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HASLAM SYSTEM OF DRESSCUTTING COPYRIGHT No. 10 ILLUSTRATED BOOK OF DRAFTINGS FOR LINGERIE INCLUDING BLOUSES, SKIRTS, MATERNITY WEAR, OVERALLS AND MEN’S WEAR RE SECS SHEE IEEE SL IESE BIE SIS MISS F. A. HASLAM 45 SEYMOUR ROAD, BOLTON, LANCS. TELEPHONE: EAGLEY 1168 | —_—— ee HELPFUL HINTS—continued from page two af cover Pyjamas, Figs. 15 and 16. Silk, Rayon or Clydella Crepe. 43/5 yards 36-in. Nightgown, Fig. 17. Clydella Crepe. 44/42 yards 36-in. 4 yard lace for yoke. Nightgown, Fig. 18. Satin or Lingerie Silk. 44/5 yards 36-in. 3 yards lace insertion. Fix the lace on the neck and sleeves, stitch neatly and cut the silk away at the back. Gather the fronts and arrange to crossover 3-in. Sew the insertion to the top and bottom of the waistband, then fix the fronts to the top of the insertion and sew neatly or machine. Gather the skirt and fix to the bottom of insertion at the waist. The tie is inserted at the end of band. Nightgown, Fig. 19. Lingerie Silk. 44/5 yards 36-in. 24 yards insertion 2-in. wide. 2 yards narrow lace for sleeves. Gather across the front waist to within 2-in. of underarm, gather the skirt round and join to the bodice. Stitch on the insertion and cut the back away. Cut the sleeve frill on the cross and finish the edge with lace. Attach the tie under end of insertion at the sides. Nightgown, Fig. 20. Satin or Silk. 5/54 yards 36-in. 3 yards I-in. wide lace. Gather the lace and arrange on the fronts, spacing about 2-in. apart. Insert or whip neatly on. Gather the front to fit the band and machine. Gather the top and finish with lace. Cut the shoulder folds on the cross and make in double silk, pleat at each end, fix in position and stitch. Blouse, Fig. 21. Organza or Nylon. 2 yards 36-in. Trace the pattern for the back from the drafting. The collar is fixed to within 3-in. from end of rever. Skirt, Fig. 21. Gingham or Wool material. 3 yards 36-in. or 2 yards 54-in. Blouse, Fig. 22. Striped Silk or Rayon. 2 yards 36-in. Fix the yoke in position, the front to meet the yoke at armhole 2-in. below the shoulder seam and the back $-in. down. Arrange the fullness and machine round. Face the revers from the shoulder to 3-in. wide at end of point, machine the short centre seam, then lay right over left and fix the point. Blouse, Fig. 23. Satin or Silk. 2 yards 36 in, First cut off one width of material the front length. Machine about 10 fine tucks, measuring |4-in. from the centre line for the first tuck, and press, fold the box pleat then cut to the shape of the pattern. The collar is made of narrow piping cords, fagotted to the shape of the pattern. a ——_ an Blouse, Fig. 24. Nylon or Organza, 2 yards 36-in. This design is smart for Cocktail or Summer wear. The neck and sleeve armholes are finely bound or piped. Cut the frill on the cross, in single or double material about 2 yards x 3-in. wide finished, gather and insert in the yoke seam. The fold is cut on the cross, the required length x I4-in. wide finished, run the fold to the yoke seam or insert, to fold upwards. Omit the yoke for evening wear, to give Cameo neck line. Skirt, Fig. 24. Matt crepe, Morocain or Woollen. 24 yards 36-in. or |£ yards 54-in. Blouse, Fig. 25. Silk or Crepe. 2 yards 36-in. Dress, Fig. 26. Fine Woollen or Rayon Gabardine. 44 yards 36-in. 34/4 yards 54-in. Threadmark all pleat fitting lines. Face the bodice fronts from the shoulder to 3-in. wide at the waist. Tack down a turning round the point, place the centre lines over each other and cut the under point away. Machine the centre seam of skirt and press open. Fix the bodice front to the skirt and machine, then fix the skirt and bodice together at the waist, machine and press the seam open. Fold the pleat from the shoulder, with the fitting lines together and tack the pleat to the bottom. Then machine 5-in. down inside from the shoulder and cut the surplus away. Press. Stitch across the waist and insert the belt under edge of pleat. Smock, Fig. 27. Printed Cotton or Gingham. 24/23 yards 36-in. No drafting is given for the skirt, Fig. 27. The plain two piece can be used, allowing 9-in. extra to include hem on each front for wrap. Add tie at waist and make buttonhole on the side to slot through. Overall, Fig. 28. Linen or Printed Cotton. 34/4 yards 36-in. Face the fronts from back of neck to waist and machine 3-in. from edge. Trace a pattern from the front drafting for the loose collar, slope to 2-in. wide at end of rever and make in double material. After com- pleting the overall, hem in the loose collar. Aprons, Fig. 29. Printed Cotton or Linen, I+ yards 36-in. Waist apron. Printed cotton. | yard 36-in. MEN’S WEAR Coat, Fig. 30. Flannel or Cloth. 24 yards 54-in. Shorts. Pique, Linen, Repp or Suiting. 13 yards 36-in. 14 yards 54-in. Shirt. Clydella, Poplin or Fibro. 3/34 yards 36-in. PRINTED IN ENGLAND BY PETTY & SONS LTD. _ SPORTS JACKET, “SHORTS AND SHIRT. - ‘Measurements to be taken are :— COAT. Round chest messure. Back MEN’S WEAR SCALE OF PROPORTIONATE MEASURES re ks Back Sleeve Sleeve Sleeve Chest Neck Shoulder Length Seat Armhole Elbow Length Tength ‘of coat. Forearm. seam ef 36 15 5h i aie 12) = sleeve, 3816 Sk 2840 nah? 1240 ITE SHORTS. Side length, Round seat 4 17 5h — Fre 3 = Adie O17 — =F 1) — shu Chase seine end te hopenive eneaspoenes ea shed ke. homed tha underarm for aca ecuaey ne Powe De | ‘sed. "The Coat length i adjusted as required. ‘The Sleeve Armhole measure are given ih proportion with the Chest messures, ‘Coat Drafting. This works out 2-in, larger at the seat than the Chest Shorts. The drafting is based 0° seat and 18-in, length. For larger sizes Increase the width he sidelines for every 2-in. extra measurement required. SHIRT DRAFTING wok sleeve BE ener ton tae came LG on ise “Saae aa oe srons count NE BAND and LOOSE cOULAR —— BOOK OF ‘THE DRAFTINGS in this book are based on the FOUNDATION DRESS PATTERN given In the Foundation Instruction Booklet, First draft the plain foundation, chen follow the drafings. When FOUNDA TION No. 2 is co be used for the "ne. che pattern must be adjusted before adding the design. All de> “tual fiting lines, the dorted lines are construction lines « DARTS. Where darts are to be © material they are shown in the drafting, Ifa dare is marked pie must be pinned up in the pattern before the material Is ¢ Ais gives plain ficting with- When cutting out materials, the fe: ‘Shoulder and side seams (For Blous «turnings must be allowed:— and Lingerie fin Jue Ina Neck and armholes sin. Collars Ha, ems (For Blouses and Lingerie -in) Din, SEAMS. BLOUSES. The seams should be mide 38 “French seams”. SKIRTS. The seams are machined and the turnings overcast, or HELPFUL HINTS ON THE MAKING MATERIALS SUGGESTED Dressing Gown, Fig. I, Prined ko yen ford 5/54 yrds 26 The Cliar ad fru facings ar cut ln oe rom soe coders bate ot neck tothe walt. The peat trad rom the ont raping, When ieting the material slow Sun. hem down the fronts, fold Sver and tack down, or ade facing and machine. Fx on the llr and re fing, machin. fold ove and tack loin to the hem ct fone facing st Dressing Gown, Fig. 2. Wool velour or flannel. 5/54 yards 36: ‘The collar and cuffe are trimmed with crosway binding in a con- ‘atting shade, cut the material If-in. wide and fold down the centre. {Cut the collar in double material ans Insert the fold between, essing 5 Viele round the curve, machine, turn through and tack. Fix the coll to the neck ofthe gown and hem a crossway binding over the turnings. 34/4 yards Stn Dressing Jacket, Fig. 2. Satin. 2; vards 36-in. 24 yards lining 36-in. 3B yards Trin wide Ince, i Dressing Gown, Fig. 4. Camel or Wool velour. yard contrast for facings. The collar and cufls are cut in double material, with the facing in ‘Allow hem down the fronts of the Machine round the collar, eurn thi machine, neaten with binding. BYYA yards Stns, n, fold under and slipstiteh, ‘and tack, Fix to the neck and House Gown, Fig. 5. Nylon or Sb yards 36-in. Face the fronts from the shoulder and join to the front hem at the waist. Make the collar and machine t9 the neck then hem the under= part to the collar seam, 2 House Gown, Fig: 6 Printed Sik or Cotton. 5/54 yards 364. Machine the shoulder dart and seam, Pres Make the collar in double materia fon round the bac and down the ftontes ‘Such the plats acre and Wingy under the Piston, machine. Alo machine the small dare at the end. ibrange the collar in postion, fix the peat on the shoulder and slipstiteh across. DRAFTINGS serrated except in linen or moygashel when th- ~--+ binding, or French seams made- UNDERWEAR. The seams are “run ano some garments French seams are made, SHIRTS. Meo’s shirt seams are “run ane ‘outside of the garment. SLEEVES. The fixing ofsloves inthe corroct postion ito the groacst importance, and the directions given below should be followed: Hold the garment with the armhole towards you and place the slave seam diny cowards the front, with the hollow part co the fromt of armhole. Run a gathering thread round the sleeves, fhe in round the Uncerarm and dierbuce the fullness evenly over the top. Waere 3 support is required in the top of sleeves, cut in double muslin in. Bin and taper st each end. Insert a ayer of wadsing and st ‘through. Cover with own material. Stlech to the armhole turnings nd eltch to the shoulder seam. COLLARS. When drafting collars, the shoulder lines of the front and back patterns are pinned together and the neck line measured from the centre back to the position given for end of collar. This measurement {ives the basis for the collar drafting. OF GARMENTS GIVEN IN THIS BOOK AND AMOUNTS REQUIRED ig. 7. Corduroy velvet. 5/54 yards 3 Si2and the fiaming let a ae in portion over the pocket, siptitch round leaving the lower edge lose. The collar and cats are Incrtied with must, Band 9. Nylon or Cotton Veiles. Sip and Franch Knickers Figs yards Ion, wide ineertion. Sie Ree" ein ieee Fig 9 yore ae Tn cant ron gato he lp set with rerio, gether sha ergo teas Opie lrga ad fate anon Sr llc bth ee ips akon re fhe Se material the sup Sin eap andthe Reker f'n at teen the Bobo width ot iho, Make-up Cape. Silk or Rayon. Tining. ‘Cut the material and lining the same shape, machine round, and turn through. Divide the neck fine for buttonholes and bind. The tle is slotted throug I yards 36in. 14 yards 36-in. for Set, Figs. 10, 11 and 12. Satin or Lingerie silk. Slip, 2§ yards 36-in. 4 yards 2{-in, wide lace. CCami-knickers, 2 yards 36+in, 3 yards 2i-in. wide lace. French knickers, I} yards 36in, 24 yards 2in, wide lace. Slip. Fix the lace on the top portion of the slip to fit the pattern, pleat or dare to shape at the point. Knicker. Ifthe pointed line in the leg, preferred, the fils shown in the drafting, is uld be pleated to Iie fat inthe point, Ynderskirg Fig. 13 Bulleup shoulder. Sik or Rayon 24/23 yards ‘Arrange the fullness in the upper portion into two pleats or darts ‘on each i “The trimming is scalloped and butconhole edged. Curve with a coin. Fig? 4, Cambric or Coton. If yar’ ~ * ‘An opening is made from the walst in the s'4e sear for the fastening. thy tae cv 1 i ' ' ' BELT AND TIE Make the tle double material 2 wide and slope to. 3° wide at ‘ends 3 i 3 te! s 5 & 1 . i fi 3 S} a 3 - 4 “rf wide ‘hn bp ne é : 1 comec i | 2 ‘5 wider than hips line SLEEVE FIGS. | and 6 Sleeve length lee4™ armbole less 2 56 a. de eee Eamrviea ac Fold of paper Fold of paper ‘Cut the sleeve 2 longer and face for cuft sLeeve IG. 17 Sleeve Tenge ‘Gather into 1° wide band COLLAR FIG. 17 Pace to fold a Pin vp dey vt Lace Gather fulness into yore 5 t t ' ea " reduced 1 ont i nev 1 i | ' 1 \ ' ' 1 3 1 3 1 og 1 & ' ' i I ' i i i i i 1 ' F wir hn nous ba! i BACK Fig. 17 Length reduced 5° wider than acruss bust Pace to fold . Saud \\_ Shoulder straps. yx 20" oft et od open Ws Cat and 2 oper This drafting to be This dating to be used "from the sais line for Figs '9 8 20 Required length Place 4 from fold for gathers (6° for Nylon) FIGS. 19 & 20 Fig. 19. The drafting |s on page 7 Pree to Tole Gather into band_K gly ‘Add skire as Fig. 20 le, Underarm ia from Dot 3 from Dot 3 SKIRT BLOUSES tuou 10) MOnY eas 9495 Ox 6 COLLAR FIG. 22 Neck SLEEVE ' The destin ison page I 4/5" wider than hips line [Corner | FRONT FIG, 22 BLOUSE FG. 21 Trace for Back Comer comes 4 fe Ke 1 iy y eqn HHS BRM iat F A) wider th ps tine SKIRT BACK COLLAR FIG. 21 FIG. 21 od 321d ip Nec of paonpas o2ed ¥ Bh 5 PI oF ae BLOUSES SKIRT {3 SLEEVE The drahing ison page 10 Gene Tilow 3 Tor box pleat Allow 4° extra for fine Tweks. Rafer to cover Corner | Tow F Tor fem (Goel lopen' 2" for Glin ue so andinser ‘eres Centre back BACK FIG. 24 Required length BLOUSE FIG.24 “The drteing ton pate 6 Place to fold ay COLLAR 2 wider chan hp tne FIG. 25. f ie 2¥ wider than hips line . Corner 1 Corner | 4 Sach down MATERNITY WEAR Underarm lengts ‘uy sd uy s9pim se Cat and space S76" apart for pleat FIGs. 26 a 27 ¥ wider than hips line COLLAR SLEEVE FIGS. 26 & 27 FIGS. 26 8 27 ‘The draftings are The drafeings are ‘on page'e on page le T 1 FRONT ' FIG, 26 1 i I Sot and space 6° at bottom and taper to 3° at nee 3 space 2 for pleats | hips measure Cut on each tine and ra 3 a apace rs Cenueling |e Wow am or poy 0H OVERALL — APRONS sueeve The drain ison page 10 wider than hips line poonpos sede way 9) EOI 7 or dd yoke ané panel lines 4 wider than hips line Make shoulder dare ae Dress Foundation ‘with essing, a given shove Poway 21 xf on a ei a4 au Pace to felon cross of material SLEEVE FIGS. 26 8 27 Fone we elastic KNICKERS Iasraed on page @ Cut the gusset aquare ahd inert 38/41" Hips messure “e To increase size ada'T" to width Shire irs ay Ly fries SHIRT S ko SHORTS. FIG, 30 Front and Bick Refer to cover, for scale af Before deating sunseain pou DRESSING GOWN DRESSING JACKET....., Fold of paper Tegih > F SLEEVE iG.2 5° wider than hips tine 1 sett ang Te | : Make the sie 2° i wide and lope | Twide at ends, ' . 1 1 ig ' ia , i’ ig $1 S| = an 1S oF ts i= BACK IB : The dratting. 15 i ion pae IP ! pocket 15 ' Make the pocket | ‘ S' x 4 wide, | ' ~ (eet semed 222 i FRONT | es