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Assignment of Pattern Appreciation

Submitted to Asst. Prof. Vikas kumar

Submitted by
Rahul Dwivedi

Accurate pattern making is crucial for successful apparel production. Now a days in a traditional apparel factory the patternmaker relies on the methods used in the sample room to make patterns like Draping,Drafting or flat-patterning from standardized basic block,made according to patterns basically the quality of fabric t hat we are used. Also seam lines of each pattern piece must be fit the piece to which it will be sewn, with notches marked perfectly for operators to follow grain lines, plaid lines andnoytations are also marked on the pattern.

Computer pattern making:
Large manufacturers,patterns are made on a computer,with Computer aided design(CAD) systems, the pattern marker provide small graphic pattern on the computer.screen with a hand held control device.Geometory drivers can make an infinite number of changes to the shapes and sizes of the patterns, including creating new designlines or adding pleats ,fullness and seam allowances. To allow patternmakers to make patterns manually on a computer, another system has been developed allowing the patternmaker to life size on a sensitised table with traditional tools and styles that is attached to the table and the computer. The styles picks up the lines drawn on the table and shows them on the screen. Changes can also be made directly on the pattern available for other operations such as grading& marker making.

Patternmaking Tools:
Patternmaking Tools basically used to work efficiently and to minimise errors due to misunderstanding.These are1. Straight pin 2. Straight pin holder == for pincushion and other things 3. Scissors ±(a) paper scissors (b) Fabric scissors

4. Pencils and pens ±(a) mechanical pencil and sharpner. ( b) Red and blue coloured pencil to identify pattern changes. Black , green , red and blue felt tip pens for pattern Information. 5. Rulers - flex general rulers (a) 1/2 * 12 inch (b) 36´ ruler (c) 18 * 2 inch plastic rule - flexible for measuring curves

(d) Tailor µs square - 24 * 14 inch ± it has a two arms forming a 90 d. angle 6. Curve rules - (a) French curve - deitzen #17 for armhole and neckline mainly. (b) Hip curve rules - shapes hipline , him , and lapels. 7 . Hanger hooks 8 . push pins - it is used for pattern manipulation. 9 . magic mend scotch tape- it is used to mend pattern work. 10. tracing wheels -pointed wheels which transfers pattern shapes to paper. 11. measuring tape - metal tape 1/ 4 inch wide inside a dispenser is convenient , flexible and accurate for measurement

Terms that are measured as a part of pattern making :
Terms identify the parts of the form that are reffered to when measuring from one to another are given as 1. Centre front neck , 2.Centre back neck 3.Centre front waist 4.Centre back waist 5.Bust point 6.Center front bust level 7.Side front ( princess ) 8.Side back 9.Mid armhole front 10.Mid armhole back 11.Shoulder tip 12.Shoulder at neck 13.Armhole ridge ( roll line ) 14. Plate screw 15.Armhole plate.

Patternmaking Terms:
1.Pattern drafting-A system of patternmaking that depends on measurement taken from a
form or modal to create basic, foundation or design patterns. 2.Flat patternmaking-A system of patternmaking that depends on previously developed patterns. 3.Basic pattern set-A five piece pattern set, consisting of front and back bodice and skirt and a long sleeve. 4.Working pattern- The pattern used as abase for manipulation when generating design patterns.

Seam Introduction and Seam Types:
Stitching two pieces of fabric together using a straight stitch creates the simplest of seams. If you¶re working with a commercial sewing pattern, most seams are stitched with a 5/8"wide seam allowance ( the stitching is 5/8" from the fabric edge), though some patterns use narrower seam allowances. The seam allowance width is the space from the cut edge of the fabric piece to the stitching or seaming line.

Different types of seams :
Straight Seams -To stitch a straight seam, pin the matching project pieces right sides together, matching any notches clips, dots or other pattern markings. Pin at regular intervals and perpendicular to the cut edges. Position pins about 2" to 3" apart to keep the fabric from shifting. Begin stitching at the cut end of the seam line, backstitch 1/4" to anchor the seam. Stitch forward to the end of the seam and backstitch to secure

Corner Seams - To stitch a corner seam, follow the directions above, but as you near the corner, stop 5/8" from the corner leaving the needle down in the fabric. Lift the presser foot and pivot the fabric realigning the new seam allowance edges with the

seamguide marking on the machine. On acute or sharp points, such as shirt collars, take one to three stitches diagonally across the corner to allow some room for seam allowances turning inside. Use one stitch on lightweight fabrics and three on heavyweight fabrics Lower the presser foot and stitch along the second side of the corner, keeping an even seam allowance width . allowances to eliminate a visible ridge on the project right side. If all edges ³drop off´ at the same width, it¶s easy to get a noticeable ridge especially during pressing Grading provides a gradual slope of the enclosed seam edges .

Curved Seams- Necklines, armholes, princess seams and other curved areas require an
additional step in the seaming process² clipping or notching, depending on the shape of the curve. For inward or concave curves, clip into the seam allowances at regular intervals to allow the fabric to spread and lie flat. Leave about 1/8" of the seam allowance width unclipped to avoid weakening the seam . . For outward or convex curves, cut out notches in the seam allowance width to allow the fabric to lie flat without bubbling when the seam is turned right side out. Notch (cut away small wedges of the fabric) into the seam allowance at regular intervals to remove the fabric, but always leave1/8" intact at the seamline to avoid weakening the seam.

Exposed Seams- Exposed straight seams are usually pressed pen flat, and depending on the type of fabric used, some finish may be needed to keep the seam allowance edges from raveling. Edge-finishing options include cutting the seam edges with pinking shears, zigzagging, overcasting, binding or serging . Enclosed Seams- Enclosed seams do not need a seam finish but they must be handled differently than exposed seams To reduce bulk, trim the enclosed seam allowances from their 5/8" original width but trim each seam allowance edge at a different width²a process called grading The seam allowance that will be closest to the outside of the garment/project should be the longest, followed by narrower widths for each successive seam allowance. There will always be at least two seam allowances, but if there is a separate collar and/or interfacing layer(s), there will be more. Stagger the width of the seam. Corners- On enclosed corners, such as collar points or front facing edges, you need to
eliminate seam allowance bulk at the point so that when the project is turned right side out, the corner will lie smooth and flat without bulges. Trim the corner seam allowances diagonally, close to the stitching, and taper on either side. The sharper the corner is, the wider the tapered trim area should be to reduce bulk.

Princess Seams- A princess seam joins one inward curve and one outward curve,
adding fullness to the seam instead of having a dart in the same location. Joining opposing curves requires extra care Before joining princess seams, staystitch the outward curve 1/2" from the cut edge; then clip to the stitching Place the cut edges together with the clipped seam allowance on top, allowing the clips to spread as Press the seam open over a pressing ham or other curved surface.