- bage, 5 cents; ham, 5 cents; steak
utes. Serve with boiled rice. If it 10 cents; sausage, 10 cents; milk,
is not possible to procure milk, al- 5 cents. It may be varied to suit
most the same effect may be attained the purses of the rich or poor, and is
by mixing the flour in cold water always a nutritious dish and quite
of the same measurement and stir- a dinner in itself.

CHAPTER VIII.

PISH.

Du Poisson.

The Fish Market of New Orleans are unique in the United States.
is famous over the world. No They are
stranger comes to the city without more delicate va-
of a far
riety than the Lake Shrimp and muc.i
visiting this notable spot, and never prized as an article of food. Both
thinks of leaving New Orleans with- Lake and River Shrimp are abun-
out partaking of a "Pish Breakfast," dant in the summer time and are
or "Pish Dinner," at one of the Lake used alike by rich and poor.
resorts.
In the following recipes the njost
The perfection and variety of the delightful methods of preparing thesa
fish found in the New Orleans mar- fish are given, methods which may
ket are unsurpassed. We have here be used by all according to the purse,
all the fish found in the waters of
the conditions of the poorest having
the Gulf of Mexico contiguous to been considered as well as the wants
New Orleans, the Mississippi Sound of the wealthy. All are equally rec-
and our own lake shores. These ommended, being the most perfect
constitute the famous salt-water va-
rieties, such as the Sheepshead, con-
preparations of their kind in use
sidered by many the best fish in the
among t.ie Creole housekeepers. It
Gulf; the famous Pompano and Span-
might be added here, for the benefit
ish Mackerel, the dainty Croaker,
of any Northern housekeepers into
the toothsome Plounder, the Blue- whose hands this book may fall,
that many of the recipes may be
fish, the Silver Trout, Tenderloin
Trout, Speckled Trout, the Grouper, modified according to good judgment
in preparing the fish found exclus-
and the Mullet, the latter, however,
ively in the Northern markets. For
being seldom eaten, owiijg to the
softeness of its flesh, the number o instance, in making the famous
its bones and the continued presence
"Courtbouillon," which is in all res-
of the other and finer fish whic.i pects a distinctive Creole conception,
are to be had tor the fishing. Among any firm fish, such as the Bass, may
shell fish we have the Hard-Shell be used, though, of course, the fiavor
Crab, the Soft-Shell Crab, consid- of the delicious Red Snapper or Red
ered a great luxury in other parts, Fish used by the Creoles to the ex-
but always to be found in the New clusion of all other fish in mak-
Orleans market; the appetizing Lake ing a "Courtbouillon," will be found
Shrimps; that delicious bivalve, the wanting. With modifications that
Oyster; the Crawfish, and the famous will suggest themselves to any intel-
Green Turtle, so highly prized as a ligent housekeeper, they may be used
dainty morsel. Again, in the rivers the world over in preparing fish of
and bayous and small streams of other varieties than those which are
Louisiana we have many delightful the delight and pride of the New Or-
varieties of fresh-water fish, such as leans Pish Market.
fresh-water or Green Trout, the Saca- How to Tell
lait and a coarse fish called
Good Fisll.
the Buf- Unless perfectly fresh, fish is unfit
falo. The River Shrimp of Louisiana for use. Care should be
taken to see
.

37

that the gills are bright and red, the BOTLBD FISH.
scales shining, the eyes clear and the
flesh very firm and free from any un- Poisson Bouilli.
pleasant odor. In the New Orleans General Rule for Balling Flsh.
Fish Market the vendors generally --lean and wash the flsh thoroughly.
clean and scale the fish, it requested
to do so; but this cleaning and scal-
Make a small letter "S" with knife
on the back; pass twine around the
ing is not to be entirely depended body of the flsh so as to secure U.
upon, because it is rarely thorough,
Never wrap or tie in a cloth. Have
only the heavier scales and entrails ready a kettle of boiling water and
being removed. On coming home throw in a sprig of onion, thyme
from the market, the fish should be and bay leaf, eight or ten cloves,
immediately rescaled and thoroughly about two dozen allspice, all mashed
cleansed and washed without soak- fine; a bit of lemon peel and a red
ing, in water; it is far better to let
pepper pod. When the water has
the water run over the fish, for thus
boiled long enough to have extracted
the smallest particle of blood is re-
the flavor of these ingredients, drop
moved. This is very important in the fish in carefully, so as to avoid
order to have a good, wholesome, sav-
ory dish. Then sprinkle the fish on breaking. Let it boil about ten
minutes and then take out care-
the inside with salt, and set in the
ice box.
fully. Put into a strainer and drain
If this is wanting, put It
quickly. Place on a bed of parsley
in a very cool place, but it is always
with garnishes of lemon and serve
best for it to remain on ice until either a Mayonnaise or Genoise
ready to use, especially during the
Sauce or Sauce Hollandaise. (See
summer. The small vendors in the recipes.)
'

_
New Orleans private markets fre- The Creoles add a clove of garlic
quently oblige their poor customers to the boiling water, but this is ac-
by placing the fish in their ice boxes cording to taste.
until the time for preparation, when
it is sent for and is found cold and BROILFD FISH.
firm and ready for cooking. Poisson Grills.
Methods of Cooking Fish, General Rules for Broiling Flsh.
Fish may be boiled, broiled, stewed, Always use the double broiler,
fried or baked. made of wire, as this allows the coDk
Visitors to New Orleans declare to turn the fish from side to side
that nowhere is fish cooked in such without disturbing the body during
palatable ways as in this old Franco- the process of broiling, and possibly
Spanish city. The experience of breaking the flesh. Clean the flsh,
generations of fine old cooks has been without cutting off the head and
brought to bear upon the preparation tail. "When the flsh is large, split
of the fish found in the Louisiana wa- down the back; else broil whole. Al-
ters and those of the Mexican Gulf, ways serve broiled flsh whole. Have
with the result that a Creole code a clear moderate fire. Expose flrst
of rules for the cooking of even the the flesh side to the fire, and then
smallest and less important flsh pre- the skin, as the latter browns it is
vails, and it is considered little liable to burn quickly. Great care
short of barbarous to depart from must, therefore, be taken not to burn
it. the skin side.
The Creole methods of boiling and Before placing on the broiler, rub
baking flsh are the perfection of "cul- the flsh well with salt and pepper,
inary art and unlike any method in mixed in a little sweet oil or a little
vogue elsewhere. butter oil or butter. If the flsh is
Special recipes are, therefore, giv- small, broil on a quick, clear flre; It
en for the boiling and baking of large, as mentioned above, the flre
Sheepshead, Redfish, Red Snapper, as, must be moderate, or the outside of
also, for making the world-famous the fish will be charred before the
Creole "Courtbouillon" and "Bouilla- inside is done. When the fish is done
baise." These ruies should be strict- through and through, -which can
ly observed in cooking these flsh if quickly be determined by the fish
one would bring out the best flavor parting easily from the bone, remove
of each. But there are other flsh, the gridiron from the flre, and loos-
such as Green Trout and Perch, en the flns from the broiler with
which, when simply boiled and served a knife, being careful not to
with appropriate sauces, are known break the flesh. Then place the hot
to reserve their best flavor for this dish over the fish, and, with a dex-
species of cooking. terous movement, turn the two back
The following general rules for again, thus separating the gridiron
boiling, broiling, baking, stewing from the flsh and placing the latter
and frying fish should be carefully in the dish. Butter well, season with
followed wherever indicated in the a little pepper and salt, if deemed
recipes. necessary, and pour over a table-
38

spoonful of chopped parsley and lem- FRIED FISH.


on juice. Serve with garnishes of Poissons Frits.
sliced lemon and parsley, or gar- General Rule for Frying Flata.
nishes of delicate green lettuce
leaves. Certain of the fish of the Mexican
is one of the nicest ways
Broiling Gulf are always best when fried.'
of cooking certain kinds of fish, and Of these are the toothsome Croakers,
cannot be too highly recommended. the delicate Sacalait and Patassas,
BAKISO PISH. and also the Speckled Trout when
served in tenderloin steaks.
Poisson au Gratin. There is an art in knowing how
to fry fish properly. Perhaps there
General Rule for Baking Fisb,
is no other method of cooking fish
Clean the Fish, cutting -off the which is more commonly used, and
fins. Makethe on
letter "S" the no other which is more generally
sides. well inside and out with
Rub abused. There are few people who
pepper and salt. Butter a stewpan really know how to fry fish properly.
and put in one large chopped onion The following general rule will" give
and a wineglassful of white wine. Tlie Secret of Good Frying.
Place the fish in the pan, put in the The secret of good frying lies in
oven and let it bake about twenty having the lard heated Just to -the
minutes, having been careful to place proper point. If the fish is placed in
lumps of butter over it and basting the boiling lard, it is liable to burn
frequently. When done carefully, quickly without being cooked
lift the fish out of the pan and put it through and through. If placed sim-
into the dish in which it is to be ply in the well-heated lard, it ab-
served. Take the gravy in which the sorbs the fat and is delicate and ten-
fish has been cooked and add about der and there is no tax upon the di-
a cup of oyster water, the juice of one gestive organs. Always have suffi-
lemon, two tablespoonfuls of chopped cient lard in the pan to fry all the
mushrooms, one tablespoonful of fish that is on hand and never add
minced parsley, thyme and sweet a lump of cold lard to the heated
marjoram, ten allspice, one clove of substance. This checks the cooking
garlic, a little Cayenne, and salt and of the fish and spoils the taste. It
pepper to taste. Mix all thoroughly the lard spits and crackles, that is
over the stove, adding a little but- no evidence of boiling. It only
ter if the gravy adheres too much means that the lard is throwing off
to the pan. Pour over the fish, and drops of moisture that have crept in.
garnish with whole mushrooms and Boiling lard is perfectly still until
slices of lemon laid alternately upon it begins to smoke, and then it is in
Crofltons or dried toast, out diamond 'danger of burning and must be re-
shape. moved from the fire. To test the
lard, drop in a piece of bread. If it
STEWED FISH. begins to color, the lard Is ready for
Poisson en Matelote. frying. When the fish is fried, skim
it out, draining off all the fat. But-
General Rule for Steering Fish, ter is never used in frying fish, as It
Clean the fish well and slice and burns quickly.
pour over one cup of good, boiling A Short Resume of the Way In Whlcli
vinegar. Make a roux by putting
the Fish of the Nevr Orleans
one tablespoonful of lard into the
stewpan, and when hot add gradually Markets Sliould Always Be
two tablespoonfuls of flour rubbed Cooked.
smoothly. When quite brown, take Sheepshead may be boiled, broiled
the fish, which has been previously or baked, and is good with any
rubbed with salt and pepper, and sauce.
place in the pot. Let it simmer Redflsh is principally used in mak/-
gently a few minutes, and then add ing "Courtbouillon," or it is boiled
a large chopped onion, parsley, one and served with an Hollandaise
clove of garlic, one sprig of thyme, Sauce, or baked.
a bay leaf, two' blades of mace and Red Snapper should always be
eight or ten allspice. Let these boiled or baked. It is delightful
brown and cover with water sufl5- served a. la Chambord, but it is best
cient to prevent burning. Put the a. la Creole.
fish on a slow fire to stew, and when
half done, add a little Cayenne, and,
Grouper is served in the same way
if possible, add a pint or glass of
as Red Snapper.
Flounder should always be baked
Port Wine. When done, place the a. la Nouvelle Orleans, or &. la Nor-
fish in a dish, pour the gravy over
mande, or with a white wine sauce
it, and garnish with CroQtons, with
as in Baked Sheepshead or in the
alternate slices of lemon and pre- famous recipe "Sole a la Orly." (See
pared horseradish. recipe.)
39

Pompano should always be broiled fish, and then lay on a pan and open
and served with Sauce a. la Maitre the fiesh on either side by making
a'Hotel. the letter "S" with the knife. This
Spanish Mackerel should always be is done to prevent the fish from puf-
broiled in the same manner as Pom- fing out Or drawing up, and to insure
pano, and served with Sauce a, la thorough cooking and a perfect shape
Maitre d'Hotel. afterwards. Then tie the flsh well
Bluefish should be cooked and with cord or twine, wrapping it
served in the same manner as Pom- around the body. Never encase a
pano and Spanish Mackerel. boiled flsh in a cloth; put the fish in
Speckled Trout is generally broiled a deep saucepan and add boiling wa-
and served in tenderloin, or a Ten- ter sufficient for the fisli to swim in
derloin Trout, with Sauce a, la Tar- it. Throw in a tablespoonful of
tare. spice (well mashed), a sliced onion,
Green Trout and Perch should be three bay leaves, a sprig of parsley
broiled and served with a Sauce a. (all chopped very fine), a tablespoon-
la Maitre d'Hotel, or else boiled ful of French vinegar, and salt and
and served with a Sauce Genoise, or pepper to taste. Cover well and let
an HoUandaise or Drawn Butter it boil for ten minutes. After ten
Sauce. minutes, the flsh is cooked. Prepare
Croakers are fried and served with a "Cream Sauce" (see reaipe) and '

garnish of parsley or lemon. serve immediately. ^, ^


Patassas, Sacalait and other small
fish are served in the same manner as Sheepshead il la Creole^
Croakers. Casburgot a la Crfiole.
Soft-shell crabs may be fried in the
same manner as Croakers, or broiled A 3- Pound Sheepshcnd.
and served on toast. 2 Onions. 1 Bunch of Parsley.
Shrimp are generally boiled, with 2 Sprigs of Thyme. 4 Bay Leaves. 1 Sprig of
plenty of seasoning. The River Sweet Marjoram.
Shrimp are always served as boiled, 1 Quart of Boiled Cream. Ynllts of 4 Eggs.
shells and all, but the Lake Shrimp 3 Tablespoonfuls of Flour. 2 Tablespoonfuls of
enter into many combinations in Butter.
cooking. Bread Crumbs.
Hard-shelled Crabs may be stuffed, Prepare the Sheepshead as for boil-
stewed, fried and made into gumbo. ing (see recipe Boiled Sheepshead).
All left-over, broiled, baked or "When quite done, take out of the
boiled Jish should be utilized in mak- water and flake off all the flesh from
ing salads, croquettes, etc. the bones. Have ready a quarter of
Oysters are served in almost every boiled cream or milk. Beat the yolks
conceivable way, and enter into the of four eggs and mix with the cream.
most delightful combinations in Chop one large onion, a bunch of
cooking. parsley, a sprig each of thyme and
A fish weighing three pounds, or bay leaf, and add to the cream and
small fish in quantity sufficient to eggs. Let it boil up once, and while
make three pounds (uncooked), will boiling, throw in three tablespoon-
serve six persons. fuls of fiour, rubbed perfectly smooth,
THE SHEEPSHEAD. in a little cream, and about two ta-
Casburgot. blespoonfuls of butter. Remove from
Of the fish found in the waters
all
the flre. Have ready a deep dish,
of the Gulf of Mexico, the Sheeps- well buttered, and put in a layer of
fish and then a layer of the sauce,
head is perhaps the most to be com-
mended for frequent household use, until the dish is full. Sprinkle over
being susceptible of a far greater with bread crumbs. Place in the
variety of modes of preparation than oven and bake about a half hour, or
any other fish; the flesh being of a until brown. This is a very delight-
less richer fiber than the Redfish, ful method of preparing Sheepshead.
Red Snapper, Pompano and Spanish Baked Sheep.shen(1.
Mackerel, it may be used from day
to day without injury to the stom- Casburgot au Gratin.
ach. It is good in almost any form A 3-Pound Sheepshead. 1 Large Onion.
and may be boiled, baked or broiled, 2 Tablespoonfuls of Flour.
and served with almost any sauce. 2 Tablespoonfuls of Butter. 1 Bay Leaf.

Boiled Sliccpsliend. 1 Sprig of Thyme. %Bottle of White Wiae.


6 Fresh Tomatoes. 2 Dozen Lake Shrimp.'
Casburgot Bouilli.
1 Dozen Oysters. % Can of Mushrooms.
A 3-Poun(l Sheepshead. 1 Sliced Onion.
2 Crackers. Dry Toast Cut -in Dice Shape.
3 Bay Learos. 1 Sprig of Thyme. 1 Spilg of
3 Sprii's Chopped Parsley to Garnish.
Parsley.
1 Sprig of Sweet Marjoram. 1 Tablespoonful
French Vinegar. Clean and wash the fish; place on
Salt and Pepper to Taste. a platter; chop one large onion fine,
A Cream Saure. rub the fish first with salt and black
Wash and thoroughly clean the pepper, and then take a large and
40

deepkitchen pan, place within a frying the dressing a few minutes


tablespoonful of butter, the chopped take off the stove and stuff the
onion, bay leaf and thyme. Place body of the flsh and sew up with
the flsh on top of this and pour over soft thread or soft yarn. Score or slit
a half bottle of white wine. Cover the flsh on either side, making the
with another close pan and put the scores about an inch apart and lard
whole on top of the oven (not on the it either by putting a strip of salt
inside). Bake from the bottom. fat in each gash or filling with larcL
When it begins to boil from below, Grease the bottom of a baking pan
turn the flsh over carefully without put the flsh in it and dredge thickly
breaking-, and let it bake on the other with salt and flour and a little Ca-
side. Take a saucepan and put with- yenne. If possible, pour over a half
,in a tablespoonful of butter and mix bottle of white wine, otherwise sim-
thoroughly with two tablespoonfuls ply cover the bottom of the pan
of flour. Let it brown without with the grease, add a little boiling
burning, and then add six fresh to- water, and put the flsh in a hot oven.
matoes, skinned and chopped fine, Baste every ten minutes or so by tak-
or a half can. Add two dozen Lake ing a spoon and pouring the gravy
Shrimp that have been cleaned well over the fish. Allow about fifteen
and scalded, a half can of mush- minutes of baking to every pound
rooms saU and pepper to taste. Let
,- of flsh, the ordinary sized fish of four
all cook for about five minutes and pounds requiring about one hour.
tlien water with the gravy in which When brown on one side, turn on the
the fish is cooking. Mix well and otlier, and when done carefully, slide
cover the flsh with it. Parboil one the fish into the center of the flat
dozen oysters, and when the fish is dish in which it is to be served, and
cooked, set it in the dish in which it garnish nicely with slices of lemon,
is to be served and place the oysters fried potato balls and chopped pars-
all around it on small slices of dry ley. Make the garnish by placing
toast. Cover the flsh alternately sprigs of parsley between the fried
with the shrimp and oysters, as a potato balls and laying on the slices
garnish over and around it. Mash of lemon. Serve with HoUandaise
two crackers into crumbs and Sauce or Bechamel Sauce. (See
sprinkle over, and place alternately ceipts.)
small bits of butter on top of the Again, where the the fish is not
flsh. Place the dish In the oven baked in wine and served with se-
and bake the flsh with a quick flre parate sauce a good sauce from its
until brown, and serve immediately. own juices may be made. Simply
This preparation is an exclusive grease and cover the bottom of the
conception of our Creole cuisini&res pan with boiling water and place in
and cannot be too highly recom- the fish. As it begins to bake well
mended. take a half dozen good, fresh toma-
toes, or a half can of tomatoes, one
Baked Sheepsbead & la Creole. onion, one bay leaf, a sprig of thyme
Casburgot a, la Creole au Gratin. and a blade of mace, chop all fine,
and mix thoroughly and pour over
A
3-Pound Sbeepsbead. the baking flsh. Add a little butter,
1 Cup of Stale Bread Crumbs.
Onion. 1 Tablespoonful of Cbopped Parsley.
salt and pepper, and a very good
1
1 Tablespoonful of Melted Butter.
every-day sauce will be the result
1 Tablespoonful ofLard. 1 Pint of White Wine . Red Snapper may be baked in this
or Boiling Water. same simple style where the purse
Salt and Pepper and Flonr to Dredge, will not permit of the more expensive
A HoUandaise, Bechamel or Tomato Sauce. recipe, given further on.

The following is a more simple Red Snapper and Redfish.


manner, where means are limited, of Red Snapper et Poisson Rouge.
baking Sheepshead for frequent fam- These are distinctive fish, and form
ily use. Clean the flsh thoroughly, unique and most delightful dishes of
. inside and out; wash well and dry
the Creole cuisine.
thoroughly with a clean towel. Rub
it well with salt and pepper, Courtbouillon ft la Cr6ole.
then
make a dressing, taking one cup of Six Fine Slices of Redflsh or Bed Snapper
stale bread crumbs, wet and squeezed (equal to 3 Pounds.)
thoroughly of all water, one table- 1 Tablespoonful of Lard. 2 Tablespoonfnb of
spoonful of melted butter, one table- Flour.
spoonful of chopped parsley a half 12 Well-Mashed Allspice. 3 Sprigs of Thyme.
teaspoonful of salt and a little black 3 Sprigs of Parsley. 3 Sprigs of Sweet
pepper. Mix well and fry in a little Marjoram.
lard. One dozen oysters or shrimp 3 Bay Leaves.
Or the yolks of two hard-boiled eggs 1 Large Onion. 1 clove of Garlic.
added and mixed increase the flavor Large Fresh Tomatoes or a Half Can.
of the dressing, ut the dressing 1 Quart Of Water. 1 Glass of
can Claret. Tie
be made very nicely without. After Juice of 1 Lemon.
Salt and Cayenne to
Taste.
41

Those kings o( the New Orleans very pleasing way of cooking Red-
French Market, the Red Snapper or flsh:
the Redfish, are used in making the Buy in the French Market four or
pride and glory of the New Orleans six slices of Redflsh. Make a Roux
cuisines, a good "Courtbouillon." by putting one tablespoonful ot lard
More generally and with finer results into the stew pan, and when It is hot,
the Redfish or "Poisson Rouge" is stir in gradually two tablespoonfuls
used. This fish may always be known of flour. Add one large chopped
by the single spot on the tail. The onion, six tomatoes (chopped), the
old Creole darkies have a tradition chopped parsley, clove of garlic,
that this was the fish which the sweet basil and thyme, all chopped
Apostles brought to the Savior when very fine. Add two bay leaves whole.
he performed his great miracle of "When it browns nicely without burn-
the loaves and me fishes. They hand ing, pour in about two pints of water
down the quaint legend that the Sa- and let it come to a boil. Rub the
vior took up this fish between his fin- flsh well with salt and pepper, and
gers and blessed it, and it was ever pour over it a cup of boiling vin-
after a marked fish in the waters, egar, if you have no white wine. Put
the imprint of the Lord's fingers hav- the flsh slice by slice into the pot and
ing remained on the spot where, he let it simmer for about a half hour,
held up the fish and blessed it and of- or until the flesh begins to be soft.
fered it to His Father. They hold the Then remove from the fire, take out
Redflsh in reverent veneration, and of the pot, and lay the slices in a
never fail to tell the little children dish. Take the bay leaves out of the
when cooking it: "dose am de marks ^avy, pour the gravy over the flsh,
ob de Lord's hand." and serve with garnishes of sliced
To make a real Courtbouillon slice lemon. -
the Redflsh in fine, clear-cut pieces, Courtbouillon is very palatable
after having thoroughly washed and served in this way. It is a most eco-
cleaned, it. Make a "Roux" by put- nomical Friday or fast-day dish in
ting one tablespoonful of lard in a large families when served with
deep can or kettle. When hot add boiled rice, or potatoes boiled whole.
gradually two tablespoonfuls of Bouillabaise.
flour, stirring constantly to prevent
burning. Throw in about ten or 6 Slices of Red Snapper. 6 Slices of Redflsh.
twelve well-mashed allspice, and % Bottle of White Wine. % Lemon.
three sprigs each of chopped thyme, 6 Large Fresh Tomatoes, or ^
Can.
3 Onions. 1 Herb Bouquet.
parsley, bay leaf and sweet marjo-
3 Cloves of Gallic.
ram, one clove of garlic and one large
3 Bay Leaves. 3 Spi'lgs of Thyme.
onion, chopped very fine. Add six
3 Spiigs of Parsley.
fresh, large tomatoes, chopped fine.
6 Allspices. 2 Tablespoonfuls of Olive Oil.
Or one-half can of tomatoes. Pour 1 Good Strang Piuch of SatEron.
in one glass of good claret, add about Salt, Pepper and Cayenne to Taste.
one quart of water, and let it boil the dish that drew from
well. Then add salt and Cayenne to This is
Thackeray that famous tribute to
taste, and when this has boiled
about five minutes add the fish, Creole cookery: "In New Orleans you
can eat a Bouillabaisse, the like of
putting in slice ay slice. Add the
juice of a lemon, and let all boil which was never eaten in Marseilles
aoout ten minutes. Serve with or Paris."
French fried "potatoes, mashed po- The reason is clear, for in those
tatoes or potato croquettes. old French cities the Bouillabaisse is
A Courtbouillon of Red Snapper Is made from the fish of the waters of
made in the same way. the Mediterranean Sea, notably the
Sturgeon and the Perch combined,
Spanish CourtbonlUon, while in New Orleans it is made from
Courtbouillon a. I'Espagnole. those matchless fish of the Gulf of
Mexico, the Red Snapper and the
6 Slices of Redflsh pr Red Snapper (equal to
3 pounds.)
Redfish (Poisson Rouge). It will be
1 Tablespoonful of Lard. 2 Tablespoonfuls of noticed that it takes two kinds of
Flour. flsh to make a Bouillabaisse. The
1 Large Onion. 6 Tomatoes. 3 Sprigs of first Bouillabaisse was made in Mar-
Parsley. seilles, and the old Creole tradition
1 Clove of Garlic. 3 Sprigs of Tliyme. .
runs that it was the discovery of two
1 Spiig of Sweet Basil. sailor fishermen, who were disput-
2 Bay Leaves. 1 Cup of White Wine. ing as they sat in a schooner as to
2 Pints of Water. the proper way of cooking a Stur-
The delightful adaptability of the geon and Perch combined. Both es-
New Orleans cuisine to the wants of sayed: One succeeded in making a
all the people may be seen in the delightful dish that would have glad-
following Courtbouillon, which is in dened the heart of any old French
general use among the families of "bon vivant." The other failed. The
moderate means, and is, indeed, a successful one enthusiastically of-

42

take the fish out of the pan and set


fered to teach his friend, and as the
latter was following the directions im the slices in a dish. Pour a half
plicitly, and the finishing touches bottle of white wine into the pan and
were being given to the dish, the stir well. Add a half can of toma-
teacher, seeing that the critical and tes, or six large fresh tomatoes sliced
important moment had come when fine, and let them boil well. Then add
the flsh must be taken from the Are, half a lemon, cut in very thin slices,
or it would be spoiled if it cooked a and pour over a pint of the liquor In
moment longer, cried out, bringing which the head of the snapper was
down his hand emphatically: "Bt boiled. Season well to taste with
quand ga commence a bouillir salt, pepper and a dash of Cayenne.
Baisse!" Hence the name "Bouilla- Let it boil until very strong and till
baisse," which was given to the disli reduced almost one half; then lay
from that moment. From all por- the fish slice by slice, apart one from
tions of Europe people go to Mar- the other, in the pan, and let boil
seilles to eat a "Bouillabaisse" on five minutes. In the meantime have
the seashore. prepared one good pinch of saffron,
The taste of the Bouillabaisse still chopped very fine. Set it in a small
lingered in the mouths of the old deep dish and add a little of the
French Creole settlers of New Or- sauce in which the fish is boiling to
leans. The famous old chefs sought dissolve well. When well melted,
two fish from the water of the Mex- and when the fish has been just five
ican Gulf that might be used in tlie minutes in the pan, spread the saf-
making of the dish with a reason- fron over the top of the fish. Take
able hope of success. They chose tlie out of the pan, lay each slice on
Red Snapper and the Redfish. The toast, which has been fried in butter;
result is told in Thackeray's tribute. pour the sauce over and serve hot
The Creole Bouillabaisse, with the immediately. You will have' a dish
modifications and improvements that that LucuUus would have envied.
early ingenuity suggested, is a dish
that was the standing offering in an-
tebellum days to every distinguished Boiled Red Fish or Boiled Red
Parisian or foreigner that visited Snapper.
New Orleans. Its reputation is sus-
tained by the Creole cuisiniSres of
our own day. It is made as follows: Poisson Rouge ou Red Snapper
First cut off the head of the Red Bouilli.
Snapper and boil it in about one and
a half quarts of water, so as to make
a fish stock. Put one sliced onion A 3-Pound Redfish or Red Snapper.
and a herb bouquet consisting of 1 Sliced Onion.
thyme, bay leaf and parsley, into the 3 Bay Leaves. 1 Sprig of Thyme.
water. When reduced to one pint, 3 Sprigs of Parsley.
take out the head of the fish and the 1 Sprig of Sweet Marjoram. 1 Tablespoonful
herb bouquet and strain the water of French Vinegar.
and set it aside for use later on. Salt and Pepper to Taste.
An Hollandaise Sauce.
Take six slices of Redfish and six
slices of Red Snapper of equal sizes
and rub well with salt and pepper. Wash and thoroughly clean the
Mince three sprigs 'Of thyme, three fish, and then lay on a pan and open
sprigs of parsley, three bay leaves the flesh on either side by making the
and three cloves of garlic, very, very letter "S" with the knife. This is
fine, and take six "allspice and grind done to prevent the flsh from puffing
theni very fine, and mix thorouglily out or -drawing up, and to insure
Witli the minced herbs and garlic. thorough cooking and a perfect
Tlien take eabh ?lice of fiSh and rub shape afterwards. Then tie the fish
Well with this mixturfe till every por- well with cord or tWine, wrapping
tion is permeated by fhe herbs, spice it around the body. Never encase a
and garlic They must be, as it were, boiled fish in a cloth; put the flsh in
soaked into "fhe flesh, if you would a deep saucfepan and add boiling wa-
achieve the success of this dish. ter sufficient for the flsh to swim in
Take two tablespoonfuls of fine olive it. Throw in a tablespoonful of
oil and put into a very large pan, sp-ice (well mashed), a sUced onion,
so large that each slice of the fish three bay leaves, a sprig of thyme
may be put in without one piece and sweet marjoram, a sprig o
overlapping the other. Chop two on- parsley (all chopped very fine), a
ions very fine and add them to the tablespoonful of French vinegar,
heating' oil. Lay 'the fish slice by and salt and pepper to taste. Cover
slice in the pan and cover, and let well and let it boil for ten minutes.
them "6touK6," or smother for about After ten minutes, the flsh is cooked.
ten minutes, turning once over so Prepare a "Cream Sauce" (.=ee re-
that each side may cook partly. Then cipe) and serve immediately.
43

Baked Rea Snapper. by taking one cup of stale bread,


wet and squeezed of all water; one
Red Snapper la Crgole. a. large onion and three sprigs of par-
A Fine Red Snapper, 3 Founds in Welglit. sley. Chop the onions and parsley
2 Dozen Oysters. 2 Dozen Boiled Sbrinip. fine and mix with the bread crumbs
1 Dozen Boiled Crawflsli, and fry in a spoonful of butter,
2 Large Onions. 2 Tablespoonfuls of Butter. seasoning well with salt and pep-
1 Gup of Stale Bread Crumbs. per. Stuff the fish and sew up with
3 Large Tomatoes, y^ Can of llusbrooms. a soft thread. Then rub the fish
3 Sprigs Each of Thyme and Parsley. thoroughly with salt and pepper and
2 Bay Leaves. 6 Allspice. 3 Cloves. 1 Bottle of butter. Put small pieces of butter
White Wine. all over the fish and add a few pieces
and Pepper.Salt on the bottom of the baking pan.
Clean and wash the Red Snapper Pour in water to the depth of two
thoroughly. Make a cut in the shape inches, cover the pan and bake on
of the letter "S" on the back and the outside of the oven, about an
stuff this with spice, thyme, clove and hour and a half. When the fish is
bay leaf, chopped fine. Rub tlior- baked in the oven it partakes more
oughly inside and out with salt and of the character of roasted fish.
pepper. Make a good stuffing by
taking one dozen oysters, one cup Red Snapper & la Chambord.
of stale bread crumbs, wet and Red Snapper a, la Chambord.
squeezed of all water, one large on- A Fine Red Snapper, 3 Pounds in Weight.
ion chopped fine, a half teaspoonful 2 Dozen Oysters. %
Can Mushrooms.
of salt and a little black pepper. 3 Large Tomatoes. 2 Large Onions.
Mix well and fry in a pan witli a 1 Cup of Stale Bread.
tablespoonful of butter. Stuff the 3 Sprigs Each of Thyme and Parsley.
body of the fish and sew up witli 2 Bay Leaves. 6 Allspice. 3 Cloves.
soft thread. Lard well, that is, rub 1 Bottle of White Wine.
thoroughly with lard and place in Salt and Pepper.
the oven. Pour over immediately a Clean and wash the Red Snapper
bottle of white wine, and let the carefully. Cut a space six Inches
fish bake well in the wine. In the square on the surface of the upper
meantime, prepare the following side of the fish, and carefully remove
sauce: Take one large tablespoonful the skin within the enclosed space.
of butter, one large chopped onion, Then lard this space closely with
one sprig of thyme, one of bay leaf. very fine larding needles, and fill in
Brown the onions and butter, being with spice, thyme, clove and bay
careful not to burn, and put in three leaf, all minced very fine. Rub thor-
tomatoes; add the chopped herbs; oughly inside and outside with salt.
brown and add a pint of oyster water Make a good stuffing by taking one
which has been heated by blanching dozen oysters, one cup of stale bread
the oysters. (Blanching means to crumbs, wet and squeezed of all wa-
place the oysters on the'-fire in their ter; one large onion, chopped fine;
own wat^r and heat thoroughly with- a half tablespoonful of salt and black
out boiling.) Season the sauce with pepper to taste. Mix well and fry
pepper and salt to taste. Have in a pan with a tablespoonful of
ready another dish one dozen
iii, butter. Stuff the body of the fish
parboiled or blanched oysters and two and sew up with soft thread. Lard
dozen boiled shrimp. Put the fisli well- and, after rubbing thoroughly
in the dish in which it is to be served with the lard, place in the oven.
garnish with the oysters and shrimp, Pour over immediately a bottle of
placing them 6-^k.X' the fish,' and white wine and let the fish bake well
mingle about a half can of mush- in the wine. In the meantime pre-
rooms.' Haye also' ready a dozen pare the following sauce: Take one
nicely- boiled crawfish. Garnish the
'

large tablespoonful ,of butter, one


fish with these, placing them all i
large chopped onion, one sprig of
around, it in the dish'' in which it is thyme, one of bay leaf. :^rb-wn the
to be served. Pour the sa,uce over I

;
onions and butter, being careful not
all and set', in the oven and' bake a to burn, and put in three large to-
few mihiitfe's 'longer and serve hot.- '
matoes. Add the chopped herbs,
brown and add the pint of oyster
A Simple Every-Day Recipe For
,

-water, which has been heated witli


Balcing Red Snapper.
i

blanching the oysters. (Blanching


'
Red Snapper au Gratin. means to pla'oe the oysters on the
Fine S-tound Red Snapper.
1 fire in their own water and heat
2 Tablespoonfuls of Butter. thoroughly without boiling.) Sea-
1 targe Onion. ' 3 Sprigs of ParslSy. son the sauce with pepper and salt
"' 1 Bay Leaf. to taste. Put the fish in the dish in
1 COp of Stale Bread Cniml)s. which it is to be served, and 'gar-
%
Tea Clip of Water. Salt and. Pepper. nish with the oysters, placing them
Select a fine, Idige^flsh, clean and over, the fish and mingling between
wash thoroughly. Make a dressing about a half can of mushrooms. Af-
44

ter garnishing the fish nicely, pour Red Snapper. When purchased in
the sauce over all and set in the slices, clean the outer edges well of
oven a few minutes longer and serve the fins, wash and then rub the fish
hot. well with salt and pepper. Prepare
Hed Snapper With Tomato Sauce. some chopped onion and parsley and
lay in a deep baking pan. Place a
Red Snapper Si la Sauce Tomate. layer of fish over this and then a
A Fine Red Snapper, 3 Pounds in Weight. layer of small lumps of butter and
12 Large Tomatoes or a Can. chopped parsley and onion. Place
%Can of Muslirooms. over this another layer of fish. Cover
2 Large Onions. with another layer of chopped pars-
3 Sprigs Each of T^yme and Parsley. ley, onions and butter, and place in
2 Bay Leaves. 6 Allspice. 3 Cloves. the oven to bake. Bake about an
M Inch of Garlic, or 1 Clove.
hour, basting frequently, and serve
1 Cup of Stale Bread Crumbs.
1 Bottle of White Wine.
with a Hollandaise Sauce. (See re-
1 Large Tablespoonful of Butter, or Olive OH
cipe.)
1 Tablespoonful of Flour.
Salt and Red _Pepper. Baked Grouper.
Prepare the fish, following the di-
rections given in the recipe for Hed Grouper au Gratin.
Snapper a la Crgole to the point of A Fine Grouper (weight 3 pounds.)
larding thoroughly. After larding 2 Dozen Oysters. 2 Dozen Boiled Shrimp.
pour over immediately the bottle of 1 Dozen Boiled Crawfish.
white wine, and let the fish bake well 2 Large Onions. 2 Tablespoontuls of Butter.
in the wine. If wine is not avail- 1 Cup of Stale Bread.
able, use a cup of warm water In- 2 Large Tomatoes. % Can
of Mushrooms.
stead; but the wine enhances "the 3 Sprigs Each of Thyme and Parsley.
taste of the dish. When the fish is 2 Bay Leaves. 6 Allspice. 3 Cloves.
done, put one tablespoonful of olive 1 Bottle of White Wine.

oil or one large tablespoonful of Salt and Pepper to Taste.


but-
ter into a saucepan, and one large Clean and wash the Grouper thor-
chopped onion and let brown; add oughly. Make a cut in the shape of
one tablespoonful of flour, and let the letter "S" on the back and stuff
the same brown. Then take the this with spice, thyme, clove and
sliced and chopped fresh tomatoes, bay leaf, chopped fine. Rub thor-
or strain a can of tomatoes in lieu oughly inside and out with salt and
of the former, and add to the sauce. pepper. Make a good stuffing by
Add immediately a small glass of the taking one dozen' oysters, one cup
best white wine, and a halt can of of stale bread crumbs, wet and
mushrooms chopped fine, place in squeezed -jDf all water, one large on-
the sauce the bouquet of sweet herbs, ion, chopped-fine, a halt teaspoonful
thyme, bay leaf, and add an inch of of salt and a little black pepper. Mix
garlic, minced very fine. Season with well and fry in a pan with a table-
red pepper only. Pour this sauce spoonful of butter. Stuff the body
over the baked fish after placing it of the fish and sew up with soft
in the dish in which it is to be thread. Lard well, that is, rub thor-
served; set in the oven a few minutes oughly with lard and place in the
and bring to the table hot. oven. Pour over immediately a bot-
Redflsh, Sheepshead and tle of white wine, and let the fish
may also be cooked accordingGrouper
to this bake well in the wine. In the mean-
recipe. time, prepare the following sauce,
A Simple Way of Baking Rcdflsli. a, la Chambord: Take one large ta-
Poisson Rouge au Gratln. blespoonful of butter, one large
Slices
chopped onion, one sprig of thyme,
6 of RedBsh or a Fish Weighing
one of bay leaf. Brown the onions
Pounds. and butter, being careful not to burn,
2 Large Onions. 3 Sprigs of Parsley.
2 Tablespoontuls of Butter
and put in three large tomatoes;
S Sprigs of Thyme i Bay Leaf.
add the chopped herbs; brown and
Salt and Pepper to Taste. add a pint of oyster water, which
A HoUandalse Sauce. has been heated by blanching the
In families of very oysters. (Blanching means to place
moderate means the oysters on the fire in their own
economical to purchase
thP Redfish
the -RiSflc^ or Red Snapper by the water and heat thoroughly with-
s hce than to buy a whole fish ThI out boiling.) Season the sauce with
according to salt and pepper to taste. Have ready
liTLZ'^''^, '^ medium-Sizedthe size of in another dish one dozen parboiled
o^/
four or five larje slices,
slices, or or blanched oysters and two dozen
a family of six. Where will serve boiled shrimps. Put the fish In the
the Redflsh dish in -which it Is to be served,
IS purchased whole it
may be ore
pared for everyday dinner, garnish with the oysters and shrimps
to the recipe given
according placing them over the
above for bakinl gle
fish, and mine- ,

,
between about a half can of
15

mushrooms. Have also ready a doz- ing on a heated brown paper. Gar-
en nicely boiled crawfish. Garnish nish a dish with a bed of fried pars-
the flsh with these, placing them all ley, lay the Flounders upon it and
around it in the dish in which it is garnish with sliced lemon. Serve
to be served. Pour the sauce over with Sauce a la Tartare. (See re-
all and set in the oven and bake a cipe.)
few minutes longer and serve hot.
Where economy is desired Grouper Flounder & la Nouvellc Orleans.
may be boiled or baked according
to the more simple methods given Sole a la Nouvelle Orleans.
above for cooking Red Snapper. Sse A 3-round Flounder.
recipes "Boiled Red Snapper" and 2 Tablespoontnls of Flour.
"Red Snapper au Gratin." Tablespoonful of Butter.
1 6 Allspice.
1 Sprig of Thyme.

FLOUNDER. 2 Sprigs of Parsley. 1 Sprig of Sweet Basil.


1 Can of Mushrooms. Croutons.
Sole. Salt and Pepper to Taste.
The Creoles gave to the Flounder, Select a fine, fresh Flounder, par-
one of the finest flsh found in the boil, by scalding well after it has
waters of the Mexican Gulf, the been cleansed. Slit open in scores
French name "Sole," because while on top and put in butter and salt,
the flsh was somewhat different in and set to bake in an oven. Wlien
size and shape, they found that the it is two-thirds cooked, take oft
meat of the Flounder was identi- and pour over a cream sauce made
cally the same as that of the "Sole" of two tablespoonfuls of flour, one
found in the waters of the Mediter- tablespoonful of butter, spice,
ranean Sea. Quick to discover and thyme, parsley, sweet basil and bay
appreciate, they applied to the leaf, a can of mushrooms, all chopped
Flounder the name "Sole," and adap- fine, and cook about five minues. Af-
ted it to the French modes of cook- ter pouring this over the flsh, put
ing the latter flsh, especially apply- back in the oven and let it bake till
ing to it the famous old French re- done, which will be in about flftoen
cipe "Sole a la Orly." Otherwise in minutes. Prepare Croutons, or
New Orleans the Flounder is always crusts of bread cut in diamond
either tried and served with a sauce shape, fry these in butter and use
"a la Tartare." or baked "a, la' Nou- as a garnish for the fish.
velle Orleans," or "a la Normande."
or served with -a white wine sauce Flounder II la Normande.
as in Baked Sheepshead. (See recipe Sole a la Normande.
"Baked Sheepshead," or "Casburgot A 3-Pound Flounder.
8 Shallots.
au Gratin.") 3 Bay Leaves. 3 Sprigs of Thyme.
Clove of Garlic.
1 -

Flounder & la Orly, 2 Tablespoonfuls of Butter.


Filets de Sole a la Orly, 2 Tablespoonfuls of Flour.
2 Cups of Bouillon or Water.
6 Filets of Flounder. A Cup ,of Milk. The Yolks of 2 Eggs. 1 Can of Mushrooms.
2 Tablespoonfuls of Butter.
Salt and Pepper to Taste.
1 Egg. Bread Crumbs. A Tomato Saure.
Parsley to Garnish.
A Dash of Cayenne. Groutons Cut in Dice
Shape.
Have thefish dealer cut the Floun-
der in fllets and trim, neatly remov- Cut open the Flounder down the
ing all the bones. Beat an egg with back. Dig inside under bone to
milk, and dip in the slices of fish. right and left, without breaking the
Roll in bread crumbs and fry in meat. Chop the bay leaves, thyme
butter. Serve with parsley garnish, and clove of garlic very, very fine
with a. Tomato Sauce. (See recipe.) and mix with a half teaspoonful of
salt and a half teaspoonful of black
Flounders & la Tartnre. pepper and a dash of Cayenne. Huh
the Flounder all over on the inside
Soles Frites a la Tartare. and under the cutting and outside
3 Pounds of Flounders. 3 Eggs. with this preparation, seasoning
10 Tablespoonfuls of Olive Oil. thoroughly. Chop the shallots, green
A Bunch of Parsley. 1 Sliced Lemon. and white, very fine. Put a table-
A Sauce a la Tartare. spoonful of butter in a fiat saucepan
Clean and trim the Flounders. or stewing dish, and put the shallots
Beat well ITwo or three raw eggs. with the butter. Day the Flounder
Have ready a fryingpan, with eight on top of the shallots and butter,
or ten tablespoonfuls of olive oil. and let it cook slowly on a slow fire
Place over the fire. well When for about ten minutes. Then turn
heated, dip the fish the eggs, into on the other side and cook ten min-
roll well and place in the frying pan. utes longer. In the meantime take
Cook for about five minutes, turn on another saucepan and put into It one
the other side, and cook about the tablespoonful of butter and two of
same period. Then drain by plac- flour. Dissolve this immediately
46

with two cups of bouillon or water with a quick fire until brown. Serve
so tliait-the sauce will be white. Let immediately.
it cook about five minutes, and then
add the well -beaten yolks of the POMPANO.
eggs, and one. can of niushrooms. Pompano the crowning glory of
is
Let all cook ten minutes longer, and tlie the New Orleans market.
fish of
then take the Flounder out of the It peculiar to the waters of the
is
saucepan in which it has been cook- Gulf of Mexico, Mississippi Sound ana
ing and lay on a flat silver dish; the Louisiana Grand Isle shore. The
then mix the sauce in which it has word Pompano is derived from the
been cooking with the mushroom Spanish "Pampano," signifying a
sauce. Taste the sauce and add salt peculiar greenish-tinted plant, and
pepper and Cayenne, according to the name "Pompano" was given to
taste. Pour this sauce over the flsh, the flsh by the early Spanish flsher-
around which you will have placed men on account of the delicate
Croutons cut as dice and fried in greenish color which- distinguishes
the dish, and then cover the fish and it. Nothing to be compared with the
put it in the bake oven for fifteen Pompano exists in the Northern,
minutes. Serve hot in the dish in Eastern or Western waters, and no
which it was baked. stranger leaves New Orleans without
Baked Flounder, having tasted once of this delightful
Sole au Gratin.
flsh. The New Orleans Pompano has
a world-wide fame. The Pompano
A Flounder.
3-Pouiiia 1 Large Onion. used to come in the early spring and
2 Tablespoonfuls of Butter. remain but a few weeks, hence the
2 TablespoonJrls of Flour. flrst flsh that appeared in the French
1 Bay Leaf. i Sprig of Thyme. Market were eagerly sought after
3 Sprigs jf Parsley.
as a great luxury. Pompano are
Bottle of Wblte .Vine. 6 Fresh Tomatoes.
1/,
more plentiful now and are to be
2 Doz'jn Lalie Shrimp.
found in the market almost all the
1 Dozen Oyst'jrs. ^ Can of Mushrooms.
year round.
Clean and wash the fish; place on a
platter; chop one large onion fine,
Pompano & In Mnltre d'Hotel.
2 Crackers. Ta-j Toast Cut in Dice Shape, A Fine Pompano, or Small Ones in Weiglit
rub the fish first with salt and blacK to Equal Three Pounds.
pepper, then take a large and deep A Tablespoonful of Olive Oil.
kitchen pan, pJace within a table- A Tablespoonful of Butter.
spoonful of butter, the chopped on- The Juice of 1 Lemon.
ion, bay leaf and thyme. Place the A Sliced Lemon. Parsley to Gamisb.
Sauce a la Maitre d'Hotel.
fish on top of this and pour over a _,

half bottle of white wine. Cover There only one way to cook
is
with another close pan and put the Pompano and that is to broil it and
whole on top of the oven (not on serve with a. Sauce k la Maitre
the inside). Bake from the bottom. d'Hotel.
When it begins to boil from below, To broil the Pompano split the flsh
turn the fish over carefully without in the middle of the back if the fish
breaking, and let it bake on the other is large; if small, broil whole. Sea-
side. Take a saucepan and put with- son well by rubbing with salt and
in a tablespoonful of butter and mix pepper, mixed with a little sweet oil.
thoroughly with two tablespoonfuls Put the Pompano on the broiler and
of floi'r. Let it brown without burn- see that it is browned well on both
ing, and then add six fresh toma- sides, using always the double wire
toes, skinned and chopped fine'; or a broiler. When done, place in a
half can. Add two dozen Lake heated dish (heat by placing in a
Shrimp that have been cleaned well bain-marie or hot water bath and
and scalded, a half can of mush- dry thoroughly). Butter the fish
rooms, salt and pepper to taste. Let nicely and squeeze the juice of a lem-
d,ll cool: for about five minutes and on over it. Garnish with parsley and
then water with the gravy in which sliced lemon, and serve with a Sauce
the flsh is cooking. Mix well and ft la Maitre d'Hotel. (See recipe.)
cover the flsh with it. Parboil one You will have a dish that a king
dozen oysters, and when the fisji is might envy.
cooked, set it in the dish in which it
is to be served and place the oysters SPANISH MACKEREL.
all around it on small slices of dry Maquereau Espagnol.
toast. Cover the flsh alternately Spanish Mackerel is another deli-
with the shrimp and oysters, as a cate and delicious flsh, only to be
garnish over and around it. Mash found in the waters of the Gulf of
two crackers into crumbs and Mexico. The Gulf of Mexico was, i"
sprinkle over it; also some finely-
early Creole days, a part of the vast
chopped parsley. Place small bits expanse known as "The Waters of
of butter alternately over the fish;
the Spanish Main." The early Span-
set the dish in the -oven, and bake
ish flshermen found here a flsh resem-'
47

bling the mackerel, but of a dainty fried and makes a most palatable
delicacy of .flavor far superior to any dish. We have the Suit-Water Trout
mackerel yet known to epicures, and and the Fresh-Water Trout, and both
tliey gave to it tlie name "Spanish are excellent.
Mackerel." It stands on an equal
footing with the Pompano in the es- Boiled Grecu Trout.
timation of epicures. The Spanish Truite Verte Bouiliie.
Mackerel should always be broiled. 6 Medium- Sized Trout, or 3 Large Ones.
It is a splendid breakfast dish and a A Keule of Boiling Water. 1 Bay Leaf.
famous entrSe at dinners. 1 Sprig of thj-me. 1 Sprig of Oiilun.

Broiled Spanisli Mackerel,


A Clove of Garlic (if desired.) 10 Cloves.
2 Dozen Allspice.
Maquereau Bspagnol GrillS. A Seedless Red Pepper Pod.
A Spanisli Mackerel, or 3 Pounds Weight. A Bit of Lemon Peel.
1 Tablespoonful of Olive Oil. Parsley aud Lemou to Garnish.
1 Tablespoonful of Butter.
Select fine fresh Trout. C.ean and
The Jnice ot 1 Lemon. 1 Sliced Lemon.
wash the
Parsley to Garnish.
fish thoroughly. Make a
small letter "S" with knife on the
Sauce a la Maitre d'Hotel.
back; pass twine around the body of
Prepare in the same manner as the fish so as to secure it. Never
the Pompano, serving whole. "Where wrap or tie in a cloth. Have ready
the fish is large, split downwards, in a kettle of boiling water and thVow
the middle of the back, and broil in in a sprig of onion, thyme and bay
the same manner as the Poxnpano leaf, eight or ten cloves, about two
and place on a dish garnished with dozen allspice, all mashed fine; a bit
pars'ley and -slices of lemon. Serve of lemon peel and a red pepper pod.
witli a Sauce a, la Maitre d'Hotel. When the water has boiled long
(See recipe.) These are special re- enougli to iiave extracted the fiavor
cipes, used only in broiling Pompano of these ingredients, drop tlie fish in
and Spanish Mackerel. carefully, so as to avoid breaking,
tet it boil about ten minutes and
BLUE PISH. then take out carefully. Put into a
L,e Poisson Bleu. strainer and drain quickly. Place
A Fine Bluefish,or Fish in Quantity to
on a platter on a bed of parsley,
Equal 3 Pounds. with chopped parsley thrown over,
1 Tahlespoonful ot Olive Oil. and garnish with parsley and sliced
1 Tablespoonful of Butter. lemon. Serve with a drawn butter
1 Sliced Lomon. The Juice of 1 Lemon. Hollandaise Sauce, or Sauce Geno-
Parsley to Garulsh. ise. (See recipe.) If the flavor of
'

Sauce a la Maitre d'Hotel. the spices is not desired the fish


The Bluefish a splendid fish of
is
may be boiled simply in the salt and
the salt-watervariety and much pepper water, with sprigs of pars-
ley.
sought after. It should' always be
broiled. Split the fish in the middle The Creoles add a clove of garlic
of the back if the fish is large; if to the boiling water, but this is ac-
small, broil whole. Season well by cording to taste.
rubbing with salt and pepper, mixed Broiled Green Trout,
v/ith a little sweet oil. Put the
Pompano on the broiler and see that Truite Verte GrillSe.
it is browned well on both sides, 6 Medium-Sized Trout, or 3 Large Ones.
using always the double wire broil- 2 Tablespoonfuls of Butter. Juice of 1 Lemon.
er. Wlien done, place in a heated 1 Sliced Lemou and Parsley to Garnish.
dish (heat by placing in a bain- Follow implicitly the directions
marie or hot-water bath and dry given under the heading "General
thoroughly). Butter the fish nicely Rule for Broiling Fish." (See re-
and squeeze the juice of a lemon cipe.) Clean the fish witlaout cut-
over it. Garnish with parsley and ting off the head or tail. Broil
sliced lemon, and serve with a Sauce whole over a clear, moderate fire.
a, la Maitre d'Hotel. (See recipe.) Before placing on the broiler rub
the fish well with salt and pepper,
TROUT. mixed in a little sweet oil or a little
De la Truite. butter oil. If the fish is small, broil
Of fine and delicate flavor, the on a quick, clear fire; if large, as
Green Trout and Speckled Trout are mentioned above, the fire must be
,
great favorites in the New Orleans moderate, or the outside of the fish
cuisines. Trout is especially recOTi- will be cliarred before the inside is
mended as a breakfast dish, nothing done. When the fish is done through
being more appetizing than this for and through, which can easily be de-
a morning portion. It may be termined by the fiesh parting easily
broiled or boiled. Tenderloin Trout from the bone, remove the gridiron
cut into filets, or cutlets. Is also from the fire and loosen the fish from
48

the broiler with a knife, being care- Cutlets of FlBll.


ful not to break the flesh. Then Filets de Poisson.
place the hot dish over the fish, and, 6 Tenderloin Trout Cutlets. 1 Cup of Milk.
with a dexterous movement, turn Salt and Pepper to Taste.
the two back again, thus separating Parsley and Sliced Lemon to Garnish.
the gridiron from the fish and plac- A Mayonnaise Sauce, or Sauce a la Tartare.
ing the latter in the dish. Butter
season with pepper Cut fish (Tenderloin Trout)
the
well, a little
and salt, if deemed necessary, and into or square pieces; remove
filets
pour over a tablespoonfill of chopped' all the bones, dip in milk which has
parsley and lemon juice. Serve with been freely salted and peppered, and
garnishes of parsley and sliced roll in flour; drop into the well-
lemon. heated lard so that the filets will
swim and fry to a golden brown.
Speckled Trout. When done, drain on a brown pa-
per and serve on a bed of fried
Truites GrillSes. parsley, with garnishes of parsley
and sliced lemon. With these cut-
Filets of Speckled Trout. lets serve either a Mayonnaise Sauce,
2 TaTjlespoontuls of Butter. a Sauce a la Tartare or a Tomato
Parsley and Sliced Lemon to Garnish. Sauce, preferably either of the
former. (See recipes for sauces.)
The Speckled Trout
is usually
served in tenderloin steaks or filets. PERCH.
Skin and cut the fish, after cleaning, De la Perohe.
into filets or square pieces, slicing
across the back. Remove all the The Perch is a fresh-water fish of
bones and rub well with pepper and delightful flavor. It should always
salt, and a little sweet oil mixed with be boiled or broiled.
the pepper and salt. .Place on the
gridiron or double broiler and broil Boiled Perch.
carefully, turning the broiler fre- Perche Bouille.
quently to prevent the fish being
charred before it is done. When 6 Pine Fresh Percli, 1 Bay Leaf.
Sprig of Thyme.
1 1 Sprig of Onion.
nicely browned, place on a bed of
Clove of Garlic (if desired). lO.CloTes.
1
parsley and garnish with sliced lem-
on. Serve with Sauce 3. la Tartare.
2 Dozen Allspice. A Bit of Lemon Peel.
1 Red Pepper Pod, Without the Setid.
(See recipe.) Parsley and I^emon to Garnish.
Fried Speckled Trout. '
Select fine, fresh Perch. Clean
and wash the fish well. Make a small
Truite Frite. letter "S" with a knife on the back.
Pass a. piece of twine around the
6 Filets of Speckled Trout. body, so as to secure it. Have ready
The Tolks of 2 Eggs. 1 Cup of Milk.
a kettle of boiling water, and throw
1 Onion. 4 Sprigs of Parsley. in a sprig of onion, thyme and bay
2 Gills of Mustard. leaf, the cloves and allspice, mashed
14 Pint of Mayonnaise Dressing.
fine, a bit of lemon peel and the
Parsley and Sliced Lemon to Garnish. red pepper pod. When the water
has boiled long enough to have fully
Select fine Spotted Trout. Skin extracted the flavor of these ingred-
the fish and clean thoroughly. Then ients, drop the fish in carefully, s:)
cut the Trout into filets or steaks. as to avoid breaking. Let it boil tea
Take the yolks of two eggs and a minutes, and then take out carefully
little milk and beat together. Add and drain quickly in a strainer. Place
salt and pepper and soak the Trout in a dish on a bed of parsley, sprinkle
well in this, rolling over and over. chopped parsley over it and garnish
Then take it out of the pan and roll prettily with parsley and sliced lem-
in cracker or bread crumbs. Pat on. The spices may be omitted if
the fish a little all over with your the flavor is not agreeable to some,
hands and then fry in the same man- and the Perch may be simply boiled
ner as Croakers. Serve on a bed of in the salt and pepper water with
fried parsley, with garnish of sliced the sprigs of parsley thrown in.
lemon, with the following Sauce a, la Serve with a Drawn Butter Sauce
Tartare: Take one large onion and or Saiice Genoise. (See recipes.)
four or five sprigs of parsley and
chop fine. Sque;ze the juice out Broiled Perch.
well and parboil, chopping jine and
squeezing out the water. Prepare Perche GrillSe.
about one-half pint of Mayonnaise
Dressing (see recipe) and add about 6 Fine Perch. 2 Tablespoonfuls of Butter.
two gills of mustard. The Juice of 1 Lemon.
Mix well and 1 Sliced Lemon. Parsley .to Garnish.
add to the parsley and onion and
juices. Serve the sauce cold. Proceed in the same manner Indi-
cated under the heading "General
49

Rule Broiling Fish." (See re-


for Fish Chowder.
cipe.) large, split the fish down
If MS16e Creole.
the middle of the back, else broil
whole. Serve with garnishes of 2 Pounds of Fresh Flsli, Preferably Redflsli
or Sheepshead.
parsley and sliced lemon. row of A 3 Medium-Sized Potatoes. 1 Onion.
radishes nicely dressed is often add-
1 ClOTe of Garlic.
ed to the garnish when It is made
3 Sprigs Each of Thym,e, Parsley and Bay
of lettuce leaves, and sliced, hard-
Leaf.
boiled eggs.
V4 Canof Tomatoes. %
Cup of Milk.
1 Quart of Boiling Water.
CROAKERS. 2 Ounces of Salt Pork or Ham
Chopped Very
Flue.
Des Grognards. Grated Oyster Crackers.
Salt, Cayenne and Black Pepper to Taste.
12 Small or Six Large Croakers.
I Pint of Milk. Cut two pounds of fresh fish of
Salt and Pepper to Taste. any kind, preferably the Redflsh or
Parsley and Sliced Lemon to Garnish. Sheepshead. Take three medium-
sized potatoes and one onion and cut
Croakers are a famous breakfast into slices. Take two ounces of salt
fish. They are of smaller size than pork, wash well and chop very fine.
the Trout generally, therefore, no Put the pork into a frying pan, and
definite rule can be given as to the when it is hot add the sliced onion.
number required to serve a family Smother slightly, and add chopped
of six, all depending upon the size thyme, parsley, bay leaf, one clove of
.of the fish. They are most delicious garlic, very fine, and Cayenne and
wRen fried. To fry the Croaker black pepper to taste. Let this sim-
properly a small pan with milk,
fill mer for about ten minutes longer.
and add salt and pepper to taste. Pour over this one quart of boiling
Roll the Croakers in the milk and water, and add fish and half a can of
then take out and roll in dry, sifted tomatoes and the potatoes. Season
flour. Have ready a pan of greise to taste, and cover the pan and let
that has been heated very hot with- the contents simmer for half an
out boiling. Brop in the Croakers hour. A half cup of milk may bei
and cook till brown. The fish must added, if desired. Take oyster
swim the grease. Lift carefully
in crackers, place in a bowl and pour
out of the frying pan and serve on a the chowder over and serve hot.
bed of fried parsley, with garnishes
of sliced lemon. LOUISIANA BEILS. .
'

Many
persons roll the Croakers in De I'Anguille.
cornmeal, but the above recipe Is far
daintier and more palatable. Few of the American residents
of NewOrleans know the possibili-
ties preparing a most delightful
of
SACALiAIT-PATASSAS. dish that lurks in the often-re-
These are delightfully flavored fish jected eel. But the ancient Creoles
inherited the taste of their- French
of the small variety found In the
Louisiana waters. They are excel- ancestors, who considered eels a del-
icacy, and have evolved from the
lent either fried, as in recipe for
traditional recipes of old France
Croakers, or broiled whole.
pleasing and various ways of serv-
FISH BALLS. ing this fish. The most generally
used in households is called
Boulettes de Poisson.
dels en Matelote,
The Remains Any
Fish.
of 1 Large Onion.
Or, More Familiarly, Matelote
1 Sprig of Thyme. 3 Sprigs of Parsley.
d'Anguille.
1 Clove of Garlic.
1 Tablespoonful of Butter. 2 Pounds of Eel, or a 2-Pound Pish.
% Egg. Bread Crumbs. 1 Large Onion.
A Dash of Cayenne. Pint of Button Onions. 1 Clove of Garlle.
1 Tablespoonful of Lard.
Take the remains of any fish, sea- 2 Tablespoonfuls of Flour.
son well with chopped parsley, on- 1 Glass of Good Claret. 1 Can of Mushrooms.
ions, thyme and Cayenne, and a 1 Pint of Oyster Water.
touch of garlic if the flavor is liked. 1 Bay Leaf. 1 Sprig of T?hyme.

Then mince all well, adding a taJDle- Croutons to Garnish.


spoonful of butter and mix with one- Matelote d'Anguille is a famous old
third bread crumbs, mashed well. Creole dish. The following is the old
Beat the yolk and white of an egg Creole recipe, and when once eaten
and roll the balls, shaped in the form after this mode of preparation, there
of a cake, in this. Pat with bread is seldom a refusal to give the eel
crumbs and ifry in butter to a pale its due credit as a dish fit for the
brown. most fastidious gourmet. It should
,

50

and boil about twenty minutes in


always be remembered that the larg-
est eels are not the best for eating. salt and water, putting a great quan-
The Creoles always reject those tak- tity of salt into the kettle, and add-
en from the river, near the wharves. ing the thyme, bay leaf, cloves, all-
The eels found in the bay and lakes spice, chopped onion, garlic and a
are the most r6cherch6. glass of Claret. Remove the eela
Clean and skin the eel, using after cooking twenty minutes and
about two pounds. Cut in one Inch serve on a dish garnished with pars-
or two-inch pieces, as desired. Take ley and fried potato balls. Serve with
one large onion and a half pint of a Sauce a, la Maltre d'Hotel (see re-
button onions, or a clove of garlic, cipe), only be careful to add about a
and chop fine. Make a roux with one half cup of citron or lemon juice to
tablespoonful of lard, adding, when the sauce.
hot, the chopped onions and parsley,
Eels & la Foulette.
and gradually adding, when these
begin to brown, the two tablespoon- Anguilles k la Poulette.
fuls of flour. Pour in one good glass 2 Pounds of Eel. 1 Cup of Hot Vinegar.
of Claret and a can of mushrooms. 1 Tablespoonful of Butter.
Add a pint of oyster stock or oyster 1 Can of Mushrooms.
water, and let cook a while. Season 2 Tablespoonfuls of Flour.
to taste with Cayenne and salt, add- 1 Glass of White Wine.
ing bay leaf and thyme. When it 1 Sprig of Thyme. 1 Sprig of Sffeet Basil,
boils, add the eels that have been 2 Sprigs of Parsley.
thoroughly cleansed and placed in 1 Onion Minced Very Fine.
cold water and allowed to stand The Yolks of 3 Eggs. Juice of 2 Lemons.
about fifteen minutes. When these A Dash of Cayenne. Salt and Pepper to Taste.
are added to the matelote, let it Croutons and Sliced Lemon to Garnish.
simmer about an hour. Serve with Clean and skin the eels and put
fancy garnish of Crotltons. in a pot of boiling water. To be sure
that they disgorge thoroughly add a
Fried Elels, cup of hot vinegar. After boiling
Anguilles Frites. fifteen minutes, take them out and
A
2-Pound Eel. 2 Eggs. cut into three-inch pieces. Take one
Maslied Bread Crumbs. tablespoonful of butter, put into a
Salt and Pepper to Taste. frying pan, and add the eels and one
Clean and skin the eel and place can of mushrooms poured over. Add
In boiling water and vinegar till two tablespoonfuls of flour rubbed
thoroughly disgorged. Cut into smoothly, in butter as the eels be-
lengths of two inches. Wipe dry gin to fry. Pour over, when this
with a clean towel. Beat two eggs begins to brown, a glassful of white
well and add mashed bread crumbs. wine; and add parsley, thyme, bay
Roll the eel well in this preparation leaf, sweet basil, and an onion
and fry in hot lard, following im- minced like the herbs, very flne. As
plicitly the directions given for fry- the grease rises, floating, skim it
ing, and remembering that the flsh off. Add a little Cayenne, and salt
must ajways swim in the grease. to taste, if necessary. When quite
Drain of all grease and serve on a done, take the yolks of three eggs
bed of parsley. and mix thoroughly with the juice
of two lemons. Take the eels off the
Broiled ISela. flre and add the lemon juice and eggs
Anguilles GrillSes. and be careful not to set back on the
fire when once tlifese are added, or
2 Pounds of Eel. 1 Sprig of Thyme.
1 Teaspoonfnl of Black Pepper.
the eggs will curdle. Place on a dish
%
Teaspoonful of Salt. and garnish with CroQtons and slices
A Drawn Butter Sauce, or Sauce a la Tartare. of lemon and serve hot.
Clean and skin the eel as for fry-
ing. Cut in two-inch pieces and STUVGAREE.
boil till disgorged. Then roll in oil De la Raie.
and pepper and salt. Mix well and The Stingaree is a fish that the
broil quickly over a clear flre. Serve Americans laugh at, not dreaming
with melted or Drawn Butter Sauce of the possibilities for a delicate
and pickles, or a Sauce a, la Tartare. dish that lurks within its wings.
Eels a la Mattre d'Hotel. The Creoles, following in the wake of
their French ancestors, who ate the
Anguilles a. la Maltre d'Hotel. Stingaree found in the waters of the
2 Pounds of Eel. 1 Sprig of Tbyme. Mediterranean, have evolved a dif-
1 Bay Leaf. 6 Cloves. i Dozen Allspice. ferent dish from the old French cui-
1Onion Chopped Pine. ] Clove of Garlic. siniSres, but one that holds its own
A Sauce a la Tartare. even among the many distinguished
A Half Cup of Lemon or Citron Juice. French critics and gourmets who
Fi-led Potato Balls.
Cut and clean the eel as directed have visited our shores. It is called
Rale au Beurre Noir.
Stingnree au Benrre Nolr. Stingarettes,
Raie au Beurre Noir, Raitons.

2 rounds of Eel. 1 Cup of Hot Vinegar.


A Fine Young Stingaree. A Caper Sauce.
Salt and Boiling Water.
1 Tablespoontnl ot Butter.
This nam.e is given to the little
-1 -Can of Mushrooms.
Stingarees. They are prepared just
-

Tablespoonfuls of Flour.
2
like the larger ones, the wings only
1 Glass of White Wine.
being used. These are soaked in
1 Sprig of Thyme. 1 Sprig of Sweet Basil.
2 Sprigs of PiirBley.
vinegar and a little salt,- and then
Onion Minced Very Fine. fried, after being rolled in bread
1
The Yolks of 3 Eggs- Juice of 2 Lemons. crumbs and beaten egg. Place on a.
A Dash of Cayenne, Salt and Pepper to Taste. bed of fried parsley and serve.
Croutons and Sliced Lemon to Garnish.
ROB.
Take a young Stingaree and
fine Oeufs de Poisson.
cut oft the tail. Cut the wings from
the body and throw away the rest 1 Dozen Roe. 2 Tahlespoonfuls of Butter.
of the fish. Throw the wings into The Juice of a Lemon.
boiling, water and parboil them Lemon Sliced in Quarters.
When boiled ten minutes, talce them Fish eggs are a great delicacy for
offi the water and then take all the
the reason that it is not often that
skin off. The flesh will then become sufficientcan be bought to supply a
as white as snow. Put one table- dinner or breakfast table. The only-
spoonful of butter in a frying pan eggs of fish that are used as an epi-
and let it brown without burning. curean dish in New Orleans are the
When a nice coffee color, add a hand- Roe of the Green Trout. These are
ful of chopped parsley and let it exceedingly fine and delicate and are
brown for a half minute. Then add prepared after the following man-
the juice of one lemon or a spoonful ner: First wash the eggs well and
of French vinegar. Pour this over cut out fibres; butter a silver dish or,
the flsh, salt and pepper to taste, if you have not one, a nice agate,
and serve hot. This is a dish much and lay the roe in the dish. Split
affected by Creole connoisseurs. them open, if large, and put a dot
of butter on top of each. Sprinkle
Fried Sting^aree. nicely with salt and pepper; place
in the oven, bake a few minutes,
Raie Frite. and serve hot with lemon juice.
A Fine Toung Stingaree. Roe are also used to garnish a
1 TaWespoonful of Butter. dish of flsh whenever the eggs can
A H'andful of Chopped Parsley. be obtained in sufficient quantity.
The Juice of 1 Lemon, or 1 Spoon of French
Vinegar. FROGS.
Salt and Pepper to Taste. Des Grenouilles.
Prepare the Stingaree wings as di- Like their French ancestors, Frog
rected in the above recipe. Cut legs are highly prized as a delicacy
it into square pieces of about three by the ancient Creoles. Properly
inches, and let these soak in the vin- cooked, they are much more deli-
egar which has been charged "with cate than chicken and a great dish
the salt and minced parsley. Then at rficherchS dinners. It must be
roll in egg and bread crumbs and remembered that only the hind legs
fry in boiling lard. Drain and serve of the frogs are used. These are
on a bed of fried parsley, with a usually sold, cleaned and skinned in
Sauce a. la Poivrade. (See recipe.) the French Market. But if caught
by the small boys of the household
Stingaree With Caper Sauce. or the amateur fisherman and
Raie Sauce aux Capres. brought home to be cleaned, the legs
must be first skinned and then
A Fine Young Stingaree. thrown into boiling water for five
A Pint of French Vinegar. minutes. Then take them out and
A Handful of Parsley Minced Very Fine. put in cold water. When cold, take
A Teaspoonful of Salt. Parsley to Garnish. out of the water, and wipe dry,
A Sauce Poivrade. with a clean towel. Th'ey are now
Cut off the tail of the Stingaree. ready for cooking.
Cut off the wings, and throw the Tlie Pieayuire Frog.
rest of the fish away. Throw the
wings into boiling water charged When the Picayune Frog first made
with salt, and parboil them for ,
its advent in New Orleans
as the
fifteen or twenty minutes. Then take !
"Weather Prophet" of this old and
them out ot the water aiid skin faithful journal, the enthusiasm
throughout the city was very great.
I

thoroughly. Place in a heated dish !

and pour over a Caper Sauce. (See "Picayune Teas," "Picayune Souve-
recipe.) -
' '
nir Pins," with the picture of our
52

Frog in all his various garbs as briskly into the eggs. Return to the
"Weather Prophet," became the fash- back of the stove a minute or two,
ion of the hour. No entertainment, being careful not to let the sauce
no reunion, no fair was considered boil after the eggs have been added,
complete without the presence of the else they will curdle the sauce. Serve
Picayune Prog. The Frog soon be- hot, with the compliments of the
came the "Mascot" of every chari- Picayune.
table and philanthropic entertain-
ment, the booth at which he was in- Frogs & la Fonlctte
vited to take up his headquarters Grenouilles &. la Poulette
generally carrying the fair. So
6 Frog Leg!,.
great was the enthusiasm that one
2 Tablespoonfuls uf Butter,
fair lady originated the "Picayune
Frog Lemonade" in his honor, anoth- % Can of Mushrooms. 1 Tablespoon Flour.
1 Lemon. Salt and Pepper to Taste.
er originated the "Picayune Cake,"
and so on. At this juncture a fa- Clean and skin the Frogs' legs and
mous old chef, residing in the French cut them in small pieces of about an
Quarter, unable to control his en- inch in size. Have ready a steiv pot
thusiasm for our distinguished little and put in the Frogs' legs, with salt
weather prophet, who had left the and pepper to taste, and half a lemon
swamps and bayous of this old Cre- cut fine. Cover well with water and
ole State to take up his abode in a let it cook till the meat is tender.
great newspaper office, complimented When cooked, drain and put the meat
him with an original dish, modeled aside and make a sauce as follows:
up'on the old French preparation of Take one tablespoonful of butter, two
a century ago, and named it in his , spoonfuls of flour; rub the flour
honor. smoothly and put in a sauce pan
With the dish the old chef sent with the butter to melt. Add two
the following
recipe. It has been cups of water and stir well. When it
tried and
is acknowledged through- begins to. boil well, add a, half can of
out New Orleans to be the most de- mushrooms. Season with salt and
lightful manner of cooking Frogs: Cayenne. Then add the frogs; sea-
Picayune Frogs 21 la Creole, son again to taste, and let this boil
A Half Dozen Picayune Frogs.. ten minutes. Beat the yolks of two
3 Eggs. A Cup of Sifted Bread Crumbs. raw eggs well, take the frogs off th3
fire and stir in the yolks thoroughly.
1 Tablespoonful of Butter.
1 Tablespoonful of Flour.
Add the juice of one-half lemon and
2 Gills of Milk or Fresb Cream. serve.
% Teaspoonful of Salt.
Frogs Saute fl la Creole.
14 of an Onion Chopped Very Fine.
Salt and Pepper to Taste. Grenouilles Sautfees i, la Creole.
Take a half dozen Picayune Frogs, 6 Frog Legs.
the more delicate the better. Cut 2 Tablespoonfuls of Butter.
off the hind legs and skin. Scald the 3 Large Onions.
legs about four minutes in boiling 6 Fresh Tomatoes or a Half Can.
water, adding salt and lemon juice 1 Sprig of Thyme. 1 Bay' Leaf.

to the water. Then take out and dry 2 Cloves of Garlic.


with a clean towel. Beat the yolks 6 Green Sweet Peppers.
an>l whites of two or three eggs,
Cup of Consomme or Boiling Water.
Salt and Pepper to Taste.
and mix in bread crumbs sifted.
Have ready a pot of heated lard. Wash the Frogs' legs. Put two
Rub the Frog legs well with pepper tablespoonfuls of butter in a sauce-
and salt, and put into the pot of pan and add the legs. Let this
hot lard. Let them fry to a nice brown being careful not to
well,
golden brown. Then make a sauce burn. Afterten minutes of very
as follows: Take one tablespoonful slow cooking on a good fire, take
of flour, one very large tablespoonful three large onions and slice them
of butter, two gills of fresh milk o'- and let them brown with the frogs.
cream, and a half teaspoonful of Then add one-half dozen nice large
salt. Put the butter in a saucepan fresh tomatoes, or a half can; cover
over the Are. As soon as it melts, and let these brown. Cook very
add the flour, which as been rubbed slowly, adding salt and pepper to
smoothly. Stir in gradually, and taste, thyme, bay leaf, two cloves
when blended, add by degrees the of garlic, all chopped very fine In-
boiling milk, stirring constantly to deed. Let the mixture smother
prevent burning. Then take a tea- slowly over the fire, and, if pos-
spoonful of chopped parsley and a sible, add one-half dozen green
half of a chopped onion that has beei sweet peppers sliced very fine, being
well grated. Have ready two fresh careful extract the seeds.
'
to all
eggs, beaten in a bowl. Warm the Stir well and smother twenty
let it
Progs' legs in the sauce, and when
minutes longer, stirring frequently
it begins to simmer stir the
sauce to prevent burning. When well
:.53

smothered, that is, when the Frogs' well in boiling lemon. Juice and salt.
legs are tender, which Is easily as- Dry with a clean towel. Mix thor-
certained by touching with a fork oughly a little black pepper, salt
add one cup of broth, if you have and olive oil, or butter melted, and
it, or consommfi; if not, add one rub the frogs thoroughly, rolling
cup of boiling water, and let it cook them over and over. Take out and
again for half an hour very slowly put on a double wire broiler, being
and well covered. Serve hot. careful to turn frequently to pre-
vent scorching. When done, place
Pried Frogs, in a platter of delicate lettuce leaves
Grenouilles Frites. or parsley and garnish with sliced
6 Frog Legs. lemons and olives.
% of Lemon Juice and a Teaspoon of Salt.
Cup
2 Eggs. 1 Cup of Sifted Bread Crumbs.
Parsley, Sliced Lemon and Radishes to Gar-
Stew^ed Frogs.
nish.
Salt and Pepper to Taste. Grenouilles en Fricasse.
Scald the Frogs' legs about three 1 Dozen Frog Legs.
minutes in boiling water and add a 1 Tablespoonful of Butter.
half cup of lemon Juice and salt.
Take out of the water ani dry 1 Tablespoonful of Flour. % Pint of Water.
with a clean towel. Season with % Pint of Oyster Water.
salt and pepper and dip into a bat- 1 Sprig of Thyme. 1 Sprig of Parsley.
ter made of the well beaten yolks 1 Bay Leaf. 1 Sprig of Sweet Marjoram.
and whites of two eggs and sifted 10 Allspice. 1 Clove.
bread crumbs. Pat the Frogs well The Yollc of an Egg. Croutons.
and drop into the lard, heated to
2 Dozen Oysters.
a boiling point, and fry to a golden
brown. Take them from the lard and
drain well by placing on soft brown Take the legs of one dozen frogs
paper, heated. Place a snow-white and prepare the same as for frying.
folded napkin in a dish, and lay the Take a tablespoonful of butter and
frogs upon it and garnish with fried put in a frying pan. "When it begins
parsley and sliced lemon, or place to melt, add a tablespoonful of flour
the Frogs in a bed of fried parsley and stir constantly. "When it be-
laid in the dish and garnish with gins to brown nicely, add a half pint
decorated radishes and sliced lem- of water and a pint of oyster water.
ons. Throw in the Frog legs as it begins
Broiled Frogs. to boil, and add salt and pepper, a
Grenouilles Grilles. little Cayenne, a sprig of thyme,
6 Piog Legs.
-
bay leaf and sweet marjoram, eight
Or ten allspice, one clove. Let it
A Cup Lemon Juice and Salt.
of Boiling
simmer about fifteen minutes and
1 Tablespoonful of Olive Oil.
1 Teaspoonful of Black Pepper.
take off the fire. Have ready the
1 Tablespoonful of Butter. yolk of a beaten egg and add, blend-
Salt and Pepper to Taste. ing well, and serve immediately with
Lettuce Leaves and Paisley, or Sliced Lemons garnishes of Crofltons, and fried in
and Olives to Garnish. a little butter, with oysters laid
Clean and skin the Frogs; scald upon them.

CHAPTER IX.

SHBLIi FISH.

Des Crustacfis.

Under this heading are classed the people and which are to be had for
shell fish found in our Louisiana wa- the fishing.
ters and those of the Mississippi That delicious bivalve, the Oyster,
Sound adjacent to New Orleans. has its home among us. Everyone
Oysl:ers,Shrimp, Crabs, and Crawfish wliD litis Orleans in win-
visited New
and the famous Green Turtle these ter l'.:n noted the exceptionally pal-
are the delightful varieties that are atable oysters that are sold in every
common articles of food among the restaurant and by the numerous
-'54

OYSTERS.
small vendors on almost every other
corner or s6 throughout the lower Huitres a, la Creole.
section of the city." In the cafs,
tha hotels, the oyster saloons, they
The Picayune has already given,
in the chapter devoted to soups, tlie
are served in every conceivable ways that the Creoles have
several
'style' known to epicures and caterers. of preparing oysters in this style.
The oyster beds adjacent to New (See Oyster Soups.) In a general
Orleans send to our markets the
famous Bayou Cook and Barataria treatment of oysters, it presents,
first, that famous but exceptionally
Oysters, eagerly sought and highly
palatable manner in which oysters
prized for exquisite flavor and un-
surpassed in quality. The Missis- can be eaten at all hours, day or
night, without overloading the stom-
sippi Sound is well-nigh stocked ach or causing the least symptom ol
with oysters from one end to the
indigestion, viz:
other, and millions of cans are
shipped yearly from Biloxi and other Raw Oysters on Halt Shell.
points to every part of the United
States. And
so with our celebrated Huitres en Coquilles.
Lake apd River Shrimp. No oysters 6 Oj-sters to Each Plate. Cracked Ice.
are caught in the Mississippi Sound Maunsell White or Black Pepper, Cayenne
between May and September, because and Vinegar.
they are somewhat milky and con- Lemon, Sliced or Cut in Quarters.
sidered unfit for use, and so strict Allow six oysters to each person
are the laws governing the uses of where the bivalve is used to begin
dredges in the Sound that a watch- the dinner or breakfast. Have the
man accompanies each dredge-boat oysters opened in their shell and
to see that no attempt is made to remove onerhalf of the shell. Drain
use the dredge in less than fourteen the water from the oyster shell,
feet of water, the idea being that
without disturbing the oyster, and
dredges, shall not be used where the place in plates, with cracked ice,
water is sufficiently shallow to ad- sprinkled over with a, quarter ot a
mit of their being dug of tongs. sliced lemon in the center of the
Thus are preserved, in all their plate. Serve with black pepper and
splendid flavor and almost inex- Cayenne, if desired, or the famous
haustible supply, our oyster beds, Maunsell White, sold in all New
and while the yearly increase in con- Orleans oyster saloons. A half cup
sumption of this delicious bivalve
is given as "lagniappe" by the deal-
has tended to alarm scientists and
ers to their customers.
to awaken an interest in the ques-
tion as to whether the American oys-
A more attractive way of serving
ter beds may not likely become de-
raw oysters is to remove them from
pleted,
the shell and place in the delicate
scientists acquainted with oyster plates used by the old Creoles
the oyster beds on our Gulf coast
say that for domestic purposes there garnished with sliced lemon between
are sufHcient oysters to supply the the little bed that holds each oys-
ter, and placing the Maunsell White
United States. The railroad facili-
ties for handling oysters can hardly or pepper and Cayenne in the little
be improved, and fresh and fine and cell in the center of the dish.
ready to be eaten, they arrive in our Again, where these delicate plates
markets. The Bayou Cook and Bar- are not in family use, place the oys-
a
ataria Oysters are with us all sum- ters in the usual dinner plate in
mer, and New Orleans is the ac- bed of finely chopped ice, allowing
knowledged commercial center of ' a half dozen oysters for each per-
the oyster trade on the Gulf Coast. son. Cut lemon in quarters and hand
New Orleans opened the eyes of around with black pepper, salt and
the United States to the possibili- pepper vinegar.
ties of the oyster in every variety Dainty rolls of fresh butter and
'

and form of cooking. Her chefs oyster crackers are served with raw
evolved the most dainty and pala- oysters.
table ways ot preparing them, and A daily sight in our New Orleans
while raw oysters remained practi- streets is to see the negro servants
cally an unknown quantity in aris- going at lunch or supper time to the
tocratic centers in other States of nearest oyster saloon with a great
the Union, the Creoles, quick to dis- salver for oysters on half-shell. They
cover and. apply, placed the raw return with the dainty bivalves
oyster on their table as one of the ranged closely in their open shells
greatest delicacies that could be of- on the salver, and with a small
fered the most fastidious appetite. glass of Maunsell "White, and a
In the following recipes are given plate of "hard-tack" (oyster breajDi
the most delightful manner of serv- or crackers.
ing Worcestershire Sauce is often used
instead of the Maunsell White by
those who do not like the taste" of
.

55

pepper. But the piquant Maunsell Broiled Oysters on Tonst.


White essentially Creole, origi-
is Huitres sur Canapes.
nated in New Orleans, and gives the
oyster a toothsome touch that must 6 or 8 to Each Person. Salt and
Oysters
be tasted in order to he appreci- Pepper to Taste.
6 or 8 Pieces of Buttered Toast or Milk Toast.
ated.
2 Tablespoonfuls of Melted Butter.
Oysters Served In a Block of Ice. Chopped Parsley to Garnish.
Hultres sur la Glace. Broil the oysters according to the
recipe given above. Have ready a
6 Oysters to Each Person. A Square Block
heated dish; sprinkle the oysters
of Ice.
Black Pepper and Cayenne.
with salt and pepper and pour over
Sprigs of Parsley and Radishes to Garnish. melted butter. Serve on small
Lemon Cut in Quarters. pieces of buttered toast, or milk
toast. Sprinkle with flnely-chopped
This is one of the pr"ettiest ways parsley.
of serving oysters at a dinner or
luncheon, as well as one of the most
Broiled Oysters With Sauce
Kspaoguole.
r^cherchfe. Have your dealer send
a square block of Ice of the size Huitres GrillSes a la Sauce Espa-
desired and make a hollow in the gnole.
center of the block by placing a I Pint of Liquor to Every 2 Dozen
Oyster
flat-iron on the top, scooping out Oysters.
with the iron the shape desired. 1 Tablespoontul of Butter. 2 Tablespoonfuls
Then place a folded napkin on a of Sifted Flour.
platter and stand the block of ice Salt and Cayenne to Taste. Chopped Parsley.'
upon it. Pepper the oysters nicely 6 or 8 Squares of Buttered Toast.
with Cayenne and black pepper, and Drain the oysters and allow about
place in the ice. Then take sprigs one pint of the oyster liquor to every
of parsley and decorate the platter, two dozen oysters. Have ready a
placing between decorated radishes, porcelain-lined saucepan and put the
and alternate slices of lemon, and liquor on to boil. As the scum rises
serve the oysters with lemon cut in skim it carefully. Put one table-
quarters. The effect of this decora- spoonful of butter into a frying pan,
tion is very charming. Smilax may and when it begins to heat, add
be substituted for the parsley or gradually two tablespoonfuls of
mixed with it. The cavity should sifted flour. Mix well and brown.
be square and deep, leaving walls Pour over this the oyster liquor and
of ice about two inches in thickness. stir constantly till It begins to boil,
seasoning with salt and pepper (Ca-
Broiled Oysters. yenne) and parsley chopped very
Huitres sur le Gril. flne. Stand the sauce in a vessel in
Salt and
hot water (bain-marie) until wanted,
6 or 8 Oysters to Each Person.
Cayenne to Taste. and proceed to broil the oysters in
Melted Butter and Chopped Parsley. the same manner asin the recipe
Sliced Lemon and Sprigs of Parsley to Gar-
first given. Place squares of but-
nish. tered toast in a dish, lay the oys-
ters on top, pour over the sauce, and
Allow six or eight oysters for each serve immediately.
person. The oysters must be large
and fat, they will shrivel to
else Oysters en Brochettcs.
nothing in cooking. Drain the oys- Huitres en Brochettes.
ters through a colander, lay them on
3 Dozen Large, Fat Oysters. Thin Slits o(
a dish and. wipe- with a dry, clean Bacon.
towel. Melt butter and dip in the
A Tablespoontul of Butter.
oysters, seasoned well with salt and 1 Tablespoontul of Minced Parsley.
Cayenne on both sides. Have ready Sliced Lemon and Oli-ves to Garnishi -

the gridiron ( use ajways the double


wire broiler) and test the .heat by ,
Have ready a 'furnace with red'^
dropping a littl-e wa,ter on it. If hot coals; take fine sliced breakfas.f
the water hisses, the broiler is quite" bacon and cut into thin slits about
ready. Place the broiler in a warm the size of tlie oyster. Drain three

place just over the oyen will do.
Butter and place the oysters on it:
dozen large, fat oysters; take a long
skewer, of silver or metal that is
Return to moderate coals. As soon not dangerous, and string it first
as the oysters are browned on one with a slit of bacon and then, afl
side, turn on the other and brown. oyster, alternating this until It" "13
Have ready a heated dish and serve filled, the extreme ends, terminating
the oysters, pouring over melted but- with the bacon. Then hold the oys-
ter and chopped parsley (chopped ters over the clear fire and broil un-
very fine). Garnish with sprigs oE til the edges begin to ruffle, "when
parsley and sliced lemon and serve they are done. In the meantime pre-
immediately. pare some drawn butter by placing
56

about a tablespoonful in a cup before fine. Drop in the frying pan of boil-
the fire to melt; place the oysters in ing lard, having sufficient lard to al-
a hot dish, alternating with slices low the oysters to swim in the
of bacon, sprinkle with pepper and grease. Remove when a golden
salt, and pour over the drawn but- brown and place on brown paper and
ter mixed with abo\it one tablespoon- drain. Serve on a platter garnished
ful of parsley, chopped fine; garnish with parsley or on a bed of fried
with slices of lemons and whole parsley. (See recipe for Fried Pars-
olives, and serve. The oysters and ley.)
bacon may be served on the skewers,
ifthey are not charred or blackened; Fried Oysters fl la Creole,
but the other is the far daintier Huitres Frites a, la Creole.
method.
6 or 8 Oysters to Each- Person.
,

Oysters Broiled in Shells. 1 Egg. 1 Glass of Milk.


Huitres en Coquilles sur le Grll. Va Teaspoonful of Salt. %
Teaspoonful ol
Black Pepper.
Dozen Fine, Fat Oysters.
3
Grated Cracker or Bread Crumbs. Butter Oil.
1 Tablespoonful of Finely. Chopped Parsley.
Parsley.
1 Bay Leaf. Sprigs of Thyme.
Sliced Lemon and Pickle to Garnish.
1 Sprig of Sweet Basil. 2 Shallots.
1 Tablespoonful of 'Butter. Grated Bread Select the firmest and largest oys-
Crumbs. ters, allowing six or eight to each
Asparagus Tips and Sliced Lemon to Garnish. person. Drain in a colander and
Dozen Well Washed Oyster Shells.
dry with a soft linen towel. Beat
Take tijree dozen fine oysters; an egg thoroughly and mix with a
glass of milk and a half teaspoonful
blanch in their own water and drain.
Chop a tablespoonful of fine pars- of salt and pepper. Mash bread
ley, bay leaf and thyme, using a
crumbs or crackers in another dish.
sprig each of the latter and a sprig
Dip the oysters one by one in the
of sweet basil. Cut up two nice shal-
milk and roll gently in the bread
lots very fine and add. Place a crumbs, patting softly with the
hands, and drop into a deep frying
tablespoonful of butter in a sauce-
pan; add a little oyster Juice sautS, pan with sufficient lard or butter
oil for the oyster to swim in it. In
or shake the oysters without making
a bouillon. When two minutes from three to five minutes the oys-
ters will be done. The time given
have passed, take oft the stove, place
will allow them to fry to a nice
the oysters in the well washed shells,
golden brown, and it will not be
sprinkle over a little bread crumbs,
necessary to turn them if the oil in
and put on top of each a pinch of the pan is deep enough. Take them
butter. Have ready the gridiron or
out with a skimmer, being careful
broiler very hot; place the shells be-
tween the double broiler, set over not to break, and drain on a piece
of soft brown paper. Serve on a
the fire to broil for about four or
five minutes, and serve with delicate
bed of fried parsley, with garnishes
of sliced lemon and pickle. Bread
garnishes of asparagus tips and
- sliced lemon.
crumbs are far preferable to crack-
ers. Butter is often used in frying
Oysters and Bacon. oysters, but the butter oil is found
by experience to be better than either
Huitres BardSes. lard or butter. Some also use corn-
3 Dozen Oysters. Thin Slices of Breakfast meal instead of the bread crumbs,
Bacon. but there is no comparison as to
Minced Parsley. Sauce Flquante. results.
Wrap each oyster in a very thin
SteTved Oysters.
slice of breakfast bacon. Lay on a
broiler over a baking pan in a hot Huitres en Fricassfee.
oven. Tlemove when the bacon is 4 Dozen Large Oysters.
brown. Each must be fastened with 1 Tablespoonful of Flour. 1 Tablespoonful
a wooden toothpick. Serve with of Sutter.
minced parsley and pepper sauce, or 1 Pint of Oyster Liquor.
Sauc^ Piquante. (See recipe.) 1 Pint of Rich Cream or Milk.
Salt and Pepper to Taste.
Fried Oysters.
Take about four dozen large oys-
Huitres Frites. ters, drain in a colander. Mix one
6 or 8 Oysters to Each Person. tablespoonful of flour and one of
Salt and Pepper. butter together. Put one pint of
Finely Grated Bread Crumbs. Parsley to oyster liquor on the fire and add the
Garnish. flour and butter blended. Have
Boiling Lard. ready in another saucepan a pint of
Drain the oysters, allowing aljout rich, hot cream. After five min-
six or eight to each person to be utes, add this to the oyster liquor,
served. Salt and pepper and then roll stirring constantly to prevent burn-
oysters in bread crumbs, grated very ing. Salt and pepper to taste. I^t
57

it boil up once and then add the oys- Have ready the yolks of two eggs
ters. After three minutes serve. well beaten, and, as soon as the milk
This is a very delicate dish. boils, take from the fire and add the
Oyster Sautees. eggs, one tablespoonful of parsley
chopped fine, one bay leaf chopped
Huitres SautSes. fine,mace, and a sprig of finely-
6 or S Oysters to Each Person. chopped thyme. Add salt and Ca-
3 Slices o( Pat Bacon. yenne to taste, and add, the oysters.
1 TaWespoonful of Flour. Salt and Pepper Take the deep shells of the oysters,
to Taste. which have been washed perfectly
6 or 8 Squares of Buttered Toast. clean, and fill with this mixture;
Olives. Pickles and Sliced Lemon to Garnisli. sprinkle lightly with bread crumbs;
Drain the oysters well and dry put a pinch of butter on top, and set
with a clean towel. Sprinkle them in the baking pan and brown. The
with pepper and salt, and roll in a oven should be very quick, and only
little flour. Place the bacon, cut five minutes are needed for the
into thin slices, in a frying pan, and browning. Serve the oysters thus
let all the fat fry out. Remove the baked in their shells, and garnish
bacon .from the pan and place in the the dish with sprigs of parsley or
oysters, covering the bottom. As asparagus tips, olives and sliced
they turn a golden brown on one lemon.
side, turn over on the other. Serve Currted Oysters.
on squares of buttered toast, with Huitres au Kari.
garnishes of olives, pickles and 4 Dozen Oystei-s.
sliced lemon. 1 Tablespoonful of Butter. 2 Tablespoonfuls
Coddled Oysters. Flour.
HuStres Rotie sur Canapfis. 1 'Gill of Rich Cream or 2 Gills of Good Milk.
% Teaspoonful of Gurry Powder.
6 or 8 Oysters to Each Person. A Pinch of Corn Starch.
6 Slices of Bread. 2 Sprigs ' of1 Bay Leaf. 3 Sprigs
Thyme.
1 Large Tablespoonful of Butter. Tea- % of Parsley.
spoonful of Salt. Salt and Cayenne to Taste. The Oyster Water.
% Teaspoonful of Black Pepper. A Dash of l^Cup of Louisiana Rice Boiled a la
Cayenne. Creole, for Border.
2 Sprigs of ' Parsley Chopped Very Fine. Take four dozen fine, large oys-
1 Bay Leaf Minced Fine. ters and drain the oyster liquor into
3 Cloves. 1 Blade of Mace. 1 Pint of Oys-
ter Liquor.
a saucepan, being careful to extract
all pieces of shell, and set it to
Toast five or six slices of bread to boil. Wipe the oysters dry with a
a nice brown and butter them on clean towel. Put in another sauce-
both sides. Drain the liquor from pan one tablespoonful of butter and
the oysters and put it in a saucepan. let it melt; then add two tablespoon-
When hot, add a large lump of but- fuls of fiour, stirring constantly and
ter. Have ready a baking dish and rubbing smoothly; do not let it
place the toast within; lay the oys- brown. Add about one gill of rich
ters on the toast, having seasoned cream, or two gills of good milk, to
well with salt, Cayenne pepper, the boiling oyster juice, and stir all
chopped parsley, bay leaf, mace and this into, the fiour slowly, avoiding
cloves. Put the liquor of the oys- the formation of any lumps, and
ters over the toast until it is well stirring constantly. Let this boil
absorbed. Set in an oven and bake about two minutes. Take one-half
for five or six minutes with a quick teaspoonful of curry powder and a
fire. t)inch of cornstarch or fiour and rub
Deviled Oysters. smoothly with a few drops of cold
Huitres a. la Diable. milk. Stir this into the oyster juice;
3 Dozen Oysters. 1 Tablespoonful of Butter.
season a la Cr6ole with Cayenne, salt,
2 Tablespoonfuls of Flour.
chopped thyme, etc., and, as it boils
y. Pint of Cream. The Yolks of 2 Eggs.
up, drop in the oysters; let them
1 Tablespoonful of Chopped Parsley. 1 Bay cook about three minutes and serve
Leaf. 1 Blade of Mace. on a dish with a border of Louisiana
3 Sprigs of Parsley. Salt and Cayenne to Rice, boiled so as to appear l.ke
Taste. snowflakes, the grains standing
apart. Sprinkle chopped parsley
Sprigs of Parsley or Asparagus Tips, and
over the oysters to form a garnish.
Sliced Lemon and Olives to Garnish.
Take three dozen fine, large oys- Oysters Jl la Poulette.
ters, drain and chop them into mid- Huitres a, la Poulette.
dling fine pieces. Rub together one 4 Dozen Oysters. 1 Gill of Sherry.
tablespoonful of butter and two ta- The i'olks Eggs. 2 Tablespoonfuls of
of 2
blespoonfuls of flour, very smoothly. Rich Cream.
Place in a saucepan one-half pint Toasted and Buttered Croutons.
of cream, and, when it is coming to Sliced Lemon and Parsley Sprigs to Garnish.
a boil, .stir in the flour and butter. Prepare as in the above recipe for
58

Curried Oysters, using a gill o slier- over each shell the sauce, filling nice,
ry instead of the milk and cream, ani ly, in pyramidal shape; place on
omitting tlie curry powder. Having each a bit of butter, and set In tho
dropped the oysters into the boiling stove for about five minutes, or over
oyster juice, remove from the fire a gridiron on a slow fire for about
after cooking three minutes. Beat ten minutes. Serve in the shells,
well the yolks of two eggs with two with garnish of parsley and le.nons,
tablespoonfuls of rich cream, add to sliced.
the oysters, and serve with toasted
and buttered Crodtons, a garnish Scalloped Oysters.
of sliced lemons and parsley sprigs.
Coquilles d'Huitres.
niiucetl Oysters,
4 Dozen Fine Oysters. 3 Tablespoonfuls o(
Hultres en Haohis. Butter.'
4 Dozen Oysters. 1 Gill of Oyster Juice. 1 Blade of Mace. 4 Cloyes. 1 Sprig of Tliyuic
A. Half Can of Mushrooms. Bay Leaf. 3 Sprigs of Parsley.
1
1 Gill of White Wiue. 3 Yolks of Eggs.
1 Tuhlespoouful of Butter. % Cup of Rich Milic or Cream.
1 Gill of Ulch Cream. 1 Tahlespoouful of Va Cup of Oyster Liquor. Grated Bread
Flour. Crumbs.
Parsley and Chives aud Thyme, cboppetl fine.
Scald the oysters in their ov^rn wa- Select about four dozen fine oys-
ter. Drain and mince, but not too ters. Have ready a porcelain-li.ied
fine. Put into the saucepan a table- baking dish, or any good dish that
spoonful of butter, and, when melted, will not darken the oysters. Drain
add the parsley (chopped fine), the the oysters in a colander, strain the
herbs and the mushrooms. Then liquor to remove all pieces of sheil
add the flour, which has been rubbed and save it. Butter the baking dish
smoothly In a gill of oyster juice, and place in a layer of oysters,
and, after it stews about five min- well seasoned, a la Crfiole, with Ca-
utes, add the white wine; if this is yenne, salt, chopped mace, cloves,
not obtainable, add another gill of thyme, parsley and bay leaf, chopped
oyster juice. Mix thoroughly, and very fine. Place over a layer of
then add the minced oysters, and bread crumbs, about a half-ineh in
stew gently until the sauce is ab- thickness. Place here and there lit-
sorbed and the mince forms a thick tle dots of butter and sprinkle with
batter. Be very careful not to salt and pepper. Add another layer
scorch. Remove from the Are and of seasoned oysters, and then anoth-
add in the yolks of the eggs, which er layer of bread crumbs, until the
have been beaten smoothly, in the dish is full. Then mix a half cup
cream. Set it bade on the fire and of rich cream and milk and a half cup
let it remain about one minute, and of the oyster liquor, and pour over
serve on large toasted and buttered the dish. Sprinkle the last layer
Crofltons, witli garnish of lemon and wlth bread crumbs and dot gently
parsley and olives. with bits of butter. Place in a
quick oven and bake about fifteen
Baked Oysters, or twenty minutes, or until a nice
Huitres au G.'atin.
brown.
The above is a splendid receipt for
S Dozen Fine, Large Oysters. family use. Where it is desired to
1 TabIei^poonful of Butter. be more fastidious and scalloped oys-
Sauce Piiiuante. 3 Shallots. ters are served for luncheon, or when
Can of Mushrooms.
1^
guests are expected, follow the above
1 Tahlespoouful of Flour. 1 Gill White Wine.
directions for seasoning and prepar-
Parsley, Tliyme and Bay Lear,
ing the oysters. Have ready about
chopped fiue.
one dozen of the deep shells which
Boil the oysters about two min- have been thoroughly washed and
utes in their own liquor, dropping scalloped nicely, taking off the rougli
them in the liquor as it comes to edges and every grain of dust or
the boiling point. Pass them through dirt by scraping well. Have ready
a "Sauce Piquante," rolling nicely. a large baking pan., Place the oys-
Mix the melted butter and the ter shells within and fill the shells
chopped parsley, thyme, etc., the with alternate layers of oysters and
shallots chopped very fine, and crumbs, allowing three or six clys-
moisten well with a little oyster ters to each shell; sprinkle with
juice; chop the mushrooms fine and bread crumbs, moisten a little with
add, pouring In the gill of wine. Af- cream and oyster juice, and bake and
ter it is reduced, being careful to serve in their own shells. The flav-
Btlr constantly, select the finest and or of the oyster is highly Improved
largest shells of the oysters, which by baking in Its own shell, care be-
have be^ cleaned well, and place ing taken always not to scrape the
In each four or six oysters; pour inside or blanch with hot water.
59

Oysters nu Paruiesriu. oysters, heat a deep frying pan,


Huitres au Parmesan. drop in a generous lump of butter.
8 Dozen Oysters. When it melts, add the oysters, cov-
Grated Piiniiesau Clioesc.
,
ering and shaking the pan constant-
1 Cup ot Griited Brend Crumbs. ly over a hot flre. Have ready a
1 Gill o White Wiue. dish well buttered and nicely gar-
1 Tublespoouful ot Cliiipped Parsley. nished with parsley and lemon slices.
1 Tublespoontul of Butter. When the oysters are brown, turn
Salt, Cayeuue. 1 Bay Leaf. quickly into the dish and add suit
1 Sprig of Thyme. and pepper and melted butter, into
Brown the bread crumbs in a littl3 which you have dropped finely
butter, and butter a shallow disli chopped parsley, and serve hot.
and stew with bread crumbs. Drain Steamed Oysters.
the oysters and dry with a clean Huitres a la Vapeur.
towel; season highly &, la Crfiole; 4 Dozen Oysters.
place them, one by one, on the bread A Tablespoonful of Butter.
crumbs; strew chopped parsley over Salt and Pepper to Taste.
them, and the grated cheese, using A Dash of Cayenne.
good judgment as to quantitj'.
Sprinkle lightly with bread crun:bs This is a -favorite way of eating
again, and pour over all a gill of oysters in New Orleans. Have rea-dy
white wine. Place in the oven, a pot of boiling water. Drain the
whicli should be very quick; let then oysters in their shells and put the.n
remain about fifteen minutes, till in a shallow tin pan, the bottom be-
quite brown. Take out and pour ing perforated. Cover and put tliom
over a little drawn butter, and serve over the steamer. Let them stand
with lemon garnish. about ten minutes, put into a hot
dish, season with pepper and Ca-
Roasted Oysters. yenne, and serve with drawn butter
sauce. If one has not the perfora-
Huitres Rotis.
ted tin, steam the oysters in their
3 Dozen Fine, Large, Fiit Oysters. shells. Wash the shells thoroughly
1 Tablespoonful Butter. on the outside, place the oysters in
Salt and Pepper to Taste. the steamer and cover, letting them
Buttered Toast. remain about fifteen minutes over the
Clean the oyster shells thoroughly, boiling water, or until the shells
set them on the top of the stove or open easily, and serve. A steamer
place in a baking pan until the shell may be improvised by using a col-
is easily removed. Remove the flat ander and a closely fitting pot lid.
outer shell. Butter the oyster in the The steamed oyster must be eaten
deep shell and serve very hot with when very hot to be appreciated in
salt and pepper. In old Creole fam- all its flavor.
ilies roasting parties were often giv-
en and there was always a frolic Oyster Frtt-ters.
in the kitchen, the belles and beaux Beignets d'Huitres.
roasting 3 Dozen Oysters.
vying with one another iii
2 Eggs. 1 Cup ot Milk.
the delicious bivalve. As the shells 2 Cups of Flour. 1 Teaspoontul ot Salt,
open put in a little butter. The oys- yj Teaspoontul of Good Baking I'oniler.
ters were sent to the' table in their Parsley or Asparagus Tips to Garnish.
shells; by a quick movement the
outer shell was removed, and they Take two dozen large oysters,
were eaten with pepper sauce or drain in a colander and remove any
pepper, salt and vinegar. The.re pieces of shell or grit that may ad-
were great frolics in the kitchens here. Chop the oysters fine. Take
In those days roasting oysters as
two eggs- and beat until very light.
at the famous "Crepe" or doughnut
Then add a cup of milk and rub in
smoothly two cupfuls of flour and
parties.
one teaspoontul of salt. Beat until
The good wife who wishes to de- perfectly smooth. Add one-half tea-
light her husband when he comes baking powder.
spoonful of good
home tired of an evening cannot
Mix well and then drop in the
betterwin her way to his heart than oysters which must be dry.
by serving him witli roasted or Then drop into boiling lard or oil.
steamed oysters. When browned on one side, turn on
Oyster Pan Roast, the other, being careful not to use
a fork or to pierce them, as that
Huitres a. la PoSle. would render the oysters and frit-
A Tablespoonful of Butter. ters heavy. Use a skimmer in re-
Tablespoonful of Chopped Parsley.
1 moving from the pot, and drain on
Salt and Pepper to Taste. brown paper. Serve on a dish In
Sliced Lemon and Parsley to Garnish. which you have placed a folded nap-
The largest and finest oysters are kin and garnish with sprigs of
used for this purpose. Drain the parsley or asparagus tips.
60

Oyster Balls.
Oyster Croquettes.
Boulettes d'Huitres.
Crotiuettes d'HuItres. 2 Pints of Chopped Oysters.
3 Dozen Oysters. 3 Gill of RIcb Cream. 2 Pints of Chopped Sausage Meat.
Oyster Liquor.
1 Gill of
1 Egg. Grated Bread Crumbs.
2 Tablespoontula of Flour, of chopped oystera
To every pint
i Tablespoonful of Butter. add pint of chopped sausage
one
The Yolks of 2 Eggs. meat. Roll in bread crumbs; sea-
3 Sprigs of Parsley. son highly. Add one egg and roll
Salt and Pepper to Taste. in bread crumbs. Make into small
A Dash of Cayenne. A Well Beaten Egg. cakes and fry In boiling lard. Serve
Grated Bread Crumbs. Boiling Lard. hot.

Take two dozen oysters and boil Oyster Fatties,


them in their own liquor. Stir con- Petites BouchSes d'Huitres.
stantly and boil for about five min-
utes. Remove from the fire. Take 4 Dozen Oysters. % Can of Mushrooms.
2 Tahlespoonfuls of Butter.
out the oysters and chop very fine.
1 Small Onion, Grated.
Put them into a saucepan with about Pepper, Salt, Chopped Parsley and
one gill each of rich cream and oys- Lemon Juice.
ter liquor. Rub together two table-
spoonfuls of flour and one of but- Prepare a puff paste (see recipe)
ter. Add this and the oysters to tin and lay on the ice to cool. Boil the
boiling' milk and cream. Stir until oysters in their own liquor. Drain,
it thickens and boils. Then add the put the butter in the saucepan, and
yolk of two eggs. Stir this over the when it is heated, add the grated
firefor about one minute, and then onion and rub in the flour until
take oft and add parsley, chopped smooth. Add a gill of mushroom
fine, salt and Cayenne. Mix well Juice and pepper, salt and Cayenne
and place In a dish to cool. Then to taste, and the mushrooms chopped
roll in a beaten egg to bind and in Then add the oysters
quarters.
form into cylinders of about a fing- and stew about five minutes,
let all
er in length. Roll in bread crumbs adding the lemon Juice. A table-
mashed fine, and fry In boiling lard spoonful of cream will improve the
or oil. oysters. If this is used, omit the
lemon Juice. Line the small tins with
Oyster Croquettes fl la Crfiole, the puff paste and put In each three
or four oysters according to the size
Croquettes d'Huitres k la Creole. of the pate. Cover with the pas-te
and bake in a quick oven about fif-
3 Dozen Fine Oysters. teen minutes.
1 Cup of the White Meat of a Chicken Minced. To make the open p9,t6s so much
6 Finely ^Chopped Mushrooms. used at luncheon and entertainments
Teaspoonful of Onion Juice.
1 in New Orleans, cut the puff paste
% Cup of Cream. into round cakes. Those intended
The Yolks of 2 Eggs. for the bottom crust should be about
2 Tahlespoonfuls of Flour. a little less than an elgth of an
1 Bay Leaf. 1 Tablespoonful of Parsley.
inch thick. Those intended for the
1 Sprig of Thyme.
Salt and Cayenne Pepper to Taste.
upper layers should be a little thick-
er. Take a small biscuit cutter and
Boil the oysters about three min-
remove a round paste from the cen-
ter of these latter. This will leave
utes in their own liquor. Drain and
chop the oysters fine. Take a half a nice ring. Carefully place this
upon the bottom crust, and then a
cup of the liquor in which the oys-
ters have been broiled, set it on the
second ring, until the cavity is deep
fire and add the chopped oysters. enough to hold several oysters. Lay
Then add the half cup of cream, the the pieces that have been extracted
Into a pan with these and bake to a
chopped mushrooms and tl>e minced Then
fine brown in a quick oven.
chicken. Stir thoroughly into this
boiling mixture the butter and flour take out and fill the cavities with
which have been rubbed smoothly. the oysters prepared as above, fit
Add the chopped parsley, onion on the top very lightly, and set In
Juice, salt and Cayenne, and mix
the oven a second or two and serve.
well. Then add the yolks of the
eggs, well beaten. Let it cook about Oyster Pie.
two minutes and turn it out into a Vol-au-Vent d'Huitres.
dish to cool. When cold, roll Into 8 Dozen Large, Fine Oysters.
cylinders about two inches in length 1 Tablespoonful of Butter.
and one inch In diameter. Pass 6 Yolks of Eggs.
through bread crumbs and fry in Spices, Thyme, Bay Leaf, Parsley*
boiling lard. Serve immediately on 1 Slice of Grated . Bread,
a bed of fried parsley. Take an earthen dish which will
61

hold about three and a halt pints nicely in the salad bowl. Turn the
and line the sides with ricli pld oysters into the center of the leaves
crust. (See recipe for Pie Crust.) and pour over them the following
Set in the stove and let it bake a dressing: Take the yolks of three
few minutes. In the meantime, take "aw eggs, half a teaspoonful of mus-
about one pint and a half of the oys- tard, and a little salt; beat these to-
ter liquor and put on the fire, after gether until they begin to thicken,
having drained well. Add the sea- and add gradually olive oil, as in
sonings of chopped herbs and Ca- making Mayonnaise, until it begins
yenne. Rub a tablespoonful of flour to thicken. Add a little vinegar to
into the butter and add to the liquor, thin and serve with the oysters.
stirring constantly. Mash the
grated crumbs; add to this, and mix Pickled Oysters.
well. Chop the hard-boiled eggs
fine. Then pour the oysters into tha Huitres en Marinade.
pan of pie crust, sprinkle some of
the chopped eggs and grated bread Huitres rn Marinade.
50 or 100 Large, Fine Oysters.
crumbs over, and put a teaspoonful 12 Blades of Mace.
of butter in small bits here and
1 Large Tablespoonful of Allspice.
there over this. Then roll out very 1 Level Tablespoonful of Cloves.
fine and thin a layer of the pie crust. 1 Pepper. 2 Sliced Lemons.
Place this over the preparation and ^ Pint of White Vinegar.
ornament here and there, all around, Salt to Taste.
with neat notches or designs, which Vi Dozen Pepper Corns.
can be easily formed with the end
of a spoon or the prongs of a fork. Boil the oysters in their own liq-
Cut a hole in the center in the shape uor until the edges begin to ruflle.
of the letter X. Set in a moderately Then take a half pint of white wine
quick oven and bake till brown. In vinegar and a half pint of the oys-
the meantime, melt one tablespoon- ter water and set to boil, adding the
ful of butter, add the remaining oys- blades of mace, cloves, allspice, pep-
ter liquor and season with pepper and per corns and a dash of Cayenne.
salt. When it is about to come to a Salt to taste. As soon as they come
boil, add one-half cup of rich, hot to a good boil, pour the oysters into
cream or boiled milk, and when the the boiling liquor. Care must be
pie is nearly brown, put a funnel taken to have the oysters very cold,
into the opening in the center and as they will make the pickles slimy
pour in as much of the liquor as otherwise. After adding the oys-
the pie will hold. Place a delicate ters to the boiling liquid, set it
garnish of pastry leaves over the aside to cool. Put in a very cool ice
whole and bake a minute or so long- box and serve cold. This is a deli-
er. -If there is any sauce left over, cious Creole luncheon dish.
serve it with the pie.
Great care must be taken not to Oyster Loal.
have the oysters over done. For this
reason the upper crust is often baked La M4diatrice.
separately, as the bottom of the pie French Loaves of Bread.
Delicate
is filled with the ingredients and the
2 Dozen Oysters to a Loaf.
upper crust placed on and served. 1 Tatilespoontul of Melted Butter.
Else the oysters are laid in layers
while raw into the crust. But they called the "famous peace-
This is
are liable to become too dry when New Orleans. Every hus-
used in this way.
maker" in
band, who is detained down town,
laughingly carries home an oyster
Oyster Salad. loaf, or Mfidiatrice, to make "peace"
with his anxiously waiting wife.
Huitres en Salade. Right justly is the Oyster Loaf
called the "Peacemaker," for, well
Dozen Large Oysters. 2 Cilsp
4 made, it is enough to bring the
Heads of Lettuce. smiles to the face of the most dis-
The Tolks of Ibree Eggs. Va Teaspoonful of
heartened wife.
Mustard.
14 Teaspoonful of Salt.
Take delicate French loaves of
2 Tablespooufuls of Olive Oil.
bread and cut off, lengthwise, the
1 Tablespoonful of Vinegar.
upper portion. Dig the crumbs out
Pepper and Cayenne to Taste. of the center of each piece, leaving
the sides and bottom like a square
Oyster Salad is a favorite lunch box. Brush each corner of the box
dish. Boil about four dozen large and the bottom with melted butter,
oysters in their own liquor, season and place in a quick oven ,to brown.
with salt and pepper. Drain and Pill with broiled or creamed oys-
set aside to cool. Take two crisp ters. Cover with each other and
heads of lettuce leaves and arrange serve.
CHAPTER X.

SHELL FISH (ConHmiea.)

Des CrustacSs

This chapter embraces methods same taste as when boiled in the


of cooking Shrimp, Crab, Crawflsli briny water.
and Turtle, according to the m03t Sle-pred SUrlinps.
approved rules of the Creole Cuisine.
Chevrettes a, la Creole.
SHHIMPS. 1 Large Onion.
100 Fine Lake Shrimp.
Des Chevrettes. 1 Tablespoouful of Butter. 1 Can of Toma-
toes or 12 Fresh Ones.
New is famous for the ex-
Orleans
Celery Stalks, 1 Clove of Garlic, 1 Sprig
4
o.uisite flavor of the River and Lake
of Tliyniu.
shrimps which abound in its mar- 2 Bay lyeaves. Salt and Pepper to Taate.
kets. The River shrimp is the more A Dash of Cayeune.
delicate of the two and is always eat-
en broiled as a preliminary to dinner Get about 100 large Lake shrimp
or breakfast or luncheon. The Lake for recipe.
this Boil the shrimp
shrimp oE larger size and firmer flrst according to the recipe given
qualities is used for cooking pur- above, and then pick off the shells,
poses, and is served in various de- leaving the shrimp whole. Place them
lightful ways, known only to our in a dish. Chop fine one large on-
Creole cuisiniSres. From the Missis- ion and brown it with a ta-
sippi Sound and the New Orleans blespoonful of butter. Add a can
shore shrimp are sent deliciously of tomatoes or twelve large, ripe to-
canned to every part of the United matoes, chopped fine, in their own
States. In our markets they are liquor. Stir well and brown lightly.
sold fresh from the waters. Then add three or four stalks of
celery, a clove of garlic, a dash ol
Boiled Slirlmps.
Cayenne, a sprig of thyme, two bay
Chevrettes Bouillies. leaves, all chopped finely and sea-
soned with salt to taste. After
100 Fine River Shrimp.
A Large Bnncli of Celery and Celery Tops. this has cooked ten minutes, add the
2 Dozen Allspice. 2 Blades of ^lacc. shrimp. Let them cook ten minutes
1 Duzen Cloves. longer and serve. Never pour water
4 Sprigs Bad) of Tliypoe, Parsley and Bay into stewed shrimps, as the tomato
Leaf. 1 Ked I'epper Pod. juice makes gravy enough.
Cayenne, Black Pepper, Salt. Parsley Sprigs
to Garnisu. Fried S3irlmp.i.
Select fine large River shrimp for Chevrettes Frites.
this purpose. About 100 will ser\'e 100 SInlmp.
Fine Lake
a family of eight. Into a pot of wi- 1 Cup of Bread Cnimhs.
Milk. Grated
ter put a great quantity of salt, al- Salt and Pepper to Tas1. A Pasb of Cayenne.
most enough to make a brine. Pepper Fried Parsley and Parsley Tips and Olives
a great bunch of celery and celery to Garnish.
tops, chopped fine; two dozen all-
spice, two blades of mace, one dozen Fine Lake shrimp for this re-
I'^se
cloves, mashed fine; thym3, parsley, cipe. Boil first according to the re-
bay leaf, chopped fine; Cayenne and cipe given for Boiled Shrimps, Then
a red pepper pod. "When this ha.; take off the fire, pick off shells and
boiled so that all the flavor of the season well. Take a pan of milk,
herbs have been thoroughly ex- seTson well with salt and pepper,
tracted, throw in the shrimp. Let After rolling the shrimp well in
them boil ten minutes and then set this, roll them in grated bread
the pot aside and let the shrimp crumbs or yellow cornmeal (the lat-
cool in their own water. Serve in ter being preferable) and fry in
a platter on a bed of cracked ice, boiling lard. The shrimp must swim
and garnish with parsley sprigs. in the lard. When they are a nice
This dish is alTvays served as a pre- golden brown, skim out with a
liminary to a meal. A great deal of skimmer and drain on heated brown
salt is required in boiling, as the paper. Serve on a hot dish on a
shrimp absorb but little, and no af- bed of fried parsley and garnish
ter addition can quite give them the with parsley tips and olives.
63

Baked Shrlinps. Shrimp Snlnd.


Chevrettes au Gratin. Mayonnaise de Chevrettes,
100 Lake Shrimp. 1 Dozen Tomatoes. 100 River or Lake. Shrimp.
1 Tablespoontul of Butter. 1 Cup \t Grated 1 Small Oulon. 1 Bunch of Celery.

Bread Crumbs or Crackers. 3 Hard-Bolled Eggs. Salt and Pepper to Taste.


Sliced Lemous, Beets and Celery Tips to
Boil the shrimps according to re- '(jarulsh.
cipe. Butter a deep dish well and
place within a layer of grated bread Boil and pick the shrimp, accord-
ing to the recipe given. If Lake
crumbs or powdered crackers. Pick
slirimp are used, serve whole; if
and clean the shrimp and season two, as they
well. Stew about a dozen tomatoes Elver shrimp, slice in
will be more dainty, and season well
in a little butter and season with
pepper and salt. Place a layer ot with salt and pepper. Chop celery fine
the tomatoes in the dish and then a
and add a little onion. Place the
thin layer o( crackers or grated bread
shrimp in the salad dish and pour
over all fine Mayonnaise Sauce (sei^
and over this a layer of shrimp. recipe) and garnish with sliced
Continue till you have tour or five hard-boiled sliced lemon,
e.sgs,
layers, the last being of the grated
beets and celery tops, making a
bread crumbs. Put little dots of
beautiful and welcome dish at any
butter here and there; place in the
luncheon, tea or home affair.
oven and bake till quite brown.
Shrimp Pie. A Sllrlinp Biiali.
Buisson de Chevrettes.
Vol-au-Vent de Chevrettes.
lOO Lake Shrimp.
ICO Lake Sbrimp. Celery Tips. Asparagus Tips.
2 Slices of Stale Bread. 2 Glasses of Wbite
Wine.
A Shrimp Bush a famous Creole
is
hors .d'oeuvre, forms a very
and
1 Blade of Mace. 3 Sprigs ot Thyme.
handsome table decoration aUo.
Vi of a Ground Nutmeg.
3 Sprigs of Parsley. 1 Tablespoontul of Butter. Boil the shrimp according to recipe.
5 Tomatoes. %
of a Celery Stalk. (See recipe Boiled Shrimps.) Take a
1 Bay Leaf. %
Pint ot Oyster Liquor. glass fruit or cake stand, the fruit'
and pick about 100 shrimp.
Boil stand with several tiers being th?
Take two largs siloes of stale breaii prettier. As shrimp are s.-nall, they
and break oft the crusts, grating this cannot be hung, gracefully around
fine. Moisten the bread with two the stand as in a Crawfush Bus';i.
glasses of white wine, and season (See r-ecipe.) They are, therefore,
highly with salt, pepper, a dash of piled, first, into a small deep dish,
Cayenne, ground nutmeg, chopped and a close cover is put on to press
mace, thyme and parsley. Mix the them dbwn. They are then turned
s.nrimp with the bread and bake in a over and will be found clinging to-
dish.Sprinkle over the grated, gether in one solid mass. If a cak-^
and dotting with butter.
crusts stand is used, set a glass bowl or
Serve this pie with a sauce of goblet on it. Place the shrimp on
dressed shrimp. To make this, take top of this glass bowl or goblet;
a pint of shrimp, boiled and picked; then take dainty bits of celery tips
put a tablespoonful of butter into a and asparagus tips, and heap around
saucepan. Add the shrimp and four as for a border. Another row
or five tomatoes, chopped fine; a is formed a littleandlower,
little celery, thyme, one bay laaf, again intermingled with aspara-
chopped fine; parsley (chopped) and gus tips and celery tops, between
mix thoroughly. Let it cook for which the pink shrimp are grace-
about three or four minutes and adJ fully placed and glimmer. The ef-
fect is very pretty. Tlie shrimp are
a half pint of oyster stock. This
is delicious poured over the sliced served from the bush as an hors
pie. d'oeuvre. The effect of the pink
against the green looks for all the
SItrlinpH in Tomato Cntsnp. world like a bush of green and red.
Chevrettes 4 la Sauce Tomate. CRABS.
100 River Shrimp.
Des Crabes.
2 Tablespoonfuls of Tomato Catsup.
3 Hard-Boiled Eggs. Salt, Pepper and Ca- New Orleans points with pride,
yenne to Taste. and Justly, not only to the splendid
Boil the shrimppick. Put
and supply ot crabs that are to be found
them Season well
into a salad dish. at all seasons in her markets, but
with black pepper and salt and a to the various delightful ways that
dash of Cayenne. Then add two ta- the natives have of serving them.
blespoonfuls of tomato catsup to The following are re'ipes that have
every half pint of shrimps. Garnish been handed down by the Creoles
with lettuce leaves and hard-boiled from generation to generation, and
egg and serve. no modern innovations of cookery
64

have been able to improve upon a large pot of water. Throw In


them. bunches of celery tops, stalks of eel.
Hard Shell Crabs. ery chopped fine, four or five large
Crabes
Durs. sprigs each of thyme, cliopped sweet
basil, marjoram, chives, two dozen
Many Northerners object to eating
allspice, three blades of mace, three
hard-shell crabs on account of the bay leaves,, chopped fine; a pod of
difficulty in picking them. Some red pepper, a dash of Cayenne, blacic
Northern cooks have gone so far as pepper and salt enough to make the
to declare the hard-shell crab an
unpalatable and indigestible article
water briny. -When this has boiled
long enough to have extracted all
of food on account of its shell. This
the flavor of the herbs, throw in the
idea, of course, is very amusing. One
Northern authority goes so far as
live crabs and let them boil rapidly
for about ten minutes, or until the
to declare that the crab can never
shells are a bright red, but do not
take the place of the aristocratic
lobster, the latter being far more di-
let them
boil one minute longer
gestible. In reality there is no than as they will become wa-
this,
comparison in the delicacy of the tery. Let them cool a little in their
meats of these fish, which are, in- own water and then take out, strip
off the "dead man's fingers," crack
deed, of lobster variety, the
the
hard-shell crab
being the small- the claws, without breaking open,
er, and by
far the more deli- and pile high in a broad platter and
cate. And as for the soft shell serve with salt and pepper.
crab, it is a born aristocrat and is Stewed Crabs.
acknowledged as such by the most
fastidious epicureans. There is a Crabes a, la Creole.
science in eating the hard-shell 1 Dozen Large Live Crabs.
crab cooked in its own shell. The Tablespoonfnl of Butter or Lard.
Creoles have reduced this to a fine 1 Stalk Chopped Celery.
point, and a crab may be eaten 1 Dozen rresh Tomatoes or 1 Can.

without once using the fingers, if Thyme, Parsley, Bay Leaf, 1 Clove, Garlic,
pne only follows the following sim- gait and Cayenne to Taste.
ple direction: Boil a dozen fine large crabs about
five minutes in order to kill them.
How to Eat Hard-Shell Crab Take oft the fire and place in a dish.
Cooked in Its Shell. When sufficiently cooled, cut oft the
The shell and cla.ws should be claws and
crack, separating the
cracked in the kitchen, very gently, joints. Remove the "apron" or "tab-
before being brought to the table if lier" of the crab and the "dead man's
the crabs are boiled and served fingers," and take off the spongy sub.
whole. By a delicate manipulation stance. These are the portions that
of the knife and fork, remove the are uneatable. Remove the shell,
"apron" or "tablier," which is the cut the body of the- crab into four
small loose shell running to a point parts, cutting down the center and
about the middle of the under shell. across. Chop a large onion very fine
Then cut the crab claws off, still and brown with butter or lard, using
using the knife and fork; and finally a tablespoonful of either. Add a
cut the crab into parts, and these dozen fine, large, fresh tomatoes,
again in two. Proceed to extract chopped fine, in their liquor, and
the meat from each quarter with the brown nicely. Stir in chopped cel-
fork and eat with salt and pepper. thyme, parsley, one bay leaf,
ery^
It is considered quite "comme il chopped fine; pepper and salt to
faut" to use the fingers, however, in taste, and a dash of Cayenne pepper.
holding the crabs, extracting the Add one clove of garlic, chopped fine.
meat with the prongs of the fork. Taste and add more seasoning if
necessary. Let the mixture cook
Boiled Crabs. ten minutes, then add the crabs and
Crabes Bouillis. let them cook ten minutes longer.
1 Dozen Fine Crabs. 1 Bunch of Celery and Never add water to this sauce, as
Celery Tops. the liquor of the tomatoes is suf-
2 Dozen Allspice. 4 Sprigs of Thj-me. ficient and makes an excellent sauce.
4 Sprigs of Sweet Basil. This is a fine fast-day dish. Serve-
4 Sprigs of Sweet Marjoram. 3 Blades of Mace. with boiled rice or potatoes boiled-
3 Bay Leaves. 4 Sprigs of Chives. whole.
A Red Pepper Pod. A Dash of Cayenne. Pried Crabs.
Black Pepper and Salt SufSclent
to Make a
Brine.
Crabes Frits.
Proceed
in the same manner as for 1 Dozen
Fine Large Crabs.
boiling shrimp. Pint of Milk. -
1
Buy fine, large 6 Tablespoontuls of Butter or Lard.
crabs. The livelier they are the Stale Bread Crumbs, Grated.
better. The crabs must be alive Thyme, Parsley, Bay Leaf, Onions.
when put into the pot. Have ready
Boil the crabs according to re-
65

clpe. Cut off the claws and crack Stuffed Crabs No. 2.
and cut the crabs into quarters as Crabes Farcis.
for stewing. Season well with pep-
per and salt. Have ready a pint of 2 Dozen large Flue Crabs.
milk. Mix pepper and salt in pro- Grated Bread Crumbs.
protions of about two teaspoonfuls Salt and Pepper. 1 Tablespoonful of Butter.

each. Have ready a pan of boiling 1 Bay Leaf. 2 Hard-Boiled Eggs.


lard and a plate of grated bread Thyme, Parsley and Onion.
crumbs. Cayenne to Taste.
Dip the crabs into the
milk and then roll in the bread Boil the crabs according to recipe.
crumbs and drop into the boiling Clean and cut and pick out all the
lard, frying about ten minutes or meat. Chop an onion fine; chop the
lentil a golden brown. Serve on a thyme, bay leaf, and parsley and
platter w^ith the claws piled in the hard-boiled eggs, and mix well with
center, the bodies of the crabs the crab meat. Season highly witli
,

grouped nicely around, and garnish hot pepper and salt to taste. Put
Tvith sprigs of parsley. This is a one tablespoonful heaping over with
delicious way of serving Hard-Shell butter into the frying pan. As it
Crabs. melts, add the onion and fry, being
careful not to burn. Then add the
crab meat, and, if desired, the very
Stuffed Crabs. small clove of a garlic, chopped very
fine. Let this fry about five min-
Crabes Farcis. utes, stirring constantly. Mix thor-
oughly, fry three minutes longer,
1 Dozen Large Fine Crabs. and then take off the stove. Stuff
1 Large Onion. 1 Clove of Garlic.
the crab shells, forming a rolling
1 Bay Leaf. 3 Sprigs of Thyme.
lump in the middle. Sprinkle light-
3 Sprigs of Parsley.
ly with grated bread crumbs, a'nd
Hot Pepper. 1- Tablesponnful of Butter.
Salt to Taste.
put a dot of butter on top. Place
in a quick oven and let them bake
1 Cup of Wet Bread.
about live minutes, or until a nice
brown. The same or even better re-
Boil the Crabs according to re-
sults are obtained by omitting the
cipe. Take off the .Are and let them egg, many claiming that the deli-
cool in their own water. When cdoI
cate flavor of the crab meat is more
crack the claws and pick out all daintily preserved without this ad-
the meat. In like manner, after hav- dition, This is a delightful way of
ing removed the uneatable portions, serving crabs for luncheons, or
pick out all the meat from the bod- where it is not necessary to make,
ies. Season well with salt and black as "the Creoles say, " a long family
pepper. Chop the onions and herbs dish."
very fine. Put a tablespoonful
of butter heaping over into the Deviled Crabs.
frying pan. As it melts, add Crabes a, le Diable.
the chopped onion, and when it
;

begins to fry, add the crab 1 Dozen


Fine Large Crabs.
meat, which has been thoroughly 2 Tablespoonfuls of Flour.
seasoned with the chopped thyme, 1 Tablespoon of Salt.

bay leaf, parsley and a dash of Ca- 1 Tablespoonful of Chopped Parsley.

yenne to taste. Let this fry and add 1 Halt Pint of Cream. Va, Nutmeg Grated.
1 Tablespoonful of Butter.
a small clove of garlic, chopped very
The Yolks of 4 Hard-Bolled Eggs.
fine, and finally add the breid, which
wet and thoroughly Salt and Cayenne to Tjiste.
has been
squeezed of all water. Mix this Boil the crabs according to recipe.
well with the ingredients in the fry- Take out and drain after they have
ing pan and let it fry about five min- cooled in their own water. Break
utes longer. Then take oft the fire off the claws, separate the shells,
and let it get cool. Take a dozen of remove the spongy portions and the
the finest and largest crab shells, or "dead man's fingers," and then pick
as many as this mixture will fill, and out the meat. Put the cream on to
wash and stuff with the mixture, boil, rub the flour and butter to-
forming it into a rolling lump. , gether well and add to the boiling
Sprinkle this with grated bread cream. Stir and cook for two min-
crumbs and put a dot of butter on utes. Take from the fire and add
top, or, better still, sprinkle with the the crab meat, the yolks of the hard-
melted butter; place in the oven and boiled eggs, mashed very fine; the
bake about five minutes, or until chopped parsley, grated nutmeg,
a nice brown. Place on a platter salt and Cayenne. Clean the upper
and garnish with sprigs of parsley shells of the crabs, fill them with
or celery tops. This is an excellent the mixture, brush over with a beat-
method of preparing stuffed crabs for en egg, sprinkle with bread crumbs
jfamily use. and put in a quick oven to brown;
66

or, better still, it you have a. frying Crab Salad.


basket, plunge the crabs into the Crabes en Salade,
boiling fat or lard until a nice
brown. But many prefer them 2 Dozen Fine Large Crabs.
baked. 12 Celery Stalks. 1 Dozen Olives.
A Mayonnaise Sauce.'
Scallepped Crabs.
Boil the crabs according to recipe.
Coquilles de Crabes. Clean and pick out all the meat.
The Meat of 1Dozen Picked Crabs. Season well with salt and pepper
A Dash of GratedNutmeg. and a dash of Cayenne. Chop the
Bread Crumbs. 1 Egg. celery fine and mix with the crab
Pepper and Salt to Taste. meat. Place on a dish in pyramidal
shape and pour over nicely a Sauce
Boil and pick the crabs according a. la Mayonnaise. (See recipe.)
to recipe given above. Beat an ess Garnish tastefully with sliced hard-
thoroijghly and add to the meat boiled eggs, sliced beets, asparagus
which has been seasoned highly with Or celery tips on top and around
Cayenne and salt to taste. Take one with sprigs of parsley and asparagus
clove of garlic, chop fine and add, tips, with sliced lemon and sliced
then sift into this mixture fine grated hard-boiled egg alternating. This ia
bread crumbs or cracker crumbs, a delicious salad.
and mix thoroughly. Beat an
egg, roll the crabs into bou- Crab Salad No. 2.
lets or graceful meat balls, and then
bind by rolling lightly in the egg. Crabes en Salade.
Roll in the bread crumbs, grated 1 Dozen Large Crabs.
nicely, and then drop into boiling 2 Tablespoon fuls of Olive Oil.
lard, and fry until a pale golden 1 Tablespoonful of French Vinegar.
brown, which will generally require 1 Saltspoonful Salt. 1 Head Lottucc.
about three minutes. The secret is Pepper and Cayenne to Taste.
to have them cooked just enough, Pick the boiled crabs carefully,
for, as a rule, they
generally
are keeping the pieces as large as pos-
overdone. Wash and clean the sible. Lay in a salad bowl. Mix a
shells thoroughly; wipe dry, sst a dressing of two tablespoonfuls of
boulet in the center of each and sweet oil, one of French vinegar,
garnish prettily with sprigs of pars- one saltspoon of salt, black pepper
ley and sliced lemon. This is a and Cayenne, according to taste, and
dainty dish for breakfast or lun-
,

pour over the crabs which have been


cheon. They must be served very cooled in the ice box. Clean the
hot. lettuce well and put a row of crisp
leaves around the edge of the salad
Crab Croquettes. dish. Garnish nicely with sliced lem-
Crabes en Croquettes. on and hard-boiled eggs sliced.
This a delightful and simple
is
1 Dozen Crabs. way that the Creoles have of mak-
) Cup of Wet Bread. Squeezed Well. ing crab salad. The above quantity
1 Onlnn. 1 Clove of Garlic. 1 Bay I^af. will serve six persons. Increase in
1 Sprig of Thj-me. 3 Sprigs of Parsley. proportion to the number to be
1 Tablespoonful of Butter. served.
Salt and Cayenne to Taste.
Boil the
Crab Pie.
crabs clean and pick.
Vol-au-Vent de Crabes.
Then season the meat well with
salt and pepper. Chop the on- 1 Dozen Large Crabs.
ion fine, also the herbs. Put a ta- Sliced Stale Bread.
blespoonful of butter in the frying Butter. Milk. Cayenne.
pan, and as it melts, add the choppel Salt.
onion. "When it begins to fry add Boil according to recipe one doz-
the crab meat which has been mixed en fine large crabs and pick out ail
thoroughly with the chopped thyme, the meat. Season nicely with salt,
bay leaf, parsley and garlic. Add Cayenne and chopped thyme and bay
a dash of Cayenne and put in the leaf. Take stale bread and s.ice
frying pan with the onion. Add very
the bread which has been thoroughly
thin. Lay in a little milk to
moisten. Butter a baking pan and
squeezed, and mix all and fry about
cover the bottom with a layer of
three minutes. Take off the fire bread. Then put in a layer of crab
and when cool form the mixture into meat and lay over at intervals slices
cylmdrical shapes of about two or of lemon cut very fine and thin. Dot
three mches in length and one in here and there with bits of but-
thickness. Hon in grated bread ter, and then spread over another
crumbs and fry in boiling lard layer of bread. Then another layer
berve hot on a dish nicely garnished
of crabs, and repeat till the meat is
with parsley and sliced lemon,
used up. Lay on top a thick sprink-

67

ling of tread .crumbs, dotted with garnishes' of sliced lemon. Serve


butter. Place in the oven and bake with "Sauce k la Tartare."
' (See
for about twenty minutes. ' Serve recipe.)
hot. Soft-shell Crabs are of too deli-
So-S1icIl Crabs. cate a flavor to be dipped in egg bat-
ter or burdened with bread crumbs.
Crabes Mous.
The soft-shell crab is greatly af- Broiled Soft-Shell Crabs.
fected by epicures, and is a dainty Crabes a. la Creole.
dish that graces the most aristocra- 1 Dozen Soft-Shell Crabs.
tic tables. 1 Pint of Milk.
The always been
soft-shell crab has 4 Tablespoonfuls of Flour, Sifted.
considered a great luxury i.i New Butter. Sliced Lemon.
Orleans, where its possibilities as a, Parsley Garnish.
most delicate and savory dish were
It was a celebrated New Orleans
f.rst discovered. Northern epicures
chef who first decided to broil the
quick to appreciate the toothsome
Soft-Shell Crab. His success was
morsel, returned to their homes loud
great and "Crabes a. la Creole" were
in their praises of this Creole dis-
covery. The soft-shell crab is now
in great demand at once at the lio-
tels and restaurants. To broil the
being shipped North, and is a popu-
Soft-Shell Crab always use the
lar feature of the Northern markets,
double wire broiler. Clean the crab
though the prices range very high. according to the method given above
It is said that the crab is so deli-
and wash in cold water. Dry with a
cate that it does not stand shipment
clean towel and season well. Season
very well; sudden stopping of the
a pint of milk with salt and black
express car often kills them; a clap
pepper, and soak the crabs in it so
of thunder will frighten them to
as to thoroughly impregnate them
death, while a sunbeam through Then pat lightly
with the milk.
glass will kill every one it shines
with a little flour and brush over
upon. The soft-shell crab is found
with melted butter. Place between
the year round in the New Orleans
the broiler and broil till a delicate
French Market. This crab is at its brown over a slow Are. It will
best when prepared according to the
generally require about flfteen min-
following Creole methods:
utes to cook thoroughly. Serve on
Fried Soft-Shell Grubs. a platter, nicely garnished with pars-
ley, sprigs and lemon cut in quar-
Crabes Mous Prites.
ters. Pour over the crabs a little
1 Dozen Soft-Shell Crabs. melted .butter and chopped parsley,
1 Quart of Milk. Bread Crumbs. and you will have a famous Creole
Salt, Pepper and Caj-enne to Taste. dish, fit for the table of a king
The greatest care must be taken in a dish served at the most aristocrat-
preparing and crab.
cleaning the ic functions.
Wash carefully, removing
sand, all CRAWFISH.
but do not scald or blanch them, as Des ficrevisses.
this destroys the fine flavor com-
pletely. Remove the spongy, fexth- Besides the famous Crawfish Bis-
ery substances under the side pjints. que (Bisque d'ficrevisses. See re-
These are called the "ma'n-eaters," cipe) the Creoles have dainty ways
and are "very irritating and indi- of serving this typical Louisiana
gestible. Remove also the sand bag shell fish. Among the most popular
or "sand pouch" from under the shells are the following;
just between the eyes; also remove
Boiled CraiTfish.
the "tablier" or "apron." Then wash
"tablier" or "apron." Then wash Des ficrevisses Bouillies.
well in cold water and dry with a 50 Cran-flsh. Gallon of Water.
1
clean towel. Take a pint of milk 1 Herb Bouquet.
and season well with pepper and Half Gallon of French Vinegar.
salt; season the crabs and crack
them in the milk, rubbing thorough- Put the water on to boil, addins
ly, so that the milk may thorough-
the chopped herb bouquet, one clove
ly impregnate them. Take out ond of garlic (chopped fine), one dozen
roll in a little sifted flour. Pat allspice and six cloves. When the
ISghtly with the hand, shake off water has boiled long enough to
superfluous flour "and fry in boiling have extracted all the juices of the
grease, being always careful to have herb bouquet, add white wine or the
sufflcient grease in the pan for the

vinegar and salt enough to
enough
make it

crabs to swim in it. When a deli- almost briny, and Cayenne


cate golden brown, take out of the to make it hot. Then throw in the
and them boil about
grease with a skimmer. Drain on crawfish let

a piece of heated brown paper, and twenty minutes or until a bright red.
serve on a bed of fried parsley, with Set them to cool in their own wa-
tor and
serve oa a platter piled Fit the goblet with celery tips and
high pyramidal shape, and gar-
in parsley tips, and hang a number oX
nish nicely with sprigs of parsley Crawfish gracefully around the gob-
and sliced lemon. Serve with salt let from the rim or outer edges.,
and pepper, oil and Chili vinegar, Continue hanging the dish with cel-
each person making the dressing as ery, asparagus and parsley tips, and
it suits his taste. hanging the Crawfish around the
edges of the fruit stand, and in and
out amid the greenery. The effect
CrnTCfish Baked ft la Creole.
of the red amid the green is very
ficrevisses Gratinges a. la Creole. pretty, presenting the appearance
of a beautiful bush of red and green.
50 Crawfish. 2 Livers. The Crawfish are served from the
^ Can of Musbrooms. bush.
2 Tablespoonfuls of Butter.
1 Bouquet of Fine Herbs. TURTLE.
The Yolks of 2 Eggs.
Salt, Pepper and Cayenne to Taste. De la Tortue.
Boil according to rlscipe fifty large In addition to the delicious soups
fine crawfish. "When cooked, allow already given, the Creoles serve tur-
them to cool in their own water. tle after the following manner.
Clean them, picking oft the shells
and leaving the crawfish whole. Take Green Turtle Steaks.
out all the smallest ones, and cut Filets de Tortue.
oil the tail ends of the largest ami
place with the small ones; take the 2 Pounds of Turtle Steaks.
2 Tablespoonfuls of Butter.
remainder of the large crawfish and
Salt and Pepper to Taste. Sliced Lemon ana
cut up, and make a dressing with twj
Parsley to Garnish.
chopped livers, parsley, the minceJ Curi'ant Jelly Sauce or Sauce Poivrade.
contents of one-halt can of mush-
rooms, the bouquet of fine herbs Select the female turtle, as the
consisting of thyme, bay leaf, sweet meat is best. If bought alive from
marjoram, etc.; chop a half dozen the market, clean according to re-
shallots and add to the dressing, cipe. (See recipe for cleaning tur-
and season highly with Cayenne and tle. Otherwise the butcher may
salt and black pepper to taste. Cut prepare it as is frequently done in
up the yolks of two eggs and mix the New Orleans market.)
with a cup of the soft portion Oi' Turtle meat is very irregular,
bread, which has been wet and therefore cut the meat into thick
thoroughly squeezed of all water. slices or steaks, about the size of a
Place two tablespoonfuls of butter filet of beef, and batter down with
in a frying pan and add the dress. ng the hands to make smooth and regu-
when it begins to heat; cook about lar. Then fry In butter. Season
ten minutes and then place sin the well with salt and pepper and gar-
dish in which the crawfish are to nish with parsley and lemon, and
te served, making- a bed of the dress- serve w4th Currant Jelly Sauce or
ing. Arrange with symmetry and the delightful Sauce Poivrade. (See
grace the reserve crawfish upon this recipes.)
bed, cover lightly with the rest of
the stuffing, and dot with small bits
of
Stewed Turtle.
butter, after sprinkling with
grated bread crumbs. Pour over all Ragoat de Tortue a la Bourgeoise.
a Cream Sauce and the juice of a
lemon. Place in the oven and let it 2 Pounds of Turtle Meat. 1 Onion.
bake about ten or fifteen minutes, 1 Tablespoonful of Butter or Lard.
and serve with Cream Sauce, sea- 1 Tablespoonful of Flour.
soned with lemon juice. (See re- 1 Bay Leaf. 1 Clove of Garlic. 1 Sprig of
cipe Cream Sauce.) Thyme.
1 Cup of Water.
A Crawfish Busli.
A Wineglassfnl of Sherry or Madeira.
Buisson d';crevisses. Cut the meat of the turtle about
an inch in size. Chop an onion and
100 Fine Crawfish. Celery Tips. put all into a saucepan, with a ta-
Asparagus Tips. Parsley Tips. blespoonful of lard to brown. As it
This begins to brown, add a tablespoonful
a celebrated Creole hors
is
d'oeuvre, of flour, one bay leaf, one clove of
as also a very handsome
garlic, and a sprig of thyme, chopped
and graceful table garnish. Boil
the Crawfish according to recipe very fine. Mix this thoroughly witli
(See recipe.) Take a glass fruit or the turtle meat, then add a wine-
cake stand and place in the center glassful of Sherry or Madeira, and a
of the table. Set a, goblet upon it. cup of watef, and cook for half an
hour.
CHAPTER XI.

SALT AND CANNED FISH.

Poissons Salfis.

Halibut, Salmon, Fresh Codfish, I erably celery salt; let it boil up


Fresh Lobster, Shad and other fish once and serve with the boiled Cod-
peculiar to the Northern and Eastern fish. Egg Sauce (see recipe) may
waters are rarely seen on New Or- also be used with Boiled Codfish,
leans tables, except in the great ho- but is not to be compared to the
tels and restaurants, which import Oyster Sauce.
them. With these fish, in their fresh
state, this book will not treat. But
^
Fried Codllsh.
the Salt Codfish, Salted Mackerel and La Morue Frite.
Canned Salmon are in general fam-
Codfish. 1 Pint of Milk.
ily use. The Salted Mackerel and
Codfish, indeed, enter very largely 1 Egg. 1 Cup of Crumbs.
Grated Bread
Salt and Pepper to Taste.
into the daily household economy
Parsley and Lemon to Garnish.
of New Orleans, especially on fast
days, as also sardines. The follow- Soak the Codfish overnight, and
ing recipes are modeled after Cre- boil twenty minutes, or until very
ole methods of preparation: tender; take out and cut into slices
of one-inch thickness, and dry with
CODFISH. a clean towel; have ready a pint of
'
Salted Codfisb. milk, and season well with pepper
only; season the Codfish, rubbing a
De la Morue. little black pepper to taste and a
First, and aboveall, it is neces- dash of Cayenne over it. Soak the
'

sary to "dessaler la Morue," as the fish in the milk, and have ready
Creoles put it, or to remove every some crushed bread crumbs and a
trace and appearance of the salt in well-beaten egg; when the fish is
which the fish has been put up. Al- well soaked, take out of the milk,
ways soak the codfish at least over- and dip each slice first into the egg,
night or twenty-four hours before and then roll in bread crumbs, pat-
using in cold ivater, changing the ting lightly, and drop in to the boil-
water as often as possible, to assist ing lard; the fish must swim in the
in removing the salt; and always lard. When fried a golden brown,
boil ori a hot fire fifteen or twenty take out with a skimmer, drain oft
minutes before making into any of all fat, and serve hot on a bed of
the following dishes: fried parsley, garnished with sliced
lemon.
Boiled Codflsli.
Stewed Codfish.
La Morue Bouillie.
Morue Sautge a. la Lyonnaise.
Codfish. 3 Dozen Oysters.
1 Tablespoonful of Butter. 1 Tablespoonful 1 Dozen Small Potatoes, or Left-Ovcr.
of Flonr. Salt Cod, Enough for Six Persons. .

2 Gills of Fresli Cream or Milk. 1 Quart of Milk. 1 Dozen White Onions.


The Oyster Water. 3 Tablespoonfuls of Butter.
Salt and Pepper to Taste. 1 Tablespoonful of Flour Blended With Two
A Dash of Cayenne. of Milk.
Boil the Codfish about thirty or If the potatoes are not the left-
forty minutes, after soaking over- over from the day before, wash and
night; drain and serve with an Oys- peel, and also the onion; boil the po-
ter Sauce, or Sauce aux Hultres, pre- tatoes till tender; soak the fish over-
pared as follows: Make a Cream night, and boil for twenty minutes,
Sauce (See recipe), only use, in this or until tender. Then cut the fish
case, the strained juice of the oyster into pieces of about two or three
to blend the flour and butter, and inches in length. Put a tablespoon-
add the rich cream or milk to make ful of lard in the stewpan and lay In
up the desired quantity, using al- the potatoes and then the onions,
ways good judgment. Scald the oys- and the Codfish on top; add enough
ters in their own water about three cold water to cover the whole, and
minutes, and then add to the sauce, let it simmer until the fish Is well
mixing thoroughly, seasoning with cooked. Then take out the fish, and
pepper and Cayenne, using pref-
salt, allow the potatoes and onions- to sim-
70

mer on. piece ot bone


Remove every brown paper, and then serve ho:
from the and tyim edges nicely.
fish,
on a dish garnished with sprigs ot
saucepan and dissolve parsley. This quantity will make
Take another
in another stewpan the butter and
about a dozen and a half balls or
croquettes. There is no difference
flour, as directed above; let this sim-
mer gently without browning-, and between the preparation of the Cod-
fish Ball and the Codfish Croquette,
then put in the potatoes, onions and
fish in the order given above; pour
the only difference being in tne-iorm
over this the quart of cream or milk; of molding, the croquette being oval
or elongated, in cylindrical shapes,
let it simmer for about ten minutes
and the ball being molded round and
more till the milk comes to a boil,
and serve hot. a little flattened on top.

Creamed Co^Jsh. Codjisli Dacalao,


Morue la CrSme.
a,
Baealao 4 la Vizcaina.
3 Cups of Picked Codflsli.
1 Pint and a Half of Cream. 1 Pound of Salted Codfish.
TLe Yolk of 1 Egg. 1 Large Onion, Chopiied Fine.
1 Pint ot Rich Tomato Sauce.
Soak the overnight, and
codfish
2 Cloves of Garlic, Chopped Fine. Croutons,
then about forty minutes.
let it boil
1 Ued Pepper.
Then take off scald again and drain, 2 Tablespoonfuls ot Olive Oil.
and again scald and drain, allowing Pi'pper to Taste. 6 Tomatoes.
it to stand each time about four or Thyme. Bay Leaf. Parsley.
five minutes before changing the wa-
ter. Put one large tablespoonful of Soak the Codfish well overnight,
butter in the frying pan; when
melted add the flour and blend, and in the morning boil for about
then add the forty-five minutes, until very ten-
without browning;
milk, stirring constantly until it
der. Wlien you set it to boil, put
the fish cold water. After
first in
boils, and then add the fish, sea-
it has boiled, scald again thorough-
soning higlily with pepper and Ca-
ly, and pick out all the bones and
yenne. Let it boil about ten min-
utes longer, and take off tlie fire; set away to cool. Then prepare a
then add the yolk, of an egg which rich Tomato Sauce, according to the
has been beaten thoroughly, and following directions: Take six
serve hot, with plain boiled potatoes large fresh tomatoes, or a half can
buttered. of tomatoes, and add a heaping ta-
blespoonful of butter, four sprigs
Codflsh Balls. of parsley, thyme and two bay
Croquettes de Morue. leaves, all chopped very fine; add
two chopped onions and a clove of
2Cups ot Picked Codfish. garlic, chopped fine, and which has
2 Cups of Mashed Potatoes.
been fried in a little butter. Set
^ Cup of Cream. the saucepan, with the sauce, into
Bretd Crumbs. 2 Beaten Eggs.
boiling water, and add pepper and
Pepper and Cayenne to Taste,
Cayenne and a pinch of salt to taste.
Soak the Codfish overnight and Stew very gently for about two
boil until tenjier. Pour off this wa- hours or longer, it necessary. Then
ter, and scald again with hot wa- strain the sauce and make a rou.K
ter; pick fine, scald again and then with one tablespoonful ot butter
drain thoroughl'y, pressing out all and two of flour; stir and let it
the water. Mash the potatoes, and brown lightly, and stir in the sauce.
melt about three 'tablespoonfuls of Boil about tour minutes longer un-
butter and mix well in the potatoes. til rich and thick. Then fry the
Then add the Codfish and mix thor- remaining large onion and clove of
oughly, seasoning with about a tea- garlic, chopped very fine, in a gill
spOontul of black pepper, and a dash of olive oil, or two tablespoonfuls of
of Cayenne to taste. Add this to butter it the taste of the oil is dis-
the cream, and again mix. Mold tha liked, and when it browns add this
Codfish info round or oval balls: to the sauce and a red sweet pep-
then roll in the egg, which has been per, finely chopped. Cut about a doz-
well beaten, and pass through the en Crotitons. In dice or diamond
bread crumbs, patting gently, and shapes, from the soft part ot the
lay them in a frying basket, it you bread, and try in boiling lard. Heat
have one, and sink into the boiling a dish, put the Codfish into it, pour
lard. Otherwise drop Into the boil- over the Tomato Sauce, border the
in^ lard, having tested the heat with dish with the fried CroQtons, and
a bit of bread. The balls must swim set in the oven, allowing it tobake
in the lard. When a golden brown, ten or minutes longer. The
fifteen,
lift out the basket, or skim out the Spanish red peppers are the best tor
balls with a skimmer; drain well of this sauce. Black pepper may be
all the fat by laying on a heated added if desired.
71

SALT MACKBREIL. heads of young lettuce. Make a bed


Du Maquereau. of the crisp hearts of the leaves, and
tear the other leaves into small
Salt Mackerel is either boiled or pieces with a fork, making very del-
broiled, and either mechod of cook- icate shreds. Drain the oil from the
ing according to the subjoined re- can of Salmon, and separate the fish
cipes makes a most palatable and into flakes. Take a cupful of boil-
delicately toothsome dish. ing milk and a tablespoonful of but-
Boilsd Salt Mackerel. ter and two of flour, and Stir over
the flre until quite smooth. Add to
Maquereau Bouilli.
this a tablespoonful of chopped pars-
2 Salt Mackerel. ley and the Salmon. Season with
2 Tablespoonfuls of Butter. pepper and salt, and let itcook about
Chopped Parsley and Sliced Lemou to Garnish. ten minutes. Set away to cool, and
Soak the Mackerel overnight, and then place on the bed of lettuce
in the morning take out o( the wa- leaves. Cover with a Sauce a la
ter, washthoroughly, taking off Mayonnaise (see recipe), and gar-
every portion of salt, and wash nish nicely with sliced hard-boiled
again. Have ready a deep pan of eggs, celery tips, etc., and serve.
boiling water; place the Mackerel Salmon Salad.
within and let it boil ten or fifteen
minutes until done, which can be Saumon en Salade.
known by the flesh beginning to Can of Salmon.
1
part from the bones. Serve whole 1-3 the Quantity of Chopped Celery.
on a platter garnished with parsley. 2 Hard-Boiled Kggs.
Pour over the Mackerel melted but- Sliced Lemon. Olives. 1 Pickled Beet.
ter and chopped parsley, and bring A Plain French Dressing.
to the table very hot. Canned Salmon may be made into
Mackerel boiled or broiled is a
a delighful salad for luncheon or
very nice breakfast dish on fast supper. Flake the salmon, heap into
days. Serve with potatoes, boiled a salad bowl, and mix with chopped
whole or made into croquettes. celery, using one-third of the latter
Broiled Mackerel. in proportion to the quantity of
Maquereau GrillS. salmon. Add a Plain French Dress-
ing. (See recipe.) "When ready to
2 Salt Mackerel. 1 Cup of Milk. serve, turn into a salad dish,
on
2 Tablespoonfuls of Butter, or a Cream Sauce. which you have arranged a crisp
Sliced Lemon, Olives and Parsley Sprigs bed of lettuce. Garnish with sliced
to Garnish. lemon, olives and hard-boiled eggs,
Soak the Mackerel and wash thor- and with one daintily sliced pickled
oughly as directed above, only us- beet.
ing boiling water. Have ready some HERRINGS. j
milk, seasoned well with black pep-
per and soak the Mackerel in the
Des Harengs.
milk until thoroughly impregnated. The Salted Herrings, such as come
Take out and wipe dry with a towel. to New Orleans, must first of all be
Then dredge the Mackerel with but- soaked thoroughly overnight, or
ter, and place between a double longer, to take away all salt. Then
broiler, over a slow Are, broiling they are cleaned nicely and broiled
about fifteen or twenty minutes, th3 and served with a cream sauce or
under side being allowed to broil the
drawn butter sauce, preferablyfilets
first. When done, take off and pour former. They are also cut into
over melted butter and chopped pars- and eaten without further cooking
ley; garnish the dish with sprigs of or "Crfl," as we say here, and
also
parsley, sliced lemons and olives, as an hors d'oeuvre.
and serve hot. A Cream Sauce may
be also served instead of the but-
ANCHOVY.
ter, and makes a very delicious dish. Des Anchois.
SAIiMOjV. Anchovies are served as a prelimi-
Mayonnaise de Saumon. din-
nary to the most aristocraticwhich
1 Can of Salmon. 2 Heads of Crisp Lettuce. ners, being drained of the oil.
clings to them after being
taken
1 Cup of Milk.
1 Tablespoonful of Butter. 2 Tablespoonfuls from the can. Three or four anch-
Flour.
of ovies are then placed between deli-
1 Tablespoonful of Chopped Parsley. cate soda biscuit, and tied
with a
with a
Salt and Pepper to Taste. bit of ribbon in squares,
Sauce a la Mayonnaise. dainty bow cut short in the center.
of Salmon is a very The very pretty. The anch-
A Mayonnaise effect is
be-
good luncheon dish, and is frequently ovies are also mashed and placed
served in New Orleans. To one can tween the crackers, like a sandwich
elegant.
of Salmon allow two good sized Either way is excellent and
72

Ancliovy Salad. crisp lettuce,or of chopped water-


cress. Surround with a border of
Salade d'Anchois. chopped whites of eggs and a simi-
lar border of chopped watercresses,
This salad is a dainty disli for and pour over all a sour French
Dressing. (See recipe.) Ancho-
lunclieon or supper. Have an oval
dish and arrange the anchovies, vies are used as an elegant hors
drained of oil, crosswise on a bed of d'oeuvre.

CHAPTER XII.

MEATS.

Des Viandes.

Meats are, of course, common to grain and good red color. The fatty
every clime and country, but not part should be a yellowish white,
every people have the palatable and for, when very yellow the meat is
appetizing methods of preparation seldom of the best. Beef in which
that have been handed down to the the fat is hard and skinny and the
Creoles of Louisiana by their French lean meat a deep red, with coarse
and Spanish ancestors and so modi- fibers, of an
is inferior quality;
fied and improved upon that it may when meat is old, it can be told
the
be said that they have created a new by a line of horny textures running
school of cookery In the choice through the meat of the ribs. The
preparation and serving of beef, lean on the cut surface shoilld show
veal, mutton, pork and venison. Our a deep purplish red tint, and the
"roties," or roasts, our methods of beef should be marbled with fat,
broiling, our delightful "ragouts," which shows the animals have been
our famous "grillades," our unique well fed.
"daubes," in a word, our dozen and In Mutton the cut surface should
one highly nutritious and eminently have the same purplish tint, but
agreeable combinations of meats, should be quite even in hue through-
with vegetables, and our unequaled out. The color of the muscle should
manner of seasoning, have given to be neither too pale nor too dark. If
the Creole kitchen a fame that has pale and moist, indicates that the
it
been as lasting as well deserved. animal was young or diseased; and
The Creoles have discovered that if dark and livid, it shows that In
almost any portion of the beef from all probability the animal was
the head to the tail may be deli-
slaughtered but died with the blood
,
cately and temptingly prepared, so
in it. Both muscle and fat should
as to please even the most fastidious
be elastic yet firm to the touch, not
palates. They have reduced the sci- moist or sodden, and the fat should
ence of cooking meats to a practical
be free from blood specks.
system that works the most benefi- While the raw fat of beef should
homes of the poor,
cial effects in the
be of a light yellow color,, like that
and which enables the family of
of suet, the fat of mutton should be
moderate means to live not only eco-
white. The quality of meat depends
nomically, but with as much real
la;rgely upon the free intermixture
ease and luxury, even as the wealthy
of streaks of fat with muscular fiber.
classes.
The muscular fibers should not be
The secret of cooking meat proper- large or coarse,' nor should there be
ly, of course, lies much in the sea- any gummy or purple-looking fluid
soning- and the relative time ot cook- in the cellular tissues. The surface
ing different varieties; but much in- of good meat should be perfectly
deed, everything depends upon the dry, and even the cut surface should
choice of the meat. The following scarcely wet the finger.
Guides In Cliooslng Meat The muscular fiber of beef in poor
condition or wasting from disease
are given, so that the housekeeper is pale in color, and a quantity of
may make no mistake in this impor- watery fat of bad colCr is mixed
tant choice of the quality of meat up with it. The meat itself is wet,
which she selects for her family: fiabby and inelastic and pits when
Beef, when young, has a fine, open the point of the finger is pressed
agLthst it: Such meat, it need hard- The best veal is very firm and of a
ly be said, is unfit (or human food. pinkish white. Never purchase veal
The odor of good meat should be that has a bluish tinge. The veal
slight and not by any means disa- should not be less than six weeks
greeable. An unpleasant odor indi- old, nor more than six months. The
cates that putrefaction has begun best season for veal is from April to
or that the meat is diseased. A very October; from that time till the next
good plan to detect any unpleasant- April the meat is not very good and
ness of odor is to thrust a clean knife generally stringy. Like all young
into the flesh. If any disagreeable meats it spoils very quickly, espe-
odor clings, the meat is unfit for cially in our climate. "Veal should
use. always be well cooked. It furnishes
The internal parts, that are so gen- an endelss variety of dishes.
erally used in cooking, such as the Mutton is divided into the fore
heart, liver, kidneys, sweetbreads, and hind quarters, and these are
should have no unpleasant smell and subdivided into the leg and the loin.
must be free from spots of conges- The fore quarter is subdivided into
tion or bruises. As these parts de- the shoulder, breast and neck. A
compose much more rapidly than the saddle of mutton is two loins. The
flesh of the carcass, they should not fatter the mutton the more tender
be kept long before being cooked, the lean parts, but the mutton must
and, when cooked, should not be sub- never be overgrown nor over-fat. The
jected to a very strong or prolonged leg, shoulder and loins of mutton
heat, because it makes them hard make nice roasting pieces. The
and indigestible. breast and neck are good for soups
The amount of bone in meat varies and stews. The loins are also cut
considerably, but, on the average, it into French chops and loin chops.
is not less than 8 per cent. Iii shins Pork, in every form, is indiges-
and legs of beef, it amounts to one- tible, and should never be eaten by
third, and sometimes to one-half the persons of weak digestion, by young
total weight, while in the neck and children, nor by the old and feeble.
brisket it amounts to about 10 per In New Orleans it should only be
cent. The most economical parts eaten between December and April,
are the round and thick flank, then when the weather is very cold; never
the. sticking pieee and- brisket, and in summer or late spring and au-
lastly the leg. In mutton and pork tumn. Pork should always be thor-
the leg is the most profitable, and oughly cooked. In selecting pork
then the shoulder. be guided by the grain of the meat.
Sheep heads make excellent broth, It should always be of a fine grain
and ox tail a veiy good soup, but and the skin smooth. The lean must
both require longer time to extract be of a pale red color, the fat white
the nutriment wholly. If boiled for and the skin smooth and clear. If
eight hours, the head of the ox will the flesh is soft, and if the fat is of
yield about one fourth of its weight a yellowish white, or full of small
in gelatine, and the cheek will fur- kernels, reject the meat, as it is sure-
nish nearly four pounds of good ly diseased and unfit for food.
meat. Shins of beef malfa excellent Pork is divided into the leg, shoul-
soup, but, like the ox head, require der, the chine, the spare ribs, mid-
long-er boiling; Even bones, when dlings, head and feet. The best parts
stripped of the meat, contain a con- for roasting are the loins and legs.
siderable amount of fat and nitro- But the nicest roast is always the
genous matter, so that six pounds sucking pig or "cochon de lait," as
of bones, when broken up and boiled the Creoles call it. The sucking pig
for nine hours, will yield an amount should be no more than four or five
of nitrogen equal to that contained weeks old and not less, and should
in a pound of meat and twice as much always be roasted the day after it
fat. The old Creole cooks always is killed.
ask the butcher to throw in some
Bacon differs from ha,m and meat
bones (cracked) when they purchase
meat for soup. in the relatively large proportions
Mutton must be chosen for the of fat and the small proportion of
firmness and fineness of the grain, water. It Is a great favorite with all
its color and the firm, white fat. classes on account of its fiavor. its
Good mutton is generally small. facilities for cooking, the many com-
Lamb that has been killed too binations into which it enters in
long can be detected by examination preparation of delicate dishes, and
If these because easily kept and always
it is
of the veins on the neck.
handy.- As is rich in carbona-
are bluish, then the meat is fresh;, it

if greenish, the meat is stale. In ceous food, it forms a suitable ad-


the hind quarter the point to exam- junct to substances which are rich
ine is the knuckle, which is not firm rabbits, eggs, beans, peas, cabbage,
turnips and lentils. Its flivoring
when the meat is not perfectly fresh.
74

qualities can make a dish of the otherwise allow twenty minutes. But
homeliest vegetables palatable as the Creoles always roast beef rare.
well as nutritious. To ascertain the desired state, occa-
With these suggestions as to sionally stick a needle into the beef.
choosing meat and the relative value If the blood spurts up, the meat is
of food properties they contain, the ready to serve, and, cooked to this
Picayune vi'ill lay down the following point, is a most nutritious dish.
Watch carefully and do not let it
UnfailingRule Which the Creoles pass this stage. Serve on a dish in
Follow its own gravy. The practice of
in cooking meats; making a gravy of flour, etc., for
Always remember that Beef and roast beef is condemned by the best
Mutton must be cooked rare, and ethics of Creole cookery.
Pork and Veal well done. PUct of Beef I..arded.
Beet should always be roasted, Filet de Boeuf PiquS.
broiled or smothered.
1 Filet of Beef.
Mutton may be roasted, broiled Lard Sufflcient to Lard Thoroughly.
boiled or stewed.
1 Small Onloa. 1 Bay Leaf.
Veal may be roasted, stewed, 4 Cloves, if desired.
smothered or fried, when cut into I'A Tablespoonfuls of Butter.
chops. 1 Tablespoonful of Glace. (See receipt.)
Pork is always roasted or fried. 1 Glass of Madeira or Sherry Wine (or Water).
Ham is broiled, boiled or fried. Salt and Pepper to Taste.
Bacon is broiled, fried or boiled, Trim the filet nicely, removing the
the latter when cooked with ve.ge-
outer muscular skin. Lard the fllet
tables.
well, using larding needles. The lard
Venison is roasted or made into must be very thin, like a shoestring.
"ragout," like Beef a. la Mode, and The larding is done by filling the
the cutlets are broiled. The meat needles with the lard and pushing
of venison should be of fine grain
and well covered with fat. If the
them through the filet as far as
they will go. If the needles are
venison is very young, the hoofs are long enough, thej' will come out on
but slightly opened; if old, the hoofs llie other side of the filet, leaving the
stand wide apart. lard within. Repeat this process all
With this preliminary the Pica- down the center and along the sides
yune will now present the various -of 'the fllet, about an inch apart, and
Creole forms of preparing meats. have the rows neat and even. If
you have not a larding needle, make
BEEF. incisions with a knife, and push the
Du Boeuf. lard in with your finger, but the fllet
Roast Beef. is never as Juicy and tender, nor
Boeuf Roti. does it look so clean and even when
The first four ribs of the beef are baked. When well larded, dredge
always the best for a roast. The well with salt and pepper, rubbing
tenderloin lies here, and two good this thoroughly into the beef.. Cut up
ribs or a "full cut," as the butchers one small onion, one bay leaf, and
term it, should be enough to mak2 mash four cloves, and place in the
a fine roast for a family of six. Al- bottom of the baking pan. Lay the
ways remember that if the roast larded filet on this bed, the larded
IS cut too thin, the Juices dry too side being uppermost. Put small
rapidly and the exquisite flavor is bits of butter equal to a half table-
gone. After the ribs come the sir- spoonful on top, and bake in a quick
loin and the spine bone as seconl- oven thirty minutes. This dish is
and third choice. Have the butcher always' eaten rare. To ascertain If
skewer the roast so that it will sufliciently done, stick a fork into the
have a nice shape when it comes on fllet; if the blood bubbles out, it is
the table and will retain all the ready to serve. The meat when done
Juice of the beef. Leave the bones is always spongy and elastic to the
in the -roast, as the meat will be far touch.
sweeter than when taken out. Rub In the meantime, prepare the fol-
the meat well with salt and p.epper lowing brown sauce: Take one ta-
dredge slightly with lard arid set blespoonful of butter and one of
in a hot oven. The heat of the oven Glace (see recipe under chapter
at once coagulates the blood and
-
"Sauces for Meats, Fish, etc."), and
prevents it from escaping, thus ren- three of water; rub smoothly and
dering the meat nutritious. Every melt in a saucepan, stirring con-
now and then baste the beef with stantly to prevent burning. When
Its own Juices and let it cook brown, add one glass of Madeira or
add- Sherry wine and add a half cup of
ing ho water, as suflieient fat runs
from the beef to baste with. Allow water. Season well with salt and
fifteen minutes to every pound pepper. Pour over the filet, which
of must be placed in a hot dish, and
meat if one likes the meat rare
serve.
75

Fllet of Beef linrilecl WltU Mush- Steak," is unquestionably the best


roonia. for broiling. The next in order is the
sirloin, where there are always choice
Filet de Boeuf PiquS aux Cham- cuts, but the entire sirloin is not
pignons. profitable for broiling and the coarse
ends may be used in making stews,
1 Filet of Beef.
gumbos, etc. The rib steak is very-
^ Can of Mushrooms.
nutritious, as also the round, but the
Salt and Pepper to Taste.
Creoles never broil these. There is
Trim and lard the beef according an art in broiling a beefsteak proper-
to the directions given in the above ly, and the Creoles have certainly at-
recipe, and balce in the same man- tained this in its perfection. The

ner rare. When it has cooked for broiler in a well-regulated house-
hold is always put on a furnace ot
a half hour In a quick oven, it vifill
be done. Then make a sauce as fol- hot charcoals in preference to the
lows: Take one tablespoonful of but- open front of the stove. The coals
ter and one of Glace and three of not only render the meat free from
water; melt the butter and add the any deleterious effects, should, by
Glace, browning nicely without burn- chance, the meat not be from a per-
ing, and stirring constantly. When fectly healthy animal, but the broil-
brown 'add one glass of Madeira or, ing over the coals gives the meat a
Sherry wine, if desired, and one-half flavor one vainly seeks otherwise.
pint of water. Season well with salt Dredge the meat well witli salt and
and pepper. Then add a half can of pepper and then brush lightly with
mushrooms, chopped very fine. Stir butter. Place it on the hot gridiron
well and let it boil about ten min- and let it 'broil quickly for four min-
utes, so as not to be too thick nor utes; then turn on the other side fur
yet too thin. The intelligent cook four minutes longer. When done take
will judge by tasting to see that it off, place in a hot dish, butter nicely
is seasoned properly. Place the fllet and sprinkle chopped parsley over,
in a hot dish and pour the sauce over and the juice of a lemon, and serve
and serve hot. immediately. The great secret of
good broiling lies in the proper fire,
Fllet of Beef With Truffles. the clean broiler, the right length, of
time, the quality of the steak, which
Filet de Boeuf PiquS aux Trutfes ou should never be tough, and lastly and
a. la PSrigeux. not the least important of all, eating
the steak directly after it comes from
1 Fllet of Beet. Vs, Can of Truffles.
the coals.
J6 Glass of Sherry. 1 Pint of Broth or Water.
Salt and Pepper to Taste.
Proceed in the same manner as in
the preparation of Filet of Beef Smothered Beefsteak,
Larded. When it has baked for a
half hour, make a sauce as follows: Filet BraisS.
One tablespoonful of butter in a
saucepan; add two tablespoonfuls of Braising or smothering meat is a
Glace (see recipe under chapter mode of cooking little understood by
"Sauces for Meats, Fish, etc.") and the Americans, but which has been
add a half wineglass of Sherry and brought by the Creoles" to a high
one pint of broth or water. Let it state of perfection. By this pro-
boil slowly for ten minutes, ani add cess the meat is just covered and no
one-half can of truffles, chopped very more, with a little water, or with a
fine, if a, if aux truftes,
la Pgrigeux; strong broth made from animal stock
cut in Let.thesauce boil slowly
dice..
or the juices of vegetables. The pot
is covered- with a closely-fitting lid
twenty minutes longer, and then pour
over the fllet, serving hot. and is put on a slow flre and allowed
Truffles are always an expensive to simmer slowly for two or three
dish and quite above the means of hours, just short of the boiling
the great majority of people. Ths point. By this slow process of cook-
ing, tough meats are rendered juicy,
dish should never be attempted by a
family who wishes to live economi- tender and very agreeable to the
cally.
palate, while the covered pot enables
the 'meat to retain all its flavor.
Broiled Beefetcak. The great secret in smothering
Filet de Boeuf GrillS. meat is to let it cook very slowly,
simmering, however, all the time,
3 Pounds of Steak for Broiling Purf>oscs. so that the heat may thoroughly
1 TahlesDoonful ot Butter. The Juice of penetrate and render tender and
1 Lemon.
juicy the coarse fiber of the meat.
Chopped Parsley and Lettuce Leaves When tender, put the beefsteak into
to Garnish. a platter, cover with the onions and
Salt and Pepper to Taste. gravy, and you will have a delicious
The cut known as the "Porterhouse and delicately flavored dish.
70

Filet of Beef "W'ltli Tomatoes.


Ueefsteak Smothered in Onions.
Filet de Boeut BraisS aux Tomates.
Filet BraisS aux Ognons.
1. Filet of Beef. 1 Tablespoonful of Lard.
3 Pounds of Round Steak. C Onions, sliced fine. 1 Clove of Garlic.
6 Onions, sliced fine. 1 Tablespooutul of Lavd. 1 Tablespoonful of Flonr.
1 Tablespoontal of Tlour. 2 Sprigs each of Thyme and Bay Leaf.
2 Tablespoonfuls of Vinegar. 3 Sprigs of Parsley.
2 Sprigs each of Tli.vme and Bay Leaf.
H Sprigs of Parsley.
% Can of Tomatoes or G Large Fresh Ones.
Pint of Hot Water.
1
1 Clove ot Garlic.
Pepper and Cayenne to Taste.
Salt,
1 Pint of Water.
Smother the filet in exactly the
Pepper and Salt to Taste.
same manner as already described.
Beat the round steak well with the
When cooked for about a halt hour,
add one-half can of tomatoes and
rolling- pin or steak hammer; CTit their Juice, or six large fresh toma-
off the outer skin and- press the mea-t toes sliced in their juice. Let the
back into shape. Place the tahle-
m^ixture simm.er for an hour and a
spoonful of lard in the deep frying half longer, season well and serve,
pan and let it melt. Then lay in the pouring the gravy over the filet.
sliced onions, and over these the
beefsteak, which has been well sea- Filet of Beef Wltli Stuffed Tomatoes.
soned with salt and pepper and
dredgred with the flour. Cover close- Filet BraisS aux Tomates Farcies.
ly. simmer over a hot fire for
Let it 1 Filet of Be6f.
a few minutes anl then turn the 1 Dozen Uniform-Sized Tomatoes.
steak on the other After three
side. 1 Cup of Mushrooms. 1 Clove of Garlic.
rrinutes, add two tablespoonfuls of % Cup of Stale Bread Crumbs.
vinegar, chopped parsley, thyme and 1 Tablespoonful of Butter.
bay leaf and a clove of garlic. Turn Salt and Cayenne to Taste.
the steak, letting the flour brown Smother the filet according to the
well, and keep the pot closely cov-
directions given above, adding two
ered. When brown pour over one cup chopped tomatoes to the sauce. Take
of water, or a pint, which will be
the tomatoes an-d cut off the stem
sufBcient to cover the meat. Bring
end, scoop out the soft inside, being
this to a brisk boil and set the pot
careful to retain the skins in proper
back where it can simmer gently for shape. Then take a half cup of
about t^vo hours.
Filets of beef may be smothered in
mushrooms, one-half cup ot stale
bread crumbs, whi.ch have been wet
the same manner, only these will re-
quire no beating with the steak ham-
and squeezed, one clove ot garlic,
mer. chopped very fine, and one grated on-
ion, a sprig ot chopped parsley. Chop
Ftlct of Beef Smolhered Witli the mushrooms fine, place a table-
spoonful ot butter into a trying pan,
mushroom^ or Truffles. and, when melted, add the bread
crumbs which have been seasoned
Filet de Boeuf Brais6 aux Champign- with salt and pepper and Cayenne,
ons, ou aux Truffes.
and mixed thoroughly Tvith the
1 Filet of Beef. chopped onion or garlic and the par-
1 Can of Mushrooms or % Can of Trufflea. sley. When these begin to fry, add
G Onions, sliced fine. the chopped mushrooms, stirring
1 Tablespoonful of Lard.
constantly for about five or eight
1 Tablespoonful of Flonr.
minutes. Serve with Stuffed Toma-
2 Sprigs each of Thyme and Bay Leaf.
toes (see recipe.)
1 Clove of Garlic.
1 Pint of Hot Water. Beef a la Mode.
Salt,' Pepper and Cayenne to Taste.
Daube.
Smother the beef, using a filet for 5 Pounds of the Uump or thft Round of the
this delicious dish according to the Beef.
recipe given for Smothered Beefsteak. 44 Pound of Salt Fat.
After it has cooked about a half hour Large Onions. 2 Turnips. 5 Carrots.
add one can of mushrooms and let 1 Tablespoonful of Lard.
it continue to simmer gently for an 1 Clove ot Garlic.
hour and a half longer. When ready 1 Glass of Sherry, Madeira or Claret (It
to serve, add, if possible, a gill or a Desired.)
small wineglass of Sherry or White Salt, Pepper and Cayenne to Taste.
Wine; boil ten minutes longer. Put 2 Bay Leaves.
the filet in a dish, place the mush- Sprigs of Thyme and Parsley.
rooms over and around as a garnish, Cut the tat ot the salt meat into
pour over the sauce and serve. thin shreds. Chop the onion and bay
If truffles are. used instead ot the leaf very fine, as also the garlic,
mushrooms, add one-halt can and thyme and cloves. Rub the shreds
proceed in exactly the same manner well with s^lt and pepper. Take
as when using the mushrooms. the rump of beef and lard thickly by
making- incisions about tliree or four In the meantime, in another pot,
inches in lengtli and inserting the place a veal
steak of about two
pieces of salt fat and spices, onion pounds,
and tliyme and garlic, mixed thpr- and two pigs' feet. Sea-
'

son well with salt and pepper and


ougiily. Take two large onions and Cayenne, and cover well with four
cut into quarters and put in a sauce- quarts of water, and let them boil.
pan with one tablespoonful of lard. Add one bay leaf, one sprig of
Let the slices brown and then lay thyme, one-half clove of garlic and
on top the rump of beef, well lardeJ. one onion, all minced very fine, ana
Cover closely and let it simmer very two cloves mashed into almost a
slowly till well browned. Then add jelly, and one glass of Sherry or Ma-
the chopped bay leaf and parsley. deira wine. Let these boil well with
When brown add five carrots cut into the veal and pigs' feet. Then, when
squares of an inch, and two turnips, the veal and pigs' feet are cooked
cut in the same manner, and two very tender, take them out of the
large onions, chopped fine. Let the pot and mince the meat of each very
whole brown, keeping well covered, fine; return to the sauce, and again
and cooking slowly over a slow but- season highly, according to taste,
regular Are. Be always careful to for the flavor depends upon the
keep the cover very tight on the pot. piquant seasoning. After the daube.
When it has simmered about ten has cooked four or five hours, take
minutes, turn the daube on the other- off the stove and pour over the sauce
side, cover closely and let it sim- and set all in a cool place. Serve
mer ten minutes more. Then cover
with sufficient boiling water to cover

the next day cold, cutting into thin
the daube; or, better still, if yoj
slices. It will all have formed a
jelly that is most delicious and appe-
have it, use instead of the water, tizing.
boiling "consommS" or "pot-au-teu," Daube Froide a la Crfiole has only
and, if possible, a glass of Sherry to be tried once to be repeated. It is
or Madeira wine; or, if you have a standing dish for luncheon in every
neither of these, which are always to Creole home during the winter, for
be preferred in cooking meats, a it is never essayed in summer, owing
glass of good Claret. Season ac- to the heated weather that would
cording to taste with salt, Cayenne prevent the jellying of the beef. Even
and black pepper. Cover -the pot when put in an ice box it is not the
tight and set it back on the stove, same as when made in winter. It
letting it smother slowly for about is a dish that may be served with
three hours, or until tender. Serve little cost to the most fastidious.
hot or cold.
Beef Marine.
Cold Daabe & la Creole.
Eoeuf Maring.
Daube Froide a. la CrSole. 4 Pounds of Beef, from the Round or Shoulder.
4 Tablespoonfuls of Olive Oil.
This one of the most excellent
is
3 Bay Leaves. 1 Onion. 1 Lemon.
dishes made by the Creoles, and is
1 Taljlespoonful of Vinegar.
always a great standby for luncheons
in winter. Take % Teaspoonful eacli of Ground Cloves,
Mace and Allspice.
3 Pounds of the Rump or Rouud of the Beef.
Salt and Cayenne to Taste.
2 Pounds of Veal Kurap.
2 Pips' Feet. Vi Pound of Salt Fat Meat. The "brisket"of the -beef is ex-
5 Large Ouious. 2 Turnips. cellent for this, as also the "breast
5 Carrots. 2 Cloves of Garlic. 3 Bay Leaves. plate." Mix the spices, salt and pep-
1 Tablespoonful of Lard. per thoroughly and rub well into
1 Glass of Sherry. both sides of the beef. Chop the on-
3 Sprigs of Thyme and Parsley. ions fine, and cover the meat with
Salt, Pepper and Cayenne to Taste.
them. Then mix the oil and vinegar
Cut the salt meat into shreds, roll and the juice of one lemon, and pour
well in Cayenne and black pepper. this over the meat. Set it in tlie ice
Chop finely several sprigs of thyme box, or a cool place, and let it stand
and three bay leaves, one clove of overnight. Then put it into the
garlic, three sprigs of parsley, and stewpan, and be careful to retain all
mash well three cloves and six all- the juices of the spices. Set on the
spice. Roll the strips of salt meat, fire and let it simmer ten minutes,
which must be about three inches in adding the bay leaves, chopped very
length and one-half inch thick, in fine. Then add a tablespoonful of
this. Make incision into the rump of flouf, rolled smoothly in a half tea-
meat and force in the strips of fat spoonful of butter or, lard, melted.
meat and the spices. Then rub the Let this brown, and then half cover
whole well with salt and pepper, the meat with boiling water, using
judging according to taste, and pro- good judgment. Cover closely and
ceed to cook according to the re- set on the oven, letting the beef
cipe for Beef a. la Mode. Let the cook two hours, and turning once,
Daube cook about four hours when so that both sides may be well pene-
you intend to serve it cold. trated by the heat. Serve on a hot
,

dish, pouring the gravy over. This But many prefer the beef fat or suet
is a very old-fashioned dish. for frying, considering it both whole-
some and digestible, and more deli-
FrIeA SZeat, cate than olive oil or the fat of pork.
La Viande Prite. But the careful housekeeper will al-
Frying among the Creoles Is done ways preserve all odds and ends of
fat of beef, mutton or pork, and the
in several ways. The first and the
method most generally adopted in drippings after frying anything. Set
households is t,o put a tablespoonful this aside until the fat settles and
cools, then pour oft carefully so as to
of lard or an ounce, as the quantity
clear from the sediment that always
of meat to cook may seem to require,
into a frying pan. "When the lard settles at the bottom and clarify as
has reached the boiling point lay in above.
the meat and cook first on one side Fried Meat.
then on the other to a nice brown. Grillade.
The second method is that in use
among the Creole chefs, restaura- "Grillades, " or Pried Meat k
Our
teurs, and in the homes of the la CrSole are famous, relishable and
wealthier classes; the meat is com- most digestible dishes, no matter
pletely immersed in the boiling lard what scientists may say about the
as in trying fish or doughnuts. The non-advisability of eating fried meat.
intense heat quickly closes up the The many octogenarians who walk
pores of the meat, and a brcn^n crust our streets, and who have been prac-
is formed; the heat of the lard tically raised on "Grillades," for it
should be such that a piece of bread is a daily dish among the Creoles,
dropped into it becomes brown in- are the best refutation of the outcry
stantly. The lard should never be that is made in the North and West
smoking. This ruins the meat and against fried meat. The great truth
gives a burnt fiavor. As soon as it is that the Creoles know how to fry
begins to smoke remove the frying meat. The round of the meat is al-
pan to the side of the stove, but still v.-ays" selected for Grillades, and one
keep it at the boiling point. The steak will serve six persons. The
half-frying method mentioned above steak is cut into pieces of about six
is, however, the one most generally or eight squares and each piece is
in use, and if followed properly ex- callea a "grillade." Season well with
cellent results are obtained; indeed, salt and pepper, rubbing these into
many Creole chefs prefer it. There the meat thoroughly and letting it
is another method that is very gene- soak well into the fibres. Have ready
rally used, and which'imparts a flavor a hot pan, and place within a table-
similar to that of broiled meat. This spoonful of lard, and, when hot, a
is to lay the meat in a thick-bottomed sliced onion and one clove of garlic,
frying pan with a tablespoonful of cliopped very fine. Let this brown,
butter. Brown the meat quickly first and then add one chopped tomato.
on one side and then on the other; Place the Grillades in this, letting
lay in a hot platter and season as you them soak thoroughly. Cover with a
would broiled meat. tight cover, and set back, letting
In large families where there is a them fry slowly, so as to absorb all
great deal of cooking required, the the lard and juices. Serve on a hot
economical housewife will carefully dish, when brown, -with garnishes of
save all the drippings and the fat parsley. This is the recipe for mak-
remnants of beef, mutton and pork. ing Grillades without gravy. Some
She will occasionally get a pound or aUo fry simply in the boiling lard,
two of suet from the market. These using only a half tablespoonful, and
drippings or skimmings may be clar- letting it soak and absorb thorough-
ified by boiling them in hot water ly after being well seasoned. This
about twice a week. When the fat is a m,-.tter of taste.
is thoroughly melted, strain it with Grillades are a favorite dish among
the water and set aside to cool. After the poorer classes of Creoles, espe-
a while the hard fat that has been cially, being served not only for
formed on top of the water may be breakfast, but also at dinner, in the
lifted out just as you would a cake latter instance with gravy and a dish
of anything; then scrape off all the of red beans and boiled rice.
dark particles from the bottom and
melt the fat over again. While it Grillades Witli Gravy.
is still very hot strain it into a _
Grillades a. la Sauce.
clean stone jar or tin pail and it "is
ready for use in cooking. Refined 1 Rouua Steak.
cotton seed oil and butter oil are 1 Tomato. 1 Large Onion.
now being adopted by many profes- Salt and Pepper.
sional cooks and in households for Select a nice round steak and beat
culinary purposes. Olive oil has al-
well. Cut into grillades of about
ways been in use for this purpose four inches square and season highly
among the Creoles, and is held as with salt and pepper and Cayenne.
a very delicate medium for frying. Put a tablespoonful of lard into the
79

trying pan, and when it heats, add a Meat Balls.


chopped^ onion-; one' clave ol ga-rlio;
and as these brown, add one table- Boulettes.
spoonful of flour, making a Brown
Roux. 1 Pound of Raw or Left-Over Meat.
(See recipe under chapter
"Sauces for Meats, Pish, etc.") Then 1 Tablespoonful of Butter. 1 Onion.
Tlie Juice of a Lemon.
add two tomatoes, sliced, with their
juices, and as this browns lay the
Salt, Pepper and Caj-enne to Taste.
grillades upon it. Cover closely, and Take one pound
as, it browns on one side, turn on the
of steak from the
upper round and mince and chop very
other. Then add a half tablespoon- fine. Add to it one tablespoonful of
ful of vinegar and a cup of water.
lemon juice, one onion (well grated),
Stir well and set back on the stove
one tablespoonful of melted butter,
and let it simmer slowly for about and mixed salt, black pepper and
a half hour. This is very nice Cayenne, seasoning highly; mix all
served with hominy at breakfast, or
with red or white beans and boiled
thoroughly. Porm the meat into
balls,using about two tablespoon-
rice at dinner.
fuls foreach, which will allow six
Again, the Grillades k la Sauce or eight balls or boulettes. Have
are made by frying the grillades,
ready a deep frying pan of lard, suf-
after seasoning well, simply in half
a tablespoonful of boiling lard. The
ficient for the boulettes to swim and
fry to a nice brown. Take out and
lard must always be boiling, so that
drain of all grease, place on a hot
the meat juices may at once coagu-
platter and garnish with fried pars-
late. After they are browned nicely ley, and serve very hot.
on both sides, take the grillades out The same directions may be used
of the frying pan and set in a hot,
in making croquettes of meat, only
dish over a pot of boiling water and
the latter are formed into cylindrical
cover. Have an onion chopped fine,
shapes. If fried in butter, the bou-
put half a tablespoonful of lettes or croquettes are very deli-
lard into the frying pan, stirring cious, but they are nice either way if
well to detach all particles of meat well seasoned, for tlieir success de-
that may have adhered. Then add
pends upon tills.
a chopped onion and brown, and a
tablespoonful of flour or Glace (see Itleat Balls.
recipe under chapter "Sauces for
Meats, Pish, etc.") and let this brown. Boulards.
Pour in a tablespoonful of vinegar
and a cup of water, season well with Seieral Slices of Meat (Raw or Cold Coolsed).
1 Tomato. 1 Onion. i Carrot.
salt,pepper and Cayenne, and let it
boil it reaches a right consist-
till
3 Hard-Boiled Eggs.
1 Stalli of Celery. 3 Sprigs of Parsley.
ency, which will be in about ten
1 Bay Leaf. 1 Sprig of Thyme.
minutes. Pour over the grillades,
and serve. 1 Tablespoonful of Butter. *

% Cup of Cracker Crumbs. A Pinch of Ginger.


Grillades Breaded. Ml Cup of Water.
Salt and Pepper to Taste.

Grillades PanSes.
Select slices of beef cut very thin
1 Round of Veal. ,
from the round of the cross rib. Take
1 Tablespoonful of Lard. one tomato, one onion, one carrot, a
1 Beaten Egg. Vi Cup of Bread Crumbs. stalk of celery, several sprigs of par-
Salt, Pepper and Cayenne. sley, one bay leaf, a sprig of thyme,
three hard-boiled eggs, and chop very
The round of the veal is always fine. Mix this with one tablespoonful
used for this. Cut the veal into of butter, a half cup of cracker
squares of about four inches; season crumbs and a pinch of ginger. Salt
well with salt, pepper and Cayenne. and pepper to taste. Take each slice
Beat an egg well and take each gril- of meat,and make a roll of it, folding
lade and soak it well in the egg, and the dressing within and folding over
then roll in bread crumbs grated. the edges that it may be retained.
Have ready a pan of boiling grease, Tie each with thin twine. Have boil-
sufficient for the grillades to swim ing lard or suet on the Are, drop in
in it; fry to a nice brown and serve the' boulards rolled in bread crumbs,
very hot. set them back on the stove, cover
well, and let them simmer gently for
Lieft-Over Meat, about two hours, adding a half cup
of water to prevent scorching. Keep
Left-over meat may be utilized in the pot covered. After two hours,
many delightful ways, such as "Bou- drain the boulards well by laying
lettes,"' "Boulards," "Croquettes," them on heated brown paper; place
"Rissoles," "iVEeat Soufllfi" and va- them in a hot dish, garnish it with
rious forms of Hash. The following sliced hard-boiled eggs, parsley and
are the forms of preparation in use olives, and serve. Bach boulard
among the Creoles: should be about the size of an, egg.
80

L,eft-Over Meat. dish in which it was cooked,


Rissoles. with any left-over sauce spread over
the slices.
i of Cold Hoast Beef or Veal, or
Ounces
Left-Over Meat of any Kind.
Potted Beef.
2 Ounces of Stale Broad. Wet. and Squeezed Terrine de Boeuf.
Thoroughly. 2 Rounds of Beef.
^^ Teaspoonful of Minced Parsley. (Gros de Boeuf).
1 Slice of Suet
1^ Ounce of Flour.
% Can Mushrooms.
1V4 Tablespoonluls of Milk or Water. 4 Yolks of Eggs. 1 Dozen Allspice. 4 Cloves.
^ Teaspoonful Each of Salt and Black Pepper. Salt, Pepper and Cayenne.
A Dash or Cayenne. 1 Glass of Brandy.
1 Bay Leaf, Chopped Fine, With Sprigs of
Chop the slices of beef very fine
Parsley and Thyme.
with the suet, and season with the
Mince the meat finely ana season mashed spices, the herbs, minced very
well. Mix the ingredients thoroughly fine, and mix thoroughly with the
with it, adding, if you have it, mince 1 beaten yolks of the eggs. Pour over
Chaurice or sausage meat, or a little all the brandy and mix. Line the
cold ham minced. Form it into balls, bottom of the baking pan with strips
using two tablespoonfuls for each of lean bacon and dot of beef on top
ball. Brush lightly with milk, toss with bits of butter. Bake for two
in a little flour, pat to get off all su- hours in a quick oven.
perfluous flour, and brown, nicely in HASH.
boiling lard. Drain off all lard and
serve on a platter, garnished with Hachis.
parsley sprigs. 1 Quart of Cold Meat. 1 Onion.
Meat Souillf. 1 Pint of Chopped Potatoes (Uncooked).
2 Hard-Boiled Eggs. Vt of a Clovi of Garlic.
Souffle de Boeut. 1 Tablespoonf ul of Butter oi Lard. .

1 Cup of Cold Meat. Salt, Pepper and Cayenne to Taste.


2 Tablespoonfuls of Batter.
2 Tablespoonluls of Flour. 1 Cup of Cold Milk. Take the remains, of cold roast,
2 :ggs. stew, bouilli, steaks or fowl, and
Salt and Pepper to Taste. mince very fine. To every quart of
m.eat allow one onion, a quarter of
Put two tablespoonfuls of
level a clove of garlic, chopped fine, and
butter into a frying pan, and when one pint of choppe3 (uncooked) pota-
it is hot add two ta-b,lesp6onfuls of
toes, and two hard-boiled eg':js,
flour,rubbing smoothly and letting choped fine. Mix all this with the
it brown. Then add gradually one minced meat, add salt, pepper and
cup of cold milk. Stir this until it Cayenne to taste; put into a stew
boils. Add one-half teaspoonful of pan with a tablespoonful of butter
salt; a pepper and one cupful
little
or lard, and let it simmer gently.
of chopped meat, or fowl, that has
After ten minutes add a half pint
been left over. When' this comes to of hot water. Lut it cook ten min-
a boil, add the yolk of two beaten utes longer and serve. The egg may
eggs. Let it cook a moment longer
and set to cool. Then beat the whites be omitted.
of the eggs and when the meat mix- Dry OT Baked Hcsb.
ture is cold, fold them in carefully. Hachis Sec.
Turn this into a buttered dish anl
bake in a moderate oven twenty min- 1Pint of Chopped Meat, Left-Over.
utes. Serve as soon as removed % Pint of Water, or Left-Over Broti
from the flre. A little grated nut- 1 Pint of Cooked Chopped Tomatoes.
meg is a great addition. 1 Tablespoonful of Melted Butter.
1 Large Onion. 1 Clove of Garlic. 1 Bay Leaf.
Beefsteak Pie.
1 Sprig of Parsley.
Vol-du-Vent de Boeuf. Chop and mince the meat very fine.
1 Quart of Cold Cooked Meat. Chop the potatoes fine, or in square
2 Slices of Breakfast Bacon. inch pieces.. Mince the parsley, bay
1 Tablcspoonful of Butter. % Dozen Potatoes. leaf, onion and garlic fine; mix all
Thyme, Bay Leaf and Parsley. together with the meat and potatoes
Salt, Pepper and Cayenne to Taste. and season highly with pepper and.
Make a nice pie crust. (See plain Cayenne, salting to taste. Add the
Paste.) Line a baking pan with this, tablespoonful of butter and bake in
and bake in the oven. Cut the meat a moderate oven for about one hour.
very fine, into dice, and season well, HasU en Toast.
rubbing with the minced thyme, par-
sley, bay leaf, and saltand pepper. Hachis sur Canaps.
Stew the meat as in Ragout de Veau I Quart of Cold Meat.
a, la Bourgeoise.
Place in the pan. 1 Pint of Boiling Water or Milk
Dot the top with bits of butter, and 2 Tablespoonfuls of Butter.
place over all a layer of pie crust, 2 Tablespoonfuls of ilour.
decorating the edges nicelj-. Bake to Salt and Tspper to Taste.
a nice brown. Serve in the Cut the left-over roast, bouilli or-
81

steak into small squares. To each Breaded On. Tail.-*.


\ Dint of these little squares allow one
\tablespoonful of butter, one table- Queues de Boeuf PanScs.
spoonful of flour and a half pint of 2 Ox Tails.
toiling water. Put the butter into 1 Cup
of Grated Bread Crumbs.
a\frying pan, and as it melts add the Sprigs of Chopped Parsley.
3
flour, being careful not to let it burn. 3 Sprigs of Thyme. 1 Bay Leaf. 1 Ess.
When browned add the water, or, Salt, Pepper and Cayenne to Tasto.
preferably, milk, and stir until it Wash the tails and out them at
begins to boil. Then add the hashed the Joints; then cut again, into Uvo
and seasoned meat, and season again pieces of about four inches in length.
to taste. Set the hash on a moderate Have a pot of boiling' water; season
fire and let it simmer for fifteen this well v/ith chopped parsley,
minutes. thyme, bay leaf, and salt and pepper
In the meantime, toast slices of and Cayenne to taste. Boil the ox
bread and butter them. Set them in tails til tender; when done, remove
a hot dish, spread each slice with from the fire and let them cool in
the hash very thickly and pour the the water in which they were boiled.
sauce over and serve. The hash may Beat an egg well, roll tlie bits of
be baked and spread on the toast ana tail in the egg, and then roll in
served with ^ sauce k I'EspagnoIe. grated bread crumbs. Drop into a
(See recipe.) pot of boiling grease and fry to a
golden brown. Take out and drain
Corn Beef. and serve with a Sauce a. la Tartare,
Ravigotte, Tomato, or any sauce.
Boeut au Mi-Sel. (See recipe.)
3 Pounds of Corned Beef.
2 Carrots. 2 Turnips. 1 Stalk of Celery.
Ox Tails & la Bonrgeolse.
2 Onions. 1 Clove of Garlic. Queue de- Boeuf a. la Bourgeoise.
2 Ox Tails.
The best out for this is the lower 2 Onions. 2 Carrots. 1 Turnip.
round of the beef, which Is perfectly
free from bone. Put the corn beef on
% Can of Green Peas.
^4 Inch of Ham. -1 Tablespoonful of Butter.
to boil in a large pot of cold water. 2 Sprisa of Thyme.
The pot should be well covered. When 1 Bay Leaf. 1 Clove of Garlic.
it begins boiling well, set it back ] Pint of Consomme or Boiling Water,
'

to cook gently, and allow twenty- 1 Glass of Sherry Wine or Water.


five minutes to each pound of beef.
When within two hours of being Cut tlie ox tails into pieces of
cooked, add two carrots, two tur- three or four inches in length. Chop-
nips, a stalk of celery, two onions, two onions fine, and put the whole-
one clove of garlic, chopped fine, and into a saucepan with a tablespoonful
let these boil with the beef. Serve tif butter. Let them brown a little-
with the vegetables ranged whole an'd add two large carrots, cut intO'
around the dish. Corn beef is also dice, and one turnip cut the same-
served with cabbage, but never boil way. Brown these with the ox tails.
the cabbage in the beef as both w^ill Add one-half inch of ham, well
become indigestible. It should be chopped and let it brown, and then
as tender as a spring chicken when add two sprigs of thyme and one
done. bay leaf and one clove of garlic,
Corn Beef Hash. chopped very fine. Let these ingred-
ients all brown about two minutes
Ha^jhis de Boeuf au Mi-Sel. over a hot fire. Then add one glass
1 Pint of Corn Beet. Cooked, and 1 Pint of of Sherry wine or water. Let all
Left-Over Potatoes. brown t"wo minutes longer, and add
1 Grated Onion. 1 Tablespoonful of Butter. one pint of consommS or boiling wa-
1"
Cup of Broth or Water. ter. Season again to taste, and add
1 Bay Leaf. 1 Sprig of Parsley. a half can of green peas. Let all
Salt, Pepper and Cayenne to Taste. boil until the ox tails are tender to
the touch, and serve hot.
Mix the meat thoroughly after min-
cing fine together with the chopped Broiled KidiEcys.
potatoes. Grate the onion and a Brochettes de Rognons.
half clove of garlic if desired, and
chop the herbs fine and mix thor- 3 Kidneys.
oughly with the beef, seasoning high- 1 Tablespoonful of Butter.
ly. Put the butter into the frying Lemon Juice. Chopped Parsley.
Salt and Pepper to Taste.
pan, add the meat and the broth or
water ,and stir constantly till it The kidneys must, first of all, be
toils. Spread, after it has cooked perfectly fresh. Wash them well
for about twenty minutes on slices and them; cut into thin pieces
slice
of buttered toast. Pour over the of about three inches long and two
gravy and garnish with sprigs of inches wide. Run a wooden or sil-
parsley and sliced lemon. ver skewer through to hold them to-
82

gether, and season well with salt and one half inch in thickness, and
and pepper. Brush with a little but- season well with salt and pepper,
ter, and put on a double broiler and and lay it over the onions. Stir
broil for about five minutes, turning well. Cover and let it fry for about
over the broiler to alow each side three minutes, and then turn over
to cook. Place on a platter and pour and let it cook three minutes more.
over melted butter and chopped par- Pour a teaspoonful of vinegar on top
sley and lemon juice, and serve hot, and again season to taste. Let it
as you would broiled steak. simmer three or four minutes long-
er and serve hot. Liver does not re-
SteTved Kidneys. quire long to cook.
( Rognons Sautfis a. la Crgole.
Jellied Tongue.
3 Kidneys. 1 Cup of Water.
i

Langue de Boeuf en Gen^e.


% Spoon of Butter.
l_^ % Glass of White Wine. 1 Beef Tongue. 2 Calf's Feet.
1 Teaspoonful of Slierry Wine. 4 Pints of Strong Consomme.
Salt and Pepper to Taste. 1 Glass of Sherry Wine.
1 SprigEach of Chopped Parsley, Thyme and Spices.
Bay Leaf, Very Fine. Parboil the tongue and two calf's
Select perfectly fresh kidneys; feet. Then take out of tile hot water
wash them well, and then slice very and skin and clean the tongue well,
thin. Season well with salt and pep- and take the bones out of the calf's
per. Put one and a half tablespoon- feet. Mince t"wo onions very fine,
fuls of butter into the saucepan; and fry them in a tablespoonful of
when melted and very hot, add the butter. Let them brown, and lay on
kidneys and chopped herbs, being these the well-seasoned tongue and
very careful to stir constantly and calf's feet. Let them simmer ten
very fast, to prevent burning. Add minutes, and then add one pint of
a half glass of White Wine, if pos- consommfi, and Ave minutes after,
sible, and one cup of water or con- one glass of white wine. Let these
sommfi. Let it boil up once, and smother, keeping well covered, for
the kidneys are ready to be served. an hour and a half. Then take the
Kidneys are like eggs they do not tongue out, and let the calf's feet
cook and reduce a half hour longer.
require long to cook, and the more
they are cooked the harder they be- After this add the tongue for two
come. Five minutes should be suf- minutes longer. Put all into a bowl
ficient to cook them well, and at or dish, and let it cool. You will
no time should they be allowed fo have a delicious jelly.
boil. By adding champagne, instead
of white wine, you will have Rognons Smothered Tongne.
Saute au Champagne. Langue de Boeuf BraisSe.
1Fresh Tongue of Beei.
Broiled Liver.
1 Pint of Liquor in Which the Tongue Was
Brochettes de Foie. Boiled.
1 Pound of Beef's Liver. 2 Onions, Minced Very Fine.
Tablespoonful of Melted Butter, 3 Sprigs Each of Thyme and Parsley.
Salt and Pepper to Taste. 1 Bay Leaf. 2 Cloves.
Chopned Parsley to Garnish. 1 Tablespoonful of Butter.
Wash and slice the liver into thin 1 Glass of White Wine (if Desired).
pieces of about three inches in length Salt and Pepper to Taste.
and one-quarter inch in thickness. Parboil the tongue for about ten
Run a skewer through to prevent minutes. Then skin and clean 'well.
from curling up. Season well with Chop an onion very fine, and brown
salt and pepper, brush lightly with this in a tablespoonful of butter.
butter, and place on a double broiler, When brown, add the tongue, which
stringing on the skewer ',/ith alter- you will have arranged by fastening
nate slices of bacon. Broil as you the thick part to the tip with a
would a tenderloin steak for about .

skewer, as for roast beef. Let it


fiveminutes, and serve with a sauce cook, smothering slowly, for fifteen
of melted butter and chopped par- minutes, and then add another onion
sley poured over. sliced nicely. Let this brown, and
Fried Liver a la Lyonalse. add one square inch of ham, well
Foie Sautfies a. la Lyonnaise. chopped, two carrots sliced, and a
bay leaf, and two sprigs of thyme,
1 Pound of LlTer of the Beef.
minced fine. Brown again, and add
1 Tablespoonful of Butter. a pint of broth. Season well, and
2 Large Onions.
add a glass of white wine, and then
Salt and Pepper to Taste.
let it smother for one hour and a
Slice the onions nicely. Put one half longer, turning every quarter,
tablespoonful of butter into the frying so that every part may cook thor-
pan and add the onions. When brown, oughly. Serve with the sauce in
take the liver which you have cut into which it was cooked, or with a Sauce
slices of about three inches in length Piquante. (See recipe.)
CHAPTER XIII.

VEAL.

Du Veau.

The loin, filet, shoulder and breast raise the damper of the stove and
ot the veal are used for roasting. cover the veal with a piece of brown
Chops are cut from the loin, and the buttered paper and let it cook slow-
leg is used for filets and cutlets. The ly, allowing at least twemty minutes
filet of veal is quite different from to each pound of veal.
the filet of beef, and does not, in
Keep the
oven at a steady, regular heat. About
any manner, correspond to the lat- twenty minutes before serving take
ter, being a solid piece cut from the off the buttered paper and let the
leg-s of the young calf. The knuckle roast brown nicely, augmenting the
is the lower part of the leg after fire a little. Take out, place on a
the cutlets are taken off, and, with hot dish, garnish nicely with sprigs
the neck, is used extensively for of parsley and sliced lemon. Serve
making stews, soups and veal pies. with its own gravy. The practice of
Indeed, as far as stews are concerned, making a gravy with fiour for roast
the Creoles never make a "beef stew" beef and rest veal cannot be too se-
or very rarely, the meat of beef be- verely condemned. Meat is always
ing considered too tough. Never buy best when served in its own juice, if
veal that is very young, for young roasted or broiled.
meats, as a rule, are not nutritious;
but properly cooked, as the Creoles
know how, they need never be un- Roast Veal With Pine Herbs.
wholesome or indigestible. calf A Carr de Veau Roti aux Fines Heroes.
should never be killed until It is at
least two months old, and then the A 4-Pound Filet of Veal.
meat has a pinkish tinge, and is 1 Cup of Broth or Water.
firm and the bones are hard. 1 Tablespoonful of Lard.
Calf
1 Onion. 3 Bay Leaves.
that has been killed too young may
2 Sprigs of Sweet Marjoram.
be known by the bluish tinge and.
3 Sprigs of Parsley.
the soft, flabby flesh, and small, ten-
3 Sprigs of Thyme.
der bones. The Juice of 1 Lemon.
The Creole cooks always pound the ^ Teaspoonful Each of Oround Cloves, Mace
veal almost to a pulp. This renders and Allspice.
it very tender and digestible. Veal
must alw^ays be w^ell cooked, and Have the butcher cut the filet of
cooked very slowly, else it will be veal square, wipe with a damp towel
hard, tough and unfit for food. and then take one tablespoonful of
Veal furnishes an almost endless lard and dredge the roast nicely.
variety of delightful dishes. The fol- Season well with salt and Cayenne;
lowing are those most important in mince tlie onion, bay leaf, marjoram,
use in Creole homes: parsley and thyme, and mix vhese
with the ground spices; add the juice
Roast Loin of Veal. of a lemon, and pour all over the
Longe de Veau Rotie. meat. Place in a quick oven for
about fifteen minutes. After this,
4 Pounds of Veal. lessen the heat, place on top of the
1 Tablespoonful of Butter or Lard. veal a buttered piece of brown pa-
Salt and Pepper to Taste. per, and let it roast slowly, allowing
Sprigs of Parsley and Sliced Lemon to Gar-
twenty minutes for each pound of
nish.
veal. When almost done, take off
Trim and cut the veal nicely of the paper and let the roast brown
the heavier portion of the fat, leav- nicely for twenty minutes longer.
ing enough, however, to render it Then take the roast out of the gravy
sweet and juicy. If freshly cut, and and place in a hot dish in the oven.
not handled too much by the butcher, Take the gravy, stir well, mixing
merely wipe the loin with a damp all the herbs that have run out of
towel. Then dredge it thickly with the beef. Add one cup of b'roth or
salt and pepper, and separate the ar- water and the juice of one lemon,
ticulations or joints, that the meat and mix this thoroughly. Grate
may cook thoroughly. Rub well some bread crumbs, beat well in one
with a tablespoonful of butter or egg, and pour this over the veal, let
lard, and place in a very quick oven it brown nicely and serve with the
for about fifteen minutes. Then sauce.
84

Filet of Veal With Mushrooms or Venl Cutlets Breaded.


TraMeH. Cotelettes de Veau PanSes.
Filet de Veau aux Champignons ou 6 Veal Cutlets.
aux Truffes. 1 Egg. 1 Cup of Bread Crumbs.
1 Filet ot Veal. and Pepper to Taste.
Salt
H Can of Mushrooms or Truffles. Lemon and Parsley to Garnish.
1 Small Onion. 1 Bay Leaf. Sauce a la Alaltre d'Hotel.
4 Cloves (It desired). Have the cutlets cut thin. Season
1% Tablespoonfuls of Butter. well with salt and pepper. Beat an
1 Tablespoonful of Glace (see recipe).
1 Glass of Sherry or Madeira Wine (or water).
egg well and roll the cutlets in the
Salt and Pepper to Taste,
egg, then roll in bread crumbs. Drop
in boiling lard and try to a nice
Proceed in exactly the same man- golden brown. Take out, drain off
ner as for Filet of Beef Larded, with tlie lard, place on a heated dish
Mushrooms or Truffles, only do not and serve with garnish of parsley
lard the veal. Allow the veal to and sliced lemon and a Sauce k la
cook much longer, for it must be Maitre d'Hotel. (See recipe.) The
;

well done, twenty minutes to ths addition ot a little lemon Juice adds
pound being a good guide always in to the fiavor when eating the cutlets.
roasting veal. (See recipe for Filet
of Beef Larded, with Mushrooms or Veal Cutlets Breaded asd Broiled.
Truffles.) Cotelettes de Veau Panfies et Grll-
16es.
Stuffed Roast Shoulder or Breast of
Veal. 6 Veal Cutlets. 1 Egg.
1 Cup of Bread Crumbs.
Epaule ou Poitrine de Veau Parcie. Parsley. Sprigs.
1 Shoulder of Veal. ^4 Pound of Ham. llelted Butter or Sauce a la Ravigotte.
1 Herb Bouquet.
1 Hard-Bolled Egg. 1 Tablespoonful of Butter. Have the cutlets as thin as pos-
1 Spoon of Flour. sible. Season well, after having beat
the shoulder of the veal
(If is used, have with the rolling-pin, and roll in a
the butcher remove the bone.) well-beaten egg and then In bread
crumbs. Pat lightly with the hands
When reaily to cook, wipe well and brush with melted butter. Place
with a damp towel, and then dredge on a double broiler and broil on a
with salt and pepper, seasoning high- very slow fire till no blood exudes.
ly. Make a dressing by taking one Serve with drawn butter sauce
cup of stale bread, wet and squeezed, poured over or a Sauce 9. la Ravi-
one-quarter pound of sliced ham, gotte. (See recipe.) Garnish the
or salt pork, preferably the ham,
dish nicely with parsley sprigs.
and chop very fine. Mix this with
the bread and season highly with hot Cutlets of Veal it la Milanaise.
pepper, according to taste; 1 carrot,
1 onion, 1 bay leaf, 1 hard-boiled Cotelettes de Veau k la Milanaise.
egg, 1 sprig of thyme, 1 ot parsley, 6 Veal Cutlets. 1 Egg.
all minced very fine. Add one table- 1 Cup of Bread Crumbs.
spoonful of butter, and place in a 1 Tablespoonful of Melted Butter.
frying pan; let it fry for about ten A Bed of Macaroni or Spaghetti.
minutes and then add, it you ha.ve Tomato Sauce.
it, a quarter ot a glass ot white wine, Prepare as above, and serve the
or two tablespoonfuls, and two ta- cutlets on a bed ot boiled macaroni
blespoonfuls of beef broth; stir well or spaghetti, and pour over the
and cook for five minutes longer. whole a Tomato Sauce.
Then stuff the shoulder well and
skewer the filet to prevent the dress- Veal Cutlets en Fapillotes,
ing from falling out in cooking. It Cotelettes de Veau en Papillotes.
is well to tie the veal at either end 6 Veal Cutlets.
with a piece of twine. Take one ta- A Half Pound of Pork Sausage Meat.
blespoonful of lard and dredge % Can Muslrooms. 1 Tablespoonful Butter,
roast according to preceding recipes. 1 Clove Garlic.
If the breast of the veal is used, '
Salt and Pepper to Taste.
make long gashes between the ribs Use for this young and tender
and fill with a dressing prepared as veal cutlets, cut very thin. Fry the
above, place in the baking pan and chops, after seasoning well in but-
roast slowly, according to directions. ter, very slowly, and, when cooked,
When finished cooking, remove the take out ot the frying pan and put
shoulder or breast, and stir the gravy in a dish. Take a- tablespoonful ot
well, adding a cup of broth or v/a- butter and put in a trying pan. Add
ter and the Juice of one lemon and a a half pound ot sausage meat and a
teaspoonful of butter, seasoning to halt can of mushrooms, chopped very
taste. Serve with the roast. Some fine. Mix well, and season with salt
like the addition of a teaspoonful and pepper. Add a minced clove ot
of prepared mustard, but that is a and
garlic, let it all cook five min-
matter of taste. utes. Take pieces ot white fools-
85

cap paper and cut in cone or pyra- and three bay leaves, one Clove of
midal shapes of the size of the out- garlic,three sprigs of parsley, and
lets. Fold the edges over the other mash well three cloves and six all-
very nicely, doubling the paper to spice. Roll the strips of salt meat,
form the half diamond or cone. Then which must be about three inches
oil the paper well with sweet oil. in length and one-half inch thick,
Take the stufHng of sausage meat .
in this. Make incisions into the
and put a layer on one side of the rump of meat and force in the strips
fold of each cone. Lay the chop of fat meat and the spices. Then
diagonally across this, so that the rub the whole well with salt
end reaches the tip of the cone, and and judging according to
pepper,
spread over this another layer of taste, and proceed to cook according
the stuffing. Fold the paper over to the recipe for Beef a. la Mode.
neatly around the edges, and -then (See, recipe Beef S,' la Mode.) Let
- oil well again on the outside. Bake the daube cook about four hours
in an oven or lay on top of a grid- when you intend to serve it cold.
iron and broil until brown. This In the meantime, in another pot,
will be in about five minutes. They place a veal steak of about two
will need no gravy, the oil having pounds and two pigs' feet. Season
slightly permeated, and the chops well with salt and pepper and Ca-
being kept delicate and juicy by the yenne, and cover well with four
dressing. Serve hot in the papers quarts of water, and let them boil.
or papillotes, the guests removing Add one bay leaf, one sprig of thyme,
them at the table. This is a very one-half clove of garlic and one on-
dainty way of serving veal cutlets, ion, all minced very fine, and two
and the only way of serving them cloves mashed into almost a jelly,
in papillotes. and one glass of Sherry or Madeira
"Wine. Let these boil well with the
Veal Cutlets Smothered & la CrSole. veal and pigs' feet. Then, when the
Cotelettes de Veau :6toufCfies ou veal and pigs' feet are cooked very
Brais6es &. la Creole. tender, take them out of the pot and
6 Veal Cutlets.
'
minc'e the meat of each very fine;
6 Onions, Sliced Fine. return to the sauce, and again sea-
1 Tablespoonful of Lard. son highly, according to taste, for
1 Tablespoonful of Flour. the flavor depends upon the piquant
2 Tablespoonfuls of Vinegar. seasoning. After the daube has
Pepper and Salt to Taste. '
cooked four or five hours, take off
Cut the outer skin of the cut-
off the stove and pour over the sauce
lets, and season well with salt and and set all in a cool place. Serve
pepper. Dredge with flour. Place
the next day cold, cutting into thin
the tablespoonful of lard in slices. It will all have formed a
a deep frying pan and let it melt. jelly that is most delicious and ap-
Then lacy in the sliced onions, and petizing; .. J
If the flank is used, have it
boned
,

over' these lay the cutlets. Cover


closely. Let them simmer over a by the butcher, removing the lit-
gristle.
hot fire for a few minutes and then tle flat bones and all the
In this case, trim it evenly and
make
turn the cutlets on the other side.
a forcemeat of sausage, 1 cup, grated
-

After three minutes, add two table- cup, wet and


spoonfuls of vinegar, chopped par- flne; bread crumbs, 1
squeezed; 1 clove of garlic or 1
sley, thyme and bay leaf and a clove
of garlic. Turn the veal, letting the grated onion, all minced very fine;
1 hard-boiled egg, 1 sprig
of i:hyme
flour brown well, and keep the pot Mix all
and bay leaf, minced flne.
closely covered. When brown, pour
over one cup of water, or a, pint, thoroughly with the sausage meat
and the bread; fry in a tablespoonful
which will be sufllcient to covep the
meat. Bring this to a brisk boil of butter for about five minutes; add
well;
and set the pot back, where it can a tablespoonful of Sherry, stir pro-
stuff the flank of veal, and
then
simmer gently for about two hours. same manner as
Serve with a nice garnish of parsley ceed in exactly the
or radishes. above indicated.
Fricanileau of Veal.
Veal Daube a la Crgole.
Fricandeau de VeaUi
Daube Froide a la Creole. Weight.
A Rump of Veal of Two Pounds
4 Pounds of Veal Rump. 1 Pint of Broth.
2 Pig's Feet. Vi Pound of Salt Fat Meat. 2 Onions. 2 Carrots.
5 Large Onions. 2 Turnips. % Dozen Slices ot Bacon.
5 Carrots. 2 Cloves of Garlic. 3 Bay Leaves. % "Can ot Green Peas or Mushrooms.
1 Tatlespoonful of Lard. Thyme, Parsley, Bay Leaf.
1 Glass of Slierry.
3 Sprigs of Tliyme and Parsley.
this take one whole piece of
For
the rump of the veal, cut about
two
Salt, Pepper and Cayenne to Taste.
Cut the salt meat into shreds, roll inches in thickness, and about the
size of a large saucepan or frying
-wellin Cayenne and black pepper.
Chop finely several sprigs of thyme pan in length and width. Lard the
beef well with larding needles, and Sten-ed Veal With Fotatoea.
rub well with salt and pepper. Then Ragout de Veau aux Pommes de
slice two onions, two carrots, two Terre.
sprigs of thyme and two bay leaves, 1 Brislcet or Knnclsle of Veal.
and a half dozen slices of thinly- 2 Small Potatoes. 2 Large Onions.
sliced fat bacon, two inches long and 2 Carrots. 1 Tablespoonful of Floor.
about the thickness of a dollar. 1 Tablespoonful of Lard.
Place the bacon in strips in the bot- 1 Clove of Garlic. 1 Bay Leaf.
tom of the saucepan, and lay over 1 Sprig Eacli of Thyme, Paralcy and Sweel
this a layer of the sliced carrots Marjoram,
and onions. Put about a dozen lit- Salt and Pepper to Taste.
tle dots of lard over this at intervals, Proceed in the same manner as for
and sprinkle with salt and pepper. RagoQt de Veau a. la Bourgeoise.
Lay the veal on top of this, and then Just before adding the water, add
cover up with a layer of the sliced the potatoes, which have been peeled
onions and carrots, and lay strips and out into quarters or halves, ac-
of bacon on top. Cut a piece of pa- cording to size. Add the boiling wa-
per the size of the saucepan, and ter after they are in the stew about
cover it up. Place in a good oven, ten minutes, and set back, allowing
and let it bake three-quarters of an it to simmer for an hour and a half,
hour longer, slowly. Watch care- or until very tender.
fully. When done, take out the meat
and place it in a dish. Take the Stevred Veal With Mnshrooms.
sauce and add, if possible, one-half Ragoflt de Veaux aux Champignons.
glass of white wine, and let it boil
with the vegetables a moment. Then 3 Pounds of Brisket of Veal. 2 Large Onions.
add one pint of broth or water, and 2 Carrots. 2 Pints of Boiling Water,
let it cook well. Strain after it boils 1 Can of Mushrooms. 1 Tablespoonful Flou.r
fifteen minutes. It will have become 1 Tablespffonful' of Lard.
a very fine gravy. Add, if desired. 1 1 Bay Leaf.
Clove of Garlic.
a half can of mushrooms, or a half 1 Sprig Eacli of Thyme and Sweet Marjoram.
can of green peas, and let it boil for Salt and Pepper and Cayenne to Taste.
ten minutes longer. Then add the Cut the veal into pieces of about
Pricandeau of Veal and let it warm 1 1-2 inches square.
well for about ten minutes and it The brisket of the veal or the neck
is ready for the table. This is a is best for stews, preferably tlie
most excellent family dish. brisket. Cut it into pieces of about
1 1-2 inches square, put a tablespoon-
Stewed Veal. ful of lard "in the stewpot, ami,
when hot, throw in the veal, whioli
Ragout de Veau a. la Bourgeoise. has been well seasoned with salt and
black pepper. Let it brown, and then
3 Pounds of Brisket of Veal. 2 Large Onions.
2 Carrots. 2 Pints of Boiling Water.
add the onions and carrots, whicli
% Can of Tomatoes. 1 Tablespoonful Flour. have been chopped fine, and 1 clove
1 Tablespoonful of Lard.
of garlic, minced very fine. Let this
1 Clove of Garlic. 1 Bay Leaf. brown, and then add 1 tablespoonful
1 Sprig Eacli of Thyme and Sweet Marjoram. of fiour, sifted well, and let this
Salt and Pepper and Cayenne to Taste. brown nicely; add 2 pints of boiling
water and 1 can of mushrooms whole,
The brisket of the veal or the neck and a bay leaf, chopped very fine,
is best for stews, preferably the and salt and pepper again to taste,
brisket. Cut it into pieces of about adding, if desired, a dash of Cayenne.
1 1-2 inches square, put a tablespoon- Set the stew back on the stove and
ful of lard in the stew pot, and when cover closely. Let it simmer slowly
hot throw in the veal, which has for an hour and a half, or until the
been well seasoned with salt and meat is perfectly tender. Then serve
black pepper. Let it brown, and hot. This is a very delightful dish.
then add the onions and carrots,
which have been chopped fine, Cream of Veal,
and one clove of garlic, minced CrSme de Veau.
very fine. Let this brown, and
then add one vablespoonful of 3 Cups of Chopped Veal.
and let this brown
flour, Silted well, 1 Cup of Chopped Ham.
nicely; add two pints of boiling wa- Salt, Pepper and Cayenne to Taste.
ter and 1 can of tomatoes, and a % Cup of Cream Sauce.
bay leaf, chopped very fine, and salt Utilize in this the left-over filet
and pepper again to taste, adding, of veal. Chop very fine and add one
if desired, a dash of Cayenne. Many cup of minced ham. Prepare a
of the Creoles add a teaspoo'nful of Cream Sauce (see recipe under
vinegar. Set the stew back on the "Sauces for Meats, Pish, etc.") i"
stove and cover closely. Let it sim- the proportions to make just a halt
mer slowly for an hour and a half, cup. Season the chopped veal with
or until the meat Is perfectly tender. this, add a dash of Cayenne and
Then serye hot. grated nutmeg, spread upon hot but-
87

tered toast, aini serve at breakfast. Blanquette of Veal.


Chicken and mutton may be pre- Blanquette de Veau.
pared in the same -way.
3 Pounds of Veal Brisket.
Veal en Ratatoullle. 2 Onions. 1 Carrot. % Can of Mushrooms,
1 Tablespoonful of Butter.
Ratatouille de Veau k la Creole. 1 Tablespoonful of Flour.
Yolks of 2 Eggs. Juice of 1 Lemon.
i Pounds of Brisket of Veal. %
Pouad of Ham Va Gallon of Water.
2 Cloves of Gallic. Salt and Pepper to Taste.
% Can of Tomatoes, or 6 Fresb. This
is a very cheap and excellent
4 Dozen Fresh Okra. 2 Large Onions.
2 Sweet Potatoes. 1 Bay Leaf.
dish and may be made with left-over
1 Sprig of Thyme. 2 Sprigs of Parsley.
meat. But the brisket is never ex-
Salt, Pepper and Cayenne.
pensive, and one may as well have it
with the fresh meat. Take a brisket
Cut the veal into pieces of about of veal and cut into pieces of two
three inches in length and two in square inches. Put in a stew pot
width. Cut the ham into dice shape, and cover with a half gallon of wa-
and the sweet potatoes, after peeling, ter, and add salt and pepper and two
into cubes of about one and a half onions and 'one carrot, chopped fine.
inches. Add a half sweet pepper Let it boil till very tender. When
pod, if possible, being careful to ex- it reaches this stage, take the meat
tract all the seeds. Season the veal out of the saucepan, and keep tlie
highly. Put a tablespoonful of lard water in which it was boiled.' Take
into the stew pot (butter is nicer, another saucepan and put a table-
if it can be afforded), add the veal spoonful of butter in it, and as it
and let it brown nicely; then add melts add a tablespoonful of flour.
the ham, the sweet potatoes and the Mix well, continuing to dissolve till
pepper pod, and let them simmer it becomes a smooth cream; do not
gently for about fifteen minutes. let it brown. Add one pint of the
In the meantime, prepare the fol- water in which the veal was boiled.
lowing sauce: Place a tablespoonful Stir well, making it very light, and
of butter into a saucepan, and when not thick. Add' one-half can of mush-
it melts add the chopped onion, and rooms, and let the whole boil about
as they brown nicely, the minced fifteen minutes, so as- to be very-
herbs and garlic, and then the to- light. Then put in the veal, which
matoes sliced and chopped, in their is already cooked. Let it simmer for
own liquor. Let this stew for about about fifteen minutes longer, and
fifteen minutes, and then add this take off the fire and add the yolks
to the stewing veal; mix thoroughly of two eggs, well beaten, with two
and set back on the stove, covering tablespoonfuls of the gravy and the
juice of one lemon. Serve hot. This
tightly, and let it simmer slowly and
constantly, with a regular fire,, for is the true CrSole Blanquette de
about two hours. Then add the ok- Veau, and it is a dish within the
ras, which have been tipped and reach of all.
sliced very thinly; let the mixture Veal.
Jellied
simmer for a half hour longer, and
serve. This is an excellent family Noix de Veau 8. la Gel6e.
dish. The Filet or Part of Lower Shoulder Blade
of Veal.
Veal Patties or Veal Loaf. 6 Peppercorns.
1 Blade of Mace.
Pate de Veau ou Pain de Veau. 2 Calves' Feet.
2 Large Onions. 2 Carrots.
3 Pounds of Veal Cutlets. 1 Gill of French Vinegar.
3 Yolks of Eggs, beaten light. a Crackers. 1 Dozen Cloves Mashed Fine.
1 Tablespoonful of Butter. -1 Allspice Mashed Fine.
Chopped Parsley, Thyme and Bay Leaf. 3 Quarts of Beef Broth.
Salt, Pepper and Cayenne to Taste. Cut the veal into fine pieces, sea-
Lean Ham. The Juice of 1 Lemon.
1 Pound of son well, and put it in a kettle with
Stew the and then powder the
veal, the calves' feet, and season highly
crackers very fine. Mince the cutlets, with pepper, Cayenne and salt to
Add three quarts beef
of
the herbs and the ham very fine. taste.
Season well with salt and pepper, broth,or "pot-au-feu." Add
the
and mix with the bread crumbs and minced vegetables, herbs and the
clove of garlic
Add a peppercorns, and let it boil gently
beaten eggs.
to the taste, desired; add juice of 1
if until it forms a jelly, which will be

lemon. With the whole form nice 'in about two and a half hours. Then
litte oaves of pie, shape, smooth over take out the veal and calves' feet,
the top with butter, brush with egg, and carefuly remove all the bones,
beaten well, sprinkle with crumbs, if any, and place in a mold. Let
and bake in a' moderate oven, placing the liquor in which it was boiled boil
a buttered paper over the pat6s. The until it is reduced to about a quart,
loaf may be formed whole and cut in adding, in the meantime, the good
thin slices and serve cold. vinegar. When reduced, pour over
88

the meat and set it in a cold place Veal Croquettes,


over night. When
turn out of cold,
Croquettes de Veau.
the mold and garnish nicely with
sliced lemon and parsley sprigs and 3-4 ot a Pound of Cold (Cooled) Veal.
serve in slices. 1 Small Onion. 1 Bay Leaf.
4' Sprigs of Parsley.
1 Large Tablespoonful of Butter.
Veal AVith Olives. 1. Onion. 1 Cup of Milk.
1 TeaspoonMl ot Salt.
Veau aux Olives. Cayenne and Pepper to Taste.
A Flank
of Veal. This is an excellent way of utiliz-
1 Slice of Cold Boiled Ham. ing left-over veal. Hemove all the
1 Grated Onion. 1 Hard-Boiled Egg. tough fibers and nerves. Hash the
1 Lemon. 1 Tablespoonful of Butter. veal w(;ll and season with the minced
1 Dozen Stoned Olives. vegetables and sweet herbs, mixing
all thoroughly. Then take a cup
This a very old-fashioned Creole
is of the soft of the bread, wet it and
dish. Get a flank of veal and cut it squeeze, and soak in milk, in which
into strips of about four inches in yoil have beaten two eggs. Mix all
length and four in Vi'idth. Cut off this with the meat very thoroughly
sufficient to make a half cup, and and season to taste. When well
chop this fine, with a slice of cold mixed, form the meat into cylindrical
boiled ham. Make a mince meat, shapes and brush with a little but-
adding chopped herbs, according to ter. Then roll in a beaten egg and
taste, 1 grated onion, 1 hard- boiled roll again in powdered bread crumbs.
egg, the juice of 1 lemon and a ta- Pry in boiling lard and serve hot on
blespoonful of butter, with a. half cup a plate garnished with fried parsley.
of bread crumbs. Take the strips of If made very carefully, it will be
veal, stuff them nicely with this mix- very difficult for anyone to discern
ture and roll over the ends, tying the difference between a Chicken
to prevent the farcie from escaping. Croquette and a Veal Croquette.
Place a tablespoonful of butter in a
frying pan, and, when it heats, add Calf's Head a la Poulette.
the rolls, of veal. Let them fry for Tete de Veau a, la Poulettei
ten minutes, turning, and then add
soup broth sufflcient to cover them. 1 Gait's Head. Tolk of
1 Egg.
Cover ci.isely and set back on the 1 Lemon. 2 Tablespoonfuls of Vinegar.
stove, and let them simmer steadily Sauce a la Poulette.
but slowly for an hour longer; then Clean and prepare the calf's head
place in a hot dish, pour the gravy as in the recipe given for "Calf's
over, seasoning highly; add about Head Soup." (See recipe.) Then
two dozen stoned olives, and pour boil it according to recipe. Cut one
over the rolls and serve. lemon fine and add to the boiling
calf head, which, it must be remem-
bered, is boiled simply in water, and
Veal Pot Pie.
salt and pepper. Add two table-
Vol-au-Vent de Veau. spoonfuls of good vinegar and let it
cook till done. This is either used
A Veal Brisket. to make a mock turtle soup or is
2 Slices of Breakfast Bacon or Ham. served with a Sauce a, la Poulette.
1 Tablespoonful of Butter. %
Dozen Potatoes. as follows: Make a Sauce a. la Poulette
Thyme, Bay Leaf and Parsley. (See recipe.) Put the calf's head in
Salt, Pepper and Cayenne to Taste. the sauce and let it boil for a halt
hour. Take the yolk of one egg and
This is a famous dish among the beat it as you would an omelet. Add
Creoles with large families. For a to the calf's head and serve. This
family of six, get a veal brisket, and will give the sauce a fine golden
allow three parts of minced veal to color.
one of ham. Calf's head may also be served with
Make a nice pie crust. (See Plain a Sauce AUemande. (See recipe.)
Paste.) Line a baking pan with this,
and bake in the oven. Cut the meat Calf's Head A la Tortne.
very fine, into, dice, and season high- Tete de Veau a,la Tortue.
ly, rubbing with the minced thyme,
1 Calf's Head. 2 Large Onions.
parsley, bay leaf, and salt and pep-
per and Cayenne. Stew the meat as
^ Can of Mushrooms. 1 Lemon.
Thyme and Bay Leaf.
in RagoQt de Veau a. la Bourgeoise. 1 Clove of Garlic. 1 Wineglass of Sherry.
Place in the pan. Dot the top with 1 Tablespoonful ot Butter.
bits of butter, and place over all a 2 Eggs. 1 Pint of Consomme or Water.
layer of pie crust, decorating the Slice the onions and mince the
edges nicely. Bake to a nice brown. garlic. Put the butter into a stew
Serve in the dish in which it was pot, and as it melts add the onions
nnnlrftr? ^rifVn qt.-.. i .^**
89

Add one tablespoonful of flour, sifted son again to taste. Fry for fivo
well, and, as this becomes brown, minutes, and serve with a Sauce aux
add one pint of consommg or water Beurre Noir. (See recipe.)
if you have not the broth. Then add
the chopped thyme and bay lefi-f and Calf's lilver Pried.
the peel of one lemon, cut very fine, Foie de Veau Sautfi i la Lyonnaise.
and the juice. Let all this simmer 1 Pound of Liver 2 Onions.
tor about ten minutes and then cut Tablespoonful of Lard or Butter,
1
up the calf's head and add it to the Salt and Pepper to Taste.
mixture. After fifteen minutes add
a. half can of mushrooms, and, in a
Slice the liver very fine into pieces
few minutes, one small glass of Sher- of about three inches in length and
ry wine. Let it all cook about ten one in widtli. Season well with salt
minutes, and then season well, ac- and pepper. Slice two onions very
cording to taste. Let all cook about fine and take a tablespoonful of lard
half an hour longer, and, when ready or butter and put into the frying pan.
to serve, place the calf's head in the When it heats, add the onions and. as
middle of the dish, pour the gravy they brown, place on top the slices
over and range the mushrooms of liver. Let them brown on one
around. Garnish them with the piec- side about two minutes and a half,
es of a flat omelet, which you have and then turn on the other. Let
made from the two eggs and cut into this side brown two minutes and a
diamond shapes, alternating with half longer and serve with the onion
toast buttered and cut into diamond- sauce, to which add a teaspoonful of
shaped Croutons. vinegar.
Tliere are many other ways of
serving calf's head, but these are the Calve's lilver a la Bonrgeolse.
standing Creole methcds. It is well Pole de Veau Sautfi k la Bourgeoise.
to repeat that a calf's head requires 1 Calf's Liver. 1 Carrot. 1 Onion.
about three hours to boil. 1 Turnip. 1 Tablespoonful of Butter.
1 Bay Leaf.
Calve's Brains Fried. 1 Pint of Broth or Water.
Cervelles de Veau Marinade. 1 Tablespoonful of Flour.
Salt and Pepper to Taste.
Calve's Brains. 1 Onion.
2 Sprigs of Parsley. 1 Bay Leaf- Wash liver and lard it well
the
Gi'ated Bread Crumbs. With n'feedles. Put a tablespoonful of
Plunge the brains into cold water lard of butter into the frying pan,,
to disgorge them of all .blood and re- and when hot, add .immediately the
move the fine skin and blood that onion, carrot and turnip, all sliced
surrounds them. Then blanch with very fine, and then the flne herbs,
scalding water. In flve minutes Jaka hicely minced. Let these brown, and
them out of the hot water and put add the liver. Pour over this about
them into a saucepan and cover with two spoons of White Wine or one of
cold water. Add a tiny onion, sliced Sherry. Add
aljout a pint of con-
fine; parsley and bay leaf, whole. somm boiling water.
or Season
Let them simmer gently for five min- highly, cover the saucepan well, set
tites. Then take from the fire and back on the fire, and let it simmer
drain. When cold, cut into pieces for about half an hour, and serve.
of a square inch and dip in a batter Fried lilver and Bacon.
or tomato sauce, and then in grated Foie de Veau Frit au Petit Sal6.
bread crumbs, patting gently. Drop
into boiling lard and fry to a golden 1 Pound of Calf's Liver.
brown. Take out and drain of grease Vn Pound of Breakfast Bacou.
and serve on a bed of fried parsley. % Teaspoonful of Salt.
1 Tablespoonful of Flour.
A garnish of boiled green peas is Black Pepper to Taste.
also very pretty and palatable.
Slice the liver into pieces of about
Calve's Brains, Brown Butter three inches in length and one-quar-
Sauce. ter of an inch in thickness; slice the
Cervelles de Veau au Beurre Noir.
bacon very thin, having as many
slices of the bacon as of the liver.
Calve's uralns. Put the bacon in the frying pan and
1 Tatlespoonful of Butter. fry brown; then place it in a heated
1 Small Onion. 1 Bay Leaf. dish and set over a pot of boiling
1 Sprig of Thyme. 1 Sprig of Parsley. water and cover to keep warm. Dust
Sauce aux Beurre Noir. the liver with flour, after having
Prepare the brains as mentioned seasoned well with salt and pepper
above by boiling, and then place in and fry it in the bacon fat. When it
a saucepan, with a tablespoonful of cooks about five minutes, ajlowing
butter. Cut up a tiny onion, and add two minutes and a half to each side,
also a sprig of thyme, bay leaf and take out and arrange on the same
parsley, alf minced very fine. Add dish with the bacon in alternate
to the butter, and then add the brains slices. Garnish nicely with parsley
cut in slices a half inch thick. Sea- and serve.
90

Calf's Feet, Plain. Calf's Feet, Sauce Reiuoulade.


Pieds de Veau au Naturel. Pieds de Veau t la Sauce Remoulade.
3 Calf's Feet.
3 Calfs Feet.
Sauce Remoulade, 1 Pint.
3 Quarts o Cold Water. 1 Gill of Vinegar.
2 Tablespoonfula of Flour. Prepare the feet as in the recipe
1 Oniou. 1 Carrot. for Calf's Feet Plain, and pour over,
12 Wbole Pepper Corns. when ready to serve, one pint of hot
2 Tablespoonfuls of Salt. Sauce Remoulade. (See recipe.)
1 Herlt Bouquet.
Calf's Feet, Italian Sauce.
Split each ot the calf's feet in two.
Then carefully remove the larger Pieds de Veau 3. la Sauce Italienne.
bones, and cut the meat into pieces 3 Calf's Feet.
of about one incli square. Soak well 1 Pint of _Sauc a I'ltalienne.
in fresh water for one hour. Then Prepare the feet as in the recipe
wash and drain thoroughly. Put two for "Calf's Feet, Plain," and serve
tablespoonfuls ot flour and three with one pint of Sauce 2- I'ltalienne.
quarts of cold water into a saucepan; (See recipe.)
stir well, mixing thoroughly; place
the feet in the mixture and add one SWEETBREADS.
onion (chopped fine), twelve whole
peppers, one carrot cut into fine Ris de Veau.
shreds; the herb bouquet and two Sweetbreads are the glands in the
tablespoonfuls of salt. Let the feet throat of a sucking calf. They are
boil briskly for about one hour. Take found in the throat of all very young
from the fire and arain well. They sucking animals, but are more con-
are now ready to serve with any siderable in the throat of the young
sauce that may be desired. calf, and even then at the largest are
seldom bigger than a man's flst
Calf's Feet A la Foulette.
doubled over. The sweetbreads are
Pieds de "Veau k la Poulette. the glands used by the calf in suck-
ing, and are only found In the young
Calf's Feet.
calf during the period when it is
1 Tablespoonful of Butter.
fed on its mother's milk. "When a
1 Tablespoonful of Sifted Flour.
calf is turned out to grass, the
1 Pint of Water. 14 Can of Mushrooms.
Yolk of 1 Egg. Juice of 1 Lemon.
sweetbreads, or inilk glands, be-
gin to grow smaller, ani in
Boil the calf's feet; then take out three or four days disappear,
the larger bones and cut in pieces of no longer standing out in a mass
about an inch suare. Prepare a of delicate flesh, but hanging long
Sauce a. la Poulette by putting one and soft and flabby. On account of
tablespoonful of butter in a sauce- their delicacy, sweetbreads have al-
pan, and, as it melts, add two table- ways been the object of particular
spoonfuls of sifted flour; add about attention of good cuisini6res, because,
one pint of the water in which the in a fine, fresh state and with prop-
calf's feet have been boiled. Stir er preparation they can be made not
well and throw in the calf's feet, only into a most delightful and pal-
sait and pepper to taste,, and, if de-
atable dish, but are, perhaps, the
sired, about a quarter of a can of
most r6cherch6 of all meat dishes.
chopped mushrooms. Let it boil At least, the sweetbreads have al-
about minutes, and then take
five
ways been so considered by the
off the stove and add the yolk of an
egg (beaten well), the juice of one French, who set the world the lesson
lemon, and serve.
of good eating hundreds of years
ago; and the Creole chefs of New Or-
Calf's Feet, Tomato Sauce. leans, improving upon old French
methods of cooking, as well as orig-
Pieds de Veau, Sauce Tomate. inating their own delicious combina-
tions, sustain the verdict of the gour-
3 Calf's Feet.
A Sauce a la Tomate (1 Pint.)
mets of the ancient mother country.
It is surprising what a diversity of
Prepare the feet as in the recipe definitions of sweetbreads are given
"Calf's Feet, Plain," and pour over, by educated people in America.
when ready to serve, a Sauce a, la Scarcely one person In ten, if the
Tomate. (See recipe.) question is put directly, can tell just
Calf's Feet, Planant Sauce. what a sweetbread is, and they can
scarcely be blamed, for the most dis-
Pieds de Veau, Sauce Plquante. tinguished lexicographers, from Web-
ster down to the compiler of the
3 Calf's Feet.
1 Pint or Sauce Plquante,
New Century, fail to give the correct
definition. "Webster defines sweet-
Prepare thecalf's feet as in recipe breads "as the pancreas of any ani-
for Feet, Plain," and add,
"Calf's mal," and defines "pancreas" as "a
when ready to serve, one pint of gland of the body, situated between
Sauce Piquajite. (See recine.l
the loins." The New Century's .defi- pancreas proper, or stomach gland.
nition is almost parallel. Every old Hence the very apt name which tliey
French dictionary (for it Was French have given to the sweetbread, "Ris de
cooks who first began to use the Veau"; it implies to all who have a
sweetbreads in cooking) define comprehension of this beautiful and
sweetbreads as the glands in the expressive language the soft, deli-
throat of any young animal, more cate, milky gland that is so dainty
generally the sucking calf, as these and rScherchS a dish in the most
latter are used exclusively in the elegant French and Creole homes.
preparation of sweetbread dishes. With this explanation, the Pica-
The old Creole gourmets have had yune "Cook Book" will now give the
infinite amusement over the defini- mpst delicious Creole modes of pre-
tions given by American dictionary "
paring this delectable dish.
makers, and, as for the ancient Cre-
ole butchers in the French Market, HoiY to Blanch Stveetbreads.
they curl their lips in scorn and tell
you Just to come down to the New Select three fine pairs of sweet-
Orleans Slaughter-House when the breads and clean and trim nicely.
calves are being killed, and they will Soak them for at least two ana a
show you the sucking calves, which half hours in cold fresh water, pour-
have sweetbreads, and the calves ing off the water from time to time
which have gone out to grass and in till three separate waters have been
whose throats the sweetbreads have used. About three-quarters of an
disappeared. If you quote Webster hour may be allowed for the first two
and the New Century, they will tell waters. Add a pincli of salt to each
you that a good butcher knows bet- water. After soaking for the time
ter than the dictionary maker where specified, drain the sweetbreads and
meats are concerned. place them in a saxicepan of cold
The Picayune feels constrained to water and set on the flre; add a half
give the definition of sweetbreads as teaspoonful of salt, and let the-m
a matter of correct information. The blanch till they come to a boil. Then
custom of calling the panacreas the drain and set them in cold water to
"sweetbreads" is accounted for by freslien. Drain thoroughly, press
our Creole butchers in this way: them into shape and lay on a nap-
The sweetbreads are very expensive, kin in a cool place. They are now
the smallest costing at least 25 cents ready for general use. The sweet-
apiece. To make a dish for six, al- breads should be pressed down gently
lowing one apiece, would, therefore, with a pound weight, in order to
cost $1.50, for sweetbreads alone, flatten well.
without other ingredients. Sweet-
Sn-eetbreads Larded \VIth Muslirooin
breads are not always to be found in
Sauce.
the market in quantity to supply the
demand. Large canning factories have Ris de Veau Piqu6 aux Champignons.
therefore, made it a practice to take 6 Sweetbreads. 1 Carrot.

the gland of the stomach of the calf, 4 Thin Slices of Bacon.


Onion. 1/4 Can of Mushrooms.
or pancreas, and prepare it in such 1

a way, by canning, that it partakes 1 Tablespoonful ot Floor.


1 Tablespoonful of Butter.
somewhat of the nature of a sweet- 1 Whole Sprig of Thyme. 3 Bay Leaves.
bread; and, as there is such wide-
1 Wineglass of Madeira or Sherry,
spread ignorance as to what a sweet- 1 Pint o Consomme.
bread really is, even among the most Salt and Pepper. Croutons.
fastidious epicureans of the United
States, the "pancreas" is passed off Soak the sweetbreads in clear, cold
as such, and is becoming gradually water as soon as I'rn come from mar-
accepted as such outside of the New ket, for they are so delicate that
Orleans market, where the old they spoil very easily. Wash well,
French or Gascon butcher scorns to to take off all the blood; wash again
sell you anything but the real sweet- in a clear cold water, and parboil
bread. He has too much respect for them for ten minutes. Then drain
the traditional cooking of his native them of all water, press them into
France and his own reputation as a shape and put them on a clean cloth
reliable butcher to do such a thing as on a table and cover with a plank
this. He laughs at the great big and put'a weight upon them to flat-
sweetbreads as large as a man's ten. When cold, clean with a knife,
hand, spread out to the full extent cutting off all the outside nerves,
and width, that come in cans labeled veins and fibers, witho'ut breaking
"Sweetbreads," and will tell you that the sweetbreads, however. Cut fat
no sucking calf In the world, unless lard into little strips like matches,
it had goitre, could have such a gland
and, with a larding needle, lard the
In the throat. The French, indeed, sweetbreads, slipping the needle in
use the term "Pancreas" in connec- on one side and bringing out on the
tion with sweetbread; but the word other. Lard each sweetbread eight
Is meant to imply in this significa- times. Then slice one onion and one
tion "toute chair," or "all flesh," and carrot very fine; mince three bay
has nothing in common with the leaves and a whole sprig of thyme.
Take a very thin slice of very fat Sweetbrcnds AVIth Trnflleii.
bacon, cut it into thin strips and Ris de Veau aux TrufCes.
cover tile bottom of the saucepan
with these. Lay the sweetbreads on 3 Pairs of Sweetbreads.
top and put on top of these the 4 Slices of Fat Bacon. %Can of TrufflM.
sliced onion, carrot and finely 1 Onion. 1 Carrot.
minced herbs, o^iit and pepper Glass of Madeira or Sherry Wine.
1
by sprinkling nicely. Cover tliis 1 Pint of Consomme or Water.
with a few fine strips of fat ba- 1 Tablespoonful of Flonr.
con. Cover the whole with a brown 1 Tablespoonful of Butter.
paper which has bsen well greased 3 Bay Leaves. 1 Sprig of Thyme.
with butter, and put the pan in a Salt and Pepper.
slow oven with the paper on top. Croutons.
Let the sweetbreads bake for about Prepare the sweetbreads in exact-
t"wenty minutes, basting occasion- ly the same manner as in the recipe
ally. In the meantim,e make a "Sweetbreads with Mushrooms."
Sauce a, I'Espagnole as foUovys: Chop When making the sauce, add a wine-
a fe"^v pieces of beef very fine, or glassful of Madeira or Sherry, and
else use good stock. If meat is used rne-half can of truffles cut in halves.
boil in about t"wo pints of water, Serve with the truffles as a gar-
Wlien it is reduced to about one nish about the sweetbreads. This is
pint, take off and strain. Take a a very expensive dish, very rgoherchS
tablespoonful of butter or lard, and and very elegant.
brown lightly with a tablespoonful
of flour. Then add the water and STvectbrends a la CrSiiie.
dissolve well, stirring constantly to Ris de Veau a, la CrSme.
prevent being lumpy. Add to this a
half can of mus.hrooms, and let it 3 Pairs of Sweetbreads.
simmer a few minutes, and then add 10 Mushrooms. 1% Tablespoonfuls of Butter,
a glass of Sherry or Madeira Wine. 1\^ Tablespoonfuls of Flour.
Let it cook rapidly, for about ten 1 Pint of Cream.
minutes. In the meantime, the sweet Clean and parboil the sweetbreads
breads will have been cooked to a for twenty minutes. Then remove
nicety. Take them out of the pan all veins and nerves, and chop the
and put one by one into the sauce, meat into pieces of about an inch
and let them cook ten minutes long- ,
and a half. Chop the mushrooms
,

er. Serve with buttered CroQtons cut very fine indeed. Put the butter in
in dice shapes. Sweetbreads are al- a saucepan, and, when it melts, add
ways served with fresh young green the flour, being careful not to let
peas. This is a famous Creole dish. it brown. When perfectly smooth,
add the- r^ilkand stir constantly until
SiveetbrenflM Willi Green Peas. it boils. Then add the chopped mush-
rooms and let thum simmer for five
His de Veau SautS aux Petit Pois. minutes. Season well to taste with
salt and
white pepper. Then add
3 Pairs of Sweetbreads. the sweetbreads and cook for five
1 Onion. 1 Carrot. 4
Slices of Vat Bacon. minutes longer and serve hot. At
1 Can of Frenci Petit Pois, or 1 Pint luncheons and diAners the Sweet-
of Fresh Young Green Peas. breads k la Crdme are served in small
silver shells or fancy paper cases.
3 Ba.T Leaves.
1 Srirlg of Thyme. 3 Cloves. Sweetbreads ft la Flnanel$re.
Vi Pint of Fresh Mills. 1 Pint of Consomma. Ris de Veau 3, la Financi^re.
Salt anil Pcjiper to Taste.
Croutons.
3 Pairs of Sweetbread %
Pound of Butter,
3 Carrots. 2 Sprigs of Thyme.
3 Bay Leaves.
Prepare the Sweetbreads in ex-
1 Pint of Beef Consomme or Water.
actly the same manner as Indicated
1 Pint of Rich Chlcjion Broth or Water.
in the above recipe, which is the
2 Truffles. 12 Mushrooms. 18 Stoned Ollvea.
very nicest way in which they can 12 Godlveau. Quenelles.
be served. Make the sauce as indi- 2 Blanched Chicken Livers.
cated, letting it brown slightly, and, A Half Pint of Madeira or Sherry Wine.
instead of the mushrooms, add a can A Dash
of Cayenne.
of French Petit Pois or a pint of Salt Pepper to Taste.
and
fresh young green peas that have al- Croutons Fried in Butter to Garnish.
ready been boiled well and drained Select fine, fresh Sweetbreads and
from all liquor. Place the sweet- prepare as in the recipe for Sweet-
breads in one by one and let them breads Larded With Mushrooms.
cook for ten minutes longer and Parboil for twenty minutes; then
serve with the sweetbreads placed drain of all water; press them into
in the center of the dish, and the shape, lay on a clean napkin and cov-
green peas around them as a gar- er with a plank and place a weight
nish. upon them to press and make solid.
93

Take a piece of fine salt pork, and of four eggs that have been well
cut into little thin strips like matclies beaten, and a half tablespoonful of
and lard the Sweetbreads with this, butter. Sprinkle with finely-chopped
using a very- fine larding needle, and parsley, pour over the sweetbreads
following implicitly the direction and serve.
given in the recipe for Sweetbreads
Larded With Mushroom Sauce.- Lard SweetbroailH In CasHeroIcn.
Ris de Veau en Casseroles, ou Vol-
each Sweetbread eight times. Then
take a shallow saucepan and piil au-Vent.
within a half pound of butter. When 3 Pairs of Sweetbreads.
the butter melts, lay in the Sweet- Vi, Cau of Slushrooms.
breads, one by one. Season with 2 Dozen Oysters.
1 Glass of Slierry Wine.
salt and ptpper very lightly, and add
the three carrots, sliced fine, and
A Sauce a la Poulette.
the onion, sliced very fine. Add the Parboil the Sweetbreads in ex-
finely minced thyme and bay leaves. actly the same manner as in the
Butter a piece of brown paper and above recipe for Sweetbreads a la
cover the saucepan; then set in the Poulette. Six sweetbreads will suf-
oven and let the Sweetbreads cook fice. Cut them inio dice pieces af-
ter parboiling; add a quarter of a
slowly till they are of a bright
golden brown. From time to time can ot finely-chopped muslirooms to
uncover the saucepan and turn the the sauce, and a glass of Sherrv
wine. Take two dozen oysters and
Sweetbreads, so that all portions of
cut in pieces, taking off all the hard
them may be evenly colored. When portions. Add the chopped sweet-
they have reached this beautiful col-
or add one pint of good beef broth
breads to the sauce, and, after ten
minutes, add the oysters. Let them
(Consomme or Bouillon), and let cook for five minutes, have ready a
them simmer foj a half or tliree- pan filled with a rich vol-au-vent
quarters of an hour. When nearly
crust, pour the mixture in and serve.
ready to serve, prepare a Sauce a, la
Or make the vol-au-vent crust, which
FinanciSre as follows: Take two is very diflicult (see recipe), into
tablespoonfuls of butter, melt and
small shells; bake and fill witli the
remove from the fire, and add grad-
sweetbreads. This is an elegant
ually a tablespoonful ot flour;- blend
disli for fashionable luncheons, but
well with a wooden spoon till very
quite above the ordinary household-
smooth, and moisten with one pint
of rich chicken broth and set on the
er's purse. The sweetbreads are
generally served in caseroles or fan-
fire. Add the truffies, nicely sliced; cy cases.
a dozen and a half stoned olives;
the blanched chicken livers, cut in S^reetbreads Crtsplncitcn.
pieces; the mushrooms, nicely Crfipinettes de Ris de Veau.
chopped; a half pint of Madeira or
3 of Sweetbreads.
Pairs
Sherry Wine, salt and pepper to Onion. 1 Bay
Leaf. 1 Sprig of Thyme.
1
taste, and a dash of Cayenne or , %Clove ot Garlic.
Tabasco. Let the sauce cook for 1 Tablespoonful Butter.
twenty minutes. should be of the
It 1 Teaspoonful ot Prepared Mustard.
consistency of rich cream. Place the
sauce in a round dish, lay the Sweet- Clean and parboil the sr.'eetbreads
as already shown in recipe. Chop
breads over it, garnish with the Go- an onion very fine and place it in a
diveau Quenelles and CroQtons fried saucepan with a tablespoonful of
In butter and send to the table hot.
butter. Let them simmer without
Sweetbreads Ik la Poulettc.
browning; add one bay leaf, one
sprig of thyme, one-half clove of
Ris de Veau a. la roulette. garlic, a teaspoonful of prepared
mustard, and mix well. Then add
3 Pall's of Sweetbreads. a pint of water and stir well; then
The Yolks ot 4 Eggs. Tlie Juice of 1 Lemon. add the sweetbreads which have been
1/4 Tablespoonful of Butter. chopped very fine and formed into-
Chopped Parsley to Garnish. "Crgpinettes," or little fringed balls,
A Sauce a la Poulette. by patting with the hand; let them
simmer, for about fifteen minutes
Parboil the Sweetbreads for about
longer. Serve with any sauce, prefi
twenty minutes, then make a Sauce erably a Cream Sauce. (See recipe
Si la Poulette (see recipe), adding the
under chapter "Sauces for Fish,
juice of one lemon and seasoning to
Meats, etc.")
taste. But do not add the eggs till
the sauce has been taken from the Frieil Sireetbreads Breaded.
fire or it will curdle. When the Ris de Veau Panfies.
sauce ismade, place the sweetbreads 3 Pairs ot Sweetbreads.
in it, one by one, and let it come to 1 Egg. Grated Bread Crumba.
the boiling point. Then remove A Cream Sauce.
from the fire and stir in the yolks Wash and parboil the sweetbreads
94

and then trim oft all tendons and a very distinct manner peculiar to
nerves. Cut into pieces of about two New Orleans, and are elegant en-
inches long and roll first in a well- tries at the most distinguished
beaten egg and then in bread crumbs. 'feasts.
Drop into boiling fat and fry till a TRIPE.
golden brown. Serve with a Cream Tripe.
Sauce.
Broiled STveetlireads. Tripe,which is the large stomach
of ruminating animals, is generally
Ris de Veau GrillSes. cleaned, scraped, bleached and pre-
3 Pnlra of Sweetbreads. parde by the butchers before it is
2 TablespooDtuls o( Melted Butter. sold. It is nutritious and digestible.
Salt and Pepper to Taste. To prepare the tripe properly tor
Parboil the sweetbreads and then cooking, wash it carefully in several
remove all nerves. Cut into halves. waters. When thoroughly clean, put
Brush with melted butter and place it in a kettle of cold water; add' one
on the gridiron. Broil nicely, and, tablespoonful of salt and one of vin-
when well colored, take off, pour egar, and let the tripe boil for five
melted butter over them, season hours at least. In the meantime,
again, and serve very hot. This is a pared by the butchers before it is
delicious breakfast dish. always best, if tripe is to be used
for breakfast to prepare it and give
SweethTeuiS^ Smothered. the long boiling the day before.
Ris de Veau Braissgs. Drain thoroughly. Then it is ready
for preparation according to any of
3 Pairs of Sweetbreads.
2 Tablespoonluls of Butter.
the following recipes:
1 Carrot. 1 Onion.
Stewed Tripe.
2 Sprigs of Thyme. 2 Bay LcaTCB.
1 Pint of Consomme or Water. Tripe Sautge.
Salt and Pepper to Taste.
2 Pounds of Prepared Tripe.
Prepare the Sweetbreads as in the 1 Tablespoonful of Butter.
recipe for "Sweetbreads Larded With 1 Tablespoonful of Flour.
Mushrooms." Put them into a sauce- 1 Sprig of Parsley. 1 Bay Ijeaf.
pan with two tablespoonfuls of but- % Clove of Garlic. %
Pint of Milk.
ler, and let them brown slightly. Chopped Parsley to Garnish.
Add a finely-sliced carrot and onion
and the minced herbs. Season light- Take the prepared tripe and out
ly with salt and pepper. Cover the into strips of about one finger length
saucepan with a buttered paper, and and a half inch In width. Put a ta-
then cover closely. Occasionally un- blespoonful in a saucepan; add a fine-
cover and turn the Sweetbreads till ly-sliced onion, a sprig of parsley
they are all browned evenly to a and a bay leaf, minced. Stir in the
nice golden brown. When they have melted butter without letting it
reached this color, add the pint of brown, then add a tablespoonful of
Consomme or water .and cover again flour. Stir well and add a pint of
and let them simmer for about twen- milk. Stir constantly till it comes to
ty minutes. They are now ready t(^ a boil, seasoning to the taste with
serve with any kind of sauce or gar- salt and pepper. Then add the well-
nish that may be desired. In serv- seasoned tripe and let it cook over
ing sweetbreads thus prepared, al- a raioderate fire for about five min-
ways place the sauce on the dish, first utes.
having the dish very hot; lay the Stetred Tripe a la liyonnalse.
Sweetbreads over the sauce, garnish
nicely "with fried Crotitons and serve.
Tripe a. la Lyonnaise.
Sweetbreads thus prepared may be 2 Pounds of Prepared Tripe.
served with a Sauce S. I'Oiselle, Sauce 1 Tablespoonful of Butter.
Salpicon, Sauce k la Soubise, Sauce 1 Tablespoonful of Flour.
a. la Bearnaise, Sauce a la Duxelle, 1 Sprig of Parsley. 1 Bay Leaf.
Sauce aux Gourmets, with a Pur6e % Clove of Garlic.
of Spinach, or with hot Cr#pes. The Juice of 1 Lemon, or a Teaspoontnl
of Vinegar.
Observations. Chopped Parsley to Garnish.
There are many other ways of Place a tablespoonful of butter in
serving Sweetbreads. We have "Ris a saucepan and add one chopped on-
de Veau ft I'Espagnole," "Ris de Veau ion, one carrot, finely sliced; a sprig
en Coquilles," etc., for the Creoles each of thyme, parsley, bay leaf and
have infinite variety in serving al- saltand pepper. Let it brown slight-
most every dish. But the above are ly and place the tripe on top, and ad-
the recipes in most general use, and ding a half clove of garlic, minced
the recipes "Sweetbreads Larded with very fine. Sprinkle with chopped
Mushrooms," Sweetbreads with Green parsley and add the Juice of one
Peas" and "Sweetbreads with Truf- lemon. Let it all simmer for a few
fles" cannot be too highly recom- minutes and theii add a half cup of
mended. These preparations are In broth or hot water. Season to the
95

tast, let it simmer for twenty min- ham very fine, and add. Take two
utes longer and serve. cloves of garlic, chopped fine, with
'
three sprigs each of thyme and bay
Tripe a la Fonlette. leaf, minced very fine. Put in a
Gras-Double a, la Poulette. saucepan, and let all brown. Then
add about twelve large, fresh toma-
2 Pounds of Tripe. toes, or the contents of a two-pound
2 Tablespoontuls of Butter.
can. Season all to taste with salt
1 Tfiblespoonful of Flour.
and Cayenne pepper. Let it cook for
1 Sprig of Parsley. 1 Bay Leaf.
ten minutes, and then add the tripe,
The Yolks of 2 Eggs.
A Sauce a la Foulette. and let all smother for twenty-five
minutes. Season to taste, and serve
Having- prepared the tripe accord- hot.
ing to the directions given under the
heading of "Tripe," make a rich , Tripe a la Mode de CaSn,
Sauce a, la Poulette, always omitting
the eggs till later. (See recipe.) Gras-Double &. la Mode de Caen.
Take eight small white onions that
have already been boiled in plain 3 Pounds of Tripe. 3 Onions. 3 Carrots.
water until they are perfectly ten- 1 Dozen Whole Bay Leaves.
der, and add to the sauce. Let them 1 Dozen Whole Cloves.
stew for about five minutes. Then 1 Doaen Whole Allspice.
add the tripe, which has been cut into 3 Cloves of Gai-lie (whole.)
pieces of three inches in length, and 1 Ounce of Thyme (whole.)
one-half inch in Tvidth, and stew the 2 Dozen Pieces of Bacon 2 Inches Square.
whole gently fsr ffbout a half hour. % Bottle of White Wine.
1 Cup of Broth or Water.
Take off the fire and add the beaten Salt, Cayenne and Chill Pepper to Taste.
yolks of two eggs, stirring constantly
and serve hot. Take three pounds of tripe. Cut
Pried Tripe. the tripe into pieces of about two
Tripe Frite. inches square. Slice three onions
and three large carrots very fine.
2 Pounds of Tripe. Take one dozen whole bay I'^aves.
1 Egg. Grated Bread Crumbs. one ounce of thyme, whole; one doz-
Parsley and Lemon to Garnish. en whole cloves, and the same num-
Prepare the tripe, boil well, and ber of allspice, three whole cloves of
cut into pieces of three inches in garlic, two dozen pieces of very thin
length and one in width. Roll it in bacon cut into pieces of two inches
a beaten egg and then roll in grated square. Have ready a two-gallon
bread crumbs. Drop in boiling lard earthen jar that can stand baking in
and fry to a golden brown. (See di- an oven. Put in the bottom of the
rections for frying.) Take off the jar a thin layer of butter. Place on
fire and place on a bed of fried par- top a thin -layer of bacon, then a
sley and garnish with sliced lemon. thin layer of onions, carrots, bay
Serve with a Sauce Piquante or a leaves, thyme, garlic, spices, divid-
Sauce Poivrade. (See recipe for ing into two equal portions the
meat sauces.) whole amount. Sprinkle over the
whole salt, Cayenne and Chili pep-
Tripe & la Creole, per. On top of this lay one-half of
Gras-Double a. la Creole. the tripe. Over the tripe place a
layer of bacon; then vegetables, sea-
2 Pounds of Tripe. sonings, etc. Over this place another
12 Tomatoes, or a 2-Pound Can. layer of tripe, and remnants of
2. Onions. 1 Tablespoonful of Butter. thyme, bay leaf, vegetables, bacon,
1 Square Inch of Lean Ham. etc., as below, this being the lat
2 Cloves of Garlic. layer. Pour over all a half bottle of
3 Sprigs Each of Thyme and Bay Leaf. White Wine and one cup of broth or
Salt and Pepper to Tast*. water. Cover the jar closely with a
A
Dash of Cayenne. layer of Pie Paste (PatS Bris6e^-
see recipe), set in a very moderate
Clean the tripe well, and boil till oven, and let it cook slowly for at
tender. Cut it into slices of about least five hours of constant, steady
two inches long and half an inch cooking. Tills Is a very rgcherchS
old-fashioned Creole dish, and very
wide. Take two onions and slice excellent. Some add to the tripe a
them fine, and a tablespoonful of small quantity of calf's head or feet.
butter. Put in a saucepan together In making this dish you will need lit-
and let them smother well. Then tle else for dinner besides a soup or
chop about one inch sqquare of lean gumbo. >
CHAPTER XIV.

MtJTTOX.

Du Mouton

The leg, shoulder and loiri of the it, and one generally used by th-
mutton are used as roasting pieces. Creoles, is to put a circle of nicely-
The brisket and neck are used for boiled and browned turnips aroTOid,
soups and stews, and from the loins the dish, and serve with the gravy ol
are cut the delicate French chops the mutton.
or cutlets of mutton. Mutton Is so
susceptible of elegant seasoning, and Roast Saddle of Mutton,
so easily impregnated with the dif-
rerent aromatic herbs used in cook- Selle de Mouton Rotie.
ing that it becomes not only most
agreeable to the taste, but tender A Saddle 'of Mutton.
ami very easily digested. Salt and Pepper to Taste.
Currant Jelly.

Something to Remember in Cooking A


saddle of mutton is two loins.
Mutton. Proceed to roast in exactly the same
manner as for a single leg. Serve
Remember that mutton must never with Currant Jelly.
be fried. You will hear of mutton
chops .breaded, and mutton chops Roast Loin of Mutton.
en papilotte, in imitation of the ways
of cooking veal chops, but the Cre- Filet de Mouton Roti.
oles very wisely and very sensibly re-
frain from cooking mutton in any A Filet of Mutton.
other ways than those given -in this Salt and Pepper to Taste.
book. No good Creole cook will eat Garnish of Green Peas.
a fried mutton chop.
The filet of mutton is a square cut
Roast Leg of Mutton. from the loin. Proceed to dredge
with salt and pepper, and roast in.
Gigot Roti. exactly the same manner as leg of
mutton. The Creoles serve the fllet
1 Leg of Mutton. very often with a garnish of green
Salt aud Pepper to Taste. peas (Petit Pois) piled around.
Select a fine, tender leg of mutton.
Wipe thoroughly with a damp towel Boiled Leg of Mutton, Caper Sauce.
and dredge with and pepper,
sa.lt
thoroughly rubbing, so that the meat Gigot de Mouton Bouilli, Sauce aux.
Capres.
may be penetrated by the seasoning.
Place the mutton in a baking pan, set 1 Leg of Mutton. 1 Herb Bouquet.
in a quick oven and bake, basting Salt and Pepper to Taste.
every ten minutes or so, allowing A Caper Sauce.
twelve minutes to every pound. The
mutton must never be overdone but Rub the leg of mutton well with
underdone. The Creoles always serve salt and pepper. Have ready a pot
it rare. It will require no larding, of boiling water, into which you have-
for the meat is rich and soon makes thrown the herbs, bay leaf, salt and
sufficient juice to allow frequent pepper, allowing a teaspoonful eacli-
basting. To ascertain if done, press of the two latter ingredients. Put
with the fingers or stick with a the leg of mutton into the water,-
fork; the juice will spurt out, and it being very careful to have it well
Is then ready to serve. Decorate the covered with water, else the meat
bone with a quilling of white paper, will blacken. Let it boil gently but
and serve in its own sauce. The dish steadily, allowing fifteen minutes to-
on which mutton is placed must al- every pound of meat. When done,
ways be very hot, as alsd the plates place on a dish and serve with a
on which it is to be served. Caper Sauce. In serving slice nicely
Avoid thickening the gravy with and put a few drops of lemon on
flour. No practice is more reprehen- each slice, and pour over the Caper-
sible. If well cooked, the juice will sauce. (See recipe Caper Sauce.)
almost spurt from the leg before it Mutton thus prepared is also serve*
is carved. A very nice way to serve with a Purfee of Turnips.
97

Mutton SteTT. and let the mutton juice permeate


Ragotlt de Mouton aux Pommes de the vegetables and brown them. Then
Terre. add the minced bay leaves and cloves;
cover and let these brown, and after
I
4 Founds of the Brisket of Mutton.
ten minutes add one quart of boil-
6 Irish Potatoes.
3 Large Onions. 1 Bay Iaf.
ing water. Season well again and
set on a steady fire, allowing fifteen
M
Clove of Gallic.
minutes to every pound. An hour
V4 Tablespoonful of Lard.
2 Quarts of Water. before serving add six whole tur-
1 Sunare Tnch of Hnm,-. Oliopped Very rine. nips, which have been peeled and
Salt and Pepper to Taste. parboiled, and let these remain
Cut the mutton into pieces of about smothered with the mutton. Serve
an Inch square and season well with with the turnips as a garnish. This
salt and pepper. Put one-quarter of dish is highly recommended.
a tablespoonful of lard into the stew- Broiled Mutton Chops.
pot, and when it melts add the thinly
sliced Let these brown for
onions. Cotelettes de Mouton GrillSes et
a few minutes and then add the PanSes.
mutton and the ham, chopped very 6 Mutton Chops.
fine. Let this continue browning', Butter. Salt and Pepper.
and when slightly browned, add one
tablespoonful Inselecting mutton chops for
of finely sifted flour broiling, remember that the smaller
and stir well. Then add the finely-
minced bay leaf and a half clove of French chops, which are cut from the
breast of the mutton, are generally
'garlic, minced fine. Brown lightly, served at dinner, and the loin chops
for a mutton stew must never be
for breakfast. The breast chops are
dark. After twenty minutes, add two
daintier in appearance, but the loin
quarts of boiling water and let it
boil about ten minutes longer,
for
chops are sweeter and the meat is
seasoning to taste. Then add the more solid. The French chops should
potatoes, cut into halves, and let
always be cut thinner than the. loin
the mixture cook for three-quarters chops.
of an hour longer, making one hour
Season the chops well with salt
and a half in all. Let it simmer and pepper and brush with melted
butter and a few bread crumbs. Have
gently all the time, so that the meat
the gridiron very hot and place the
may be perfectly tender. chops upon it. In a few seconds
Mntton Ste^TWitU Turnips. turn the chop and let this side cook.
Ragoflts de Mouton aux Navets. The blood will be running out, and
the chop is done. Place on a plat-
4 Pounds of the Brisliet of Mntton. ter, butter thickly and sprinkle with
6 Turnips. 3 Large Onions. chopped parsley and serve very hot.
1 Bay Leaf. %
Clove of Garlic.
Tablespoonful of Lard.
Vi Mutton Cutlets. )
2 Quarts of Water.
1 Square Inch of Ham, Chopped Very Fine. Cotelettes de Mouton, '

Salt and Pepper to Taste. 4 Mutton Cutlets. ;


Butter. Salt and Pepper.
Cut the mutton into pieces of about
an inch in length and thickness, and The cutlets are slices from the
season well. Proceed to make the thick part of the leg of the mutton
stew as mentioned above, only in- and are very excellent eating. Trim
stead of adding the potatoes, add off the outer skin and broil in the
turnips parboiled, and cut into halves same manner as mutton chops. They
or quarters. This is a very delicious are very delicious served for din-
stew. The neck of the mutton may ner with a garnish of PurSe of Spin-
also be used for stews, but preferably ach. (See recipe.)
the brisket. Mutton Chops, Brefrer's Style.
Slionlder of IHntton Smothered With Cotelettes de Mouton k la Brasseur.
Turnips.
i Mutton Chops. 2 Tablespoonfuls of Butter.
jfipaule de Mouton Braisfie. Juice of Lemon.
1 Shoulder of Mutton. 3 Shallots. Chopped Pine.
Salt and Pepper to Taste.
1 Carrot. 1 Onion. % scaiK nf rc'er.r.
4 Cloves. 1 Bay Leaf. 6 Turnips. Select six thick chops from the loin
If the mutton does not appear very of the mutton. Trim neatly and sea-
tender the process of smothering it son well with salt and black pepper
will make it so. It is well to beat and a dash of Cayenne. Rub lightly
the leg well with a rolling pin, and with butter on either side and broil
you will be sure of good and tender on a hot charcoal fire. Have ready
eating. Season well. Slice an on- hot dish and pour over the chops
a-
ion and one carrot very fine; chop a sauce
of melted butter, seasoned
fine a half stalk of celery, and put nicely with salt and pepper, the juice
these, with the shoulder of mutton. of one lemon and three minced shal-
Into a deep baking pot. Cover well lots. Serve hot.
Mutton Hash. beaten well, stirring well into the
sauce. Serve hot. Many of the
Hachis de Mouton. Creoles add a half can of mushrooms
to the mutton feet before putting in
3 Cups o Hashed Mutton. the sauce. This makes the dish very
6 Potatoes. 1 Herb Bouquet. delicious, increasing the flavor.
Salt and Pepper to Taste.
1 Tablescpoonful o Lard or Butter.
Mutton Feet ft la liyonnalae,
This a splendid way of utilizing
is
the left-over mutton. After having Pieds de Mouton a, la Lyonnaise.
taken oft all the rough edges of the
roast and cut out the gristle and hard 12 Mutton Feet.
membrane, hash the mutton into 2 Onions. Tablespoonful of Butter,
1

pieces of about one Inch in size. Take 1 Tablespoonful of Flour.


six left-over tomatoes, or freshly 1 Pint of Broth. Salt and Pepper to Tastt
boiled, and cut into quarters. Chop Croutons.
fine one herb bouquet. Place a ta-
blespoonful of butter or a half ta- Clean and boil the mutton feet In
blespoonful of lard into the stew- the same way as
indicated in the
pot, and as it melts add the mutton above recipe. When
done take out
seasoned well, and a few minutes the large bones and cut the feet into
later the fine herbs. Mince the clove two-inch pieces. Cut two onions
of garlic if the flavor is liked and very flne, mincing them, and brown
add. Stir constantly without brown- in a saucepan with a tablespoonful
ing much, and add a tablespoonful of
of butter. When slightly brown, add
a tablespoonful of flour. Mix well,
flour. Let this brown very slightly making a nice Brown Roux (see re-
and then add the tomatoes. Cover cipe under chapter on "Sauces for
and let all simmer for about twenty Meats, Pish, etc.") and then add about
minutes, and then pour over a pint a pint of the broth in which the mut-
bf boiling water. Season again to ton feet have been boiled. As it
boils, skim off the grease and let
taste and set back on the stove and it simmer for about ten minutes.
let it simmer gently for about Then add the mutton feet and let
three-quarters of an hour. Cut some them simmer ten minutes longer and
Croutons and fry them in butter; serve hot, with Croiltons of bread
place on a dish and serve with the fried in butter. Mutton feet may
hash. The Creoles often add several also be served with a Purfie of On-
poached eggs if the sauce is not thick ions. (See recipe.)
enough. It is also a frequent custom Stuffed Mutton F"et.
to add a quarter or a half can of
mushrooms to the hash, but this is Pieds de Mouton Parois.
always a matter of taste and econo-
my. 12 Mutton Feet. % Cup of Wet Bread.
1 Hard-Boiled Egg. 1 Spoon of Batter.
Mutton Feet a la Poulette.
1 Tablespoonful of Lard.
Pieds de Mouton S, la Poulette. 3 Thin Slices of Veal.
1 Bay Leaf. 1 Sprig of Thyme.
32lluttonFeet.
A Sauce a la Greme. 3 Carrots. 2 Onions.
The Juice of 1 Lemon. The Juice of 1 Lemon.
H Teaspoonful of French Vinegar. Salt and Pepper to Taste.
1 Gill of Water. The Yolks of 2 Eggs.
^ Can of Mushrooms (if desired.) Clean the mutton feet well, accord-
ing to directions given, and boil and
This is a famous Creole dish. Scald take out all the bones. Take a half
the mutton feet in boiling water and cup of wet bread and squeeze well.
remove every vestige of wool that Season well with salt and pepper and
may adhere, cleaning and scraping fry in a little butter and add a
the feet. Then place them in a pot, chopped egg. Stuff the feet with
this, splitting down the length and
cover well with boiling water, add sewing up to prevent the dressing
half of a lemon (including peel and escaping. Take a saucepan and put
meat) to the water, and salt well. in one tablespoonful of lard and lay
In the meantime, prepare a Sauce over it thin slices of veal, well sea-
a la Poulette as follows: Make a soned, and one bay leaf, one spng
Cream Sauce (see recipe Meat of thyme and geranium (minced very
Sauces) and add the juice of one lem- fine), three chopped carrots, and two
onion's (chopped very fine). Po^J
on, or half a tablespoonful of good
over this the juice of a lemon, let it
vinegar. Take the mutton feet out simmer gently for about a half hour,
of the water in which they have turning the veal, that it may cook
been boied, take out the big bones well and be thoroughly penetrated
from the feet. Put the mutton feet by the juices. Put the stuffed "t"

Into the Sauce 9. la Poulette, add a ton feet on top, cover closely, and
let all simmer for a half hour longer.
gill of water, let all simmer about
five minutes, and then take off the
Then unsew the mutton feet, lay
them on the slices of veal, garnisn
fire and add the yolks of two eggs. nicely and serve with a Sauce a. I'Es-
99

pagnole, Bauoe aux Tomates, a Sauce fried parsley. A garnish of boiled


aux .pgnons, or Sauce a, la Proven- green peas is also very pretty and'
gale. The latter two are highly reo-
"
palatable.
ommeded.
Tongues Smotliered.
Slieep Sheep Brains, Brown Sauce,
Langues de Mouton Braisfies. Cervelles de Mouton, au Beurre Noir.

6 Tongues. Large Onion, Out Fine,


1
Prepare the brains in exactly the
2 Cut Fine.
Carrots, s'ame manner as indicated in the
1 Herb Bouquet, Minced Very Fine. above recipe and serve with Brown
f Flclsles. ^a Cup ot Capers.
of Butter Sauce. .(See recipe.)
1 Pint of Boiling Water.
2 Slices of Bacon. Sheep Kidneys,
Scald and blanch the tongue re- Rognons en Brochettes.
moving the skins. Throw them into
6 Kidneys.
cold water. Dry and piqu6 or lard
1 Tablespoonful of Butter.
very delicately with larding needles.
Season well with salt and pepper. Slice the kidneys very thin and
Slice the bacon into fine strips and wash well, then scald and wipe dry.
lay in the bottom of a saucepan; Pass a skewer through each kidney,
place the lamb tongues over this. after seasoning well, and brush with
Place on top another fine layer of melted butter. Place on a double
bacon in very fine strips. Add the broiler and cook for five minutes,
minced carrots, onion, herbs, and salt allowing two and a half minutes to
and pepper again to taste. Let it each side. Place on a hot dish and
simmer for about fifteen minutes and pour over melted butter and a little
then moisten w^ith about a pint of lemon juice. Garnish nicely with
.

boiling water or broth. Let it- cook parsley and serve hot.
over a slow fire about three hours.
Then take out the tongues, place LAIUB,
them on a hot dish, -strain the sauce
through a sieve, set back on the Agneau.
stove a few seconds, and add one- Lamb is in season from April to
quarter of a cup of capers, and three September. Like very young veal,
pickles, sliced fine. Stir well and it is unwholesome and tasteless if
let it boil up once. Povir over the eaten too young. A lamb should al-
tongues and serve. ways be two months old, else it will
Lamb tongues are prepared in the be what the Creoles call "une viande
same manner when braised or smoth- gSlaineuse," or a jelly meat not fit
ered. to eat and very difficult to manage.
The best way to cook lamb is to
Sheep Brains, roast it or bake it. The loin of
the lamb is cut into 'chops; the
Cervelles de Mouton. brains, tongue, cutlets, tendons and
Pound ot Brains. feet are cooked in the same manner
Vi
1 Onion. 1 Bay Leaf. as those of sheep, and it would be
Grated Breadcrumbs. superfluous to repeat the recipes.
Parsley to Garnish. Stewed Lambs' Tongues, or 'Lang-
ues d'Agneau SautS," served with a
The brains of mutton are pre- Sauce Tomate, or a Sauce a la Tar-
pared in exactly the same manner as tare, is an excellent entree, or lunch-
calf's brains and served accordingly. eon dish.
(See recipe). But the brains of mut-
ton are far more delicate, and, con- Roast Iiamh, Mint Sauce.
sequently, considered a more rficher-
ch6 dish. Quartier d'Agneau Roti, Sauce
Plunge the brains into' cold water Menthe.
to disgorge them of all blood and re- The Hind Quarter of a Lamb.
move the fine skin and blood that Salt and Pepper to Taste.
surround them. Then blanch with Parsley to Garnish. Mint Sauce.
scalding water. In five minutes
take them out of the hot water and This is the standing dish for the
put them into a saucepan and cover Easter dinner in New Orleans. Select
with cold water. Add a tiny onion, a fine, fresh, white hind-quarter of
sliced fine, parsley and a whole bay lamb. Boast in exactly the same
leaf. Let them simmer gently for manner as indicated In "Roast Leg
five minutes. Then take from the of Mutton" (see recipe), only allow
,flre and drain. When cold cut into about twenty minutes to the pound
pieces of a square inch and dip In a in cooking. Serve with garnish of
batter or tomato sauce, and then in parsley and a Mint Sauce. (See re-
grated bread crumbs, patting gently. cipe.)
with
Drop into boiling lard and fry to Roast Lamb is alw?iya,.served
a".solden brown. Take out and drain fresh, young green peas and aspara-
.off "grease, and serve, on a bed of gjis tips..
100

Roast Lamb ft la Bearnalse. always eaten rare. To ascertain if


sufficiently done, stick a fork into
Agreau Roti a, la Bearnaise. the filet; if the blood bubbles out,
it Is ready to serve. The meat, when
The Hind Quarter of a Lamb.
done, is always spongy and elastic to
3 Sprigs Each of Thyme, Parsley and Bay
Leaf. the touch.
6 Minced Shallots. In the meantime, prepare the fol-
1 Tablespoonfal of Butter. lowing Brown Sauce: Take one ta-
Cup of Grated Bread Crumbs.
1 blcspoonful of butter and one ol
Tie Juice of 1 Lemon. Glace (see recipe under chapter
Parsley and Sliced Lemon to Garnish. "Sauces for Meats, Fish, etc.") and
three of water, smoothly rubbed, and
Select a fine, white hind-quarter of
the Iamb; lard it in the same man- melt in a saucepan, stirring con-
stantly to prevent burning. When
ner as griven for larding "Roast Filet
of Beef." (See recipe.) Rub well brown, add one glass of Madeira or
Sh-erry Wine and-a half -cup-Of water,
with butter on top and sprinkle over .

thickly with the soft of bread crumbs,


Season well with salt and pepper.
minced parsley, thyme, bay leaf, salt Pour over the fllet, which must be
placed in a hot dish, and serve with
and pepper and minced shallots. Set fresh, young green peas.
In the stove and cover with a but-
tered brown
paper. Let it roast; al- Fllet of Lamb ft la Bechamel.
lowing eighteen or twenty minutes
to the pound, in a quick oven, and, Filet d'Agneau t la Bechamel.
when done, take off the paper A Filet of Lamb.
sprinkle again lightly with grated A Sauce a la Bechamel.
bread crumbs; let it brown and set Roast the lamb as in the manner
in a hot dish; sprinkle over with given, and prepare a "Sauce 3. la
lemon juice; garnish the dish with Bechamel." (See recipe.) Slice the
sprigs of parsley and sliced lemon, lamb and pour over the sauce and
and serve, carving in slices and plac- serve. This is considered an excel-
ing a quarter of a lemon on each lent entrfie.
plate.
Broiled Lamb Chops.
Filet of Lamb Roasted anil Lariljil.
Cotellettes d'Agneau Grillges.
Filet d'Agneau Roti et Piqu6. 6 Lamb Chops.
A Filet of Lamb. Butter, Salt and Pepper.
Lard Sufficient to Lard Thoroughly. Broil in exactly tlie same manner
1 Small Onion.
'
1 Bay Loaf. as Mutton Chops, only let them re-
4 Cloves, if desired. main a little longer on the griddle,
114 Tablespoonfnls of Butter. until the chops are firm under pres-
1 Tablcspoonful of Glace. (See recipe.) sure of a fork.
1 Glass of Madeira or Sherry V^'iue. or Water. Season the chops well with salt
Salt and Pepper to Taste.
and pepper and brush with meltel
Trim the removing the
filet nicely, butter and a few broad crumbs. Have
oiitPr muscular skin. Lard the fllet the gridiron hot and place the chops
well, using larding needles. The upon it. In a few seconds turn the
lard must be very thin, like a shoe- chops and let the other sides cook.
string. The larding is done by filling Place on a platter, butter thickly anJ
the needles with the lard and push- teprinkle with chopped parsley ani
ing them through the fllet as far as serve very hot.
they will go. If the needles are
long enough they will come out on Smothered Brea.st of Lamb.
-the other side of the filet, leaving Poitrine d'Agneau Braisfie.
the lard within. Repeat this pro-
cess all do"wn the center and along Shoulder and Breast of a Lamb.
2 Sprigs of Parsley.
the sides of the fllet, about an inch 2 Onions.
1 Carrot.
apart, and have the rows neat and
even. If you have not a larding
1 Clove of Garlic. %
Can of Tomitoes.
A Sprig Each of Thyme and Bay Leaf.
needle, make incisions with a knife Bread Crumbs.
and push the lard in with your finger, 2 Tahlespoontuls of Butter.
but the filet is nev^r as juicy and ten- Pepper and Salt to Taste.
der, nor does it look so clean and I Pint of Water.
even when baked. When well larded, Select nice, fresh breast and shoul-
dredge well with salt and pepper, der of lamb. Have the butcher re-
rubbing this thoroughly into the beef. move all the bones; wash or wipe
Cut up one small onion, one bay leaf, carefully with a damp towel. Take
and mash four cloves, and place in one cup of bread crumbs, which have
the bottom of the baking pan. Lay been wet and squeezed, and season
the larded filet on this bed, the larded well with one grated onion and clove
side being uppermost. Put small and chopped parsley,
of garlic, thyme-
bits of buttpr equal to a half tea- and bay leaf, and spices to taste,
spoonful on top, and bake in a quick put in a frying pan. with one table-
oven thirty minutes. This dish is Bpootiiui ol Butter, ^.nd fry about five-
101

minutes. Place this dressing into the Lnsnb en Blanquette.


open side ot the lamb, and roll it up Blanquette d'Agneau.
in its own meat, and tie it securely
with thin strips of twine that the 3 Pounds of Brisket of Lamb.
fi'ssinsT may not escape in baking. 1 Onion. 2 Carrots.
Slice the carrot, onion and turnip ^ Dozen Cloves. 1 Leek.

e.y nne, and fry in a tablespoon- 1 Bouquet of Thyme, Parsley and Bay Leaf.
ful of butter in a deep pan. When % Pound of Butter. 2 Tablespoonfuls Flour.
The Yolka of 2 Eggs.
brown, add the lamb and cover and % Can of Mushrooms or Green Peas.
let it simmer for about fifteen min-
utes. Then add the tomatoes and The brisket of the lamb is best
let them brown; then add just enough
for this dish. Cut into pieces of two
boiling water to cover the meat (one square inches. Put in a stew pot and
pint); set the pot back on the stove cover with a half gallon of water,
and let it simmer gently and stead- and add salt and pepper and two
ily forabout three hours, or accord- onions and one carrot, chopped fine.
ing the size of the roll. Serve
to Let it boil till very tender. When it
with the vegetables dished around reaches this stage, take the meat out
and with its' own gravy. of the saucepan and keep the water
in which it was boilea. Take anoth-
Minced Lnmb. er saucepan and put a tablespoonful
Agneau minc6. of butter in it. and as it melts add
a tablespoonful of flotir. Let it
2 Pounds of Cold Minced Lamb. brown lightly, and add one i"nt of
^ Can of Mushrooms.
the water ,in which the, veal was
4 Ounces of Butter. % Pint ot Veal Stock.
broiled. Stir well, inakmg it very
IVi Gills ot Cream. Yolks of 2 Eggs.
light, and not thick. Add one-half
Place the butter in a frying pan; can of mushrooms, and iet the whole
add one chopped onion and brown boil about fifteen minutes, so as to
slightly; add the mushrooms, and be very light. 'I'hen put in the veal,
season to taste. Then add the half v,-hich is already cooked. Let it
pint ot veal broth, if you have it; simmer for about fifteen minutes
it not, boiling water or milk, and let longer, and tal.-e off the fire and add
it simmer a few minutes; thicken the yolks of two eggs, well beaten,
with a tablespoonful of blended flour; two tablespoonfuls of the gravy, and
add the minced lamb and a gill and the juice of one lemon. Serve hot.
a half of cream; let all simmer,
stirring constantly; and when done, Lamb's Brains,
which will be in about ten minutes, Cervelles d'Agneau.
take off the fire; add the yolks of
two eggs, beaten, and stir constant- The recipes given for the prepara-
ly. Place in a hot dish, garnish with tion Sheep Brains may be fol-
of
Crodtons (buttered) -and serve. This Jowed in cooking Lamb's Brains.
is a very nice breakfast dish from Lamb Brains are a very delicate dish.
the left-over lamu. The following recipe, Lamb's Brains
a la Remoulade, however, is a fa-
lCpln^niu of Lininb. mous Creole dish:
Epigramme d'Agneau. Lamb's Brains ft la Remoulade.
Breasts of Lamb.
2
1.Tablespoonful ot Salt. Cervelles d'Agneau a la Remoulade.
1 Teaspoonful ot Pepper. 1 Pint of White Wine.
Lamb's Brains.
3 Tablfspoontnls of Hatter or Olire Oil. 2 Cloves of Garlic.
2 Quarts of Water.
Grated Bread Crumbs. The Yolks of i Egss.
Take two breasts of Damb; tie 2 Siallots. 1 Herb Bouquet. 6 Capers.
them and put them to boil in soup 3 Small Vinegar Pickles.
stock for forty-five minutes. Then 1 Tablespoonful of Parsley.
Tablespoonfuls of Olive Oil.
drain wfll and extract all the bones. 4
with a heavy 4 Tablespoonfuls ot Vinegar.
.Press ihcm down
1 Tablespoonful of Creole Mustard.
weight on top. When thoroughly % Tablespoonful of Chives.
cold, cut each breast into three tri- Salt and Pepper to Taste.
angular-shaped pieces, dip them in
oliveL oil, or melted lard, or butter,
Plunge the Lamb's Brains into cold
and season with the salt and pepper. water and let them stand for an hour,
Roll each piece in fresh bread crumbs changing the water several times.
grated, and broil on a slow fire, al- Prepare in exactly the same manner
indicated for the preparation of
lowing four minutes to each side.
Serve with a pint of hot Macedoine Bheep Brains. After removing from
or any garnish that may be desired, the water and taking off the skin,
arranging the breast over the gar- drain of all water. Have ready a
nish. The epigram may be served saucepan of boiling water and sea-
a la Soubise with a hot Soubise son it with salt and pepper and an
sauce, or a la Chicoree with a hot herb bouquet of parsley, bay leaves
chicory sauce, or a, la Louisianaise and thyme. When the herbs begin
with a hot Madeira wine sauce, and to boil add a pint of white wine to
garnish of fried sweet potatoes. the water, as it boils up again -^rop
102

in the brains and let them cook for cut in pieces, taking out all the
ten minutes. Remove the herb bou- bones. Put back in the saucepan,
quet and strain the brains through add a tablespoonful of butter blend-
a sieve. ed well with a tablespoonful of flour.
Place on a hot dish and serve with Stir well and add two sprigs of
the foUcwing sauce: Chop the shal- parsley, minced very fine, and the
lots very fine, mince the ga,rlic and juice of one lemon. Let this sim-
mash the yolks of the eggs. Put the mer for ten minutes longer and serve
vinegar into a small saucepan and hot.
add the shallots, the garlic and let
all boil till the vinegar is reduced Broiled liamb Kidneys.
about one-half. Then mash the yolks Eognons d'Agneau Grillfies.
of eggs in the sweet oil and cut up
the capers and add all to the vin- 6 Kidneys.
1 Tablespoonful of Butter.
egar. Add the parsley and the vin-
The Juice of 1 Lemon. Parsley to GarniBh.
egar pickles chopped fine and let
all come to a boil. Then add the Prepare in exactly the same man-
chives and two teaspoonfuls of Cre- ner as in the recipe for broiling
ole mustard. Mix well and pour all Sheep Kidneys, and serve with melt-
over the brains and send to the table ed butter and lemon juice and
very hot. chopped parsley, thrown over. In
all these recipes, where the skewer
liamb's Feet. is used in broiling to keep the kid-
neys from separating, the skewer
Pieds d'Agneau. must be drawn out before butter-
The variousdelightful ways that ing and serving.
the Creoles have of serving Mutton SteTred Lamb Tongrues.
Feet may be used in preparing
Lamb's the latter especially
Feet, Langues d'Agneau Sautfees.
making many delightful and rficher- Tongues.
6 1 Onion.
chg entrees. We have "Pieds d'Ag- %of a Small Carrot, Cut Fine.
neau a, la Poulette," etc. ("See re- %
of a Small Turnip. Cut Fine.
cipe for cooking Mutton Peet, "Pieds 1 Pint of Broth or Water.
d'Agneau au Blanc," "Pieds d'Agneau 2 Tablespoonfuls of Butter.
a. la Bourgeoise," etc.) 2 Tablespoonfuls of Flour.
1 Bay Leaf. 2 Sprigs of Thyme anrl Panley.
Salt and Pepper to Taste.
Lamb's Feet, Wliite Sauce.
Clean the tongues; wash well and
Pieds d'Agneau, Sauce Blanche. boil in clear water for an hour and
a half. Then throw them into cold
12 Lamb's Feet.
water and remove the skins. Cut the
1 Pint of Broth. Tbe Juice of 1 Lemon. vegetables fine, and put them with
The Yolk of 1 Egg.
1 Tablespoonful of Butter.
the butter into a saucepan. Add a
pint of broth or water, and then add
Clean the feet well, and, after boil- the herbs. Add the
finely-minced
ing, take out all the bones, cut in tongues and let them simmer gently
little pieces of about two inches or for two hours. Serve hot, with the
less, season nicely and cook in a pint gravy poured over.
of their own water over a slow fire.
Add the juice of a lemon, and then Lamb Tongrnes Wltb Tomato Snnce.
throw in the beaten yolk of an egg Langues d'Agneau a. la Sauce Tomate.
to bind nicely, and serve hot.
e Tongues. 1 Onion.
1 Pint of Broth or Water.
Lamb's Feet & la Bourgeoise. 2 Tablespoonfuls of Butter.
1 Bay Leaf.
Pieds d'Agneau a, la Bourgeoise. 2 Tablespoonfuls of Flour.
2 Sprigs .of Thyme.
12 Lamb's Peet. 1 Pint of Broth. A Tomato Sauce.
1 Tablespoonful of Butter.
1 Tablcspoouful of Flour. Cook the tongues as in the recipe
2 Sprigs of Parsley. The Juice of 1 Lemon. given above, omitting, of course, the
Clean the feet well and boil in th
vegetables. When done, place the
tongues on a hot dish, pour over a
manner above indicated. When the rich Tomato Sauce (see recipe) and
water is reduced, take out the feet. serve.
CPIAPTER XV.

PORK.

Du Uochon.

The old Creoles, like their French Roast Fig Stuffed.


ancestors, hold that every portion
of the hog is good, from the head to Cochon de Lait Roti et Farcl.
the feet, and all portions are util-
1 Four or Five WeeliS Old.
Pig,
ized in the various dishes which are 3 Large Onions. 2 Cups of Btead Crumbs,
so delightfully prepared in New Or- 3 Sprigs of- Cliopp.ed Paisley.
leans. For roasting, the Creoles al- Salt and Pepper to Taste.
ways use the delicate "Cochon de 2 Ounces of 'Butter.
Lait," or sucking pig, of not more 2 Teaspoonfuls of Powdered Sage.
nor less than four or five weeks old, 3 Hard-Boiled Eggs.
when the pig is roasted whole; other- 1 Herb Bouquet,
wise the best parts of the grown hog
for roasting are the loin and the leg. In New Orleans the pig is always
Pork chops or cutlets are taken sold killed and cleaned by the butch-
from the loin. Tliey are used as er. Wash the young pig well, clean-
entries, as are also slices of cold ing again, and scraping thorouglily
ham; the kidneys, cooked in wine, and taking out all remaining hair
and the tails braisfies, or smoth- from the ears and nostrils. Wasli
ered. again thoroughly in cold water, in-
Pork must always be cooked well side and out, shaking the pig vig-
done, or else it w^ill be dangerous, orously, head downward. Then turn
unwholesome and Indigesible. It upwards and pour cold water over
must .be roasted or fried. The Cre- it. Wipe dry inside and out with a
oles will never eat a broiled pork coarse towel, and then rub well in-
chop. side with salt and pepper and minced
parsley, thyme and bay leaf. Pre-
pare a dressing as follows: Wet tlie
Roast liOln of Pork. bread crumbs and squeeze thorough-
ly. Then add the sprigs of minced
Longe de Pore Rotie. parsley and hard-boiled eggs and the
A Loin of Pork.
powdered sage. Mix well. Season
Salt and Pepper to Taste. all highly with black pepper and salt
Parsley to Garnish. Apple Sauce. using about a teaspoonful of salt
and a half teaspoonful of black pep-
Score the loin in close lines across per. Place two ounces of butter,
and down. The lines should be about which will be equal to two table-
a half inch apart. Dredge well with spoonfuls, in a frying pan on the
salt and pepper and place In the stove, and, when it melts, add the
oven, letting it cook slowly and minced onions. Let them brown, and
long, allowing at least twenty-five then add the dressing, stirring well,
minutes to every pound, and basting and letting it fry for five minutes.
every five minutes for the first half Take off and stuff the pig and sew
hour and every ten minutes thereaf- up the opening.
' Truss the fore
ter. Pork must always be well done. legs forward and the hind feet for-
When cooked thoroughly, take out ward, and close under the body. Wipe
of the baking pan, put in a hot serv- the pig carefully with a damp towel,
ing dish, and garnish nicely with and then place a corn cob in its
parsley. Serve with Apple Sauce and mouth to keep it open. Rub the
a little horseradish. (See recipe pig all over the outside with butter,
"Sauces for Meats," etc.) dredging lightly with salt and pep-
per. Place in a modreate oven, and
bake steadily for two and a half
Roust Fork, or three hours, according to size and
age. Baste frequently, and, when
Pore Roti. half done, rub again with butter un-
til the pan Is saturated. Continue
The leg and shoulder may bs basting at intervals. When done,
roasted in the same manner as the take out of the oven and place on a
loin, allowing from twenty to twenty- hot dish. Garnish the dish with
five minutes to a pound in cooking. parsley. Take the corncob out of
104

the mouth and place instead a nice, ing lard twenty-five minutes. This
rosy apple. Serve very hot, with will be when they have reached a
Apple Sauce. (See recipe "Sauces rich brown. Take out. place on a
for Meats," etc.) platter and serve with pickles or a
Sweet potatoes are a nice vege- Sauce aux Cornichons. (See recipe.)
table to serve with roast pig. Boil pigs' Feet.
a half dozen first and then peel care-
fully and place them whole, about Pieds de Cochon.
fifteen minutes before serving the 6 Pigs Feet. 2 Bay Leaves.
pig in- the pan where it is roasting; 3 Blades of Mace.' 1 Dozen Whole Clores.
let them soak in the gravy, brown 1 Whole Red Pepper Pod.
nicely and serve on a separate plat- 1 Pint o Good Cider Vinegar.
ter or as a. garnish. Salt, Pepper and Cayenne to Taste.

Roast Spare Ribs, Select young and tender pigs' feet.


Clean and scrape well and soak In
Cotelettes de Pore Roti. cold water several hours. Split and
Spare Ribs. Salt and Pepper to Taste. crack the feet in several places; put
A GaiElsh of Parsley and Radish. them in a stewpot; cover with cold
Dredge the spare ribs lightly with water and let them simmer until
salt and pepper, after having washed tender. When done, lay in a crock.
well and wiped dry with a coarse Boil the vinegar, mace, cloves and
towel. Place them in the baking pan bay leaves and pepper pod together
and dredge with butter; place them a few minutes. Season the feet with
in the oven and cover with a piece salt and pepper, and pour the spiced
of buttered paper. Allow twenty vinegar over while boiling hot. (3over
minutes to every pound in cooking. the crock and set to cool. The feet
About twenty minutes before serving will be ready for use in twenty-four
take the buttered paper, dredge
oft
hours.
again, with melted butter, and let Pigs' Feet, Sauce Robert.
it brown nicely. Serve with a gar- Sauce Robert
Pieds de Cochon a. la
nish of parsley and radishes.
If it is desired to stuff the spare 3 Pigs' Feet.
ribs, have the ribs cracked, cross- 1 Tablespoonful of Butter or Olive OH.
wise, the entire length, in two places. 1 Tablespoonful of Salt.
Put a stuffing, as for roast pig, in % Tablespoonful of Pepper.
the center, or a stuffing made of Grated Bread Crumbs. % Pint of Sauce Robert.
mashed potatoes and
three hard- Boil three good-sized Pigs' Feet In
boiled eggs, mixed thoroughly. Close a salted water, and when tender,
the ends of the ribs over this, tie take out of the water and drain
we-11 and roast as for a roast pig. thoroughly. Split the feet in two
Serve with an Apple Sauce or a and place in a dish and season well
Sauce Piquante. (See recipes "Sauc- with salt and pepper. Then rub them
es for Meats," etc.) with the olive oil or butter; roll the
feet in grated bread crumbs and put
Fork Tenderloins.
them to broil, allowing four minutes
Filet de Pore Sautfi. to each side of the feet. Prepare a
Pork Tenderloins.
4 hot Sauce A, la Robert (see recipe),
A
Tableapoonful of Lard. and pour this sauce in a warm dish.
Salt and Pepper to Taste. Lay the feet nicely over It and send
Have the tenderloins cut thin and to the table hot.
split lengthwise without separating Pigs' Feet, Plqnant Sance.
Season well with salt and pepper.
Have ready a very hot frying pan, Pieds de Cochon k la Sauce Piquante.
place a tablespoonful of butter or Prepare In exactly the manner di-
lard within and add the tenderloin.
rected above, and, after broiling the
Turn every two minutes, not leaving feet, serve with a half pint of Sauce
them very long on either side at a Piquante. (See recipe.)
time. Be careful to cook through
and through, smothering over a low Pigs' Feet, Tomato Sance.
fire, and serve with Apple Sauce or
Pieds de Cochon a, la Sauce Tomate.
Currant Jelly. (See recipes "Sauces Boil and prepare the feet as in re-
for Meats," etc.) cipe for "Pigs' Feet, Sauce Robert"
Fried Pork Cbops. and serve with a half pint of hot To-,
.Cotelettes de Cochon
a, la Poele.
mato Sauce.
6 Pork Chop*.
or 8 Pig's Feet, Tartar Sance.
Grated Bread Crumbs. Pieds de Cochon a, la Sauce Tartare.
Salt and Pepper to Taste.
Prepare the feet as Indicated in
Wash the pork chops and season the recipe for "Pig's Feet, Sauce Rob-
well with salt and pepper. Roll In ert," and serve with a half pint of
grated bread crumbs and fry In boil- Sauce a. la Tartare. (See recipe.)
.

105

Pig's Feet, St. Hubert Style. which has been


well cleaned and
Pieds de Coohon a 1* St. Hubert. scraped. Add
four teaspoonfuls of
salt, and a lemon cut Jn half. After
Prepare the feet as in the recipe for four hours, when the head will have
"Pig's Feet, Sauce Robert," and serve
with a half pint of hot Piquant
become very tender, take out of the
water and set to cool. Then skin
Sauce, to which has been added a
the meat, from the head. Preserve
teaspoonful of Creole mustard, di-
the water'in which it has been boiled.
luted.
Cut up the entire head, ears and
Stuffed Pig'fsi Feet & la Perlgueux. tongue and two of the feet, if you
. . Fieds de Coclion ft la Perlgueux.
have boiled them, too, into pieces of
.
about one inch in length. Take two
3 Pigs' Feet. 2 Minced Truffles. large onions and chop them very fine.
%Glass of iladeii-a Wine. Put a tablespoonful of lard and the
.1 Pound of Bonea Tuiiey Forcemeat. onions into a pot. Don't let them
6 Pieces o Crepinette. brown, but slightly smother. Season
1 Egg. 2 Ounces of Butter. well with minced thyme, three mashed
Va Pint of Hot Pedgueux Sauce. cloves, a dash of red pepper (Poivre
Boil the Pig's Feet, Rouge). Add a teaspoonful of water
and then split
them two;
take out the boneg,
in taken from the reserve in which the
lay the flesh on a dry, clean cloth head was boiled. Let this simmer
and wipe well. Make a forcemeat gently; then add one pint of the wa-
ter, the peel of a large lemon, cut
of boned turkey (see recipe under
fine, and one glass of Sherry or Ma-
chapter Stuffings for Fowls, etc.);
add the truffles, which have been deira. Add hot pepper to taste, sea-
finely minced, and a half glass of
soning highly. Boil well. Then add
Madeira or Sherry "Wine. Mix this the head and a slice of ham, cut into
well together. Crepinette is applied pieces of about one inch long and a
half inch wide. Season to taste, and
to a skin found in the stomach of
the pig. Take six pieces of this cre- add five powdered allspice, one blade
of chopped mace and three mashed
pinette, which you will have secured
from the butcher; cut them the size cloves. Let it boil for a half hour
longer, till it comes to the right con-
of a man's hand and lay on a clean
sistency. When cooked, fill a bowl
biscuit board; place on each piece
of skin a portion of the forcemeat
with the cheese and put a close-fit-
about the size of a hen's egg and ting dish pn top, and then place
flatten out well. Place one-half of
a piece of plank over this and set
t big weight of about fifteen pounds
a pig's foot on top of this farcie,
or three or four flatirons on top.
and cover with another layer of the When the cheese cbols, which will
stufl^ng. On either side lay three thin
be in about five or six hours, turn
slices of truffles. Wrap the- cre- out of the bowl. It will have taken
pinettes up in some fanciful shape,
the shape of the bowl and become
such as an envelope or card case, and
a fine head of cheese^ ready to be
dip them separately in a well-beaten
served. This is the Creole's way of
egg, and then in grated bread- making hogshead cheese, and It can-
crumbs. Put two tablespbonfuls of not be improved upon.
butter In a saucepan or deep frying
pan, cover closely, and let the feet Salt Meat.
cook on a slow fire for twenty-flve Viande SalSe.
minutes, allowing twelve minutes and
a half to each side. Serve with a Salt pork enters so largely into
pint of hot Perigueux Sauce. (See cooking that it will be unnecessary
recipe.) Place the sauce in a dish to devote special attention to it here.
lay the feet neatly over it and send It is used in cooking cabbage in
pork and
beans' a most excellent
to the table hot.
dish for
children and with nearly
Stuffed Pig's Feet, Madeira Sauce. all green herbs and vegetables it
Pieds de Cochon a. la Sauce MadSre. serves as a delightful flavor. In the
the chapter on vegetables, wherever
Prepare
the feet in exactly the it is advisable to use salt or pickled
same manner as indicated in the re- pork, this subject will be treated.
cipe given above, and serve with a
pint of hot Madeira Sauce, Instead Pickled Pork.
of the Sauce Perigueux.
Petit Sale.
Hogshead Cheese, Coarse Salt Sufficient to malse a Brine.
12 Bay Leaves. 2 Dozen Onions.
Fromage de Cochon. 23 Pounds of Pork. 1 Ounce of Saltpetre.
1 Hog's Hetfd. 1 Lemon. 12, Cloves. 6 Allspice.
1 Glass of Slierry or Madeira. 2 Onions. Pork should be pickled about
1 Slice of Ham. twenty hours after killing. It is
Thyme, Bay Leaf, Spices. pickled always in sufficient quantity
Boil the whole of the hog's head, I
to last for some time, for, if proper
106

care is taken, it will keep one year ham cool in its own liquor, and then
after pickling; but it may also be put the ham on a board, cover with
pickled in smaller quantities, of three another board, and lay a weight over.
or four pounds at a time, reducing Leave under weight several hours.
other ingredients in the recipe ac- This will enable you to cut the ham
cording to quantity of pork used. in thin slices after removing the
To twenty-five pounds of pork, allow weight. Then carefully remove the
one ounce of saltpetre. Pulverize skin without taking off the fat.
thoroughly and mix with a sufficient Sprinkle it in patches with black
quantity of salt to thoroughly salt pepper and ornament the shank bone
the pork. Cut the pork into pieces with quilled paper, or a paper frill.
of about two pounds, and slash each Serve it cold with a garnish of par-
piece through the skin, and then rub sley. Cold boiled ham should be
thoroughly with the salt and salt- sliced very thin and served with
petre mixture till the meat is thor- pickles and mustard.
oughly penetrated through and
through. Mash the cloves very fine Fried Hnm.
and ground the allspice. Chop the Jambon Frit.
onions. Take a small barrel and
8 Thin Slices of Ham.
place at the bottom a layer of salt, Pepper to Taste.
then a layer of coarsely chopped on- Parsley to Garnish.
ions, and sprinkle over this a layer
Slice the ham thin. Heat the fry-
of the spices and minced bay leaves.
Place on this a layer of the pork; ing pan very hot. Lay in the ham
in its own fat and fry over a quick
pack tightly; then place above this
a layer of the salt and seasonings fire. The Creoles serve eggs nicely
and continue with alternate layers fried, with ham. Allow an egg to

of pork and seasonings till all the every of ham. After taking
slice
pork is used up. Conclude with a the ham out of the pan, drop in the
layer of the minced herbs and spices eggs. If you do not like eggs fried
and have a layer of salt on top. on both sides (many prefer them so),
Cover the preparation with a board baste the eggs with the hot grease,
on which a heavy weight must be and be sure to cook the yolks whole.
placed to press down the meat. It When they are well set, without be-
will be ready for use in about ten or ing hard, take the eggs out and lay
twelve days. one on each slice of ham. Garnish
HAM. with parsley. Sprinkle the eggs
with salt and pepper very lightly and
jambon. serve. This is a very popular Creole
Ham is one of the most useful ar- brealkfast dish.
ticles of supply that can be kept in eggs are not served with the
If
any household. The Creoles gene- fried ham, and a gravy is desired,
rally keep a nicely boiled ham on malce one as follows: Take one ta-
hand. In case of unexpected com- bleSpoonful of flour and add to the
pany for lunch or supper, the ham remaining fat in the pan. Mix weil
is always ready and sure to be ap- until smooth. Add a half pint Of
petizing. It forms combinations in milk and stir until it boils; throw in
many dishes, and is in itself a de- a dash of black pepper, pour over
lightful breakfast dish and dinner the ham and send to the table hot.
entree.
Boiled Ham. Broiled Ham.
Jambon Bouilli.
Jambon Grille.
6 or 8 Thin Slices of Boiled Ham.
A Ham. 2 Blades of Mace. 6 or 8 Slices of Buttered Toast.
Dozen Cloves.
1 4 Bay Leaves.
Black Pepper and Paisley to Garnish.
Always use boiled hata for broiling.
Slice it about a half inch thick, ac-
Wash the ham
well in cold water, cording to the number to be served,
scraping oft all portions of mold or and trim off the rough edges. Have
salt. Have a large boiler of water the broiler very hot, lay the slices of
on the stove; or, better still, the ham upon it and brown well. Serve
furnace. Throw in two blades of with buttered toast.
mace, a dozen cloves and three or
four bay leaves. Put the ham in Broiled Ham With Cnenmber Gar-
the water and let the fire be slow. nisli.
allowing the water to heat gradu- Jambon Grille aux Concombres.
ally. Do not permit it to come to a G or 8 Slices of Boiled Ham.
good boil for two hours at least, and Pepper. Cucumbers.
be careful to skim carefully, so that Cut thin as many slices of ham as
all rejected substances may not im-
desired and broil evenly over hot
pregnate the ham. Keep it simmer- coals. When well brown butter, add
ing gently, allowing twenty minutes pepper, sprinkling, and serve with
to every pound. When done, let the slices of cucumber that have been

107

steeped in salted vinegar several "Boudins" and "Saucissons" so tempt-


hours ranged around it. ingly prepared by the Creole butchers
in the French Market, the Creole sau-
Ham Croquettes. sage enters largely into domestic
Croquettes de Jambon. cookery and forms a delightful flav-
or for many dainty dishes, especially
2 Cups of Finely Chopped Boiled Bam.
of the vegetable order, while in the
2 Cups ot Mashed Potatoes.
The Yolks ot 3 Eggs. preparation of the famous "Jamba-
2 Tahlespoonfuls of Cream. laya," the "Chaurice," is one of the
2 Tablespoonfula of Butter. most necessary and indispensible in-
A Dash of Cayenne. gredients. Though sausages of any
of these varieties may be bought in
Chop the ham fine and add to the the French Market and other stalls
mashed potatoes. Then add the daily, many of the ancient house-
cream and butter and the yolks of wives and cooks prefer to prepare
two eggs, beaten well. Beat all to-
their own sausages, and the follow-
gether until smooth, then add a dash ing are the carefully compiled re-
of Cayenne. Mold the ham Into cyl- cipes.
inder shapes of about a finger in In making sausage, the Creole
length and roll in the beaten egs? housewife generally prepares a suf-
that remains. Then roll In bread ficient Quantity to last several days.
crumbs grated and fry In the boiling
fat. Chaurice.
Ham puffs are made
the same
in i Pounds of Lean, Fresh Pork.
way, only the potatoes are omitted,
2 Pounds of Fat Fresh Pork.
and a stiff batter is used instead, -2 Large Onions, Minced Very Fine.
made of one pint of flour and one of 1 Clove of Garlic, Minced Very Fine.
water, three eggs and four ounces of 1 Teaspoonful of Cayenne Pepper and Chill
finely chopped ham. The ham is Pepper (very hot.)
placed in the batter and fried In 1 Teaspoonful of Red Pepper.
boiling lard to a golden brown. 3 Teaspoonfuls of Salt.
2 Teaspoonfuls Finely Ground Black Pepper.
Ham SonHie. 1 Sprig of Thyme, Well Minced.

SoufSe de Jambon. 3 Sprigs of Parsley, Finely Minced.


2 Bay Leaves, Chopped or Minced Very Fine.
1 Cup ot Minced Ham.
3 -Eggs, Beaten With he Whites and Tolks
% Teaspoonful of iiUsplce, Very Fine.
Separate. Hash the pork as fine as possible
1 Teaspoonful of Finely Chopped Parsley. fat and
lean and mix together.
Pepper to Taste. . Then season highly With the salt and
Mix together the chopped parsley, black pepper and Cayenne, Chili and
ham and yolks of eggs and a dash of red pepper (pimento). This high
Cayenne pepper. Beat all very hard seasoning distinguishes the Creole
till it becomes light. Then add the sausage from all others. Chaurice
whites of the eggs, which have been must be seasoned very hot, so do not
beaten to a froth. Beat together fear to have too much red pepper.
sufficiently to mix well. Pill a dish Mince the onion and garlic as fine as
and bake in an oven for eight or ten possible, then add to the Chaurice.
minutes and serve with a Cream Mince the herbs as fine as possible,
Sauce. (See recipe.) and add, and then mix the finely
ground spices thoroughly with the
Boiled Bacon. Chaurice. Hash all together, and
Petit Sale BoullU. when well mixed, take the casings
man- (the Creoles always use the entrails
Proceed in e?cactly the same of the sheep for this purpose) that
ner as for boiled ham. have been well cleaned by the butch-
Filed Bacon. er. Scald them and wash thorough-
ly again. Dry them and fill with the
Petit Sale Frit. mixture, tying them In the lengths
Cut into very thin slices, put In you desire.
the frying pan and fry to a nice Chaurice Is fried In boiling lard
golden brown. This is a fine break- for breakfast, always having suf-
fast dish. ficient to have the sausage swim in
It, and served, after
draining of all
Creole Sansage. grease, on a hot dish with minced
Saucisses a la Crgole. parsley thrown over as a garnish.
It has been said by visitors to New It is used most extensively in making
Orleans that the Creoles excell all "Jambalaya," and a few Chaurice
other cooks in preparing appetizing thrown into the pot of boiling cab-
sausages.. From the old Creole ne- bage or beans add greatly to the
gresses, who go about the streets in flavor. This is a distinctive Creole
the early morning crying out "Belles sausage and the very nicest and most
Saucisses!" "Belle Chaurice!" to the highly flavored that can be eaten.
108

Cbiinrice With Purfie of Potatoes. then slice nicely. Garnish with


Chaurice a. la Purfie de Pomines de chopped parsley and serve.
Terre. Saaclssona.
2 Pounds of Chaurice.
4 Irish Potatoes. 1 Egg, Well Beaten. Sauoissons are sausage made from
Prick the sausages and lay them the lean, fine flesh of the pork and
in the bottom of a pan. Make a soft the lilet of beef. Take
Puree of Potatoes (see recipe) and 2 Pounds of Fresh Pork, Very Lean.
pour this over the sausage. Then 1 Pound of Fat.

spread a beaten egg very evenly on 2 Pounds of Filet of Beef. 1 Large Onloa.

top, sprinkle with bread crumbs, and 1 Teaspoonful of Cayenne Pepper.


1 Teaspoonful of Black Pepper.
place in the oven and let it bake a
3 Teaspoonfuls of Salt.
half hour. This is a nice breakfast
1 Bay Leaf, Chopped Fine.
or luncheon dish. of Ground Allspice,
Vi, Teaspoonful Each
Cliaurlce With Creole Sauce. Cloves, and ^
Nutmeg.
Chaurice, Sauce &, la CrSole. %
Teaspoonful Each of Fine Herbs.
1 Clove of Garlic.
2 Pounds of Chaurice (about 6 to a pound.)
1 Clove of Minced Garlic. Mince and hash the meat very fine,
% Can of tomatoes. 1 Teaspoonful of Salt, mixing the beef and pork and fat.
1 Teaspoonful of Black Pepper. Then season highly with the Cayenne,
1 Large Onion. ^2 Spoon of Lard. salt and pepper, mixing thoroughly.
Place a half teaspoonful of lard Season next with the minced onion
in the frying pan or stewpan, and and garlic; mix well, and then with
when it heats, add the chopped on- the minced herbs and spices, mixing
ion. Let this brown slightly and tlien all thoroughly. Fill the casings,
add the minced garlic. Then add the which are never very large for Sau-
half can of tomatoes. As this oissons. Tie them in sausages of
/browns, put in the sausage which about a finger in length, or three
you have pricked gently. Cover and inches, and they are ready to be
let them simmer for about five min- cooked. Saucissons are always fried
utes, then add the seasonings to in boiling lard' and served whole,
taste. Add about a half cup of boil- placing several on each plate.
ing water. Cover well and let all
simmer for twenty minutes longer. Boudlns,
This is very nice for breakfast.
Boudins are blood sausages and are
Saucisses. much affected by the Creoles. Take
1 Pound of Hog or Beef Blood (1 pint.)
Saucisses, unlike Chaurice, are
1^Pound of Hog Fat. 2 Onions.
made from pork and beef mixed.
Pepper and Cayenne to Season Hlglily.
Take " Salt,
% Clove of Garlic.
2 Pounds of Lean Beef.
2 Pounds of Lean Pork.
Mince the onions and fry them
fine
1 Pound of Lean Veal. 1 Pound of Fat Pork. slightly in a small piece of the hog
2 Large Onions Minced Very Fine. fat. Add the minced garlic. Hash
2 Cloves of Garlic. and mince the remaining fat very
1 Teaspoonful of Cayenne Pepper. fine, and mix it thoroughly with the
1 Tablespoonful Black Pepper. beef blood. Mix the onions, and then
3 Tablespoonfuls of Salt. season highly, adding of allspice,
3 Bay Leaves, Minced Very Fine. mace, clove and nutmeg a half tea-
% Spoon Each of Ground Cloves, Mace, spoonful each, finely ground, and a
Allspice and Grated Nutmeg. half teaspoonful each of fine herbs.
1 Teaspoonful Each of Minced Thyme and When all mixed, take the prepared
Sweet Marjoram. casings or entrails and fill with the
Chop and hash the meat (fat and mixture, being careful to tie the sau-
lean) very fine, mincing it, and then sage casing at the further end be-
season highly with salt and pepper fore attempting to fill. Then tie the
and Cayenne, mixing well. Add the other end, making the sausage into
minced onion and garlic, mix well, strings of about two feet. Wash them
and then add the finely minced herbs thoroughly on the outside after fill-
and spices. Mix thoroughly and fill ing, and then tie again In spaces of
the casings which you have gotten three inches or less in length,
from the butcher and washed again being careful not to make too long.
thoroughly. Fill them with the mix- Place them to cook in a pot of tepid
ture, in lengths of about two feet water, never letting them boil, as
or one foot and a half, stufHng tight- that would curdle the blood. Let
Ij'. Tie at both ends and let them ' them remain on the slow fire till you
stand overnight In a deep brine. It can pick the sausage with a needle
used for breakfast, take out as much and no blood will exude. Then take
as desired, wipe dry and cut into them out, let them dry and cool.
slices aT'd fry, or fry the sausage, Boudins are always fried in boil-
the whole length. In boiling lard, and ing lard. Some broil them, however.
109

Bondln Ulunc. Teaspoonful


Ml Each of llace, Cloves and
1 Pound of the White Meat of Fowl Allspice, ground flue.
(left over.) 1 Tablespoonful Each of Minced Tkyme,
1 Pound of Lean Pork. 1 Pound of Fat Pork. Sweet Marjoram and Parsley.
1 Pint
of Cream.
W Cup of Soft of Bread. Select, the largest intestines of the
hog, wash clean, disgorge and thor-
The Yolks of 2 Eggs.
Vi Teaspoon of Ground Spices. oughly cleanse, and let soak for twen-
Va CloTe of Garlic. ty four hours in fresh water, chang-
1 Onion. 1 Teaspoonful Caj-enne. ing the water frequently. Then
Salt and Pepper, 1 Teaspoonful Each. drain and dry well. Cut them into
Cut the meat and mince. Season threadlike pieces of about one inch
highly with the salt and pepper and
in length, and hash the pork, lean
Cayenne. Add the minced onion ami
and fat, together; mix thoroughly
with the threads of intestines or In-
garlic. Mix well with half a cup of ner stomach of the hog, and season
the soft of bread, wet and squeezed
highly with the salt, pepper and Ca-
well. Cook all for about fifteen yenne and Chili pepper. Mince the
minutes in one pint of cream. When
onion and garlic and herbs as fine as
reduced take off the stove, add the
possible and add to the meat. Add
beaten yolks of two eggs, stir well the ground spices, and mix and hash
and cool. Pill the prepared entrails
and tie either end, and place them all together very fine. Take six or
eight of the largs Intestines that
In a pot containi'ng half milk and
half water.
have been thoroughly soaked and dis-
Boil them for about gorged and fill these casings with
twenty minutes and then prick gent- the preparation, after scalding and
ly, place in buttered papers and broil
drying the casings ^thoroughly. Tie
gently. The left-over of rabbit, into the desired lengths and use as
chicken, turkey, partridge and other
desired. This is a very fat sausage
birds may be prepared in this man-
and entirely too rich for delicate
ner, as also the left-over of craw-
stomachs. When tied into large sau-
fish or crabs. This is a, Creole hors sages about the size of the hand they
d'oeuvre. are called "Andouilles." When tied
into small sausages they are styled
Chitterlings.
"Andouillettes." The latter are the
Andouilles. more delicate. This sausage is gen-
2 Pounds of Fat Port. 2 Pounds of Lean Pork erally served with mashed potatoes,
1 Pound of Inner Lining of Stomach of Hog. a puree of peas-, or lentils. The chit-
2 Cloves of Garlic. 3 Bay Leaves. 2 Large terlings are first boiled in an aro-
Onions. matic water, with an herb bouquet,
1Tablespoonful Each of Salt and Pepper. or in milk; they are then broiled, or
1 Teaspoonful of Cayenne. 1 Teaspoonful of baked in the oven for eight or ten
Chill Pepper. minutes.

CHAPTER XVI.

POULTRY.

De la Volaille.

Poultry of all kinds, especially on every table. The entries that are
chicken, furnishes the good cook with made from poultry' are various, such
an infinite variety of delightful dish- as Turkey Daube, Fricassees of
es, which are, besides dishes that may Chicken, with truffles, mushrooms,
grace the table of the people from green peas, rice; Ragouts of Ducks,
the simple farmer or the Creole in Chapons au Gros Sel, Poulardes a. la
his humble home, to the rich banker Sauce Tartare, Poulet Saut# a. la Cre-
who can afford to serve them with ole, all manner of croquettes and
truffles and mushrooms. salads, and gdose entire a. la Chipo-
Roast chidk.en, roast turkey, roast lata. Full-grown poultry always has
goose, roast duck are welcome dishes the best flavor.
110

Guides In Buying Poultry. and the flesh will be soft and yel-
low. As the goose grows older the
In purchasing turkeys, if Intended legs turn reddish or purplish In col-
to roast, select always a young gob- or, like those of the turkey.
bler or a young turkey hen, the lat- Guinea fowl, when young, make
ter being far preferable, as the meat most delicious dishes either in Fric-
is more tender and delicate. The assee or as Fintarde Saute. The -

turkey should always be fat, the French discovered the value of the y
flesh firm, the breast broad and flat young guinea fowl and the Creoles
and the skin fine and white. Turkey have improved on their methods of
gobblers and hens that are not so preparing it, making most delicious
young, may be cooked nicely in daube dishes a, la CroIe.
but roasting is the proper way to Young .pigeon or squab are pre-
cook a turkey if you wish to bring pared in a variety of deligliiful ways
out its flavor. The left-over turkey
is always used by the Creoles in mak-
by Creole culsiniSres,
gjld are wel-
ing Turkey Gumbo. (See recipe
come dishes at thernost r6cherch6
feast, especially when prepared as
Gumbo Dlnde.) The shorter the neck Pigeons a. la C^apaudine, in which
the better will be the turkey. An
the pigeon is .:ro arranged as to rep-
old turkey hen always has purplish
resent a young frog. The young pig.
legs, and the gobbler, if young, will,
have black legs and small spurs. But eon is easily known by the tender
touch.
a gobbler is always larger than a
turkey hen of the same age. In an HoTv to Clean Poultry.
old. gobbler the flesh is tough and
strong ia fiber. An old gobbler can Cut off the head at the joint. To
easily be told by its long spurs and avoid needless pain, hang the tiirkey
purplish legs. In general, old turk- or chicken, or other fowl, up by the
eys have long hairs, and the flesh is feet. The blood will then flow more
always purplish where it shows un- freely and the fowl will die easier
der the skin on the legs or back. and quicker.
These are infallible guides. In fol- Sca,lding is largely a matter of op-
lowing them the young housekeeper tion with-, the qook. An old fowl
need never be imposed upon. About win pick much more easily and it
the month of March turkeys begin does not injure the meat to scald
to deterioate in quality. an old turkey or chicken, but geese
Purchase chickens that are fat, should never be, scalded nor a turkey
with firm, fresh-looking flesh, fine that you intend to bone. Toung
skin and yellowish in color. A spring chickens are completely
young rooster has small spurs, an spoiled by having the flesh scalded
old rooster large ones, and both the or blanched. As soon as the fowl is
young rooster and young hen have dead pick off the feathers with a
smooth, soft legs and tender ^kln. quick, steady jerk towards the tall.
The breast is soft and pliable and If you pull backwards you will be
full, the feet moist and limbeT, the apt to tear the skin. After picking
eyes full and bright. Old cfllckens well and taking out all of the pin
are known by the opposite character- feathers, singe the fowl by putting
istics. paper in the fire and letting it blaze
A capon is alw^ays larger and fat- up. Pass the fowl backward and
ter than the ordinary fowl, but it forward over the blaze and over and
also makes far more delicate eating. around, being careful not to burn the
For this reason the capon is always skin.
given the preference at fashionable Then proceed to clean the fowl,
feasts. A duck, to be good, must cutting off first the feet at the first
be young and fat, with light semi- joint,detaching the skin at the neck
transparent soft breastbone; the without breaking it, and drawing but
breast should be plump as well as whole the craw of the fowl. Cut oft
fat. In the young duck one always the bleeding end of the neck and
finds that the under bill will break draw the skin over.
easily, and that the lower part of Make aunder the rump of the
slit
the legs and the webbing of the feet chicken Just large enough for you to
are soft and fresh colored, and that draw out easily all the internal or-
the windpipe breaks when pressed gans, .beinjg.,careful to feel your way,
between the fingers. Ducks are best and very, very careful, indeed, not
in fall and winter. to break the gallbag' or any of the
Geese live to be very old. The entrails. The contents of either ren-
greatest care must, therefore, be tak- der the chicken most unpalatable if
en Ih buying a goose. Look for the spilled over it. In this case be care-
same characteristics as in the young ful to wash the chicken immediately
duck. A goose, to be fit for eating, and thoroughly before the gall has
must never be over three years old. time to penetrate far. After clean-
The year-old goose is always the nig out the chicken, rinse It inside
best. To positively determine the and out and set' It in a cool place.
young goose examine the legs. They Proceed to clean She giblets, cut the
will be covered with a soft down outer coat of the> gizzard and- draw
Ill

off unbroken the inner lining, con- and then sew up the slit in the skin,
taining' the' sand. Cat the gallbagr fastening the skin by a pteee of
from the liver, being very careful not thread tied around the neck or fold-
to break it; if you do, throw the liver ing it over and fastening with a
away. Cut open the heart and remove small skewer. Then stuff the body
all clotted blood. of the turkey. Push the legs under
Geese, pigeons and birds of all the skin near the rumpp cross them
kinds are cleaned in the same man- and fasten them with a small skewer
ner. or tie with a piece of twine. Turn
Poultry should never be cooked un- the wings back, under the body of
til fiveor six hours after it has been the fowl. Bub the turkey all over
killed, but it should be picked and with butter or lard, and place in
drawn 3s soon as possible. Soda, the baking pan that has been
being cl^%nsing, acts as a corrective greased lightly. Bake the turkey In
and destroys that unpleasant taste a quick oven, allowing about fifteen
which is frequently experienced in minutes to every pound. Baste every
dressing when a fowl has been killed ten minutes or so with its own drip-
some time and allowed to remain pings. When done, remove the twine
with the intestines undrawn, as often and the skewer and place on a hot
happens with fowl or game purchased dish, garnished nicely with parsley,
in city markets or stores. The flavor and serve. The turkey breast should
diffuses itslf_ through the meat and always be carved in delicate slices.
renders it distasteful. In this case, In making the dressing of any
after taking out the intestines, rinse kind, always take up the liver and
the fowl inside and out in several heart, which you have seasoned well
waters. Then add a teaspoonful of and minced very fine, and add to the
baking soda to a quart of water and turkey, dressing and mixing thor-
rinse again thoroughly. This pro- oughly.
cess will neutralize all sourness and
unpleasant taste. Roast Turkey With Truffles.
Having prepared your fowl, cook Dinde Truff6e Botie.
according to any of the following di- 1 Fine Young Hen Turkey.
rections: 1 Pound of Lean Ham, Cut into Dice.
TURKEY. 2 Pounds of Truffles. % Nutmeg.
Dfnde.
% of a Teaspoonful of Pepper.
1 Bay Leaf, Minced Fine.
The turkey hen is called "dinde," Clean and prepare the turkey for
the turkey gobbler "dindon." The roasting as directed in the above re-
preference in eating, Is <ftlways given cipe. Put a saucepan on the fire and
to the "dinde," as the <Mindons" never put in the ham cu;t into dice. When
make quite such excelljent dishes. hot add two pounds of the very best
Turkey may be roasfed, stewed or truffles and the grated nutmeg, the
made into gumbo. Only a very old pepper and a minced bay leaf. Stir
and lean turkey is ever stewed. It is over the fire for about fifteen njin-
utilized in this way as a home dish, utes. Then take off and let cpol.
never on the company table. The When it is cold stuff the place at
boned turkey is the triumph of the the neck of the turkey whence you
New Orleans cuisine when serving take the craTV, and sew up and ar-
cold turkey. No great reception or range as indicated in the directions
buffet luncheon is complete without for dressing a turkey. Stuff the body
it. the standing dish on New
It is of the turkey with the remainder of
rear's day, when the Creole ladies the truffles and sew it up and truss
rec3ive their gentlemen friends, and, it. Set it in the oven and roast
on occasions of marriages in the according to the above recipe, serv-
family, every father will insist that ing with a Sauce aux Truffles. This
there shall be a boned turkey for the is a very expensive dish.
wedding feast.
Roast Turkey liVlth IMushrooins.
Roast Turkey. Dinde Botie Farcie aux Chamingnons.
Dinde Botie. Proceed in the above manner, sub-
1 Turkey. 2 TaWesroonfuls of Butter, Salt stituting mushrooms instead.
and Pepperto Taste.
Dressing According to Taste, Turkey With Chestnuts or Oysters.
A
hen turkey is always best for Dinde Botie Farcie aux Marrons~ou
roasting. Clean amT prepare the aux Hultres.
turkey according to the directions
given. Make a nice stuffing either Prepare the turkey In the manner
of oysters, egg, truffles or chestnuts indicated in "Boast Turkey;" stuff
(see Dressings for Fowls.) Bub the according to taste with either a
turkey well with salt and pepper in- Chestnut or Oyster Dressing (see re-
side and out, and then rub the inside cipes under chapter "Stuffings and
with butter, using about a half ta- Dressings for Poultry, Game, etc.")
blespoonful. Stuff first the space and cook as in recipe for "Boast Tur-
from which yqu took out the craw key." Chestnut and OySter Stuffings
112

are favorite Creole dressings for tur- knife between the' bones and the
keys. flesh to the wings, and, on reaching
Turkey en Daube. the Joints, unjoint and separate the
Dinde en Daube. bones from the body without break-
ing the flesh; in likemanner remove
1 Large' Turkey. each bone as you reach the Joint, ex-
1 Bunch Each of Parsley, Thyme and Small cept the small bone in the tips of the
Celery Leaves. wings, which cannot be taken out
Large Slice o Salt Pork. easily and which are generally left
2 Onions end 2 Carrots, Sliced. on. Carefully slit out the bones of
10 Cloves. Calfs Foot. % the leg, and then run the knife be-
1 Clove of Garlic. Bouquet of Sweet Herbs.
tween the bones and flesh till you
VA Pints of Broth or Boiling Water. come to the breast bone. Skillfully
2 Spoonfuls of Brar.uy.
1 Pint of White Wine.
separate the flesh from the bone by
running the knife between, being'
Clean and prepare the turkey as careful to pull it out without break-
In the above directions, then stuff ing the flesh of the turkey. After
either with egg dressing or oyster removing the carcass, spread out the
stuffing. Rub well with salt and turkey, which will be whole, and
pepper. Place at the bottom of a wipe inside and out with a damp
deep pot slender strips of salt pork towel, and rub well with salt and
and half of a calf's foot, well pre- pepper, inside and out. Set aside in
pared. Place on top lOf this the a cool place and prepare the follow-
slices of onions, carrots, fine herbs, ing dressing or stufflng: Take two
minced nicely; garlic, minced, cel- pounds of young veal, one pound of
ery, parsley, etc., and lay the turkey young, fresh pork, and one pound
fat,
on this bed. Pour over it one pint of lean
fresh pork. Mince these
of white wine and two tablespoonfuls as fine as possible, and then season
of brandy, and one pint and a half as follows: One-half of a nutmeg,
of good broth or boiling water. Sea- finely grated; one tablespoonful of
son well to taste and cover tightly. minced parsley; one of minced thyme,
Set on the stove to simmer very three of minced bay leaves, one tea-^
slowly for at least Ave hours if the fepoonful of salt and one of black
turkey is it once very
old. Turn pepper, a teaspoonful of grated cin-
carefully when
done cooking.half namon, one-quarter teaspoonful of
After five hours, lift the turkey out grated allspice and the Juice of one
of the sauce, place on a hot dish. onion. Mix all this thoroughly in
Strain the sauce through a sieve, and the stuffing. Add two raw eggs,
if the turkey is served at once, serve beaten well; one wineglass full of
hot in a separate dish. If not, pour Sherry and one of Brandy; stir well.
it over the turkey and set it away to When ^ell mixed add one-quarter of .

cool. It will become quite jellied a box of truffles, chopped, but not too-
and makes an excellent luncheon flne. Take the turkey, lay it open
dish. and carefully cut a layer of meat in
Boned Turkey. nice slices from the inner part. Then
Gelatine TrufE6e a, la GelSe. put in a thick layer of the stuffing,
1 Young Turkey Hen.
and lay over this a layer of the meat,,
2 Pounds of Young Veal.
using the whole liver, sliced in strips,
Pound of Pat Fresh Pork
1
also as alternate layers; then put
1 Pound of Lean Fresh Pork. in the rest of the stuffing as a layer,
Yi Pound of Cooper's Gelatine.
and bring the turkey nicely together
Vi Can of Truffles. and sew up so that it will retain its
I' Tahlespoonful Each of Minced Parsley,
original shape. Have ready a nice,
and Thyme. clean towel; roll the turkey in the
3 Minced Bay Leaves. 1 Lemon. towel, and tie it securely at both
3 Sprigs Each of Thyme and Bay Leaf. ends and around the middle in a
1 Glass of Brandy. solid way. Take all the bones of the
1 Wineglass of Sherry. 2 Carrots. turkey, the skinned feet, cleaned
1 Turnip. 1 Stalk of Celery. head and all, and place in a large
2 Gallons of Water. pot. Add two pounds of veal, cut
% Teaspoontul Each of Grated Cinnamon and in pieces, and two calves' feet. Put
Allspice. in two carrots, one turnip, several
sprigs of thyme and parsley, three
For this highly-prized dish, select bay leaves and a large piece of cel-
a young hen turkey. It must be

hand-picked that is, it must not be
ery. Add two gallons of water, and
let this boil very hard for an hour.
scalded, or it -will be unfit for the
purpose of boning. Clean it thor-
Then add the turkey which you wilL
oughly, and, when well cleansed,
have tied in the towel and let it boil
for two hours. After two hours,
place the turkey on the table, yitji
the breast down, and take a sliarp take the turkey out of the towel.
It 'vlll have shrunken up by this time-
penknife, or a very sharp-poin,ted and the towel will be crinkled great-
knife, and cut the turkey o^en friom ly. Roll the towel out very smooth-
the, neck to the rump, down the back-
ly again, and place the turkey back-
bone. Then, with great care, run the in it while hot,' and roll carefully
'
113

again. Tie it at both ends and across Broiled Chicken.


the middle,and then place on a table Poulet Grill*.
and put a board or plank on top, and
over this a flfteen-pound weight. A Spring Chicken. Meltefl Butter.
Leave it in a cool place, but not in Salt and Pepper to Taste.
the ice box, as it must cool grad-
ually and naturally. After it has Select spring chickens for broil-
cooled five on six hours you may ing. For a family
of six several
put it in the ice box. will be required. Clean the chick-
In the meantime you will have left ens, nicely, singe, and then split dowr
on the fire the pot with the water, the middle of the back, laying the
bones, etc., in vfhich the turkey has chicken open. Break the breastbone
been boiled. Let it boil for two hours with a mallet and flatten out the
longer, with the bones and all. Then chicken. Season well with salt anc
take oil and drain the whole through pepper, and brush with melted but-
a strainer, first letting the juice fall ter. Have the broiler ready over a
in another pan; then strain this moderate fire, and place the chicken
through a towel, for there must be between (the double broiler is best)
no pieces of cinnamon or herbs or and let the fowl broil slowly for
dregs in this Jelly. Skim off all the about a half hour, if the chicken is
grease that floats on top, being care- very tender, otherwise three-quarters
ful not to leave a particle. Put it of an. hour. It is well to keep a plate
on the flre again, and let it simmer. over it all the time, as it will re-
Add to the boiling mixture one lemon tain its flavor better. Turn the chick-
arid skin, cut in four or five pieces, en frequently, so that it may be
and season with salt to taste. Put broiled through and through. H
in a bowl one-quarter of a pound should be slightly browned on the
of Cooper's gelatine, and add one pint skin side. When done, place in s
of water in which the turkey has heated\dish, pour over melted butter
been boiled; stir well and let the and garnish with chopped parslej
gelatine melt. When well melted, and serve hot. A garnish of cresses
pour into the boiling mixture and is" very pretty. The dish is then
beat it as you would a cake, mixing called "Poulet Grille aux Cressons.'
thoroughly. Take another bowl-, and
break three raw eggs in it, and mash Boiled Cliiekeii.
the shells and add; add one small Poulet Bouilli.
wineglass of water and beat well
again, as you would a cake. Prepare A Spring Cliieken. Drawn Butter Sauce.
a flannel bag of size sufficient to hold Salt and Pepper to Taste.
a half gallon. Then pour the; eggs
into the broth beating very thorough- Select a nice spring chiolcen, clear
and singe and split down the mid-
ly and rapidly through and through
for ten minutes, while it remains on dle of the back. Season with sail
the fire. The moment it begins to boil and pepper, rubbing well on the in-
up it will curdle; then take the mix- side of the chicken. Place in a
ture off and strain in the flannel bag. saucepan and cover well with water
Let this fall into a few tin cups or and let it. simmer well for one hour
cans, for they are best, and set on if the chicken is young. If the
chicken is a year old and over, lei
ice. The next morning it will be two hours, according
hard. Then unroll the turkey and it simmer for
put it in a dish; cut the jelly from to age. When done take out of the
the can into fancy shapes and orna- water and place in a heated dish
ment the turkey with it, placing a Pour over a Drawn Butter Sauce
and garnish Witt
fancy border around the dish. Tou (see recipe)
will have a dish that a king might chopped parsley.
envy.
Creamed Chicken.
Boned chicken may be prepared in
exactly thesame way. Poulet a. la' CrSme.
1 Chicken. Salt and Pepper to -Taste.
CHICKEN. A Cream Sauce.

Select a fine one-year-old chicken


and clean, singe and boil according t(
Poulet. the above recipe, first having cut ir
joints, however. In boiling always
may be broiled, boiled, simply cover the chicken with water
Chickens otherwise you will have chicker
fried, baked or smothered.
stewed,
,

soup, all the nutriment of the chick-


For broiling, always purchase spring en being absorbed by the soup. Wher
chickens. For baking, the chicken cooked for an hour or longer, if th(
must be young and lender. For in- chicken is now very tender, take oui
valids, a delicately boiled spring of the saucepan and place in a disl
chicken, with Drawn Butter Sauce,
is
and pour over a Cream Sauce (sec
most nutritious and easily diges- recipe^, and serve.
tible diah.
,

114

DeTlIed Chicken. minutes and then add the chopped


Poulet a. la Diable. thyme, parsley and bay leaf. The
latter must be minced very fine. Stir
1 Chicken. 1 Tablespoonful of Butter. well and often. When every piece
Tablespoonful of Flour.
1 is nicely browned, add one pint and
1 Onion. 1Bay Leaf. 1 Sprig of ParBley. a h.a