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Specialized Weft Knit fabrics

Material description:

Base Fabric Material


Name Comments

(Face) Fabric 100% Polyester


Content
Content
w/Backing (Shell
Only)

Fabric Weight
Lining Weight
(Lining Only)
Fabric Fiber Type, Yarn
Construction Size
Type of Weave Knit Pile
Construction
Print/Dye Knit Type
Method
Surface Finish Stain and Water
Repellency
Pattern Repeat 21.33cm

Standard Weft Direction


Cuttable direction

Specialized Weft Knit fabrics


Knits >Pile: Staple of fiber together with ground yarns to the needle
during the knitting action. This is usually treated with finishing producing
fur like effect.

1. Limitation to product

• Cut along weft

• Stitch along weft direction, Especially on top collar, to the same


deflection of yarn at warp/ length side extending 2-3 mm, can’t be
avoidable because the limitation to cutting as well as
stitching on product. Enusre that will be overcome with below
recommendation

• Can’t avoid the glue usage: The roughness/ unevenness at top are
primary re-action of adhesive & margin where applied. To the
reason this been Fixed to 3 mm margin to adhesive & should not
exceed to all layers.

• Should not exceed 2 to 3 mm, maximum are 3mm adhesive margin


will be sufficient ,

• Continue the same margin on all along & for all layers (leather, non
woven, and Kimblon & zipper fabric s/ h better with water based
adhesive rather solvent (Solvent adhesive suitable only permanent
joints, on other hand water based require proper application for
better result.

• Better practice is cross coat avoid air though at the time of sticking.
Too many coats will harden surface: The same was identified &
Sample done with solvent adhesive.

• Improper thread tension : The thickness of the front, back & overall
top were varying ,the reason of the same, Non woven & Kimblon
( lining filler reduced to length ) will not extended to all length . Also
both side of gusset done in same way. To stitching on top & gusset
match thread tension to average thickness.

• We tried three options, in which the reinforcements were removed.


Being a fact it was not good & creating more yarn deflection marks
at needle piercing point

• To the same we approved with filler on gusset as well as on bottom.

We saw the puckering on all along, especially on top collar. The reason
has mentioned below.

R3
R1

R2

2. PUCKERING

The reason for these conditions during transport of the fabric, when using
a machine with the hopper, transport puckering occurs under the
following conditions:

• High friction between feed dog and fabric (R1)


• Low friction between upper and lower fabric (R2)
• High friction between upper fabric and presser foot (R3)

R1+R2+R3 =R puckering
Recommendation: This puckering can be prevented by different measures.
For example one can use Teflon coated presser foot to decrease friction
between upper and presser foot. Another way out is to use sewing
machines with top and drop feed.

Needle point & Throat hole ratio.


Needle point: SES Point (Acute round point) NM 100
Thread used at top collar stitching: Tkt 30 & 40 (Thickness of both thread
range 0.2mm to 0.25 mm,)
Throat plate= 1.5 to 1.6 mm (overall thickness /Dia of needle to time of
stitching 1.45mm)
Material feeding: Drop feed /unison feed mechanism
Suitability of M/c: Light sewing M/C
Scarf position: Back side of m/c / opposite to operator