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Seat Ibiza

Owners Workshop Manual
Martynn Randall
Models covered (4889 - 320)

Ibiza Hatchback
Petrol: 1.2 litre (1198cc) & 1.4 litre (1390cc)
Turbo-Diesel: 1.4 litre (1422cc) & 1.9 litre (1896cc)

Does NOT cover models with 1.6, 1.8 or 2.0 litre petrol engines or 1.9 litre non-turbo diesel engine
Does NOT cover Cupra models, or new model range introduced May 2008

ABCDE
© Haynes Publishing 2010 FGHIJ
KLMNO
PQRS
A book in the Haynes Owners Workshop Manual Series

All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced or Printed in the USA
transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical,
including photocopying, recording or by any information storage or Haynes Publishing
retrieval system, without permission in writing from the copyright Sparkford, Yeovil, Somerset BA22 7JJ, England
holder.
Haynes North America, Inc
ISBN 978 1 84425 889 5 861 Lawrence Drive, Newbury Park, California 91320, USA

British Library Cataloguing in Publication Data Haynes Publishing Nordiska AB
A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library. Box 1504, 751 45 UPPSALA, Sverige
Contents
LIVING WITH YOUR SE AT IBIZA
Introduction Page 0*4
Safety first! Page 0»5

Roadside repairs
If your car won't start Page 0»6 /
Jump starting Page 0*7
Wheel changing Page 0*8
Identifying leaks Page 0»9
Towing Page 0*9

Weekly checks
Introduction Page 0»10
Underbonnet check points Page 0*10
Engine oil level Page 0*11
Coolant level Page 0*11
Brake (and clutch) fluid level Page 0*12
Screen washer fluid level Page 0«12
Battery Page 0»13
Wiper blades Page 0*13
Tyre condition and pressure Page 0»14
Electrical systems Page 0-15

Lubricants and fluids Page 0-16

Tyre pressures Page O16

MAINTENANCE
Routine maintenance and s rvicing
Seat Ibiza petrol models Page 1A«1
Servicing specifications Page 1A»2
Maintenance schedule Page 1A«3
Maintenance procedures Page 1A»5
Seat Ibiza diesel models Page 1B»1
Servicing specifications Page 1B»2
Maintenance schedule Page 1B«3
Maintenance procedures Page 1B»5

Illegal Copying

It is the policy of Haynes Publishing to actively protect its Copyrights and Trade Marks. Legal action will be taken against anyone who unlawfully
copies the cover or contents of this Manual. This includes all rms of unauthorised copying including digital, mechanical, and electronic in any
form. Authorisation from Haynes Publishing will only be provid id expressly and in writing. Illegal copying will also be reported to the appropriate
statutory authorities.
Contents
REPAIRS & OVERHAUL
Engine and associated systems
1 .2 litre petrol engine in-car repair procedures Page 2A«1
1 .4 litre petrol engine in-car repair procedures Page 2B»1
Diesel engine in-car repair procedures Page 2O1
Engine removal and overhaul procedures Page 2D»1
Cooling, heating and ventilation systems Page 3*1
Fuel systems - petrol engine Page 4A»1
Fuel systems - diesel engine Page 4B«1
Emission control and exhaust systems Page 4O1
Starting and charging systems Page 5A«1
Ignition system - petrol engines Page 5B-1

Transmission
Clutch Page 6*1
Manual transmission Page 7A»1
Automatic transmission Page 7B»1
Driveshafts Page 8«1

Brakes and suspension
Braking system Page 9*1
Suspension and steering Page 10*1

Body equipment
Bodywork and fittings Page 11*1
Body electrical systems Page 12*1

Wiring diagrams Page 12-17

REFERENCE
Dimensions and weights Page REF-1
Fuel economy Page REF»2
Conversion factors Page REF»6
Buying spare parts Page REF»7
Vehicle identification numbers Page REF»7
General repair procedures Page REF«8
Jacking and vehicle support Page REF»9
Tools and working facilities Page REF«10
MOT test checks Page REF«12
Fault finding Page REF«16

Index Page REF-25
o«4 Introduction
the rear loadspace. The new speed-sensitive
power steering system fitted to all models
has an electric hydraulic pump, rather than an
engine-driven one.
A wide range of standard and optional
equipment is available within the Ibiza range
to suit most tastes. All models have electric
mirrors, tinted glass, four airbags, power
steering and ABS as standard, with central
locking, electric windows and air conditioning
available further up the range.
Provided that regular servicing is carried
out in accordance with the manufacturer's
recommendations, the Seat Ibiza should
prove a reliable and economical small car. The
engine compartment is well-designed, and
most of the items needing frequent attention
are easily accessible.

Your Seat Ibiza manual
The aim of this manual is to help you get the
best value from your car. It can do so in several
ways. It can help you decide what work must
be done (even should you choose to get it done
by a garage). It will also provide information on
routine maintenance and servicing, and give a
The Seat Ibiza range covered by this TDI unit and the 1.4 litre PD (Pumpe Duse) logical course of action and diagnosis when
manual was introduced to the UK market in unit. Both eni iines are turbocharged and have random faults occur. However, it is hoped
April 2002. Using the same new A04 platform an intercoolei that you will use the manual by tackling the
as its Seat Group sister cars, the Skoda Fabia All the engines are of overhead camshaft work yourself. On simpler jobs it may even
and VW Polo, the car represents a substantial design, mounted transversely, with the be quicker than booking the car into a garage
update on the preceding Ibiza range. At its transmission mounted on the left-hand side, and going there twice, to leave and collect it.
launch, the car drew praise for its build quality All models a five- or six-speed manual Perhaps most important, a lot of money can
and 'big-car feel' - not surprising, since it is transmissioh or four-speed automatic be saved by avoiding the costs a garage must
nearly as big as a Mk 3 VW Golf. transmission, charge to cover its labour and overheads.
The 1.4 litre petrol engines are derived from All model: have fully-independent front The manual has drawings and
well-proven units which have appeared in suspension, mounted on a subframe. The descriptions to show the function of the
many VW vehicles, but there's a new 1.2 litre rear suspen ion is semi-independent, with various components so that their layout
3-cylinder unit appearing for the first time in suspension truts, trailing arms and a 'self- can be understood. Tasks are described
the Ibiza. steering' tor ;ion beam axle. The compact and photographed in a clear step by step
The diesel engines are all familiar units from rear springs re mounted separately from the sequence. The illustrations are numbered by
the VW range: the 1.9 litre PD (Pumpe Duse) shock absor ers, to minimise intrusion into the Section number and paragraph number to
which they relate - if there is more than one
illustration per paragraph, the sequence is
denoted alphabetically.
References to the 'left' or 'right' of the car
are in the sense of a person in the driver's
seat, facing forwards.

Acknowledgements
Thanks are due to Draper tools Limited, who
provided some of the workshop tools, and to
all those people at Sparkford who helped in
the production of this manual.
This manual is not a direct reproduction
of the vehicle manufacturer's data, and its
publication should not be taken as implying
any technical approval by the vehicle
manufacturers or importers.
We take great pride in the accuracy of
information given in this manual, but car
manufacturers make alterations and design
changes during the production run of a
particular car of which they do not inform
us. No liability can be accepted by the
authors or publishers for loss, damage or
injury caused by any errors in, or omissions
from, the information given.
Safety Firstl 0.5
Working on your car can be dangerous. • Mains voltage is also dangerous. Make
This page shows just some of the potential sure that any mains-operated equipment is Special hazards
risks and hazards, with the aim of creating a correctly earthed. Mains power points should
safety-conscious attitude.
Hydrofluoric acid
be protected by a residual current device
(RCD) circuit breaker. • This extremely corrosive acid is formed
General hazards Fume or gas intoxication
when certain types of synthetic rubber, found
in some O-rings, oil seals, fuel hoses etc, are
Scalding • Exhaust fumes are exposed to temperatures above 400°C. The
• Don't remove the radiator or expansion poisonous; they often rubber changes into a charred or sticky
tank cap while the engine is hot. contain carbon substance containing the acid. Once formed,
• Engine oil, automatic transmission fluid or monoxide, which is the acid remains dangerous for years. If it
power steering fluid may also be dangerously rapidly fatal if inhaled. gets onto the skin, it may be necessary to
hot if the engine has recently been running. Never run the amputate the limb concerned.
engine in a • When dealing with a vehicle which has
Burning confined space suffered a fire, or with components salvaged
• Beware of burns from the exhaust system such as a garage from such a vehicle, wear protective gloves
and from any part of the engine. Brake discs with the doors shut. and discard them after use.
and drums can also be extremely hot • Fuel vapour is also The battery
immediately after use. poisonous, as are the vapours from some
cleaning solvents and paint thinners. • Batteries contain sulphuric acid, which
Crushing attacks clothing, eyes and skin. Take care
• When working under or near Poisonous or irritant substances when topping-up or carrying the battery.
a raised vehicle, • Avoid skin contact with battery acid and • The hydrogen gas given off by the battery
always with any fuel, fluid or lubricant, especially is highly explosive. Never cause a spark or
supplement the antifreeze, brake hydraulic fluid and Diesel allow a naked light nearby. Be careful when
jack with axle fuel. Don't syphon them by mouth. If such a connecting and disconnecting battery
stands, or use substance is swallowed or gets into the eyes, chargers or jump leads.
drive-on seek medical advice. Air bags
ramps. ((( • Prolonged contact with used engine oil can
Never cause skin cancer. Wear gloves or use a • Air bags can cause injury if they go off
venture barrier cream if necessary. Change out of oil- accidentally. Take care when removing the
under a car which soaked clothes and do not keep oily rags in steering wheel and/or facia. Special storage
is only supported by a jack. your pocket. instructions may apply.
• Take care if loosening or tightening high- • Air conditioning refrigerant forms a Diesel injection equipment
torque nuts when the vehicle is on stands. poisonous gas if exposed to a naked flame
Initial loosening and final tightening should be (including a cigarette). It can also cause skin • Diesel injection pumps supply fuel at very
done with the wheels on the ground. burns on contact. high pressure. Take care when working on
the fuel injectors and fuel pipes.
Fire Asbestos
• Fuel is highly flammable; fuel vapour is • Asbestos dust can cause cancer if inhaled Warning: Never expose the hands,
explosive. or swallowed. Asbestos may be found in face or any other part of the body
• Don't let fuel spill onto a hot engine. gaskets and in brake and clutch linings. to injector spray; the fuel can
• Do not smoke or allow naked lights When dealing with such components it is penetrate the skin with potentially fatal
(including pilot lights) anywhere near a safest to assume that they contain asbestos. results.
vehicle being worked on. Also beware of
creating sparks
(electrically or by use of tools).
• Fuel vapour is heavier than air, so don't Remember...
work on the fuel system with the vehicle over DON'T
an inspection pit. DO
• Another cause of fire is an electrical • Do use eye protection when using power • Don't attempt to lift a heavy component
overload or short-circuit. Take care when tools, and when working under the vehicle. which may be beyond your capability - get
repairing or modifying the vehicle wiring. assistance.
• Do wear gloves or use barrier cream to
• Keep a fire extinguisher handy, of a type protect your hands when necessary. • Don't rush to finish a job, or take
suitable for use on fuel and electrical fires. unverified short cuts.
• Do get someone to check periodically
Electric shock that all is well when working alone on the • Don't use ill-fitting tools which may slip
• Ignition HT vehicle. and cause injury.
voltage can be • Do keep loose clothing and long hair well • Don't leave tools or parts lying around
dangerous, out of the way of moving mechanical parts. where someone can trip over them. Mop
especially to up oil and fuel spills at once.
people with heart • Do remove rings, wristwatch etc, before
working on the vehicle - especially the • Don't allow children or pets to play in or
problems or a
electrical system. near a vehicle being worked on.
pacemaker. Don't
work on or near the • Do ensure that any lifting or jacking
ignition system with equipment has a safe working load rating
the engine running or adequate for the job.
the ignition switched on.
o-6 Roadsiderepairs
The following pages are intended to help in dealing wiflh common roadside emergencies and breakdowns. You will find more
detailed fault finding information at the back of the manual, and repair information in the main chapters.

If your car won't start and If your car won't start even
the starter motor doesn't though the starter motor
turn turns as normal
j If it's a model with automatic transmission, make sure the selector [H Is there fuel in the tank?
is in P or N. ill Has the engine immobiliser been deactivated? This should happen
j Open the bonnet and make sure that the battery terminals ate automatically on inserting the ignition key. However, if a replacement
clean and tight. key has been obtained, other than from a Seat dealer, it may not
1 Switch on the headlights and try to start the engine. If the contain the transponder chip necessary to deactivate the system.
headlights go very dim when you're trying to start, the batte LJ Is there moisture on electrical components under the bonnet?
probably flat. Get out of trouble by jump starting (see next Switch off the ignition, then wipe off any obvious dampness with
using a friend's car. a dry cloth. Spray a water-repellent aerosol product (WD-40 or
equivalent) on electrical connectors like those shown in the photos.
Pay special attention to the DIS ignition module's wiring connector.
(Note that diesel engines don't usually suffer from damp.)

A Check the condition and security of the Check the fuses and fusible links in the
battery connections. located on top of the battery,

Check the wiring to the ignition coils
; beneath the engine top cover (petrol
models only).

l***fct»w -T^ , • .1 1 i I - m - •• -<m*f^t -**-\k that electrical connections are secure (with the

a water-dispersant spray like WD-40 if you suspect a problefri due to damp. D Check that all engine wiring is secure and
undamaged.
Roadside repairs 0*7

Jump starting Jump starting will get you out
of trouble, but you must correct
When jump-starting a car using a booster • Make sure that the booster battery is the HiNT whatever made the battery go
battery, observe the following precautions: same voltage as the discharged one in flat in the first place. There are
the vehicle. three possibilities:
• Before connecting the booster battery,
make sure that the ignition is switched
• If the battery is being jump-started from
T The battery has been drained by
repeated attempts to start, or by
leaving the lights on.
off.
the battery in another vehicle, the two
• Ensure that all electrical equipment
(lights, heater, wipers, etc) is switched off.
vehicles MUST NOT TOUCH each other.
2 The charging system is not working
properly (alternator drivebelt slack
or broken, alternator wiring fault or
Make sure that the transmission is in alternator itself faulty).
• Take note of any special precautions neutral (or PARK, in the case of automatic
printed on the battery case. transmission).
3 The battery itself is at fault
(electrolyte low, or battery worn out).

Connect one end of the red jump lead to Connect the other end of the red lead to Connect one end of the black jump lead
the positive (+) terminal of the flat the positive (+) terminal of the booster to the negative (-) terminal of the booster
battery battery. battery

Connect the other end of the black jump
ead to a bolt or bracket on the engine
block, well away from the battery, on the
vehicle to be started.

Make sure that the jump leads will not
come into contact with the fan, drive-belts
or other moving parts of the engine.

Start the engine using the booster
battery and run it at idle speed. Switch
on the lights, rear window demister and
heater blower motor, then disconnect
the jump leads in the reverse order of
connection. Turn off the lights etc.
Roadside repairs
Wheel changing
Warning: Do not change a wheel in a situation wih^re you risk being hit by other traffic. On busy roads, try to stop in a lay-by or
a gateway. Be wary of passing traffic while changing the wheel - it is easy to become distracted by the job in hand.
Preparation
] When a puncture occurs, stop as soon as D If you hav ! one, use a warning triangle to LJ Chock the wheel diagonally opposite the
it is safe to do so. alert othei drivers of your presence. one being removed - a couple of large
[J Park on firm level ground, if possible, and Apply the nandbrake and engage first stones will do for this.
well out of the way of other traffic. or reverse gear (or Park on models with D If the ground is soft, use a flat piece of
] Use hazard warning lights if necessary. automatic! transmission). wood to spread the load under the jack.
Changing the wheel

IThe spare wheel and tools are stored in
the luggage compartment. Lift out the
jack and wheel changing tools from the
Unscrew the retainer and lift out the
wheel.
Use the wire hook and wheel brace to
3 onremove the wheel trim, or the centre cap
some alloy wheels. Where applicable,
centre of the spare wheel. use the plastic puller from the tool kit to remove
the cover from each wheel bolt, including the
anti-theft bolt.

Slacken each wheel bolt by half a turn Locate t jack below the reinforced point Unscrew the wheel bolts and remove the
(using the special splined adapter for the
anti-theft bolt).
on the si (don't jack the vehicle at any
t of the sill) and on firm ground,
6 the
wheel. Fit the spare wheel, and screw in
bolts. Lightly tighten the bolts with
then turn the ack handle clockwise until the the wheelbrace then lower the vehicle to the
wheel is raise clear of the ground. ground.

Finally . . .
D Stow the jack and tools in the spare wheel.
D Check the tyre pressure on the wheel just
fitted. If it is low, or if you don't have a
pressure gauge with you, drive slowly to
the nearest garage and inflate the tyre to
the correct pressure.
Note: If a temporary 'space-saver' spare
wheel has been fitted, special conditions
apply to its use. This type of spare wheel is
only intended for use in an emergency, and
Securely tighten the wheel bolts in the
7 sequence shown then refit the wheel trim/ 1
When ref tting the centre cap, ensure the
tab engai es correctly with the cut-out in
should not remain fitted any longer than it
takes to get the punctured wheel repaired.
hub cap. Stow the punctured wheel back the whee centre. While the temporary wheel is in use, ensure it
in the spare wheel well. Note that the wheel is inflated to the correct pressure, do not exceed
bolts should be tightened to the specified 50 mph, and avoid harsh acceleration, braking
torque at the earliest possible opportunity. or cornering.
Roadside repairs 0.9
Identifying leaks
Puddles on the garage floor or drive, or Warning: Most automotive oils
obvious wetness under the bonnet or and fluids are poisonous. Wash The smell of a fluid leaking
underneath the car, suggest a leak that needs them off skin, and change out from the car may provide a
investigating. It can sometimes be difficult to of contaminated clothing, HiNT clue to what's leaking. Some
decide where the leak is coming from, without delay. fluids are distinctively coloured.
especially if the engine bay is very dirty It may help to clean the car carefully
already. Leaking oil or fluid can also be blown and to park it over some clean paper
rearwards by the passage of air under the car, overnight as an aid to locating the
giving a false impression of where the source of the leak.
problem lies. Remember that some leaks may only
occur while the engine is running.

Sump oil Oil from filter Gearbox oil

Engine oil may leak from the drain plug... ...or from the base of the oil filter. Gearbox oil can leak from the seals at the
inboard ends of the driveshafts.

Antifreeze Brake fluid Power steering fluid

Leaking antifreeze often leaves a crystalline A leak occurring at a wheel is almost Power steering fluid may leak from the pipe
deposit like this. certainly brake fluid. connectors on the steering rack.

Towing
When all else fails, you may find yourself L_]A rear towing eye is provided below the the vacuum servo unit is only operational with
having to get a tow home - or of course right-hand side of the rear bumper. The front the engine running.
you may be helping somebody else. towing eye is located in the tool kit, and is L.J Because the power steering will not be
Long-distance recovery should only be screwed into position behind the vent/cover operational, greater-than-usual steering effort
done by a garage or breakdown service. For on the right-hand side of the front bumper. will also be required.
shorter distances, DIY towing using another Undo the bolt and remove the cover. The DThe driver of the car being towed must
car is easy enough, but observe the following eye has a left-hand thread, which means it keep the tow-rope taut at all times to avoid
points: screws in anti-clockwise. snatching.
[jUse a proper tow-rope - they are not [J Before being towed, release the handbrake [~]Make sure that both drivers know the route
expensive. The vehicle being towed must and select neutral on the transmission. On before setting off.
display an ON TOW sign in its rear window. models with automatic transmission, special [71 Only drive at moderate speeds and keep the
i j Always turn the igrutAon key to the 'On' precautions apply. If in doubt, do not tow, or distance towed to a minimum. Drive smoothly
position when the vehicle is being towed, transmission damage may result. and allow plenty of time for slowing down at
so that the steering lock is released, and the LJ Note that greater-than-usual pedal pressure junctions.
direction indicator and brake lights work. will be required to operate the brakes, since
o.io Weekly checks
Introduction
There are some very simple checks which H Keeping an eye on tyre condition and [J If your car develops a brake fluid leak, the
need only take a few minutes to carry out, but pressures, will not only help to stop them first time you might know about it is when your
which could save you a lot of inconvenience wearing out prj (maturely, but could also save brakes don't work properly. Checking the level
and expense. your life. regularly will give advance warning of this kind
These Weekly checks require no great skill or HMany breaki lowns are caused by electrical of problem.
special tools, and the small amount of time problems. Batfr !ry-related faults are particularly [ J If the oil or coolant levels run low, the cost
they take to perform could prove to be very common, and quick check on a regular basis of repairing any engine damage will be far
well spent, for example: will often previ it the majority of these. greater than fixing the leak, for example.

Underbonnet check points!
^ 1.2 litre petrol
(1.4 litre
similar)
A Engine oil level dipstick
B Engine oil filler cap
C Coolant expansion tank
D Brake (and clutch) fluid
reservoir
E Screen washer fluid
reservoir
F Battery

^ 1.4 litre diesel
(1.9 litre
similar)
A Engine oil level dipstick
B Engine oil filler cap
C Coolant expansion tank
D Brake (and clutch) fluid
reservoir
E Screen washer fluid
reservoir
F Battery
Weekly checks
Engine oil level
Before you start
• Make sure that the car is on level ground.

T
• Check the oil level before the car is driven,
or at least 5 minutes after the engine has been
switched off.

If the oil is checked
immediately after driving the
vehicle, some of the oil will
T
remain in the upper engine The dipstick is often brightly coloured for Note the level on the end of the dipstick. It
components, resulting in an inaccurate Ipoints
easy identification (see Underbonnet check
for exact location). Withdraw the
2 is satisfactory for the level to be anywhere
in the dotted area. The notches on the
reading on the dipstick.
dipstick and use a clean rag or paper towel to dipstick represent the absolute MAX and MIN
wipe the oil from it. Insert the dipstick into the marks.
The correct oil tube as far as it will go, then withdraw it again.
Modern engines place great demands on their
oil. It is very important that the correct oil for
your car is used (see Lubricants and fluids).

Car care
• If you have to add oil frequently, you should
check whether you have any oil leaks. Place
some clean paper under the car overnight,
and check for stains in the morning. If there
are no leaks, then the engine may be burning
oil.
• Always maintain the level between the
upper and lower dipstick marks. If the level is Oil is added through the filler cap aperture. Place some cloth rags around the filler
too low, severe engine damage may occur. Oil
seal failure may result if the engine is overfilled
I
Unscrew the cap. 4 cap aperture, then top-up the level. A
funnel may help to reduce spillage. Add
by adding too much oil. the oil slowly, checking the level on the dipstick
frequently. Avoid overfilling (see Car care).

Coolant level
Warning: Do not attempt to Car care
remove the expansion tank • With a sealed-type cooling system, adding • It is important that antifreeze is used in the
pressure cap when the engine is coolant should not be necessary on a regular cooling system all year round, not just during
hot, as there is a very great risk basis. If frequent topping-up is required, it is the winter months. Don't top up with water
of scalding. Do not leave open likely there is a leak. Check the radiator, all alone, as the antifreeze will become diluted.
containers of coolant about, as it hoses and joint faces for signs of staining or
is poisonous. wetness, and rectify as necessary.

The coolant level varies with the
temperature of the engine. When the
If topping-up is necessary, wait until the
engine is cold. Slowly unscrew the cap
to release any pressure present in the
3 Add a mixture of water and the specified
antifreeze (see Lubricants and fluids) to
the expansion tank until the coolant level
engine is cold, the coolant level should be
between the MIN and MAX marks. cooling system, and remove the cap. is halfway between the level marks. Refit the
cap and tighten it securely. Note that some
antifreeze is supplied pre-mixed with water
('ready to use'), and that no more water should
be added to it.
o-i2 Weekly checks
Brake (and clutch) fluid lev
Note: On manual transmission models, the Safety f i Warning: Brake fluid can harm
fluid reservoir also supplies the clutch master your eyes and damage painted
• If the reserv iir requires repeated topping-up
cylinder with fluid. surfaces, so use extreme caution
this is an indie ation of a fluid leak somewhere
when handling and pouring it. Do not
in the system which should be investigated
Before you start immediately.
use fluid that has been standing open for
• Make sure that the car is on level ground. some time, as it absorbs moisture from the
• Cleanliness is of great importance when • If a leak is suspected, the car should not air, which can cause a dangerous loss of
dealing with the braking system, so take be driven unt the braking system has been braking effectiveness.
care to clean around the reservoir cap before checked. Nev r take any risks where brakes
topping-up. Use only clean brake fluid. are concernec

Carefully add fluid, taking care not to spill
I The MIN and MAX marks are indicated on
the reservoir. The fluid level must be kept
If toppirb-up is necessary, first wipe
clean thilarea around the filler cap to
3 only
it onto the surrounding components. Use
the specified fluid (see Lubricants
between the marks at all times. Note that prevent c rt entering the hydraulic system. and fluids)', mixing different types can cause
the level will drop naturally as the brake pad Unscrew end remove the reservoir cap. damage to the system. On completion,
linings wear, but must never be allowed to fall securely refit the cap and wipe away any spilt
below the MIN mark. fluid.

Screen washer fluid
• Screenwash additives not only keep the
windscreen clean during bad weather, they
also prevent the washer system freezing in
cold weather - which is when you are likely to
need it most. Don't top-up using plain water,
as the screenwash will become diluted, and
will freeze in cold weather.

Caution: On no account use engine coolant
antifreeze in the screen washer system -
this may damage the paintwork.

1The scrdenwash fluid reservoir is located
on thef left-hand side of the engine
When topping-up the reservoir, a
screenwash additive should be added
comparament, behind the headlight. in the quantities recommended on the
Pull up thejffiller cap to release it from the bottle.
reservoir.
Weekly checks o 13
Battery
Caution: Before carrying out any work on
the vehicle battery, read the precautions
given in 'Safety first!' at the start of this
manual.
• Make sure that the battery tray is in
good condition, and that the clamp is tight.
Corrosion on the tray, retaining clamp and the
battery itself can be removed with a solution
of water and baking soda. Thoroughly rinse
all cleaned areas with water. Any metal parts
damaged by corrosion should be covered with
a zinc-based primer, then painted.
• Periodically (approximately every three
months), check the charge condition of the
battery as described in Chapter 5A. A 'magic
eye' charge indicator is fitted to the standard
IThe battery is located in the front left-hand
corner of the engine compartment. Release 2 Check the security and condition of all
the battery and fuse connections. The
the catch at the back and swing the battery exterior of the battery should be inspected
battery - if the indicator shows green, then cover (where fitted) upwards and forwards to periodically for damage such as a cracked
the battery is in good condition and charged gain access to the battery terminals. case or cover.
up. If the indicator turns darker, eventually
to black, then the battery requires charging.
If the indicator shows clear/yellow, then the
electrolyte is low and in a critical condition,
and should be topped-up with distilled water.
If charging the battery does not return the eye
to green, the battery should be scrapped
• If the battery is flat, and you need to jump
start your vehicle, see Roadside Repairs.

If corrosion (white, fluffy deposits) is
3 evident, remove the cables from the
. . . as well as the battery cable clamps.
Note: Seat specifically prohibit the use of
battery terminals (refer to Chapter 5A), grease on the battery terminals.
clean them with a small wire brush, then refit
them. Automotive stores sell a tool for cleaning
the battery post. . .

Wiper blades

1 Check the condition of the wiper blades;
if they are cracked or show any signs of
deterioration, or if the glass swept area
2 Totheremove a windscreen wiper blade, pull
arm fully away from the screen until it
locks. Swivel the blade through 90°, then
3 Where applicable, don't forget to check
the tailgate wiper blade as well. To remove
the blade, lift it off the glass and unclip it
is smeared, renew them. For maximum clarity slide the blade away from the windscreen and from the end of the arm.
of vision, wiper blades should be renewed off the arm.
annually, as a matter of course.
o.i4 Weekly checks
Tyre condition and pressur
It is very important that tyres are in good the tyre has b n punctured, refit the nail so New tyres should be balanced when they are
condition, and at the correct pressure - having that its point penetration is marked. Then fitted, but it may become necessary to re-
a tyre failure at any speed is highly dangerous. immediately cl nge the wheel, and have the balance them as they wear, or if the balance
Tyre wear is influenced by driving style - harsh tyre repaired b; a tyre dealer. weights fitted to the wheel rim should fall off.
braking and acceleration, or fast cornering, Regularly chei k the tyres for damage in the Unbalanced tyres will wear more quickly, as
will all produce more rapid tyre wear. As a form of cuts 'or bulges, especially in the will the steering and suspension components.
general rule, the front tyres wear out faster sidewalls. Pe odically remove the wheels, Wheel imbalance is normally signified by
than the rears. Interchanging the tyres from and clean any irt or mud from the inside and vibration, particularly at a certain speed
front to rear ("rotating" the tyres) may result in outside surfacl s. Examine the wheel rims for (typically around 50 mph). If this vibration is
more even wear. However, if this is signs of rusti , corrosion or other damage, felt only through the steering, then it is likely
completely effective, you may have the Light alloy w eels are easily damaged by that just the front wheels need balancing. If,
expense of replacing all four tyres at once! "kerbing" wh 'st parking; steel wheels may however, the vibration is felt through the
Remove any nails or stones embedded in the also become ented or buckled. A new wheel whole car, the rear wheels could be out of
tread before they penetrate the tyre to cause is very often t! only way to overcome severe balance. Wheel balancing should be carried
deflation. If removal of a nail does reveal that damage. out by a tyre dealer or garage.

-1 Tread Depth - visual check n Tread Depth - manual check O Tyre Pressure Check
The original tyres have tread wear safety Alternat Lely, tread wear can be Check the tyre pressures regularly with
bands (B), which will appear when the tread monitored w rh a simple, inexpensive device the tyres cold. Do not adjust the tyre
depth reaches approximately 1.6 mm. The known as a tirpad depth indicator gauge. pressures immediately after the vehicle has
band positions are indicated by a triangular been used, or an inaccurate setting will result.
mark on the tyre sidewall (A).

Tyre tread wear patterns

•V

Shoulder Wear Centre V ear Uneven Wear
Underinflation (wear on both sides) Overinflatio i Front tyres may wear unevenly as a result of
Under-inflation will cause overheating of the Over-inflati n will cause rapid wear of the wheel misalignment. Most tyre dealers and
tyre, because the tyre will flex too much, and centre part of the tyre tread, coupled with garages can check and adjust the wheel
the tread will not sit correctly on the road reduced gri harsher ride, and the danger of alignment (or "tracking") for a modest charge.
surface. This will cause a loss of grip and shock dame ;e occurring in the tyre casing. Incorrect camber or castor
excessive wear, not to mention the danger of Check and c ijust pressures Repair or renew suspension parts
sudden tyre failure due to heat build-up. Malfunctioning suspension
Check and adjust pressures If you som Imes have to inflate your car's Repair or renew suspension parts
Incorrect wheel camber (wear on one side) tyres to th higher pressures specified for Unbalanced wheel
Repair or renew suspension parts maximum k d or sustained high speed, don't Balance tyres
Hard cornering forget to duce the pressures to normal Incorrect toe setting
Reduce speed! afterwards. Adjust front wheel alignment
Note: The feathered edge of the tread which
typifies toe wear is best checked by feel.
Weekly checks o.15
Electrical systems •
If you need to check your
I brake lights and indicators
• Check all external lights and the horn. Refer • Visually check all accessible wiring |tllRIT| unaided, back up to a wall or
to the appropriate Sections of Chapter 12 for connectors, harnesses and retaining clips for garage door and operate the
details if any of the circuits are found to be security, and for signs of chafing or damage. lights. The reflected light should show if
inoperative. they are working properly.

lf a single indicator light, brake light or If more than one indicator light or headlight To renew a blown fuse, pull it from its
Ihas
headlight has failed, it is likely that a bulb
blown and will need to be renewed.
2 has failed, it is likely that either a fuse has
blown or that there is a fault in the circuit
3 location in the fusebox, using the plastic
pliers provided. Fit a new fuse of the
Refer to Chapter 12 for details. If both brake (see Electrical fault finding in Chapter 12). The same rating, available from car accessory
lights have failed, it is possible that the brake main fuses are in the fusebox beneath a cover shops. It is important that you find the reason
light switch operated by the brake pedal has on the right-hand end of the facia panel. Use that the fuse blew (see Electrical fault finding
failed. Refer to Chapter 9 for details. a small screwdriver to prise off the cover. The in Chapter 12).
circuits protected by the fuses are shown on
the inside of the cover. Additional heavy duty
fuses and fusible links are in the fusebox
located on top of the battery.
o.i6 Lubricants, fluids and fyre pressures

Lubricants and fluids
Engine (petrol) •••• Multigrade engine oil, viscosity SAE 5W/30 to 10W/40,
meeting specification VW 501 01, 502 00, 504 00 or better
ii
Engine (diesel)
Without particulate filter Multigrade engine oil, viscosity SAE 5W/30 to 10W/40,
meeting specification VW 505 01, 506 01, 507 00 or better

With particulate filter (engine codes BMS and BMT) Multigrade engine oil, viscosity SAE 5W/30 to 10W/40,
meeting specification VW 507 00 or better
I
Cooling system Seat G12 coolant (antifreeze and corrosion protection)

Manual transmission
5-speed transmission Jl API GL4 gear oil, viscosity SAE 75W
6-speed transmission | Seat synthetic gear oil, viscosity SAE 70W/75
Automatic transmission
Main transmission II Seat ATF
Final drive J Seat G50 synthetic gear oil, viscosity SAE 75W/90
Braking and clutch systems Hydraulic fluid to us FMVSS 116 or DOT 4
Power steering reservoir Seat hydraulic oil G 002 ooo

Tyre pressures
Note: The recommended tyre pressures for each Ibiza are given on a sticker attached to the inside of the fuel filler flap. The pressures given are for
the original-equipment tyres - the recommended pressures may vary if any other make or type of tyre is fitted; check with the tyre manufacturer or
supplier for latest recommendations. The following pressures i\re typical.
Front Rear
Normal load 2.0 bar (29 psi) 2.2 bar (32 psi)
Full load . 2.2 bar (32 psi) 2.8 bar (41 psi)
Note: Where a space-saver spare tyre is fitted, its pressure m st be 4.2 bar (61 psi).
Chapter 1 Part A:
Routine maintenance and servicing
petrol models
Contents Section number Section number
Air filter element renewal 24 Hinge and lock lubrication 15
Airbag unit check 16 Hose and fluid leak check 6
Antifreeze check 8 Introduction 1
Automatic transmission fluid level check 27 Manual transmission oil level check 23
Auxiliary drivebelt check and renewal 7 Pollen filter element renewal 22
Battery check 14 Power steering hydraulic fluid level check 26
Brake (and clutch) fluid renewal 29 Regular maintenance 2
Brake hydraulic circuit check 9 Resetting the service interval display 21
Brake pad/lining check 4 Road test and exhaust emissions check 20
Coolant renewal 30 Spark plug renewal 25
Driveshaft check 12 Steering and suspension check 13
Engine management self-diagnosis memory fault check 18 Sunroof check and lubrication 19
Engine oil and filter renewal 3 Timing belt and tensioner renewal (1.4 litre engines) 28
Exhaust system check 5 Underbody protection check 11
Headlight beam adjustment 10 Windscreen/tailgate/headlight washer system check 17

Degrees of difficulty
Easy, suitable for ^b Fairly easy, suitable §^ Fairly difficult, Difficult, suitable ^ Very difficult, ^
novice with little for beginner with ^ suitable for competent Sj£ for experienced DIY ^ suitable for expert ^
experience ^ some experience 3^ DIY mechanic ^ mechanic 3^ DIY or professional 3^
1A' •2 Servicing specifications - petrol models
Lubricants and fluids Refer to end of Weekly checks on page 0*16

Engine codes
1.2 litre AZQ, BME, BXV
1.4 litre . . AUB, BBY, BBZ, BKY and BXW

Capacities
Engine oil - including filter
1.2 litre 2.9 litres
1.4 litre . . 3.2 litres
Cooling system
1.2 litre 5.1 litres
1.4 litre . . 5.5 litres
Transmission
Manual transmission 1.9 litres
Automatic transmission . . 5.7 litres
Fuel tank (approximate) 45 litres

Cooling system
Antifreeze mixture:
40% antifreeze Protection down to -25°C
50% antifreeze Protection down to -35°C
Note: Refer to antifreeze manufacturer for latest recommendations.

Ignition system
Spark plugs: Type Electrode gap
1.2 litre . . Bosch F7 HER2 0.9 mm
NGKZFR5P-G 0.8 mm
1.4 litre:
Engine codes AUB, BBY, BBZ and BKY NGKBKUR6ET-10 1.0 mm
Engine code BXW NGKZFR6T-11G N/A

Brakes
Brake pad minimum thickness:
Including backing plate:
Front 7.0 mm
Rear 7.6 mm
Friction lining only:
Front and rear 2.0 mm
Rear brake shoe friction material minimum thickness 1.5 mm

Torque wrench settings Nm Ibfft
Alternator mounting bolt 20 15
Automatic transmission level plug 15 ;•
Manual gearbox filler/level plug 25 18
Oil filter housing cap (1.2 litre engines) 25 18
Roadwheel bolts 120 89
Spark plugs 30 22
Sump drain plug 30 22
Maintenance schedule - petrol models
The maintenance intervals in this manual are When the vehicle is new, it should be All Seat models are equipped with a service
provided with the assumption that you, not the serviced by a dealer service department (or interval display indicator in the instrument
dealer, will be carrying out the work. These are other workshop recognised by the vehicle panel. Every time the engine is started the
the minimum intervals recommended by us for manufacturer as providing the same standard panel will illuminate for approximately 20
cars driven daily. If you wish to keep your car of service) in order to preserve the warranty. seconds with service information. Once the
in peak condition at all times, you may wish The vehicle manufacturer may reject warranty service interval has been reached, the display
to perform some of these procedures more claims if you are unable to prove that servicing will flash 'INSP' for a service.
often. We encourage frequent maintenance, has been carried out as and when specified, Note that the following schedule is our
since it enhances the efficiency, performance using only original equipment parts or parts recommendation for service intervals and
and resale value of your car. certified to be of equivalent quality. service tasks.

Every 250 miles or weekly Every 20 000 miles or 2 years,
D Refer to Weekly checks whichever comes first
n Renew the pollen filter element (Section 22)
Every 5000 miles or 6 months, D Check the manual transmission oil level
(Section 23)
whichever comes first
D Renew the engine oil and filter (Section 3)
Note: Seat recommend that the engine oil and filter are changed
Every 40 000 miles or 4 years,
every 10 000 miles or 12 months. However, oil and filter changes are whichever comes first
good for the engine and we recommend that the oil and filter are
renewed more frequently, especially if the vehicle is used on a lot of D Renew the air filter element (Section 24)
short journeys. [ i Renew the spark plugs (Section 25)
D Check the power steering hydraulic fluid level
(Section 26)
Every 10 000 miles or 12 months, D Check the automatic transmission fluid level
(Section 27)
whichever comes first n Renew the timing belt and tensioner roller -
Note: In addition to the item given above. 1.4 litre engines only (Section 28)*
D Brake pad/lining check (Section 4) * Seat specify timing belt inspection after the first 60 000 miles and
n Check the condition of the exhaust system and its then every 20 000 miles until the renewal interval of 120 000 miles.
mountings (Section 5) However, if the car is used mainly for short journeys, we recommend
D Check all underbonnet components and hoses for that this shorter renewal interval is adhered to. The belt renewal
fluid and oil leaks (Section 6) interval is very much up to the individual owner but, bearing in mind
that severe engine damage will result if the belt breaks in use, we
D Check the condition of the auxiliary drivebelt recommend the shorter interval.
(Section 7)
D Check the coolant antifreeze concentration
(Section 8) Every 2 years
D Check the brake hydraulic circuit for leaks and
D Renew the brake (and clutch) fluid (Section 29)
damage (Section 9) D Renew the coolant (Section 30)*
D Check the headlight beam adjustment (Section 10) * This work is not included in the Seat schedule, and should not
D Check the underbody protection for damage be required if the recommended G12 coolant antifreeze/inhibitor is
(Section 11) used.
Check the condition of the driveshafts (Section 12)
Check the steering and suspension components
for condition and security (Section 13)
Check the battery condition, security and
electrolyte level (Section 14)
Lubricate all hinges and locks (Section 15)
Check the condition of the airbag unit(s) (Section 16)
Check the operation of the windscreen/tailgate/
headlight washer system(s) (as applicable)
(Section 17)
D Check the engine management self-diagnosis
memory for faults (Section 18)
LH Check the operation of the sunroof and lubricate
the guide rails (Section 19)
D Carry out a road test and check exhaust emissions
(Section 20)
L] Reset the service indicator (Section 21)
1A' >4 Component location - petrol models
Underbonnet view of a 1.2 litre mddel (1.4 litre model similar)
Engine oil filler cap
Engine oil dipstick
Coolant expansion tank
Windscreen/headlight
washer fluid reservoir
Power steering fluid
reservoir
Ignition coils and spark
plugs
Fuel injectors
Front suspension strut
upper mountings
Brake/clutch master
cylinder fluid reservoir
Brake ABS unit
11 Engine management ECM
12 Battery
13 Oxygen (lambda) sensor
Oil filter housing
Throttle body

Front underbody view of a 1.2 litrfe model (others similar)
Sump drain plug
Manual transmission oil
filler/level plug
Rear engine mounting/link
Driveshaft
Anti-roll bar link
Front brake caliper
Steering track rod
Front suspension lower
arm
Front suspension
subframe
Auxiliary drivebelt
Air conditioning
compressor

. /§••r*
Cooling system drain plug
Oxygen sensor
Component location - petrol models
Rear underbody view of a 1 .2 litre model (others similar)
1 Rear axle assembly
2 Fuel tank
3 Rear brake hoses
4 Rear suspension coil
springs
5 Handbrake cables
6 Rear suspension shock
absorbers
7 Exhaust rear silencer and
tailpipe
8 Fuel tank filler pipe
9 Fuel filter

Maintenance procedures
begins. Read through all the Sections relevant maintenance as described in this Chapter will
1 Introduction to the work to be carried out, then make a list not greatly improve the performance of the
and gather all the parts and tools required. If engine, and may prove a waste of time and
a problem is encountered, seek advice from a money, unless extensive overhaul work is
parts specialist, or a dealer service department. carried out first.
This Chapter is designed to help the home 4 The following series of operations are those
mechanic maintain his/her car for safety, 2 Regular maintenance most often required to improve the performance
economy, long life and peak performance. of a generally poor-running engine:
The Chapter contains a master maintenance Primary operations
schedule, followed by Sections dealing
specifically with each task in the schedule. a) Clean, inspect and test the battery (See
Visual checks, adjustments, component 1 If, from the time the car is new, the routine 'Weekly checks').
renewal and other helpful items are included. maintenance schedule is followed closely, and b) Check all the engine-related fluids (See
Refer to the accompanying illustrations of frequent checks are made of fluid levels and 'Weekly checks').
the engine compartment and the underside high-wear items, as suggested throughout this c) Check the condition and tension of the
of the car for the locations of the various manual, the engine will be kept in relatively auxiliary drivebelt (Section 7).
components. good running condition, and the need for d) Renew the spark plugs (Section 25).
Servicing your car will provide a planned additional work will be minimised. e) Check the condition of the air filter, and
maintenance programme, which should result 2 It is possible that there will be times when renew if necessary (Section 24).
in a long and reliable service life. This is a the engine is running poorly due to the lack of f) Check the condition of all hoses, and
comprehensive plan, so maintaining some regular maintenance. This is even more likely if check for fluid leaks (Section 6).
items but not others will not produce the same a used car, which has not received regular and 5 If the above operations do not prove fully
results. frequent maintenance checks, is purchased. effective, carry out the following secondary
As you service your car, you will discover In such cases, additional work may need to be operations:
that many of the procedures can - and carried out, outside of the regular maintenance
should - be grouped together, because of intervals. Secondary operations
the particular procedure being performed, or 3 If engine wear is suspected, a compression All items listed under Primary operations, plus
because of the proximity of two otherwise test (refer to Chapter 2A or 2B) will provide the following:
unrelated components to one another. For valuable information regarding the overall a) Check the charging system (see Chap-
example, if the car is raised for any reason, the performance of the main internal components. ter 5A).
exhaust can be inspected at the same time as Such a test can be used as a basis to decide b) Check the ignition system (see Chapter 5B).
the suspension and steering components. on the extent of the work to be carried out. c) Check the fuel system (see Chapter 4A).
The first step in this maintenance programme If, for example, a compression test indicates d) Renew the ignition HT leads (where
is to prepare yourself before the actual work serious internal engine wear, conventional applicable).
1A' •6 Maintenance procedures - petrol models

3.2a Undo the bolts (arrowed) and remove 3.2b Pull the sngine cover/air filter housing 3.2c . . . and disconnect the breather hose
the engine undershield upwards from the rubber mountings

Every 5000 miles or 6 months
newspapers Ihandy, to mop-up any spills. sealing washer. Clean the area around the
3 Engine oil and filter renewal Ideally, the engine oil should be warm, as it drain plug opening, and refit the plug. Tighten
will drain better, and more built-up sludge will the plug to the specified torque.
be removed with it. Take care, however, not to 6 If the filter is also to be renewed, move the
touch the exhaust or any other hot parts of the container into position under the oil filter. On
1 Frequent oil and filter changes are the most engine when i/orking under the car. To avoid 1.2 litre engines, the filter is located beneath a
important maintenance procedures which can any possibili |y of scalding, and to protect cap on the front right-hand end of the engine.
be undertaken by the DIY owner. As engine oil yourself from possible skin irritants and other On 1.4 litre engines, the canister-type filter is
ages, it becomes diluted and contaminated, harmful contaminants in used engine oils, located on the front of the engine.
which leads to premature engine wear. it is advisable to wear gloves when carrying 7 On 1.2 litre engines, unscrew the cap
2 Before starting this procedure, gather all out this work Access to the underside of the several turns from the oil filter housing until its
the necessary tools and materials. Also make car will be graatly improved if it can be raised sealing face is level with the side peg. Leave
sure that you have plenty of clean rags and on a lift, driven onto ramps, or jacked up and the cap in this position for at least one minute,
supported on axle stands (see Jacking and to allow the oil to drain from the filter and
vehicle suppc t). Whichever method is chosen, housing. Cover the alternator with cloth rags,
make sure th it the car remains level, or if it is to prevent entry of oil. Completely unscrew
at an angle, t iat the drain plug is at the lowest the cap and withdraw it together with the filter.
point. Where necessary, undo the retaining If the filter is stuck to the cap, tap the cap
bolts and re ove the engine undershield(s), bottom extension lightly on a wooden base to
then also re ove the engine top cover (see release the filter. Using a screwdriver, remove
illustrations Disconnect the breather hose the O-ring seal from the cap and discard it -
from the cyli er head cover as the top cover a new one must be used when refitting (see
is removed. illustrations).
3 Using an Allen key or bit, slacken the drain 8 On 1.4 litre engines, using an oil filter
plug about half a turn (see illustration). removal tool if necessary, slacken the filter
Position the (Braining container under the drain initially, then unscrew it by hand the rest of
3.3 Undo the engine oil drain plug plug, then remove the plug completely (see the way. Empty the oil in the filter into the
(arrowed) with an Allen key or bit Haynes Hin L Recover the sealing ring from container. Check the old filter to make sure
the drain plu that the rubber sealing ring has not stuck to
4 Allow son e time for the old oil to drain, the engine. If it has, carefully remove it.
noting that it may be necessary to reposition 9 Use a clean rag to remove all oil, dirt and
the container as the oil flow slows to a trickle. sludge from the filter housing and cap, or filter
5 After all tl e oil has drained, wipe off the sealing area (as applicable).
drain plug with a clean rag, and fit a new 10 On 1.2 litre engines, fit a new O-ring seal

Keep the drain plug pressed into the
sump while unscrewing it by hand
the last couple of turns. As the plug
releases, move it away sharply so the
stream of oil issuing from the sump runs
into the container, not up your sleeve. 3.7a Unsc sw the cap and remove the oil 3.7b Tap the bottom extension of the cap
filter to release the filter
Every 5000 miles - petrol models IA-?
to the cap, then insert the new filter in the 13 Remove the dipstick, then unscrew the there may be a few seconds delay before
housing and screw on the cap. Tighten the oil filler cap from the cylinder head cover. the oil pressure warning light goes out when
cap to the specified torque. Wipe away any Fill the engine, using the correct grade and the engine is started, as the oil circulates
excess oil. type of oil (see Lubricants and fluids). An through the engine oil galleries and the new
11 On 1.4 litre engines, apply a light coating of oil can spout or funnel may help to reduce oil filter (where fitted) before the pressure
clean engine oil to the sealing ring on the new spillage. Pour in half the specified quantity of builds-up.
filter, then screw it into position on the engine. oil first, then wait a few minutes for the oil to 15 Switch off the engine, and wait a few
Tighten the filter firmly by hand only - do not run to the sump. Continue adding oil a small minutes for the oil to settle in the sump once
use any tools. Wipe away any excess oil. quantity at a time until the level is up to the more. With the new oil circulated and the
12 Remove the old oil and all tools from maximum mark on the dipstick. Refit the filler filter completely full, recheck the level on the
under the car. Refit the engine undershield(s), cap. dipstick, and add more oil as necessary.
tighten the retaining bolts securely, then lower 14 Start the engine and run it for a few 16 Dispose of the used engine oil safely, with
the car to the ground. Also refit the engine top minutes; check for leaks around the oil filter reference to General repair procedures in the
cover where applicable. seal and the sump drain plug. Note that Reference section of this manual.

Every 10 000 miles or 12 months
light will probably be required. If the friction 3 Rattles and other noises can often be
4 Brake pad/lining check material on any shoe is worn down to the traced to the exhaust system, especially the
specified minimum thickness or less, all four brackets and mountings. Try to move the
shoes must be renewed as a set. pipes and silencers. If the components are
9 For a comprehensive check, the brake able to come into contact with the body or
drum should be removed and cleaned. This suspension parts, secure the system with new
Front and rear disc brakes will allow the wheel cylinders to be checked, mountings. Otherwise separate the joints (if
1 The outer brake pads can be checked and the condition of the brake drum itself to possible) and twist the pipes as necessary to
without removing the wheels, by observing the be fully examined (see Chapter 9). provide additional clearance.
brake pads through the holes in the wheels 10 On completion of the check, refit the
(see illustration). If necessary, remove the roadwheels where removed, and lower the car 6 Hose and fluid leak check
wheel trim. The thickness of the pad lining to the ground.
must not be less than the dimension given in
the Specifications. 5 Exhaust system check
2 If the outer pads are worn near their limits, it
is worthwhile checking the inner pads as well. 1 Visually inspect the engine joint faces,
Jack up car and support it on axle stands (see gaskets and seals for any signs of water or
Jacking and vehicle support). Remove the oil leaks. Pay particular attention to the areas
roadwheels. 1 With the engine cold (at least an hour after around the camshaft cover, cylinder head,
3 Use a steel rule to check the thickness the car has been driven), check the complete oil filter and sump joint faces. Bear in mind
of the brake pads, and compare with the exhaust system from the engine to the end of that, over a period of time, some very slight
minimum thickness given in the Specifications the tailpipe. The exhaust system is most easily seepage from these areas is to be expected
(see illustration). checked with the car raised on a hoist, or - what you are really looking for is any
4 For a comprehensive check, the brake supported on axle stands, so that the exhaust
indication of a serious leak. Should a leak be
pads should be removed and cleaned. The components are readily visible and accessible
found, renew the offending gasket or oil seal
operation of the caliper can then also be (see Jacking and vehicle support).
by referring to the appropriate Chapters in this
checked, and the condition of the brake disc 2 Check the exhaust pipes and connections
manual.
itself can be fully examined on both sides. for evidence of leaks, severe corrosion and
Refer to Chapter 9. damage. Make sure that all brackets and
5 If any pad's friction material is worn to the mountings are in good condition, and that all
specified minimum thickness or less, all four relevant nuts and bolts are tight. Leakage at
pads at the front or rear, as applicable, must any of the joints or in other parts of the system
be renewed as a set. Never renew the pads on will usually show up as a black sooty stain in
just one wheel, as uneven braking will result. the vicinity of the leak.
6 On completion of the check, refit the
roadwheels and lower the car to the ground.
Rear drum brakes
7 Chock the front wheels, then jack up the
rear of the car and support it on axle stands
(see Jacking and vehicle support).
8 For a quick check, the thickness of friction
material remaining on one of the brake shoes
can be observed through the hole in the brake
backplate which is exposed by prising out the
rubber sealing grommet. If a rod of the same H31925
diameter as the specked minimum friction
material thickness is placed against the shoe
friction material, the amount of wear can be 4.1 The outer brake pads can be observed 4.3 The thickness (a) of the brake pads
assessed. An electric torch or inspection through the holes in the wheels must not be less than the specified amount
1A-8 Every 10 000 miles - petrol models
fuel lines leading away from the petrol tank. 5 On 1.4 litre engines with air conditioning,
Check for lo connections, deteriorated use a spanner to turn the tensioner central
hoses, crimp lines, and other damage, bolt clockwise to release the tension on the
Pay particular attention to the vent pipes and drivebelt (see illustration).
hoses, which often loop up around the filler 6 On 1.4 litre engines without air conditioning,
neck and cai become blocked or crimped, a tensioner spring is fitted between the
Follow the lin to the front of the car, carefully alternator and bracket to tension the drivebelt.
inspecting th all the way. Renew damaged Loosen the upper pivot bolt and lower tension
sections as necessary. bolt, then swivel the alternator towards the
8 From with n the engine compartment, engine to release the tension on the drivebelt.
check the sec jrity of all fuel hose attachments 7 Note how the drivebelt is routed, then
and pipe uni< ns, and inspect the fuel hoses remove it from the crankshaft pulley, alternator
and vacuum hoses for kinks, chafing and pulley and air conditioning compressor pulley
deterioration. (where applicable).
A leak in the cooling system will usually 9 Where ap icable, check the condition of 8 On all except 1.4 litre engines without
show up as white- or antifreeze- the power st sring fluid hoses and pipes. air conditioning, locate the new drivebelt
coloured deposits on the area adjoining
the leak. on the pulleys, and release the tensioner.
7 Auxiiidl-y drivebelt Check that the belt is located correctly in the
check and renewal multi-grooves in the pulleys.
2 Also check the security and condition of all
9 On 1.4 litre engines without air conditioning,
the engine-related pipes and hoses. Ensure
push the alternator towards the engine to
that all cable-ties or securing clips are in place
locate the drivebelt on the pulley, then release
and in good condition. Clips which are broken Check it so that the spring tensions the drivebelt.
or missing can lead to chafing of the hoses,
1 Apply the Handbrake, then jack up the front Before tightening the mounting bolts, Seat
pipes or wiring, which could cause more
of the car and support it on axle stands (see state that the engine must be cranked with the
serious problems in the future.
Jacking and \ support). starter approximately 10 turns (only a second
3 Carefully check the radiator hoses and or two's cranking). To do this without starting
heater hoses along their entire length. 2 Using a sbcket on the crankshaft pulley
bolt, turn the engine slowly clockwise so the engine, disable the ignition system by
Renew any hose which is cracked, swollen disconnecting the wiring plug from the DIS
or deteriorated. Cracks will show up better if that the full length of the auxiliary drivebelt
can be exanlined. Look for cracks, splitting ignition module (engine code AUB) or ignition
the hose is squeezed. Pay close attention to coils (engine codes BBY, BKY, BBZ and BXW).
and fraying <jn the surface of the belt; check
the hose clips that secure the hoses to the The drivebelt is now correctly tensioned.
also for signs of glazing (shiny patches) and
cooling system components. Hose clips can Tighten the lower mounting bolt followed
separation c f the belt plies. Use a mirror to
pinch and puncture hoses, resulting in cooling by the upper mounting bolt to the specified
check the underside of the drivebelt (see
system leaks. torque.
illustration). If damage or wear is visible, or if
4 Inspect all the cooling system components 10 Refit the wheel arch liner and roadwheel,
there are trai es of oil or grease on it, the belt
(hoses, joint faces, etc) for leaks (see Haynes and lower the car to the ground.
should be re iewed as follows:
Hint). Where any problems of this nature
are found on system components, renew Renewal 8 Antifreeze check
the component or gasket with reference to
Chapter 3.
3 For impro |ed access, apply the handbrake,
then jack u the front of the car and support I
5 Where applicable, inspect the automatic
transmission fluid cooler hoses for leaks or
it on axle lands (see Jacking and vehicle
support). emove the right-hand front
I
deterioration. roadwheel; id wheel arch liner. 1 The cooling system should be filled with the
6 With the car raised, inspect the petrol tank 4 On 1.2 I engines, lever off the cover recommended G12 antifreeze and corrosion
and filler neck for punctures, cracks and other (where fitte from the tensioner pulley, then protection fluid - do not mix this antifreeze
damage. The connection between the filler use a Torx |ey or spanner (as applicable) to with any other type. Over a period of time, the
neck and tank is especially critical. Sometimes turn the p ley anti-clockwise against the concentration of fluid may be reduced due to
a rubber filler neck or connecting hose will leak tension spri (see illustration). If necessary, topping-up with water (this can be avoided by
due to loose retaining clamps or deteriorated the tension may be retained with a drill bit topping-up with the correct antifreeze mixture
rubber. inserted thr ugh the hole in the pulley arm - see Specifications) or fluid loss. If loss of
7 Carefully check all rubber hoses and metal and body. coolant has been evident, it is important to

7.4 Use si spanner to turn the tensioner
7.2 Check the underside of the auxiliary and release the auxiliary drivebelt - 7.5 Auxiliary drivebelt removal -
drivebelt with a mirror 1.2 litre engines 1.4 litre engine with air conditioning
Every 10 000 miles - petrol models 1A-9
make the necessary repair before adding fresh which may crack or flake off with age, leading
fluid. to corrosion (note, however, that the Ibiza
2 With the engine cold, carefully remove the does without such a coating for much of the
cap from the expansion tank. If the engine is underbody, and has instead a pair of plastic
not completely cold, place a cloth rag over the underbody panels at the front).
cap before removing it, and remove it slowly Also check that the wheel arch liners are
to allow any pressure to escape. securely attached with any clips provided - if
3 Antifreeze checkers (hydrometers) are they come loose, dirt may get in behind the
available from car accessory shops. Draw liners and defeat their purpose. If there is any
some coolant from the expansion tank and damage to the underseal, or any corrosion, it
observe how many plastic balls are floating should be repaired before the damage gets
in the checker. Usually, 2 or 3 balls must too serious.
be floating for the correct concentration of
antifreeze, but follow the tool manufacturer's 12 Driveshaft check 12.1 Check the condition of the driveshaft
instructions. gaiters (arrowed)
4 If the concentration is incorrect, it will be an assistant depresses the footbrake. If the
necessary to either withdraw some coolant movement is now eliminated or significantly
and add antifreeze, or alternatively drain reduced, it is likely that the hub bearings are
the old coolant and add fresh coolant of the 1 With the car raised and secureiy supported at fault. If the free play is still evident with the
correct concentration (see Section 30). on stands, slowly rotate the roadwheel. footbrake depressed, then there is wear in the
Inspect the condition of the outer constant suspension joints or mountings.
9 Brake hydraulic circuit check §k velocity (CV) joint rubber gaiters, squeezing 5 Now grasp the wheel at the 9 o'clock and
the gaiters to open out the folds. Check for 3 o'clock positions, and try to rock it as before.
signs of cracking, splits or deterioration of the Any movement felt now may again be caused
rubber, which may allow the grease to escape, by wear in the hub bearings or the steering
and lead to water and grit entry into the joint. track rod balljoints. If the inner or outer balljoint
1 Check the entire brake hydraulic circuit Also check the security and condition of the
for leaks and damage. Start by checking the is worn, the visual movement will be obvious.
retaining clips. Repeat these checks on the 6 Using a large screwdriver or flat bar, check
master cylinder in the engine compartment. At inner joints (see illustration). If any damage
the same time, check the vacuum servo unit for wear in the suspension mounting bushes
or deterioration is found, the gaiters should be by levering between the relevant suspension
and ABS units for signs of fluid leakage. renewed (see Chapter 8).
2 Raise the front and rear of the car and component and its attachment point. Some
2 At the same time, check the general condition movement is to be expected as the mountings
support it on axle stands (see Jacking and of the CV joints themselves by first holding the
vehicle support). Check the rigid hydraulic are made of rubber, but excessive wear
driveshaft and attempting to rotate the wheel. should be obvious. Also check the condition
brake lines for corrosion and damage. Repeat this check by holding the inner joint
3 At the front of the car, check that the of any visible rubber bushes, looking for splits,
and attempting to rotate the driveshaft. Any cracks or contamination of the rubber.
flexible hydraulic hoses to the calipers are not appreciable movement indicates wear in the
twisted or chafing on any of the surrounding 7 With the car standing on its wheels, have
joints, wear in the driveshaft splines, or a loose an assistant turn the steering wheel back-
suspension components. Turn the steering on driveshaft retaining nut.
full lock to make this check. Also check that and-forth about an eighth of a turn each
the hoses are not brittle or cracked. way. There should be very little, if any, lost
4 Lower the car to the ground after making 13 Steering and movement between the steering wheel and
the checks. suspension check roadwheels. If this is not the case, closely
observe the joints and mountings previously
10 Headlight beam adjustment described, but in addition check the steering
column universal joints for wear, and the rack-
1 Raise the front and rear of the car, and
and-pinion steering gear itself.
securely support it on axle stands (see Jacking
8 Check for any signs of fluid leakage
and vehicle support).
around the front suspension struts and rear
2 Visually inspect the track rod end balljoint
1 Accurate adjustment of the headlight beam shock absorber. Should any fluid be noticed,
dust cover, the lower front suspension balljoint
is only possible using optical beam-setting the suspension strut or shock absorber is
dust cover, and the steering rack-and-pinion
equipment, and this work should therefore be defective internally, and should be renewed.
gaiters for splits, chafing or deterioration. Any
carried out by a Seat dealer or service station Note: Suspension struts/shock absorbers
wear of these components will cause loss of
with the necessary facilities.
lubricant, together with dirt and water entry,
2 Basic adjustments can be carried out in an
resulting in rapid deterioration of the balljoints
emergency, and further details are given in
or steering gear.
Chapter 12.
3 Check the power steering fluid hoses for
chafing or deterioration, and the pipe and hose
1 1 Underbody protection check k unions for fluid leaks. Also check for signs of
fluid leakage under pressure from the steering
gear rubber gaiters, which would indicate failed
fluid seals within the steering gear.
Raise and support the car on axle stands 4 Grasp the roadwheel at the 12 o'clock and
(see Jacking and vehicle support). Using 6 o'clock positions, and try to rock it (see
an electric torch or lead light, inspect the illustration). Very slight free play may be felt,
entire underside of the car, paying particular but if the movement is appreciable, further
attention to the wheel arches. Look for any investigation is necessary to determine the 13.4 Check for wear in the hub bearings
damage to the flexible underbody coating, source. Continue rocking the wheel while by grasping the wheel and trying to rock it
iA-io Every 10 000 miles - petrol models
should always be renewed in pairs on the eye' is locate' on the top of the battery, near
same axle to ensure correct handling. the negative t rminal. If the eye is green, the 19 Sunroof check
9 The efficiency of the suspension strut/shock battery is in g d condition and charged up. If and lubrication
absorber may be checked by bouncing the the eye is bla , the battery is flat and should
car at each corner. Generally speaking, the be charged. If |the eye is colourless or yellow,
body will return to its normal position and stop the electrolyte s low and in a critical condition, 1 Check the operation of the sunroof, and
after being depressed. If it rises and returns and should b topped-up with distilled water. leave it in the fully-open position.
on a rebound, the suspension strut/shock If charging th battery does not return the eye 2 Wipe clean the guide rails on each side of the
absorber is probably suspect. Examine also to green, the ittery should be scrapped. sunroof opening, then apply lubricant to them.
the suspension strut/shock absorber upper 7 On comple on of the check, clip the cover Seat recommend lubricant spray G 052 778.
and lower mountings for any signs of wear. securely bac onto the fuse holder and close Close the sunroof on completion.
up the cover.
14 Battery check 20 Road test and
15 Hinge |nd lock lubrication exhaust emissions check

1 The battery is located in the front, left-hand
corner of the engine compartment. Release 1 Lubricate t le hinges of the bonnet, doors Instruments and
the clip at the back, then swing the battery and tailgate \, nth
lub a light general-purpose oil. electrical equipment
cover upwards and forwards to gain access to cate all latches, locks and lock 1 Check the operation of all instruments
the battery terminals (see illustration). strikers. At th j same time, check the security and electrical equipment, including the air
2 Where necessary, open the fuse holder and operatior of all the locks, adjusting them conditioning system, where applicable.
plastic cover (squeeze together the locking if necessary ( ee Chapter 11). 2 Make sure that all instruments read correctly,
lugs to release the cover) to gain access to the 2 Lightly li aricate the bonnet release and switch on all electrical equipment in turn,
battery positive (+) terminal and fuse holder mechanism a id cable with a suitable grease. to check that it functions properly.
connections.
3 Check that both battery terminals and all 16 Airbag unit check Steering and suspension
the fuse holder connections are securely
attached and are free from corrosion. Note:
I3suspension,
Check for any abnormalities in the steering,
handling or road 'feel'.
Before disconnecting the terminals from the I4 Drive the car, and check that there are
battery, refer to Chapter 5A. no unusual vibrations or noises which may
Inspect t e exterior condition of the indicate wear in the driveshafts, wheel
4 Check the battery casing for signs of airbag(s) for s of damage or deterioration,
damage or cracking and check the battery bearings, etc.
If an airbag hows signs of damage, it must 5 Check that the steering feels positive, with
retaining clamp bolt is securely tightened. If be renewed see Chapter 12). Note that it is
the battery casing is damaged in any way the no excessive 'sloppiness', or roughness,
not permissi >le to attach any stickers to the
battery must be renewed (see Chapter 5A). and check for any suspension noises when
surface of tl airbag, as this may affect the
5 If the car is not fitted with a sealed- cornering and driving over bumps.
deployment if the unit.
for-life maintenance-free battery, check the Drivetrain
electrolyte level is between the MAX and
17 Windscreen/tailgate/ 6 Check the performance of the engine, clutch
MIN level markings on the battery casing. If
topping-up is necessary, remove the battery
headl bht washer (where applicable), gearbox/transmission and
(see Chapter 5A) from the car then remove the system check driveshafts.
cell caps/cover (as applicable). Using distilled 7 Listen for any unusual noises from the
water, top the electrolyte level of each cell up 1 Check th each of the washer jet nozzles engine, clutch and gearbox/transmission.
to the MAX level mark then securely refit the are clear a |d that each nozzle provides a 8 Make sure the engine runs smoothly at idle,
strong jet of Dasher fluid. and there is no hesitation on accelerating.
cell caps/cover. Ensure the battery has not
2 The tailga] |e jet should be aimed to spray at 9 Check that, where applicable, the clutch
been overfilled then refit the battery to the car
the centre o the screen, using a pin. action is smooth and progressive, that the
(see Chapter 5A).
3 The wind icreen washer nozzles are fixed, drive is taken up smoothly, and that the pedal
6 Some models are fitted with a battery with
and cannot >e adjusted. travel is not excessive. Also listen for any
a 'magic eye' which shows the state of the
4 Especiall during the winter months, make noises when the clutch pedal is depressed.
battery and level of electrolyte. The 'magic
sure that t washer fluid concentration is 10 On manual gearbox models, check that
sufficient to ivoid freezing. all gears can be engaged smoothly without
Caution: O, no account use engine coolant noise, and that the gear lever action is smooth
antifreeze the screen washer system - and not abnormally vague or 'notchy'.
this may d, iage the paintwork. 11 On automatic transmission models, make
sure that all gearchanges occur smoothly,
without snatching, and without an increase in
18 Engir e management ^ engine speed between changes. Check that
self-c iagnosis memory JjS all the gear positions can be selected with
fault ;heck *v the car at rest. If any problems are found,
they should be referred to a Seat dealer or
This worl should be carried out by a Seat specialist.
dealer or d|jagnostic specialist using special 12 Listen for a metallic clicking sound from
equipment, The diagnostic socket is located the front of the car, as the car is driven slowly
14.1 Remove the battery cover behind a h nged cover beneath the driver's in a circle with the steering on full-lock.
side of the f jcia Carry out this check in both directions. If a
Every 10 000 miles - petrol models IA«
clicking noise is heard, this indicates wear in a pedal as vacuum builds-up. Allow the engine
driveshaft joint, in which case renew the joint to run for at least two minutes, and then switch 21 Resetting the service
if necessary. it off. If the brake pedal is depressed now, it interval display
should be possible to detect a hiss from the
Braking system servo as the pedal is depressed. After about
13 Make sure that the car does not pull to four or five applications, no further hissing
1 After all necessary maintenance work has
one side when braking, and that the wheels should be heard, and the pedal should feel
do not lock when braking hard. been completed, the service interval display
considerably harder.
14 Check that there is no vibration through must be reset. Seat technicians use a special
17 Under controlled emergency braking, the
the steering when braking. pulsing of the ABS unit must be felt at the dedicated instrument to do this, and a print-out
15 Check that the handbrake operates footbrake pedal. is then put in the vehicle service record. It is
correctly without excessive movement of the possible for the owner to reset the display as
lever, and that it holds the car stationary on a Exhaust emissions check described in the following paragraph.
slope. 18 Although not part of the manufacturer's 2 To reset the display manually, switch off
16 Test the operation of the brake servo unit maintenance schedule, this check will normally the ignition, then press and hold down the
as follows. With the engine off, depress the be carried out on a regular basis according to trip reset button beneath the speedometer.
footbrake four or five times to exhaust the the country the car is operated in. Currently in Switch on the ignition and observe the service
vacuum. Hold the brake pedal depressed, the UK, exhaust emissions testing is included interval, then hold the button down for 10
then start the engine. As the engine starts, as part of the annual MOT test after the car is seconds until ' ' appears, followed by the
there should be a noticeable 'give' in the brake 3 years old. trip readout.

Every 20 OOP miles or 2 years
3 Withdraw the filter downwards from the
22 Pollen filter element renewal heater assembly, and remove from inside the 23 Manual transmission
car (see illustration). oil level check
4 Separate the filter from the frame, noting
the fitted direction of the airflow arrows, which
1 The pollen filter is located on the heater should be towards the driver's side (see 1 Park the car on a level surface. For improved
assembly, and is removed into the passenger illustration). access to the filler/level plug, apply the
footwell. 5 Fit the new filter to the frame, with the handbrake, then jack up the front of the car
2 Reach under the glovebox, and slide the airflow arrows pointing as noted before, then and support it on axle stands (see Jacking and
two retaining catches on the pollen filter lower insert it into the heater assembly. Refit the vehicle support), but note that the rear of the
cover towards each other, to release and lower cover, and slide the catches apart to car should also be raised to ensure an accurate
remove the cover (see illustrations). secure it. level check. The oil level must be checked
before the car is driven, or at least 5 minutes
after the engine has been switched off. If the
oil is checked immediately after driving the car,
some of the oil will remain distributed around
the transmission components, resulting in an
inaccurate level reading.
2 As applicable, undo the retaining bolts and
remove the engine undershield(s). Wipe clean
the area around the transmission filler/level
plug which is situated on the rear, inner face
of the transmission, above the engine rear
mounting/torque link (see illustration).
3 To unscrew the filler/level plug, a special
22.2a Slide the catches (arrowed) towards 22.2b . . . and remove the pollen filter
each other . . . lower cover

22.3 Withdraw the pollen filter into the 22.4 Separate the filter from the frame, 23.2 Manual transmission oil filler/level
passenger footwell noting the airflow arrows plug location (arrowed)
Every 20 000 miles Detrol models
multi-splined key will be needed (Seat tool will trickle ou hen it is removed; this does not that oil flows out when the filler/level plug is
number T20118, though alternatives may be necessarily icate that the level is correct, removed, check that the car is completely level
available). Since the plug will almost certainly To ensure th a true level is established, wait (front-to-rear and side-to-side), and allow the
be very tight, badly-fitting substitute tools are until the initic rickle has stopped, then add oil surplus to drain off into a suitable container.
unlikely to work, and damage may be caused as necessan mtil a trickle of new oil can be 6 When the oil level is correct, refit the filler/
to the plug's splines. seen emergi The level will be correct when level plug and tighten it to the specified torque.
4 The oil level should reach the lower edge of the flow cea s; use only good-quality oil of Wipe off any spilt oil then refit the engine
the filler/level hole. A certain amount of oil will the specified pe. undershield(s), tighten the retaining bolts
have gathered behind the filler/level plug, and 5 If the tran nission has been overfilled so securely, and lower the car to the ground.

Every 40 000 miles or 4 years
4 Fit the ne air filter element, ensuring that 9 With the top cover upside down on the
24 Air filter element renewal the edges ar securely seated, bench, undo the four bolts and remove the
5 Refit the c er and tighten the bolts, cover, then withdraw the air filter element and
6 Before off ng the cover back on, refit the gasket. Check the gasket for condition and
rubber seal hich fits over the throttle body renew if necessary.
(see illustra n). Reconnect the hoses, then 10 Fit the gasket and the new air filter
1.2 litre engines press the top over into the rubber grommets. element, ensuring that the edges are securely
1 The air filter element is incorporated into the seated.
engine top cover. 1.4 litre ngines 11 Refit the cover and tighten the bolts.
2 Lift the engine top cover from the rubber 12 Reconnect the hoses then press the top
Engine coc s AUB, BBY, BBZ and BKY cover into the rubber grommets.
grommets, disconnect the crankcase ventilation
hose (see illustrations 3.2b and 3.2c). 7 Theairfilti element is incorporated into the Engine code BXW
3 With the top cover upside down on the engine top c er.
13 Undo the bolts and lift the upper part of
bench, undo the bolts and remove the cover, 8 Lift the ei ne top cover from the rubber
the air cleaner housing. Disconnect breather
then withdraw the air filter element (see grommets d disconnect the hoses as
the hose as the cover is removed.
illustrations). necessary. 14 Remove the air filter element.
15 Fit the new element, ensuring the edges
are correctly seated.
16 Refit the cover and tighten the bolts.
17 Reconnect the breather hose.

25 Spark plug renewal

1 The correct functioning of the spark plugs
is vital for the correct running and efficiency of
the engine. It is essential that the plugs fitted
24.3a Undo the bolts (arrowed) securing 24J8b Release the clips . . . are appropriate for the engine (a suitable type
the filter cover is specified at the beginning of this Chapter).
If this type is used and the engine is in good
condition, the spark plugs should not need
attention between scheduled renewal intervals.
Spark plug cleaning is rarely necessary, and
should not be attempted unless specialised
equipment is available, as damage can easily
be caused to the firing ends.
1.2 litre engines
2 Remove the engine top cover.
3 The HT coils must now be pulled from the
tops of the spark plugs. Seat technicians use a
special tool to do this as the coils are very tight
in their holders, however, a length of strong
24.3c . . . and remove the filter element 24.6 Refit the rubber seal welding rod or similar, bent at right-angles at
one end, will do the task. Hook the rod under
Every 40 000 miles - petrol models

25.3a Use a bent rod to release the HT 25.3b .. . then remove them from the 25.7 Remove the spark plugs
coils . . . cylinder head 1.2 litre engine

25.12a If single-electrode plugs are being
fitted, check the electrode gap using a 25.12b . . . or a wire gauge . . . 25.13 . . . and if necessary adjust the gap
feeler gauge . . . by bending the electrode
the wiring connector/HT coil then pull directly and white, with no deposits, this is indicative the plug gap on a spark plug with more than
upwards (see illustrations). of a weak mixture or too hot a plug (a hot plug one earth electrode.
transfers heat away from the electrode slowly, 13 Special spark plug electrode gap adjusting
1.4 litre engines a cold plug transfers heat away quickly). tools are available from most motor accessory
Engine code AUB 9 If the tip and insulator nose are covered shops, or from some spark plug manufacturers
with hard black-looking deposits, then this is (see illustration).
4 Remove the engine top cover. Disconnect
indicative that the mixture is too rich. Should 14 Before fitting the spark plugs, check that
the HT leads from the spark plugs, taking care
the plug be black and oily, then it is likely that the threaded connector sleeves are tight, and
to pull on the connectors and not the leads.
the engine is fairly worn, as well as the mixture that the plug exterior surfaces and threads are
Engine codes BBY, BKY, BBZ and BXW being too rich. clean. It's often difficult to screw in new spark
5 Remove the engine top cover. The HT coils 10 If the insulator nose is covered with plugs without cross-threading them - this can
must now be pulled from the tops of the spark light tan to greyish-brown deposits, then be avoided using a piece of rubber hose (see
plugs. Seat technicians use a special tool the mixture is correct and it is likely that the Haynes Hint).
to do this as the coils are very tight in their engine is in good condition.
holders, however, a length of strong welding 11 The spark plug electrode gap is of
rod or similar, bent at right-angles at one end, considerable importance as, if it is too large
will do the task. Hook the rod under the wiring or too small, the size of the spark and its
connector/HT coil then pull directly upwards efficiency will be seriously impaired. On
(see illustrations 25.3a and 25.3b) engines fitted with multi-electrode spark
plugs, it is recommended that the plugs are
All engines renewed rather than attempting to adjust
6 It is advisable to remove the dirt from the the gaps. On other spark plugs, the gap
spark plug recesses using a clean brush, should be set to the value given by the
vacuum cleaner or compressed air before manufacturer.
removing the plugs, to prevent dirt dropping 12 To set the gap on single electrode plugs,
into the cylinders. measure it with a feeler blade and then bend
7 Unscrew the plugs using a spark plug open, or closed, the outer plug electrode It is very often difficult to insert
spanner, suitable box spanner or a deep until the correct gap is achieved. The centre spark plugs into their holes without
socket and extension bar (see illustration). electrode should never be bent, as this may cross-threading them. To avoid this
Keep the socket aligned with the spark plug - crack the insulator and cause plug failure, if possibility, fit a short length of rubber
if it is forcibly moved to one side, the ceramic nothing worse. If using feeler blades, the gap hose over the end of the spark plug.
insulator may be broken off. The use of a is correct when the appropriate-size blade is The flexible hose acts as a universal
universal joint socket will be helpful. As each a firm sliding fit (see illustrations). However, joint to help align the plug with the plug
plug is removed, examine it as follows. several models covered by this manual use thread, the hose will slip on the spark
8 Examination of the spark plugs will give a spark plugs with multiple earth electrodes plug, preventing thread damage to the
good indication of the condition of the engine. - unless there is clear information to the aluminium cylinder head.
If the insulator nose of the spark plug is clean contrary, no attempt should be made to adjust
1A.U Every 40 000 miles - petrol models

26.2 Unscrew the cap from the hydraulic ower steering fluid level must 26.3b Alternative power steering cap
fluid reservoir the upper and lower marks markings
15 Remove the rubber hose (if used), and with the dips ck attached to the reservoir filler be made by a Seat dealer who will have the
tighten the plug to the specified torque using cap. Unscre the cap from the hydraulic fluid instrumentation to check the temperature and
the spark plug socket and a torque wrench. reservoir, an wipe clean the integral dipstick to check the transmission electronics for fault
Refit the remaining spark plugs in the same with a clean loth (see illustration). codes. Overfilling or underfilling adversely
manner. 3 Screw on he cap hand-tight then unscrew affects the function of the transmission.
16 Reconnect the HT leads/ignition coils it again an check the fluid level on the 1 Take the car on a short journey to warm
using a reversal of the removal procedure, dipstick. Th fluid level must be between the the transmission slightly (see Note at the start
then refit the engine top cover. MIN (or low \ and MAX (or upper) marks (see of this Section), then park the car on level
illustrations , If the fluid is cold (below 50°C), ground and engage P with the selector lever.
26 Power steering hydraulic it must be a1 least above the lower level mark Raise the front and rear of the car and support
fluid level check or MIN. If th< fluid is hot (above 50°C), it must it on axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle
not be abov( the upper level mark or MAX. support), ensuring the car is kept level. Undo
4 If the level s above the maximum level mark, the retaining bolts and remove the engine
siphon off th ; excess amount. If it is below the undershield(s) to gain access to the base of
1 Turn the front roadwheels to the straight- minimum le el mark, add the specified fluid the transmission unit.
ahead position without starting the engine. as necessar (see Lubricants and fluids), but 2 Start the engine and run it at idle speed until
If the car has been left standing for an hour in this case also check the system for leaks, the transmission fluid temperature reaches
or more, the power steering fluid will be cold On completi n, screw on the cap and tighten. 35°C.
(below 50°C), and the 'cold' level markings Refit the ba1 ery and tray where removed. 3 Unscrew the fluid level plug from the bottom
must be used. If, however, the engine is at of the transmission sump (see illustration).
normal temperature (above 50°C), the fluid will 4 If fluid continually drips from the level
27 Autoi atic transmission
be hot, and the 'hot' level markings must be tube as the fluid temperature increases, the
fluid vel check ^>
used. fluid level is correct and does not need to be
2 The reservoir for the Electrically Powered topped-up. Note that there will be some fluid
Hydraulic Steering (EPHS) is located on already present in the level tube, and it will
the front left-hand corner of the engine Note: An accurate fluid level check can only be necessary to observe when this amount
compartment. Note: On some models with be made with the transmission fluid at a has drained before making the level check.
a high-capacity battery, the battery and tray temperature\of between 35°C and 45°C, and if Make sure that the check is made before
must be removed in order to access the it is not possible to ascertain this temperature, the fluid temperature reaches 45°C. Check
reservoir filler cap. The fluid level is checked it is strongly recommended that the check the condition of the seal on the level plug
and renew it if necessary. Refit the plug and
tighten to the specified torque.
5 If no fluid drips from the level tube, even
when the fluid temperature has reached 45°C,
it will be necessary to add fluid as follows
while the engine is still running.
6 Using a screwdriver, lever off the cap from
the filler tube on the front of the transmission.
Note: The locking device will be permanently
damaged and a new cap must be obtained.
7 With the cap removed, pull out the filler tube
plug then add the specified fluid until it drips
out of the level tube. Check the condition
of the seal on the level plug and renew it if
necessary. Refit the plug and tighten to the
specified torque.
8 Refit the filler tube plug and the new cap.
H31932 9 Switch off the ignition then refit the engine
undershield(s), tighten the retaining bolts
27.3 Automatic transmission fluid svel check securely, and lower the car to the ground.
10 Frequent need for topping-up indicates
1 Level plug Filler cap that there is a leak, which should be found
2 Level tube Retaining clip and corrected before it becomes serious.
Every 40 000 miles - petrol models ^/\•^5
Refer to Chapter 2B.
28 Timing belt and
tensioner renewal
(1.4 litre engines)

Every 2 years
prevent air entering the system. Once the 5 If the coolant has been drained for a reason
29 Brake (and clutch) new fluid emerges, securely tighten the other than renewal then, provided it is clean, it
fluid renewal bleed screw then disconnect and remove the can be re-used.
bleeding equipment. Securely refit the dust 6 Once all the coolant has drained, securely
cap then wash off all traces of spilt fluid. tighten the radiator drain plug or reconnect the
Warning: Brake hydraulic fluid 7 On all models, ensure the master cylinder bottom hose to the radiator (as applicable).
can harm your eyes and damage fluid level is correct (see Weekly checks) and Where necessary, also reconnect the coolant
painted surfaces, so use extreme thoroughly check the operation of the brakes hose to the oil cooler and secure it in position
caution when handling and pouring it. Do and (where necessary) clutch before taking with the retaining clip. Refit the undershield(s),
not use fluid that has been standing open the car on the road. tighten the retaining bolts securely.
for some time, as it absorbs moisture
from the air. Excess moisture can cause a 30 Coolant renewal Cooling system flushing
dangerous loss of braking effectiveness. 7 If the recommended Seat coolant has not
1 The procedure is similar to that for the been used and coolant renewal has been
bleeding of the hydraulic system as described neglected, or if the antifreeze mixture has
in Chapter 9, except that the brake fluid become diluted, the cooling system may
Note: This work is not included in the Seat
reservoir should be emptied by siphoning, gradually lose efficiency, as the coolant
schedule, and should not be required if the
using a clean poultry baster or similar before passages become restricted due to rust, scale
recommended Seat G12 coolant antifreeze/
starting, and allowance should be made for deposits, and other sediment. The cooling
inhibitor is used. However, if standard
the old fluid to be expelled when bleeding a system efficiency can be restored by flushing
antifreeze/inhibitor is used, the work should be
section of the circuit. Since the clutch hydraulic the system clean.
carried out at the recommended interval.
system also uses fluid from the brake system 8 The radiator should be flushed
Warning: Wait until the engine
reservoir, it should also be bled at the same separately from the engine, to avoid excess
f\s cold before starting this pro-
time by referring to Chapter 6, Section 2. contamination.
cedure. Do not allow antifreeze
2 Working as described in Chapter 9, open Radiator flushing
to come in contact with your skin, or with
the first bleed screw in the sequence, and
the car's painted surfaces. Rinse off spills 9 To flush the radiator, first tighten the radiator
pump the brake pedal gently until nearly all
immediately with plenty of water. Never drain plug.
the old fluid has been emptied from the master
leave antifreeze lying around in an open 10 Disconnect the top and bottom hoses and
cylinder reservoir.
container, or in a puddle in the driveway or any other relevant hoses from the radiator (see
3 Top-up to the MAX level with new fluid,
on the garage floor. Children and pets are Chapter 3).
and continue pumping until only the new fluid
attracted by its sweet smell, but antifreeze 11 Insert a garden hose into the radiator top
remains in the reservoir, and new fluid can be
can be fatal if ingested. inlet. Direct a flow of clean water through the
seen emerging from the bleed screw. Tighten
the screw, and top the reservoir level up to the Cooling system draining radiator, and continue flushing until clean
MAX level line. water emerges from the radiator bottom
1 With the engine completely cold, unscrew outlet.
the expansion tank cap.
Old hydraulic fluid is often 12 If after a reasonable period the water still
2 Firmly apply the handbrake then jack up the
much darker in colour than does not run clear, the radiator can be flushed
front of the car and support it on axle stands
HINT the new, making it easy to
(see Jacking and vehicle support). Undo
with a good proprietary cleaning agent. It is
distinguish the two. important that the manufacturer's instructions
the retaining bolts and remove the engine
undershield(s) to gain access to the base of are followed carefully. If the contamination is
4 Work through all the remaining bleed screws the radiator. particularly bad, insert the hose in the radiator
in the sequence until new fluid can be seen 3 Position a suitable container beneath the bottom outlet, and reverse-flush the radiator.
at all of them. Be careful to keep the master coolant drain plug which is located in the
cylinder reservoir topped-up to above the MIN bottom hose fitting to the left-hand bottom
level at all times, or air may enter the system end of the radiator. Unscrew the drain plug
and greatly increase the length of the task. and pull it out slightly (there is no need to
5 When the operation is complete, check that remove it completely) and allow the coolant
all bleed screws are securely tightened, and to drain into the container (see illustration). If
that their dust caps are refitted. Wash off all desired, a length of tubing can be fitted to the
traces of spilt fluid, and recheck the master drain outlet to direct the flow of coolant during
cylinder reservoir fluid level. draining. Where no drain outlet is fitted to the
6 On models with a manual transmission unit, hose end fitting, remove the retaining clip and
once the brake fluid has been changed the disconnect the bottom hose from the radiator
clutch fluid should also be renewed. Referring to drain the coolant (see Chapter 3).
to Chapter 6, bleed the clutch until new fluid 4 On engines with an oil cooler, to fully drain
is seen to be emerging from the slave cylinder the system, also disconnect one of the coolant
bleed screw, keeping the master cylinder fluid hoses from the oil cooler which is located at 30.3 Unscrew the drain plug and allow the
level above the MIN level line at all times to the front of the cylinder block. coolant to drain into the container
Every 2 years - petro models
18 Remove e expansion tank filler cap 25 Do not use engine antifreeze in the
and slowly fi the system with coolant (see windscreen/tailgate washer system, as it will
illustration), jntil bubble-free coolant runs damage the paintwork. A screenwash additive
from the tern erature sensor hole, then refit should be added to the washer system in the
the sensor ii imediately with reference to quantities stated on the bottle.
Chapter 3. jntinue to fill the system until
the level is u[ to the MAX level mark on the Airlocks
expansion tar Help to bleed the air from the 26 If, after draining and refilling the system,
system by re eatedly squeezing the radiator symptoms of overheating are found which did
bottom hose. not occur previously, then the fault is almost
19 Refit the ap to the expansion tank, then certainly due to trapped air at some point in
run the engir at a fast idle speed until the the system, causing an airlock and restricting
cooling fan c its in. Wait for the fan to stop the flow of coolant; usually, the air is trapped
30.18 Filling the cooling system then switch he engine off and allow the because the system was refilled too quickly.
engine to coo 27 If an airlock is suspected, first try gently
Engine flushing 20 When the engine has cooled, check the squeezing all visible coolant hoses. A coolant
coolant level i/ith reference to Weekly checks. hose which is full of air feels quite different
13 To flush the engine, remove the thermostat to one full of coolant, when squeezed. After
Top-up the I vel if necessary, and refit the
(see Chapter 3). expansion tar k cap. refilling the system, most airlocks will clear
14 With the bottom hose disconnected once the system has cooled, and been
from the radiator, insert a garden hose into Antifreezi mixture topped-up.
the thermostat housing. Direct a clean flow 21 If the rec >mmended Seat coolant is not 28 While the engine is running at operating
of water through the engine, and continue being used, ie antifreeze should always be temperature, switch on the heater and heater
flushing until clean water emerges from the renewed at he specified intervals. This is fan, and check for heat output. Provided there
radiator bottom hose. necessary nc only to maintain the antifreeze is sufficient coolant in the system, any lack of
15 When flushing is complete, refit the properties, ut also to prevent corrosion heat output could be due to an airlock in the
thermostat and reconnect the hoses (see which would therwise occur as the corrosion system.
Chapter 3). inhibitors bee Dme progressively less effective, 29 Airlocks can have more serious effects
Cooling system filling 22 Always se an ethylene-glycol based than simply reducing heater output - a severe
antifreeze hich is suitable for use in airlock could reduce coolant flow around the
16 Before attempting to fill the cooling mixed-meta cooling systems. The quantity engine. Check that the radiator top hose is hot
system, ensure the drain plug is securely of antifreeze and levels of protection are when the engine is at operating temperature -
closed and make sure that all hoses are indicated in t e Specifications, a top hose which stays cold could be the result
securely connected and their retaining clips 23 Before i dding antifreeze, the cooling of an airlock (or a non-opening thermostat).
are in good condition. If the recommended system she uld be completely drained, 30 If the problem persists, stop the engine
Seat coolant is not being used, ensure that preferably fli shed, and all hoses checked for and allow it to cool down completely before
a suitable antifreeze mixture is used all year condition an security. unscrewing the expansion tank filler cap or
round, to prevent corrosion of the engine 24 After with antifreeze, a label should loosening the hose clips and squeezing the
components (see following sub-Section). be attached the expansion tank, stating the hoses to bleed out the trapped air. In the
17 Remove the coolant temperature sensor type and coi :entration of antifreeze used, and worst case, the system will have to be at least
from the coolant distribution housing on the date inst lied. Any subsequent topping-up partially drained (this time, the coolant can
the left-hand end of the cylinder head with should be lade with the same type and be saved for re-use) and flushed to clear the
reference to Chapter 3. concentratio of antifreeze. problem.
Chapter 1 Part B:
Routine maintenance andservicing -
diesel models
Contents Section number Section number
Air filter element renewal 26 Hinge and lock lubrication 16
Airbag unit check 17 Hose and fluid leak check 7
Antifreeze check 9 Introduction 1
Auxiliary drivebelt check and renewal 8 Manual transmission oil level check 25
Battery check 15 Particulate filter check 29
Brake (and clutch) fluid renewal 30 Pollen filter element renewal 23
Brake hydraulic circuit check 10 Power steering hydraulic fluid level check 27
Brake pad/lining check 5 Regular maintenance 2
Coolant renewal 31 Resetting the service interval display 22
Driveshaft check 13 Road test and exhaust emissions check 21
Engine management self-diagnosis memory fault check 19 Steering and suspension check 14
Engine oil and filter renewal 3 Sunroof check and lubrication 20
Exhaust system check 6 Timing belt and tensioning roller renewal 28
Fuel filter renewal 24 Underbody protection check 12
Fuel filter water draining 4 Windscreen/tailgate/headlight washer system check 18
Headlight beam adjustment 11

Degrees of difficulty
Easy, suitable for ^ Fairly easy, suitable ^ Fairly difficult, ^ Difficult, suitable ^ Very difficult, ^
novice with little for beginner with ^ suitable for competent *Js» for experienced DIY ^ suitable for expert ^
experience ^ some experience \ DIY mechanic 2^ mechanic s^ DIY or professional 2^
1B.2 Servicing specificatior||s - diesel models
Lubricants and fluids ||. . . . Refer to end of Weekly checks on page O16

I
Engine codes
1.4 litre (3-cylinder) II AMF, BMS, BNM and BNV
1.9 litre (4-cylinder) || AID, AXR, ASZ, BLT and BMT

Capacities
Engine oil (including filter)
1.4 litre engines II 4.2 litres
1.9 litre engines II 4.5 litres
Cooling system
1.4 litre engines II 6.2 litres
1.9 litre engines II 6.8 litres
Transmission
Manual transmission:
1.4 litre engines |j 2.0 litres
1.9 litre engines:
Engine codes ATD, AXR and BMT II 2.0 litres
Engine codes ASZ and BLT 2.3 litres
Fuel tank (approximate) II 45 litres

Cooling system
Antifreeze mixture:
40% antifreeze Jl Protection down to -25°C
50% antifreeze Protection down to -35°C
Note: Refer to antifreeze manufacturer for latest recommendations.

Brakes
Brake pad minimum thickness:
Including backing plate:
Front II 7.0 mm
Rear || 7.6 mm
Friction lining only:
Front and rear II 2.0 mm
Rear brake shoe friction material minimum thickness II 1.5 mm

Torque wrench settings Mm ibf ft
Alternator mounting bolt || 20 15
Manual gearbox filler/level plug:
5-speed transmission J| 25 18
6-speed transmission:
Hex-headed (Allen key) plug || 30 22
12-point splined plug 45 33
Roadwheel bolts | 120 89
Sump drain plug |] 30 22
Maintenance schedule - diesel models ^B•
The maintenance intervals in this manual are When the vehicle is new, it should be All Seat models are equipped with a service
provided with the assumption that you, not the serviced by a dealer service department (or interval display indicator in the instrument
dealer, will be carrying out the work. These are other workshop recognised by the vehicle panel. Every time the engine is started the
the minimum intervals recommended by us for manufacturer as providing the same standard panel will illuminate for approximately 20
cars driven daily. If you wish to keep your car of service) in order to preserve the warranty. seconds with service information. Once the
in peak condition at all times, you may wish The vehicle manufacturer may reject warranty service interval has been reached, the display
to perform some of these procedures more claims if you are unable to prove that servicing will flash 'INSP' for a service.
often. We encourage frequent maintenance, has been carried out as and when specified, Note that the following schedule is our
since it enhances the efficiency, performance using only original equipment parts or parts recommendation for service intervals and
and resale value of your car. certified to be of equivalent quality. service tasks.

Every 250 miles or weekly Every 20 000 miles or 2 years,
n Refer to Weekly checks whichever comes first
D Renew the pollen filter element (Section 23)
Every 6000 miles or 6 months, L ] Renew the fuel filter (Section 24)
D Check the manual transmission oil level
whichever comes first (Section 25)
Li Renew the engine oil and filter (Section 3)
Note: Seat recommend that the engine oil and filter are changed
every 10 000 miles or 12 months. However, oil and filter changes are Every 40 000 miles or 4 years,
good for the engine and we recommend that the oil and filter are
renewed more frequently, especially if the vehicle is used on a lot of
whichever comes first
short journeys. [ ] Renew the air filter element (Section 26)
D Check the power steering hydraulic fluid level
(Section 27)
Every 10 000 miles or 12 months, D Renew the timing belt and tensioner roller
whichever comes first (Section 28)*
* Seat specify timing belt inspection after the first 80 000 miles and
Note: In addition to the item given above. then every 20 000 miles until the renewal interval of 100 000 miles.
ili Fuel filter water draining (Section 4) However, if the car is used mainly for short journeys, we recommend
LD Brake pad/lining check (Section 5) that this shorter renewal interval is adhered to. The belt renewal
n Check the condition of the exhaust system and its interval is very much up to the individual owner but, bearing in mind
mountings (Section 6) that severe engine damage will result if the belt breaks in use, we
recommend the shorter interval.
n Check all underbonnet components and hoses for
fluid and oil leaks (Section 7)
n Check the condition of the auxiliary drivebelt Every 80 000 miles
(Section 8)
[ ! Check the particulate filter - engine code BMT only
[j Check the coolant antifreeze concentration
(Section 29)
(Section 9)
Li Check the brake hydraulic circuit for leaks and
damage (Section 10) Every 100000 miles
n Check the headlight beam adjustment (Section 11)
D Check the underbody protection for damage G Check the particulate filter - engine code BMS only
(Section 12) (Section 29)
Check the condition of the driveshafts (Section 13)
Check the steering and suspension components
for condition and security (Section 14)
Every 2 years
U Check the battery condition, security and D Renew the brake (and clutch) fluid (Section 30)
electrolyte level (Section 15) n Renew the coolant (Section 31)*
H Lubricate all hinges and locks (Section 16) * This work is not included in the Seat schedule, and should not be
required if the recommended Seat G12 coolant antifreeze/inhibitor
n Check the condition of the airbag unit(s) (Section 17) is used.
i j Check the operation of the windscreen/tailgate/
headlight washer system(s) (as applicable) (Section 18)
D Check the engine management self-diagnosis
memory for faults (Section 19)
n Check the operation of the sunroof and lubricate
the guide rails (Section 20)
CJ Carry out a road test and check exhaust emissions
(Section 21)
Reset the service indicator (Section 22)
1B-4 Component location -I diesel models
Underbonnet view of a 1.4 litre m|>del (1.9 litre model similar)
1 Engine oil filler cap
2 Engine oil dipstick
3 Oil filter
4 Coolant expansion tank
L10J 5 Fuel filter
IMIIIIIII 6 Windscreen/headlight
washer fluid reservoir
7 Master cylinder brake
fluid reservoir
8 Valve block
9 Air cleaner housing
* 2r< rm 10 Engine management ECM
11 Battery
12 Alternator

1 V

Front underbody view of a 1.4 litre model (1.9 litre model similar)
Sump drain plug
Manual transmission drain
plug
Engine rear mounting/link
Driveshaft
Front suspension
subframe
Front suspension lower
arm
Steering track rod
Front brake call per
Front exhaust pipe
Intercooler hose to
turbocharger
Air conditioning
compressor
12 Radiator bottom hose
Component location - diesel models
Rear underbody view
1 Fuel tank
2 Rear axle assembly
3 Rear suspension coil
spring
4 Rear shock absorber
5 Exhaust rear silencer
6 Handbrake cables
7 Hydraulic brake line
8 Fuel filler pipe

Maintenance procedures
Sections relevant to the work to be carried out, described in this Chapter will not greatly
1 Introduction then make a list and gather all the parts and improve the performance of the engine, and
tools required. If a problem is encountered, may prove a waste of time and money, unless
seek advice from a parts specialist, or a dealer extensive overhaul work is carried out first.
service department. 4 The following series of operations are those
This Chapter is designed to help the home most often required to improve the performance
mechanic maintain his/her car for safety, 2 Regular maintenance of a generally poor-running engine:
economy, long life and peak performance. Primary operations
The Chapter contains a master maintenance
schedule, followed by Sections dealing a) Clean, inspect and test the battery (See
specifically with each task in the schedule. 'Weekly checks').
1 If, from the time the car is new, the routine b) Check all the engine-related fluids (See
Visual checks, adjustments, component renewal
maintenance schedule is followed closely, and 'Weekly checks').
and other helpful items are included. Refer to
the accompanying illustrations of the engine frequent checks are made of fluid levels and c) Drain the water from the fuel filter (Sec-
compartment and the underside of the car for high-wear items, as suggested throughout this tion 4).
the locations of the various components. manual, the engine will be kept in relatively d) Check the condition and tension of the
Servicing your car will provide a planned good running condition, and the need for auxiliary drivebelt (Section 8).
maintenance programme, which should result additional work will be minimised. e) Check the condition of the air filter, and
in a long and reliable service life. This is a 2 It is possible that there will be times when renew if necessary (Section 26).
comprehensive plan, so maintaining some the engine is running poorly due to the lack of f) Check the condition of all hoses, and
items but not others will not produce the same regular maintenance. This is even more likely if check for fluid leaks (Section 7).
results. a used car, which has not received regular and 5 If the above operations do not prove fully
As you service your car, you will discover frequent maintenance checks, is purchased. effective, carry out the following secondary
that many of the procedures can - and In such cases, additional work may need to be operations:
should - be grouped together, because of carried out, outside of the regular maintenance
the particular procedure being performed, or intervals. Secondary operations
because of the proximity of two otherwise 3 If engine wear is suspected, a compression All items listed under Primary operations, plus
unrelated components to one another. For test (refer to Chapter 2C) will provide valuable the following:
example, if the car is raised for any reason, the information regarding the overall performance a) Check the charging system (see Chap-
exhaust can be inspected at the same time as of the main internal components. Such a test ter 5A).
the suspension and steering components. can be used as a basis to decide on the extent b) Check the preheating system (see
The first step in this maintenance of the work to be carried out. If, for example, Chapter 5A).
programme is to prepare yourself before the a compression test indicates serious internal c) Renew the fuel filter (Section 24) and
actual work begins. Read through all the engine wear, conventional maintenance as check the fuel system (see Chapter 4B).
B-6 Maintenance procedures - diesel models

3.2 Undo the bolts (arrowed) and remove the engine unde rshield 3.3 Sump drain plug (arrowed)

Every 6000 miles or 6 months
DIY owner, ; engine oil ages, it becomes turn. Position the draining container under the
3 Engine oil and filter renewal diluted and ontaminated, which leads to drain plug, then remove the plug completely
premature e ine wear. (see illustration and Haynes Hint). Recover
2 Before st Irting this procedure, gather all the sealing ring from the drain plug.
the necessa tools and materials. Also make 4 Allow some time for the old oil to drain,
1 Frequent oil and filter changes are the sure that yo have plenty of clean rags and noting that it may be necessary to reposition
most important preventative maintenance newspaper: handy, to mop-up any spills. the container as the oil flow slows to a trickle.
procedures which can be undertaken by the Ideally, the ngine oil should be warm, as it 5 After all the oil has drained, wipe off the
will drain be :er, and more built-up sludge will drain plug with a clean rag, and fit a new
be removed it. Take care, however, not to sealing washer. Clean the area around the
touch the exrtiaust or any other hot parts of the drain plug opening, and refit the plug. Tighten
engine wheri working under the car. To avoid the plug securely.
any possibility of scalding, and to protect 6 Remove the engine top cover and packing
yourself fro possible skin irritants and other (if not already done so) to gain access to
harmful co taminants in used engine oils, the oil filter housing. Place absorbent cloths
it is advisat e to wear gloves when carrying around the filter housing to catch any spilt oil.
out this we pk. Access to the underside of 7 Unscrew and remove the cap from the top
the car will )e greatly improved if it can be of the oil filter housing using an oil filter strap
raised on a ift, driven onto ramps, or jacked or suitable spanner. Recover the large sealing
up and supdorted on axle stands (see Jacking ring from the cap, and the small sealing ring
and vehicle support). Whichever method is from the centre rod. Lift out the filter element
chosen, mate sure that the car remains level, (see illustrations). Dispose of the element.
Keep the drain plug pressed into the or if it is al an angle, that the drain plug is 8 Using a clean rag, wipe all oil and sludge
sump while unscrewing it by hand at the lowe It point. Undo the retaining Torx from the inside of the filter housing and
the last couple of turns. As the plug bolts and nfmove the engine undershield(s), cap(s).
releases, move it away sharply so the then also re move the engine top cover where 9 Fit new sealing rings to the cap, then insert
stream of oil issuing from the sump runs applicable, oy pulling it upwards at the front the new element and cap, and tighten securely
into the container, not up your sleeve. edge (see il ustration). (see illustrations). Wipe up any spilt oil before
3 Slacken he sump drain plug about half a refitting the engine top cover(s).

3.7a Unscrew the cap . .. and remove the filter element 3.7c Remove the sealing ring from the cap
Every 6000 miles - diesel models IB.?
10 Remove the old oil and all tools from under
the car then refit the undershield(s) and lower
the car to the ground. Also refit the engine top
cover.
11 Remove the dipstick, then unscrew the oil
filler cap from the cylinder head cover. Fill the
engine, using the correct grade and type of oil
(see Lubricants and fluids). An oil can spout or
funnel may help to reduce spillage. Pour in half
the specified quantity of oil first, then wait a few
minutes for the oil to run to the sump (see Weekly
checks). Continue adding oil a small quantity at
a time until the level is up to the maximum mark
on the dipstick. Refit the filler cap. 3.9a Lubricate the O-ring seal with engine 3.9b Insert the filter element together with
12 Start the engine and run it for a few oil the cap
minutes; check for leaks around the oil filter Warning: Do not increase the more. With the new oil circulated and the
cap and the sump drain plug. Note that there engine speed above idling while filter completely full, recheck the level on the
may be a few seconds delay before the oil the oil pressure light is illuminated, dipstick, and add more oil as necessary.
pressure warning light goes out when the as considerable damage can be caused to 14 Dispose of the used engine oil safely, with
engine is started, as the oil circulates through the turbocharger. reference to General repair procedures in the
the engine oil galleries and the new oil filter 13 Switch off the engine, and wait a few Reference section of this manual.
before the pressure builds-up. minutes for the oil to settle in the sump once

Every 10 000 miles or 12 months
valve and wipe off any surplus fuel from the 2 If the outer pads are worn near their limits, it
4 Fuel filter water draining nozzle. is worthwhile checking the inner pads as well.
7 Remove the collecting container and rags, Jack up car and support it on axle stands (see
then push the filter unit back into the retaining Jacking and vehicle support). Remove the
bracket and tighten the bracket securing bolt. roadwheels.
Note: This procedure is only applicable where 8 Run the engine at idle and check around 3 Use a steel rule to check the thickness
a control valve is fitted to the top of the filter, the fuel filter for fuel leaks. of the brake pads, and compare with the
fitted to 1.9 litre engines, and 1.4 litre engine 9 Raise the engine speed to about 2000 rpm minimum thickness given in the Specifications
code AMF. several times, then allow the engine to idle again. (see illustration).
1 Periodically, the water collected from the Observe the fuel flow through the transparent 4 For a comprehensive check, the brake
fuel by the filter unit must be drained out. hose leading to the fuel injection pump and pads should be removed and cleaned. The
2 The fuel filter is mounted on the right-hand check that it is free of air bubbles. operation of the caliper can then also be
inner wing (right as seen from the driver's seat) checked, and the condition of the brake disc
(see illustration). At the top of the filter unit, 5 Brake pad/lining check itself can be fully examined on both sides.
release the clip and lift out the control valve, Refer to Chapter 9.
leaving the fuel hoses attached. 5 If any pad's friction material is worn to the
3 Slacken the bolt and raise the filter in its specified minimum thickness or less, all four
retaining bracket. pads at the front or rear, as applicable, must
4 Position a container below the filter unit and be renewed as a set.
pad the surrounding area with rags to absorb
Front and rear disc brakes
6 On completion of the check, refit the road-
any fuel that may be spilt. 1 The outer brake pads can be checked
wheels and lower the car to the ground.
5 Unscrew the drain valve at the base of the without removing the wheels, by observing the
filter unit, until fuel starts to run out into the brake pads through the holes in the wheels
container. Keep the valve open until about (see illustration). If necessary, remove the
100 cc of fuel has been collected. wheel trim. The thickness of the pad lining
6 Refit the control valve to the top of the filter must not be less than the dimension given in
and insert the retaining clip. Close the drain the Specifications.

H31925

4.2 The fuel filter is mounted on the 5.1 The outer brake pads can be observed 5.3 The thickness (a) of the brake pads
right-hand inner wing through the holes in the wheels must not be less than the specified amount
Every 10 000 miles - cfiesel models
the tailpipe. THE exhaust system is most easily cooling system components. Hose clips can
checked with the car raised on a hoist, or pinch and puncture hoses, resulting in cooling
supported on xle stands, so that the exhaust system leaks.
components a e readily visible and accessible 4 Inspect all the cooling system components
(see Jacking aid vehicle support). (hoses, joint faces, etc) for leaks (see Haynes
2 Check the Jxhaust pipes and connections Hint). Where any problems of this nature
for evidence I if leaks, severe corrosion and are found on system components, renew
damage. Mai e sure that all brackets and the component or gasket with reference to
mountings are in good condition, and that all Chapter 3.
relevant nuts and bolts are tight. Leakage at 5 With the car raised, inspect the fuel tank
any of the join s or in other parts of the system and filler neck for punctures, cracks and other
will usually show up as a black sooty stain in damage. The connection between the filler
the vicinity of he leak. neck and tank is especially critical. Sometimes
3 Rattles an p other noises can often be a rubber filler neck or connecting hose will leak
A leak in the cooling system will usually due to loose retaining clamps or deteriorated
traced to the pxhaust system, especially the
show up as white- or antifreeze-coloured
brackets anc mountings. Try to move the rubber.
deposits on the area adjoining the leak.
pipes and sil sneers. If the components are 6 Carefully check all rubber hoses and
able to come into contact with the body or metal fuel lines leading away from the tank.
Rear drum brakes suspension p; rts, secure the system with new Check for loose connections, deteriorated
7 Chock the front wheels, then jack up the mountings. C merwise separate the joints (if hoses, crimped lines, and other damage.
rear of the car and support it on axle stands possible) and twist the pipes as necessary to Pay particular attention to the vent pipes and
(see Jacking and vehicle support). provide additi )nal clearance. hoses, which often loop up around the filler
8 For a quick check, the thickness of friction neck and can become blocked or crimped.
material remaining on one of the brake shoes 7 Hose and fluid leak check Follow the lines to the front of the car, carefully
can be observed through the hole in the brake inspecting them all the way. Renew damaged
backplate which is exposed by prising out the sections as necessary.
rubber sealing grommet. If a rod of the same 7 From within the engine compartment, check
diameter as the specified minimum friction the security of all fuel hose attachments and pipe
material thickness is placed against the shoe 1 Visually i r p e c t the engine joint faces, unions, and inspect the fuel hoses and vacuum
friction material, the amount of wear can be gaskets and seals for any signs of water or hoses for kinks, chafing and deterioration.
assessed. An electric torch or inspection oil leaks. particular attention to the areas 8 Check the condition of the power steering
light will probably be required. If the friction around the c mshaft cover, cylinder head, oil fluid hoses and pipes.
material on any shoe is worn down to the filter and sun p joint faces. Bear in mind that,
specified minimum thickness or less, all four over a period Df time, some very slight seepage 8 Auxiliary drivebelt
shoes must be renewed as a set. from these i reas is to be expected - what check and renewal o^>
9 For a comprehensive check, the brake you are really looking for is any indication of a
drum should be removed and cleaned. This serious leak. Should a leak be found, renew the
will allow the wheel cylinders to be checked, offending gas ket or oil seal by referring to the
and the condition of the brake drum itself to appropriate C hapters in this manual. Check
be fully examined (see Chapter 9). 2 Also checl the security and condition of all
the engine-r Hated pipes and hoses. Ensure 1 Apply the handbrake, then jack up the front
10 On completion of the check, refit the road-
thai all cable ties or securing clips are in place of the car and support it on axle stands (see
wheels where removed, and lower the car to Jacking and vehicle support).
the ground. and in good :ondition. Clips which are broken
or missing c in lead to chafing of the hoses, 2 Using a socket on the crankshaft pulley
£, pipes or wi ing, which could cause more bolt, turn the engine slowly clockwise so
6 Exhaust system check that the full length of the auxiliary drivebelt
§^ serious prob ems in the future.
g^. 3 Carefully check the radiator hoses and can be examined. Look for cracks, splitting
J^ heater hos ps along their entire length. and fraying on the surface of the belt; check
Renew any lose which is cracked, swollen also for signs of glazing (shiny patches) and
1 With the engine cold (at least an hour after or deteriora! id. Cracks will show up better if separation of the belt plies. Use a mirror to
the car has been driven), check the complete the hose is queezed. Pay close attention to check the underside of the drivebelt (see
exhaust system from the engine to the end of the hose cli >s that secure the hoses to the illustration). If damage or wear is visible, or if
there are traces of oil or grease on it, the belt
should be renewed as follows:
Renewal
3 For improved access, apply the handbrake,
then jack up the front of the car and support
it on axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle
support). Where applicable, remove the engine
undershield.
4 Remove the right-hand front roadwheel,
then remove the wheel arch liner.
5 The tensioner must now be turned clockwise
to release the tension on the drivebelt. To
do this, either use a spanner to turn the
8.2 Check the underside of the auxiliary 8.5 On mddels with air conditioning, turn tensioner central bolt clockwise (models
drivebelt with a mirror the tensioner (arrowed) clockwise . .. with air conditioning) (see illustration), or
Every 10 OOP miles - diesel models
use a spanner on the square-shaped lug on
the top of the tensioner (models without air
conditioning). On the latter type, it is possible
to retain the tensioner with a pin inserted
through the holes provided.
6 Note how the drivebelt is routed, then
remove it from the crankshaft pulley, alternator
pulley, and air conditioning compressor pulley
(where applicable) (see illustration).
7 Locate the new drivebelt on the pulleys,
then release the tensioner. Check that the belt
is located correctly in the multi-grooves in the
pulleys.
8 Refit the access panel and roadwheel, and 8.6 . . . and remove the auxiliary drivebelt 13.1 Check the condition of the driveshaft
lower the car to the ground. gaiters (arrowed)
inner joints (see illustration). If any damage
1 1 Headlight beam adjustment or deterioration is found, the gaiters should be
9 Antifreeze check
I renewed (see Chapter 8).
2 At the same time, check the general
I condition of the CV joints themselves by
first holding the driveshaft and attempting
1 Accurate adjustment of the headlight beam
1 The cooling system should be filled with the to rotate the wheel. Repeat this check
is only possible using optical beam-setting
recommended G12 antifreeze and corrosion by holding the inner joint and attempting
equipment, and this work should therefore be
protection fluid - do not mix this antifreeze carried out by a Seat dealer or service station to rotate the driveshaft. Any appreciable
with any other type. Over a period of time, the with the necessary facilities. movement indicates wear in the joints, wear
concentration of fluid may be reduced due to 2 Basic adjustments can be carried out in an in the driveshaft splines, or a loose driveshaft
topping-up with water (this can be avoided by emergency, and further details are given in retaining nut.
topping-up with the correct antifreeze mixture - Chapter 12.
see Specifications) or fluid loss. If loss of coolant
has been evident, it is important to make the 14 Steering and
necessary repair before adding fresh fluid. 12 Underbody protection check k suspension check
2 With the engine cold, carefully remove the
cap from the expansion tank. If the engine is
not completely cold, place a cloth rag over the 1 Raise the front and rear of the car, and
cap before removing it, and remove it slowly Raise and support the car on axle stands securely support it on axle stands (see Jacking
to allow any pressure to escape. (see Jacking and vehicle support). Using and vehicle support).
3 Antifreeze checkers are available from car an electric torch or lead light, inspect the 2 Visually inspect the track rod end balljoint
accessory shops. Draw some coolant from entire underside of the car, paying particular dust cover, the lower front suspension balljoint
the expansion tank and follow the checker attention to the wheel arches. Look for any dust cover, and the steering rack-and-pinion
manufacturer's instructions. damage to the flexible underbody coating, gaiters for splits, chafing or deterioration. Any
4 If the concentration is incorrect, it will be which may crack or flake off with age, leading wear of these components will cause loss of
necessary to either withdraw some coolant to corrosion (note, however, that the Ibiza lubricant, together with dirt and water entry,
and add antifreeze, or alternatively drain does without such a coating for much of the resulting in rapid deterioration of the balljoints
the old coolant and add fresh coolant of the underbody, and has instead a pair of plastic or steering gear.
correct concentration (see Section 31). underbody panels at the front). 3 Check the power steering fluid hoses for
Also check that the wheel arch liners are chafing or deterioration, and the pipe and
10 Brake hydraulic circuit check k securely attached with any clips provided - if hose unions for fluid leaks. Also check for
they come loose, dirt may get in behind the signs of fluid leakage under pressure from
liners and defeat their purpose. If there is any the steering gear rubber gaiters, which would
damage to the underseal, or any corrosion, it indicate failed fluid seals within the steering
should be repaired before the damage gets gear.
1 Check the entire brake hydraulic circuit too serious.
for leaks and damage. Start by checking the 4 Grasp the roadwheel at the 12 o'clock and

I
master cylinder in the engine compartment. At
13 Driveshaft check
the same time, check the vacuum servo unit
and ABS units for signs of fluid leakage.
2 Raise the front and rear of the car and
support it on axle stands (see Jacking and
vehicle support). Check the rigid hydraulic 1 With the car raised and securely supported
brake lines for corrosion and damage. on stands, slowly rotate the roadwheel.
3 At the front of the car, check that the Inspect the condition of the outer constant
flexible hydraulic hoses to the calipers are not velocity (CV) joint rubber gaiters, squeezing
twisted or chafing on any of the surrounding the gaiters to open out the folds. Check for
suspension components. Turn the steering on signs of cracking, splits or deterioration of the
full lock to make this check. Also check that rubber, which may allow the grease to escape,
the hoses are not brittle or cracked. and lead to water and grit entry into the joint.
4 Lower the car to the ground after making Also check the security and condition of the 14.4 Check for wear in the hub bearings
the checks. retaining clips. Repeat these checks on the by grasping the wheel and trying to rock it
Every 10 000 miles - diesel models
6 o'clock positions, and try to rock it {see
illustration). Very slight free play may be felt, 17 Airbag unit check
but if the movement is appreciable, further I
investigation is necessary to determine the
source. Continue rocking the wheel while I
an assistant depresses the footbrake. If the Inspect the exterior condition of the
movement is now eliminated or significantly airbag(s) for signs of damage or deterioration.
reduced, it is likely that the hub bearings are If an airbag shows signs of damage, it must
at fault. If the free play is still evident with the be renewed (see Chapter 12). Note that it is
footbrake depressed, then there is wear in the not permissible to attach any stickers to the
suspension joints or mountings. surface of the airbag, as this may affect the
5 Now grasp the wheel at the 9 o'clock deployment of the unit.
and 3 o'clock positions, and try to rock it as
before. Any movement felt now may again 15.1 F emove the battery cover
be caused by wear in the hub bearings or 18 Windscreen/tailgate/
the steering track rod balljoints. If the inner or battery posil ve (+) terminal and fuse holder headlight washer
outer balljoint is worn, the visual movement connections. system check
will be obvious. 3 Check tha both battery terminals and all
6 Using a large screwdriver or flat bar, check the fuse ho der connections are securely 1 Check that each of the washer jet nozzles is
for wear in the suspension mounting bushes attached an< are free from corrosion. Note: clear and that each nozzle provides a strong
by levering between the relevant suspension Before discc meeting the terminals from the jet of washer fluid.
component and its attachment point. Some battery, refer o Chapter 5A. 2 The tailgate jet should be aimed to spray at
movement is to be expected as the mountings 4 Check th& battery casing for signs of the centre of the screen, using a pin.
are made of rubber, but excessive wear damage or < racking and check the battery 3 The windscreen washer nozzles are fixed,
should be obvious. Also check the condition retaining cla np bolt is securely tightened. If and cannot be adjusted.
of any visible rubber bushes, looking for splits, the battery c ising is damaged in any way the 4 Especially during the winter months, make
cracks or contamination of the rubber. battery must be renewed (see Chapter 5A). sure that the washer fluid concentration is
7 With the car standing on its wheels, have 5 If the cai is not fitted with a sealed- sufficient to avoid freezing.
an assistant turn the steering wheel back- for-life main enance-free battery, check the Caution: On no account use engine coolant
and-forth about an eighth of a turn each electrolyte I jvel is between the MAX and antifreeze in the screen washer system -
way. There should be very little, if any, lost MIN level m rkings on the battery casing. If this may damage the paintwork.
movement between the steering wheel and topping-up i necessary, remove the battery
roadwheels. If this is not the case, closely 5A) from the car then remove the
observe the joints and mountings previously
19 Engine management ^
cell caps/co er (as applicable). Using distilled
described, but in addition check the steering water, top th j electrolyte level of each cell up
self-diagnosis memory ^S
column universal joints for wear, and the rack- to the MAX 3vel mark then securely refit the fault check ^
and-pinion steering gear itself. cell caps/co /er. Ensure the battery has not
8 Check for any signs of fluid leakage been overfill d then refit the battery to the car This work should be carried out by a Seat
around the front suspension struts and rear (see Chapter 5 A). dealer or diagnostic specialist using special
shock absorber. Should any fluid be noticed, 6 Some mo els are fitted with a battery with equipment. The diagnostic socket is located
the suspension strut or shock absorber is a 'magic ey which shows the state of the behind a hinged cover beneath the driver's
defective internally, and should be renewed. battery and evel of electrolyte. The 'magic side of the facia.
Note: Suspension struts/shock absorbers eye' is locati d on the top of the battery, near
should always be renewed in pairs on the the negative terminal. If the eye is green, the 20 Sunroof check
same axle to ensure correct handling, battery is in ood condition and charged up. If
9 The efficiency of the suspension strut/shock the eye is bl ck, the battery is flat and should
and lubrication I
absorber may be checked by bouncing the
car at each corner. Generally speaking, the
be charged, f the eye is colourless or yellow,
the electroly 3 is low and in a critical condition,
I
body will return to its normal position and stop and should I e topped-up with distilled water. 1 Check the operation of the sunroof, and
after being depressed. If it rises and returns If charging tr e battery does not return the eye leave it in the fully open position.
on a rebound, the suspension strut/shock to green, the battery should be scrapped. 2 Wipe clean the guide rails on each side of the
absorber is probably suspect. Examine also 7 On compl >tion of the check, clip the cover sunroof opening, then apply lubricant to them.
the suspension strut/shock absorber upper securely bac < onto the fuse holder and close Seat recommend lubricant spray G 052 778.
and lower mountings for any signs of wear. up the cover
21 Road test and
15 Battery check 16 Hing and lock lubrication exhaust emissions check
I
I
1 The battery is located in the front, left-hand 1 Lubricate he hinges of the bonnet, doors Instruments and
corner of the engine compartment. Release and tailgate ith a light general-purpose oil. electrical equipment
the clip at the back, then swing the battery Similarly, lu |ricate all latches, locks and lock 1 Check the operation of all instruments
cover upwards and forwards to gain access to strikers. At e same time, check the security and electrical equipment including the air
the battery terminals (see illustration). and operati of all the locks, adjusting them conditioning system.
2 Where necessary, open the fuse holder if necessary see Chapter 11). 2 Make sure that all instruments read correctly,
plastic cover (squeeze together the locking 2 Lightly I bricate the bonnet release and switch on all electrical equipment in turn,
lugs to release the cover) to gain access to the mechanism nd cable with a suitable grease. to check that it functions properly.
Every 10 000 miles - diesel models IB.
Steering and suspension in a circle with the steering on full-lock. pulsing of the ABS unit must be felt at the
3 Check for any abnormalities in the steering, Carry out this check in both directions. If a footbrake pedal.
suspension, handling or road 'feel'. clicking noise is heard, this indicates wear in a
driveshaft joint, in which case renew the joint Exhaust emissions check
4 Drive the car, and check that there are
if necessary. 17 Although not part of the manufacturer's
no unusual vibrations or noises which may
maintenance schedule, this check will normally
indicate wear in the driveshafts, wheel Braking system be carried out on a regular basis according to
bearings, etc. the country the car is operated in. Currently in
12 Make sure that the car does not pull to
5 Check that the steering feels positive, with the UK, exhaust emissions testing is included
one side when braking, and that the wheels
no excessive 'sloppiness', or roughness, as part of the annual MOT test after the car is
do not lock when braking hard.
and check for any suspension noises when 3 years old.
13 Check that there is no vibration through
cornering and driving over bumps.
the steering when braking.
Drivetrain 14 Check that the handbrake operates 22 Resetting the service
6 Check the performance of the engine, correctly without excessive movement of the interval display
clutch, gearbox and driveshafts. lever, and that it holds the car stationary on a
7 Listen for any unusual noises from the slope.
engine, clutch and gearbox. 15 Test the operation of the brake servo unit 1 After all necessary maintenance work has
8 Make sure the engine runs smoothly at idle, as follows. With the engine off, depress the been completed, the service interval display
and there is no hesitation on accelerating. footbrake four or five times to exhaust the must be reset. Seat technicians use a special
9 Check that the clutch action is smooth vacuum. Hold the brake pedal depressed, then dedicated instrument to do this, and a
and progressive, that the drive is taken up start the engine. As the engine starts, there print-out is then put in the car's service record.
smoothly, and that the pedal travel is not should be a noticeable 'give' in the brake pedal It is possible for the owner to reset the display
excessive. Also listen for any noises when the as vacuum builds-up. Allow the engine to run as described in the following paragraph.
clutch pedal is depressed. for at least two minutes, and then switch it off. 2 To reset the display manually, switch off
10 Check that all gears can be engaged If the brake pedal is depressed now, it should the ignition, then press and hold down the
smoothly without noise, and that the gear be possible to detect a hiss from the servo as trip reset button beneath the speedometer.
lever action is smooth and not abnormally the pedal is depressed. After about four or five Switch on the ignition and observe the service
vague or 'notchy'. applications, no further hissing should be heard, interval, then hold the button down for 10 sec-
11 Listen for a metallic clicking sound from and the pedal should feel considerably harder. onds until ' ' appears, followed by the trip
the front of the car, as the car is driven slowly 16 Under controlled emergency braking, the readout.

Every 20 OOP miles or 2 years
inner wing (right as seen from the driver's filter unit and pad the surrounding area with
23 Pollen filter element renewal seat). Position a container underneath the rags to absorb any fuel that may be spilt.

1 The pollen filter is located on the heater
assembly, and is removed into the passenger
footwell. Undo the bolts and remove the panel
above the footwell.
2 Reach under the glovebox, and slide the
two retaining catches on the pollen filter lower
cover towards each other, to release and
remove the cover (see illustrations).
3 Withdraw the filter downwards from the
heater assembly, and remove from inside the
car (see illustration). 23.2a Slide the catches (arrowed) towards 23.2b . . . and remove the pollen filter
4 Separate the filter from the frame, noting each other.. lower cover
the fitted direction of the airflow arrows, which
should be towards the driver's side (see
illustration).
5 Fit the new filter to the frame, with the
airflow arrows pointing as noted before, then
insert it into the heater assembly. Refit the
lower cover, and slide the catches apart to
secure it.
6 Refit the panel above the footwell.

24 Fuel filter renewal <gx

23.3 Withdraw the pollen filter into the 23.4 Separate the filter from the frame,
1 The fuel filter is mounted on the right-hand passenger footwell noting the airflow arrows
Every 20 000 miles -- (liesel models

24.2 Release the clips and disconnect the
hoses from the fuel filter. Note the arrows ad the clips (arrowed) 24.3b . . . and lift the filter from the bracket
on the hoses indicating fuel flow outwards. .

Note: It may take a few seconds of cranking
before the engine starts,
11 Raise the engine speed to about 2000 rpm
several times, then allow the engine to idle
again. Observe the fuel flow through the
transparent hose leading to the fuel injection
pump and check that it is free of air bubbles.

25 Manual transmission
oil level check ^

24.4 Push the clips (arrowed) apart slightly 24.5 . . . si e out the retaining clip and 1 Park the car on a level surface. For
and lift the filter . . . lift out the ntrol valve, leaving the fuel improved access to the filler/level plug,
hoses attached apply the handbrake, then jack up the front
Engine codes BNV, BNM and BMS 6 Release th hose clips and pull the fuel of the car and support it on axle stands (see
supply and d livery hoses from the ports on Jacking and vehicle support), but note that
2 Note their fitted positions, then release the the rear of the car should also be raised to
clips and disconnect the fuel hoses from the the of the filte unit. Note the fitted position of
each hose, to aid correct refitting later. Lift the ensure an accurate level check. The oil level
top of the filter (see illustration).
filter from the sracket. must be checked before the car is driven, or
3 Spread the 3 retaining clips and lift the filter
Caution: Be / repared for fuel spillage. at least 5 minutes after the engine has been
from the bracket (see illustrations).
7 Fit a new fi 3! filter into the retaining bracket switched off. If the oil is checked immediately
All other engine codes and tighten th securing bolts. after driving the car, some of the oil will
4 Push the 3 retaining clips apart slightly and 8 Refit the cc itrol valve to the top of the filter remain distributed around the transmission
lift the filter element a little from the bracket and insert the retaining clip. components, resulting in an inaccurate level
reading.
(see illustration). All engin codes 2 As applicable, undo the retaining bolts and
5 At the top of the filter unit, release the clip
and lift out the control valve, leaving the fuel 9 Reconnec the fuel supply and delivery remove the engine undershield(s). Wipe clean
hoses attached to it (see illustration). hoses, using le notes made during removal - the area around the transmission filler/level
note the fuel low arrow markings next to each plug which is situated on the front, left-hand
port. Where |rimp-type hoses were originally end of the transmission (see illustration).
fitted, use e livalent size worm-drive clips on Note: On the 6-speed transmission, a new
ve the collecting container and sealing washer will be needed for refitting.
rags. 3 On the 6-speed transmissions, to unscrew
10 Start an run the engine at idle, then the filler/level plug, a special multi-splined
check arour the fuel filter for fuel leaks. key will be needed (Seat tool number T20118,
though alternatives may be available). Since
the plug will almost certainly be very tight,
badly-fitting substitute tools are unlikely to
work, and damage may be caused to the
plug's splines.
4 The 5-speed transmission has a hex
fitting on its filler/level plug, which means
it can be unscrewed with a large Allen key
or bit (see illustration). Ensure that the tool
used is a good fit in the plug, and take care
when loosening to avoid personal injury from
surrounding components, as the plug will be
tight.
25.2 Manual transmission oil filler/level 25.4 On the 02R transmission, an Allen key 5 The oil level should reach the lower edge
plug location (arrowed) or bit is eeded on the filler/level plug of the filler/level hole. A certain amount of
Every 20 000 miles - diesel models IB< 13
oil will have gathered behind the filler/level level will be correct when the flow ceases; use 7 When the oil level is correct, refit the filler/
plug, and will trickle out when it is removed; only good-quality oil of the specified type. level plug and tighten it to the specified
this does not necessarily indicate that the 6 If the transmission has been overfilled so torque (on the 6-speed transmission, fit a new
level is correct. To ensure that a true level is that oil flows out when the filler/level plug is sealing washer). Wipe off any spilt oil then
established, wait until the initial trickle has removed, check that the car is completely level refit the engine undershield(s), tighten the
stopped, then add oil as necessary until a (front-to-rear and side-to-side), and allow the retaining bolts securely, and lower the car to
trickle of new oil can be seen emerging. The surplus to drain off into a suitable container. the ground.

Every 40 OOP miles or 4 years
minimum level mark, add the specified fluid as
26 Air filter element renewal necessary (see Lubricants and fluids), but in 28 Timing belt and
this case also check the system for leaks (see tensioning roller renewal
illustration). On completion, screw on the cap
and tighten. Refit the battery and tray where
1 The air filter is housed in the air cleaner, removed. Refer to Chapter 2C.
which is situated on the left-hand side of the
inner wing, behind the battery.
2 Undo the four bolts and lift the cover from
the top of the air cleaner body (see illus-
tration).
3 Lift out the air filter element (see illustration).
4 Remove any debris that may have collected
inside the air cleaner.
5 Fit a new air filter element in position,
ensuring that the edges are securely seated.
6 Refit the air cleaner top cover and secure
with the four bolts.

27 Power steering hydraulic
fluid level check 26.2 Remove the cover 26.3 . . . and lift out the air filter element

1 Turn the front roadwheels to the straight-
ahead position without starting the engine.
If the car has been left standing for an hour
or more, the power steering fluid will be cold
(below 50°C), and the 'cold' level markings
must be used. If, however, the engine is at
normal temperature (above 50°C), the fluid will
be hot, and the 'hot' level markings must be
used. MAX
2 The reservoir for the Electrically Powered
Hydraulic Steering (EPHS) is located on
MIN
the front left-hand corner of the engine
compartment. Note: On some models with 27.2 Unscrew the cap from the hydraulic 27.3a The power steering fluid level must
a high capacity battery, the battery and tray fluid reservoir be between the upper and lower marks
must be removed in order to access the
reservoir filler cap. The fluid level is checked
with the dipstick attached to the reservoir filler
cap. Unscrew the cap from the hydraulic fluid
reservoir, and wipe clean the integral dipstick
with a clean cloth (see illustration).
3 Screw on the cap hand-tight, then unscrew
it again and check the fluid level on the
dipstick. The fluid level must be between the
MIN (or lower) and MAX (or upper) marks (see
illustrations). If the fluid is cold (below 50°C),
it must be at least above the lower level mark
or MIN. If the fluid is hot (above 50°C), it must
not be above the upper level mark or MAX.
4 If the level is above the maximum level mark, 27.3b Alternative power steering cap 27.4 Top-up the fluid level
siphon off the excess amount. If it is below the markings
1B*14 Maintenance procedures - diesel models
Every 80 OOP miles - engine code BMT
Every 100 000 miles - end ne code BMS
Note: On/y 7.4 litre engine code BMS, and only be carried out using dedicated diagnostic
29 Particulate filter check 1.9 litre ermine code BMT are fitted with equipment. Consequently, we recommend this
exhaust paraculate filters. task be entrusted to a Seat dealer or suitably-
At approximately these mileages the equipped specialist. If the capacity of the filter
remaining dapacity of the particulate filter to absorb ash is exhausted, a new filter must
should be hecked. Unfortunately, this can be fitted as described in Chapter 4C.

Every 2 years
attracted by its sweet smell, but antifreeze
30 Brake (and clutch) Old hydraulic fluid is often can be fatal if ingested.
fluid renewal much darker in colour than
HilUT the new, making it easy to Cooling system draining
distinguish the two. 1 With the engine completely cold, unscrew
Warning: Brake hydraulic fluid the expansion tank cap.
4 Work thro gh all the remaining bleed screws 2 Firmly apply the handbrake then jack up the
can harm your eyes and damage
in the sequ< nee until new fluid can be seen front of the car and support it on axle stands
painted surfaces, so use extreme
at all of thei i. Be careful to keep the master (see Jacking and vehicle support). Undo
caution when handling and pouring it. Do
cylinder res« voir topped-up to above the MIN the retaining bolts and remove the engine
not use fluid that has been standing open
level at all ti nes, or air may enter the system undershield(s) to gain access to the base of
for some time, as it absorbs moisture
and greatly i crease the length of the task. the radiator.
from the air. Excess moisture can cause a
5 When the >peration is complete, check that 3 Position a suitable container beneath the
dangerous loss of braking effectiveness.
all bleed sc 3ws are securely tightened, and coolant drain plug which is located in the
1 The procedure is similar to that for the
that their di 3t caps are refitted. Wash off all bottom hose fitting to the left-hand bottom
bleeding of the hydraulic system as described
traces of sp It fluid, and recheck the master end of the radiator. Unscrew the drain plug
in Chapter 9, except that the brake fluid
cylinder rese voir fluid level. and pull it out slightly (there is no need to
reservoir should be emptied by siphoning,
6 Once the irake fluid has been changed the remove it completely) and allow the coolant
using a clean poultry baster or similar before
clutch fluid s lould also be renewed. Referring to drain into the container (see illustration). If
starting, and allowance should be made for
to Chapter € , bleed the clutch until new fluid desired, a length of tubing can be fitted to the
the old fluid to be expelled when bleeding a
is seen to be emerging from the slave cylinder drain outlet to direct the flow of coolant during
section of the circuit. Since the clutch hydraulic
bleed screw keeping the master cylinder fluid draining. Where no drain outlet is fitted to the
system also uses fluid from the brake system
level above he MIN level line at all times to hose end fitting, remove the retaining clip and
reservoir, it should also be bled at the same
prevent air jntering the system. Once the disconnect the bottom hose from the radiator
time by referring to Chapter 6, Section 2.
new fluid € merges, securely tighten the to drain the coolant (see Chapter 3).
2 Working as described in Chapter 9, open
bleed screw then disconnect and remove the 4 On engines with an oil cooler, to fully drain
the first bleed screw in the sequence, and
bleeding eq ipment. Securely refit the dust the system, also disconnect one of the coolant
pump the brake pedal gently until nearly all
cap then was h off all traces of spilt fluid. hoses from the oil cooler which is located at
the old fluid has been emptied from the master
cylinder reservoir. 7 Ensure th master cylinder fluid level is the front of the cylinder block.
correct (see Weekly checks) and thoroughly 5 If the coolant has been drained for a reason
3 Top-up to the MAX level with new fluid,
check the of eration of the brakes and clutch other than renewal, then provided it is clean, it
and continue pumping until only the new fluid
before takinc the car on the road. can be re-used.
remains in the reservoir, and new fluid can be
seen emerging from the bleed screw. Tighten 6 Once all the coolant has drained, securely
the screw, and top the reservoir level up to the 31 Coolant renewal <Sv tighten the drain plug or reconnect the bottom
MAX level line. hose to the radiator (as applicable). Where
necessary, also reconnect the coolant hose to
the oil cooler and secure it in position with the
Note: This work is not included in the Seat retaining clip. Refit the undershield(s), tighten
schedule, arrd should not be required if the the retaining bolts securely.
recommends d Seat G12 coolant antifreeze/ Cooling system flushing
inhibitor is used. However, if standard
antifreeze/in)' bitor is used, the work should be 7 If the recommended Seat coolant has not
carried out a\ the
antifr
recommended interval. been used and coolant renewal has been
Wa\ Wait until the engine neglected, or if the antifreeze mixture has
sold before starting this become diluted, the cooling system may
pro :edure. Do not allow antifreeze gradually lose efficiency, as the coolant
to come in < ontact with your skin, or with passages become restricted due to rust, scale
the car's pa ited surfaces. Rinse off spills deposits, and other sediment. The cooling
with plenty of water. Never system efficiency can be restored by flushing
31.3 Unscrew the radiator drain plug eze lying around in an open the system clean.
and allow the coolant to drain into the container, 01 in a puddle in the driveway or 8 The radiator should be flushed separately
container on the garai e floor. Children and pets are from the engine, to avoid excess contamination.
Every 2 years - diesel models IB-IS
Radiator flushing from the temperature sensor hole, then refit
9 To flush the radiator, first tighten the radiator the sensor immediately with reference to
drain plug. Chapter 3. Continue to fill the system until
10 Disconnect the top and bottom hoses and the level is up to the MAX level mark on the
any other relevant hoses from the radiator (see expansion tank. Help to bleed the air from the
Chapter 3). system by repeatedly squeezing the radiator
11 Insert a garden hose into the radiator top bottom hose.
inlet. Direct a flow of clean water through the 19 Refit the cap to the expansion tank, then
radiator, and continue flushing until clean run the engine at a fast idle speed until the
water emerges from the radiator bottom cooling fan cuts in. Wait for the fan to stop
outlet. then switch the engine off and allow the
12 If after a reasonable period, the water still engine to cool.
does not run clear, the radiator can be flushed 20 When the engine has cooled, check the
coolant level with reference to Weekly checks. 31.18 Fill the cooling system
with a good proprietary cleaning agent. It is
important that the manufacturer's instructions Top-up the level if necessary, and refit the
are followed carefully. If the contamination is expansion tank cap. not occur previously, then the fault is almost
particularly bad, insert the hose in the radiator certainly due to trapped air at some point in
Antifreeze mixture the system, causing an airlock and restricting
bottom outlet, and reverse-flush the radiator.
21 If the recommended Seat coolant is not the flow of coolant; usually, the air is trapped
Engine flushing being used, the antifreeze should always be because the system was refilled too quickly.
13 To flush the engine, remove the thermostat renewed at the specified intervals. This is 27 If an airlock is suspected, first try gently
(see Chapter 3). necessary not only to maintain the antifreeze squeezing all visible coolant hoses. A coolant
14 With the bottom hose disconnected properties, but also to prevent corrosion hose which is full of air feels quite different
from the radiator, insert a garden hose into which would otherwise occur as the corrosion to one full of coolant when squeezed. After
the thermostat housing. Direct a clean flow inhibitors become progressively less effective. refilling the system, most airlocks will clear
of water through the engine, and continue 22 Always use an ethylene-glycol based once the system has cooled, and been
flushing until clean water emerges from the antifreeze which is suitable for use in topped-up.
radiator bottom hose. mixed-metal cooling systems. The quantity 28 While the engine is running at operating
15 When flushing is complete, refit the of antifreeze and levels of protection are temperature, switch on the heater and heater
thermostat and reconnect the hoses (see indicated in the Specifications. fan, and check for heat output. Provided there
Chapter 3). 23 Before adding antifreeze, the cooling is sufficient coolant in the system, any lack of
system should be completely drained, heat output could be due to an airlock in the
Cooling system filling preferably flushed, and all hoses checked for system.
16 Before attempting to fill the cooling condition and security. 29 Airlocks can have more serious effects
system, ensure the drain plug is securely 24 After filling with antifreeze, a label should than simply reducing heater output - a severe
closed and make sure that all hoses are be attached to the expansion tank, stating the airlock could reduce coolant flow around the
securely connected and their retaining clips type and concentration of antifreeze used, and engine. Check that the radiator top hose is hot
are in good condition. If the recommended the date installed. Any subsequent topping-up when the engine is at operating temperature -
Seat coolant is not being used, ensure that should be made with the same type and a top hose which stays cold could be the result
a suitable antifreeze mixture is used all year concentration of antifreeze. of an airlock (or a non-opening thermostat).
round, to prevent corrosion of the engine 25 Do not use engine antifreeze in the 30 If the problem persists, stop the engine
components (see following sub-Section). windscreen/tailgate washer system, as it will and allow it to cool down completely before
17 Remove the coolant temperature sensor damage the paintwork. A screenwash additive unscrewing the expansion tank filler cap or
from the coolant distribution housing on should be added to the washer system in the loosening the hose clips and squeezing the
the left-hand end of the cylinder head with quantities stated on the bottle. hoses to bleed out the trapped air. In the
reference to Chapter 3. worst case, the system will have to be at least
18 Remove the expansion tank filler cap Airlocks partially drained (this time, the coolant can
and slowly fill the system with coolant (see 26 If, after draining and refilling the system, be saved for re-use) and flushed to clear the
illustration), until bubble-free coolant runs symptoms of overheating are found which did problem.
Notes
1B«16
2A*1

Chapter 2 Part A:
1.2 litre petrol engine in-car repair procedures
Contents Section number Section number
Camshafts and hydraulic tappets - removal, inspection and Engine/transmission mountings - inspection and renewal 14
refitting 7 Flywheel - removal, inspection and refitting 13
Compression test - description and interpretation 2 General information 1
Crankshaft oil seals - renewal 12 Oil pressure warning light switch - removal and refitting 11
Crankshaft pulley - removal and refitting 4 Oil pump, drive chain and sprockets - removal, inspection and
Cylinder head - removal, inspection and refitting 8 refitting 10
Engine assembly and valve timing marks - general information and Sump - removal and refitting 9
usage 3 Timing chain, tensioner and sprockets - removal, inspection and
Engine oil and filter renewal See Chapter 1A refitting 6
Engine oil level check See Weekly checks Timing cover - removal and refitting 5

Degrees of difficulty
Easy, suitable for Fairly easy, suitable Fairly difficult, Difficult, suitable Very difficult,
novice with little for beginner with suitable for competent *S» for experienced DIY suitable for expert
experience some experience DIY mechanic 3 mechanic DIY or professional

Specifications
General
Type Three-cylinder in-line, chain-driven double overhead camshaft (DOHC),
four-stroke, liquid-cooled
Cubic capacity 1198 cc
Manufacturer's engine codes* AZQ, BME and BXV
Maximum power output:
AZQ and BME 47 kW at 5400 rpm
BXV 51 kW at 5400 rpm
Maximum torque output 112 Nm at 3000 rpm
Bore 76.5 mm
Stroke 86.9 mm
Compression ratio 10.5 : 1
Compression pressures:
New engine pressure 10 to 15 bar
Minimum compression pressure 7.0 bar
Maximum difference between cylinders Approximately 3.0 bar
Firing order 1-2-3
No 1 cylinder location Crankshaft pulley end
Direction of crankshaft rotation Clockwise (when viewed from right-hand side of car)
* Note: See Vehicle identification' at the end of this manual for the location of engine code markings.
Lubrication system
Oil pump type Chain-driven from crankshaft
Minimum oil pressure (oil temperature 80°C) at 2000 rpm 2.0 bar
Camshaft
Camshaft endfloat (maximum) 0.20 mm
2A»2 1.2 litre petrol engine in-car repair proce< ures

Torque wrench settings Mm ibf ft
Air conditioning compressor 23 17
Auxiliary drivebelt tensioner and guide pulley J. . . . 40 30
Camshaft bearing caps:
Stage 1 10 7
Stage 2 Angle-tighten a further 90°
Camshaft position sensor 8 6
Camshaft sprocket:
Stage 1 20 15
Stage 2 Angle-tighten by 90°
Coolant pump pulley 22 16
Crankshaft pulley:*
Stage 1 90 66
Stage 2 Angle-tighten a further 90°
Cylinder head bolts:*
Stage 1 30 22
Stage 2 Angle-tighten a further 90°
Stage 3 Angle-tighten a further 90°
Cylinder head cover/housing:
Stage 1 10 7
Stage 2 Angle-tighten a further 90°
Engine lifting eye 20 15
Flywheel bolts:*
Stage 1 60 44
Stage 2 Angle-tighten a further 90°
Left-hand engine mounting:*
Mounting to body:
Stage 1 50 37
Stage 2 Angle-tighten a further 90°
Mounting to transmission:
Stage 1 40 30
Stage 2 Angle-tighten a further 90°
Oil filter cap 25 18
Oil filter housing 24 18
Oil level and temperature sender 8 6
Oil pressure switch 25 18
Oil pump 24 18
Oil pump chain tensioner 15 11
Oil pump sprocket:*
Stage 1 20 15
Stage 2 Angle-tighten a further 90°
Rear mounting link:*
To transmission:
Stage 1 30 22
Stage 2 Angle-tighten a further 90°
To subframe:
Stage 1 40 30
Stage 2 Angle-tighten a further 90°
Right-hand engine mounting:*
Pedestal to engine 45 33
Mounting to body:
Stage 1 20 15
Stage 2 Angle-tighten a further 90°
Intermediate bracket to pedestal:
Stage 1 | 30 22
Stage 2 Angle-tighten a further 90°
Sump bolts J 9 7
Sump oil drain plug 30 22
Timing chain guide 15 11
Timing chain hydraulic tensioner 15 11
Timing cover (see illustration 5.19):
Bolts 1, 2 and 3 50 37
Bolts 4 and 5 I 25 18
Bolts 6, 7, 8, 11 and 14, and all other bolts:
Stage 1 8 6
Stage 2 I Angle-tighten a further 90°
Timing chain tensioner guide pivot H 18 13
* Do not re-use
1.2 litre petrol engine in-car repair procedures 2A«3

externally-mounted filter to the various engine or a blown head gasket (a cracked head could
1 General information components. also be the cause).
10 If the pressure in any cylinder is reduced
Repairs with engine in car to 7.0 bars or less, carry out the following test
The following work can be carried out with to isolate the cause. Introduce a teaspoonful
the engine in the car: of clean oil into that cylinder through its spark
How to use this Chapter a) Compression pressure - testing. plug hole and repeat the test.
This Part of Chapter 2 describes those repair b) Crankshaft pulley - removal and refitting. 11 If the addition of oil temporarily improves
procedures that can reasonably be carried out c) Timing cover - removal and refitting. the compression pressure, this indicates that
on the engine while it remains in the car. If the d) Timing chain - renewal. bore or piston wear is responsible for the
engine has been removed from the car and is e) Timing chain tensioner and sprockets - pressure loss. No improvement suggests
being dismantled, as described in Part D, any removal and refitting. that leaking or burnt valves, or a blown head
preliminary dismantling procedures can be f) Camshaft(s) and hydraulic tappets - gasket, may be to blame.
ignored. removal and refitting. 12 A low reading from two adjacent cylinders
Note that while it may be possible physically g) Cylinder head - removal and refitting*, is almost certainly due to the head gasket
to overhaul certain items while the engine is in h) Cylinder head - decarbonising. having blown between them; the presence of
the car, such tasks are not usually carried out i) Sump - removal and refitting. coolant in the engine oil will confirm this.
as separate operations, and usually require j) Oil pump - removal, overhaul and refitting. 13 If one cylinder is about 20 percent lower
the execution of several additional procedures k) Crankshaft oil seals - renewal. than the others and the engine has a slightly
(not to mention the cleaning of components I) Engine/transmission mountings - rough idle, a worn camshaft lobe could be the
and of oilways); for this reason, all such tasks inspection and renewal, cause.
are classed as major overhaul procedures, m) Flywheel - removal, inspection and 14 On completion of the test, refit the spark
and are described in Part D of this Chapter. refitting. plugs, and refit the injectors fuse.
Caution: The pistons, connecting rods * Cylinder head dismantling procedures are
and crankshaft must not be removed detailed in Chapter 2D. 3 Engine assembly |k
on these engines. If these components and valve timing marks -
are excessively worn or damaged, the 2 Compression test - general information and usage SN
complete cylinder block and pistons must description and interpretation lg>
be renewed as an assembly.
Note: Seat TDC setting tools T10123 and
Part D describes the removal of the engine/
T10121 will be required for this procedure.
transmission from the car and the full overhaul
1 When engine performance is down, or if Alternatively, setting tools may be obtained
procedures that can then be carried out.
misfiring occurs which cannot be attributed from automotive tool manufacturers/suppliers.
Engine description to the ignition or fuel systems, a compression 1 Top dead centre (TDC) is the highest point
The engine is an in-line three-cylinder unit, test can provide diagnostic clues as to the in its travel up-and-down its cylinder bore that
engine's condition. If the test is performed each piston reaches as the crankshaft rotates.
which is mounted transversely at the front of the
regularly, it can give warning of trouble before While each piston reaches TDC both at the top
car, with the manual transmission bolted to the
any other symptoms become apparent. of the compression stroke and again at the top
left-hand end of the engine. Note: This engine
2 The engine must be fully warmed-up to of the exhaust stroke, for the purpose of timing
is not available with automatic transmission.
normal operating temperature, the battery the engine, TDC refers to the No 1 piston
The engine is equipped with double
must be fully-charged, and the spark plugs position at the top of its compression stroke.
overhead camshafts (DOHC, 12-valve), and
must be removed (Chapter 1A). The aid of an 2 No 1 piston and cylinder are at the
incorporates a gear-driven balance shaft.
assistant will also be required. right-hand end of the engine. Note that the
Caution: It is not permitted to dismantle
3 Remove fuse 25 from the fusebox. This is crankshaft rotates clockwise when viewed
the balance shaft and gears.
the fuse for the fuel injectors. from the right-hand side of the car.
The cylinder block, cylinder head and valve
4 Fit a compression tester to the No 1 cylinder 3 Disconnect the battery negative lead (see
cover are all cast in aluminium alloy. The
spark plug hole - the type of tester which Chapter 5A). Remove all the spark plugs as
cylinder bores are machined in the cylinder
screws into the plug thread is to be preferred. described in Chapter 1A.
block. The crankshaft has four main bearings,
5 Have the assistant hold the throttle wide 4 At the left-hand end of the cylinder head,
and thrustwashers are fitted to number 3
open and crank the engine on the starter unbolt the caps from the ends of the intake
main bearing to control crankshaft endfloat. A
motor; after one or two revolutions, the and exhaust camshafts. Note: New O-rings
balance shaft is located in a housing beneath
compression pressure should build-up to a must be fitted before refitting the caps (see
the cylinder block, and is driven by a gear
maximum figure and then stabilise. Record illustration).
located on the end of the crankshaft.
Camshaft drive is by chain from the the highest reading obtained.
crankshaft, and the chain is tensioned by a 6 Repeat the test on the remaining cylinders,
hydraulic tensioner. The valves are closed recording the pressure in each.
by coil springs and the camshafts actuate 7 All cylinders should produce very similar
the valves by roller rockers and hydraulic pressures (see Specifications). Any one cylinder
tappets. The flywheel is located on a flange at reading below 7.0 bar, or a difference of more
the left-hand end of the crankshaft. The main than 3 bar between cylinders, suggests a fault.
bearings and the big-end bearings are of shell 8 Note that the compression should build-up
type, whilst the connecting rod small-end quickly in a healthy engine; low compression
bearings are of the bronze bush type, being on the first stroke, followed by gradually
pressed into the connecting rod and reamed increasing pressure on successive strokes,
to suit. indicates worn piston rings.
The oil pump is chain-driven from the end 9 A low compression reading on the first
of the crankshaft. Oil is drawn from the sump stroke, which does not build-up during 3.4 Fit new O-rings before refitting the
through a strainer and circulated through an successive strokes, indicates leaking valves camshaft end caps
2A»4 1.2 litre petrol engine in-car repair proc jd u res

cylinder is on its compression stroke, remove
the TDC tools and turn the engine back a little
from the position described in paragraph 6.
Now turn the engine forwards again to TDC
with a finger placed over No 1 spark plug
hole. If No 1 piston is rising on a compression
stroke, pressure will be felt building-up as the
engine is turned forwards to TDC.
8 Once No 1 cylinder has been positioned at
TDC on the compression stroke, TDC for any
of the other cylinders can then be located by
rotating the crankshaft clockwise 240° at a time
and following the firing order (see Specifications).
3.6a Fit the camshaft TDC tools . . . 3.6b . . . ai d tighten the bolts (arrowed)
4 Crankshaft pulley -
removal and refitting

Removal
1 Pull up and remove the engine top cover
and air filter (see illustration). Disconnect the
vent hose as the cover is removed.
2 Raise the front of the vehicle and support
it securely on axle stands (see Jacking and
vehicle support). Undo the fasteners, remove
the engine undershield and right-hand wheel
arch liner (see illustration).
3.6c Crankshaft TDC tool 3.6d Grant shaft TDC tool fitted through 3 Mark the auxiliary drivebelt for normal
the cj inder block rear flange rotation to ensure correct refitting. Note the
5 Unbolt the crankshaft position/speed the camshaft and secure with the bolts. The routing of the drivebelt for ease of refitting.
sender from the cylinder block rear flange. engine is nov at TDC compression for No 1 4 Lever off the cover from the centre of the
6 Turn the engine with a socket on the cylinder and he remaining TDC tool can be drivebelt tensioner roller, then use a Torx key to
crankshaft pulley bolt until the grooves at inserted through the cylinder block rear flange turn the tensioner anti-clockwise to the stop.
the left-hand ends of the camshafts are both into the hole i the flywheel (see illustrations). Hold the tensioner in this position and remove
horizontal. Now insert the tools T10123 into 7 If necessaHV, as a further check that No 1 the drivebelt from the pulleys. Release the
tensioner or, if preferred, retain the tensioner
in this position by inserting a suitable pin/drill
bit through the hole provided.
5 Have an assistant engage 4th gear and
apply firm pressure to the footbrake pedal,
then loosen the crankshaft pulley bolt and
remove it together with the pulley (see
illustrations). Seat state that the bolt must be
renewed whenever removed.
Refitting
6 Locate the pulley and new bolt on the end of
the crankshaft, then tighten it to the specified
torque and angle while holding it stationary
4.1 Pull the engine top cover/air filter 4.2 Undo th bolts (arrowed) and remove using the method for removal (see illustration).
housing upwards from the rubber mountings the ingine undershield 7 Locate the auxiliary drivebelt on the pulleys

4.5a Unscrew the crankshaft pulley emove the crankshaft pulley 4.6 Angle-tightening the crankshaft pulley
bolt.. bolt
1.2 litre petrol engine in-car repair procedures 2A»5

5.3 Insert a suitable pin/drill bit (arrowed) 5.9a Unscrew the crankshaft pulley 5.9b . . . and remove it together with the
to retain the auxiliary drivebelt tensioner bolt.. pulley

5.1 Oa Undo the bolts . .. 5.1 Ob . . . and remove the sump 5.11 Remove the oil level dipstick tube
mounting bolt
while holding the tensioner against the spring using an oil filter strap or similar tool, then 10 Remove the sump as described in Sec-
pressure, then release the tensioner making unscrew the retaining bolts and remove the tion 9. If necessary, remove the exhaust front
sure that the ribs of the drivebelt locate pulley from the drive flange. pipe as described in Chapter 4C to provide
correctly in the pulley grooves. Refit the cover 5 On models with air conditioning, unbolt additional working space (see illustrations).
to the centre of the tensioner roller. the auxiliary drivebelt guide pulley from the 11 Unbolt and remove the oil level dipstick
8 Refit the engine undershield and lower the cylinder block, then unbolt the compressor and tube (see illustration) and, where applicable,
vehicle to the ground. suspend it from the vehicle bodywork. There is remove the oil level/temperature sender from
9 Refit the engine top cover and air filter as no need to disconnect the refrigerant pipes. the cylinder block.
applicable. 6 Unbolt the auxiliary drivebelt tensioner and 12 The right-hand end of the engine must
pulley from the cylinder block. now be supported while the engine mounting
5 Timing cover - 7 Remove the alternator as described in is removed, and the engine then held in a safe
removal and refitting Chapter 5A. position in order to carry out the remaining work.
8 Unclip the coolant expansion tank purge To do this, use a hoist or support bar attached
hose, and place it to one side. to the engine lifting eyes - this is preferable to
9 Have an assistant engage 4th gear and apply using a trolley jack beneath the engine (see
Removal firm pressure to the footbrake pedal, then use a illustration). With the engine supported, remove
1 Pull up and remove the engine top cover multi-splined key to loosen the crankshaft pulley the right-hand engine mounting with reference
and air filter (see illustration 4.1). Disconnect bolt and remove it together with the pulley. to Section 14.
the vent hose as the cover is removed. Alternatively, use a home-made tool to retain 13 Unbolt the PCV valve (crankcase ventil-
2 Apply the handbrake, then jack up the front of the pulley (see illustrations). Seat state that the ation) from the timing cover and recover the
the car and support it on axle stands (see Jacking bolt must be renewed whenever removed. O-ring (see illustration).
and vehicle support). Remove the right-hand
front roadwheel. Undo the fasteners, remove
the engine undershield and the right-hand front
wheel arch liner (see illustrations 4.2).
3 Mark the auxiliary drivebelt for direction
of rotation to ensure correct refitting. Lever
off the cover from the centre of the drivebelt
tensioner roller, then use a Torx key to turn
the tensioner anti-clockwise to the stop. Hold
the tensioner in this position and remove
the drivebelt from the pulleys. Release the
tensioner or, if preferred, retain the tensioner in
this position by inserting a suitable pin/drill bit
through the hole provided (see illustration). 5.12 Engine support bar attached to the 5.13 Remove the PCV valve (crankcase
4 Hold the coolant pump pulley stationary right-hand end of the engine ventilation) from the timing cover
2A»6 1.2 litre petrol engine in-car repair procedures

14 Progressively unscrew and remove all of
the retaining bolts, then remove the timing
cover from the engine. If necessary, tap the
cover lightly to release the sealant, then
withdraw the cover from the location dowels
(see illustrations).
15 With the cover removed, slide the sleeve
and O-ring from the end of the crankshaft.
Note: This is necessary as the sleeve must be
assembled onto the crankshaft after refitting
the timing cover.
16 If the timing cover has been removed in
order to carry out other work (ie, timing chain
5.14a Remove the timing cover 5.14b If Necessary, unscrew the bolts or cylinder head removal), the pistons must be
(arrowed)... positioned away from their TDC positions as a
precaution against them touching the valves.
To do this, temporarily refit the crankshaft
pulley, then insert and tighten the crankshaft
pulley bolt, using the TDC locking tool to hold
the crankshaft stationary. Now, remove the
locking tool and turn the crankshaft 45° anti-
clockwise.
Refitting
17 Before refitting, carefully clean away all
residues of sealant from the cover and engine.
Also, check that the cover M6 retaining bolts
still have thread sealant on their threads, and
if not, renew them.
5.14c . . . and remove the oil separator 5.18a Apply the sealant to the timing cover 18 Apply a 3.0 mm diameter bead of sealant
from the tinning cover to the inside of the cover, making sure that the

5.18b Apply a bead of sealant as shown
A 3.0 mm bead C Joint between cylinder
B Location dowels block and head 5.19 Timing chain cover bolt tightening sequence
1.2 litre petrol engine in-car repair procedures 2A«7

6.3 Insert a 3.0 mm diameter drill bit 6.4a Hold the sprocket while loosening the 6.4b . . . then remove the bolt and
(arrowed) in the hole to retain the timing bolt... sprocket
chain tensioner piston
bead is on the inside of the bolt holes (see 5 Unbolt the plastic cover from the oil pump, the sprocket teeth for wear. If the engine
illustrations). Do not forget the upper and hold the sprocket stationary and unscrew has covered a high mileage, the chain and
lower centre holes. Note: The timing cover the retaining bolt - discard the bolt as a sprockets should be renewed as a matter of
must be refitted within 15 minutes of applying new one must be used on refitting. Slide the course.
the sealant to the cylinder head. Apply a little small sprocket from the end of the crankshaft 9 The crankshaft pulley bolt must be renewed
sealant to the joint between the cylinder head and place the chain and sprockets to one whenever removed.
and block on the engine, at the front and rear side. Note: The sprocket is not keyed to the
points where the cover makes contact. crankshaft. Refitting
19 Carefully locate the timing cover on the 6 Slide the crankshaft sprocket together with 10 Check that the camshafts are still
engine, insert the bolts, and progressively the timing chain from the crankshaft (see positioned at TDC with the locking tools fitted
tighten them to the specified torque in illustration). Note: The sprocket is keyed to and the retaining bolts tightened. No 1 piston
sequence (see illustration). the crankshaft. should still be positioned before TDC (see
20 Refit the sleeve to the end of the crankshaft 7 Slide the tensioner rail from its upper pivot. Section 5).
together with a new O-ring. Seat state that If necessary, unbolt the remaining guide rail 11 Slide the tensioner rail onto its upper pivot.
the cover oil seal must not be lubricated with and hydraulic tensioner from the cylinder Refit the guide rail and hydraulic tensioner,
either oil or grease. block (see illustrations). and tighten the mounting bolts to the specified
21 The remainder of refitting is a reversal of torque.
removal, remembering to tighten all fasteners
Inspection 12 Engage the crankshaft sprocket in the
to their specified torque, where given. 8 Thoroughly clean all components, then timing chain and locate the sprocket on
examine the timing chain and oil pump the end of the crankshaft, making sure it is
6 Timing chain, tensioner |k drive chain for excessive wear. Also check engaged with the groove.
and sprockets - removal, ^
inspection and refitting ^

Removal
1 Set the engine to TDC as described in
Section 3 and insert the locking tools.
2 Remove the timing cover as described in
Section 5 and position No 1 piston/crankshaft
45° anti-clockwise from its TDC position.
3 The timing chain tensioner rail must now
be released from the chain, and the hydraulic
tensioner locked. To do this, press the lower 6.6 Remove the timing chain sprocket 6.7a Slide the tensioner rail from its upper
end of the rail rearwards so that it forces the from the crankshaft pivot...
piston into the hydraulic tensioner, then insert
a suitable 3.0 mm diameter tool through
the holes provided to retain the piston (see
illustration).
4 Identify the intake and exhaust camshaft
sprockets for position, then unscrew and
remove their retaining bolts and withdraw
the sprockets, at the same time disengaging
them from the timing chain. Seat state that it
is in order to use their TDC tool to hold the
camshafts stationary while loosening the
sprocket retaining bolt, however, if pattern
tools are used, we recommend that a sprocket
retaining tool be made out of a length of metal
bar, with two long bolts positioned to engage 6.7b . . . then unbolt the remaining guide 6.7c Remove the timing chain tensioner
the holes in the sprocket (see illustrations). rail
2A»8 1.2 litre petrol engine in-car repair procedures

7 Camshafts and
hydraulic tappets - removal, ^
inspection and refitting ^

Removal
1 Remove the timing cover as described in
Section 5.
2 Remove the camshaft sprockets as
described in Section 6.
3 Remove the ignition coils with the power
output stage. Note that Seat technicians use
6.18 Balance shaft gear alignment indents 6.19 Mark the bolt and sprocket to apply a special tool (T10094) to remove the coils,
(arrowed) tne tightening angle however, a length of bent welding rod or
13 Engage the oil pump drive sprocket (small) the locking tn>ol through the cylinder block similar hooked under the wiring plugs, may be
with the drive chain, then locate the sprocket rear flange into the flywheel - note that the used to extract the coils.
on the end of the crankshaft. Engage the large crankshaft sNpuld be turned slowly to the TDC 4 Unscrew the cylinder head cover bolts in
sprocket in the chain, position the sprocket on position; if it IB turned too far, turn it back and the reverse order to that shown for tightening
the oil pump and screw on the new retaining start again. Tine indents on the balance shaft in paragraph 25, and remove them (see
bolt. Tighten the bolt to the specified torque gears must also be aligned with each other illustration).
while holding the sprocket stationary. (see illustration). 5 Remove the cylinder head cover complete
14 Refit the oil pump plastic cover and tighten 19 Apply sight anti-clockwise pressure with camshafts from the cylinder head (see
the bolts. to the camshaft sprocket with the holding illustration). If it is tight, use a mallet or rubber
15 Refit the sump with reference to Section 9. tool (paragraph 4), then tighten the retaining hammer to tap the top of the cover in several
16 Clean the contact surfaces of the camshafts bolt to the torque and angle given in the places in order to release it from the locating
and sprockets and engage the sprockets with Specificatiotns. The angle-tightening can be dowels.
the timing chain. Locate the sprockets on the made by marking the bolt and sprocket with 6 Clean away the sealant from the cylinder
end of the camshafts and insert the retaining dabs of painn (see illustration). head and cover.
bolts, loosely at this stage so that the sprockets 20 Turn thai engine through two complete 7 With the cylinder head cover on the bench,
can move freely on the locked camshafts. revolutions, then check that the TDC tools loosen the camshaft bearing cap/housing
17 Press the lower end of the timing chain can be fittem to the camshaft and flywheel. bolts in the reverse order to that shown for
tensioner rail rearwards, remove the locking tool, Remove the tools. tightening in paragraph 20. Lift the caps/
and release the rail to tension the timing chain. 21 Unbolt and remove the crankshaft pulley housings from the cover (see illustration).
18 Turn the crankshaft slowly clockwise from the end of the crankshaft, then refit the Identify the caps/housings for location to
45° so that No 1 piston is at TDC, and insert timing cover with reference to Section 5. ensure correct refitting.
8 Identify each camshaft for location and
position, then lift them out from the cylinder
head cover (see illustration). Note: The
intake camshaft has a lug which is positioned
over the hole for the Hall sender.
9 Obtain a suitable box with compartments
for each of the roller/rocker arms and hydraulic
tappets, so that they can be identified for their
correct position. Remove the rocker arms and
hydraulic tappets from the cylinder head and
place them in the box (see illustrations).
10 Clean the camshaft bearing surfaces in
the cover and caps/housings.
7.4 Progressively unscrew the bolts md remove the cylinder head Inspect/on
complete with camshafts
11 Visually inspect the camshafts for

7.7 Remove the camshaft bearing caps 7.8 Remove the camshafts from the 7.9a Roller/rocker arms (arrowed)
cylinder head cover
1.2 litre petrol engine in-car repair procedures 2A»9

7.9b Remove the roller/rocker arms and 7.9c . . . and place them in the box 7.17 Fitting the roller/rocker arms and
hydraulic tappets from the cylinder head .. hydraulic tappets

H45842

7.20 Camshaft bearing cap/housing bolt tightening sequence 7.21 a Apply a bead of sealant as shown
evidence of wear on the surfaces of the lobes Specifications. Wear outside of this limit is 17 Lubricate the roller/rocker arms and
and journals. Normally their surfaces should unlikely to be confined to any one component, hydraulic tappets with engine oil and refit
be smooth and have a dull shine; look for so renewal of the camshaft and cover must be them to their correct positions on the cylinder
scoring, erosion or pitting, and areas that considered. head (see illustration).
appear highly polished, indicating excessive 15 Inspect the hydraulic tappets for obvious 18 Apply a film of grease to the camshaft
wear. Accelerated wear will occur once the signs of wear or damage, and renew if bearing surfaces in the caps/housings and
hardened exterior of the camshafts has been necessary. Check that the oil holes in the cover.
damaged, so always renew worn items. tappets are free from obstructions. 19 Carefully locate the camshafts in their
12 If the machined surfaces of the camshafts correct positions in the cover, noting that the
appear discoloured or blued, it is likely that Refitting lug on the intake camshaft must be positioned
they have been overheated at some point, 16 Remove the crankshaft TDC locking tool, over the hole for the Hall sender.
probably due to inadequate lubrication. then turn the engine anti-clockwise by 45° 20 Refit the bearing caps/housings and
13 To measure the camshaft endfloat, so that none of the pistons are at their TDC initially hand-tighten the retaining bolts. It
temporarily locate them on the cylinder head position. is important that the caps are not tilted as
without the rockers and hydraulic tappets, the bolts are tightened. Tighten the bolts in
and temporarily refit the caps. Anchor a DTI sequence (see illustration) to the torque and
gauge to the end of the cylinder head and angle given in the specifications.
align the gauge probe with the camshaft axis. 21 Apply a 2.0 to 3.0 mm wide bead of
Push the camshaft to one end of the cylinder sealant as shown (see illustrations) to the
head as far as it will travel, then rest the DTI cylinder head cover. Make sure that the
gauge probe on the end of the camshaft, and sealant is not allowed onto the camshaft
zero the gauge display. Push the camshaft as bearing surfaces, and make sure that the
far as it will go to the other end of the cylinder bead runs around the inside of the bolt
head, and record the gauge reading. Verify the holes. Note: The cylinder head cover must
reading by pushing the camshaft back to its be refitted within 15 minutes of applying the
original position and checking that the gauge sealant to the cylinder head.
indicates zero again. Repeat the checking 22 Check that the roller/rocker arms are
procedure for the remaining camshaft. correctly located on the valve stems and
14 Check that the camshaft endfloat 7.21 b Apply the sealant carefully to the hydraulic tappets.
measurement is within the limit given in the cylinder head cover 23 Lower the cover onto the cylinder head
2A»10 1.2 litre petrol engine in-car repair pr cedures

H45844

7.23 Refit the cylinder head cover 7.25 Cylinder head cover bolt tightening sequence

making sure that the location dowels enter necessary til remove the camshafts from the camshaft and crankshaft bearings. Using
their holes correctly (see illustration). cover unless it is required to work on them. adhesive tape and paper, seal the water, oil
24 Insert new retaining bolts and initially 6 Progress! rely slacken the cylinder head and bolt holes in the cylinder block. To prevent
hand-tighten all of them. bolts in the reverse order to that given for carbon entering the gap between the pistons
25 Tighten the retaining bolts to the specified tightening i paragraph 19. Remove the and bores, smear a little grease in the gap.
torque and angle given in the Specifications, cylinder hea i bolts. Note: The bolts must not After cleaning a piston, rotate the crankshaft
and in sequence (see illustration). be re-used - obtain new ones. to that the piston moves down the bore, then
26 Refit the ignition coils and power output 7 With all tr 3 bolts removed, lift the cylinder wipe out the grease and carbon with a cloth
stage, followed by the pipe sections. head from tl e block (see illustration). If the rag. Clean the other piston crowns in the same
27 Refit the camshaft sprockets (Section 6) cylinder hea11 is stuck, tap it with a soft-faced way.
and timing cover (Section 5). mallet to bre ik the joint. Do not insert a lever 13 Check the head and block for nicks,
into the gas!1 3t joint. deep scratches and other damage. If slight,
8 Cylinder head - |k 8 Lift the c ylinder head gasket from the they may be removed carefully with a file.
removal, inspection ^ block. More serious damage may be repaired by
machining, but this is a specialist job. If
and refitting ^ Inspectic r? warpage of the cylinder head is suspected,
9 Dismantlirjjg and inspection of the cylinder use a straight-edge to check it for distortion,
head is i d in Part D of this Chapter, as described in Part D of this Chapter.
Removal 10 The mat jig faces of the cylinder head and
1 Drain the cooling system as described in block must e perfectly clean before refitting Refitting
Chapter 1A. the head. 14 Ensure that the cylinder head bolt holes
2 Remove the timing cover as described in 11 Use a s ;raper to remove all traces of in the cylinder block are clean and free of oil.
Section 5. gasket and ;arbon, also clean the tops of Syringe or soak up any oil left in the bolt holes.
3 Remove the intake and exhaust manifolds as the pistons Take particular care with the This is most important in order that the correct
described in Chapter 4A and 4C respectively. aluminium s I•faces, as the soft metal is easily bolt tightening torque can be applied, and
4 Remove the camshaft sprockets as damaged. to prevent the possibility of the block being
described in Section 6. 12 Make s re that debris is not allowed cracked by hydraulic pressure when the bolts
5 Remove the cylinder head cover complete to enter the oil and water passages - this are tightened.
with camshafts, then remove the hydraulic is particularly important for the oil circuit, 15 Ensure that the crankshaft has been
tappets as described in Section 7. It is not as carbon c >uld block the oil supply to the turned to position No 1 piston slightly down
its bore from the TDC position (refer to timing
chain refitting in Section 6). This will eliminate
any risk of piston-to-valve contact as the
cylinder head is refitted.
16 Ensure that the cylinder head locating
dowels are in place in the cylinder block (see
illustration), then fit a new cylinder head
gasket over the dowels. Where applicable, the
part number marking should be uppermost
(see illustrations). Note that Seat recommend
that the gasket is only removed from its
packaging immediately prior to fitting.
17 Lower the cylinder head into position on
the gasket, ensuring that it engages correctly
8.7 Remove the cylinder head from the 8.16a Cylinder head locating dowel on the over the dowels (see illustration).
block block (arrowed) 18 Lightly oil the threads and heads of the
1.2 litre petrol engine in-car repair procedures 2A»11

8.16b Fit a new cylinder head gasket 8.16c Typical cylinder head gasket 8.17 Lower the cylinder head onto the
markings gasket
new cylinder head bolts, then insert them
and screw in as far as possible by hand (see
illustrations).
19 Working in sequence, tighten all the
cylinder head bolts to the specified Stage 1
torque (see illustrations).
20 Again working in sequence, tighten all
the cylinder head bolts through the specified
Stage 2 angle (see illustration).
21 Finally, tighten all the cylinder head bolts,
in sequence, through the specified Stage 3
angle.
22 Refit the hydraulic tappets, camshafts)
and cylinder head cover with reference to 8.18a Lightly oil the threads and heads of 8.18b . . . and screw them in as far as
Section 7. the bolts.. possible by hand
23 Refit the camshaft sprockets as described
in Section 6.
24 Refit the timing cover as described in
Section 5.
25 Refit the manifolds as described in
Chapter 4A.
26 The remainder of refitting is a reversal
of removal, remembering to fill the cooling
system as described in Chapter 1A.

9 Sump - |k
removal and refitting ^

Removal
1 Apply the handbrake, then jack up the front
of the car and support securely on axle stands H45846
(see Jacking and vehicle support).
2 Remove the securing bolts and withdraw
the engine undershield (see illustration 4.2). 8.19a Cylinder head bolt tightening sequence
3 Drain the engine oil as described in Chap-
ter 1 A.
4 Where fitted, disconnect the wiring
connector from the oil level/temperature
sender on the sump.
5 Unscrew and remove the bolts securing
the sump to the cylinder block, then withdraw
the sump (see illustrations). If necessary,
release the sump by tapping with a soft-faced
mallet.
Refitting
6 Commence refitting by thoroughly cleaning
the mating faces of the sump and cylinder
block. Ensure that all traces of old sealant are 8.19b Tighten the bolts to the torque 8.20 Tighten the bolts through the
removed. setting specified angle
2A»12 1.2 litre petrol engine in-car repair procedures

9.5a Unscrew the bolts .. 9.5b . . I and withdraw the sump 9.7 Apply a bead of sealant to the sump

7 Ensure that the cylinder block mating face of 5 If it is required to remove the oil pump chain
the sump is free from all traces of old sealant, 10 Oil purjjip, drive chain and tensioner, first remove the timing cover
oil and grease, and then apply a 2.0 to 4.0 mm and sprockets - removal, as described in Section 6. Mark the chain
thick bead of silicone sealant (D 176404 A2 or inspection and refitting and sprockets to ensure they are refitted the
equivalent) to the sump. Note that the sealant original way around. Slide the small sprocket
should be run around the inside of the bolt from the end of the crankshaft, then remove
holes in the sump (see illustration). The sump Removal both sprockets from the chain. Note: The
must be fitted within 5 minutes of applying the 1 Remove thlt sump as described in Section 9. sprocket is not keyed to the crankshaft.
sealant. It is not necessary to remove the timing cover Unbolt and remove the tensioner (see
8 Offer the sump up to the cylinder block, unless renewing the timing chain. illustrations).
then refit the retaining bolts, and progressively 2 Unbolt the plastic cover from the oil pump,
tighten them in diagonal sequence to the then hold thai sprocket stationary and unscrew
specified torque. the retaining bolt (see illustrations). Discard
Inspection
9 Reconnect the wiring to the oil level/ the bolt as||a new one must be used on 6 Thoroughly clean all components, then
temperature sender on the sump. refitting. examine the oil pump drive chain for excessive
10 Refit the engine undershield and lower the 3 Swivel th| chain tensioner outwards and wear. Also check the sprocket teeth for wear.
car to the ground. release the sprocket from the oil pump. Leave If the engine has covered a high mileage, the
11 Allow at least 30 minutes from the time the sprocket hanging in the chain. chain and sprockets should be renewed as a
of refitting the sump for the sealant to dry, 4 Unscrew Ihe mounting bolts and withdraw matter of course.
then refill the engine with oil, with reference to the oil pump from the dowels in the cylinder 7 The crankshaft pulley bolt must be renewed
Chapter 1 A. block (see illustrations). whenever removed.

10.2a Unbolt the plastic cover from the oil 10.2b ... then use a tool to hold the sprocket 10.2c . . . then remove the bolt and
pump . . . while the retaining bolt is loosened . . . sprocket

10.4a Unscrew the mounting bolts . . . and remove the oil pump 10.5a Remove the oil pump sprocket from
(arrowed)... the crankshaft
1.2 litre petrol engine in-car repair procedures 2A»13

Refitting
8 If removed, refit the oil pump drive chain as
follows. Refit the tensioner, then engage the
small sprocket with the drive chain, then locate
the sprocket on the end of the crankshaft
making sure that it is the correct way around.
9 Locate the oil pump on the cylinder block
dowels, insert the mounting bolts and tighten
them to the specified torque.
10 Where removed, engage the oil pump
sprocket in the chain. Swivel the chain tensioner
outwards, then position the sprocket on the oil
pump and screw on the new retaining bolt. 10.5b Remove the oil pump chain and 10.5c . . . then unbolt and remove the
Tighten the bolt to the specified torque and sprocket... tensioner
angle while holding the sprocket stationary.
11 Refit the oil pump plastic cover and tighten Refitting 2 Slide the sleeve from the end of the crank-
the bolts. shaft. Note: This is necessary as the sleeve
12 Refit the sump with reference to Section 9. 4 Examine the sealing washer for signs of
damage or deterioration and if necessary must be assembled onto the crankshaft
through the oil seal. If necessary, remove the
renew.
11 Oil pressure |k 5 Refit the switch, complete with washer, and
sleeve-sealing O-ring from the crankshaft.
warning light switch - tighten it to the specified torque.
3 Carefully lever the old seal out of the timing
removal and refitting ^ 6 Securely reconnect the wiring connector
cover using a suitable flat-bladed screwdriver
(see illustration), taking great care not to
then check and, if necessary, top-up the
damage the cover or crankshaft. Alternatively,
engine oil as described in Weekly checks.
Removal punch or drill two small holes opposite each
1 The oil pressure warning light switch is other in the seal, then screw a self-tapping
12 Crankshaft oil seals - ^ screw into each and pull on the screws with
located on the left-hand end of the cylinder renewal ^ pliers to extract the seal.
head.
2 Disconnect the wiring connector and wipe 4 Clean the seal housing, and polish off any
clean the area around the switch. burrs or raised edges on the crankshaft which
3 Unscrew the switch from the cylinder head may have caused the seal to fail in the first
and remove it, along with its sealing washer. Right-hand oil seal place.
If the switch is to be left removed from the 1 Remove the crankshaft pulley as described 5 Note that the new oil seal must not be oiled
engine for any length of time, plug the cylinder in Section 4, then note the fitted depth of the or greased, and the contact surfaces of the
head aperture. oil seal in the timing cover. timing cover must be completely dry. New
oil seals are provided with a fitting adapter.
Locate the adapter and new seal over the
crankshaft and onto the timing cover, and
press it into position until it is at the fitted
depth previously noted. If necessary, the seal
can be tapped into position using a suitable
tubular drift, such as a socket, which bears
only on the hard outer edge of the seal (see
illustrations). Note that the sealing lips must
face inwards.
6 If necessary, locate a new O-ring seal on
the crankshaft, then carefully insert the sleeve
through the new oil seal onto the crankshaft
(see illustrations).
12.3 Remove the old oil seal 12.5a Locate the new oil seal in the timing 7 Refit the crankshaft pulley as described in
cover... Section 4.

12.5b .. . and use a suitable socket to tap 12.6a Refit the O-ring seal 12.6b . .. and insert the sleeve
it into position
2A»14 1.2 litre petrol engine in-car repair procedures

polish off any burrs or raised edges on the
crankshaft which may have caused the seal to
fail in the first place.
11 Note that the new oil seal must not be oiled
or greased, and the contact surfaces of the
housing and crankshaft must be completely dry.
New oil seals are provided with a fitting adapter.
Locate the adapter and new seal over the
crankshaft and into the housing, and press it into
position until it is at the fitted depth previously
noted (see illustrations). If necessary, the seal
can be tapped into position using a suitable
tubular drift, such as a socket, which bears only
12.8 Note the fitted depth of the oil seal 12.9 Remove the crankshaft left-hand on the hard outer edge of the seal. Note that the
before removing it (flvjwheel end) oil seal sealing lips must face inwards.
12 Refit the flywheel as described in Section 13.

13 Flywheel-
removal, inspection ^
and refitting ^

Removal
1 Remove the transmission as described in
Chapter 7A, then remove the clutch assembly
as described in Chapter 6.
2 Prevent the flywheel from turning by locking
the ring gear teeth (see illustration), or by
12.11a Locate the adapter and new oil 12.11b I . . and tap it into position bolting a strap between the flywheel and the
seal over the crankshaft... cylinder block/crankcase.
Left-hand oil seal opposite each other in the seal. Screw a 3 Unscrew and remove the flywheel retaining
self-tapping screw into each hole, and pull on bolts (see illustration); discard the bolts, as they
8 Remove the flywheel as described in must be renewed whenever they are disturbed.
Section 13, then note the fitted depth of the the screws with pliers to extract the seal (see
4 Remove the flywheel, and if necessary
oil seal in the timing cover (see illustration). illustration). remove the engine endplate (see illustration).
9 Carefully punch or drill two small holes 10 Clean tnb cylinder block/crankcase, and Do not drop the flywheel, as it is very heavy.
Note: The bolt holes are offset, so it is only
possible to fit the flywheel in one position.
Inspection
5 If the clutch mating surface of the flywheel
is deeply scored, cracked or otherwise
damaged, the flywheel must be renewed,
unless it is possible to have it surface-ground.
Seek the advice of a Seat dealer or engine
reconditioning specialist.
V 6 If the ring gear teeth are badly worn, it must
be renewed, but this job is best left to a Seat
dealer or engine reconditioning specialist. The
13.2 Home-made tool used to hold the 13.3 Uns<|:rew the flywheel retaining bolts temperature to which the new ring gear must
flywheel stationary be heated for installation (150°C minimum)
is critical and, if not done accurately, the
hardness of the teeth will be destroyed.
7 If it is felt necessary, use the correct-size
tap to clean the threads in the crankshaft of
any old thread-locking fluid.
Refitting
c
s 8 Clean the mating surfaces of the flywheel
and crankshaft, then refit the endplate and
locate the flywheel on the crankshaft.
9 If the new flywheel retaining bolts are not
supplied with their threads already pre-coated
(see illustration), apply a suitable thread-
locking compound to the threads of each bolt.
13.4 Remove the engine endplate 13.9 Fitrche new flywheel retaining bolts Fit the bolts, tightening them by hand only at
this stage.
1.2 litre petrol engine in-car repair procedures 2A«15

13.10a Tighten the bolts to the specified 13.10b . . . and angle 14.9 Remove the engine right-hand
torque . . . mounting bracket

10 Lock the flywheel using the method Renewal wood between the transmission and the head
employed on dismantling, and tighten the of the jack, to prevent any damage to the
retaining bolts to the specified torque wrench Right-hand mounting transmission.
and angle settings (see illustrations). 5 Attach a hoist and lifting tackle to the engine 14 Remove the battery, as described in
11 Refit the clutch as described in Chapter 6, lifting brackets on the cylinder head, and raise Chapter 5A, then disconnect the main starter
then remove the locking tool and refit the the hoist to just take the weight of the engine. motor feed cable from the positive battery
transmission as described in Chapter 7A. Alternatively the engine can be supported on terminal box.
a trolley jack under the engine. Use a block of 15 Release any relevant wiring or hoses from
wood between the sump and the head of the the clips on the battery tray, then unscrew the
14 Engine/transmission jack, to prevent any damage to the sump. four securing bolts and remove the battery
mountings - 6 Where necessary, unbolt the coolant tray.
inspection and renewal reservoir and move it to one side, leaving the 16 Unscrew the bolts securing the mounting
coolant hoses connected. to the transmission, and the remaining bolts
7 Where applicable, move any wiring securing the mounting to the body, then lift
Inspection harnesses, pipes or hoses to one side to the mounting from the engine compartment.
enable removal of the engine mounting. 17 Refitting is a reversal of removal, bearing
1 If improved access is required, jack up the 8 Unscrew the mounting centre nut securing in mind the following points:
front of the car, and support it securely on the bracket to the flexible mounting. a) Use new mounting bolts.
axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle support). 9 Unscrew the three bolts securing the b) Tighten all fixings to the specified
Remove the securing bolts and remove the mounting bracket to the engine and remove torque.
engine undershields. the bracket (see illustration).
2 Check the mounting rubbers to see if they Rear mounting (torque arm)
10 Unbolt and remove the flexible mounting
are cracked, hardened or separated from the from the body. 18 Apply the handbrake, then jack up the
metal at any point; renew the mounting if any 11 Refitting is a reversal of removal, bearing front of the car and support securely on axle
such damage or deterioration is evident. in mind the following points: stands (see Jacking and vehicle support).
3 Check that all the mountings are securely a) Use new securing bolts. Remove the engine undershield(s) for access
tightened; use a torque wrench to check if b) Tighten all fixings to the specified torque. to the rear mounting (torque arm).
possible. 19 Support the rear of the transmission
4 Using a large screwdriver or a crowbar, Left-hand mounting beneath the final drive housing. To do this,
check for wear in the mounting by carefully Note: New mounting bolts will be required on use a trolley jack and block of wood, or
levering against it to check for free play. refitting (there is no need to renew the smaller alternatively wedge a block of wood between
Where this is not possible, enlist the aid of mounting-to-body bolts). the transmission and the subframe.
an assistant to move the engine/transmission 12 Remove the engine top cover which also 20 Working under the car, unscrew and
back-and-forth, or from side-to-side, whilst incorporates the air filter as described in remove the bolt securing the mounting to the
you observe the mounting. While some Chapter 4A. subframe.
free play is to be expected, even from new 13 Attach a hoist and lifting tackle to the 21 Unscrew the two bolts securing the
components, excessive wear should be engine lifting brackets on the cylinder head, mounting to the transmission, then withdraw
obvious. If excessive free play is found, and raise the hoist to just take the weight of the mounting from under the car.
check first that the fasteners are correctly the engine and transmission. Alternatively 22 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but use
secured, then renew any worn components as the engine can be supported on a trolley new mounting securing bolts, and tighten all
described in the following paragraphs. jack under the transmission. Use a block of fixings to the specified torque.
2A»16 Notes
2B-1

Chapter 2 Part B:
1.4 litre petrol engine in-car repair procedures
Contents Section number Section number
Auxiliary drivebelt - removal and refitting 4 Engine/transmission mountings - inspection and renewal 20
Camshaft carrier - removal and refitting 9 Flywheel/driveplate - removal, inspection and refitting 19
Camshaft oil seals - renewal 12 General information 1
Camshafts - removal, inspection and refitting 10 Oil pressure relief valve - removal, inspection and refitting 16
Compression test - description and interpretation 2 Oil pressure warning light switch - removal and refitting 17
Crankshaft oil seals - renewal 18 Oil pump - removal, inspection and refitting 15
Crankshaft pulley - removal and refitting 5 Rockers and hydraulic tappets - removal, inspection and refitting . . 1 1
Cylinder head - dismantling and overhaul See Chapter 2D Sump - removal and refitting 14
Cylinder head - removal, inspection and refitting 13 Timing belt covers - removal and refitting 6
Engine assembly and valve timing marks - general information and Timing belt tensioner and sprockets - removal, inspection and
usage 3 refitting 8
Engine oil and filter - renewal See Chapter 1A Timing belt(s) - removal and refitting 7
Engine oil level - check See Weekly checks

Degrees of difficulty
Easy, suitable for |^> Fairly easy, suitable Fairly difficult, f^ Difficult, suitable Very difficult,
novice with little for beginner with suitable for competent ^x for experienced DIY suitable for expert
experience ^ some experience DIY mechanic 2 mechanic DIY or professional

Specifications
General
Type Four-cylinder in-line, belt-driven double overhead camshaft (DOHC),
four stroke, 16-valve, liquid-cooled
Cubic capacity 1390 cc
Engine codes* AUB, BBY, BBZ, BKY and BXW
Power output:
BBY and BKY 55 kW (74 bhp) @ 5000 rpm
BXW 63 kW (85 bhp) @ 5200 rpm
AUB and BBZ 74 kW (99 bhp) @ 6000 rpm
Torque output:
BBY and BKY 126 Nm @ 3800 rpm
BXW 130 Nm @ 3800 rpm
AUB and BBZ 128 Nm @ 4400 rpm
Bore 76.5 mm
Stroke 75.6 mm
Compression ratio 10.5 : 1
Compression pressures:
New engine 10 to 15 bar
Minimum compression pressure 7.0 bar
Maximum difference between cylinders Approximately 3.0 bar
Firing order 1-3-4-2
No 1 cylinder location Crankshaft pulley end
Direction of crankshaft rotation Clockwise (when viewed from right-hand side of car)
* Note: See 'Vehicle identification' at the end of this manual for the location of engine code markings.
Camshafts
Camshaft endfloat (maximum) 0.15 mm
Camshaft bearing running clearance No figure specified
Camshaft run-out No figure specified
Lubrication system
Oil pump type Gear type, driven directly from front of crankshaft
Oil pressure (oil temperature 80°C):
At idle 1.0 bar
At 2000 rpm 2.0 bar
2B«2 1.4 litre petrol engine in-car repair procedures

Torque wrench settings Mm Ibfft
Alternator 20 15
Ancillary (alternator, etc) bracket mounting bolts II 50 37
Auxiliary drivebelt tensioner securing bolt:
M8 bolt:
Stage 1 II 20 15
Stage 2 Angle-tighten a further 90°
MIObolt 45 33
Big-end bearing caps bolts:*
Stage 1 30 22
Stage 2 Angle-tighten a further 90°
Camshaft carrier bolts:*
Stage 1 10 7
Stage 2 Angle-tighten a further 90°
Camshaft left-hand endplate bolts 10 7
Camshaft sprocket bolts:*
Stage 1 20 15
Stage 2 Angle-tighten a further 90°
Clutch pressure plate mounting bolts:*
Stage 1 60 44
Stage 2 Angle-tighten a further 90°
Coolant pump bolts 20 15
Crankcase breather (oil separator) bolts 10 7
Crankshaft oil seal housing bolts 12 9
Crankshaft pulley/sprocket bolt:*
Stage 1 90 66
Stage 2 Angle-tighten a further 90°
Cylinder head bolts:*
Stage 1 30 22
Stage 2 Angle-tighten a further 90°
Stage 3 Angle-tighten a further 90°
Engine/transmission left-hand mounting to transmission:*
Stage 1 40 30
Stage 2 Angle-tighten a further 90°
Engine/transmission left-hand mounting to body:*
Stage 1 50 37
Stage 2 Angle-tighten a further 90°
Engine/transmission rear mounting bracket to transmission:*
Stage 1 30 22
Stage 2 Angle-tighten a further 90°
Engine/transmission rear mounting link to subframe:*
Stage 1 40 30
Stage 2 Angle-tighten a further 90°
Engine/transmission right-hand mounting to engine:*
Stage 1 20 15
Stage 2 Angle-tighten a further 90°
Engine/transmission right-hand mounting to body:*
Stage 1 30 22
Stage 2 Angle-tighten a further 90°
Engine-to-automatic transmission bolts:
M12 bolts 80 59
M10 cylinder block-to-transmission bolts 60 44
M10 sump-to-transmission bolts 25 18
Engine-to-manual transmission bolts 80 59
Engine-to-manual transmission cover plate bolts 10 7
Exhaust manifold nuts 25 18
Exhaust pipe-to-manifold nuts 40 30
Flywheel/driveplate bolts:*
Stage 1 60 44
Stage 2 Angle-tighten a further 90°
Knock sensor 20 15
Oil cooler securing nut 25 18
Oil drain plug 30 22
Oil level/temperature sensor-to-sump bolts 10 7
Oil pick-up pipe securing bolts 10 7
Oil pressure warning light switch 25 18
Oil pump securing bolts* 12 9
Roadwheel bolts. . 120 89
1.4 litre petrol engine in-car repair procedures 2B»3

Torque wrench settings (continued) Nm Ibfft
Sump:
Sump-to-cylinder block bolts:
Metal sump 15 11
Aluminium sump 13 10
Sump-to-transmission bolts 45 33
Timing belt idler pulley bolt 50 37
Timing belt outer cover bolts:
Small bolts 10 7
Large bolts 12 9
Timing belt rear cover bolts:
Small bolts 10 7
Large bolt (coolant pump bolts) 20 15
Timing belt tensioners 20 15
* Do not re-use

belt from the crankshaft sprocket, and the * Cylinder head dismantling procedures
1 General information exhaust camshaft is driven from the intake are detailed in Chapter 2D, with details of
camshaft by a second toothed belt. The camshaft and hydraulic tappet removal.
camshafts are located in a camshaft carrier, Note: It is possible to remove the pistons and
which is bolted to the top of the cylinder connecting rods (after removing the cylinder
head. head and sump) without removing the engine.
Using this Chapter The valves are closed by coil springs, and However, this is not recommended. Work
This Part of Chapter 2 describes those repair run in guides pressed into the cylinder head; of this nature is more easily and thoroughly
procedures that can reasonably be carried out the camshafts actuate the valves by roller completed with the engine on the bench, as
on the engine while it remains in the car. If the rockers and hydraulic tappets. There are four described in Chapter 2D.
engine has been removed from the car and is valves per cylinder; two intake valves and two
being dismantled as described in Part D, any exhaust valves. 2 Compression test - jk
preliminary dismantling procedures can be The oil pump is driven directly from the end description and interpretation %
ignored. of the crankshaft. Oil is drawn from the sump
Note that while it may be possible physically through a strainer, and then forced through
to overhaul items such as the piston/ an externally-mounted, renewable filter. From
1 When engine performance is down, or if
connecting rod assemblies while the engine is there, it is distributed to the cylinder head,
misfiring occurs which cannot be attributed
in the car, such tasks are not usually carried where it lubricates the camshaft journals and
to the ignition or fuel systems, a compression
out as separate operations, and usually require hydraulic tappets, and also to the crankcase,
test can provide diagnostic clues as to the
the execution of several additional procedures where it lubricates the main bearings,
engine's condition. If the test is performed
(not to mention the cleaning of components connecting rod big-ends, gudgeon pins and
regularly, it can give warning of trouble before
and of oilways); for this reason, all such tasks cylinder bores. A coolant-fed oil cooler is fitted
any other symptoms become apparent.
are classed as major overhaul procedures, to certain engines. 2 The engine must be fully warmed-up to
and are described in Part D of this Chapter. On all engines, engine coolant is circulated normal operating temperature, the battery
Caution: The crankshaft must not be by a pump, driven by the main timing belt. For must be fully-charged and the spark plugs
removed on these engines. If the crankshaft details of the cooling system, refer to Chap- must be removed. The aid of an assistant will
or main bearing surfaces are worn or ter 3. be required.
damaged, the complete crankshaft/cylinder 3 Disable the ignition system by disconnecting
block assembly must be renewed.
Repairs with engine in car
the wiring plug from the ignition module
Part D describes the removal of the engine/ The following operations can be performed (engine code AUB) or ignition coils (engine
transmission from the car and the full overhaul without removing the engine: codes BBY, BBZ, BKY and BXW).
procedures that can then be carried out. a) Compression pressure - testing. 4 Fit a compression tester to the No 1 cylinder
b) Camshaft carrier - removal and refitting. spark plug hole. The type of tester that screws
Engine description c) Crankshaft pulley - removal and refitting. into the plug thread is preferred.
The engine is a water-cooled, double d) Timing belt covers - removal and refitting. 5 Remove the fuel injector fuse from the
overhead camshaft, in-line four-cylinder unit, e) Timing belts - removal, refitting and fusebox with reference to Chapter 12.
with an aluminium-alloy cylinder block and adjustment. 6 Have the assistant hold the throttle wide
cylinder head. It is mounted transversely f) Timing belt tensioner and sprockets - open and crank the engine for several seconds
at the front of the car, with the transmission removal and refitting. on the starter motor. Note: The throttle will
bolted to the left-hand side of the engine. g) Camshaft oil seals - renewal. not operate until the ignition is switched on.
The crankshaft is of five-bearing type, and h) Camshafts and hydraulic tappets - After one or two revolutions, the compression
thrustwashers are fitted to the centre main removal, inspection and refitting, pressure should build-up to a maximum figure
bearing to control crankshaft endfloat. The i) Cylinder head - removal and refitting*, and then stabilise. Record the highest reading
crankshaft and main bearings are matched to j) Sump - removal and refitting, obtained.
the alloy cylinder block, and it is not possible k) Oil pump - removal, overhaul and 7 Repeat the test on the remaining cylinders,
to reassemble the crankshaft and cylinder refitting. recording the pressure in each.
block once the components have been I) Crankshaft oil seals - renewal, 8 All cylinders should produce very similar
separated. If the crankshaft or bearings are m) Engine/transmission mountings - pressures. Any difference greater than
worn, the complete cylinder block/crankshaft inspection and renewal, that specified indicates the existence of
assembly must be renewed. n) Flywheel - removal, inspection and a fault. Note that the compression should
The intake camshaft is driven by a toothed refitting. build-up quickly in a healthy engine. Low
2B»4 1.4 litre petrol engine in-car repair proc

3.4a Crankshaft pulley timing mark 3.4b Timing) mark scribed on inner flange 3.5 Crankshaft sprocket tooth with
aligned with TDC mark on timing belt of pulley ali jned with TDC mark on timing chamfered edge aligns with cast arrow on
cover belt cover oil pump
compression on the first stroke, followed by 11 A low re ing from two adjacent cylinders reaches TDC at the end of the compression
gradually increasing pressure on successive is almost c ainly due to the head gasket stroke and again at the end of the exhaust
strokes, indicates worn piston rings. A low having blow between them and the presence stroke, but TDC generally refers to piston
compression reading on the first stroke, of coolant in he engine oil will confirm this. position on the compression stroke. No 1
which does not build-up during successive 12 If one cy inder is about 20 percent lower piston is at the timing belt end of the engine.
strokes, indicates leaking valves or a blown than the oth rs and the engine has a slightly 2 Positioning No 1 piston at TDC is an
head gasket (a cracked head could also be rough idle, a orn camshaft lobe could be the essential part of many procedures, such as
the cause). Deposits on the undersides of the cause. timing belt removal and camshaft removal.
valve heads can also cause low compression. 13 On com etion of the test, refit the spark 3 The design of the engines covered in this
9 If the pressure in any cylinder is reduced to plugs, recon ect the ignition wiring and refit Chapter is such that piston-to-valve contact
the specified minimum or less, carry out the the fuel injec r fuse. may occur if the camshaft or crankshaft is
following test to isolate the cause. Introduce turned with the timing belt removed. For
a teaspoonful of clean oil into that cylinder 3 Engin assembly and this reason, it is important to ensure that
through its spark plug hole and repeat the valve ming marks - the camshaft and crankshaft do not move in
test. general information and usage relation to each other once the timing belt has
10 If the addition of oil temporarily improves been removed from the engine.
the compression pressure, this indicates that 4 The crankshaft pulley has a marking
bore or piston wear is responsible for the General i formation which, when aligned with a corresponding
pressure loss. No improvement suggests 1 TDC is thi highest point in the cylinder reference marking on the timing belt cover,
that leaking or burnt valves, or a blown head that each pis on reaches as it travels up and indicates that No 1 piston (and hence also
gasket, may be to blame. down when tie crankshaft turns. Each piston No 4 piston) is at TDC. Note that on some
models, the crankshaft pulley timing mark is
located on the outer flange of the pulley. In
order to make alignment of the timing marks
easier, it is advisable to remove the pulley (see
Section 5) and, using a set-square, scribe a
corresponding mark on the inner flange of the
pulley (see illustrations).
5 Note that there is also a timing mark which
can be used with the crankshaft sprocket -
this is useful if the crankshaft pulley and timing
belt have been removed. When No 1 piston is
at TDC, the crankshaft sprocket tooth with the
chamfered inner edge aligns with a cast arrow
on the oil pump (see illustration).
6 The camshaft sprockets are equipped with
TDC positioning holes. When the positioning
holes are aligned with the corresponding holes
in the camshaft carrier, No 1 piston is at TDC
on the compression stroke (see illustration).
7 Additionally, on some models, the flywheel/
driveplate has a TDC marking, which can be
observed by unscrewing a protective plastic
cover from the transmission bellhousing.
The mark takes the form of a notch in the
edge of the flywheel on manual transmission
H31945
models, or an O marking on automatic
transmission models. Note that it is not
possible to use these marks on all models
due to the limited access available to view
3.6 Camshaft sprocket positioning holes (at owed) aligned the marks.
1.4 litre petrol engine in-car repair procedures 2B»5

Setting No 1 cylinder to TDC
Note: Suitable locking pins will be required to
lock the camshaft sprockets in position during
this procedure. On some engines, it may be
necessary to use a small mirror to view the
timing marks from under the wheel arch.
8 Before starting work, make sure that the
ignition is switched off.
9 Remove the air cleaner assembly as
described in Chapter 4A.
10 If desired, to make the engine easier
to turn, remove all of the spark plugs as
described in Chapter 1A. 3.12 Undo the bolts (arrowed) and remove 3.17 Tool used to lock camshaft sprockets
11 Apply the handbrake, then jack up the the engine undershield at TDC (engine and timing belt removed)
front of the car and support on axle stands
(see Jacking and vehicle support). camshaft carrier (see illustration). The engine then release the tensioner. Check that the belt
12 Remove the right-hand front roadwheel, is now locked in position, with No 1 piston at is located correctly in the multi-grooves in the
then remove the securing bolts and/or clips, TDC on the compression stroke. pulleys.
and remove the appropriate engine under- 7 Refit the access panel, roadwheel, and top
shields to enable access to the crankshaft 4 Auxiliary drivebelt - |k cover, and lower the car to the ground.
pulley (see illustration). removal and refitting |g>
13 Remove the upper timing belt cover as 5 Crankshaft pulley - ^
described in Section 6. removal and refitting ^
14 Turn the engine clockwise, using a spanner
on the crankshaft pulley bolt, until the TDC mark General information
on the crankshaft pulley or flywheel/driveplate 1 Depending on the vehicle specification,
is aligned with the corresponding mark on the the auxiliary drivebelt, which is driven from a Removal
timing belt cover or transmission casing, and pulley mounted on the crankshaft, will provide 1 For improved access, jack up the front of
the locking pin holes in the camshaft sprockets drive for the alternator and, on models with air
are aligned with the corresponding holes in the the car, and support securely on axle stands
conditioning, the refrigerant compressor. (see Jacking and vehicle support). Remove
camshaft carrier. 2 The ribbed auxiliary belt is fitted with an
15 If necessary, to give sufficient clearance the right-hand front roadwheel. Also remove
automatic tensioning device. the engine top cover and where necessary
for the camshaft locking tool to be engaged
with the camshaft sprockets, unbolt the air Removal disconnect the ventilation hose.
cleaner support bracket from the engine 2 Remove the securing bolts and/or release
3 For improved access, apply the handbrake,
mounting. Similarly, if necessary, unbolt the the clips, and withdraw the relevant engine
then jack up the front of the car and support it on
power steering fluid reservoir and move it to undershield(s) to enable access to the
axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle support).
one side, leaving the fluid hoses connected. Remove the right-hand front roadwheel, then crankshaft pulley (see illustration 3.12).
16 A suitable tool will now be required to lock the remove the access panel from the inner wheel 3 If necessary (for any later work to be carried
camshaft sprockets in the TDC position. A special arch. Also remove the engine top cover and out), turn the crankshaft using a socket or
Seat tool (T10016) is available for this purpose, where necessary disconnect the ventilation spanner on the crankshaft pulley bolt, until the
but a suitable tool can be improvised using two hose. relevant timing marks align (see Section 3).
M8 bolts and nuts, and a short length of steel 4 Use a spanner to turn the tensioner central 4 Remove the auxiliary drivebelt (see Section 4).
bar. With the camshaft sprocket positioned as bolt clockwise to release the tension on the 5 To prevent the crankshaft from turning as the
described in paragraph 14, measure the distance drivebelt (see illustration). pulley bolt is slackened, a tool similar to that
between the locking pin hole centres, and drill 5 Note how the drivebelt is routed, then shown can be used. Engage the tool with two
two corresponding 8 mm holes in the length of remove it from the crankshaft pulley, alternator of the slots in the pulley (see illustration).
steel bar. Slide the M8 bolts through the holes in pulley and air conditioning compressor pulley 6 Counterhold the pulley, and slacken the
the bar, and secure them using the nuts. (where applicable). pulley bolt (take care - the bolt is very tight)
17 Slide the tool into position in the holes using a socket and a suitable extension.
in the camshaft sprockets, ensuring that the Refitting 7 Unscrew the bolt, and remove the pulley
pins (or bolts) engage with the holes in the 6 Locate the new drivebelt on the pulleys, (see illustration).

4.4 Rotate the central bolt clockwise to 5.5 Counterhold the crankshaft pulley 5.7 Remove the crankshaft pulley
release the tension using a tool similar to that shown
2B»6 1.4 litre petrol engine in-car repair proc sdures

6.2 Remove the upper outer timing belt 6.5a Re jase the two securing clips 6.5b . . . then unscrew the two lower
cover (arrowed)... securing bolts (arrowed)...

Lower outer cover
4 Remove the crankshaft pulley, as described
in Section 5.
5 Release the two cover securing clips,
located at the rear of the engine, then unscrew
the two lower securing bolts, and the single
bolt securing the cover to the engine mounting
bracket. Withdraw the cover downwards from
the engine (see illustrations).
6 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but refit the
crankshaft pulley with reference to Section 5.
Rear timing belt cover
6.5c . . . and the single bolt (arrowed) 6.5d tr en withdraw the lower timing
Note: As the rear timing belt cover securing
securing the cover to the engine mounting belt cover
bolts also secure the coolant pump, it is
bracket...
advisable to drain the cooling system (see
8 Refit the crankshaft pulley securing bolt, 12 Refit the engine undershield(s) and top Chapter 1A) before starting this procedure, and
with a spacer washer positioned under its cover. to renew the coolant pump seal/gasket (see
head, to retain the crankshaft sprocket. 13 Refit the roadwheel, lower the car to the Chapter 3) before refitting the cover. Refill the
ground,and ghten the roadwheel bolts to the cooling system with reference to Chapter 1A.
Refitting specified ton 7 Remove the timing belt as described in
9 Unscrew the crankshaft pulley/sprocket Section 7.
bolt used to retain the sprocket, and remove 6 Timinj belt covers - 8 Unbolt the timing belt idler pulley/bracket
the spacer washer, then refit the pulley to the assembly (see illustration).
remov I and refitting
sprocket. Ensure that the locating pin on the 9 Unscrew the rear timing belt cover securing
sprocket engages with the corresponding hole bolt located next to the engine right-hand
in the pulley. lifting eye (see illustration).
10 Oil the threads of the new crankshaft 10 Unscrew the two securing bolts, and
pulley bolt. Prevent the crankshaft from Upper outer cover remove the rear timing belt cover. Note that
turning as during removal, then fit the new 1 Remove t e air cleaner assembly/engine the bolts also secure the coolant pump (see
pulley securing bolt, and tighten it to the top cover as described in Chapter 4A. illustration).
specified torque, in the two stages given in 2 Release th 3 two securing clips, and lift the 11 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but
the Specifications. timing belt o ter, upper cover from the engine tighten the timing belt idler pulley/bracket bolt
11 Refit the auxiliary drivebelt as described in (see illustral on). to the specified torque, and refit the timing
Section 4. 3 Refitting is a reversal of removal. belt as described in Section 7.

6.8 Remove the idler pulley/bracket 6.9 Unscrevi the rear timing belt cover bolt 6.10 Remove the rear timing belt cover
assembly (viewed with engine removed) next to « igine right-hand lifting eye (viewed with engine removed)
1.4 litre petrol engine in-car repair procedures 2B»7

7 Timing belts -
removal and refitting

Removal
1 These engines have two timing belts; the
main timing belt drives the intake camshaft
from the crankshaft, and the secondary timing
belt drives the exhaust camshaft from the
intake camshaft.
Main timing belt 7.12 Slacken the tensioner bolt, lever the 7.13 Remove the main timing belt
2 Remove the air cleaner assembly as tensioner anti-clockwise, then retighten
described in Chapter 4A. the tensioner clockwise using the Allen key sprocket locking tool, and fit the secondary
3 Remove the upper and lower timing belt (to release the tension on the belt). Unscrew timing belt around the camshaft sprockets.
covers as described in Section 6. the securing bolt, and remove the secondary Make sure that the belt is as tight as possible
4 Refit the crankshaft pulley securing bolt, timing belt tensioner (see illustrations). on its top run between the sprockets (but note
with a spacer washer positioned under its 17 Temporarily remove the camshaft sprocket that there will be some slack in the belt). If
head, to retain the crankshaft sprocket. locking tool, and slide the secondary timing the original belt is being refitted, observe the
5 Turn the crankshaft to position No 1 piston belt from the sprockets (see illustration).
at TDC on the compression stroke, and running direction markings. Refit the camshaft
Refit the sprocket locking tool once the belt sprocket locking tool once the belt has been
lock the camshaft sprockets in position, as
has been removed. fitted to the sprockets.
described in Section 3.
6 Release the coolant reservoir and move it to Refitting 20 Check that the secondary timing belt
one side. There is no need to disconnect the tensioner pointer is positioned on the far left
hoses. Secondary timing belt of the tensioner backplate. Remember that
7 Where applicable, on models with air 18 Check that the camshaft sprockets are the terms 'left' and 'right' are in the sense
conditioning, unscrew the securing bolt, and still locked in position by the locking pins, of a person sat in the driver's seat, facing
remove the auxiliary drivebelt idler pulley. then turn the crankshaft a quarter-turn (90°) forwards.
8 Attach a hoist and lifting tackle to the clockwise to reposition Nos 1 and 4 pistons 21 Lift the lower run of the secondary
right-hand (timing belt end) engine lifting at TDC. Ensure that the crankshaft sprocket timing belt using the tensioner, and fit the
bracket, and raise the hoist to just take the tooth with the chamfered inner edge is aligned tensioner securing bolt (if necessary turn
weight of the engine. with the corresponding mark on the oil pump the tensioner with an Allen key until the bolt
9 Remove the complete engine right-hand housing (see illustration). hole in the tensioner aligns with the bolt hole
mounting assembly, as described in Section 20. 19 Temporarily remove the camshaft in the cylinder head). Make sure that the lug
10 Unscrew the four securing bolts, and
remove the engine right-hand mounting
bracket from the engine.
11 If either of the timing belts are to be
refitted, mark their running directions to ensure
correct refitting.
12 Engage a suitable Allen key with the hole
in the main timing belt tensioner plate, then
slacken the tensioner bolt, lever the tensioner
anti-clockwise using the Allen key (to release
the tension on the belt), and retighten the
tensioner bolt (see illustration).
13 Temporarily remove the camshaft sprocket
locking tool, then slide the main timing belt 7.16a Slacken the tensioner bolt, and 7.16b . . . then unscrew the bolt and
from the sprockets, noting its routing (see rotate the tensioner clockwise . . . remove the tensioner
illustration). Refit the camshaft sprocket
locking tool once the timing belt has been
removed.
14 Turn the crankshaft a quarter-turn (90°)
anti-clockwise to position Nos 1 and 4 pistons
slightly down their bores from the TDC
position. This will eliminate any risk of piston-
to-valve contact if the crankshaft or camshaft
is turned whilst the timing belt is removed.
Secondary timing belt
15 To remove the secondary timing belt,
once the main timing belt has been removed,
proceed as follows.
16 Engage a suitable Allen key with the hole 7.18 Crankshaft sprocket tooth with
in the secondary timing belt tensioner plate, 7.17 Remove the secondary timing belt chamfered edge aligned with cast arrow
then slacken the tensioner bolt, and lever on oil pump
2B»8 1.4 litre petrol engine in-car repair procedures

29 Disconnect the hoist and lifting tackle
from the engine lifting bracket.
30 Where applicable, refit the auxiliary
drivebelt idler pulley.
31 Refit the lower outer timing belt cover,
with reference to Section 6 if necessary.
32 Refit the crankshaft pulley as described in
Section 5.
33 Refit the upper outer timing belt cover.
34 Refit the air cleaner assembly.

8 Timing belt tensioner
and sprockets - removal,
7.21 Secondary timing belt tensioner 7.22 Turn tr |e tensioner anti-clockwise to
inspection and refitting
pointer correctly positioned align the t nsioner pointer and the lug

on the tensioner backplate engages with pump sprocf t, followed by the tensioner
the core plug hole in the cylinder head (see roller, crar ft sprocket, idler pulley, intake Tensioner
illustration). camshaft sp ocket and the second idler Main timing belt
22 Use the Allen key to turn the tensioner pulley. Once he belt has been refitted, refit
1 Remove the main timing belt as described
anti-clockwise until the tensioner pointer the camshaft procket locking tool,
aligns with the lug on the tensioner backplate, in Section 7.
24 Ensure that the tensioner bolt is slack,
2 Unscrew the main timing belt tensioner bolt,
with the lug positioned against the left-hand then engage n Allen key with the hole in the
and remove the tensioner from the engine.
stop in the core plug hole (see illustration). tensioner pla and turn the plate clockwise
3 Engage an Allen key with the hole in
Tighten the tensioner bolt to the specified until the ten on indicator pointer is aligned
the tensioner plate, and turn the tensioner
torque. with the centr of the cut-out in the backplate.
anti-clockwise to the position shown (see
Main timing belt Tighten the snsioner securing bolt to the
illustration).
specified torq ie 4 Refit the tensioner to the engine, ensuring
23 Where applicable, ensure that the
25 Remove he camshaft sprocket locking that the cut-out in the tensioner backplate
secondary drivebelt has been refitted and
tool. engages with the bolt on the cylinder block
tensioned, then again temporarily remove
26 Using a spanner or socket on the (see illustration 8.3). Refit the tensioner
the camshaft sprocket locking tool, and fit
the main timing belt around the sprockets. If crankshaft pu ey bolt, turn the engine through securing bolt, and tighten by hand.
the original belt is being refitted, observe the two complete turns in the normal direction of 5 Refit and tension the main timing belt as
running direction markings. Work in an anti- rotation, unti the crankshaft sprocket tooth described in Section 7.
clockwise direction, starting at the coolant with the chc nfered inner edge is aligned
with the corre spending mark on the oil pump Secondary timing belt
housing (refe to illustration 3.5). Check that 6 Removal and refitting of the tensioner is
the locking to I can again be fitted to lock the described as part of the timing belt removal
camshaft spi ckets in position - if not, one procedure in Section 7.
or both of th j timing belts may have been Main timing belt idler pulleys
incorrectly fitt d.
27 With th crankshaft timing marks 7 Remove the timing belt as described in
aligned, and he camshaft sprockets locked Section 7.
in position, cpeck the tension of the timing 8 Unscrew the securing bolt and remove the
belts. The se ondary and main belt tension relevant idler pulley. Note that the smaller
indicators sh jld be positioned as described pulley (the idler pulley nearest the intake
in paragraphs 22 and 24 respectively - if not, manifold side of the engine) can be removed
repeat the ap >ropriate tensioning procedure, complete with its mounting bracket (unbolt
then recheck ie tension. the mounting bracket bolt, leaving the pulley
8.3 Turn the tensioner anti-clockwise 28 When the belt tension is correct, refit the attached to the bracket) (see illustrations).
to position shown before fitting. Cut-out engine right- h^id mounting bracket, and tighten 9 Refit the relevant idler pulley and tighten the
engages with bolt (A) the securing b Its to the specified torque. securing bolt to the specified torque. Note that
if the smaller idler pulley has been removed
complete with its bracket, ensure that the
bracket locates over the rear timing belt cover
bolt on refitting.
10 Refit and tension the main timing belt as
described in Section 7.
Crankshaft sprocket
11 Remove the main timing belt as described
in Section 7.
12 Unscrew the crankshaft pulley, and the
washer used to retain the sprocket, and
withdraw the sprocket from the crankshaft.
13 Commence refitting by positioning the
8,8a Remove the smaller 8.8b . .. and arger timing belt idler pulleys sprocket on the end of the crankshaft, noting
that the pulley locating pin must be outermost
1.4 litre petrol engine in-car repair procedures 2B«9

8.19 Tighten the sprocket securing bolt
8.13 Refit the crankshaft sprocket. Pulley 8.18 Ensure sprocket lug (1) engages with using a suitable tool to hold the sprocket
locating pin (arrowed) must be outermost camshaft notch (2) stationary
(see illustration). Temporarily refit the as during removal, and tighten the bolt to the 3 On engine code AUB, disconnect the HT
pulley securing bolt and washer to retain the specified torque, in the two stages given in leads from the spark plugs. Use a hooked
sprocket. the Specifications (see illustration). length of stout wire to pull the connectors
14 Refit the main timing belt as described in 20 Refit the secondary and main timing belts from the spark plugs. Release the securing
Section 7. as described in Section 7. lug, and disconnect the wiring plug from the
Coolant pump sprocket ignition module, then unscrew the securing
Camshaft sprockets bolts, and remove the module and HT leads
15 Remove the main and secondary timing 21 The coolant pump sprocket is integral as an assembly (see illustrations).
belts as described in Section 7. Ensure that with the coolant pump. Refer to Chapter 3 for 4 On engine codes BBY, BBZ, BKY and BXW,
the crankshaft has been turned a quarter-turn details of coolant pump removal. disconnect the wiring and remove the ignition
(90°) anti-clockwise to position Nos 1 and 4 coils from the spark plugs (see Chapter 5B),
pistons slightly down their bores from the TDC 9 Camshaft carrier - |^ then remove the cable guide.
position. This will eliminate any risk of piston- removal and refitting g^ 5 Disconnect the intake camshaft position
to-valve contact if the crankshaft or camshaft sensor wiring connector (see illustration).
is turned whilst the timing belt is removed. 6 Unscrew the bolt securing the exhaust gas
16 The relevant camshaft sprocket bolt recirculation solenoid valve (where fitted) to the
must now be slackened. The camshaft must Removal end of the camshaft carrier (see illustration).
be prevented from turning as the sprocket 1 Disconnect the battery negative lead as Move the valve to one side.
bolt is unscrewed - do not rely solely on the described in Chapter 5A. 7 Disconnect the wiring plug from the oil
sprocket locking tool for this. To hold the 2 Remove the main and secondary timing pressure warning light switch, located at the
sprocket, make up a tool, and use it to hold belts, as described in Section 7. front left-hand corner of the camshaft carrier.
the sprocket stationary by means of the holes
in the sprocket (see illustration 8.19).
17 Unscrew the camshaft sprocket bolt, and
withdraw the sprocket from the end of the
camshaft, noting which way round it is fitted.
18 Commence refitting by offering the
sprocket up to the camshaft, ensuring that
lug on the sprocket engages with the notch
in the end of the camshaft. If both camshaft
sprockets have been removed, note that the
double sprocket (for the main and secondary
timing belts) should be fitted to the intake
camshaft, and note that the exhaust camshaft
sprocket must be fitted first (see illustration).
9.3a Use a hooked wire to pull off the plug 9.3b Unscrew the DIS module securing
19 Fit a new sprocket securing bolt, then
connectors (AUB engines) bolts ..
use the tool to hold the sprocket stationary,

9.3c . . . then remove the DIS module and 9.5 Disconnect the wiring connector from 9.6 Unbolt the exhaust gas recirculation
HT leads the intake camshaft position sensor solenoid valve from the camshaft carrier
2B»10 1.4 litre petrol engine in-car repair proc edures

9.7a Disconnect the oil pressure warning 9.7b . . . the n release the wiring from the 9.8 Remove the timing belt rear cover bolt
light switch wiring plug . . . clip on the end of the camshaft carrier next to the engine right-hand lifting eye

9.9 Remove the camshaft carrier securing 9.14 Sprt ad sealant on the camshaft 9.17 Tighten the camshaft carrier bolts
bolts carrier's cylinder head mating face through the specified Stage 2 angle
Release the wiring harness from the clip on the rockers. vlote that the camshaft carrier and make sure that the carrier engages with
the end of the camshaft carrier, and move the locates on c owels in the cylinder head; if the cylinder head dowels. Where applicable,
wiring to one side (see illustrations). desired, to m ke fitting easier, two guide studs once the camshaft carrier contacts the surface
8 Remove the rear timing belt cover securing can be made up as follows: of the cylinder head, unscrew the two guide
bolt, located next to the engine right-hand a) Cut the h ads off two M6 bolts, then cut studs, and fit the two remaining new camshaft
lifting eye (see illustration). slots in B top of each bolt to enable the carrier securing bolts in their place.
9 Working progressively from the centre out, bolt to be unscrewed using a flat-bladed 17 Tighten the camshaft carrier securing
in a diagonal sequence, slacken and remove screwdri\ bolts to the specified torque, in the two stages
the camshaft carrier securing bolts (see b) Screw or ; bolt into each of the camshaft given in the Specifications (see illustration).
illustration). carrier be t locations at opposite corners 18 Leave the camshaft carrier sealant to dry
10 Carefully lift the camshaft carrier from the of the cyl ider head. for approximately 30 minutes before carrying
cylinder head. The camshafts can be removed c) Lower tho camshaft carrier over the bolts out any further work on the cylinder head or
from the carrier, as described in Section 10. to guide it into position on the cylinder camshaft carrier.
head. 19 The remainder of refitting is a reversal of
Refitting removal.
16 Fit new amshaft carrier securing bolts,
11 Commence refitting by thoroughly
and tighten t iem progressively, working from
cleaning all traces of old sealant, and all 10 Camshafts- |k
the centre o jt, in a diagonal sequence (ie,
traces of oil and grease, from the mating faces
of the cylinder head and camshaft carrier.
tighten all bo ts through one turn, then tighten removal, inspection ^
Ensure that no debris enters the cylinder head
all bolts thrc ugh a further turn, and so on). and refitting ^k
Ensure that t ie camshaft carrier sits squarely
or camshaft carrier.
on the cylindi r head as the bolts are tightened,
12 Ensure that the crankshaft is still
positioned a quarter-turn (90°) anti-clockwise Removal
from the TDC position, and that the camshafts 1 Remove the camshaft carrier as described
are locked in position with the locking tool, as in Section 9.
described in Section 3. 2 Remove the camshaft sprockets, with
13 Check that the valve rockers are correctly reference to Section 8 if necessary.
located on the valves, and securely clipped 3 If the intake camshaft is to be removed,
into position on the hydraulic tappets. unscrew the securing bolt, and remove
14 Apply a thin, even coat of sealant (Seat the intake camshaft position sensor (see
AMV 188 003, or equivalent) to the cylinder illustration).
head mating face of the camshaft carrier (see 4 Remove the relevant camshaft carrier
illustration). Do not apply the sealant too endplate (see illustration). Note that on
thickly, as excess sealant may enter and block engine code AUB the intake camshaft endplate
the oilways, causing engine damage. is secured by the ignition module bolts, which
15 Carefully lower the camshaft carrier onto 10.3 Remote the intake camshaft position have already been removed, and the exhaust
the cylinder head, until the camshafts rest on sensor camshaft endplate is secured by three bolts,
1.4 litre petrol engine in-car repair procedures 2B«11

10.4 Remove the camshaft carrier 10.5 Withdraw the camshaft from the 10.10 Renew the camshaft carrier
endplate endplate end of the camshaft carrier endplate O-ring
one of which also secures the exhaust gas renewal of the camshafts and camshaft carrier 4 Carefully lift the hydraulic tappets from their
recirculation solenoid valve. must be considered. bores in the cylinder head. It is advisable to
5 Carefully withdraw the relevant camshaft store the tappets (in order) upright in an oil
from the endplate end of the camshaft Refitting
bath whilst they are removed from the engine.
carrier, taking care not to damage the bearing 10 Refitting is a reversal of removal, bearing
surfaces of the camshaft and housing as the in mind the following points: Inspect/on
camshaft is withdrawn (see illustration). a) Before refitting the camshaft, renew 5 Check the tappet bores in the cylinder head
the camshaft right-hand oil seal, with for signs of scoring or damage. If significant
Inspection reference to Section 12. scoring or damage is found, it may be
6 Visually inspect the camshafts for evidence b) Lubricate the bearing surfaces in the necessary to renew the cylinder head and the
of wear on the surfaces of the lobes and camshaft carrier, and the camshaft lobes complete set of tappets.
journals. Normally their surfaces should before refitting the camshaft(s). 6 Inspect the hydraulic tappets for obvious
be smooth and have a dull shine; look for c) Renew the sealing O-ring on each signs of wear or damage, and renew if
scoring, erosion or pitting and areas that camshaft carrier endplate (see necessary. Check that the oil holes in the
appear highly polished, indicating excessive illustration).
wear. Accelerated wear will occur once the tappets are free from obstructions.
d) Refit the camshaft sprockets) with 7 Check the valve, tappet, and camshaft
hardened exterior of the camshaft has been reference to Section 8, noting that if both
damaged, so always renew worn items. Note: contact faces of the rockers for wear or
sprockets have been removed, the exhaust damage, and also check the rockers for
If these symptoms are visible on the tips of camshaft sprocket must be fitted first.
the camshaft lobes, check the corresponding any signs of cracking. Renew any worn or
e) Refit the camshaft carrier as described in damaged rockers.
rocker, as it will probably be worn as well. Section 9.
7 If the machined surfaces of the camshaft 8 Inspect the camshaft lobes, as described in
appear discoloured or blued, it is likely that it Section 10.
has been overheated at some point, probably 11 Rockers and ^
due to inadequate lubrication. This may have hydraulic tappets - removal, ^ Refitting
distorted the shaft, so check the run-out as inspection and refitting ^ 9 Oil the tappet bores in the cylinder head,
follows: place the camshaft between two and the hydraulic tappets themselves, then
V-blocks and using a DTI gauge, measure the carefully slide the tappets into their original
run-out at the centre journal. No maximum Removal bores (see illustration).
run-out figure is quoted by the manufacturers, 1 Remove the camshaft carrier, as described 10 Oil the rocker contact faces of the tappets,
but it should be obvious if the camshaft is in Section 9. and the tops of the valve stems, then refit the
excessively distorted. 2 As the components are removed, keep them rockers to their original locations, ensuring
8 To measure camshaft endfloat, temporarily in strict order, so that they can be refitted in that the rockers are securely clipped onto the
refit the relevant camshaft to the camshaft their original locations. tappets.
carrier, and refit the camshaft sealing plate to 3 Unclip the rockers from the hydraulic 11 Check the endfloat of each camshaft,
the rear of the camshaft carrier. Anchor a DTI tappets, and lift them from the cylinder head as described in Section 10, then refit the
gauge to the timing belt end of the camshaft (see illustration). camshaft carrier as described in Section 9.
carrier and align the gauge probe with the
camshaft axis. Push the camshaft to one end
of the camshaft carrier as far as it will travel,
then rest the DTI gauge probe on the end of the
camshaft, and zero the gauge display. Push
the camshaft as far as it will go to the other
end of the camshaft carrier, and record the
gauge reading. Verify the reading by pushing
the camshaft back to its original position and
checking that the gauge indicates zero again.
> -
9 Check that the camshaft endfloat
measurement is within the limit listed in the
Specifications. Wear outside of this limit may
be cured by renewing the relevant camshaft
/
carrier endplate, although wear is unlikely 11.3 Remove the rockers from above the 11.9 Oil the tappets before fitting
to be confined to any one component, so hydraulic tappets (arrowed)
2B«12 1.4 litre petrol engine in-car repair procedures

surface of 1 e camshaft by wiping it with a
lint-free clot . Remove any swarf or burrs that 13 Cylinder head-
may cause t e seal to leak. removal, inspection ^
5 Lubricate he lip and outer edge of the new and refitting ^k
oil seal with ;lean engine oil, and push it over
the camshaft until it is positioned above its Note: The cylinder head must be removed
housing. To prevent damage to the sealing with the engine cold.
lips, wrap sqpne adhesive tape around the end
of the camsr aft. Removal
6 Using a h immer and a socket of suitable 1 Remove the battery as described in
diameter, d ive the seal squarely into its Chapter 5A, then undo the bolts and remove
housing. No t: Select a socket that bears only the battery tray.
on the hard xvfer surface of the seal, not the 2 Drain the cooling system as described in
12.12 Locate the new O-ring in the groove inner lip whi( h can easily be damaged. Chapter 1A.
in the endplate 7 Refit the i 9levant camshaft sprocket with 3 Remove the main and secondary timing
reference to Section 8. belts as described in Section 7.
8 Refit and ension the secondary and main 4 As the engine is currently supported
12 Camshaft oil seals - jk timing belts < s described in Section 7. using a hoist attached to the engine lifting
renewal ^ brackets bolted to the cylinder head, it is
Left-ham oil seals now necessary to attach a suitable bracket
9 The cams laft left-hand oil seals take the to the cylinder block, so that the engine can
form of O-rir gs located in the grooves in the still be supported as the cylinder head is
Right-hand oil seals camshaft car ier endplates. removed.
1 Remove the main and secondary timing 10 Unscrew the securing bolts, and remove 5 A suitable bracket can be bolted to the
belts as described in Section 7. the relevant imshaft endplate, noting that on cylinder block using spacers, and a long bolt
2 Remove the relevant camshaft sprocket as engine code kUB the ignition module securing screwed into the hole located next to the
described in Section 8. bolts secure le exhaust camshaft endplate. coolant pump (see illustration). Ideally, attach
3 Drill two small holes into the existing oil 11 Prise the »ld O-ring from the groove in the a second set of lifting tackle to the hoist, adjust
seal, diagonally opposite each other. Take endplate. the lifting tackle to support the engine using
great care to avoid drilling through into the 12 Lightly o| the new O-ring, and carefully the bracket attached to the cylinder block,
seal housing or camshaft sealing surface. locate it in t e groove in the endplate (see then disconnect the lifting tackle attached to
Thread two self-tapping screws into the holes, illustration) the bracket on the cylinder head. Alternatively,
and using a pair of pliers, pull on the heads of 13 Refit thti endplate (and the ignition temporarily support the engine under the
the screws to extract the oil seal. module, whe 'e applicable), and tighten the sump using a jack and a block of wood, then
4 Clean out the seal housing and the sealing securing bolt to the specified torque. transfer the lifting tackle from the bracket on
the cylinder head to the bracket bolted to the
cylinder block.
6 Release the hose clips, and disconnect the
two radiator hoses from the coolant housing
at the transmission end of the cylinder head
(see illustration). Similarly, release the hose
clips and disconnect the remaining three small
coolant hoses from the rear of the coolant
housing.
7 Remove the air cleaner assembly, complete
with the air trunking, as described in Chapter 4A.
8 Unscrew the bolt securing the oil level
dipstick tube bracket to the cylinder head, then
lift the dipstick tube, and turn it to one side,
to clear the working area (see illustration).
13.5 Home-made engine lifting bracket ect the radiator hoses from Release the wiring harnesses from the clip
fitted next to the coolant pump er head coolant housing on the dipstick tube bracket. Note that the
dipstick tube bracket bolt also secures the
intake manifold.
9 Unscrew the two securing bolts and
disconnect the exhaust gas recirculation
(EGR) pipe (where fitted) from the throttle
body. Recover the gasket (see illustration).
10 Unscrew the bolt securing the EGR pipe
bracket to the coolant housing.
11 Unscrew the six securing bolts (three
upper and three lower) and lift the intake
manifold back from the engine (see
illustration). Ensure that the intake manifold
is adequately supported in the engine
compartment, and take care not to strain any
13.8 Unscrew the dipstick tube bracket 13.9 Disco nect the EGR pipe from the wires, cables or hoses. Recover the O-rings if
bolt from the cylinder head throttle bo ly and recover the gasket they are loose.
1.4 litre petrol engine in-car repair procedures 2B«13

13.11 Lift the intake manifold back from 13.12 Unbolt the wiring bracket from the 13.13a Disconnect the coolant
the engine cylinder head right rear corner temperature sensor wiring plug . . .

12 Unbolt the wiring connector bracket from
the right-hand rear corner of the cylinder head
(see illustration).
13 Disconnect the wiring plug from the
coolant temperature sensor, located in the
coolant housing at the transmission end of the
cylinder head, then unclip the wiring harnesses
from the coolant housing, and move them to
one side (see illustrations).
14 Disconnect the vacuum hose from the
exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) valve (see
illustration).
15 Unclip the wiring from the bracket
attached to the exhaust heat shield, then 13.13b . . . then unclip the wiring 13.14 Disconnect the vacuum hose from
unscrew the securing bolts (two upper bolts harnesses and move them to one side the EGR valve
and one lower bolt), and remove the heat Refitting tops of the pistons. Take particular care with
shield (see illustrations). the aluminium surfaces, as the soft metal is
16 Disconnect the exhaust front section from 23 The mating faces of the cylinder head
and block must be perfectly clean before easily damaged. Make sure that debris is not
the manifold with reference to Chapter 4C. If
desired, the exhaust manifold can be removed refitting the head. Use a scraper to remove all allowed to enter the oil and water passages -
as follows: traces of gasket and carbon, also clean the this is particularly important for the oil circuit,
a) Unscrew the union nut securing the EGR
pipe to the exhaust manifold, and remove
the EGR pipe.
b) Unscrew the exhaust manifold securing
nuts, then lift off the manifold and recover
the gasket.
17 Remove the camshaft carrier, with
reference to Section 9.
18 Pull out the metal clip securing the plastic
coolant pipe to the coolant housing at the
left-hand rear corner of the cylinder head (see
illustration).
19 Progressively slacken the cylinder head
bolts in order, then unscrew and remove the 13.15a Unclip the wiring from the bracket 13.15b . . . then remove the heat shield
bolts (see illustration). on the exhaust heat shield . . .
20 With all the bolts removed, lift the cylinder
head from the block. If the cylinder head is
stuck, tap it with a soft-faced mallet to break
the joint. Do not insert a lever into the gasket
joint. As the cylinder head is lifted off, release
the coolant pump pipe from the thermostat
housing on the cylinder head.
21 Lift the cylinder head gasket from the
block.
2
Inspection
H 32040
22 Dismantling and inspection of the cylinder
head is covered in Part D of this Chapter.
V
FRONT OF CAR
Additionally, check the condition of the coolant
pump pipe-to-thermostat housing O-ring, and 13.18 Pull out the coolant pipe-to-housing 13.19 Cylinder head bolt slackening
renew if necessary. metal clip (engine removed for clarity) sequence
2B«14 1.4 litre petrol engine in-car repair procedures

13.28a Ensure that the dowels (arrowed) 13.28b and the gasket part number 13.31 Cylinder head bolt tightening
are in place in the cylinder block . . . and OBEN/ TOP markings are uppermost sequence
as carbon could block the oil supply to the 31 Working progressively, in sequence, and remove the engine undershield (see
camshaft and crankshaft bearings. Using tighten all 1 le cylinder head bolts to the illustration 3.12).
adhesive tape and paper, seal the water, oil specified Sis je 1 torque (see illustration). 2 Drain the engine oil, then clean and refit
and bolt holes in the cylinder block. To prevent 32 Again we rking progressively, in sequence, the engine oil drain plug, tightening it to the
carbon entering the gap between the pistons tighten all th cylinder head bolts through the specified torque wrench setting. If the engine
and bores, smear a little grease in the gap. specified Stc ge 2 angle. is nearing the service interval when the oil and
After cleaning a piston, rotate the crankshaft 33 Finally, t jhten all the cylinder head bolts, filter are due for renewal, it is recommended
to that the piston moves down the bore, then in sequence, to the specified Stage 3 angle. that the filter is also removed and a new one
wipe out the grease and carbon with a cloth 34 Reconne ;t the lifting tackle to the engine fitted. After reassembly, the engine can then
rag. Clean the other piston crowns in the same right-hand fting bracket on the cylinder be replenished with fresh engine oil. Refer to
way. head, then £ ljust the lifting tackle to support Chapter 1A for further information.
24 Check the head and block for nicks, the engine. Once the engine is adequately 3 Remove the exhaust front pipe with
deep scratches and other damage. If slight, supported i sing the cylinder head bracket, reference to Chapter 4C.
they may be removed carefully with a file. disconnect' ie lifting tackle from the bracket 4 Disconnect the wiring from the oil level/
More serious damage may be repaired by bolted to th j cylinder block, and unbolt the temperature sender.
machining, but this is a specialist job. improvised 3ngine lifting bracket from the 5 Unscrew the two bolts securing the sump
25 If warpage of the cylinder head is cylinder bloc <. Alternatively, remove the trolley rear flange to the transmission. On engine
suspected, use a straight-edge to check it jack and bio ;k of wood from under the sump. code BXW, undo the bolts and remove the
for distortion, as described in Part D of this 35 Refit the clip securing the plastic coolant cover plate from the transmission housing.
Chapter. pipe to the c Dolant housing. 6 Progressively unscrew and remove the
26 Ensure that the cylinder head bolt holes 36 Refit thgl camshaft carrier as described in sump retaining bolts.
in the crankcase are clean and free of oil. Section 9. 7 Break the joint by striking the sump with the
Syringe or soak up any oil left in the bolt holes. 37 Further efitting is a reversal of removal, palm of the hand, then lower the sump away
This is most important in order that the correct bearing in IT nd the following points: from the engine and withdraw it.
bolt tightening torque can be applied, and a) Refit the exhaust manifold and reconnect 8 While the sump is removed, take the
to prevent the possibility of the block being the EGF pipe, and/or reconnect the opportunity to clean the oil pump pick-up/
cracked by hydraulic pressure when the bolts exhaust 'ront section to the manifold, as strainer pipe mesh using a suitable solvent.
are tightened. describe d in Chapter 4. Inspect the strainer mesh for signs of clogging
27 Ensure that the crankshaft has been turned b) Refit the intake manifold using new or splitting and renew if necessary, referring to
to position Nos 1 and 4 pistons slightly down O-rings. Section 15 for further information.
their bores from the TDC position (see Sec- c) Reconn \ct the EGR pipe to the throttle
tion 7). This will eliminate any risk of piston-to- body us ng a new gasket.
Refitting
valve contact as the cylinder head is refitted. d) Refit th( secondary and main timing belts 9 Thoroughly clean all traces of sealant and
Also ensure that the camshaft sprockets are as desc ibed in Section 7. oil from the mating surfaces of the cylinder
locked in the TDC position using the locking e) Ensure that all wires, pipes and hoses block/crankcase and sump, then use a clean
tool, as described in Section 3. are correctly reconnected and routed, as rag to wipe out the sump and the engine's
28 Ensure that the cylinder head locating noted before removal. interior.
dowels are in place in the cylinder block, then f) Tighten ell fixings to the specified torque, 10 Apply a 2.0 to 3.0 mm diameter bead of
fit a new cylinder head gasket over the dowels, where applicable. sealant to the sump mating flange, making
ensuring that the part number is uppermost. g) On con pletion, refill the cooling system sure that the bead is around the inner edges
Where applicable, the OBEN/TOP marking as described in Chapter 1A. of the bolt holes. The bead must not exceed
should also be uppermost (see illustrations). 3.0 mm diameter. Note: The sump must
Note that Seat recommend that the gasket is be refitted within 5 minutes of applying the
only removed from its packaging immediately
14 Sum| - sealant.
prior to fitting. remcfal and refitting 11 When refitting the sump, to guide the sump
29 Lower the cylinder head into position on into position on the cylinder block mating face,
the gasket, ensuring that it engages correctly two guide studs can be improvised by cutting
over the dowels. As the cylinder head is the heads off two M6 bolts, and cutting slots
lowered into position, ensure that the coolant Remova in the ends of the bolts so that they can later
pump pipe engages with the thermostat 1 Chock 1 e rear wheels and apply the be unscrewed using a flat-bladed screwdriver.
housing (use a new O-ring if necessary). handbrake then jack up the front of the car Screw the guide studs into two diagonally
30 Fit the new cylinder head bolts, and screw and suppdjl it on axle stands (see Jacking opposite sump securing bolt holes.
them in as far as possible by hand. and vehicl support). Undo the fasteners 12 Offer the sump into position, then refit the
1.4 litre petrol engine in-car repair procedures 2B»15

sump bolts and tighten them to the specified is fitted without support brackets to manual
4V
torque. Once the sump is held securely in transmission models.
position, unscrew the guide studs, and refit 7 Remove the crankshaft sprocket, noting
the remaining two sump securing bolts. which way round it is fitted.
13 The remainder of refitting is a reversal of 8 Unscrew the securing bolts, noting their
removal. locations to ensure correct refitting, and
remove the oil pump (see illustration).
15 Oil pump- |k Recover the gasket.
removal, inspection g^ Inspection
and refitting ^
9 No spare parts are available for the oil
pump, and if worn or faulty the complete
Removal pump must be renewed.
10 To inspect the oil pump rotors, remove the
1 Remove the main timing belt as described
securing bolts, and lift off the oil pump rear
in Section 7.
cover (see illustration).
2 Turn the crankshaft a quarter-turn (90°)
11 Note that the rotors fit with the punched
clockwise to reposition Nos 1 and 4 pistons
at TDC. Ensure that the crankshaft sprocket dots on the edges of the rotors facing the oil
tooth with the chamfered inner edge is aligned pump cover (see illustration). H45856
with the corresponding mark on the oil pump 12 Lift out the rotors, and inspect them.
15.2 Crankshaft sprocket TDC timing
housing (see illustration). If there are any signs of wear or damage, mark (A)
3 Turn the crankshaft to move the crankshaft the complete oil pump assembly must be
renewed. suitable diameter (see illustration). Ensure
sprocket three teeth anti-clockwise away from that the seal seats squarely in the oil pump.
the TDC position. The third tooth to the right 13 Lubricate the contact faces of the rotors
with clean engine oil, then refit the rotors to Ensure that the socket or tube bears only on
of the tooth with the ground-down outer edge
the pump, ensuring that the punched dots on the hard outer ring of the seal, and take care
must align with the corresponding mark on the
oil pump housing. This procedure positions the edges of the rotors face the pump cover. not to damage the seal lips. Press or drive
the crankshaft correctly to enable oil pump 14 Refit the pump cover, and tighten the bolts the seal into position until it is seated on the
refitting. securely. shoulder in the housing. Make sure that the
4 Remove the timing belt tensioner as 15 Using a flat-bladed screwdriver, prise the closed end of the seal is facing outwards.
described in Section 8. crankshaft oil seal from the oil pump, and
discard it (see illustration). Refitting
5 Remove the sump as described in Section 14.
6 Unscrew the securing bolts and remove 16 Thoroughly clean the oil seal seat in the oil 18 Commence refitting by cleaning all traces
the oil pick-up pipe from the oil pump and pump. of old gasket and sealant from the mating
cylinder block (see illustration). Recover 17 Press or drive a new oil seal into position faces of the cylinder block and oil pump.
the gasket. Note: As of 06/04 a plastic pipe in the oil pump, using a socket or tube of 19 Wind a length of tape around the end of

f

Mltf I •

I,

15.6 Remove the oil pick-up pipe 15.8 Remove the oil pump 15.10 Lift off the oil pump rear cover

15.11 Note that the rotors fit with the
punched dots (arrowed) facing the oil 15.15 Prise the crankshaft oil seal from 15.17 Drive a new oil seal into the oil pump
pump cover the oil pump using a socket
2B»16 1.4 litre petrol engine in-car repair procedures

11

•^PS^F ""

15.20 Fit a new gasket over the dowels in 15.21 Align < ne of the rotor drive cut-outs (1) 15.24 Slide the oil pump over the crankshaft.
the cylinder block with the >il pump rear cover mark (2) Note the tape used to protect the oil seal

15.25 Fit the new oil pump securing bolts to the locations 15.27 Fit a new oil pick-up pipe gasket
(arrowed) noted before removal
the crankshaft to protect the oil seal lips as with the dri\. 3 cam on the crankshaft (see relief valve piston and spring are not available
the oil pump is slid into position. separately.
20 Fit a new oil pump gasket over the dowels 25 Fit new il pump securing bolts to the
in the cylinder block (see illustration). locations nollbd before removal, and tighten 17 Oil pressure jk
21 Turn the inner oil pump rotor to align one them to the s| ecified torque (see illustration). warning light switch -
of the drive cut-outs in the edge of the inner 26 Remove he tape from the end of the removal and refitting ^
rotor with the line mark on the oil pump rear crankshaft, trijen refit the crankshaft sprocket,
cover (see illustration). noting that t le pulley locating pin must be
22 Lightly oil the four tips of the oil pump outermost. Ts mporarily refit the securing bolt Removal
drive cam on the end of the crankshaft. and washer ti retain the sprocket,
23 Coat the lips of the crankshaft oil seal with 27 Refit the oil pick-up pipe, using a new 1 The oil pressure warning light switch is
a thin film of clean engine oil. gasket, and 1 ghten the securing bolts to the fitted to the left-hand end of the cylinder head.
24 Slide the oil pump into position over the specified tore je (see illustration). To gain access to the switch, remove the air
end of the crankshaft until it engages with 28 Refit the s jmp as described in Section 14. cleaner as described in Chapter 4A.
the dowels, taking care not to damage the oil 29 Refit the t ning belt tensioner as described 2 Disconnect the wiring connector and
seal, and ensuring that the inner rotor engages in Section 8. wipe clean the area around the switch (see
30 Refit the nain timing belt as described in illustration).
Section 7. 3 Unscrew the switch from the cylinder head
and remove it along with its sealing washer.
16 Oil pressure relief valve - If the switch is to be left removed from the
remov^ , inspection engine for any length of time, plug the hole in
the cylinder head.
and ref ting
Refitting
The oil pre jsure relief valve is an integral 4 Examine the sealing washer for signs of
part of the c pump. The valve piston and damage or deterioration and if necessary renew.
spring are loc jted to the side of the oil pump 5 Refit the switch, complete with washer, and
rotors and car) be inspected once the oil pump tighten it to the specified torque.
has been ren oved from the engine and the 6 Securely reconnect the wiring connector
rear cover has been removed (see Section 15). then refit the air cleaner. Check and, if
17.2 Disconnect the oil pressure switch If any sign of wear or damage is found the oil necessary, top-up the engine oil as described
wiring connector pump asseml ly will have to be renewed; the in Weekly checks.
1.4 litre petrol engine in-car repair procedures 2B»17

18 Crankshaft oil seals -
renewal

Right-hand oil seal
1 Remove the main timing belt as described
in Section 7, and the crankshaft sprocket with
reference to Section 8.
2 To remove the seal without removing the oil
pump, drill two small holes diagonally opposite
each other, insert self-tapping screws, and
pull on the heads of the screws with pliers. 19.2 Flywheel locked in position with a 19.7 Apply locking fluid to the new
3 Alternatively, the oil seal can be removed home-made tool flywheel bolts, if necessary
with the oil pump (see Section 15). home-made locking tool, fabricated from a 8 Offer up the flywheel to the crankshaft,
4 Thoroughly clean the oil seal seating in the piece of scrap metal (see illustration). Bolt it to using the alignment marks made during
oil pump. one of the transmission bellhousing mounting removal, and fit the new retaining bolts.
5 Wind a length of tape around the end of the holes. Mark the position of the flywheel with 9 Lock the flywheel using the method
crankshaft to protect the oil seal lips as the respect to the crankshaft using a dab of paint. employed on dismantling, and tighten the
seal is fitted. 3 Slacken and withdraw the flywheel mounting retaining bolts to the specified torque and
6 Fit a new oil seal to the oil pump, pressing bolts, then lift off the flywheel. angle (see illustration).
or driving it into position using a socket or tube Caution: Get an assistant to help, as the 10 Refit the clutch as described in Chapter 6.
of suitable diameter. Ensure that the socket or flywheel is extremely heavy. Remove the locking tool, and refit the trans-
tube bears only on the hard outer ring of the mission as described in Chapter 7A.
Inspection
seal, and take care not to damage the seal
lips. Press or drive the seal into position until 4 If the flywheel's clutch mating surface is Driveplate
it is seated on the shoulder in the oil pump. deeply scored, cracked or otherwise damaged,
the flywheel must be renewed. However, it Removal
Make sure that the closed end of the seal is
facing outwards. may be possible to have it surface-ground; 11 Remove the automatic transmission as
7 Refit the crankshaft sprocket with reference seek the advice of a Seat dealer or engine described in Chapter 7B.
to Section 8, and the main timing belt as reconditioning specialist. 12 Lock the driveplate in position by bolting
described in Section 7. 5 If the ring gear is badly worn or has missing a piece of scrap metal between the driveplate
teeth, the flywheel must be renewed. and one of the transmission bellhousing
Left-hand oil seal Refitting mounting holes. Mark the position of the
8 The crankshaft left-hand oil seal is integral driveplate with respect to the crankshaft using
6 Clean the mating surfaces of the flywheel a dab of paint.
with the housing, and must be renewed as
and crankshaft. Remove any remaining locking 13 Slacken and withdraw the driveplate
an assembly, complete with the crankshaft
compound from the threads of the crankshaft mounting bolts, then lift off the driveplate.
speed/position sensor wheel. The sensor
holes, using the correct-size tap, if available. Recover the packing plate and the shim
wheel is attached to the oil seal/housing
assembly, and is a press-fit on the crankshaft (where applicable).
flange. Seat special tool T10017 is required If a suitable tap is not Refitting
to fit this assembly and, in the workshop, we available, cut two slots
14 Refitting is a reversal of removal, using the
found that there is no means of accurately down the threads of one of
alignment marks made during removal, but
aligning the sensor wheel on the crankshaft the old flywheel bolts with a
initially tighten the new mounting bolts to 30 Nm
without the tool (there is no locating key, hacksaw, and use the bolt to remove the
(22 Ibf ft) only and check the distance between
and there are no alignment marks). If the locking compound from the threads.
the cylinder block and flat face of the driveplate
sensor wheel is not precisely aligned on the
- not the outer lip (see illustration). Make the
crankshaft, the crankshaft speed/position
7 If the new flywheel retaining bolts are not check at three points and calculate the average
sensor will send incorrect TDC signals to the
supplied with their threads pre-coated, apply distance which should be between 19.7 and
engine management ECM, and the engine
a suitable thread-locking compound to the 21.3 mm. If the distance measured is outside the
will not run correctly (the engine may not run
threads of each bolt (see illustration). limits, fit a different shim and check again. With
at all). As the appropriate special tool is only
available to Seat dealers, there is no alternative
but to have the new assembly fitted by a Seat
dealer.

19 Flywheel/driveplate -
removal, inspection
and refitting

Flywheel
Removal H45850
1 Remove the manual transmission and clutch
as described in Chapter 7A and Chapter 6. 19.9 Tighten the flywheel bolts to the 19.14 The distance between cylinder block
2 Lock the flywheel in position using a specified torque and driveplate should be 19.7 to 21.3 mm
2B»18 1.4 litre petrol engine in-car repair procedures

the distance correct, fully tighten the mounting Renewal four securing bolts and remove the battery
bolts to their specified torque and angle. tray.
15 Remove the locking tool, and refit the Right-hand ounting 13 Where applicable, to improve access to
transmission as described in Chapter 7B. Note: New anting securing bolts/nut will the engine-transmission mounting, remove the
be required o, refitting. air cleaner assembly as described in Chap-
20 Engine/transmission 5 Attach a hoist and lifting tackle to the ter 4A.
mountings - I engine lifting Brackets on the cylinder head,
and raise the hoist to just take the weight of
14 Unscrew the bolts securing the mounting
to the transmission, and the bolts securing the
inspection and renewal
I the engine. / ternatively the engine can be
supported on a trolley jack under the engine,
mounting to the body, then lift the mounting
from the engine compartment.
Inspection Use a block c f wood between the sump and 15 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but
the head of t e jack, to prevent any damage tighten the new bolts to the specified torque.
1 If improved access is required, jack up the to the sump. I
front of the car, and support it securely on Rear mounting
6 Unbolt the coolant reservoir and move
axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle support). it to one sic e, leaving the coolant hoses Note: New mounting bolts will be required on
Remove the securing bolts and remove the connected. refitting.
engine undershield (see illustration 3.12). 7 Unscrew trie bolts securing the mounting 16 Apply the handbrake, then jack up the
2 Check the mounting rubbers to see if they to the bracket on the engine, and the bolts front of the car and support securely on axle
are cracked, hardened or separated from the securing the mounting to the body, then lift stands (see Jacking and vehicle support).
metal at any point; renew the mounting if any the mountingprom the engine compartment. 17 Remove the engine undershield, then
such damage or deterioration is evident. support the transmission with a trolley jack
8 Unscrew tme centre nut and separate the
3 Check that all the mounting fasteners are bracket from the mounting. and block of wood.
securely tightened; use a torque wrench to 9 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but tighten 18 Working under the car, loosen the nut and
check if possible. the new boltaand nut to the specified torque. bolt securing the rear mounting link to the
4 Using a large screwdriver or a crowbar, transmission bracket.
check for wear in the mounting by carefully Left-hand i lounting 19 Unscrew and remove the two bolts
levering against it to check for free play. Note: New n\ bolts will be required on securing the mounting assembly to the
Where this is not possible, enlist the aid of refitting. transmission.
an assistant to move the engine/transmission 10 Remove the engine undershield, then 20 Unscrew the single bolt securing the
back-and-forth, or from side-to-side, whilst support the transmission with a trolley jack mounting link to the subframe, then withdraw
you observe the mounting. While some and block of wood. the assembly from under the car.
free play is to be expected, even from new 11 Remove the battery, as described in 21 Unscrew the nut and bolt and separate
components, excessive wear should be Chapter 5A, :hen disconnect the main starter the link from the bracket.
obvious. If excessive free play is found, motor feed ;able from the positive battery 22 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but
check first that the fasteners are correctly terminal box, use new mounting bolts (except the link-to-
secured, then renew any worn components as 12 Release my relevant wiring or hoses from bracket bolt), and tighten all fixings to the
described in the following paragraphs. the clips on Ihe battery tray, then unscrew the specified torque.
2O1

Chapter 2 Part C:
Diesel engine in-car repairprocedures
Contents Section number Section number
Balancer shaft unit (3-cylinder engines) - removal and refitting . . . . 21 Flywheel - removal, inspection and refitting 16
Camshaft and hydraulic tappets - removal, inspection and refitting. . 10 General information 1
Camshaft cover - removal and refitting 4 Hydraulic tappets - testing 11
Camshaft oil seals - renewal 12 Oil pressure warning light switch - removal and refitting 20
Compression and leakdown tests - description and interpretation. . 2 Oil pump, drive chain and sprockets - removal, inspection and
Crankshaft oil seals - renewal 17 refitting 15
Crankshaft pulley - removal and refitting 5 Pump injector rocker shaft assembly - removal and refitting 9
Cylinder head - removal, inspection and refitting 13 Sump - removal and refitting 14
Engine assembly and valve timing marks - general information and Timing belt - removal, inspection and refitting 7
usage 3 Timing belt covers - removal and refitting 6
Engine oil cooler - removal and refitting 19 Timing belt tensioner and sprockets - removal and refitting 8
Engine/transmission mountings - inspection and renewal 18

Degrees of difficulty
Easy, suitable for Fairly easy, suitable Fairly difficult, |^> Difficult, suitable Very difficult,
novice with little : for beginner with suitable for competent ^ for experienced DIY suitable for expert
experience some experience 2 DIY mechanic sj mechanic DIY or professional

Specifications
General
Type Three- or four-cylinder in-line, belt-driven single overhead camshaft
(SOHC), four stroke, liquid-cooled
Manufacturer's engine codes:*
1422 cc (1.4 litre), 3-cylinder AMF, BMS, BNM and BNV
1896 cc (1.9 litre), 4-cylinder ASZ, ATD, AXR, BLT and BMT
Maximum power output:
Engine code AMF 55kW at 4000 rpm
Engine code BMS 59kW at 4000 rpm
Engine code BNM 51 kW at 4000 rpm
Engine code BNV 58kW at 4000 rpm
Engine codes ASZ and BLT 96 kW at 4000 rpm
Engine codes ATD, AXR and BMT 74 kW at 4000 rpm
Maximum torque output:
Engine codes AMF, BMS and BNV 195 Nm at 2200 rpm
Engine code BNM 155 Nm at 2200 rpm
Engine codes ASZ and BLT 310 Nm at 1900 rpm
Engine codes ATD, AXR and BMT 240 Nm at 1800 to 2400 rpm
Bore 79.5 mm
Stroke 95.5 mm
Compression ratio:
Three-cylinder engines 19.5 : 1
Four-cylinder engines 19.0 : 1
Compression pressures:
Minimum compression pressure Approximately 19.0 bar
Maximum difference between cylinders Approximately 5.0 bar
Firing order:
Three-cylinder engines 1-2-3
Four-cylinder engines 1-3-4-2
No 1 cylinder location Timing belt end
* Note: See 'Vehicle identification' at the end of this manual for the location of engine code markings.

Camshaft
Camshaft endfloat (maximum) 0.15 mm
Camshaft bearing running clearance (maximum) 0.11 mm
Camshaft run-out (maximum) 0.01 mm
2O2 Diesel engine in-car repair procedures

Lubrication system
Oil pump type Gear type, chain-driven from eninkshaft
Oil pressure (oil temperature 80°C at 2000 rpm). . .. 2.0 bar

Torque wrench settings Nm Ibfft
Ancillary (alternator etc) bracket mounting bolts 45 33
Auxiliary drivebelt tensioner securing bolt 25 18
Balancer shaft assembly to crankcase (3-cylinder engines) . . 20 15
Balancer shaft drive chain tensioner housing (3-cylinder engin »):
Stage 1 8 6
Stage 2 . .. .. Angle-tighten a further 90°
Balancer shaft weight/sprocket (3-cylinder engines):*
Stage 1 1 00 74
Stage 2 Angle-tighten a further 90°
Big-end bearing caps bolts:*
Stage 1 30 22
Stage 2 Angle-tighten a further 90°
Camshaft bearing cap bolts:*
Stage 1 8 6
Stage 2 Angle-tighten a further 90°
Camshaft cover nuts/bolts 10 7
Camshaft sprocket hub centre bolt 1 00 74
Camshaft sprocket outer bolts:
Stage 1 20 15
Stage 2 Angle-tighten a further 45°
Coolant pump bolts 15 11
Crankshaft oil seal housing bolts 15 11
Crankshaft pulley-to-sprocket bolts:
Stage 1 10 7
Stage 2 Angle-tighten a further 90°
Crankshaft speed/position sensor wheel-to-crankshaft bolts:*
Stage 1 10 7
Stage 2 Angle-tighten a further 90°
Crankshaft sprocket bolt:*
Stage 1 120 89
Stage 2 Angle-tighten a further 90°
Cylinder head bolts:*
Stage 1 40 30
Stage 2 60 44
Stage 3 Angle-tighten a further 90°
Stage 4 . . . . Angle-tighten a further 90°
Engine mountings:
Right-hand mounting:*
To engine:
Stage 1 30 22
Stage 2 Angle-tighten a further 90°
To body:
Stage 1 20 15
Stage 2 Anale-tiahten a further 90°
Centre nut:
Stage 1 40 30
Staae 2 . . Anale-tiahten a further 90°
Left-hand mounting:
To transmission:*
Stage 1 40 30
Stage 2 Angle tighten a further 90°
To body:
Stage 1 50 37
Stage 2 Angle tighten a further 90°
Rear torque arm:*
To subframe:
Stage 1 40 30
Stage 2 Angle- tighten a further 90°
To transmission:
Stage 1 30 22
Stage 2 Angle- tighten a further 90°
Exhaust manifold nuts 25 18
Exhaust pipe-to-manifold/turbocharger nuts. 25 18
Diesel engine in-car repair procedures 2O3

Torque wrench settings (continued) Mm ibf ft
Flywheel:
Stage 1 60 44
Stage 2 Angle-tighten a further 90°
Fuel injector pipe union nuts 25 18
Glow plugs 15 11
Guide pulley sprocket bolt (3-cylinder engines) 20 15
Injection pump sprocket bolts:
Type 1 :*
Stage 1 20 15
Stage 2 Angle-tighten a further 90°
Type 2 25 18
Injector rocker shafts:*
Stage 1 20 15
Stage 2 Angle-tighten a further 90°
Main bearing cap bolts:*
Stage 1 65 48
Stage 2 Angle-tighten a further 90°
Oil cooler retaining cap 25 18
Oil drain plug 30 22
Oil filter housing-to-cylinder block bolts:*
Stage 1 15 11
Stage 2 Angle-tighten a further 90°
Oil filter cap 25 18
Oil level/temperature sensor-to-sump bolts 10 7
Oil pick-up pipe securing bolts 15 11
Oil pressure relief valve plug 40 30
Oil pressure warning light switch 20 15
Oil pump chain tensioner bolt 15 11
Oil pump securing bolts 15 11
Oil pump sprocket securing bolt/nut:
3-cylinder engines:
Stage 1 20 15
Stage 2 Angle-tighten a further 90°
4-cylinder engines 25 18
Piston oil spray jet bolt 25 18
Pump injector rocker shaft:*
Stage 1 20 15
Stage 2 Angle-tighten a further 90°
Roadwheel bolts 120 89
Sump:
Sump-to-cylinder block bolts 15 11
Sump-to-transmission bolts 45 33
Timing belt outer cover bolts 10 7
Timing belt rear cover-to-cylinder head bolt 10 7
Timing belt small idler pulley nut/bolt 20 15
Timing belt tensioner roller securing nut:
Stage 1 20 15
Stage 2 Angle-tighten a further 45°
Timing belt upper idler roller bolt 20 15
Turbocharger oil return pipe-to-cylinder block banjo bolt 40 30
Turbocharger oil supply pipe-to-oil filter housing:
Banjo bolt 25 18
Union nut 22 16
* Do not re-use
preliminary dismantling procedures can be Part D describes the removal of the engine/
1 General information ignored. transmission from the car and the full overhaul
Note that while it may be possible physically procedures that can then be carried out.
to overhaul items such as the piston/
connecting rod assemblies while the engine is Engine description
in the car, such tasks are not usually carried The engines are water-cooled, single
Using this Chapter out as separate operations, and usually require overhead camshaft, in-line three- or
This Part of Chapter 2 describes those repair the execution of several additional procedures four-cylinder units, with cast-iron cylinder
procedures that can reasonably be carried out (not to mention the cleaning of components blocks and aluminium-alloy cylinder heads.
on the engine while it remains in the car. If the and of oilways); for this reason, all such tasks All are mounted transversely at the front of
engine has been removed from the car and is are classed as major overhaul procedures, the car, with the transmission bolted to the
being dismantled as described in Part D, any and are described in Part D of this Chapter. left-hand end of the engine.
2O4 Diesel engine in-car repair procedures

by a pump, dri en by the timing belt. For details 5 Have your assistant crank the engine for
of the cooling ystem, refer to Chapter 3. several seconds on the starter motor. After
one or two revolutions, the compression
Repairs with engine in car pressure should build-up to a maximum figure
The followir g operations can be performed and then stabilise. Record the highest reading
without remou ng the engine: obtained.
a) Compression pressure - testing. 6 Repeat the test on the remaining cylinders,
b) Camshaft ~over - removal and refitting. recording the pressure in each.
c) Cranksha \ - removal and refitting, 7 The cause of poor compression is less
d) Timing be covers - removal and refitting. easy to establish on a diesel engine than on a
e) Timing b 1 - removal, refitting and petrol engine. The effect of introducing oil into
adjustme the cylinders (wet testing) is not conclusive,
f) Timing b tensioner and sprockets - because there is a risk that the oil will sit in
2.3 Disconnect the injector solenoids removal \d refitting. the recess on the piston crown, instead of
wiring plug connector (arrowed) g) Camshaftl i// seals - renewal. passing to the rings. However, the following
On the 3-cylinder engine, the crankshaft h) Camshaft] \nd hydraulic tappets - can be used as a rough guide to diagnosis.
is of four-bearing type, and thrustwashers removal, ispection and refitting. 8 All cylinders should produce very similar
are fitted to main bearing No 3 to control i) Cylinder /• sad - removal and refitting. pressures. Any difference greater than
crankshaft endfloat. On 4-cylinder engines, j) Cylinder t ead and pistons - that specified indicates the existence of
the crankshaft is of five-bearing type, and decarbon ting. a fault. Note that the compression should
thrustwashers are fitted to the centre main k) Sump - n moval and refitting. build-up quickly in a healthy engine. Low
bearing. I) Oil pump 'except 3-cylinder engines) - compression on the first stroke, followed by
The camshaft is driven by a toothed timing removal, < verhaul and refitting. gradually increasing pressure on successive
belt from the crankshaft. The camshaft is m) Cranksh t oil seals - renewal. strokes, indicates worn piston rings. A low
mounted at the top of the cylinder head, and n) Engine/t nsmission mountings - compression reading on the first stroke, which
is secured by bearing caps. inspectio and renewal. does not build-up during successive strokes,
The valves are closed by coil springs, and o) Flywheel removal, inspection and indicates leaking valves or a blown head
run in guides pressed into the cylinder head. refitting. gasket (a cracked head could also be the
The camshaft actuates the valves directly, via Note: It is pc >sible to remove the pistons and cause).
hydraulic tappets. On the 3-cylinder engine connecting ids (after removing the cylinder 9 A low reading from two adjacent cylinders
there are six valves, one intake and one head and sut ip) without removing the engine. is almost certainly due to the head gasket
exhaust valve per cylinder. On the 4-cylinder However, tr is not recommended. Work having blown between them and the presence
engine there are eight valves, one intake and of this natur is more easily and thoroughly of coolant in the engine oil will confirm this.
one exhaust valve per cylinder. completed with the engine on the bench, as 10 On completion, remove the compression
A chain-driven balancer shaft assembly described in Chapter 2D. tester, and refit the glow plugs, with reference
is bolted to the bottom of the crankcase on to Chapter 5A.
the 3-cylinder engine. The balancer shaft Compression 11 Reconnect the wiring.
counteracts vibrations within the engine to and idakdown tests -
provide smooth running throughout the engine description and interpretation
. Leakdown test
speed range. ^ 12 A leakdown test measures the rate at
On the 3-cylinder engine, an oil pump which compressed air fed into the cylinder
is located on the bottom of the balancer is lost. It is an alternative to a compression
shaft assembly and is driven by chain from
Compre ion test
test, and in many ways it is better, since the
a sprocket on the crankshaft. The balancer Note: A co press/on fester suitable for use escaping air provides easy identification of
shaft assembly and the oil pump are enclosed with diesel \ngines will be required for this where pressure loss is occurring (piston rings,
in a plastic cover which incorporates an oil test. valves or head gasket).
strainer. On all 4-cylinder engines, the oil 1 When en ine performance is down, or if 13 The equipment required for leakdown
pump is chain-driven from the end of the misfiring o urs which cannot be attributed testing is unlikely to be available to the home
crankshaft. to the igniti or fuel systems, a compression mechanic. If poor compression is suspected,
From the sump, the oil is forced through test can pr vide diagnostic clues as to the have the test performed by a suitably-
an externally-mounted, renewable filter. From engine's c dition. If the test is performed equipped garage.
there it is distributed to the cylinder head, regularly, it |an give warning of trouble before
where it lubricates the camshaft journals and any other s ptoms become apparent.
2 The engi e must be fully warmed-up to
Engine assembly
hydraulic tappets, and also to the crankcase,
where it lubricates the main bearings,
connecting rod big-ends, gudgeon pins and
normal op ating temperature, the battery
must be full -charged and you will require the
and valve timing marks -
general information and usage 1
cylinder bores. A coolant-fed oil cooler is fitted aid of an as istant.
to the oil filter housing on all engines. Oil jets 3 Disconn ct the injector solenoids by
are fitted to the base of each cylinder - these unplugging he connector at the end of the General information
spray oil onto the underside of the pistons, to cylinder he d (see illustration). Note: As a 1 TDC is the highest point in the cylinder that
improve cooling. result of th wiring being disconnected, faults each piston reaches as it travels up-and-down
All engines are fitted with a brake servo will be sfor in the ECM memory. These must when the crankshaft turns. Each piston
vacuum pump driven by the camshaft on the be erased a ter the compression test. reaches TDC at the end of the compression
transmission end of the cylinder head. On 4 Remove he glow plugs as described in stroke and again at the end of the exhaust
all engines, the pump is of tandem design, Chapter 5A then fit a compression tester to stroke, but TDC generally refers to piston
incorporating a vacuum pump and a fuel the No 1 inder glow plug hole. The type of position on the compression stroke. No 1
pump, driven by the camshaft. tester whic i screws into the plug thread is piston is at the timing belt end of the engine.
On all engines, engine coolant is circulated preferred. 2 Positioning No 1 piston at TDC is an
Diesel engine in-car repair procedures 2O5

3.6 TDC locking pin (arrowed) inserted
3.4a Release the clips . . . 3.4b . . . and remove the upper outer through the camshaft sprocket into the
timing belt cover cylinder head

3.13a Position the crankshaft so the sprocket 3.13b . . . then insert the tool T10050 . . . 3.13c . . . and align the marks (arrowed) on
mark is almost vertical (arrowed)... the tool and sprocket
essential part of many procedures, such as this reason, it is important to ensure that to lock the crankshaft sprocket in the TDC
timing belt removal and camshaft removal. the camshaft and crankshaft do not move in position.
3 The design of the engines covered in this relation to each other once the timing belt has 9 Remove the auxiliary drivebelt(s) as
Chapter is such that piston-to-valve contact been removed from the engine. described in Chapter 1B. Also, remove the
may occur if the camshaft or crankshaft is auxiliary drivebelt tensioning unit.
turned with the timing belt removed. For Setting TDC on No 1 cylinder
10 Remove the crankshaft pulley/vibration
3-cylinder engines damper as described in Section 5.
4 Remove the timing belt covers as described 11 Remove the timing belt covers as
T10050 in Section 6 (see illustrations). described in Section 6.
5 Remove the glow plugs, as described in 12 Remove the glow plugs, as described in
Chapter 5A, to allow the engine to turn more Chapter 5A, to allow the engine to turn more
easily. easily.
6 Turn the engine until the TDC hole in the 13 Using a spanner or socket on the
camshaft sprocket is approximately at the crankshaft sprocket bolt, turn the crankshaft
8 o'clock position and aligned with the TDC in the normal direction of rotation (clockwise)
timing hole in the cylinder head; at this point until the alignment mark on the face of the
a special Seat locking pin (T20102) may be sprocket is almost vertical (see illustrations).
inserted (see illustration). An improvised tool 14 The arrow (marked 4Z) on the rear section
may be fabricated out of 6.0 mm diameter of the upper timing belt upper cover aligns
metal rod, but due to the exact measurements between the two lugs on the rear of the
and machining involved, it is strongly camshaft hub sender wheel (see illustration).
recommended that the tool is either borrowed
T10100 or hired from a Seat dealer, or purchased from
a reputable tool manufacturer.
7 While in this position it should be possible to
insert Seat tool T10050 to lock the crankshaft
(see illustration 3.13b). Note: The mark on the
crankshaft sprocket and the mark on the Seat
tool 77 0050 must align, whilst at the same time
the shaft of tool 770050 must engage in the
drilling in the crankshaft oil seal housing.
8 The engine is now set to TDC on No 1 cyl-
inder.
H46293 4-cylinder engines
Note: Seat special tool (770050 for early 3.14 Alignment arrow on the rear of the
3.13d TDC setting tools models or 770700 for later models) is required timing belt cover (arrowed)
2O6 Diesel engine in-car repair procedure

i

3.15 Insert a 6 mm drill bit (arrowed) to 4.11 The camshaft cover gasket locates in 4.13a Apply sealant to the points (arrowed)
lock the camshaft B groove in the cover on the cylinder head
15 While in this position it should be possible 6 Progressively unscrew and remove the a) Before refitting the camshaft cover,
to insert Seat tool T10050 or T10100 to lock camshaft opver retaining bolts and lift the apply a small amount of sealant to the
the crankshaft, and a 6 mm diameter rod to cover away If it sticks, do not attempt to lever two points where the camshaft bearing
lock the camshaft sprocket (see illustration). it off - instead free it by working around the caps contact the cylinder head (see
Note: The mark on the crankshaft sprocket cover and tapping it lightly with a soft-faced illustration). Ensure that the gasket is
and the mark on the Seat tool T10050 or mallet. correctly seated on the cylinder head,
T10100 must align, whilst at the same time the 7 Recover 1 he camshaft cover gasket. Inspect and take care to avoid displacing it as the
shaft of the tool must engage in the drilling in the gasket carefully, and renew it if damage or camshaft cover is lowered into position.
the crankshaft oil seal housing. deterioration is evident. b) Tighten the camshaft cover retaining nuts/
16 The engine is now set to TDC on No 1 cyl- 8 Clean th< mating surfaces of the cylinder bolts progressively to the specified torque
inder. head and camshaft cover thoroughly, removing in sequence (see illustration).
all traces of oil and old gasket - take care to
4 Camshaft cover - |k avoid damaging the surfaces as you do this. 5 Crankshaft pulley - ^
removal and refitting 4-cylinder engines removal and refitting ^
9 Remove trie oil filler cap, then prise off and
withdraw tije engine top covers(s) (where
Removal fitted) from [he supports. Where applicable,
disconnect the breather hose from the Removal
3-cylinder engines camshaft c 1 For improved access, raise the front
1 Remove the engine top cover (where fitted) 10 Unscre the camshaft cover retaining right-hand side of the car, and support
by prising it upwards from the location pillars bolts and lil the cover away. If it sticks, do securely on axle stands (see Jacking and
and disconnecting the vacuum pipes. Also not attempt :o lever it off - instead free it by vehicle support). Remove the road wheel.
remove the foam base. working aro nd the cover and tapping it lightly 2 Remove the securing Torx bolts and
2 Remove the intake air ducting from the rear with a soft-f .ced mallet. withdraw the engine undershield(s) and/
of the cylinder head. 11 Recover the camshaft cover gasket (see or wheel arch liner panels. Unscrew the nut
3 Release the clip and disconnect the illustration) Inspect the gasket carefully, and at the rear, and the washer-type fasteners
crankcase ventilation hose from the camshaft renew it if d£ lage or deterioration is evident, further forward, then release the air hose clip
cover. 12 Clean t mating surfaces of the cylinder and manipulate out the plastic air duct for the
4 Unclip the fuel lines from the front of the head and ca shaft cover thoroughly, removing intercooler (see illustration).
camshaft cover. all traces of and old gasket - take care to 3 Remove the auxiliary drivebelt, as described
5 Remove the upper timing belt cover as avoid dama ng the surfaces as you do this. in Chapter 1 B.
described in Section 6. 4 Where applicable, prise the cover from the
Refitting \3 Refit th centre of the pulley to expose the securing
camshaft cover by following bolts (see illustration).
the removal irocedure in reverse, noting the 5 Slacken the bolts securing the crankshaft
following poi its: pulley to the sprocket (see illustration). If

13 9) (7 3) 6) 11) 12
s
4.13b Camshaft cover tightening 5.2 Remojle the intercooler air duct for 5.4 Prise out the crankshaft pulley centre
sequence accessi to the crankshaft pulley cap
Diesel engine in-car repair procedures 2O7

necessary, the pulley can be prevented from
turning by counterholding with a spanner or
socket on the crankshaft sprocket bolt.
6 Unscrew the bolts securing the pulley to
the sprocket, and remove the pulley (see
illustration).
Refitting
7 Refit the pulley over the locating peg on
the crankshaft sprocket, then refit the pulley
securing bolts.
8 Prevent the crankshaft from turning as
during removal, then fit the pulley securing
bolts, and tighten to the specified torque. 5.5 Undo the four crankshaft pulley bolts 5.6 Remove the crankshaft pulley
9 Refit and tension the auxiliary drivebelt as (arrowed)
described in Chapter 1B.
10 Refit the engine undershield(s), wheel arch Rear cover drives the coolant pump. Should the belt slip
liners and the intercooler air duct. 13 Remove the upper, centre and lower or break in service, the valve timing will be
11 Refit the roadwheel, lower the car to the covers as described previously. disturbed and piston-to-valve contact may
ground, and tighten the roadwheel bolts to the 14 Remove the timing belt, tensioner and occur, resulting in serious engine damage. For
specified torque. sprockets as described in Sections 7 and 8. this reason, it is important that the timing belt
15 Slacken and withdraw the retaining bolts is tensioned correctly, and inspected regularly
6 Timing belt covers - §^ and lift the timing belt inner cover from the for signs of wear or deterioration.
removal and refitting JjS studs on the end of the engine, and remove it 2 Remove the right-hand headlight as
from the engine compartment. described in Chapter 12, and the intake
16 Refitting is a reversal of removal. manifold-to-intercooler air trunking as
described in Chapter 4C.
Upper outer cover 3 Apply the handbrake, then jack up the front
7 Timing belt - of the car and support securely on axle stands
1 Pull the plastic engine cover(s) upwards removal, inspection (see Jacking and vehicle support). Remove the
from its retaining clips. and refitting right-hand front roadwheel.
2 Release the retaining clips and remove the
air intake hose from across the top of the 4 Remove the securing bolts and withdraw
timing belt cover (see illustration). the engine undershield(s) (see illustration),
Removal and the right-hand wheel arch liner.
3 Release the uppermost part of the timing
belt outer cover by prising open the metal 1 The primary function of the toothed timing 5 Using a hoist, support the weight of
spring clips, then withdraw the cover away belt is to drive the camshaft, but it also the engine/transmission, then remove the
from the engine (see illustrations).
4 Refitting is a reversal of removal, noting that
the lower edge of the upper cover engages
with the centre cover.
Centre outer cover
5 Remove the auxiliary drivebelt as described
in Chapter 1B.
6 Remove the crankshaft pulley as described
in Section 5. It is assumed that, if the centre
cover is being removed, the lower cover
will be also - if not, simply remove the
components described in Section 5 for access
to the crankshaft pulley, and leave the pulley
in position. 6.2 Remove the air intake hose from 6.3a Release the retaining clips (one
7 With the upper cover removed (paragraphs 1 across the top of the timing belt cover arrowed)...
to 3), unscrew and remove the retaining bolts
from the centre cover. Withdraw the centre cover
from the engine (noting how it fits over the lower
cover, where applicable) (see illustration).
8 Refitting is a reversal of removal.
Lower outer cover
9 Remove the upper and centre covers as
described previously.
10 If not already done, remove the crankshaft
pulley as described in Section 5.
11 Unscrew the remaining bolt(s) securing
the lower cover, and lift it out.
12 Refitting is a reversal of removal; locate
the centre cover in place before fitting the top 6.3b . . . and withdraw the upper cover 6.7 Remove the centre outer cover
two bolts.
2O8 Diesel engine in-car repair procedure;

7.4 Undo the bolts (arrowed) and remove 7.5a Use a trolley jack to support the 7.5b Remove the right-hand engine
the engine undershield weight of the engine/transmission mounting ...

7.5c . . . and bracket 7.6a Unscrew the bolts 7.6b . . . and remove the auxiliary drivebelt
tensioner

right-hand engine mounting and bracket, and unbolt the uxiliary drivebelt tensioner (see the hoses if necessary, to ensure correct
the engine rear mounting/link as described in illustration refitting.
Chapter 2A (see illustrations). t the fuel supply and return 8 If required, to further improve working room,
6 Remove the auxiliary drivebelt as described he fuel filter (see illustration), remove the windscreen washer reservoir
in Chapter 1B. On 3-cylinder engines, also hapter 1B if necessary. Label (Chapter 12) and the coolant expansion
reservoir (see illustration), and place them to
one side without disconnecting their hoses.
9 Remove the timing belt outer covers,
as described in Section 6. This procedure
includes removing the crankshaft pulley as
described in Section 5. Where applicable,
unbolt the lower inner cover (see illustration).
3-cylinder engines
10 Remove the charge air pipe and hose
located at the bottom right of the engine, also
the intake pipe from the right-hand side of the
engine compartment (see illustrations).
7.8 Discon ct the wiring from the coolant 11 Turn the crankshaft to position No 1 piston
7.7 Fuel supply (A) and return (B) hoses at expansion nk. Note the tank mounting at TDC on its firing stroke (see Section 3) and
the fuel filter nuts (arrowed) lock the camshaft sprocket by inserting a

7.9 Lower inner cover e the charge air pipe from the 7.10b Remove the intake pipe from the
m right of the engine engine compartment
Diesel engine in-car repair procedures 2O9

7.11 a Tool T10050 for locking the crankshaft sprocket in its TDC 7.11b Use the special locking tool (arrowed) to retain the
position crankshaft sprocket in its TDC position
tight-fitting bolt through the TDC hole into the markings that indicate the direction of rotation. contamination by coolant or lubricant. If this is
cylinder head. Seat technicians also use a tool If none are present, make your own using the case, find the source of the contamination
(T10050) to lock the crankshaft sprocket in its typist's correction fluid or a dab of paint - do before progressing any further. Check the
TDC position (see illustrations). not cut or score the belt in any way. belt for signs of wear or damage, particularly
12 If the original timing belt is to be refitted, Caution: If the belt appears to be in good around the leading edges of the belt teeth.
mark the running direction of the belt, to condition and can be re-used, it is essential Renew the belt if its condition is in doubt; the
ensure correct refitting (see illustration). that it is refitted the same way around, cost of belt renewal is negligible compared
Caution: If the belt appears to be in good otherwise accelerated wear will result, with potential cost of the engine repairs,
condition and can be re-used, it is essential leading to premature failure. should the belt fail in service. The belt must be
that it is refitted the same way around, 20 Slide the belt off the sprockets, taking renewed if it has covered the mileage given in
otherwise accelerated wear will result, care to avoid twisting or kinking it excessively Chapter 1B, however, if it has covered less, it
leading to premature failure. if it is to be re-used. is prudent to renew it regardless of condition
13 Slacken the timing belt tensioner nut, and as a precautionary measure.
allow the tensioner to relieve the tension on Inspection 22 If the timing belt is not going to be refitted
the timing belt (see illustration). 21 Examine the belt for evidence of for some time, it is a wise precaution to hang a
14 Unscrew the nut and remove the timing
belt guide pulley (see illustration).
15 Slide the belt from the sprockets, taking
care not to twist or kink the belt excessively if
it is to be re-used (see illustration).
4-cylinder engines
16 Set the engine to TDC on No 1 cylinder as
described in Section 3.
17 Relieve the tension on the timing belt by
first slackening the tensioner mounting nut
slightly. Turn the tensioner fully anti-clockwise
by hand.
18 Undo the bolt and remove the idler roller
(where fitted) (see illustration). 7.12 Mark the running direction of the 7.13 Slacken the timing belt tensioner nut
19 Examine the timing belt for manufacturer's timing belt if it is to be re-used

7.14 Timing belt guide pulley (arrowed) 7.15 Remove the timing belt from the 7.18 Idler roller bolt (arrowed)
sprockets
2O10 Diesel engine in-car repair procedures

the tensioner pointer in the
7.23 Hold the camshaft sprocket -out (arrowed), then tighten 7.26b The pointer must be in the middle of
stationary while loosening the three bolts the nut the cut-out

warning label on the steering wheel, to remind pm can rem n in position, but the holding 35 Ensure that any slack in the belt is in the
yourself (and others) not to attempt to start tool must tah most of the torque pressure, section of belt that passes over the tensioner
the engine. Remove the tool after fully tightening the roller.
bolts. 36 Check that the arm on the tensioner rear
Refitting 28 With the TDC pins removed, turn the plate is correctly located in the hole of the rear
3-cylinder engines engine two mplete turns clockwise, then timing cover.
re-insert the DC pins to confirm the valve 37 Loosen the tensioner mounting nut
23 If still fitted, remove the TDC pin from the
timing. Do n turn the engine anti-clockwise slightly, then use circlip pliers or Allen key (as
camshaft sprocket, then hold the sprocket
at any time t insert the pins. applicable) to turn the tensioner clockwise
stationary with a suitable tool and loosen the
29 The rem ning procedure is a reversal of until the pointer is located in the middle of
three bolts securing it to the camshaft, so that
removal. the base plate gap. Hold the tensioner in this
it is free to turn within the three elongated
slots (see illustration). Turn the sprocket anti- 4-cylinder Engines position and tighten the mounting nut to the
clockwise so that the bolts are near the ends specified torque and angle. Note that the
30 Ensure tl [at the crankshaft and camshaft
of the slots, then refit the TDC pin. pointer will turn a maximum of 5.0 mm to the
are still set to TDC on No 1 cylinder, as
24 Fit the timing belt around the crankshaft right when the nut is tightened, however, this
described in Section 3.
sprocket, tensioner pulley, camshaft sprocket 31 Slacken the camshaft sprocket bolts must not be corrected since the timing belt
and coolant pump. Make sure that the by half a tur i so that the sprocket is free to settles during the running-in period.
tensioner pulley arm is correctly located turn. Positio i the camshaft sprocket so that 38 Tighten the camshaft sprocket bolts
in the rear timing cover hole. Check that the securing Dolts are in the centre part of the to the specified torque and angle, remove
the camshaft sprocket retaining bolts are elongated he les (see illustration). the sprocket locking pin and the crankshaft
positioned mid-way in their slots. If not, 32 Loop th ; timing belt loosely under the locking tool.
remove the timing belt and turn the sprocket crankshaft sprocket. Note: Observe any 39 Using a spanner or wrench and socket on
slightly clockwise so that the belt can be direction of rotation markings on the belt. the crankshaft pulley centre bolt, rotate the
located on the next tooth. 33 Engage the timing belt teeth with the crankshaft through two complete revolutions.
25 Refit the guide pulley and tighten the nut. camshaft sprocket, then manoeuvre it Reset the engine to TDC on No 1 cylinder,
26 Using an Allen key in the hole provided, into position around the tensioning roller, with reference to Section 3 and check that the
turn the tensioner anti-clockwise until the crankshaft sprocket, and finally around the setting tools can be inserted. If not, repeat the
pointer is positioned in the middle of the coolant purnip sprocket. Make sure that the refitting procedure.
cut-out of the baseplate. Hold the tensioner belt teeth seat correctly on the sprockets. 40 Further refitting is a reversal of the removal
in this position, then tighten the retaining Note: S//gnr adjustment to the position of procedure. When refitting the lower timing belt
nut to the specified torque and angle (see the camshaft sprocket may be necessary to cover and the crankshaft pulley, note that the
illustrations). achieve this. Avoid bending the belt back offset of the pulley mounting holes allows only
27 Tighten the bolts of the camshaft sprocket on itself or \rwisting it excessively as you do one fitting position - tighten the bolts to the
to their specified torque and angle while this. specified torque.
holding the sprocket stationary with a suitable 34 Refit th| idler roller and tighten the bolt to
tool inserted in two of the holes. The TDC the specifiejjl torque (see illustration). 8 Timing belt tensioner
and sprockets - ^
removal and refitting ^

Timing belt tensioner
1 Remove the timing belt as described in
Section 7.
2 Unscrew the timing belt tensioner nut, and
remove the tensioner from the engine (see
illustration).
3 Refitting is a reversal of removal, with
reference to Section 7 when refitting the timing
belt. Make sure that the tensioner pulley arm
7.31 Camshaft sprocket bolts central in 34 Refit the idler roller is correctly located in the rear timing cover
the elongated holes hole (see illustration).
Diesel engine in-car repair procedures 2O11

Idler pulleys
4 Remove the timing belt as described in
Section 7.
5 Unscrew the relevant idler pulley securing
bolt/nut, then withdraw the pulley.
6 Refit the pulley and tighten the securing bolt
or nut to the specified torque.
7 Refit and tension the timing belt as
described in Section 7.
Crankshaft sprocket
Note: A new crankshaft sprocket securing bolt
must be used on refitting.
8.2 Timing belt tensioner nut (arrowed) 8.3 Tensioner backplate lug engaged with
8 Remove the timing belt as described in
Section 7. the cut-out in the rear timing belt cover
9 The sprocket securing bolt must now (arrowed)
be slackened, and the crankshaft must be
prevented from turning as the sprocket bolt
is unscrewed. To hold the sprocket, make up
a suitable tool, and screw it to the sprocket
using two bolts screwed into two of the
crankshaft pulley bolt holes (see illustration).
10 Hold the sprocket using the tool, then
slacken the sprocket securing bolt. Take
care, as the bolt is very tight. Do not allow the
crankshaft to turn as the bolt is slackened.
11 Unscrew the bolt, and slide the sprocket
from the end of the crankshaft, noting which
way round the sprocket's raised boss is fitted.
12 Commence refitting by positioning the 8.9 Use a home-made tool to hold the 8.13 Fit a new crankshaft sprocket
sprocket on the end of the crankshaft, with crankshaft sprocket while the bolt is securing bolt
the raised boss fitted as noted on removal. loosened
13 Fit a new sprocket securing bolt, then 17 Unscrew and remove the three retaining not available, fabricate a suitable alternative.
counterhold the sprocket using the method bolts and remove the camshaft sprocket from Whilst holding the tool, undo the central
employed on removal, and tighten the bolt the camshaft hub. hub retaining bolt about two turns (see
to the specified torque and angle given in the 18 Refit the sprocket, ensuring that it is illustration).
Specifications (see illustration). Do not oil or fitted the correct way round, as noted before 23 Leaving the central hub retaining bolt in
grease the bolt threads. removal. place, attach Seat tool T10052 (or a similar
14 Refit the timing belt as described in 19 Refit the sprocket bolt(s), and tighten by three-legged puller) to the hub, and evenly
Section 7. hand only at this stage.
tighten the puller until the hub is free of the
20 Refit and tension the timing belt as
Camshaft sprocket described in Section 7.
camshaft taper (see illustration).
15 Remove the timing belt as described in 24 Ensure that the camshaft taper and the
Section 7. Camshaft hub hub centre is clean and dry, locate the hub
16 The camshaft sprocket bolt(s) must now Note: Seat technicians use special tool T10051 on the taper, noting that the built-in key in the
be slackened. Do not use the timing locking to counterhold the hub, however it is possible hub taper must align with the keyway in the
bar to hold the camshaft stationary; it must be to fabricate a suitable alternative - see below. camshaft taper (see illustration).
removed before loosening the sprocket bolt. In 21 Remove the camshaft sprocket as 25 Hold the hub in this position with tool
order to eliminate any possibility of accidental described in this Section. T10051 (or similar home-made tool), and
piston-to-valve contact, turn the crankshaft 22 Engage special tool T10051 with the tighten the central bolt to the specified torque.
90° anti-clockwise so that all the pistons are three locating holes in the face of the hub to 26 The remainder of refitting is a reversal of
halfway up the cylinder bore. prevent the hub from turning. If this tool is removal.

PULLER

8.22 Use a fabricated tool to counterhold 8.23 Use a three-legged puller to remove 8.24 Align the hub key with the keyway in
the camshaft hub the hub from the camshaft the camshaft taper (arrowed)
2O12 Diesel engine in-car repair procedures

5 Insert th new rocker shaft retaining bolts, bolts, and remove Nos 1, 3 and 5 bearing
and startin< from the inner bolts, progressively caps. Working progressively, in a diagonal
tighten the iolts to the Stage 1 torque setting, sequence, slacken the bolts securing Nos 2
6 Again, s rting with the inner retaining bolts, and 4 bearing caps. Note that as the bolts
tighten the Jts to the Stage 2 angle as listed are slackened, the valve springs will push the
in this Cha iter's Specifications, camshaft up.
7 Refit th camshaft cover as described in 10 Once the nuts/bolts have been fully
Section 4 slackened, lift off the bearing caps.
11 Carefully lift the camshaft from the cylinder
10 Car ihaft and head, keeping it level and supported at both
hydr mlic tappets - removal, ends as it is removed so that the journals and
inspection and refitting lobes are not damaged. Remove the oil seal
from the end of the camshaft and discard it
9.2 Starting with the outer bolts first, - a new one will be required for refitting (see
slacken the rocker shaft bolts (arrowed) illustration).
Removal
Coolant pump sprocket 12 Lift the hydraulic tappets from their
1 Turn the ;rankshaft to position No 1 piston bores in the cylinder head, and store them
27 The coolant pump sprocket is integral at TDC oi the firing stroke, and lock the with the valve contact surfaces facing
with the coolant pump. Refer to Chapter 3 for camshaft a d the fuel injection pump sprocket
downwards, to prevent the oil from draining
details of coolant pump removal. in position, is described in Section 3.
out. It is recommended that the tappets are
2 Remove the timing belt as described in
kept immersed in oil for the period they are
9 Pump injector |k Section 7.
removed from the cylinder head. Make a note
rocker shaft assembly - ^ 3 Remove ie camshaft sprocket and, where
of the position of each tappet, as they must be
removal and refitting ^ applicable, e hub, as described in Section 8.
refitted in their original locations on reassembly
4 Remove |he brake vacuum/tandem pump
- accelerated wear leading to early failure will
as describe in Chapter 9.
result if the tappets are interchanged.
5 Remove e injector rocker shaft assembly
Removal as describe in Section 9.
13 Recover the lower shell bearing halves
1 Remove the camshaft cover as described from the cylinder head; number the back
6 Check t e camshaft bearing caps for
in Section 4. In order to ensure that the rocker of the shells with a felt pen to ensure that, if
identificatio markings (see illustration). The
arms are refitted to their original locations, use re-used, the bearings are fitted to their original
bearing ca are normally stamped with their
a marker pen or paint and number the arms, locations.
respective ylinder numbers. If no marks are
with No 1 nearest the timing belt end of the present, m ce suitable marks using a scriber Inspection
engine. Note that if the arms are not fitted or punch, th No 1 at the timing belt end of
14 With the camshaft removed, examine the
to their original locations, the injector basic the engine, ote on which side of the bearing bearing caps and the bearing locations in
clearance setting procedure must be carried caps the m ks are made to ensure that they
the cylinder head for signs of obvious wear
out as described in Chapter 4B. are refitted t e correct way round.
or pitting. If evident, a new cylinder head will
2 Starting with the outer bolts first, carefully 7 The cam haft rotates in shell bearings. probably be required. Also check that the oil
and evenly unscrew the rocker shaft retaining As the cam haft bearing caps are removed,
supply holes in the cylinder head are free from
bolts, half a turn at a time. Discard the rocker recover the shell bearing halves from the
obstructions.
shaft bolts, new ones must be fitted (see camshaft. Number the back of the bearings
15 Visually inspect the camshaft for evidence
illustration). with a felt in to ensure that, if re-used, the
of wear on the surfaces of the lobes and
bearings ar fitted to their original locations.
Refitting Note: Fitte into the cylinder head, under
journals. Normally their surfaces should
3 Carefully check the rocker shaft, rocker be smooth and have a dull shine; look for
each cams/1 iff bearing cap, is a washer for
arms and camshaft bearing cap seating scoring, erosion or pitting and areas that
each cylinde head bolt.
surface for any signs of excessive wear or appear highly polished, indicating excessive
8 On3-cylin ler engines, unscrew the securing
damage. wear. Accelerated wear will occur once the
nuts, and remove Nos 2 and 3 bearing caps.
4 Ensure that the shaft seating surface is hardened exterior of the camshaft has been
Working progressively in a diagonal sequence,
clean and position the rocker shaft assembly damaged, so always renew worn items. Note:
slacken the r uts securing Nos 1 and 4 bearing
If these symptoms are visible on the tips of
in the camshaft bearing caps, making sure caps. Note tl at as the nuts are slackened, the
the camshaft lobes, check the corresponding
that, if re-using the original rocker arms, they valve springs will push the camshaft up.
tappet, as it will probably be worn as well.
are in their original locations. 9 On 4-cylin er engines, unscrew the securing
16 If the machined surfaces of the camshaft
appear discoloured or blued, it is likely that it
has been overheated at some point, probably
due to inadequate lubrication. This may have
distorted the shaft, so check the run-out as
follows: place the camshaft between two
V-blocks and using a DTI gauge, measure the
run-out at the centre. If it exceeds the figure
quoted in the Specifications at the start of this
Chapter, renew the camshaft.
17 To measure the camshaft endfloat,
temporarily refit the camshaft to the cylinder
head, then fit Nos 1 and 4 (3-cylinder) or 1 and
5 (4-cylinder) bearing caps and tighten the
10.6 Check the camshaft bearing caps retaining nuts to the specified torque setting.
(arrowed) for markings Anchor a DTI gauge to the timing belt end of
Diesel engine in-car repair procedures 2O13

the cylinder head (see illustration). Push the
camshaft to one end of the cylinder head as far
as it will travel, then rest the DTI gauge probe
on the end face of the camshaft, and zero
the gauge. Push the camshaft as far as it will
go to the other end of the cylinder head, and
record the gauge reading. Verify the reading
by pushing the camshaft back to its original
position and checking that the gauge indicates
zero again. Note: The hydraulic tappets must
not be fitted whilst this measurement is being
H45852
taken.
18 Check that the camshaft endfloat
measurement is within the limit listed in the 10.17 Check camshaft endfloat using a 10.27 Apply sealant to shaded areas (1)
Specifications. If the measurement is outside DTI gauge - lubrication slots (arrowed) must remain
the specified limit, wear is unlikely to be clear
confined to any one component, so renewal of against the pressure of the valve springs. 4 If any hydraulic tappets are heard to be
the camshaft, cylinder head and bearing caps 27 Apply sealant to the outer shoulders of noisy, carry out the following checks.
must be considered. bearing caps 1 and 4 (3-cylinder) or 1 and 5 5 Remove the camshaft cover as described in
19 The camshaft bearing running clearance (4-cylinder), making sure that the lubrication Section 4.
should now be measured. This will be difficult slots remain clear (see illustration). 6 Using a socket or spanner on the crankshaft
to achieve without a range of micrometers or 28 Fit bearing caps 1 and 4 (3-cylinder) or sprocket bolt, turn the crankshaft until the tip
internal/external expanding calipers, measure 1, 3 and 5 (4-cylinder) over the camshaft and of the camshaft lobe above the tappet to be
the outside diameters of the camshaft bearing progressively tighten the nuts/bolts to the checked is pointing vertically upwards.
surfaces and the internal diameters formed by specified torque. 7 Using feeler blades, check the clearance
the bearing caps (and shell bearings where 29 Refit the camshaft sprocket and, where between the top of the tappet, and the cam
applicable) and the bearing locations in the applicable the hub, as described in Section 8. lobe. If the play is in excess of 0.2 mm, renew
cylinder head. The difference between these 30 Refit and tension the timing belt as the relevant tappet. If the play is less than
two measurements is the running clearance. described in Section 7. 0.2 mm, or there is no play, proceed as follows.
20 Compare the camshaft running clearance 31 Refit the brake vacuum/tandem pump as 8 Press down on the tappet using a wooden
measurements with the figure given in the described in Chapter 9. or plastic instrument (see illustration). If free
Specifications; if any are outside the specified play in excess of 1.0 mm is present before
tolerance, the camshaft, cylinder head and 11 Hydraulic tappets - |k the tappet contacts the valve stem, renew the
bearing caps (and shell bearings where testing ^ relevant tappet.
applicable) should be renewed. 9 On completion, refit the camshaft cover as
21 Inspect the hydraulic tappets for obvious described in Section 4.
signs of wear or damage, and renew if
Warning: After fitting hydraulic
necessary. Check that the oil holes in the 12 Camshaft oil seals - ^
tappets, wait a minimum of 30
tappets are free from obstructions. renewal ^
minutes (or preferably, leave
Refitting overnight) before starting the engine, to
22 Smear some clean engine oil onto the allow the tappets time to settle, otherwise
sides of the hydraulic tappets, and offer the valve heads will strike the pistons.
them into position in their original bores in 1 The hydraulic tappets are self-adjusting, Right-hand oil seal
the cylinder head. Push them down until they and require no attention whilst in service. 1 Remove the timing belt as described in
contact the valves, then lubricate the camshaft 2 If the hydraulic tappets become excessively Section 7.
lobe contact surfaces. noisy, their operation can be checked as 2 Remove the camshaft sprocket and, where
23 Lubricate the camshaft and cylinder head described below. applicable, the hub, as described in Section 8.
bearing journals (and shell bearings where 3 Start the engine, and run it until it reaches 3 Drill two small holes into the existing oil
normal operating temperature, increase the seal, diagonally opposite each other. Take
applicable) with clean engine oil.
24 Carefully lower the camshaft into position engine speed to approximately 2500 rpm for great care to avoid drilling through into the
in the cylinder head making sure that the cam 2 minutes. seal housing or camshaft sealing surface.
lobes for No 1 cylinder are pointing upwards. Thread two self-tapping screws into the holes
25 Refit a new camshaft oil seal on the end of and, using a pair of pliers, pull on the heads of
the camshaft. Make sure that the closed end the screws to extract the oil seal.
of the seal faces the camshaft sprocket end 4 Clean out the seal housing and the sealing
of the camshaft, and take care not to damage surface of the camshaft by wiping it with a
the seal lip. Locate the seal against the seat in lint-free cloth. Remove any swarf or burrs that
the cylinder head. may cause the seal to leak.
26 Oil the upper surfaces of the camshaft 5 Do not lubricate the lip and outer edge of
bearing journals (and shell bearings where the new oil seal, push it over the camshaft
applicable), then fit Nos 2 and 3 (3-cylinder) or until it is positioned in place above its housing.
2 and 4 (4-cylinder) bearing caps. Ensure that To prevent damage to the sealing lips, wrap
they are fitted the right way round and in the some adhesive tape around the end of the
correct locations, then progressively tighten camshaft.
the retaining nuts/bolts in a diagonal sequence 6 Using a hammer and a socket of suitable
to the specified torque. Note that as they are 11.8 Press down on the tappet using a diameter, drive the seal squarely into its
tightened, the camshaft will be forced down wooden or plastic instrument housing. Note: Select a socket that bears only
2O14 Diesel engine in-car repair procedures

13.6a Where applicable, undo the bolt 13.6b . . and the one (arrowed) on the 13.7 Use two nuts locked together to
(arrowed) from the inner cover . . . side of the cover unscrew the tensioner mounting stud
on the hard outer surface of the seal, not the to guide th cylinder head into position - see stud from the cylinder head (see illustration).
inner lip which can easily be damaged. text. 8 If the engine is currently supported using a
7 Refit the camshaft sprocket and, where hoist and lifting tackle attached to the engine
applicable, the hub, as described in Section 8. Removal lifting brackets on the cylinder head, it is now
8 Refit and tension the timing belt as 1 Disconne ;t the battery negative lead as necessary to attach a suitable bracket to the
described in Section 7. described Chapter 5A, and remove the cylinder block, so that the engine can still be
engine top >ver. supported as the cylinder head is removed.
Left-hand oil seal 2 Drain the ;ooling system and engine oil as Alternatively, the engine can be supported
9 The left-hand camshaft oil seal is formed by described ir Chapter 1B. using a trolley jack and a block of wood
the brake vacuum/tandem pump seal. Refer to 3 Remove t le camshaft cover as described in positioned under the engine sump.
Chapter 9 for details of brake vacuum pump Section 4. 9 Remove the bolt securing the camshaft
removal and refitting. 4 Remove [he timing belt as described in position sensor to the cylinder head. There is
Section 7. no need to disconnect the wiring at this stage
13 Cylinder head - |k 5 Remove t IB camshaft sprocket and, where (see illustration).
removal, inspection ^ applicable, hub, and timing belt tensioner 10 Disconnect the charge air pipe from the
and refitting ^k as described in Section 8. intake manifold to the intercooler and place to
6 Where at plicable, unscrew the bolt(s) one side.
Note: The cylinder head must be removed with securing th rear timing belt cover to the 11 Disconnect the central connector for
the engine cold. New cylinder head bolts and cylinder heaJ (see illustrations). the unit injectors (see illustration). Note:
a new cylinder head gasket will be required on 7 Using twc suitable nuts locked together, Unplugging the connector may cause a fault
refitting, and suitable studs will be required timing belt tensioner mounting code to be logged by the engine management
ECM. This code can only be erased by a Seat
dealer or suitably-equipped specialist.
12 Undo the two bolts securing the coolant
junction to the end of the cylinder head (see
illustration). There is no need to disconnect
the pipes or wiring plugs at this stage.
I 13 Unscrew the four retaining bolts and pull
the tandem pump away from the cylinder head
without disconnecting the fuel or vacuum
hoses (see illustration).
14 Disconnect and remove the hose
connecting the upper coolant pipe to the
pipe at the end of the cylinder head (see
illustration).
13.9 Unscrew the bolt and remove the nnect the central connector 15 Remove the turbocharger as described in
camshaft position sensor for the injectors Chapter 4C.

13.12 Coolant outlet bolts (arrowed) on the 13.13 Undo the four tandem pump 13.14 Disconnect the coolant hose from
end of the cylinder head retaining bolts (arrowed) the end of the cylinder head
Diesel engine in-car repair procedures 2O15

16 Slacken and remove the bolt securing the
upper metal coolant pipe to the cylinder head.
17 Disconnect the wiring connectors from the
glow plugs - if necessary, refer to Chapter 5A.
18 Disconnect the vacuum pipes from the
EGR valve and the manifold flap actuator (see
illustration).
19 Using a multi-splined tool, undo the
cylinder head bolts, working from the
outside-in, evenly and gradually. Check
that nothing remains connected, and lift
the cylinder head from the engine block.
Seek assistance if possible, as it is a heavy
assembly, especially as it is being removed 13.18 Disconnect the vacuum pipes 13.22 The thickness of the cylinder head
complete with the manifolds. (arrowed) gasket can be identified by notches or holes
20 Remove the gasket from the top of the
block, noting the locating dowels. If the
dowels are a loose fit, remove them and store
them with the head for safe-keeping. Do not
discard the gasket yet - it will be needed for
identification purposes.
Inspection
21 Dismantling and inspection of the cylinder
head is covered in Chapter 2D.
Cylinder head gasket selection
22 Examine the old cylinder head gasket for
manufacturer's identification markings {see 13.25 Measure the piston projection at 13.37 Two of the old head bolts (arrowed)
illustration). These will be in the form of holes TDC using a dial gauge can be used as cylinder head alignment
or notches, and a part number on the edge guides
of the gasket. Unless new pistons have been
fitted, the new cylinder head gasket must
Refitting they may be removed carefully with a file.
Note: If a Seat exchange cylinder head, More serious damage may be repaired by
be of the same type as the old one. In this
complete with camshaft, is to be fitted, the machining, but this is a specialist job.
case, purchase a new gasket, and proceed to
manufacturers recommend the following: 33 If warpage of the cylinder head is
paragraph 29.
suspected, use a straight-edge to check it for
23 If new piston assemblies have been fitted a) Lubricate the contact surfaces between
distortion, as described in Chapter 2D.
as part of an engine overhaul, or if a new the tappets and the cam lobes before
34 Ensure that the cylinder head bolt holes
short engine is to be fitted, the projection of fitting the camshaft cover.
in the crankcase are clean and free of oil.
the piston crowns above the cylinder head b) Do not remove the plastic protectors from
Syringe or soak up any oil left in the bolt holes.
mating face of the cylinder block at TDC must the open valves until immediately before
This is most important in order that the correct
be measured. This measurement is used to fitting the cylinder head.
bolt tightening torque can be applied, and
determine the thickness of the new cylinder c) Additionally, if a new cylinder head is
to prevent the possibility of the block being
head gasket required. fitted, Seat recommend that the coolant is
cracked by hydraulic pressure when the bolts
24 Anchor a dial test indicator (DTI) to the renewed. are tightened.
top face (cylinder head gasket mating face) of 29 The mating faces of the cylinder head and 35 Turn the crankshaft anti-clockwise until all
the cylinder block, and zero the gauge on the block must be perfectly clean before refitting the pistons at an equal height, approximately
gasket mating face. the head. Use a scraper to remove all traces of halfway down their bores from the TDC
25 Rest the gauge probe on No 1 piston gasket and carbon, also clean the tops of the position (see Section 3). This will eliminate any
crown, and turn the crankshaft slowly by hand pistons. Take particular care with the aluminium risk of piston-to-valve contact as the cylinder
until the piston reaches TDC. Measure and surfaces, as the soft metal is easily damaged. head is refitted.
record the maximum piston projection at TDC 30 Make sure that debris is not allowed 36 Where applicable, refit the manifolds with
(see illustration). to enter the oil and water passages - this reference to Chapters 4B and/or 4C.
26 Repeat the measurement for the remaining is particularly important for the oil circuit, 37 To guide the cylinder head into position,
pistons, and record the results. as carbon could block the oil supply to the screw two long studs (or old cylinder head
27 If the measurements differ from piston-to- camshaft and crankshaft bearings. Using bolts with the heads cut off, and slots cut in
piston, take the highest figure, and use this to adhesive tape and paper, seal the water, oil the ends to enable the bolts to be unscrewed)
determine the thickness of the head gasket and bolt holes in the cylinder block. into the cylinder block (see illustration).
required as follows. 31 To prevent carbon entering the gap 38 Ensure that the cylinder head locating
Gasket identification between the pistons and bores, smear a little dowels are in place in the cylinder block,
(number of holes/ grease in the gap. After cleaning a piston, then fit the new cylinder head gasket over
Piston projection notches) rotate the crankshaft to that the piston moves the dowels, ensuring that the part number
0.91 to 1.00 mm 1 down the bore, then wipe out the grease and is uppermost. Where applicable, the OBEN/
1.01 to 1.10mm 2 carbon with a cloth rag. Clean the other piston TOP marking should also be uppermost. Note
1.11 to 1.20mm 3 crowns in the same way. that Seat recommend that the gasket is only
28 Purchase a new gasket according to the 32 Check the head and block for nicks, removed from its packaging immediately prior
results of the measurements. deep scratches and other damage. If slight, to fitting.
2O16 Diesel engine in-car repair procedures

FRONT OF CAR
13.42a Cylinder head bolt tightening sequence 13.42b . . . and 3-cylinder engines
4-cylinder engines . . .
to the turbocharger with reference to
Chapter 4C.
d) Refit the timing belt tensioner with
reference to Section 8.
e) Refit the camshaft sprocket as described
in Section 8, and refit the timing belt as
described in Section 7.
f) Refill the cooling system and engine oil as
described in Chapter 1B.

14 Sump-
removal and refitting
I
13.42c Use a torque wrench to tighten the 13.44 Angle-tighten the cylinder head I
cylinder head bolts bolts
39 Lower the cylinder head into position on tighten all he cylinder head bolts to the Note: On 3-cylinder engines, the transmission
the gasket, ensuring that it engages correctly specified St ge 2 torque. must be removed first in order to remove the
over the guide studs and dowels. 44 Tighten all the cylinder head bolts, in sump. This is for access to the sump retaining
40 Fit the new cylinder head bolts to the sequence, tr rough the specified Stage 3 angle bolts at the flywheel end of the crankcase.
remaining bolt locations, and screw them in (see illustra ion).
Removal
as far as possible by hand. 45 Finally, t ghten all the cylinder head bolts,
in sequence through the specified Stage 4 1 Apply the handbrake, then jack up the front
41 Unscrew the two guide studs from the
angle. of the car and support securely on axle stands
exhaust side of the cylinder block, then screw
46 After fin lly tightening the cylinder head (see Jacking and vehicle support).
in the two remaining new cylinder head bolts 2 Remove the securing bolts and withdraw the
as far as possible by hand. bolts, turn th camshaft so that the cam lobes
for No 1 cyli ier are pointing upwards. engine undershield(s) (see illustration 7.4).
42 Working progressively, in sequence, 3 Drain the engine oil as described in Chap-
47 Where iplicable, reconnect the lifting
tighten all the cylinder head bolts to the ter 1B.
tackle to th engine lifting brackets on the
specified Stage 1 torque (see illustrations). cylinder he then adjust the lifting tackle 4 Where fitted, disconnect the wiring
43 Again working progressively, in sequence, to support : engine. Once the engine is connector from the oil level/temperature
adequately supported using the cylinder head sender on the sump (see illustration).
brackets, dh connect the lifting tackle from 5 On 3-cylinder engines, the transmission
the bracket t olted to the cylinder block, and must first be removed from the engine. Refer
unbolt the ir provised engine lifting bracket to Chapter 7A for the procedure. For additional
from the cyli der block. Alternatively, remove working room, the exhaust front pipe may also
the trolley jac and block of wood from under be removed as described in Chapter 4C. Also
the sump. on this engine, unscrew the bolts and remove
48 The rema nder of the refitting procedure is the dipstick tube from the sump, then recover
a reversal of t le removal procedure, bearing in the O-ring seal (see illustrations).
mind the follc wing points. 6 Unscrew and remove the bolts securing
a) Refit the imshaft cover with reference to the sump to the cylinder block, then withdraw
Section the sump (see illustration). On 4-cylinder
b) Use new \ealing rings when reconnecting engines, access to the flywheel-end retaining
14.4 Disconnect the wiring connector the turbo larger oil return pipe to the bolts is limited, requiring the use of universal
(arrowed) from the oil level/temperature cylinder 5C/C. joint socket bar. If necessary, release the sump
sender c) Reconne the exhaust front section by tapping with a soft-faced mallet.
Diesel engine in-car repair procedures 2O17

14.5a Unscrew the bolts . . . 14.5b . . . and remove the dipstick and 14.6 Remove the sump
O-ring seal

Refitting 3 Remove the sump as described in Section 14.
4 Unscrew the retaining bolts and remove the
7 Commence refitting by thoroughly cleaning
oil seal housing from the front right-hand side
the mating faces of the sump and cylinder
of the cylinder block. If it is stuck, release it by
block/crankcase. Ensure that all traces of old
tapping with a soft-faced mallet. If the oil seal is
sealant are removed.
to be re-used, wrap some tape around the end
8 Ensure that the mating face of the sump
of the crankshaft to protect the oil seal lips.
is free from all traces of old sealant, oil and
5 Unscrew the mounting bolts and remove
grease, then apply a 2.0 to 3.0 mm thick bead
the plastic cover/strainer from the bottom of
of silicone sealant (D 176404 A2 or equivalent)
to the sump. Note that the sealant must run the crankcase. Recover the O-ring.
6 Apply inward pressure on the drive chain,
around the inside of the bolt holes in the sump
(see illustration). The sump must be fitted then lock the chain tensioner by fitting and
within 5 minutes of applying the sealant. tightening a bolt through the tensioner into the
9 Offer the sump up to the cylinder block, tensioner body. H31940

then refit the retaining bolts, and lightly tighten 7 Unscrew the bolt and remove the sprocket
them by hand, working progressively in a from the guide pulley. Place the sprocket to 14.8 Apply the sealant around the inside of
diagonal sequence. On 4-cylinder engines, one side. the bolt holes
if the sump is being refitted with the engine 8 Unbolt and remove the drive chain tensioner
inspect them for signs of damage or wear.
on the bench, use a steel rule to align the assembly. Discard the bolts and obtain new
Renew them as necessary.
rear face of the sump with that of the engine ones.
9 If the chain is to be re-used, mark it Refitting
cylinder block. Fully tighten the bolts, again
working in a diagonal sequence. with paint to indicate its fitted position and 14 Check that the two location dowels are
10 On 3-cylinder engines, refit the trans- rotational direction. in position, then refit the oil pump, insert
mission with reference to Chapter 7A. Where 10 Remove the chain from the sprockets. the mounting bolts and tighten them to the
removed, refit the exhaust front pipe. 11 To remove the sprocket from the balancer specified torque.
11 Reconnect the wiring to the oil level/ shaft, refer to Section 21. If necessary, the oil 15 Refit the sprocket to the oil pump and
temperature sender on the sump. pump sprocket may be removed at this stage tighten the new bolt to the specified torque
12 Refit the engine undershield(s) and lower by holding it stationary and loosening the and angle. If removed, refit the sprocket to the
the car to the ground. retaining bolt. Discard the bolt and obtain a balancer shaft with reference to Section 21.
13 Allow at least 30 minutes from the time new one. 16 Refit the chain tensioner assembly and
of refitting the sump for the sealant to dry, 12 Unscrew the mounting bolts and remove
tighten the new mounting bolts to the specified
then refill the engine with oil, with reference to the oil pump from the bottom of the balancer
torque.
Chapter 1B. shaft assembly (see illustration). Recover the
17 With the engine set at TDC, the mark on the
two location dowels.
crankshaft sprocket will be pointing upwards.
15 Oil pump, drive chain Inspection The chain has two coloured links which are
and sprockets - removal, 13 Clean the pump and sprockets, and also notched; position one of these links on
inspection and refitting

Oil pump, drive chain and
sprockets - 3-cylinder engines
Note: The oil pump on 3-cylinder engines is
driven by the balancer shaft drive chain; refer to
Section 21 for more information. When removing
the oil pump, the balancer shaft drive chain must
first be removed, then realigned on refitting.
Removal
1 Remove the timing belt as described in
Section 7. 15.17 The coloured links (arrowed) on the
2 Remove the crankshaft sprocket as 15.12 Oil pump mounting bolts (arrowed) balance shaft chain must be positioned as
described in Section 8. shown
2O18 Diesel engine in-car repair procedure

equivalent) (see illustration). Note that the seal
housing must be refitted within 5 minutes of
applying the sealant.
Caution: DO NOT put excessive amounts of
sealant onto the housing as it may get into
the sump and block the oil pick-up pipe.
21 Refit the oil seal housing, taking care
not to damage the seal and tighten the bolts
progressively to the specified torque. If a new
seal is to be fitted, refer to Section 17; if the oil
seal is to be refitted, protect it with tin foil or
plastic sheeting (see illustration).
22 Refit the sump as described in Section 14.
15.20 Apply sealant to the crankshaft oil 15.21 Use t foil to protect the crankshaft 23 Refit the crankshaft sprocket as described
seal housing oil sea when fitting the housing in Section 8.
the crankshaft sprocket mark, then feed the 19 Unlock t e tensioner by unscrewing the 24 Refit the timing belt as described in
chain clockwise over the tensioner pad, around retaining bol then recheck that the coloured/ Section 7.
the oil pump sprocket and over the balancer notched link are still aligned with the marks
shaft sprocket, making sure that the remaining on the sproc its.
Oil pump - 4-cylinder engines
coloured/notched link is aligned with the mark 20 Clean al traces of old sealant from the Removal
on the sprocket (see illustration). crankshaft o seal housing and the cylinder 25 Remove the sump as described in Sec-
18 Locate the guide pulley sprocket in the block, then o it the cylinder block mating faces tion 14.
chain, then refit the bolt and tighten it to the of the oil seal ousing with a 2.0 to 3.0 mm thick 26 Unbolt and remove the oil baffle from the
specified torque. bead of se< ant (Seat D 176 404 A2, or crankcase, noting that on some models the
baffle is retained by the oil pump rear left-hand
mounting bolt.
27 Unscrew the mounting bolts, and release
the oil pump from the dowels in the crankcase
(see illustration). Unhook the oil pump drive
sprocket from the chain and withdraw the oil
pump and oil pick-up pipe from the engine.
Note that the tensioner will attempt to tighten
the chain, and it may be necessary to use a
screwdriver to hold it in its released position
before releasing the oil pump sprocket from
the chain.
28 If desired, unscrew the flange bolts and
remove the pick-up pipe from the oil pump.
Recover the O-ring seal. Unscrew the bolts
and remove the cover from the oil pump.
Note: If the oil pick-up pipe is removed from
the oil pump, a new O-ring will be required on
refitting.
Inspection
29 Clean the pump thoroughly, and inspect
the gear teeth/rotors for signs of damage or
wear. If evident, renew the oil pump.
30 To remove the sprocket from the oil pump,
unscrew the retaining bolt and slide off the
sprocket (note that the sprocket can only be
fitted in one position).
Refitting
31 Prime the pump with oil by pouring oil into
the pick-up pipe aperture while turning the
driveshaft.
32 Refit the cover to the oil pump and tighten
H45328 the bolts securely. Where removed, refit the
15.27 Sump and oil pump compo ents pick-up pipe to the oil pump, using a new
O-ring seal, and tighten the securing bolts.
1 Oil pump 7 Drive chain tensioner 14 Oil baffle 33 Use a screwdriver to press the tensioner
2 Oil pump sprocket 8 Sump 15 Seal against its spring to provide sufficient slack
3 Bolt 9 Seal 16 Oil level/temperature in the chain to refit the oil pump. Engage
4 Oil pump drive chain 10 Sump drain plug sender the oil pump sprocket with the drive chain,
5 Crankshaft oil seal 11 Dowels 17 Bolt then locate the oil pump on the dowels. Refit
housing 12 O-ring 18 Oil spray jet and tighten the three mounting bolts to the
6 Bolt 13 Oil pick-up pipe 19 Bolt specified torque.
Diesel engine in-car repair procedures 2O19

16.2 Flywheel locked in position with a 16.7 Apply locking fluid to the new 16.9 Tighten the flywheel bolts to the
home-made tool flywheel bolts, if necessary specified torque
34 Refit the oil baffle, and tighten the securing block, and tighten the securing bolt to the 7 If the new flywheel retaining bolts are not
bolts. specified torque. Make sure that the tensioner supplied with their threads pre-coated, apply
35 Refit the sump as described in Section 14. spring is correctly positioned to pretension the a suitable thread-locking compound to the
tensioner arm. threads of each bolt (see illustration).
Drive chain and sprockets - 44 Engage the oil pump sprocket with
4-cylinder engines 8 Offer up the flywheel to the crankshaft, and
the chain, then engage the chain with the fit the new retaining bolts.
Note: Sea? sealant (D 176404 A2 or equivalent) crankshaft sprocket. Use a screwdriver to 9 Lock the flywheel using the method
will be required to seal the crankshaft oil seal press the tensioner against its spring to employed on dismantling, and tighten the
housing on refitting, and it is advisable to fit a provide sufficient slack in the chain, then retaining bolts to the specified torque and
new crankshaft oil seal. engage the sprocket with the oil pump. Note angle (see illustration).
Removal that the sprocket will only fit in one position. 10 Refit the clutch as described in Chapter 6.
36 Remove the sump as described in Sec- 45 Refit the oil pump sprocket bolt, and Remove the locking tool, and refit the trans-
tion 14. tighten to the specified torque. mission as described in Chapter 7A.
37 Unbolt and remove the oil baffle from the 46 Fit a new crankshaft oil seal to the
crankcase, noting that on some models the housing, and refit the housing as described in 17 Crankshaft oil seals -
Section 17.
baffle is retained by the oil pump rear/left-hand renewal §^>
mounting bolt. 47 Refit the oil baffle to the crankcase, and
38 To remove the oil pump sprocket, unscrew tighten the securing bolts.
the securing bolt, then pull the sprocket from the 48 Refit the sump as described in Section 14.
pump shaft, and unhook it from the drive chain. Note 1: The oil seals are a PTFE (Teflon) type
39 To remove the chain, remove the timing 16 Flywheel- e^ and are fitted dry, without using any grease or
belt as described in Section 7, then unbolt the removal, inspection ^ oil. These have a wider sealing lip and have been
crankshaft oil seal housing from the cylinder and refitting ^C introduced instead of the coil spring type oil seal.
block. Unbolt the chain tensioner from the Note 2: If the oil seal housing is removed,
cylinder block, then unhook the chain from the suitable sealant (Seat D 176 404 A2, or
sprocket on the end of the crankshaft. Removal equivalent) will be required to seal the housing
40 The oil pump drive sprocket is a press-fit on refitting.
1 Remove the manual transmission and clutch
on the crankshaft, and cannot easily be as described in Chapter 7A and Chapter 6. Right-hand oil seal
removed. Consult a Seat dealer for advice if 2 Lock the flywheel in position using a home-
the sprocket is worn or damaged. 1 Remove the timing belt as described in
made locking tool, fabricated from a piece of Section 7, and the crankshaft sprocket with
Inspection scrap metal (see illustration). Bolt it to one of reference to Section 8.
41 Examine the chain for wear and damage. the transmission bellhousing mounting holes. 2 To remove the seal without removing the
Wear is usually indicated by excessive lateral 3 Remove the flywheel. Do not drop it, as it housing, drill two small holes diagonally
play between the links, and excessive noise in is very heavy. Note: The bolt holes are offset, opposite each other, insert self-tapping
operation. It is wise to renew the chain in any so it is only possible to fit the flywheel in one screws, and pull on the heads of the screws
case if the engine is to be overhauled. Note position.
with pliers (see illustrations).
that the rollers on a very badly worn chain Inspection
may be slightly grooved. If there is any doubt
as to the condition of the chain, renew it. 4 If the flywheel's clutch mating surface is
42 Examine the teeth on the sprockets for deeply scored, cracked or otherwise damaged,
wear. Each tooth forms an inverted V. If worn, the flywheel must be renewed. However, it
the side of each tooth under tension will be may be possible to have it surface-ground;
slightly concave in shape when compared seek the advice of a Seat dealer or engine
with the other side of the tooth (ie, the teeth reconditioning specialist.
will have a hooked appearance). If the teeth 5 If the ring gear is badly worn or has missing
appear worn, the sprocket should be renewed teeth, the flywheel must be renewed.
(consult a Seat dealer or engine reconditioning Refitting
specialist for advice if the crankshaft sprocket
is worn or damaged). 6 Clean the mating surfaces of the flywheel
and crankshaft. Remove any remaining locking
Refitting compound from the threads of the crankshaft 17.2a Drill two small holes diagonally
43 Refit the chain tensioner to the cylinder holes, using the correct-size tap, if available. opposite each other . ..
2O20 Diesel engine in-car repair procedure:

17.2b . . . and use pliers to pull out the oil 17.3 Prise t oil seal from the crankshaft 17.5 Use a plastic cap to protect the oil
seal il seal housing seal during fitting
3 Alternatively, to remove the oil seal complete of suitable d meter. Ensure that the socket bolts progressively to the specified torque
with its housing, proceed as follows. or tube bear only on the hard outer ring of (see illustration).
a) Remove the sump as described in the seal, and ke care not to damage the seal 10 Refit the sump as described in Section 14.
Section 14. This is necessary to ensure a lips. Press or rive the seal into position until 11 Refit the crankshaft sprocket with
satisfactory seal between the sump and it is seated the shoulder in the housing. reference to Section 8, and the timing belt as
oil seal housing on refitting. Make sure th the closed end of the seal is described in Section 7.
b) Unbolt and remove the oil seal housing. facing outwar
c) Working on the bench, lever the oil 7 If the oil s housing has been removed,
Left-hand oil seal
seal from the housing using a suitable proceed as lows, otherwise proceed to 12 Remove the flywheel as described in
screwdriver. Take care not to damage paragraph 11 Section 16.
the seal seating in the housing (see 8 Clean all ces of old sealant from the 13 Remove the sump as described in Sec-
illustration). crankshaft o eal housing and the cylinder tion 14. This is necessary to ensure a
4 Thoroughly clean the oil seal seating in the block, then co the cylinder block mating faces satisfactory seal between the sump and oil
housing. of the oil sea housing with a 2.0 to 3.0 mm seal housing on refitting.
14 Unbolt and remove the oil seal housing,
5 Wind a length of tape around the end of the thick bead of ealant (Seat D 176 404 A2, or
e that the seal housing must be complete with the oil seal.
crankshaft to protect the oil seal lips as the equivalent). N
15 The new oil seal will be supplied
seal (and housing, where applicable) is fitted. refitted within minutes of applying the sealant.
ready-fitted to a new oil seal housing.
Alternatively, use a suitable plastic cap (see Caution: DO OTput excessive amounts of
16 Thoroughly clean the oil seal housing
illustration). sealant onto he housing as it may get into
mating face on the cylinder block.
6 Fit a new oil seal to the housing, pressing or the sump an block the oil pick-up pipe.
17 New oil seal/housing assemblies are
driving it into position using a socket or tube 9 Refit the o seal housing, and tighten the supplied with a fitting tool to prevent damage to
the oil seal as it is being fitted. Locate the tool
over the end of the crankshaft (see illustration).
18 If the original oil seal housing was fitted
using sealant, apply a thin bead of suitable
sealant (Seat D 176 404 A2, or equivalent) to
the cylinder block mating face of the oil seal
housing. Note that the seal housing must be
refitted within 5 minutes of applying the sealant.
Caution: DO NOT put excessive amounts of
sealant onto the housing as it may get into
the sump and block the oil pick-up pipe.
19 Carefully fit the oil seal/housing assembly
over the end of the crankshaft, then refit
17.9 Slide the oil seal housing over the 17.17 Locat the crankshaft oil seal fitting the securing bolts and tighten the bolts
end of the crankshaft tool ove hie end of the crankshaft progressively, in a diagonal sequence, to the
specified torque (see illustrations).
20 Remove the oil seal protector tool from
the end of the crankshaft.
21 Refit the sump as described in Section 14.
22 Refit the flywheel as described in Section 16.

18 Engine/transmission
mountings -
inspection and renewal

Inspect/on
1 If improved access is required, jack up the
17.19a Fit the oil seal/housing assembly 17.19b . . . t jn tighten the securing bolts front of the car, and support it securely on
over the end of the crankshaft.. to e specified torque axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle support).
Diesel engine in-car repair procedures 2O21

Remove the securing bolts and remove the Chapter 5A, then disconnect the main starter use a trolley jack and block of wood, or
engine undershield(s). motor feed cable from the positive battery alternatively wedge a block of wood between
2 Check the mounting rubbers to see if they terminal box. the transmission and the subframe.
are cracked, hardened or separated from the 15 Release any relevant wiring or hoses from 20 Working under the car, unscrew and
metal at any point; renew the mounting if any the clips on the battery tray, then unscrew the remove the bolt securing the mounting to the
such damage or deterioration is evident. four securing bolts and remove the battery tray. subframe.
3 Check that all the mountings are securely 16 Unscrew the bolts securing the mounting 21 Unscrew the two bolts securing the
tightened; use a torque wrench to check if to the transmission, and the remaining bolts mounting to the transmission, then withdraw
possible. securing the mounting to the body, then lift the mounting from under the car.
4 Using a large screwdriver or a crowbar, the mounting from the engine compartment. 22 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but use
check for wear in the mounting by carefully 17 Refitting is a reversal of removal, bearing new mounting securing bolts, and tighten all
levering against it to check for free play. in mind the following points: fixings to the specified torque.
Where this is not possible, enlist the aid of a) Use new mounting bolts.
an assistant to move the engine/transmission
b) Tighten all fixings to the specified torque. 19 Engine oil cooler -
back-and-forth, or from side-to-side, whilst
you observe the mounting. While some Rear mounting (torque arm) removal and refitting
free play is to be expected, even from new Note: New mounting bolts will be required on
components, excessive wear should be refitting.
obvious. If excessive free play is found, 18 Apply the handbrake, then jack up the Note: New sealing rings will be required on
check first that the fasteners are correctly front of the car and support securely on axle refitting.
secured, then renew any worn components as stands (see Jacking and vehicle support).
described in the following paragraphs. Remove the engine undershield(s) for access Removal
Renewal to the rear mounting (torque arm). 1 The oil cooler is mounted under the oil filter
19 Support the rear of the transmission housing on the front of the cylinder block
Right-hand mounting beneath the final drive housing. To do this, (see illustration). Note: The manufacturers
Note: New mounting securing bolts will be
required on refitting.
5 Attach a hoist and lifting tackle to the engine
lifting brackets on the cylinder head, and raise
the hoist to just take the weight of the engine.
Alternatively the engine can be supported on
a trolley jack under the engine. Use a block of
wood between the sump and the head of the
jack, to prevent any damage to the sump.
6 Where necessary, unbolt the coolant
reservoir and move it to one side, leaving the
coolant hoses connected.
7 Where applicable, move any wiring
harnesses, pipes or hoses to one side to
enable removal of the engine mounting.
8 Unscrew the mounting centre nut securing
the bracket to the flexible mounting.
9 Unscrew the three bolts securing the
mounting bracket to the engine and remove
the bracket.
10 Unbolt and remove the flexible mounting
from the body.
11 Refitting is a reversal of removal, bearing
in mind the following points.
a) Use new securing bolts.
b) Tighten all fixings to the specified torque.
Left-hand mounting
Note: New mounting bolts will be required on
refitting (there is no need to renew the smaller
mounting-to-body bolts).
12 Remove the engine top cover which also
incorporates the air filter.
13 Attach a hoist and lifting tackle to the
engine lifting brackets on the cylinder head, 19.1 Oil filter and oil cooler mounting details
and raise the hoist to just take the weight of
the engine and transmission. Alternatively Oil cooler 7 Sealing plug 10 Oil pressure 15 Oil supply pipe to
the engine can be supported on a trolley retaining cap 8 Oil pressure relief warning light turbo
jack under the transmission. Use a block of O-ring valve spring (early switch 16 Banjo bolt -
wood between the transmission and the head Oil cooler models only) 1 1 Gasket turbo
of the jack, to prevent any damage to the O-ring 9 Oil pressure relief 12 Mounting bolt 17 Oil filter cover
transmission. Washer valve piston (early 13 Oil filter housing 18 O-ring
14 Remove the battery, as described in Sealing plug models only) 14 Seal 19 Oil filter
2O22 Diesel engine in-car repair procedures

21.5 Oil seal housing (arrowed) on the 21.6a Rem e the plastic cover/strainer 21.6b . . . and recover the O-ring seal
front right-hand side of the cylinder block from the b ttom of the crankcase . .

Refitting 5 Refit the switch, complete with washer, and
tighten it to the specified torque.
5 Refitting is reversal of removal, bearing in
6 Securely reconnect the wiring connector
mind the folio' ng points:
then check and, if necessary, top-up the
a) Use new o, cooler O-rings.
cable, press up the oil cooler engine oil as described in Weekly checks. On
b) Where ap;
o against the anti-twist lock completion, refit the engine top cover(s).
retaining a
before tigh 3ning it to the specified
torque. Ma e sure the coolant hoses are 21 Balancer shaft unit |k
positioned Correctly clear of surrounding (3-cylinder engines) - ^
componen removal and refitting ^
c) On comple 'on, check and if necessary
top-up the >il and coolant levels.
Removal
20 Oil pres ure |k 1 The 3-cylinder engine has a balancer unit
warnin light switch - bolted to the bottom of the crankcase/block.
removal nd refitting ^ The unit consists of a single counter-rotating
balancer shaft driven by the crankshaft.
21.7 Tensioner locking bolt (arrowed) 2 Remove the timing belt as described in
Removal Section 7.
1 Guide sprocket 3 Remove the crankshaft sprocket as
2 Tensioner assembly mounting bolts 1 The oil press re warning light switch is fitted
to the oil filter ousing. Remove the engine described in Section 8.
top cover(s) to ain access to the switch (see 4 Remove the sump as described in Sec-
recommend the oil cooler is renewed if Section 4). tion 14.
considerable quantities of metal swarf have 2 Disconnect t e wiring connector and wipe 5 Unscrew the retaining bolts and remove the
been found in the engine oil during servicing. clean the area •ound the switch. oil seal housing from the front right-hand side
2 Position a container beneath the oil filter/ 3 Unscrew the switch from the filter housing of the cylinder block (see illustration). If it is
cooler to catch escaping oil and coolant. and remove it, ilong with its sealing washer, stuck, release it by tapping with a soft-faced
3 Clamp the oil cooler coolant hoses to If the switch is to be left removed from the mallet. If the oil seal is to be re-used, wrap
minimise coolant spillage, then remove the engine for any ngth of time, plug the oil filter some tape around the end of the crankshaft to
clips, and disconnect the hoses from the oil housing apertur protect the oil seal lips.
cooler. Be prepared for coolant spillage. 6 Unscrew the mounting bolts and remove
4 Unscrew the oil cooler retaining cap from Refitting the plastic cover/strainer from the bottom
the bottom of the oil filter housing, then slide 4 Examine the sealing washer for signs of of the crankcase. Recover the O-ring (see
off the oil cooler. Recover the O-rings from the damage or de erioration and if necessary illustrations).
top and bottom of the oil cooler. renew. 7 Apply inward pressure on the drive chain,
then lock the chain tensioner by fitting and
tightening a bolt through the tensioner into the
tensioner body (see illustration).
8 Unscrew the bolt and remove the guide
sprocket (see illustration). Place the sprocket
to one side.
9 Unbolt and remove the drive chain tensioner
assembly (see illustration). Discard the bolts
and obtain new ones.
10 If the chain is to be re-used, mark it
with paint to indicate its fitted position and
rotational direction.
11 Remove the chain from the sprockets.
12 Lock the balancer shaft by positioning a
21.8 Guide sprocket (arrowed) 21.9 Drive cha|n tensioner mounting bolts lever or long spanner between the eccentric
(arrowed) weight at the flywheel end and the crankcase.
Diesel engine in-car repair procedures 2O23

Loosen only the bolt securing the balancer
weight at the timing end.
13 Unbolt the balancer shaft assembly from
the crankcase (see illustration). Recover the
O-ring seal and the location dowel. Discard
the seal and obtain a new one.
14 Fully unscrew the bolt and remove the
balancer weight and sprocket from the
balancer shaft. Mark the sprocket and weight
to ensure correct refitting. Discard the bolt
and obtain a new one.
15 Withdraw the balancer shaft from the
housing.
21.13 Balance shaft assembly 21.21 The coloured links (arrowed) on the
Refitting (arrowed) balance shaft chain must be positioned as
16 Thoroughly clean all the components and shown
wipe dry. Lubricate the bearing surfaces of the
balancer shaft and housing with fresh engine 20 Refit the drive chain tensioner housing 24 Clean all traces of old sealant from the
oil. and tighten the new mounting bolts to the crankshaft oil seal housing and the cylinder
17 Insert the balancer shaft into the housing, specified torque and angle. block, then coat the cylinder block mating faces
then refit the sprocket and weight, noting that 21 With the engine set at TDC, the mark on the of the oil seal housing with a 2.0 to 3.0 mm thick
they can only be fitted in one position. Hand- crankshaft sprocket will be pointing upwards. bead of sealant (Seat D 176 404 A2, or
tighten the new retaining bolt at this stage. The chain has two coloured links which are equivalent). Note that the seal housing must be
18 Make sure the location dowel is in also notched; position one of these links on refitted within 5 minutes of applying the sealant.
place, then fit a new O-ring seal and offer the crankshaft sprocket mark, then feed the Caution: DO NOT put excessive amounts
the assembly to the crankcase. Insert the chain clockwise over the tensioner pad, around of sealant onto the housing as it may get
mounting bolts finger-tight, then check that the oil pump sprocket and over the balancer into the sump and block the oil pick-up
the timing end of the assembly is correctly shaft sprocket, making sure that the remaining pipe.
aligned with the cylinder block - no movement coloured/notched link is aligned with the mark 25 Refit the oil seal housing, taking care
is possible near the location dowel, however on the sprocket (see illustration). not to damage the seal and tighten the bolts
some movement will be possible within the 22 Locate the guide pulley sprocket in the progressively to the specified torque. If a new
bolt holes by swivelling the assembly. With the chain, then refit the bolt and tighten it to the seal is to be fitted, refer to Section 17.
assembly located correctly, fully tighten the specified torque. 26 Refit the sump as described in Section 14.
mounting bolts to their specified torque. 23 Unlock the tensioner by unscrewing the 27 Refit the crankshaft sprocket as described
19 Lock the balancer shaft as for removal, retaining bolt, then recheck that the coloured/ in Section 8.
and tighten the new weight/sprocket bolt to notched links are still aligned with the marks 28 Refit the timing belt as described in
the specified torque and angle. on the sprockets. Section 7.
2O24 Notes
2D»1

Chapter 2 Part D:
Engine removal and overhaul procedures
Contents Section number Section number
Crankshaft (diesel engines) - checking endfloat and inspection . . . . 13 Engine overhaul - preliminary information 5
Crankshaft (diesel engines) - refitting 17 Engine overhaul - reassembly sequence 15
Crankshaft (diesel engines) - removal 10 Engine/transmission removal - preparation and precautions 3
Cylinder block/crankcase - cleaning and inspection 11 General information 1
Cylinder head - dismantling 6 Main and big-end bearings - inspection 14
Cylinder head - reassembly 8 Piston rings - refitting 16
Cylinder head and valves - cleaning and inspection 7 Piston/connecting rod assemblies - cleaning and inspection 12
Engine - initial start-up after overhaul and reassembly 19 Piston/connecting rod assemblies - refitting and big-end bearing
Engine and transmission - removal and refitting 4 clearance check 18
Engine overhaul - general information 2 Piston/connecting rod assemblies - removal 9

Degrees of difficulty
Easy, suitable for ^ Fairly easy, suitable |^ Fairly difficult, f^ Difficult, suitable ^ Very difficult, ^
novice with little ^ for beginner with ^ suitable for competent ^ for experienced DIY ^W suitable for expert 5^
experience ^ some experience 3^ DIY mechanic 2^ mechanic 3^ DIY or professional >^

Specifications
Cylinder head
Minimum permissible dimension between top of valve stem and top surface of cylinder head:
Petrol engines:
1.2 litre:
Engine code BXV N/A
Engine codes AZQ and BME 7.6 mm
1.4 litre:
Intake valves 7.6 mm
Exhaust valves 7.6 mm
Diesel engines:
1.4 litre N/A
1.9 litre:
Intake valves 43.4 mm
Exhaust valves 43.2 mm
Minimum cylinder head height:
Petrol engines:
1.2 litre N/A
1.4 litre 108.25 mm
Diesel engines No reworking permitted
Maximum cylinder head gasket face distortion:
Petrol engines 0.05 mm
Diesel engines 0.10 mm
2D»2 Engine removal and overhaul procedure

Valves
Valve stem diameter: Intake Exhaust
Petrol engines:
1.2 litre:
Engine code BXV N/A N/A
Engine codes AZQ and BME 5.973 mm 5.953 mm
1.4 litre 5.973 mm 5.953 mm
Diesel engines:
1.4 litre 6.980 mm 6.956 mm
1.9 litre 6.980 mm 6.956 mm
Valve head diameter:
Petrol engines:
1.2 litre:
Engine code BXV N/A N/A
Engine codes AZQ and BME 29.5 mm 26.0 mm
1.4 litre 29.5 mm 26.0 mm
Diesel engines 35.95 mm 31.45 mm
Valve length:
Petrol engines:
1.2 litre:
Engine code BXV N/A N/A
Engine codes AZQ and BME 100.9 mm 100.57 mm
1.4 litre 100.9mm 100.5 mm
Diesel engines:
1.4 litre 89.95 mm 89.95 mm
1.9 litre 89.95 mm 89.95 mm
Valve seat angle (all engines) 45° 45°

Piston and cylinder bore diameters Piston Cylinder bore
Petrol engines:
1.2 litre See Note in Section 2
1.4 litre:
Standard 76.470 mm 76.510 mm
1 st oversize 76.720 mm 76.760 mm
2nd oversize 76.970 mm 77.010 mm
Diesel engines:
Standard 79.470 mm 79.510 mm
1 st oversize 79.720 mm 79.760 mm
2nd oversize. . 79.970 mm 80.010 mm

Piston rings
End gaps: New Wear limit
Petrol engines:
1.2 litre See Note in Section 2
1.4 litre:
Top compression ring . . 0.20 to 0.50 mm 1.0 mm
Lower compression ring 0.40 to 0.70 mm 1.0 mm
Oil scraper ring 0.40 to 1.40 mm N/A
Diesel engines:
1.4 litre:
Top compression ring . . 0.25 to 0.40 mm 1.0 mm
Lower compression ring 0.20 to 0.40 mm 1.0 mm
Oil scraper ring 0.25 to 0.50 mm 1.0 mm
1.9 litre:
Compression rings . . . . 0.20 to 0.40 mm 1.0 mm
Oil scraper ring 0.25 to 0.50 mm 1.0 mm
Ring-to-groove clearance:
Petrol engines:
1.2 litre See Note in Section 2
1.4 litre:
Compression rings . . . . 0.04 to 0.08 mm 0.15 mm
Oil scraper ring N/A N/A
Diesel engines:
1st compression ring . . . . 0.06 to 0.09 mm 0.25 mm
2nd compression ring. . . . 0.05 to 0.08 mm 0.25 mm
Oil scraper ring 0.03 to 0.06 mm 0.15 mm
Engine removal and overhaul procedures 2D*3

Pistons/connecting rods
Connecting rod side-play on crankshaft journal: New Wear limit
Petrol engines:
1.2 litre See Note in Section 2
1.4 litre 0.10 to 0.35 mm 0.40 mm
Diesel engines N/A 0.37 mm
Crankshaft
Petrol engines See Note in Section 2
Diesel engines:
Main journal diameter. . . 54.00 mm (nominal)
Big-end journal diameter 47.80 mm (nominal)
Endfloat:
New 0.07 to 0.17 mm
Wear limit . 0.37 mm

Torque wrench settings
Refer to Chapter 2A, 2B or 2C as applicable.

However, they can be removed on all other alternator, can be overhauled as well. The
1 General information engines. end result should be an as-new engine that
1 It is not always easy to determine when, or will give many trouble-free miles. Critical
if, an engine should be completely overhauled, cooling system components such as the
as a number of factors must be considered. hoses, thermostat and coolant pump should
Included in this Part of Chapter 2 are details 2 High mileage is not necessarily an indication be renewed when an engine is overhauled.
of removing the engine from the car and that an overhaul is needed, while low mileage The radiator should be checked carefully, to
general overhaul procedures for the cylinder does not preclude the need for an overhaul. ensure that it is not clogged or leaking. Also, it
head, cylinder block and all other engine Frequency of servicing is probably the most is a good idea to renew the oil pump whenever
internal components. important consideration. An engine which has the engine is overhauled.
The information given ranges from advice had regular and frequent oil and filter changes, 7 Before beginning the engine overhaul, read
concerning preparation for an overhaul as well as other required maintenance, should through the entire procedure, to familiarise
and the purchase of new parts, to detailed give many thousands of miles of reliable yourself with the scope and requirements of
step-by-step procedures covering removal, service. Conversely, a neglected engine may the job. Overhauling an engine is not difficult
inspection, renovation and refitting of engine require an overhaul very early in its life. if you follow carefully all of the instructions,
internal components. 3 Excessive oil consumption is an indication have the necessary tools and equipment, and
After Section 6, all instructions are based that piston rings, valve seals and/or valve pay close attention to all specifications. It can,
on the assumption that the engine has been guides are in need of attention. Make sure that however, be time-consuming. Plan on the
removed from the car. For information oil leaks are not responsible before deciding car being off the road for a minimum of two
concerning in-car engine repair, as well as the that the rings and/or guides are worn. weeks, especially if parts must be taken to an
removal and refitting of those external Perform a compression (or leakdown) test, as engineering works for repair or reconditioning.
components necessary for full overhaul, refer described in Part A, B or C of this Chapter (as Check on the availability of parts and make
to the relevant in-car repair procedure section applicable), to determine the likely cause of sure that any necessary special tools and
(Chapters 2A, 2B and 2C) and to Section 5 of the problem. equipment are obtained in advance. Most work
this Chapter. Ignore any preliminary dis- 4 Check the oil pressure with a gauge fitted in can be done with typical hand tools, although
mantling operations described in the relevant place of the oil pressure switch, and compare a number of precision measuring tools are
in-car repair sections that are no longer it with that specified (see Specifications in required for inspecting parts to determine if
relevant once the engine has been removed Chapters 2A, 2B and 2C). If it is extremely low, they must be renewed. Often an engineering
from the car. the main and big-end bearings, and/or the oil works will handle the inspection of parts and
Apart from torque wrench settings, which pump, are probably worn. offer advice concerning reconditioning and
are given at the beginning of the relevant in-car 5 Loss of power, rough running, knocking or renewal. Always wait until the engine has
repair procedure in Chapters 2A, 2B or 2C, all metallic engine noises, excessive valve gear been completely dismantled, and until all
specifications relating to engine overhaul are noise, and high fuel consumption may also components (especially the cylinder block and
given at the beginning of this part of Chapter 2. point to the need for an overhaul, especially the crankshaft) have been inspected, before
if they are all present at the same time. If deciding what service and repair operations
a complete service does not remedy the must be performed by an engineering works.
2 Engine overhaul - situation, major mechanical work is the only The condition of these components will be the
general information solution. major factor to consider when determining
6 An engine overhaul involves restoring all whether to overhaul the original engine, or to
internal parts to the specification of a new buy a reconditioned unit. Do not, therefore,
Note 1: On all petrol engines, the crankshaft engine. During an overhaul, the pistons and purchase parts or have overhaul work done
must not be removed. Loosening the main the piston rings are renewed. New main and on other components until they have been
bearing cap bolts will cause deformation of big-end bearings are generally fitted (where thoroughly inspected. As a general rule, time
the cylinder block. If the crankshaft or main possible); if necessary, the crankshaft may be is the primary cost of an overhaul, so it does
bearing surfaces are worn or damaged, the renewed to restore the journals. The valves not pay to fit worn or sub-standard parts.
complete crankshaft/cylinder block assembly are also serviced as well, since they are 8 As a final note, to ensure maximum life and
must be renewed. usually in less-than-perfect condition at this minimum trouble from a reconditioned engine,
Note 2: On 1.2 litre petrol engines, the pistons point. While the engine is being overhauled, everything must be assembled with care, in a
and connecting rods must not be removed. other components, such as the starter and spotlessly-clean environment.
2D»4 Engine removal and overhaul procedure

4.5a Unscrew the four securing bolts . . . 4.5b ... a remove the battery tray 4.8 Disconnect the radiator top hose from
the thermostat housing
also prove u ful for keeping dismantled Chapter 5A, then remove the battery tray (see
3 Engine/transmission removal components c uped together. If any of the illustrations).
- preparation and precautions equipment mu be hired, make sure that you 6 Drain the cooling system as described in
arrange for it advance, and perform all of Chapter 1Aor 1B.
the operations ossible without it beforehand; 7 Apply the handbrake, then jack up the front
If you have decided that the engine must this may save u time and money. of the vehicle and support securely on axle
be removed for overhaul or major repair work, Plan on the ehicle being out of use for stands (see Jacking and vehicle support) and
several preliminary steps should be taken. quite a while, pecially if you intend to carry remove the engine undershield.
Locating a suitable place to work is out an engine overhaul. Read through the 8 Disconnect all coolant hoses from the
extremely important. Adequate work space, whole of this ction and work out a strategy engine, making a note of their fitted positions
along with storage space for the vehicle, will based on your wn experience, and the tools, (see illustration).
be needed. If a workshop or garage is not time and work pace available to you. Some 9 Disconnect the wiring from the engine and
available, at the very least a solid, level, clean of the overha processes may have to be transmission, noting its location and routing to
carried out by Seat dealer or an engineering aid refitting. Note that some of the wiring can
work surface is required.
works - these tablishments often have busy remain attached to the engine.
If possible, clear some shelving close to
schedules, so would be prudent to consult 10 On manual transmission models, dis-
the work area and use it to store the engine
them before moving or dismantling the connect the gearchange mechanism from the
components and ancillaries as they are
engine, to get n idea of the amount of time transmission (Chapter 7A), then unbolt the
removed and dismantled. In this manner, the
required to car out the work. clutch slave cylinder and position it to one side.
components stand a better chance of staying
When remo\e gmethodica
the engine from the vehicle, 11 On automatic transmission models,
clean and undamaged during the overhaul.
about the disconnection of disconnect the selector cable from the
Laying out components in groups, together
external comp nents. Labelling cables and transmission (Chapter 7B), then unbolt the
with their fixings bolts, screws, etc, will save
hoses as they removed will greatly assist bracket for the pressure line of the power
time and avoid confusion when the engine is steering.
refitted. the refitting pn ess.
Always be e •emely careful when lifting the 12 On petrol models, depressurise the fuel
Clean the engine compartment and engine system as described in Chapter 4A. Place a
engine from th jngine compartment. Serious
before beginning the removal procedure; wad of clean cloth around the fuel supply and
injury can re It from careless actions. If
this will help visibility and help to keep tools return hose connections on the right-hand
help is require it is better to wait until it is
clean. side of the engine compartment, then depress
available rathe han risk personal injury and/
The help of an assistant is essential; there the connector locking tabs, and disconnect
or damage t components by continuing
are certain instances when one person cannot the fuel line connectors. Be prepared for fuel
alone. By pla ing ahead and taking your
safely perform all of the operations required spillage, and take adequate fire precautions.
time, a job of s nature, although major, can
to remove the engine from the vehicle. 13 On diesel models, disconnect the fuel
be accomplis d successfully and without
Safety is of primary importance, considering hoses from the fuel filter. Be prepared for fuel
incident.
the potential hazards involved in this kind of spillage, and plug the open ends of the hoses
operation. A second person should always be and connections to prevent dirt entry and
in attendance to offer help in an emergency. 4 Engine id transmission - further fuel loss.
If this is the first time you have removed an removal nd refitting
14 Disconnect the following vacuum hoses:
engine, advice and aid from someone more a) Charcoal canister solenoid valve (petrol
experienced would also be beneficial. models only).
Plan the operation ahead of time. Before b) EGR valve.
starting work, obtain (or arrange for the hire Removal c) Brake servo hose on the intake manifold.
of) all of the tools and equipment you will 1 All engine re lifted together with the 15 On models without air conditioning, carry
need. Access to the following items will allow transmission fr n the front of the car after first out the following:
the task of removing and refitting the engine moving the loc carrier assembly to one side, a) Remove the front bumper and
to be completed safely and with relative ease: or removed co pletely on models without air crossmember, and the bonnet lock, with
a hoist and lifting tackle - rated in excess of conditioning. reference to Chapter 11.
the weight of the engine, complete sets of 2 Disconnect ie battery negative lead as b) Disconnect the headlight wiring.
spanners and sockets as described at the rear described in C pter 5A. c) On models with headlight washers,
of this manual, wooden blocks, and plenty 3 Remove the igine top cover. disconnect the washer supply tubing at
of rags and cleaning solvent for mopping-up 4 Remove the r cleaner and air ducting with the T-piece.
spilled oil, coolant and fuel. A selection reference to C pter 4A or 4B. d) Unbolt the lock carrier and remove from
of different-sized plastic storage bins will 5 Remove th battery as described in the front of the car.
Engine removal and overhaul procedures 2D»5

e) Remove the radiator with reference to
Chapter 3. 5 Engine overhaul -
16 On models with air conditioning, carry out preliminary information
the following:
a) Remove the front bumper and
crossmember, and the bonnet lock, with 1 It is much easier to dismantle and work on
reference to Chapter 11. the engine if it is mounted on a portable engine
b) Disconnect the headlight wiring. stand. These stands can often be hired from a
c) On models with headlight washers, tool hire shop. Before the engine is mounted
disconnect the washer supply tubing at on a stand, the flywheel should be removed,
the T-piece. so that the stand bolts can be tightened into
d) Unbolt the lock carrier and swivel it out the end of the cylinder block/crankcase. Note:
from the front of the car, leaving the air Do not measure cylinder bore dimensions with
conditioning lines still attached. Support the engine mounted on this type of stand. 4.22 Engine removal
the assembly on axle stands or blocks of 2 If a stand is not available, it is possible to
wood. dismantle the engine with it blocked up on fitted position of gaskets, seals, spacers, pins,
e) Remove the radiator and condenser with a sturdy workbench, or on the floor. Be very washers, bolts, and other small components.
reference to Chapter 3. careful not to tip or drop the engine when 4 If you are obtaining a short engine (the
f) Remove the auxiliary drivebelt as working without a stand. engine cylinder block/crankcase, crankshaft,
described in Chapter 1A or IB. 3 If you intend to obtain a reconditioned pistons and connecting rods, all fully
g) Disconnect the wiring from the air engine, all ancillaries must be removed first, assembled), then the cylinder head, sump, oil
conditioning compressor, then unbolt to be transferred to the new engine (just as pump, timing belt(s) and chain (as applicable -
it and tie it to the lock carrier. Do not they will if you are doing a complete engine together with tensioner(s) and covers), auxiliary
disconnect the refrigerant lines. overhaul yourself). These components include drivebelt (together with its tensioner), coolant
17 Remove the rear engine mounting/link with the following (it may be necessary to transfer pump, thermostat housing, coolant outlet
reference to the relevant part of Chapter 2. additional components, such as the oil level elbows, oil filter housing and where applicable
18 Remove the right-hand driveshaft as dipstick/tube assembly, oil filter housing, etc, oil cooler will also have to be removed.
described in Chapter 8, and disconnect the depending on which components are supplied 5 If you are planning a full overhaul, the engine
left-hand driveshaft from the transmission. with the reconditioned engine: can be dismantled in the order given below:
19 Remove the exhaust front section as a) Intake and exhaust manifolds (see the
described in Chapter 4C. Petrol engines relevant parts of Chapter 4).
20 Connect a hoist and lifting tackle to the a) Alternator (including mounting brackets) b) Timing chainfbelt(s), sprockets and
engine lifting brackets on the cylinder head, and starter motor (Chapter 5A). tensioner(s) (see Chapter 2A, 2B or 2C).
and raise the hoist to just take the weight of b) The ignition system components including c) Cylinder head (see Chapter 2A, 28 or 2C).
the engine. all sensors and spark plugs (Chapters 1A d) Flywheel/driveplate (see Chapter 2A, 28
21 Remove the right-hand and left-hand and 5B). or 2C).
engine/transmission mountings, with reference c) The fuel injection system components e) Sump (see Chapter 2A, 28 or 2C).
to the relevant part of Chapter 2. (Chapter 4A). f) Oil pump (see Chapter 2A, 28 or 2C).
22 Carefully lift the engine/transmission d) All electrical switches, actuators and g) Piston/connecting rod assemblies (see
assembly from the engine compartment until sensors, and the engine wiring harness Section 9).
it can be withdrawn from the front of the car (Chapters 3, 4A and 5B). h) Crankshaft (see Section 10).
(see illustration). e) Intake and exhaust manifolds (Chapters 4A
and 4C). 6 Cylinder head - ^
Refitting f) Engine mountings (Chapters 2A or 2B). dismantling |j^>
23 Refitting is a reversal of removal, bearing g) Clutch components (Chapter 6).
in mind the following points: h) Oil separator (where applicable).
a) Ensure that any brackets noted before
removal are in place on the engine-to- Diesel engines Note: A valve spring compressor tool will be
transmission bolts. a) Alternator (including mounting brackets) required for this operation.
b) Tighten all fixings to the specified torque, and starter motor (Chapter 5A).
where given. b) The glow plug/preheating system
Petrol engines
c) Refit the engine mountings with reference components (Chapter 5A). 1 With the cylinder head removed as
to Chapter 2A, 28 or 2C. c) All fuel system components, fuel injectors, described in the relevant part of Chapter 2,
d) Reconnect the driveshafts to the all sensors and actuators (Chapter 4B). proceed as follows.
transmission with reference to Chapter 8. d) The brake vacuum/tandem pump 2 Remove the intake and exhaust manifolds
e) Check that all wiring, hoses and pipes (Chapter 9). as described in Chapter 4A or 4C.
are correctly reconnected and routed as e) All electrical switches, actuators and 3 Remove the camshaft(s) and hydraulic
noted before removal. sensors, and the engine wiring harness tappets/roller rocker fingers as described in
f) Ensure that the fuel lines are correctly (Chapters 3, 4B and 5C). Chapter 2A or 2B.
reconnected. f) Intake and exhaust manifolds, and 4 If desired, unbolt the coolant housing from the
g) On completion, refill the cooling system turbocharger (Chapters 4B and 4C). rear of the cylinder head, and recover the seal.
as described in Chapter 1A or IB. On g) Engine mountings (Chapter 2C). 5 Where applicable, remove the camshaft
models with automatic transmission, h) Clutch components (Chapter 6). position sensor, with reference to Chapter 4A,
check and if necessary top-up the Section 4.
automatic transmission fluid level as All engines 6 Where applicable, unscrew the securing
described in Chapter 1A. Note: When removing the external components nut, and recover the washer, and remove the
h) Have the engine management system from the engine, pay close attention to details timing belt tensioner pulley from the stud on
checked for fault codes by a Seat dealer. that may be helpful during refitting. Note the the cylinder head.
2D»6 Engine removal and overhaul procedure

Yi

6.9a Compress the valve springs with a 6.9b Rei loving the spring cap . . . 6.9c . . . and valve spring
compressor tool
7 Unbolt any remaining auxiliary brackets Diesel ens nes paying particular attention to the camshaft
and/or engine lifting brackets from the cylinder 13 With the bearing surfaces, hydraulic tappet bores,
cylinder head removed as
head as necessary, noting their locations described in C lapter 2C, proceed as follows. valve guides and oilways. Scrape off any
to aid refitting. Where applicable, unscrew 14 Remove tf e intake and exhaust manifolds traces of old gasket from the mating surfaces,
the securing bolt and remove the secondary as described i Chapters 4B and 4C. taking care not to score or gouge them. If
timing belt tensioner from the timing belt end 15 Remove he camshaft and hydraulic using emery paper, do not use a grade of less
of the cylinder head. tappets, as de >cribed in Chapter 2C. than 100. Turn the head over and, using a
8 Turn the cylinder head over, and rest it on 16 Remove tt glow plugs, with reference to blunt blade, scrape any carbon deposits from
one side. Chapter 5A. the combustion chambers and ports. Finally,
9 Using a valve spring compressor, compress 17 Remove t e fuel injectors, with reference wash the entire head casting with a suitable
each valve spring in turn, until the split collets to Chapter 4B solvent to remove the remaining debris.
can be removed. Release the compressor, and 18 Unscrew ne nut and remove the timing 3 Clean the valve heads and stems using
lift off the spring cap and spring. If, when the belt tensione pulley from the stud on the a fine wire brush (or a power-operated wire
valve spring compressor is screwed down, the timing belt en of the cylinder head, brush). If the valve is covered with heavy
spring cap refuses to free and expose the split 19 Unbolt an remaining auxiliary brackets carbon deposits, scrape off the majority of the
collets, gently tap the top of the tool, directly and/or engine fting brackets from the cylinder deposits with a blunt blade first, then use the
over the spring cap, with a light hammer. This head as nece sary, noting their locations to wire brush.
will free the retainer (see illustrations). aid refitting. 4 Thoroughly clean the remainder of the
10 Using a pair of pliers, or a removal tool, 20 Proceed as described in paragraphs 8 to 12. components using solvent and allow them to
carefully extract the valve stem oil seal from dry completely. Discard the oil seals, as new
the top of the valve guide (see illustrations). 7 Cylinde head and valves - ones must be fitted when the cylinder head is
11 Withdraw the valve from the gasket side cleaniru and inspection reassembled.
of the cylinder head (see illustration).
12 It is essential that each valve is stored Inspect/on
together with its collets, cap, spring and Cylinder head
spring seat. The valves should be kept in their 1 Thorough c janing of the cylinder head and
correct sequences, unless they are so badly valve compo ents, followed by a detailed Note: If the valve seats are to be reground,
worn that they are to be renewed. inspection, w II enable you to decide how ensure that the maximum permissible
much valve se "vice work must be carried out reworking dimension is not exceeded (the
tnev are going to be kept during engine overhaul. Note: If the engine maximum dimension will only allow minimal
j j &nd used again, place each has been sev <rely overheated, it is best to reworking to produce a perfect seal between
|HlRIT| valve assembly in a labelled assume that he cylinder head is warped - valve and seat). If the maximum dimension is
polythene bag or similar check carefull_ for signs of this. exceeded, the function of the hydraulic tappets
small container. Label each bag, noting cannot be guaranteed, and the cylinder head
that No 1 valve is nearest to the timing Cleaning must be renewed. Refer to paragraph 6 for
belt/chain end of the cylinder head. 2 Using a sui able degreasing agent, remove details of how to calculate the maximum
all traces of oil deposits from the cylinder head, permissible reworking dimension.

6.10a Use a removal tool 6.10b .. . t remove the valve stem oil 6.11 Remove the valves
seals
Engine removal and overhaul procedures 2D*7

7.7 Measure the distortion of the cylinder 7.10 Measure the diameter of the valve
head gasket surface stems using a micrometer
7.6 Distance (A) between top of valve stem
and top surface of cylinder head
5 Examine the head casting closely to
identify any damage or cracks that may have
developed. Cracks can often be identified
from evidence of coolant or oil leakage. Pay
particular attention to the areas around the
valve seats and spark plug/fuel injector holes.
If cracking is discovered in this area, Seat
state that, on diesel engines, the cylinder
head may be re-used, provided the cracks
are no larger than 0.5 mm wide. More serious
damage will mean the renewal of the cylinder
head casting. 7.13 Measure the free length of each valve 7.14 Check the squareness of the valve
6 Moderately pitted and scorched valve seats spring springs
can be repaired by lapping the valves in during
Valves and associated components manufacturer's figure is not quoted, the only
reassembly, as described later in this Chapter, way to check the length of the springs is by
however the maximum permissible reworking Note: On all engines, the valve heads cannot
be recut, although they may be lapped in. comparison with a new component. Note that
dimension must not be exceeded, which will valve springs are usually renewed during a
only allow minimal reworking (see note at 10 Examine each valve closely for signs of
wear. Inspect the valve stems for wear ridges, major engine overhaul (see illustration).
beginning of paragraph 5). To calculate the 14 Stand each spring on its end on a flat
maximum permissible reworking dimension, scoring or variations in diameter; measure
their diameters at several points along their surface, against an engineer's square (see
proceed as follows (see illustration): illustration). Check the squareness of the spring
a) If a new valve is to be fitted, use the new lengths with a micrometer, and compare with
the figures given in the Specifications (see visually, and renew it if it appears distorted.
valve for the following calculation. 15 Renew the valve stem oil seals regardless
b) Insert the valve into its guide in the illustration).
11 The valve heads should not be cracked, of their apparent condition.
cylinder head, and push the valve firmly
on to its seat. badly pitted or charred. Note that light pitting
of the valve head can be rectified by lapping-in 8 Cylinder head -
c) Measure the distance between the
top face of the valve stem and the top the valves during reassembly, as described in reassembly
surface of the cylinder head. Record the Section 8.
measurement obtained. 12 Check that the valve stem end face is
d) Consult the Specifications, and compare free from excessive pitting or indentation; Note: A valve spring compressor tool will be
the measured distance with that given in this could be caused by defective hydraulic required for this operation.
the Specifications. tappets. 1 To achieve a gas-tight seal between the
7 Measure any distortion of the gasket 13 Using vernier calipers, measure the free valves and their seats, it will be necessary
surfaces using a straight-edge and a set length of each of the valve springs. As a to lap-in (or grind-in) the valves. To complete
of feeler blades. Take one measurement this process you will need a quantity of fine/
longitudinally on the manifold mating coarse grinding paste and a grinding tool -
surface(s). Take several measurements across this can either be of the rubber sucker type, or
the head gasket surface, to assess the level the automatic type which is driven by a rotary
of distortion in all planes (see illustration). power tool.
Compare the measurements with the figures 2 Smear a small quantity of fine grinding
in the Specifications. paste on the sealing face of the valve head.
8 On petrol engines, if the head is distorted Turn the cylinder head over so that the
beyond the specified limit, it may be possible combustion chambers are facing upwards
to have it machined by an engineering works, and insert the valve into the correct guide.
provided that the minimum permissible Attach the grinding tool to the valve head and
cylinder head height is maintained. using a backward/forward rotary action, grind
9 On diesel engines, if the head is distorted the valve head into its seat. Periodically lift the
beyond the specified limit, the head must be 8.2 Grinding-in a valve valve and rotate it to redistribute the grinding
renewed. paste (see illustration).
2D»8 Engine removal and overhaul procedure

***'•

8.8a Lubricate the valve stem with clean 8.8b Fit a pro ective sleeve over the valve 8.9 Using a special installer to fit a valve
engine oil stem bef re fitting the stem seal stem oil seal
3 Continue this process until the contact remove all tra( s of grinding paste from the spring seats correctly on the cylinder head
between valve and seat produces an cylinder head nd valves using solvent, and (see illustration).
unbroken, matt grey ring of uniform width, allow the head nd valves to dry completely. 11 Fit the upper spring seat over the top of the
on both faces. Repeat the operation on the 7 Turn the cylir der head on its side. spring then, using a valve spring compressor,
remaining valves. 8 Working on ne valve at a time, lubricate compress the spring until the upper seat is
4 If the valves and seats are so badly pitted the valve ster with clean engine oil, and pushed beyond the collet grooves in the valve
that coarse grinding paste must be used, insert the valv into its guide. Fit one of the stem. Refit the split collets. Gradually release
bear in that there is a maximum permissible protective plas c sleeves supplied with the the spring compressor, checking that the
reworking dimension for the valves and seats. new valve sten oil seals over the end of the collets remain correctly seated as the spring
Refer to the Specifications at the beginning valve stem - th will protect the oil seal as it is extends. When correctly seated, the upper
of this Chapter for the limits, and note that being fitted (se illustrations). spring seat should force the collets securely
if exceeded due to excessive lapping-in, the 9 Dip a new v ve stem seal in clean engine into the grooves in the end of the valve stem
hydraulic tappets may not operate correctly, oil, and carefu push it over the valve stem (see illustrations).
and the cylinder head must be renewed. and onto the to of the valve guide - take care
Use a little dab of grease to
5 Assuming the repair is feasible, work as not to damag the stem seal as it is fitted,
Use a suitable ng-reach socket or a suitable
GH2S3 hold the collets in position
described previously, but use coarse grinding
paste initially, to achieve a dull finish on the valve stem sec fitting tool to press the seal HINT on the valve stem while
the spring compressor is
valve face and seat. Wash off the coarse paste firmly into posi on (see illustration). Remove
with solvent and repeat the process using fine the protective: eeve from the valve stem, released.
grinding paste to obtain the correct finish. 10 Locate the valve spring over the valve
6 When all the valves have been ground in, stem, ensurin that the lower end of the 12 Repeat this process for the remaining
sets of valve components, ensuring that
all components are refitted to their original
locations. To settle the components after
installation, strike the end of each valve
stem with a mallet, using a block of wood to
protect the stem from damage. Check before
progressing any further that the split collets
remain firmly seated in the grooves in the end
of the valve stem.
Petrol engines
13 Refit the brackets previously removed,
and also where applicable refit the secondary
8.10 Fit the valve spring 8.11a F the upper spring seat timing belt tensioner.
14 Where applicable, refit the timing belt
tensioner pulley on the stud, and loosely refit
the securing nut and washer.
15 Where applicable, refit the camshaft
position sensor, with reference to Chapter 4A.
16 If removed, refit the coolant housing to the
cylinder head, together with a new seal, and
tighten the mounting bolts.
17 Refit the camshafts and hydraulic tappets/
roller rocker fingers with reference to Chap-
ter 2A or 2B.
f. 18 Refit the intake and exhaust manifolds
with reference to Chapter 4A and 4C.
Diesel engines
8.11 b Use grease to hold the split collets 8.11c Compr ss the valve spring using a 19 Refit the brackets previously removed,
in the groove compressor >ol - 1.4 litre petrol engine then refit the timing belt tensioner pulley on
Engine removal and overhaul procedures 2D»9

1
9.3 Mark the big-end caps and connecting 9.6a Unscrew the big-end bearing cap 9.6b . . . and remove the cap
rods with their cylinder numbers (arrowed) bolts .. .
the stud, and loosely refit the securing nut and suitable mark should be made on the piston up through the bore, and remove it from the
washer. crown using a scriber - do not deeply score top of the cylinder block. Where applicable,
20 Refit the fuel injectors, with reference to the piston crown, but ensure that the mark is take care not to damage the piston cooling oil
Chapter 4B. easily visible. spray jets in the cylinder block as the piston/
21 Refit the glow plugs, with reference to 5 Turn the crankshaft to bring No 1 piston to connecting rod assembly is removed. Recover
Chapter 5A. bottom dead centre (on 4-cylinder engines, the upper bearing shell, and tape it to the
22 Refit the camshaft and hydraulic tappets, No 4 piston will also be at BDC). connecting rod for safe-keeping.
with reference to Chapter 2C. 6 Unscrew the bolts or nuts, as applicable, 9 Loosely refit the big-end cap to the
23 Refit the intake and exhaust manifolds (and from No 1 piston big-end bearing cap. Lift off connecting rod, and secure with the bolts or
turbocharger) with reference to Chapters 4B the cap, and recover the bottom half bearing nuts, as applicable - this will help to keep the
and 4C. shell. If the bearing shells are to be re-used, components in their correct order.
tape the cap and bearing shell together. Note 10 On 4-cylinder engines, remove No 4 piston
9 Piston/connecting rod Jk, that if the bearing shells are to be re-used, assembly in the same way.
assemblies - ^ they must be fitted to the original connecting 11 Turn the crankshaft as necessary to bring
removal ^k rod and cap (see illustrations). No 2 piston to bottom dead centre, and
7 Where the bearing caps are secured with remove them in the same way (on 4-cylinder
Caution: The pistons and connecting rods nuts, wrap the threaded ends of the bolts with engines, No 3 piston will also be at BDC).
must not be removed on 1.2 litre petrol insulating tape to prevent them scratching 12 Where applicable, remove the securing
engines. the crankpins and bores when the pistons are bolts, and withdraw the piston cooling oil
1 Remove the cylinder head, sump, oil baffle removed (see illustration). spray jets from the bottom of the cylinder
and oil pump pick-up pipe with reference 8 Using a hammer handle, push the piston block (see illustrations).
to Chapter 2B or 2C. On 3-cylinder diesel
engines, also remove the balancer shaft
assembly.
2 Inspect the tops of the cylinder bores for
ridges at the point where the pistons reach
top dead centre. These must be removed,
otherwise the pistons may be damaged when
they are pushed out of their bores. Use a
scraper or ridge reamer to remove the ridges.
Such a ridge indicates excessive wear of the
cylinder bore.
3 Check the connecting rods and big-end
caps for identification markings. Both
connecting rods and caps should be marked 9.7 Wrap the threaded ends of the bolts 9.12a Remove the securing bolts
with the cylinder number on one side of each (arrowed) with tape
assembly. Note that No 1 cylinder is at the
timing belt end of the engine. If no marks are
present, using a hammer and centre-punch,
paint or similar, mark each connecting rod
and big-end bearing cap with its respective
cylinder number - note on which side of the
connecting rods and caps the marks are made
(see illustration).
4 Similarly, check the piston crowns for
direction markings. An arrow on each piston
crown should point towards the timing belt
end of the engine. On some engines, this mark
may be obscured by carbon build-up, in which
case the piston crown should be cleaned to
check for a mark. In some cases, the direction 9.12b . .. and withdraw the piston cooling 9.12c Piston cooling spray jet and retainer
arrow may have worn off, in which case a oil spray jets
2D»10 Engine removal and overhaul proced jres

to prevent rusting. If you have access to
compressed air, use it to speed up the drying
process, and to blow out all the oil holes and
galleries.
Warning: Wear eye protection
m when using compressed air.
5 If the castings are not very dirty, you can
do an adequate cleaning job with hot, soapy
water and a stiff brush. Take plenty of time,
and do a thorough job. Regardless of the
cleaning method used, be sure to clean all
oil holes and galleries very thoroughly, and to
10.5 Slacken and remove the main bearing 10.6 Lift tl||e crankshaft from the cylinder dry all components well. Protect the cylinder
cap bolts block bores as described above, to prevent rusting.
bolts, and lit off each cap. If the caps appear 6 Where applicable, check the piston cooling
10 Crankshaft |k to be stuck, ap them with a soft-faced mallet oil spray jets for damage, and renew if
(diesel engines) - g^> to free ther i from the cylinder block (see necessary. Check the oil spray hole and the oil
removal ^k illustration). Recover the lower bearing shells, passages for blockage.
and tape the n to their caps for safe-keeping. 7 All threaded holes must be clean, to ensure
Caution: On petrol engines, the crankshaft 6 Lift the crankshaft from the cylinder block accurate torque readings during reassembly.
must not be removed. Loosening the main (see illustration). Take care, as the crankshaft To clean the threads, run the correct-size
bearing cap bolts will cause deformation is heavy. On engines with a crankshaft speed/ tap into each of the holes to remove rust,
of the cylinder block. On these engines, if position ser or fitted, lay the crankshaft on corrosion, thread sealant or sludge, and to
the crankshaft or main bearing surfaces wooden bloc <s - do not rest the crankshaft on restore damaged threads (see illustration). If
are worn or damaged, the complete the sensor eel. possible, use compressed air to clear the holes
crankshaft/cylinder block assembly must 7 Recover upper bearing shells from free of debris produced by this operation.
be renewed. The following procedure only the cylinder block, and tape them to their Take extra care to exclude all cleaning liquid
applies to diesel engines. respective c jps for safe-keeping. Similarly, from blind tapped holes, as the casting may
Note: If no work is to be done on the pistons recover the pper crankshaft endfloat control be cracked by hydraulic action if a bolt is
and connecting rods, there is no need to thrustwasher halves from either side of No 3 threaded into a hole containing liquid.
remove the cylinder head and push the pistons main bearin noting their orientation,
out of the cylinder bores. The pistons should 8 On engin s with a crankshaft speed/ A good alternative is to
just be pushed far enough up the bores so position se or wheel fitted, unscrew the inject aerosol-applied water
that they are positioned clear of the crankshaft securing bol and remove the sensor wheel, dispersant lubricant into
journals. noting which ray round it is fitted. each hole, using the long
1 Remove the timing belt and crankshaft spout usually supplied.
sprocket, sump and oil baffle plate, oil pump 11 Cylind T block/crankcase - |k Warning: Wear eye protection
when cleaning out these
and pick-up pipe, flywheel, and the crankshaft cleanir and inspection g^
oil seal housings, as described in Chapter 2C. holes in this way.
2 Remove the pistons and connecting rods,
or disconnect them from the crankshaft, as
described in Section 9. 8 After coating the mating surfaces of the
Cleaning new core plugs with suitable sealant, fit them
3 Check the crankshaft endfloat as described
1 Remove I external components and to the cylinder block. Make sure that they
in Section 13, then proceed as follows.
electrical sw :ches/sensors from the block, are driven in straight and seated correctly, or
4 The main bearing caps should be numbered
including m unting brackets, the coolant leakage could result.
1 to 5 (4-cylinder) or 4 (3-cylinder) from the
pump, the o filter/cooler housing, etc. For
timing belt end of the engine. If the bearing
complete cl ning, the core plugs should
caps are not marked, mark them accordingly A large socket with an
ideally be re oved. Drill a small hole in the
using a centre-punch. Note the orientation of outside diameter which will
plugs, then i sert a self-tapping screw into
the markings to ensure correct refitting. just fit into the core plug can
the hole. Extr ict the plugs by pulling on the be used to drive the core
5 Slacken and remove the main bearing cap
screw with a air of grips, or by using a slide plug into position.
hammer.
2 Scrape all t ices of gasket and sealant from
the cylinder b >ck/crankcase, taking care not 9 Apply suitable sealant to the new oil gallery
to damage th sealing surfaces, plugs, and insert them into the holes in the
3 Remove all oil gallery plugs (where fitted), block. Tighten them securely.
The plugs a usually very tight - they 10 If the engine is not going to be reassembled
may have to >e drilled out, and the holes immediately, cover it with a large plastic bag
retapped. Us new plugs when the engine is to keep it clean; protect all mating surfaces
reassembled. and the cylinder bores, to prevent rusting.
4 If the castin is extremely dirty, it should be
steam-cleanei After this, clean all oil holes Inspection
and galleries c ne more time. Flush all internal 11 Visually check the castings for cracks
passages with warm water until the water runs and corrosion. Look for stripped threads
11.7 To clean the cylinder block threads, clear. Dry thor ughly, and apply a light film of in the threaded holes. If there has been any
run a correct-size tap into the holes oil to all matir 3 surfaces and cylinder bores, history of internal coolant leakage, it may
Engine removal and overhaul procedures 2D«11

be worthwhile having an engine overhaul 3 If any of the rings appears to be worn or
specialist check the cylinder block/crankcase damaged, or has an end gap significantly
for cracks with special equipment. If defects different from the specified value, the usual
are found, have them repaired, if possible, or course of action is to renew all of them as a
renew the assembly. set. Note: While it is usual to renew piston
12 Check each cylinder bore for scuffing and rings when an engine is overhauled, they
scoring. may be re-used if in acceptable condition. If
13 If in any doubt as the condition of the re-using the rings, make sure that each ring
cylinder block have the block/bores inspected is marked during removal to ensure that it is
and measured by an engine reconditioning refitted correctly.
specialist. They will be able to advise on 4 Carefully expand the old rings over the
whether the block is serviceable, whether top of the pistons. The use of two or three
a rebore is necessary, and supply the old feeler blades will be helpful in preventing
appropriate pistons and rings. the rings dropping into empty grooves (see 12.4 Old feeler blades can be used to
14 If the bores are in reasonably good illustration). Be careful not to scratch the prevent piston rings from dropping into
condition and not excessively worn, then it piston with the ends of the ring. The rings are empty grooves
may only be necessary to renew the piston brittle, and will snap if they are spread too holes, and at the piston ring 'lands' (between
rings. far. They are also very sharp - protect your the ring grooves).
15 If this is the case, the bores should be hands and fingers. Note that the third ring 13 Look for scoring and scuffing on the piston
honed, to allow the new rings to bed-in incorporates an expander. Keep each set of skirt, holes in the piston crown, and burned
correctly and provide the best possible seal. rings with its piston if the old rings are to be areas at the edge of the crown. If the skirt is
Consult an engine reconditioning specialist. re-used. Note which way up each ring is fitted scored or scuffed, the engine may have been
16 On diesel engines, if the oil filter/cooler to ensure correct refitting. suffering from overheating, and/or abnormal
housing was removed, it can be refitted at this 5 Scrape away all traces of carbon from the combustion which caused excessively high
stage if wished. Use a new gasket, and before top of the piston. A hand-held wire brush operating temperatures. The cooling and
fully tightening the bolts, align the housing (or a piece of fine emery cloth) can be used, lubrication systems should be checked
faces with those of the engine block. once the majority of the deposits have been thoroughly.
17 The cylinder block/crankcase should scraped away. 14 Scorch marks on the sides of the pistons
now be completely clean and dry, with all 6 Remove the carbon from the ring grooves show that blow-by has occurred.
components checked for wear or damage, in the piston, using an old ring. Break the ring 15 A hole in the piston crown, or burned areas
and repaired or overhauled as necessary. in half to do this (be careful not to cut your at the edge of the piston crown, indicates that
18 Apply a light coating of engine oil to the fingers - piston rings are sharp). Be careful abnormal combustion (pre-ignition, knocking,
mating surfaces and cylinder bores to prevent to remove only the carbon deposits - do not or detonation) has been occurring.
rust forming. remove any metal, and do not nick or scratch 16 If any of the above problems exist, the
19 Refit as many ancillary components as the sides of the ring grooves. causes must be investigated and corrected,
possible, for safe-keeping. If reassembly is 7 Once the deposits have been removed, or the damage will occur again. The causes
not to start immediately, cover the block with a clean the piston/connecting rod assembly may include incorrect ignition/injection pump
large plastic bag to keep it clean, and protect with paraffin or a suitable solvent, and dry timing, intake air leaks or incorrect air/fuel
the machined surfaces as described above to thoroughly. Make sure that the oil return holes mixture (petrol engines), or a faulty fuel injector
prevent rusting. in the ring grooves are clear. (diesel engines).
Inspect/on 17 Corrosion of the piston, in the form of pitting,
12 Piston/connecting rod indicates that coolant has been leaking into the
8 If the pistons and cylinder bores are not combustion chamber and/or the crankcase.
assemblies - g^ damaged or worn excessively, and if the
cleaning and inspection ^ Again, the cause must be corrected, or the
cylinder block does not need to be rebored, problem may persist in the rebuilt engine.
the original pistons can be refitted. 18 Locate a new piston ring in the
9 Using a micrometer, measure the diameter appropriate groove and measure the ring-
Cleaning of all four pistons at a point 10 mm from the to-groove clearance using a feeler blade
1 Before the inspection process can begin, bottom of the skirt, at right-angles to the (see illustration). Note that the rings are of
the piston/connecting rod assemblies must be gudgeon pin axis (see illustration). Compare different widths, so use the correct ring for
cleaned, and the original piston rings removed the measurements with those listed in the the groove. Compare the measurements with
from the pistons. Specifications. Note that the piston size those listed; if the clearances are outside of
2 The rings should have smooth, grades are stamped on the piston crowns.
polished working surfaces, with no dull 10 If the piston diameter is incorrect for its
or carbon-coated sections (showing that particular size, then it must be renewed. If the
the ring is not sealing correctly against the cylinder block was rebored during a previous
bore wall, so allowing combustion gases overhaul, oversize pistons may already have
to blow-by) and no traces of wear on their been fitted. Record all of the measurements
top and bottom surfaces. The end gaps and use them to check the piston clearances
should be clear of carbon, but not polished against the cylinder bore measurements made
(indicating a too-small end gap), and all in Section 11.
the rings (including the elements of the oil 11 Normal piston wear shows up as even
control ring) should be free to rotate in their vertical wear on the piston thrust surfaces,
grooves, but without excessive up-and-down and slight looseness of the top ring in its
movement. If the rings appear to be in good groove. New piston rings should always be
condition, they are probably fit for further used when the engine is reassembled.
use; check the end gaps (in an unworn part 12 Carefully inspect each piston for cracks 12.9 Use a micrometer to measure the
of the bore) as described in Section 16. around the skirt, around the gudgeon pin diameter of a piston
2D«12 Engine removal and overhaul procedu •es

12.18 Measure the piston ring-to-groove 12.22a Use i small flat-bladed screwdriver 12.22b . . . then push out the gudgeon pin
clearance using a feeler blade to | rise out the circlip . . . and separate the piston and connecting rod

with gudgeon pins and circlips. Circlips can
also be purchased individually.
25 The orientation of the piston with respect
to the connecting rod must be correct when
the two are reassembled. The piston crown is
marked with an arrow (which may be obscured
by carbon deposits). The arrow must point
towards the timing belt end of the engine when
the piston is installed. The connecting rod and its
bearing cap both have recesses machined into
them on one side, close to their mating surfaces
H31999 - these recesses must both face the same way
as the arrow on the piston crown when correctly
12.25a The piston crown arrow must point 12.25b Th t connecting rod and bearing installed. Reassemble the two components to
towards the timing belt end cap rece: ses (arrowed) must face the satisfy this requirement (see illustrations).
timing belt end 26 Apply a smear of clean engine oil to the
the tolerance band, then the piston must be pin (see illustrations). Hand pressure should gudgeon pin. Slide it into the piston and
renewed. Confirm this by checking the width be sufficient to remove the pin. Identify the through the connecting rod small-end. Check
of the piston ring with a micrometer. piston and r< d to ensure correct reassembly, that the piston pivots freely on the rod, then
secure the gudgeon pin in position with
19 New pistons can be purchased from a Seat Discard the rclips - new ones must be used
two new circlips. Ensure that each circlip is
dealer or engine reconditioning specialist. on refitting, III the gudgeon pin proves difficult
correctly located in its groove in the piston.
20 Examine each connecting rod carefully to remove, the piston to 60°C with hot
27 Repeat the cleaning and inspection
for signs of damage, such as cracks around water - the r suiting expansion will then allow
process for the remaining pistons and
the big-end and small-end bearings. Check the two corri| onents to be separated,
connecting rods.
that the rod is not bent or distorted. Damage 23 Examine the gudgeon pin and connecting
is highly unlikely, unless the engine has been rod small--er d bearing for signs of wear or
seized or badly overheated. Detailed checking damage. It ; hould be possible to push the 13 Crankshaft (diesel engines) - |k
of the connecting rod assembly can only be gudgeon pin through the connecting rod bush checking endfloat ^
carried out by a Seat dealer or engine repair by hand, without noticeable play. Wear can and inspection Sk
specialist with the necessary equipment. be cured by enewing both the pin and bush.
21 The gudgeon pins are of the floating Bush renew I, however, is a specialist job -
type, secured in position by two circlips. The press facilitie|fe are required, and the new bush Checking endfloat
pistons and connecting rods can be separated must be rear ed accurately. 1 If the crankshaft endfloat is to be checked,
as follows. 24 Examine all components, and obtain this must be done when the crankshaft is still
22 Using a small flat-bladed screwdriver, prise any new pa ts required. If new pistons are installed in the cylinder block/crankcase, but
out the circlips, and push out the gudgeon purchased, hey will be supplied complete is free to move (see Section 10).
2 Check the endfloat using a dial gauge
in contact with the end of the crankshaft.
Push the crankshaft fully one way, and then
zero the gauge. Push the crankshaft fully the
other way, and check the endfloat. The result
can be compared with the specified amount,
and will give an indication as to whether
new thrustwasher halves are required (see
illustration). Note that all thrustwashers must
be of the same thickness.
3 If a dial gauge is not available, feeler blades
can be used. First push the crankshaft fully
towards the flywheel end of the engine, then
use feeler blades to measure the gap between
13.2 Measure crankshaft endfloat using a 13.3 . . or a set of feeler blades the web of No 3 crankpin and the thrustwasher
dial gauge . . . halves (see illustration).
Engine removal and overhaul procedures 2D«13

Inspection especially when parts are not thoroughly the entire procedure to familiarise yourself
4 Clean the crankshaft using paraffin or a cleaned using the proper cleaning methods. with the work involved, and to ensure that all
suitable solvent, and dry it, preferably with Whatever the source, these foreign objects items necessary for reassembly of the engine
compressed air if available. Be sure to clean often end up embedded in the soft bearing are at hand. In addition to all normal tools and
the oil holes with a pipe cleaner or similar material, and are easily recognised. Large materials, thread-locking compound will be
probe, to ensure that they are not obstructed. particles will not embed in the bearing, and needed. A suitable tube of liquid sealant will
will score or gouge the bearing and journal. also be required for the joint faces that are
Warning: Wear eye protection The best prevention for this cause of bearing fitted without gaskets.
when using compressed air. failure is to clean all parts thoroughly, and 2 In order to save time and avoid problems,
keep everything spotlessly-clean during engine reassembly can be carried out in the
5 Have the crankshaft inspected by a Seat engine assembly. Frequent and regular engine following order, referring to Part A, B or C
dealer or engine reconditioning specialist. oil and filter changes are also recommended. of this Chapter. Where applicable, use new
They will have the measuring tools and the 5 Lack of lubrication (or lubrication gaskets and seals when refitting the various
experience to accurately check the crankshaft, breakdown) has a number of interrelated components.
regrind the crankshaft (where possible), and causes. Excessive heat (which thins the oil), a) Crankshaft (Section 17).
supply the correct size of bearing shells. overloading (which squeezes the oil from the b) Piston/connecting rod assemblies
6 Big-end bearing wear is accompanied by bearing face) and oil leakage (from excessive (Section 18).
distinct metallic knocking when the engine bearing clearances, worn oil pump or high c) Oil pump.
is running (particularly noticeable when the engine speeds) all contribute to lubrication d) Sump.
engine is pulling from low speed) and some breakdown. Blocked oil passages, which e) Flywheel'/driveplate.
loss of oil pressure. usually are the result of misaligned oil holes in f) Cylinder head.
7 Main bearing wear is accompanied by a bearing shell, will also oil-starve a bearing, g) Timing chainibelt(s), fens/oner and
severe engine vibration and rumble - getting and destroy it. When lack of lubrication is the sprockets.
progressively worse as engine speed cause of bearing failure, the bearing material h) Intake and exhaust manifolds,
increases - and again by loss of oil pressure. is wiped or extruded from the steel backing of i) Engine external components.
the bearing. Temperatures may increase to the 3 At this stage, all engine components should
14 Main and big-end bearings - |k point where the steel backing turns blue from be absolutely clean and dry, with all faults
inspection g^ overheating. repaired. The components should be laid out
6 Driving habits can have a definite effect on (or in individual containers) on a completely
bearing life. Full-throttle, low-speed operation clean work surface.
(labouring the engine) puts very high loads
Inspection on bearings, tending to squeeze out the oil 16 Piston rings- §k,
1 Even though the main and big-end bearings film. These loads cause the bearings to flex, refitting g^>
should be renewed during the engine overhaul, which produces fine cracks in the bearing
the old bearings should be retained for close face (fatigue failure). Eventually, the bearing
examination, as they may reveal valuable material will loosen in pieces, and tear away 1 Before fitting new piston rings, the ring end
information about the condition of the engine. from the steel backing. gaps must be checked as follows.
The bearing shells are graded by thickness, 7 Short-distance driving leads to corrosion 2 Lay out the piston/connecting rod assemblies
the grade of each shell being indicated by the of bearings, because insufficient engine heat and the new piston ring sets, so that the ring
colour code marked on it. is produced to drive off the condensed water sets will be matched with the same piston and
2 Bearing failure can occur due to lack of and corrosive gases. These products collect in cylinder during the end gap measurement and
lubrication, the presence of dirt or other the engine oil, forming acid and sludge. As the subsequent engine reassembly.
foreign particles, overloading the engine, or oil is carried to the engine bearings, the acid
corrosion (see illustration). Regardless of the attacks and corrodes the bearing material.
FATIGUE FAILURE IMPROPER SEATING
cause of bearing failure, the cause must be 8 Incorrect bearing installation during engine
corrected (where applicable) before the engine assembly will lead to bearing failure as
is reassembled, to prevent it from happening well. Tight-fitting bearings leave insufficient
again. bearing running clearance, and will result in
3 When examining the bearing shells, remove oil starvation. Dirt or foreign particles trapped
them from the cylinder block/crankcase, behind a bearing shell result in high spots on
the connecting rods and the connecting rod the bearing, which lead to failure.
big-end bearing caps. Lay them out on a 9 Do not touch any shell's bearing surface SCRATCHED BY DIRT LACK OF OIL
clean surface in the same general position as with your fingers during reassembly: there is
their location in the engine. This will enable a risk of scratching the delicate surface, or of
you to match any bearing problems with the depositing particles of dirt on it.
corresponding crankshaft journal. Do not 10 As mentioned at the beginning of this
touch any shell's bearing surface with your Section, the bearing shells should be renewed OVERLAY WIPED OUT
DIRT EMBEDDED INTO
fingers while checking it, or the delicate as a matter of course during engine overhaul; BEARING MATERIAL
surface may be scratched. to do otherwise is false economy.
4 Dirt and other foreign matter gets into the EXCESSIVE WEAR TAPERED JOURNAL
engine in a variety of ways. It may be left in 15 Engine overhaul -
the engine during assembly, or it may pass reassembly sequence
through filters or the crankcase ventilation
system. It may get into the oil, and from there
into the bearings. Metal chips from machining OVERLAY WIPED OUT RADIUS RIDE

operations and normal engine wear are 1 Before reassembly begins, ensure that all
often present. Abrasives are sometimes left new parts have been obtained, and that all
14.2 Typical bearing failures
in engine components after reconditioning, necessary tools are available. Read through
2D»14 Engine removal and overhaul procedures

ring first, and work up. Note that a two- or
three-section oil control ring may be fitted;
where a two-section ring is fitted, first insert
the wire expander, then fit the ring. Ensure
that the rings are fitted the correct way up -
the top surface of the rings is normally marked
TOP (see illustration). Offset the piston ring
gaps by 120° from each other. Always follow
any instructions supplied with the new piston
ring sets - different manufacturers may specify
different procedures. Do not mix up the top
and second compression rings, as they have
different cross-sections.
16.4 Check the piston ring end gaps using 16.9 Piston ring TOP marking
a feeler blade 17 Crankshaft
3 Insert the top ring into the first cylinder, and ends very carefully with a fine file. Mount the (diesel engines) -
push it down the bore using the top of the file in a vice equipped with soft jaws, slip the refitting
piston. This will ensure that the ring remains ring over thl file with the ends contacting the
square with the cylinder walls. Position the file face, anp slowly move the ring to remove
ring approximately 15.0 mm the bottom of the material from the ends. Take care, as piston Selection of new bearing shells
cylinder bore, at the lower limit of ring travel. rings are snarp, and are easily broken.
1 Have the crankshaft inspected and
Note that the top and second compression 6 With new piston rings, it is unlikely that the
measured by a Seat dealer or automotive
rings are different. end gap w II be too large. If the gaps are too
engineering workshop. They will be able to
4 Measure the end gap using feeler blades, large, cheajk that you have the correct rings
carry out any regrinding/repairs, and supply
for your enjgine and for the particular cylinder
and compare the measurements with the suitable main and big-end bearing shells.
bore size.
figures given in the Specifications (see
illustration).
7 Repeat (the checking procedure for each Crankshaft refitting
ring in the first cylinder, and then for the rings 2 Where applicable, refit the speed/position
5 If the gap is too small (unlikely if genuine in the remaining cylinders. Remember to keep
Seat parts are used), it must be enlarged, or sensor wheel to the crankshaft, and tighten
rings, pistons and cylinders matched up. the securing bolts to the specified torque.
the ring ends may contact each other during 8 Once me ring end gaps have been checked Make sure that the sensor wheel is correctly
engine operation, causing serious damage. and if necessary corrected, the rings can be orientated as noted before removal.
Ideally, new piston rings providing the correct fitted to tnp pistons. 3 Liberally coat the bearing shells in the
end gap should be fitted. As a last resort, the 9 Fit the piston rings using the same technique crankcase with clean engine oil of the
end gap can be increased by filing the ring as for removal. Fit the bottom (oil control) appropriate grade (see illustrations). Make
sure that the bearing shells are correctly
seated in their locations.
4 Lower the crankshaft into position so that
No 1 cylinder crankpin is at BDC, ready for
fitting No 1 piston. Ensure that the crankshaft
endfloat control thrustwasher halves, either
side of the No 3 main bearing location, remain
in position. Where applicable, take care not
to damage the crankshaft speed/position
sensor wheel as the crankshaft is lowered into
position.
5 Lubricate the lower bearing shells in the
17.3a Bearing shell correctly refitted main bearing caps with clean engine oil.
A Recess in cylinder block 17.3b Lubricate the upper bearing shells Make sure that the crankshaft endfloat control
B Lug on bearing shell thrustwasher halves are correctly seated either
C Oil hole side of No 3 bearing cap (see illustrations).
6 Fit the main bearing cap(s) in the correct
location and orientation - where applicable,
No 1 bearing cap must be at the timing end of
the engine and the bearing shell tab locating
recesses in the crankcase and bearing
caps must be adjacent to each other (see
illustration). Insert new bearing cap bolts,
and hand-tighten them only.
7 Working from the centre bearing cap
outwards, tighten the bearing cap bolts to
their specified torque. Tighten all bolts to the
Stage 1 torque, then go round again, and
tighten all bolts through the Stage 2 angle
(see illustrations).
I7.5a Lubricate the lower bearing 17.5b . . . and make sure that the 8 Check that the crankshaft rotates freely by
shells.. thlustwashers are correctly seated turning it by hand.
Engine removal and overhaul procedures 2D«15

V, ^

17.6 Fit No 1 main bearing cap 17.7a Tighten the main bearing cap bolts 17.7b . . . then through the specified angle
to the specified torque . . .
9 Check the crankshaft endfloat as described 7 Lubricate the cylinder bores, the pistons, 10 Ensure that the orientation of the piston in
at the beginning of Section 13. If the thrust piston rings and upper bearing shells with its cylinder is correct - refer to Section 12 for
surfaces of the crankshaft have been checked clean engine oil (see illustrations). Lay out details. On diesel engines, the piston crowns
and new thrustwashers have been fitted, then each piston/connecting rod assembly in order are specially shaped to improve the engine's
the endfloat should be within specification. on a clean work surface. Where the bearing combustion characteristics. Because of this,
10 Refit the pistons and connecting rods or caps are secured with nuts, pad the threaded pistons 1 and 2 are different to pistons 3 and
reconnect them to the crankshaft as described ends of the bolts with insulating tape to 4. When correctly fitted, the larger intake
in Section 18. prevent them scratching the crankpins and valve chambers on pistons 1 and 2 must
11 Refit the crankshaft oil seal housings, bores when the pistons are refitted. face the flywheel end of the engine, and the
flywheel, oil pump and pick-up pipe, sump 8 Start with piston/connecting rod assembly larger intake valve chambers on the remaining
and oil baffle plate, crankshaft sprocket and No 1. Make sure that the piston rings are still pistons must face the timing belt end of the
timing belt as described in Chapter 2C. spaced as described in Section 16, then clamp engine. Note that on the 3-cylinder engine, the
them in position with a piston ring compressor pattern follows that of cylinders 1, 2 and 3.
18 Piston/connecting rod |k tool. New pistons have number markings on their
assemblies - refitting and g^ 9 Insert the piston/connecting rod assembly crowns to indicate their type - 1/2 denotes
big-end bearing clearance check jjk into the top of No 1 cylinder. Lower the big-end piston 1 or 2, 3/4 indicates piston 3 or 4 (see
in first, guiding it to protect the cylinder bores. illustration).
Note: A piston ring compressor tool will be Where oil jets are located at the bottoms of 11 Using a block of wood or hammer handle
required for this operation. the bores, take particular care not to damage against the piston crown, tap the assembly
them when guiding the connecting rods onto into the cylinder until the piston crown is flush
Selection of bearing shells the crankpins. with the top of the cylinder (see illustration).
1 There are a number of sizes of big-end
bearing shell produced by Seat; a standard
size for use with the standard crankshaft, and
oversizes for use once the crankshaft journals
have been reground.
2 Have the crankshaft inspected and
measured by a Seat dealer or automotive
engineering workshop. They will be able to
carry out any regrinding/repairs, and supply
suitable big-end bearing shells.
Piston/connecting rods refitting
3 Note that the following procedure assumes
that the crankshaft main bearing caps are in 18.7a Lubricate the pistons .. 18.7b . . . and big-end upper bearing shells
place. with clean engine oil
4 Where applicable, refit the piston cooling oil
spray jets to the bottom of the cylinder block,
and tighten the securing bolts to the specified
torque.
5 On engines where the big-end bearing
caps are secured by nuts, renew the bolts/
studs in the connecting rods. Tap the old
bolts/studs out of the connecting rods using a
soft-faced mallet, and tap the new bolts/studs
into position. On engines where the caps are
secured by bolts, renew the bolts.
6 Ensure that the bearing shells are correctly
fitted. If new shells are being fitted, ensure
that all traces of the protective grease are
cleaned off using paraffin. Wipe dry the shells 18.10 Piston orientation and coding on diesel 18.11 Use a hammer handle to tap the
and connecting rods with a lint-free cloth. engines - for 3-cylinder engine use 1 to 3 piston into its bore
2D»16 Engine removal and overhaul procec

5 Turn the engine using the starter motor until
the oil pressure warning light goes out. If the
light fails to extinguish after several seconds
of cranking, check the engine oil level and
oil filter security. Assuming these are correct,
check the security of the oil pressure switch
wiring - do not progress any further until you
are satisfied that oil is being pumped around
the engine at sufficient pressure.
6 Refit the spark plugs, and refit the fuses.
Diesel models
7 Disconnect the injector solenoids by
18.15a Tighten the big-end bearing cap . then through the specified disconnecting the connector at the end of the
bolts/nuts to the specified torque . . . angle cylinder head. Note: As a result of the wiring
12 Ensure that the bearing shell is still thickness |pf the new cylinder head gasket being disconnected, faults may be stored in
correctly installed in the connecting rod, required. lis procedure is described as part the ECM memory. These must be erased after
then liberally lubricate the crankpin and both of the Cylir der head - removal, inspection and starting the engine.
bearing shells with clean engine oil. refitting pr cedure in Chapter 2C. 8 Turn the engine using the starter motor until
13 Taking care not to mark the cylinder bores, 19 Proceed as follows according to engine the oil pressure warning light goes out.
tap the piston/connecting rod assembly down type: 9 If the light fails to extinguish after several
the bore and onto the crankpin. On engines a) On the\ diesel engine, refit the seconds of cranking, check the engine oil
where the big-end caps are secured by nuts, balanc •r shaft assembly as described in level and oil filter security. Assuming these are
remove the insulating tape from the threaded Chaptt. r2C. correct, check the security of the oil pressure
ends of the connecting rod bolts. Oil the bolt b) On the 1.4 litre petrol engine and all diesel switch cabling - do not progress any further
threads, and on engines where the big-end engine ;, refit the oil pump pick-up pipe until you are satisfied that oil is being pumped
caps are secured by bolts, oil the undersides and oi, baffle, the sump and the cylinder around the engine at sufficient pressure.
of the bolt heads. head a ; described in Chapters 2B or 2C. 10 Reconnect the wiring as applicable.
14 Fit the big-end bearing cap, tightening All models
its new retaining nuts or bolts (as applicable) 19Engfie- 11 Start the engine, but be aware that as fuel
finger-tight at first. On diesel engines, the initiaj start-up after system components have been disturbed,
connecting rod and its bearing cap both overhaul and reassembly the cranking time may be a little longer than
have recesses machined into them on one usual.
side, close to their mating surfaces - these 12 While the engine is idling, check for fuel,
1 Refit the 'emainder of the engine components
recesses must both face the same way as water and oil leaks. Don't be alarmed if there
in the orde ' listed in Section 5 of this Chapter.
the arrow on the piston crown (ie, towards the are some odd smells and the occasional
Refit the e igine to the vehicle as described in
timing belt end of the engine) when correctly Section 4 plume of smoke as components heat up and
this Chapter. Double-check the
installed. Reassemble the two components to engine oil nd coolant levels, and make a final burn off oil deposits.
satisfy this requirement. check that everything has been reconnected. 13 Assuming all is well, keep the engine
15 Tighten the retaining bolts or nuts to the Make sure fthat there are no tools or rags left in idling until hot water is felt circulating through
specified torque and angle as given in the the engine|bompartment. the top hose.
Specifications (see illustrations). 2 Reconn ;ct the battery negative lead as 14 After a few minutes, stop the engine then
16 Refit the remaining piston/connecting rod described n Chapter 5A. recheck the oil and coolant levels, and top-up
assemblies in the same way. as necessary.
17 Rotate the crankshaft by hand. Check that Petrol t lodels 15 There is no need to retighten the cylinder
it turns freely; some stiffness is to be expected 3 Removi the spark plugs, referring to head bolts once the engine has been run
if new parts have been fitted, but there should Chapter 1> i for details. following reassembly.
be no binding or tight spots. A ~ri—
16 If new pistons, rings or crankshaft bearings
18 On diesel engines, if new pistons have it can be turned over using the starter motor, have been fitted, the engine must be treated
been fitted, or if a new short engine has been without starting - refer to Section 2 of Chap- as new, and run-in for the first 600 miles. Do
fitted, the projection of the piston crowns ter 2A or: not operate the engine at full-throttle, or allow
above the cylinder head mating face of the Caution: tjb prevent damage to the catalytic it to labour at low engine speeds in any gear.
cylinder block at TDC must be measured. converter, it is important to disable the fuel It is recommended that the engine oil and filter
This measurement is used to determine the system. are changed at the end of this period.
Chapter 3
Cooling, heating and ventilation systems
Contents Section number Section number
Antifreeze mixture See Chapter 1A or 1B General information and precautions 1
Auxiliary drivebelt checking and renewal See Chapter 1A or 1B Heating/air conditioning system - general information and
Coolant level check See Weekly checks precautions 8
Coolant pump - removal and refitting 7 Heating/air conditioning system components - removal and
Cooling system electrical switches and sensors - testing, removal refitting 9
and refitting 6 Radiator - removal, inspection and refitting 3
Cooling system hoses - disconnection and renewal 2 Thermostat - removal, testing and refitting 4
Electric cooling fan - testing, removal and refitting 5

Degrees of difficulty
Easy, suitable for Fairly easy, suitable Fairly difficult, Difficult, suitable Very difficult,
novice with little for beginner with suitable for competent Sjx for experienced DIY suitable for expert
experience some experience DIY mechanic 2c mechanic DIY or professional

Specifications
Cooling system pressure cap
Opening pressure 1.4 to 1.6 bar
Thermostat
Petrol engines
1.2 litre engines N/A
1.4 litre engines:
Begins to open 84°C
Fully open 98°C
Diesel engines
1.4 litre engines:
Begins to open 85°C
Fully open 105°C
1.9 litre engines N/A
Cooling fan
Fan speeds:
1 st speed cut-in 91 to 97°C
1st speed cut-out 91 to 84°C
2nd speed cut-in 99 to 105°C
2nd speed cut-out 98 to 91 °C
Coolant temperature sensor
Resistances:
At 30°C 1500 to 2000 ohms
At 80°C . . 275 to 375 ohms
3*2 Cooling, heating and ventilation systems

Torque wrench settings Nm Ibfft
5 4
Coolant pump:
1 2 litre petrol engines 24 18
1 4 litre petrol engines 20 15
Diesel engines .. 1 15 11
Coolant pump pulley (1 2 litre petrol engines) 22 16
Distribution housing (diesel engines) 10 7
Radiator • 5 4
Radiator cooling fan shroud bolts 10 7
Radiator cooling fan thermo-switch 35 26
Thermostat cover (diesel engines) 15 11
Thermostat/distribution housing:
1 2 litre petrol engines . .... 8 6
1 4 litre petrol engines 10 7
Timing belt guide pulley:
1 4 litre petrol engines . 50 37

As the coolant circulates through the radiator
1 General information it is cooled py the inrush of air when the car is Cooling system hoses -
and precautions in forward r]|otion. Airflow is supplemented by disconnection and renewal
the action of the electric cooling fan(s) when
necessary.! Upon leaving the radiator, the
The cooling system comprises a centrifugal coolant has! cooled and the cycle is repeated. Note: Refer to the warnings given in Section 1
pump, crossflow radiator, electric cooling fan, A thermostatic switch controls the electric of this Chapter before proceeding.
thermostat and a heater matrix, as well as the cooling faii(s) mounted on the rear of the 1 If the checks described in the relevant part
interconnecting hoses. The system functions radiator. Ail a preset coolant temperature, the of Chapter 1 reveal a faulty hose, it must be
as follows. Cold coolant from the radiator switch actuates the fan(s). renewed as follows.
passes through the bottom hose to the coolant Yarning: Do not attempt to remove 2 First drain the cooling system as described
pump where it is pumped around the cylinder ?e expansion tank filler cap or in Chapter 1A or 1B. If the coolant is not due
block and head passages. After cooling the Disturb any part of the cooling for renewal, it may be re-used if it is collected
cylinder bores, combustion surfaces and system vwiile the engine is hot, as there in a clean container.
valve seats, the coolant reaches the top of the is a high \risk of scalding. If the expansion 3 To disconnect a hose, release its retaining
engine and passes through the top hose to tank filler cap must be removed before clips, and then move them along the hose,
the radiator. The coolant also passes through the engine and radiator have fully cooled clear of the relevant inlet/outlet union. Carefully
the heater matrix where it heats incoming air (even though this is not recommended) work the hose free.
to the inside of the car. the pressure in the cooling system must 4 In order to disconnect the radiator inlet and
When the engine is cold the coolant first be Irelieved. Cover the cap with a outlet hoses, apply pressure to hold the hose
circulation is restricted to the cylinder block, thick layer of cloth, to avoid scalding, and on to the relevant union, pull out the spring
cylinder head, expansion tank, and heater by slowly unscrew the filler cap until a hissing clip and pull the hose from the union (see
a thermostat positioned in the radiator circuit. sound can be heard. When the hissing has illustration). Note that the radiator inlet and
On petrol engines the thermostat is located stopped! indicating that the pressure has outlet unions are fragile; do not use excessive
in the coolant distribution housing on the reduce I slowly unscrew the filler cap until force when attempting to remove the hoses.
left-hand end of the cylinder head, however, it can removed; if more hissing sounds If a hose proves to be difficult to remove, try
on diesel engines it is located in the coolant are hei wait until they have stopped to release it by rotating the hose ends before
return on the front of the cylinder block. before \nscrewing the cap completely. At attempting to free it.
When the coolant reaches a predetermined all f//nei keep well away from the filler cap
temperature, the wax-filled thermostat opens openinc
If all else fails, cut the hose
and the coolant passes through to the radiator. • Do n tt allow antifreeze to come into
with a sharp knife, then slit
contac with skin or the car's painted
it so that it can be peeled
surface . Rinse off spills immediately with
off in two pieces. Although
plenty \pf water. Never leave antifreeze
this may prove expensive if the hose is
lying ai ound in an open container or in a
otherwise undamaged, it is preferable
puddle in the driveway or on the garage
to buying a new radiator.
floor. Children and pets are attracted by
its SWG et smell. Antifreeze can be fatal if
ingestod. 5 When fitting a hose, first slide the clips onto
If th& engine is hot, the electric cooling the hose, then work the hose into position.
fan may start rotating even if the engine is If clamp type clips were originally fitted, it is
not rurining, so be careful to keep hands, a good idea to use screw-type clips when
hair and loose clothing well clear when refitting the hose. If the hose is stiff, use a little
working in the engine compartment. soapy water as a lubricant, or soften the hose
Refer to Section 8 for additional by soaking it in hot water.
2.4 Pull out the retaining clip precautions to be observed when working 6 Work the hose into position, checking that
on models with air conditioning. it is correctly routed, then slide each clip
Cooling, heating and ventilation systems 3«3

along the hose until it passes over the flared
end of the relevant union, before securing it in
position with the retaining clip.
7 Prior to refitting a radiator inlet or outlet
hose, renew the connection O-ring regardless
of condition. The connections are a push-fit
over the radiator unions.
8 Refill the cooling system as described in
Chapter 1A or 1B.
9 Check thoroughly for leaks as soon as
possible after disturbing any part of the
cooling system.

3 Radiator - |k 3.3 Disconnect the thermo-switch wiring 3.4 Disconnect the top hose from the
removal, inspection g^ radiator
and refitting ^

Removal
1 Disconnect the battery negative lead as
described in Chapter 5A.
2 Drain the cooling system as described in
the relevant part of Chapter 1.
3 Disconnect the wiring from the cooling
fan thermo-switch and the cooling fan (see
illustration).
4 Disconnect the upper and lower hoses from
the left-hand side of the radiator. To do so, pull
out the spring clip, then ease the hoses from 3.16a Undo the bolts (arrowed) each side 3.16b . . . and the bolts (arrowed) securing
the stubs (see illustration). retaining the lock carrier panel... the radiator to the lock carrier panel
Models without air conditioning and the refrigerant pipe clips from the radiator, to weld or solder a leaking radiator, as damage
then lower the radiator to the floor and tie the may result.
5 Remove the front bumper and crossmember
condenser to the inner body with cable ties 23 If the radiator is to be sent for repair or
with reference to Chapter 11.
(see illustration). renewed, remove the cooling fan and thermo-
6 On diesel models, remove the intercooler as
18 Unbolt the cooling fan and shroud from switch.
described in Chapter 4C, and disconnect the
intake pipe from the lock carrier panel. the radiator. Refitting
7 Undo the 2 bolts and detach the bonnet Inspection 24 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but
lock and cable from the lock carrier. check the condition of the mounting rubbers
8 Remove both headlights as described in 19 If the radiator has been removed due
to suspected blockage, reverse flush it as and renew if necessary (see illustration). On
Chapter 12. completion, refill the cooling system using the
9 Unbolt the lock carrier and radiator and described in the relevant part of Chapter 1.
20 Clean dirt and debris from the radiator correct type of antifreeze as described in the
remove from the front of the car. relevant part of Chapter 1.
10 Unbolt the radiator from the lock carrier, fins, using an airline (in which case, wear eye
then unbolt the cooling fan and shroud from protection) or a soft brush. Be careful, as the
fins are sharp and easily damaged. 4 Thermostat -
the radiator.
Models with air conditioning
21 If necessary, a radiator specialist can removal, testing and refitting
I
11 Disconnect the wiring from the air
perform a 'flow test' on the radiator, to
establish whether an internal blockage
I
conditioning compressor, then unbolt it and exists. 1 As the thermostat ages, it may become
tie it to the lock carrier. Do not disconnect the 22 A leaking radiator must be referred to a slower to react to changes in water
refrigerant lines. specialist for permanent repair. Do not attempt temperature ('lazy'). Ultimately, the unit may
12 Remove the front bumper and cross-
member with reference to Chapter 11.
13 On diesel models, remove the intercooler
as described in Chapter 4C, and disconnect
the air intake pipe from the lock carrier panel.
14 Undo the 2 bolts and detach the bonnet
lock and cable from the lock carrier.
15 Remove both headlights as described in
Chapter 12.
16 Unbolt the lock carrier from the inner
wing each side, and from the radiator (see
illustrations). Swivel the lock carrier panel out
from the front of the car, leaving the condenser
and radiator in place. Support the assembly
on axle stands or blocks of wood. 3.17 Undo the bolts (arrowed) each side 3.24 Check the radiator mounting rubbers
17 Unbolt the condenser from the radiator, securing the condenser to the radiator each side
3*4 Cooling, heating and ventilation syste -,

4.15 Remove the coolant distribution 19 Disconnect the hose 4.20 Remove and discard the seal
housing from the cylinder block
stick in the open or closed position, and radiator) d the thermostat is open. Consult 14 Loosen the clips and disconnect the
this causes problems. A thermostat which is the Fault Diagnosis section at the end of this hoses from the distribution housing.
stuck open will result in a very slow warm-up; manual to assist in tracing possible cooling 15 Unscrew the mounting bolts and withdraw
a thermostat which is stuck shut will lead to system f Its, but a lack of heater output the housing from the distribution housing and
rapid overheating. would no definitely suggest an airlock or a intermediate coolant pipe on the rear of the
2 Before assuming the thermostat is to blame blockage. engine (see illustration). Recover the O-ring.
for a cooling system problem, check the 7 To gai a rough idea of whether the 16 As the thermostat is integral with the
coolant level. If the system is draining due to a thermost t is working properly when the distribution housing, it is not possible to test
leak, or has not been properly filled, there may engine is arming up, without dismantling the it by heating in water in the conventional
be an airlock in the system (refer to the coolant system, p ceed as follows, way. Symptoms of a faulty thermostat will be
renewal procedure in Chapter 1A or 1B). 8 With t h e engine completely cold, start overheating if it sticks in the closed position, or
3 If the engine seems to be taking a long the engir and let it idle, while checking slow warm-up if it sticks in the open position.
time to warm up (based on heater output), the temperature of the radiator top hose. 1.4 litre petrol engines
the thermostat could be stuck open. Don't Periodicafly check the temperature indicated 17 The thermostat is located beneath a
necessarily believe the temperature gauge on the oolant temperature gauge - if cover in a housing on the left-hand end of the
reading - some gauges never seem to register overheatirilg is indicated, switch the engine off cylinder head.
very high in normal driving. immediate ly 18 Drain the cooling system as described in
4 A lengthy warm-up period might suggest 9 The top hose should feel cold for some time Chapter 1A.
that the thermostat is missing - it may have as the en ine warms up, and should then get 19 Release the retaining clip and disconnect
been removed or inadvertently omitted by warm quii j quickly as the thermostat opens, the coolant radiator bottom hose from the
a previous owner or mechanic. Don't drive 10 The c aove is not a precise or definitive thermostat cover (see illustration).
the car without a thermostat - the engine test of thgrnostat operation, but if the system 20 Unscrew the retaining bolts and remove the
management system's ECM will then stay in does not jerform as described, remove and thermostat housing cover and sealing ring from
warm-up mode for longer than necessary, test the tr srmostat as described below. the engine. Discard the sealing ring; a new one
causing emissions and fuel economy to must be used on refitting (see illustration).
suffer. Removal 21 Remove the thermostat from the housing
5 If the engine runs hot, use your hand to (see illustration). Note that the thermostat
check the temperature of the radiator top 1.2 litre betrol engines
is only available together with its spring
hose. If the hose isn't hot, but the engine 11 The tf ermostat is integral with the coolant housing.
clearly is, the thermostat is probably stuck distributk n housing bolted to the left-hand
closed, preventing the coolant inside the end of th 5 cylinder block. If it is faulty, the Diesel engines
engine from escaping to the radiator - renew complete lousing must be renewed. 22 The thermostat is located beneath a cover
the thermostat. Again, this problem may also 12 Drain the cooling system as described in on the front of the engine, in the coolant return
be due to an airlock (refer to the coolant Chapter 1 \. from the bottom of the radiator.
renewal procedure in Chapter 1A or 1 B). 13 To pr wide working room, remove the 23 Drain the cooling system as described in
6 If the radiator top hose is hot, it means that battery, a • cleaner and ducting as described Chapter 1A.
the coolant is flowing (at least as far as the in Chapte • 5A and 4A. 24 Release the retaining clip and disconnect
the coolant hose from the thermostat cover.
25 Unscrew the retaining bolts and remove
the thermostat housing cover and sealing ring
from the engine (see illustrations). Discard
the sealing ring; a new one must be used on
refitting.
26 To remove the thermostat from the cover,
twist the thermostat 90° anti-clockwise, and
pull it from the cover.
Testing
Note: Frankly, if there is any question about
the operation of the thermostat, it's best
to renew it - they are not expensive items.
4.21 Remove the thermostat 5a Thermostat cover bolts Testing involves heating in, or over, an open
(arrowed).. . pan of boiling water, which carries with it the
Cooling, heating and ventilation systems 3*5

H31966

4.25b . . . and thermostat - diesel engines 5.9 Remove the cooling fan and shroud from the radiator
risk of scalding. A thermostat which has seen links, wiring, fan switch, or fan motor, then it is
more than five years' service may well be past 5 Electric cooling fan - likely that the cooling fan control unit is faulty.
its best already. testing, removal and refitting Testing of the unit should be entrusted to a
27 If the thermostat remains in the open Seat dealer or specialist; if the unit is faulty it
position at room temperature, it is faulty, and must be renewed.
must be renewed as a matter of course.
28 Check to see if there's an open temperature Testing Removal
marking stamped on the thermostat. 1 One or two cooling fans may be fitted, 6 Disconnect the battery negative lead as
29 Using a thermometer and container of depending on model. The cooling fan is described in Chapter 5A.
water, heat the water until the temperature supplied with current through the ignition 7 Remove the engine top cover.
corresponds with the temperature marking switch, cooling fan control unit (where 8 Disconnect the wiring plug from the cooling
stamped on the thermostat. If no marking is applicable), the relay(s) and fuses/fusible link fan motor, and slide the connector from the
found, start the test with the water hot, and (see Chapter 12). The circuit is completed by retaining bracket.
heat slowly until it boils. the cooling fan thermostatic switch, which is 9 Unscrew the bolts and remove the cooling
30 Suspend the (closed) thermostat on a mounted in the left-hand end of the radiator. fan and shroud from the radiator (see
length of string in the water, and check that The cooling fan has two speed settings; the illustration). Take care not to damage the
maximum opening occurs within two minutes, thermostatic switch actually contains two radiator fins.
or before the water boils. switches, one for the stage 1 fan speed setting 10 Undo the three Torx bolts securing the fan
31 Remove the thermostat and allow it to and another for the stage 2 fan speed setting. to the radiator shroud, and withdraw the fan.
cool down; check that it closes fully. Testing of the cooling fan circuit is as follows, Refitting
32 If the thermostat does not open and close noting that the following check should be
as described, or if it sticks in either position, it 11 Refitting is a reversal of removal.
carried out on both the stage 1 speed circuit
must be renewed. and speed 2 circuit (see wiring diagrams at
the end of Chapter 12). 6 Cooling system electrical |k
Refitting 2 If a fan does not appear to work, first check switches and sensors -
Petrol engines the fuses/fusible links. If they are good, run testing, removal and refitting ^
33 Refitting is a reversal of removal, noting the engine until normal operating temperature
the following points: is reached, then allow it to idle. If the fan does
not cut in within a few minutes, switch off the Cooling fan thermostatic switch
a) On 1.4 litre engines, use a new sealing ring.
b) Refill the cooling system with the correct ignition and disconnect the wiring plug from Testing
type and quantity of coolant as described the cooling fan switch. Bridge the relevant two
contacts in the wiring plug using a length of 1 Testing of the switch is described in Sec-
in Chapter 1A. tion 5, as part of the electric cooling fan test
spare wire, and switch on the ignition. If the
Diesel engines fan now operates, the switch is probably faulty procedure.
34 Refitting is a reversal of removal, bearing and should be renewed. Removal
in mind the following points: 3 If the switch appears to work, the motor can 2 The thermo-switch is located in the left-hand
a) Refit the thermostat using a new O-ring. be checked by disconnecting the motor wiring side of the radiator. The engine and radiator
b) Insert the thermostat into the cover and connector and connecting a 12-volt supply must be cold before removing the switch.
twist 90° clockwise. directly to the motor terminals. If the motor is 3 Disconnect the battery negative lead as
c) The thermostat should be fitted with the faulty, it must be renewed, as no spares are described in Chapter 5A. Where necessary,
brace almost vertical. available. remove the engine top cover.
d) Ensure that any brackets are in place 4 If the fan still fails to operate, check the 4 Either drain the radiator to below the level
on the thermostat cover bolts as noted cooling fan circuit wiring (Chapter 12). Check of the switch (as described in Chapter 1A
before removal. each wire for continuity and ensure that all or 1B), or have ready a suitable plug which
e) Refill the cooling system with the correct connections are clean and free of corrosion. can be used to plug the switch aperture in
type and quantity of coolant as described 5 On models with a cooling fan control unit, the radiator whilst the switch is removed. If a
in Chapter IB. if no fault can be found with the fuses/fusible plug is used, take great care not to damage
3*6 Cooling, heating and ventilation system

3 Remove the auxiliary drivebelt as described
in Chapter 1A.
4 Fully unscrew the bolts and remove the pulley
from the coolant pump (see illustration).
5 Unscrew the coolant pump retaining bolts,
and withdraw the pump and gasket (if fitted)
from the engine block. Identify the front
retaining bolt, as it has sealant on its threads.
If faulty, the pump must be renewed (see
illustration).
Refitting
6 Refitting is a reversal of removal, bearing in
6.6 Unscrew the thermo-switch Coolar temperature sensor (arrowed) mind the following points:
- diesel engine a) Refit the pump using a new gasket (refer
to note above).
the radiator, and do not use anything which sensor can Iso be checked by a Seat dealer
b) Apply suitable sealant to the threads of
will allow foreign matter to enter the radiator. or specialis using diagnostic equipment. If
the front retaining bolt.
5 Disconnect the wiring plug from the thermo- the sensor i faulty, it must be renewed.
c) Refill the cooling system as described in
switch. Removal i nd refitting Chapter 1A.
6 Carefully unscrew the thermo-switch from
11 Removd the engine top cover.
the radiator (see illustration).
12 Disconnect the wiring plug from the
1.4 litre petrol engines
Refitting sensor, IOCE ed on the thermostat housing at Removal
7 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but apply a the left-hanc end of the cylinder head. Partially 7 Remove the main timing belt as described
smear of suitable grease to the threads of the drain the cc Dling system to below the level of in Chapter 2B. If the belt is to be re-used, note
switch and tighten it to the specified torque. the sensor (< s described in Chapter 1A or 1B). the direction of rotation.
On completion, refill the cooling system with 13 Careful! withdraw the retaining clip and 8 Remove the timing belt idler roller, and rear
the correct type and quantity of coolant as pull the sen or from the housing. Recover the timing belt cover.
described in Chapter 1A or 1B, or top-up as O-ring. 9 Unscrew the coolant pump retaining bolts,
described in Weekly checks. 14 Refittinc is a reversal of removal, bearing and withdraw the pump from the engine block.
8 Start the engine and run it until it reaches in mind the ollowing points: Note the gasket is integral with the pump and
normal operating temperature, then continue a) Refit the sensor with a new O-ring. must not be removed. If faulty, the pump must
to run the engine and check that the cooling b) Refill th> cooling system as described in be renewed (see illustration).
fan cuts in and functions correctly. Chapter 1A or 1B, or top-up as described
in ' y checks'.
Refitting
Coolant temperature sensor 10 Refitting is a reversal of removal, bearing
Testing 7 Coolant pump - in mind the following points:
remo al and refitting a) Clean the surface of the engine block
9 The coolant temperature sensor is located
before refitting the pump.
on the coolant distribution housing on the
b) Refill the cooling system as described in
left-hand end of the cylinder head. On petrol
Chapter 1A.
engines it is on the top or front of the housing,
Note: New coolant pumps may be of a
and on diesel engines it is on the rear of the
modified de ign, which do not require gaskets. Diesel engines
housing (see illustration).
Use a suitab\ sealer Removal
10 The sensor contains a thermistor,
which consists of an electronic component 1.2 litre petrol engines 11 Drain the cooling system as described in
whose electrical resistance decreases at a Chapter 1 B.
predetermined rate as its temperature rises. Removal 12 Remove the timing belt as described in
When the coolant is cold, the sensor resistance 1 Drain the cooling system as described in Chapter 2C, noting the following points:
is high, current flow through the gauge is Chapter 1A. a) The lower part of the timing belt guard
reduced, and the gauge needle points towards 2 Before removing the auxiliary drivebelt, need not be removed.
the 'cold' end of the scale. Typical resistances loosen the coolant pump pulley mounting b) The timing belt should be left in position
are given in the Specifications, however, the bolts. on the crankshaft sprocket.

7.4 Undo the bolts and remove the coolant 7.5 R< move the coolant pump 7.9 Withdraw the coolant pump
pump pulley - 1.2 litre engine .2 litre petrol engine 1.4 litre petrol engine
Cooling, heating and ventilation systems 3«7

7.13a Coolant pump - 4-cylinder diesel engine 7.13b Coolant pump - 3-cylinder diesel engine

c) Cover the timing belt with a cloth to this heating element only operates when the 11 The operation of the system is controlled
protect it from coolant. coolant temperature is below 80°C. electronically by coolant temperature switches,
13 Unscrew the coolant pump retaining bolts, 5 The airflow, which can be boosted by the and pressure switches which are screwed into
and remove the pump and O-ring seal from blower, then flows through the various ducts, the compressor high-pressure line. Both the
the engine block. If the pump is faulty, it must according to the settings of the controls. Stale Climatic and Climatronic systems receive
be renewed (see illustrations). air is expelled through ducts below the rear information on temperatures of the air outside,
window. in the facia vents, and in the footwells, from
Refitting various sensors. Electric motors are fitted to
6 If necessary, the outside air supply can be
14 Refitting is a reversal of removal, bearing closed off, allowing the air inside the car to the main heater assembly to operate the air
in mind the following points: be recirculated. This can be useful to prevent flaps which are cable-operated on non-air
a) Fit the coolant pump with a new O-ring, unpleasant odours entering from outside the conditioned models, enabling the system
lubricated with a little coolant. car, but should only be used briefly as the to maintain the selected temperature. Any
b) Install the pump with the cast lug facing recirculated air quality inside the car will soon problems with the system should be referred
down. deteriorate. to a Seat dealer or an air conditioning
c) Refill the cooling system as described in specialist (see illustration).
Chapter 1B. Air conditioning system 12 When an air conditioning system is
7 Air conditioning is fitted as standard to all fitted, it is necessary to observe special
8 Heating/air conditioning but the most basic-specification UK models. precautions whenever dealing with any part
system - general It enables the temperature of incoming air to of the system, its associated components and
information and precautions be lowered, and dehumidifies the air, which any items which require disconnection of the
makes for rapid demisting and increased system. If for any reason the system must be
comfort. One of two systems may be fitted - disconnected, entrust this task to your Seat
dealer or an air conditioning specialist.
Heating system the semi-automatic Climatic, or the optional
Warning: The refrigeration circuit
1 The heating/ventilation system consists fully-automatic Climatronic, which has an LCD
r|\ a refrigerant, and it is
of a four-speed blower motor (housed in the display.
therefore dangerous to disconnect
passenger compartment), face-level vents in 8 The cooling side of the system works in the
any part of the system without specialised
the centre and at each end of the facia, and same way as a domestic refrigerator. Refrigerant
knowledge and equipment. The refrigerant
air ducts to the front and rear footwells. gas is drawn into a belt-driven compressor and is potentially dangerous and should only
2 The control unit is located in the facia, and passes into a condenser mounted in front of be handled by qualified persons. If it
the controls operate flap valves to deflect and the radiator, where it loses heat and becomes is splashed onto the skin it can cause
mix the air flowing through the various parts of liquid. The liquid passes through an expansion
the heating/ventilation system. The flap valves valve to an evaporator, where it changes
are contained in the air distribution housing from liquid under high pressure to gas under
which acts as a central distribution unit, low pressure. This change is accompanied
passing air to the various ducts and vents. by a drop in temperature, which cools the
3 Cold air enters the system through the evaporator. The refrigerant returns to the
grille at the rear of the engine compartment. compressor and the cycle begins again.
A pollen filter is fitted in the heater assembly 9 Air blown through the evaporator passes to
to filter out dust, soot, pollen and spores from the air distribution unit, where it is mixed with
the air entering the car. hot air blown through the heater matrix (and
4 If warm air is required, the cold air is passed heating element, where applicable) to achieve
over the heater matrix, which is effectively a the desired temperature in the passenger
small radiator, with engine coolant flowing compartment.
through it. Diesel models are fitted with an 10 The heating side of the system works
in the same way as on models without air 8.11 Refrigerant circuit service ports
additional electric heating element below
conditioning. (arrowed)
the matrix, to ensure quick heater output -
3*8 Cooling, heating and ventilation systems

9.2 Pull out the storage compartment 9.3a Undo (the bolt (arrowed) in the roof of 9.3b . . . and the 2 (arrowed) each side
below the radio/audio unit the aperture ...
Refitting
7 Refitting is a reversal of removal. Ensure
that, where applicable, the control cables are
refitted correctly (see illustration).
Heater unit
Removal
8 Disconnect the battery negative lead as
described in Chapter 5A.
9 On models with air conditioning, have the
refrigerant evacuated from the system by a
Seat dealer or air conditioning specialist.
9.4 Pull the trim rearwards 9.5 Pui! (the control panel surround trim 10 Unscrew the expansion tank cap (engine
rearwards cold) to release any pressure present in the
frostbite. It is not itself poisonous, but in Chapter 1C. Where a CD changer or satellite cooling system, then securely refit the cap.
the presence of a naked flame (including navigation unit is fitted in addition, or 11 Remove the engine cover. Clamp both
a cigarette) it forms a poisonous gas. instead or) the radio unit, this should also be heater hoses as close to the bulkhead as
Uncontrolled discharging of the refrigerant removed. possible to minimise coolant loss. Alternatively,
is dangerous and potentially damaging 2 Where (applicable, pull out the storage drain the cooling system as described in the
to the environment, and is illegal in most compartment below the radio unit location relevant part of Chapter 1A or 1B. To ensure
countries. (see illustration). correct refitting, mark the hoses for position,
• Do not operate the air conditioning 3 Undo me 2 bolts each side in the aperture as they differ according to model. On diesel
system if it is known to be short of above tha control panel, and the 1 bolt at the models, to improve access to the hoses,
refrigerant, as this may damage the top of the aperture (see illustrations). release the clamps, unto the bolts, and remove
compressor. 4 Pull tHe trim under the control panel the turbocharger intake ducting from the rear of
rearwards to remove it (see illustration). the engine.
9 Heating/air conditioning 5 Carefu ly prise the control panel surround 12 Release the clips and disconnect both
system components - ^S trim from place. Disconnect the switch hoses from the heater matrix outlets (see
removal and refitting Sv wiring plugs as the trim is removed (see illustration). To prevent spillage of coolant
illustration). when the heater is removed, use low air
6 Disconnect the wiring plugs and cable(s) pressure to blow out the remaining coolant,
Heater control panel from th« control panel, then release the then plug the outlets.
2 clips each side and manoeuvre the 13 On models with air conditioning, unbolt
Removal panel rearwards from the facia (see illus- the refrigerant lines from the evaporator
1 Remove the audio unit as described in trations expansion valve on the bulkhead in the

9.6a Depress the clip (arrowed) to 9.6m Press the clips (arrowed) to the 9.7 The end of the control cable locates
disconnect the cables centre and pull the panel from place over a 'master spline' (arrowed)
Cooling, heating and ventilation systems 3*9

IT

9.12 Disconnect the rubber heater hoses 9.13 Undo the bolts (arrowed) and detach 9.17 Heater matrix pipes adapter retaining
(arrowed) from the metal matrix outlet the refrigerant pipes bolt locations (arrowed) - shown removed
pipes for clarity
engine compartment, and recover the O-ring Auxiliary heating element 29 Depress the catches and remove the
seals (see illustration). Plug the openings to blower motor and fan wheel from the housing.
prevent contamination. Removal
Refitting
14 Remove the centre console, facia 23 Remove the heater matrix as described
assembly and crossmember as described in previously in this Section. 30 Refitting is a reversal of removal.
Chapter 11. 24 Lift out the heating element (where fitted), Blower motor series resistor
15 Where fitted, slide the convenience and disconnect its wiring.
control unit upwards from the heater assembly Refitting Removal
and place to one side, then undo the bolts 31 Remove the facia as described in Chap-
securing the right-hand support bracket to the 25 Refitting is a reversal of removal.
ter 11.
heater assembly. The front bolts are easier to Heater blower motor 32 The resistor is located adjacent to the
access as the assembly is withdrawn. blower motor housing, on top of the heater
16 Where fitted, disconnect the wiring and Removal
assembly. Disconnect the wiring plug on top.
earth cable for the auxiliary heating. Cut free 26 Remove the facia and crossmember as 33 Turn the resistor anti-clockwise (see
any cable-ties securing wiring to the heater described in Chapter 11.
illustration). Remove the resistor through the
assembly. 27 Disconnect the blower motor wiring plug. top of the housing.
17 Unbolt and remove the heater matrix 28 Undo the bolts and withdraw the
pipes adapter from the bulkhead in the motor assembly from the housing (see Refitting
engine compartment. The retaining bolt is illustration). 34 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but
located between the two pipes at the engine
compartment bulkhead (see illustration).
18 Place cloth rags in the passenger
footwell, then carefully withdraw the heater/air
conditioning assembly and remove from the
car. Be prepared for some coolant spillage.
Refitting
19 Refitting is reversal of removal, noting the
following points:
a) Check the condition of the foam gasket
which fits between the heater assembly
and the bulkhead, and renew if necessary
(see illustration).
b) Make sure that all wiring is correctly
reconnected and routed. 9.19 Renew the foam gasket if necessary 9.21 a Release the spring clips and lift
c) Make sure that the air ducts are securely away the matrix and cover . . .
clipped into position.
d) On completion, check the coolant level
and top-up if necessary as described in
'Weekly checks'.
Heater matrix
Removal
20 Remove the heater unit as described
earlier in this Section.
21 With the assembly on the bench, use a
screwdriver to prise off the spring clips, then
remove the heater matrix and cover from the
bottom of the unit (see illustrations).
Refitting 9.21 b . . . then lift the matrix from the 9.28 Heater blower motor retaining bolts
22 Refitting is a reversal of removal. cover (arrowed)
3»10 Cooling, heating and ventilation syste ns

46 Undo the bolts, release the spring clips and
remove the flap housing (see illustration).
47 In order to gain access to the evaporator,
the housing must now be split into two halves.
This involves removing the various spring
clips, undoing the bolts around the expansion
valve, and lifting the lower half from the upper
half (see illustrations).
48 Lift the evaporator from the housing (see
illustration).
Refitting
49 Refitting is a reversal of removal.
9.33 Rotate the heater blower motor 9.39 Air nditioning compressor bolts
resistor anti-clockwise (arrowed) Condenser
check the operation of the blower motor in all Refitting Removal
4 speeds before refitting the glovebox. 40 Refittir is a reversal of removal, 50 Have the refrigerant evacuated from the
Reconnect le refrigerant pipes using new system by a Seat dealer or air conditioning
Air conditioning compressor
O-ring seal specialist.
Warning: Do not attempt to open 51 Remove the front bumper and cross-
!\e refrigerant circuit. Refer to the member as described in Chapter 11.
precautions given in Section 8. Evapora or
52 On diesel models, unclip the intercooler
Removal Removal ducting.
35 Have the refrigerant evacuated from the 41 Have tr refrigerant evacuated from the 53 Undo the bolts securing the radiator to the
system by a Seat dealer or air conditioning system by Seat dealer or air conditioning lock carrier panel (see illustration 3.16b).
specialist. specialist. 54 Undo the bolts securing the lock carrier
36 Remove the auxiliary drivebelt as 42 Remove he heater assembly as previously panel, and swivel it to one side, leaving the
described in Chapter 1A or 1B. described. radiator and condenser in place.
37 Disconnect the compressor wiring plug. 43 Remov the pollen filter as described in 55 Undo the bolts securing the refrigerant
38 Undo the bolts and disconnect the Chapter 1A •1B. pipes to the condenser. Recover the O-ring
refrigerant pipes from the compressor. Discard 44 Remov the heater blower motor as seals - new seals must be fitted.
the O-ring seals - new ones must be fitted. described e lier in this Section, 56 Undo the bolts securing the condenser to
39 Undo the mounting bolts and lower the 45 Undo t e bolts and remove the heater the radiator, and manoeuvre it from position
compressor from place (see illustration). distributor h using (see illustrations). (see illustration 3.17).

9.45a Undo the bolts (arrowed) each 9.45b . . and remove the distributor 9.46 Undo the bolts (arrowed) and remove
side.. housing the flap housing

9.47a Undo the bolts each side of the 9.47b Lift he lower half of the housing 9.48 Lift the evaporator and expansion
expansion valve (arrowed) valve from the housing
Cooling, heating and ventilation systems 3*11

9.59a Remove the rubber cap ... 9.59b . .. and extract the circlip (arrowed) 9.64 Expansion valve retaining bolts
(arrowed)

Refitting 60 Pull the receiver/drier element from place. openings to prevent contamination/saturation.
57 Refitting is a reversal of removal, using Discard the O-ring seals, new ones must be Recover and discard the O-ring seals - new
fitted. ones must be fitted (see illustration 9.13).
new O-ring seals when reconnecting the
Warning: Failure to seal the
refrigerant pipes. Refitting
|\ pipe unions will result
61 Refitting is a reversal of removal. in the receiver/drier becoming
Receiver/drier saturated, necessitating its renewal.
Removal Expansion valve 64 Undo the two bolts and remove the
62 Have the air conditioning system fully expansion valve (see illustration). Recover
58 Remove the condenser as previously
discharged by an air conditioning specialist. and discard the O-ring seals - new ones must
described. be fitted.
59 Prise the rubber cap from the end of the 63 Undo the bolts/nuts securing the
condenser, the remove the circlip securing the refrigerant pipes to the connection at the Refitting
receiver/drier (see illustrations). engine compartment bulkhead. Plug/cover the 65 Refitting is a reversal of removal.
3«12 Notes
4A»1

Chapter 4 Part A:
Fuel systems - petrol engine
Section number Section number
Air cleaner and intake system - removal and refitting 2 Fuel pump and gauge sender unit - removal and refitting 6
Air cleaner filter element - renewal See Chapter 1A Fuel system components - removal and refitting 4
Cruise control system - general information 11 Fuel tank - removal and refitting 7
Fuel filter - renewal 5 General information and precautions 1
Fuel injection system - depressurisation 8 Intake air temperature control system - general information 3
Fuel injection system -testing and adjustment 10 Intake manifold - removal and refitting 9

Degrees of difficulty
Easy, suitable for Fairly easy, suitable ^ Fairly difficult, Difficult, suitable Very difficult,
novice with little for beginner with ^ suitable for competent ^ for experienced DIY suitable for expert
experience some experience >^ DIY mechanic >JC mechanic DIY or professional

Specifications
Engine codes*
1.2 litre AZQ, BME and BXV
1.4 litre:
55 kW (74 bhp) BBY and BKY
63 kW (85 bhp) BXW
74 kW (99 bhp) AUB and BBZ
* Note: The engine code may be found on the vehicle data sticker, by the spare wheel.
System type
1.2 litre engines:
Engine code AZQ Siemens Simos 3PE
Engine code BME Siemens Simos SPG
Engine code BXV Siemens Simos 9.1
1.4 litre engines:
Engine codes AUB, BBY and BBZ Magneti Marelli 4MV
Engine code BKY Magneti Marelli 4TV
Engine code BXW Magneti Marelli 4HV
Recommended fuel
Minimum octane rating 95 RON unleaded
(91 RON unleaded may be used, but with reduced performance)

Fuel system data
Fuel pump type Electric, immersed in fuel tank
Fuel pump delivery rate 600 cc/30 sees (battery voltage of 12.5 V)
Regulated fuel pressure 2.5 bar
Injector electrical resistance (typical) 12 to 17 ohms
Torque wrench settings Nm ibf ft
Camshaft position sensor 8 6
Fuel rail mounting bolts 10
Fuel tank 25 18
Intake air temperature/pressure sensor 2
Intake manifold 20 15
Knock sensor(s) 20 15
Oxygen sensor(s) 50 37
Throttle valve control unit:
1.2 litre engines 8 6
1.4 litre engines 10 7
4A»2 Fuel systems - petrol engine

camshaft posit on, throttle position and rate of Precautions
1 General information opening, intake] manifold depression, intake air
and precautions Warning: Petrol is extremely
temperature, opolant temperature and exhaust flammable - great care must be
gas oxygen content information, received from taken when working on any part
sensors mounued on and around the engine. of the fuel system.
Intake air id drawn into the engine through • Do not smoke, or allow any naked flames
General information the air cleaner, which contains a renewable or uncovered light bulbs near the work
The systems described in this Chapter paper filter element. The air cleaner is integral area. Note that gas-powered domestic
are all self-contained engine management with the engine top cover. On all engines, the appliances with pilot flames, such as
systems, which control both the fuel injection intake air temperature is regulated by a valve heaters boilers and tumble-dryers, also
and ignition. This Chapter deals with the fuel mounted in the air cleaner intake trunking, present a fire hazard - bear this in mind
system components only - see Chapter 4C which blends air at ambient temperature with if you are working in an area where such
for information on the exhaust and emission hot air, drawn from over the exhaust manifold. appliances are present. Always keep a
control systems, and to Chapter 5B for details The temperature and pressure of the suitable fire extinguisher close to the
of the ignition system. air entering Jhe engine is measured by a work area, and familiarise yourself with its
The fuel injection system comprises a sensor locatad on the intake manifold. This operation before starting work. Wear eye
fuel tank, an electric fuel pump/level sender information ijj used by the ECM to fine-tune protection when working on fuel systems,
unit, a fuel filter, fuel supply and return lines, the fuelling requirements for different operating and wash off any fuel spilt on bare skin
a throttle valve control unit, a fuel rail, four conditions. immediately with soap and water. Note that
electronic fuel injectors, and an Electronic Idle speedllis determined by the ECM, and fuel vapour is just as dangerous as liquid
Control Module (ECM) together with its manual adjustment of the engine idle speed is fuel - possibly more so; a vessel that has
associated sensors, actuators and wiring. not necessary or possible. been emptied of liquid fuel will still contain
All the fuel systems used operate in the The exhaust gas oxygen content is vapour, and can be potentially explosive.
same manner, but there are some detail constantly monitored by the ECM through • Many of the operations described in this
differences. The electronic power control two oxygen pensors (also known as lambda Chapter involve the disconnection of fuel
system (EPC) is completely electronic, and no sensors). One is fitted before the catalytic lines, which may cause an amount of fuel
accelerator cable is fitted. The position of the converter, arid the other after - this improves spillage. Before commencing work, refer to
accelerator pedal is signalled from the pedal sensor response time and accuracy, and the the above 'Warning' and the information in
control unit by two variable resistors, and the ECM compares the signals from each sensor 'Safety first!' at the beginning of this manual.
throttle valve is then activated by an electric to confirm pat the converter is working • Residual fuel pressure always remains in
motor in the throttle valve control unit on the correctly. Tne ECM uses the information from the fuel system, long after the engine has
intake manifold. With the engine stopped, the sensor(s|to modify the injection timing and been switched off. This pressure must be
the position of the throttle valve is directly duration to maintain the optimum air/fuel ratio relieved in a controlled manner before work
comparable to the position of the accelerator - a result of this is that manual adjustment of can commence on any component in the
pedal, however, when the engine is running the idle exhaust CO content is not necessary fuel system - refer to Section 8 for details.
the engine control unit opens and closes the or possible! Refer to Chapter 4C for more • When working with fuel system
throttle valve independently according to the information. components, pay particular attention to
prevailing conditions. This may mean, for On all engines, the ECM controls the cleanliness - dirt entering the fuel system
example, that the throttle valve may be fully operation jpf the activated charcoal filter may cause blockages, which will lead to
open even though the accelerator pedal is evaporative loss system - refer to Chapter 4C poor running.
only half open. The engine Electronic Control for further details. • In the interests of personal safety
Module (ECM) determines the best position It should be noted that fault diagnosis of all and equipment protection, many of the
for the throttle valve in the interests of the engine management systems described in procedures in this Chapter suggest that
exhaust gas emission and fuel consumption. this Chapter is only possible with dedicated the negative lead be removed from the
In the event of a fault in the system, the EPC electronic lest equipment. Problems with battery terminal. This firstly eliminates
warning light will illuminate on the instrument the systenjjs operation should therefore be the possibility of accidental short-circuits
panel and the fault will be stored in the fault referred to « Seat dealer or suitably-equipped being caused as the car is being worked
memory. The system then switches to its specialist for assessment. Once the fault upon, and secondly prevents damage
emergency settings and the engine speed is has been identified, the removal/refitting to electronic components (eg, sensors,
increased to allow the driver to take the car to sequences detailed in the following Sections actuators, EC Ms) which are particularly
a Seat dealer, however, the accelerator pedal sensitive to the power surges caused by
will then a low the appropriate component(s)
position senders are no longer operational. disconnection or reconnection of the wiring
to be renewed as required.
The fuel pump is immersed in the fuel inside harness whilst they are still 'live'. Refer to
the tank, and delivers a constant supply of Chapter 5A.
fuel through a cartridge filter to the fuel rail.
The pressure regulator is integral with the fuel
filter located next to the fuel tank, and the
return line is taken from the filter to the fuel
tank. The fuel pressure regulator maintains a
constant fuel pressure to the fuel injectors,
Air cleaner and
intake system -
removal and refitting
I
I
and returns excess fuel to the tank through
the return line. This constant flow system Removal
also helps to reduce fuel temperature, and
prevents vaporisation. 1.2 litre engines
The fuel injectors are opened and closed by 1 Pull the air cleaner/engine cover upwards
the Electronic Control Module (ECM), which from the rubber mountings, and pull the
calculates the injection timing and duration 2.1 a Pul (the engine cover/air filter housing breather hose from the cylinder head cover
according to engine speed, crankshaft/ upward s from the rubber mountings . . . (see illustrations).
Fuel systems - petrol engine 4A«3

1.4 litre engines Refitting
2 The air filter is incorporated in the engine 8 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but use
top cover. new O-rings/gaskets and progressively tighten
3 Lift the cover and disconnect the hot-air the mounting bolts to the specified torque.
hose from the control flap housing. Disconnect
the breather hose as the cover is removed. Fuel injectors and fuel rail
Note: If a faulty injector is suspected, before
Refitting removing the injectors, it is worth trying
4 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but check the effect of one of the proprietary injector-
that the adapter ring is correctly located and cleaning treatments. These can be added
ensure that all hoses are securely fitted. to the petrol in the tank, and are intended to
clean the injectors as you drive.
3 Intake air temperature 2.1 b . . . and disconnect the breather hose Removal
control system -
general information 9 Remove the engine top cover as described
08/2003, unbolt the crankcase ventilation pipe in Section 2.
from the intermediate plate located between 10 Unplug the injector harness connectors,
1 The intake air temperature control system
the throttle valve control unit and intake labelling them to aid correct refitting later
consists of a temperature-controlled flap (see illustration). Release the wiring harness
valve, mounted on the air cleaner housing, manifold.
clips from the top of the fuel rail, and lay the
and a hose to the warm-air collector plate 4 Disconnect the wiring plug from the throttle
harness to one side.
over the exhaust manifold. valve control unit (see illustration).
11 Refer to Section 8 and depressurise the
2 The temperature sensor in the flap valve 5 Progressively unscrew the mounting bolts
fuel system.
housing senses the temperature of the intake and lift the throttle valve control unit from the
12 Squeeze the catch on the quick-release
air, and opens the valve when a preset lower top of the intake manifold (see illustration). fitting, and disconnect the fuel supply hose
limit is reached. As the flap valve opens, warm Recover the O-ring or gasket (as applicable) from the bulkhead. Alternatively, release the
air drawn from around the exhaust manifold and discard it, as a new one will be required spring clip securing the hose to the fuel rail.
blends with the intake air. on refitting. 13 Unscrew and remove the fuel rail
3 As the temperature of the intake air rises, 6 Where applicable, remove the intermediate mounting bolts, then carefully lift the rail away
the sensor closes the flap progressively, plate from the intake manifold and recover the from the intake manifold, together with the
until the warm-air supply from the exhaust O-ring. Discard the O-ring as a new one will injectors. Recover the injector lower O-ring
manifold is completely closed off, and only air be required on refitting. seals as they emerge from the manifold (see
at ambient temperature is admitted to the air 7 Clean the contact faces of the control unit, illustrations).
cleaner. intake manifold and intermediate plate as 14 The injectors can be removed individually
4 With the warm-air hose removed from the applicable. from the fuel rail by extracting the relevant
temperature control flap valve housing, a
hairdryer may be used to test the action of the
sensor.

4 Fuel system components - |k
removal and refitting g^>

Note: Observe the precautions in Section 1
before working on any component in the fuel
system. Information on the engine
management system sensors which are more
directly related to the ignition system will be
found in Chapter 56. After fitting any of the
components in this Section, have the engine 4.4 Disconnect the wiring plug from the 4.5 Throttle valve control unit mounting
management ECM's fault memory interrogated throttle valve control unit bolts (arrowed)
and any resident faults erased by a Seat dealer
or suitably-equipped specialist.
Throttle valve control unit
Caution: If the throttle valve control
unit is renewed, it will be necessary to
programme the new unit to the car before
it can be used - this must be carried out
by a Seat dealer or suitably-equipped
specialist.
Removal
1 Remove the engine top cover as described
in Section 2.
2 On 1.2 litre engines, unbolt the EGR valve
pipe from the intermediate plate. 4.10 Fuel injector wiring plug (arrowed) 4.13a Unscrew the mounting bolts
3 On 1.4 litre engines manufactured before 1.2 litre engine code BME (arrowed). . .
4A*4 Fuel systems - petrol engine

4.13b . . . and lift the fuel rail with injectors 4.13c .. en recover the injector lower 4.14a Extract the metal clip
from the intake manifold . . . O-ring seals

4.14b . . . withdraw the injector from the d recover the injector upper 4.16 Apply a little engine oil to the O-ring
fuel rail... O-ring seal seals to assist their refitting
metal clip and easing the injector out of the fen the vent valve when the 20 Unscrew the retaining bolt and withdraw
rail. Recover the injector upper O-ring seals of air bubbles. the sensor from the cylinder block/trans-
(see illustrations). tion, check for fuel leaks mission (see illustrations).
15 Check the electrical resistance of the ging the car back into service. Refitting
injectors using a multimeter, and compare it
with the Specifications. Fuel pres ure regulator 21 Refitting is a reversal of removal.
Refitting 17 The fuel ressure regulator is removed Intake air temperature/
when changir the fuel filter, as described in pressure sensor
16 Refit the injectors and fuel rail by following Section 5.
the removal procedure in reverse, noting the Removal
following points: Engine spped sensor 22 The combined intake air temperature and
a) Renew the injector O-ring seals if they
Removal pressure sensor is located on the right-hand
appear worn or damaged. Apply a little
engine oil to the seals to assist their 18 The engin speed sensor is mounted at side of the intake manifold.
refitting (see illustration). the left-hand ear of the cylinder block, next 23 Remove the engine top cover (Section 2)
and disconnect the wiring from the sensor.
b) Ensure that the injector retaining clips are to the transmit sion bellhousing, and access is
24 Undo the two mounting bolts and remove
securely seated. very difficult. F amove the engine cover/air filter
the sensor from the intake manifold. Recover
c) Check that all electrical connections are as described i Section 2. Where necessary,
the O-ring seal(s). Note: There are two O-ring
remade correctly. prise out the ubber bung for access to the
seals and a guide plate on 1.4 litre engines -
d) Purge air from the fuel rail by loosening sensor.
note how the guide plate is fitted.
the vent valve and temporarily switching 19 Trace the 'iring back from the sensor, and
on the ignition in order to operate the fuel unplug the ha less connector. Refitting
25 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but renew
the O-ring(s) and guide plate if necessary.
Knock sensor
Removal
26 The knock sensor is located on the rear
of the cylinder block and is difficult to access
(see illustration).
27 Remove the engine top cover to gain
access from above. Alternatively, firmly apply
the handbrake then jack up the front of the
car and support it on axle stands (see Jacking
and vehicle support), then remove the engine
4.20a Unscrew the bolt. . 4.20b and remove the engine speed undershield.
senspr - 1.2 litre engine 28 Disconnect the wiring connector from
Fuel systems - petrol engine 4A»5

4.26 The knock sensor is located on the 4.33 Remove the camshaft position sensor 4.39a Oxygen (lambda) sensor (arrowed)
rear of the cylinder block on the exhaust manifold

4.39b Oxygen (lambda) sensor (arrowed) 4.39c Use a slotted socket to loosen the 4.39d Remove the oxygen (lambda) sensor
on the exhaust downpipe oxygen (lambda) sensor from the exhaust manifold
the sensor or trace the wiring back from the cylinder head. Access to the downstream Refitting
sensor and disconnect its wiring connector. sensor is possible after raising the front of the
40 Apply a little high-temperature anti-seize
29 Unscrew the mounting bolt and remove car and supporting on axle stands.
grease to the sensor threads - avoid
the sensor from the cylinder block. Warning: Working on the sensor(s)
contaminating the probe tip.
Refitting |\s only advisable with the engine
(and therefore the exhaust system) 41 Refit the sensor, tightening it to the correct
30 Refitting is the reverse of removal. Ensure completely cold. The catalytic converter in torque. Restore the harness connection.
the mating surfaces of the sensor and cylinder particular will be very hot for some time
block are clean and dry, and ensure the
Clutch pedal switch
after the engine has been switched off.
mounting bolt is tightened to the specified 37 Working from the sensor, trace the wiring Removal
torque to ensure correct operation. harness from the oxygen sensor back to the 42 Fitted to all engines, the clutch switch is
Camshaft position sensor connector, and disconnect it. mounted on the clutch pedal bracket, and
38 Release the sensor wiring from any sends a signal to the ECM (see illustration).
Removal retaining clips, noting how it is routed. The purpose of the switch is to avoid engine
31 The camshaft position sensor is located 39 Slacken and withdraw the sensor, taking over-revving and load change jolts when the
on the left-hand end of the cylinder head. care to avoid damaging the sensor probe as it clutch is released. The switch also deactivates
32 Remove the engine top cover, and is removed. As a flying lead remains connected the cruise control system (where fitted) when
disconnect the wiring from the sensor. to the sensor after it has been disconnected, the pedal is pressed.
33 Unscrew the mounting bolt, and remove if the correct-size spanner is not available, a
43 To remove the switch, first remove the
the sensor (see illustration). slotted socket will be required to remove the
facia lower trim panel on the driver's side, as
sensor (see illustrations).
Refitting described in Chapter 11, Section 29.
34 Refitting is a reversal of removal. 44 Locate the switch wiring plug in front of
the clutch pedal, and disconnect it.
Coolant temperature sensor 45 Depress the clutch pedal, then rotate the
35 Refer to Chapter 3, Section 6. switch 45° anti-clockwise and withdraw it
from the pedal.
Oxygen (lambda) sensors Refitting
Removal 46 When refitting the switch, hold the clutch
36 One oxygen sensor is located upstream of pedal depressed, insert the switch and rotate
the catalytic converter in the exhaust manifold, it 45° clockwise. Further refitting is a reversal
and a second sensor is located downstream of removal.
of the catalytic converter in the exhaust front
pipe. The upstream sensor is accessible after Electronic control unit (ECM)
removing the engine top cover and the exhaust Caution: Always wait at least 30 seconds
hot air cowl, however, it is difficult to access 4.42 Clutch pedal switch after switching off the ignition before
as it is hidden between the manifold and the (arrowed) disconnecting the wiring from the ECM.
4A»6 Fuel systems - petrol engine

4.47 The ECM is located on the left-hand 4.50 Disconnect the wiring plugs and 5.2 Fuel filter location next to fuel tank -
side of the engine compartment bulkhead remove the ECM support collar retaining arm arrowed
When the wiring is disconnected, all the stand, ensur| that it will not inhibit access to that the direction-of-flow arrow is pointing
learned values are erased, although any the filter. towards the front of the car. Turn the filter so
contents of the fault memory are retained. 4 To further]|improve access, if necessary, that the peg can be engaged with the retaining
After reconnecting the wiring, the basic unhook the handbrake cable from the adjacent arm, and push the arm onto the peg to secure.
settings must be reinstated by a Seat wire clip. Ensure that the filter is securely mounted on
dealer using a special test instrument. 5 Disconnect the fuel hoses at either end of the car.
Note also that if the ECM is renewed, the filter, noting their locations for refitting. At 11 Connect the fuel hoses to each end of
the identification of the new ECM must the tank end pf the filter there are two hoses, the filter, in the same positions as noted on
be transferred to the immobiliser control a feed hose oploured black and a return hose removal. Push the hoses fully onto the filter
unit by a Seat dealer or suitably-equipped coloured blua, and at the engine/fuel rail end stubs and, if necessary, clip them back to
specialist. of the filter there is just one hose coloured the underside of the car. Hook the handbrake
Removal black. The connections are of quick-release cable back in place, if it was disturbed.
type, disconnected by squeezing the catch 12 Switch on the ignition to activate the fuel
47 The ECM is located on the left-hand side pump. Check for signs of fuel leakage at both
on each. It may be necessary to release the
of the engine compartment bulkhead (see ends of the filter.
hoses from tne clips on the underside of the
illustration). First disconnect the battery 13 If all is well, lower the car to the ground,
car to allow greater movement.
negative lead as described in Chapter 5A. then start the engine. Check under the car for
6 Before removing the filter, look for an arrow
48 Where necessary, remove the air cleaner signs of fuel leaks from the filter.
marking, whicn points in the direction of fuel flow
assembly as described in Section 2.
- in this case, towards the front of the car. The
49 Pull away the upper and lower retaining
new filter must be fitted the same way round.
clips and, at the same time, slide the ECM 6 Fuel pump and
outwards to release it. 7 The filter sijs in a support collar - release
the collar by qarefully pulling the retaining arm
gauge sender unit -
50 Disconnect the wiring plug by releasing removal and refitting
the catches (see illustration). off the peg o| the filter body, and slide the
filter out. Try to keep it as level as possible, to
Refitting reduce fuel sraillage. Dispose of the old filter Note: Observe the precautions in Section 7
51 Refitting is a reversal of removal. Press carefully - even if the fuel inside is tipped out, before working on any component in the fuel
the unit to the left, once in position, to the filter element will still be soaked in fuel, system.
secure it. Bear in mind the comments made and will be highly flammable. Warning: Avoid direct skin contact
in the Caution above - the ECM will not 8 The fuel pressure regulator is secured to the r|\ fuel - wear protective
work correctly until it has been electronically filter by a largffl spring clip. Withdraw the clip, clothing and gloves when handling
coded. then carefully remove the regulator by pulling fuel system components. Ensure that the
it from the fual filter. Recover the O-rings - work area is well-ventilated to prevent the
5 Fuel filter - new ones should be used when refitting. build-up of fuel vapour.
renewal gb 9 Fit new O-rmgs to the pressure regulator,
then seat it fully into the new filter, and secure
General information
it using the spring clip. 1 The fuel pump and gauge sender unit are
10 Offer the qfew filter into position, ensuring combined in one assembly, which is mounted
Note: Observe the precautions in Section 1 in the top of the fuel tank. Access is through a
before working on any component in the fuel hatch provided in the load space floor.
system. Caution: Removal of the sender unit
1 Depressurise the fuel system as described involves exposing the contents of the fuel
in Section 8. Remember, however, that this tank to the atmosphere.
procedure merely relieves the fuel pressure,
reducing the risk of fuel spraying when the Removal
connections are disturbed - fuel will still be 2 Depressurise the fuel system as described
spilt during filter renewal, so take precautions in Section 8.
accordingly. 3 Ensure that the car is parked on a level
2 The fuel filter is located in front of the fuel surface, then disconnect the battery negative
tank, on the right-hand underside of the car lead as described in Chapter 5A.
(see illustration). 4 Fold the rear seat cushion forwards, and lift
3 Jack up the right-hand rear of the car, and the carpet section from the body panel.
support it on an axle stand (see Jacking and 6.5 Prise utfi the rubber access hatch 5 Carefully prise the rubber hatch away from
vehicle support). When positioning the axle the floorpan (see illustration).
Fuel systems - petrol engine 4A»7

6.7 Depress the release catch and 6.8a Note the alignment marks . . . 6.8b . . . then unscrew the plastic securing
disconnect the hose(s) ring. Home-made tool shown
6 Unplug the wiring harness connector from
the pump/sender unit.
7 Pad the area around the supply and return
fuel hoses with rags to absorb any spilt fuel,
then squeeze the catch to release the hose
clips and disconnect them from the ports at the
sender unit (alternatively, use a screwdriver to
depress the catch) (see illustration). Observe
the supply and return arrow markings on the
ports - label the fuel hoses accordingly to
ensure correct refitting later. The supply pipe
is black, and may have white markings, while
the return pipe is blue, or has blue markings.
8 Note the position of the alignment marks, 6.9a Lift out the pump/sender unit... 6.9b . . . and recover the flange seal
then unscrew the plastic securing ring and
remove it. Use a pair of water pump pliers or Refitting port is marked V; on some models, there
a suitable tool to grip and rotate the plastic 16 Refit the pump/sender unit by following may be arrow markings indicating fuel flow.
securing ring, if necessary (see illustrations). the removal procedure in reverse, noting the Ensure that the fuel hose fittings click fully
9 Lift out the pump/sender unit, holding it following points: into place.
above the level of the fuel in the tank until a) Take care not to bend the float arm as the e) On completion, check that all associated
the excess fuel has drained out. Recover the unit is refitted. pipes are securely clipped to the tank.
flange seal with the sender/pump unit (see b) Smear the outside of tank aperture rubber f) Before refitting the access hatch and rear
illustrations). seal with clean fuel or lubricating spray, to seat, run the engine and check for fuel
10 Remove the pump/sender unit from the leaks.
ease fitting. Unless a new seal is required,
car, and lay it on an absorbent card or rag. the seal should be left on the pump unit
Inspect the float at the end of the sender unit before fitting. When the unit is almost fully 7 Fuel tank -
swinging arm for punctures and fuel ingress in place, slide the seal down and locate it removal and refitting ^
- renew the unit if it appears damaged. on the rim of the tank aperture, then slide
Temporarily refit the plastic securing ring to the unit fully home.
the fuel tank to prevent any distortion. c) The arrow markings on the sender unit Note: Observe the precautions in Section 1
11 The fuel pick-up incorporated in the body and the access aperture must be before working on any component in the fuel
assembly is spring-loaded to ensure that it aligned. system.
always draws fuel from the lowest part of the d) Reconnect the fuel hoses to the correct
tank. Check that the pick-up is free to move ports - observe the direction-of-flow arrow Removal
under spring tension with respect to the markings, and refer to paragraph 7. The 1 Before the tank can be removed, it must
sender unit body. return port is marked R, while the supply be drained of as much fuel as possible. As
12 Inspect the rubber seal from the fuel
tank aperture for signs of fatigue - renew it if
necessary.
13 Inspect the sender unit wiper and track;
clean off any dirt and debris that may have
accumulated, and look for breaks in the track.
14 If required, the sender unit can be
separated from the assembly, as follows.
Disconnect the two small wires (note their
positions), then release the clips and slide the
unit downwards to remove (see illustrations).
15 The unit top plate can be removed by
releasing the plastic tags at either side;
recover the large spring which fits onto a peg 6.14a Disconnect the wiring plugs 6.14b . . . then release the clips (arrowed)
on the plate underside. (arrowed)... and slide the sender unit downwards
4A»8 Fuel systems - petrol engine

no drain plug is provided, it is preferable to 21 Unscrew |nd remove the tank mounting pipes and flexible hoses of the fuel lines
carry out this operation with the tank almost bolts. between these components. All these contain
empty. 22 Lower the tank from the underside of the fuel, which will be under pressure while the
2 Open the fuel filler flap, and unscrew car. If necess try, detach the various pipes engine is running and/or while the ignition
the fuel filler cap - leave the cap loosely in and hoses fro the tank, and remove the fuel is switched on. The pressure will remain
place. pump and gai |e sender unit with reference to for some time after the ignition has been
3 Disconnect the battery negative lead as Section 6. switched off, and must be relieved before
described in Chapter 5A. Using a hand pump 23 If the tan is contaminated with sediment any of these components are disturbed for
or siphon, remove any remaining fuel from the or water, s I the tank out with clean servicing work. Ideally, the engine should
bottom of the tank. fuel. The tanj is injection-moulded from a be allowed to cool completely before work
4 Loosen the right-hand rear wheel bolts, synthetic maj erial and, if damaged, should commences.
then jack up the rear of the car and remove be renewed, However, in certain cases it 2 Place a suitable container beneath the
the right-hand rear wheel. may be po ible to have small leaks or relevant connection/union to be disconnected,
5 Remove the right-hand rear wheel arch liner minor damag repaired. Seek the advice of a then wrap clean cloth around it. Where a union
as described in Chapter 11, Section 25. suitable spec list before attempting to repair connection is fitted, loosen it slightly before
6 Gain access to the top of the fuel pump/ the fuel tank. wrapping the cloth around.
sender unit as described in Section 6, and 3 Slowly open the connection to avoid a
disconnect the wiring harness from the top
Refitting
sudden release of pressure. Once the pressure
of the pump/sender unit at the multiplug 24 Refitting is the reverse of the removal has been released, disconnect the fuel line.
connector. procedure, n (ting the following points: Insert plugs to minimise fuel loss and prevent
7 Unscrew the fuel filler flap unit retaining a) When lifti ig the tank back into position, the entry of dirt into the fuel system.
bolt where fitted (on the side opposite the flap take care lo ensure none of the hoses
hinge), and ease the flap unit out of position. get trapp <d between the tank and vehicle
Recover the rubber seal which fits around the body.
b) Ensure t 't all pipes and hoses are Intake manifold -
filler neck. removal and refitting
8 Undo the bolt securing the filler tube. correctly 'outed, are not kinked, and
9 Fold the rear seat cushion forwards and lift are secu i/y held in position with their
the carpet section from the load space floor. retainingl •lips.
10 Slacken and withdraw the access hatch c) Tighten <e tank strap retaining bolts to Note: Observe the precautions in Section 1
bolts, and lift the hatch away from the the spec 7ed torque. before working on any component in the fuel
floorpan. d) On com 'etion, refill the tank with fuel, system.
11 Unplug the wiring harness connector from and che for signs of leakage prior to
the pump/sender unit. taking f/i car out on the road. Removal
12 Remove the activated charcoal 1 A one-piece intake manifold is fitted to
(evaporative) filter from its location behind the the rear of the cylinder head on all models.
filler tube as described in Chapter 4C. 8 Fueli Ejection system - First, disconnect the battery negative lead as
13 The fuel tank is protected from below by depr© isurisation described in Chapter 5A.
one or more plastic covers. Undo the fasteners 2 Remove the engine top cover. Where
and remove the covers. applicable, unclip the hose from the top of the
14 Referring to Chapter 4C if necessary, intake manifold (see illustration).
Note: Obse ve the precautions in Section 1
unbolt the exhaust rear silencer mounting, and 3 With reference to Section 4, remove the
before work ig on any component in the fuel
carefully lower the rear section of the exhaust throttle valve control unit from the intake
system.
system. Given that the rear axle assembly has W. rning: The following procedure
manifold.
to be removed (or at least lowered) to allow 4 Disconnect the vacuum hose for the brake
r! 'I merely relieve the pressure
the tank to be removed, it is preferable to vacuum servo noting how it is routed.
in the fuel system - remember
remove the rear section of the exhaust system that fuel 7 still be present in the system 5 To allow the manifold to be removed
completely. compone ts and take precautions completely, and to improve access to the
15 Refer to Chapter 10 and remove the rear according before disconnecting any of manifold mounting bolts, remove the fuel
axle assembly. Alternatively, it is possible to them. rail and injectors as described in Section 4.
just lower the axle out of position, rather than 1 The fuel ystem referred to in this Section However, if the manifold is being removed as
completely removing it. is defined s the tank-mounted fuel pump, part of another procedure (such as cylinder
16 Depressurise the fuel system as described the fuel filt , the fuel injectors, and the metal head or engine removal), the fuel rail can be
in Section 8. left in place.
17 Remove the fuel filter as described in 6 Disconnect the wiring plug from the intake
Section 5, or alternatively disconnect the air temperature/pressure sensor, referring
single outlet hose from the engine side of the if necessary to Section 4 for more details
filter. (see illustration). Alternatively, remove it
18 Disconnect the activated charcoal completely.
(evaporative) filter just in front of the right-hand 7 Progressively loosen the bolts and withdraw
side of the fuel tank. the manifold from the cylinder head. Recover
19 Unscrew and remove the retaining bolts the O-ring seals - all should be renewed when
and detach the tensioning strap from the refitting the manifold (see illustration).
tank.
20 Position a trolley jack under the centre of Refitting
the tank. Insert a block of wood between the 8 Refitting is a reversal of removal. Use
jack head and the tank to prevent damage to a new gasket or seals, as applicable, and
the tank surface. Raise the jack to support the 9.2 Coolant purge hose retaining clips tighten the retaining bolts/nuts to the
weight of the tank. (arrowed) Ion the top of the intake manifold specified torque.
Fuel systems - petrol engine 4A«9

H31970

9.6 Intake manifold - 1.4 litre engine up to 08/2003
1 Throttle valve control 3 Gasket 6 Intake manifold 8 Guide plate 1 1 Intake air temperature/
unit 4 EGR pipe flange bolt 9 O-rings pressure sensor
2 Bolt 5 Seal 7 Manifold seal 10 Bolt 12 Intake manifold
connected, and the engine breather hoses are a time-consuming operation that is unlikely
10 Fuel injection system clear and undamaged, referring to Chapter 1A, to be fruitful (particularly if the fault occurs
testing and adjustment Chapter 2A or 2B and Chapter 5B. dynamically), and carries a high risk of damage
2 If these checks fail to reveal the cause of to the ECM's internal components.
the problem, the car should be taken to a 5 Experienced home mechanics equipped
1 If a fault appears in the fuel injection system, suitably-equipped Seat dealer or specialist for with an accurate tachometer and a carefully-
first ensure that all the system wiring connectors testing. A diagnostic connector is incorporated calibrated exhaust gas analyser may be able
are securely connected and free of corrosion. in the engine management system wiring to check the exhaust gas CO content and the
Then ensure that the fault is not due to poor harness, into which dedicated electronic engine idle speed; if these are found to be out
maintenance; ie, check that the air cleaner filter test equipment can be plugged (the purple- of specification, then the car must be taken to
element is clean, the spark plugs are in good coloured connector is located under the facia, a suitably-equipped Seat dealer or specialist
condition and correctly gapped, the cylinder behind the driver's storage compartment) (see for assessment. Neither the air/fuel mixture
compression pressures are correct, the ignition illustration). The test equipment is capable of (exhaust gas CO content) nor the engine idle
system wiring is in good condition and securely 'interrogating' the engine management system speed are manually adjustable.
ECM electronically and accessing its internal
fault log (reading fault codes).
3 Fault codes can only be extracted from
the ECM using a dedicated fault code reader.
A Seat dealer will obviously have such a
reader, but they are also available from other
suppliers. It is unlikely to be cost-effective for
the private owner to purchase a fault code
reader, but a well-equipped local garage or
auto-electrical specialist will have one.
4 Using this equipment, faults can be
pinpointed quickly and simply, even if
their occurrence is intermittent. Testing all
9.7 Remove the inlet manifold - the system components individually in an 10.2 A diagnostic connector is located
1.2 litre engine attempt to locate the fault by elimination is under the driver's side of the facia (arrowed)
4A»10 Fuel systems - petrol engine

engine management ECM, which regulates which can be removed as described in
11 Cruise control system - the speed \ a the throttle valve control unit. Chapter 12, Section 4.
general information 3 The systern refers to signals from the engine 6 Any problems with the system which are
speed sensor (see Section 4) and roadspeed not caused by wiring faults or failure of
sensor (onrapetransmission or supplied by the the components mentioned in this Section
1 Certain models may be equipped with a wheel speeq sensors). should be referred to a Seat dealer or
cruise control system, in which the driver can 4 The systelm is deactivated if the clutch or suitably-equipped specialist. In the event of
set a chosen speed, which the system will brake peda s are pressed, signalled by the a problem occurring, it is advisable to first
then try to maintain regardless of gradients, clutch pedal switch (Section 4) or the brake take the car to a suitably-equipped dealer
etc. stop-light sv|itch (Chapter 9). or specialist for electronic fault diagnosis,
2 Once the desired speed has been set, the 5 The cruise control switch is part of the using a fault code reader - refer to Sec-
system is entirely under the control of the steering colurnn combination switch assembly, tion 10.
4B«1

Chapter 4 Part B:
Fuel systems - diesel engine
Contents Section number Section number
Air cleaner assembly - removal and refitting 2 General information and precautions 1
Diesel engine management system - component removal and Injectors - general information, removal and refitting 4
refitting 3 Intake manifold - removal and refitting 5
Fuel cooler - removal and refitting 10 Intake manifold flap and valve - removal and refitting 9
Fuel filter renewal See Chapter 1B Intercooler - removal and refitting See Chapter 4C
Fuel gauge sender/pump unit - removal and refitting 6 Tandem fuel pump - removal and refitting 8
Fuel tank - removal and refitting 7 Turbocharger - removal and refitting See Chapter 4C

Degrees of difficulty
Easy, suitable for ^ Fairly easy, suitable |^ Fairly difficult, |^ Difficult, suitable ^ Very difficult, ^k
novice with little for beginner with ^ suitable for competent ^x for experienced DIY ^ suitable for expert 5^
experience ^ some experience 3^ DIY mechanic 2^ mechanic 3^ DIY or professional 3^

Specifications
General
Manufacturer's engine codes:*
1.4 litre, 3-cylinder AMF, BMS, BNM and BNV
1.9 litre, 4-cylinder ASZ, AID, AXR, BLT and BMT
System type Electronic direct injection, unit injectors
Firing order:
1.4 litre engines 1-2-3
1.9 litre engines 1-3-4-2
Maximum engine speed. N/A (ECM-controlled)
Idle speed N/A (ECM-controlled)
Fast idle speed. N/A (ECM-controlled)
Note: See 'Vehicle identification' for the location of the code marking on the engine.

Fuel injectors
Resistance . . 0.5 ohms

Tandem pump
Fuel pressure at 1500 rpm 3.5 bar
Turbocharger
Type Garrett or KKK
4B»2 Fuel systems - diesel engine

Torque wrench settings Nm Ibfft
Accelerator pedal sender 10 7
EGR pipe flange bolts 25 18
EGR valve 10 7
Fuel cooler 15 11
Fuel cut-off solenoid valve ... 40 30
Fuel filter bracket 25 18
Fuel pump return pipe cap nut 25 18
Fuel tank 25 18
Injector clamp bolt:
Stage 1 12 9
Stage 2 .. Angle-tighten a further 270°
Injector pipe union nut 25 18
Intake manifold flap housing to manifold 10 7
Intake manifold to cylinder head 25 18
Pump injector adjuster locknut 30 22
Pump injector rocker shaft bolts:*
Stage 1 20 15
Stage 2 Angle-tighten a further 90°
Tandem pump bolts:
Upper 20 15
Lower 10 7
Turbocharger oil return pipe to cylinder block:
1 .4 litre engines 30 22
1 .9 litre engines 40 30
Turbocharger to catalytic converter 25 18
Turbocharger to exhaust manifold* 25 18
* Do not re-use

is controlled y the engine management ECM management ECM, which adjusts the quantity
1 General information and a solen on each injector. The resultant of fuel injected, thus controlling the engine
and precautions effect of th system is improved engine speed. Various sensors are used to enable
torque and p wer output, greater combustion the ECM to set the exact quantity of fuel to
efficiency, a lower exhaust emissions. All inject, and the pump timing (commencement
three engin are fitted with a turbocharger, of injection).
General information and a fuel < oler is fitted on the underbody In addition, the ECM manages the operation
The direct injection fuel systems consist between t fuel tank and the engine of the Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR)
of a fuel tank, an engine-bay mounted fuel compartmen All turbo engines are fitted with emission control system (Chapter 4C), the
filter with an integral water separator, fuel a valve bio located in the rear left-hand turbocharger boost pressure control system
supply and return lines, and three or four fuel corner of th engine compartment; this unit (Chapter 4C) and the glow plug control system
injectors. includes th intake manifold changeover (Chapter 5A).
The fuel is delivered by a camshaft-driven valve, EGR \d val
ve and charge pressure control An electrically- or vacuum-operated
'tandem pump' at low pressure, through a (see illustrations). flap valve is fitted to the intake manifold to
gallery in the cylinder head to the injectors The dire -injection fuelling system is increase the vacuum in order to operate the
(known as 'unit injectors'). A 'roller rocker' controlled « ctronically by a diesel engine EGR system efficiently. It is also closed by the
assembly, mounted above the camshaft managemen ystem, comprising an Electronic ECM for 3 seconds as the engine is switched
bearing caps, uses an extra set of camshaft Control Mo ule (ECM) and its associated off to minimise the air intake as the engine
lobes to compress the top of each injector sensors, ac ators and wiring. The system shuts down. This minimises the vibration felt
once per firing cycle. This arrangement creates is complete electronic, and no accelerator as the pistons come up against the volume
far higher injection pressures. The precise cable is fitte The throttle position sensor at of highly compressed air present in the
timing of the pre-injection and main injection the acceler r pedal is linked to the engine combustion chambers. On 1.9 litre engines,
a vacuum reservoir mounted on the front of
the engine provides the vacuum supply to a
vacuum capsule which operates the flap (see
illustrations).
It should be noted that fault diagnosis
of the diesel engine management system
is only possible with dedicated electronic
test equipment - a diagnostic connector
is incorporated in the engine management
system wiring harness, into which dedicated
electronic test equipment can be plugged
(the purple-coloured connector is located at
the front of the facia, above the pedals - pull
down the storage compartment to access
1.2a Fuel cooler on the underbody 1.2b Valve ock located in the rear right- the plug) (see illustration). Problems with
hand corr of the engine compartment the system's operation should therefore be
Fuel systems - diesel engine 4B«3

1,5a Vacuum reservoir for intake manifold 1.5b Vacuum capsule (arrowed) on intake 1.6 A diagnostic connector (arrowed) is
flap valve manifold below the EGR valve located under the driver's side of the facia
referred to a Seat dealer or suitably-equipped extended period should be renewed. clips) and disconnect the air ducting from the
specialist for assessment. Once the fault • Diesel fuel systems are particularly air cleaner assembly or air mass meter (as
has been identified, the removal/refitting sensitive to contamination from dirt, air applicable) (see illustration).
sequences detailed in the following Sections and water. Pay particular attention to 2 Disconnect the wiring plug from the air mass
will then allow the appropriate component(s) cleanliness when working on any part of meter. Also disconnect the vacuum hose (see
to be renewed as required. the fuel system to prevent the ingress of illustrations).
dirt. Thoroughly clean the area around 3 Unclip any hoses, wiring, etc, which may be
Precautions fuel unions before disconnecting them. clipped to the air cleaner, noting their routing
Many of the operations described in this Only use lint-free cloths and clean fuel for for refitting.
Chapter involve the disconnection of fuel component cleaning.
lines, which may cause an amount of fuel 4 Remove the bolts securing the air cleaner
• Store dismantled components in sealed lid, and unhook it from the front clips, complete
spillage. Before commencing work, refer to containers to prevent contamination.
the warnings below and the information in with the air mass meter (see illustration). Lift
Safety first! at the beginning of this manual. out the air filter element.
2 Air cleaner assembly - 5 The lower half of the air cleaner is secured
Warning: When working on any
removal and refitting by a single bolt at the front. Remove the bolt
|\ of the fuel system, avoid
direct contact skin contact with and lift out the air cleaner upwards/forwards
diesel fuel - wear protective clothing from the rubber mountings, releasing the hose
and gloves when handling fuel system from the clip on the rear of the housing (see
components. Ensure that the work area is Removal illustration).
well ventilated to prevent the build-up of 1 Loosen the clips (or release the spring 6 If required, the rest of the air intake ducting
diesel fuel vapour.
• Fuel injectors operate at extremely high
pressures and the jet of fuel produced at
the nozzle is capable of piercing skin, with
potentially fatal results. When working with
pressurised injectors, take care to avoid
exposing any part of the body to the fuel
spray. It is recommended that a diesel
fuel systems specialist should carry out
any pressure testing of the fuel system
components.
• Do not allow diesel fuel to come into
contact with coolant hoses - wipe off
accidental spillage immediately. Hoses that
have been contaminated with fuel for an 2.1 Use a pair of pliers to release the 2.2a Disconnect the air mass meter wiring
spring clip from the air intake duct plug . . .

2.2b .. . and the vacuum hose 2.4 Remove the air cleaner lid 2.5 Remove the air cleaner housing and
intake duct
4B»4 Fuel systems - diesel engine

Coolant\temperature sensor Refitting
Removal 10 Refitting is a reversal of removal.
2 Refer to (jjhapter 1B and drain approximately Intake air temperature sensor
one quartei of the coolant from the engine.
Removal
Alternatively, be prepared for coolant spillage
as the sensjlr is removed. 11 All models have an air temperature sensor
3 Where necessary for access, remove the built into the air mass meter. This sensor is an
engine top cover(s). Removal details vary integral part of the air mass meter, and cannot
according to model, but the cover retaining be renewed separately. An additional air
nuts are cojncealed under circular covers, temperature/pressure sensor is fitted, either
which are prised out of the main cover. on top of the intercooler, or on the air hose
Remove themuts, and lift the cover from the from the intercooler to the intake manifold,
2.6 Air intake duct securing bolt (arrowed) engine, releasing any wiring or hoses attached. and this can be renewed as described below.
- depending on model 12 Trace the air hose back from the intake
Note that on most 1.4 litre models, the cover
can be removed by releasing the retaining simply pulls |p from the rubber mountings. manifold to the point where it passes through
clips; however, some sections of the intake 4 The sensor is at the top coolant outlet the inner wing. If the sensor is mounted on
duct are bolted in place (see illustration). elbow, at tne front of the cylinder head. the hose, disconnect the wiring plug, then
For details of removing the intercooler-related Unplug the wiring from it at the connector remove the two retaining bolts and withdraw
ducting, refer to Chapter 4C. (see illustration). the sensor. Recover the O-ring seal.
5 Remove tne securing clip, then extract the 13 If the sensor is mounted on the intercooler,
Refitting remove the right-hand headlight as described in
sensor from rjp housing and recover the O-ring
7 Refit the air cleaner by following the removal Chapter 12, Section 7. The sensor can then be
seal.
procedure in reverse. removed in the same way as the pipe-mounted
Refitting type.
3 Diesel engine management |k 6 Refit the qpolant temperature sensor by Refitting
system - component removal ^ reversing the (removal procedure, using a new
O-ring seal. Hefer to Chapter 1B or Weekly 14 Refit the intake air temperature sensor by
and refitting *k reversing the removal procedure, using a new
checks and top-up the cooling system.
O-ring seal.
Note: Observe the precautions in Section 1 Fuel temperature sensor
before working on any component in the fuel
Engine speed sensor
Removal
system. After fitting any of the components Removal
in this Section, have the engine management 7 A fuel temp rature sensor is located at the
15 The engine speed sensor is mounted on the
ECM's fault memory interrogated and any left-hand fron end of the cylinder head. On
front cylinder block, adjacent to the mating surface
resident faults erased by a Seat dealer or some models an additional sensor may be
of the block and transmission bellhousing.
suitably-equipped specialist. located in the el tank return line, next to the
16 Where necessary for access, remove the
fuel filter in the ight-hand corner of the engine
Accelerator pedal engine top cover.
compartment.
position sensor 17 Trace the wiring back from the sensor, and
8 To remove the sensor located in the
disconnect it at the plug behind the oil filter
1 The position sensor is integral with the cylinder head place cloth rags beneath it
housing (see illustration).
accelerator pedal. The pedal assembly can then disconne |t the wiring and unbolt it. Be
18 Remove the retaining bolt and withdraw
be removed once access has been gained prepared for s loss of fuel.
the sensor from the cylinder block.
by removing the driver's lower facia panel - 9 To remove t ie sensor located in the fuel
Chapter 11, Section 29. Disconnect the sensor return line, dis jonnect the wiring then place Refitting
wiring plug and unscrew the nuts securing the cloth rags be eath it and disconnect the 19 Refit the sensor by reversing the removal
pedal to its mounting bracket. hoses. procedure.

3.4 Coolant temperature sensor wiring connector (arrowed 3.17 Wiring connector (arrowed) for speed sensor
Fuel systems - diesel engine 4B«5

Air mass meter
Removal
20 With reference to Section 2, slacken the
clips and disconnect the air ducting from the
air mass meter, at the rear of the air cleaner
housing.
21 Disconnect the wiring from the air mass
meter, and the vacuum hose (see Section 2).
22 Remove the retaining bolts and extract the
meter from the air cleaner housing. Recover
the O-ring seal.
Caution: Handle the air mass meter 4.4 Undo the adjustment bolt until the
carefully - its internal components are rocker arm lies against the plunger pin of 4.7 Remove the clamping block securing
easily damaged. the injector bolt (arrowed)
Refitting 35 Unscrew the mounting bolt and withdraw fatal results. You are strongly advised to
the sensor from the engine. have any work which involves testing the
23 Refitting is a reversal of removal. Renew injectors under pressure carried out by a
the O-ring seal if it appears damaged. Refitting
dealer or fuel injection specialist. Refer to
36 Refitting is a reversal of removal.
Absolute pressure the precautions given in Section 1 of this
(altitude) sensor Electronic control module (ECM) Chapter before proceeding.
24 The absolute pressure sensor is an Caution: Always wait at least 30 seconds General information
integral part of the ECM, and hence cannot be after switching off the ignition before
1 Injectors do deteriorate with prolonged use,
renewed separately. disconnecting the wiring from the ECM.
and it is reasonable to expect them to need
When the wiring is disconnected, all the
Clutch and brake pedal switches learned values are erased, however any
reconditioning or renewal after 60 000 miles or
so. Accurate testing, overhaul and calibration
Removal contents of the fault memory are retained.
After reconnecting the wiring, the basic of the injectors must be left to a specialist.
25 The clutch and brake pedal switches are
clipped to mounting brackets directly above
settings must be reinstated by a Seat Removal
dealer or suitably-equipped specialist using
their respective pedals. Note: Take care not to allow dirt into the
a special test instrument. Note also that if
26 The brake pedal switch operates as injectors or fuel pipes during this procedure.
the ECM is renewed, the identification of
a safety device, in the event of a problem Do not drop the injectors or allow the needles
the new ECM must be transferred to the
with the accelerator position sensor. If the at their tips to become damaged. The injectors
immobiliser control unit by a Seat dealer or
brake pedal switch is depressed while the are precision-made to fine limits, and must not
suitably-equipped specialist.
accelerator pedal is held at a constant be handled roughly.
position, the engine speed will drop to idle. Removal
1.4 litre engines
Thus, a faulty or incorrectly-adjusted brake 37 The ECM is located on the left-hand
pedal switch may result in a running problem. side of the engine compartment bulkhead. 2 With reference to Chapter 2C, remove the
27 The clutch pedal switch operation causes First disconnect the battery negative lead as upper timing belt cover and camshaft cover.
the injection pump to momentarily reduce described in Chapter 5A. 3 A single rocker arm shaft is fitted. Using a
its output while the clutch is disengaged, to 38 Remove the air cleaner assembly as spanner or socket, turn the crankshaft pulley
permit smoother gearchanging. described in Section 2. until the crankshaft is positioned at TDC
28 To remove either switch, refer to Chap- 39 Pull away the upper and lower retaining (No 1 cylinder) as described in Chapter 2C.
ter 11, Section 29, and remove the trim panels clips and, at the same time, slide the ECM Adjust the position of the crankshaft so that
from under the steering column area of the outwards to release it. the injector operating arms are all pointing
facia, to gain access to the pedal cluster. 40 Disconnect the wiring plug by releasing upwards evenly, ie, the injector plunger
29 The switches can be removed by the catches. springs are under the least amount of tension.
unclipping them from their mountings and 4 Working on each of the injectors in turn,
Refitting slacken the locknut of the adjustment screw
disconnecting the wiring plugs.
41 Refitting is a reversal of removal. Press on the end of the rocker arm, and undo the
Refitting the unit to the left, once in position, to adjustment screw until the rocker arm lies
30 Refitting is a reversal of removal. On secure it. Bear in mind the comments made against the plunger pin of the injector (see
completion, it may be necessary to have the in the Caution above - the ECM will not illustration).
switches reprogrammed by a Seat dealer or work correctly until it has been electronically 5 Starting at the outside and working in,
suitably-equipped specialist. coded. progressively slacken and remove the rocker
Camshaft position sensor shaft retaining bolts. Lift the rocker shaft from
the camshaft bearing caps. Check the contact
Removal 4 Injectors - |k face of each adjustment screw, and renew any
general information, g^ that show signs of wear.
31 The camshaft position sensor is located
removal and refitting Sk 6 Position the engine so that the exhaust lobe
behind the timing belt inner cover, on the
right-hand end of the cylinder head. of No 1 cylinder (nearest camshaft sprocket)
32 Remove the upper timing cover as Warning: Exercise extreme is pointing upwards. In this position, all three
described in Chapter 2C. caution when working on the fuel injector clamping pads can be removed.
33 Prise the rubber grommet from the timing injectors. Never expose the hands 7 Working on the first injector, undo the
belt inner cover. or any part of the body to injector spray, as clamping block securing bolt and remove
34 Trace the wiring from the camshaft position the high working pressure can cause the the block from the side of the injector (see
sensor to the connector and disconnect. fuel to penetrate the skin, with possibly illustration).
4B»6 Fuel systems - diesel engine

H32626
4.9a Unit injector removal toe 4.9b Seat the slide hammer/tool in the slot
a = 5 mm d Weld/braze the rod to f Cylindrical weight on the side on the injector, and pull the
b = 15 mm the angle-iron g Locknut injector out
c = 25 mm e Threaded rod
screw on the end of the rocker arm, and undo
the adjustment screw until the rocker arm lies
against the plunger pin of the injector.
15 Starting at the outside and working in,
progressively slacken and remove the rocker
shaft retaining bolts. Lift off the rocker shaft.
Check the contact face of each adjustment
screw, and renew any that show signs of
wear.
16 Turn the engine one complete turn and
remove the injector rocker shaft for cylinders 3
and 4, using the procedure described in para-
graphs 14 and 15.
4.11 a Undo the two nuts at the back of the 4.11b The ijector connectors will slide 17 Position the engine so that the exhaust
head and slide the injector loom/rail out into the lo< m/rail to prevent them from lobe of No 2 cylinder is pointing upwards
being damaged in-line with the rear edge of the rocker shaft
8 Using a small screwdriver, carefully prise angle-iron, sli le the weight over the rod, and lower bearing support (see illustration). In
the wiring connector from the injector. lock the two luts together at the end of the this position, all four injector clamping pads
9 Seat technicians use a slide hammer (tool rod to provic 5 the stop for the weight (see can be removed.
No T10055) to pull the injector from the illustration). : eat the slide hammer/tool in the 18 Follow the procedure described in
cylinder head. This is a slide hammer which slot on the s ie on the injector, and pull the paragraphs 7 to 11.
engages in the side of the injector. If this tool injector out u ing a few gently taps. Recover
is not available, it is possible to fabricate an circlip, the eat shield and O-rings and Refitting
equivalent using a short section of angle-iron, discard. New ones must be used for refitting 19 Prior to refitting the injectors, the three
a length of threaded rod, a cylindrical weight, (see illustrati n). Note: Seat recommend that O-rings, heat insulation washer and clip
and two locknuts. Weld/braze the rod to the each injector s identified to ensure refitting in must be renewed. Due to the high injection
its original toe tion. pressures, it is essential that the O-rings are
10 Remove t ie remaining injectors using the fitted without being twisted. Seat recommend
procedure de: cribed in paragraphs 7 to 9. the use of three special assembly sleeves to
11 Ifrequirec the injector wiring loom/rail can install the O-rings squarely. It may be prudent
be removed fr >m the cylinder head by undoing to entrust O-ring renewal to a Seat dealer or
the two retai ing nuts/bolts. To prevent the suitably-equipped injection specialist, rather
wiring conne tors fouling the cylinder head than risk subsequent leaks (see illustration).
casting as th assembly is withdrawn, insert
the connectc s into the storage slots in the
plastic wiring ail. Carefully push the assembly
to the rear, and out of the casting (see
illustrations)
1.9 litre enc nes
12 With refer nee to Chapter 2C, remove the
upper timing elt cover and camshaft cover.
13 Two rock* r arm shafts are fitted, each one
operating a p ir of injectors. Using a spanner
or socket, tur i the crankshaft pulley until the
rocker arms or injectors 1 and 2 are both
pointing upv ards, ie, the injector plunger
4.17 Set No 2 cylinder exhaust lobe as springs are ur der the least amount of tension, 4.19 Care must be used to ensure that the
shown for access to all four injector 14 Working n each of the two injectors in injector O-rings are fitted without being
clamping pads turn, slacken the locknut of the adjustment twisted
Fuel systems - diesel engine 4B»7

20 After renewing the O-rings, fit the heat
shield and secure it in place with the circlip
(see illustration).
21 Smear clean engine oil onto the O-rings,
and push the injector evenly down into the
cylinder head onto its stop. Make sure that the
injectors are refitted in their previously-noted
locations.
22 Fit the clamping block alongside the
injector, but only hand-tighten the new
retaining bolt at this stage.
23 It is essential that the injectors are fitted
at right-angles to the clamping block. In order
to achieve this, measure the distance from the
left-hand end face of the cylinder head to the
rounded section of the solenoid valve nut, but
note that there are two different types of nut
fitted (see illustrations). The dimensions (a)
are as follows:
1.4 litre engines
Old solenoid valve nut
Cylinder 1 = 244.2 ± 0.8 mm
Cylinder 2 = 156.2 ± 0.8 mm
_ Cylinder 3 = 64.8 ± 0.8 mm
New solenoid valve nut
Cylinder 1 = 245.0 ± 0.8 mm
Cylinder 2 = 157.0 ± 0.8 mm
Cylinder 3 = 65.6 ± 0.8 mm
1.9 litre engines
Old solenoid valve nut
Cylinder 1 = 332.2 ± 0.8 mm
Cylinder 2 = 244.2 ± 0.8 mm
Cylinder 3 = 152.8 ± 0.8 mm
Cylinder 4 - 64.8 ± 0.8 mm H32627

New solenoid valve nut
Cylinder 1 = 333.0 ± 0.8 mm 4.20 Unit injector (1.9 litre engine shown)
Cylinder 2 = 245.0 ± 0.8 mm 1 Bolt 3 Cylinder 5 Rocker arm 8 Unit injector 11 O-ring
Cylinder 3 = 153.6 ± 0.8 mm 2 Clamping head 6 Nut 9 O-ring 12 Heat shield
Cylinder 4 = 65.6 ± 0.8 mm block 4 Bolt 7 Adjuster 10 O-ring 13 Circlip
24 Once the injectors are aligned correctly,
tighten the clamping bolt to the specified in each spring cap to stop the ball-pins from tightening the retaining bolts as follows.
Stage one torque setting followed by the falling out. Starting from the inside out, hand-tighten the
Stage two angle tightening setting. Note: If 25 If removed, refit the injector wiring loom/ bolts. Again, from the inside out, tighten the
an injector has been renewed, it is essential rail to the cylinder head and tighten the two bolts to the Stage one torque setting. Finally,
that the adjustment screw, locknut of the retaining nuts/bolts. Reconnect the wiring to from the inside out, tighten the bolts to the
corresponding rocker and ball-pin are renewed each injector. Stage two angle tightening setting.
at the same time. The ball-pins simply pull out 26 Smear some grease (Seat No GOOD 100) 27 The following procedure is only necessary
of the injector spring cap. There is an O-ring onto the contact face of each rocker arm if an injector has been renewed. Attach a DTI
adjustment screw, and refit the rocker shaft (Dial Test Indicator) gauge to the cylinder
assembly to the camshaft bearing caps, head upper surface, and position the DTI

4.23a Distance (a) from end of cylinder head
to rounded section of injector (see text)
A Injector with early nut 4.23b Use a set square against the edge of 4.23c . . . and measure the distance to the
B Injector with late nut the injector . . . end of the cylinder head
4B«8 Fuel systems - diesel engine

7 Fuel tank -
removal and refitting
s
^
Note: Observe the precautions in Section 1
before working on any component in the fuel
system,
1 Refer to the procedures in Chapter 4A.
There is no activated charcoal breather pipe
to disconnect at the front of the tank - instead,
the fuel supply pipe (coloured black) should
?»fc^jife be disconnected.
4.27 Set up a DTI probe against the top of 8.2a Fidel tandem pump (arrowed)
the adjustment bolt
8 Tandem fuel pump -
probe against the top of the adjustment and withdraliv the intake manifold from the removal and refitting
screw (see illustration). Turn the crankshaft rear of the cylinder head. Remove the gaskets
until the rocker arm roller is on the highest and discard inem as new ones must be used
point of its corresponding camshaft lobe, and on refitting.
the adjustment screw is at its lowest. Once Refitting Removal
this position has been established, remove 1 Remove the engine top cover.
the DTI gauge, screw the adjustment screw 5 Refitting is a reversal of removal. Ensure
that the matimg surfaces are clean. Use new 2 Disconnect the brake servo vacuum
in until firm resistance is felt, and the injector pipe from the tandem fuel pump (see
spring cannot be compressed further. Turn gaskets and lighten the manifold bolts to the
specified torque. illustrations).
the adjustment screw anti-clockwise 225°, 3 Position a container beneath the fuel filter
and tighten the locknut to the specified 1.9 litre engines in the front right-hand corner of the engine
torque. compartment, then disconnect the supply
28 Refit the camshaft cover and upper timing Removal (white) and return (blue) hoses from the filter.
belt cover, as described in Chapter 2C. 6 Remove th engine top cover. Drain the fuel into the container.
29 Start the engine and check that it runs 7 Remove air intake ducting from the air 4 Disconnect the supply (white) hose from the
correctly. cleaner to th turbocharger with reference to tandem fuel pump.
Section 2. 5 Unscrew the four mounting bolts and
5 Intake manifold - |k 8 Remove th flap housing and EGR valve withdraw the pump from the cylinder head.
removal and refitting g^ from the int ;e manifold as described in Pull the pump upwards and disconnect the
Section 9. Nol that the engine rear lifting eye return (blue) hose, then remove the pump.
is bolted to th' valve housing. Note how the drive pinion locates in the end
9 Unscrew th nuts and withdraw the intake of the camshaft. Be prepared for fuel spillage.
1.4 litre engines manifold from studs on the cylinder head, There are no serviceable parts within the
Remove the c isket and discard it as a new tandem pump. If the pump is faulty, it must be
Removal one must be u; sd on refitting. renewed.
1 Remove the engine top cover. Refitting
2 Remove the air intake ducting from the air
Refitting
10 Refitting is-la reversal of removal, using 6 Reconnect the fuel return hose to the pump
cleaner to the turbocharger with reference to new manifold, EGR pipe and manifold flap
Section 2. and refit the pump to the cylinder head, using
assembly gaskats. new rubber seals, and ensuring that the pump
3 Remove the flap housing and EGR valve
from the intake manifold as described in pinion engages correctly with the drive slot in
Section 9. Note that the engine rear lifting eye 6 Fuel gai the camshaft (see illustration).
is bolted to the valve housing. sender/F ip unit - 7 Insert the pump retaining bolts, and tighten
4 Unscrew and remove the mounting nuts removal refitting them to the specified torque.
8 Reconnect the fuel supply hose and brake
Note: Observe •he precautions in Section 1 servo hose to the pump.
before working n any component in the fuel
system.
Warn/i g: Avoid direct skin contact
r|\ re/ - wear protective
cloth it and gloves when handling
fuel system co <ponents. Ensure that the
work area is w< '-ventilated to prevent the
build-up of fuel apour.
1 The fuel gaug sender unit is mounted on
the top of the 1 tank. Access is through
a hatch provid in the load space floor,
The unit protrud into the fuel tank, and its
8.2b Fuel tandem pump securing bolts removal involves xposing the contents of the
(arrowed) tank to the atmo here. 8.6 Ensure that the tandem pump pinion
1 Brake servo hose 3 Fuel return hose 2 Refer to the cedures in Chapter 4A for engages correctly with the drive slot in the
2 Fuel supply hose 4 Tandem pump removal and refit 9- camshaft
Fuel systems - diesel engine 4B»9

9 Reconnect the supply (white) hose to the
fuel filter.
10 Connect a hand vacuum pump to the
fuel filter return hose (marked blue). Operate
the vacuum pump until fuel comes out of the
return hose. This primes the tandem pump.
Reconnect the return hose to the fuel filter.
11 Refit the engine top cover.

9 Intake manifold |k
flap and valve - ^
removal and refitting ^
9.8 Unclip the intake manifold flap 9.9 . . . and disconnect the wiring plug
Flap housing and vacuum solenoid valve . . .
control element/electric motor Electrically-operated 10 Undo the retaining bolt and remove the
1 As diesel engines have a very high 3 Release the clamps and disconnect the air valve.
compression ratio, when the engine is turned intake ducting from the flap housing. 11 Refitting is a reversal of removal.
off, the pistons still compress a large quantity 4 Disconnect the flap housing wiring plug.
of air for a few revolutions and cause the 5 Undo the retaining bolts and detach the
engine unit to shudder. The intake manifold flap housing from the EGR valve. Renew the 10 Fuel cooler-
changeover flap is built into the EGR valve, O-ring seal. removal and refitting
and the flap is operated by a vacuum element, 6 Refitting is a reversal of removal.
or the flap is electrically-operated, with a
motor attached to the housing, and a separate
Changeover valve
EGR valve. When the ignition switch is turned Vacuum-operated only Removal
to the 'off' position, the engine management
7 The changeover valve controls the supply 1 On some models, a fuel cooler is fitted in
ECM-controlled valve actuates the flap, which
of vacuum to the changeover flap. The the return line to the fuel tank. It is attached to
shuts off the air supply to the cylinders. This
electrical supply to the valve is controlled the underbody. First, chock the front wheels,
allows the pistons to compress very little air,
by the engine management ECM. When the then jack up the rear of the car and support
and the engine runs softly to a halt. The flap
ignition key is turned to the 'off' position, the it on axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle
must open again approximately 3 seconds
ECM signals the valve, which allows vacuum support).
after switching off the ignition switch. On
to pull the flap shut. Approximately three 2 Unbolt the cover from the fuel cooler.
vacuum-operated flaps, the EGR (Exhaust
seconds later, the power supply to the valve 3 Place cloth rags around the cooler to soak
Gas Recirculation) valve is also incorporated
is cut, the vacuum to the actuator collapses, up spilt fuel, then disconnect the supply and
into the flap housing.
and the flap opens. return lines from it.
Vacuum-operated 8 The valve is located on the top of the air 4 Unscrew the mounting nuts and remove the
2 Removal and refitting of the flap housing is filter housing. Note the fitted positions and fuel cooler from under the car.
identical to that for the EGR valve in Chapter 4C. disconnect the vacuum pipes from the valve
Once removed, the flap control element can be (see illustration). Refitting
removed by disconnecting the arm from the flap 9 Disconnect the wiring plug from the valve 5 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but tighten
and unbolting the mounting bracket. (see illustration). the mounting nuts to the specified torque.
4B»10 Notes
4C»1

Chapter 4 Part C:
Emission control and exhaust systems
COntentS Section number Section number
Catalytic converter - general information and precautions 10 Exhaust system - component renewal 9
Crankcase emission system - general information 3 General information 1
Evaporative loss emission control system - information and Intercooler- general information, removal and refitting 7
component renewal 2 Turbocharger - general information, precautions, removal and
Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) system - component removal. . . . 4 refitting 5
Exhaust manifold - removal and refitting 8 Turbocharger boost pressure solenoid valve - removal and refitting 6

Degrees of difficulty
Easy, suitable for §^ Fairly easy, suitable Fairly difficult, ^> Difficult, suitable Very difficult,
novice with little |k for beginner with suitable for competent A^ for experienced DIY suitable for expert
experience ^ some experience DIY mechanic 3 mechanic DIY or professional

Specifications
Petrol engines
System type Single catalytic converter on 1.2 litre engines, two converters on 1.4 litre
engines. Twin oxygen sensors. EGR system fitted to all except 1.2 litre
engine code BME from 1172005 and 1.4 litre engine code BXW
Diesel engines
System type Single catalytic converter, EGR system. Turbocharger and intercooler
fitted to all engines. Particulate filter fitted to 1.9 litre engine code BMT
and 1.4 litre engine code BMS
Torque wrench settings Mm ibf ft
Petrol engines
EGR adapter to cylinder head 20 15
EGR connecting pipe to intermediate plate or intake manifold 10 7
EGR valve 20 15
Exhaust clamp nuts 25 18
Exhaust manifold nuts* 25 18
Exhaust manifold support bracket to engine (1.4 litre engines) 40 30
Exhaust mounting bracket bolts 25 18
Oxygen sensors 50 37
Diesel engines
EGR pipe nuts/bolts 25 18
EGR valve/flap housing-to-intake manifold 10 7
Exhaust clamp nuts 40 30
Exhaust manifold nuts* 25 18
Exhaust manifold/turbocharger-to-downpipe nuts* 25 18
Intercooler mounting bolts 8 6
Turbocharger oil feed union adapter 30 22
Turbocharger oil feed union nut 22 16
Turbocharger oil return pipe flange bolts 15 11
Turbocharger oil return union bolt 30 22
Turbocharger vacuum union bolt (1.4 litre engines) 15 11
Turbocharger-to-manifold bolts (1.4 litre engines)* 30 22
* Do not re-use
4O2 Emission control and exhaust syster

the oxygen sensor relay, to quickly bring Diesel engine systems
1 General information the sensors tip to its optimum operating All diesel-engined models have a crankcase
temperature. The sensor's tip is sensitive to emission control system and, in addition,
oxygen, amd sends a voltage signal to the are fitted with a catalytic converter. All diesel
ECM that varies according on the amount of engines are also fitted with an Exhaust Gas
oxygen in tne exhaust gas. If the intake air/fuel Recirculation (EGR) system to reduce exhaust
Petrol engine systems mixture is tjpo rich, the exhaust gases are low emissions.
All petrol models are designed to use in oxygen sp the sensor sends a low-voltage
unleaded petrol, and are controlled by engine signal, thai voltage rising as the mixture Crankcase emission control
management systems that are programmed to weakens and the amount of oxygen rises in To reduce the emission of unburned
give the best compromise between driveability, the exhaust gases. Peak conversion efficiency hydrocarbons from the crankcase into the
fuel consumption and exhaust emission of all major pollutants occurs if the intake air/ atmosphere, the engine is sealed and the
production. In addition, a number of systems fuel mixture is maintained at the chemically- blow-by gases and oil vapour are taken from
are fitted that help to minimise other harmful correct ratio for the complete combustion of inside the crankcase, through a wire mesh oil
emissions. A crankcase emission control petrol of 14.7 parts (by weight) of air to 1 part separator, into the intake tract to be burned by
system is fitted, which reduces the release of fuel (the stoichiometric ratio). The sensor the engine during normal combustion.
of pollutants from the engine's lubrication output voltage alters in a large step at this The gases are forced out of the crankcase
system, and one or two catalytic converters point, the EflIM using the signal change as a by the relatively higher crankcase pressure.
are fitted to reduce exhaust gas pollutant. An reference paint and correcting the intake air/ All diesel engines have a pressure-regulating
evaporative loss emission control system is fuel mixture accordingly by altering the fuel valve on the camshaft cover, to control the
fitted which reduces the release of gaseous injector pulsa width. flow of gases from the crankcase.
hydrocarbons from the fuel tank. An ExhaJJst Gas Recirculation (EGR) Exhaust emission control
Crankcase emission control system is a BO fitted to most models (see An oxidation catalyst (catalytic converter)
To reduce the emission of unburned