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There’s BBQ

Where there’s smoke

It looks like a trailer at a third world construction site.


You’d never go there on a first date.
But does BT’s Smokehouse make up in taste
for what it lacks in looks?
We found out.
uring the Vietnam War, my country

D confined me to a swamp in Louisiana. I


whined about it during those two
years of unspectacular service, but on reflec-
BY RICHARD MURPHY

tion, I’ll admit it was a lucky break. Still, it was


not an exciting place to be unless you got to then return on the seemingly never ending describe it that way. I can’t tell you why I’m
bivouac amongst the alligators, something I road back to our base.The further the distance attracted to it, but as the song says,“fools
was not called on to do. from the Crescent City, the more the style of give you reasons, wise men never try.”
I was, in my own way, stalwart in the cam- food would change. It was during such a ride Though we do have a smattering of bar-
paign against boredom.This explained my tak- when I was introduced to the smoked meat of becue joints in Massachusetts, they tend to
ing every opportunity to head down to New barbecue. seem elegant compared to the ones I expe-
Orleans with others in my section.We would This was food with a flavor that struck me rienced on the road back to my temporary
surfeit ourselves on saucy french cuisine and as very odd, at first. In fact, I would still homeland. It was with this in mind that as

Entrees — Include House Salad or Cup of Soup, Our Famous


potato and vegetable and Dessert Buffet Italian-American Buffet
$23.95
Freshly Roasted Half Chicken. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . $15.95
Fresh Fried Fish and Chips (Fried Haddock) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . $15.95 Includes: Beef, Ham, Shrimp, Eggplant,
Homemade Cheese Ravioli with Meatballs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . $16.95 Tripe, Baked Haddock, Veal Cacciatore,
Veal Cacciatore with Fresh Mushrooms and Peppers . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . $17.95 Gnocchi, Manicotti, Rice Balls,
Pan Fried Veal Parmigiana. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . $17.95 Assorted Cold Italian Meats,
Roast Stuffed Native Turkey with Rom’s giblet gravy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . $18.95 Sausage and Peppers, Rigatoni,
Baked Fillet of Haddock in Wine Butter Sauce . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . $18.95 Meatballs, Roasted Potatoes,
Prime Rib of Beef au jus. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . $23.95 Large Variety of Salads
Baked Stuffed Jumbo Shrimp with Rom’s special seafood stuffing . . . . . . . . . . . $24.95 (Italian, Caesar, Three Bean, Beet,
Potato and Seafood, etc.)

11 am to 8 pm Dessert Buffet
RESERVATIONS ON THE HALF HOUR is included with all dinners.
PLEASE CALL AHEAD Items include: Cannoli, Cream Puffs,
508-347-3349 Crustada, Eclairs, Cheesecake, Brownies,
Strawberry Shortcake, Jello-Cream,
or 1-800-ROM-1952 Homemade Cookies

Rt. 131, Sturbridge


AMERICAN EXPRESS, DINERS CLUB, MASTER CARD, VISA, DISCOVER
8 THE STURBRIDGE TIMES MAGAZINE THE CHRONICLE OF STURBRIDGE COUNTRY LIVING
RESTAURANT REVIEW
BT’S SMOKEHOUSE
228 STURBRIDGE RD, BRIMFIELD
The flavoring fuel
at BT’s Smokehouse in Brimfield
we approached was, they would where Brian’s parents live. Brian is not a west-
BT’ Smokehouse in is Applewood. have a hard time beat- ern-Massachusetts native. He lived elsewhere
Brimfield, my son, Ciarán, ing BT’s barbecue. in the state while growing up and was born in
not yet cosmopolitan, said he thought One thing did stand out.The smokey Albuquerque, New Mexico.
he was in Alabama. Pretentious—BT’s is not. flavor in my order permeated all of the meat, After arriving in Brimfield, Brian assumed
And it doesn’t have to be. meaning, I guess, that it was done “the right the role of temporary chef at Spire in Boston
So what if we weren’t met by a Maitre D’. way”. (now KO Prime). Barbecue has always been
The food does the talking at BT’s. The right way, according to BT, is to dry rub Brian’s hobby. He liked to grill when he was
Okay.The menu is not extensive, but is cer- the meat and then smoke it for up to 14 growing up and bought a smoker five years
tainly to the point: it’s all meat. And the usual hours. The flavoring fuel is applewood of ago.When he moved to this area, he was
suspects are arraigned.There is pulled pork, which we have an abundance in these parts. focused on the nationally-known Brimfield
smoked beef brisket, pork and beef ribs and So, who is BT? Antiques Fair, with barbecue in mind.
even a brisket chili. Tossed in for good meas- Brian Treitman is a graduate of the Culinary At BT’s Steakhouse, there is no wine list, nor
ure is smoked chicken. Institute of America.With training in haute is beer available, but Brian hopes to have an
The menu and pricing at BT’s makes it easy cuisine, he has worked in Napa Valley for Jan operation up and running at the Hyland
to try two types of meats or ribs. I took the Birnbaum (of Catahoula [Napa] and Sazerac Orchard in Sturbridge about mid-May.
“two meats deal” and ordered pulled pork and [Seattle] fame). Brian has also worked under Brian’s operation is cash-only, no credit
beef brisket. Ciarán selected both types of Ming Tsai, of Food Network/PBS fame, at Tsai’s cards, which doesn’t present much of a hassle
ribs.We, of course, shared. superb east-west eatery, Blue Ginger in since the prices are so reasonable.
There is not much one can say about barbe- Wellesley. (Sturbridge Foodies note: Blue So, if you like that smoked flavor, or are just
cue. Either it’s good or it isn’t. And for those Ginger will reopen on May 8 after undergo- fighting a cholesterol deficiency, head west on
very interested in the subject, one might ask, ing a double-sized expansion and renova- Route 20 out of Sturbridge, into Brimfield and
does it beat the competition? tion). watch for BT’s Smokehouse on the left. And if
This was very good. There is no competi- After their marriage, Brian and Marni you’re so inclined, you’re likely to find Brian
tion around, so that answers that, but if there Treitman left Napa and moved to Brimfield, with his smoking treats at the antique shows.

THE CHRONICLE OF STURBRIDGE COUNTRY LIVING THE STURBRIDGE TIMES MAGAZINE 9