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Class TTsqo
Book -$5 7
Copyrigat^ _

CQFXRIGHT DEPOSHi

DESIGNING
Sack Coats, ^Dress Coats and Ve£ts
<&f

Harry Simons
Technical Editor of The Clofhing,
^esi&ner- & cManufacturer- and
cAuikoT- of "Science of Grading";
"^Desi&nin^ Overcoats" "^Drafting,
;

^Pants and Overalls" and
"^Drafting, Cotton Garments".

Copyright 191^

(Published by

The Clofhing, T)esig>ner- Company
70 FiffK c/4venue, cNew York City°

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^I^^^H^^I^^^^^^^^^^^^^^|^^^^^H^^^^4^^^^4 ^^4^4^^^^^4^^^^^4 ^^^ . t * The drafts are all made by the proportionate * method. 1 This book is the first of its kind ever published. depth of scye. as well as the begin- ner. It deals directly with the drafting method used in wholesale manufacturing. The system described and illustrated has been thoroly tested for a period of over twenty-five years. ©CI. and the reader will get satisfactory results. Extreme care has been taken to simplify the instruction. blade and width of forepart. Author. Every draft can be immediately put into use. The drafts and text can be * used as a ready reference in dealing with the prob- lems of drafting sack coats. such I * * as the strap. Every detail is minutely described. over-shoulder and front * * shoulder point as well as the width of back.A501986 * OCT -I 1918 /'0- /wo \ . * Harry Simons.0 A° * A Mtxoimititm * * m b a a * * HIS book is intended for the experienced designer and cutter. frock coats and vests. using the breast measure as a keynote and * f guide to obtain the various sectional measures. > .

• . 24-25 Stout Sack Coat 26-27 Double Breasted Stout Coat 28-29 Stout Single Breasted Frock Coat 30-31 Pinch Back Coat 32-33 Making Longs and Shorts 34-35 Men's and Young Men's Vest 36-37 Double Breasted Vest 38 Dress Vest 39 Stout Vest 40 Whole Back 41 Manipulation 42-43 Mail Order Changes . 47 Books . 44-45-46 Proportions -. . > 48 Page Three . 48 School 48 Patterns > . . INDEX Construction Lines of Back 5 Drafting Back 5 Drafting Forepart 6-7 Drafting Undercollar 8 Drafting Sleeve 9 Double Breast Sack Coat 10-11 Young Men's Sack Coat 12-13 Young Men's English Coat 14-15 Golf Coat 16-17 Tuxedo 18-19 Single Breasted Frock Coat 20-21 Full Dress Coat 22-23 Prince Albert or Double Breasted Frock Coat .

For the Beginner In drafting these garments. Line E is the seat line. no short measures are necessary. 18 inches is given. found within the pages of this book. Some of Line B is the height of shoulder. For example. it is then graded up and down to the various sizes required. the average student will immediately say 1/6 of 36 is 6 inches. Page Four . dress coats and vests will be Line A is the neck point. A full list of proportions will be found on the last page of this book. When a model is per- fected and passed upon. Diagram A. In the case of drafting 1/6 of 36 is 1/6 of 18 on the sixth scale. The sleeve inseam is figured 18 inches. These are considered the model sizes that are generally used in the "ready-made'' houses. In drafting for wholesale or "ready-made'' concerns. of sack coats. When a sixth of breast is quoted. Preliminary Instruction HE drafts illustrated in this book are either size 36 or 38. except in the case of stouts. The draft on creating longs and shorts explains clearly how the heights are figured. efficient. The proportions are figured on the average built model for the given size of an average height The system here taught will automatically bring out the various sectional measures by using the divisions of the breast measure. which are drafted size 40. ance and fit have been obtained through it for Line F is the length of sack. as it is so simple and Line D is the waistline. where one-half of the actual measure of draft is applied. years. If an overcoat. if the breast measure is 36 inches. which will act as a guide to draft the various sizes. These changes signer or cutter need hesitate to use this system are explained wherever they appear. The only place throughout the system where this differs is on the breast measure. other wise the student will become confused. as the entire It is not a matter of guess or theory. This explains the location of the Every point that is necessary in the drafting measurements taken. inasmuch as only one side of the garment is drafted. the length is made accordingly. It is method is based on the points explained in them the results of twenty-five years' experience with There are slight deviations on some of the othei the largest concerns in the country. Memorizing Imperative Diagram A It absolutely imperative to memorize the is text of the first three diagrams. the best known designers attribute their success Line C is the breast line. to the use of this system. The best possible results as to bal. No -de- drafts to get the desired effects. a knowledge of the tailor square is absolutely essential. All regular sack models are figured on a basis of 5 feet 8 inches in height. as is the usual custom.

which finishes the back. Draw line G-H-F. 16 is 1/12 of breast from 3. K to 3 is 2 inches. is G is half way between and B. DRAFTING THE BACK. Measurements Breast 36 inches. Shape the line 15-18 and then draw the centei Square up from 3 to 7. 17 is % from 16. F the full length. H is %inch from D. 18 is y4 from 17. J is % inch from F. This only applies to the depth of scye. 5 feet 8 inches. D is 17% inches from A. K is1/3 of 18 from C. 2 to A inch. : L to 4 is % inch. Square up and down from 4. Draw line 2-A-G-B-C-D-E-F. points 8 and 9. breast measure. B is Vi of 19 from A. is % 5 is squared from 4. is 14 % from 13. Draw line 14-15. 30 inches in this case. Square out from points 2-A-G-B-C-D-E-F. 1. 15 is % inch from 8. height. is 13 is squared from 12. 12 is 1/6 of breast E 23 inches from A. A Draw line 2-14. figured on a basis of 2 sizes larger than the 6 is y% inch from 5. This you will note is 10 is squared from 4.Construction Lines for Drafting the Back L is 1/3 of breast from H. (Continued on next page) Page Five . % of the total Continue from Diagram from A. which will establish seam and side-seam. C is y-z of 19 from A.

Shape the shoulder and armhole 26-23 and 26-27. 35 is 1/6 of breast from 34. 30 is the length of side-seam of forepart which is the same as 18-6. Draw line 23-15. 17 to X is y4 inch. 31 is 18 inches from 24. 41 is obtained by sweeping the distance 23-30 from 30. / Shape the front and bottom. Shape the gorge 23-35. 44 and 45 are 3 1 4 inches each from 43. 28 is % inch from 4. 34 is squared from 33. Page Six . which completes the draft. 33 is 1% inches from 32. 22 to 23 is 1/6 of breast plus V2 inch. as illustrated. 36 is 2 inches from 35. 37 is squared from 33. % of the actual breast measure. 23 to 25 is y± inch less than 14 to 15. Shape the side-seam. using point 23 as a pivot. 39 is squared from 21. 38 is % inch from 37. 42 is obtained by squaring line 38-39. 29 is 2 1/4 inches from 11. 26 is % from 25. 20 is 2/3 of 18 from C. 21 is 1V2 inches from 20. Square up from 21 to 22. 32 is 2V2 inches from 31. Drafting the Forepart (Conservative Sack) Diagram III The back of this draft is drafted the same as the previous diagram. 43 is 2/3 of the breast from 21. 40 is squared from 37.

Diagram III Page Seven .

Square up from F to K. Shape the bottom part F-J-I-H and see that it has the same run as the gorge D-B-G. Extend the break A-B to C. The leaf of the double breasted coats are made one-quarter inch wider. sack coat are drafted by single or double collars. This can be made in various widths. E to F is y± inch allowed extra for fullness. K to L is Vi inch. G to H is % inch. Draw lines B-C-L and L-M. N to D is 1% inches. this method. Drafting the Under Collar Diagram IV ALLbreasted. B to I is V4 inch. D to E is the width of back. Shape the notch M-H. Draw line K-H. Draw line J-E parallel to A-B. C to K is 2 1/4 inches. the width of turnover. Paae Eight . which completes the under collar. D to J is y± inch.

Draw line J-U. Shape the inseam of sleeve N-P. C to E is l 1/^ inches. UNDER SLEEVE F to Y is 1 inch. which finishes the top sleeve. DRAFT Draw line ADCB. the inseam. Measurements: Size 36 inches: m- seam 18 inches. Square down from S to T. EF is y2 of 18. is D to C is !/4 of 18. Draw lines M-R and N-P. C to B is 18 inches. Square out from points ADCVB. Shape the top sleeve F-K-E. L is half way between A and K. O to S is half of the bottom of sleeve plus % inch. Paae Nine . balanced all sleeve. The ball of sleeve should give about 2 inches fullness on top sleeve and there should be about one each fullness on under sleeve. coming out V2 inch at point G. K is half way between J and A. Shape the inseam M-R and the outside seam Y-T. Shape E-N. S to T is iy2 inches. Shape the outside seam F-H-G-T. A to D 1/12 of 18. to R and to P are l x/4 inches each. C to N and C to M are 1% inches each. Square up and down from point F. V is half way between C and D. which completes the draft. Draw the bottom T-R. Shape the line Y-M. Regular Sleeves Diagram V THIS sleeve can be used to the coat drafts in this book. B to O is % inch. Shape the bottom T-O-P. It is a good hanging.

Y is 18 inches from line B-I. Draw line ABCDEFG. B to E is I6V2 inches. Length 30 inches.) Square up from Z to 7 and down from Z to Square up from L to M. Draw line 8-3. The allowances that are given for the button stand and the method of obtaining the center line is fully explained. B to D is y2 of 19. Shape the armhole 6-P and the shoulders 4-6. Q to U is % inch. 4 to 5 % inch. which completes draft. P is % inch. 20 to 21 is % inch. (For men's make Y to B to J is 1/6 of breast plus V2 inch. 4 to 6 is % less than K to N. Breast 36 inches. waist length. For men's sack is /4 inch. FOREPART DRAFT. which completes the back Waist 32 inches. Draw lines 4-N and 4-2. 3 to 4 is 1/6 of the breast plus V2 inch. B to F is 24 inches. men's draft make this 2 inches. Square out from points ABCDEFG. Square down from R to S. S toT is % inch. There are a few slight T changes which the reader should follow very carefully. Sweep the distance 5-W to point 11. inch longer than P-Q-T. N is half way between M and line C. 11 to L to R is % inch. D to X is 2/3 of 18 plus 1% inches. Draw lines E-I and I-H. 2y2 inches in D to L is 1/3 of 18 plus 1% inches. Y to 20 is 2 1/4 inches. 12 is 1% inches. Page Ten . G to H is % inch. Double-Breasted Young Men's Sack Coat Diagram VI HIS draft is based on the explanation in the conservative sack coat. Draw line P-Q-T. MEASUREMENTS. B to G is the full length or 30 inches. A to B is % inch. Draw line N-P. Shape the side seam T-U-V-W and make it Va E to I is % inch. Draw line A-K. to Shape the gorge and lapel. L to O is 1/12 of 18. 21 to Z is V2 of button stand. (For a this case.) J to K is 1 inch. 20 two and a half inch. is it x B to C is % of 19. Y is 2 inches from line Q-T. 11. 7 to 8 is 1/6 of 18. Square up from X to 3.

Diagram VI Page Eleven .

Draw line A-M. front and bottom.which finishes the back. Waist Length 16% inches. Shape the center seam A-H-I. Q is half way between J and N. 5 is 1% inches from S. the full length. as explained in previous diagram. of 19 Draw lines Y-P and Y-Z. This MEASUREMENTS. K is squared from J. Three-Button Young Men's Sack Coat Diagram VII HIS draft is made for a high suppressed waist effect. which completes the draft. 11 is 2 inches from 10. Take out V2 inch Vee at point 16 and % inch R is 1/3 of breast from H. Shape the side-seam 3-R-U and the bottom U-I. G is 30 inches from B. of 19 Y to 2 is % M inch less than to P. ton stand and make-up. 4 is iy± inches from R. is W issquared from V. Draw the construction line ABCDEFG. the allowance for but- J is 1/3 of breast plus 1% inches from D. Coat Length 30 inches. 13 is 1/6 of breast from 9. 6 from 3 is the same distance as 3 to U. 7 is x/-2 of the breast. A to B is % inch. Q to 3 is % inch. P is % inch from 0. lish effect. Breast Size 36 inches. M is 1% inches from L. Draw line 13-14. Shape the side-seam 3-4-5-6. L is 1/6 of breast plus % inch from B. regular. Page Tivelve . 12 is the guide line. Draw line M-P. C is % from B. the waistline. 18 inches from line C-H. S is squared from R. 10 is squared from 8. O is half way between K and N. Vee at point 15. which gives the garment an Eng- U is 1 inch from T. 9 is squared from 8. which is squared from N is squared from C. is taken off at the point of shoulder from X to Y. This is drafted a trifle smaller than the previ- T is squared from R. DRAFT. lapel. so as to give the coat a military effect. FOREPART. Y 2/3 of breast plus 1% inches from D. D is y2 from B. E is I6V2 inches from B. X is 1/6 of breast plus V2 inch from W. This is a trifle higher than Shape the gorge. F is 22% inches from B. You will note that the wi T back from A to M is made one-quarter inch wider than the double breasted sack. Sweep from point Y to get the run of bottom. Square out from points ABCDEFG. H is 1 inch from E. ous models. 14 is 1 inch from W. Shape the shoulder and armhole 2-Y and 2-3. Y is V2 inch from X. 8 is 3% inches from 7. I is 1 inch from G.

Diagram VII Page Thirteen .

MEASUREMENTS. R is 3 /4 inch from Q. Draw line 2-6. Draw line A-K. N is squared from M. 16 is l x/2 inches from 15. stand and 2 1/i inches for make-up and seams. Z is squared from Y. Two-Button Young Men's English Sack Coat Diagram VIII THIS garment drafted with a very narrow shoulder. Draw line ABCDEFG. The sleeves can also be made a trifle narrower. 6 is 1/6 of breast from Z. than if point were dropped V2 or % inch. Waist 31 inches. Take out % inch Vee at point 14 and V± inch S is 1/3 of breast from H. Vee at point 13. 6 to 7 is 2 inches. Shape the side-seam R-U-V. is The sleeve should be drafted the same as the regular sleeve with the exception that an extra one-half inch should be allowed on the ball of top sleeve in height. W is 2/3 of breast plus IV2 inches from D. L is 1/3 of breast from D. It has a suppressed high waist effect. C is y4 of 19 from B. U is %inch from S. Page Fourteen . H is 1 inch from E. This gives you a lower gorge O is % inch from 5. T-I. from Y. T is % inch from P. than K to 0. 2 is squared from W. Shape the front and bottom as illustrated. effect by drawing line 2-Z on a greater angle J is 1/6 of breast plus % inch from B. J to K is 1% inches. Square out from points ABCDEFG. Draw line O-R. which completes the back. FOREPART. 9 is the length of lapel. D is V2 of 19 from B. Shape the shoulder and armhole 4-3 and 4-R. which completes the draft. Shape the center-seam A-H-I. 3 is 1/6 of breast plus % inch from 2.which is 5 inches Q is 1/12 of breast from M. is A to B is % inch. Breast 36 inches. I is % inch from G. Full Length 30 inches. / Draw line K-O. V the same length from R as T is from R. Shape the side-seam R-S-T and the bottom Waist Length 16% inches. 5 is half way between N and line C. in order to harmonize with the body. Drop shoulder point V2 inch from 3. IV2 inches for button G is 30 inches from B. the full length. E is16V2 inches from B. 7 to 8 is 2 1 4 inches. P is squared from S. DRAFT. 3 to 4 is Yt inch less M is 1% inches from L. X is %of breast or 18 inches from line C-H. F is 22% inches from B. X to Y is 3% inches.

Diagram VIII Page Fifteen .

Golf Coat — Norfolk Effect Diagram IX THIS garment drafted similar to the is lar young men's sack coat. An inch inverted plait is made from 15 to 16. The forepart is split across the chest at line 10 and across the waist from 11 to X. An inch inverted plait is made from 10 to 11. The back is split from M to C and across the waist line from to E. Various style garments are made by splitting the pattern in a similar manner. In splitting a pattern an allow- ance of % inch should be made on each side of the split. Page Sixteen . which regu- is ex- plained in a previous diagram. which hides the seam where the pattern is split at the waist. The belt is sewed down all around.

Diagram IX Page Seventeen .

Young Men's Tuxedo Diagram X THIS draft made similar to is men's English coat. which gives the run of front. From 10 to 27 is 1% inches. The slash pocket is made to sew right into the Vee. An extra % inch should be added to the height of ball of sleeve. The shoulders are drafted rather narrow. which gives the garment a slight chest effect. Line 23-27 is then squared to line 13. with the exception that only 1 inch is allowed for the button stand from T to U. This coat can also be made with a regular pocket. This draft is made for size 36. Page Eighteen . One-quar- ter inch is taken out at point 18. All the the young- allowances and measurements are the same. A one-quarter inch Vee is taken out at the gorge at point 20.

Diagram X Page Nineteen .

Shape the side-seam Y-28. 21 is squared from L. 7 to 8 is ^ inch less than N to S. Shape the back seam of skirt U-23-H. 6 is 1/6 of breast from 5. L is Vs of breast from K. the full length. I is IV4 inches from K. 25 is 1/3 of breast from H. Take out V4 inch Vee at point 20. 24 is 14 inch from 18. H is 37 inches from B. Z to 2 is % inch. Draw line N-S. H to 21 is 1/8 of breast plus % inch. 22 is squared from L. 2% inches from 10. 19 14 inch from 17. Draw line A-N. MEASUREMENTS. and 2% inches make-up. SIDE-BODY. R is squared from P. 13 is y2 inch from 5. 16 is the length of lapel. FOREPART. SKIRT. O is 1/3 of breast from D. Shape the front and bottom of skirt as illus- X to Y is % inch. which completes the back. armhole. G is 23 inches from B. 23 is 1 inch from 22. Shape the top of skirt U-24. Square up from point L. Draw the guide line Q-F. 9 is V2 of breast from line XX. Draw line B-K-H. of 19 the shoulder is made y2 inch more crooked than D is y2 of 19 from B. which completes the side-body. Square up from U. 9 to 10 is 4 inches for iy2 inches button stand J is l 1^ inches from H. V to 28 is y2 inch. 11 is squared from 10. DRAFT. which completes the draft. Square up from 4 to 5. Shape the back seam R-L. pletes the forepart. Draw the bottom as illustrated and shape the Waist Length 16% inches. as it is the basis for all body fitting T garments. S is half way between Q and R. Z is V2 inch from R. Square out from points ABCDEFGH. Shape the seams 2-Z-U and Y-V.) E is I6V2 inches from B. Draw lines 7-S and 7-T. 7 is Vi inch from 6. Draw line L-21. Page Twenty . is Q is squared from P. Draw line 18-29. Square up from M. Draw line 23-H. the regular sack draft. lapel and front. 15 is 2 inches from 14. Fashionable Length 18 inches. M is 1/6 of breast plus V2 inch from B. 17 is squared from 16. (You will note that C is V4 from B. 4 is iy2 inches from 3. 14 is 2*4 inches from break tine. Three-Button Single-Breasted Frock Coat Diagram XI HIS draft should be carefully studied and memorized. N is 1 inch from M. K is % inch from F. Waist 32 inches. Shape the gorge. Draw line I-J. Full Length 37 inches. Draw line ABCDEFGH. 12 is 1/6 of breast from 11. A to B is % inch. Various styles of cutaways and frock coats can be created from this draft. F is 18 inches from B. Breast 36 inches. U isIV2 inches from L. 3 is 2/3 of breast from B. Shape the shoulder 7-8 and the armhole 8-Y. is P is 2 inches from O. w is y2 of breast from D. trated. which com- T is half way between S and R. Draw line 24-25. 18 1/6 of breast from 17. V is % of breast from line U. W to X is % inch.

Diagram XI Page Tzuenty-one .

T to V is 1/12 of 18. 23 to 22 is 1 inch. The author has personally used this draft in a number of manufacturing plants and has seen its reproduction dozens oftimes by others. which completes the side body. 3 to 9 is 1/6 of 18. % Shape the seams 28-W-V. than N to R. 5 to 6 is 1/6 of 18. Shape the shoulder 37 and the armhole 32. Square out from points ABCDEFGH. 28-2 and Natural waist length 17% inches. S is half way between R and 26. D to Z is % of 18. is 2 Draw line 14-16-17. 2-X-18. 24 to 25 is y4 of 18. 15 is 1/6 of 18 from line F. diagram. 5 to 8 is 3/4inch. to P inches. V-18. B to E is 16 inches. Shape the lapel and bottom as illustrated. Draw line 8-9. U to V8 Draw line V-22 and line 22-24. Breast size 36 inches. FOREPART A to B is % inch. Seat 38 inches. Draw line N-R. B to M is 1/6 of 18 plus % inch. R is half way between Q and 26. Full Dress Coat Diagram XII THE following draft which minutely explained is young man's is the previous for a It is similar to the frock coat. full dress coat. Draw line 26-T-23-U. Shape the seams V-22-24 and 20-24. Square up from P to Q. Draw line Q-I. Draw line R-26. 11 to 12is 1 inch. M to N is iy8 inches. X to Y is % inch. 24 is of 18 plus y4 inch. Draw line A-N. Page Twenty-two . B to G is 23 inches. B to H is 37 inches. All the following points should in be memorized. 18 inches. B to D is V2 of 19. completes the draft. 7 to 30 is Vx inch less B to F is nV2 inches. 19 to 20 is y 2 inch. Square up from 4 to 5. SIDE BODY Draw line 20-25. SKIRT 1 to T is Vs of 18. Square up from T. 26 to 27 is 2 inch. D to 4 is 2/3 of 18 plus 1% inches. which Square up from V. Draw line V-20. 10 to 11 is 2% inches. D to O 1/3 of 18. Z to 2 is 1 inch. Take out x/± inch Vee at point 19. Draw line 2-Y and shape side seam 2-Y-18. DRAFT Draw line ABCDEFGH. 15. Draw lines A-I and 1-5. F to I is 1 inch. is 15 to 16 is 1% inches. Square up from 12 to 13 and down from 12 to I to K and 5 to L are 1 34 inches each. V Fashionable waist length 16 inches. 40 to 10 is V2 of the breast. 27 to 28 is inch. MEASUREMENTS W to X is V x of 18. Waist size 32 inches. the length. B to C is Vi of 19. H to 5 is Yi inch. Draw line K-L.

Diagram XII Page Twenty-three .

C to 5 is 2/3 of 19 plus IV2 inches. 12 to 13 is 1/6 of 19 plus V2 inch. MEASUREMENTS FOREPART Breast 38 inches. C to 28 is % of 19 plus inch. skirt. full length. P to V is 2 inch. which Shape the bottom 26-18. The back and side body are the same. 2 to 3 is y4 of 19. J to O is % of 19 plus x /4 inch. Natural waist length I6V2 inches. Prince Albert or Double -Breasted Frock Coat Diagram XIII HERE is very little difference between the single-breasted Frock Coat and the Prince T Albert. Draw lines A-H and H-J.y Draw line 23-25-26. the forepart. Waist 34 inches. is Square up from 8 to 14 and down from 8 to A G is 38 inches. Draw line KABCDEFG. A to B is V4 of 20. A to L is 1/6 of 19 plus V2 inch. Square up from 5 to 12.jour . G to J is % inch. U R to S is inch. C to 7 is 19y2 inches. revere. DRAFT Shape the shoulder 29-13 and the armhole 29-28. Shape the side-seam 28-4-19. N 10 is 1/6 of 19 from line E.% than E to G. 31 to 30 is % inch. % REVERE Draw line M-S. Shape the side-seam 28-4-19. Square up from T to U. 34 to 17 is 1 inch. coming in % inch at H to N % is of 19. Fashionable waist length 18 inches. 10 to 15 is 8V2 inches. Draw lines 13-R 13-29. Shape the bottom 19-22-10. SIDE BODY SKIRT N to 2 is IV2 inches. A to E is 18 inches. which completes the back. The extra allowances that are given for the revere and fullness of the skirt are fully explained. 15 to 16 is 3% inches. Then shape lines 28-3-26 and 26-27. Draw line 10-23. Draw line 23-17. 7 to 8 is 3% inches. is Shape line T-N. Page Twenty. which is y inch longer V to X is inch. Draw line N-O. Draw line X-V-2-27. Draw line K-M. which completes the completes the side body. A to F 24 inches. Shape the front 32-34. point 10. 14 to 31 1/6 of 19. A to C is y2 of 20. U-D is the guide line. which completes C to T is 1/3 of 19 plus 2 inches. Draw line 28-3. Square up from to Y. R is half way between and P. % Square down from 17 to 18. 3 to 4 is y> inch. Draw line S-P. 24 to 25 is 2 1A inches. 33 to 34 y8 of 19. hollowing out 1 inch. 3 to 4 is % inch. is D to H is 1 inch. Shape the front 30-8-15. 31 to 32 is y8 of 19. Shape the gorge 13-35-30. Square out from points KABCDEFG. 17 to 18 is the same length as 23 to 26. L to M is 1 inch. A to D is I6V2 inches. which completes the Allow 1% inches for side plaits. to 10.and 29 to 13 is V4 inch less than M to S. Take XA inch V at point 22. Square up from 2 to Z. K to A is Vi inch. Draw line 34-16.

Diagram XIII Page Twenty-five .

A to B is % inch. Shape the armhole 23-24. Come out % inch from point V to the point of Draw line V-T-20-22. U to 2 is % inch. DRAFT—BACK. Square up from Z to 7. X to Y is 2V2 inches. Shape lapel front and bottom. at the side-seams. dropping V2 inch from point 4. H to J is Vi inch. 21 to 22 is 2y2 inches. using point Square up from 3 to 4 and down from 3 to 11. Draw line 0-2. Square down from 13 to 16. (This is 1 inch for fat. 26 is half way between 25 and U. Stout Sack Coat Diagram XIV THIS draft for a normal Stout figure. Draw line V-T-S. therefore you will note that on a 40 stout we B to N is 1/6 of 20 plus % inch. the front of the waistline. 7 to 6 is 1/6 of breast. the regular waist measure is what we call fat. Draw line 5-26. and the proportions on E to M is 1/3 of 20 plus 2 inches. the regular proportions Draw line A-K-J. Draw line ABCDEFGH. Split the draft at point 19 to pocket at point 17. E to 3 is 2/3 of breast plus inches. 17 as a pivot. Waist 40 inches. Make the notch of lapel 2 1/i inches wide. Then straighten out bottom and fill in side- ter seam of back). and back. D is half way between B and C. 12 to 13 is 1 inch. 1% Take in J/2 inch plait at point 18. Shape the gorge 5-8-9. ft. Breast 40 inches. as required. 5 to 23 is Vi less than 2 to O. equally between the side-seams of the forepart F to K is 3/4 inch. Draw line 5-U. 8 to 9 is 3 inches. B to E is V2 of 21. in otherwords. 37 waist. This will open the Vee at point 4 to 5 is 1/6 of 20. The halance 1/3 of % of the fat is divided Square out from points ABCDEFGH. Full explanation is given as detail should be carefully memo- rized. which is the same length side-seam. which completes the draft. X E to is V-> of breast (measure from the cen. B to H is the full length of 31 inches. The dif- Square up from M to P. M to V is 1/12 of breast. FOREPART. 19. 40 waist. as V-T-S. 2/3 or V2 of the fat is applied at B to G is 26 inches (seat line). 5 is 7 to the proper distribution of fat at the waist. that is. Square down from Z to 12. 1 inch at the front and V2 inch N to is 1 inch. Length 31 inches. Draw line 6-4. have C inches of fat. The side-seams cross at point T. which completes the back. ference between the stout waist measure and M to L is % inch. In figuring the fat. MEASUREMENTS. or B to F is 17% inches. are 40 breast. in Every height. Draw line A-O. R to S is % inch. in. B to C is V4 of 21. a regular stout is 40 breast. Square down from L to R. V2 being applied to the draft. Y to Z is 1% inches. Z to 10 is 2y2 inches. Page Twenty-six . seam a trifle.

Diagram XIV Page Twenty-seven .

A cut is made in the gorge at point 25. as explained in the regular stout draft. 8 is squared from 6. Page Tzuenty-eight . the amount of fat over the regular proportionate draft. Stout Double-Breasted Sack Coat Diagram XV THIS coat stout with is drafted similar to the regular the following exceptions From : 2 to 3 is % inch. The coat is then split the same as the single- breasted and plaited at point 21. The front is then shaped as illustrated. From 3 to 6 is % the button stand or 2% inches in this case. 9 is 1 inch from 8. 5 to 27 is 2%inches. 26 to 25 is 2%inches.

Diagram XV Page Twenty-nine .

V2 of 3 inches is 1% inches. For every inch of fat that is added to the front of forepart the shoulder point at neck is thrown back %inch. SIDE BODY An extra quarter inch is allowed on the width of side body at the waist line from line U to 2. An extra r/± inch is also added at the side seam at waist line. From 18 to 19 a half inch is added for the Vee that is taken out at point 25. % of l 1/^ inches is % inch. This gives the necessary added length to the front of forepart. The skirt is dropped % inch at point 22. Stout Frock Coat Diagram XVI THIS draft is similar to the regular frock with the following exceptions: The draft is made sizes 40. FOREPART 7 to 8 is 1/6 of breast less *4 inch. Page Thirty . 16 to 17 is % inch or % of % of the fat (on this draft the fat is 3 inches. This makes in all IV2 inches added over the normal on the waist. This makes the distance from line U to 2 one- quarter of breast plus Vi inch. The same divisions of proportions are used. You will also note that the point of shoulder is placed on the top construction line and is not dropped Vi inch as on the regular frock. making the distance from I to Q one-eighth of breast plus y± inch and the distance from H to R one-quarter of breast plus % inch.) 18 is squared from 17. so as to hold in the front edge. which is added from 16 to 17. instead of 36. This explains the pre- vious measurement. BACK The only difference in the back from the regular frock is that an extra x/± inch is al- lowed at point Q.

Diagram XVI Page Thirty-one .

From 19 to 15 is 1 inch. which is illustrated by lines 15. 23-24-25. From 19 to 20 is 8 inches. I take out 3A inch. At point 22 in the forepart I take out a three-quar- ter inch Vee. To get the round effect for the lapel. I make an 8-inch curved Vee. which is illustrated on a previous page. 20 and 19-20. At point 26. the pinch. From 15 to 20 is 8 inches. This Vee should come out % inch back of the crease line. crease lapel line effect. 19 is 1 inch forward from point W. so that the lapel should not be too thick at this point. This gives me totalling in all 1% inches. Paye-Th irty-two . There are three corded seams. This dia- gram also illustrates how to get a curved. an extra allow- ance must be made at the waist line for the goods that is pinched or gathered in. The proportions of this draft are similar to the regular young men's garment. Any style lapel is then made as illustrated by lines 16-17-18 and 21. This allows for two seams and for the quarter inch extra for crease seam. of inch% each. You will note that I square down from L to S and then I draw a straight line from R to S. In creating a pinch back. From 15 to 16 is % inch. The amount of suppression at the waist can be regulated according to the wishes of the draftsman. Pinch Back Sack Coat Diagram XVII THEideafollowing as draft give the reader an how the pattern to will manipulated is to obtain a pinch back effect.

Diagram XVII Page Thirty-three .

from armhole notch through shoulder point.) Reshape the side-seam and raise the pocket Shorten the waistline as indicated from E to % inch from XX to 41 and XX to 42. For all heights for every inch over or under Reshape the shoulder and gorge as illus. in in height. (This amount can vary according to the O to 34 is y4 inch.A Lower the length of coat from R to 22 and S From C to 3 on point of shoulder give A X inch to 23. 5 feet Reshape the outside seam. 4 in. to 10 are % inch each from C to 8 y4 inch. from A to 2. For the short. Shorten the coat 1 inch from R to 37 and S (This is practically the same as the long. in height. in height and the long is figured for a 6 ft. shape the ball of sleeve. sleeve y4 inch as the case may be. H to 5. H and H to 12.) armhole 8-32. SLEEVE. which are 1 inch each. M to 18 is y4 inch. onlj to 38. 5 ft. 8 in. inches. BACDEFGH the normal. LMNOPQRSTU is the normal forepart. you will note that from A to 9 and B to 36. % Lengthen the coat from F to 6 and G to 7 twc Mto 32 is Vi inch. 8 in. . lengthen or shorten the trated. the normal. or V2 the distance that the height is raised Reshape the side-seam. Lower the pocket V2 inch from XX to 27 and At the waistline lower 1 inch from E to 4 and XX to 28. is Lower the waist 1 inch from Q to 20 and T To raise the height to 6 feet give y% inch to 21. Z to 26. from B to 1 and to 2.nch from V to 24 and re- 14. 8 inches. which are 1 inch each. The short is figured for a 5 ft. This amount is exactly ^4 inch for To make a short 5 foot 4 you do the opposite every inch in height the man is above the across the shoulder and neck as in the long. Shorten sleeve 1 inch from Y to 39 and Z tc N to 17 is y2 inch. to 19 is Vi inch. that is to lower the height to Shorten the waist 1 inch from Q to 35 and T a 5 ft. Page Thirty-four . Shorten the garment from F to 13 and G tc For long. but it should always be at least 1 inch Reshape the shoulder and the gorge and the longer than the normal. Draw line L-18. which is figured The changes herein illus- ired on a basis of 5 ft. 4. Reshape the side-seam. N to 31 is inch. style. normal. V to 30 and For a short. 5 ft. 40. Lengthen the sleeve 1 inch from Y to 25 and FOREPART. the change is made in the opposite direction. take off y4 inch from To make a long or a 6-foot draw line L-N-17 reshape the ball of sleeve W-30-L. which are 2 inches each. Making Longs and Shorts From Regular Block Diagram XVIII MAKING trated are Longs and Shorts from the Normal Block Pattern made from the normal block pattern. BACK. 8 in.. add y4 '.

Diagram XVIII Page Thirty-five .

7 to 10 is the same distance as I to A. S to 7 and S to 8 are % inch respectively. H H to inch. Waist 32 inches. Square out from points ABCDEF. M is half way between P and J. Length 26 a/2 inches. to W. R to S is 1/6 of 18. Shape the neck A-I. Page Thirty-six . Shape the center seam B-C-G. I is 1 S to 6 is Vi inch less than 5 to I. 10 to 9 is 1V± inches. Shape 14 to isO 1 inch. 11. Shape the side seam M-N-Z. D to T is 18 inches. 15 to N is y2 of 16. length of vest. L is half way between K and 13. the neck 9-8 and the front U-16-V-3. B to C is % of 19. Draw line I-L. B to D is V2 of 19. The points are somewhat similar to those used in the sack coats at many places. MEASUREMENTS FOREPART Breast 36 inches. Square up from P to R. T to U is 2% inches. G to 14 is V2 of 16 the waist measure. Shape the bottom Z-3. A to B is % inch. A-I plus S-W is V-/2 inches more than the B to H is 1/6 of the breast plus V2 inch. Draw line ABCDEF. B to E17 inches or the waist length. Single Breasted Men's and Young Men's Vest Diagram XIX HIS diagram should be memorized. Shape the armhole 6-M. Drop the point of shoulder x /± inch at point S. Square up from to I. Draw line 5-M. D to P is 2/3 of 18 plus 1% inches. which completes the back. E to G is % inch. as it is the basic draft on which the system for draft- T ing vests is founded. Draw line S-U. is Square up from U to Y and down from U to E F is 3 inches. Draw line M-N. Square up from J to K. For a young men's vest take out Vee at point Shape the bottom. DRAFT Draw line S-L. 16 to 15 is iy2 inches. D to J is 1/3 of 18 plus 1 inch. The other vests are created with slight variations. Draw line M-0-4.

Diagram XIX Page Thirty-seven .

This makes the bottom x button spacing 4 inches apart. the previous diagram. inch longer than the regular vest. It also gives the 9 is h inch from 8. ance taken out in the Vee at point 17. The draft is made similar to 10. BACK 7 is 2V2 inches from 4 or V2 the desired but. Five-Button Double Breasted Vest Diagram XX THIS draft illustrated exactly how to create double-breasted vests. which is explained in 10 to 11 is V2 of the waist. Page Thirty-eight . to 4 is The length of this double-breasted vest is V2 2*4 inches. reader a good idea of how to get extra 10 is squared from 4. extra V2 inch is given from S to T for the allow- 8 is squared from 7. 6 is squared from 4. In this case it is 5 inches. which is the breast measure. suppression at the waist by inserting an extra The waist measure is figured back from point Vee in the back. 5 is squared from 4. an extra^inch be- ceptions : ing allowed for the Vee. 12 is l 3/4 inches from 11. The only difference in the back is that an ton stand. the single-breasted vest. with the following ex. From 3.

Then shape the In order to get the run of the front. Page Thirty-nine . use the collar 8-9-X. Full Dress Vest Diagram XXI THIS vest drafted similar is young men's vest. Shape length. is 2 inches. which to the regular breast measure illustrated by point U. Waist. each. the front T-U-X as illustrated. 12 to T and 12 to 8 are % inch ments: Breast. Measure. 36 inches. which finishes the draft. V2 of the breast or 18 inches from 14. which is U to 9 has been ex. 32 inches. plained in a previous diagram. 26V2 inches. Point X is located at the waist line.

or 2/3 of V2 of the fat. Line C-G to Y is % of 40. completes the draft. 40 : inches. E to G is % inch. Stout Vest Diagram XXI THEas the stout vest stout is drafted somewhat similar to the regular vest. B to D is %of 21. is Shape the center seam. Draw line A-K. Reshape the bottom and side seam. Split the pocket through from 20 to 21 and G to P is V2 of 20 plus 1 inch. M to N is Vh of 20. Square up from J to K. Draw line O-P-Q. Square up from L to M. DRAFT FOREPART Draw line ABCDEF. 2 to U is *4 less than K to 4. T to U is 1/6 of 40. U to W % inch. Draw line O-K-Q. Shape the shoulder 2-U and the armhole 2-0. waist. Draw line A-G-H. U to X is 1/6 of 40. The fat is figured the same sack. 29 inches. Draw line U-N. Square up from S to T. Square up from Z to 3 and down from Z to 7. A to B is %inch. D to L is 1/3 of 20 plus 1 inch. which completes the back. 12 to 13 is y2 of waist. 40 inches. it should be divided in the same proportion as explained in this draft. Draw line X-Z-5-8. Page Forty . Shape the bottom. B to J is 1/6 to 40 plus % inch. B to E is 17 inches. Square out from points ABCDEF. 6 to 5 is 1 inch.Measurements Breast. D to 8 is 2/3 of 20 plus 1% inches. When there is a greater amount of fat. Draw line K-N. 7 W to 17 the same as K to A. length. B to C is V4 of 21. plait y2 inch at point 9. is Shape the front as illustrated. L to O is V2 of L to S plus y2 inch. Y to Z is 2V2 inches. B to G is 20y2 inches. J to K is 7 /s inch. 13 to R is IV2 inches. which Shape the bottom.

so that the top and bottom point of the center seam will just touch the line B-D. Page Forty-one . Place the back as indicated. Draw line B-D. as described heretofore. and take in a/2-inch plait as indicated by lines 1 and 2. This back can also be used on striped goods with a center seam by not taking off the seam. Then split the back at the waist line from H to C. Reshade the side-seam F-6. This will bring the entire center seam along the line B-D. K-l For a whole back. 2. take off *4 inch as indi. Making A Whole Back Diagram XXII THIS shows how to make a whole back from a seam back. 5 cated by the line 4-5. ABCDEHFG the regular is back. Then add V2 inch from 6 to E. the original length of side-seam.

where the bridle should be held in and where the fullness of collar should be put. C is the front notch. Collar and Armhole Diagram XXIII HIS illustration explains how the shoulders are joined. The tape should be laid flat from E to F. A tape should be placed along the bridle. This will bring the collar to the neck and will help materially in the fit of the garment. SHOULDER The quarter inch fullness that is allowed ex- tra on the back should be left in from Ato B as marked. how the armhole should be taped. Manipulating the Shoulder. This will keep the collar from stretch- ing out along the crease edge of lapel and assist in helping the collar fit closely to the neck. COLLAR The which should amount fullness of collar. as this has a vital bearing upon the fit of the garment. A tape should be sewed from G to I and held short % inch be- tween G and H. ARMHOLE Great care should be taken in taping the arm- hole. It should be held in about *4 inch short between points L and K. as shown by the short parallel lines. as illustrated by line J-K. The collar should be held short between and P. to % inch should be left in between points M and N. E is 3 inches from C and F is 2 inches from C. Paqe Fortv-two . where the fullness of the back T should be left in.

Diagram XXIII Page Forty-three .

Page Forty-four . Making an erect from the normal block. DIAGRAM B The change is made the opposite from the T HESE diagramsfromshow hownormalmake ing shoulder the to a slop- block. Diagram A DIAGRAM A Making a square shoulder from the normal block. FOREPART C to 3 is V4 inch. or Reshape the ball of sleeve. J to 11 is x/4 inch. FOREPART B to 2 is ~y± inch. % B to 4 is % inch. % inch. Diagram B SLEEVE 6 to 7 is % inch. Reshape the shoulder. Reshape the back. Reshape the shoulder and armhole. F to 6 is % inch. DIAGRAM C ciple applies to the various degrees from to % Making a stoop from the normal block. Reshape shoulder front and armhole. Reshape the back as illustrated. BACK A to 1 and B to 2 is Vg inch. rtoop. Reshape the shoulder. % inch on square and sloping shoulders and % on stooping and erect forms. Reshap e the neck and shoulder FOREPART E to 5 is % inch. FOREPART Swing the forepart forward % of an inch. BACK Swing in the back as illustrated. B to 5 is %. These changes are made to one degree. D to 4 is i/4 inch. Mail-Order Changes THE following diagrams explain in detail SLEEVE varying changes used mail order houses. A to 3 and 3 to 4 is %. G to 3 is % inch. % I to 10 is r A inch. D to 4 is y4 inch. F to 6 is yi inch. BACK BACK H to A and G to H is % inch each. DIAGRAM D Reshap e the ball of sleeve. using the notch of armhole as a pivot. Reshape the front. in 1 to 5 is % inch. Q c. H to 9 and G to 8 is inch. A to 3 and 2 to 3 is inch each. The same prin.

Then hollow out under sleeve % inch. FOREPART G to 7 is V2 inch. Reshape the shoulder and armhole. Making A Wide Back [Mail Order Changes. SLEEVES Take %inch off head of top sleeve. as illustrated by line L-F. B to 2 is 1 inch. as illus- trated by dotted line. D to 4 is % inch. 3 to 6 is % inch. making the shoulder to correspond with the shoulder of back. A to 1 is %inch. Reshape the side-seam. Diagram D MAKING A WIDE BACK THIS diagram illustrates the change make in making a back A inch wider than the 3 I normal block pattern. Extend the forepart at front % inch as illus- trated by the dotted lines.five . Reshape the back as indicated by the dotted lines. C to 3 is %inch. Continued on Next Page] Page Forty.

16 to 17 is IV2 inches. to I to M and to L is % inch each. taking off inch at % center seam. A and A to J is V2 inch each. Diagram E Making A Box Back From A Regular Sack Coat BACK DRAW the construction line 1-5. which completes the change on the back. Reshape the neck and shoulder. Then swing out your back % inch from 5 to 4. Draw line 12-17 and 3-5. DIAGRAM E Making a long and short neck. FOREPART Draw line C-A from notch through shoulder point. Reshape shoulder and neck. This brings your back in % of inch from 15 to 16. Draw line 21-20-19 so as to make the side seam straight. using point I as a pivot. and your point 11 will lower to 12. P n ge Forty-six . which completes the change. U O toand H to T is V % inch each. BACK toand H to S is V^ inch each. Reshape the bottom. Measure side seams so that they are equal in length. FOREPART From 18 to 19 is 1 inch.

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"get by" with the regular line of patterns. "Drafting Cotton Garments" $10. §§ THE CLOTHING DESIGNER CO.l V/11CI • Discounts will be made those purchasing the entire set of Books. ing in materially increased business. Y. Under the personal supervision of Harry Simons. overcoats. etc.00. vests.^pllllliilllllllllllllllllllllllllllllll^ Seek Knowledge — Empty Your Purse Into Your Brains ] —Buy Books | w r HEN grading patterns and haven't the time to figure it out for your- you are in doubt as to self. Our twenty different courses take and your cloths cut from these patterns will in woolen. grading STYLISH.00. well-balanced patterns are an ab- and designing. Liberal g g vJ^JGV*l«. who has been connected with several We have special courses for drafts. N. "Designing Sack Coats and Vests" $15. of the best known clothing manufacturers in the country.." in other words. "Designing Pants" $10. then it is that these text books demonstrate their worth.00.00. Why Not You? We teach pattern drafting. but in order to grow and put your business in the front rank it is imperative that you use the Earn while you learn. You may plod along and solute necessity. 70 Fifth Avenue. Write for literature. necessary to give up working hours to To thisend our Pattern Department serves study. or some necessary bit of information slips out of your memory. New York IIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIM . cotton garments. is what we sell you.00. Y.N. "De- signing Overcoats" $15. N. "Grading Book" $15.iillllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllili! ffi Are You Equipped Patterns with a "Punch" To Win Success ? We Supply Hundreds of Manufacturers Con- tinually.00 m Cl'r%^^»'i #» 1 ^"^l-l-^v*»» Proportion Book FREE to purchasers of one or more of the text books. "Men's. Women's and Boys' Proportion Book" $2. pants. etc. .. than the ordinary pattern. Personal instruction or mail courses. you. New York. every pattern is given that cer- men and designers who desire to "brush tain distinctive "touch" which makes it different up. !1l!l|||||li!l||||i!!!::illl||||||l!!|!lil|||!lllllll!i|||l!lllll!IM Harry Simons Designing Studio The Clothing Designer Company 70 Fifth Avenue New York. when you want the snappiest and most stylish salable designs in sack coats. talented designer. it not being product of a high-class. worsted work and cotton give your product that balanced and tailored appearance that will bring repeat orders result- garment trades. 70 Fifth Ave. Patterns with a "punch.