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FrnpriEtar. ->tH=^=H--^r ^« m.n r: "^v\ JUL 16 /bdJ .-' ^^vV-' cur • K. . E>MvC>A-/ f^ M-^ ctual Measure Systeiri I THE! SCIENCE AND GEOMETRY OF DRESS.) mwtoMMitMfi^^ Ei^sjBa . ©jiwisiiiimir^. FAULj MINNESDTil. ST. -.

at Washington.D. . in the year A. A. D. 1883.'y •f^^ . C. by C.:P 4 Entered according to Act of Congress. in the Office of the Librarian of Congress. Devereaux.

and more practical opera- tions not found in other systems. |ROGRESS and improvement characterize every art and science. which has enabled me to make many valuable discoveries in actual measure. the continued success of my Actual Measure System. . it has become necessary for me to introduce a system of draft- ing. and practical knojvledge in fitting the various forms of ladies. I have had an experience of several years in teaching drafting with a tape line. scientific. I am aware that however valuable the science of drafting may be. all of the modern improvements. if indeed it could be said to exist at all. it has steadily grown in the confidence of the public. as well as to introduce a more perfect method. in a harmonious whole. to present the subject more as a science than an art. In short. 1 \W ^^^ within the past few years the science of drafting has re- fc^'' ceived many important additions and improvements. have been suggested and confirmed. It is only within a few years that the true principles on which this science rests. I have spared no eft'ort to present a practical. In the preparation of this sj^stem. it has been my aim to combine and present. It aSbrdsme great pleasure to be able to announce to my former scholars. GREETING. From its inception to the present time. and the public. To merit and maintain this confi- dence. it has by no means been perfect. This system will be acknowledged by all as one of marked superiority. that would be at once practical and theoretical. for perfection is im- possible. comprehensive and complete system. and will be greatly welcomed by the large number of persons who are desirous of acquiring a more thorough knowledge of the science of drafting. I do not claim that this system is perfect.

and the rapid increase in the number of my would be remiss in my duty did I not scholars. DEVEREAUX. I hereby tender my most grateful acknowledg- ments. For this interest and in- fluence so manifested. A. if possible. A. C. that in the future I will strive to exercise. I recognize the co-operation of my former scholars and friends. DEVEREAUX'S ACTUAL MEASURE SYSTEM. While I feel proud of my success. and at the same time beg to ask a continuance of the same. . promising upon my part. greater diligence to promote the interests of each and every scholar placed under my care. who have given substantial evidence of their confidence and interest in its building up and permanent prosperity. Very Kespectfully. C.

The futurE SEals ta all appeals We make in smilES nr tEars i ilnd CDuld TA/E kna'w tliE ^^eeI and "wde — unsEEn things llkE angsl -wings— TliE j That crass anr flEEting years. "wisE intEiitS. If SLEEP nr aT^aiE. a. R.L. U. H.^aV„. Dnr hrightest daySj anr calmest nightSj Tea full af saddening spectral sights Dr flashing jays -wauld hej CancEntratE fEars and hnpES af yEarSj "Would givE nn Ease i the soul from these Would sEEk itself to frEcT % * * :f * * From a Poem by W. ^'1 Events uhseeH. tvIidse sliadE and siiEEn iUtErnatE crass Dur livESi Kind PrnvidEiicEj with.iMM -=B=sgWm3? I . tliEre arsj I -weeh.

My object is your entire professior. I have found among the dressmakers. when." say vou. with talent. the depth of arm size and slope of shoulders. the height and style of darts. and the most of ^] them in possession of good common sense. no doubt. you first fit the figure? To which some have replied: "0. How. and place the shoulder-seam in the most becoming place for each figure? Last. . but uiion her depends. most accomplished and best educated ladies. my fair questioner." So you may have done. if the form is to be made. as vou say. by asking a few plain questions. if you please. "But. let me ask. in a great measure. susceptible of being improved to an almost unlimited extent. Some may be ready to ask In what respect are we behind others of : a similar profession ? This is a practical question. " I fit the figure. and. the perfection of form. to demonstrate to that many ladies should not be fitted at and in no case should the all. I allow what 1 judge sufficient to accomplish the end desired. how do you obtain the width of chest. And first let me ask you. size and height of neck. inasmuch as it is my wish to improve and advance your interests. well. Look. and you shall hear. the pliancy of limb. confident tyro. can you remedy any real or seeming defect. and deserves more than a passing notice. though not least. and the amount of cloth necessary for such a great variety of forms ? How do you get a correct length of waist. ^ -Hic^nTji0^'3 pja^RK^jiH- HE fact is. and what more can you do with your much-talked-of improvement ? Listen. dress be cut to fit an imperfect form. in fact. the width of back. what reliable rule have you for giving to each and every lady a pro- portionable width of dress. to take up the subject. Allow me. To this I am sure you can not have the least objection. some of our -. the entire physical well-being of those who wear the articles of her handiwork. with all the essential points so arranged as to prevent the dress from working up. at the success which now characterizes the modus operandi and unfail- ing certainty of our most scientific tailors in the United States. then. and secure to each customer a smooth and graceful fit? Truly has the dressmaker a high mission to fulfill !Her task is not only the adornment of her lady customers.

easy. and. Again. etc. that. to discard at once and forever. handle the shears and pins with as much facility as you can. Your work-room must at once be neglected. or it may not. will succeed. when im- provements are daily being made in almost every branch of industry. Accordingly when you commence the most arduous part of your duty. and embrace a new. although she may be as ignorant of dressmaking as you are of the language employed by the inhabitants of the moon. no less than to your customers. is pressed for time. without first using a chalk line. The fact is. which is as plain as daylight) is. The secret of this (if that can be called a secret. and you owe it to yourself. not unfrequently. while you go through the tedious process of fitting her dress. ruinous and uncertain mode of fitting. as you are. your indifference to progress might have been excused. THE SCIENCE AND GEOMETRY OF DRESS. Some forty years or more ago. it some- times happens that a customer. but exceedingly disagree- able to your customers.. rather than adopt a manifest improvement. to say nothing of hers. she takes her position before the glass. the old. which the march of improvement renders ridiculous. all garment-cutting without an actual measure system. and. go-ahead age. than a car- penter would have of hewing a log straight. amounts to mere speculation. which it would be impolite in you not to answer. she instructs you where to cut. tedious. in this progressive. investing it with an increase of dignity. from want of practice. that she can not. with the exception. therefore. and profit. till you almost begin to doubt whether you are under a course of instruction or whether you are actually employed to cut a dress. the dress may fit. in getting as good a knowledge of the business as you possess. who. etc. It very often happens. the more wonderful it seems to me. a task which takes no little of your most valuable time. You have no more certainty of cutting exactly to the mark. if I err not. : who. Let me illustrate A lady presents herself. and while she indulges in a volume of advice concerning your business generally. wonder-working. that you work without rule. she is quite as capable of making a dress according to your plan. should alone remain stationary. respect. how to pin. the adoption of which will open to your entire profession a new and glorious era. and perfect principle. were content to cut themselves loose . But apart from this. that your lady-patron knows (or thinks she knows) more about your business than you do.. even tailors might be found. by a series of questions. The more I consider this subject. have no advantage over her. that your beautiful and useful calling. your system of operating leads to results not only annoying and actually ruinous to you. At that time conservatism was more fashionable than at present.

but how do they succeed? The forej^art and back of the dress are thrown completely out of shape — it is a little too \ ^ . but then I get along very well !" In all probability the employer would take him for a lunatic." but. I generally cut to fit the figure !" " No particular system !" exclaims the employer. do you ?" "Well. and the only specimen of your cutting that I am desirous of witnessing just at this time. I have no particular system . I do not always make an exact fit. " how do you manage to get along ? You certainly do not work without system. we are in no particular want of one just at this time. in the very face of light and knowledge? What would be thought of a tailor. let me ask. DEVEREA UX' 8 ACTUAL MEASURE SYSTEM. doubtless. if you do your cutting by guess. What system do you cut by?" " 0. ladies. but is it certain to be drawn correctly ? Any one can take up a piece of muslin and pin it over a form. at the present day." And yet we might with the same j^ropriety cut a gentleman's as a lady's garment without system. So can almost any given angle be drawn without system. Ladies. I know they can. to classify those who reject it —perhaps. and he would be very apt to reply: " Well. " whipj^ing the truth. I guess I have no room for you. entirely from those who were not so thoroughly imbecled in their an- tiquated notions. you will. When my sys- tem becomes established among you. Those who have no knowledge of the business can and do practice this method of fitting with as much certainty and seeming confidence as you do. who should enter one of our fashionable establishments. and introduce himself as follows: " Do you wish to employ a cutter here?" " Well. to use a milder form of the same expression.more enterprising members of the trade as "whipping the cat" —a term of contempt. yes. are you not literally fighting against truth when you cling to an error. in view of their ridiculous manner in traveling from place to place. in- vent your own term. but if you are a good cutter I don't know but what I can make room for you. I will not do you the injustice to say that dresses cannot be cut without system. in my opinion. This method of doing business was known among the. and pick up a penurious existence by going around the country. you will call it" whipping the _ kitten. The principle is precisely the same. except the latter is more difficult. There is not the slightest differ- ence. It is true. A. for. is to see you cut stick. C." would be a more appropriate term of reproach. making up garments in the old style. I do my cutting by guess.

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and I may illustrate the truth of this observation by remarking that anything out of its proper place on the human form. It has been kiiown as "The Theorem. that the perfect fitting of a dress has much to do. however. singing the same old stereotype song: " Every lady her own dressmaker. become disgusted with his own tune. With no system whatever. altered her own. It is plain." the " Excelsior. worse than no system." the "Ladies' Guide. and I do no one injustice when I say that it is an utter impossibility to prosecute dressmaking successfully without my system. no other purpose than to for blind the public. and the idea forces itself on my mind. indeed. but with the perfection of her form as well. for that is. which meet us at every turn." the "Improved Model. In this. then. when you are informed that one man has changed the name of his chart three times. THE SCIENCE AND GEOMETRY OF DRESS." the "A.vaunted but worthless " Theorem" should be ' \ . not satisfied with changing its name. that the for- mer is not at all unlikely. B." I believe he has. and for fear that the much. a traveling agent. like a superannuated mocking-bird. For about forty years this worthless method has been kept by the most before the public only extraordinary exertions on the part of its projectors.traveled through the Statesand Canadas for £fteen years. Hence we find dresses cut in all sorts of shapes. that those who teach them are either dishonest or utterly ignorant of the true principles of garment-cutting. You may suppose that such de- fects as I have mentioned cannot possibly affect so grand an organism as the human form. tM . if I may so term it. and you will. agree with me. acts. no doubt. teacher of the catch-penny humbug. which has come to my knowledge. if anything. as a negative power at that particular point. you are mistaken. and the model taught in one easy lesson. by whatever name they may be called. contracted chests. not only with the ease and comfort of the wearer. perhaps. Physiology will bear me out in the assertion that the slightest causes will some- times produce the most disastrous results. You may. They are all the same in principle. or one equally correct. think I am making too much of this matter. To keep it from sinking into merited oblivion at the start. loose here. C. He and his agents have ." and I know not how many other names. In one case. you are like a navigator without a chart and with the "chart" system you are equally uncertain. but it has never been altered in anything else but its appella- tion. a little too tight there —a little too wide and a little too narrow elsewhere —too long in one place and too short in another. the result of which is — the great number of imperfect figures round shoulders. it has been introduced and re-introduced to ladies under as many aliases as the pickpocket assumes while traveling on a professional tour.

10 a A. explained to you desires. It is scarcely necessary for me to dissect this nonsensi- cal chart. that it is it is all faulty — it possesses not a redeeming quality. Its inutility. who is at all familiar with the chart. that the former is a more difficult task than the latter. as things now which calls exist. Having given garment-cutting the closest attention for the last fifteen years. the lines of the human form vary as much as do the lines of the human countenance. despite its alias. by being seen in her company. I think I may. recognized. — self in readiness to prove the assertion —that. purposes and thus. and it would puzzle a greater philosopher than the world has ever yet known to discover the utility of that chart which would cut the same style of dress for three ladies of different shape. accuracy. ladies. that it has now been abandoned altogether by every lady laying claim to excellence as a dressmaker. has become so transparent. requires as much system. and store away in your memories the truths and suggestions herein contained. that for the least consideration is best attended to. indeed. were I to write a lifetime. and that which is of vital importance is overlooked al- together. the cutting of a lady's dress properly. nor is this the only objection to which it is liable — dresses which are cut by it never give evidence of that finish and beauty which should characterize the handiwork of the true artist — — they are invariably stiff' and awkward more like the work of a rough hand than like that of a consummate mistress of her art. and experience. knows that it has this fault. as the cutting of a coat —indeed. Every lady. I feel that I could not say enough upon this subject. Having my views. lay clnimto some knowledge of the principle. I do not think I should be far astray if I should say. but that you will listen even to the echoing remembrance of^this address. Such being the case. for the and general welfare. how can we expect to see a lady's dress fit prop- erly when it is cut without any regard to system ? The fact is. she adopted a French prefix. DEVEREA UX'S A CTUAL MEASURE SYSTEM. and traveled as Madame Lamartine. . without vanity. I con- improvement of your art clude by fervently hoping that the hints and advice thus given will not be thrown into the forgetfulness of oblivion. and I boldly assert and hold my. As I have before said. It would answer no purpose and exhibit to take it apart. it piece by piece in all its glaring deformity — enough to say.

— Depth of arm size. an addition of from one to two sizes to the bust. Second. —Waist measure taken tight. j^^^ See Diagram No. to the straight line. Place the center of the tape line at the back of the neck. B. to too loose a tight. — N. and under the arms straight to the center of the back. 1. . — Measure across the back. Ninth. and their correct application in drafting. Third. from arm to arm size size. loose. and from there to the wrist. Eighth. It should be understood that the measures are taken the same for tight. from arm to arm size size. then under the arms and straight to the center of the back . or half loose garments. snug but not * tight. Sleeve measure. — Bust measure over the largest portion of the bust. — Hip measure should be taken eight inches below the waist. . — Eleventh. then measure from the neck down the center of the back. and from two to three to the waist. and tight. passing the end of the line in front. —This measure should be carefully and accurately taken. as much of the graceful appearance of the dress depends upon having the darts the right height. — Measure across the front. Remember that the fit of the garment depends on the accuracy of these measures. Fifth. with the arm thrown back to a straight line with the shoulder and bent nearly to a right angle. will me^vsiire cause too much fullness on the shoulder near the neck. DIl^ECTION? F0^ WKW MWnW- —Neck measure be taken First. Seventh. Fourth.—The length of the waist down the back Sixth. — For the height of darts. placing the end of the tape line at the waist and passing it up to the largest portion of the bust. taken from the center of the back to the elbow. N. — Length of the waist down the front. measure up the waist. Tenth. B. or the size of darts for fullness to correspond.

—Measure from the waist. down the edge. — Locate a point at one-half the depth of arm the size. Remarks. goods. — Place the end of the rule at the edge and even with the hip and establish a point at hip measure in scales D. the proper manner is to locate all of the points for a garment on paper.— Measure from the line drawn. —Measure out on the second line one-fourth of an inch Eighth. however. Second. after the garment is drafted on })aper lo use a tracing wheel. Third. Seventh. size. pew m wM^ n bhck. using the rule as a guide. Eleventh. and Fifth. — Place the end of the rule to the and length- first line. — Draft right angles from the several points located on the edge. — should be distinctly understood that no hem or It seams are allowed by the system for any kind of a garment. the length of the waist down the back. Sixth. line. E. then take off the paper. seams. and cut outside of the tracing. It is advisable. G. — Place the end of the rule on the edge and even with the waist and establish a point at waist measure in scales B. locate a point for hip measure. T. then place the paper on the lining. —Measure from this down the edge the depth of arm line. 0. down the edge. . the same as in drafting. leaving a sufficient amount for . Fourth. tracing all of the lines through the pai)er on to the lining. using the curved rule. and establish a point at neck measure in scale number sixteen. for slope of the shoulder. It is intended that the garments should be basted directly on the lines drafted by the system. Ninth. Tenth. line. wise the goods. — Draw a line forming a right angle with the edge of the First. eight inches. But for persons experienced in drafting. more than one-half the width of back. J «^ ^ A . but using a tracer instead of a pencil. — Measure out on third line one-half of an inch more than one-half the width of back.

and draft the shoulders. and swing to the outside point on the hip line. then swing to the shoulder point on second line. and swing tlie rule to the second point on the waist. A . swing the rule to the point on the second line. • Ninth.— Draft a straight line from the point on the waistline first to the edge at the third line. Eighth. and swing to the point on the hip first line. at line. HO^VV TO D^KT ItJIE eaTLIfiEg 0E TpE B^CK. place G at this point. — Place A on the rule the point on the waist at first line. —-J'lace B on rule at the outside waist point. Second. and draft the arm size. Fifth. —Place C on the rule at the point on the first line. Fourth. Third. Seventh.) First. and swing to the out- side point on waist line. (SEE DIAGRAM NO. Sixth. and draft the side form. — Place B on the rule at the second point on the waist line. then swing itthe second point on the hip to line. and swing to the edge. — Establish a point a little below the center of the arm size. Place— K on the rule at the point on the third line. at the hip line. — Place C at the point on third line. 2. — Place A on the the second point on the waist rule.

Third. proceed to draft the outlines of the upper portion of the front as follows: See Diagram No. and draft the shoulder. — Eighth. —To draft the neck. Second. — Place the end of the rule at the line and even with the edge ot the goods and establish a point at the neck measure. First. Sixth. one-half inch more line. Fifth. then swing the rule to the width of chest on third line. Seventh. then swing to the point on the second line. Second. in scale number 17. ^ : A . and establish a jDoint at the width of chest. —Measure from the down the edge. than depth of arm size. on the rule. then deduct the size of the back on the third line. Having these points established. omitting the second. 3. to the shoulder point. in size scale number four.) and swing the rule to the point on the first line. Fourth. place J on the rule at the third point on the edge.-^Place C on the rule at the point on the first line. pow m ])ww n BWW- —Draft a line forming a right angle with the edge of the First. Place the end of the rule on the edge even with the third line. in scale number three. to the shoulder point. — Draft from K. (the i:)oint that has no line drawn. —Measure out on the third line one-half the size of the bust. corresponding wi*h the depth of arm size. Fourth. Ninth. goods. and draft. in scale number two. one-half inch less than the length of the shoulder on the back. and establish a point. — Establish a point at the neck measure. — Measure from the neck point on the line diagonally first to the second line. located on end of rule. allowing a fullness of one inch. — Draft right angles from the and third first on the jDoints edge. — Place the number in scale number one. —Establish a point at one-half the depth of arm Third.

the second dart should be one-half an inch higher than the first. amount that the back measures under the arm. or the amount required for an under arm dart. then swing rule to the end of arm size curve. see Diagram No. jui . — Place the point of rule I at the outside point on the third line. The height is determined by the measure taken from the form. and establish a point at hip measure. the length of waist down Seventh. the upper points of the darts being the same distance from the front that the center of the darts are at the Avaist. casting out the size ofthe darts. — Place C on the rule at the outside point on the waist line. — Draft waist line. one-half of the actual waist measure. Eighth. THE SCIENCE AND GEOMETRY OF DRESS. Next place the end of the rule at the edge even with the hip line. — Measure from the outside point on the third the line. and the amount required for the under arm dart. Then draft the balance of the outline of the front. and draft a line parallel with the waist line. 15 Fifth. eight inches. The usual size one and a half inches. For drafting the form of darts. Ninth. FOR DARC3. 3. and the distance between the is darts usually one inch. Tenth. inches. width of back. Second. The size of darts vary from one. — Measure down from the waist. —Measure down from the neck. for hip measure. Next establish the outside waist point by measuring out on the the waist line. to two and a half inches.—Measure out from the outside point on the third two line. and draft the balance of arm size. as follows : First. and swing the rule to the outside point on the waist line. The darts are located parallel with the front. and swing the rule to the outside point on the hip line. Sixth. — Place B on the rule at the outside point on the third line. in scale I. the front.

A seam in the middle of the back in tlio waist of any garment. The under arm dart should be located in the center. one and one-half inches at the arm size and two and one-fourth at the waist. The size of dart at the arm size. B. the fullness arising is from large darts must be carried away in basting the goods to the lining. can also be taken care of if a person understands the science of basting. The forms from the arm size to the waist are drawn straight. 3. and when a person is very hollow in the back. to give them a swell bust. as some prefer. between the second dart and the outside waist point. is determined by the amount allowed when drafting the arm size. for instance. with prominent hips. —It is often necessary when a person has a very large bust and a slender waist. N. small waists. it is advisable to draft them a diagonal under arm dart. Tf)G UDDCR ARm DARC. the fit is very much improved by taking it up a little near the waist. The lower point of the dart should be carried toward the back. instead of on the next seam back on the outside of the front. when the design of the material not in a stripe or a figure. the fullness arising from one large dart. and gives a rounder effect to the figure. DEVEREA UX'S ACTUAL MEASURE SYSTEM. which can be easily done if well understood.16 a A. is a great improvement. one-half inch. which throws the fullness over the hips. drawn as per Diagram No. ^ d . but if so. The forms below the waist. when persons have large busts.

and establish a point at size of arm size in scales No. Sixth. —Measure the arm First.— Draft a right angle from the first point. and establish a point at the size of the arm size in scales No. If side plaiting is used for trimming the sleeves. and establish a point at the size of arm size in scales No. the measurement used is drafting the sleeve. The outside of the sleeve should be cut precisely the same size and shape of the lining. — Place the end of the rule at this and lengthwise line. and even with the second line. If there is a figure in the design. 8 and 14. 14. where it joins the out- side. JI0W m DPFT n Dr(E^g gliEEYE. line. of the dress that the sleeve size to is be used and that for. and establish a point at the size of arm size in scale No. Fourth. then pass the tape line down the edge of the goods to the length of the elbow. — Draft a line forming a right angle with the edge of the goods. then open the edges and press the seams. — Place the end of the rule on the edge. of the goods. be careful not to cut the goods wrong side up. place half of the width of the back at the second line. being careful not to cut two pieces alike for the same sleeve. The upper part of the sleeve from the elbow should be cut straight with the grain of the goods. 7. Ninth. — Seventh. omitting the second. Fifth. . After the lining is basted to the goods. it should be re- membered that one-half must be reversed. — Place the end of the rule at the edge and even with wrist Tenth. 7. Eighth. — Place the end of the rule at the edge of the goods. stitch the outside seam first. and even with the first line. and then to the wrist. The under part. — Place the end of the rule at the edge and even with the elbow. Establish the length of the sleeve. or the plaiting will be fac- ing the front on one side and the back on the other. Third.and establish a point at size of arm size in scales No. — Draft right angles from these points. 12 and 15. for Second. 6. may be slightly curved. 5. 9. which may be easily done where there is a right and a wrong side to the goods.

— Fold the darts from the center. — Draft a line from the outside wrist point.to second point on elbow line. — First. — Draft a straight line from the point on the second first line. then swing to the third point at the elbow. — Baste them up directly on the lines drafted. Ninth. Place I on the rule at the outside point on the second line. outside. — Commence at the bottom of the waist and baste up to the neck. and swing to the third point down the edge. observe that it is carefully matched. — Place E on the rule at the point on the first line. of dress goods. Place H on the rule at the third point down the edge.— Draft from D on the outside elbow point. Sixth. If the design of the material be in plaids or stripes. Place B on the rule at the outside point on the second line. Seventh. bringing the outsides together. then swing to the first point on the second line. —Baste down the center of each dart and around the Second. Third. to the firstpoint at elbow. — Draft from B at point at elbow. commencing with the fronts. For Front. fasten the lining to the outside. first Tenth. Fourth. — Draft from C at second point on elbow to line.) First. by carefully basting around the edges. — Fourth. to the outside wrist point. — Second. to one and one- half inches above the wrist line at the edge. . — Draft from D at the third point doAvn the edge. to the edge at wrist. Eighth. mmmom for bastidg. — Third. Fifth. Sixth. and swing to the point on the first line. first point on wrist line. 2. (SEE DIAGRAM No. — Beginning at the waist join the parts accurately together up the center of the back. CO DRAFT CP)G OUTLIDGS OF t^E SLGGYG. remember- ing that the least discrepancy in basting at this part of the garment would be perceptible. Fifth.

. In putting the garment on. Anything that prevents the outside from lying smooth and even on the surface. detracts from the desired effect. THE SCIENCE AND GEOMETRY OF DRESS." or "dress goods. much of the artistic appearance of the garment depends on the manner in which it is fitted to the form. In such cases the buttons should be placed along the curve a sufficient distance from the edge to prevent the fronts from sj)reading." used in the rules of this work. the bias edge should be slightly pulled. — Baste the front and back shoulder seams together. to piece the lining crosswise the goods. and if they agree in every particular. It will be observed that the term "goods.. — Remarks. is designed to indicate the material on which garments are drafted. When a bias and straight edge are brought together in any part of a garment. at the same time stretching the front to prevent wrinkles. commencing at the arm size. com- mencing at the neck and basting to the point of the shoulder. yet it is understood that the scholar ^. require the front curved. a word of advice will be in order. fiat surface. at the same time freeing the under garments of all wrinkles. should be placed low down on the waist. or with large busts. it should be done by laying the edges one over the other before stitching. The basting completed. thus making a smooth. each separate part of the garment should be compared with the measure taken from the person. and all of the necessary precautions strictly observed. corset and other appendages. 19 Seventh. Eighth. Baste the side form seams. If any piecing of the lining is necessary. which will not be the case if seamed in the usual way. — Ninth. etc. and baste down. but if any dis- crepancy is apparent attend to this first. First see that the padding (if any is used) is in the proper position. to stretch. proceed to stitch the garment up. otherwise the straight side when stretched will show wrinkles. the terminus of the skirt. As much of the graceful appearance of the dress depends on the underwear. and all the seams well pressed.—Baste the side forms to the back. Ladies standing very erect. Then commence at the bottom of the waist and button upwards. It is an error into which some professionals have fallen. An ill-fitting corset is certain to produce a worse fitting dress. giving the amount of fullness necessary at the different points. a smooth and artistic fit will be the result. they having a ten- dency commence at the bottom of the waist and baste up. meanwhile arrange the bust so that it will fall gracefully over the form then button from the waist down to . This being done. The bands of the skirts.

Sleeves that have no seam down the back may be cut either straight or bias down the back. owing to the width of the goods. of course this will be impossible. and a pair of shears. should use a suitable quality of paper. the bias part will come at the wrist. but it is highly desirable. For double-breasted garments be careful to have the thread of the goods exactly straight down the middle of the fronts." as is always the case when they are in the least bias. The same rule applies to overskirts and trains. This can almost always be accomplished by moving the goods a little one way or the other. cut the outer parts so at any rate. Whenever it is essential that anything shall be cut bias. This is not always possible. Cut the fronts lengthwise of the material. but in any event be sure that the stripes or plaids match. and down the back also. in connection with which (as as light manilla. flounces. and do the best possible with the under parts. and straight on the front edges. if there is no seam. The way of cutting the material has more to do with the fit of the garment than is generally supposed. so that if they are at all curved. by placing the middle of the pattern of the back and front widths to a fold of the goods. DEVEREA UX'S A CTUAL MEASURE SYSTEAf. In cutting goods that are figured. side forms and back pieces to all fitted garments. or front.) should also be procured a No- 3 Faber lead pencil. while under instructions. The shoulder pieces sometimes called sleeves to dolmans and visites should be cut exactly straight across the shoulders. &c. the back being curved a little. and the bias sides toward the back. but they are — usually cut straight. according to the fancy. This will bring the side forms and the back pieces the straight way and there will be no danger of the side forms of the goods. or not hang nicely. the remainder of the outfit necessary. In cutting striped or plaid goods try to have a perfect stripe or plaid down the middle of the front of the waist. In cutting a skirt. and use special care to have those in the side forms and back pieces correspond. If the goods will not admit of it. such and free from specks. Cut the parts of the sleeve above the elbows the straight way of the goods. — 20 a A. be especially careful to have the grain of the goods in an exact line with the line for the waist. If there is a seam. the front sides of the gores must always be straight. be care- . This applies more particularly to trimmings. or have a nap or pile. be sure and have it exactly so. Always avoid a seam down the middle of the back. the backs of sleeves. or it will draw. In cutting the side gores. of a skirt or overskirt. "drawing.

Many prefer the last- mentioned goods with tlie pile running upward. or a cheaper quality of silk than the dress. Chesterfield. he is neither hot nor timid. — Ability. Always make a calculation before attempting to cut the material. Then cut the skirt. Whipple. it is surprising how many things we enjoy. Don't slash into it. What a man knows should find its expression in what he does. Rochefoucauld. the growth of his fallow nature is apt to run into weeds. Adam Clarke. An able man shows his spirit by gentle words and resulate actions. In cutting a suit. By abstaining from most things. the nap of the cloth running downward. like everything else that is good is its own reward. and courage in adversity. or the polonaise. Seneca. silesia. but cut all the pieces the same way. but we do not always love those whom we admire. and then fall short of goods for the sleeves. —We always love those who admire us. and often confers more reputation than real merit. and labor. the under parts at least. must find in activity his joy. Slmms. temperance in prosperity. Man. and use up the pieces for them. whichever is pre- ferred. and facing it on the outside at the bottom. I have lived to know that the secret of happiness is never to allow your energies to stagnate. The temperate are the most truly luxurious. and the pile of velvet running upward or downward. The value of superior knowledge is chiefly in that it leads to a performing manhood. — Man is an animal that cannot long be left in safety without occupa- tion. that is. especially if you happen to have a scant quantity. . The art of being able to make a good use of moderate abilities wins esteem. Bovee. out of the pieces. if you propose to have it of the material. All flowers will droop in absence of the sun that waked their sweets. and with a little ingenuity you will most likely get your sleeves. Rochefoucauld. —The whole duty of man is embraced in the two principles of abstinence and patience . first cut out the basque and overskirt. but it is now usually customary to make the skirt of alpaca. as well as his beauty and glory. THE SCIENCE AND GEOMETRY OF DRESS. 21 ful to cut all the parts thesame way of the goods. Admiration. with the figures all thesame way. Dryden. matching as nearly as possible in color. at any rate. being essentially active. as a richer appear- ance is thus imparted to the material. Action. leave the facing and trimming to the last. Hillard. Abstinence. if necessary. or trimmings or some other part.

and you give him the mastery of palaces and fortunes where he goes. and should be used as a multi- plier to find the size of pattern desired. however. If the plaiting or ruffle on the figure measures one-half inch. He has not the trouble of earning or own- ing them. measure from the waist line in front the entire length of the skirt (for example. — Address. It is advisable. then divide the 12 by 2. — — — f^W>i i IIOIV TO ENtiREE FROM DESIGNS IN FISHION HOOK. — Adversity. first find the length down the center of front .) — Second. For example: the length of skirt (in the book) is four inches. four inches. dicates the relative proportion between the pattern to be drafted and its representative in the fashion book. which gives you 6.— GreviUe. multiply this by 9. It is often better to have a great deal of harm happen to one than a little a gi'eat deal may rouse you to remove what a little will only accustom . the full length when enlarged. number to be used as a multiplier in finding the the size desired. in the same manner as described in the previous ex- ample. and the length of the waist to be drafted is 12 inches. — Select the figure to be enlarged. For example : if the length of the waist in the book is two inches. next ascertain the length of the corresponding part to be drafted. First. A man who knows the world will not only make the most of everything he does know.) Third. which will give you 4^. and will gain more credit by his adroit mode of hiding his ignorance than the pedant by his awkward attempt to exhibit his erudition. Plutarch. If the garment in the book is not given in full length. you to endure. they solicit him to enter and possess. the actual depth of full size. Prosperity is no just scale. If represented in full length. but only a part of the same. this last number in- 4. adversity is the only balance to weigh friends. Emerson. this multiplied by 9 gives 36 inches. Find the actual length of the skirt to be drafted (for instance. unless versed in fractions. Colion. Give a boy address and accomplishments. — Divide 36 by which gives you 9. . but of many things he does not know. for amateurs to confine their first efforts in enlarging from the fashion book to whole numbers. 36 inches.

— Poult de sole. —Fr. Raw. and the latter more durable. A silk woven like valours. —Fr. the French and EngUsh. Etc. corded . koiz. which are soft and phable. the former being very fine and light weight. used for mourning. A thin lining silk. The above con- stitute the names of the principal brands in general use. and by him imported into France." and others. —Fr. — Marcelaine. first given to a heavy silk which shows a distinct grain running across the width of the goods. Gros Grain. A silk woven loosely in basket or other patterns. A fine quality of plain silk. generally black. Bombazine. B. An open mesh silk-and-wool fabric. SELECTED WORDS AND TERMS USED IN CONNECTION WITH DRESS FASHIONS. Turquoise. —Fr. — Lustrine. Florence. A very thin lining silk of inferior width and quality. the Peruvian llama. Fr. . side resembling uncut velvet. Crepe-Silk. first manufactured in Turkey. Foulard. The terms "Gros de Rhine. —A silk-and-wool fabric. — N. thick. . crape. There are two kinds. gro. Fr. SILKS AND OTHEE DRESS GOODS. — Fr. A lustrous plain silk. and very glossy. with dressing. first made by a Belgravian weaver. soft. — Lousine. A wool-and-cotton 'mixture. A soft. heavier than florentine used principally . —Fr. — Fr. The name silk. — Fr. are trade- marks used to designate the grades or places of manufacture. A coarse. glasse. — A cotton and wool mixture used for mourning purposes. WOOLEN AND IMIXED FABRICS.—Fr. —Derived from paca. . A silk woven like crape. A thick twilled silk-and-wool fabric. Glace. Byzantine. fine-finislied silk. generally in stripes or other designs. for mourning purposes. — Balzarine. Fr. A heavy silk mixture with the cord thrown up on the right Velours. Cachemere. heavy." "Grosde Naples. foo-lard. and very shining. or unfinished silk thin and without gloss. Australian Crape. and designates the difference between the ordinary hard twisted sillis and the newer makes. Taffeta. Alpaca. — Fr. pool de swah. A very glossy thin silk. A trimming silk. Fr.

Mohair. —A coarse fibrous woolen goods. Azuline. from Asia. etc. heavy cord across the goods.—'Fv. Fr.!—Fr. Tamese. similar to all-wool delaines. being an American production. — P^'cal.—Fr. A silk embossed in figures. shaggy sort of dress goods. A cotton goods resembling marseilles. from vellus. —Fr. — A silk-and-wool material . fii'st Pi-que. Damassee. — Cotton velvet. Goods made from goat's hair. wool or silk. peka. also a fabric made from this material Pongee. made in Japan. A cambric muslin. Debege. Vel-ve-tiae. the wool of the merino sheep in Italy. or mixed. A heavy cotton-corded fabric.— Fr. originally made from camel's hair. —Fr. Faille. A cotton cloth. An all-wool twilled goods. as also the beaver brand. azh-u-line. it Percah. Flannel. twilled like cashmere. A cloth of silk or cotton. bearreets. The finest kind of India silk. so named from malice. first imported from Grenada. A kind of goods made with an open mesh. A heavy all-wool corded goods. —A kind of thick silk. but heavier. Vcl-vet. —Fr. Biarrilz. —The long silky wool of the Angola goat. Henrietta Cloth. Goods like a fishing-net in texture. A kind of woolen mixed goods. first Jaconet. —An inferior mixed fabric of silk and wool. Goods made from the wool of the vigon. — Li-mo-sin. kiL . A thin cotton fabric. — Vi-gogne. ' Li-man-sine. Matellasse. Florentine. A rough.—Fr. all Damask. Brocade. Challie. COLORS AND SHADES IN DRESS GOODS. sky-blue. marsalyaz. the threads of which are colored before wea\ang.DE VEREA UX 'S ACTUAL MEAS URE S YSTEM. hav- ing a pile or shag of thread on top. flanuele. Japaneze —A silk-and-cotton fabric. —Fr. first manufactured on the linen looms of Ireland. woven with a thick. —A kind of grenadine. — Fr. A material made with an open mesh of twisted threads of cotton. — Tamise. Merino. made in India. a swan's skin. first manufactured from Mar-seil-les. Cabeca or Cabesse. — An all-wool material. Drap-de-ete. originally made at Damascus. Argent. not so thin as grenadine. A silk manufactured in Flanders. Empress Cloth. A plain all-wool goods. — Silver-gray. —Fr. 24 a A. wollen stuflf. shally. BriUiantine. —This represents a certain brand of alpaca. in France. fal ye. first made at Marseilles. dra-d-ta. A silk woven in imitation of quilting. — Fr. CameVs Hair Cloth. generally silk-warp and wool filling. or mixed. woven in flowers and figures. — Fr. — Gingham. — Grenadine. Hernane. — Fr. — Fr. debazhe. nor so open. Irish Poplin. . —Fr. From azure-blue. —Ca-be-sa. mereno. — A very heavy twilled woolen goods. From moleton. shaggy. Summer cloth. Silk. wool.

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beu-te-i. —Like the mallow lilac. . Canaelite. —A heavy. Cep. and less expensive. Lace. Cassises. Pearl-gray. —The color of cream. BLACK.— Color of ripened limes. lace. Fll-leul. Caroubier. — Fr. gre-per-le. a shade of sea foam. Black. Chestnut shade. a very pale shade of blue. Guipure. Fr. —Fr. understood by many persons to mean queer. first made at Brussels. — Fr. e-cume. a greenish- black. — Fr. 25 Acier. Chambertin. An imitation of antique lace. —Red. Corbeau. Maroon. — Fr. Wheat-color. —A dark chestnut-color. —Fr. Creme. —Fr. coarse quality of lace. — Fr. Frozen sky. From Cardinal Mazarine. Leather. made by machinery. Enfer. A very fine hand-made lace. — Aurore Fr. —Fr. Gris-Perle. A shade peculiar to a cardinal's robe. Llama —A lace made from the wool of the Peruvian llama. — Anemone. —Fr. Mazarine. Mauve. Like the foliage of the carob tree. Bottle. hand-made. Chausseur. Crystal. 1602. A pinkish shade of lilac. Steel. cor-bo. Caoutchouc. Ecume. but made by machinery. Chinchilla. sha-seur.Ceil-Glace. —A reddish-brown. a-sie. Sea foam . A wine red. koo-chook. shan-til-lee.—A kind of coarsfe made from yak wool. ge-pur. — Fr. —Fr. THE SCIENCE AND GEOMETRY OF DRESS. se. Ble. Cuir. Chataigne. kweer. Yak. gla-se.— Kash-i-us. —A black lace resembling Brussels. Cardinal. Brussels Lace. — A mottled-gray. Sepia. Routeille. Leaf-brown. An inky-purple. bottle-green. — Green. — Almost white. an A flame-red. Feuille. — Fr. A deep purple. Fr. Bleu-de-Roi.—A fine lace in imitation of chantilly.—Fr.Vine-color. — Fr. often misnamed thread. Eoyal-blue. India Lace. — Fr. The color of the plumage of the crow. Hunter's green. Chaniilly. sha-te-gn.^-Fr. The color of India rubber. —A silvery-green. fer. —Fr. feu-il. Cascade. — Fr. Prussia Lace. Vert. au-ro-ra. — Fr. THE PRINCIPAL LACES IN GENERAL USE. less expensive and very durable. . a bright blue. a-nem-o-ne. ka-ro-bie.

— Fr. Bias-Bands. hand-made. Straps for the shoulder. made at Mechlin. Smyrna. Beau-Monde —Fr. manufactured by Mons. Part of a lady's dress. —Strips of goods cut diagonally as a finish for garments. Boulevard. Italian Lace. bou-fan. A clasp. — Fr. trinkets. —A lace made by machinery. which are taken beiore birth —Following each other by turns. shatalin. — A cloak originally made of camel's hair. Fair. Bulgare. • Cascade.—Fr. Bouffant. from blon. — Al-a-mode. Bournous.—One of the finest and most expensive kinds. —A fine linen lace much used for trimming underclothing. Blonde. first Belgium now made at Malines and Antwerp. DEVEREAUX'S ACTUAL MEASURE SYSTEM. Ecru. —Plait. be zhoo-try. — A-gil-let. . After the fashion according to the prevailing mode. —A white lace with open mesh and peculiar figures. Old. Cliatelain. A kind of skirt made from so called from felt. Cluny. A band for the hair. NAMES AND TERMS APPLIED TO DRESS. — Ban-da-let. boo-dwor. Boudoir. Alternating. Aiguilette. —A hand-made lace resembling tatting. in Italy. —Ap-pleek. Valenciennes. in France. An expensive white lace. —A short cloak. every pattern of which is a transfer. — Fr. — Fr. Bulletin. A la Mode. An ornamented side-pocket. Antique. A sort of cloak worn by the Moors. Astrachan. An ornament for the head. old style. an immitation of the hand-made. Colbert. shif-fon-eer. Basque. bournooz. —Any lace made from raw material unbleached. Honiton. ' - —Fr. Jewelry. boe-le-var. a Frenchman of some note. k ^ ^ ^ . — Authority in fashion- Bandalette.26 C. Cheffanier. Puffing. — Bretelles. Point-Applique. . . Agraffe. —Fr. Bazar. — Fr. its being considered impenetrable. Point Lace. A. the pattern of which is within the mesh.—A plait whose sides are reversed. — A word used to denote trimming as falling in imdulating waves. —As-tra-kan. A lady's private room. Box Plait. —A-graf. The fashionable world. — Bask. A kind of fur made from premature lambs. —A lace resembling network. — A rich white lace made at Valenciennes. — A beautiful imitation lace so called because . — Anteek. . —Ban-do. Bandeau. An ornament for the shoulder. WHITE. Camlet. Bijouterrie. bo-mond. light. — An expose or edict of fashion report. so called because originated in it Biscay. A lady's work-table. tripple plait. has a it mesh of six sides formed of two threads partly twisted. Colberteen. Camis. Mechlin.

A hundredth-part of meter. Coshime. or the shape of a cross. as the a-leet. Festoon. Connoisseur.— So called because ladies wore them at court receptions. rufi". Cable. Decollette. demi train. A person skilled in anything. — Cruciform. —A Turkish garment. Demi Saison. — Debutant. trimming arranged in this way. Elite. — Scarlet. A coat of mail in dress meaning a kind of basque . — A a trimming for the neck. de-bu-tong. a kind of cloak. —Fr. Texture. Casacque. —Fr. A caterpillar. Crash. —Fr. Eotundity of figure. A coarse imbleached linen. — Crosswise. THE SCIENCE AND GEOMETRY OF DRESS. being about one-third of an inch. Dentile. Under-skirts first made from hair. que-ras. Centimeter. — Frogs. —Fr. — From facere. Costumer.— Goods cut either bias or straight and fringed out on the edges. half a train. Diaphanous. of society. which means hair. ^ . Fr. Emponpoint. A shawl. —From custom. Double Box-Plait. Choice. Fr. kon-nis-sur. 27 Camail. First appearance. ca-sak. A great goat. The back of a dress cut without separate side forms. Any established manner or mode of dress. De Mod en Welt —The world of fashion. a rough. — Fan-Shaped Plaits. Ecarlate. Half. — Fr. — Fr. to make. —Bare. Do-le-man. A fanciful shaped garment for the neck and shoulders. CaZico. — From crassus. usually made of fur. — Lengthened. Caftan. so called from its being imported first from Calicut. den-t-le. . —A Persian vest. Notched. —A box-plait whose sides are folded double. — A garland or waeath hanging in depending curves. — French Back. fish-u. Plaits disposed upon the garments in such a manner as to produce a fan-like appearance when done. — One who deals in dress. or spring and fall. Fraize. Crinoline. being held up by a bearer. — Half-season. Cross-shaped. form. — Fr. Cuirasse. Chale. The head. ong-bong-pwong. Corsage —A dress-body. —Thin transparent. —A short cloak. Ornamental buttons used for fastening cloaks in front. shaggy cord.Cord.— She-nil. East Indies. Diagonal. — Demi. —The line that bounds or terminates the outline of the general Countour. whose peculiarity consists in fitting to the form closely. Coiffure. cof-fure. Frayed Ruffles.— Printed muslin.—A word derived from crino. — A heavy cord. Fabric. — Fishu. — Fr.—Shal. Court Train. Cheneille. elite Elongated.

a garment with the waist and skirt together. IIarmonize.—Fr. or petticoat. — Hamburg Embroidery Embroidery woven in figures by machinery. Modiste. —Narrow embroidered strips of muslin or lace. first made in Hamburg. lese. Gi'iseille. ho-tur. Shining. re-veres. modista. used for ruching. Metre. A smooth.—An overskirt.— Goods doubled or folded to form trimming.—An underskirt.—Dress. Eeversed laid over. from polonaise. A gray woolen cloth. from gallon. A strong. heavy braid. originallytrimmed with quantities of gold cord running down the seams.—Fr. clothing. Trimming graduated in width.—Fr. Gabrielle. griz-zle. a dress maker.28 a A. Lustrine.~To blend colors so that the eflfect will be pleasing to the eye. Jupon. —Large plaits laid one way on the goods. glossy goods. Plisse. DEVEREA UX'S ACTUAL MEASURE SYSTEM. —A garment.—A bustle used for expanding the clothing. Eevers. Jupe. Garniture. from lucre. Tournure.— 'Fr. plaits. plis-se. attire. Jabot. Habilament. — Hermles Braid. Polonaise. Vetement. Galloon. A heavy woolen braid used for trim- ming. Vandykes.— Fr. showy. Kilt.— From titan.—Fr. — Gauze-like. a trimming binding braid. Titan 5)-«i(^.—Fr. strength.Plaits. Height. —Very fine plaits made in the same manner as kilt-plaits.Plaits. . Nail-Heads. trimming of lace and ribljon for the neck. —Indentations or scallops. — Fr. Insertion or Inserting. — A costumefirst made by order of an Italian prima donna. Knife.—A very small button used in trimming.—A French measure of about three feet in length. A kind of dress worn by ladies.—Fr. A dealer and producer of fashions. lAsse. Hauteur. Plait or Pleat. which originated in Poland.—That which embehshes. a mixture of white and black. Originally a braid interwoven with threads of gold.. so called from Hercules. — Graduated Trimming.— A. Gaze. Fold.

size. PCKg nW) Jlh^mm^.-— Measure out on the second line one-fourth of an inch more than one-half the width of back. First. . which will depend on the goods and style of garment in di'afting such garments the back and front are : drafted together. down the edge. even with the point just established. and establish a point. The front is drawn from this line. allowing a fullness of one inch. and establish a point at neck measure. Eighth. — Eleventh. Sixth. in scale J. Thirteenth. Third. for slope of the shoulder. Measure up from the third line one-half of an inch more than the depth of arm size. eight inches. — Place the end of the rule on the first line. and establish a point at neck measure in scale number sixteen. and establish a point.— Draft right angles from the first and second points. — Ninth. — Twelfth. Fifth. and locate a point for hip measure. down the edge. — Tenth. Fourteenth. — Draw a line forming a right angle with the edge of the goods. — Locate a point at one-half the depth of arm the size.— Draft a line forming a right angle with base line. — Measure from the line drawn. These garments being Avor'n over the dress. even with this point. — Place the end of the rule to the first line. commencing with the back. lengthwise the goods. located on end of rule. — Measure from the waist. Measure out on third line one-half of an inch more than one-half the width of back. a proper allowance should be added to the measures. Draft a line forming a right angle with the third line. Fourth. GhdM?>. omitting the balance. Measure out on the third line. —Measure from down the edge the depth of arm this line. the length of the waist down the back. Second. Seventh. one-half of the size of the bust. even with the base line.

Nineteenth. Rochefoucauld. — Measure from the neck. —The worst men often give the best advice. — Draft a right angle from the first point. one-half inch less than the length of the shoulder on the back. and a young knave will only be a greater knave as he grows older. — Establish a point at the neck measure. the length of the waist. — Draft the waist line. —Establish a point at one-half the depth of arm size in scale number four. The farmers are the founders of civilization. We are never made so rediculous by the qualities we have. Twenty — Draft a line parallel with the waist -third. in scale num- ber three. Affectation in any part of our carriage is lighting up a candle to see our objects. always harder. but all must do so who would greatly win. down the the length front. Draft the outlines as shown in diagram number four. — Measure from the neck point on the first line diagonally to the second line. —You have greatly ventured. in scale number two. —— — — — — — —— — 30 a A. — Measure down the back. It is difficult to grow old gracefullJ^ Madame de Stael. —Old age has deformities enough of its own do . Sixteenth. Fifteenth. as by those we affect to have. eight inches below the waist. Agricitlture. The heart never grows better by age. not add to it the deformity of vice. Ambition. A young liar will be an old one. the points at the waist should be made according to the prevailing style and person's taste. Twenty-first. Caio. Advice is seldom welcome. Chesterfield. Daniel Webster. Byron. Age.— Johnson. Twenty-second. and establish a point. Let no man value at a little price a virtuous woman's counsel. George Chapman. Twentieth. either as wanting sense or sincerity. Lord Chatham.y. of waist. then establish a point at the width of the chest. — Virgil. and never fails to make us taken notice of. DEVEREAVX'S ACTUAL MEASURE SYSTEM. I fear rather worse. but cultivate small ones. Bailey. — Affectation. Advice. Command large fields. eight line. from the first line. There should be from nine to twelve inches more than the measure taken from the form given to the garment. inches below the waist for hip measure. —Trade increases the wealth and glorj^ of a countr. Seventeenth. but its real strength and stamina are to be looked for among the cultivators of the land. Eighteenth. Those who need it most like it least. . Loche. — Place the end of the rule to the base line and even with the third line.

and that is the measurement used for drafting the sleeve. 4. then pass the tape line down the edge of the goods to the length of the elbow. 9 and 15. Seventh. —Establish the length of the sleeve. and establish a point at the size of arm size in scales No. — Eighth. Place the end of the rule at the edge and even with the elbow. that the sleeve is to be used for. Draft right angles from these points. 6. 10. place half of the width of the back at the second line. 11. Draft the outlines as shown in diagram No. Second. Fifth. Sixth. — Ninth. First. . —Place the end of the rule on the edge. — Draft a right angle from the point. and establish a point at the size of the arm size in scales No. and establish a point at size of arm size in scales No. —Measure the arm size of the garment. Tenth. and establish a point at size of arm size in scales No. — Place the end of the rule at the edge of the goods. and establish a point at the size of arm size in scale No. and then to the wrist. omitting the first second. — Place the end of the rule at the edge and even with wrist line. 10. pew m Di^w n cne^K ^leeye. 9. and even with the second line. Fourth. of the goods. 13. and even with the first line. Third. — Place the end of the rule at this and lengthwiseline. 11 and 13. —Draft a line forming a right angle with the edge of the goods.

Old Pictures COPIED and ENLARGED and nothing but a Sastisfactory Portrait ^^llc^Tv^ecL to lea-<7-e tlxe lESooms. near Sibley. Qm^ INSTANTANEOUS PHOTOGRAPHY. ST. IN THE LARGER SIZES. Life Sized Portraits in any style known to the art. Seventh Street. PAUL. I make a SPECIALTY of FINE PHOTOGRAPHS. MINN. 211 E. .

JVIiss

Belle Weisel

33

^DONALDSON'S.*-
WORSTEDS, YARNS, EMBROIDERY MATERIALS,
SILKS, CHENILLES, CORDS, TASSELS, BEADS,
KNIT GOODS, CANVAS, FELT, PLUSH,
SATEEN, LACES, HOSIERY, GLOVES,
CORSETS, FRINGES, RIBBONS, HAND-
KERCHIEFS, NOTIONS AND MATERIAL FOR
ALL KINDS OF FANCY WORK.

Headquarters in the Northwest for Stamp-
ing and Embroidering.
Parisian Metallic Stamps used. Stamping done on all kinds and
all colorsof fabric, and warranted not to rub ofi'. Monograms designed
to order.

139 EAST SEVENTH STREET,
BETWEEN ROBERT AND JACKSON.

IMPORTERS.
Berlin Zephj^r,
Fancy Yarns,
Embroidery Materials, Etc.

WHOLESALE DEALERS.
Domestic Yarns, Germantown, Saxony, Shetland, Cashmere, Angora,
Pompadore, German Knitting Yarns, Ice Wool, Crewel Yarn,
Canvas, Cardboard, Mottoes, Etc.

MANUFACTURERS.
Stamped Goods for Braiding and Embroidery, Applique Patterns,
Perforated Stamping Patterns, Powder, Etc.

PRICE LISTS SENT ON APPLICATION.
Address:

J. W. DONALDSON,.
ST. PAUL, MIHH.
Goods at Wholesale Prices sold to Dealers Only.

~~~
"T 35

ST. Boston One Price Shoe Store.50. $6. President 37 . Curtain I Upliolstery Goods. Prop. 386 WABASHA STREET. \ Ladies' Fine Hand Sewed Kid Bntton. -AT THE- Latest Styles. WALL PAPER. ALL WIDTHS.00. Ladies' Fine English Kid. /^-"^^ I^^ CITY GUARANTEED. Gents' Fine Hand Sewed Button Bals and Congress. :Fii>rE SHiOEs. Hand Sewed WORK Lowest Prices. ST.50. $4. war- ranted. IN THE SPECIALTY. 390 WABASHA STREET. PAUL. •^•Wliolesale and l^etail-H-^- GARPETINGS. LOVERINC. J. EDWARD SCOTT. PAUL CARPET CO. L. 13. Lowest Prices.

ACADEMY FOR DANCING. Mankato. 38 . MINNESOTA STATE NORMAL SCHOOL. Private Lessons a Specialty in All the Round Dances.

F^OIi. IN PYRAMID PARK. ^w ^s^~\\^^v:^ ^ 1 M Pbotograprk^ Scudio. on Little Missouri. ^K5^.-^- g¥. 39 . -^•438 WABASHA STREET.

opposite Syndicate Block. MINN. Smith American. THAYER. C. MINNESOTA STATE NORMAL SCHOOL. Peloubet and other organs. MRS. PAUL 522 Nico/kt Aye. Small Instruments. SOLE AGENT FOR THE GENUINE MARTIN GUITAR. 4f8 Wabasha Street. M. Cloud.. SOLE AGENT FOR THE SOHMER PIANO. 40 . Mrs. Thayer is also agent for the Guild Pianos. St. ST. MINNEAPOLIS. Will Compare Prices and Terms with any otlier Dealers in tlie Northwest. This Piano is the only one in the market that can boast of the Centennial Medal. Sheet Music and Music Books Constantly on Hand.

PAUL. A TRIAL IS SOLIGITED AND SATISFACTION GUARANTEED. 41 . ST. USEFUL AND BEAUTIFUL PRESENTS IN GIVEN TO PURCHASERS OF THE WWW Y®SS TEA i3»MFAMY'S BRAl^GH STORE. Which for strength and aroma can not be excelled. SFIEES. for their fine flavor and choice drinking qualities. EfE. Santos and Rio.) with a large and well selected stock of ^TEflS. Caracas. Maracaibi. Bi IS COMPLETE ^WITH ALL THE WELL-KNO"W]Sr GBADES OF Jam. MINN. 377 Wabasha Street. EflFFEES. (near the Post Office. Mocha. Guafama/a. 377 Wabasha Street.*4^ Our Teas have been selected from this year'sgrowth and importations.TEAS AND COFFEES At Importers' Prices! THE NEW YORK TEA GOMPANY Have opened a branch store at Wo.

42 .

I Bbd'B SMITH. India Ink. " 'h \ v'' ^ ^-^^. Third and Cedar Sts. Cor. AGENTS WANTED. SATISFACTION GUARANTEED. t^ . AND^^ PASTEL. 43 . -«'PORTRAIT$^^ iim -^fe- OIL CRAYON.

Repairing Promptly attended to and Warranted. . :^?. ^^ RAIL R CAJO WAT CH ^' a±i^Z^^ ^*^>-r-^^^/M^- [^} / 7^' \ 0^^^ Ls^wrw^ -^ .v. Y tJOHN pkistter. ST. 215 EAST SEVENTH STREET. MI3iTIT. . PAXTIi. ..v \„-. 44 .

H. lit"- 45 ^ . Life Size Crayon Portraits. CHILDREN'S PICTURES A SPECIALTY. W. Y. FfiEnHIEKS 5 KnESTEH. N. Carte de Visite.rr W. UNION SQUARE. Y. N. -^^ 'I'rtlsfic ^ob|rapficrs(j^ i6 EAST THIRD STREET. OF OF BROADWAY. FORMERLY WITH C. F. KOESTER. SARONY. FREDRICKS FORMERLY WITH N. D. FREDRICKS. Cabinet and Panel Photographs.

1^ 46 . y/?^ ^jjt.

105 EAST SEVENTH STREET. •. cc 47 . Careful Attention given to Consignments and Prompt Returns made. : ^ y ($J GEO. CORRESPONDENCE SOLICITED. SMITH & CO. MINN. ST. — ^ Produce#Commission. PAUL. H.

48 .

Dealers in Foreigri and Domestic Dry Goods AND Notions. . Miisrisr. Always have a very Select Stock of CASHMERES.. PAUL. w 420 & 422 Wabasha St. mm :k ^w3Wv\\vS\ '-c^wv^w iS^W WWWXW" ^SS^JOTfffi ^5SKJJ\W WSHKSsd TO'HJS^'' 'SJSviSSi. ST.

.

Cor. No better or more practical example of what square and fair dealing combined with enterprise and pluck will do. ST. is well worth an inspection by any stranger who comes to St. they carry. Paul. by slow but sure efforts enlarging their premises as their rapidly increasing trade warranted them in doing. until they have fairly reached the very top round of the ladder. and not only control the largest retail trade in their line. thus saving at least twenty per cent. Anything and everything that is carried by any exclusive house in Clothing. By a well tried and simple system any customer out of town can order any article they might need without visiting the store in person. Third and Robert Sis. if not the most popular retail establishment in this Capital City. In conclusion. Hats. D. to any section of the country.000) Square Feet of store room all on one floor. and gradually. largest and best arranged store rooms in this section of the country. HATS. but by hard work and careful attention to every detail of their business are continually adding to their hosts of friends and customers. enables them to sell the largest proportion of their goods at about the same prices as the majority of retailers have to pay for theirs.The Boston One Price Clothing House. Over Six Thousand (6. Caps. St Paul. Boy or Child. can be found.. MODNTAINS OF CLOTHING. 51 . '. is the Boston One Price Clothing House. THIRD AND ROBERT STS. you can not do yourself any greater good than by immediately becoming a patron of the square dealing BOSTON ONE PRICE CLOTHING HOUSE. By this system goods are sent C O. Their immense.. one-story frame building. We refer to their neat Price List and Rules of Self Meas- urement which is sent free to any address. Occupying as they do one of the handsomest. than by a glance at the history of this popular establishment. Probably one of the most popular. profit for their customers. Cor. if you are not already. well selected and carefully bought lines of Clothing. No cheap or shoddy articles being allowed to enter their store. Commencing over thir- teen years ago in a small. Furnishing Goods and Hats and Caps for Man. Buying in such large quantities and handling so many dollars worth of goods during the year. giving the party ordering them the privilege of examining the goods and returning any or all of them which may not please. PAUL. GAPS I FURNISHING GOODS. or Furnish- ing Goods House.

Paul. £5*" J^^ rw. St. Minn.-^" ^ >^^- STATE REFORM SCHOOL. .

53 . Made with or without reservoir and closet. Paul. Be sure and examine these stoves before purchasing. The top. GENERAL HARDWARE Jobbing a Specialty. Minn.. CHAS. CHAS. Water in reservoir can be boiled in a few minutes. BERNHARD AGENT FOR H^MPWN iPNlTe^ iT0YEg. St. covers and centres especially protected. FOR WOOD OR COAL. These Stoves are first-class in every particular. one that can be relied on to bake and roast to your entire satisfaction. and consume very OTTLE FUEL. BERNHARD. 438 Wabasha St. These stoves bake quickly. never sagging down. All parts exposed to the fire made extra heavy and durable.

Caramels. $1. Per lb. - _ 30 cts. . 54 . 30 Pure American Mixed. " 1. MINN.00 A. ST. 388 Wabasha Street. . WARDEKL. . 40 Anise Cough Drops. 40 cts English Cream Peppermint Fine Cream Dates. Candies. 30 French Cream Mixed. 30 Pure American Mixed Candy. .00 4 " French Cream Mixed or any 80 ct. 40 Drops. 5 lb. DALLES OF ST. STRICTLY PURE. 30 Choice Hand-Made Mixed. " . Confectionery and Ice Cream. WARDELL'S NEW STORE.00 Choice Hand-Made or any 40 ct. 40 Molasses Peppermint Drops. 1. 30 Cocoanut Bon Bons. Extra Sour Lemon Drops. 30 Chocolate Cream Drops. all flavors. CROIX. 40 Horehound Cough Drops. . 30 Lemon Butter Taffy. 40 Cocoanut Fruit and Peanut Bars. 25 Molasses Butter Taffy. Per Lb. . 3 1b. . . . Sherman Block. box. 30 Boston Chips. LARGEST ASSORTMENT. Look at our Prices. PAUL. Candies. . lb.

CASH PAID FOR RAW FURS. E. ST. A large Assortment of Ladies' and Gents' Furs constantly on hand. MINN. PAUL. 46 East Third Street. FUR MANUFACTURERS.ERNST ALBRECHT. CHARLES ALBRECHT. Albrecht & Bro. m 55 . . .

..... •- im MAMMOTH HOT SPRINGS. U LAKE 56 .. VIEW OX Willi..

57 . ilJt MIKM. ^asf^ionaBfc Jaiforsj cr 13 East Seventh St.. <#::^ PEASE BROTHERS.

'CnAL mGA^URG 5Y$TGm. VIEW IN YELLOWSTONE PARK.DGYGRGAUX'$ Rd. AVyoming Territory. . reached only by the Northern Pacific Railroad.

Paul. Every time she would cough she would take a few drops of the Blood Purifier. Call on or address the proprietor. Sahlgaard & Thwing. and weighs about 175 pounds. S. no Selby Avenue. the lungs.. Noyes Bros. III. She did so with reluct- ance. She was recommended to try Dr. Paul.' Many persons who are afflicted with a bad cough are pronounced consumptives by some doctors when in reahty it is nothing but a catarrh cough. Any person doubting the above can write to any prominent Irish Catholic of St. 'ff RGmAHKABLG (JURG. unless checked. leads to the vital parts. Thomas Preston. she persisted in its use. Mrs.D.) and snuff the Catarrh Inhalant.UIj * ' IMEIIfN^ Branch Office. ST PA. Paul. Wholesale Agents. well known among the Irish Catholics.. and she herself was pronounced a consumptive. Sold by all druggists.. Hal- liday's Blood Purifier and Catarrh Inhalant. 59 . (just enough to wet her throat. for its truthful- ness. Minn. and often would have to leave the church on account of her cough. Croix River. on St. with less than a dozen large sized bottles of the Blood Purifier and a bottle of the Catarrh Inhalant. Minn. as she was nothing but a mere skeleton from female complaints. She is now entirely cured and free from cough. BIiACH:FOH. 274 East Seventh St. & Cutler ard Merell. lost two of her sisters in this way. DEVIL'S ROCK. as she is well known here. Chicago. The first bottle helped her. St. St. The mucous matter dropping down from the head on the bronchial tubes. 151 South Clark St.

.yE.LL9>ySTpNE NATIONAL PARK.

oo according to quaHty. P. Box. All orders by mail will receive our prompt attention.. ^URVED or straight shank. varying in price from J5 cents to $i. 2360. jk > j. MINN. PAUL. ST. O. 61 . DEVEREAUX'S TRACING WHEEL.^^^ - 'i YELLOWSTONE NAllolxAL iAKK.

62 .

.

64 . A perfect fit guaranteed without change or alteration. Devereaux's Actual Measure System is a system of drafting all kinds of ladies' garments by measures taken from the form. TOWER FALT.S. Yellowstone National Park.

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4 c- .

^^ .^ '?v^^ ^-^. ^""^^ .0^ 0' -^ ^.^ ^^--^ ^^--^ ^^ A ..0^ "-^^0^ -> .^^ "7T "RTWriCHESTERr^ I INDIANA Jf^ d" "-^^a^ o"- .^^<^-r' '^^^\ \^K*° ^^'^^^ ^-^^^^z .^' ^°-.