ISSN 1853-9610

Nº87 OCTOBER - NOVEMBER 2017

On the Rocks
Climbing
in Mendoza

Winery Guide - Restaurants - Maps
w w w. w i n e - r e p u b l i c . c o m 1
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CONTENTS
News Republic Out & About
The Great Wine Crisis 2017................................... 6 Bars............................................................................... 22
A Big Day Out.............................................................. 6 Dining out.................................................................. 24
Tha Asians are coming............................................. 6 Winery Guide........................................................... 26

Scrum in the Sun Maps & More
Rugby returns to Mendoza.................................... 8 Useful information.................................................. 20
Map of Mendoza City Center............................... 30
The Rise and Fall of Rock Climbing Map of Maipú............................................................ 32
Charlie O’Malley gets to grip swith bouldering... Map of Chacras de Coria........................................ 34
12 Map of San Martín Park......................................... 34
Estrella de Los Andes
Train tracks and nostalgia, Gabriela Raimondo
visits a winery that evokes simpler times. ............ 16

CREDITS
Issue OCTOBER - NOVEMBER 2017 -
ISSN 1853-9610.
10,000 Copies. Published by Seven Colors S.A.
Address: Espejo 266, Planta baja. Departamento 3.
Mendoza, Argentina - Tel. +54 (261) 425-5613

Editor: Charlie O’Malley
Publicity and Publisher: Mariana Gómez Rus:
publicidad@wine-republic.com,
mariana@wine-republic.com
Cover illustration: Donough O’Malley”
Contributing writers: Gabriela Raimondo - James
Dossor - Gilda isoardi
Design: Circlan.com .
Jona Conti: jona@circlan.com.
Printer: Artes Gráficas UNION

Opinions expressed in this magazine are not
necessarily the editorial opinions of Wine
Republic www.wine-republic.com

Pag 12 Pag 8 Pag 16

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NEWS REPUBLIC
The Great Wine Crisis 2017
The crisis in the Argentine wine industry continues and
is in fact getting worse. Exports are down 13% from last
year and Malbec is in fact disappearing off the shelves
in some countries as it just cannot compete in price
with New Zealand Pinot Noir and Australian Shiraz.
Compounding this sorrowful tale is the fact that the local
market has also collapsed. Sales of red wine alone are
down a whopping 18%, also due to high prices. If this
wasn´t bad enough, what is really making local wine
makers weep into their tanks is the fact that the domestic
market is now flooded with cheap Chilean wine. Some
40 million litres have been imported this year alone,
destined for the lower end of the market in Tetrapaks
and vino de mesa. The domestic market was always a
sure thing for local producers, a safe haven in times of
trouble. Now that rug has been pulled from under their
feet one can only wonder what next?

A Big Day Out
Alandes is one of Mendoza’s most beautiful wineries.
Constructed in 1904, its Old World design of adobe walls
and shady galleries and courtyards offers a welcome
respite from the hot Maipu sun. Whilst the winery offers
a step back in time the wines themselves are a glimpse
of the future. Winemaker Karim Mussi Saffie combines
modernity with tradition and the result are 90 plus
wines such Altocedro Reserva Malbec and adventurous
labels such as the five grape Paradoux Blend. If you are
in Mendoza on October 28th, be sure to make your way
to the winery for an open day of limitless wine, food and
live music, ending with a charity auction. The winery is
easily reachable by bus or taxi several blocks from the
main wine street Urquiza in Maipu.
Alandes, Gomez Adriano 3602, Coquimbito, Maipu. Tel.
(261)4813201. Whatsapp: +5492614668048

The Asians are Coming
Recently Mendoza police controls have been asking
tourists to produce their passports whilst touring the
high mountains near Aconcagua. This is a new thing
and a considerable inconvenience to visitors and tour
companies as a belligerent police officer can hold up a
bus load of tourists for a considerable time whilst they
try to dig out their documents or explain they do not
have them. When asked why the sudden insistent on
passports, one officer replied it was to thwart to wave
of illegal “asiaticos” crossing the mountains. If hordes of
Chinamen are crossing the Andes, they are doing so with
incredible discretion as nobody else has noticed.

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Scrum
in the

Sun
Rugby returns to Mendoza when the Wallabies meet the Pumas in October.
James Dossor gives the breakdown on what is an exciting International tournament.
After the strange decision of the Argentine Rugby The 2007 Rugby World Cup performance by Argentina,
Union (UAR) to take their ‘home’ game to London a very commendable third place, was the catalyst for
last year, sense has prevailed and the national side, Argentina to be invited into what was previously
los Pumas, will return to Argentina to play their last known as the Tri-Nations. Prior to 2012 rugby was still
match of the Rugby Championship on October 7. The officially an amateur sport and the Pumas had to make
Rugby Championship is run by a body represented by do with one-off test matches against countries either
South Africa, New Zealand, Australia and Argentina or willing to travel to Argentina or play in Europe where
SANZAAR and the competition comprises of these four all of the professional players resided at the time. Since
Southern Hemisphere powerhouses playing each other entering the Rugby Championship, Argentina has
once at home and once away. It is arguably the most enjoyed the highest quality rugby on their doorstep
difficult rugby tournament in the world that boasts all which, despite mixed success on the field, has helped
four semi finalists in the most recent Rugby World Cup boost rugby to arguably the second most popular sport
in 2015. Not only is the standard extremely high, there in the country (of course no sport is going to take the
is a very taxing travel schedule that makes the burden number one mantle from soccer any time soon). Up
of jet lag an important factor also. until 2015, things had been ticking along quite nicely
but this wouldn´t be Argentina without throwing some
As in 2015, the Pumas will be taking on the Australian sort of spanner in the works.
team in Mendoza and current form would suggest it is
anyone´s game. The locals have been underwhelming The UAR has recently made changes to eligibility
in recent times. However, this also coincides with rules. To play for the Pumas you must also play your
very erratic performances from the Wallabies over club rugby in Argentina. The very small professional
the last two years. Even though Argentina is generally opportunities that exist here though are based mainly
the lower ranked of the four, a visit to South America around the Jaguares, a newly formed team who
is never an easy task for the away side. Mendoza has compete in the Super Rugby tournament with the
proven to be a happy hunting ground for the Pumas so other SANZAAR based teams. This has caused much
I´m sure they will be glad to return to the ‘land of sun consternation amongst players here because the larger
and good wine’ with a record of a draw against South squad of the Jaguares is basically the same as the
Africa and a win against Australia in the last four Pumas. This means a very long season for all involved
matches played here. as well as the representative nature of the Pumas
being partly eroded. Coupled with much lower wages

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than what is on offer in Europe, it is no surprise to see
many of the better players going for the cash. The idea Los Pumas - Wallabies/ 21 - 17- 10/4/14
of forgoing the opportunity to play for the national
side must be difficult, however it isn´t just the dollars
luring the talent. Those who play a full season will end
up circumnavigating the planet at least twice and will
probably tour Europe as well. This means a lot of time
away from home and if you´re a fringe player you may
not even get much game time on the field. There are
challenges aplenty for SANZAAR to confront in the
coming years to find the best formula for Southern
Hemisphere rugby but for now most Argentine rugby
Credits: Lanacion.com.ar
fans are happy to see the highest quality rugby here on
an annual basis.

Los Pumas have a very proud history and they are head
and shoulders above the rest of the Spanish speaking
world. Although Uruguay, Chile and Spain have very
competitive teams in the so called third tier of rugby
nations, it will be a long time before any of these
countries challenge Argentina at full strength. While
Argentina can play a very helpful role in spreading
the rugby gospel around South America by assisting
with coaching and being involved with development
competitions, the real challenge for rugby here is to
harness the relatively large and talented amateur
player base into a formidable professional force to be
reckoned with. This will mean Argentina will have to
provide relevant pathways for promising youngsters to
make a career in rugby. With the current structure it is
hard to see this happening and relying on Super rugby
and SANZAAR could be a risky venture. Is it perhaps
time for UAR to set up a professional competition?
The challenge of integrating the large popular Buenos
Aires base with the scattered provinces would be an
obvious obstacle as it is with any venture in Argentina lines up a shot at goal in Ireland. Well, you can
but the question of ‘dinero’ and sponsorship would expect that also here when the home team is kicking,
also be crucial. However, with the professional rugby however, the same courtesy isn’t afforded to the away
landscape changing so quickly, UAR had better have side as the crowd proceeds to bombard the kicker with
some sort of plan B, lest they be left behind. For now jeers and whistles to truly test ones concentration. Not
though we can be content with being able to watch the really in the spirit of rugby but it does give Argentina
best teams on the planet compete right here. a unique aspect to the international game. The jovial
nature of the crowd is all part of the fun but generally
Rugby has many great traditions around the world those attending know their rugby and your life isn’t in
when international matches are played, a particular danger for wearing the away side jersey like it can be
favorite of mine being the dead silence while a kicker in most football matches here!

Credits: Lanacion.com.ar

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The Rise and Fall
of Rock Climbing

Charlie O’Malley gets to grips with bouldering.
Contributor Gilda Isoardi

It’s official, rock climbing is cool. The sport’s recent The sport has many different styles and sub-disciplines,
inclusion in the Tokyo Olympics means the once oddball the most famous of which is free climbing without the
pursuit has finally abseiled with style down to main street. use of ropes. The new Olympic medal involves three
Expect the World to watch agog in 2020 as human ants categories – lead climbing, speed climbing and bouldering
cling, scramble and race over colorful carbuncles with the (relatively short heights over padded mats). It is indicative
occasional heart stopping fall. Climbing is expected to add of just how much climbing has evolved with so many
some newcomer sparkle to Tokyo, much the same as BMX different facets that many criticise the Olympic definition
did at Beijing in 2008. as way to narrow and restrictive.

The stamp of Olympic approval was inevitable. The For example the World’s most famous rock climber Alex
proliferation of indoor rock walls in gyms and sport’s Honnold will not be competing. He is famous for climbing
centres around the World indicate just how popular the the 3000 feet cliff El Capitan in Yosemite without ropes.
sport has become. It is all the more remarkable as the first He argues that in comparison with the Olympics, his
recorded competition only took place in 1985 in Italy and challenges are on a grander scale and never indoors.
the World Cup in rock climbing is only 18 years old. For him to participate in the tournament would be like
putting an ultra-marathonist in a 100-meter sprint.
Yet not all aficionados are exactly stoked about the
Olympic move. They fear what was a free-wheeling, If anything the debate has revealed just how diverse the
adventurous activity with no rules will now become pasttime of climbing has become. There is a World of
crippled with regulation, officialdom and commercial difference between the teeth chattering endurance of
exploitation. Part of rock climbing’s appeal is the fact it climbing Aconcagua to the mental zen required on a rock
is unfettered by rules and fees. Many people might even face without ropes.
argue it is not just a sport, more a performance art with
minimalist and spiritual aspirations. One that requires Yet indoor climbing will create its own stars. Argentina
monumental physical and mental strength. fared remarkably well at the recent Sport Climbing
World Cup in Innsbruck, Austria. 16-year old Valentina
So what is it exactly? Good old Wikipaedia defines it as Aguado came second in bouldering. She comes from the
the following: “Rock climbing is an activity in which neighbouring province of San Luis and her talent and
participants climb up, down or across natural rock enthusiasm is indicative of the strong and passionate
formations or artificial rock walls. The goal is to reach the following rock climbing has in Argentina.
summit of a formation or the endpoint of a usually pre-
defined route without falling.”

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Mendoza makes a happy hunting ground for climbers
with numerous cliff faces drawing thousands of followers
throughout the year. Local pioneers first set out the now
numerous routes in the 1990s and they must rue the day
they could do it in splendid isolation. Technology and
media have changed the face of climbing and it seems
rock climbing , for good or for bad, has finally been taken
into the fold.

Where to Rock Climb in Mendoza
Outdoors

Arenales
Two hours south of Mendoza, near Manzano Historico, is a
multi-colored, granite faced valley that offers a multitude
of rock climbing opportunities that include aid climbing
and bouldering. Reputedly the best place in Central
Argentina with a wide variety of grades. Recommended
is the 300-meter cliff face El Cajon de los Arenales. Be
sure to register with the park rangers at the entrance to
the valley and avail of the free camping.

La Frazada
Located close San Rafael city, three hours south of Credits: en.fonditos.com
Mendoza city, there is a beautiful canyon with over 100
climbing routes over different types of rock. Here you
can do traditional climbing and bouldering. Be sure not Indoor.
to sleep overnight in the canyon as it is prone to flooding.
Club Andinista
Cacheuta Sur Beltran 317, Guaymallen (close to Mendoza bus terminal)
Located 40 minutes south of the city, Agua de Avispas is Mendoza
easily the most accessible rock face from the city. There Tel. 431 9870.
are approximately 20 routes over basalt surfaces and the
grades are easy to mid difficulty. El Muro
Perito Moreno 429.
Rock climbing operators. Godoy Cruz
If you don{t have the means to go solo, try Argentina Mendoza (20 minutes in taxi from the city center).
Rafting or Andes Vertical.

Arenales El Muro

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Estrella
de los Andes

Train tracks and nostalgia, Gabriela Raimondo visits a
winery that evokes simpler times.
Estrella de los Andes was founded in 2010 by three they use. Their top wine, Estrella Negra has won several
partners from Buenos Aires. They found an abandoned competitions worldwide as well as Pont L’Evêque Legende
building that was over 100 years old and decided to which also belongs to the winery’s portfolio. Pont L’Evêque
remodel it, whilst retaining its soul. The building has – Peron’s favorite wine back in the day – has new varieties
a colonial style; thick walls and cane roofs, that have and even a sparkling variation. Several of the labels
endured Mendoza’s constant seismic tremors. The display cars and Lucas continues the tour into a huge
capacity of the winery is 2 million litres but can be as hangar where that inspiration came from. The owners are
much as 3 million if they have a bumper harvest. Lucas hardcore ‘fierreros’ as we say in Spanish or car aficionados
Moran has been the head winemaker for the past seven in English and they have a very impressive car collection.
years and he is enthusiastic and passionate about this The cars and trucks are classic models that have been
intriguing project. improved without modifying the beautiful old exterior.

As one walks through the different areas of the winery, The last stop is the most interesting, the lab, where
you can see it is a blend of tradition and technology that the winemakers work their magic. Here, we try a little
makes the winery stand out. Lucas stops at a curious tank, surprise, fermented plum juice as you cannot apply the
which is half cement and half glass. The idea was to show
the fermentation but it has been even more useful. They
now use it to practice what technique of pumping-over Lucas Moran
works best. Pumping over, also known as remontage, is
the process of pumping must from the bottom of the tank
and splashing it over the top. The purpose is to sink the
skins and seeds that form a cap to macerate with the must
and extract the color and aromas. The new employees
spend a considerable amount of time during harvest
watching the tank and learning. It is a fun activity for
tourists as well.

Lucas Moran prefers to fermentation at low temperatures
to enhance the aromas. It certainly makes a difference
when you try the wines. The bouquet is superb. The
tasting room is the winery’s cellar where you can see
just a few of the American and French oak barrels
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term wine to anything else than fermented grape juice.
Again, the bouquet was beautiful. Lucas was asked to do
it by the owners of the winery and after several attempts;
he was able to present them with a delicious sample that
just sells out rapidly because of its novelty and quality.

Train Bliss
Prímula Cantina Ferroviaria:

The winery restaurant is small, genuine and honest
to the history of Mendoza. It is a homage to Mendoza’s
railway heritage. Argentina’s rail network was once one
of the largest in the Americas. The restaurant is located
right alongside the old train tracks that carried most of
the population back in the 19th century and the train
theme is present everywhere you look. The chef, Emiliano
Schenone, says there is still a cargo train that rattles the
whole place as it passes by. The cantina is the Argentinean
version of a 50’s diner. The atmosphere is relaxed and it
immediately transports you back to the good old days.
If you want to have the complete experience, you can
have your lunch in an old restored wagon. The setting
is not pretentious and nor is the food. The menu consists
of three courses with 3 to 4 options in every course. The
options change every week according to the season and
the availability of local products.

The essence of the cantina is the Mendocino identity,
easygoing and traditional. There’s no rush to finish your meal
and go. You can stay, drink and eat to your heart’s content.

The food is delightful, abundant and tasty. One of the main
attractions is the huge grill and mud oven on the outside. The
smell alone can bring a crowd of hungry tourists. You can
even practice your hand as DJ there is a bountiful collection
of vinyl records and several record players. To start off your
meal, you can order one of their amazing Cinzano drinks.
Argentineans have very strong bonds with Italian culture,
especially Mendoza. There is no wonder Cinzano sponsors
the cantina as it is a match made in heaven. And of course
the wine list showcases the winery’s wines.

Estrella de los Andes is indeed a bright star in the Southern
hemisphere. It is filled with fond memories one can enjoy in the
present with family and friends..
To make a reservation, call 261 2213899 from Tuesday to
Sunday and holidays from 11am to 18 pm

Thumbtack Space
The art on display is the work of ‘Tachuela’ (Thumbtack) Delía. He was
born in Entre Rios but has lived in Mendoza for a very long time. His rock
sculptures are mesmerizing. The materials he uses are rock, iron, wood, even
air. He has a workshop inside the winery where he keeps past sculptures and
art but most importantly, where he keeps reinventing himself and breaking
stereotypes.
He comments that his latest art installation right in the middle of his
workshop, was meant to have an effect on the viewers’ emotions through
not only the art but the aromas and lighting of the setting.
He’s currently developing several projects.
To tour the winery and Tachuela’s Open Studio, call 261 4649190 from
Tuesday to Sunday at 12am and 16pm

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BARS
INSIDE MENDOZA CITY

The list below has some great bars but if you’re looking to browse, head to Aristides Villanueva Avenue,
the nightlife strip of Mendoza. It’s a continuation of Ave. Colon and is simply referred to as Aristides by
the locals. Pubs, bars, restaurants and shops cram together from Belgrano to San Martin Park to provide
you with ample bar options. Get your shut-eye before a night out because the clubs don’t even get started
until 2am, and call a taxi because they are all located out of the city in Chacras or El Challao.

LA TABERNA DE MOE
This all-day, all-night drinking institution is popular with a
young, student crowd and is a refreshing antidote to the cool
posers on Aristides street. Located downtown, just off San Martin
Avenue, it is basically a hole-in-the-wall beer den disguised as a
kiosk. And like all the kiosks, it has lots of Duff Beer.
Catamarca 22. Tel 425 5317

ANTARES BAR
Aristides street would not be very complete without its own
micro-brewery bar. Antares is the real deal and a pioneer
in this respect with bars located across the country since
before it became trendy to brew your own grog. Its long
bar displays tempting casks of great quality beers such as
Scottish ale and Irish stout. This expansive bar packs them
in at night and serves decent pub grub too. Antares Bar.
Aristides 153.

BLACK SHEEP
Just off the Alameda strip, the Black Sheep is an American-
style sports bar with big screen TVs and decent bar food
like nachos, homemade burgers and hot and spicy chicken
wings. While especially popular during sports matches, The
Black Sheep is one of the few bars to stay open everyday
from 12 till 4am so you can grab a pint whenever you like!
Maipu 131, Mendoza (261) 561 4283.

BELIEVE IRISH PUB
One of the few bars in Mendoza with a bar counter and
high stools to prop yourself up on. Kelly, the English part-
owner/pub-mascot is almost always there to share a chat
and a smile with the crowd; which is most likely a factor
in its notable popularity among expats and travelers. On
the menu is a great collection of draught beers, bottled
beers (try the Warsteiner) and surprisingly decent pub
grub. TV screens hang in every corner airing hit music-
video montages or football games. Monday night is
International night and for their packed events DJ’s rock
the house. Colon and España 241. Tel. 261-429-5567.
HANGAR 52
www.believeirishpub.com.ar
This warehouse bar has a rough and ready bohemian vibe
with bare walls and high, corrugated roofing. There is nothing
rough and ready about its beers however as they offer smooth,
well honed IPA, lagers and stouts. There are over 50 variieties
to choose from and service is rapid as they operate a self service
ticket system that puts an end to long waits - a drinker´s curse in
Mendoza. The food is standard fare but with big convivial tables,
resident DJs and early evening opening hours it has quickly
become one of the most popular and lively bars on the strip.
Aristides 168.

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BIKE TOURS IN MAIPU

The most economical way to do a wine tour in Mendoza. Take bus (171,
172 or 173) from Catamarca and Rioja to Urquiza street (see below)
where you’ll find several bike rental companies. Some are notorious
for dodgy bikes. Check and double check you get a good mount as a
puncture can cause a mini nightmare. Head south, as north of Maipu
is urban and not pretty. RECOMMENDED WINERIES Rutini, Tempus
Alba, Di Tommasso, Carinae and certainly Trapiche. When returning
have a late lunch at the excellent “El Enemigo”.

USEFUL INFORMATION
AIRPORT Tel: 5206000 Accesso Norte s/n. El Plumerillo. SHIPPING WINE Ordinary post will not
ship wine and a courier can cost at least U$ 30 a bottle. The most economical way is send it with
your checked luggage in a special styrofoam wine box, available at most wine stores or at Trout &
Wine, Espejo 266. CRIME Be alert. Mendoza does have crime. Hold on to purses on the street and at
restaurants. Avoid carrying valuables. Hostel lockers are not safe. Danger spots: bus terminal and
internet cafes. NIGHTCLUBS In most nightclubs you have to queue twice for a drink which can
get slightly exasperating as the night wears on. It is wise to buy several drink tickets at once for an
easy, unimpeded flow of alcohol. Bathrooms are usually ill equiped so bring your own toilet paper.
Many nightclubs are 200 light years away in Chacras which can cause problems getting home.
Clubs rarely get going before 2am. MENDOZA EXPATS CLUB An organization which enables
Expatriates to meet each other. www.mendozaexpats.org. HAIR DRESSER English speaking and
eccentric hairdresser Haisley will do your hairdo right. Paso de los Andes 997 (esq. Julio Roca), tel
(261) 641 6047.

CHANGING DOLLARS - “Cambio, cambio” shout the arbolitos (money changers) outside Galeria
Tonsa (San Martin 1173), the place to go if you want the best street rate. Larger denomination notes are
preferred. To make sure you are not getting ripped off check the current rate of the “dolár informal” on
www.ambito.com. The Mendoza rate is generally 30 centavos less.

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DINING OUT Recommended

healthy breakfasts and antioxidants
juices, El Mercadito stays open
MENDOZA throughout the siesta with its light
menu of sandwiches, big salads

CITY
and some Argentine classic meals.
Aristides Villanueva 521.
Tel - 4638847. Avg. meal price: $190.
Chacras de Coria: Viamonte 4961. Tel
- 4962267.

La Patrona
Cozy Mendocino restaurant with a Los Toneles
casual, rustic charm attracts with
traditional Argentine food and
friendly and warm atmosphere.
Hearty empanadas and sizzling asado Los Toneles
go with warm, open sandwiches. We
recommend the artichoke hearts Located 15 minutes walk beyond the
and goat cheese; roasted vegetables city center, this handsome historical
with white wine and honey; or the winery offers Old World elegance
more traditional pick of rich glands and atmosphere. The expansive
cooked in lemon. 9 de Julio 656. Tel restaurant serves traditional dishes
- 4291057. Mon. to Sat.:12.30pm- with a gourmet twist and it’s the
3.30pm and 8.30pm-close. Avg. Meal perfect lunch or dinner spot for those
cost: $220. who have just arrived and want
some genuine Mendocino ambience .
Josefina Lateral Norte Acceso Este 1360. Tel -
431 0403. Open Tuesday to Saturday
Trendy and  cosmopolitan, Josefina lunch and dinner.
Restó is an island of elegance on El Mercadito
hectic Aristides Street. The building
is a playful mix of the urbane and Grill Q
the natural. The warmth of vintage
style drawings adorning the walls
are illuminated through large, Grill Q
handsome street windows. The
food is eclectic and seasonal.  www. Chic parrilla style restaurant (part
josefinaresto.com.ar  Aristides of the Park Hyatt hotel) with open
Villanueva 165, Mendoza  5500, kitchen. Famous for grilled meats
Argentina – Tel. 261 4233531 and gigantic empanadas, and serves
hearty Argentine classics such as
‘locro’ – a stew that hails back to
El Mercadito the early independence days. The
Hyatt’s other restaurant, Bistro M,
The perfect spot for some lunch time offers a more gourmet evening menu
sunshine or al fresco dining. Run by and the most exuberant ‘lunch menu’
three friends, El Mercadito has a cool in town. Chile 1124. Tel - 4411225.
vibe and relaxed music making it a Avg. meal Grill Q $250 pesos. Bistro
favorite. Opening in the morning for M - Executive Menu $280.

Josefina Brod
Charming bakery coffee shop with
expansive courtyard set in old
colonial townhouse one block from
Plaza Independencia. Excellent for
light lunches and battery charging
coffee stops. Great wine selection
next door at Winery wine store
can be purchased and sampled in
courtyard. Chile 894. Tel:4252993.

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DINING OUT Recommended

Ruca Malen

OUTSIDE Ruca Malen winery is synonymous
with gourmet food & wine pairings

THE CITY in Mendoza and was a pioneer in
this area. Having lunch in Ruca
Malen is also a visual experience,
from the food served in creative
plates designed especially for the
occasion by local craftsmen to the
breathtaking view one gets of the
Finca Agostino Andes and the vineyard. It also offers
great vegetarian and gluten-free
Elegance, history and the perfect options. Ruta Nacional Km 7, Agrelo,
marriage of food and wine is what Luján de Cuyo, Mendoza. Tel: +54 261
you’ll experience by dining at 553 7164. Cel: +54 9 261 454 1236. AlPasión
the restaurant of Finca Agostino mendoza@bodegarucamalen.com
winery. The overall vibe is polished
and handsome. The food is equally
majestic – 5 courses of well thought,
imaginative dishes that are paired Los Negritos AlPasión
exquisitely with all the winery wines
– often explained and described Family-owned restaurant in the Elegance and luxury are combined
by the chef Sergio Guardia. The rustic splendor of Las Vegas in with breath taking views at what
menu is seasonal with much of the Poterillos, 80 km from Mendoza. This is the latest hotel and restaurant in
ingredients freshly picked from the is without doubt the best restaurant the stunning Uco Valley. Traditional
property’s organic vegetable garden in the mountains, specializing in dishes with the accent on season
and orchard. Carril Barrancas 10590, traditional family recipes that add are served in a light filled dining
Maipú. Tel - 5249358. Avg. meal a new twist to Andean fare such as room with red leather seats, bare
price: $650 pesos. humitas, tomatican and mondongo. rafters and stone walls shadowed by
The restaurant itself is simple and snowcapped peaks. The overall vibe
modern with no frills, but the food of is comfort and elegance with an open
course. Open weekends and public fireplace for those chilly high altitude
holidays 12 midday to 4pm. Avg nights. Avg. meal price: $400 pesos.
$250 AR. Los Olmos ST. La Vegas, Ruta Prov. No 94. Las Chacayes,
Potrerillos. Te. (0261) 155697431. Tunuyan. Tel. +54 9 2613202999.
www.alpasion.com.ar.

La Azul
A pioneer in the Uco Valley region,
this boutique winery now offers
hearty lunches in a rustic setting with
stunning views of the mountains.
Family-owned , the owners are often
your hosts and they take pride in
serving giant portions of excellent
beef and pork dishes, accompanied
by the winery’s excellent, high
Finca Agostino altitude wines. Popular, authentic
and unforgettable. Open Tuesday to
Sunday. Lunches only. Tupungato.
Lunch in a Winery Tel - (02622) 423 593. La Azul

Whatever you do in Mendoza,
make sure to have lunch in a Restaurant Lares de Chacras Terruño-Club Tapiz
winery. There is nothing quite
like sitting back to a long line of One of Mendoza’s most charming Tucked away among the sprawling
wine glasses holding delicious boutique wine hotels has now opened Maipú vineyards lies Club Tapiz
Chardonnay, Torrontes, Malbec its excellent restaurant to the general Resort and its lovely restaurant
and Cabernet Sauvignon public. Located in the picturesque Terruño. This handsome eatery
(amongst others), accompanied wine village of Chacras de Coria, boasts an elegant interior, excellent
by the finest, gourmet food a 20 minute drive from the city, service and a wine list that is sure
Argentina has to offer. The icing Lares offers traditional local dishes to please even the most finicky of
on the cake is that icing on the in a rustic deluxe environment. wine snobs. Ruta 60 s/n 5517 Maipú.
Andes in the background and the Every Wednesday they offer asado, Tel: 496 0131. www.tapiz.com Lunch,
lush green vines of the vineyard. Argentine bbq. Larrea 1266, Chacras every day, 12pm – 3pm. Dinner, Sun
It is definitely the most civilised de Coria, Tel. (0261) 491 1061 www. -Thurs, 8pm-11pm, Fri & Sat until
way to get drunk on the planet. laresdechacras.com/ 12am. Avg. meal cost: $450 pesos.

25
THE WINERY GUIDE
Luján de Cuyo Maipú Valle de Uco

Los Toneles

City Center winery Los Toneles
CITY has a charming Old World feel
and excellent restaurant. It is a
five minute walk east of the bus
station.”Dirección: Acceso Este
Lateral Norte 1360, 5519 Mendoza.
(0261) 431-0403. Open everyday.
www.bodegalostoneles.com Los Toneles
Clos de Chacras Cruzat

LUJÁN
Charming boutique operation with A boutique traditional sparkling wine
nice history. A five minute walk producer with gorgeous bubbles that
from Chacras plaza. Best Wine: Gran can be enjoyed from their terrace
Estirpe. (0261) 496 1285/155 792706.
Monte Libano s/n, Luján de Cuyo.
www.closdechacras.com.ar
DE CUYO overlooking vines. (261) 5242290, Costa
Flores, s/n, Perdriel,
www.bodegacruzat.com

Terrazas de los Andes Melipal Alta Vista

The fine wine sister of Chandon Great Malbec and gourmet lunches Masterful mix of modern and
Argentina is a beautifully restored make Melipal one of the most traditional. Tasting includes
bodega with well-appointed tasting exclusive wineries to visit. (0261) distinctive Torrontes or single
room. Best Wine: Cheval de los 4790202. R.N.7, 1056km, Agrelo, vineyard Malbecs. (0261) 496 4684.
Andes. (0261) 488 0704/5. Thames Luján de Cuyo. www.bodegamelipal. Álzaga 3972, Chacras de Coria, Lujan
and Cochabamba, Perdriel, Luján de com.ar de Cuyo. www.altavistawines.com
Cuyo. www.terrazasdelosandes.com

Mendel Matervini
Terrazas de los Andes
An old style winery ran by one of Two Malbec pioneers - Santiago
Argentina’s most famous winemaker Achaval and Robert Cipresso,
dynasties the De La Motta family. break new, exciting ground with
(0261) 524 1621. Terrada 1863, Mayor rich, mineral wines from unusual
Drummond, Lujan de Cuyo. www. terroirs.   This tiny, boutique
mendel.com.ar operation only sells from the
winery.    Cobos 2142. matervini.com.
Viña Cobos Tel. 261 5616691.
Luigi Bosca
American winemaker Paul Hobbs Belasco de Baquedano
The Arizu dynasty are the royal was one of the first to recognise
family of Argentine wine and their the possibilities of Malbec and his Gleaming modern facility with
seat of operations is a handsome and Bramare label is possibly one of the fascinating aroma room and restaurant
elegant 110-year old winery. (0261) best examples of this varietal. (0261) with Andean view. (0261) 524 7864.
498 1974. San Martin 2044, Mayor 479 0130. R.N. 7, Lujan de Cuyo. Cobos 8260, Lujan de Cuyo. www.
Drummond, Luján de Cuyo. www. www.vinacobos.com belascomalbec.co
luigibosca.com.ar

Catena Zapata Ciudad
Showcase winery designed like Luján de Cuyo
a Mayan temple overlooking
vineyards and the Andes Mountains. Maipú
Rich, complex wines. (0261) 413 1100.
Cobos s/n, Luján de Cuyo. www.
catenawines.com Valle de Uco
Belasco de Baquedano

Tapiz Nieto Senetiner

Great wine lodge Club Tapiz, high- Located in a beautiful old winery
end restaurant Terruño and an in Chacras, Senetiner was founded
instructive wine tour including in 1888 and makes a great range of
barrel and bottle tasting. (0261) 490 wines and sparkling wines. (261) 496
0202. Ruta Provincial 15, Km 32. 9099, Guardia Vieja S/N, Vistalba,
Agrelo, Luján de Cuyo. www.tapiz. Lujan de Cuyo. www.nietosenetiner.
com com.ar

26
THE WINERY GUIDE
Driving time from Mendoza City Restaurant Lodging Art Gallery

Benegas Lynch Carmelo Patti Chandon

Rich history and richer wines. Lovely Mendoza’s most famous garagista. The original foreign investor, French-
old bodega with lots of character. Carmelo Patti himself is often there owned Chandon has been making
Best Wine: Cabernet Franc. (0261) to show you around (in Spanish). Best great sparkling wines in Mendoza
496 0794. Ruta 60. Cruz de Piedra. Wine: Cabernet Sauvignon from the since the 1960s. (0261) 490 9968.
www.bodegabenegas.com barrel. (0261) 498 1379. San Martin R.P.15, Km 29, Agrelo, Luján de Cuyo.
2614, Luján de Cuyo. www.bodegaschandon.com.ar
Caelum
Decero
Modern, medium size winery on Chandon
the main road to Chile just before Attractive, modern facility with
the mountains and has a nice spectacular views of the mountains
family feel to it. Best Wine: Fiano from the cozy tasting room. (0261) 524
(261)156992890. R.N.7 km 1060, 4748. Bajo las Cumbres 9003, Agrelo,
Agrelo. www.bodegacaelum.com.ar Luján de Cuyo. www.decero.com

Vistalba
Dominio del Plata
Tasting room where one entire wall Ruca Malen
Argentina´s most famous female is a subterranean cross section of the
winemaker Susana Balbo is creating actual vineyard clay, roots and rocks. Excellent food, great guiding and
some rich and complex wines in the Fabulous restaurant. (0261) 498 9400. first-class wines. The pairings over
heart of Agrelo. (0261) 498 9200. Roque Saenz Peña 3135, Vistalba. lunch make for an unforgettable
Cochabamba 7801 Agrelo, Luján de www.carlospulentawines culinary experience. (0261)
Cuyo. www.dominiodelplata.com.ar 5537164 / 4540974. R.N.7 Km
1059, Agrelo, Luján de Cuyo. www.
bodegarucamalen.com
Renacer
Dominio del Plata
This Chilean-owned winery creates Estrella de los Andes
the label Punto Final. Small, modern
operation with tours that include Old World winery and canteen style
a hands-on lesson in blending. Vistalba restaurant with a railway theme. 
Brandsen 1863, Lujan de Cuyo. Simple and authentic.
(0261) 524-4416 or 524-4417. www. Tel. 2612213899 / 2614649190
bodegarenacer.com.ar Budeguer info@bodegaestrelladelosandes.com

Lagarde Modern-style Budeguer winery
offers you the chance to blend
Owner of the oldest white wine in wine and art in a warm and relaxed
South America. Try the hand-crafted atmosphere. Its superb terrace is
sparkling wine made from 100 open until 8pm and it is the perfect
year old vines. (0261) 498 0011 Ext. spot to sip a glass of Malbec enjoying
27. (261) 6815961 San Martin 1745, the sunset. Reservations required
Mayor Drummond. Luján de Cuyo. at turismo@budeguer.com or (0261)
www.lagarde.com.ar 6830749- www.budeguer.com
R.P.N.15 Km 31,5 Agrelo, Luján de
Casarena Cuyo. Mendoza. Kaiken

A beautiful mix of old and new, Dante Robino
this winery mixes tradition and Achaval Ferrer
modernity in an old style winery Founded in 1920, an atmospheric old-
with a super modern restaurant with Modern boutique close to Mendoza style winery with a modernist, light-
splendid views of the vineyards and riverbed. Big concentrated wines. filled tasting room with excellent
mountains. Brandsen 505, Perdriel. (0261) 488 1131. Cobos 2601, Perdriel, view of mountains and vines.
www.casarenawines.com (261) Lujan de Cuyo. www.achaval-ferrer. (0261) 488 7229 Ext. #2. Callejón
6967848. com Maldonado 240, Perdriel. www.
bodegadanterobino.com
Kaiken
Familia Cassone
This rustic 80 year-old winery houses
a new venture by the prestigious A charming, family owned winery
Chilean winery Montes. Big and in a beautiful setting. Try the
powerful wines, destined for fame. jasmine tinted rosé amidst the
(0261) 4761111-14 INT 113 / Mobile pastoral splendour of the owner’s
(0261-153 530 789) /Mobile (0261-155 expansive garden. Anchorena y
Casarena 509 453) Terrada. (261) 424 6301. www.
familiacassone.com.ar

27
THE WINERY GUIDE
Luján de Cuyo Maipú Valle de Uco

Septima Alpamanta Catena Zapata
A beautifully designed winery with Exemplary biodynamic vineyard set Showcase winery designed like
clear views of the mountains and a in the rustic splendor of Ugarteche. a Mayan temple overlooking
large terrace used for sunset wine Ideal for families and nature lovers. vineyards and the Andes Mountains.
events after 6.30pm on Thursdays. Calle Cobos s/n.(0261) 153468398. Rich, complex wines. (0261) 413 1100.
(261) 498 9550, Ruta 7, 6.5km, Lujan www.alpamanta.com Cobos s/n, Luján de Cuyo. www.
de Cuyo. www.bodegaseptima.com catenawines.com

Pulenta Estate Norton

Old-style cellars contrast with a high-
MAIPU
Cool minimalist design and rich
complex wines make this a winery tech production line. Tank and barrel
with finesse and style. Best Wine: tastings,and jug fillings on Thursdays
Cabernet Franc. (0261) 155 076426. are popular with the locals. (0261)
Ruta 86, Km 6.5. Lujan de Cuyo. 490 9700. R.P.15, Km 23.5. Perdriel.
www.pulentaestate.com Luján de Cuyo. www.norton.com.ar

Trez Wines
AMP Cava
Three friends making award Rutini / La Rural
winnning wine in a small, circular Premium wines made from different
winery.Tel. 4877085 y  Well-stocked museum with terroirs but all by renowned winemaker
+54 9 2616854019. invaluable antiques like cowhide Karim Mussi Saffie. Technical tastings
 turismo@trezwines.com wine presses and buckets. Giant and a close proximity to the city make
oak tanks stand in large, cavernous it a recommended visit. Gómez Adriano
halls. (0261) 497 2013 Ext.125. 3602. Coquimbito. Maipú -
Montecaseros 2625, Coquimbito, (261) 4813201/4668048
Maipú. www.bodegalarural.com.ar

Don Manuel Villafañe 25
Lopez Tempus Alba 4

Modern winery in the wide open Popular, old-style winery with two Charming family run winery with
vineyards of southern Maipú. museums on the wine. Restaurant modern facilities and terrace with a
Intense, complex wines. Art offers gourmet cuisine with a view. Carril Perito Moreno 570. tel.
exhibition all year long. Ruta 60 panoramic view. (0261) 497 6554. 4813501. www.tempusalba.com.
s/n, Rodeo del Medio. Maipú. (0261) Ozamis 375, Gral Gutiérrez, Maipú.
5083067. www.dmvwines.com www.bodegaslopez.com.ar.
Facebook/Bodegas Lopez Oficial
Carinae
Finca Agostino
Trapiche Small, charming, French-owned
Elegant and picturesque winery winery offering personal tours and
with ancient vines and walled Argentina’s biggest winery is a well-honed wines. Surrounded by
orchard. Offer superb lunches and mix of old and new, traditional and vineyards and olive trees. (0261) 499
cookery classes. Carril Barrancas industrial, and has the old train 0470. Videla Aranda 2899, Cruz de
10590, Maipu. ( 261) 5249358. www. tracks leading up to it. (0261) 520 Piedra, Maipú .
ncaagostino.com 7666. Mitre s/n. Coquimbito, Maipú. www.carinaevinos.com
www.trapiche.com.ar

El Enemigo

One of Argentina’s most talented
winemakers Alejandro Vigil
opens the door to this colorful and
unconventional boutique operation.
Boisterous, gourmet lunches offered. Carinae
FincaAgostino
Agostino Videla Aranda 7008, Maipu. (0261) Rutini Museum
Finca 697 4213
Familia Cecchin
Familia Zuccardi A family winery using organic and
biodynamic principles where you
A professional, far-sighted operation. can see the entire process from the
Attractive restaurant amidst the beautiful green vineyards to the
vines, famous for its asado-style minimal intervention winery. (0261)
lunches and generous wine pourings. 497 6707, Ruta 60 , 500mts before
(0261) 441 0000. R.P. 33, Km 7.5, Casa El Enemigo reaching Ozamis Sur roundabout
Maipú. www.familiazuccardi.com Maipu, www.bodegacecchin.com.ar

28
THE WINERY GUIDE
Driving time from Mendoza City Restaurant Lodging Art Gallery

Familia Di Tommasso Trivento
Trivento
Officially the second oldest winery in Located in the bucolic splendour of
Mendoza and still run by Argentine southern Maipu, Trivento is owned
hands. Their charming and rustic by the Chilean Concha y Toro. This
restaurant looks onto the vineyard, modern winery has a beautiful deck set
just two steps away. (0261) 524 1829. amidst the vineyards and offers bicycle
Urquiza 8136, Russell, Maipú. www. excursions within the property. Ruta 60
familiaditommaso.com y Canal Pescara, 5517 Maipú, Mendoza.
(0261) 413 7196. www.trivento.com

Finca Sophenia
The Vines of Mendoza

A cooperative of international wine
lovers who have all bought a vineyard
VALLE Modern, high tech winery in
stunning location. High quality
wines overseen by Matias Michellini.
plot each in Uco Valley to make their
own wine with experts. Add to this DE UCO www.sophenia.com.ar (02622) 154-
45622
a fabulous 5-star hotel and Francis
Mallman restaurant and Uco Valley Domaine Bousquet
will never be the same again. Ruta 94,
Tunuyan. (0261) 461 3900 Atamisque Another French transplant to the
Andean foothills of Valle de Uco,
Salentein This Uco winery has some great this sizeable operation produces
white wines, a unique stony roof and high altitude Chardonnay, Merlot
Designed like a temple to wine, this they breed their own trout which is and Malbec. Ruta 89. Tupungato.
ultra-concept winery includes a served in the charming restaurant. www.domainebousquet.com (0261)
modern art gallery, lodge, and chapel (0261) 156 855184. R.P. 86 (Km 30), San 5274048
set high in the Andean valley. (02622) Jose, Tupungato. www.atamisque.
429 500.R.P 89 s/n, Tunuyan. www. com
killkasalentein.com Corazon del Sol
La Azul
A stark, modern winery with big,
Simple, small production winery concentrated reds. Californian
with not so simple Malbecs, a small owned and inspired. Tunuyan.   Tel.
traditional restaurant and now a 0261 659 0043.www.corazondelsol.
beautiful lodge. (02622) 423 593.R.P com.
89 s/n. Agua Amarga, Tupungato.
www.bodegalaazul.com
Andeluna
Salentein
The old-world style tasting room
La Azul looks upon dramatic views of
Diamandes vineyards against mountains.
Probably the best gourmet lunch
Modern, imposing winery with in the winery. (02622) 423 226
magnificent wines, part of Ext 113.R.P. 89, Km 11, Gualtallary,
prestigious French group Clos de los Tupungato. www. andeluna.com
Siete overkooked by Michel Rolland.
Calle Silva S/N. Vistaflores. (0261)
4760695.
O. Fournier
Bodega Masi
Most architecturally innovative
Fascinating Italian job in the heart of winery with rich, concentrated
Tupungato with commanding views wines. Excellent lunches in the
and commanding wines, especially modernist visitor center. (02622) 451 Andeluna
the Amarone inspired varietals and 088. Los Indios s/n, La Consulta, San
unusual blends. Tel. (0261) 156539573. Carlos. www.ofournier.com
www.masitupungato.com Piedra Infinita
Gimenez Riili Innovative, elegant and modern,
Piedra Infinita is the imposing,
A brand new family run affair, part dramatic contribution of Familia
of the exciting Vines of Mendoza Zuccardi in Uco Valley.. Open
project. This is a modern winery in from Wednesday to Sunday. www.
a stunning setting. (0261) 156317105/ zuccardiwines.com.
0261 / 153470392 - Ruta 94 (s/n),
Tunuyán. www.gimenezriili.com
R.P.N.15 Km 31,5 Agrelo, Luján de
Cuyo. Mendoza.

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MAP OF
WINE TOUR
MAIPÚ

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MAP OF
SAN MARTIN
PARK

Mendoza City Tour Route

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