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新・カラクリ人形改訂英語版 07.4.

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Contents and Cautions…………2 The Figure of the Finished The World of Karakuri Mechanical Dolls
The World of Karakuri Mechanical Doll… … … … … 20 The history of Karakuri ("Karakuri" means the mechanism that drives a
Mechanical Dolls… … … … … 3 Let’s Do the Test Run! … … … 21 machine.) automatic dolls in Japan began in the early Edo period(1603~1867).
Parts in this Kit……………………4 Make Fine Adjustment to Each Part…22 The tea-serving doll is the most typical one and it appears in the book
Let’s Assemble the Cart!………6 Check the Move of the Doll……23 written by Ihara Saikaku, a very popular novelist in the Edo period. This
Let’s Install the Escapement!…9 Make the Final Adjustment Karakuri doll kit is produced according to the “Karakuri Zui”, the only
Let’s Assemble the Chest Unit! …11 before your Performance… … … 24 existing manual of Karakuri mechanical dolls written in 1796 by
Let’s Assemble the Motive How to Dress the Doll in Kimono…25 Hosokawa Hanzo, popularly
Power Unit! … … … … … … … 14 Mechanism of the Karakuri known as Karakuri Hanzo
Let’s Install the Other Parts!…19 Mechanical Doll… … … … … 26 who was an engineer of
Tosa domain. Karakuri
dolls can be said to be one
of the original foams of
CAUTION! ★Please read the following instructions before using this kit. modern robots.
Please enjoy
● Be careful of handling thin and pointed metal bars contained in this kit. the beauty of
Improper use may cause injury to persons.
● Be careful of handling some metallic parts that are made thin and sharp
functionally. Improper use may cause injury to persons.
of those days
● Be careful not to swallow small parts to avoid suffocation.
by assembling
● Be careful not to point your hands and eyes with the screwdriver in this kit to avoid
this kit.
● Be careful that your fingers are not caught in a machine while operation.
● Do not operate the doll on a road to avoid the risk of traffic accidents.
● Do not break up the mainspring. An inner spring may cause injury to persons.
★ Please read the assembly instructions and cautions in this booklet carefully before use.
Do not use the parts that are broken or deformed.
★ Please handle the doll with good care. The doll may be broken if it is treated roughly.
For example, do not shake it with its head down.
★ Be careful not to be scalded when the doll serves hot drinks.
★ The colors may fade out of Kimonos when it is exposed to the sun. Keep the doll with care.
★ Do not wash the Kimonos with whites. The colors may be washed off and stain whites.

● The plastic materials used in this kit

head (white) : styrene body, tray, tweezers and other brown parts : styrene
arms, feet and other white parts : polyacetal
guards (transparent) : polyethylene terephthalate handle of the screwdriver : polystyrene
small bags (transparent) : polyethylene
*When you dispose the kit, follow the regulations of each local government.
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新・カラクリ人形改訂英語版 07.4.24 5:11 PM ページ 3

escape wheel neck (right) neck (left)

Parts in this Kit neck joint
tension spring (small) (upper)
looped string (small)
front wheel
tension spring (middle) looped string (middle) escapement
tension spring (large) bridge neck bridge
looped string (large)
*For each size, two springs front wheel rubber
are contained in this kit. One front wheel arm
is a spare. connector front wheel escapement
bearing cock
front wheel bridge neck joint
upper chest (lower)
wheel cover left body lower chest
right arm

driving wheel
arm shaft
driving wheel
*If the driving wheel cover is auto-adjustment
auxiliary stuck in the auxiliary wheel,
wheel pin
bottom panel please separate each other.
head both sides
lower adhesive tape front chest
reversal guard
mainspring shaft stopper A left foot
A Variety of Screws
rubber guard A: 8 pieces of 3-by-8 mm
band screws
right foot
right body
mainspring B: 3 pieces of 2.6-by-5 mm
hakama screws with a collar
adjuster reversal stopper B
C: 5 pieces of 2-by-5 mm
rotary wheel A chanchanko vest screws with a collar
rotary wheel B
D: 4 pieces of 2-by-10 mm
tray screws

kimono E: 8 pieces of 2-by-6 mm

kimono screws
top 1 top 2
winding knob
tweezers F: 4 pieces of 3-by-6 mm
*For handy usage, put screws
teacup on small trays separately.
rotary plate large wheel
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Fit the front wheel rubber Fasten the front wheel bearing
Let’s Assemble the Cart! 4 around the front wheel. Put the
wheel into the front wheel
5 to the bottom panel with a screw
●Parts to be used bottom panel driving wheel
looped string
bearing. front wheel bearing
screw C (2-by-5
(large, middle, small)
mm with a collar)
Put it in until it snaps.
driving wheel bottom panel
cover driving
tension spring wheel
(large, middle, small) front wheel
rubber rubber
front wheel ※At this point the front
front wheel bridge
connector front wheel wheel connector comes
auxiliary wheel right foot bearing off easily. Pay attention
front wheel left foot
3 pieces of screw not to lose the connector.
Screws to C’s 2-by-5 mm a piece of screw E front wheel
be used with a collar 2-by-6 mm
front wheel front wheel
Connect the front wheel bearing Hang the string attached to the

rubber ※ Select correct screws since all screws resemble in shape.
and the front wheel connector tension spring (small) on the
Insert each looped string into each tension spring. Note: In this “Let’s make the

1 Pay attention to the combinations. cart” section, only tension

spring (small) is used. At
this time, however, prepare
with the front wheel bridge and
fasten with screw C’s.
hook of the front wheel connector
with tweezers.
※When you use the
tension spring (small) looped string (small) front wheel bridge tweezers it may turn
all three tension springs by white at the pivot,
screw C (2- screw C (2- yet it is usable.
inserting strings to avoid
by-5 mm fold line
by-5 mm
tension spring (middle) looped string (middle) mistakes, since the three with a with a
parts look alike and may be collar) collar)
mistaken. Keep these hook
looped string (large) springs back in the bags front wheel
tension spring (large) connector
when they are ready. ◆Bend the tension
spring (small) with
Insert the end of a looped string your fingers until the
into the other end with a knot. ◆Attach the end of string reaches the
the front wheel hook, then hang the
Insert a string into bridge with a fold ※However the front wheel bridge string on the hook.
the hole at the tip of line to the front might twist reversely at the center,
wheel bearing. it is no problem. tension spring (small)
a tension spring. Pull and fasten it tight to the
spring as shown in the figure.
Move the front wheel connector Place the bottom panel with its
Insert the tension spring (small) Fit the front wheel connector to the 8 back and forth and make sure 9 face down and turn the screw E

2 into the socket on the bottom

plate.(Put it in completely like
3 projection of the bottom panel.
front wheel
the front wheel turns right and
left smoothly.
just a few times at this point.
◆Screw E is used for adjustment afterward.
the figure below.) ◆If the front wheel does not screw E
move smoothly, loosen the (2-by-6 mm)
screw and make an adjustment.
◆Please see
tension p.22 for the
spring ※Be careful
(small) not to mistake adjustment of
the hole. screw E.
◆Make sure the
direction of the
connector is like bottom panel
bottom panel this figure.
6 bottom panel bottom panel (backside)
新・カラクリ人形改訂英語版 07.4.24 5:11 PM ページ 7

Put the driving wheel cover on Fit the driving wheel rubber in
10 the driving wheel. 11 the groove between driving
wheel and driving wheel cover.
Let’s Install the Escapement!
●Parts to be used
driving wheel driving wheel escapement
cover rubber
driving wheel
driving wheel
escape wheel

left body escapement bridge escapement cock

2 piece of screw 4 pieces of screw

Screws to 3 pieces of screw
C’s, 2-by-5 mm F’s, 3-by-6 mm
be used E’s, 2-by-6 mm
◆Fit the projection of the driving wheel to the with a collar
holes of the driving wheel cover and snap in. ※ Select right screws since all screws resemble in shape.

Set the escape wheel in the Push the escapement bridge into
12 Attach the auxiliary wheel to
the shaft of the driving wheel. 13
Install feet inside the driving
wheel and auxiliary wheel. 1 socket of the left body. 2 the left body.
◆Push the projections at the top and the bottom of
(Be careful not to install right foot and left
auxiliary driving wheel escape wheel the escapement bridge into the holes of the left body.
wheel foot inversely.) At the same time, push the shaft of the escape wheel
◆Insert the point into the center hole of the escapement.
of the shaft in the
right foot left foot left body
◆The direction of hole at the bottom
the auxiliary wheel of the socket.
is like the figure. escape
left body
bottom panel

guide guide escapement

◆Push the shaft of driving Caution! : This is not the hole
mentioned above. bridge
wheel in shaft bearings of the ◆Cover the projections on the driving wheel and the
bottom panel. auxiliary wheel with U-shaped parts of feet.
Fit the feet with the guides on the bottom panel. Fasten the escapement

Now the cart is completed!

3 bridge to the left body
with screw E’s from the

You’ve finished screw E (2-by-6 mm)

the cart. Keep it ◆ These three screw E’s
screw E (2-by-6 mm)
have to be fastened
as it is until you
use it at p.18.
screw E (2-by-6 mm)

left body
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Attach four screw F's to the bottom parts of the escapement.

4 ◆ These four screw F’s

pallet Let’s Assemble the Chest Unit!
●Parts to be used Note: Tension springs
have to be fastened (middle and large) are
neck tension spring (middle)
firmly. screw F’s (3- going to be used. Strings
pallet (right)
have already been put
by-6 mm ) upper chest
screw F’s (3- tension spring (large) through these springs at
by-6 mm ) neck the “Let’s assemble the
(left) cart!” section.

front chest

neck bridge
neck joint (upper) lower chest neck joint (lower)
escapement 2 pieces of screw 1 piece of screw 4 pieces of screw
Screws to B’s, 2.6-by-5 mm
be used with a collar D, 2-by-10 mm E’s, 2-by-6 mm
Place the escapement
Put the escapement
on the escapement
bridge in the
left body
6 cock on the escapement
※ Select right screws carefully since all screws resemble in shape.

Put the neck joint (upper)

IMPORTANT Pay attention to the
direction like
this figure.
and fasten it with
screw C’s. 1 between the neck parts (right
and left) and fasten it with a
direction of the neck joint
screw E. flat part
screw C’s
escapement flat part
(2-by-5 mm
with a projection
escapement cock screw E
(2-by-6 mm)

Put the pallet in the neck joint

escapement. (upper) screw E
left body projection
escapement bridge (2-by-6 mm)

neck (left) neck (left)

neck (right)
The roll of the
Now the left escapement Attach screw B’s on the chest (upper) as

body is The main components of the

escapement are two cylindrical
2 the figure shows. Turn them a couple of
times and fasten them loose, so that a
Hold the chest and the neck
as shown in the figure, and
fasten them with screw B’s.
completed! parts with pallets attached on
the upper part of the shaft.
small space remains between collars of
screws and the chest. Fit the projection
The escapement controls the
You’ve finished installing speed of the rotation by of the neck into the groove.
the escapement to the left hanging the pallets on the
screw B’s, 2.6-
body. Look at the figure to wheels. The heavier are the by-5 mm with
sheet weights around the a collar
make sure that the
bottom parts of the shaft, the
escapement is correctly upper chest
more slowly the wheel rotates, flat part
attached. and the lighter, the faster.
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Check if the neck and the neck Put tension springs (large and Put the hole of the neck bridge Hold the bridge softly and fit the
4 joint (upper) move back and
forth smoothly.
5 middle) into frames on the
chest (lower) to the end as
10 on the projection of the neck
joint (upper).
11 front chest in the groove of the
lower chest.Turn the screw D for
shown in the figure. adjustment just a couple of times.
※Put in the upper
tension spring neck joint (upper)
Side View part of the front chest
(middle) first, then, fit the
Clatter! lower part in the
chest (lower) groove below.
<front side> screw D (2-by-
neck bridge 10 mm)
◆Be careful not to
take the large sheet groove
spring for middle, front chest
because both springs
◆See p.22 for the
tension have the same width, lower adjustment of the
spring although their chest screw D.
(large) lengths are different. neck bridge

Turn over the lower chest and Fasten the upper chest and Hang the string of the tension spring (large) on
6 put the neck joint (lower) on the
projection of the lower chest.
7 the lower chest with screw E’s
paying attention to the
12 the hook at the side of the neck with tweezers.

direction of each part. Side View

neck joint (lower) screw E (2-by-6 mm) neck
screw E (2-by-
lower chest 6 mm)
<backside> hook
◆Screw enough so
that the parts will
chest not slip out of the
◆Pay attention to the place.
direction. Attach the
joint in this direction ◆Bend the tension spring (large) with your
Side View
and angle as shown in fingers until the string reaches the hook, then
the figure. chest hang the string on the hook with tweezers.
◆ Pay attention to the direction.

Put the neck bridge in the hole Keep the neck bridge down.
Now the Chest Unit is Completed!
8 of the neck joint (lower). 9 You’ve finished the
Side View
chest unit. Look at
neck bridge
the figure to make
sure if it is correctly
neck bridge assembled.

◆Pay attention Side View

to the direction.

neck joint (lower)

neck joint
※Hold the part from the backside with
12 (lower) 13
fingers so that you can see the hole.
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Attach the reversal stopper B and the rotary wheel B to the large wheel.
Let’s Assemble the Motive Power Unit! 3
●Parts to be used
①Put the reversal stopper ②Fit the rotary wheel B
mainspring shaft
arm shaft B on the projection of the in the center hole of the ③Make sure that the
adjuster large wheel. large wheel. rotary wheel B turns in
the only one direction
reversal rotary
reversal stopper B stopper B clattering.
rotary wheel B wheel B Clatt
rotary plate
rubber band

rotary wheel A reversal stopper A large wheel mainspring

right body

Screws to 8 pieces of screw 1 piece of screw B, 2.6- 1 piece of screw D,

large wheel
be used A’s, 3-by-8 mm by-5 mm with a collar 2-by-10 mm

※ Select right screws since all screws resemble in shape. Put the mainspring shaft through the rotary plate first, then though the

Attach the adjuster to the rotary plate. Put the The adjuster can move left 4 large wheel in the direction as shown in the figure.

1 adjuster on the projection and fasten with a screw B. and right to some extent
by loosening the screw B.

screw B (2.6-by-5 mm with a collar)


rotary plate

◆At this point, fasten mainspring shaft

the adjuster temporarily
with a screw B. See p.22
for the adjustment of the large wheel
rotary plate

Put the rubber band into the large wheel

Turn over the rotary plate and attach the reversal stopper A and rotary
wheel A in the right direction. ③Make sure that the rotary
5 mainspring shaft to the end so
that the parts don’t come apart. rotary wheel A
wheel A turns to only one rotary wheel B
①Place the rotary plate with its ②Fit the rotary wheel A in rotary plate
backside (without a screw) up the center hole of the rotary direction clattering. (The
rubber band
and put the reversal stopper A on plate. mechanism a wheel can turn
the projection. rotary only in one direction like
reversal stopper A
※Put it on to
wheel A this, is called “ratchet
the end. mechanism”.) Cl
rotary plate atter!
◆ Side view is
rubber band mainspring shaft
like this figure.

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Attach the mainspring to the Fasten the mainspring to the Insert the mainspring shaft into the center hole of the mainspring, while
6 right body in the direction like
the figure below.
7 right body with screw A’s. 10 holding up the neck joint (lower) so that it isn’t in the way.

◆ Fit the two small ◆ These two ◆ Put your finger through
projections of mainspring screw A’s have to the front chest and push the
in the holes of the right be fastened neck bridge to raise the neck
body. firmly, not push joint (lower).
mainspring temporarily.
projection mainspring

screw A neck joint (lower)

(3-by-8 mm) go up


screw A
projection mainspring shaft
(3-by-8 mm)
right body right body
small projection

Attach the chest unit finished Fasten the chest unit to the
8 at p.13 to the right body. 9 right body with screw A’s.
Fasten a screw D for adjustment to the arm shaft loose. Then, put the arm
shaft through the front chest till the tip comes out from the hole of the right
screw D
chest unit ※ Screw just four or five times (2-by-10 mm)
to fasten loose.
screw A
(3-by-8 mm)
arm shaft
◆ See p.22 for the
screw A adjustment of the
(3-by-8 mm) screw.
◆ Put four projections
of the chest unit in the ◆ Fasten these ◆ After the mainspring shaft was put in, the neck
holes of the right body. two screw A’s a joint (lower) goes between the rotary plate and the
little bit loose
and leave a room large wheel as shown in the figure.
to screw firmly
as a finishing.

right body

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Attach the left body to the chest unit.

12 ◆ Put four projections
◆ Fasten these two screw A’s
a little bit loose and leave a
Let’s Install Other Parts!
of the chest unit in the room to screw firmly as a
●Parts to be used head Screws to
holes of the left body. finishing.
right arm be used

left arm
screw A
(3-by-8 mm) 2 pieces of
screw D’s
tray 2-by-10 mm
auto-adjustment pin
screw A
(3-by-8 mm) Hang the string of the tension Attach the right and the left
1 spring (middle) on the hook of
the arm shaft.
2 arms to the arm shaft and fasten
with screw D’s.
◆ Bend the tension
spring (middle) with screw D screw D (2-by-10 mm)
your fingers until (2-by-10 mm)
◆ Thrust the tips the string reaches
of the arm shaft
the hook, then hang
and the mainspring left body the string on the
shaft out of the holes
hook with
of the left body.

tension spring (middle) right arm left arm

Place the body unit you Fasten the right body and
13 assembled above on the cart
you’ve finished on page 8.
14 the left body with screw A’s
from the backside of the cart. 3
Install the auto-adjustment pin.
◆ Put the point of the pin in the hole of
Insert the head into the neck
and insert the both arms into
the escapement bridge first, and then
◆ Put six projections of the left body and the the tray. Now you’ve done!
snap it to fit in the groove between the
right body in the holes of the cart firmly.
arm shaft and the lower chest.
◆ The projection of the mainspring comes to
the front. head

bottom panel
screw A screw A
(3-by-8 mm) (3-by-8 mm)
◆ Fasten these two screw A’s a little bit loose at tray
this point. Make sure that there is no distortion
all over, then fasten screw A’s (not only the two
screw A’s fastened now but also screw A’s
fastened loose at 9 and 12) again firmly. auto-adjustment pin
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The Finished Mechanical Doll

Let’s Do the Test Run
Set the doll on the flat place and When you put the teacup on

Check the action of each part
before you dress the doll.
1 wind up the mainspring with the
winding knob.
2 the tray, the doll starts
moving. First, it goes straight.
tension spring
※Do not fill the cup with
tea during the test so that
◆CHECK!◆ the tea might not be spilt.
escape wheel&
auto-adjustment pin

driving wheel&
large wheel
After the doll goes straight for a Return the teacup on the tray
3 while, it makes a bow. Then, take
the teacup and the doll stops.
4 and the doll starts moving
again. Then, it makes a turn.

front wheel connector&
◆CHECK!◆ front wheel bridge
bottom panel front wheel bridge
screw C
mm with
a collar)

After the turn, it goes straight. When the doll gets back to
5 6

front wheel connector the starting point, take the

projection teacup and the doll stops.

*When you don’t use the doll for a long time*

1. Be sure to take off the teacup from the tray, otherwise the tension
spring might deteriorate and become useless.
2. Be sure to leave the mainspring unwound. Loosen it completely.
It might become out of order, if it is left wound for a long time.

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Make Fine Adjustments to each part Check the Move of the Doll
Before your performance in front of guests, test a couple of times and grasp how each part works, how
long the doll moves and how it turns. Then make fine adjustments to each action as follows if necessary. If the doll moves as follows, you’ve made good adjustments. Check it now!

1. The angle of the neck→Adjust

the screw at the chest.
2. The angle of the tray →Adjust the
screw at the arm shaft.
When you
The screw at the front chest is to adjust Adjust the angle of the tray so that it
return the
the neck angle. Turn it clockwise or becomes level when you put on the teacup on the
counterclockwise to adjust. teacup. tray, the doll
2 starts again
When the doll makes and makes a
the screw for a bow, pick up the turn this time.
the screw for adjustment
adjustment Remove teacup. Then, the
the head. arms go up, the auto-
*Before you make
adjustment pin is
this adjustment,
caught between the
unwind the
cogs of the
escapement wheel 4
and the doll stops. After making a
When you turn the screw clockwise, When you turn the screw clockwise, turn, the doll
the doll looks downward. the arms go up. goes straight.
When you turn the screw counter- When you turn the screw counter- Now the doll
clockwise, the doll looks upward. clockwise, the arms go down. repeats the
same move as
3. Course→Adjust the screw at 4. The angle of the turn→Move the
1 1 actually.
Wind up the
the bottom panel. adjuster at the rotary plate.
mainspring. Put
Adjust the doll so that it goes Loosen the screw before you move the
the teacup on the
straightforward. (If you don’t make this adjuster. Adjust the angle of the turn.
tray. Then, the arm
adjustment, the doll tends to go
rightward.) When the doll doesn’t go
Look at the consecutive action of the doll
and adjust so that it makes good turn.
goes down, the auto- 5
adjustment pin
When the doll
straight, adjust this screw. adjuster becomes off and the
comes back,
doll starts moving.
pick up the
First, the doll goes
teacup. Then,
Loosen this straightforward.
the doll stops.
the screw for screw to move This is the end
the adjuster. of a series of
These are the three basic moves of the doll.
rotary plate 1. The doll starts moving when the teacup is put
When you move the adjuster
on the tray and stops when the teacup is taken.
When you turn the screw rightward, the angle of the 2. The doll goes straight about a fixed distance
clockwise, the doll goes rightward. turn becomes larger.
When you turn the screw counter- When you move the adjuster (90 cm at the longest).
leftward, the angle of the
clockwise, the doll goes leftward. turn becomes smaller. 3. The doll turns after it makes a bow.
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Make the Final Adjustment Before your Performance ●How to Dress the Doll
When you finish the adjustments on
Wind up the mainspring. ★Before you start dressing ★
p.22, make the final adjustment before
you show the doll to your guest.(This
1 Put on guards (upper and
lower) beforehand so that
guard (upper)
guard (lower)
adjustment is possible after the doll is the dress is not caught in ◆ Pay attention
dressed. In that case, pull the hakama wheels. to the direction.
up.) ● Adjust the distance between the
starting point and where the doll bows 1 Dress the kimono tops. Parts to be used
in front of your guest. 1. Cut a both side adhesive 2. Put each arm through sleeves of the hakama
tape into 10cm. Put it on the kimono top 1 and the 2. Peel the thin skirt

inside of the back margin of paper from the adhesive tape and paste
the kimono top 1 (the left the both sides of kimono tops together at
side when you face it). the back. kimono
Align the kimono top 2
top 1 chanchanko
collars of
both tops. vest

When you wind up the mainspring, the adjuster at the rotary plate comes to
2 the position shown in the figure below. Turn the rotary plate clockwise and
change the position to suite the distance between you and the guest. (The
both side
adhesive tape

2 Dress the hakama skirt. 2. Bring the back laces to the front and tie them at
more you turn, the less the distance becomes. Take a look at the figure
1. Unfold the hakama skirt and put the front. (Cover the back knot with the hakama skirt.
below and adjust the distance.)
through the doll from the bottom. Bring Make the back part higher and the front part lower.)
※ Be sure to turn the rotary When the adjuster is at this ※ Check the collar, the nape, the neckline and the position
the front laces back and tie them at the
plate always clockwise. position, the doll goes straight of the hakama skirt. If they are all right, cut the rest of the
back.(Tie the laces at the height as shown
about 45 cm. adhesive tape and fasten the front with it.
in the figure below. Adjust the skirt so
When the mainspring is wound, that the insteps come out a little bit.) Note: If the front is
the adjuster comes to this position. ◆Note: Keep the screw of the crossed too tight,
The doll goes straight about 90 cm adjuster as it is. (Do not loosen it the doll can’t bow.
(the longest) if you set the doll in and change the position of the Check if the neck
motion in this condition. can move back and
adjuster itself.) the back
part forth before you
higher fasten the front
●If the doll doesn’t move successfully after all adjustments, check the following points.● with a tape.
the front part lower
★The doll starts right after you wind up the ★The doll bows from the beginning. →The
mainspring without putting the teacup on tension spring (large) might not be working 3 Dress the chanchanko vest. Finished!
the tray. →The tension spring (middle) well. Knot the string twice and make the Take off the head. Turn the
might not be working well. Knot the string loop smaller or change the tension spring vest upside down and put the
twice and make the loop smaller or change (large) with a spare. both arms through sleeve
the tension spring (middle) with a spare. ★The doll doesn’t make a bow at all.→If the holes as shown in the figure.
★The doll doesn’t go straight after the turn. doll is dressed already and if it is too tight Dress the vest as it covers the
→The tension spring (small) might not be around the neck, the doll can’t bow. In this neck. Tie the laces. (If the
working well. Knot the string twice and case, loosen the Kimono a little so that the front knot comes out forward,
doll can move the neck. fasten with an adhesive tape.) ↑Take off the head
make the loop smaller or change the tension
and dress the ↑Attach the tray. Be
spring (small) with a spare. Put the head on again. Now ↑Tie the
chanchanko vest. careful that the front laces
you’ve finished! front laces.
24 do not touch the tray. 25
新・カラクリ人形改訂英語版 07.4.24 5:11 PM ページ 25

Mechanisms of the Karakuri Mechanical Doll

What mechanisms make this doll move? ●The mechanism of a bow
This doll makes a bow politely when it brings a
This karakuri doll is basically modeled after the mechanisms described in the cup of tea to the guest. What a charming action
it is! The part that controls this action is the
“Karakuri Zui”. The very best technologies of the Edo period(1603~1867) are applied
rotary plate. When the projection catches the
to the mechanisms of the doll. part extended from the neck, the front of the
●The mechanism of a start and a stop neck is pulled and the head goes down. When
What takes on the switching system for a start and a stop the projection gets out of the place, the neck is
is the auto-adjustment pin connected with the arms. (The released and the head goes back to the former
in the figure of the "Karakuri Zui") When you put the position. Since the rotary plate also controls the
teacup on the tray, the arms go down and the pin goes up. front wheel, the doll always makes a bow before
This pin plays the role of the stopper for the cogwheel. it makes a turn coordinately.
When the pin goes up, the stopper becomes off and the
cogwheel starts turning. When you take the teacup, the
arms go up and the stopper works and the cogwheel stops.
●The mechanism of adjusting the speed
What controls the speed is a cogwheel at the back
No.1 wheel part called “gyojirin”. (See the picture.) Being
caught in the cogwheel, the two stoppers at the
●The mechanism of going straight escapement controls the rotation. The technology
When the mainspring loosens, it generates power. used for the escapement of a
This power first effects on the No.1 wheel. This Japanese clock is applied to this
wheel has 80 cogs. The power is transmitted to the mechanism. The sheet weights
No.2 wheel, and it has 12 cogs. Based on the around the speed control bar have
calculation, the No.2 wheel turns about 7 times made the finer speed control possible.
while No.1 wheel turns once. After 5 turns,
however, the projection at the rotary plate begins No.2 wheel
to push the front wheel. The doll moves about 18
cm while the No.2 wheel turns once, so it goes
straight about 90 cm long before the projection
catches the front wheel (and the doll begins to
turn). For the mainspring, the “Karakuri Zui” ●The mechanism of the
specifies that a whale fin should be used. shuffle walk
While the doll is moving, its feet move
back and forth. It looks as if the doll
conforms to the manners of the tea
●The mechanism of a turn
ceremony and shuffles forward. This
What takes on a turn is the little wheel at the unique walk style is realized by the
bottom. The angle of the wheel decides the course of crank movement made by the pivots
the doll just like the front wheel of a tricycle controlling the move of each foot,
determines its route. The angle of the wheel changes since their shafts are not aligned with
by being pushed by the rotary plate. The doll the center of the driving wheels. The
continues to turn right while the wheel is pushed. "Karakuri Zui" instructs that the left
When the front wheel connector gets off the pivot should be attached forward and
projection, the wheel goes back to the former position right pivot backward.
and the doll goes straight. You can control the angle
of the turn by adjusting the projection.

26 References:Tachikawa, Shoji, Yomigaeru Karakuri (The Revival of the Karakuri Mechanism): NTT Publishing Company. 27
Tachikawa, Shoji and coauthors, Zusetu Karakuri (The Illustrated Karakuri Mechanism): Kawade Syobo Shinsha Publishing Company.