BARTXENNBDY

Mr.

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252) E- 25: a Street, Fruitvale, Calif.

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SANTA CRUZ

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A MAN ADRIFT .

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STONE CHICAGO & NEW YORK MDCCCC fcf .A MAN ADRIFT Being LEAVES FROM A NOMAD'S PORTFOLIO By BART KENNEDY COMPANY HERBERT S.

ALL RIGHTS RESERVED .

TO MY WIFE .

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. SHOVELLING 95 ... . IX. 223 WITH THE INDIANS vii 234 .119 144 XL NO MONEY XII. . V. ... 212 FROM VICTORIA TO NANAIMO . THE CHILKATS XVI.. FINDING A SHIP . AT SHAFT PRISON IQ IO6 . VII. . 8l VIII. VI. THROUGH THE ROCKIES . XIII. . MY FIRST VOYAGE III. ADRIFT LIFE ON . XV. . AN OYSTER-BOAT . 6 77 ON TRAMP BILLY .152 .. X.. IN ..CONTENTS PAGE I. . I? 4O 43 IV. FIGHTING A NOR'-WESTER . I II. MAXWELL SIMILAKAMEEN 172 19! XIV. . XVII...

..... OPERATIC XXII.. LOUNGING XXI... . EARNING THIRTY DOLLARS 262 277 XX. 298 308 319 THE BOWERY NO PLACE TO SLEEP XXIV.. .viii A NEW PHASE Contents PAGE XVIII. 245 XIX. THROUGH SUNSHINE FORAGERS PROPS. XXIII. 330 . ..." HOW I "RAN .. ....

I had walked miles and miles that day. the would to like to visit. and occasionally asking to be taken in one of them. Surely I would find a ship to take me somewhere There were anywhere. and pleasant and along so beautifully. was young and Here I was in Liverpool the key to the whole world. was The clouds sailed bright.A MAN ADRIFT I. wondering vaguely as to what would do. with just a shilling in my I pocket. looking at them. thousands of them lying in the docks. though cold. But the mates shook their heads when I told A . I eager see things. and looking up into them made me think of the strange lands I day. FINDING A SHIP I WAS in Liverpool. It was in the beginning of January.

2 them before. they said. and rigging They had a curious air of travel and great distances. something magical. was only a raw in the greenhorn. I was without friends and alone. To live is a fine and . but before me was it What the big. just like the pictures had of them so my mind. still felt that I Some chance or another would go somewould turn up. They looked tall. held for me I could not tell. fine. A Man that I Adrift never had been to sea They wanted men who knew I the work. You felt that they had come from places a long way off. mysterious world. and I hardly cared. But I had thought and dreamed of them ever since I was a lad. calm and strange. I had never seen ships before the morning of that day. And now in they seemed so I beautiful to me. great desire was to see and feel and experience to meet new My and strange phases. and that they were going to About them was places a long way off. and strange. their sails fit straight masts and their furled looked so and beautiful. who would be I way ! But how.

The and blowing. or around the Cape of Good Hope. The day wore up and throwing ing boats. sailing ship got outside into till the Day . darkness had fully settled life of the river was full of stood charm and mystery. river was of rushing Whistles I and horns were till watched down. be going to the far-away Indies. and what did they hold. glowing into relief the crossfull Soon the lights. and who commanded them ? Might not that big. or to China. where tossed the Phantom Ship the ship on which was laid a curse this When of Judgment. that was being towed Perhaps it was along by a tug-boat? going round Cape Horn. full of lights slow-moving steamer yonderthat loomed calmly along. life. even if 3 you have neither a penny in your pocket nor a home nor It is only the weakling and the friends.Finding a Ship brave thing. coward who is afraid of on. Where were the vessels going. or to Australia? ship And the sailing over there. swiftly - And odd the red of the sun lay upon the broad Mersey.

At last I turned away and walked tip fuJJ towards the middle of the town. great birds. get a bed that night. My mind was of these thoughts as I looked out upon the river. sleep there that night. she would come to a port in some bright And the sailors would then go land. and for threepence I got a big mug of hot coffee and some thick Now I had and for sixpence of it I could ninepence. I That a cheap place to sleep. As I went noticed a big coffee-house. And winds would carry her along And at last over the great sea-waters. During the day I had noticed a lodging-house having a sign slices of bread and butter.4 A Man the Adrift the open water her sails would spread out like the wings of great. night and on the morrow I would look around find would again. in the window which read to the effect that you could get a good bed there for sixI would pence. ashore and see things that were wonderful and full of a curious beauty. and in the morning I would still have . and try and I find a ship. along a street In I walked.

as if reading "Don't be in what was " I my mind. I was well able to look out for myself. over. . and I was not afraid of things. "Hello!" corner." he said." little . a voice shouted out. " hesitated a and then I went on with him. could. find. afraid. in Then search I would set out again a ship. I'm not going to do anything to you. I my for I was going along looking for the street wanted the street in which was the It lodging-house.Finding a Ship threepence left 5 for breakfast. I wheeled round and looked. man as was a little hard I was turning to A was standing 1 in along/ said he. I front of me. After all I was strong and vigorous. if to be half drunk his shoulders His head was sunk down." don't see how you was my comment. The man seemed were bent. and uncertain. his " I gait was slow and could easily knock him I he attempted anything. a Suddenly. Come " I want to talk to you." thought to myself.

I can take you to will a boarding-house where they you till they find you a ship." he said. face of a "How I man who holds things do you know?" I asked him " again. put Because you in the way of it. " "You want go to sea!" he said suddenly. We had now come window. " for I have only nine- And will they be sure to find me pence." he answered. was the back." I " looked at him in surprise." " I keep " But will they keep me without money ? asked quickly. If you want " I can to go to sea. face. a halt before a shop looked full into his face. you go aboard a ship.6 A Man " Neither do I." He to " I for moment. . bleared Not an in it inviting face." Adrift said. I There was It something couldn't understand. and I It was a round eyes. slowly. a ship?" " " And here's They will. with big. How do you know ? to asked. saw you down on the docks I saw to-day. as he looked me up and down. he with a laugh. paused " But a that isn't the point.

it is gets an advance because every man who note for two This note isn't paid till the ship pounds. It's strange places though. next to impossible for you to get a ship here in Liverpool without you are taken So the best boarding-house." to said.Finding a Ship 7 It's another thing I have to tell you. you know. Now. is I will I go a with you. do you under- stand?" . reason of ships it. But you where a man are green. to get ship. and you don't know If you want to know the the ropes. and then find him one. advance note to the boarding-house master. with a laugh. keeps you and finds you an and after you are safely gone he He gets the money." " said the man. You give this is a few days out at sea. thing you can do is to come along with me that is. outfit. " That a why they came have Liverpool thing. " Well. if it's a ship you are looking from a after. that for they keep nothing." "It isn't so strange as it looks to you." I thought for a I little.

It Adrift clear enough. I thought. " You tell me you have ninepence. Here was all the I trouble taken right off my shoulders. I was all was lucky to fall so easily into the right way of things." he said. were going back in the direction We of the docks. stopped. " Let us go over there and get a drink. where my guide re- freshed himself with "three of whisky. little But I was a who had never been puzzled.8 I A Man did. as to why a man to sea before should It struck get an advance of two pounds. however. But too closely One must not look a gift-horse in the mouth. me I that perhaps sailors were scarce." To this I assented. was sure of getting away. as it seemed a reasonable request. In that case you might as well treat me for the trouble I'm taking on your account. and at the I was filled I with joy thought that soon vessel." . and we went over to the public-house. would be on and an outgoing Suddenly the man pointed to a big public-house. thought it well not to inquire into things.

I peaked cap. After we left the the some light into public-house he let mystery of a man to sea before. like the town I had come from. and wore a flat. men he had Even though the men . regulated by the tonnage And on the day of sailing there were usually one or two hands short It was then that the boarding-house master came forward with picked up anyhow. greasy. was just a young workout into the world to man who was going seek his fortune. for myself. and I still wore my rust-stained It slop and overalls. being able to get an advance note of two pounds who had never been Ships certain could not leave complement port without a of hands. and he asked me a lot of questions about But I had little to tell him. The last place at which I had worked was a mechanic's shop. life so far had been most unevent- had been dull and grey. my ful. I had a woollen scarf round my neck. The number was of the vessel. The whisky seemed to warm his feelings towards me.Finding a Ship while I 9 took a glass of beer. he told me.

" said the man." " me with no particular expression in his eyes." again. bidding me follow him. My " was a " runner for a boarding-house. but pointed to a door at the end of a passage. He walked to it. and there were four men in it sitting An oil lamp stood on before a big fire. after shaking hands He . and pushed The open. the mantel. " A " and he gave three knocks on the door. " at man for you. A Man sailors. ran into the Docks. and said. hard-looking face. One " of the men rose up and turned round. We walked across the road to pointing. him sit down. My guide left us. throwing out a small light. Adrift the law was complied and the ship was free to go. it. Then he turned towards the fire was a man about fifty.io were not with. Is Murphy in ?" he asked her. girl let us in without saying a word. guide We turned down a narrow street which Murphy's boarding-house is over there. All right. Murphy looked let Murphy. addressing him. She did not reply." said here's a my guide. room we entered was rather a large it one. with a dark beard and a pale.

travel-pictures in my mind became ! Perhaps.Finding a Ship with me. And feel subdued. I The dulled. I n began quietly to study They were evidently in the same circumstances as myself. after in trying to had made a mistake go out into the world And doubts began to assail me. my I was amongst were not sailors. Was this the right way to go about getting a ship ? it have been better to have kept on asking the mates for a berth myself? All at once Murphy got up and left Wouldn't us without saying a word. This was the only way they could . They were silent when I came in. and the other men. found men They The surmise was right. There was an that air of tancy about them. were simply working-men who wanted to get out to other parts of the world. sad expecfor the first time depressed. One would have something like thought that the men were some led out to undergo waiting to be awful experience. And Soon then I we gradually that began to first talk. day I began to all. and they remained silent. It was a strange scene.

and brought it to the full in the men with whom I was now talking. A Man for they Adrift had no money. Times were hard but the real reason they were here was because they were impelled to the less move by more or an past. To work day after day. wandering instinct that is strong in every inherited human being far. the He ocean. A man either becomes a clod or dangerously began And thoughtful. instinct from a dim when men wandered over earth dull the face of the as hunters. my . of getting work hardly liked the idea of facing He life had heard that that sailoring was a hard else for men were others : often struck and ill-used. And talked in a like strain. spoke of the in difficulties England. Living through the monotonous labour had grind quickened it. to think of the work I when I had been spirits doing for the last four years.12 manage it. One of them. But there was the nothing it. month after month. and year after year in the same place and at the same thing is maddenof ing. a young fellow from the country.

somehow. sat and talked to till the middle At about one did o'clock Murphy came a in and beckoned not me. but to there were best no of blankets. We had make the it by putting off our coats and covering ourselves up with them as well as we could. thinking of what might happen on the morrow. He was this man who waste words. And the pictures and dreams of the morning when I was going from ship to ship came back to me. The night was very cold. Murphy came back There were some sacks for filled with straw us to lie on. Things would turn out all right. after an hour or and showed the four of us up to the so. I was willing to dare or go through anything. . and a two-pound loaf of bread was divided amongst us. however hard it might turn out to be. When we came down in the morning got some hot coffee. but I I was hardly minded it much.Finding a Ship 13 rose again. I was glad to be on the eve of any change. room where we were to pass the night. we Then we of the day.

"is going round Callao. it. "The to you on. He came at once to the point. I told him I didn't like to sign as an able seaman. couldn't go at "Besides." he said." he said again. " Take it.' much like a Then he obeyed him.B. You 1 look I mechanic." Cape Horn He then let me know structed it me I was a steamer. there's no sailorising . I But he informed I me that didn't all. sign as an A. We were soon going along the docks. for I had never been to if sea before. "Off with your slop and overalls. It was very light it up." said vessel I'm going to put Murphy.14 A Man " Adrift Murphy. and come " Your outfit's in along. and he into tell the mate or the the advance note out to purser to make him when gave me He signed as able seaman. too to motioned for me follow him out. It was a day like the day before bright and clear. his full name on a piece of paper. There was a sailor's bag lying at the end of the passage. so that there would be no mistake." I picked and easy to carry.

stockily-built man with a his joked Murphy about the dry- land sailors and sent kind of " outfit he them in to sea with. red face When we were aboard. in She to made the trip fourteen days. and I was lined up for muster with the rest of the crew. But the next day I was luckier. however. before. What have you asked. We were dismissed after I the mate had inspected us. on the John Gough. put their bags?" it he But Murphy took calmly. fate was against me. Such things had been said to him The articles were signed. and was . 15 be done aboard a steamer. a big steamer bound for Philadelphia. So Murphy and trudged back again to the boarding- house.Finding a Ship to in conclusion. the bo'sun a across from twelve freight She carried and some passengers. They had got a When we man I ten minutes before. along with two of the others." he said got to the steamer. Murphy shipped me. Murphy had gone ashore with the advance notes.

Greeny. " A " ! sailor stopped me. I was actually going. Go I on. I would soon get to know my way about. And I was happy. little Then for walked forward. My dream was realised." he said. bewil" That way.1 6 aft A Man for Adrift Both ends to going the fo'castle. dryat land sailor looked I him. you damned Paddy West. I had found a ship! . but said I nothing. pointing forward. cared what any of them said to me. of the ship were the same my dered eye.

was no joke as far was concerned. We were grouped up in front of the two bo'suns. and I was wondering it by what turn of chance I should ever see I had no desire to go back. again. outfit. but the thought worked idly through my mind as I turned and looked off over the side of the great vessel. Liverpool was fading off distance. At this time I was standing on the forward deck with the sailors. however. It fell to my lot to be told off for the first bo'sun's watch faced the port watch. who were portioning us off into watches. He me was the red- man who had joked Murphy about to sea with.II. for Murphy had put the outfit he was sending The as I B . MY FIRST VOYAGE WE were running swiftly through the smooth into the river.

1 8 A Man oil-skins Adrift neither nor sea-boots into my bag. was that the time was I scarcely for objecting. What shaking out the notion. into cats thing jumped up climbed like couple of sailors the fore -shrouds and A up the I rigging. bells in the first (five o'clock in had just gone two the dog-watch when out foresail word came the afternoon) for us to shake the foresail. meant I had not the faintest But I got ready to do someor other. but a sailor informed me of it with much scorn and epithet. in it Indeed. and was up alongside . there that was hardly anything of the was serviceable for the crossing North Atlantic Ocean in midI winter. I into my bunk but ripe filled I in fascinated with his felt way hardly of putting truths. I paused a little. did not know this at the time. was so with the thought of being actually aboard a ship that what he said didn't trouble It me much. Besides. and then too jumped up into the shrouds. as he critically watched me unpacking my bag the fo'castle.

Quickly got out along the foot-rope with the rest of them. and were spreading themselves out on the yard on both sides of the mast. know my did not reply to but stopped where I was and watched. I was a good climber. Where?" He swore.My them in First Voyage 19 no time. idea was I to loosen the close-furled sail." said the alongside me. I The now* grasped what was meant. "That thing in your hand." he . Lay out on the yard there. up that " as however. and I saw at a glance that at least there were sure hand-holds and foot-holds about a been to ship. I when didn't this. and began to tug at the rope that fastened down the sail to the yard. " altogether. Again I was " puzzled. fellow Pass the gasket. By this time six or seven men had got up. It I was rather unfortunate did. for it my going <made the think bo'sun and the rest I of the watch knew my work as a sailor. Though I had never sea. and asked aloft me what I I meant by coming duty." said to the man I whom I was near This puzzled asked. me in the rigging.

of Liveroool. the deck like wax. name. Afterwards I found out that it was most " sailor to go unusual for a " Paddy West Invariably he stuck to up aloft at all. At the end of the first dog-watch six o'clock we went into the fo'castle to have supper. and then I learned why it was that a man such as myself was called a "Paddy West" sailor. was notorious for shipping green hands as able seamen. was my as I first I lesson in sailoring. which had been taken from the him. Hence the nickwho had shipped me.2O had A Man grin. It seemed that one Paddy West. Adrift added with a I He meant the rope in been meantime round sail and passed from hand to hand till it had reached me. Murphy. And stood on deck with the rest that I of them felt had emerged from my first trial with at least some success. I passed it to the tugging at. fry of these was only one of the smaller villainous boarding-masters. and then It we all got down on deck. a boardingmaster. But Paddy West had dignified the calling with his .

to They only saw and knew of men who had come aboard under false pretences. " ! "Don't get he a sailorman's I roughly. as they felt they were wronged. And they did so. it was only human for them to make it as hot for these as possible. exclaimed. One of them shoved me aside when I reached forward to take men some food from the in table. .My name. And there was a good reason for this feeling. They had to do the work of these useless men. had filled sent "greenies" to sea with bags with straw for an outfit and so on. at supper in the fo'castle It I was that began to realise that shipping as an able seaman when you didn't know the work might not turn out to be altogether saw that the regular sailors had a strong animus against the men who did it. The sailors had not enough sense of the relation of pleasant. way turned quickly round to him. First Voyage 21 All sorts of shady and wonderful He stories were current concerning him. I things fault grasp the fact that the real lay with the shipping companies. And.

After supper came yarns about all the lands and all the waters of the world. I could wait. It wasn't same as it was on a deep-water ship. The supper biscuits consisted of fresh boiled beef. potatoes. such an easy way about being in places thousands of They talked in . for of food on an Atlantic the There was enough for there was always plenty liner. and and tea. Here were men who had been everywhere. soft bread and butter. where you got nothing but your pound and your pint. The ever talk was -the I most interesting listened I had heard. breathlessly. and my respect for them grew to such a pitch that I almost forgot to think about the sailor who had shoved me aside roughly. everybody. It seemed that the law of the fo'castle was that the sailors should eat before the green hands.22 A Man Adrift in and would have got very much more his way. Here it was plenty for everybody. but the strangeness of the place and surroundings had a sort of quietening effect on me. Anyway.

men At in the Listening to them with ambition to do likewise. one of them would say. The ship was still She had not yet got running smoothly. And then came the yarns about Paddy West." of them suddenly " noticed me listening eagerly." miles apart." " He was shipped with him on a barque Or another fellow would covered by these few rough fo'castle.My " First Voyage 23 When I was in Calcutta. out into the broken water." The whole world and its waters had been say. with a laugh. After eight bells I was out again with the watch on deck. out of 'Frisco. felt filled me I last that I had found my true vocation to to go on always wandering from place place. I combing the beach in Honolulu when I came across him. You feel as if you were steadily flying through . The sensation of being is on a great swiftly steamship when she running through smooth water is magical. Look at the dry-land he shouted. and then the same man would perhaps the next moment say " : Yes. One sailor.

24 space. The foremost man would slip the halyard from off the belaying pin. he would give out the shanty or song. blew on At this the pipe for us to stop. A Man There is Adrift jar. and haul and haul till the bo'sun. round the ship. as four or us grabbed it. pay it out behind him. Then the word came for us to brace things up before So we went turning in at eight bells. and the wind got up. You hear nothing but the faint rumble of the easily-working engines. nor jerk. swells. neither nor toss. loosing the down-hauls. out in the the We were meeting and the vessel began to heave. who stood off watching the sail. would haul as five of We we sang. pin. his I was told off with another man to go . and. and hauling each halyard or brace tight in turn. foremost man would spring forward and bend up the halyard on to the belaying When everything was braced up. n TOWARDS midnight we were broken water.

it. the watch below . of. of pictures and happenings was jumble passing through was bringing walking along my mind. and was very tired. . Now Murphy now I was me aboard the docks now I was hauling on the halyards now I could see the wideness and the far reach of the sea the sea stars light I had always dreamed it. began to over I better. coil the sheets rang out to the sick. But got I fought hard against And when on to my it. came up on deck went forward ginning to feel not entered into to relieve us fo' castle. And . I tried to think over all that had happened. but I could not conA confused nect one thing with another.My Eight bells First Voyage down 25 around the ship and and halyards. it. The day had been a long one. and we was beSea-sickness had I my calculations when I I was looking I for a ship in Liverpool. would soon get I thought. bunk and lay feel flat I my back. The moon- were reflected in The this soft was shining upon it How sea beautiful ! and magical looked.

I staggered aft I began I to feel worse. man who had I seaman splice. box the compass. I was horribly sea-sick. a curious. raw salt air revived me. The ever. and do had signed as one who was able . I asleep. The seemed to me I would to be going all ways at once. When *I took a step could not feel my ship feet. I Hardly was on out my shoulder. with the rest of the watch.26 A Man fell Adrift then a face came near to mine. I " It's eight bells ! Turn slowly got up. ship was now heaving more than stumbled heavily against and a stanchion. and when took a seemed as if my body had no But I managed to scramble on weight. strange face. " ! asleep when a hand was " " Turn out Turn out ! ! shouted a voice. Here I felt a little better But when cold. deck somehow. I My step head was it light. have given anything to have been able to lie down in my bunk. as an able to steer. and got into I my I clothes as well as could. But this was not to be thought of in a shipped before the mast.

There was no use indeed. . I was sick for two days and a half. was of saying anyAnd not powerless. thing while my or. They acted impatiently and brutally towards me. of the got through that watch I never remember falling I down. to my misery. of course. only was will I powerless in body. was shown scant sympathy by my mates on watch. And this was hardly to be wondered at. and one could not. I felt getting began to myself be a coward.My added I First Voyage 27 And here was other shipmanlike things. but too. do anything back. afraid. for they had to take work. well in men my mind. I my was powerless. I time. upon themselves my share of the I had come aboard under false I I How knew. colours. and keep it kicking me. The moon at this time This man had shining brightly. but I turned round so as to see his face. but there was but to wait of repining. I as useless as a The thought of it log. was nothing for it kicked me.

indeed. Still. I could hardly stand up at the time. time after that he struck me in the blackening my eye. Whenmet him I looked straight in his I And to as I felt I back my limbs the power coming was filled with joy. I saw him I smiled. of course. got very weak kicked me was could eat nothing.28 A Man All that time Adrift during which time I had to do my four hours on and off with the rest of the watch. Besides. I knew very little of the work. The time would soon come! At about the sixth day out." I believe gradually I got well. but I looked him "You steadily in the eyes. and said: shouldn't hit a sick sick man. when we were nearly half way across the ocean. I was thoroughly used to the motion of the vessel. I and I who Some face. thinking of this man helped to cure me. and I could haul powerfully on the halyards and braces. The man especially brutal. And Whenever ever face. this man will get well. I was beginning to be of use. though. The strong air of the ocean was . for I was quick.

I looked carefully over him. and when I thought I had him now. after being shut up all one's in a dull. and was made of. and I thought the On for time had I now come the sailor who had for sick. noting where and how I would hit I never thought that he might get him. And the . sodden. thought. I would like to kill I him and pitch him overboard. sharp wind striking full into the face. I would see what he He was there. annihilate him. and I noticed him standing near his bunk. Even though a man did not know his work. My eye was still sore and black from the blow. black town. to be out in this vast open of moving waters. fresh.My I First Voyage into It 29 such as putting a vigour of life me had never felt before. I just felt that I could the better of me. striking him when he was helpless was no way to right things. felt fit the seventh day out I anything. It was fine to feel the clean. of it I smiled to myself. It me to settle matters with struck me when was was our watch below in the fo'castle. was a wonder- ful life sensation.

It rest of the watch. my fist heavily on the side The ship chanced the be I lurching towards me at instant struck. And as he followed over on that side. It was a feint. He staggered against the side of a bunk . too." The quiet." I gave him a push with my open hand. and backed quickly a couple of paces. keeping my eye fixed on his eye. but came for me. He said nothing. I to talk in such a way to a you kicked me. I turned to the right like lightning jumped to and landed of his face. : your time to strike me again. I backed again it was a big fo'castle and then I sank myself down a little to the left and reached out. " Come on. making the blow more effective. looked at and became to Something was going for was a rare thing happen! a green hand sailor. sitting about talking.30 A Man Adrift shame of the blow swept through me as I walked up to him and said "You struck me when I was sick and Now's not able to do anything back." said again to him. Don't be afraid. who were us. when " And I was sick.

Besides. and he was not able to give me any return. in AFTER all. keep everything holystone decks. polish brass work. It is astonishing how dust collects at sea. there was to not much real sailoring to be done aboard this steamer.My First Voyage I 31 and before he knew where he was was right close up to him. I turned to the rest of the watch who were all eyes and said quietly. and asked had enough. ! He had " I'll fight the best man in this watch. The main work was clean. I was too quick for him. to steering was done by four quartermasters. his over blood." There was no response. by the collar. So for all practical purposes . and four men were selected for The the lookout. dragged him up him if he had Dropping him again. The first blow had knocked him stupid. And now face all he was down I in a heap. pounding him in the face and ribs. and keep the paint free from dust.

indescribable uproar. one in a And the wind came with such fury and force that sensation from the body and it drove from the brain. I'll never forget that night to the end of my It suddenly became pitch black. moment which had been shining before. And and I could braces. haul strongly on halyards Usually the sails were only put on the vessel to keep her steady in heavy weather. And then the hurricane dropped on us. We could do thought nothing but gasp and hold on to something with the death-clutch. stars. The moon and clearly a out. I could push a holystone with the best of them no great feat after all.32 I A Man Adrift was as good a steamship sailor as anyone else. It was as if the sea and the heavens and the thunders and the great ship suddenly became horrible. were blotted There was nothing for the watch on deck to do but to grope slowly along like blind men. One night at twelve o'clock a short hurricane came down upon us. and bend . life. or when the wind was blowing from the wrong quarter.

clutching thing. awful seas. end was nearly as sudden as its behad only lasted a few It ginning. shining clearly. I were sweeping was so stunned that seas fear. All through the next day through these terrible seas we as strained if we were following cane.My a if First Voyage 33 so as to get a chance to breathe. The the hurricane had swept tre- out into distance a flying. mendous. All at once the hurricane died down. were with us the gigantic. gasping and shrinking and The end of things had come clutching. was going on in blind darkI was ness. And the stars and moon came But the seas out again. for the force of the wind striking down our heads man he in the face would choke him. shapeless thing of destruction. The wake of the hurriforward-deck had become in the c . I over the I did not even feel was just a blind. All this ! Immense ship. sweeping. let go what he was clutching on he would be dashed down. And to. Its minutes. from which sensation had been suddenly driven.

If a man were caught in it. he could never be got again. I No boat could be sent after him. and watch settled One had ships at the beginning of the main-deck for the instant when the ship down and became steady. but I had hardly got three-parts of the way when I slipped again. the sea was upon me. I and the meat vessel watch's waited amidships at the main deck before for I made my steady herself dash forward for to the fo'castle. galley with for a kid the full of potatoes supper. The ship only remained steady for three or four seconds. I got up. I dashed along the fore-deck.34 A Man Adrift to wait amid- most dangerous. Then was the time to make the dash along the deck for the fo'castle. he would be swept overboard. And once overboard. but time. I I and this before slipped could recover myself. As down. one of these the cook's had the bad luck to be caught in I had just come from seas. and if one waited too long the sea would again be thundering over the deck. she steadied. Where the kid and potatoes and meat .

My went to if I First Voyage I 35 don't know. Many I was glad to be alive. but was picked up and swept against the foremast as I were a cork. that I was still on board. to my utter surprise. but it seemed to whirl in a sort of circle. that I I like a top. heaved up clear out of the water. a poor fellow has met his death . By a miracle I had been swept into the lee scupper. I around the stuck. and kept there I don't know how. I crawled down into the fo 'castle. I twined rope. too. Strangely kept my senses. The water was boiling and fighting over and around me. And big. when suddenly I struck against someThen the next instant I was thing hard. and washed me from my a sea thundered clutch on the halyard as if I were but a feather that was lying against it. spinning me in round and round enough. my legs. The awful force of the water did not strike a straight direction. though I felt must be overboard. stiff There But over the deck. I flung out my arms and clutched the fore-halyard for my life. again It struck me. and I found.

used to tell of Occasionally the sailors it in their watch below. so terribly cold. rounding the Horn. Some told chums who had gone out suddenly into violent death. in the winter time some sailors would not ship for a it at any price. out if it was of all the oceans of the world the most dangerous and ugly in this respect. trip across In fact. though a boat was always got were humanly possible. and never a big blow as they were got again. or how poor Bill was gone overboard an hour before he was missed sailor in at all ! the fo'castle There was not a who had not an of actual first-hand knowledge some of such sad experience. Lowering a boat for a man was rarely ever of use in rough weather. Squalls and short hurricanes were inAnd it was cessantly springing up in it.36 in A Man Adrift by being caught and carried overboard a heavy sea. In the winter time the North Atlantic. or the Western Ocean. How poor Tom in was carried off. as the sailors called it. At last we were off the banks of New- .

My foundland. My fight with the sailor had created a . but still I must said. but with the joy was a tinge of regret . and in time I would make a good sailor-man first sighted land one morning at in ! We sunrise. off It came up on the horizon away on the stoning of the port-bow. First Voyage 37 The weather had moderated. and " one sailors ! There's America dark line. for one of the sailors had given me some socks and and the bo'sun had given me mittens an old pea-jacket that was very warm. and braces were bedded did not in ice. decks at the said to " We me : were holy time. favourable was green. looked at the low-lying. It was a relief to feel the thing like running with somesmoothness after its heaving vessel and stressing through the heavy weather. But I mind that much. The voyage would soon be I over now! The thought filled me with joy. It had grown much colder the halyards . and the fogs which usually lie here in the winter had lifted. me. they have something I impression on my behalf.

that was my appealed to something blood to some instinct I It had inherited. still I loved in it. heaving stretch of the ocean. if had suddenly realised in this scene of ocean. which was well up clear. It was as ness and joy and everything. was cold. air. was a clearer and I this land that at first crept line. and land all the longings I . up on the horizon as a It dark morning was most The sky was so blue and beautiful. now. but the northern softness. The strange. It was a higher and more acute feeling In it was sadthan that of happiness. clearer. brought to me a moment of curious. I here was the land one of the had dreamed of when It was becoming faint. was getting used to feel the press winds. were times when it brought terror. A Man It Adrift I at leaving the ship. free ocean ! ! And lands boy. was shining with a searching. but was so fine of the great.38 to it. and the sight of the land off in the distance. and the sun. The great. intense feeling. to see the strong There vast. clear beauty of the morning.

The voyage Busy men were rushing about shouting English in a curious flat accent. in Philadelphia. And soon the pilot came aboard. through suffering. was glad it For who could what held in store for tied me? up to the wharf. It from the bank of the river stretched a country that was winter-bound. The next morning I left the ship for And as I It was on a Sunday. this country. had come to was but a com- mon hand working on the ship. A new world was before me. good. walked through the phia I I streets of Philadel- hopeful. grinding our way through the thick Off floating ice of the Delaware River. And now we were We was were over. close. to see it. cold I was but tell and hard-looking.My and wishes of it First Voyage I I 39 my life. felt strong and . but to me came this glorious. strange moment. and then in a few hours we were grinding. The next day and the day after that we ran along favoured with calm The voyage was nearing its weather. though had not a penny in my pocket.

clean streets. The people 40 . looking for work. The curious. He wishes to be near people and to hear their voices. odd jobs. Or he may have been going along over bare. and the long. been so long communing with himself that he feels the need of contact with other human beings. or he has been working his way hither and thither. lonesome magnetism of the He has been off places. in small. mighty town possesses him. tempting displays in the shop windows. winding country roads that seemed to He has go on without end for ever. making a bare exist- ence by the doing of stray. ADRIFT ! THE magic of a great town A man goes into it when he is hard up and lonely and wearing shabby clothes. and the ever-passing crowds and the bright.III. and he is touched with the general movement. even if he may not speak to them.

that . that a may be foreign man has come from things have apof his native at last is some gone land. Vague be. The town was here long. townbut still get to it. . approaching a strange a town. He is glad to even though he be penniless. Lone ships that move on and on till they are lost in the dread. Men who It are adrift. The people who knew him once may be dead or But still gone. even as himself. there is for him the town. where He now proaching the great town and he it is thrilled. long after he has crumbled and gone to dust. is for here something that this akin to him. or may not know him. The town that is his town. mysterious distance. kinship has for him a though warmth and a sense of rest. even as it is the town of him who is fine and great. is place hard with him. long before him the town that will last long. Or it may be that a man to is one who native may not go back is again his Now he place.Adrift 41 he has seen off from the town have been but stray and passing.

this town but he it. sound of its mighty life. is He is to to him ? stance through the magic of circumHe may. in a street. far away. The magic of a great town! . and new. give him the town! The town where no one knows him where no one knows of what he of the has done life where he may begin a new > he goes on with firm where fortune may await him. Soon he will see the spires arising in the distance. fulness life of the pleasure of ! In the town Yes. And stride. fine clothes. Even though he must How its be to see the spires of in churches arising will the distance! How the faint. buy himself a good dinner. be to hear.42 A Man glad he glad he faint will Adrift face strangers. to coming coming And who knows what chance may do Who knows what may happen for him ? it! It is far off. find a Then he will go and purse of gold. He will stretch himself in the life.

The were fifteen dollars a month.IV. Here I shipped on an oyster-boat to dredge for Chesapeake Bay. LIFE ON AN OYSTER-BOAT AFTER many days tramping self in I found my- the city of Baltimore. which was an easy 43 On way down to the ." as the sailors call it. on a small schooner. And you were bound by the same laws oysters in the and you would be bound by if you shipped on a deep-water vessel that was going to round the Horn "Cape rules that Stiff. and wages one had to ship for a month at least. and sailed down the the bay. the captain's machine his He if had power thought I it to strike or shoot you he shipped necessary. You were slave. dredging grounds we had nothing to do but to sail the schooner.

men a Fastened to stout. It winding to in when took a they had four with winch. sharp teeth." . and was simply a strong iron frame with a steel chain bag pend- ing from the large end. so as to allow the dredges to pass easily. Each man was armed with a " culling hammer. She on filled had the amidships sides for two crab-winches port and starboard the dredges oysters. In working time these were put in readiness to be heaved overboard at a word from the captain. a dredge lay on either side near the gunwale. A word about the dredging outfit of our aboard. schooner. and rollers put on a level with the planking of the deck. The dredge was trian- gular in shape. These scraped in the oysters as the dredge dragged over the bed. in which was a row of long. Across the mouth of the bag was a steel bar. down.44 task. A Man as there Adrift all were. fifteen-fathom rope. ten men It took us two days to get on account of head winds. told. who then steered the boat The gunwales were cut away.

anchored every night in We . was work out of us. we Reluctantly would arise at the sound of the cook's toil. the night before to take scarce. where we slept. we had been warm enough them off. our first job was to haul up the anchor and loose the sails.Life on an Oyster-Boat 45 a hammer with a long. narrow head and a long shaft. the cook. About an hour before dawn. work was much the same as another. voice and put on if our clothes that is. After creeping shiveringly out of the manhole and on to the deck. and for separating the oysters from the loose shells when the contents of the dredge were One day's dumped on deck. Blankets were The to get we for froze to death or captain didn't care whether All he cared not. huddled gether like rats. lived aft would with the captain in come forward to the the to- fo'castle. and inform us that the time had arrived for us to sally forth to and unjoyfully. who cabin. which he used for breaking off extra shells that were stuck to the oysters.

as a man from either ! side heaved them overboard. get to our places at the winches. The speed of the schooner checked considerably as the dredges dragged over the oyster bed. file and one by one we would cabin to eat. . because of the raw. with oysters. and splash would go both dredges simultaneously. and coffee. gradually bars. which usually con- sisted of codfish-hash. " Heave " from the captain at the ing ! wheel. the schooner would be making all speed for the dredgArrived there. Getting up the anchor was always a terrible job. into the Whilst breakfast. "Breakfast!" the cook would shout. was being doled out in detail. bread. we would ground.46 A Man Adrift any small bay or cove that came nearest or handiest. damp winter wind which was usually blowing before daylight. which were scraped into the chain bags by the toothfilling "Wind!" when the the captain would command dredges had passed over the whole width of the bed.

but in the one horrible strain wind ! wind ! we didn't notice it. gale off tightest possible tension.Life on an Oyster-Boat will 47 would With a the whole of us suddenly bend our strength upon the handles of the winches. washed us from head to foot. there are lost in the shallow. and wind with all our might and main. Every nerve. It is well to remark for the benefit of those who don't know that the short choppy seas of a shallow bay are harder to contend with than are the gigantic. more ships else. and breath was strained to the muscle. choppy waters of the North Sea than anywhere Oh. Wind Would the internal strain ! . Proportionately.ocean. least bit it was instantly felt by the All had to fuse their strength into The cold seas desperate whole. During the winding the schooner would be tossing about like a feather and shipping seas. If a man slacked up the rest. the terror of that awful winding! I'd sooner help to take in frozen sails in a Cape Horn. awful swells that are to be met with in mid .

the oysters out of the heap we quickly shovelled the loose shells. oysters. Then we menced sible on our knees and com- to separate as quickly as posthe oysters from the loose shells. By the time we had got little out all it. it a man were though I every fibre had never I anything like before nor have since. as we was the a soft of rest after the terror of the winding. a before the so as captain had put the boat about to cross the oyster bed again and was ready to give the word to heave the . appeared Up ! up ! gunwale and they were on deck. have done the hardest and roughest sort of labouring." called the picking out of the oysters. above the and their contents fell dumped out in a heap. flinging the oysters behind us to form a pile. Up! up! At last the necks of the dredges rollers. usually. and " the seaweed overboard. Any extra shells that were sticking them we broke off with our " culling hammers." As soon as we had got all to Culling.48 never cease in felt A Man ? Adrift if I It seemed as cracking. the stones. or.

Life on an Oyster-Boat spell.e the terrible winding. we let go the anchor. for the Arriving there. At sundown we made nearest cove or harbour. weary. and took in and furled the sails. barring a few moments we got to snatch a bite of food. and then we jected. wet. fast washed up the deck. The D jib of the schooner . It gave one a sense of a sense of peace. After that came supper. was done. The day was ended. and again would come the culling. however sad or hard they may be. It was fine to stand on the foredeck of the little schooner and feel towards the harbour when her rushing our day's work rest. II STILL. as there are fine moments moments in in the all lives. and made the dredges. filed. real Thus we never got a breathing Again would corr. and de- into the fo'castle. there were fine life. This awful work would continue without a break up to sundown. 49 dredges overboard.

man didn't have the fighting instinct strong in him he was very apt to get knocked about If you sailed down the Bay with some . At the beginning of every oyster season they would turn up in Baltimore. I used to wonder how long would be a dredger. Though the life was hard. and greet each other. And. the captains were If a a lot of brutal bullies. dredgers had a saying that if you ever once got the dredging-mud on you The you would always come back to it again. Often there were black tragedies in the life. there were fellows who had been at it years and years.50 A Man I Adrift stood out like the wing of a giant bat. Bodies of in men were found floating the Bay. Being faced with grim. still in a sort of a way it appealed to me. indeed. and compare notes as to what they had been doing since the last season. They had been murdered and pitched overboard by the captains and mates. I used to think and wonder about many things then. iron facts has a charm of its own. As a rule.

A word as the way we used the to First get our food. . captain and They. of course. knocked flat with the butt of a and like revolver. enough get the Some captains kicked out of you. against but the laws didn't work. you way could a man. There the working over the were laws. When they had finished eat- two of the men would be called in. to be ill-using and to killing of men. of to You your had of to be ready out with sheath-knife it into to offered and give the whole blade the mate or captain who strike In no other you. would have clean plates and clean knives and forks. were bed. the mate would eat.Life on an Oyster-Boat to 51 go captains you had the whole length be the ready to rope. and the cook would ladle out the food them on to the plates that the for ing. used to have loaded revolvers lying life within actually grasp while the men oyster sure. wouldn't keep up your style as Fighting back with your fists be You would be worth a rap.

52 captain A Man and these Adrift just the mate had used. You had to eat from the dirty plate of another man. now and then. he didn't like me. One morning breakfast I I came aft I into the cabin for believe . . had eaten. you were kept The idea was to take up till the last. and hard eyes. favour with the captain. with a scarred He was the captain's face. During the whole course of the meal the two plates and the knives and forks would not be washed. little I remember getting into I a row over this custom on one boat cook was called Scotty. who would For some reason or he dropped. would be called one every board two and so on. or four other men. and to save the cook trouble. as If you were out of the case may be. and I didn't We used to scowl at each other like him. looking little sailor man. another. toady. The was a mean- But for all that. He was on. or two other men. When others till men on had in finished. he was a stout. hard fight little till block of a fellow. as time as possible in eating.

I like a man? turned to who stood scowling at me.Life on an Oyster-Boat last 53 at was one of the two men filled I and sud- denly a sense of revolt sight of the dirty plate me the off. Scotty was so surprised at my face. But had had enough of the whole thing. I He knew he would have his back. if asking this that the scowl left his He was dumfounded. and he raised mate at truth. Scotty in It was as aft I a dog had spoken. He fist swore at me said. place of surprise. the lived with the captain cabin. The cheek of for a clean plate was somemy asking And rage took the thing unspeakable. He would show me. I thought Why shouldn't I have a clean Scotty. horribly. and didn't asked him roughly why he give me a clean plate. to tell the he was a plucky little fellow. the captain and the Besides. I if determined to take chances necessary on getting a long drop and a scragging . who lived forward in the forepeak. while was only an' ordinary dredger. I had to eat Why plate should ? I be a dog any more. he his to strike me.

I And felt was punching him was fighting with a rope round my neck. there was no it. let him have a the mouth. He fought me as well as he could. and when that's the case a man might for as well go in for a sheep as a lamb. He all I hadn't the the time I ghost of a* show. fist As I Scotty raised his suddenly and swinging blow full in rose cabin. . If I A Man If I Adrift fought I'd have to go to the whole hog. But he got away from me up the cabin He realised steps and on to the deck. The chances were I'd get shot. killed anyone. But my blood was up.54 rope. but I was a much bigger and stronger man. chance at all about I'd get hung. I thought I might kill well end it. the whole infernal degradation of broke in on me like a lightningI And the life flash I while as was fighting. And tried to Scotty. His head struck against the bulking of the And I till rained it half-arm punches on his face was a mass of blood. to strike me.

the animal instinct to save himself uppermost in him. him that it was no joke doing a man up who was ready worth. too and seeing that I was ready they came to the conclusion that the easiest it way out of was the best. season began in October March the six coldest and hardest months of the year. to fight for all he was my They During the whole affair the men mates stood in a group forward. The knocked out of him. and we . fight had been I followed him up on deck. Then we had a good time. I After that The dredging and ended in always got a clean plate. Nothing to do but to eat and sleep and go ashore occasionally We were anchored about a for water. But I was ready for them. didn't offer to interfere. where I was faced with the captain and the mate. The captain calmed I suppose it dawned upon things down. on a sloop that was frozen ice for nearly Once up in I was solid a month. hundred yards from the shore.Life that on an Oyster-Boat in 55 and came he was danger of his life.

so as to bring aboard a barrel of water and some flour and bacon. for the reason that there were large pieces of loose ice on both sides of the yawl. It was freezing very hard. Nor could we land on the ice on either side us.56 A Man One Adrift had cut a channel through the ice. to We loaded up the yawl. The lads on the sloop kept . that perhaps we couldn't Then we saw make the sloop it that night. began but when we had got about half way ing in we were blocked up. So we thought better in to make for we were had of the shore again. But this The loose ice stopped. afternoon another fellow and myself got the yawl ashore. frozen together behind us. and stepping on them would mean mean falling into the water. The loose ice floatthe channel had become frozen an hour. and two together. for We worked hours into three hours. and work our way back to the sloop. which would death. too. so as to get the little yawl backward and forward. and made hardly any headway. And one hour reached into two hours.

eight hours to It had taken us about go a hundred yards. smashing at the And after what seemed ice with our oars. stiff the night be frozen it would mean that we should to me an eternity the ice slowly began to fought the channel to the sloop. we got alongside the sloop. was midnight. Saturday nights we would go to Cambridge a little town on the eastern shore of the On Bay and tie up till Monday . We worked on and on.Life on an Oyster-Boat 57 shouting to us from time to time to cheer us up. We it foot by foot along They had put on the roof of the cabin. to the yawl. But we were getting anxious. If we had to stay in the yawl through And now by morning. and then. so that the reflections would show us where to the for ice. lights move. which fixed us up all right. strike at At to fast enough which we made them last we got near throw us a rope. with the help of their tugging. They pulled us and gave us a big stiff drink of aboard. darkness and night had come upon us. It whisky.

drunk. Yes. A Man Adrift get an advance perhaps of a dollar apiece from the capArmed with this we would go up tain. In other words. into the Then we would town to have a good time. we dredgers. Years and years have gone by since that time. are still clear in my memory. faces rise Aye. we used to get Then we used interfere to fight with if one they another. of the earth. Where are they gone? are they ? Drudges Nobody . We were a bad to But we weren't too bad do the beastly work of dredging. We of were the looked earth upon which. we were. or fight with the police. we used to get drunk. but the faces of the men. rough lot 'of uncouth It men. weather-worn are they before me. The dredgings lot. tried to with the us. is You all could buy a lot of whisky in Cambridge for a dollar. as as a scourings matter of fact. the dredgers I knew. And whisky what we bought. their hard. We were a dirty. Where now? Where of a dredge.58 morning. And why not ? was the only thing left open for us.

My name was Reddy because I had red hair. He was an Irishman man. 59 knows and nobody driftage! Poor human Dogs I stone all. his was a Dublin Nobody sponsor. So the whisky was singing songs. And there was Galway Paddy. and lots of others. the Connaught man. and Belfast. His town became Indeed. and Tom Conroy. Galway were all Paddy of us to fight me. flowing. fellow There was Dublin. I would like My to see even him. too. had become wanted his sponsor. One Saturday night. Even poor little Scotty. at.Life on an Oyster-Boat cares. so close together. Aye. for the captain and mate had gone ashore till Monday. whom I fought with. telling and and we were one another . knew it. We having a hilarious time. many of us dredgers had almost forgotten our real names. everyone to throw a have an affection for them for comrades in hardship and There is nothing brings men misery. I have a fondness for them all. whose town. and nobody asked his real name. A fine Dublin.

and one of us stood on the roof of the cabin holding a lantern so that the men could Dublin was see to punch each other. and finally he made a rush I me from the deck. once till brought on another. but on this occasion he was too drunk. challenged me to fight. to fight with a rule never without a reason. who was backing up the Connaught I man.60 been. who was my particular friend. and the Connaught man knocked him out in short order. talk A Man All at Adrift where we had been and where we hadn't about someone began to and one word fighting. I stood on to the wharf big pile the boat was made fast a and cheered on Dublin. challenged at last Dublin Tom It man. the Connaught agreed to fight on the was a dark night. But he for persisted. liked Paddy. Conroy. When he got knocked out. Gal way Paddy. I I used to make thanks. after They deck. a good man to fight. was just will getting to let ready much against my . and having no reasons declined it to quarrel with him.

I often think of him. He was a fing type of man. and It was disappeared. and no room for him to swim. hard left-and-right. This is not who have been a labouring . As he was making the drive for me he stepped on nothing. think. who never had had the ghost of a chance in this big world. the indomitable Patrick suddenly I dark. though he was but a rough hulk of a dredger a magnetic.Life him have to on an Oyster-Boat a 61 when. for there was nothing for him to grab at. I He would have been drowned. that true. icy It self in cold water. they do not I. sure enough. enough. between the boat and the the wharf. fighting. my intense surprise. And right here I would like to say a word It is said concerning labouring men. This stopped the But Dublin. able man. and the first thing he knew was the finding of him- yanked was a good job I was sober Paddy up. couldn't make out where he I had got neath Pull to till heard a voice down be" : me spluttering out me up! I'm dhrownin'!" Reddy It ! was poor Paddy.

labourer is faced with and is his judgment life. iron The facts. fighting in the cold ! and Dublin died rest waters. grim. The squall struck the yawl and capsized her. I mean that they have more genuine mind-power.62 man. thetic and noble. though he did get drunk. He one of the sudden in squalls in the that come up the winter time Chesapeake Bay. the A Man bear witness main. little He was scull- ing a yawl to the schooner he be- longed to. He . above all. brave. fine man. and. He would give the last cent he had to a stranger if the He was sympastranger needed it. God him was a brave. to Adrift the fact that. and though he had been in' prison often and often. and who are alleged to be intellectual. are in men who than rough of and illiterate have more vigour the thought and imagination have received educational men who advantages. whatever its scope evolved from a first-hand experience of actual Poor Dublin! He was lost at night in was drowned. and though he did fight.

I never knew his real name. of having taken his hand.Life on an Oyster-Boat pal in 63 He face. though he had known the inside of prisons. . am proud of having known him. of having been his friend. was my my friend. There was fair something fine the expression of his hair. He had blue eyes and and he was a middle-sized man of a powerful build. tramp though he was. Dredger though he was. I Everyone liked him.

spells of wind. and a nor'-wester always means It was near the end of the business. We had more than twenty tons burthen. and there were seven men of us aboard. and far off on the north-west the sky was gradually darkening.V. 64 . out till sunset. we would be it to weather But white caps began to show on the waves. likely enough. All the morning there had been a nasty swell and now and then smartish rolling. The weather had begun to look ugly. and well the captain thought in we might as be getting to harbour. which lay about seven miles to the north-west. been dredging for oysters all Our little schooner was not the morning. We thought able that. sure enough. FIGHTING A NOR'-WESTER hauled in our dredges. and headed WE for off Black Walnut Harbour. all told. We were in for a nor'-wester.

and. We were in Right in a whirl of flying. there was a small bend in it to the west over at the end. forward to ease the sheet. Besides. and claps of thunder. It was dark now. It was Hobson's choice.Fighting a Nor'-wester month of December gerous waters of the Chesapeake Bay. Go in or stay out. wind-gusts. in fact. as I was coiling the dredge rope round the neck of the starboard dredge. dan- Suddenly. but there was no other place for us to make for. The harbour we were making for lay off right dead in the eye of the wind. If we could make right this we would be sheltered a good deal. and the tops of the waves looked like the edges of of big. and strained if she would break away. it. the nor'-wester smashed I down rushed on as us. 65 in the shallow. Beating up in the eye short of the wind with meant making very tacks . streaks lightning We were shipping murderous-looking seas. cutting spray. tear- ing flames as the flashed on them. The jib bellied out. was no harbour at all for a nor'-wester.

The frost numbed in altogether. along harder but the gale broke than The captain was at the wheel. would be done. took the foresail We Then we worked slowly with the jib and short mainsail. with ever. her before she were to bear down upon was had the recovered business from the sea before. over his ears. Jack and I were amidships hanging on halyards. heavylike and die freezing. She was of the wrong shape and of too small a tonnage to be a good. my I fingers even through the thick mittens time it wore. and we would be fighting for our lives in the We would struggle a little cold waters. the lappets of his sou'-wester tied down His brother stood by him. Victor was forward tending the jib sheet. It up was hard. and it looked If a big sea as if she might swamp.66 A Man Adrift everything close reefed and the sheets hauled down flat. In a gale of wind there . cold work. weather boat. drowning rats. By this had lightened up again. to the mainsail The schooner labouring terribly.

If were in and close up to the make our way up But we couldn't. is Hot good mixed with and whisky. Sloops harbour. and had no time to make for a better harbour from the nor'-wester. it would be all right. How we managed it I don't know. Now we bend. It was one continuous. All of us cold. as we were caught. were drenched through and deadly Only make coffee. managing to us some coffee we would never have been able to do anything. the cook. a drink or a tight place. Frank. wind was so strong that we were The not able to make the very short tack could we .Fighting a Nor'-wester is 67 nothing like having plenty of tonnage under you. After a long and hard time we beat our way up to the edge of the harbour. schooners were straining and tugging at their anchors inside the They had been caught suddenly. chopping seas and a wind that cut you and wrenched you and stung you to the bone for at the same time. desperate fight with big.

The minute they chocked the schooner up we began to pay out all the chain we could afford. we had. so that we could find them afterwards. This had been the chief reason for our trying to make the at bend. They were too light. We fixed buoys on to the chains before we cast them off. The other boats in the harbour their were holding dently had much pared with their size than but they eviheavier anchors com- own. In heavy weather the more chain there is out to the anchor it the better chance has of holding. to For a while we seemed But all be all right. and then we turned and made for the mouth of There was nothing the harbour again. Adrift to let necessary to get our anchors go So we had right where we were.68 A Man in. Crunch Drag There was nothing for us to do but to let the anchors go altogether. to drag. It was like running into death. once our anchors began. Drag ! ! ! for it but to run out into the nor'-wester till and take our chances itself the gale wore down. .

it. We might be swamped or something might give way. We were staking to our lives for And lose it looked as if we were going No one could tell what would come from one minute to another. At this point the German who belonged to our help to crew got on to the big schooner to In a minute push our boat off. could hardly blame him. them. and our fore-shrouds were torn away on the of her port side. but when we looked round for the German he was gone. free of her we were and rushing on before the gale. however. The object of going out again after we had lost our anchors was to save the boat. He had stopped aboard the big schooner. What we were going to do was not very clear. We for our losing in game had too many chances of it. . She had bowsprit wrenched off. closed and For a few seconds the boats seemed to grapple together. part Both of us suffered.Fighting a Nor'-wester 69 Right near the edge of the harbour we collided with a big schooner swinging at anchor.

but I could see noThe sea had swallowed thing of him. Lowering the hung useless. We could do nothing. The first thing to do was to let it down with . which ran along the foot. The wooden jib-traveller broke away all at once. The jib was flapping viciously. He had been jamming the jib sheet to leeward with his big iron ring at the bottom of the sheet. had caught the in the middle of suddenly force and traveller had smashed upwards through the the wind on the jib. the end of a rope.yo A Man Adrift an accident happened. We shouted. And now was flung overboard. life-buoy yawl that The captain flung out the we had. up in the air as if he had been shot out of a rushed forward and flung over flying him go right up. who was standing on it. it. to It is awful to see a man all death in such a way. I of saw Victor clean as I gun. It only little astern would have been worse than that would have lived in no more than a few seconds the sea was running. and Victor. The traveller.

and I saw Victor. He was all right again. There was too much reason simple. And then I worked my way schooner slowly up to the bowsprit. which I did. however. but we didn't have time to tell him so. as soon as he got his head tied up. Then he us. and yanked him aboard. water right under of the boat. A splinter from the traveller had struck him. and I heard it again. caught him in the by the scruff of the neck. and she right on to him. We were glad to have him safe aboard again. my head. The was tossing about now more than ever. Then I thought I heard a voice coming from somewhere I turned forward. because of there being no jib to steady her. fought along with the rest of . A stream of blood was running down his face. I looked overboard. He was down the bow I stay. The He had escape from death was had been flung overboard in the direction that the boat was going. for his to be done. clinging to the bobjust reached down.Fighting a Nor'-wester 71 a run. and had had drifted a drink of hot coffee.

it was no use. I find my head a foot under would gulp. and raise the peak of it it a little. Our idea was to try and make take the to place of the jib by giving more sheet . nothing Jack and I crawled out on each side of floundering and How we the bowsprit and tied it down. the water rise bury itself right and bury itself again. stuck on the foot-ropes I don't know. and stick like iron. The next thing to do was to raise the reef it as close down as we foresail. and we got inboard. It was one hand for yourself and the other for the boat. As I was cautiously and slowly tying a knot I would The down in you were worth. and slowly I would find myself lifted up again. was Then. shipping could be done with the jib. But at last we had it finished. It was the ugliest job men ever tackled. could. We And as all the while the schooner seas. but It was blowing too hard. You had to stick for all or you were gone.j2 A Man tried to rig Adrift up a sort of traveller for the jib with blocks and lashings. bowsprit would suddenly water.

I might as well have kept them on though. even if a man could keep his head in the big seas he would be frozen . and standing I saw him tie a grannie knot. knot myself. Don't swear at a time like touch land again.Fighting a Nor'-wester it 73 In the than we gave to the mainsail. . it. Besides. grannie A a strain comes upon it. I to do after this but for the to run before the gale and hope pulled off my big sea boots so as to have whatever chance there was of swimming when the time came. the cook. was next to me helping to reef. He shuddered." it We may never Frank evidently thought dangerous to swear than to knot. for our hands were Frank. and knots that slip on a boat may mean knot slips when death. for the shore was fifteen or twenty miles away. I swore hard at Frank as the " said. for all the chance I would have had. I undid and retied and this. end we were successful fearful but we had a job reefing numbed with cold. was more tie an unsafe There was nothing best.

hour after hour. We before got into the inlet all right. It was this that saved us for in off. Still. captain the wheel was He was a man from the eastern part of Maryland. and the But moon came out clear and bright.74 up in A Man no time.d. but little The captain's brother began for to cry. one couldn't blame him. away an inlet that he knew. the en. the captain saw. soaked boots made my feet cold anyway. The long. able to see the lie of the bay shore being was a good thing. But I must say the for He stuck to game. the gale broke on as hard as ever. he was more than a boy. to The beach of it was sloping and sand. Adrift in But all a tight time one instinctively does one can. The night was upon us now. We from Black Walnut had run farther Harbour than we of this inlet thought. and we knew where we were we were . The run the thing was get into and schooner ashore. his face set and calm.

I. a dog a place not fit If I hadn't been a dangerous. Labour had brought me nothing but hardship and degradation. fighting brute of a man I would have been struck and ill-used into the bargain. my body I to create in had lived in the midst of absolute to kennel filth in. The was so gradual that we could hardly ourselves beaching. And the gale roared and roared. ******* I to Black Walnut Harbour At last I grew tired of dredging. But we were snug and out stayed there two days. And when the nor'-wester had worn itself out. had worked the blood and muscle out of wealth for others. and We everything was calm and quiet again.Fighting a Nor'-wester safe 75 slope feel and sound on the sand. Then We we went back and picked up our anchors. of danger.had worked my life out to create wealth for others. had weathered the nor'-wester. and for my reward I had neither a place to sleep . I was as hard up as when I began. we pulled ourselves off the beach at high tide. Aye.

. I thought? I got neither reward nor respect. Adrift nor a bite to What was the use of working at all.76 in A Man eat. So I faced about and became a tramp.

be penniless tramp care Is a no curious experience. ON TRAMP and on To one. for you are a man without a home a man without friends. You are a link dissevered from the human chain. that the world The aphorism owes every man a living . and without self-respect. Things about you seem vague and elusive. Your thoughts waver. You will forget where and how you began to think.VI. You are dispirited. And caring you wander hardly knowing where you wander. You for and no one cares for you. You are in a mental chaos. Projects will 77 come up before . dirty. Scorn is in their eyes. does not apply to you. or As you shuffle along people glance at you as they pass. You haven't spirit enough to steal you haven't continuity of mind enough to plan a course of action.

you You would feel hard. or a low-down thief. A Man and they If Adrift you grasp enough in you would hate everything and everybody. them. will fade before you had force You would like to do You would destroy. If a man had .78 you. How shameful You would have thought that ! death would be preferable. But you are impotent your pulse is down Who not. to like to hold the world in the hollow of your hand so that you might crush it. passing men. you shuffle along. sharp resentment. you are or what you were matters You may be a man with a past. And you beg for bread. You may be one who has belonged to the topmost class you may be a labourer. You knock at the doors of houses and ask for something to eat. to rob. from out the dispirited filth of the slums. or you ask alms of stray. you may be a man with a future. or a man . have shuddered at the bare idea. in It may have been life that at one time your you would have thought it You would impossible for you to beg. murder.

No is dependent upon you. . at least they let you alone. one is tempt for you. You Still there are times to you. world and fancies and curious longings. And this is something. No one If people have a conwaiting for you.On Tramp said 79 you would come to this you would have struck him in the face. You are thrown in upon the first yourself. will feel the sense of freedom that you may be comes from a total lack of responsibility. perhaps. It when a fine moment comes that you will feel the curious sense of power that beIt may be that longs to utter loneliness. Perthat haps when you did think of able-bodied men begging you thought ball it them as wretches hardly worth the powder and of would take to feel sad. you really begin to are. For time in your life. bearing with you a wonderful dream world. And you walk on and on. kill them. You A opens to you within yourself. know who and what you are interested in the strange You have dreams unfoldings of yourself.

In common with them you can move and think and see and hear. you move along with a brisk step you ask for bread without shame. it For you the water In flows as flows for them. Yes. a day. ? After they will die. In moments when these thoughts are with you. They will For you the sun shines as shines for them. they will die in come it to dust.80 A Man Adrift What matters to you the contempt of people who move in grooves. . common with them you have the air to breathe. In common with them you can see the strange pictures in the clouds. even as you will die. who themselves fear the opinions of others all.

We . he spoke now and then of his life in the past. BILLY BILLY and in the I were partners. Billy. We were F just two outcasts who met by 81 . we shared the food that we begged from the road. Where he it is now I have no life. tramped along looking for work together we slept same haystack together we whacked up what little money we got for doing odd When things were absolutely tight. jobs. the farmhouses we passed on was I Who idea. but only in a vague. into He name was and that was the end and beginning of anything tangible he had to say about himself. True. Billy really never had the least idea. distant sort of way as if he were speaking more to himself than to me.VII. He came me his and went out of told suddenly my in a like way. .

The leaves of the trees Sepwere already beginning to turn to the rich varied colours of the fall. We we It " I'm going that way. too. and worn. and in them was a curious look of mingled pathos and resentment the look that marks the man whose life has been a failure from the said. and covered with dust. talked for a little while. I saw him first as I was going along the road to Baltimore. bearded noticed him man His clothes were of about forty-five. On old the face of it. and then started on our . There was a pleasant ring in his voice. as world's standpoint. A Man Adrift and who stayed by each other while circumstances permitted. or American . he was a tramp like myself.way together. partner ! I I stopped are you and looked at him. He was sitting under a hedge on the roadside when I a tired." he answered. His eyes were large and blue.8a chance. was a beautiful afternoon in tember. sad-looking." I said. "Where bound for?" " Baltimore. " " Hello.

I glad as It road. individuality. much because of what he had to but because of himself. 83 I I Though I had no idea where felt would sleep that night. The felt clear cries of birds filled the air. to the full There was something so the joy of life. Off from the road were glades and forests toned with curious and exquisite colours. for I This was as far as ever got. Likely never found out who he was. little The man had After a while I found out what I he was. As we walked along together. less stepped out freely along the was worth while being a nameI and homeless tramp for the sake of living and moving through a scene like this.Billy autumn. enough he wished to forget it himself. I knew as much about him I in the first half hour as ever knew. Billy and I talked He interested me very much not so say. and come He . and I had no curiosity on that score. vital and clear and sustaining in the air. was an English gentleman who had drifted away from his bearings.

when the sun began to sink. but I saw it almost at a glance. He did of course. human say wreckage. half-insolent that that called Hardship and the humiliation of having to beg for his bread had not robbed him of this. and began to discuss as to where we should pass the night.84 down that in the A Man world Adrift just a piece of not. At last. he was a gentleman. silver It was the Chesapeake waters of a bay. Off over near a big farmhouse we sighted a haystack. of many things. We past forests. and we determined to wait till grew darker. cornfields tramped on and on for hours and peach orchards and Now and then we saw in the distances stretches of the shining. The memory We since passed from me. we came to a halt. and when it was dark we crossed hedge. There was no mistaking curious. is it. and then to go and We lay down near the climb up into it. of that strange aftertalked noon will always be with me. the drift of which has Bay." him was air that air fine. it . About "manner.

the charm of tramping the road was upon us. clean hay. We had found a most dea fragrant. Our idea was to ask the people there for breakfast. were afraid of dogs hearing us and setting We We got there all up a . After we had done a little work they gave us breakfast. The cool. clear stars were shining above us. morning came we got down out of the haystack without being seen. refreshing bed. right.barking. changing open country was a much more alluring prospect than sticking at hard steady work.Billy 85 the field cautiously to the haystack. but that hardly suited us. Besides. Then we started out again on We could have got work on the farm. Moving along through the the main road. as our object was to get to Baltimore. lightful bed after the tramp of the day. At the time I met Billy I was all but to an illiterate man being hardly able . and we climbed up into the fresh. and When made a detour house from so as to approach the farmthe front.

was Billy who first gave me the idea of trying to educate myself. Thus I was able read and write. to appreciate I Billy at his full worth. It man whose name even you But such was the case. tage had not been able to stop him from coming down in the world. still he had an True. whilst he gave me a great deal. but a tramp like myself. Though he was . nevertheless. though of but am afraid my little help to him. He had I differ- style . But I felt it to be an advantage. however. . I longed that if for it seemed to me to had it I would have a chance raise myself.86 A Man But Adrift still I had had a wide experience of actual living. It was rather that was struck with the great ence that lay between us. could give him nothing. he knew things self easily he could express himand surely. I appreciation was Of the two I alone was the gainer. He did not do so knowingly. and knew something about men. this advanadvantage over me. It is a curious thing to meet with and be indebted to a don't know. and to possess I it.

for me wonderful . the geologists had wrested from the earth and rocks their dim secrets.Billy It 87 that Billy was a curious look I me when I spoke of this to him. chanced to have my pocket a or where ten-cent dictionary. forget grimy. It was dog-eared and it. but it answered the purpose. How My first task was to learn to pronounce the big words in it properly. And our so went as we slowly tramped on Baltimore. These days were days. in gave But he little I volunteered to help me. Billy would tell me the right pronunciation. He and me of the mysterious origins He told me how vagaries of religion. and I would repeat and repeat at last I it after him till got it it. to I way to Billy took the greatest possible. slip in speak- ing he would me and explain to me why was a He told went into the history of the world and of the nations of the world. I got now. pains teach me it as much as When tell it made a of slip.

The orchards were filled with an exquisite aroma. into the field or orchard. The farmer would Sleeping on a warm night in a great.A Man We Adrift at cutting worked now and then corn or picking peaches. have a little money by us to We wanted let to when we got us Baltimore. lave our faces and hands in water. I liked the odd days we worked in the peach orchards best. looked the with sun shining . smell of the earth and fine its and refreshing is earth Why do people ! How produce. we would have supper and go back to then on the barn. we would come back hungry to breakfast and then we would work on to dinner-time. and go us . and delicately-coloured. roomy barn is In the air is the cool fresh delightful. beautiful with their green leaves full fruit. After sunset up to sunset. and . the smell of the live in towns ? At daybreak and out call the farmer would come and we would get up. sleep at night in the barn. And so the trees. After working an hour or so.

It was so different from the peaceful country. and lie down and wait for them to dry. spread them out in the sun. Even soiled I the waters bay town. Then we would would wash our clothes. with its calm. gliding streamfresh waters. The forest and wide came up before me. looked black from to wharves.Billy through them. I and was sorry of the be in the air. At our other to times way bathe stop on in a stream. and the the foul air. a big town of busy streets and wharves. thought pure fields and the clean. glorious health. Billy . us to take as 89 we The much farmer would allow of the fruit as wanted for ourselves. We had got into Baltimore the night before. and money we had between us was and all a dollar and seventy-five cents. we where lay ships of all descriptions. At last we were in Baltimore. We had been tramping all day the we were very tired. Here was nothing but rush and and unrest of hurry.

were lucky enough to pick up some work on the wharf. and we a went The keeper of it was a man named Murray. house were two great rooms. slept with his clothes If this precaution under were not or taken one was apt to wake up and find either his money I if he had any part of his clothes gone. Here one could get a bed for ten cents. The work was freight rather hard but it unloading a ship was more interesting than labourkept from ing work usually is. narrow beds stand- ing in two long rows with a space of about a foot and a half between them. During all this time Billy on . Every man his pillow. and a meal for fifteen cents. In the welcome. for which we were paid at the rate of twenty Billy and cents an hour. who gave Billy a cordial Billy had stayed in the lodging-house on and off for a long time. which held tories.90 knew the there. fifty They were small. A Man of Adrift near cheap lodging-house Lightstreet Wharf. or dormibeds each.

where the angels address themselves to God. Soon ******* One night fellow strike in the in lodging-house quarrel. Faust. talking Billy disparag- England. I took Billy's part a A big. he I was proud of his country. to see something beautiful even began in the my mind squalor around me. man had been of it. heart At the once I learned verses in off by be- wonderful the ginning of the poem. I I felt myself awakening and growing. I had committed to memory I nearly the whole of the great poem. me whenever he got some books. interfered. carried into arch- The sublimeness of the thoughts and words a great light. was not . muscular from New York I was going This ingly to him. for. and all had re- sented like Englishman. would repeat parts of it aloud to Billy. amongst which was a translation of Goethe's masterpiece. and he would explain to me the meaning of certain passages.Billy teaching I 91 got a chance.

92 much A Man interested in Adrift the matter of hear- ing England blood myself see Billy abused but I being wasn't of Irish going to knocked about. on. " No." can't size. that he would have no in earthly muscular American." I pulled off my to coat and the waist. hit Billy. saw chance BeEnglishman." said to the American. would have the down my Billy. more than laid my quarrel. I'll I "You your " I I'll on like him. and I stood naked Then . Look Won't here. not " " a fight with the big Billy was not strong. in his and he was rather slow suitable at all movements." by God pick ! he exclaimed. and let's what you can do. fighting. He's " my partner. said. "Come Strip off. I fight my own " battles. you won't. shirt." he But see took no notice. rough for quick. quietly." Billy did not me to interfere. sides. I'm more fight you." I said to the American. quarrel I His quarrel was life my for I in fact. said again. you mustn't " I.

Billy
tightened

93
I

my

belt.
I

All the time

kept

my
for

eye peeled. a quick rush.

was on the lookout

The American other men stood
a ring.

also
off

got

ready.
us,

The

around

making

We
when

were just about to get to work
Murray, the boss,

came up

into

This stopped the thing the big room. at once. Murray was afraid of the
police.

And
glad

to

tell

the

truth,

I

was
as
I

rather

of

the

interruption,

had
not

*******
I

strong could polish off the big American.
old

doubts

as

to

whether

or

Dear
they

Billy!
to
call

used
I

"English Billy," as him. Years afterin

wards
totally

was again

Baltimore, under
I

different

circumstances.

called

at the

common

get some

lodging-house to try and I was no tidings of him. longer

a tramp. for me.

The world had grown
I

easier

had changed. Murray was still at the old lodgingHe was older and greyer. He house.

wondered who

it

was

who was

asking

94

A Man
I

Adrift
Billy

him about this English to come and get a bed
house.

who used
not

at his lodging-

could

see

that

he had

the slightest idea as to who I was. He could tell me nothing. Billy had

gone away years ago.

VIII.

SHOVELLING
of labouring
is

OF

all

the

kinds

work

I

have ever tackled, shovelling It trying and monotonous.
the sheer,
nity goes with
it

the most

is

work of
If dig-

unadulterated order.
as
it

is

alleged to go

with

all

hazard

I can only labouring work the opinion that this dignity is

of the most diaphanous and hard-to-beIt certainly escaped perceived kind. power of observation.

my

Fellows have asserted to

me

that the

navvy was "Give him
in the

really fond of his shovelling. his pipe and his glass of beer

evening, and he goes back to his the morning with joy." This assertion has been made to me with varying degrees of emphasis, but truth com-

work

in

pels

me

to

add that the fellow who so
never had been

asserted was not a navvy

a navvy, and never was likely to be a
95

96
navvy.

A Man
He
wordful

Adrift
leisured theoriser.

was some

And it has person. that the ground upon which he based his assertion was about
Some
always struck

me

as solid and as easy to be seen
alleged
dignity
art

as the

which

forms

a

halo

around the

of shovelling and other kindred arts. Indeed, the only thing solid the assertion was based upon was
the solidness of ignorance.

have been a navvy, and have necessarily mixed with navvies a great deal,
I

and
his

I

must bear witness
in other

to the fact that

I

have never heard one of them speak of

work

than tones of disgust.

own

Their eyes have been as blind as my in the matter of seeing where the
dignity

came
first

in.

My

had got a job of Columbus, on the railroad track. sniping Sniping
I

essay Ohio.

at

shovelling

was

in

is

nearly

analogous

England.

The

plate-laying in difference is that the

to

work is harder, and the hours longer, and the men are more bullied by the
bosses.
I

fear

me

that the proud British

Shovelling
workman
in

97
of

gets

a

surprise

the

most

unpleasant calibre

when he

America.
for

He

tackles a job has to do twice the

work
that

is,

much about the same money when everything is considered.

But to

my

maiden experience

in

the

art of shovelling.

Myself and an old Irishman were given a job together to load up cinders on to We worked side by side, and flat cars.
the amount

we

shovelled,

as

compared

with each other, could, of course, be told

by the
labour
father

size of

our respective heaps.

The

old Irishman
-

slave.

was of the genuine type of His father and grandlikely

had
him.

most
It

been
his

labourers

before

was

in

blood.

He

was
its

a poor, last gasp, but
like

used-up old horse at still able to draw.

He
was

was
the

filled

with a spirit of emulation,
as

old

Irishman,

he
I,

worked
a strong

alongside

of me.

Here was

young man, whilst he was a man who I could see that was nearly at his end he was thinking this as he bent himself He was ould, but he would to his work. G
!

98

A Man

Adrift
!

show the boss how well he could shovel So he went at it as hard as he could. There was no such spirit impelling me. I worked with calmness and ease, and rested now and then. The result was that after some hours there was a
tremendous difference

between

our

re-

use a comparison, the spective piles. old Irishman's pile looked like one of
the

To

Himalayan
the

had

Mountains, appearance of a

while
hill

mine
very

of

modest height.

The
piles,

boss came round, looked at the

and exploded with wrath.
an
Irishman. "

He,
here,"

too,

was

Look

he

shouted.

"Look
to

at this poor ould

man

ould enough

be your grandfather!
at your pile!

Look at his pile, and look Yez ought to be ashamed
let

of yourself to

an ould man bate ye!" But I did not feel the sting of shame, and I let my lack of feeling be known to
the boss.

We
was

had a

During
his face.

it,

the old

man

sharp argument. shovelled harder

than ever.
It

A pleased
his

look had

come

into

moment

of triumph.

Shovelling

99

The

fact

young balm of Gilead

of his out-shovelling a strong man and the boss noticing it was
to him.
I

The
I

next time
in

was

had a go at shovelling A sewer was being Cincinnati.

dug in one of the main streets, and I was put on with some other men at
seven
I

The night before morning. had wandered around the city, because
in the

I

had no money
in

hardly Still, there
either

a

get a bed. condition to begin
to
alternative.

I

was

work.
It
it

was no

work or

starve.

Indeed,

was was

work and starve, too, for when twelve came lunch time I could get I could not get a sub from no lunch.
o'clock

the boss as a navvy could
It

in England. be remembered that the must always

conditions

surrounding

labouring
pitiless

work
than

in the States are

much more

they are in England.

So work
I

there
all

was nothing

for

it

but to
eat.

day without

anything to

When we

stopped at six in the evening
to being able to conbut,

was hopeless as

tinue at the work,

as

good fortune

system of The " A ning was in vogue there. as hard as in he could. and I could not have paid once waited round for the sake of a dollar and my day's a half. He would work. I have often have to give known men in America to up work because they could neither get food nor shelter. for the contractor only a month. of in man course. and anyone the gang who could not or would not keep up with him was at once discharged. There was a each gang of shovellers who was secretly paid a quarter of a dollar a day more than the rest. starved gives the answer to the question as to why there are so many tramps in the men have . have lost the work. Added to this.ioo A Man it. and in addition to it pay. the sun was burning the life out of one. Adrift to would have I was lucky enough be taken by one of the timberers to his But for that I would boarding-house. shovelling in this sewer was very " runhard work indeed. I have seen poor. to half- give up work in less than an hour because the pace was This sort of murder-work so killing.

I had all a strained. and I was able to draw what money was coming to me and to go on my way. surrounding it it . was hardly able to eat my supper. After the day's work I as if could lie was so tired that I felt down and die. and. in the cleaner in the second place there are no degrading conditions in the third place. real Again. Give me It is intellectual labour first every place . sore feeling I over my body. I have tried both. is certainly less monotonous.Shovelling United States. I 101 was glad when the end of the month came. worked there or four days unloading in the sand-scows harbour of Vancouver. time. and I must say that my verdict is. is Perhaps the hardest shovelling of all I had an exthe shovelling of sand. cents The pay was rate first thirty an hour a of three dollars I a day. Right here I would like to explode the fallacy to the effect that extreme intellectual labour is more severe than extreme manual labour. of this in perience I British Columbia. to in- the world attaches dignity .

The people who prate of the superior exhaustive quality of brain labour not are tried invariably people both. the thing that . much harder work to shovel than is so gravel or cinders. and the it in pitching Making the same effort of strength through several hours at a stretch is most tiring. while the dignity that is attached to manual labour smacks too much of the legendary and mythical.102 A Man Adrift tellectual labour. or coal or clay. In the shovelling of clay or coal. But let us go back to the art of The reason that sand shovelling sand. or anybreaks up unevenly. I must admit that it is a politic thing to let the navvy know with all all about the hardships of intellectual labour. They give who have forth their judgment the confidence of ignorance. however. is because every time you sink your shovel into the sand you get exactly the same amount and weight upon efforts you have to make off are absolutely uniform. To be just. it. The muscles get no chance to rest or recover.

I hit upon a scheme for making the shovelling easier. and we shovelled laid. rate After working the first half day. My sole aim when as easily I was I navvying was to work as . Slight though this difference in made may be. and one had to jerk the shovel hard in the This didn't suit pitching to get it off. it into the carts. worked I. And at the end of the day a man is nothing near so tired as he would be after a day's work In at shovelling sand. The clay was apt to stick. of two dollars and a half a day. enough to cause a relaxing and tightening of still is the muscles get some chance to rest and recover through the variation Thus of the efforts made. up the soil so that the stones could be The soil was clay. got a job with a roadwith others. me a little bit. it continuous the muscles. which were drawn off by mules and dumped somewhere outWe were paid at the side the town. Vancouver I making gang.Shovelling efforts 103 pitching vary with the different weights and sizes that get upon the shovel.

as far as regard for the interest of the contractor was concerned. will find himself getting slow and stiff shovelling will and set clumsy in his is movements. and always . hardly develops a feeling for ethics. but it My certainly possessed the tangible merit of for Shovelling myself. I did not give the necessary jerk. a The reason for this because particular of muscles are developed out of all The man who proportion to the rest. will be slow and awkward. of course. After a time. that he can He give but a bad account of himself. Thus when I pitched. but I saved the method was decidedly extra jerk.IO4 A Man shovel the that it Adrift possibly could without getting the sack. a full shovel's weight to swing each time. a man who works at being easier begin to find himself I mean that he getting muscle-bound. if he ever gets into a fight. The result was was always half-filled I with clay. only threw. half a shovelful into the cart at every pitch. immoral. I had. therefore. has become muscle-bound will find.

. but he will be unable to strike a blow that is anywhere near in proIt grieves me strength. is the easiest man going to beat in a fight. for the And good when you are prodding him of his health. All you have to do is to keep out from him. the navvy. see that he doesn't get hold of you.Shovelling in 105 blows. the way be of the other man's stronger than his opponent. to have to say that my once-upon-a-time He may much portion to his comrade.

and a mattress. He where the meals were was pounding on a gong. and had not yet broken I had walked up the from New York into bargain a door distance of about eighteen miles. look round generally. 19 was late in the afternoon when I got a job at Shaft Connelly.IX. 1 06 . I after the same way was glad when for I six o'clock came supper-time my fast that day. and see which bunk bunks shanty that I would have to were in arranged in sleep the in. told at The to foreman. Tom me come on with the seven o'clock. The sleeping something bunks are arranged in the fo'castle In each were two blankets of a ship. so I went night shift over to the shanty to wait for supper. Chinaman stood outside the A of the shanty served. IT AT SHAFT 19.

I didn't miss it. but not a dirty mob. They from had the magnetism comes actual contact with the earth. all represented. The white races of the grime earth were nearly English. steaming hot coffee and tea. and Russian spoken and shouted all at once. The supper was good and wholesome. where a load of grimed navvies were pouring forth from the up-cage. to be sure. Nothing that of the down- trodden atmosphere about them. You heard French. And other languages. good . and there was plenty of it cold. noisy crowd. They were ing a grimy mob. They seemed to ground. German. spring up out of the was to get to the first laying of the table. from all places around. It was a jolly. sliced meat. The idea Missing it would mean that you would have to wait. There is a difference between and dirt. What shanty ! a mob of us there was in the Eating and drinking and shoutand laughing and talking. from the sleeping-shanty.At Men Shaft 19 107 rushed from every direction from the mouth of the shaft. too.

orders to this effect in You I heard badly-twisted languages of After meal. The corners of them fitted into slides that were fastened along the straight. broke to which the cage was suspended. down. They steep sides of the shaft. fell to like in life a wolf. and let down by a powerwere pulled up ful engine that stood off about thirty If the wire yards away. as the other went One went up cages. which fastened on to the . all it I kinds. sliced tomatoes that were delicious. How knives and rattled ! forks " and ! plates clashed and Hey " ! here John. sweet corn. potatoes. felt enjoyed that that I could tackle At seven of o'clock I stood with a crowd men in the cage. and fragrant. a powerful spring suddenly pushed out two immense steel claws or catches. a mountain. After all.io8 A Man I Adrift bread and butter. busy. bring us some more meat a fellow would shout to the silent. rushing Chinaman. there well is a lot when you can the eat and heartily. We were ready to There were two go down the shaft.

lined with huge timbers. Thus the cage was held. They So said could wait calmly till help the man who invented the spring and catches. keep the water which dripped from the roof of the tunnel from going down their necks. and the men were saved from being dashed to death at the bottom. . I caught a little blurred glimpse of a straight. Suddenly we sank down into the thick black gloom of the shaft. came. We seemed stopped to suddenly.At Shaft 19 109 big wooden beams lining the shaft. the shaft was but eight hundred feet deep. threatening I black wall. at And which we were sinking was it seemed as if we were after never going to get to the bottom. Candles and lamps were lighted now as we were sinking down the shaft. and a whizzing in the head. Some of the crowd had candles. lamps fastened in the front of their These hats were shaped like sailors' so as to sou'-westers. felt The pace terrific. and tin oil little kettle-shaped hats. a sinking sensation in the pit of the stomach. to what though me be an eternity.

Out of the cage we standing beneath got. As we clank! stood in the tunnel It we heard a sounded weirdly and curiously through the stillness and darkness. till The human gnomes would the tunnels all met and formed one great tunnel Through this tunnel twenty-eight miles long. water was to come from Croton for the people of New York It was a tremendous job.no A Man Adrift and we were now earth. burrow. The contractors boarded them at the rate of four dollars a week. and to drink. north and south. the roof of the tunnel which ran north and south into the could hear in places the steady drip. burrow. extreme points north and south to which . It was a mule drawing a car along clank! the line of short-gauge rails which ran along the floor of the tunnel from the north and south headings to the bottom The headings were the of the shaft. and a dollar and a half a day was the lowest wages paid. north and south. tunnels extending from Croton to New One York. thousands of men were at work. There were twenty-eight drip of water.

when bottom by the mule to the cage at the it of the shaft.At the rock. picks and shovels and drills from a car on the way. but enough for us do the work. to see to uncertain light. shattered out from the bench and heading by the dynamiteblast of the last shift. into position their machines the foot of the bench was a great mass of broken rock. Then would be hoisted . was drawn. I was in the pick- gang at the bottom of the bench a huge mass of rock shaped like a step. Other and got our and machines men were following us from the next down-cage. belonged to the north heading gang. drillers Shaft 19 pierced in through the had Now we We We the north heading. This we had to At load into the car. Our light came from candles and lamps and torches ranged along the wall near us A fitful. on the top of which was the narrow heading where the machine men and and-sbovel their helpers were now and getting drills. had tramped slowly along the tunnel in were up about five hundred yards. which full.

crouching men. pieces of rock our hands. out triangular sections of the rock.H2 A Man Adrift up and dumped out on the ground on top. I Now and then The grimy men. Clang clang clang sledges were striking the heads of the steel hand -drills as they were being ! ! ! turned and held into the rock by peering. While the mule was away we were loading up another car. we lifted into big the car with for the The We used our shovels small and crumbled pieces. Holes were being drilled into the bench. drilling. crunching and Holes were being drilled at an angle from either side of the heading. In down perpendicularly awkward parts of the heading. Up above us in the heading the machine drills were whirring. smooth faces of the seven -pound sledges as they were swung round and round by strong-armed. or bench. Whirrrr whirrrr . men were hand- would look up and see flashing the bright. where a machine drill could not be got to work. so that the dynamite would blow eating into the rock. which we had pushed up ourselves from a little siding.

and the power of blood and bone and muscle. and shouts of " as a fellow Look out there would pinch down with " I a lever a big piece of rock from the top of would jump out of the the bench. much. dripping down had to look us from the roof. It was a chaos of whirring and crunching and ringing of driven steel and hissing of the escaping exhaust of air and crushing of rocks into the car. We all were gnomes gathered here from H parts of . for now and then in Water was We the tunnels pieces fell from above and men were killed. deep down. as the great.At whirrrr Shaft the 19 113 were going machine-drills. fighting and crushing our way through the dark hidden rock. upon out for the roof. along. We way us. Fighting our way with and air and hammers and bursting steel frightful dynamite. driven by compressed air. We were gnomes buried deep. We But we didn't think of that just worked and worked There was a curious overpowering smell of earth penetrating everything. jagged rock crashed past dripping.

of light could see nothing but blackness. and darkness and shadows and We We rock old with the age of thousands upon thousands of centuries. solid. shouting didn't conversation you. A Man We Adrift In were working down fitful glarings were as blind men fighting. for all that we were going in a line was straight absolutely. And at the same time there were twenty . at least you . with the fellow if working alongside Even you know his language. iron rock We But that were slowly fighting in blackness. one hardly noticed the time The noise and the curious picturesqueness of the surroundings gave You could carry on a one a stimulus.H4 the earth. Fifty-six gangs of gnomes who all time would meet. piercing eye after of Science. so going. of The work was navvying more interesting than work usually.eight tunnels going as we were going fifty- six headings in in all. in And were going a straight line abso- lutely guided by the sure. Hour heading hour passed in the north Shaft 19.

for exchange some ideas the navvies had a tunnel Shaft I slang as sailors have a ship slang. away in safe places. ! subdued And drip of the water . darkness. If men spoke tones. so I knew the ropes. 19 was not the first shaft at which had worked. Twelve o'clock was upon us before we knew where we were. at all. in a body. they spoke the drip ! in low. and walked down the and sat on and around the down- washed it cage to eat our grub. The sudden silence after the noise and movement believe affected us. None of us had much The spell of midnight.At could Shaft to 19 115 manage with him. Some of down with cold tea the fellows produced bottles of beer which We they had stowed to say. This meal was a quiet one. A We heading tunnel. or water. and gloom was falling upon us. You would part of the hardly that we were same at crowd who had had supper together seven o'clock in the evening. was brought down for us in big baskets to left the the bottom of the shaft. and we stopped to cold luncheon get something to eat.

We had The they drillers were getting ready were sponging out through the the holes drilled And then two wooden boxes. If a box fell from the arms of the it. but there was a difference in the men. It was one o'clock in the morning now. were carefully carried up into the heading. and two silent o'clock into three o'clock. and we were back again in the heading. for was carrying frightful might mean sudden and death for every man . rocks ghosts. as But was as into if using picks the life of tools men had gone if the and they were but attendant At half-past five we had cleared up all the loose rocks. they were round as ghosts. The work was going on as before. And one merged into two o'clock.n6 A Man Adrift from the roof gave a weirdness to the overhanging silence. mers and the They were swinging hamrocks and it and shovels. Men lifting moved like phantoms. about a foot and a half square each. it man who of us. long night. to blast. They as were becoming so o'clock silent.

tell what amount of shock One can never it off. ing I near had been down in tunnels before when the the dynamite had been set off by connecting battery. By this time the holes in the bench filled.At each box was Shaft 19 117 It filled with dynamite. The shock was all -seizing. horrible shock to let was If you go limp. and therefore knew what was coming. shape of big cartridges from ten to twelve inches long. and got waited. braced yourself hard it was all the worse for you. will set We and which loaded up the picks and shovels drills and machines be into two cars tunnel far we pushed down to the enough away from the actual Then we destroying effect of the blast. primed and and the heading boss was standheading us the and were ready to touch off dynamite with an electric battery. some distance behind them. to The best way stand the tremendous. yourself Even your power of will could make no . Dynamite is was in the an ugly thing to handle. He touched if off.

Your body. Its power was confined and kept line. without being dashed to death. your brain. it was as you were standing inside a gigantic You felt the shock of death cannon. and the sun was up. After the blast we got into the cage and went up into the clear morning air. ourselves We over washed to and then went breakfast. it would headway against it be better if you did not know it was coming at all. It was summer-time. Imagine it! You were two hundred yards away from a terrific explosion that rushed space twenty by twenty feet. your blood. the And after that shanty to get we turned in. your will were struck violently and horribly. It was fine to see and feel it after being down in the darkness for eleven hours. if along a in a direct In fact. .n8 A Man Adrift In fact. intact just as is the exploding powder in the bore of a cannon.

ever.X. the town will be swept away by the overThus there is rushing of the great river. balls cards shuffle The gambling-houses 119 are on Royal . a shadow full Orleans. It is a French town. out. the waters of which are eighteen inches higher than the level of the town. but the inhabitants say that. and that ever hanging over New But the town is gay and bright of life. night night year roll. IN PRISON NEW ORLEANS upon a swamp. year whirr. is a picturesque town built It lies in the form of a crescent round a bend of the Mississippi. A levee has been built to protect it. for has become out. Americanised. Here Wheels on for gambling goes on in day in in day out. some time or another.

white-capped and white-aproned. may serve it to you across stall. All may enter. The after gold a passion that brings level. A Man Adrift fashion. is men to a common How Market! quaint and beautiful the French Here may be got the most the world. An a Around is in the market is the huny and But there bustle of buying and selling. night. The tramp may rich. jostle elbows with the well-groomed blood. A man need not be ashamed of meanness for of dress. tions. He is welcome to share the light and warmth. it matters not how shabby the attire. They are fitted up in luxurious They may be blamable institu- but at least they are democratic. and there is no one to censure or to eject. to toe. If a man has no to get himself a place to sleep at money he may go in and sit down.120 Street. It is like that of some rare old warms and soothes from crown old negro. Its delicious coffee in effect upon one wine. or how disreputable and low down the appearance. lust no one notices or is criticises. in the hurry and bustle a .

and a dish of delicious soup hours. promiscuous everywhere. flower-girls arrange . the Creole patois negroes pass. baskets are you are hard up and hungry in this town. which shine from the tops It is .In Prison suggestion of 121 not the It is languor. you get there between I have gone into this certain saloon fast. you may go to a saloon on the corner of Royal Street and get a sumptuous free lunch as much as ever you can eat of the best food. wheezy tie voices . and at peace with the I world in general. electric very wide. People hurry and bustle of the North. Canal Street at night presents one of the most beautiful city sights of the world. cry out the merits of their wares in shrill. chattering . If benedictions. and is lit up by lights. A if from the chef will serve you with a cut joint. and horses and up bunches of flowers drivers shower carts back and start again . and you possess a dime. suffering from a twenty-four hours' and full have come out into the street again and satisfied.

voices.122 of columns. In this town I spent a month in prison. ! work A bright and and golden. A Man Adrift in the These columns stand centre of the street. But still ******* it lies is the town for bright and gay under the shadow of destruction. who work dogs during the day for roustabouting on a Mississippi steamboat is the hardest it about New air is full and forget imaginable at night over their songs. the clearness hangs death. The effect of the lights piercing in a straight line through the distance is fine. clear. Overhanging is the eternal threat of the river. extending along for miles. happy-go-lucky like of They are a fellows. On the levee at night the negro roustabouts collect together and sing quaint. But in the air there lurks disease. . and the harmonic lot effects they get are peculiar and beautiful. Often they have fine strange part-songs. Orleans Its strange town. dread and foul. and its sunshine And beautiful orange In trees are in the gardens.

will arrest the three of you. and how much money we had. and asked him if that were the way they did things in the " Land of the Free. I pointed out to him the injustice of the whole thing. and what we were going to do. He at once began to question us as to who we were. " you ? I had two and the other fellows you can't had none. " you have ten If show me I that dollars apiece." he on the look-out said.In Prison I 123 was standing on the levee talking with two other sailors. in in sight.of unloading from a ship. We submitted to the arrest. I explained to him that we were for a job . " How much money have dollars." But he was obdurate. and that we had freight been working together lately on John " No Diamond's plantation." concluded the policeman. When I found out that he was really going to do what he said. I had a notion to knock him down and get But there were other policemen away. . matter. when a policeman came along. and it would only have ended our being shot.

Adrift We were shut up on the taken. The fact of being arrested did not seem to weigh much on any of us. with the sense of the degradation of being and bought and sold. It is easy for it and natural to make merry with people who are in the same boat as yourself. and that night we were with some others in the calaboose There were about twenty of us in all negroes and white men. mournful timbre. compared notes. Through it ran the sadness of the life of the slave. He sang "Carry me back to Ole Virginny" the song of the slave who had been sold flogged. and sang One negro had a most beautiful It was a voice of sweet. We were comforted by the curious philosophy that None goes with poverty and misfortune. I sent out for I some beer with the two dollars had we were allowed this privilege if we paid and we made merry.124 A Man levee. of us had had the requisite ten dollars So necessary to ensure us our liberty. We told stories. voice. . songs. we made the best of it. The man who sang but he was born had not been a slave.

and power took the precaution all the strangers they could They were afraid the lay their hands on. It may have been that it was cheaper to clap them into not only have to gaol. It was not till a long time after that I It learned the real reason of our arrest. His voice seemed to chime in with the spirit of the situation. of arresting Such a simple thing as the stranger being an alien could be easily got over by supplying him with a name and an address. we were nothing but white and black slaves together. other side would bribe them to vote. seems that an election was going the party in on. did Why the the party in power not bribe strangers themselves was rather a puzzle. but they could even make a profit on them while in prison . This negro sang more than anyone else. After all.In Prison 125 away from the place where he was born. for they would give them no money. And so the night wore away. is The buying and the staple selling of votes one of industries of the United States.

but afraid I am only produced a bad Americans don't him. But now After my prejudice had received a shock.A Man by charging up State. prejudice I had inherited a against everything English with my Irish blood. their Adrift maintenance to the When we Justice stiff were brought up before the spoke out first time in I next morning. I talked like this to the Justice. . while America only boasted in a blatant way about them. impression upon like their country or their institutions to that I be criticised. For the the I my life was proud to own that I was an Englishman. everything was said and done. freedom. and strong. We were sent to prison for a month. I said I was glad that Fate had so willed it that I had been born in the north of England. England was absolutely the freest country in the She practised the principles of world.

to suffer can have no upon him in the way of making him downcast. or crime. a habit man who is given to the of thinking passes through many Shut off from the world mental stages. harsh world into which he has it. The small.In Prison 127 ii IN prison. ripening for experience. . man is made of the thinnest tissue paper imaginable. which he effect is The made reason. been thrown has no power to cramp He passes through a curious. the whole of his mind as it were sees passes in review before him. imagination becomes freer more powerful. for it will require but a slight effort of his intellect to show him that he is being made a scapegoat to suffer because that he is being made been bold enough to realise in action an idea he shares in common with other he has The* partition that separates the criminal from what is called the honest men. outside. He His into its most obscure fold and depth.

I fact. together the negroes were put I don't In the daytime we shared in common the freedom of The negroes and whites themselves distinction apart. perhaps The was more sharply drawn here than in the world outside. There were about as many negroes as whites in this prison. but the it certainly contempt Indeed. But for the failures and hard-ups and unfortunates the law has not only punishment.128 A Man in Adrift HAD committed no crime. for Better In men I than I had committed bitterly It crime. it for desperate law-breaker. was so stupid has be thrown into prison for nothing. shows practically that it has a respect for him. but contempt. usually kept race however. the big yard. The no law punishes. regretted that had to not done something. but that I was none the better I I realised that. in two great cells. The whites were herded Where know. There was a white captain of the yard .

Everyone of us suffered from hunger. with each other. carried heavy clubs. I . This was of their respective races. for it made the time hang talk wearily on one's hands. sentenced. and a pint of alleged coffee in the morning and The bread was nothing near evening. enough to satisfy us.In Prison and a black captain of the yard in 129 prisoners favour with the chief warder. eating the bread for we would carefully watch fell. used to wake up at night dreaming that I was When we were eating plentifully. and pick up and eat the crumbs that astonishing It is can taste when a how delicious dry bread man is really hungry. no work for the prisoners to do beyond the cleaning out of the cells. off to told keep order who were amongst the men These captains they had the power to knock down any man who was There was disorderly or insubordinate. however. and unfortunate. I was hungry I during the whole month I was there. We could We wore the clothes in which we were For food we were given a small loaf of bread each day.

Now a nigger would clutch a loaf from a white man. They were based on the same principles as the laws governing a country or any society modified. These laws had been made by prisoners. The warders would stand off enjoying it. he was remembered for it. prisoners. and had been handed from one set to another for years. wolf-like in There were about fifty men in the cell which I was. and we governed ourwhile in there selves by a code of laws. of course. clear. We had a president. by the surroundings. a judge. Hungry white men and black men would sprawl and fighting like tumble in a heap together. and when he came back again to the prison he was . and other If a man showed a particular officers. cries. a sheriff. aptitude for the exercise of any function.130 A Man Adrift To amuse themselves the warders would sometimes pitch loaves of bread to the The sight was most sickening. man would And as they tear it fought they would send out sharp. wolves for the bread. Now the white from him again.

The trial was rather long.In Prison elected possible. issue issue at stake treated in the was a grave one. trial and was as serious as a could be. And in won my My speech for the defence was applauded. I crime was a severe "paddling. case. The was law. . One of the laws of the cell was that no man should steal another's bread. a man did flogging with a Whilst was steal another man's bread/ He as was found out and tried for the offence." as it was there. must say that the judge allowed the end me I rather a free hand. 131 it to the office. cell. The punishment called. and same spirit that a grave a recognised court of would be in The the I chief warder stood at the door of listening to the trial. of the the cell The judge counsel for appointed me defence. for this belt. and the man was let go. cross-examined the witnesses for the I prosecution. if were at all The warders never interfered with the laws of the prisoners.

most intelligent-looking man. had been ignominiously gathered in with the rest of us. or sit We yard where we would walk or lounge tell down and each other our histories with the frankness of a common ban. who had time in prisons. could not show ten dollars. and so could not help thinking that his was a profession which called into play a tremendous amount The burglar of daring and natural talent.132 A Man rv Adrift How above clear and beautiful was in ! the sky us the great spent the day about. face. it break into a house the kind of house I to break into. He man He when knew every to twist and turn of on. with blue eyes and an indomitable expression of talked of burglary as a would talk of any other profession. Also there was a young English fellow He was little more from Birmingham. . men under There was one man in spent a good deal of He was a burglar a particular. too. because he.

while the other saw that all he turned out his wealth. A man was tied up. I must confess that the idea had for me I a great charm. This young with blue eyes. The stocks was rack. He thought that we would do well if we took the road It took two. Men was punished were bound up and torreally a tured in a contrivance called the stocks. and I seemed to take his fancy. than a boy. open face. he explained. Though there pline. to together. had been a highway robber. laid upon it. still was the hardly any discibreaking of the few exist prison-rules that did terribly. doing something. hold up a man properly one to cover him fellow with the pistol. a trifle hard. well.In Prison 133 He had a fine. And at the worst I would have the consolation of into gaol for knowing that had got Besides. one could live and there was the excitement of never knowing what would turn up next. and tortured by means of stretching and twisting the The place where this joints of his legs. racking was done was in a small shanty ..

Adrift painted black which stood off over in I never saw a the corner of the yard. had some dispute. of a The screaming The effect man thing that can never in agony be forgotten. we were After being tortured the taken to the hospital. look at each other fear- In these horrible moments even lost. The cries of the tortured man seemed to get into the blood. and affect the beating The cowed negroes and of the heart whites would fully. and the negro " a white son of a Com.134 A Man racked. seen a man hustled into the shanty and afterwards have heard him groaning and screaming. is a upon us as we listened to it We stood in in the yard was awful. the sense of distinction of race was We were fellow-prisoners before negroes or whites. this ." called me We ing from the mouth of a black man. for no one knew whose turn would come next. cowed and disheartened. I man would be myself came near being racked through having a quarrel with a negro. man I but I have . groups.

I . I made of a mistake. ing flat on the ground. According to the feeling of white men in the Southern States I would have been justified in I shooting him dead. went down. I had no idea what he was up to. and as I was backing away from him he suddenly the instead simply turned his flung his arms himself.In Prison insult 135 was the most odious imaginable. But here negro. if possible. striking him twice in the face. raised me clean over his realise it I head. ready to knock him down when he got He up for again. I had fallen a victim to a trick back. and try as I might I was unable to move. but he didn't strike. looked up at the negro and waited. could was lying on my upon me. Then I stood over him. His fist was raised. and then jumped at the negro. with the negro's weight Both my shoulders were touch- commonly practised by the roustabouts. stepped back. I was completely at my opponent's mercy. getting up body round and got upon his hands and knees. round and Before flung I my ankles.

my shoulder. The was in for I man who did. looked into the warder's face." This was the end of the incident. "Who to thought." struck first would be the man be racked! "I I said. " It's a damned good job he said. For thing was over in a few some reason or another the black captain of the yard who was standing near ignored the fight. The black man was magnanimous. My colour had saved me. chief the warder came I running his up. man. you're a white as he turned away. The whole seconds. He spared me. he got up from me suddenly and helped me to my feet. around Just as the crowd that had collected us was dispersing.136 As I A Man Adrift was wondering what would be the reason of this. I felt my time had come. struck first?" he demanded. I would be And fear came over me as I tortured. His eyes blazed as he laid hand heavily on it. On Sundays we attended Divine Ser- .

it 137 this.In Prison vice. if only for an hour. be better for me to work like a dog and a slave. showing Him as He suffered an awful and ignominious death. do when I Would it got out into the world again. His image was there before us. would have understood us absolutely. for We We all looked forward to was a pleasure and a relief to feel that one was a man once more. or would it be better for me to go and rob and live easy. knelt before the altar on the same terms as other men. and take my chance? Or would some curious stroke of luck happen to me that would lift me out of my present groove? Honesty and labouring with the hands only brought degradation and contempt. Strange thoughts used to to come into full my mind as I listened the rich. the founder of our religion And indeed was One who was hard up and despised. . tones of the organ playing in the little I wondered what I should prison church. The Man whose name would live while the world lasted had been a tramp and He a criminal.

took them. would sooner Christ theft. have taken the hand of the burglar than the hand of the business man. and undtrhand thing essence after all ? violence was even but right Was the very subtle of ? Religion a hypocrisy . safe theft. Not such the burglar's cowardly. I thought again. It off scot- was said that it vengeance over- was only said. As a rule the criminals who were put in prison were those whose crimes savoured somewhat of nobility. The but mean. fraud. To conquer the underhand world. meanest and worst criminals got free.138 The upon theft A Man as Adrift was based society in which we lived the principle of theft. and lying. But use blinking the fact? I thought. cunning. Or was could it be. that to follow out the teaching of the Galilean impossible? Could it be the that cowardly theft and meanness. Ministers of religion were traitors who of warped the teachings of Christ so that themselves and the State might profit. and What was the violence had to be used.

understand what effect this water would have used even upon a strong man. while the temperature of the air was about eighty far degrees. committed by saw it done with my own about it. A prisoner was suffering from pellagra. 1 and no questions asked. least forty The water must have been air. eyes. He ought to have been sent at once to the hospital. exhausted condition. stripped. He was taken and a stream of Mississippi water was To fully played upon him from the hose. Nothing was ever said The body was trundled away. into the bath-house. The warder played the hose upon him as he crouched and shivered in the bath. rounding the man was already in a weak. would be fun but this warder thought it to give him a cold bath. at degrees colder than the surBesides. I need only state that the water of the river if was not from freezing point.In Prison 139 ONE day a murder was I one of the warders. .

A cart was brought. for was in the bath-house at the time. by the huddled-up way in which he was lying. " " Isn't he sham- ming ? and turned the dead man over on his side.140 I A Man Adrift than a minute. and placed my hand It was still. " Lift I him out. I and he was dead in less saw the whole thing. either Nothing more was said about him or over him." I said." "Let up. The man I reached. I . " Dead as a stone." he ordered. dead. "He's The warder stopped the hose and came " over to the side of the bath. And warder's burial " was the end of him. lifted got into the bath and this out the body. and he was trundled away." was his service. had gone. The warder was still playing the hose upon him. over his heart. and I lifted the murdered man in. cleaning up the I knew the man was dead floor." I said to the warder. then. The Lift him out. Are you sure " ? he asked me. then.

to my liberty. ******* Curiously enough. But where would I I get the meal from I when did get out. whom I I could go New have Still. I did not feel as much thought should feel at the I prospect of getting my liberty again. know where. thought of most was getting a of The the full chance would have of meal again. To be hungry straight on end for a whole month is terrible. would be glad But I had grown to like some that I of my fellow-prisoners. and to there in was no one Orleans. So when the morning came for my .In Prison don't 141 if dog. would drift away from the two men who would be on the same day. in time one would get used to suppose almost any I I set thing that surroundings. had no money. Going out would felt mean I parting from them. just as he were a when I the end of the month drew elation as I near. a lot to a let out with me Companionship means drifts man who about the world alone.

said he would be on hand to meet when I came out. and shook hands with my mates in the cell when door. clean. It would be a fine thing to walk around. The The young Birmingham fellow had gone out a couple of days before.142 release I I A Man felt Adrift rather sad. My I feeling like a man once more. The ones I had on were common and shabby-looking. others. spirits began to rise. But I felt that He me this it was rather a struck forlorn I hope. felt afraid to face things And somehow The again. And who I ! what might turn of a street might on the corner up? find a purse Then I would go and buy myself a good breakfast a first-class breakfast and after I would get myself some clothes. Besides. month's forced inaction had lessened of initiative. came to unlock the He my name with some and we followed him out into the warder called out . me that had better face circumcould tell stances alone. my power surroundings and the bad food had taken the spirit out of me.

thought. . after some formality. As I crossed the street a was passing by looked and. I at woman who me curiously. out through the great gate. pityingly. Here. I A feeling of shame came over me. and as fast as I hurried away could.In Prison 143 we were let the yard and into the office of the prison.

directions The only of escape was by a narrow strip of way hill-land which ran to the north up into Texas. water the yellow water of the big river had The made a twelve-hundred-yard crevasse in the levee below New Orleans.XLNO I MONEY! WAS puzzled as to what to do. and there seemed to be no chance for I me to go in the direction wished to go. to New Orleans. the east. was everywhere Mississippi. Water. I wanted to go east. But between me and sheet the town was a water. Sale fact was the place where was The 144 . It was swallowing up the country from three the south. the west. The country was flooded. two-hundred-mile of The water was so high that steamboats were plying over the country between Bayou Sale and New Orleans. I Bayou at.

been all right I could have tramped it. She was moored K . I had no money to pay my luck for being in Louisiana If things had during the flood season. What a fool I had ! been off Why. And there was a good and sufficient reason. steamboat was to go to New Orleans to a in half an hour. So their began to think. Passing families their me were and carrying what they could of hill-land. They out. however. belongings up the narrow strip of They were homeless. fare. it was as easy as rolling A a log. flashed Suddenly the way out of the difficulty upon me. had been flooded the to Those who had money New pay their way were going Orleans on the steamboats. to majority of them were going up north the way I didn't want But the great to go.No Money of the steamboats 145 running to where I wanted to go did not help me. I cursed my But I to swim it was a large niggers order.

I swaggered on to the steamboat with an air of lordly ease. come round for fares till the boat had horribly at been out tell at least an hour. This would mean a month's imprisonment at least. that I Then I would him calmly couldn't had no off into money. nigger abouts were getting freight aboard her. I nodded to the swearing. You'd have thought I owned it. through So I waited. They put me the water they couldn't turn back and they couldn't eat me. As The country had been covered . one could see the awful desolation caused by the flood. My plan was a The collector would not simple one. was that they might The have me only danger arrested when we got to New Orleans. and the big white mate was blaspheming The roust- them as was the custom. But I had long ago realised that risks to get one must take some life.146 tree rise A Man in Adrift slight which stood on the top of a the ground. raucous-voiced mate. the boat steamed along.

else 147 The sugar everything bodies of houses. in my reverie by He was standing The moment had come. and ruined." speaking I matter-of-fact might flood have or in been I way. its side. said in a calm. of me. fashion. We and villages. straight " into his eyes.No Money as with a great winding sheet. waiting. or had up on Occasionally a wooden house was to be seen floating on to the high land. I was awakened from front at I the collector of fares. was hand. He smiled He thought was . had been The been horses and cows and sheep were floating about. looked smiled easily. It was a scene of ruin and desolation. crop. The crisis Now I must play my I part. passed by immersed towns All that was to be seen of them were the tops of the highest houses and the spires of their churches. about the the weather. property. made I the remark a casual also. and I have no money. They had either left behind become unmanageable when the owners tried to drive them in the hurry.

the situation. was surely not in earnest. still smiling. by he My dear man. But I gave him a second and And then the repeated my assertion. putting two and two together. I course. Of " That's all right. He grasped smile died from his face." ^ "You take damned . Shell out!" He had evidently seen my lordly swagger as I came on to the boat. and. left Orleans. and Americans have always time " for the appreciation of a joke. couldn't I I swim to stop where I So to did for me do it the only thing came on board." to I replied. had come the conclusion that style at once to of that when a man and ease said he was hard up he smile. " " in hell do you mean then?" aboard the boat.148 A Man Adrift joking. have noticed. guess." easy." he said. "What coming asked. As you the will is probably flooded. my reason for coming aboard the boat must be plain you. I I country And can't very well New was. either. and became indignant. Come on.

whole situation. And. But one I have weighed that. in playing a . unafraid game. face. and getting into gaol into the bargain." out the money pay The mate came forward and eyed me foot.No Money "Of course. fellow's "Ho!" gall to he shouted to the " blaspheming. This with- had the come aboard his fare. " I've a good mind to winding up with He knock hell out of you. 149 want You don't me to weep about it." " You're a beauty.voiced mate. raucous. let forth a torrent of blasphemy. do you?" " Do you know that we can put you in gaol for this " " ? I Of course all know to it." He laughed a he remarked. He was a hard big. I to from head to eyed him too. stiff. anyway. Besides. powerful fellow." I had taken the man's measure in had taken the measure of the I fact. with a brutal. I'm not gaol yet. There was a risk of my getting used up. cool. My only chance was . doesn't know what's going in little. happen.

" Look said close here. behaved very decently ." I. hell out of me. and looking him straight and hard " Don't talk of . partner. If I've broken the law. an) how. Do he you mind working your passage?" concluded suddenly. there's an end of it. I'll take the consequences when I I get to I New and Orleans. had to do what did. Come down into the stokehole and get New pass coal. " Not a bit." I replied. and when Orleans you can help we to unload freight. " his face softened a little. Well. but you've got grit. brought and left me down me with into the stoke- the firemen who.in the eyes. damn me." He hole. by the way. and moved slightly. I'd like to see you or any other man on the boat try it on.150 I A Man Adrift to going up him. Perhaps we won't go hard on you. knocking decided instantly as to the handling of the mate." He But I glared at me. "All to right. Then kept my eye hard on his.

just lay and chatted till the journey's end. When we got there I helped to unload the freight. 151 A of deck- how I had tackled the collector and the mate. as agreed. hand had brought down news to me. "Get a was done. and faced up I Royal Street.No Money They were white men. I And when this was going down the gang-plank. my They gave me a of which I stiff pull of whisky was in need and they gave me some They wouldn't let me grub. . As everyone was stock went up. " Here's a quarter. and drink. the mate called me back. afraid of the mate. taking the quarter with went ashore. I shovel any coal for them. was in New Orleans." thanks. I And." he said.

For to Pacific Railroad this they carried to Fort Donald. A snow shed is a great wooden platform built along the 15* . Fort Donald was on the east side of the great mountain chain. They to ship labourers into the Rockies so as to use them for the build- snow sheds. when you came simply wanted ing of to look into it. and was loafing around Toronto. Going was the easiest thing in the world.XII. I THROUGH THE ROCKIES sailoring on Lake Ontario. in British Columbia a place three thousand miles west of Toronto. All one had to do was you pay the Canadian Company a dollar. Carrying a man three thousand miles for a dollar seems to be a charitable sort of deed for a railway company to indulge in. when suddenly an idea struck me to go out to the HAD been Rockies. But it wasn't so charitable. after all.

Through mountain side the the Rockies 153 to for the purpose of keeping snow from sliding down on the railway track. and. or even for the awkward pitching of a steamer in for the rolling of heavy smooth. country of mountains and great rivers and lakes. when the train stopped at a station one still could feel this whirr. going hour rumble of the hour. stopped at a little town on the edge A We of Lake Superior. longed a sailing vessel. The country we passed through was wild and fine. weather. night after I nerves. steady. Here we got out of with some others. It took us five days to get to our descontinuous railtination. train. The brain had adopted the sensation permanently. The. got upon the day. It seemed as if the grinding whirr of the wheels Even beneath us would go on for ever. above all. climbed down lake. the train. day after night. the rocks to take a drink from the The water was the clearest water . I. and five days 1 way swift after travelling is no joke. gave one an impression of vastness.

A it beautiful. I had never seen the prairie before. lone than the ocean Looking out sense of grass- upon brought upon stillness. one a from awe and covered A limitless plain. It stretched out wide and far like a great sea. prairie. man long before a be lowered. vast I upon. depth. stretching horizon .154 I A Man Adrift had ever seen. It was a lake to sail I would scarcely have liked forbidding waters. cold. death-like in its coldness. Off out in it I could see the glint of deep. The waters were And till then the train went on and on entered the stretching. it immense. although the sun shone out strongly. there was something Indeed. It seemed it to me almost more wide and itself. black which tells of immense blue. chill. with lake. it was cold and fresh. and. deep whenever a steamer in had heard said that sailor fell overboard from a effort Lake Superior no and rescue him. was made was to stop for the life chilled out of the boat could so cold.

. at Fort Donald at last. to were the Rockies There was nothing for us but to go to work building sheds.Through to the Rockies to 155 horizon. last At we came to the foot-hills of the Rockies. Here we were and around us. seen tough things done through drinking whisky. And we it got on well together. rugged mountains. and seeming begin and end in eternity. If do now snow- the a man wouldn't work he wouldn't get anything to eat. hailing parts of the world. men three thousand When Fort Donald the men had they were in to work at the snow sheds whether they liked or not. And the foot-hills changed to great. mainly because was almost impossible for us to get whisky. and therein lay the true inwardness of the company's reason for carrying miles for a dollar. We from all were a mixed-up crowd. It makes a man forget that the other fellow I've is a man too. Whisky is a bad thing. rising higher ! and higher. We were nearing Fort Donald.

but mountain air and hard in work make a man able to forego silver and fine napery. and we were kept at ten hours a day. and supper we would go over we slept. Some of us blasted out rock from the mountain side. wooden shanty. to the big By after this time supper was ready. fast of big game. Others again were now and then sent out to hunt for fresh meat. At twelve we stopped an hour for dinner. charged us three dollars and a for board.when. The others were felling mountains were We ing. and after that we kept on till six o'clock in the evening. a sort of here-grab-this. where There we smoked and told . The work was rough. They half a The board was good plenty of meat and bread and coffee and The meals were served up vegetables.1 -throw it-at-you way. while it and sawing up big trees.1 56 A Man Adrift A dollar week and a half a day was our pay. were called up at six in the mornfull and by seven we had had breakand were just commencing work. and pay-day came once a month.

He and I end of our day's had been working side to the by side in the pickaxe gang. here was the man who had left his country for his country's good. Suddenly . sing. uncouth clod. I who had a beautiful tenor I shall heard him never forget the first time It was in the evening. The crowd was interesting. was the man who had about him that curious air of self poise. hard men a crowd that a strong man might lead to the freeing of a country. the heritage of high birth and social advantage. however. And here was the poor. This was furnished with a mattress.Through all the Rockies till 157 to sorts in. remember one fellow he was an I Englishman voice. The men had not only come from every place. born with the marks And of labour slavery upon him. and two blankets. Taken as a whole. they impressed me as a crowd of good. when we were near work. of yarns it was time turn Every man of us had a bunk to himself. but Here they had come from every class. a hard pillow. or to the crushing of a country.

I and found myself thirty dollars ahead. wanted it to get to the Pacific Coast. finest Italian singers in the All of us was singstopped working ing an old English song a beautiful song.158 A Man Adrift he began to sing. but he would tell me I I have nothing. lone mountains. could buy food at the Thus Company's stores along the way. But I had somewhere from ship was five hundred miles away. Poor boy! heard his song I threw up work after two months' time. or. though I have heard the world. times since. the main difficulty of the journey was rethirty dollars I For . nearly a month's tramp. I He can't describe the effect it had upon us out there out there in the clear air of the wild. thought of him many Who was he? What was I he? and why was he there? Years have gone by since in the Rockies. indeed. in my mind to it Vancouver. and I was thrilled as I had never been thrilled before. at once. since. asked the Englishman a lot of questions after that. that will live while the white race lives.

But a hardy man will take big chances when he wants to be on the move. And. I the Rockies all 159 I was right as long as had money that is.Through moved. or to preach about. where the rails had yet I to be laid. and the right of way. one morning. I remember It was clear and bright the morning well. would guide me right up the coast. and to take chances on being done to sleep out One had up either by the Indians or wild animals. Com- pany's rails were laid two hundred miles of the way. a pannikin. as far as getting away from the work was concerned. Hard labour very well to talk about. I and beautiful in the middle of June. I couldn't miss the Pacific Coast for the by any manner of means. to be sure. So started was so glad to get away from I the monotonous going to is all I labour. every night. even though was knew not what. My outfit consisted of a pair of blankets. and . but doing it is quite a different thing. which were strapped across my back. some biscuits and bacon. besides.

me a or. time the scenery impressed It me but was great and wild and finely coloured. to tell the truth. at that little. or a brush at close quarters. No. I wouldn't for give the It is part awkward to handle in a quick rush. and I had fifty cartTo my ridges in my ammunition belt. still. mind a revolver and a knife are the heeled as far as handiest weapons going that is. ing hard months. but. and you are apt to get done up before you rifle. better I suppose ought to say something about the magnificent scenery of the Rockies. I carried a forty-four calibred revolver and a broad sheath knife.160 some A Man coffee Adrift And I was well and sugar. weapons were concerned. give a good knife. tenth of a rap a know where you revolver I are. when . in the middle of it for two The poetry had been knocked out of me. But I had had enough mountain scenery I had been workto last me a lifetime. Fine scenery doesn't he's impress a or man he's much when hungry. if you've got to look out for a surprise.

was face to face with things face listen to to face with myself. It is so terrible. and why I was going. The lonesomeness him in of all is what strikes a time hard to like feel this. I knew I was going to the I had but what then? Pacific Coast been going ever since I was a lad. What had I I done that I should be a pariah and a the tramp. It is that you are absolutely and utterly alone you might fall down and die. the world without education or any other advantage. was going. I tramp of my feet. And was so tired of it all. These frightful. lonely I mountains made used to me think. and there would be no one round to hold a that cup of water to your lips. labouring class the I had been thrown out into slave class. L .Through alone and get out of it the Rockies and wondering if 161 he'll tired it alive. I and wonder where It seemed to me labourer and a vagrant ? that the main reason was because I be- longed to the low. and I had become a labourer on land and sea a human buffet for the world's blows.

clear I Everyseemed from many sides at once. all out. it mapped I out. and I unslung my revolver and determined to take a rest for good and all. too. effect was and then One jumped one sank down like a like. strange days the days was tramping through the mountains. the whole business. rag. and put the muzzle of the revolver under my right ear so as to get the base of the brain. sud- denly came up before my mind. . My whole in it. came a peaceful is more apt to come from a jagged knife wound that face and over the A distorted face lets I the life out slowly. But just as trigger I put my finger on the began to think in a way I had I never thought before. And I felt so lonely. I began to And one day I grew sick of despair.1 62 me A Man in Adrift to These and other thoughts used to I come the long. and I knew exactly what the violently. I had seen men shot through the brain. look. and everything thing was so to see things I had done and vivid. in my mind. life.

And I stood up again and cursed the earth and everything in it. first. But less. I'd try I feelings And and analyse my sat down on a log I and wondered. I my own fault. I thought. Honestly. self? Why shouldn't kill mybut said What was there before me misery and hard knocks? People that everyone in the world got at some time or another a square chance. and I had stayed in the mire.Through This is the Rockies that 163 when the way men think And I they are drowning. it had not been felt. I felt I that I had never had such a chance. I intended to kill myself neverthe- However. brought down the muzzle of the revolver. No. And I felt that the time would come when men of my breed men from it. in had been born the mire. I was no more to blame for being what I was than the Indian was to blame for being what he was. despite what any well-fed liar from the pulpit had to say about it. the gutter would get even with . I had been moulded and crushed to a certain shape by circumstances.

I suppose it was the lonesomeness of the whole thing that got me into this morse. might have got more used to being utterly was never bothered at all by the Indians. Somehow. though. occaI alone. sionally . right we white As a rule Indians men will let them alone. are all have been bothered by Indians if at other times. just to live for frame of mind. to it be sure. though I saw them.164 I A Man Adrift my tell put the muzzle of the revolver against head for the second time. too. They are not blessed with civilisa- . but just I a few moments to was only long enough for me buy what food I wanted. I this It wasn't fear. better for all think if I me it would have been had seen no one at Then I through the whole tramp. I couldn't what it was I couldn't tell even to day. company's stations. something came over me. and then well. it wasn't re- wanted to live just wanted no particular reason. at the for I saw faces. but they either paid no attention to me or they greeted I me in a friendly way.

. 1 heard a sound that froze me to the marrow with fear. path with The will dispute other snakes glide Its away at the sound of a footstep. and out fro. and was swaying to and Its mouth was wide open. with the Besides. One It was a rattlesnake that had come bright steel of the rails had Sbrrr! Its rattle it Sbrrr! at a furious rate. we send missionaries day. out on to the middle of the track to sun itself. The attracted was going of The sound before.Through tion the Rockies 165 tribe to starve as long as they but they never allow any of their have food them. in to give still They are Christian this respect much more than we are. descriptions is had heard of well known that they are the only snakes the in the North-west that you. my footsteps had disturbed it I had never seen a rattlesnake after I I and had got over because it my it first I impulse of fear began to study I knew it was a it rattler tallied it. head was raised about four inches from the ground. about noon-time. out to And them.

I was an intruder there anyway.1 66 it A Man Its It Adrift the fangs were shooting. So I got off the I had track and walked half round it. I was going I to fire at I'd let it it but it thought a second time. as you see snakes coiled up in of pictures. however. It wasn't coiled up. colour was a sort of dirty dark grey. It still swaying touched me a its head little. my . and would harm no one if not bothered. The snake was game come across and that's I like to anything game. to it keep a close eye on it. feet long. it. was in its own country. watch- ing me. must have been about its five The look make a man I in eyes was enough to turn sick and die. You are not often allowed the privilege. for wheeled slowly round with me. fired a shot at and though it I it broke never kept This the ground within an inch of moved a peg out of the way. and rattling. After all alone. plan was to collect a big pile of dried branches and night When came on.

I covered myself up with the down. Afcer my blankets and get on the I many days tramping settlement It came to a little on the north fork of the Fraser River. After my smoke I would spread a blanket on the ground. and lay my knife and revolver near where my head was going to rest. was called Yale. I would would cook my fire. live too much in houses. and after I had eaten I'd have a smoke. . strong and as hard as an animal. Sleeping out in the open air is the finest You become as thing a man can do. was the too with tramping and monotony. breaking. so that I could grab them at once if need be.Through make a fire. Just as People I waken eat. the Rockies I'd 167 Then cook myself some grub. dawn was Then up. I didn't tired dream the all. to and other blankets just as I I then would drop before lay off sleep you at could say I Jack Robinson. breakfast over the remains of the pack move.

It seemed to me as if I were in the biggest church one could roof. Down horribly. He just thrust an immense landing net down . and they stood up almost as straight as pillars. tops of them were covered and half way down one of glacier them was a that had taken a thousand years to form. The with snow. go much on scenery must say the look of the mountains here impressed me. His way of doing it was simple. think of a church without a The mountains were the biggest I had ever seen. It treachery. I saw a Si wash Indian on the top of a rock hauling up salmon out of the rapids. If you fell in here you had no more chance of swimming than you would have in the Maelstrom. You were was more awful -looking than the mid -ocean in a hurricane. because beneath it all one could feel there was lost. in the valley the river tore It along was one of the ugliest and wickedest-looking pieces of water I had ever seen. Here I had a go at salmon fishing.1 68 I A Man didn't I Adrift just Though then.

and a salmon would run The water was packed with the their They were working way up stream. I head with a small let asked the Indian to it. fighting salmon on to the top of the rock he brained it by giving it a light tap on the club. It looked as if the guyropes were going to snap. When one of them got into the net the Indian knew about it. and once been rocks. Three guy-ropes were fastened to the frame of the net to keep it steady in the The ropes were hitched rushing water. me have a try at I it hauled almost The first salmon up nearly cost me my life. the Rockies 169 into fish. too some of them thirty-five and forty pounders. When the Indian hauled up the struggling. and he did.Through into the water. in the rapids I would have smashed into smithereens on the . it. to a tree that stood off over on the bank. for knocked me into the rapids. Big salmon they were.

A I man was I nothing to was. just to see how strong an upI want no stream salmon really was. lion. My journey was nearly over. thought grappling with a mountain it. and I was foolish enough to pick him up in my arms. right this part of At my journey I where the line had yet to come. . a gradual slope to the coast. for and dangerous you got knocked off the sport. tains got smaller.170 A Man Adrift This salmon was a big fellow. I was I more of it. fish. I I didn't know where only knew that was getting a hard flinging about somewhere or another. From then on it was of way. had got a long way past the point where the comI was in the pany's rails were laid. was all up with you. hauled up about twenty it and I must say rocks it was great if sport. or cutting. too. I This soothed him. I had crossed the summit of the big mountain chain. left The mounfeeling The lonesome me. held on though^ till the Indian got in one of his light taps on the head of the I salmon.

It was .Through And of a the Rockies I 171 a one morning as I rounded the turn in the distance gorge saw off great shining stretch the Pacific. of water.

Three dollars and a half a day was the rate at which we were paid. Four of us had up and carry thirty-foot steel rails a hot sun. MAXWELL The men KAMLOOPS was a rough town. and as I was not one of that few. though to be found gold. Kamloops red while it lasted. We got our wages on the fifteenth of every month.XIII. I had for in the . being I was in the gang that laid the steel. I We re- and hard things used 172 . to happen. and when the money came we took a day painted or so off to spend it. to go to work on the railroad which was away out through the mountains. built The work was to pick in lively. that drift here and there and everywhere had made it for the time their abiding mountains beyond it was place Few found it.

of us would stay at home and cook the grub while the rest were working on One we took turn about. but they had got the drop on us. this At the door of our shack." and which we built ourselves. One night. two men came up to the track. as we were smoking our pipes round the fire. and his out. But that's neither here nor there. I and had had felt sorry to have to see him go along with the Marshal and his men. and in that country it was shoot if you moved.Maxwell member deputies for just 173 and his when got the Marshal fresh. We small " lived in batches of six or seven in rough log-houses. interfered. and made for the calaboose. They were in . noisy in The crowd had been a saloon that trifle all. and all. The Marshal and be sure. arrested Bruce fellow nothing a University at He was a nice he had cut man but I suppose up rough at home in England. With an axe we got Bruce gang I smashed to in the door. which we called shacks. to get out. Kelly's was But that night six or seven of us heeled ourselves.

Altogether. was to get to the United We States. but that it would be impossible now that he was a He would have to try his luck deserter. where they had enlisted. They Canada. with them. One gave object. in the States. and wiry build. Maxwell could not old. well formed. and had a frank face. they s'aid. Their soldier's uniform. spoke of his to like. Their next point was Yale. that they a post two hundred miles away. and did our level sympathised best to make them comfortable. a foxy expression of face. where they would be safe. his name as Cox. fine. Cox might have been old. mother and his wish to see her.174 A Man Adrift and they frankly told us had deserted from Indian Creek. twenty-five years was of middle height and of a He had keen black eyes. have been more than twenty years He was tall. he was a young whose appearance one would be apt fellow He was home-sick. said they belonged to Toronto. They had deserted from the post because the discipline was hard. I felt sorry for him. the other as Maxwell. a place thirty He .

stayed. Full of whisky and the devil. guests. turned We tion. strongly objected And as he had twenty dollars planted away since last month's pay-day. Our time. into .Maxwell miles away. which at this filled was a good deal over a mile wide. point have hurled myself into a Niagara. As for with a crazy notion. 175 it by all in. and rowed out Kamloops Lake. After smoking and chatting awhile. and overturned it. I jumped on the gunwale of the boat. Rails would be laid after we were dead. I faced myself. They hoped to reach the following night. and with a complica- Jimmy Murphy to our guests leaving. all hands could swim. he proposed a holiday. he said. and we On in the afternoon into had a roaring we got a boat. including the deserters. for the centre of the lake. Luckily. I felt the sudden sense of great power I would that often comes to the drunken. were tired. hands. it Morning came. not being able to withstand his logic. or a hell.

and I knew baritone. The soldiers left to Yale. To him I owe close to the lake's centre my life. I sang on the stage . He brought me to reason. The next day came. Two the months Globe the after this I in was singing in Hotel Vancouver. which would have carried me down into the rapids. for was swimming was a powerful current. and swam back with him. far before I was clutched by the collar. He saw the danger my mad spell was bringing me to. where I would have been torn to pieces on sharp. and we went back us to go on to work. The evening was turned into a concert hall. and I was engaged as a I had a fair voice. and dragged round. and I turned. But I had not gone very jutting rocks. who had swum after me. hotel in something of music.176 I A Man Adrift to certain death. It was Maxwell.

Maxwell?" " His face changed colour. cosmopolitan But crowd hailing from everywhere." he repeated after looked at me curiously. "You've got a great voice. knew "By God. I I Then went in amongst I the audience and sat fellows I down with some was hardly seated before I was touched on It was I turned round. was easier than laying rails. as he " Haven't you heard " ? "Heard what?" M . Cox.'* "Sit "Oh. the shoulder. the tie of the vagabond bound together. to take a drink. He had got rid of his uniform." I said.Maxwell in the 177 had worn Singing same rough sailor rig I when working on the railroad. that's all right. I They got on well with the audience. got big applause. Reddy!" he exclaimed. Maxwell. me. Where's your pardner. who would sang share up with the stranger. down and have a drink. After singing again. them all And they were good I fellows. were indeed a mixed -up.

He's going to be with the other two I can't rehung member Reddy" their to names next week. "and I think the trial was a damned fraud.178 " " for ? A Man he's Adrift to Why Hung " condemned I hung!" I said. you The men were in the neighbourat the numbskull time of the murder. slowly." " " Oh. not knowing what to say." put in another. The hood know. anyway. and a of a doctor said that their clothes were spattered with I human blood. yes interrupted one of the men ! sitting at the table. my head to a cent. Why me "you must have been it. old circumstantial evidence gag. I'll bet guess they're done for. " " What and "Why tried looked straight at him. anyway. he and two other fellows were to and condemned for death in New cold Westminster knocking a man and taking away his money in Yale. though. good-looking fellow who deserted from Indian Creek. that the Indians killed the man. "You mean the young." I sat there. be hung. ." asleep not to have heard about "Yes.

out-of-the-way places I had seen men fight and kill each I had become other for nothing at all. and the day after that. about two or three days after we were with you in the shack. though. had often thought of him. The left I him there. didn't know what minute the troopers from Indian Creek would be on our necks. I Why was so head was turning. as he wouldn't leave Yale." he answered. Thirty next day after we got there Maxwell got on a tear. Where did you leave him ? " Oh.Maxwell I 179 was bewildered. affected was rather a My mystery to me. You know I was scared. Besides. I miles isn't easy. . : said to Cox "The boy has come across a tough " streak of luck. he my life. hardened to scenes of violence. But for this I I got into trouble felt a liking from the first I saw of him. There was young fellow who had something had saved I fine in his face. knockings round for often in my various in tough. " We got to Yale on the night of the day we started from you fellows. We had hard work to make it.

to Indian Creek over tell at table You tell can't who's round. I'm "Well." a wonder they didn't pull you. It's guess they would have. But. See you again. say.180 The were " A Man next time trying I Adrift saw him was when they him for murder in New Westminster. Reddy. I going. boys. Cox. You see. for I'm liable to be pulled here I'm sorry I any minute for desertion. to Tacoma. you the God's truth. and. can't you tell me anything more about Maxwell ? What you've told me about him has upset me knocked me out. some He rose and walked to the door. too. "only that I wasn't round Yale when the thing happened. So time." remarked someone. laying his shoulder. shall Where I are you going " ? And when see you again ? "Well. I'm goin' to get out of here at four o'clock in the morning on a schooner got to get into the States." said Cox. I'm . said : my hand upon "Say. Besides. I've mentioned yonder." long. I followed him.

and." I ." "When " was the murder committed?" loth. and that was about the only true thing he did say." I looked at him. I 181 this business of MaxI wasn't round at the time. I'm certain he wasn't. "if that's the case. mixed up in. a good anyway. The doctor said it was the work of a club. but then nobody knows what's going to happen. then/' said I. the killing was too mean a business for a soldier to be fellow. Do you think he He's was " in I " it ? don't . my business where you were. know. It's none of you'd better get right out. " I wonder if anything could be done for Maxwell?" " I I asked." " said. Why the man was found with his head battered in. and his body all smashed up. But I'm sorry about Maxwell." "Well. I think I'll try and see Maxwell.Maxwell dead skeary about well's. don't know. The papers say on June the about midday.

All night long I I couldn't sleep. mother sorrowed for him.'so long. I could kept seeing Maxwell's face. . No. that they'll you in to see him. Reddy. was this the limbs of the law wanted to . I couldn't bear to think of that. it someone must have been the work of He was around when else.1 82 " A Man New Adrift him in the penitenI Well. and The trouble so he had got into the scrape. though. The boy was surely no coward. see its softened expression as he talked of his home away off in Canada. they were going to make an arrest. I've got to and he disappeared.'* But. show how clever they were out murder on the frontier. let don't think. in I ferreting had known policemen. He had nothing to do with it not he! And if he had well. and others like them. go. where his Again I could see its determined look as he pulled me around in my mad swim in Kamloops Lake. you'll find tiary at Westminster. marshals. to put up a job on an innocent man. and this murder was low and cowardly.

June the loth. I To my surprise.Maxwell and have him hung solely for the 183 purpose I of showing that they were smart. On the morning of the next day full made first inquiries. but on June the nth. in so persistently Something curious was me working my mind. the loth of June. I stopped . and why was should come to puzzling. this was the doctor's unsupported assertion that their clothes were of them Added to stained with All human I blood. The loth of to in June. not on had been committed. my ears. It was the it seemed ring wrong date. the while was thinking of the whole business. The only evidence convicted that the fact law had against them was the of a marshal swearing to the seeing in Yale on the day of the murder. the date which Cox had given me of the day of the murder kept continually coming to me. And the names of the men who were Maxwell were with along Derose and Connors. the thing found out was that a mistake as to the Cox had made The murder date.

ings of that day at I and presented the happen- Kamloops Lake. the time of the murder. " Where were you ? Where were you ? I Suddenly Where was a light broke in on me. a series of mind- before me. said. June It was the day when I jumped on the gunwale of the boat and overturned it. Where were you?" As if to answer pictures flashed it it. ! it! I saw it all On the loth of Maxwell was with us at the shack. till nine o'clock that morning. The Canadian Pacific right of way was had at ugly travelling. He and Cox must six or eight miles have been only from Kamloops. have been in was impossible for him to Yale. and by no chance could they have reached Yale before late that night. and. had On the midday of the it nth. Adrift tried the murder. They were intensely vivid. for. and to analyse on the loth of June ? This question seemed all at once to be put to me by something outside myself. as no rails .184 thinking A Man of it. they had not left us as I now remembered.

Murphy remembered the date of Maxwell's stay with us as exactly as I did. and of my intention to go and see the Governor of the penitentiary.Maxwell that time 185 been laid past must have had way. Here was a I could save the boy. to Kamloops. heart gave a leap. and there was quite an excitement. But was I sure of all this ? Yes I remembered distinctly that four days after Cox and Maxwell had left us we were paid off. . I After that Murphy and had tramped it to Vancouver. and our pay-day was on the fifteenth ! of every month. So I determined go and see the Governor of the peni- tentiary in New Westminster. I soon found Murphy. By this time some wind of my intention had got round amongst the boys. and he said that he would help me all he could. and he could back up my testimony. and I told him all about it. in Jimmy Murphy was to town. and lay the case before him. I started for New Westminster. they walk every step of the My clear case of alibi.

dark forest. He was heavily manacled. firmly with his left hand. and the road to it lay In three through a thick. was to see him that night in the I presence of two gaolers. entered. the Governor would see about taking further steps. and was a man with cold blue eyes and a He listened to what I had strong face. to say. was granted He had been a colonel in the British Army. so that he could . hours I was there. but stood up in a bold. he supported what I said. When the night came I door of his cell. erect The manacles. curious was brought I to felt nervous I and as the door opened. without receiving any cue. and to talk to him as had to his whereabouts at the time If of the murder. There was Maxwell. I an interview with the Governor.1 86 A Man Adrift New Westminster was just twelve miles from Vancouver. which he grasped way. and after some thought. granted After a lot of difficulty me permission to see Maxwell.

"You remember Kamloops?" . " Oh.Maxwell move easily. looked into his gaoler then hinted to cautious way the reason of my said it The him visit. off than I can't worse am. my hand. had a blue better They looked new." I said nothing. but eyes." taking " I'm glad to see you. said. hand. He when I looked handsomer than had seen him last. " Maxwell. pointing me." said. " Who is this ? " he asked. 1 one of the gaolers. it's you Reddy. But his eyes to were shining strangely. 187 glisten. in a and might benefit him " I to answer my questions. who has come said to he can do you any good. * Certainly/* he said. I Reddy I looked at him again. and holding out my As I spoke he recognised me. " ? What be any do you want to ask me. I stepping forward. " see It's if a friend of yours.

! in an unsteady way. " The The manacles gave The dates " he ! clank. run before looked up again." said And we talked on in this strain for I. and his madness the date hinged on the idea of this date . The They gaolers looked keenly at us both. way he his his Maxwell bed. I'd like to speak to you about your whereabouts on the nth of June. He dates suddenly sat down on covered his face with a hands. He His face was I understood now cell." "They muttered. and I don't know where the rest drifted to. were looking to see that I didn't give Maxwell any sign as to the should answer my question. and the other boys?" He "Oh. Maxwell.A Man "Yes! I Adrift you in the lake "Where's Murphy swam after smiled slightly. the meaning of the look that I had noticed in his eyes when I entered the He was mad. Murphy's in Vancouver. me. a little while. convulsing with mania." I " said.

But I am are Who ? questions Damn you who asks me Get out of you all ! here!" > And he sprang at one of the hard and gaolers and knocked him down.Maxwell that 189 had occurred to me so suddenly and strangely day before in when off. We were broke up over . innocent. I dangerous scuffle. and that I and others could prove that his being there was an impossibility. at the time of was in Yale. The next day again." I This was get. I was thinking of him the Vancouver. went to the Governor and asserted that Maxwell's saying that he was in Yale at the time of the murder was due to the giving way of his mind through the strain put upon him. " and that is the end of all it. after a He was got under." the Governor said. had out " : set him the He question rose up and shouted My On nth I the murder. I the to satisfaction could told it went back Vancouver and all Murphy. coldly. " The man admits that he was there at the time. of June.

190 innocent. A Man did Adrift that knowing as we Afterwards sentence was for life. . he must be we learned that Maxwell's commuted to penal servitude of insanity. I have often wondered and thought about Maxwell. i because left Vancouver soon after. and since then I have drifted about and seen and known many But strange things.

all told. had quite a slow and uninteresting time of it. SIMILAKAMEEN I LEFT Yokohama one April on the She was 1700 tons barque Seraph. for the good of your The lime- juice alleged to be a preventative against scurvy. crew. burthen. we rounded Cape Flattery and entered I We the Straits of Juan de Fuca. counted ten hands. after a trip of seventy-five days. and where you get lime-juice health. as she was a typical lime-juicer. Perhaps is I ought to explain that a lime- a deep-water or long-voyage ship. and was bound for Vancouver I was one of the with a cargo of tea. which. juicer where you get nothing but your pound and your pint.XIV. and I must say that the taste of is 191 . and need hardly say that we were elated when.

192 it A Man Adrift is The ugly enough to prevent anything. so I had to turn to and get some kind of a job. captains and mates of this class of vessel are invariably crusted cranks who have forgotten all about everything but sheets and ropes and sails and the tricks of wind and water and weather. In a day the wealth I had amassed at lime-juicing had withered. However. Here we were turned upon the unsuspecting town. powerful man. The salt has entered their souls. we were in the Straits. and a pilot boarded us and brought us carefully up the Gulf of Georgia and into the harbour of Vancouver. and I got work at carrying the loose hod. a great deal of knack in carryYou have at once to be a ing the hod. and a man gifted with a is There nice sense of balance. or lean forward just . There was a great deal of building going on in the town. form of labouring work have ever had the good fortune If to indulge you don't step just so upon the ladder or scaffolding. artistic Really it is the I most in.

for the time-check which the boss considerately presented to at carrying the dollars. N . It am was while I I was carrying the hod Miners that heard of Similakameen. I had not enough money to buy myself an outfit. But a difficulty presented itself.Similakameen so. is work of an extremely interesting it nature. to me for my prowess hod only amounted to ten make things more interest- ing still. 193 overboard. came along with Arabian Nights' stories of how gold could be picked up there by the And came upon me so handful. climbing of a steep ladder with a heavy I load upon my shoulder began to pall. you and the hod I will fall not going to say anything against But All that I will say is that hod-carrying. thought I might as well go off and make a fortune with the rest of them. and. I found that I could only get seven dollars for the check when I came to cash it at a store. the thirst for wealth strongly that carrying the hod began to lose for me its fascinaThe delights that attended the slow tion.

a good knife. when who should come along but my shipmate. there was the getting of bacon and flour and whisky. too. and I Seraph. Bob one of the lads who had come over with me from Yokohama on the talked matters over. Added to this. and a revolver or a Winchester rifle. Thus was the difficulty surmounted. and the 194 An A Man Adrift Fort Hope. found that he. a pickaxe and shovel. No. in Similakameen.outfit. He would get me my outfit. was the fact that the night before at he had made a big winning He was able draw-poker. a fine wire sieve. seven wouldn't even gaze upon it. easy wealth were beautifully becoming dim. and I was fluctuating on the ragged edge of despair. meant the possession of a pair of blankets. We what was much better and still more to the point. fare to dollars My visions of quick. at the most meagre reckoning. but. he said. in a saloon to get an and he generously proposed that we should become partners. outfit and to spare. had developed an intense thirst for the wealth to be gained This was good. .

It They're up there as big as your won't be all dust we'll have to carry. The steamer men of all kinds I . and each other time by telling we put all we would do when we got in the " back with our load of gold dust. was the easier to At last we were aboard to Fort the steamer and on our way out that Hope. New We had to wait a few hours for the steamer. With this end in view we walked over to Westminster. was simply crowded with rough and smooth and otherwise. Our first point to make was Fort Hope. fist. We had found we were all not going to have Simiourselves. lakameen to There were others.Similakameen Similakameen." Bob would reiterate to me. where we were to take a steamer up the Fraser River. where the 195 wealth was patiently waiting for us. Nuggets " Pure as well. was a mining camp. as the saying goes. situated right in the heart of the Selkirk Mountains." Then we would go off into a long discussion as to which carry. miles It was four hundred away from Vancouver. nuggets. nuggets or dust.

I heard many and wonderful schemes put forward for the turning of streams from their courses so as to get at the gold-laden sand which There was gold lay over the bed rock.trail is made by Indians as they . We got off the steamer. Fort Hope was something over two hundred miles from Vancouver. and got a vast number of tips about gold and its getting. A tote. one man averred. and three miles His eyes grew a little wide in places. the bed of every stream and river in the world. Everybody seemed to be giving everybody else valuable points. and here it was that our journey began in earnest.196 A Man Adrift heard a great deal of talk. and after going three or four miles we were confronted with a tote-trail. wilder when I volunteered the opinion that at least his scheme had the merit of being big. which seemed to run sheer up over the tops of the mountains. In fact. this in who was a little wild in the eyes forward a scheme for the turning off put of the Fraser River a river of tremendous man volume and quick flow.

" When night was coming on we used . including ammunition and whisky. Sometimes I would sit down and wonder where I was Gold was all very well. provisions along and over places that are accessible for pack-horses and mules. Indeed. we had our blankets and weapons flour and bacon and or to carry and one two other things.country whisky is invaluable. We were only one hundred and eighty miles from Similakabut this hundred and eighty miles wanted a lot of doing. as I was wiped it my to brow. broken-up mountain . a gold-hunter would as soon think of forgetting his flour bag as his big leathern whisky flask. could make no We more than twelve trail miles a day at the outside. for. but this stiff. trail was going earning the a bit too sanguine Bob had " Even the admit that we were nuggets. In a big. dise However. something think. besides our.Similakameen tote. I used to at. meen selves. for the woeful. the whole crowd of us began to string up the trail. 197 and merchanin- or carry.

make our breakfast. would would get up. lie fall asleep the instant we stretched At the break of dawn we ourselves out. and make flapjacks with flour and water. we would wrap ourselves up in our blankets. When we got the rope fixed. and down. turning our feet Indian. Our last preparation for the night was to put a rope in the form of a circle around the place where we were going to sleep.fashion We were so tired that we to the fire. Our reason for doing this was that if snakes crawled towards us during the night they would stop with their heads at the rope go around the Snakes again. When supper was over we would light our pipes. A Man round and Adrift collect wood to make a Then we would fry some bacon.198 to look fire. may be that they fear if they pass over the rope they get into a trap. and go on our way. circle will and then go away do this. After the first day or so along the trail . I don't It know will the reason why. load ourselves up with our blankets and things. and smoke and talk.

They were before us and behind along the us. Again we Miles out down would see in the far distance small trail. On in quest of gold. specks moving They were men like ourselves. were Chilkats the wild. The wind would almost seem to claw at us as if it wanted to drag us down to an awful death. the trail was often to most dangerous. hard country of the Indians who always Many of us would leave our bones here. of feet. Besides being hard. Often I shuddered. All moving slowly in on. high wind blowing. and wondered what would happen next. sinister. going on to Similakameen for gold. the great mountains we could always see the glint of some torrent a sharp. We the kill. It was trying the nerves to have to crawl slowly with our on a narrow ledge along the face loads of a precipice that sheered down thousands And usually there was a strong. white line.Similakameen 199 we stopped talking about what we would do when we got the gold. A few of us would come back .

other men had we lain whitening. glorious How were the . that it? we were It not to come back.200 slowly on. all. thing to climb across an almost inacces- sible mountain chain if to this Similakameen. We were not the off first men who had gone danger willed it in and grappled If Fate search of treasure. thing to fight along mile after mile through the clouds. what of was as good and terrible to die one way as another. With it was surely blended the instinct that prompts white men to voluntarily put themselves in the way of hardships and difficulties so that they may surmount them. It And we were going was not altogether the idea of eventually getting gold that bound us to this terrible trail. A Man Adrift all laden with gold. even in the end If we died gold! died before us! Other men's bones had did not get the well. it After was a fine It was a fine thing to feel that one was that doing something was hard and It was someworthy of achievement.

We saw glaciers hundreds of years old giving forth the rays of the sun in a shimmering blaze of wonderful colours. The first Similakameen. besides.Similakameen mountains ! 201 The dis- And how clear this silent. it who sweat miners. we did was to stake out our claim. rifying. Some the journey was of the men with an ugly one. North of us lay the great Klondike north of this again lay the immense trackless region of the Midnight region. awkward for them. and. had not become important enough. And Sun. difficulty There was not much and make about this. canyons. strange. had not as The camp yet got up into the mountains. whom we had in before started in the steamer had got . as the limbs of the law. II AT last we had in We thing were got to our journey's end. universal ter- We vast passed through gloomy. tant roar of the torrents seemed but to make more silence.

We used rested for a day or so. force a man exerts when he throws his head forward A in the effort of climbing. Get- ting machinery up to a place like this for the purpose of crushing ore was of course It was bad quite out of the question. for every ounce of it had to be carried on the backs of Indians. The loads were fastened on to their backs with broad bands which were arranged so This as to pass around their foreheads. enough to get flour up. that struck us hard when we thing . and was a great help to the Indian in the carrying of his load up steep and awkward It was simply a utilising of the places. way of arranging the load brought into play the powerful muscles of the neck.202 us. The camp creek. A Man Others were still Adrift straggling behind in the distance. and most primitive kind placer mining. as up through the hardships trail. we were we had endured along the sixteen It had taken us days to come the hundred and lay around the banks of a ftv* ipi^g done was of the eighty miles.

nervous. our stock of provisions. however. and not to be thought of for a moment. We would have to take our it chances of eking fishing. and not met them I told that they had gone off for the Fraser River along another trail. had some money at and he bought twenty pounds of flour the store. one or two men had struck big paying pans. as we into had already made a heavy inroad we began to get Bob. True. Miners have a feeling against going back on the same trail. out by hunting and When I made inquiries from the other finds. but there were lots of fellows nothing.Similakameen first 203 got into camp was the fact that flour was a dollar and a half a pound. And. they will find another. Going to work was quite simple. Bacon was something fabulous. All we had to do was to build a rough wooden . If possible. I miners concerning the big that imagination I found stories had helped out the had heard in Vancouver. left. who had struck when was I asked Many had left why we had the place.

shovelful Then so. I When we were dug up a shovel- of sand and gravel from the side of the creek. Beneath this we had fixed a piece of blanket to catch a certain heavy. ready. A Man Adrift and fasten across the top of it the sieve we had brought with us from Vancouver. I threw in another or and exactly the same operation was gone through again. and threw away the gravel and coarse sand. heavy sand had sifted through. he detached the sieve. lifted the water. rocking the cradle gently as he did so. Bob immediately reached down his scoop into the stream. and pitched it into the sieve on the top of the cradle. .204 cradle. The ful gold dust was in this sand. and poured it slowly over the sand and gravel. Men were scattered along the banks of the creek. This was placer mining. slimy sand as it oozed through the sieve. for nearly a mile. black. When the fine. working as we were working. We were at it the whole of the day. Sometimes Bob would take the shovel and I the rocker for a change.

and afterwards ran quicksilver through it to the gold. with a will. True. He work again. was I. and brought it over to When the shack we had it built for ourselves. nuggets/' I said to Bob. we went to gold-bag. good We to see it. When dry. lifted off the sieve. there were none of " Bob's " nuggets in it. and indeed. "Your little. there before It did us our eyes was the precious dust.Similakameen 205 night was coming on we stopped. took the blanket gently out of the cradle. Through it ran a few little yellow heap. could easily get the little heap on to the point of a knife heavy. over it. but still it was gold. When we melted off the quicksilver the next day. For the first few days we did very well. cradling and washing the sand. at Here we dried thoroughly it the fire outside the front of the door. laughed as he carefully put the dust away into a little Then. we shook attract the sand out of carefully. find a little that weighed something over half He was wild with excitement so. pieces about the size of a pin-head. a dull. and once Bob actually did nugget an ounce. We looked .

but It I never minded that. Whilst I was digging was always thinking of gold doubloons. This placer mining was the most exciting work I had ever done. and passed it one to the other and tried hard to persuade ourselves that was. through it structural alloy running through for it enough to give a little when we squeezed it between the thumb and fingers. appealed to the profound love of . we was soft could never find. After all.206 at it A Man eagerly. and why not perhaps I ? Other men had done It was delightful to feel that I was lifting up on my shovel a piece of gold the size of many Spanish doubloons. it Adrift several times. right was heavier than it really We could tell that it was pure gold that there was no hard. The treasure I had read of in the stories of the old pirates and the treasure I was I seeking after here in the mountains ran The work was a together in my mind. what we were going to Whenever I sank my shovel into tell the sand there was no knowing whether or not I might heave a nugget the size of my fist into the sieve. so. bit hard and steady.

Curiously enough. . This poker-playing helped out our digging I must say that Bob was the immensely. see if the Fellows ounces and half -ounces and quarter-ounces of gold as they so many pounds or dollars. At the store the gold dust was taken just as money would be taken. there was never over the game. And we were scales able to indulge in the extreme luxury of bacon. there was never a row In fact. at any rate for a time. and it was a sight to watch the miners looking over and under and around these scales balance was absolutely spoke of to true. His usual good luck was with him. a row there. in the whole camp while we were The reason for this was simple.Similakameen chance that I 207 with other shared in common men. and when we got enough dust At ahead Bob went and took a hand in the game. would of night poker was played a great deal in the store. luckiest man at cards I have ever known. There was no fear now of our running out of provisions. to They had finely adjusted weigh the dust.

20 8 A Man Adrift A row would mean business. often er struck next men were going away who had to nothing. They had made their pile. Any who invariably provoke the man who has been in gold this. On such an occasion we would get together to see them off. rushes will attest to Now start and then a couple of miners would away from camp to go over the trail off to Vancouver or Port Moody. to get ammunition them some bacon and flour and if they were short. was peace and amity amongst a crowd who were in the main hard men. and But give them a parting cheer for luck. The primal conditions under which we lived . for every man was armed for all he was worth. So the result And camp right here in I must say that a mining is any part of the world as a rule peaceful before the limbs of the law come into it to extort blackmail from the miners for is themselves and their Governments. and who were leaving because they had had enough of In these cases we would club together it. It the police rows. Someone would surely have been killed.

Similakameen
made
relieve others.

209
to

us realise that

it

was our duty

when

And

possible the necessities of it was not done with the air

of bestowing a favour. It was done simply and as a matter of course.

Sometimes Bob and off and scour around

would take a day for game. It was
I

as well not to be buying too much grub at the store. Though it was a big game country, it was awkward to stalk the game,

we had to confine our attention to birds. One of the men in the next claim to us lent Bob a shot-gun with the understanding that we were to whack up our kill
so

with them.

We provided
frightfully

the ammunition,

which ran

Quails were what we and we got a good few of them, owing mainly, I suppose, to the fact of the gun

high at the store. used to get mostly,

being of a large bore, and to the spreading
of the shot in the
air.

Our claim gave
yield.

forth a small, steady
"

Bob's

"

nuggets

never arrived.

The worth

of the pans through the whole

of the day averaged about sixty dollars. Out of this, of course, a good deal had to

o

210
go
for

A Man
provisions.

Adrift

the store were the

The men who kept fellows who really got
They took no
famine
risks,

the bulk of the gold. but simply charged
everything.

To
to

bring things

prices for to Simila-

kameen was,
but, like all

be sure, most expensive, middlemen, they took a double
it.

and treble advantage of

They

neither

got the gold nor did they tote the provisions. They just sat tight, and the fat from the pot.

skimmed

However, Bob still kept up his form at poker, and this stood us in good stead.

Winning gold in the store from the other miners was not perhaps so romantic as getting it out of the earth in nuggets
but
still
it

served.

After awhile our claim began to thin
out,

and we went further up the creek,

Here our luck was something about the same as it was
and staked out another.
in

small, steady there was no use in repining, Still, yield. for there were lots of fellows who struck

the

first

claim

just

a

hardly anything at

all.

We

worked on

for

about six or seven

Similakameen
weeks, and then

211
to

we began

think of
It

making was the end of August, and
weather
lasted.

tracks for the Fraser River.
it

was

just

as well to be getting back while the

good

And one morning we
up,

counted things

and found that we would have four
dollars'

thousand

worth of dust clear after

getting a stock of grub and ammunition two thousand dollars apiece. What with

Bob's

skill at

poker and our joint

toil

we

had not done so badly after all. And the next day we packed up and started from Similakameen.

XV.

THE CH ILK ATS

BOB and I were in a hopeful mood as we went back along the trail. True, we had not made our fortune, but we had

come away with something into the bargain. Our work, of course, was still cut out for us, but we had made the main point, which really was to go and
to

managed right, and

to

get

to

Similakameen

all

see what the place looked like. The possibility of getting a fortune had only an inAt least, cidental bearing on the project.
that

appeared to us now as we talked the matter over. Bob laughed

was the way

it

" over his nuggets," and said that we had enough to carry over the trail as it

was.

The

trail

we were

taking was one that

skirted to the north.
212

We

had been

told

The

Chilkats

213

by Sfwashes who toted provisions into camp that it was easier than the one we had come by. We found this to be a fact. The only drawback was that it would run us on to the north fork of the Fraser
of running us out at This would mean perhaps Hope. delay in getting a boat down the river. However we chanced it. One cannot
instead

River
Fort

have everything.

Besides, the

trail

was

new
days

to us.

After

we had been

out three or four

we came

across two

men who were

returning after prospecting to the north.

They
in

told us of
dirt,

having struck a place rich
it

pay
it

work
This
ing.

is

was impossible to because the water was too far away. one of the difficulties in gold-huntbut that

Besides finding the gold in paying quantities one must also find the water to

wash

it

out.

These men, who were Canadians, also told us a piece of news they had heard that made us feel anxious. It was to the
effect that the Chilkats

were " out."

This

meant that our bones would stand a good

214
came upon

A Man

Adrift
mountains
if

chance of lying

in the

they

us, for the Chilkats

savage, fighting Indians. different race altogether from the Siwashes,

were hard, They were a

who

and amenable

were, generally speaking, inoffensive, to the missionaries.

A

Chilkat was as ugly and as dangerous on
the warpath as a Sioux Indian.
to

However, do them justice, they never went out withit

out being given a good reason for way or another by white men.

in

some
this

But

thought was rather cold comfort just then. The Canadians and ourselves decided Four would to keep together on the trail.

have a better chance of standing
than two.

off a rush

We

we Then was

kept the sharpest look-out just as were going in or going out of a canyon.

the greatest danger of falling into an ambush, for the Chilkats were in
the habit of posting themselves amongst the big rocks that lay around the mouth.

Here they would lie white men to come
not only hear

in wait for

days for
could
trail,

along.

They
miles

men coming
miles

along the

when they were

and

away,

The
but

Chilkats
tell

215
this

they

could
It

how many were
by
the
in

coming.

was said they did
a
certain

going

up canyon and
strange Indians

into

part

of

listening.
in

Sound

acts

a

way knew

the mountains, the

and the
their

mountains and

ways
filled

absolutely.

Going through these gloomy canyons
us with dread.
evil,

They looked

so dark so
still.

and
It

and tremendous.
in the

And

was when we were

middle of one

that our nerves were strung to the hardest Death seemed to be hanging tension.

about us
hind

to

be ahead of us

to

be be-

The vengeance of the Indians us. seemed to be lurking in the immense, sinister shadows thrown down upon us from the
vast,

black walls

of

the

canyon.

It

is

terrible to live

momentarily
lay

in expectation

of violent death.

At night when we
build a
fire.
is

down we

did not

for a fire

mountains.

It was not a safe thing to do, seen a long way through the used to go off three or

We

four hundred yards from the trail. Each of us took a turn at standing watch whilst

for. ever. But thing. And along. or six days more we would be at the north fork of the Fraser. We and and but Perhaps at all! the It Chilkats were not "out" been a spirits rose as might have false report. we kept up the same sharp. We breed us all I who had a down the boat big enough to take river. night as long as we had no fire fairly safe. in time at and men will get used to last we got used to the anyidea of being began joke rushed at any moment. the Canadians knew a halfall right. as luck would have it. constant watch. From there Bob and could go over to Vancouver or Port .2i6 A Man Adrift But at the rest slept in their blankets. We In five were getting well over the trail. our we tramped a tension Men If can't stay at for the Chilkats wanted us they would for us ! come However. to be ourselves to laugh talk. Here we would be could get to Fort Hope without any trouble. we were day- The danger was in the time.

" they would be sure to try and rush us." so as to see what going I suggested to Bob But Bob didn't as a passenger was like. We a dropped. cruel He to said that in men were most were. too. and have a little time with the gold we had brought from Similakameen. who was going on in front. was good enough for him in it he were given a The North-west ! He had lived for twenty years ! He this was very sore on civilisation. wouldn't live in Europe if town in it for nothing.The Chilkats 217 Moody. As there were only four of ! us. Down!" shouted Bob. They were worse than the maybe. And one of the Canadians said he see it. trailing who us now I to kill us was in the thick of a strong argument with -him as to this assertion when Bob. We knew at once what was up. that perhaps we might as well pay for a passage to Europe before we had the " time. it was Canadian. made a sign to us. ! one another. Chilkats. barely in time to volley that miss seemed to come . throwing himself flat. The Chilkats were coming down upon us We were in for it.

but by this time we had got a hold upon ourselves. were not under cover. would work for The We all we were it able. Still. screeching was enough to upset one. to try and to would not have paid tell. "I don't think all. it. we could see no one as yet. can hide behind to The seemed be going there's so on all around us. when the Canadian raised . where we would have expected for we were nowhere near flat for a canyon. that we part of it was. and was rushing full at us with a yell. and get Where the Chilkats were it was Indians noise hard to nothing. The bad however. twenty feet from us.2i8 from A Man everywhere. Suddenly an Indian seemed to spring He was hardly over up out of the ground." many with of 'em after said the Canadian the whom I had been having argument. We it is stayed down hard to hit a a few seconds is man when he lying prone on the ground and then all at once there broke out a most horrible whooping and screeching. Adrift It was hardly the place the Chilkats.

They ! came for us. yelling wild. up to him. knife he " had brandished shot out of us.The Chilkats 219 himself easily and dropped him with his The ball had gone through Winchester. and. as he was trying . The Canadian was many Indians. Up Up I shouted and we were up to meet the rush. " his hand towards ! and Bob grabbed it. after There were not so all no more than a dozen. out of him. ******* The whole thing right. A The Canadian would have been all right. savage-faced men. I found out that was then that there is no weapon It like a revolver sharp work. but somehow the barrel of his Winchester got in his way when the Indian was close to turn. They had dropped their guns. and were on us with their knives. of big calibre for close. back to back. was over. but they hundred. made noise enough for a He was Poor old Canadian ! gone. big Indian had knifed the life It was a slashing up-stroke. clad in skins and leggings. and he fell over on his face. The his body.

And. When he was out of the way the fight left slackened. I of the took Bob's coat off. for there was nothing but rock all around for us. too.220 the knife A Man went into Adrift him. This time we had to go very slowly on account of . again. for the us to wait about too Chilkats might come back Again we were on the trail. and it took him hard to see him dead. again. was nearly done up through loss of The Canadian's partner was cryblood. They had been together ten years. gave more trouble than together. and would have finished him. needle and thread. and finally what was Chilkats drew off. all This Indian the rest put the Canadian. it would not do much. I slash in his shoulder as well as my and. He He was lying close to the big and the worst of it was we had to We could not dig leave him as he lay. Chilkat. getting out stitched up the I could. After finishing he gave Bob a jab in the shoulder. a grave for him. ing over him. only that I in got on him in time with the revolver.

They gave me some and quinine Bob some linen to make he bandage ing them Finally for his wound. here for a day or so with the halfstayed breed whom the Canadian knew. A wounded man needs rest above time. everything else. we got to the north fork. I Chilkats 22 1 was beginning to be afraid about He seemed to get weaker all the him. There he had to go on the sick list for a I . Then We he took the three of us down the river to Fort Hope.The Bob. between us. The voyage in the boat did us good. and who helped we fell in with who were very us for out. The again. Chilkats did not bother us When we were two days' journey from the north fork of the river an English hunting party kind to us. afraid proper Only for meet- a I'm would have gone under. and we were not able to We had to walk him slowly take it. was glad when the whole thing was over and I had got Bob safe to Vancouver.

222 time. . A Man When Adrift he was right again we went over to Victoria to take our ease and to put the boys on the best way of going to Similakameen.

made more. their shops late in the morn- and closed them up early in the after- noon. in Vancouver Island. It man for next to cost almost less for a deer bought from him than it would to buy enough powder and shot to kill it. and white labour commanded a high The Si wash Indian sold the game price.XVI. They opened ing. Food was very cheap and easy to get. Over their dinners they lingered They smoked to soothe themselves. Jong. 223 This . so as to supply properly their strong demand for rest. Salmon was still cheaper and easier to get. in the year they he had killed to the white nothing. and talked calmly about nothing in parIf there were not enough holidays ticular. FROM VICTORIA TO NANAIMO life IN the old days people took easily at very Victoria.

Bob and I got to Victoria when the old days had slipped as it' were into the new days restful a trick they have. The people were forgetting closed late. and they had stopped studding with holidays. The former state of affairs spirit The hurry-up had passed away. The men who year had a yearning for leisure were gradually to linger. was and the being forced to leave town and go up into There the northern part of the island. and labour The shops opened early cheaper. it.224 A Man Adrift be sure. This all was the town in Columbia. hunt a little. About thirteen thousand people lived in The hurry-up . they could live with the Siwashes and do nothing but fish a little. to to the inhabitants. for their command of good and sufficient amount of leisure which poets and philosophers say is so that necessary for man's best development. Men were more plentiful. or rather rushed. favourable state of affairs was. of the near-by United States had crept. Everybody was hustling. into the town. and laze and smoke Victoria British to their heart's finest content.

swifter the evidently became the motto of the people. of straight. cooked. above all. The Victorians were always grumbling about them. and that this was one of them. The Chinese were here. They washed clothes. They embodied prosaicism. well They had on the face of represented it arrived at the conclusion that there were flowerier places even than the Flowery Land. looked unpicturesque. who had arrived at the conclusion that it was necessary for the well-being and happiness to try their level best to get twenty-five hours' time out of the twenty-four. paved highways The better the roads the rush. They said that when they came to a country they carried hard times with them on their backs. In the long-winded. The assertion was mainly because the white used them as a means to grind capitalist down and starve to death his white quite true. They were an unstartling and uninteresting lot. did light labouring work. bitter dis- .Victoria to and rush-around giving to it Nanaimo had resulted 225 in the spirit and drives. brother. and.

is but I listened due to the aged. was a rather The old-timers trying place to live in. told me that the gold-find in Similakameen attracted them. and other in kindred gentry who had departed of their health. Victorian. heard. one mention the fact white gold-greedy their men smuggled them across frontiers and through harbours in defiance of own laws and exclusion acts. had been known so with the respect that long. maiming and . He tell took the drink. haste from different parts of the world for the good An did old white-whiskered who me the honour of taking a drink with me. and that Victoria was their stopping-off I was not aware that Similakameen place. offcolour adventurers.226 cussions I A Man Adrift heard about them no one ever Neither did anythat brought out this point. Just before Victoria. said it was the rendezvous of outlaws. and when ripe I I thought that the time was asked him to have another drink. and then went on to me that these fellows were always raising rows and ructions. the I close of the restful epoch.

As soon as they made a call stake at the placer mines. said. he it. white. old The But paused. but now and then they had the nerve to turn their attentions to the The result was that were suppressed vigorously. and thought a little. suggested to the old-timer that they must have been a this I were spending At desirable acquisition to the regular population in the sense of affording an element of excitement to off-set and balance the easiness and sleepiness of the town. found to their cost that the old-timers knew a thing or two more about fighting than they did. They they old-time inhabitants.whiskered man finished his drink.Victoria to killing Nanaimo 227 each other. Instead. and breaking the peace generally. I can't say he rose to my suggestion. At this the aged. . he asserted that it would have been all right and proper if these fellows man had only fought with and exterminated one another. and they would come in and spend the town to witness that they it. and plenty of time for fighting. They had little time for work.

and then calmly borrow from us. suppose. a town in the northern part of Vancouver The brilliancy of the idea lay in the fact that we had never been there. So we left for Vancouver. however. the brilliant idea of going over to Nanaimo. to the incessant rains. Here I went to the Globe Hotel and made a borrow from Ben Woods.228 A Man after this Adrift Not long Bob and I found ourselves strapped. Then we worked Island. our passage across the freight sloop. Making valiant efforts to relieve the Saharan thirst of bar-room crowds soon eased us of what we had Fellows brought from Similakameen. I On the . mouldered and worn appearance. would listen admiringly to our recitals of our adventures along the trail. due. It straits on a big was beginning to snow when we got to Nanaimo. Before we thought of starting. the proThen it was that Bob conceived prietor. and things began to look The town had a rather bad for us. we took the precaution of spending the money I had borrowed.

an oasis liked to have gone in ! But. should we get something to eat. . street. was a dull wooden grey town . alas ! we I could hadn't the price. and where had our should we sleep that night ? We but going outside the town to sleep out was not to be thought blankets with us. across the well lit We Over way was a saloon with windows and looking altogether cheerful in the midst of darkness and snow and damp. and and night was snowing in it coming on and Bob and I had no money. The thought it was a useless one though did bear I most exasperatingly upon the point.Victoria to coast in British for at least five It it Nanaimo it 229 Columbia rains steadily months in the year. A Where knotty problem was before us. We walked dolefully along the main street was trying to think as to ways and means. How we would have up. . It was snowing. had got to the end of the and were standing for a moment. of. think of the money we had flung around so freely when we were telling the fellows not help but in Victoria all about things.

and these were the miners. I still All at once an idea broke in on me. gazed yearningly at the Neither of us said a word. they were all coal-miners. and they were coming to invest part of their wages in a little and sociability. Round about jollity Nanaimo were coal mines. but the more examined it the more luminous it got. There was no mistaking . Yes. where one about. We walked across the road and into the saloon.230 turned it A itself Man my in Adrift mind. If it turned the if over my mind. over in rather. but was a big one. Men were going into the saloon. It I I turned and said a few words to Bob. or. for it was Saturday night. and the most of them were men from the north of England. is in the habit of seeing them Bob and saloon. for I belonged to the North of England. A lot of men were drinking at the bar. I could tell that they were coal-miners by the set and walk of them. was a simple idea. and he grinned with approval.

just "me and my mate here have from Vancouver. but luck was against us. give a trifle after. Monchester. me. hard-looking frames telligent faces. We had got to the turned out that there were several Lancashire men in the crowd." I had struck the right note. It did me good to hear the good old broad burr . Thee and thy mate come " wi' and have a sup drinks for us. o 1 ' Mates." said. tha' knows Bowton. anyone likes to we should be thankful. lad. If I'd like to sing you a song or two. Ah come from theer. It were all right. If you don't mind." said I." he said. and we had it rough coming over the trail. with a smile. " in a broad I Lancashire accent. as he grasped " my hand.Victoria to Nanaimo 231 and in- their strong. Before that come over we were in Similakameen. My mate here will go round." He ordered We oasis. I come from the north of England. " Wheer abouts does tha' come from said " ? one man. in a loud voice. Eh.

red- He old English tavern landlord.2 32 again. " A Man A He Adrift to man who belonged called it Heywood us Yowwood. After this I sang. was the landlord faced. lad." of them had often heard it sung in Many the Old Country. To use a placerism. turned out that the landlord also was a We Lancashire man. and I had finished. They applauded when My first Hey. " " ! said we were." he treated next. song was "Tom Bowling. It had been away from Lancawas as if he had only left it the day were getting on swimmingly. when we man. a typical. and gave us a big He was a jolly-looking. he brought us back into the parlour. . we had struck big paying pans. heart)' supper." and the drinks were again in evidence." After supper was in great form. but his accent as rich before. looked as if he might have been suddenly dropped into " Owdham " or this " I far - away place from and Bowton. shire for twenty years. that's good said the man from " Bowton. Then the landlord asked us if we were hungry.

Then Bob went round with the hat. He collected over fifteen dollars." .Victoria to Nanaimo 233 sang several more songs in the bar-room. And that night and " slept at the house of the we went over man from Bowton. all We were right.

and therefore accustomed fresh air. and I was " " Bowton would afraid the man from Bob's lungs were in added. he the However. strong. Bob's looks comment upon our relief. Besides. plained to our friend that So I exwe were sailors. WITH THE INDIANS from "Bowton" said that he THE man would get us a job in the coal mines. But that hardly suited us. Toil in the open in was bad enough. the let fact. Whilst we were in Nanaimo we came within an ace of being Shanghaied. to good. I a delicate condition.XVII. hardly bore out my statement. Being Shanghaied means being taken aboard a vessel against your will 234 when she is on . to subject of work drop. but toil down the darkness of the mine was something air to get away from altogether.

and we were holding on as tight as we could to the money Bob had for collected. The custom originated in Shanghai. as the case thing often happens in a wharf groggery. and taken over to the vessel which sail. The are drugged. we wanted it to to buy flour and bacon Bay. usually Shanghaied when they are drunk.With the Indians 235 the point of sailing and being forced to Men are do a sailor's work upon her. A man is hustled out when he is half unconscious. or when they may be. to take with us Departure The game was way. a stevedore original played in a simple and like A man who looked us stopped on the main . put aboard a boat. is lying outside ready a is to make its This way of of getting ship complement practised more on the Pacific Coast than anywhere else. It was the day but one for after in my the singing the Lancashire men saloon. hands game was tried upon Bob and myself we were neither drunk nor the When drugged.

bidding us do the same. I was ripe for Bob and myself subject. went on pulling out farther and Finally. but for the moment I said out into the nothing. full-rigged The man bent himself to his oars I again pulling strong. ship. "Belay. edge of the wharf. rather curious that the ship we thought were going to work on was not tied up to the wharf. where he got into a yawl. and he told us to come we wanted We He went down to the along with him. where the ship was. half "Out I there. thought a little. She was a big. He farther.236 street. He was out to Shanghai us ! Once aboard to get the full-rigger ashore again ! we would have a job said to him. He shipped an and pointed to a vessel that lay off a mile away. and then I dropped to the whole scheme. looked at her. A Man and asked us Adrift if a job unloading a ship at forty cents an hour." . I thought that the time to get a little light on the asked the man oar. pulled straight it Then he I bay." he said. said we did." I "Turn back.

and he turned back got on the wharf again I and struck him in the When we turned face." But the man was a told obstinate. I meant. he would how. He knew what at once.With He the Indians : 237 all I " It's stopped pulling. and we walked up there after we had bought some provisions at a store. have to this I pull us there in At stood if up and asked him he could swim. and said " Don't you want the job ? right. laughed. Our plan was to find a deserted shack on the edge of the forest and ensconce ourselves there for the winter." I re- we don't want the job just yet. He us that it was and that anythe boat. White . round Departure Bay was only six miles away from Nanaimo. Bob laughed. bit all " No. a lot about We Bob and I had heard such they led that well if them and the calm life that we thought it would be as we took it on for a time. right. and " plied. would have an easy time of it there along with the Siwash Indians who lived round about.

we had been told.238 men were in A Man Victoria had lots Adrift told us that there of shacks fellows had deserted lying around that after the life had palled It upon them. The men. And also we found quite a number of white men who turned out as were living with the Indians. One old man had lived there for twenty years. and die His talk put the end like a cur! in me mind of the talk of the poor old Canadian who was knifed by the big Chilkat. They were most hospitable. in no way who were big. We did find a suitable shack. These Si wash Indians were like the Chilkats. strapping. He now for it said he for wouldn't live in civilisation thing. Si washes were small. He gave the life big praise. and tolerated the missionaries who . with savage eyes. and lent us the pots and pans we needed. mild faces. There was nothing all anybut to work in your days like a dog. They liked white men. straight fellows. Many of them had taken squaws for their wives. stockily-built with flat.

from the standpoint of civilised ethics. A potlatch was given. and was easy to had. I had ever set eyes upon. all of us white men were after Soon we invited by the Siwashes to assist in is.With the Indians 239 gave them religion mixed with presents. a polyglot language invented by the traders so that they might the more easily do the for a white man to get the different tribes of Indians out of all they This language only contained about three hundred words. With their conical hats made out of bark. got fixed up comfortably in our shack. curious curious ceremony that it a most was most practical. they looked exactly like large gnomes. Some of them were the quaintest-looking little men tall. hang of it. When talking to a Siwash one had usually Chenook was to fall back upon Chenook. A potlatch xwas . Their language sounded most strange. It was an odd. learn. moist language that seemed It was hard to be without consonants. One could imagine them stepping up from out of the earth.

ammunition. He to all would deny himself everything so as be able to gather together wealth of kinds rifles. he would be saving up all his life. friends. . thing. indeed. To one would be invited . And the feast went on. up all he could for Sometimes. This was a potlatch. Presents were given to everyone. or enemies. of the Even race did not The stray. mattered not whether they were of the tribe or not. passing white man race who had crushed them and was if robbed them of their country to the potlatch as invited warmly as he were of the tribe. fishing-nets. Adrift and : it manner was got up in the A Siwash would save years. and everyWhen he had become rich he this feast everyit would give a feast. the The Indian who gave it had. blankets. as reward. matter. the knowledge that he was honoured by his tribe as a good and generous man. knives. Everytill one ate and drank and made merry last of the wealth was gone. it mattered not whether they were strangers.240 a big following A Man feast. money.

and Bob and I got ammunition. At this potlatch a feeling of disgust and shame came over me when I thought of the men of my own race who had the presumption to try and thrust their religion on a race who possessed a religion of their own and that could impel fine acts. had the finest time men could have singing and dancing and eating and We felt so much at home. it even though he knows he must get sin out of blood and and misery. and some things of which we were in need for our shack. religion of the Indian taught The to him it amass wealth so that he might give to others. The far potlatch was given in a great tent away in the forest. drinking. The feast lasted four days. them to such noble By the fruit shall one know the tree.With the Indians 241 To give a big potlatch was the great ambition of the Indian's life. Q We . By the acts shall one know of the worth of religions. just as it is the great ambition of the white man's to life amass gold for himself. for presents blankets.

too ! liked. could get all the salmon you wanted. There was an old Indian with whom I both tried got on particularly well. and who had had experience of many potlatches. who had lived out of civilisation for twenty years. told me that Bob and I ought to settle down with the Indians and live our lives out with them. summer time you . to tell each other all we knew. You were asked because you were a human being. This Indian hospitality not asked because they knew or because you might be interesting. he argued he had and they turned married one in fact ! And the out to be the best wives going. Lots of white men had married squaws. and the old fellow.242 You were A Man Adrift was so sincere. you. and you could salt enough down for the winter. When men the potlatch was over we white went back to our shacks on the edge of the forest. with an intelligent face We and kindly eyes. and you were responsible In the to no one but yourself. He was a nice old fellow. You did what you life was easy.

without afterwards sending out men to insult this One would was a at it race by telling them that their religion false one. The the missionaries. is impolitic to allow the religion of a " " race that is called savage to be inter- fered with. tried to spring a religion upon who them that was not so good as their own ! This was a strong opinion for the old man to give vent to concerning the mis- sionaries. Men in will forgive you for beating them but they will not forgive you for interfering with their inherited ideas of what is sacred and holy. and of game.With the Indians the forest was old full 243 so the Flour and tobacco were easy to get. . And man ran on. must say that experience has shown me that the opinion was But a I based facts. Besides. and who corrupted the Indians. upon correct deduction from think that to conquer and subjugate a race was bad enough. only drawback was They were a lot of loaf- ing hypocrites. war. even when looked from the low standpoint of expediency.

. The old man who lived with the Siwashes was right in what he said. Man often Adrift undo the doings of Missionaries armies and great generals.244 A.

I was in 245 . had just deserted the vessel upon which had shipped from Nanaimo. In " Nanaimo saloons. The in idea in my mind Nanaimo.XVIIL IN 'Frisco I A NEW PHASE become tired went on the stage. I never saw him again. with the at where returned after several living Siwash Indians parture Bay. and thought I would glitter first like to try for awhile the tinsel and and ease of the formed itself I stage. had been singing in the and several people had said to Why don't you go down to 'Frisco " and go on the stage ? me. And of I I at last I found myself at the foot Market Street in 'Frisco. months DeI Bob stayed with them. wondering. I had of the sea and the mountains I and the Indians.

I homo as had been told went there. and I was afraid in and ask to be taken as a singer. And I was brown and hardlooking and weather beaten as tough a looking specimen of the genus one could lay eyes on. This was the extent of my capital through and through. plucked up went in and saw the conductor. However. I the Tivoli in Nanaimo to go to House on Eddy Street. saw the spruce-looking for rehearsal. and singers going in them from across the road. and with the forest. He looked . and coin of the realm amount of four dollars and a half.246 'Frisco! A Man ? Adrift to get I stage But how was I That was the rub. on the possessed a hardened constitution. Billy Furst. I watched My courage to had deserted me. Opera It and I was eleven in the morning. Civilisation was be- ginning to get on I my nerves. Indians in the confused me. a belt and a sheath knife. a used up merchant sailor's suit which to the I had on me. go The hurry and bustle of the town after the quietude of life in the solitude of the mountains.

music. and so unlike a vocalist. When England I I was a boy in the North of used to spend my sixpences in the gallery of the theatre when going to an opera was on. The trial satisfied my could read him. I said. and then he asked me if Then he engaged me I could. Thus I managed to learn to read even difficult music. me who and what tired of sailoring. sing in the different operas. and practise reading at sight. He asked I was. I remember when I worked . and where I him that I had been came from.A New at Phase I 247 looked so me in an astonished way rough. for the chorus. my knockings around afterwards I studied it I used to buy up whenever I could. I had heard the great tenor. I was very fond of music. I managed In by myself. He I laughed. but tried voice. vocal scores. Joseph Maas. I told living with Indians in Vancouver Island. and that I had come down to San FranI was cisco to go on the operatic stage. The love of music stimulated me to try and pick up a knowledge of to learn to read a little it.

But I must say that night " when the was on the stage that was opera being given I the strangest Orpheus and Eurydice feeling came over me that I ever had in " my The life. distant place I was able to tackle the tinsel and glitter and ease of that the stage at the munificent salary of eight dollars a week. transition was so abrupt. Billy Furst told me that was all knew stage. It now served me in good in place of having to tackle a lime- was going a long way off to juicer some vague. It was . This hour when I ability to read music I was the only thing me. I they paid raw chorus singers nothing in particular about all who the passed that memorable morning between the conductor and myself and the singers who stood won't go into that round wonder-struck. for. gazing on me as if I were some wild animal." after and studying it hour had done work. literate had about stead.248 at Shaft A Man Adrift 19 going to New York one pay " day and buying a score of Verdi's Aida.

I was just standing in the wings. and I was hard-looking and toughlooking enough to look my story. thousand to one against me. to be sure. was Imagine it! Here and brilliant light soft. grand music. possible. At the time they didn't . and what sort of a life it was. It just chanced that the conductor took an terest in in- me. I was not playing as yet. wearing my weather-beaten to merchant it sailor clothes. To I say that it I was bewildered would be the mildest to put in way out. lovely white stunned knocked was women. and colour. Furst thought that was as well for me come and After all. My story had circulated round. getting taken on here was the The odds were a purest kind of luck.A New coming a comic brilliant Phase life 249 with right from the midst of the Indians in Nanaimo company to the midst of opera that gaudy. see what the stage was like as soon as possible. who would every now and then come up to me and ask me how I liked living with the Indians. and captivating. flower of civilisation.

I found that I could live well in 'Frisco on eight there. It was a saving management. A got for dollars fifteen good breakfast could be cents. but suppose was an excuse put forward by Furst so that I could draw my salary. After roughing it had been the change was delightful. As the I was a was sent up into flies to help the fly-man with the ropes attached to the drops and borders and curtains. I on as did had not caught would have had to ship out sailor I of 'Frisco. that I could He put I told the management the time in like this the next opera don't think I was of for I while to I was waiting be put on. The mildness of the climate made it possible to live on almost like I one meal a day. This was at the conductor's suggestion.250 really A Man want I Adrift If I singers. and not be charged anything extra for coffee. dollars a week. much use that this to the fly-man. . Food was cheap For a quarter one could get a good course dinner and a small bottle of wine. and a room for two a week.

bright opera. At " I was an object of curiosity to the other chorus singers. was of them.A New The first Phase 251 opera that was put on was I Erminie. And felt somehow was more looked at than anyone else. I was near to them." a beautiful. That wonderful. alluring if charm It seemed lived to me I had never really before. of course. but then sung before an audience before. . The stage as thrilled strange charm of the me. chilling effect on me. But the nervous feeling soon wore off. There hosas if I tility about I them. Here so the people were so far and quiet and seemed to be an air of passive still away and critical. As stood on the stage the lights and the watching faces behind them produced a curious. ! subtle. first When as I the night came I was as nervous if I were going to play a big part. enjoyed the rehearsals very much. I had. but after a while they got used to me. The magic and vitality of the music and the scene and the glowing lights got into my blood.

chance at it Poor chorus singers This ! ! them was always saying how attitude of mind of theirs was so human and life pathetic. and Italians. and intelligent on the whole. My comrades in the chorus were made up chiefly of Germans. is One of the hard things in to feel that you have never had a part. I was always quarrelling with the Germans. They as did not think singers.2 $2 A Man first Adrift ! That a night on the stage in It marked new phase my life. But was mainly through my own fault. Frenchmen. alike. much of the principals One or other of well they could play the principal part if they only If they only got a got a chance at it. In one way they were all All of and them thought they had wonderful voices just and true methods of producing tone. cultivated They were. They were an odd lot of men unlike any I had ever come into contact with before. The life I had led had made me overready to fight. chance to play a principal I did not stay long at the Tivoli. men. Billy Furst. who was it .

It was each day for and be thankful that yesterday had passed.A New favourably Phase 253 disposed towards me. This was about the time I met Ward. but I had had deal out of enough of it. All the details of how we managed to tell. life became rather hard for me. itself. I got discharged. for would be cheaper us to live together. interceded several times with the manage- ment on my behalf. Our great aim in life was to get some- . I could have gone back to follow the sea again any time I wished. and to-morrow had not yet come.* But at last I kicked up too big a row. After this. We had occupied the same small room. to live would be hard to for the effort we make on each it so strenuous that particular day was blotted out completely nearly everything that had happened on the preceding day. and we thought we might It as well join forces. We were somewhat in the same fix. I had not been able to save a great my eight dollars a week.

but firm. we were a On week behind the already. She was suave. and by hook or crook find the two dollars a week for our room. She wanted the lucre. for was that whatever the would have to be the Ward was not to be depended upon. and done But how was I to define that quickly. initiative In tight was a nice fellow. and then where would she come things tone. and vigour of places he always looked brave. I one to do it. face. I That night fortune favoured the borrowed a quarter. but he lacked action. something? The only thing that was clear in my mind something was. I He to me.254 A Man Adrift thing to eat. one occasion the landlady told us that we should have to get out on the next day. and she hazarded opinion that we would soon be another week behind. and with it It won ten dollars. Besides. happened like this : . in ? All this and other she told us in a suave but firm Steel in velvet is a bad thing to Something had to be done.

however. He lent it me supera quarter. was not stitious. and said he would win back off me just for fun. But he didn't see it. is quit." I put it it. blessing the man who . however. tried to Poor baritone He who double or I every throw. man and then gamble with him The baritone. Finally I plucked up and tried to borrow " a quarter from one of them. As I was taking the drink I stood watching them. Just for a shake. wishing the while that I could take part in the game. The all baritone had been paid Tivoli. They all knew me sauntered in they asked as a matter of course to have a drink. but I'd his salary that night at the have won it and every- thing else in sight. and as no one stopped. I assented. He a said was unlucky to lend money for to it. but I had the luck of the won man in his last ditch.A New The was shaking dice with two of his me. and when I Phase 255 baritone of the Tivoli Opera House at a bar in Market Street friends. else would play with me I He came away jubilant. I But before he knew where he was had ! won ten dollars off him.

A Man dice. One was good for its soup at one o'clock. neighbouring. saloons were well known to us. were unable even to raise the modest ten cents that We would procure us two drinks. and a go at the free-lunch counter. as he lay in the bed in our room.256 saved. full The life. At another the corned beef was fine. the climate of California is delightful. and rattled the big silver dollars under his nose ! There were days when Ward and I abstained from food altogether. air is clear and bright I of But Ward and couldn't eat the climate in our trying. hungry hours. Adrift had invented Ward and I were I How astonished he was when woke him little up. but somewhat coarse of quality at some places. while at others it was choice but slight Of and course. . And at the saloon on O'Farrell Street you could eat all you were able without the bar- tender looking at you in a pained and pointed way. The food was plentiful. The merits and demerits of the free-lunches of the and even the distant.

but none of them seemed to be worth putting into execution. too There was tried much of the forlorn hope about them. a place where you could get one helping of meat. we hadn't eaten anything since the morning of the day before. a big cup of coffee. the corner of Phase 257 One evening we were holding one of were standing on and Market Streets. where we were standing then. If either of us had raised anything by that time we were to go over and have a feast at the Palace Restaurant. another way. and we were was to go to meet in an hour's time at the corner an idea. and all "the bread could eat for fifteen cents. Different plans were brought up by us in turn. They had and there nearly is all been before.A New our consultations. and butter you A meal like R . Our luck seemed to have gone from us altogether. At still I last I had an idea ! Forlorn but Ward was to go one way. such a thing as driving the Trees won't bear willing horse to death. fruit for ever. Eddy Our theme was how and where we should for We eat.

it A Man Adrift where you could sit down and take comfortably. and smiled " a large and joyous sort of way. before I sang first But that was got the sack. His step became springy and elastic as he walked across Market Street . cheerily. We do in parted. What Ward was time. I He had been unsuccessful. as " It's all right. was another man. was to go and try and find Napoleoni Galliani a fine. waiting for was back to at up. Let's go over Palace and eat " ! He Ward's face brightened up wonderfully. in walked quickly up to him. I In about an hour's time the corner. I I to stand next to him when bass in the Tivoli chorus. was much more satisfying than a raid on the best free lunch counter in 'Frisco. near I I got could see by his face that he had saw him approaching. Come " ! on I exclaimed. however. As he failed. big Italian and borrow a dollar from him. I going to the allotted forget. I took his to the arm. Ward come Soon.258 this. My used plan.

A New Soon we were Phase 259 and in the Palace. deliberately. me it the bill. and then lit my cigar at the little gas-jet I which burned at the desk. it was over. Then and the cashier. And and said. Ward was a most valiant and capable enjoying a good meal. seated had helpings of meat and fish and everything in sight. but on this occasion he He was a tall. " had be presented to Here nodded Ward and Go on." Ward walked out into the street. took the which was a heavy one for the place. We would light them at the desk as we were last the feast At off going out. We trencherman. and I topped by ordering two good cigars. I'll settle the bill. with fair hair and . simply surpassed himself. and examined leisurely to see if all the items were correct. with a great natural aptitude lanky man. for the putting away of food. I I did it He was a German. then we walked -bills I easily to up to the desk where the paid. very turned slowly to handed him the bill. As we stood up to I go the waiter handed bill.

" came run into his face. but said nothing. " He turned." I " There. slowly. restaurant. Then an angry look into them. didn't take over a left his face. was over before the next customer had come up Put that on the shelf behind you. but always I kept my eye on his eye." I said in an even voice. and had up a big to without money pay for having the This was a danger- man ran a ous thing to do in 'Frisco. I kept upon him a firm and fixed stare. His .260 because I A Man I Adrift soft blue eyes. looked so steadily and squarely Put that on the shelf right behind you till I come in to-morrow. He thing all The whole It few seconds. paused." repeated. to the desk. thought he was going to shout for help. pointing to the bill. and I A the angry look gradually never uttered a word. and did as I bid him. chance of being half-killed by the waiters and bouncers. on the shelf. The German looked at the bill. remember his eyes well. He realised that I had come into the bill it.

A New eye met mine again. " No. If he had known the true state of face. taking the whole A look of horror was in his thing in. . He he would never have been able to " eat a mouthful. affairs calmly and easily." I said. I saw Ward. You had no money " I he gasped. light for Phase Then I 261 took another my cigar. and walked out very had been looking through the window.

"Hello! ""he exclaimed. was a rather mild-looking young man. How Come and have a are you getting on? drink. Why he was called Count Straps was one of the mysteries that of California." Not wishing to hurt his feelings. EARNING THIRTY DOLLARS I ANOTHER time next. " Glad to see you. Report had it he had run dollars in through three hundred thousand two years. was going down Market Street wondering what would turn up caught sight of Count Straps ambling towards me from I when suddenly road.XIX. 262 I con- . as he shook hands with me. across the He knew me when I The Count was singing at the Tivoli. who wore long hair and a cowboy hat.

Earning Thirty Dollars sented. " I want you I to come aboard my yacht. as he turned and signalled to the bartender to let us I have another drink. 263 nearest we turned into the Here a magnificent I was struck my gaze." quickly." he concluded. and saloon. what effect his And you can look out for things generally. as finished my lager. The Count had not yet got down to bed rock. he " I said. Two " lagers ! a bold tone to the bartender. I nexed three sandwiches. You've been a to see " sailor " ? He paused a little words had upon me. I reflected rapidly as walked over to the lunch counter and annexed more . glad been considerate Count's offer as " in I free lunch I that had the enough to accept walked over and ancalled out the Count. The impressiveness of his tone almost made me think he had pay for the order. taking some friends for a month's cruise down the coast to Santa Barbara am and back again. turned and looked at him. seen the game worked before. to no money I had But happily I was deceived.

If you had Thirty dollars at Will that do?" It you'd only spend it. should turn up And the Count lending me a we parted. if Oh I put in. So at the was settled that I wharf on the next day. "when a man has no money he I should dress well. money end of it off. self. "You can have thirty dollars at the end of the trip. we won't call it off. Count. I'll we'll call the go with you anyhow." he assented. " A Man A But Adrift month's cruise would do me no harm! Done ! "Done!" is I exclaimed. looking " I there " You It me up do my- and down. suppose I shall soon was a have " to turn into a " ! dude myself. "But. sagely. dollar. the end of the trip. and I need a suit of do." No. would it do." But no worse than fact.264 sandwiches. I think a month away from 'Frisco would do both myself and the town good." " things are tight." he said. I'm broke. Count? clothes. . " You don't need the it money now." anything in it." he added.

to see right. I This I polished up. At once he introduced me to his friends. did not bother me much. for it is not cold off the coast of California. but he had left 'Frisco to go to work on a ranch. glanced if down sideways was looked it at the in portmanteau which swinging all my hard. getting together of was a job that would not The my belongings take up very I much of my time. All that had was a This couple of shirts and some socks. got my landlady to lend me lain an old worn portmanteau which had for a long time in her lumber-room.Earning Thirty Dollars I 265 was sorry I was not able to share the dollar with Ward. If it came on from the I to rain I would borrow oilskins Count or one of his friends. . was hailed with a shout from the Count when I appeared the next morning. in mind as far as an outfit was was me this only thing necessary for to do was to create a bit of an imposing I The effect as appeared on the wharf. I With end in view. Thus my easy concerned. who were I standing with him on the wharf.

beautiful little was a sloop-rigged boat of about fifteen tons. had helped out the shirts and socks It with some books and old papers. I in effect the captain of the away hold prevailed upon him to stow nearly all the drinkables in the . had been subsisting mainly on hopes and free lunches. I told him. It was all very well to be excelled jovial. for things of late had not been going satisfactorily with I me in the eating line. and steered with a tiller. She'll do. I thought to myself. but too much joviality would get us on the rocks. but I wonder how he The truth was. Cruising along a coast always wants careful watching. for he had got wines and spirits aboard to stock enough a canteen. accessory to the trip rather interested me. the too Count had excelled himself much himself. I ran my eye over his yacht. And. She looked well and fit. full-looking appearance.2 66 It I A Man Adrift had a polished. being yacht. In this particular I found in that fact. this has grubbed her.

though it was into the wind. Count's friends knew nothing about the ways of a boat. while he himself only knew enough to take risks. I 267 found that I but I was not only capwas the crew as well for the . swept round.Earning Thirty Dollars Soon tain. and damned vigour. nearly knocked two of to stop his friends overboard. On one occasion we were within an ace of it. The steamer managed as we were right under her bows with our mainsail shaking and flopping. steamer tried to cut across the He He would have made risky. were nearly run down four or five times. the yacht get up and she jibed before we let knew where we as it were. How we got safely out of harbour and through the Golden Gates to will always remain a puzzle me. The main boom. for my . The mate leaned over the I the rail. Count came in and too. bows of a big which was coming head on to us. We The Count had to steer while I taken it upon himself tended jib. but he it all right. and with cursed fluency share.

of whom knew fifth less I nothing about sailoring. The Count's dignity was injured a little by the variety and vigour of the insults and He epithets the mate had hurled at him. Then began to think a little I about the situation. I a succession of bad quarter-hours.268 But the the A Man 'Adrift Count got the lion's share of benediction because he was at the tiller. I was in a situation at once ludicrous and dangerous. and some of us perhaps our lives. When I put this to him with emphasis. did the Count ! At I last we were through the Golden Gates. and out into the free water. he became himself again. than nothing. didn't seem to realise that we were precious lucky to get off with only a left-handed If the steamer had struck benediction. And. and ourselves. fellows in Here was four I with five a boat. as far as and the was con- . he would certainly have lost his yacht. us. to think to save Before that had had no time about anything but trying the had passed through yacht. After this I took the tiller myself.

to be sure. in the situation but the humour was distime. he was on deck. Besides. I would have hard work and anxiety all the It He There was humour. The They were As for the sick. the adventures the yacht had gone through in getting out of harbour proved And the Count to be a reed of the most broken kind. but a reed ! had entered upon this pleasure-trip depending on me to pull it through safely. would be no pleasure-trip for me. Count himself. . very much four friends were in the cabin. I began to wish I had stayed Francisco. counted by the danger.Earning Thirty Dollars cerned. I had hardly any knowledge of the coast. I am thankful to say. for none of them could steer. I would have to do absolutely all the work! None of them could be trusted to take a watch. to the fore. I 269 myself didn't know too much about the handling of a boat with a fore and aft rig. in San We I ran along till it began to get dark Count's at the tiller all the time. and telling me all sorts of . He was a nice fellow.

when Cregan was running me." amazement. gave me His being of any use at a pinch a decided shock. to seemed too good His remembering be true. as I gave " do you know of a the tiller a shove.270 last I A Man " said. I might as well have a little sleep." I hadn't been listening to what he had been saying. incredulously. but headed for the direction it he gave me. indicating the " It's a little bay with a sandy. shelving bottom. the Count did know of a little bay where we could run utter in To my and shelter." I asked. We ought to make hour with I the yacht for half an it in this breeze." said nothing. that point. Adrift things about nothing in particular. direction. suddenly. I had asked him the question more to shut I thing else. At That's all right. place where we could run in for the night ? If I'm to be the captain and crew all rolled up into one. I've been there before. "Tell me." he replied. for him up than anywas irritated right through. "Where?" I "Off over behind asked. I deter- .

might as well relax dison the grounds that we were at I anchor. We . and that there was no one to Also. The drinkables were brought into requisition. made a night of it discipline but myself. the mainsail. But I thought that cipline. the Count was mattered unable to me. The Count shore. and we all had a jolly supper Soon together in the cabin. of the tell place was.Earning Thirty Dollars mined if it 271 have a turned out all right to better opinion of him in future. the others got over their sea sickness. for sure I enough ran the yacht into as fine a little anchorage as one could wish for. the Count was really in charge of the ship. But that The fact of his piloting me to it at all helped me to forget his curious method of steering us through the harbour in the morning. let I down the anchor as the jib and dropped ran her up close to the in Then we took after this. As captain. the Count deferred to me as to whether or not drink should be allowed. What the name little. It did turn out all right. that as pilot.

. just the same. it shines only in California brilliance. time. and told me various stories. His friends stayed drinking below in the cabin most of the dropped bay. The sky We got was gloriously blue.was glad that my golden wanderings had led me to such a country.A Man The next Adrift day things went on more smoothly. old proverb had it that a rolling stone gathered no moss. but I had to do all the steering The Count tended the jib. three days. into it in the morning. I and the sun was shining as with a soft. And we made another night of it. . But surely. He had been a good deal around. When was night came we little anchor again in another at least a The Count good pilot. this It to Here we stayed two or was a most beautiful bay bay where the English rover had cast his anchor in the long ago. and had had the excitement of getting through a fortune in a hurry. In time we worked our way down Drake's Bay. After all there was something to be said in favour The of knocking about the world.

and as we were short of fresh meat he said it would be a good idea to scout I around and shoot a calf. that if the crew to mutinied. the captain would come the front most effectually. agreed with him that it was an excellent idea provided no one caught us carrying it out. We The Count joked me. chasten Living me. and sleeping The Count aboard the yacht at night. out of the hold. in civilisation There was began a flavour to of piracy about the suggestion reminiscent of the old buccaneers who had made this s .Earning Thirty Dollars at least. and stowed them in the cabin. There were some cattle scattered over the hills. if would they do replied saying what I the crew mutinied. in 273 became the rolling the stone bright ! We here in enjoyed ourselves while we were loafing and lazing around on shore the sun in the daytime. and his friends were most jovial and com- got all the drinkables panionable. A few hours before our time for sailing out of the bay the Count made a proposal.

I But after a little per- began to see the romance of the When you are amid the ruins of naturally apt to feel some! Rome you are what Roman scout. Having through whole days to tell was rather wearying.274 A Man Adrift part of the Californian coast one of their stamping grounds. We had up the At before last we were first riding safe at anchor Santa the Barbara. of our evil intent. made themselves in killing There was no use that anyget idea. part We of the I had trip. . and scarce. got through We stayed here some time. as captain and crew needed a to steer continuously in succession It thought the rest. thing aboard. the mind of the Count to give ran on veal. would be too heavy to Besides. There were nothing but big cows and bulls or The calves must have known bullocks. trip. would be too long a story I about the second half of the to say that I Enough was to more than earned the money As get from Count Straps. suasion idea. We started out on the But no calves were to be found.

They wanted drinking with his friends. I 275 And the steering.Earning Thirty Dollars before. went ashore on the Seal Rocks just outSan Francisco. manage the tiller. keep a lookout I had to leave and run forward I to tend the jib when- ever I got the put the boat about. the Golden Gates. but I felt that I needed all my to wits about me to and it. deadly roar of the surf. by good luck . But I managed to sheer away. but he saw too Count up to pilot me. I had her through When I got to the wharf. and. I was just beginning to see the black heads of the rocks in the moonlight. many I lights at once. I side the harbour of had made the mistake of trying to get in in the The Count was in the cabin night-time. too. I When heard the roar of the breakers thought we were done for. Drunken shouting and singing from the cabin below mingled with the ugly. me to drink. only that we were usually able to put in somewhere at night I could never have had to do all pulled As it was. we almost through. after an anxious time.

I threw him. The next The pocket. . Lord. And I I went to to into the tailor's shop came buy myself a hand-me-down suit of clothes. as fervently thanked the hauled in the yacht and made I her fast. and hitched it round the line a spile.276 A Man And I Adrift He grabbed a loafer was hanging around. his was over day I walked up Market trip ! Street with my thirty dollars safe in my first The Count had been as good as word.

quality as Sol has varied piercingly ag- London he makes you sad because of the doleful way in which he in veils his face in fog . am and lounger that will sure that every globe-trotter agree with me in saying in a difference latitude in makes a corresponding of the sun's distinct difference rays.XX. little to lounge through sunshine. gressive from intensity. I the quality mean is moods. For the sunshine the of California is past sunshine of any other part of the I planet. LOUNGING THROUGH SUNSHINE dollars left after I HAD twenty buying the I suit of clothes. In Calcutta he . and I thought might as well take a ing the have a look around California relaxation after captainI would like to Count's yacht. in Greenland he is 277 .

sultry brilliance. are at He behaves himself. is the is most the vital topic in It first. their effect as and as mild and genial they are in England. If you are foolish enough sand. brilliant as His in rays once as they are in Calcutta.278 A Man in California Adrift if pale and ethereal. San Franciscan skies. all you have to do is to barely hint that the climate perfection. in People who have month pounders. and third thing that is talked about. rather. He in his best mood. is not quite absolute However. despised. there Californian refrains is one thing that the the or. He shines with un- Climate California. in the after to walk along Market Street . their lucid hardly been It is become the country a confirmed climate -ex- impossible to escape from and exhaustive way of putting If you wish to become unpopular and it. from praising to the and that is is thing This part of the climate. too. he were for his But he makes up is delinquencies. second. and seems as not for this world.

and to wonder feebly at the Californian's climate- When next you hear him praising faculty. You are in the midst of Mongol. and morbidness of the Aye. look at you in reproachful The Chinese have a great Francisco. if you are unwise. and everywhere it can. nostrils. You have but ! hold in San to turn Clay Street from Kearney Street. After it has dallied with you for a quarter of an hour. pleased-to-meet-you kind of sand. hazard a sarcastic remark about the of this will sand. up walk in a city. you will. you begin to feel sorry for ever having come to 'Frisco. The kona gathers it up from the neighIt is an affectionate and bouring hills. lo you are Chinese the filth. and gets into your eyes. ears. For answer the panegyrist silence. a block or two. squalor. and. mouth. you speedily will become acquainted with this sand. the Chinese have come . losing himself in a panegyric concerning the gilded benefits climate.Lounging through Sunshine 279 noon when the kona or trade wind is blowing from the Pacific Ocean. under your vest. pockets.

pipes. look like quaint. Stretching out before it is the laze and heave of the great Pacific Ocean. you must not stop in San Francisco. Here to its you will find California living up reputation. has all the gravity of some religious ceremony. animated wax dolls. If best. you must go south. You is will find the climate as as they say it glorious and as beautiful is which saying a great deal. their uncanny-looking smoking opium mixed with tobacco from queer-looking shops. are their joss-houses. is As I said before. No. you want to see California at its however. Adrift here to stay.280 their A Man Here theatres. Even the very streets are as narrow and uneven as they are in the lower quarters of a town in far-away China. Santa Barbara. the sand too familiar and affectionate for one's comfort. and themselves. Their playing with one another. who move around gravely. for Take lies It example. if such their solemn movements can be called. Little Chinese children. under the shadow of a great mountain. The .

is a hard-looking town. A town framed sun of gold. You town on and on to in at last a little seems come up out of the the soft It is waters. It realises the ideal of the greatest descriptive writers. Forty miles inland you Angeles. strange-looking town town that at once old and young. a relic of the Spaniards. clear fire of a Santa Barbara. can't for the life of it me after see why the Spaniards named the angels. snow-topped mountains sail rise and till rise before you. Byron himself has not imagined a land-picture more There is a Jesuit missionmagnificent. high. possessed of great of imagination. house here. for through the best vigour part of the year its heat is not calculated to They must have been make one think of Heaven. As you approach from the seaward great. it possessing not Barbara. two hundred years old. I believe . It is a is come upon Los a Before it is a desert of sand.Lounging through Sunshine 281 scenery around this part of California is the most wonderful and beautiful in the world. a tithe of the beauty of Santa I In a way.

282
there
that
is

A Man
a
fiction

Adrift
effect

abroad to the
of climate.

Los Angeles has everything
in

to
I

be

desired

the

way

am
to
I

sorry to

have to be heretic enough

deny

this.

The name

of the

town,

suppose, sounds well to the far outsider. He doesn't know, of course, that one of
the interesting things about the climate of California is the fact that it changes

tremendously within the radius of a There is a big difference few miles. miles coast and between the fifty
inland.

Yes,

I

named

this

wonder why the Spaniards It town after the angels.

could hardly be that the heat of it made them think of the fallen angels when they were christening it, for the Spaniards were conquerors of the devoutest calibre.

They slew and prayed and prayed and
slew,
in

presume, they indulged both these pastimes at one and the same time. Again, it might have been
often,

and

I

that a sense of the

humorous was upon them when they were performing the But this is hardly town's baptismal rite.

Lounging through Sunshine 283
probable, for they were civilisers, and, as everyone knows, civilisers are an
earnest,
stern,

unhumorous

lot.
it

A

joke

must have a

steel point to

can appreciate it. No, it have been humour nor irreverence that

before they could neither

prompted the Spaniards as
ing
deep,

to

the namis is

of

this

place.

The
to

reason
life

a
too

artesian
try

mystery,

and

abrupt to of it.

and probe
is

the

bottom

This town

the

For the

benefit of

home of the tamale. those who have never

known
what
its
it it

street at midnight,
is

the joy of eating a tamale on the I must try and describe

made

of,

what
In

it

is

like,
first

and

effect
is

generally.

the

place,

very warm to the hands, and looks like an overgrown bunged-up banana. It
of chicken, corn meal, strong spices, and other things known and unis

made up

These are all boiled and mashed up together, and laid out on big corn
known.
leaves,

shape of the aforesaid banana, and tied up at both Then a man stands on the corner ends.
rolled into the

which are

284
He

A Man
as

Adrift

late at night to sell

them to the rounders. them steaming in a big tin keeps
just

boiler,

they do

Indian

corn

in

New

York.

You

give him a dime, and
fork.
;

he hands you out a tamale on a

You grab

the tamale off the

fork

you

strip off its leaves,

and commence

to en-

joy yourself, thinking the while that there is some good after all in the skill and intelligence of man.

The effect
It

of the tamale

on one

is

great.

warms you up from
going

top to toe like

good old wine, feeds you,
feel that things are

and makes you
well

optimistic, generally. forget your radical, destructive ideas, and begin to think kindly even of old time,

You become

moss-covered

institutions.

I

have seen
York,
but

and eaten

tamales in

New

they are no more to be compared with the Los Angeles - - or angel tamales than well, words fail to tell the difference.

In this town you get good wine at a low Of course, the wine hasn't got the price.
ancient and hoary pedigree of a wine of Southern France, but then I need hardly

Lounging through Sunshine 285
faked-up wine with an alleged ancient pedigree of the hoary and that also the order, possesses
point out
that

bad,

additional

merit of
is

being tremendously

expensive, able thing
against.

desirhardly the most in the world to stack up

do towhisper softly what you can put off till to-morrow." I day can well understand how the older inhabit:

seems

gets into the knack of using up a great deal of time in the doing of nothing. The very air " to Never

After awhile here one

ants have attained to such a degree of skill " in the subtle art of killing time. Hurry

a phrase which has lost its meaning for them. They are the masters of time
up,"
is

instead of being

its

slaves.

This

is

all

wrong, from a New York or London But then it is comfortable standpoint.

and comfort
all.

isn't

such a bad thing after

know people who have from the Eastern States by just got the way they bustle round trying to do
It
is

easy to
in

four things

at

once.

But

in

time they

286
become

A Man
wise,

Adrift
calm

and

down.

The

climate soothes them.

people plant orange trees in their gardens, and the effect of the bright

The

green leaves and
beautiful.

full

golden

fruit is

most

The country round about is most favourable to the cultivation of oranges. You may drive along by orange groves
for miles

and

miles.

guard them. have to do is to stop your horse, get out, and help yourself. The proprietors don't
to

There are no fences Think of it! All you

mind

the fruit

is

so plentiful.

During

the picking season the tramps come down from San Francisco to help to gather in Their pay is a dollar a day the crop.

and

their

board.

For
in

once
to

they

for-

swear
the

their

allegiance

the

god

of

Rest, and indulge
toil
is

a

little

toil.

But
it

light,

and they go about

gently.

Tough-looking specimens of the genus homo are these tramps. But they are all
healthy and vigorous of look, and
faces are thoughtful of expression.
their

Like

Lounging through Sunshine 287
the

Hindu

philosophers, they

are

much

leisure
selves.

given to introspection. They have the to discover themselves to them-

The

climate

is

also

favourable

to

their

intellectual

development.
East,

They
in

come here from the
winter things
unfreshing, in love with
enthralled.
in

where
are

the

general

cold

and
fall

and
the

immediately
country.
bless

they

They
for

are

They
become

God

having
ardent

made such a
and
land
I

beautiful, easy-to-loaf-in land,

they

sincere

and

patriots
till

who

are willing to stay with that

death.
like to

would
in
is

say a word as to the has come to the consustained

tramp

America.
a

He
work

man who
hard,
for his

clusion
is

that

labouring
health.
;

general little of it now and then is all right but at it for a month or a year is not to keep
to

bad

A

be thought

of.

Reasoning thus, he becomes a tramp. He goes from place to place, from spot
to spot.
for

Gradually he develops his

gift
full-

thinking.

He

becomes

a

288
fledged

A Man

Adrift

philosopher upon the subject of

work.

Don't run away with the idea that our tramp walks very much. Don't imagine that hour after hour he is climbing up
hill

and down

dale.

No, he

is

too clever
is

for that.

And

besides,

America
in

a big,

It abounds wide country. prairies and chains of lofty

immense

mountains.

Walking
toil.

it

would smack of the nature of
rides.

No, our tramp

He
his

presses the

railway companies takes advantage of
civilisation.

into

service.

He
of

the

resources
is

At bottom he
of
persons.
is

really

the

most
this.

civilised

Don't forget
without

He

a

voluptuary

income.

Also he has a certain sense of honesty. He is too honest to rob any poor man
out of a day's work.
perish.

He

would rather

not particular as to his accommodation when he is taking a ride on a
is

He

train.

He

doesn't

want something

for

nothing, and that something of the very

reads them. the negro question. cusses what they say and what they don't politics. he takes an intense picks up old. as people usually do. and He respected thinks the by Government ought to build more ships and increase . But he gets when the train on again when the train starts. He is not particular. In common with all men who have nothing whatever to do with the governing of the State. And when the brakesman tells him to get off he does stops. a box-car or on the bumpers. interest in He say in with his in fellow interested the He is tramps. and disthrown-away papers.Lounging through Sunshine 289 He is that best. if needs must. or on the front of the blindbaggage. He would like to see America foreign prosperous countries. or. He will take his ride on the cow-catcher of the engine. seat will do. of the tariff. . workings in the Chinese question. in under the Or he will ride in engine on the trucks. He No a gallery doesn't cry out for a stall. rara avis an uncritical deadhead.

sitting is thing does. time. between these people and he same better. And. But this weakness doesn't last long. what more the point. very strong on the rights of the working always man. it. at the also thinks same do nothing. The working man is striking or growling about the of labour. He approvingly of the Commisto settle things. He soon resumes . or he people who win the tramp's admiration are the Senators and Congressmen. for deep continuous thought has shown him that in the nature of things labour can have no rights. They do the only very much the fine They down to to excel in art of settle things. tie is sioners who go abroad there He feels a strong himself. the strength He is not. This doesn't appeal to rights the tramp.2 go A Man of the Adrift Army. they make it pay- Occasionally the tramp becomes weak enough to do some work. Either a man must work and shut up about must avoid working altogether. however. and. The who talk a lot about nothing. live well.

usually of a light and pleasant nature. is easy and healthy and shady. The season lasts six weeks. The is tramp's real means of tell livelihood begging. he must be able to single out . which a glance a "hand-out. and the peaches are delicious of aroma This work and taste. They are rare. " He is can will at house where he A hand-out" its get a a parcel of food. there are really in men who like to give money to anyone who asks for it. as the tramp will inform you. It know what stranger As he goes along the at a glance the giving type of man for." derives name from being handed out through a half-opened door. with the privilege of sleeping in the barn in the hay.Lounging through Sunshine 291 his is wonted vigour. but they do they are takes a clever man to if to ask for street money. Peach-picking is what he favours most. much mistaken. He gets something a day and his board. however. Some people may think that there is no art in begging. existence . Yes. The work. the tramp develops into a skilful and expert beggar.

an immense there. and is quite close to the frontier Mexico and the United line between six or eight miles from it. temperature is pretty nearly the same all the year round between seventy-five and eighty degrees Fahrenheit. It is a fine place for invalids. I hotel. able to single out this man. the wealthiest of travellers Only may put up The only gazed at it. some States The Here the climate is perfection. On Coronado it stretches the ocean. who travel to it from Its air is at once all parts of the world. and well appointed. stand great mountains. But let us go back to the land of sun- shine : San Diego lies to the south of Los Angeles.292 A Man he has money in the right Adrift The thing is to be but they do exist. in the Before distance. Beach stands a the little way from the town It is Coronado Hotel. older part of this town which was . and then to know if if in his pocket. bracing and soft. Behind it. To do requires genius. and this he be mood.

and Indian blood in their veins. are of adobe. and running up straight . The scenery And gloriously The magnificence of the trees is hardly to be described. It here so cool and green and beautiful. she magnetic. flashing of eye. I went to see the Big Trees. but they age They are old at twenty . and finely formed. and often are Here live the Mexiquaintly beautiful. The women early. coloured. swarthy faces. often are beautiful. When is a Mexican woman is beautiful. They are stupendous immense of girth. This is another little gem is of a town on the southern coast. and black They have a mixture of Spanish eyes.Lounging through Sunshine 293 built by the Mexicans. They have coppery-coloured. The houses is very picturesque. great gorge which cuts mountains.five. From They them along were The way road to was the over side a of stage built a through the here is wild and grand. I remember the morning I first lounged into beautiful indeed Santa Cruz. can part of the population. six miles away.

At point the waves thunder in with great because of a reef that lies force. You can hear the roar of In the town. or Americanos. as of a constant. There is nothing like where all is it along the whole coast of California. wild storm. They are The effect is nearly of the same awesome. Man feet. Two hundred years ago the Jesuits built . a superstition conThey say that God has caused cerning it. these waves miles away. has an odd effect. built right It also is this on the edge of the ocean. this roaring. There a little town not very far from here called San Bueneventura. Adrift hundreds of One of them has a great hole cut through the base of its trunk through which the' stage . You feel so all puny standing by the silent side of a tremendous Titan that has lived through the is centuries. some distance out.coach This will give some idea of their passes. the waves to thunder there in wrath The Mexicans have because of the desecration of their land by the Gringos. size.294 for A. calm and clear and bright. vastness.

her arms she holds the Babe. The well to subject the soul. ing there years. the church is low and heavily rude wooden benches wheresat are still The on the Indians there. it been It steady. it the Jesuits converted and baptized Indians after the the Spaniards had the crushed them into subjection. soldiers When had subjected the body. In San Luis Obispo is about twenty miles I think inland from San Bueneventura. roofed over with glass. Before It the small. is the It has been burnsanctuary light. . Some of the larger houses have curious inner courtyards. which is there still. a flame and blue and Before the altar the Virgin stands. of the indomitableness. is all Not once has small through these two hundred out. and dark-looking. simple altar a light burns. Typical never-dying persistence of the Jesuit.Lounging through Sunshine 295 in this It is is town a church. and In surmounted by a great wooden cross. this is the most Mexican in appearance of all the towns in Southern California. the it priests thought roof of rafted. and slow. long and low.

man who Quetzalcoatl was really a dwelt with the Aztecs. and when he left them he promised to come back again The rememwith a numerous progeny. Quetzalcoatl was a white man probably from Europe. Spaniards came the Aztecs their god had kept his It promise. whom themselves a mighty and powerful race Cortes conquered. He taught them useful arts. brance of this promise was kept alive by just as the Jews keep alive their belief in the coming of a Messiah. probably as far back as the birth of Christ. When thought the So goes the old legend. was only when the white men had committed unheard-of atrocities and treacheries that that the Aztecs thought of trying to repel . The ease with which the Spaniards conquered the Aztecs was due to the fact that they believed the white men to be the sons of their god.296 In chat and A Man Adrift them the Mexicans used to sit and smoke cigarettos. and they welcomed them. The idea of building these glass-roofed courtyards was in the borrowed long ago from the Aztecs. tradition. Quetzalcoatl.

Lounging through Sunshine 297 them. . fighting They thought they were the against sons of their god. But even then the Aztecs were demoralised.

of this men little I The manager was one of the nicest company have ever met.XXL OPERATIC FORAGERS THERE was pany that California Pacific a certain comic opera comused to go on tour through and Oregon. he was a Slope shy about the all paying of salaries. it in a most pleasing and him. but for place. True. that his heart was in the right pay out what manager doesn't come in. and round the generally. And I must say that when he was telling one on salary day can't A of the wonderful things that would happen in the way of finance the week after he did way. artistic Everyone liked And I have heard people say that they would almost as soon work for him without salary as 298 .

I the had heard. He was a man with the true impresI ario's gift.Operatic Foragers for 299 I some managers with salary. but was when his was pronounced. decrepit. go would bud and blossom forth. to the He would win over the hotel-keeper to let the trunks go. He described . hotel Say bills. and not often able but this I when once weighed little with me came under the spell of the manager's magnetism. a week. can't say that It my devotion to him was as prostill it nounced as this. or he would deftly borrow five hundred or a thousand dollars from an almost complete stranger. company had got into a hole that he showed forth in his best form. of course. I was engaged by first this genial sing small bass in his chorus manager to and to play parts when fifteen called dollars salary was The upon. if he were unable to pay their his genius or unable to raise the fare to Then next stand. that ghost to was walk. After had got back to 'Frisco from having an easy lounge through California.

and he dollars in advance. I was sitting next to the prima donna. let me have five We believe was " opened the in 'Los Angeles. and I was astounded to hear her tell the company. first opera that " was put on fol- Der Fledermaus. I will waiter that she wanted beer instead of champagne.300 A Man Adrift the beauties of the country through which his company was to tour in a fine guide- book manner. And when we the month was over the landlord of the hotel where the bulk of us were staying gave a champagne supper to the whole of the never forget that supper. We finished with "The Pirates of Pen- zance. Here we I played for a month in the Pavilion. but I afterwards found out that the worst is beer better than the best Californian champagne. I thought that she must be a very democratic prima donna indeed." " " After that " lowed Student Boccacio and The Beggar and several other comic operas." In Los Angeles the ghost walked were paid our wages. .

in the mountains. where he closed the season. kept it up was a mystery. managed get us to Santa Barbara. and ammunition. We rifles we had had run out of food. and he last. One a scant morning. was to have the men of the company camp out in the mountains till he could raise enough money to open up the season again. Our position was serious. we sat around. after breakfast.Operatic Foragers After for in 301 we left Los Angeles we left home. to the necessity of showing forth in his He was doing best form the whole time. and there was plenty of game around us. but we had only one decent shot in the crowd. How he At the however. no other town did we even make The manager was put our expenses. . dis- cussing and wondering what we would have to do next. So we went out and camped in the Santa Ynez Mountains. True. His plan. it struck him that company needed a rest. to he explained. but borrowing money and soothnothing ing the wrath of hotel-keepers.

for the pig I referred to was one of a drove of pigs a pig ? I " that belonged to a rancher who allowed them to run in the mountains. Santa Barbara lay forty miles to the west. barn a lot We were a sad The ing at ladies of the company were stay- a cheap hotel in Santa Barbara. with Thus we had come little away Alas. skill we had were in depended fishermen on our as hunters. was received with horror. No ! Such would a thing could not be thought of! It . right on the trail coast. hit and he had had hundred yards generally.3oa could A Man hardly Adrift luck. bad The a rest have off. "Why not kill The suggestion suggested. comparatively food. a luminous idea suddenly broke in upon me. The the neighbouring stream would So simply have nothing to say to us. here we were in the midst of plenty with no hands to grasp it. As we were arguing. The way to it lay across a over parts of which a mule could not travel. We trout bad also.

least it. and. in fact. most be in likely fate.Operatic Foragers be nothing short of robbery robbery ! ! 303 Daylight pointed out that we might perpetrate the deed at night or at dusk. thereby running less risk of having any If we were of the rancher's men see us. To be shot would be our . was without the introduction of a couple of hours' stalking. The seed had fallen on good ground. emphasis upon this point. to us to do commit the deed expeditiously at I laid dusk. But I caught doing rather bad. was budding forth vigorously in their minds. The only difficulty was the barrier raised up in their minds by . of course it would be to We and might get shot. and they were bad hunters and one could go right up and interview a pig . They were short of food. or at taken to arrested prison Santa Barbara. though for the men around a ranch both in California were apt to believers good marksmen and The thing for quick justice. After a little while I could see by their faces that my suggestion had germinated.

who. surmounted by their need. we based our chances of safety upon the probability of his thinking that The principal we were hunting. day long we had been thinking of roast pig. and ethics soon part company. I it. had given us a caution as to the size of the pig we were in to select. didn't but afterwards it dawned upon me. Soon Charlie and I sighted what we took to be a suitable pig. and Charlie knelt near five . and now was I All coming the beginning of the end. Our plan was to get as close to a pig as possible. quite after the stout tenor's fancy. fifty not more than a hundred and I pounds exactly see at the weight. Hunger When dusk came Charlie Johnson and sallied forth. tenor of the company. needless to say. time his reason for being so particular. and Charlie had a prepare it quickly. and so as to leave no trace. he said. was stout. It was standing or six others. A smallish one. shoot bury the offal had a spade. If a ranchman heard the shot. rifle.304 was soon A Man Adrift But this the sensitiveness of their ethics.

It was horribly and knocked soon me but Charlie It about a good finished it with his knife. There was a this chance any minute of our being fired u . was then we saw that we than had killed a bigger pig we intended. its it behind ear. Then we it. This we passed through lifted the legs. By we time night was upon us. and cut we tied its down the limb up the carcase first. legs together. of a small tree. It 305 and away. and were getting nervous. while I had the other end of it my left shoulder. by one of it forelegs as it lay struggling furiously. dropped with a bullet I rushed forward. and buried it evidences of our deed. Plainly. on we had made a bad mistake as to the size.Operatic Foragers down when near enough. The dusk had fallen upon After we had prepared the us too rapidly. and its grabbed strong. and carried Charlie went with one end of the tree limb on his right shoulder. took blazed aim. But the pig was so heavy that we could go no more than a few yards before we had to put it down. deal.

but the getting The stout tenor was . and make in turn. We stated the case to them as they stood around the There were a great many blank fire. to carry it share the risk. but they will eat as shall." hands help they eat. our camp was nearly a mile away. Hardly the best thing for us ! We would never be able to get to camp with our What were we to do? load. camp to begin They take no much of it as we "You're Charlie right. bothered them. he " What should we do ? " " Do? to Why." risk. Nobody seemed feast to like the idea.306 ' A Man Adrift And upon or challenged by someone. If go back camp. they must all So back to camp we went. let us leave the pig here. Perhaps more. The of it was all right." mopped said. looks. Suddenly I said to Charlie : "Look here. The moon was also coming up clear and strong. his forehead. old numbskulls! man! We are two Here are we taking all the risk in this business while the other fellows are luxuriously waiting in the feast when we arrive.

And then we had a feast! . Everything had been serene. He had foreseen what would happen a big one. last the we killed hunger proved to them that the right thing to do was to come and take their chance. we might If we were if wouldn't have been his funeral. No accident had occurred. So we all left At logic of camp in a body. for us to kill a small pig.Operatic Foragers especially indignant. so that 307 His idea had been carry shot. it it to camp ourselves. In about an hour's time we were back with the pig. but forcible things to him. The I stout tenor said a few wanted to stay behind. prying ranchman had been around. As serene as the No moon ! Soon a delicious odour was arising.

I suppose she report said. if owned I had picked up somewhat. along with others. member on one occasion having the riders I re- felicity of standing quite near to the divine Sarah in the right second entrance.XXII. 308 . HOW I I "RAN PROPS" I WHILST was in 'Frisco had the honour of suping with Sarah Bernhardt. and was getting ready to follow some Roman nobles who they looked quite critically at the great actress to see if she were as thin as She was not." her in porting played slaves and nobles and gladiators and circus- We and other things Roman. got the princely allowance of fifty cents. a night for sup" Theodora. She played a season at the Baldwin Theatre. were marching on to the stage as it. and I. I was dressed up as a slave.

Street. This is a conclusion that all engaged play heavy and such like. I had no money. for the genial manager had told me in his most tactful manner that he would pay me what he owed me when things looked up a little. for he had come to the conclusion that he was great. Soon after this I got an engagement to sing ballads in the Eureka Music Hall on Kearney generous to vertisement. He had the keenest sense of self-value I have ever met in anyone." Here I I sang I for a month. This actor wanted to star through the country. Thus I had to take on suping. actors arrive at. They were rather way of ad- me for here in the gramme was I on one side of the prowas announced as the " CeleI brated Tenor. at once to When by a left - was actor third rate business for him villains. this actor. He was rather a character. As he deftly .How I " Ran Props I ' 309 from This was after had got to 'Frisco touring through California with the opera company." while on the other side announced as the " Celebrated Bari- tone.

The man who had been playing the part was most artistic in his make-up and conception of the charbut his voice could hardly be heard At a pinch I could past the footlights. the engagement. he averred. was known as the scene-chewing type of actor. and though acter. be heard outside the theatre. Alas. .310 chance I'll A Man it : Adrift " If I and pointedly put only get a paralyse the earth. He a me I not because a part in " The Danites. roll still had the walk of a a stage The all. broad effects. but to." I With sorrow that I am compelled to state did not suit the actor's requirements. I was luckier with Jim Wessels. Whenever Jim He was what spoke the scenes trembled. looked the part of a villain. but because I had good loud voice. I was my walk he objected sailor. the melodramatic actor. I and it I read my lines like one. of the ship had not yet got out of my to I gait. However. He gave went in for producing unsubtle. And villain had." could act. well. above have lost a steady and commanding walk.

and the result was that We not one of us opened our mouths to sing. " What for you " no cantante ? As his eye seemed to meet " mine.How I I " Ran Props' bad as an actor I 311 was was atrociously given the part to play. had with him Scalchi. I shouted back at him. Antonio Galassi." was a fiasco opera. Baldini. paid nothing for the rehearsals. We for the chorus singers had to rehearse a month before the operas were actually put on. When the curtain went down on to us fiercely act Galassi turned round and shouted. and this was a trying time for us. Repetto. we were first We were " Rigoletto. and other artistes. The the opening chorus Gore did not give us the sign to attack. for nearly all hard up. the conductor from La Scala. looked like dummies neither useful nor ornamental. The next thing I did was to sing chorus in the Grand Opera House on Mission Campanini came to San Francisco He to put on a series of grand operas. including Gore. Street. In as far as the chorus was concerned. Why didn't the first Gore give us the cue?" Galassi was a .

312

A Man

Adrift
if

towering big man, and he looked as were going to come for me.
It

he

turned out afterwards that Gore

for-

got himself, and thought he was conducting at

La

Scala.

We were told

that there

a conductor never gives the sign to the chorus to attack. They are supposed to know when to come in themselves. This
plan, of course,
is all

right

when

the chorus

has had a sufficient number of rehearsals.
All
I

got out of this engagement was
this

fifteen dollars.

About
lost for

time the climate of California
rare

and subtle beauty. I But how? I longed to go Eastward. was thirty-six hundred miles away from
its

me

New
left

York.

And
for

big obstacles met

me

at

every point,
It

'Frisco for

very few companies that New York ever wanted

people. fate to

looked as though it were my become a permanent Californian, when an engagement was offered me. It

was

to sing in a quartette at the Alcazar Theatre, where Ned Harrigan, a famous

exponent of character comedy, had just arrived from New York to put on his own

How
pieces.

I

cc

Ran Props
singers,

*

313
I

He
his

wanted

and

was

engaged.

During
lasted

stay

in

the

town,

which

eight weeks, he took a liking to

me, and his manager intimated to me that I could go with the company, if I wished,
as Harrigan was going to play his across the Continent to New York.
thrill

way

A
!

of delight suffused me. But, alas there was a codicil, so to speak, to the
contract.
It

was

this:
I

props." notion of what running props meant, but an instinct told me that it was something

At

that time

I had to "run had only a vague

with very little of a soft snap in it. My ardour was dampened considerably, but I

had had a

surfeit

of the gilded climate,
to accept this iron-

and therefore decided
clad engagement.

had only known then what knew afterwards, I would have stayed
Oh,
if I

I

in

California

till

me

with

gilt

the golden sun had covered before I would have taken

such an engagement. It was only by a miracle that I ever got to New York.

A

hundred times

I

was on the point of

leav-

314
ing,

A Man

Adrift

owing

to the nature of

my

work.

It

was, indeed, an unthankful, an ungrateful, and a tough task. I became everyone's
bitter foe.

Fellows

who hobnobbed

with

me, and who drank

now looked upon
enemy.

my beer in 'Frisco, me as their natural

The company
people, and

in addition to
I

consisted of twenty -six my duties as a
to look after all the

property-man,

had

baggage and scenery, for we carried no We would get into a town, carpenters.
say, at ten o'clock in the morning.

The

who, by the way, was a very good fellow named Charles and I would go together and get a stiff drink to

stage-manager

prepare us for the day's ordeal, while the
star

would immediately hie him to the

hotel to sleep.

The

rest of the

company

would either follow his example, or stand around on the principal street mashing the Of course, as Charles and I were girls.
but human,

we

time they had

naturally envied the easy compared to ours, and, as

they invariably grumbled at us in the night time when we were running the scenes

How

I

'Ran Props'

315

and properties of the performance, we anathematised them roundly over our fraAfter we had quenched ternal drinks.
our thirst and eased our feelings, we would go to the theatre, or rather hall, where I

would interview the property-man, while
the

indomitable Charles interviewed the
or
carpenter,

proprietor

or

whatever he
to use that

was, about the scenes
night.

we had

After Charles had seen that sapient individual, he would mark off the dressing-

rooms.
party whom usually a man or boy other business, and

The

I

interviewed was

who worked at some who got off on that

particular
properties.

day to help
It is

me

to

get

the

needless to say that his

lack

of

theatrical
try to

knowledge would fill
for

concerning
libraries.

things

He

would

make up
list
!

for this lack

enthusiasm

the stage.

I

by boundless would give

him a
but,

alas

of the indispensable properties, not more than half of them

showed up when the shades of night fell, and I alone had to bear the brunt of the star's fury when he found them missing.

316

A Man

Adrift
I

had got through our interviewing we would go out and get a little more courage, and await developments.
of the

After Charles and

They would come in the shape gentry we had just interviewed.
us to treat them.
I

They expected

need

hardly say management never allowed us treating expenses. In time night would come, and then
that

the

would

come

our

sorrows.

The

first

grumble would be about dressing-rooms, and I don't wonder at it, for the noble
knights of the sock and buskin had had such an easy time during the day that dressing in those stuffy little rooms injured
their feelings.

Where
I

they
in

made

the mis-

take

to

my mind

was

imagining that
little

Charles and

were magicians who could,

by some

occult power, transform the

holes into large, commodious, airy spaces, where they could keep up in a fitting

manner the atmosphere of luxurious ease in which they had revelled during the day. However, I must say that we would meet their disapproval with a vast amount of
stoicism.

In

fact,

we would make

little

How
forcible

I

" Ran Props'
it.

1

317

remarks to them that were calcu-

lated to heighten Then the star

would begin,
his

but, to tell

the

starship was less of a grumbler than any of them, for he

honest truth,

only grumbled from an artistic standpoint. He would stand in the entrance during a

performance and upbraid me in scathing terms for my dilatory and stupid ways. He

would analyse and expound the value of properties to actors and the acting art.

would say that I killed his piece in fact, he would show up my shortcomings in a vivid and He powerful manner.
;

He

played the part of on
his
It

old,

rum-soaked
it

bum
well.

own

creation

and he played

was wonderful

to see the

way
left

in

which

he would arise from his bumliness and

denounce

the stage for not having his hand-props in the right

me

the

moment he

place.

One
and

night, in St Paul,

Minnesota, the
"

star discharged
telling

me

for

missing "crashes,"

him

to retire to the
I

Cimmerian
classicise

depths

of

Hades."
it

didn't

the phrase, but gave

out to him in strong

318
Saxon.
I

A Man

Adrift
to

was beginning

be tired of

the whole business.
iron for ever.

A

man

can't hold hot

But the manager interposed
in

and

it

ended
all

my being forgiven after

the

show.

But

things have an end, and after
and,
in
I
I

many

trials, tribulations,
I

vituperations,

arrived

New

might add, York.
to the

My

ideal

was

realised.

had got

cold,

muggy

East.

- The difference will in the fact that here you find a suggestion of blending. It is the doomed the breathing promenade spot for those that live in the gloom. between the crowd that moves along the Bowery and the crowds that move along like places in Old World great lies cities. a feverish activity everywhere. The people possess a grim sense of humour. of fraternisation of race. There is a differgamin terrible to ence. but distinct. Along it move the dwell in poverty. THE BOWERY THE Bowery is the main artery of the east side of New York. subtle. . people who of the The atmosphere seems charged with something that no one shall define. but it is the humour of recklessness that humour that has moved the Paris make history. You is There will find cosmopolitanism.XXIII.

been known to club people into insensisurveys bility and afterwards arrest them for He possesses the obstructing his club. crunch and rumble along. is nicely fully. the street torn up for repairs. Here Refuse barrels is stand on corners. But he is human give food and shelter. Drivers swear. He is the ornament of Bowery.320 You of A Man Adrift are behind the scenes in the theatre New World civilisation. sinewy Italian presides . though hard. . the He has been known to men money wherewith to get hard-up after all. polished. stalks along swing- Here the policeman ing his club. contempt for the liberty of the pedestrian that belongs peculiarly to the American policeman. A black-eyed. The elevated trains rush and puff horses stumble and clatter carts . The shriek of the locomotive and the jangle of horse-car bells mingle. As a rule he is is an offensive skilled in the blackguard and bully who fine art of levying blackmail. He is monarch of all he He has the rajah of the street. His buttons shine beautiHis club.

of the long ago are awakening within him. dollars a and Mamie factory. Here Johnnie is is a picture that to is beautiful. in making Johnnie ten love Mamie an week. 321 The land of the glorious sun and the sparkling waters he has left He is seeking his for ever behind. Mamie works a cigar Neither of them has ever lived outside the East Side of New York. who on other nights could listening. Let us draw near ! Ah. The girl's eyes down. Memories. panini like an angel. perhaps. not sing at all. dozing. in a doorway. and he the life whirls by. cover his stall. drives express waggon for well. This may are cast shyly be seen at a glance.The Bowery over a fruit-stand. while Johnnie presses . he is humming softly an aria from "II " He is in the Scala of Milan Trovatore ! to Pifferini or Camwho on some nights sang Pifferini. A dreaming. perhaps. Sliced pineapples. His is shirt is open because of the heat. pears and fruits of all kinds fortune in the Cosmopolis. as tender expression is softening the lines of his bronzed face. oranges.

When one has four or five little children at home. drinking the first delicious draughts of love. closely after the necessary to look pennies. who labours many hours a day so that he may eat bread. but you can tell what he is at a glance. Heedless are they of the people passing crowd who stare at them. Adrift perhaps. Look at the Irishwoman with the basket. Again. that and tells her. he can marry her next because he They are expects a rise in his salary. The weary look in the face it and the droop of the shoulders speak more plainly than words. dropped here from Galway. Shrewd bargaining and close figuring are the only methods by which she can make ends meet. He wears a starched shirt and a neat suit of clothes. fall. She has a handkerchief tied around her head. Pat it is .322 close A Man up to her. is She store walking along the Bowery to the where she gets her provisions for her family. and a husband who earns but a dollar and a quarter a day. and a look of shrewd She might have bargaining is in her face. in the There saunters the working man.

discussed. pockets are with money. He gets stands the above system and benefit. fine His heelers get in his This is the man smiles. He knows as much about our present social system as Herbert Spencer and all the thinkers and writers upon sociology put together. His smile flashes filled is and big and knowing and tight of satisfied. Up comes the ward politician. to become either a . He possesses magnetism enough successful bunco-steerer. to stop And work on account of he doesn't work harder than the Italian alongside of him. he needs ten cents for his growler of beer every night. if down own in a way. A his diamond from his shirt front. and his taste in dress is loud.The Bowery receives no 323 contractor wages if from the when he has the rain. Also. he is apt to be fired from his job. fellow Still. for he revels in the fat of the land. is. way to catch his who will tell you that money talks. He is jolly looking of face girth. His of needn't being be a upon it for his method has the merit So simple that it simple. he is good that things go his way.

Fakers stand on the corners streets. from is ? And the faker He hails from fact. Wondrous bargains may be procured for a nothing. suspender. this the chief secret of his simple method of running the affairs of this great city. Adrift or an after-dinner orator the interests of trusts.324 A Man better. So says In the faker. is pay him is His especial virtue In that he always buys the drinks. and who is certainly descended from an Irish king. and other things too numerous to mention. of the They are selling laces. . His home He may in has descended divinely subtle is is wherever he hangs be a wily Greek who a direct line from the . hail where does he all spots. Socrates he may be . fact. They thrust the articles towards you as you pass. cheap jewellery. kerchiefs. he like the passing crowd. however. who is eloquent in Politics. his hat. a Jew who a descendant of a black sheep of one of the Lost Tribes of Israel or he may be a ward politician whose magnetism has gone back on him. the though modest. handuseful.

In them you may So ****** life goes on I in the Bowery. unrolls itself. I Bowery and think over room lay in in had a house the top of an just off in old it. Its air of blatant. re- cognised that direction. I had left the stage long ago. Whenever managed get a little money I would lay in a stock of provisions at the delicatessen shop across the road. sham democracy disgusted me. where you can see everything from a mammoth to a protoplasm on payment of ten cents. a street This times. And the gaudy. When labouring men were struggling . house had been built colonial and about I it was an odd.The Bowery Here are 325 the dime museums. At small that night used to wander along the things. I was getting tired of America. brilliant fronts of the sit and gaze while the blood-and-thunder drama cheap theatres. I had no talent in that used to cook for myself I in I the garret to where lived. desolate I air.

I . would be nonsense. In fact. above all.326 crushed A Man down by Adrift were shot and for the right to live they the military with more mercilessness and for less provocation than they would be under the most despotic and ruthless Government in Europe. of a perfect place course. and I have known other like instances. the English policeman would not saying things allow them to be interrupted while they their ideas. say. it was the to had come from. that England is a freer and more democratic country than is America. is I were giving forth saying that to live in. If any American exception to this statement I can only ask him if he has forgotten the affair at Homestead. am not England That. I was beginning I again to England. And. place long to go back After all. But I do from personal and absolute knowledge. and takes the hideous travesty of justice concerning the alleged Anarchists in Chicago. people to get a year's for imprisonment that in New York they might" say with impunity in Hyde Park in London.

was a most interesting for He had followed the sea twenty years. with the old times. and . for we had heavy weather crossing the Atlantic. They were the crews of three sailing ships. I 327 to try wanted idea of being in the world's great town fascinated me. I could easily have managed to go to my luck there. The England as a sailor. * * * I * was sorry afterwards that I had not gone as a sailor. ally They brought me into touch One of them especicharacter. and I was glad to be could with them. They were a jolly lot of lads. but not care for the idea. I found there were other sailors beside myself in the steerage.The Bowery longed to go to London. and necessarily the steerage passengers were kept* below. They had been paid off in New York. somehow I did So I managed to * get myself a steerage ticket. the air of the steerage became bad because of the impossibility of opening up Thus hatchways and port-holes. and their idea was to go to Liverpool so that they ship to Australia.

and he from Liverpool. because of the rolling of the ship. again. and built of frame. and put Myles' name first writing of this bother to me. are always well opened. I had put him down for a baritone solo. When it was finished Myles The programme. this. The of sailors looking out and the continual watching blue. looked at his and Liverpool was coming up After years had passed distance. At last we were running up the Mersey. and plastered it up. good looking of and had The eyes well-opened eyes. own name admiringly. seeing it in I the was it. hailed ideal He the was the English type that Marry at to sing immortalized. causes When we voyage I were near the end of the on got up a concert. He in was well able and dance. person he was well face.328 knew A Man Adrift of hardly anything save ports and the ways of ships and grog-shops. I was glad to see . His name was Myles Hand. sailor. programme was a great the got some mustard from the steward and Then he stood off.

And the next day I started for London. ence. .The Bowery 329 even though I was poor as when I left had gathered nothing but experiI it.

Nameless shadows of weird shadows. And soon there Gigantic. chang- weaving. London of torted the shadow. Silence. and dim light Everything vague. bidding. ing. 330 . The people leave streets. black. and elusive. and glorious beauty foul. Monstrous. the past and present. NO PLACE TO SLEEP of THE hour at midnight alive tolls out and It London becomes strange and quiet becomes is once its and dead. nothing left but shadows. uncertain. . unite.XXIV. Here is mystery. louring and waving and moving Formless. and For- Terrifying shadows. London. In the waters of the old river are re- flections of a strange mingling with shadows unspeakable. disblackness is into frightful shapes.

The great brazen tone full menace for them. of breaks forth. They are poor human shadows. full It menace and sullen power. And you walk on on your footsteps is It sounding lone and strange. It startles night have no place to sleep. if you were in some vast. voices the genius of the great English nation that dominant genius that has crushed and spread itself wherever wind blows or water dashes. London in shadow. colonised. They . shudder. ghost-haunted labyrinth. They sit up on the benches who toThose who They is where of they have been lying.No Here is Place to Sleep 331 darkness and sadness and the unknown. marking Mighty is the tone. are adrift. that has Sweeping goes the tone of the great bell over hovel and palace over the black sullen waters nificence over destitution and magthe poor miserables and misery. Boom The great ! bell the hour of one. deserted as city some mighty.

them shelter. They are but shadows. In the is filled of humans. ! is a mark you might be wherein What would Christ say to this? But Christ is dead. with an ever-flowing They rush and hurry . ! Over yonder a church had. in Why have they to starve and shiver the midst of plenty ? Over yonder is a palace wherein a thousand such as these might be church shelter housed. turn up from the river and walk towards the Strand. Two! And you The bell has broken forth. this Strand. And you in think that if Christ lived now and the this Christian lying civilisation He would mayhap be yonder starved Yonder under hungry and cold. How daytime tide quiet it it is. They are ghosts There is no one to of wrecked lives. sinister shadow of the town. They are lost. There is no one to give help them.332 A Man Adrift come from out of the great black. There' is no one to give them warmth or food or love. shadow of the Sphinx.

and rumble along. all sides. to On sleep all sides hard. and cabs and carts clatter. There is hurry and bustle and excitement. is But now under the is the Strand dead. So bed. Place to Sleep 333 and lounge and idle along. of It is dominion to the shadows. You go back to the river. ****** Working be in a great in the loom af To town at night is and to have no place look around. changing. it. old river. but you may not touch Warmth is . it And you will stop Soon it be Soon are will be day. fate Monstrous. strange shadows.No along. Horses. vans. Shadows. But meanwhile shadows. crunch. The and dark. wander through the streets aimlessly. weaving. black are the think. You houses are where people are resting comfortably in But there is no bed for you. Here is luxury and comFood in plenty is here. How light. Nothing to be heard but your own footfalls. is No one be seen. you How fort cold everything is! How cold is human on nature.

guilty of that crime of crimes poverty. howthing is Where? summon up courage ever. You are an outcast. Aye. . may will not sit long. matters not if you be the dullest clod. You will think of the good times you have had. And you may on. But you must go Like one who is doomed because you are or damned. Move Perhaps you will enough to ask a passer-by for alms. Ever on. So you move And your life will arise before you. on. be given in charge. For suffering and loneliness breed thought. Perhaps you but you will sit down on a for bench. You will think of your future.334 here. for the chance of your getting anysmall. The to policeman come and order you on! move on. And you begin to think and to wish many it strange things. you think. A Man Rest is Adrift here. but you will not think of your future long for the present is too real and pressing. It is better for you not to do so.

been strong enough to stand up. bells ring out the hours. will will You be fine have plenty of rest. and will not will You care. be dead then. is all your always one's own fault own when It luck goes It is always one's own fault against one. It and no one cares whether you die. will be as will You really A hundred years from now. You should have done such and such a thing at such and such a time. till But what a long time then! . You . you think.No Of course is Place to Sleep it 335 fault. but you stop. You a man then as a king. You allowed to sleep. You should have for being struck down. ing in What ? is the use of think- this strain one bit. live or The before. count for as much. had no right to back that fellow's bill or you had no right to leave that job beor you cause the foreman bullied you . You doesn't help you are here in the dark streets. it Time has for you a significance It will never had be all right in a hundred years from now.

What would she say if she saw you in this plight ? Why. sleep. sweet love of the fine old days But she is dead. her it And may be that the face of a dear heart would break. man again. when you have no woman a woman who loved will arise before you you in the old days. and a wine. fire is all very well a good cigar. ! Dear. and grand is this palace how Herein a spacious must be the rooms thousand like you might sleep. though you are. that there after is is a differ- ence in human blood all? Philo- sophers say that there there must be. you will think. but surely Philosophers don't know everything. She would take you unkempt and begrimed She would kiss you. . Can it How ! ! be. before which to thrust your Their logic But it counts for nothing when you place to are hungry. when you have bright feet. not. and cheer you up.336 And by the it A Man may be palace where fine Adrift you will that wander lives the Queen. and make you feel a to her arms.

It is a finer Dear been old bells lot to ! I love them. are the only friends you have. is without he has experienced of the have heard have sympathetic. You are the same to them as any other man. They are impartial. but they don't And are talking about. these people talk. real If sympathy with the poor There is something in class you are a tramp and a gaol- .No And to Place to Sleep 337 the so you go on and on. that dead of night because I had no And it I I assert no man knows what it. No. after all. they pay no heed. They only think they are. thing than sympathy. No know what they one has any but the poor. and listen bells as they strike the hours. for at it has my wander through a great city money to pay for a bed. for they do not They blame you for being unfortunate as man blames you. And of all things misfortune loves impartiality. well-off people talk feelingly hardships of the poor. Yes. I heard them in drawing-rooms. they are not really sympathetic with the poor. cold though their voices are.

These poor people do their degradation. They realize that they are dogs way of saying that and slaves. This realize is a lie.338 bird. it A Man is Adrift better for you to chum in wit> tramps and gaol-birds. and the gutter. nise class They won't patro you and hurt your is feelings. It is not a drawing-room the way that smacks of the It is slum. And. the poor homeless the streets at night is man who walks forced to think. Yesun ful the thing. in touch with the iron facts Yes. and the gaol. people are on the whole more intelligent than literate people because they are brought more of life. fortunate people don't realize to the the degradation of their lives. one way of saying the same thing is much the same as another way. but their dogs and slaves elegant way. even . is they know they are not what is called an way. after all. Sometimes is said that low-down. and the foul alley. There isn't as big a difference between is illiterate and literate people as Illiterate generally supposed. it Keep to your class.

is in And the proof of the pudding the eating. And he is And he knows more about what walking the streets means than even the most sympathetic upholder of charitable organisations. A word as are to charitable organisations. Yes. I. just as is an excellent reason destitute for everything. have applied to them. who have had need of them.No if Place to Sleep clod. To get help from a . a hair's-breadth beyond their alleged scope of action. Of there course. no good. have found them They to be no good. This statement is sweeping but listen to fact. I assert that they are no good. a cold If you are homeless. . spotless reputation. The . 339 he be ever such a to forced think hard. At least. and apply to relief hungry and one of them for will from misery they I do nothing for you. man may not have a satishe may be a criminal factory pedigree he may be undeserving he may be just . he may not possess a Again. there an excellent reason for their not helping the destitute. for I know what is I am talking about.

steer clear of you are ever . but talk of the cloven I tell you it is as nothing compared with the iron heel of organised charity. destitute. Even though you he'll almost sure that it. them for if they do take you in you a piece of bread. to go out on the hoof of wicked- They ness. go and get a drink Supposing he does. and -worthy. No. above all. If The fat salaries for charity organisations provide the officials who run them. and able to stand searching cross-examination. you must be able to fast and do without sleep for a month after your application. it is an ill wind that blows nobody good.340 A Man Adrift you must possess You must be good charitable organisation a spotless reputation. they will than the worth of it out of you. give it to feel him with if you can. What then ? Doesn't the poor chap need a drink to little? cheer him up a See. if a man ever asks you for four- pence for his night's lodging. he is dirty . Still. and give take more It is much better for you Embankment. And.

The tramp . that he has red blood just like you have. is at about half-past two in the morning. who is tramping the dark streets. Or he may have but never mind what he was. Christ would have helped asked no questions. that he has dog. give the poor fellow fourpence. No a heart. altogether. But remember that he has feelings. And you will man. Do People often say than any man can get work if he wishes to work. No. help. The hardest time of all for a homeless it. going to argue as to why this only state a fact. The army of unemployed increases day by I am not day. It is what he is. He is a man who needs him and thou likewise. and give him the price of a drink if you can is.No Place to Sleep 341 and hungry and half-starved and badly clothed. He is worse off than a homeless one has any use for him. This is false. He may have been a man who once held a good position. The city sleeps. Its great rumble has gone down of the policeman. I spare be doing an act of which Christ would have approved. Then everything is dead quiet.

indeed a hard time for the vitality is at its His lowest ebb. may not do so. even on the pavement. . Adrift he goes from house to house trying the doors. policeman is his enemy. this is is the embodiment of the civilisation.342 as A Man lonely. would give his soul to lie down and But he sleep. The policeman humanity of our Aye. seems to make the loneliness all the more The poor outcast must for the keep out of the policeman's way. He must move on. He ********* He must move at last on. And dawn breaks. outcast.

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THE UNIVERSITY LIBRARY UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA.'67(H2523s8)2373 . book is due on the last DATE stamped jfl 50m-6. This SANTA CRUZ below.

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