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“The internet allows people to present
an inflated and self-focused view of
themselves to the world”
Twenge & Campbell (2005)
PERCIEVING
TAM

Model: Tam Dexter
Photography: Talia White
Makeup Artist: Jade Victoria

Tam Dexter, one of the North’s most Do you feel that working as a model in
desired and booked models, kick the Fashion Industry has affected your
started her modelling career 2 years ago self-perception and body image at all?
through Nemesis Models, Manchester
and posting her test shots on the social Not as much as some people may think.
media platform Instagram. Obviously I look at other girls that go to
the gym a lot, and I’m like “wow I need
With already 32k Instagram followers at to go gym more” [laughs], but I’m happy
the age of 23, you’ll see Tam modelling with my body and I get booked for work,
for the likes of Hotmess, Luxe to Kill, so clients must like me.
Runway96, Baby Milk Clothing, Maniere
Devoir, Baziic and Jade Clark. Do you think that seeing successful
models on social media, could issues
But, how does building a modelling in young females? Especially those who
business through social media affect are wanting to follow your footsteps?
your self-perception as your popularity
grows and you become more, and more 100% of images on Instagram can be so
‘in-demand’? Tam tells all on how it false; lighting and photoshop have more
feels to be on the industry side of the than likely been used. If I wasn’t in the
lens in modern day society, and how fashion industry I wouldn’t know about
the modelling indsutry could affect the the amount of editing that goes into
perceptions and identities of the public. post-production images.

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PERCIEVINGtam

Do you feel that working as a model,
there is a certain expectation of you to
‘look’ a certain way all of the time?
When I was 16 I didn’t care about what
I looked like compared to girls in the I don’t think there is a certain way they
lower generation, but it seems 16-24 want you to look, but I know companies
year olds mainly have their head in their want variety in models, i.e. hair colour,
phone on social media platforms at cut and maybe physique too. As a model
the moment, and that can’t be good you need to be looking your best at all
for them. times, I make sure my hair, nails and skin
are in perfect condition all the time.
Do you think social media has had
any negative impact in your modelling What aspects of the Fashion and Beauty
career to date, especially being 22 and Industries in particular do you feel most
working within the realms of fashion? affect self-perception and body image
issues of viewers and customers?
No not really, I don’t think I have enough
followers for it to have a negative impact Photoshop is a big one, how you can
on me. I see girls with 50k plus followers change someones whole image and then
and they get abused in the comments
on their own images, it’s disgusting. I
think if it got to that I would come off “SOMETIMES I LOOK AT
social media as there’s more to life than MYSELF AND I DON’T
people saying nasty things when they
don’t even know the person that they’re EVEN LOOK LIKE ME IN
being negative towards. THE MIRROR BECAUSE
I’M CONTOURED TO
Have you had any negative experiences
with brands or modelling agencies HIGH HEAVENS!”
where perhaps their expectations of
you were different? Perhaps post- use the image everywhere is false to me.
production images can give clients an Within the beauty industry, obviously
idea of something that isn’t ‘real’? makeup is a huge part. Sometimes I look
at myself and I don’t even look like me
No not yet, and I hope I don’t in the in the mirror because I’m contoured to
future. All my agencies have been really high heavens! So young girls wanting to
happy with me and my shape, and we look like a model or a blogger that they
also do test shoots for my portfolio have seen because they contour or use
showing a range or pre and post- MAC makeup would be a massive self
production images. perception issue!

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PERCIEVINGtam

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PERCIEVINGtam

Working around this major issue in
the Fashion Industry, ASOS for example,
have a Model Welfare Policy in place to
ensure that all of the models used in
Has imagery of you been published their promotional materials are deemed
whereby your body or ‘real’ body ‘healthy’ in regards to physique and
shape, has been digitally manipulated weight. Have you had any similar
without your say? positive experiences with brands or
modelling agencies where policies
No never, most photographers say I’m are enforced or positive body image
really easy to work with as I don’t need is promoted?
photoshop as my skin in great.
This is the best thing that’s came to the
How do you feel in general about using fashion indsutry and the wider society. I
digitally manipulated photography? don’t work with a company that has any
policy in place, but I think it should be
I think it’s ridiculous. If they found a implimented worldwide.
model with what they was looking for
instead of creating a fake image of
somebody to fit ‘the brand’, or ‘look’ “CAN YOU IMAGINE
I think the world would be a better LOOKING AT AN IMAGE
place in terms of self-perception and
self-confidence. At least young girls
OF YOURSELF WHICH
would know the image is a real person, LOOKS NOTHING
and could aspire to that and not a false LIKE YOU? I CAN ONLY
entity created for sales and the media.
IMAGINE THE SADNESS”
Do you think clients and brands can get
away with such manipulation without Do you feel that the use of a National or
their being any impact on the model? International Policy on ‘healthy’ model
use and positive body image would help
It’s really sad, it’s like the client doesn’t the industry in regards to promoting
know that the model will know that they body confidence and positive
have changed it completely. Can you self-esteem within young females?
imagine looking at a image of yourself
which looks nothing like you? I can only 100% there is a lot of models that are
imagine the sadness that I would feel if so underweight, even some that I have
I witnessed it, and it happened to me! worked with. To young girls they look
I think it would be really damaging and amazing, but if a doctor was to analyse
could lower your confidence massively. them, I am sure they would be worried.

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SELFIE AD SELFIE AD
Self-Photography,
Narcissism, and Self-Esteem
Self-Photography,
Narcissism, and Self-Esteem
MULVEY
CHANGING GAZE

Write introduction to the article.
Wishpond claim that there are 7.3m
daily active users on Instagram alone,
generating on average 575 photo ‘likes’
and 81 comments per second per day.
And with this, a 2017 study carried out in
the UK with 1,500 14-24 year olds, found
that Instagram has been rated the ‘worst
app for mental health issues’, affecting
users self-esteem and body image, due
to a constant feed and infux of imagery
showcasing ideals, filtered selfies and
body shots. This has led to social media
being recognized as having the same
effects on ones self-perception as the
‘male gaze’, due to an internalisation
of an ‘ideal image’ which one comes to
recognise as ‘normal’. The ‘male gaze’ is
a term coined by feminist film theorist
Laura Mulvey in her groundbreaking and
renowned 1975 essay “Visual Pleasures
and Narrative Cinema” which explores

00
THEgaze

a world of sexual imbalance, where a and beauty. Mulvey calls this ‘the female [are not] aimed at selling anything ‘ideal’, shaping and creating unattainable
pleasure of looking has primarily been of gaze’ stating that women see themselves specific, but instead work to give a and unmaintainable aspirations for
the active male, and the passive female, through the eyes of men, therefore brand a certain set of values or a certain both men and women. This can lead to
who becomes ‘the display’ with the pre- influencing our choices on what is emotional association”. This however in eating disorders, body image issues,
determined intention of “look at me”. perceived and deemed attractive by the turn aims to change one’s sense of self mental health problems and further
opposite sex, or the ‘male gaze’. through reflected and standardised/ issues with confidence and self-esteem,
The gaze has been seen in the media for advertised ideals, and gazes, which for example. This has since been
decades, in the editorials of Vogue, in By adhering, one is put under constant can ultimately be dangerous for the confirmed through studies and user-led
porn, and through key establishments pressure feeling the ‘gaze’ consciously, one creating the content, and those surveys. Photo sharing platforms and
such as Playboy, shaping how women even if self-led. In a digital age though, viewing it. photo-led applications allow for users
are perceived by men, and in turn this gaze is also felt under lenses and to critique themselves, and the more
how they perceive themselves. In the screens, with one being in complete However as social media has led to these platforms/apps are used the more
1950’s Playboy Bunnies in Chicago, control as to how they project their males also becoming more prominent critiquing and self-evaluating may take
whereby they were objects of both male own image, often being aware that one in the fashion and beauty industries, place, altering ones self-perception due
attention and the male gaze due to their is being gazed at, for either positive or and gender is considered more ‘equal’ to internalising of a pre-determined
‘uniforms’, in turn becoming the ‘ideal’ negative critique and judgement. This this has blurred boundaries and has ideal, or ‘image’.
and ‘sex symbols’ of the era. Shields is often seen in the feeds of Instagram, also taken away the stereotyping that
and Heinecken stated that this can be even now under the beauty-sphere, with the male gaze once was. Now, this has Fellow writer Klein, also notes that
“overwhelming, and in turn, distorted”, bloggers adopting these approaches become generalised as ‘the gaze’ and “social media makes social comparisons
whereby, one becomes unable to to self-promote; the tides have turned has become more subjective than ever. even more competitive” due to having
recognise the ‘ideal’, nor reality, adding from primary uses within fashion likes, comments and followers to gage
additional pressure to look a certain way and editorial advertising. Writer, Liu, The various representations of both their self-worth and beauty from, in
and conform to a socio-culturally pre- summarises this notion perfectly; “social male and female ‘ideals’ which social some cases establishing their level of
set ‘norm’ derived from such gazes. media makes this a time when the visual media in particular promote, can be confidence and self-esteem. The higher
begins to take prominence over the real. said to confuse one’s self-perception the number, the better ones self-
Theorist Shields expands on this, Instead of experiencing our lives from and the understanding of what the perception is. The lower the number,
explaining the ‘male gaze theory’ in our own vantage points, we now see the ‘ideal’ is, and therefore what beauty, the lower the self-esteem. A vicious
everyday terms; allowing for women to world from how others will view and or body image is. This confusion and cycle, which is no good for any social
be seen as objects of “the heterosexual respond to our vantage points. When internalisation can lead to the ‘self- media user, and shows how damaging
man’s eye”, and claims that it is this we are all responsible for creating our surveying gaze’ which can overwhelm these image-led platforms can be.
awareness which allows for women to own media, we are always visible and one and in turn will be no longer able to
adopt different perspectives to see therefore, always ‘seen’”. recognise ones true perception opposed Even though images are constructed,
themselves through the eye of the to a perceived perception. curated, edited and filtered to project
third person. This allows one to view Johnson (2008, P.207), pins this thought an ideal and positive image, or more
themselves in this way opposed to how of vantage points on the ideology of Rumsey, another theorist and writer, accurately, how someone wants to be
they actually see themselves, judging a brand, or self-branding marketing claims that, the “media helps to shape perceived, Hong notes that
others in the same vein also - through a strategies as often seen with influencers claims that, the “media helps to shape “perceptionsare not shaped exclusively
male eye. In addition, by adopting this adopting ‘porn chic’ style beauty ideals by showing certain body by what profile users disclose about
view point, one becomes aware of what sizes [as...] beautiful and desirable” themselves but also based on others’
‘the male’ wants to see, pre-empting promotions and campaigns, noting insinuating that the media is responsible comments”, being titled the “warranting
this notion through dress, body and that; “’product [or brand] ambassadors’ for choosing who and what is seen as the principle; judgments from other-

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THEgaze

“BOUNDARIES ARE
NOW BLURRING AND
THE TIDE IS TURNING.
POSITIVE BODY IMAGE
AWARENESS IS NOW
OUT THERE NOT TO
BE IGNORED BUT
CELEBRATED. THERE
IS STILL A LOT TO BE
DONE HOWEVER”

generated information is more
influential than judgments from self-
generated material”. This allows for a
whirlwind of self-perception issues
to be sparked and further stimulated,
allowing for one to value and judge self-
worth and perceptions based on others’
opinions opposed to ones own thoughts.
Third person perspectives instilled
through socio-cultural influences and
expectations build an ‘ideal’ image
which for some is unrealistic and
unmaintainable or attainable leading to
a barrage of problems. This leads to the
question; is there going to be a tipping
point for these platforms when sensors
are placed and rules are put in place
to protect users, or is there going to
be educational materials showing how
such platforms can be damaging? Or we
will, as a society, continue to self-derail
and damage each others wellbeing,
self-hood and self-identity for our own
security and positive approval?

00
“With enough work people can
construct the appearance that they
want. Such understanding emphasises
the visual, pointing towards a world of
gazes, mirrors and spectacles”
Stratton (1996)
MODERN
MUSE

Model: Aimee Song
Photography: Song of Style

At a time when less than 50% of
18-24 year old females read Fashion
and Beauty magazines, the world is Aimee Song falls into this group. But
turning into a digital entity, allowing for not only does she fall in to the group,
not only magazines to question their she helped create it. The first fashion
standing, but allowing for everyday blog appeared online in 2003, and ‘Song
people to become part of the ‘in-group’, of Style’ (Aimee’s blog) launched in
and present themselves how they want 2005, and quite literally took over. She
to be seen, in return for reassaurance began blogging while studying interior
and ‘likes’, boosting ones self-esteem, architecture in San Francisco, originally
confidence and potential career goals as an outlet for interior design shots. On
in the blogging realm. This instant a whim, Song uploaded a photograph of
accessibilty to, and obsession with social one of her outfits and it quickly sparked
media, allows for one to create a style positive feedback from strangers around
for themselves, and in turn creating and the world online. Then the luxury brands
curating their own digital magazines, followed in tow. Now, Aimee has an
opposed to being dictated to by monthly Influencer Agency whom are also in
editors within publishing to dictate control of Instagram, YouTube, Twitter
what is ‘in’, or ‘not’. These ‘magazines’ and Pintrest, which reaches more than
are not page turners however, they 8m followers collectively. She also has a
are Instagram feeds, online blogs and team of photographers whom follow and
Pintrest accounts, documenting their capture her every move, at home in LA
every move, every ‘look’ and style. or on her travels.

00
MODERNmuse

Due to her success, a booked titled by Macy’s ‘flea-fashion’ ambassador.
‘Capture Your Style’ has been released; Song is clearly being recognised by
Song’s own guide to branding yourself Wintour and major brand leaders as a
for social media, and was instantly force not to be reckoned with, but to be
featured in both The New York Times joined.
and Forbes Magazine. This is where
the magazine VS blogger challenge lies But with this influencer game comes a
though; are magazines being outdone dangerous side note of how Instagram
my marketing extraordinares and and social media can make, the ‘normal’
influencers, whom now have more person feel, or the person who has tried
influence over consumer culture than their best at blogging but still cannot
Anna Wintour from Vogue US? It’s highly reach that status. ‘Capture Your Style’ is
possible. sold and marketed as follows;

Stratton claims that, “[with enough work] “Inside, you’ll learn ways to craft your
people can construct the appearance voice and story on Instagram: all about
that they want. Such understanding how to edit your photos using the best
emphasises the visual, pointing towards apps and filters, how to prop and
a world of gazes, mirrors and spectacles style food and fashion photos, how
where they eye is the central sense to gain more followers, and secrets
and the body is its major focus”. This behind building a top Instagram brand,
is resonant with social media and transforming an Instagram hobby into a
magazines, whereby the camera, or successful business”
public eye becomes a mirror, allowing
for distorted self-perceptions, with Sound appealing? Of course. But how
one being unable to recognise what does living a life of curated, filtered
is real, or not, adding aesthetic pressure, and edited images make the everyday
especially in a world of social media. person feel? Song would argue that
For Song these spectacles and she, “represents the masses because
constructive work has worked incredibly I’m a real person, not a supermodels
well; Since reaching influencer stardom, or celebrity, so consumers can relate
she has been made brand ambassador more”, yet if you ask someone on the
for Laura Mercier, launched her own highstreet, someone from the ‘norm’,
fashion line, called Jame, guest-edited they would argue that such bloggers
Korean Vogue, walked the Dolce and “present and represent an impossible
Gabbana SS17 catwalk show at NYFW, and ideal look which the average person
has featured in Vogue US and Women’s cannot achieve. If only Instagram made
Wear Daily. In addition, collaborations real life filters.. you can’t edit real life”.
have been formed with brands such as
True Religion, Fossil, Levi’s and 7 for All This statement can make one feel
Mankind, and has since been employed unsettled, but also can make one

00
MODERNmuse

question this new career choice of Compared to magazines where one
Influencer marketing and blogging in knows that the photography or editorials
relation to self-perceptions, aspirations which are being viewed or directed, are
and ideals. In regard to this, due to the curated and fuelled by models, makeup
continuous ‘perfect’ posts and ‘ease’ artists, hairdressers and stylists, social
of some bloggers reaching international media paints a picture that what one
influencer status, it can be taken that posts from their personal account is
every photo is not, planned and edited ‘real’. Magazines can be interpreted
post-production, however Song’s book, in different ways due to being mass
captures this process diminishing the produced for a wide audience within
secrets of bloggers everywhere. In some a ‘designed demographic’, dependant
ways, this is a positive that she has upon the viewer, how they percieve it,
revealed how ‘bloggers’ and ‘influencers’ and ultimately if they choose to read
work; based on their contructed lives, that particular publication. However,
whilst to those who do not follow her with social media, each blog is tailored
or know of ‘Capture Your Style’, may be and is directed to a very specific type
niave to this process and ‘take whay they of person, through the use of hashtags
see as real’. and curated imagery. Influencers are
becoming the new models, role models
Due to the rise in ‘blogger culture’ in the and leaders of the fashion world,
past decade, many theorists have began dominating the social media scene and
to adapt their research and analogies to the publishing world. Social media users
this phenomenon and how this affects may see this a positive, or a negative,
the viewer. Tagg took the lead, stating, depending on their mind-set and
“status [within] technology varies with viewers on the bloggersphere, whilst
the power relations that invest [in] it”, brands are using influencers opposed
whilst Rose claims; “photography is to models to endorse and promote
often thought of as picturing reality”, their brands and products; through
implying that fabricated realities such both catwalk shows and PR stunts via
as Song’s, may impact on the self- social media. But, ultimately, magazine
perception, confidence and self-esteem publishers are turning a negative of
of the viewer. a preference of social media into a
positive, in an aim to counteract their
In contrast, it can also be said that sales and open doors to new readership.
there is a sense of pleasure and
gratification that is gained through This combined strategy of utilising
‘looking’ at what we cannot have or different media channels in an aim to
achieve, allowing one to still feel in tune re-vamp a fading world of print-based
with such lifestyles, therefore using editorials appears to be working, but
social media platforms such as Instagram how long until these modern muses
and YouTube everyday. completely take over?

00 00
“Different people of different
cultural backgrounds, under different
circumstances and at different times
make different meanings, and so
create and experience different
social realities”
Saunders (2012)
MILK
& HONEY

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et doloriatio. Oriam, ut pora volum dolupta Nest quo te officiae. Et et deles dis pratempor-

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MILK&honey

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00 00
MILK&honey

Eliquidus, omnis exceres et debitae optaerem.
Ut fugias quia dera nihit molore, ium velende
et quistia nisque prere, excepe ommoditas
quidi comnimust imaio con essinve ndandunt
apernam reptatusant.
Minvendit laut quassit ut vollit rendior esci-
ent iberchiciant del magnatium landaepudis
que raerum am harchilit que nimendunt, nim
recate et evellendita iusamus estiatem as a
ducimollam, quame porehenda seque natur,
officim aut acculparum earuntisquia sitio tem-
porum et que consent repudae quia quatur?
Nest quo te officiae. Et et deles dis pratempor-
ro consed quam quis adipsa sit, cus.
To to ommosan ientiustrum rem vernam Eliquidus, omnis exceres et debitae optaerem.
quodit voloria nessum is re nimusanda vo- Ut fugias quia dera nihit molore, ium velende
lorrore il magnihil ilia que porumqu idusam- et quistia nisque prere, excepe ommoditas
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andesequisti natiur? Lore posanimpore sincid apernam reptatusant.
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tisqui voluptae. Nam, as aci cus. ent iberchiciant del magnatium landaepudis
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denissim sus.
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veritis nulpa nati totatibus, excepudit idel is re
nienihit, cullaborem sus audit ut fuga. Natque
excea quatend aepero maximaximet quatur
milibus as andae. Pis id quaspe is aut ipita
venes estem eum vellam es as nulla que plam,
aciam vent aut modipie nihillande nimus aut

00
MILK&honey

Eliquidus, omnis exceres et debitae optaerem. Eliquidus, omnis exceres et debitae optaerem.
Ut fugias quia dera nihit molore, ium velende Ut fugias quia dera nihit molore, ium velende
et quistia nisque prere, excepe ommoditas et quistia nisque prere, excepe ommoditas
quidi comnimust imaio con essinve ndandunt quidi comnimust imaio con essinve ndandunt
apernam reptatusant. apernam reptatusant.
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ent iberchiciant del magnatium landaepudis ent iberchiciant del magnatium landaepudis
que raerum am harchilit que nimendunt, nim que raerum am harchilit que nimendunt, nim
recate et evellendita iusamus estiatem as a recate et evellendita iusamus estiatem as a
ducimollam, quame porehenda seque natur, ducimollam, quame porehenda seque natur,
officim aut acculparum earuntisquia sitio tem- officim aut acculparum earuntisquia sitio tem-
porum et que consent repudae quia quatur? porum et que consent repudae quia quatur?
Nest quo te officiae. Et et deles dis pratempor- Nest quo te officiae. Et et deles dis pratempor-
ro consed quam quis adipsa sit, cus. ro consed quam quis adipsa sit, cus.
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quodit voloria nessum is re nimusanda vo- quodit voloria nessum is re nimusanda vo-
lorrore il magnihil ilia que porumqu idusam- lorrore il magnihil ilia que porumqu idusam-
us eaquias samenis voluptae sae es estibus us eaquias samenis voluptae sae es estibus
andesequisti natiur? Lore posanimpore sincid andesequisti natiur? Lore posanimpore sincid
et doloriatio. Oriam, ut pora volum dolupta et doloriatio. Oriam, ut pora volum dolupta
tisqui voluptae. Nam, as aci cus. tisqui voluptae. Nam, as aci cus.
Hendignimi, quistemposam faccusc iendam Hendignimi, quistemposam faccusc iendam
nem fuga. Itatur? nem fuga. Itatur?
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voloreptatem iunt ad quat inctias doluptat voloreptatem iunt ad quat inctias doluptat
et faciet quam, optae voluptation erferum at et faciet quam, optae voluptation erferum at
etur sum quam rem alignissi alis sum quideni etur sum quam rem alignissi alis sum quideni
mintur mo velenti optatem. Dusanis dolorem mintur mo velenti optatem. Dusanis dolorem
porerci psamus et pos aut ut que volore natus porerci psamus et pos aut ut que volore natus
adis ant. adis ant.
Nullaboris et et dolenim porero optati ullene Nullaboris et et dolenim porero optati ullene
dolupta sequae. Gent ut exero conse nul- dolupta sequae. Gent ut exero conse nul-
parum vent renimusam aperferro volor mo parum vent renimusam aperferro volor mo
denissim sus. denissim sus.
Optati omnihil eatqui doluptati volorum qui Optati omnihil eatqui doluptati volorum qui
veritis nulpa nati totatibus, excepudit idel is re veritis nulpa nati totatibus, excepudit idel is re
nienihit, cullaborem sus audit ut fuga. Natque nienihit, cullaborem sus audit ut fuga. Natque
excea quatend aepero maximaximet quatur excea quatend aepero maximaximet quatur
milibus as andae. Pis id quaspe is aut ipita milibus as andae. Pis id quaspe is aut ipita
venes estem eum vellam es as nulla que plam, venes estem eum vellam es as nulla que plam,
aciam vent aut modipie nihillande nimus aut aciam vent aut modipie nihillande nimus aut

00 00
MILK&honey

Eliquidus, omnis exceres et debitae optaerem.
Ut fugias quia dera nihit molore, ium velende
et quistia nisque prere, excepe ommoditas
quidi comnimust imaio con essinve ndandunt
apernam reptatusant.
Minvendit laut quassit ut vollit rendior esci-
ent iberchiciant del magnatium landaepudis
que raerum am harchilit que nimendunt, nim
recate et evellendita iusamus estiatem as a
ducimollam, quame porehenda seque natur,
officim aut acculparum earuntisquia sitio tem-
porum et que consent repudae quia quatur?
Nest quo te officiae. Et et deles dis pratempor-

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HARAJUKU/DECORA
STREETSTYLE
HARAJUKU/DECORA
STREETSTYLE
“The media influences slim ideals,
and potentially can trigger eating
disorders. As a result 1.6m in the UK
alone suffer”
B-EAT (2011)
CANDIDLY
ASOS

Model: Various
Photography: ASOS SS17

ASOS is known to be the number 1, global
fashion destination for 20-somethings.
Selling more than 85,000 products
through localised mobile and web
experiences, ASOS deliver daily to 240
countries and destinations around
the world. With this being said, ASOS
have a huge responsibility to ensure
that both products and advertising are
targetted responsibly to their 12.4m
diverse customers, and with their stance
as a market leader within the Fashion
Industry, ASOS take the welfare of
both their customers and models very
seriously. At a time where social media
is on the rise, and perceptions are being With ASOS being accessible to over
distorted through an array of digital 240 countries worldwide, how does
lenses, Jessica Andrews from the Social the Model Welfare policy work on
Responsibilty team and Robert Crest, a an International scale? Are different
Senior Specialist Womenswear designer ethnicties and body types accounted
for ASOS, talk candidly on the companies for in order to not only show Western
policies and procedures, ensuring good faces and physiques?
practice globally. ASOS are the only
global company to enforce such welfare JA: The main focus of the policy is the
policies, and hope to make a positive welfare and wellbeing of the models
difference in a challenging time for working with ASOS, so it doesn’t specify
Fashion; by keeping what they put out in the need to represent differences in
the media as close to ‘real’ as possible. body shapes or averages. However as

00
CANDIDLYasos

part of the wider ‘Fashion with Integrity’ So, who do you work with to form
programme we focus on diversity and such policies, and are these supported
inclusion so the model booking team going forward?
is aware of the importance of ensuring
that our models reflect our diverse RC: The design team obviously doesn’t
customer base. work in isolation. We have very strong
relationships within our Buying and
I think that ASOS does a pretty good Garment Technology teams to ensure
job of this already but we are always policies are followed throughout
striving to ensure that all body types, the process. Our supplier bases are
races, etc, are represented across all of also an extension of this and regular
our channels. contact and visits build this trust and
continue updating the information and
How are ASOS perceived in the Fashion expectations we hold within ASOS.
Industry and ecommerce world in
regards to following guidelines and JA: When forming a policy it is important
policies? It is noticed that other brands to ensure all of the relevant stakeholders
and organisations in the Industry which within the business are involved. For
do not have such pre-set policies. example, for a retouching policy this
would include a group of people, so, the
RC: I hope ASOS is perceived to be quite Production team, the model booking
aspirational in terms of body image and team and the creative directors.
dressing any body shape.
We would also potentially involve a
We have 4 womenswear specialist ‘critical friend’ i.e. a charity or initiative,
‘Own Brand’ departments – Curve, that it well known for working in the field
Tall, Petite/Petite Tall, and Maternity/ so that they can provide external advice
Maternity Tall, and we also sell ‘Branded as the policy is formed. This really helps
Specialist’ brands too. [ASOS] to ensure that we are on top of
our game, and that nothing ‘out of line’
We [ASOS] strive to be the top of our is carried out which could be perceived
game, and hope that all of the work done negatively by the viewer and consumer.
within head office is evident on site We take this quite seriously.
through both the end product and social
media outlets. We don’t use advertising, Do you believe that all brands and
aside from our own magazine which organisations in the Fashion Industry
is available to customers, we live off should follow policies and guidelines,
word of mouth and the reputation this ensuring that Positive Body Image and
spreads, the feedback we have had from Model Welfare are accounted for? Or,
questionnaires and focus groups have do you think the Industry would benefit
been very positive. from National or International policies?

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CANDIDLYasos

“BOUNDARIES ARE RC: In general, I think that there should
be a level of general awareness and
NOW BLURRING AND boundaries which industries should
THE TIDE IS TURNING. adhere to, but appreciate to make it
POSITIVE BODY IMAGE national or international would require
a big body of work. I think boundaries
AWARENESS IS NOW are now slowly blurring and with recent
OUT THERE NOT TO catwalk shows using plus size, older
BE IGNORED BUT generations and androgynous models
– the tide is turning and Positive body
CELEBRATED. THERE image awareness is now out there not to
IS STILL A LOT TO BE be ignored but celebrated. There is still
DONE HOWEVER” a lot to still be done however.

JA: I feel that all brands within the
Fashion Industry should draw up their
own policies and guidelines. I think this
would promote organic change from
within the industry that still allows for
the creativity and vision to continue but
also ensure the wellbeing of models and
the public.

When National or International policies
are put in place they can help and
promote change more quickly as long as
they are not too prescriptive. However,
these types of policies are quite often
not very easy for brands to navigate and
can become a burden with admin and
quashing creativity, so do not allow the
industry to find a positive solution from
within, which I think is what ultimately
drives long term change.

What sort of questions does the public
in regards to Body Image and Model
Welfare raise?

JA: The main questions we receive really
are in regards to our retouching policy.

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CANDIDLYasos

Have any problems arisen in regards to We also have wider programmes in place product/trends, but also just to touch
modelling agencies not complying with to highlight the impact social media base and see what’s going on in “their
these policy guidelines? can have on body image and mental family and community” of followers. This
health. For example, we work with the is an invaluable resource and is why the
RC: Not that I’m aware of, but I would “WE HAVE RESORTED Diana Award (a charity that is working customer has become more aware and
like to think that ASOS would only work TO FINDING OUR to prevent bullying) and we have been educated in the way they dress and as a
with agencies which have guidelines partnered with them for the launch of result can dress with confidence.
OWN MODELS; OFTEN
and rules which embrace and support their ‘#MySenseOfSelf!’ project which
all body types, and as a result any issues THROUGH INSTAGRAM, teaches young people about body So, what do you think are the benefits
are dealt with prior to production teams FESTIVALS, COMPS OR confidence and self-esteem. of having such ASOS policies and
meeting or hiring our models. ideologies in place?
EVEN AT TIMES FROM
The focus of the project is on an activity
JA: Yeah, I agree. Ultimately it’s up THE ASOS OFFICE!” in which they draw an outline of their RC: The benefit to me is simply having
to the ASOS Model booking team to neck and shoulders on a large piece of less boundaries, but naturally having to
decide which models we want to use media is positive and this is monitored paper and then write words around the think outside the box more because as a
on our website, or for any other media and addressed constantly. We use outline that shows what makes them up designer you aren’t always designing for
channel, so they should be following the social media as a resource to gain an (i.e. I love cooking, my favourite colour yourself – it makes you appreciate what
guidelines outlined in our policies, such understanding of what our customer is red). When they have filled the paper you are giving as a service.
as only using models with measurements needs also. This is usually free of any around their outline they take a selfie
above a UK size 8. boundaries – and sometimes the more with the paper behind them. The activity And, do you think that there are any
honest the better as all we want is to highlights that when people take selfies negative aspects or restraints in regards
However, we do sometimes face issues make sure that ASOS customers and post them on social media, the selfie to working with such strict policies
due to modelling agencies presenting are happy. doesn’t show who they are as a person and guidelines?
models that have measurements that but just what they look like, especially
are smaller than we would want to use. We have strict rules about what we can after using various filters and apps. We RC: Naturally we have to be sensitive to
For example, in the past we have had post and always address how things may are currently working with the Diana the diversity of our customer base and
challenges in finding agencies who be perceived before being posted. Award to expand on this idea to a more the different ethnic groups, and respect
supply ‘plus size’ models above a size National level and it’s an area we would their opinions and beliefs, whether this
16 and as a result have resorted to Do ASOS work with issues surrounding look to continue working in the future. is silhouette or cut, body shape, print or
finding our own models, often through social media and possible Mental Health pattern, or even the colours used.
Instagram, festivals, competitions or and Body Image issues that could be With social media taking off, do ASOS
even from the ASOS office! But you derived from this? work with bloggers coinciding with this? This is by no means a bad thing, as
know, the modelling industry is changing overall it adds another level to the
so we have seen improvements in this JA: We recognise that mental health RC: We do quite a lot of work with design process and can often influence
area recently. issues are one of the biggest challenges bloggers and influencers. For example how trends evolve. It is also a journey
facing young people today, especially for CURVE, our plus size ‘Own Brand’, from concept to sample and the end
So, how does the ASOS social media with the rise in social media use. We we have done lookbook shoots with product would hopefully not divide or
platforms comply with these policies? work really hard to ensure that our Gabi Fresh and Felicity Howard, who are deter our customer from their ASOS
social media presence is positive and great aspirational women. We also meet experience, whilst being an enjoyable
RC: Naturally we have a responsibility not negatively impacting on the mental with Plus size bloggers, both UK and learning curve and challenge for the
to ensure any imagery posted on social health and body image of our customers. international for advice and opinions on design team.

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CANDIDLYasos

00
social media, mental health
and eating disorders

cite: Article: “Social Me-
dia May Lead Women To
Self-Objectify Their Own
Body” blog post
social media, mental health
and eating disorders

cite: Article: “Social Me-
dia May Lead Women To
Self-Objectify Their Own
Body” blog post
GOOD
AMERICAN

Models: Various; The Good American Squad
Photography: Good American AW16

What inspired the two of you to start
Good American jeans?

KK: Emma and I created Good American
because we wanted jeans that can fit real
women, and we really feel like this has
been lacking in the market. Our denim
line will go from size 0 to size 24, but
2016 saw the launch of a ‘Denim we don’t consider this a plus-sized line.
Revolution’, founded by KUWTK star We consider this a line for the everyday
Khloe Kardashian and Marketing Expert woman. We believe in embracing a
Emma Greedy, making denim history. woman’s curves and I feel like now so
With sizes 00-24, Good American aims many people are breaking down these
to be a positive influence in a currently barriers of not only going to a size 6 or
negative world of body shaming and 8, which is considered “normal.” I’m
judging within the fashion industry, very proud of the message Emma and
allowing anyone from ‘skinny’ to ‘curvy’ I are trying to get out into the world
to feel beautiful in their own skin. and we really hope that it transcends
Starting from a simple conversation on into making women feel empowered in
what it means to be a woman in today’s their own skin and knowing that there’s
harsh society of critics, glares and a line that’s going to give you all these
lenses, Good American was born and is trends, you can still be fashion-forward
here to stay, make an impact and prove a and have everything that the “normal”
point; you can have clothing that is made girls have, and I hate to say that, without
to fit you, and not the other way around. having to sacrifice anything else.

00
GOODamerican

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GOODamerican

How was it decided that you would cast
real women and fans in your campaign For a lot of women, it’s so hard to find
instead of booked models? a pair of jeans that fits the right way.
How did you take that problem into
EG: Khloé put out a message on social account when it came to designing
media to say that she was launching Good American?
the brand. We really just wanted
women from all backgrounds to come EG: Well, that’s the whole thing, that’s
and be part of the campaign. We what everybody talks about and it’s not
had about 12,000 entries in 24 hours easy, that’s why not a lot of brands are
and we invited 250 people to come able to do it. We’ve spent a really, really
down to audition for the campaign; it long time developing a product that
was amazing. It was one of the most we can be proud of. There are a lot of
empowering, brilliant days because technical elements. What we’ve worked
we had all of these girls that had no really hard on is this contour waistband
idea what they were doing; they saw a which acts like a ‘self-belt’ and it means
manifesto on our website talking about that you never have that gap at the back
our values and what we wanted this if you have a smaller waist and a bigger
company to be and they responded to backside. You sometimes need to make
that. We’ve got this incredible campaign alterations and you’ll never need to do
with all these different women from that in these jeans. The fabric is super
different backgrounds, shapes, sizes, stretchy, has great recovery, the pattern
colors; it was really empowering to do is completely different so that all the
that right at the start of this brand. curve is in the hip. We’ve got some very
special stitching on our jeans so even
KK: What I took away from that the though they’re very plain, the stitching
most is that normally when you’re on is curved and it actually follows and
auditions people are like, “I’m not talking accentuates a woman’s figure.
to you, I want this role,” but everyone
who came into the room was like, “I just So, before all of this, did you have
made some new friends out there!” They someone you looked to as a positive
didn’t even know why they were there, body image role model when you were
they just knew there was a positive growing up?
message and they wanted to be part
of it. To see people that excited about KK: It’s so interesting because when
doing something that’s uplifting, that’s I was growing up heroin chic was the
something that really opened our eyes really cool thing. And there was Kate
and made us think, ‘wow there really is Moss. And she was gorgeous, but I was
a huge lack of this positivity in life and like, ‘I don’t identify with that body.’ I
building other women up in this field and always, weirdly enough, was attracted to
it’s horrible”. the Victoria’s Secret models of the world

00 00
GOODamerican

because they were more voluptuous. It
It wasn’t even because they were in bras
and panties. It was like, ‘Okay, I finally
see bodies that are a little more like
mine.’ And they’re not even bigger girls.
They just have bigger breasts and a little
curve. And also looking back there were KK: And with that we created our Good
so many girls with way bigger butts like Squad, which is the wonderful girls we
J,Lo, so it’s all good! It’s important to have representing our line. They’re bad
me, no matter what size I am or weight I ass ‘real’ girls who all have a lot going
am, to feel beautiful. Even at my biggest on in their lives. Women who are strong
I was rocking body con dresses and you and so versatile. We have girls of all
couldn’t tell me twice. That’s what I think different colors, ethnicities, heights and
Good American is. It’s about women of sizes. They have tattoos, shaved heads,
individuality and diversity, but also about literally everything. Because that’s really
being comfortable in yourself. That’s now what our world is. It’s not about the
what we’re trying to promote. It’s not cookie cutter ‘I’m a blonde with long
about fitting into a size two and that’s flowing hair’ look anymore, all people are
what makes you beautiful. I just want different and thats ok.
people to be healthy and love who they
are and be in control of your life. But it
doesn’t mean you have to be a size six. “IT’S NOT ABOUT
FITTING INTO A SIZE
So, overall, what does the name Good TWO AND THAT’S
American represent for you?
WHAT MAKES YOU
EG: First of all, we thought the name BEAUTIFUL”
Good American was a great name. But it
was more about a play on the words and Do you have any good tips for how to try
the connotations of what being “good” on denim?
means. Can you not be a really sexy girl
who shows off your body and be good EG: It’s ‘buy them online and try them
and do good in the world? We wanted at home.’ We don’t want that dressing
our company to also behave like a good room mirror situation. We stock them at
American. It’s about paying a fair living Nordstrom and we’re very, very happy to
wage to people, about operating in a be in stores, but the online experience
way people would find acceptable and has brought a whole new dimension to
manufacturing in America. So all those what is a really tricky purchase. If you
values of what it conjures up to be a can, buy a few pairs and try them on in
good American is what our company the comfort of your own home with your
should be and how it should behave. own clothes. That’s a major plus.

00 00
GOODamerican

KK: I used to be a sales employee. And
sales employees, that’s their job. I have
been convinced that I look so good in
something and I’ve gotten home and
been like, ‘What the fuck did I just
buy?’ I’m a big online shopper. I think
nowadays it’s so accessible and easy.
You can do it on your phone. I just feel
I’m making the decision myself when I
shop online.

EG: And the nice thing about our
website is we’ve shot everything on
three different sized women. So you can
see who you’re closest in size to and see
“HAVING SIZES
how she looks. Which I think is a nice
touch on the website. 0 TO 24 IS NOT A
WEIRD THING.
It’s unusual to have a online website
THE AVERAGE SIZE
that showcases the clothes in various
sizes isn’t it? WOMAN IN AMERICA
IS A SIZE 16. SHE
EG: Why isn’t everybody doing that?
SHOULD BE ABLE TO
We’re like, ‘This is such a good feeling!
Why is everyone not doing it!’ But the GO IN HER LOCAL
reality of the fashion industry is that it’s STORE AND FIND A
really stuck. It’s stuck in this idea of only
PAIR OF JEANS!”
providing sample sizes. It’s stuck in this
idea of when you’re in a department
store you can’t actually go onto the
designer denim floor and find anything
above a 10. And 10 is relatively small. It’s
ridiculous. So this feels revolutionary
because it kind of is. We actually hope
other brands follow suit and it becomes
the norm. That’s why we keep talking
about a “denim revolution.” Having sizes
0 to 24 is not a weird thing. The average
size woman in America is a size 16. She
should be able to go in her local store
and find a beautiful pair of jeans!

00
porn
chic
sex is the new way of
advertising beauty
bloggers on instagram
advertising beauty on instagram now

@ssssamanthaa
@jamiegenevieve

advertising beauty on instagram now
@desiperkins

advertising beauty on instagram now
porn chich and
self-objectification
porn chic and
self-objectification
“Fashion magazines are considered a
main source of information regarding
the attractive ideal presenting looks
and products in a way that evokes
consumers to buy into them”
Warchocki (2007) & Gonzalez, (2012)
VOGUE
JAPAN

Eliquidus, omnis exceres et debitae optaerem.
Ut fugias quia dera nihit molore, ium velende
et quistia nisque prere, excepe ommoditas
quidi comnimust imaio con essinve ndandunt
apernam reptatusant.
Minvendit laut quassit ut vollit rendior esci-
ent iberchiciant del magnatium landaepudis
que raerum am harchilit que nimendunt, nim Eliquidus, omnis exceres et debitae optaerem.
recate et evellendita iusamus estiatem as a Ut fugias quia dera nihit molore, ium velende
ducimollam, quame porehenda seque natur, et quistia nisque prere, excepe ommoditas
officim aut acculparum earuntisquia sitio tem- quidi comnimust imaio con essinve ndandunt
porum et que consent repudae quia quatur? apernam reptatusant.
Nest quo te officiae. Et et deles dis pratempor- Minvendit laut quassit ut vollit rendior esci-
ro consed quam quis adipsa sit, cus. ent iberchiciant del magnatium landaepudis
To to ommosan ientiustrum rem vernam que raerum am harchilit que nimendunt, nim
quodit voloria nessum is re nimusanda vo- recate et evellendita iusamus estiatem as a
lorrore il magnihil ilia que porumqu idusam- ducimollam, quame porehenda seque natur,
us eaquias samenis voluptae sae es estibus officim aut acculparum earuntisquia sitio tem-
andesequisti natiur? Lore posanimpore sincid porum et que consent repudae quia quatur?
et doloriatio. Oriam, ut pora volum dolupta Nest quo te officiae. Et et deles dis pratempor-
tisqui voluptae. Nam, as aci cus. ro consed quam quis adipsa sit, cus.

00
VOGUEjapan

Eliquidus, omnis exceres et debitae optaerem. Ut fugias quia
dera nihit molore, ium velende et quistia nisque prere, excepe
ommoditas quidi comnimust imaio con essinve ndandunt
apernam reptatusant.
Minvendit laut quassit ut vollit rendior escient iberchiciant del
magnatium landaepudis que raerum am harchilit que nimend-
unt, nim recate et evellendita iusamus estiatem as a ducimol-
lam, quame porehenda seque natur, officim aut acculparum
earuntisquia sitio temporum et que consent repudae quia qua-
tur? Nest quo te officiae. Et et deles dis pratemporro consed
quam quis adipsa sit, cus.
To to ommosan ientiustrum rem vernam quodit voloria nes-
sum is re nimusanda volorrore il magnihil ilia que porumqu
idusamus eaquias samenis voluptae sae es estibus andesequisti
natiur? Lore posanimpore sincid et doloriatio. Oriam, ut pora
volum dolupta tisqui voluptae. Nam, as aci cus.
Hendignimi, quistemposam faccusc iendam nem fuga. Itatur?
Untiae vel expe excest et elent doloremporat voloreptatem iunt
ad quat inctias doluptat et faciet quam, optae voluptation er-
ferum at etur sum quam rem alignissi alis sum quideni mintur
mo velenti optatem. Dusanis dolorem porerci psamus et pos
aut ut que volore natus adis ant.
Nullaboris et et dolenim porero optati ullene dolupta sequae.
Gent ut exero conse nulparum vent renimusam aperferro
volor mo denissim sus.
Optati omnihil eatqui doluptati volorum qui veritis nulpa nati
totatibus, excepudit idel is re nienihit, cullaborem sus audit ut
fuga. Natque excea quatend aepero maximaximet quatur mili-
bus as andae. Pis id quaspe is aut ipita venes estem eum vellam
es as nulla que plam, aciam vent aut modipie nihillande nimus
autIgnisimus. Nescia quatia quia voloremque odis nossi rem
repelit eum vid maioris veles dolupti onsecab orerchi llaboria
ius.
Catem. Xerio dolor re volutempores eium ipsunda eperum,
tempore hendio quis que labo. Arunt magnis eos dolorem
debis etum eos renisi doluptis et quiatus iduciun tiatqui con
consedi scietur modis aut volupti conseque omnihic te et, odi-
tius, omnis incid quas consenis apis min prerovidiae nestrup-
tat eatur sequi nihicil iquunti ssundam lacea num iument aut
atincil iquidessi con cuptae accum sit ea dicaerum inus et fugit
exped quo ea quiassiminis nobis dollam excersp erior

00 00
VOGUEjapan

Eliquidus, omnis exceres et debitae optaerem. Eliquidus, omnis exceres et debitae optaerem. Eliquidus, omnis exceres et debitae optaerem.
Ut fugias quia dera nihit molore, ium velende Ut fugias quia dera nihit molore, ium velende Ut fugias quia dera nihit molore, ium velende
et quistia nisque prere, excepe ommoditas et quistia nisque prere, excepe ommoditas et quistia nisque prere, excepe ommoditas
quidi comnimust imaio con essinve ndandunt quidi comnimust imaio con essinve ndandunt quidi comnimust imaio con essinve ndandunt
Eliquidus, omnis exceres et debitae optaerem.
apernam reptatusant. apernam reptatusant. apernam reptatusant.
Ut fugias quia dera nihit molore, ium velende
Minvendit laut quassit ut vollit rendior esci- Minvendit laut quassit ut vollit rendior esci- Minvendit laut quassit ut vollit rendior esci-
et quistia nisque prere, excepe ommoditas
ent iberchiciant del magnatium landaepudis ent iberchiciant del magnatium landaepudis ent iberchiciant del magnatium landaepudis
quidi comnimust imaio con essinve ndandunt
que raerum am harchilit que nimendunt, nim que raerum am harchilit que nimendunt, nim que raerum am harchilit que nimendunt, nim
apernam reptatusant.
recate et evellendita iusamus estiatem as a recate et evellendita iusamus estiatem as a recate et evellendita iusamus estiatem as a
Minvendit laut quassit ut vollit rendior esci-
ducimollam, quame porehenda seque natur, ducimollam, quame porehenda seque natur, ducimollam, quame porehenda seque natur,
ent iberchiciant del magnatium landaepudis
officim aut acculparum earuntisquia sitio tem- officim aut acculparum earuntisquia sitio tem- officim aut acculparum earuntisquia sitio tem-
que raerum am harchilit que nimendunt, nim
porum et que consent repudae quia quatur? porum et que consent repudae quia quatur? porum et que consent repudae quia quatur?
recate et evellendita iusamus estiatem as a
Nest quo te officiae. Et et deles dis pratempor- Nest quo te officiae. Et et deles dis pratempor- Nest quo te officiae. Et et deles dis pratempor-
ducimollam, quame porehenda seque natur,
ro consed quam quis adipsa sit, cus. ro consed quam quis adipsa sit, cus. ro consed quam quis adipsa sit, cus.
officim aut acculparum earuntisquia sitio tem-
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lorrore il magnihil ilia que porumqu idusam- lorrore il magnihil ilia que porumqu idusam- lorrore il magnihil ilia que porumqu idusam-
us eaquias samenis voluptae sae es estibus us eaquias samenis voluptae sae es estibus us eaquias samenis voluptae sae es estibus
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andesequisti natiur? Lore posanimpore sincid andesequisti natiur? Lore posanimpore sincid andesequisti natiur? Lore posanimpore sincid
Ut fugias quia dera nihit molore, ium velende
et doloriatio. Oriam, ut pora volum dolupta et doloriatio. Oriam, ut pora volum dolupta et doloriatio. Oriam, ut pora volum dolupta
et quistia nisque prere, excepe ommoditas
tisqui voluptae. Nam, as aci cus. tisqui voluptae. Nam, as aci cus. tisqui voluptae. Nam, as aci cus.
quidi comnimust imaio con essinve ndandunt
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nem fuga. Itatur? nem fuga. Itatur? nem fuga. Itatur?
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et faciet quam, optae voluptation erferum at et faciet quam, optae voluptation erferum at et faciet quam, optae voluptation erferum at
Ut fugias quia dera nihit molore, ium velende
etur sum quam rem alignissi alis sum quideni etur sum quam rem alignissi alis sum quideni etur sum quam rem alignissi alis sum quideni
et quistia nisque prere, excepe ommoditas
mintur mo velenti optatem. Dusanis dolorem mintur mo velenti optatem. Dusanis dolorem mintur mo velenti optatem. Dusanis dolorem
quidi comnimust imaio con essinve ndandunt
porerci psamus et pos aut ut que volore natus porerci psamus et pos aut ut que volore natus porerci psamus et pos aut ut que volore natus
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adis ant. adis ant. adis ant.
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Nullaboris et et dolenim porero optati ullene Nullaboris et et dolenim porero optati ullene Nullaboris et et dolenim porero optati ullene
ent iberchiciant del magnatium landaepudis
dolupta sequae. Gent ut exero conse nul- dolupta sequae. Gent ut exero conse nul- dolupta sequae. Gent ut exero conse nul-
que raerum am harchilit que nimendunt, nim
parum vent renimusam aperferro volor mo parum vent renimusam aperferro volor mo parum vent renimusam aperferro volor mo
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denissim sus. denissim sus. denissim sus.
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Optati omnihil eatqui doluptati volorum qui Optati omnihil eatqui doluptati volorum qui Optati omnihil eatqui doluptati volorum qui
officim aut acculparum earuntisquia sitio tem-
veritis nulpa nati totatibus, excepudit idel is re veritis nulpa nati totatibus, excepudit idel is re veritis nulpa nati totatibus, excepudit idel is re
porum et que consent repudae quia quatur?
nienihit, cullaborem sus audit ut fuga. Natque nienihit, cullaborem sus audit ut fuga. Natque nienihit, cullaborem sus audit ut fuga. Natque
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excea quatend aepero maximaximet quatur excea quatend aepero maximaximet quatur excea quatend aepero maximaximet quatur
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venes estem eum vellam es as nulla que plam, venes estem eum vellam es as nulla que plam, venes estem eum vellam es as nulla que plam,
aciam vent aut modipie nihillande nimus aut aciam vent aut modipie nihillande nimus aut aciam vent aut modipie nihillande nimus aut

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VOGUEjapan

00
VOGUEjapan

Eliquidus, omnis exceres et debitae optaerem.
Ut fugias quia dera nihit molore, ium velende
et quistia nisque prere, excepe ommoditas
quidi comnimust imaio con essinve ndandunt
apernam reptatusant.
Minvendit laut quassit ut vollit rendior esci-
ent iberchiciant del magnatium landaepudis
que raerum am harchilit que nimendunt, nim
recate et evellendita iusamus estiatem as a
ducimollam, quame porehenda seque natur,
officim aut acculparum earuntisquia sitio tem-
porum et que consent repudae quia quatur?
Nest quo te officiae. Et et deles dis pratempor-
ro consed quam quis adipsa sit, cus.
To to ommosan ientiustrum rem vernam Eliquidus, omnis exceres et debitae optaerem.
quodit voloria nessum is re nimusanda vo- Ut fugias quia dera nihit molore, ium velende
lorrore il magnihil ilia que porumqu idusam- et quistia nisque prere, excepe ommoditas
us eaquias samenis voluptae sae es estibus quidi comnimust imaio con essinve ndandunt
andesequisti natiur? Lore posanimpore sincid apernam reptatusant.
et doloriatio. Oriam, ut pora volum dolupta Minvendit laut quassit ut vollit rendior esci-
tisqui voluptae. Nam, as aci cus. ent iberchiciant del magnatium landaepudis
Hendignimi, quistemposam faccusc iendam que raerum am harchilit que nimendunt, nim
nem fuga. Itatur? recate et evellendita iusamus estiatem as a
Untiae vel expe excest et elent doloremporat ducimollam, quame porehenda seque natur,
voloreptatem iunt ad quat inctias doluptat officim aut acculparum earuntisquia sitio tem-
et faciet quam, optae voluptation erferum at porum et que consent repudae quia quatur?
etur sum quam rem alignissi alis sum quideni Nest quo te officiae. Et et deles dis pratempor-
mintur mo velenti optatem. Dusanis dolorem
porerci psamus et pos aut ut que volore natus
adis ant.
Nullaboris et et dolenim porero optati ullene
dolupta sequae. Gent ut exero conse nul-
parum vent renimusam aperferro volor mo
denissim sus.
Optati omnihil eatqui doluptati volorum qui
veritis nulpa nati totatibus, excepudit idel is re
nienihit, cullaborem sus audit ut fuga. Natque
excea quatend aepero maximaximet quatur
milibus as andae. Pis id quaspe is aut ipita
venes estem eum vellam es as nulla que plam,
aciam vent aut modipie nihillande nimus aut

00
“Social media presents and represents
an impossible ideal look, the average
person cannot achieve this. If only
Instagram made real life filters... you
can’t edit real life”
Anon, (2017)
SAMANTHA
RAVNDAHL

Model and Makeup: Samantha Ravndahl
Photography: Ruby James

Samantha Ravndahl (@ssssamanthaa),
boasts a staggering 2.4m followers on
Instagram alone. She is a Canadian
beauty blogger and vlogger, who rose to
fame with her candid YouTube channel
(formerly known as Batalash Beauty)
back in 2014 before the ‘beauty boom’
exploded worldwide. Exploring the
impacts that social media platforms
have had on her, Samantha talks openly
about the career path that many find oh, Anyone would of thought that being a
so glamorous; yet behind the visage is beauty influencer would be the dream
danger of self-perception issues. job; events, freebies, sponsorships and
constant admiration. But what happens
Known for being brutally honest, loud when you reach a level of influence that
and brash with both personality and starts to in turn influence your own
her style of reviews and tutorials alike, behaviour and believes? With a large
Samantha gives her account of her social media following, fans and high
experience as a modern day ‘influencer’ expectations, it can be hard to break
and the subsequent pressures which go away after growing to an exponentially
hand-in-hand with such title. high status of admiration.

00
SAMANTHAravndahl

“Everyone expects me to look like I do on
Instagram all the time. I don’t wear glam
makeup all the time”, Samantha states.
She continues, “you know, everyone
expects you to look ‘photo-ready’ all the
fucking time”, hinting at competitive
and exceptive behaviours from social
media communities and social groups.
It appears it is taken that what is seen
on social media is ‘real’, and not edited,
airbrushed and well photoshopped
imagery forming part of the ‘act’,
therefore it is expected you look the
same in day to day life, all the time. “It’s
become a competition about who can
look the most fucking glamorous at 8am
in the gym. And then document it on
social media”, Samantha claims hinting
at the narcissist traits of those involved
in the industry. “All this has done to me
is cheapen all the experiences I have.
Like, I get taken away to amazing places
I could only dream of, and I’m not even
taking the scenery in or where I am. It’s
become about where the best lighting is,
or what acts as the best backdrop for a
photo to post online”.

It’s painful to hear that social media
and the opinions of others can damage
someones life experiences, as well
as their values and self confidence.
Samantha states that she was taken away
by an undisclosed brand for a launch
event, and was bought clothes to wear,
even though she took her own, and that
she was the only influencer in the group
to have this experience; “they must of
thought I was too casual or something, it
sucks, it’s like let me be me. The role of
an influencer these days is that you are

00 00
SAMANTHAravndahl

paid to be beautiful and look a certain
way, and apparently I didn’t look that
‘certain’ way”.

But, it seems that influencer and blogger
culture hasn’t always been this way;
“this culture, was initially a positive
experience, where ‘blogging’ originally
had an emphasis on makeup artistry
skillset, and actually being fucking good
at the craft, opposed to this present “EVERYONE EXPECTS
day ideology of being classed as an
‘influencer’ and how many likes or views
YOU TO LOOK
you get”. This change echos the increase ‘PHOTO-READY’ ALL
of beauty bloggers and YouTubers THE FUCKING TIME”
around the world, apparently in the
West. It seems that everyone wants a influencers were offered the
piece of the influencer game, which opportunity to create their own
in turn has become damaging to those lipstick shade to be sold in their native
working in it, as well as those who view it countries; a very clever marketing
for fun or guidance. trick from the global brand, whilst also
promoting their social media accounts
Samantha at one point in her career, in a new and tactical manner.
was massively against sponsorships
and undisclosed advertisements, but It appears that the influencer industry
now with her increased following has is growing, and Samantha knows she
been offered many opportunities got lucky with her success - “it was all
and now makes it clear in all of her about the timing, and I think I offered
posts and videos, which are and are something different at the time, as well
not sponsored. “I’m not gonna lie, if as being honest about shit. I won’t say
someone offers you $5000 and you get I like something if I don’t and I won’t
taken to Bora Bora to promote a brand, work with brands I don’t agree with” -
or a brand offers you money to do a and is now successful enough to pick
video, or go to an event and talk about and choose who she works with. But at
a specific product, you aren’t gonna the same time, self-perceptions and
turn that down. Who would? We all have selfhood are being dented, manipulated
to live and have bills to pay”, Samantha and criticised all the time, in person and
states openly and honestly. March 2017 on social media. Is there ever a way back
also saw the launch of Samantha’s own down to ‘normality’ when you reach the
MAC Lipstick in collaboration with top of your game, or is this something
the brand. 10 of the worlds largest that you have to learn to live with?

00
the 101

HOW
TO BE
SOCIAL
MEDIA
FAMOUS
the key to successful
lights fashion marketing;

camera tits, arse, skin,
action provocative poses
and celebrities.
climbing the beauty
blogger ladder; selfie
take selfies, try to be selfie
original and wait for
likes and reassurance. selfie
what to pack
like, for your holiday;

so many camera, vlog camera,
likes iphone, mini ring light,
highligter and sass.
what to do;

hire a photographer,
find a good location, strike
take 5 outfits worth
of photos in a day and a pose
remember, act like no
one is watching.
what to wear;

get buy loads of designer
shit you can’t afford,
some style and send it back until
you get sent the real
deal from their PR.
WESTERNbeautyinfluencers

@jamiegenevieve
741k followers

Western

BEAUTY @tanyaburr

INFLUENCERS
3.2m followers

the ones to watch on Instagram
With the world going beauty mad,
The Industry magazine has selected
the most influential beauty bloggers to
follow in 2017!.. you know you want to!
@desiperkins
3.3m followers

@makeupbyalinna
1.5m followers

00 00
WESTERNbeautyinfluencers

@sheidafashionista
542k followers

@nikkitutorials
7.6m followers

@jaclynhill
4.1m followers

@thepatriciabright
566k followers

@mannymua
3.6m followers

@iluvsarahii
3.5m followers

@ssssamanthaa
2.4m followers
@christendominique
1.1m followers

00 00
EASTASIANbeautyinfluencers

@pearypie
1.5m followers

East Asian

BEAUTY
@ellenvflora
423k followers
INFLUENCERS
the ones to watch on Instagram
Beauty influencers in Eastern Asia are
still low-key, not being recognised
or trusted as much as ‘celebrities’ to
endorse major brands and products,
however; The Industry magazine has
selected a few we predict will be big
when the tide turns!

@flamcis
284k followers
@imjennim
1.5m followers

00 00
“The ‘Universal Elite’ in present day
society holds up to its members
the role of the consumer, and the
members of our society are likewise
judged by their ability and willingness
to play that role”
Bauman, (2004)
TOP FASHION BLOGGERS
TOP FASHION BLOGGERS
“The increase in blogger culture,
particularly in relation to Instagram
and YouTube, has allowed for many
to reach ‘celebrity’ status themselves;
and in return the media has adapted
to [this] reflecting the world of
celebrity dominance”
Gibson, (2012)
MANNY
X
JEFFREE

Models: Manny Gutierrez and Jefree Star
Makeup: Manny Gutierrez and Jefree Star
Photography: Jefree Star Cosmetics

Influencers and bloggers are becoming
extremely successful in the West, and
thanks to social media platforms this
has expanded beyond the stereotypical
target market of females.With only
23% (Vuelio, 2016) of beauty bloggers
being male, the gender divide is slowly
changing, whilst impacting the distortion
of the male gaze and perceptions at the
same time.

Manny Gutierrez and Jeffree Star, are
the most influential male influencers of
the 21st century. With a ‘celebrity’ status,
7m YouTube followers, and 8m Instagram
followers between them, the male stars
have recently teamed up with a cosmetic
collaboration of liquid lipsticks and
highlighters, taking over the beauty
world unlike ever seen before.

00
MANNYxjeffree

00 00
MANNYxjeffree

The beauty world can be tough to crack, Manny took a similar route to Moments like these are some of the
but Manny and Jeffree are no strangers encouraging differentiation in the reasons these particular influencers
to the industry, and along their way to beauty industry, using Instagram as a pour their hearts and souls into creating
cosmetic stardom have also changed the platform to promote his artistry skills content every single day. Inspiring men
face of it; for the good. and YouTube to showcase tutorials and as well as women to embrace what
collaborative videos with Jeffree and they love and who they are has become
Each has their own story, but together “I BELIEVE THAT influencer Patrick Starrr alike. In 2015 their mantra, hence joining forces.
the powerhouse dominate social it was announced that an eyeshadow Manny states that, “men want to feel
media, sponsorships and product BOYS DESERVE JUST palette created with Makeup Geek the same way that women feel [and
sales, leading to the 2017 collaboration AS MUCH COSMETIC Cosmetics would be launched and sold be] empowered in that way”. Clearly
of a limited edition set of on-trend RECOGNITION AS GIRLS internationally. This single product their passion, drive, personality and
products compiling of two liquid caused such an online sensation and candid honesty has resulted in the
lipsticks and a highlighter; which sold IN THE INDUSTRY” hype, that it crashed the site’s servers world watching and catching on - when
out internationally in less than a day. The within 1 hour of being released and both influencers were starting out,
MANNY MUA
notion of two males releasing a makeup propelled his success to the next level. male makeup artists were few and far
range has been recieved warmly, with In 2016, Manny was the first ever male between on YouTube and Instagram and
open arms, despite the industry still ambassador for Maybelline Cosmetics, were often only seen behind the scenes
being predominatley led by females. appearing in a range of print and digitally of catwalk shows.
led campaign materials and videos.
Starting off as a MySpace star in the Now, he is sponsored by the likes of But despite the positive demeanours,
early 2000s, Jeffree was noticed for his NYX Cosmetics, Urban Decay and Kylie when your career involves baring
pink hair and outlandish makeup looks. Cosmetics to promote their brands, your soul to millions of people, trolls
Increasing followers, and a change in products and events. inevitably come out of the woodwork. “I
the direction of social media saw him get hate every single day, saying I’m gay
push his way into the beauty scene as a Even though the route to success [and] going to hell, or that I don’t know
career path, working as a freelance make sounds easy for both male stars, Manny what I’m doing or that I need help. Now
up artist with celebrity clients, fashion claims that the path wasn’t easy due to that I have this platform, it makes me
editorials, music videos and weddings. being a ‘guy’; “in the beginning, it was want to fight even harder” claims Manny,
His success grew, leading on to YouTube really confusing; my parents and friends Jeffree falls under a similar umbrella,
tutorials which became an international didn’t know what was going on,” he says, being known for being different and
sensation. Now, Jeffree is known for his “they thought I was trying to become a proud of it; “no hate to anyone else,
makeup master classes taught around woman, and they didn’t understand.” but all these big YouTubers do the same
the world, and his own cosmetic line, However, several years later the tides shit: glowy, bronzy, boring makeup, and
branded, ‘Jeffree Star Cosmetics’, have turned as he explains a recent I’m like, “Can we have something else,
claiming that the range is for “anyone encounter at a meet and greet event in please?” So I’m stepping in.”
who is fearless enough to be their own the US; “a guy walked in, he was 12 or 14
person”. Being a fan of makeup since he with a full face of makeup and his dad It appears that even though personally
was 13, Jeffree hopes to “inspire each was there, this macho man with blue they may of had negative experiences,
other to stay true to who we are” despite jeans and a cowboy hat. He was so proud the positive impact of helping others
critism and stereotyping, encouraging of his son. It felt like the world was with their self-perception encourages
diversity and positive self-hood. changing in that moment.” an ever-diversifying, positive industry.

00 00
“Attractiveness of Japanese women
was rated the highest for ‘light’ skin”
Tagal et al for Shiseido, (2016)
JAPANESE
BEAUTY

Models: Lauren de Graaf, Zhenya Migovych,
Katherine Moore, Ally Ertel, Luping Wang and
Angelica Erthal.
Makeup: Emi Kaneko
Photography: Nicholas Kantor

Warchocki states that in regard to body
image and beauty trends, “fashion
magazines are considered a main
source of information regarding the
attractive ideal” posing as a sourcebook
of unattainable, nor maintainable
‘looks’. This is known to be due to an
influx of advertisements and product Whilst proving to be a good sales
endorsements that “present such looks technique of enticing a consumer into
and products in a way that evokes a dream world of aesthetics, this also
consumers to buy them” (Gonzalez), in an enforces the ideology that with such
aim to achieve the proposed ‘ideal’. products, one may also look this way
and achieve such image in return,
This movement is however moving away therefore affecting ones self-perception,
from traditional fashion advertisements self-hood and individuality. But why in
as seen in the past 2-3 years, influenced Japan is there an emphasis on facial
by the rise of beauty trends and brands, looks opposed to physiques? Enticing
therefore propelling advertising into a a consumer into a dream world of
realm. This is evident especially in Japan aesthetics, this ideology of full-beauty
where not only fashion magazines are on magazines also enforces the ideology
offer, full glossy beauty magazines can that with such products, one may also
also be seen on the shelves, unlike in the look this way and achieve such image
West, launching a constant emphasis on in return, therefore affecting ones self-
looking ‘young’ and ‘light’ skin. esteem and body image.

00
JAPANESEbeauty

It is apparent that Western and Japanese in-group and out-group comparisons
socio-cultural ideals and aspirations are are prevalent in day-to-day lives,
different. The West have an emphasis contrasting with how Western cultures
on a ‘pursuit to perfection’, replicating implies this through a more digital,
celebrity, icons, or model looks, whilst celebrity and icon led trend, rather
Japan maintains a focus on Western than being influenced by historical and
culture and socio-cultural, historical socio-cultural roots. By intergroup
traditions. Unlike Western women comparison, whether in the West, or in
whom often cherish their beauty of Japan one can tell compare their looks
diversity and race, Ashikari claims that and strive to be apart of a group through
in contrast, Japanese women strive to aesthetic changes. In the West this is
be ‘white’ in order to negate from a done through tanning and glamour,
“us and them” dichotomy, whilst also whilst in Japan, skin-lightening and
being influenced by the media denoting youthful, beautiful skin takes precedent,
‘ideals’ through international advertising mimicking what they expect the ‘ideal
and marketing campaigns. Western’ to also be like.

The dichotomy regards class and social Wagatsuma argues that the notion
status in Japan rooting back to the of “white/beautiful versus black/
1800s. Japanese beauty blogger Nicole ugly” originates from a “preference of
Takahashi explains; “those whom worked whiteness being rooted in Japanese
manual labour jobs outside gained a tan, people’s own history” combined with
and were therefore deemed by society a huge Westernised consumer culture.
to be ‘poor’, whilst those who worked This culture is often seen in department
inside, were ‘lucky’ enough to keep stores; Western brands such as L’Oreal
their light skin, in turn exuding a more will still use Western models for the
affluent status”. For Western women campaigns, whilst Japanese brands such
this dichotomy is often hard to relate as Shiseido will take the same approach,
to, with the polar opposite being key to hammering home a constant ideal of an
their lifestyles and ‘ideals’; being tanned ‘ideal’ light skinned woman being the
means one has been on holiday, and has face of modern day beauty. In Japanese
enough money or the privilege to do so, culture, Western models will feature
whilst also stemming back to fashion in highbrow magazines such as Vogue
runway shows such as Victoria Secret, Japan, mimicking this socio-cultural
whereby all the models are bronzed, ideal. Muramatsu, the Beauty Director
deeming a ‘sexy’ look. at Vogue Japan states that if an ideal
Western model can’t be booked for a
In theoretical terms for context, this photoshoot, “Western-looking Japanese
correlates with Tajfel and Turner’s models will be used” giving the Japanese
(1986) social identity model, whereby a ‘symbol’ of aspiration and affluence to
in-group and out-group comparisons strive towards and buy into.

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JAPANESEbeauty

Cash et al. conducted a study for supplements, face masks and drinks.
“THOSE WHOM Japanese beauty and skincare brand Products of this bizarre nature to
WORKED Shiseido in 2016, claiming that “applying Western women, claim to give ‘babyish’
OUTSIDE GAINED facial cosmetics affects women’s self- skin, hinting at youthfulness. The
image positively” even if in Japan this advertisements and product packaging
A TAN, AND WERE denotes youthful, natural skin. Takahashi however show this in a perverted
THEREFORE also claims that the typical Japanese manner, opposed to using ‘youthful
DEEMED TO woman applies makeup often to look models’. Images often used showcase
like there is not makeup on, rather Western babies to endorse such
BE ‘POOR’; using cosmetics to ‘polish’ perfect, product traits and contents. This itself
WHILST THOSE light skin, opposed to focusing on heavy shows an extreme cultural obsession
WHO WORKED and glamourous makeup trends which with youthfulness. It is worth noting
are often seen in the West, and this is however in context, that Japanese child
INSIDE, KEPT reinforced through beauty editorials as pornography was only made illegal in
THEIR LIGHT often seen in the Japanese editions of 2014, hammering home how popular
SKIN, EXUDING Vogue and Harpers Bazaar. The Shiseido ‘youth’ and ‘baby culture’ is in Japan
study also found that, “attractiveness of across an array of markets.
AN AFFLUENT Japanese women was rated the highest
STATUS..” for light makeup faces, opposed to heavy In addition, many cosmetics brands such
makeup faces”. as Maybelline in Japan, are promoted
using fair skinned Japanese models with
This is reflected through the range of blonde hair and blue eyes, echoing and
beauty products available in Japan, promoting the stereotypical Western
most of which embody; skin-lightening, ideal woman, which are often shown in
and anti-aging. Kikuchi et al. states editorials and advertising campaigns.
that, “aging has a negative effect on
the skin that is important for aesthetic It is evident that even though the
evaluation of the face ... revealing that Japanese ‘ideal’ stems back to a
aging increases colour heterogenity”, historical, socio-cultural background,
meaning a wide range of beauty there is an influx of Westernised
products are available to counteract this consumer culture which influences
natural change, whilst also conforming the self-perceptions of many, in order
with the ‘ideal’ look of white, Western to achieve a desired look which is not
skin as popularised through advertising, natural for ones race nor ethnicity, even
magazines and consumer culture. though deemed the ‘ideal’. It can be
The range of beauty-led products in thought however, that on the flip side
Japan reinforces this through the use of how in Western society would one feel
copywriting and model selection. Anti- and react to being constantly bombared
aging products in Japan often include with images of Japanese women? How
collagen and placenta extracts, coming would this affect the perceptions of
in the form of creams, cosmetics, women? Maybe we will never know..

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TANNING ADS SKIN LIGHTENING ADS
NICOLE
TAKAHASHI

Photography: Nicole Takahashi

Japanese beauty blogger Nicole
Takahashi writes two of her own beauty With the industry taking a different
blogs, ‘The Beauty Maniac in Tokyo’ and route in Japan to the West, blogging is
‘Beau Tea Time’, runs the Instagram star a different ball game, and content seen
(@nicintokyo) and writes for Japanese often reflects this culture and audience.
blogs and magazines, including GLAM
and Look Fantastic Japan, however If you have ever read any Japanese
states that the differences between the beauty blogs or glossy beauty-led
beauty industries in the East and West magazines, it is evident that trends and
are still considerably different. ideals are different, with older women
taking precedent. Japanese women are
Takahashi reveals all on the secrets of big on skincare, youthfulness and skin-
Japanese beauty compared to what we lightening, opposed to the glamourous
know in Western culture, exploring an celebrity inspired looks of the West
unknown world to many, where bloggers which teenagers and adults don daily.
don’t recieve as much recognition as
magazine writers and editors, “unless In this candid interview Takahashi talks
you are ‘kawaii’” (Japanese for ‘cute’). openly about the differences in the
It is known that Japan doesn’t hold beauty industries, and gives examples
‘blogger beauty events’ and if you are of the differences of beauty standards
lucky enough to get invited to a brand and secret routines which dominate the
press event you may only see women Japanese beauty culture today, giving a
between the ages of 30 to 50 years taste of what she often blogs about and
old, instantly showing a vastly different relays to her International and Japanese
demographic and target audience to us. readership alike.

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NICOLEtakahashi

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NICOLEtakahashi

What does a typical skincare routine in but recently some brands started Makeup remover: Oil and milk cleansers Contouring is big on social media in the
Japan consist of? recommending using a cotton pad for an are popular. Just like cotton pads, UK and U.S. at the moment. What are
even application, so the usage of cotton muslin cloths used to wipe the cleanser the big makeup trends in Japan right
Here are the differences I see between pads is increasing. I must also add that off aren’t common in Japan. Most of the now?
Western and Japanese skincare: the quality of cotton pads is much Japanese oils, milks, creams and balm
better in Japan—they are very soft, don’t cleansers can be washed off completely When it comes to skincare, I believe
1. Cotton pads: Japanese people are fluff easily and there are different types with warm water. Japan is a step ahead compared to
said to have thinner skin that is prone according to your liking. Western countries, but makeup wise,
to discolouration compared to Western Cleanser/face wash: Japanese women not so much. We value the beautiful and
people. Rubbing your skin causes 3. Emulsion: I personally am not don’t care for cleansers much. healthy state of the skin, rather than
unwanted pigmentation, which is why familiar with emulsion because I mainly Drugstore ones sell well. piling up a lot of makeup on. Sheer and
Japanese people are very careful not use Western skincare products, but natural foundation is more common
to rub their skin too much. When it emulsion (乳液 Nyuueki) is very popular Lotion and emulsion: As mentioned than heavy coverage foundation.
comes to cleansing, they prefer to use in Japan. Normally it’s looser and lighter earlier, lotion and emulsion are must- Recently, some magazines started talking
a cleanser that washes away waterproof than moisturiser, and contains more haves when it comes to Japanese about contouring, and some brands
eye makeup instantly rather than using moisture than creams. skincare. Albion, SK-II and Ipsa are all like Cezanne brought out contouring
an eye makeup remover with a cotton popular. products, but not many.
pad. Micellar water isn’t as popular in
Japan as it is in the UK. Some people “IN JAPAN YOU WEAR Serum: Women in Japan look to serums The trends I have seen recently are
also pat-dry their skin with a towel, SUNBLOCK EVERYDAY, that have anti-ageing, whitening and coloured eyebrows and coloured
rather than wiping their skin with it to WE DO NOT HAVE FAKE brightening benefits. eyeliners. Though Japanese people are
avoid friction. usually very conservative, recent trends
TAN. MAINTAINING Sun protection: In Japan, it’s common suggest more playful looks.
2. Lotion: One of my American friends PALE SKIN IS VERY knowledge that you must wear a
once told me, “When you say lotion in IMPORTANT FOR sunblock every single day all-year round. What Japanese beauty products and
the States, it means a thick moisturiser, Tanning is not common at all (we do ingredients do you think would do well
which is completely different from what JAPANESE PEOPLE” not have fake tan in Japan). Maintaining in the UK?
you call lotion in Japan.” pale skin is very important for Japanese
What about the morning route? Is this women, as you may know. Japanese consumers are very curious
In Japan, lotion is a water-like liquid different, or the similar? about beauty products. They want to
that balances your pH after washing How does it differ to say a Korean know what they are paying for, why
your face. When you use a cleanser or The must-have items in a Japanese routine? Or the British routine of the product is effective, and how it
soap, your skin becomes alkaline. As woman’s beauty cabinet are makeup cleanse and moisturise? works. This means the brands usually
your natural pH balance is mildly acidic, remover, cleanser, lotion, serum and list the active ingredients, so Japanese
you must use lotion to bring it back to emulsion or moisturiser. In addition to I’m not sure about Korean beauty women tend to have a good knowledge
that healthy state. Also, Japanese lotion that, eye cream, oil and sheet masks are regimens, because I personally am not of ingredients. They value how it feels
usually contains quite a few different always commonly used.Unless we are a big fan (Korean pharmaceutical affairs and how the skin reacts, rather than
ingredients that are good for your skin talking specifically about a woman who law is not as strict as what it is in Japan, thinking in a very analytical way as
such as hyaluronic acid, ceramides is massively into beauty, women usually which means their products are more Japanese women do. Hyaluronic acid
and collagen. Lotion is usually applied don’t switch up their skincare routines effective and can be very harsh. I always has been well-known in Japan for more
with hands rather than a cotton pad, that much. break out when I use a Korean products). than 15 years (possibly 20 years), but it’s

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NICOLEtakahashi

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NICOLEtakahashi

just became popular in the UK in the
past couple of years–I am not sure if it “JAPANESE WOMEN
was because there were not so many
products containing the ingredient or VALUE THE BEAUTIFUL
none of the brands marketed it. AND HEALTHY STATE
Ceramides should be more popular OF THE SKIN, RATHER
in the UK [note: Ceramides are lipid
molecules naturally occurring in the THAN PILING UP A
skin that help retain moisture and keep LOT OF MAKEUP ON.
the skin plump]. It is an incredibly well- IT’S KNNOWN THAT
known ingredient in Japan, and in some
sense it’s better than hyaluronic acid. SHEER AND NATURAL
FOUNDATION IS
We Brits look to women like Kate Moss MORE COMMON THAN
and Alexa Chung as modern beauty
icons, and then back to women like HEAVY COVERAGE
Brigitte Bardot and Twiggy. Who are the FOUNDATION ”
Japanese womens’ beauty icons?
not washing the hair every day is just
I much prefer Kate Moss to any disgusting! Forget about your hair for a
Japanese beauty icons, to be honest minute, we think of the scalp as being
(because Japanese women love a “cute” the same skin as the face, so we cannot
appearance rather than beautiful, or go to work or meet friends without
even sexy look). washing our hair. Regularly washed
hair doesn’t equate to damaged hair in
Are there any beauty lessons, tricks or Japan. Also, we use hairdryers all the
rituals British women could learn from time. I can’t leave my scalp damp, you
Japanese women? never know what bacteria is growing in
the damp environment! It causes odour
1. Do not rub your skin. It will cause and irritation.
pigmentation especially around the eyes!
My heart stops when I watch a YouTube 3. Wear SPF all-year round, even when
video and find a beauty blogger rubbing it’s cloudy. UVA passes through clouds
their eyes with a cotton pad or muslin and windows; you need SPF all the time
cloth SO HARD! if you want to maintain the beautiful and
healthy state of your skin!
2. Wash your hair every day. It might not
apply to the girls in the U.K. because of For more Japanese beauty insights head
the water (we have soft water, which to Nicole in Tokyo’s blogs: The Beauty
doesn’t dry out the skin and hair), Maniac in Tokyo (English) and Beau Tea
but for Japanese people, the idea of Time (Japanese).

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