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How to assemble very cheap 3D printer by Nikus (/member/Nikus/)

Download (/id/How-to-Assemble-Very-Cheap-3D-Printer/?download=pdf) h (/id/How-to-Assemble-Very-Cheap-3D-Printer/) 18 Steps .


Collection I Made it! Favorite Share
About This Instructable

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Nikus (/member/Nikus/)
spongepie.com
(http://https://spongepie.com/)
(/file/FW6FNFBIJ8X27F1/)
Follow 262
(/member/Nikus/)

Bio: Hi. My name is Nikodem. I live in


Poland, I'm 16 years old. I like to program
and invent new things. In the future ... More
(/member/Nikus/)

More by Nikus:

(/id/How-to-

Assemble-Very-Cheap-3D-Printer/)

(/id/Linkit-One-

3D printing is great tool, you can print almost everything that you need. For
example my lamp was broken since few weeks but now I design part that I
needed to fix it and it works!
Cheap printer maybe mean for somebody bad printer. But I think that for this
Wireless-Switch/)
price ($235)it works great. It can print offline, has heated bed (without glass
table but I will show you how to make it). Assembling it is very easy. I made it
without instruction (I didn't check SD card, on it you can find some video
tutorials). It took me 7 hours to build, calibrate and print first thing (small (/id/Linkit-One-Flood-Alarm/)
1cmx1cmx1cm cube).
Tags: cheap (/tag/type-id/keyword-cheap/)

3d (/tag/type-id/keyword-3d/)

printer (/tag/type-id/keyword-printer/)

JGAURORA (/tag/type-id/keyword-JGAURORA/)

605S (/tag/type-id/keyword-605S/)

how (/tag/type-id/keyword-how/)

to (/tag/type-id/keyword-to/)

assemble (/tag/type-id/keyword-assemble/)
Step 1: What's in kit? Related

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printer using recycled parts
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3D Printed DSLR Slider!
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Project (/id/My-Very-First-3D-
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by Cheapdiyproject
(/member/Cheapdiyproject/)
(/file/F25067NIJ0A3FQH/)

(/file/FOR1CDMIJ0A3G1B/) (/file/FF10F46IJ0A3GDN/)
Show All Items

You can find everything you need to build this printer in this kit including tools.
This is link to gearbest where you can buy this printer.
http://www.gearbest.com/3d-printers/pp_123288.html
(http://www.gearbest.com/3d-printers/pp_123288.html)
The kit is packed into solid cardboard box and separated for 3 layers. Everything
in my pack wasn't damaged.
There is to many parts to write it all so if you like to see all the parts you can find
it in this link. I only like to add something that I didn't find on product page this kit
includes spool holder. Here is most important info about this printer:
Nozzle size: 0.4mm
Nuild area: 190 x 190 x 180mm
Print speed: 20 to 100mm/s
Software: Cura
Compatible materials: PLA and ABS
Posibilty of printing offline: yes
Step 2: Clear the frame

(/file/FV6W7RUIJ0A3HOS/)

(/file/FF2GDKOIJ0A3I9K/)

Firstly remove the foil from frame parts. The best way to do it is to use your
nails, you can also use some other tools but thay can't be sharp because you
can scratch it.
Step 3: Z axis assembling

(/file/FO2NS47IJ0A3IL3/)

(/file/F2BVA78IJ0A3IWO/) (/file/F8V3UURIJ0A3JG5/)
Show All Items

First thing is to build main frame. On included SD card you can find video tutorial
about how to assemble the frame unfortunatly there is only how to assemble
frame (nothing about connection e.t.c.).
Step 4: Y axis assembling

(/file/FVW926UIJ0A3K94/)

(/file/FSJLEQQIJ0A3KAV/) (/file/FRBT5G4IJ0A3KB5/)

(/file/FOEFO26IJ0A3KLW/) (/file/F78OXQ4IJ0A3KDH/) (/file/FJFZPZ3IJ0A3KG7/)

(/file/F7CJ7O8IJ0A3K4V/)
(/file/FTX7QU2IJ0A3KN3/) (/file/FCBOHA0IJ0A3KO4/)

On the images above you can see how to assemble Y axis. You can also watch
video from sd card. The most important things:
spacing between the longest screws must be good for bearings otherwise it
wouldn't move smoothly.
toothed belt must be tight

Step 5: X axis assembling

(http://cdn.instructables.com/F0D/GV7I/IJ0A3K14/F0DGV7IIJ0A3K14.LARGE.jpg)
So same as y axis photos above and videos on SD card. Most important things:
brace toothed belt after combined X asxis with Z axis
close back plate at the end

Step 6: Put it all together

(http://cdn.instructables.com/FIX/CHF5/IJ0A3L55/FIXCHF5IJ0A3L55.LARGE.jpg)
Now you can combine X, Y and Z axis with other parts. Before turning it on add
two small piece of plastic on the top of Z axis to set bars in good position. Screw
all thing very strong but be careful to not destroy anything.

Step 7: Bed

(/file/FE7548TIIYWWSL7/)

Heating bed is better because your prints hold better to surface and won't
unstick while printing. On this bed you can find blue tape, with it you prints won't
unstick but thay can be hard to remove so the best way is to make glass table
(look at last step).
Screw heating bed to Y axis metal plate with screws and springs.

Step 8: Extruder

(/file/FGMLRN4IJ0A3KV5/)
(/file/FB7A0IYIJ0A3L98/)

Screw the extruder with 3 screws to X axis. Make sure that it is fixed very strong.
Also fix fan for cooling printed layers.

Step 9: Endstops

(http://cdn.instructables.com/FOG/D50A/IJ8X1LT1/FOGD50AIJ8X1LT1.LARGE.jpg)
3D printer use endstops to find where it is. Before every print it goes to the 0
point on each axis and then start printing.
Endstops you need to place on every axis and add something to limit the
movement. I glued pice of plastic with double sided tape. On phots you can find
where I place it.
X axis: place endstop near to extruder
Y axis: place endstop near to motor, on the back of printer
Z axis: place endstop above one of Z axis motor (no matter which one)

Step 10: Connection

(/file/FURH02XIIYWWSJB/)

(/file/FRYOIBDIIYWWSKX/) (/file/FXYJ5BAIJ8X1M5P/)
Every wire is described (in english and chienese) so you can't connect it
incorrectly. But for sure I will write below things, that you might have problem
with.
1. Bed
Wire with connector plug into TEMP_BED on controll board and two cables
without any connectors plug into screw terminal described as BED (red to + and
black to -). Other side of cable plug into heated bed there is only one possible
way to connect it.
2.Extruder
Both fans to screw terminal (FAN). Stepper motor to MOTO_E0. Termistor to
TEMP_E0 (again with connector). Head to screw terminal (E0).

Step 11: Power suply

(/file/FIIA710IIYWWT23/)

Connect all like on image WITH TURNED OFF POWER BE CAREFUL THIS IS
HIGH VOLTAGE!!!
+V from power supply to VCC with white frame around screw terminal on control
board.
-V from power supply to GND screw terminal on control board.
Step 12: Display and controll board

(/file/FCXVQMYIJ8X1LZS/)

(/file/FJDHLFEIJ8X1M3U/) (/file/FJOD1J3IJ8X1MKC/)

This is part of this printer that I like the most especially this rotary button :) This
is best control type that I saw (same control panel we have in school). This is
very nice to operate.
Step 13: Organizing cables

(/file/FTF0AUQIIYWWTSO/)

Organize all cables with flexible cable wrap and zip-ties. This make it look better
and it decrease possibility of cables snarl.

Step 14: Spool holder

(/file/FL91NAVIJ6CFPQ6/)

Very strong and decent spool holder. It's very usefull but it wouldn't unwrap itself
so you need to unwrap it every some time or add plastic tube or something. I'm
looking for something that can be good for it if I find it I will update this.
Step 15: Software

(/file/F31HINJIJ0AA9WX/)

The best program for making gkods to this printer is cura. Cura is free and really
good software made by ultimaker.
Best settings for this printer:
1. layer height: I tested 0.2mm and 0.25mm but I heard that with this nozzle
(0.4mm) you can print to 0.14 mm (not tested, yet).
2. Shell thickness: 0.8mm (but can be more of course)
3. Bottom and top thickness: 0.4 or 0.6 mm
4. Fill density: your choice
5. Print speed: 40mm/s
6. printing temperature: depends on material that you use
7. Bed temperature: depends on material that you use
8. Diameter: 1.75mm
9. Flow: 100%
10. Nozzle size: 0.4 mm

Step 16: Calibration


Go to menu->prepare and select autohome then then go to menu->prepare->
move axis->1mm and move head over whole table (don't change Z position) and
turn screws in bed to get same height in every place. Height must be big enough
to fit between head and table sheet of paper.
Step 17: Printing

(/file/FTB7PL5IIYWWU1G/)

(/file/FF529ACIIYWWU9Z/) (/file/FEDZD39IIYWWUCX/)

(/file/FYLWMKUIIYWWUEL/) (/file/FHXG9FSIIYWWUXM/) (/file/FC1IH8YIIYWWV4Y/)

(/file/FRK56K4IIYWWV51/)
(/file/FC1LS6QIIYWWVA1/) (/file/FHGAFLWIJ0A3D3O/)

(/file/FKBDHH8IJ0A3DH3/) (/file/FSZ1LIMIJ8X1MAS/) (/file/F4IFKRWIJ8X1M75/)

(/file/FJ7S2XJIJ8X1LLO/)

On the photos you can see prints, that I made on this printer. I will update it after
I printed something new. I can say that prints are realy good, they aren't ideal
but I think it's good.
If you didn't set temperatures in cura, you need to preheat bed and head before
every print (prepare->preheat PLA->preheat pla1). And to print choose printing
from SD card and find your gcode.
Step 18: Glass table upgrade!

(http://cdn.instructables.com/F0Y/LJ9Q/IJ0A3ERH/F0YLJ9QIJ0A3ERH.LARGE.jpg)

(http://cdn.instructables.com/FN7/68JJ/IJ6CFPX2/FN768JJIJ6CFPX2.LARGE.jpg)
Glass table helps removing your prints from table. You don't need any tape, glue
and any other thing to print with PLA but printing on clear glass with ABS is
almost imposible. So if you like to print with ABS you need to use painter tape,
glue, or some special pad.
To make your own glass table you will need:
- piece of glass
- glass cutter
- measure tape
- 4 black paper clips
- something long and rigid to cut glass straight

1. Remove blue tape from table and clean it with alcohol or benzine
2.Cut glass with this size 21,5 x 20,5 cm
3.Sand it down a little bit
4.Attach it to heated bed with black paper clips
5.Calibrate it again
And now you can make good print without annoying tape. The next plus of
printing on glass is that bottom side of your prints is perfectly smooth and after
cool down you can remove your prints easier.
Thanks for reading!

We have a be nice comment policy.


Please be positive and constructive. w I Made it! Add Images Post Comment

elmzarcega (/member/elmzarcega) 2 days ago Reply

I have exactly this type of 3d printer.. Anyone can provide the


stock firmware for this printer..?

X tobias.sobkowiak (/member/tobias.sobkowiak) 2 days ago Reply


8
Nicely done. To get better surface, you have to increase
fowrate.

X Nikus (/member/Nikus) (author) . tobias.sobkowiak (/member/tobias.sobkowiak)


|
8 Thanks! Yes I know about that but I haven't tried it yet 2 days ago Reply

on this printer

J SquaredA (/member/J SquaredA) 3 days ago Reply

Hi i am really looking foward to trying this.


Was the 7 hours u spent working on this continuous? how
easy was it to put together and calibrate (scale of 1-10)
thanks!
X Nikus (/member/Nikus) (author) . J SquaredA (/member/J SquaredA) Reply
|
8 It took me 7 hours with breaks. I think that this is very, very easy 2 days ago
to assemble (9/10) and I'm sure that you can do it. If you have
any questions, leave a comment or write to me and I will help
you with this.

| rafununu (/member/rafununu) 2 days ago Reply

It looks cheap but it's not, only 235$, provided you live in
China ! For
europeans there's 182$ of freight costs ! (and more for
certain
countries) I didn't know UPS delivers with Ferrari's or maybe
the
package must is gold plated...

peabody1929 (/member/peabody1929) 2 days ago Reply

Print ABS on Kapton tape not blue painter's tape.

Sqidman31 (/member/Sqidman31) 3 days ago Reply

What kit did you use?

J SquaredA (/member/J SquaredA) . Sqidman31 (/member/Sqidman31) Reply

it's a link in step 1 3 days ago

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