#thebakefeed

hee Southern Issue
h Issue

FROM SCRATCH
TM

74
5 Ways with
Hummingbird Cake
ESSENTIAL SOUTHERN RECIPES

[we take the classic
and twist it up!]

Bake Better
Biscuits

HUMMINGBIRD BUNDT CAKE
p. 87

Game
Changing
Icebox Pies
MAY/JUNE 2018 VOLUME 4, ISSUE 3

$12.99US $15.99CAN
06 FEATURING
Praline Pecan Babka
Cold-Oven Pound Cake
74470 01695
0 3
DISPLAY UNTIL JULY 23, 2018
The Complete A to Z of Southern Baking

FROM SCRATCH
TM

ofering corny updates on madeleines. upside-down cake. we pay tribute to the venerable desserts. cobbler. from mini meringue lemon loaves to a 15 Retro Redo: Apple Pie The all-American treasure gets a deep-fried black-and-white marble Bundt Southern update 39 PEACHY QUEEN The blushing stone fruit takes the starring role in 19 Bakery Profile: The Art of Southern Tradition In the heart of literary and collegiate gem Oxford. by the Book This collection of Southern cookbooks will help you 29 POUND FOR POUND Revisit the decadent golden oldie with cookbook master the many facets of Deep South baking author Ben Mims as he serves up five shining pound cake remixes. and more 3 bake from scratch . ingredients that have helped shape the Southern spoon bread.table of contents 13 On the Shelf: Southern. Bottletree Bakery provides worldly—yet still distinctly Southern—pastry and bread 49 SOUTHERN A TO Z 25 From the Pantry: Cornmeal We get into the nitty-gritty behind this essential From Apple Stack Cake to Zesty Lemon Bars. the iconic base of cornbread. and Southern ingredient. and hush puppies baking community 63 PRAISE THE MAIZE Star Southern chef Steven Satterfield dishes his favorite ways to bake with the golden-eared crop. jumbo muins. and a creamy. triple-layer coconut cake Mississippi. bakers.

black bottom peanut butter. and to the generous pour of bourbon in its fruity filling triple-chocolate twists 111 Test Kitchen Technique: Cutting In Butter 81 5 WAYS WITH HUMMINGBIRD The intersection between tropical vibrancy and To create perfect flaky layers in your baking. we gave Hummingbird Cake a makeover in loaf cake. and clear visuals to help guide you along the way 101 10 SOUTHERN BAKERS YOU SHOULD KNOW Our comprehensive list of Southern baking mavens includes a smooth-talking podcaster. a self-made biscuit queen. giving them the annals of Southern history thanks in no small part crème brûlée.71 THE BIG CHILL Southern baker and blogger Kate Wood pumps up 107 Origin of a Classic: Lane Cake The grand layer cake of lore has earned its place in the volume on classic icebox pies. Drop. tested techniques. SOUTHERN BISCUITS Take on Angel. and a brother-sister team that specializes in wood-fired magic may | june 2018 4 . . study our in-depth look into the three main methods of cutting in butter soul-warming Southern comfort. and Bundt form 113 Back Page Babka: Praline Pecan Babka A favorite New Orleans confection becomes the inspiration for our caramel-glazed and brown 89 THE ESSENTIAL . and Roll-Out Biscuits with our sugar-swirled babka master recipes. . cookie bar.

VA. Issue 3 EDITORIAL EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Brian Hart Hofman EDITOR AT L ARGE Jennifer V. Hofman PRESIDENT/CCO Brian Hart Hofman EVP/CFO Mary P. IA 51593 ©2018 Hoffman Media. IN. and additional mailing offices. please call (888) 411-8995. MS] Liane Lane [AR. Subscription Rates: For the United States. AL 35243 P. Vanessa Rocchio. Periodicals postage pending in Birmingham. IA 51593 Phone: (205) 995-8860 Phone: (888) 647-7304 Email: BFScustserv@cdsfulillment. All rights reserved in all countries. NE. IA. CO.O. Mary Beth Jones.95 per year. KS.com bakefromscratch@hofmanmedia. MN. 1900 International Park Drive. MD] Hagan Media/Katie Hagan [AL. Jade Sinacori. The cover and contents of Bake from Scratch are fully protected by copyright and cannot be reproduced in any manner without prior written permission. Marcy Black Simpson Anita Simpson Spain PHOTOGRAPHERS RECIPE TESTER Jim Bathie. Printed in the USA. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to Bake from Scratch. NM. Cummings VP/CULINARY & CUSTOM CONTENT EVP/OPERATIONS & MANUFACTURING Brooke Michael Bell Greg Baugh VP/SHELTER CONTENT Cindy Smith Cooper VP/DIGITAL MEDIA Jon Adamson VP/ADMINISTRATION Lynn Lee Terry EDITORIAL & ADVERTISING OFFICE SUBSCRIPTIONS & CUSTOMER SERVICE 1900 International Park Drive. CHAIRMAN OF THE BOARD/CEO Phyllis Hofman DePiano PRESIDENT/COO Eric W. Kim Chiselko. MO. Harlan. Alabama. $39. WI] DIRECT RESPONSE Hagan Media/Katie Hagan MARKETING COORDINATOR Megan McIllwain ADVERTISING PRODUCTION REPRESENTATIVE Kimberly Lewis GRAPHIC DESIGNER Rachel Collins For assistance with advertising. add $20 elsewhere. DC. Angie Mosier Delisa McDaniel DIGITAL IMAGING SPECIALIST Clark Densmore D I G I TA L M E D I A A D M I N I S T R AT I V E MARKETING DIRECTOR Tricia Wagner Williams HUMAN RESOURCES DIRECTOR Judy Brown Lazenby ASSISTANT ONLINE EDITOR Emily Esleck IT DIRECTOR Matthew Scott Holt DIGITAL DESIGNER Stephanie Lambert DEALER PROGRAM MANAGER Janice Ritter ADMINISTRATIVE ASSISTANT/EDITORIAL Morgan Crawford I N T E G R AT E D M A R K E T I N G S O LU T I O N S ACCOUNT DIRECTORS Claire Bucalos [NC. Kathleen Kanen. Cole GROUP CREATIVE DIRECTOR ASSOCIATE EDITOR Sophia Jones Deanna Rippy Gardner ASSISTANT EDITOR Kyle Grace Mills ART DIRECTOR Kelly Redding RECIPE EDITOR Fran Jensen EDITORIAL ASSISTANT Emmy Carswell ST YLISTS SENIOR COPY EDITOR Rhonda Lee Lother Sidney Bragiel. Suite 50. Melissa Gray. OK. LLC.O. TX] Rhapsodic Media/Kathy Burke [IL. LLC. add $10 for postage in Canada. Single issue $12. Suite 50 Bake from Scratch Birmingham. 6 issues. P.99 available at newstands and bookstores. Stephen DeVries.com Bake from Scratch ISSN 2472-0089 is published bimonthly by Hoffman Media. FROM SCRATCH TM may | june 2018 Volume 4. OH. Birmingham. Box 6021. WV. SC] Katie Guasco [LA. Elizabeth Stringer SENIOR PHOTOGRAPHERS ASSISTANT FOOD ST YLIST/RECIPE DEVELOPER John O’Hagan. William Dickey. . Box 6021. AL 35243. GA. Seeley FOOD ST YLISTS/RECIPE DEVELOPERS CREATIVE DIRECTOR/PHOTOGRAPHY Mac Jamieson Laura Crandall. COPY EDITOR Meg Lundberg Beth K. FL] Kathy Gross [FL. Harlan. Stephanie Welbourne Steele Ashley Jones ASSISTANT PHOTOGRAPHER Caroline Smith CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS SENIOR DIGITAL IMAGING SPECIALIST Erin Austen Abbott.

.

From the essential hot cross buns and coffee cakes to grilled South African breads and seasonal recipes for baking with strawberries. plums. and more. ƨƫƝƞƫ ƭƨƝƚƲž 3 EASY WAYS TO ORDER EntHr Rr PHntiRn discRXnt cRdH BFSB18C HRffPan MHdia StRrH P. IA 51593 800-361-8059 HOFFMANMEDIASTORE.O. high-quality cookbook is the go-to resource for those looking to bake artisanal goods at home. rhubarb. BRx 630 • HarOan. this hardcover.COM/BAKEFROMSCRATCH . New Book! volume 2 FROM SCRATCH TM ARTISAN RECIPES FOR THE HOME BAKER This collection of recipes from the second year of Bake from Scratch magazine features endless inspiration for home bakers.

Mississippi. And before you even have to ask: Yes. Hummingbird Bundt Cake. We are based in Birmingham. celebrating tradition. One of my baking flavor obsessions is Hummingbird. there is a major biscuit feature in this issue (page 89). I’m also very excited to include recipe features from three talented Southern bakers.WELCOME TO THE SOUTHERN from the editor BAKING ISSUE. and the wonderful memories of learning to bake them with my mom come through with each steaming bite (because they must be eaten hot from the oven!). We took it even further with five crave-worthy iterations (page 81). and lots of spice. ingenuity in all the most delicious ways. and White Lily self-rising flour. and for daily baking inspiration. in her kitchen. Y’ALL! Bake from Scratch @thebakefeed Brian Hart Hoffman @thebakefeed Editor-in-Chief may | june 2018 8 . It’s not just our Southern accents that make the South so unique. Kate Wood helps temper the summer heat with her icebox treats. using the biscuit bowl (photographed) because that bowl is the visual indicator of a recipe that isn’t written down. And while they aren’t like any other biscuit (chock-full of butter). this always-moist. and Steven Satterfield cranks things up with fun and creative ways to bake with corn. Traditionally filled with banana. Alabama. For me. pecan. I couldn’t recreate “Mom’s Biscuits. buttermilk. baking began with biscuits. Happy baking. including our cover star.com epitomizes Southern baking—full and follow us of flavor. Ben Mims is back with the most epic pound cake recipes (including my favorite. flavor-rich sweet has earned its place in the Southern cake hall of fame. it’s the incredible people who are pushing culinary Mom and I still love baking together! boundaries in innovative ways that have reinvigorated Southern food culture! From defining the A to Z of Southern baking to an exploration of my favorite bakery in Oxford. pineapple.” consisting of three ingredients: vegetable oil. and welcome to the home of Bake from Scratch magazine. and while our mission is to feature the global baking community. Without that cherished Pyrex bowl. it is finally time to showcase the amazing flavors and traditions that make Southern baking so exceptional. Black-and-White Chocolate Marble Pound Cake on page 36). they are our family’s recipe. this issue Visit bakefromscratch. With my mom.

and a little cornmeal make all kinds of magic in the oven. where he serves as the small-town spotlight editor.” Keia Mastrianni Keia Mastrianni is a writer and oral historian based in western North Carolina. son. warm out of the oven. In 2017. with her husband. Louis. 9 bake from scratch . She is also the passionate baker behind the small-batch pie endeavor Milk Glass Pie. Favorite Southern Dessert: “Peach cobbler. Steven was named Best Chef: Southeast by the James Beard Foundation. an award-winning. Her work can be found in such publications as Esquire and Bon Appétit. Her work focuses on foodways and food culture through the lens of people and regional ingredients. Keia Steven She published her first book. butter. Mississippi. to be published by UNC Press in spring 2019. Favorite Southern Dessert: “When I moved to the South 10 years ago. I fell in love with bread pudding—especially when topped with a good whiskey sauce. How to Make It: 25 Makers Share the Secrets to Building a Creative Business. Favorite Southern Dessert: “An old-fashioned chess pie. in the spring of 2017 and is currently at work on her second. Egg. Last year. he canoed from St. and four animals. sugar.contributors Boyce Erin Boyce Upholt Boyce Upholt is a freelance writer based in the Mississippi Delta. It always makes me think of summer. North Carolina. seasonally driven restaurant located in Atlanta’s Westside neighborhood.” Erin Austen Abbott Erin Austen Abbott is a freelance writer and photographer.” Steven Satterfield Steven Satterfield is the executive chef and co-owner of Miller Union. She recently coauthored a cookbook with a chef from Angie Kate Charlotte. He was named a 2016 Writer of the Year by the International Regional Magazine Association for his travel and culture writing for Mississippi Magazine. She is the deputy editor for literary farm journal Crop Stories. with homemade ice cream. His dedication to seasonal cooking and his unwavering support for local farmers is the driving philosophy behind his restaurant and everything he does. Missouri. to the Gulf of Mexico as part of his research for a book about the Mississippi River. Erin lives in Water Valley.

À la mode is non-negotiable.com. sugarees. where she Little Lemon Meringue Hummingbird Pie 88 and her husband are raising two toddler-size taste Pound Cakes 37 MISCELLANEOUS Peach & Basil Cobbler 45 Mississippi Mud Cake 56 Beignets 51 Peach Blackberry Bourbon testers. laughing Peach Pound Cake 45 Bourbon Simple Syrup 110 Crostata 47 at yourself. Faber. She has photographed cookbooks for Spiced Cookie Crust 86 Zesty Lemon Bars 62 Eric Ripert. She works anywhere the road and the food Roll-Out Biscuits 94 Black Cocoa Glaze 36 Black Bottom Peanut Sweet Corn. AND Samuelsson. PIES. Cynthia Wong Page 106 Photo by Kate Thompson. Peach. and sweet potato are three of my favorites. and the magic that happens when good Peach Upside-Down Dulce de Leche 52 Pecan Piecrust 88 friends share a meal. a 2017 Saveur Hummingbird Bundt Sorghum Streusel 37 Fried Apple Hand Pies 17 Blog Award-winning site. Scratch Bakery photo by Page 104 Charles Samuels. Cake photo by Amanda Bakery. y’all!). and is currently at work on a new book with Marcus BREAD Angel Biscuits 96 FROSTINGS.” Upside-Down Cake 67 Soulè 67 Travis Milton’s Apple Stack Sweet Corn Madeleines 70 Cake 50 Ultimate Southern Cream Cheese Pound Cake 31 resources Southern A to Z Page 57 Page 103 Page 105 Page 52 Photo of ‘Nana Puddin’ by Squire Fox. Crust 70 STYLING BY MARY BETH JONES Georgia.com. Kate is a new transplant Cake 87 Vanilla Bean Glaze 36 Graham Cracker-Pecan Lane Cake 110 Vanilla Glaze 88 Crust 79 to LA (that’s Lower Alabama. Hill. Jalapeño Scones 69 Buttermilk Whipped Bourbon-Pineapple Pound Sweet Cornbread 70 Cream 88 Tart 38 Favorite Southern Dessert: “Coconut cake. Cake 45 Lane Cake Filling 110 Piecrust Dough 16 Roasted Pecan Pound Cake Peach Simple Syrup 48 Triple Chocolate Pie 79 with Sorghum Streusel 37 Pecan Pralines 58 Vanilla-Coconut Crust 78 Favorite Southern Dessert: “Absolutely any Tomato Caramel Cornmeal Sweet Corn and Gruyère Vinegar Pie 61 variety of chess pie. and Virginia Willis. Cheddar. Lisa White photography by Andrea Behrends. I Caramel Pecan Glaze 113 Brûléed Key Lime Pies 78 CAKES Chocolate Glaze 56 Chocolate Bourbon Pecan love the pillow-like icing covered in shaggy Black-And-White Cream Cheese Frosting 87 Tassies 60 grated coconut. PASTRIES. Angie is a former professional baker Drop Biscuits 92 GARNISHES.Favorite Southern Dessert: “I love any kind of pie—especially a fruit pie in a flaky crust. photography by Andrew Cebulka.” Chocolate Marble Pound Cream Cheese Icing 87 Chocolate Crust 79 Cake with Vanilla Bean and Icing 54 Coconut Tassies 60 Black Cocoa Glazes 36 Lane Cake Frosting 110 Lemon Chess Tassies 60 Kate Wood Classic Hummingbird Lemon Syrup 38 Cream Cheese Pastry Kate Wood is the self-taught baker. Kolache Factory. Photo of Evrim and Evin Dogu by Roman Cho. may | june 2018 10 . writer. AND TARTS and wedding cake designer who still makes an Hummingbird Loaf 87 GLAZES Apple Pie 16 Peach and Blueberry Almond Streusel 48 Banana Coconut Cream occasional cake but prefers to let others do the Cornmeal Muins 48 American Buttercream 48 Pie 78 baking so she can enjoy photographing and eating Praline Pecan Babka 113 Apple Butter 50 Berries and Cream Pie 79 them. Carla Tomasko photography by Photo of Amanda Faber by Dasha Caramel cake courtesy Sugaree’s Andrew Thomas Lee. John T. Edge. Photo of Patricia Barnes by Vicki Popwell. Bundt Cake BARS AND COOKIES page 87 And if it comes in fried pie form. even better!” Hummingbird Cookie PHOTOGRAPHY BY Bars 86 STEPHEN DEVRIES RECIPE DEVELOPMENT AND Lemon Chess Pie Bars with Angie Mosier Cornbread-Graham FOOD STYLING BY NANCY HUGHES Angie Mosier is a photographer located in Atlanta. Carrie Morey Crawford. 10 Southern Bakers to Know Page 55 Justin Burke-Samson photography Page 101-102 Assorted fruit kolaches courtesy by Jamey Price. kolachefactory. recipe index on the cover Hummingbird apple. and Cake 87 Pecan-Oat Streusel 88 Dough 60 Coconut Peach Cake 47 Sautéed Apples 50 Crostata Dough 47 photographer behind Wood and Spoon. Photo of Phoebe Lawless by Lewis by John T. Photo of Edna Page 59 photography by Jason Stemple. & Buttermilk Glaze 45 Butter Icebox Pie 80 take her. Lisa Gotwals. She believes in thank-you notes.

.

.

located in Savannah. by Cheryl Day and Griffith Day Nancie McDermott’s Southern Cakes offers fascinating tidbits about The retro-chic Back in the Day Bakery. from the thick. As much as it looks to the past. coconut cakes featured in the cookbook and taken from Nancie’s personal recipe box. the storied classics as well as flawless recipes for everything from the has been a Southern favorite for the past 15 years. owners Cheryl and Griffith Day’s baking. WE ROUNDED UP FIVE SUCH TREASURES THAT SHOWCASE ALL THE GLORIES OF SOUTHERN BAKING’S PAST AND ITS PROMISING FUTURE. 13 bake from scratch . 2007) by Nancie McDermott (Artisan. 2012) Exploring Southern baking exclusively through the prism of cake. their ode to a Southern classic that is completely scratch-made.on the shelf SOUTHERN. TRIED-AND-TRUE CLASSIC: ’Nana Puddin’. THE BACK IN THE DAY BAKERY SOUTHERN CAKES COOKBOOK (Chronicle Books. in large part based venerable Hummingbird and Doberge Cakes to the simple and iconic on the charming mix of nostalgia and modern whimsy showcased in Coconut and Caramel Cakes. silky pudding to the crisp broken shortbread cookie layers. one of seven of baking: sparkling innovation that doesn’t sacrifice tradition. Georgia. by the book A GREAT SOUTHERN COOKBOOK SHOULD OFFER MORE THAN JUST RECIPES—IT SHOULD GIVE YOU A LITTLE SLICE OF THE SOUTHERN SOUL. this book is also a bright illustration of the new Southern form TRIED-AND-TRUE CLASSIC: Fresh Coconut Cake.

comfort baking from one of the best in the business. 2011) by Alisa Huntsman TRIED-AND-TRUE CLASSIC: Spicy Devil’s Food Cake. 1950) home. this selection of “receipts” is the ultimate guide THE CHURCH LADIES’ DIVINE DESSERTS to Lowcountry desserts and baking. From the antiquated beaten biscuit to the famous Lady Baltimore Cake. 2003) glimpse of Gullah language and flavor. custardy America’s oldest in-print Junior League cookbook is a selective slice dessert that calls for high-quality local honey worthy of this rich pie. The Church Ladies’ Divine Desserts is an intimate look at the the love child between an apple crisp and a nutty pecan pie.k.a. a literal hot take Since 1951.. Loveless Cafe has acted as a soul food and barbecue mecca on the chocolate Southern favorite. is an exercise in down. Ozark Pudding. but their outstanding biscuits and desserts have pushed them over the edge into national treasure status. a. food culture. enrobed in rich caramel frosting. (Artisan. with a particularly cherished (HP Books. • sweet cuisine born of the African American church-going experience. edited by Mary Vereen Huguenin and Anne Montague Stoney TRIED-AND-TRUE CLASSIC: Honey Chess Pie. Tennessee. Inc. South Carolina. (The Junior League of Charleston. . Their CHARLESTON RECEIPTS cookbook.DESSERTS FROM THE FAMOUS With recipes gathered from the personal collections of famed “church ladies” from around the South. this book illuminates the LOVELESS CAFE power baking has had on building communities and congregations. in Nashville. of Southern cuisine: 300 years of table fare from Charleston. Desserts from the Famous Loveless Cafe. by Brenda Rhodes Miller Highlighting a unique and often overlooked intersection of Southern TRIED-AND-TRUE CLASSIC: Huguenot Torte. a creamy.

GIVING IT A DOUBLE DOSE OF SOUTHERN SWEETNESS. AS TOLD TO SOPHIA JONES REDO RECIPE AND FOOD STYLING BY ELIZABETH STRINGER .retro redo APPLE PIE A KENTUCKY READER REVEALS WHY ONE SPECIAL PIE SERVED AS THE GRAND FINALE TO HER SUMMERS SPENT IN THE FOOTHILLS OF THE BLUE RIDGE MOUNTAINS. WE REVITALIZE THE CL ASSIC AMERICAN RECIPE.

tossing to coat. and we’d 5. top of the spiced apple slices to form a flawless lattice. In the work bowl of a food processor. Lexington. On a lightly floured surface. Using a sharp knife or a fluted pastry wheel. steady stream until a dough forms. roll would tap her foot in tune to the music as she used two knives to cut the half of dough to ⅛-inch thickness. Fold edges under.I still dream of those summers in Virginia. and crimp as desired. reminding ½ inch beyond edge of plate. water. Bake until crust is golden brown and apples are tender. The combination of spiced apple filling and buttery double crust barefoot in the soft grass of the apple orchard. In a large bowl.5 grams) kosher salt ¾ cup (170 grams) cold unsalted butter. as soon as school got out. Trim excess dough to turns rolling out the dough with her sturdy maple rolling pin. pressing into bottom and up sides. Kentucky. the dusk. Aunt Bess taught me many ⅓ cup (67 grams) granulated sugar valuable skills. On a lightly floured surface. Transfer to a 9-inch pie butter into the flour. Remember. whisk together sugars. 6. APPLE PIE my mother sent us by train from our hometown in Lexington. and shape each half into a disk. loosely covering with foil after 30 minutes of baking to prevent excess browning. Trim strips to ½ inch beyond edge of plate. Add cold butter. Yet her lessons in how to bake delectable. Emily. With processor running. tender apple pie ⅓ cup (73 grams) firmly packed light brown sugar are what I’m grateful for most. Makes 1 (9-inch) pie Emily and I spent the entire ride eagerly planning our adventures for There are few things more Southern than a from-scratch slice of the months ahead—midday dips in the creek. —Ethel Davis. Emily and I would peer over the kitchen spice. Emily and 6 (1-inch-wide) strips. After the golden 4. and we’d spend the afternoon making pie. and salt. cubed ¾ cup (180 grams) ice water 1. Every June. PIECRUST DOUGH Makes 1 (9-inch) double crust 4 cups (500 grams) all-purpose flour ½ cup (100 grams) granulated sugar ½ teaspoon (1.” she’d tell us as she retrieved the butter from the 2. cut churned vanilla ice cream. Preheat oven to 375°F (190°C). we’d enjoy it with a hearty scoop of home. a quaint town in central Virginia THE ORIGINAL between Roanoke and Lynchburg. and pulse until mixture is crumbly. 3. and—our favorite—baking is as close to simple perfection as a dessert can get. Aunt Bess toted the apples back to the house in the two deep 1 tablespoon (15 grams) water pockets of her timeworn apron. Growing up. 1. Gently rocking on the porch swing. Divide dough in half. pulse until combined. cornstarch. She’d help guide Emily’s and my hands as we took plate. . In a small bowl. add ¾ cup (180 grams) ice water in a slow. apple pie us to maintain a steady pressure. Arrange strips in a lattice design on top I sitting on either side of Aunt Bess. Brush dough with egg wash. my little sister Emily and I would spend the break visiting our great aunt Bess on her farm just outside of Bedford. Kentucky 50 minutes to 1 hour. picking apples from the (about 2½ pounds) outer limbs on the southern side of the trees—those tend to ripen the 1 tablespoon (15 grams) fresh lemon juice 1 large egg (50 grams) fastest. about 15 minutes. counter in awe as she showed us how to arrange the strips of dough on Spoon apple mixture into prepared crust. Add apples and lemon juice. cold is key. sessions with Aunt Bess. sugar. 4 cups (670 grams) sliced Gala or Fuji apples and I would head to the orchard in the morning. and Aunt Bess softened. baked apple pie. From the proper way to set a table and write a thank-you Piecrust Dough (recipe follows) note to how to bait a hook and saddle a horse. We’d make biscuits and berry cobblers. Let Piecrust Dough stand at room temperature until slightly icebox. place flour. 2. thickness. the apples were just ripe ¼ teaspoon kosher salt enough to pick before the oicial harvest season began. we’d watch for fireflies emerging in of filling. We’d put her favorite Nat King Cole record on. games of hide-and-seek pie. Aunt Bess. roll remaining dough to ⅛-inch pie cooled in the windowsill. and refrigerate for at least 30 minutes or overnight. and salt. whisk together egg and 1 tablespoon (15 grams) gently clink our spoons together before taking the first bite. “Here’s to my favorite bakers. 3 tablespoons (24 grams) cornstarch 1 teaspoon (2 grams) apple pie spice As autumn crept in and the air turned crisp. but the cold ingredients and limited handling of the dough create the best treat didn’t come until the end of summer in late August when we flakiest crust. “Remember.” Aunt Bess would say. Wrap tightly in plastic wrap.

• 17 bake from scratch . apple pie spice. ESPECIALLY WHEN IT’S A RECIPE. ⅓ cup (73 grams) firmly packed light brown is thickened. fry hand pies for sugar 10 minutes. Brush edges of 1 large egg (50 grams) dough with egg wash. and immediately toss in 1 teaspoon (3 grams) apple pie spice until slightly softened.790 grams) peanut oil. rerolling scraps only once. Visit bakefromscratch. Have an heirloom recipe you want to see updated? In every issue. and lemon juice. HERE’S OUR UPDATE. whisk together egg and Makes about 20 Piecrust Dough (recipe on page 16) 1 tablespoon (15 grams) water. whisk together cinnamon and divided medium heat until apples are tender and filling remaining 1 cup (200 grams) granulated sugar. Place 2 teaspoons filling It is a truth universally acknowledged in the Deep 1 tablespoon (15 grams) water in center of each round. ETHEL ASKED US TO GIVE HER GREAT AUNT’S GO-TO RECIPE A 21ST-CENTURY TWIRL-UP. 5 to 7 minutes until golden brown. Apple pie is no 1 gallon (3. (67 grams) granulated sugar. heat oil over medium-high crust by deep-frying them. Add apples 360°F (182°C). 4 cups (525 grams) diced peeled Gala or thickness.com/wanted-retro-recipes for entry details. tossing to coat. and salt. Cook over 5. In a large skillet. Working in batches. Pick up and pinch edges to was good about the original and add a hefty dose seal. whisk together ⅓ cup 4. FRIED APPLE HAND PIES 1 tablespoon (15 grams) fresh lemon juice 3. we’re revamping one lucky reader’s beloved vintage recipe. roll half of dough to ⅛-inch rack.com. about 20 minutes. 1⅓ cups (267 grams) granulated sugar. THE REDO WE LOVE A SOUTHERN HEIRLOOM. gently pressing in exception. Serve warm. Let drain on prepared ¼ teaspoon kosher salt lightly floured surface. South: Everything is better fried. heat until a deep-fry thermometer registers cornstarch. Let cool for 6. In a large stockpot. crunchy (and cinnamon sugar-coated) 1. Using a 4½-inch round cutter. In a small bowl. On a cinnamon sugar mixture. Email submissions to bakefromscratch@hofmanmedia. of crispy. cut Fuji apples (about 2½ pounds) dough. In a small bowl. brown sugar. about 15 minutes. Place paper towels on a wire rack. Fold dough over filling. THOUGH NOTHING BEATS THE CL ASSIC. Carefully 3 tablespoons (24 grams) cornstarch 2. for frying Crimp from center to edges. These half-moon pastries take all that 1 tablespoon (6 grams) ground cinnamon any filling as you go. Freeze for 20 minutes. Let Piecrust Dough stand at room temperature remove from hot oil.

may | june 2018 18 .

bakery pro²le THE ART OF SOUTHERN TRADITION .

. this place is modern. has a romantic turn-of- the-last-century feel. at least. restaurants sell wood-fired pizzas and rabbit confit.FOR MORE THAN TWO DECADES. Its success will be unsurprising to any visitor. MISSISSIPPI. IT’S NOT GOING ANYWHERE. BY BOYCE UPHOLT PHOTOGRAPHY BY ERIN AUSTEN ABBOTT O xford. Oxford is a must-stop road-trip food town. a cascade of tomato- and-basil focaccia streams over its top. AND WITH CYNTHIA GERLACH’S SCRATCH- MADE PASTRY DRAWING CROWDS DAILY. Bottletree Bakery has been a mainstay. gleaming with sugar crystals. Through that food scene’s three-decade growth. Mississippi. The glass case that greets you is crammed with scones. On a courthouse square once lined with groceries and cafés. with its white-columned. Crusty loaves of sourdough and ciabatta rest in baskets above the cashier. Italianate courthouse. THE FOLK ART-FILLED BOTTLETREE BAKERY HAS BEEN ESSENTIAL TO THE OFFBEAT CHARM OF OXFORD. But in terms of food. Even the local diner has Asian- fusion red-beans-and-rice egg rolls.

Legendary Southern writers like Barry Hannah and Larry Brown gave this small city a literary glow. bite in and the flavors are leavened by a slight twist of tartness and that perfect chewy give. What Oxford lacked. more than 30 years ago to attend the University of Mississippi. City Grocery. Cynthia. though. She figured she’d study physics—and then she took a folklore class. at least not by birth. fresh off a master’s degree in Southern Studies. was a place where that community could drink good coffee and eat fresh- baked bread. the restaurant that launched Oxford’s culinary reputation. Hold a loaf of her sourdough and you’re wrapped in a warm aura of garlic and rosemary. Cult bands from the area were at their beginnings. drawn from the collection of owner and (trained folklorist) Cynthia Gerlach. some bristly bearded hipster—sipping coffee and flipping through newspapers. The walls riot with colors—almost every surface is covered with folk art. early ’90s years have become the stuff of local legend. “I became Oxford-ized. it’s apparent that it worked.) Cynthia’s parents were devoted at-home bakers and had helped her master muffins and scones. as she prepared to open. decided she could make a space for them in Oxford. opened in 1992. To these continental flavors. It’s the kind of small-town scene you could have seen in any decade over the past century. Cynthia is not a Southerner. Twenty-three years later. Oregon. “That changed everything.” she says. fine-tuning her French pastry (all her pastries are made with croissant or brioche doughs) and breads. 21 bake from scratch . (She still uses the coolers that once held flower arrangements. Bottletree adds a distinctly Southern charm. she spent hours self-training in the kitchen. She arrived in Oxford from Portland. diners sit—some Southern debonair. In 1995. who had always stockpiled such goodies on trips home to Oregon. As a 25-year- old.” Those late ’80s. Cynthia found an empty space—a former flower shop—and converted it into a bakery. Around a hodgepodge of tables and along the 16-foot wood-topped counter that runs down the right wall.

go there Bottletree Bakery 923 Van Buren Ave. Oxford.236.com/bottletreebakery .5000 www. Mississippi 662.facebook.

.

“You’d know you brioche-stuffed folk art extension” of the Southern Studies program where were safe when you heard it rattle because that was the spirits caught inside she got her degree. It’s also a kind of public living room. he sat at the counter. in size. Cynthia is proud to represent the legendary old Oxford days. when the espresso machine will linger over coffee and rearrange tables.” Cynthia explains. One regular. gifted Cynthia a copy of the new Mississippi In the 23 years since Bottletree Bakery opened. She also celebrates the South’s long folk traditions. name has yielded much luck. On a recent morning. an out-of-town visitor corner of the bakery. another generation might BonTon Café. Sometimes—say. Oxford has more than doubled Encyclopedia. grabbing Instagram shots: an almond-flecked Danish oozing with the square.The bakery’s name is a reference to an African American tradition in which All these touches have created what Cynthia calls “a breathing food-coffee- blue milk-of-magnesia bottles were hung on tree branches. A friend found the abandoned restaurant while rambling in the do the same. which he coauthored. and not just through the art. the owner flipped through the text. Cynthia hopes diners the bottles. honey cream. She designed ceiling panels to mimic the ornate tin roofs of old Southern It’s quite likely those students’ parents sat on the same stools. eating the pastries restaurants. • Mississippi Delta. If the good luck holds. Many of the regulars are faculty shorts out in the middle of a busy week—Cynthia doubts that the bakery’s and graduates of that program. The Bottletree tradition is one that deserves to live on. In one sharing coffee with colleagues as. It’s been a Bottletree icon since the bakery opened. college students held out cell walked it in himself after the city bought his location around the corner. a historian. on phones. she’s hung a sign from a beloved grocery. a few seats over. But longevity proves otherwise. a pile of strawberry slices emerging from a petite loaf of pillowy brioche dusted in sugar. may | june 2018 24 . the made from the same recipes. The seafoam-green counter is a relic from a 1940s-era eatery. Along the counter.

VERVE. AND FLAVOR TO YOUR BAKED GOODS BY KEIA MASTRIANNI .from the pantry THIS SOUTHERN STAPLE ADDS TEXTURE.

” Cornmeal is the result of grinding dried corn kernels into fresh meal. cornmeal has fortified body and soul. the very nature of its production generated community. Hill wrote in The Progressive Farmer’s Southern Cookbook (1961). grist mills dotted the landscape and served doubly as a place to grind homegrown grain and as a gathering place. and yellow corn in a mortar with a mighty pestle. the grower. and modern cornmeal––convenient. Derived from the very essence of sustenance. n the hallowed pantry of Southern ingredients. Before the advent of the mill. For bakers. subtle nuances in flavor and color were indicative of the region in which the corn was grown and. and readily available––lined the shelves. In place of stone-ground mills. those with superior flavor and jewel-toned kernels. were automated steel rollers. Southerners) since the first corn seed sprouted thousands of years ago. red. These days. In a cookie scented with nutmeg. which preserved the germ and nutrient value of corn. this is a boon—to stud a piecrust with the crimson flecks of Jimmy Red corn or bake a cake with golden antebellum meal from Anson Mills. American Indians shared the work of processing corn into meal. industrialization all but eliminated those subtleties and a more homogenous product emerged. consistent. . cornmeal is the versatile ingredient that has sustained native peoples (and. it adds depth and heft to the elemental filling. “To try to cook without cornmeal in the South is a lost cause. which stripped the corn of its germ and nearly all of its nutrients. Since its beginnings. blue. right next to the buttermilk and lard. Back then. and a cadre of individuals have taken interest in resurrecting the nuances of old. more specifically. Sallie F. flavor is king. Growers and artisans across the South have revived heirloom varieties of corn. is cornmeal. To the classic Southern chess pie. coarse yellow cornmeal adds texture and flavor. In the 19th-century South. pounding dried kernels of white. I perhaps towering above the two. Shelf stability and speedy production trumped homegrown meal. later. By the mid-20th century.

Southerners have spoon bread: cornmeal. don’t miss: Peach and Blueberry Cornmeal Muffins. corn flour becomes masa for tortillas and tamales. cornmeal takes its rightful place as cream of the crop. or meal. butter. And what of those grains? They can be ground coarse or fine. BAKE WITH CORNMEAL In this issue. Today. cornmeal has fed generations. or gruel. Coarsely nixtamalized meal turns into hominy grits. page 70 Sweet Corn Madeleines. into grits. page 48 Tomato Caramel Cornmeal Upside-Down Cake. polenta. corn sticks to corn pone. a baker’s staple. page 67 Lemon Chess Bars with Cornmeal-Graham Crust. milk.At its most basic. Where the French have their soufflé. newly revived varieties of corn offer a broad spectrum for bakers to unlock a wonder of texture and flavor. They add texture and body to baked goods from muffins to biscuits to pound cakes. and the galvanizing heat of fire. Breakfast lovers can find their groove in a baked grits casserole or with cornmeal waffles and feather- light pancakes. page 70 . Add salt. and eggs made ethereal. and. and when soaked in an alkaline solution. Ground very fine. and simple breads arise. cornmeal morphs into corn flour. hog fat. A humble ingredient on its own. cornmeal mixed simply with water or milk can become a nourishing porridge. Paired with the scions of Southern ingredients. not least. From hoecakes to griddle cakes. the canonized cornbread of Southern culture––there are as many variations as there are grains of meal. a process called nixtamalization.

com. Virginia Red Mule Grits from Mills Farm Sweet. complex flavor perfect for tea cakes and pound cakes.com.95 for a 2-pound bag may | june 2018 28 . Mule-powered mill grinding organic corn into cornmeal and a fine baking pungocreekmills. South Carolina Jimmy Red Cornmeal adds rich flavor and stunning red flecks to piecrusts. $6 for a 2-pound bag product called Polenta de Georgia.our pantry MEAL TIME These Southern producers are grinding heirloom varieties worth trying.net. Alabama Italian Red Corn Polenta. South Carolina Columbia. The muins. $10 for a 2-pound bag a texturally stunning chess pie. mcewenandsons. Antebellum Fine Yellow Cornmeal adds tenderness to cakes and turns out geechieboymill. $5. $12. Georgia 1900 and stone-ground on the Eastern Shore of Virginia. made from Floriani Red Flint. Geechie Boy Mill Anson Mills Edisto Island. redmulegrits.00 for a 2-pound bag • McEwen & Sons Wilsonville.95 for a 12-ounce bag Pungo Creek Mills Painter. and other baked goods. Nineteenth-century heirloom varieties focused on superior flavor.com. Warm pink hues when cooked and a rich.us. with cornmeal made with an heirloom variety preserved since Athens. $4. ansonmills.

POUND FOR .

BUTTER. SEELEY Ultimate Southern Cream Cheese Pound Cake page 31 . SUGAR. THE POUND TAKES THE CROWN. RECIPE DEVELOPMENT AND FOOD STYLING BYBEN MIMS PHOTOGRAPHY BY MARCY BLACK SIMPSON STYLING BY BETH K. TRADITIONAL POUND CAKE RECIPES CALL FOR A POUND EACH OF THE FOUR MAIN INGREDIENTS— FLOUR. COOKBOOK AUTHOR (AND MISSISSIPPI NATIVE) BEN MIMS REIMAGINES THIS SOUTHERN CLASSIC WITH A MULTITUDE OF CONTEMPORARY FORMS AND FLAVORS. AND EGGS—HENCE THE DESSERT’S NAME. WHEN IT COMES TO THE SUPREMACY OF SOUTHERN CAKES.

stability. inserted near center comes out clean. vanilla. good that people fight over it. Add eggs. 3. the butter. cream cheese. at least usually think of something intensely rich. Scrape bottom and sides of bowl flour. they and salt at medium speed until flufy and pale. beat until superlight and airy. and egg match in proportion.5 grams) kosher salt 6 large eggs (300 grams). Makes 1 (10-inch) cake 2. cracked dome. which ensures that crackling high speed. about 15 seconds. and a wooden pick 1½ cups (340 grams) unsalted butter. at least 3 crust and gives the cake the requisite sweetness that minutes. ULTIMATE SOUTHERN CREAM 1. With mixer on medium- almost double the weight. pan on a wire rack for 10 minutes. Cream cheese until combined. beat butter. but the sugar is with a rubber spatula. and unmold from pan. room temperature 3 cups (375 grams) cake flour PRO TIP As with all cake recipes. and stir with a rubber spatula just Southern palates are known to love. Add flour. Your best bet is take the butter and cream cheese out of the refrigerator the night before you plan to bake. Let cool in 8 ounces (225 grams) cream cheese. In this cake. Bake until cake has a lightly raised. Turn cake right-side 3 cups (600 grams) granulated sugar up. 31 bake from scratch . but also moisture. having the butter and cream cheese at true room temperature is vital to the two ingredients incorporating smoothly into the batter. there’s no guessing that it’s at the perfect temperature and consistency. Preheat oven to 325°F (170°C). and some tang to balance all that sugar. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment. is golden brown on top. Invert cake onto room temperature a plate. 1 tablespoon (13 grams) vanilla extract 1½ teaspoons (4. and 8 minutes. When you say “pound cake” to a Southerner. and let cool completely on wire rack. tall. and not only adds extra fat (flavor!). 1 hour and room temperature 30 minutes to 1 hour and 40 minutes. but more so here. Butter and flour a CHEESE POUND CAKE 10-inch straight-sided tube or angel food cake pan. smooth top. beating until capped with a crackling crust of butter and sugar so there are no streaks of yolk left after each addition. That way. Spoon batter into prepared pan. sugar. one at a time.

Bourbon-Pineapple Pound Tart page 38 may | june 2018 32 .

Little Lemon Meringue Pound Cakes page 37 .

Roasted Pecan Pound Cake with Sorghum Streusel page 37 may | june 2018 34 .

35 bake from scratch . It is great for cakes like this where there is no leavening besides the air trapped inside the creamed butter and sugar. tender crumb. producing an extra-smooth. PRO TIP The cold-oven method gives batter extra time to rise.

I use black cocoa for the chocolate a rubber spatula. beating well after each addition. Invert cake Because traditional pound cakes don’t room temperature onto wire rack. With mixer on medium-high sifted batter. Place pan in a cold oven. about 10 minutes. swirl the batter with a table knife if you like. ¾ cup (94 grams) flour. producing 4 large egg whites (120 grams). an 2 large eggs (100 grams). about 1 minute. Tan pan lightly Cook over low heat. on how long it takes your oven to preheat. sifted bitter cocoa with sweetness. combine all ingredients. Pour glaze into MARBLE POUND CAKE WITH paddle attachment. In a small saucepan. divided Black Cocoa Glaze onto cake. which gives it a dark richness. two at a time.to 3-ounce) spring-loaded feel free to pour both batters into the pan and ice cream scoop. Add egg yolks. add melted white chocolate. in pan on a wire rack for 10 minutes. until . Butter and flour a 10-inch Bundt pan. beat 1 cup (227 grams) the cake batter. all their lift comes ¾ cup (64 grams) black (Dutch process) completely. The long beating time ensures this lift and ½ cup (120 grams) whole buttermilk. Add egg whites. 1½ to 2 hours. With mixer on 2 tablespoons plus 2 teaspoons (40 grams) medium-high speed. beating well after each addition. room temperature hardened. and remaining 1½ teaspoons Makes 1 (10-inch) Bundt cake (6 grams) vanilla at medium speed until flufy and BLACK COCOA GLAZE pale. Pour glaze into 2 cups (454 grams) unsalted butter. however. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the virtually all acidity. black batters into prepared pan. from the air whipped into the butter and cocoa powder*. beat until smooth. split lengthwise. For a modern update. one at a time. 4 large egg yolks (74 grams). Scrape black batter into a bowl. Black cocoa is a deeper color than regular cocoa and further 1. Return clean bowl to stand mixer. Add remaining 1½ cups cocoa powder. one at a Makes about ½ cup It never gets old to marble chocolate and plain time. and let stand until a supersmooth. Cook over low heat. until on counter to settle batter. I scoop both batters (187 grams) flour and remaining 1 teaspoon 3 tablespoons (45 grams) heavy whipping alternately into the Bundt pan using a spring. 1 cup (120 grams) confectioners’ sugar. sifted 6. beating well after each Makes about ½ cup addition. Alternatively. melted *Black cocoa is available online or in specialty Vanilla Bean Glaze (recipe follows) food stores. about heavy whipping cream 1 minute. Scrape bottom and reserved sides of bowl with a rubber spatula. and let cool until it falls of a spoon in a room temperature and divided 300°F (150°C) until lightly browned on top and thick. (This bake time depends PRO TIP 3 teaspoons (12 grams) vanilla extract. about 15 seconds. heavy stream. To make sure it doesn’t dry out paddle attachment. Let cool use chemical leavening. (3 grams) salt. 1½ cups (300 grams) sugar. room temperature 10-minute intervals until cake is done. at least 6 minutes. pour Black Cocoa Glaze over cake.BLACK-AND-WHITE CHOCOLATE 3. 3 cups (600 grams) granulated sugar. VANILLA BEAN GLAZE Add eggs. beating until ¼ cup (21 grams) black (Dutch process) chocolate in the “plain” batter to ofset the smooth. and stir just until combined. With mixer on ½ plump Bourbon-Madagascar vanilla low speed. beat remaining 1 cup a bowl. 1. and bake at a bowl. alkalized—or “Dutch processed”—to remove 2. and let that the butter and sugar will easily absorb room temperature stand until hardened. even crumb once baked. divided one drip down grooves of cake. and provide more moisture and acidity. Scrape bottom and sides sifted of bowl with a rubber spatula. and stir with a rubber spatula just cream loaded ice cream scoop to create the marbled until combined. 4 ounces (115 grams) white chocolate. add buttermilk. Add cocoa. at least 6 minutes. With the smooth and no lumps remain. about batters into a pound cake. Start These recipes call to cream the butter divided checking after 1½ hours. and continue baking in and sugar together for 6 to 8 minutes. 2 teaspoons (6 grams) kosher salt. about 10 minutes. Pour the eggs and other ingredients. Vanilla Bean Glaze over top. ¼ teaspoon kosher salt and 1 teaspoon (3 grams) salt. smooth and no lumps remain. We used King Arthur Flour Black Black Cocoa Glaze (recipe follows) Cocoa. heavy stream. but any brand will work. but 4. 5. and set aside. a wooden pick inserted near center comes out divided clean. about 15 seconds. and let cool until it falls of a spoon in a VANILLA BEAN AND BLACK (227 grams) butter. this recipe has extra buttermilk to butter. 1½ teaspoons (6 grams) vanilla at medium speed until flufy and pale. combine all ingredients. and white speed. remaining 1½ cups (300 thick. stirring constantly.) Let cool inordinately long time for a cake recipe. 15 seconds. stirring constantly. Alternately spoon Vanilla Bean Glaze and sugar during this step. COCOA GLAZES grams) sugar. Using a large (2. Scrape bottom and sides of bowl with ¾ cup (90 grams) confectioners’ sugar. and unmold from pan. ¼ teaspoon kosher salt design without swirling the batters together. seeds scraped and batter comes together. so it’s important to 2¼ cups (281 grams) cake flour. alternately scoop white and 1. beating just until bean. letting each get as much air in the batter as possible. In a small saucepan.

The oven temperature to 325°F (170°C). 1 hour and 30 minutes to 1 hour and 3 large eggs (150 grams). room temperature 2 (9x5-inch) loaf pans. cut pound cake into thick slabs. Makes 16 ground with sugar and then whipped with butter Let cool completely on pan on a wire rack. tender cake. to serve Using excess parchment as handles.) Sprinkle with sea salt. 1. sufused with a tart lemon syrup. butter. Let ⅓ cup (80 grams) heavy whipping cream. clean. tangy its signature bitter. vanilla. and top is piped with three diferent-size star tips to your bites with as much extra syrup as you want. Drizzle use. loosely covering with foil 1 hour 1¾ cups (219 grams) cake flour Sorghum Streusel (recipe follows) into baking to prevent excess browning. softened ½ teaspoon (1.5 grams) kosher salt 1. Place pecans on a rimmed baking sheet. complements the pecans with and mixed with sugar. then torched least 6 minutes. beating it with just a thick crust and meringue. Add butter. (Do not divided 2 large egg whites (60 grams). Scrape bottom and sides of bowl with a rubber cake will be your dream come true. Transfer the technique is a boon to these small. one at a time. With mixer on medium-high speed. at mimic the top of a bouquet of flowers. Butter parchment. place pound cakes because it adds the same amount fragrant sorghum syrup. In the work bowl of a food processor. divided room temperature 6. sheet. CAKES occasion stilettos. and let cool completely. 7. Add ¾ cup (170 grams) unsalted butter. letting excess extend over and salt. pulse until pecans are very finely ground produce a particularly smooth. about 20 pulses. beating until cooked through and caramelized. Rub syrup into sugar with your fingertips until evenly incorporated. until large clumps form. up to 1 day. about 15 seconds. If you’re a 2 cups (284 grams) whole pecans until there are no streaks of yolk left after each fan of lemon meringue pie but have always wanted 1 tablespoon (14 grams) vegetable oil addition. Spoon or pour about 1 tablespoon (21 grams) sorghum syrup onto corner of each slice so you can dip bites of cake into syrup for a more intense sorghum flavor. room temperature room temperature 50 minutes. 1¼ teaspoons (3 grams) kosher salt. then this pound cake is your special. and rub together with your fingertips WITH SORGHUM STREUSEL sides of pans. combine sugar and sorghum syrup. Line pans with 37 bake from scratch . Preheat oven to 350°F (180°C). Whipped heavy cream is a frequent addition to crumbly cake is topped with a streusel imbued with 4. at least 3 minutes. Spread pecans in a single layer on baking LITTLE LEMON MERINGUE POUND sneakers. for sprinkling cool in pans on a wire rack for 10 minutes. The meringue on of sorghum on the corner so you can dip or smear salt. Break up Sorghum Streusel. leathery taste. beat 1 cup (227 grams) unsalted butter. and toss with your hands until evenly If plain pound cake is your pair of everyday coated. then this 2 cups (400 grams) granulated sugar. To serve. and place on serving plates. SORGHUM STREUSEL Makes about 2½ cups 1 cup (200 grams) granulated sugar 2 tablespoons (42 grams) sorghum syrup 1 cup (125 grams) all-purpose flour 6 tablespoons (84 grams) unsalted butter. room temperature sprinkle over batter in large clumps. divided 4 large eggs (200 grams). with oil. In a medium bowl. remove Lemon Syrup (recipe follows) from pans. divided spatula. Bake until toasted and fragrant. ROASTED PECAN POUND CAKE parchment paper. (It will look like golden light brown sugar. room temperature flour and sour cream. pack it down. Divide batter between prepared pans. Butter and flour parchment. Sorghum. chilled Sorghum syrup. Flaked sea salt. and place on wire rack. and 2 teaspoons (8 grams) vanilla extract. Reduce into a nutty batter enriched with sour cream. Freeze until ready to Makes 2 (9x5-inch) loaves 2. 1⅓ cups (267 grams) plus ¾ cup (150 grams) 1 teaspoon (3 grams) kosher salt 5. and remaining 1 cup (200 grams) sugar. Bake until topping is deep golden brown and 1 teaspoon (5 grams) baking powder 2 cups (250 grams) all-purpose flour a wooden pick inserted in center comes out Zest of 1 lemon ½ cup (120 grams) sour cream. and granulated sugar. Add eggs. Add egg whites. and stir with a rubber spatula room temperature 1 tablespoon (13 grams) vanilla extract just until combined. Here. 8 to 10 minutes. made with lemon zest in the batter and thick slabs of the cake drizzled with an extra shot with the paddle attachment. Roasted pecans are finely 3. I love to serve pecan sugar to the bowl of a stand mixer fitted versions. a cereal grain cooled roasted pecans and 1 cup (200 grams) of fat as butter but with additional moisture to that grows abundantly and is a popular ingredient sugar. smooth tops.) Add flour. until superlight and airy. beat at medium speed until flufy and pale. in Southern cuisine. well. Remove 3 large egg whites (90 grams).

Preheat oven to 325°F (170°C). and baking powder at .1. 10 minutes to let icing set before serving. scatter pineapple addition. Return bowl to stand mixer. Using a fork. deep tart pan to produce a sleek. Pipe 4 to 5 mounds meringue 1 ring candied pineapple from largest tip onto cakes. cool in pans on a wire rack for 5 minutes. Spoon and zest at medium speed until flufy and pale. In a small saucepan. Scrape bottom and room temperature before using. beating heat. spacing evenly apart. Divide meringue among 3 piping bags fitted 2 cups (240 grams) with 3 diferent size and shape star tips. remaining ¾ cup (150 grams) sugar. at least flour 2 (8-cup) mini loaf pan plaques (such as Makes about 1 cup 6 minutes. Butter and LEMON SYRUP medium speed until flufy and pale. Cakes can attachment.5 grams) baking powder the touch. Remove from batter into prepared pan. and the fresh chunks are a and forth over top of tart. Immediately remove bowl from saucepan. bourbon. Lift bottom peaks form. 3 large eggs (150 grams). and let cool completely. Make. whisk together 4. and stif peaks form. complete with (20 grams) bourbon. least 6 minutes. 1½ teaspoons (6 grams) 1. I went confectioners’ sugar. Pipe 5 to 6 mounds meringue from a 10x2-inch removable- smallest tip onto cakes. 2. and smooth top. beat butter. Let cool rubber spatula just until combined. vanilla. fold whipped Pound cakes have long been relegated to large. at least 3 minutes. to a simmer over medium-high heat. In the bowl of a stand 8. With mixer paddle attachment. 6. Using a rubber spatula. and serve immediately. 1 teaspoon (3 grams) salt. Add flour. letting it glaze is still wet. about 15 seconds. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the ½ cup (100 grams) granulated sugar sides of bowl with a rubber spatula. Using a kitchen torch. Bake until cakes are slightly raised and golden in order to bake up well. scrape meringue into 1 large piping 4 teaspoons (20 grams) bag fitted with a medium star tip. be made. and unmold from pans. about 15 seconds. Let cool completely. to “settle” into pans that already have structure 5. letting it fall over sheets or sheets of foil. and torch meringue just before serving. Add flour. beat until superlight and BOURBON-PINEAPPLE POUND inserted in center comes out clean. Place bowl over a saucepan of 1 teaspoon (4 grams) vanilla extract simmering water. drizzle pineapple glaze back pans onto wire racks set over rimmed baking that fruit is pineapple. over batter. 1 tablespoon (15 grams) bourbon. and stored in granulated sugar. deep pans—and for good reason: The heaviness bottom of pan from tart. 1⅓ cups on medium-high speed. Pipe 2 to 3 mounds meringue from medium-size 1. beat until superlight (267 grams) sugar. matchsticks. soaked in Lemon Syrup. and beat 8 ounces (225 grams) peeled and at medium-high speed until flufy. and stir with a TART 15 minutes to 1 hour and 30 minutes. prepared loaf cup or pan. stirring with a rubber spatula just until combined. and sprinkle over top of tart while bottom of each cake while still warm. In a medium bowl. Let come to towels to dry thoroughly. perfect complement to every Southerner’s favorite sides. ½-inch chunks 7. and brown on top and a wooden pick inserted in with a large. stirring constantly. of pan to unmold it from outer ring. cut into touch. Place pineapple chunks on a layer of paper until there are no streaks of yolk left after each be made up to 3 days in advance. pineapple juice. ¾ cup (170 grams) unsalted butter. one at a time. 6. in both the tart and the glaze. Bake until golden brown and a wooden pick on medium-high speed. whisk cream by hand until stif loosen edges of pan from tart. cool to the cored fresh pineapple.) Turn cakes over fresh pineapple juice so they’re upright. Let stand for at least soak completely into cake. carefully brown meringue mixer fitted with the paddle all over cakes. Makes 1 (10-inch) cake in pan on a wire rack for 30 minutes. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with room temperature the whisk attachment. • 5. until sugar is dissolved. and stir vanilla. gaps on top of cakes. Add eggs. baking powder. salt. at occasionally. filling in any remaining bottom fluted tart pan. 25 to 30 minutes. and slide tart back Spoon 3 to 4 tablespoons batter into each of the cakes means they don’t rise much and need onto wire rack. 2 tablespoons plus 1 teaspoon (35 grams) and remaining ¼ teaspoon salt by hand until bourbon. Thinly slice candied pineapple ring into Spoon about 1 tablespoon Lemon Syrup onto booze. 1 hour and airy. Scrape bottom and 2. and smooth tops. Invert fluted edge and chunks of fresh fruit on top. Loosen cream into batter until completely smooth. pipe. 1 teaspoon (3 grams) kosher salt until sugar is dissolved and whites are just hot to ½ teaspoon (2. Butter and flour of each cake. slim remaining 1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon center comes out clean. Let wedge of cake that eats like a tart. Here. one at a time. beating Williams Sonoma Goldtouch) or 16 (5½x3-inch) until there are no streaks of yolk left after each mini loaf pans. filling in some of the gaps in center (170°C). Carefully 3. But for this cake. at least 3 minutes. 2 to 3 minutes. and cook. Preheat oven to 325°F tip onto cakes. In a small bowl. confectioners’ sugar (Alternatively. whisk together egg 1½ cups (300 grams) granulated sugar whites. Lemon Syrup can 3. With mixer 4. beat butter. room temperature and add remaining ½ teaspoon (2 grams) 1½ cups (187 grams) cake flour vanilla. divided combined. Add eggs. bring lemon juice and sugar and airy. 1 cup (240 grams) fresh lemon juice addition. an airtight container for up to 1 day before serving. sides of bowl with a rubber spatula.

Peachy Quæn THE SOUTHERN FRUIT TO RULE THEM ALL—THE BRIGHT. MUFFINS. SEELEY AND FOOD STYLING BY . AND THE TRADITIONAL COBBLER PHOTOGRAPHY BY STEPHANIE WELBOURNE STEELE / RECIPE DEVELOPMENT JADE SINACORI / STYLING BY BETH K. CAKES. SUCCULENT PEACH—PUNCHES UP THE SWEET SUMMER FLAVOR OF A CROSTATA.

Coconut Peach Cake page 47 .

Peach and Blueberry Cornmeal Muffins page 48 41 bake from scratch .

Peach Blackberry Bourbon Crostata page 47 may | june 2018 42 .

Peach Pound Cake page 45 43 bake from scratch .

Peach & Basil Cobbler page 45 may | june 2018 44 .

if necessary. 3 to 4 minutes. Stir in walnuts and cream just until as desired in a single layer. Run a knife around edges of pan browning. Butter and Transfer batter to a large bowl. 4. combined. Add 2 tablespoons (16 grams) all-purpose flour at 2 tablespoons (4 grams) chopped fresh basil eggs. Top with biscuits. 20 minutes. and vanilla bean paste to a boil over of the peaches in this decadent pound cake. beating to combine. reduce heat to low. and sprinkle divided ¼ cup plus 2 tablespoons (90 grams) whole with sparkling sugar. Using a 2½-inch round to loosen cake. Using a pastry melted. beating until combined. 15 to 20 minutes. Wrap in plastic 4. stopping to scrape sides 1 tablespoon (15 grams) baking powder ½ teaspoon (2 grams) vanilla extract of bowl.012. and cutter. with foil after 30 minutes of baking to prevent foil after 1 hour of baking to prevent excess 3. Butter and while walnuts bring warm crunch to the sugared ½ teaspoon (1 gram) ground nutmeg flour a 10-cup Bundt pan. ½ cup (60 grams) confectioners’ sugar thin layer of egg wash onto biscuits. Add eggs. Spoon half of batter into prepared pan. gently roll dough excess browning. (400 grams) sugar at medium speed until ½ cup (100 grams) granulated sugar room temperature flufy. brown cream cheese complement the bright sweetness Makes about 1½ cups sugar. In a medium bowl. Preheat oven to 325°F (170°C). Gradually add Makes 1 (9-inch) cake ½ cup (120 grams) plus 2 tablespoons confectioner’s sugar. Bake until a wooden pick inserted in center center comes out clean. Brush a 2⅓ cups (467 grams) granulated sugar. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with attachment. whisk together 2¾ cups butter. 2 to 3 minutes. set aside. Add cornstarch mixture. Using a knife. cubed 1 cup (220 grams) firmly packed light (344 grams) all-purpose flour. divided paddle attachment.5 grams) ¼-inch-thick sliced combined after each addition. whisk together cornstarch and 2 tablespoons (30 grams) water. (Dough will be slightly crumbly. Spoon batter over batter and cream cheese filling.) peaches. and refrigerate for at least 30 minutes. gradually ½ cup (120 grams) heavy whipping cream 1¼ cups (280 grams) ¼-inch-thick sliced add flour mixture to butter mixture alternately 2 tablespoons (16 grams) cornstarch peeled fresh peaches (about 2 medium with ½ cup (120 grams) buttermilk. 1½ cups (340 grams) unsalted butter. Set aside. medium-high heat. Using the paddle ¾ cup (165 grams) firmly packed light brown 2. In a small bowl. lightly beaten low speed until smooth. peeled fresh peaches (about 6 medium 1. biscuit topping. Add ½ cup (113 grams) stopping to scrape sides of bowl. With mixer on low speed. ½ cup (57 grams) chopped walnuts brown sugar and salt. and top with remaining blender. tangy dose of buttermilk and swirls of BUTTERMILK GLAZE 5. and remaining 1 teaspoon (6 grams) vanilla bean paste granulated sugar. peaches) flour a 9-inch round cake pan. Place remaining ¼ cup (57 grams) butter in until well combined. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the 3 large eggs (150 grams) paddle attachment. room temperature and divided caramelized base it creates while the syrupy fruit 2 cups (400 grams) diced peeled fresh PEACH & BASIL COBBLER bottom simmers underneath its topcoat. Add sugar. and beat at medium- medium speed until creamy. Bake until a wooden pick inserted near Gently shape dough into a disk. and simmer for 2 minutes. beating until smooth. PEACH POUND CAKE let cool completely. granulated prepared pan. beat cream cheese and butter ¼ cup (30 grams) coconut flour at medium speed until creamy. and salt. 3 to 4 minutes. Spoon Buttermilk Glaze over wrap to prevent a skin from forming. ½ cup (112 grams) cream cheese. Let cool slightly. Preheat oven to 350°F (180°C). Invert cake onto a wire rack. and salt by hand. arranging batter. bring peaches. Sprinkle brown sugar cream cheese filling. Clean bowl of stand mixer. softened Buttermilk Glaze (recipe follows) Slightly sweet basil adds an unexpected 1½ cups (187. beginning 2 tablespoons (30 grams) water peaches) and ending with flour mixture. 40 to 50 minutes. Makes 1 (10-cup) Bundt cake cooled cake. Serve warm. covering with 2. Bake until biscuits are deep brown and filling is ½ teaspoon (2 grams) almond extract bubbly. gently swirl together crumbly. 45 bake from scratch . softened whisk for 1 minute. Beat in almond extract. one at a time. Let cool in pan for to ½-inch thickness. remaining sugar the paddle attachment. Preheat oven to 375°F (190°C). covering to 1 hour and 35 minutes. This cake peaches (about 3 medium peaches) Makes 1 (8-inch) skillet beats them all—no contest. beating just until 4½ cups (1. cut in cold butter until mixture is over melted butter. Add (30 grams) whole buttermilk. 1½ tablespoons (21 grams) unsalted butter. Add basil. ½ cup (112 grams) cream cheese. 1 hour and 30 minutes wrap. Place pan in oven until butter is 5. smoothing top with an ofset spatula. 1. (16 grams) all-purpose flour. softened after each addition. nutmeg. beat cream cheese. PEACH UPSIDE-DOWN CAKE 1 teaspoon (3 grams) kosher salt Reduce mixer speed to low. beating well 1 teaspoon (3 grams) kosher salt ¾ cup (170 grams) unsalted butter. ⅓ cup (67 grams) sugar. cut 7 rounds. 4. beat butter and 2 cups 1¼ cups (156 grams) all-purpose flour ½ cup (120 grams) whole buttermilk. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the warm. baking powder. ¼ teaspoon kosher salt 2. coconut flour. Pour peach mixture softened softened into an 8-inch skillet. A rich. Beat in 1 tablespoon (12 grams) sparkling sugar butter. In a large bowl. 6 to 8 minutes. The beauty of an upside-down cake is the golden. whisk together flour. Top with peaches. 5 large eggs (250 grams) buttermilk 6. serve 2¾ cups (344 grams) plus 2 tablespoons 1.5 grams) self-rising flour herbaceous note to this cobbler's saucy filling 1 cup (200 grams) granulated sugar 1. buttermilk. stir together flour. remaining 2 tablespoons (30 grams) buttermilk 3. On a lightly floured surface. and vanilla. 1 large egg (50 grams). 6 tablespoons (84 grams) cold unsalted and divided 3. Fold in peaches. Set aside. Cover dough with plastic and let cool slightly. In a medium saucepan. 6. buttermilk. comes out clean. Invert cake onto a serving plate.

Peach Upside-Down Cake may | june 2018 46 .

Brush dough with fruit. Line a large steady stream. Use both hands 1. Add remaining 1 tablespoon (15 grams) ice at a time. Beat in vanilla. and shape into 3. In a large bowl. and refrigerate for at baking powder. 4 cups (900 grams) sliced peeled fresh 2 teaspoons (8 grams) granulated sugar room temperature peaches (about 5 medium peaches) 1 teaspoon (3 grams) kosher salt 1½ teaspoons (6 grams) vanilla extract ½ cup (110 grams) firmly packed light brown ½ cup plus 1 tablespoon (127 grams) cold Peach Simple Syrup (recipe follows) sugar unsalted butter American Buttercream (recipe follows) 2 tablespoons (16 grams) all-purpose flour 6 tablespoons (90 grams) ice water. let cool completely on wire racks. and snowy-white appearance. butter and flour again. But take one bite 1 teaspoon (5 grams) baking powder of this richly crusted treat. whisk together flour. Let cool for 20 minutes. beat butter and sugar at add 5 tablespoons (75 grams) ice water in a slow. 1 teaspoon (5 grams) water. PEACH BLACKBERRY BOURBON 5. an Italian rustic tart. one rimmed baking sheet with parchment paper. 2. Transfer to prepared COCONUT PEACH CAKE mixture to butter mixture alternately with pan. about 30 minutes. CROSTATA bake until crust is deep golden brown. and add to flour mixture. bowl. Divide 4. Cover filling with foil. Place 2 cups American Buttercream in a piping bag fitted with a medium round tip. Line bottom of 1 large egg (50 grams) incorporate butter with flour mixture. place flour. Brush 2 cups (400 grams) granulated sugar filling with remaining 1 tablespoon (15 grams) 3 large eggs (150 grams). roll Crostata With mixer on low speed. 3½ cups (437 grams) cake flour unlikely vessel for juicy peaches. the after each addition. Bake until a wooden pick inserted in center egg wash. Pour peach mixture onto center of Crostata Makes 1 (9-inch) cake coconut milk mixture. Let cool flakes brings a dash of color to the typically in pans for 10 minutes. beginning and ending Dough. room temperature The crostata. sliced to turn mixture over in a snapping motion to flour 3 (9-inch) round cake pans. flour. Transfer pans with parchment paper. beating just until combined dough up and over to encase filling. With processor running. ¾ cup (180 grams) coconut milk 1¼ cups (156 grams) all-purpose flour ½ cup (120 grams) whole buttermilk. about softened Makes 1 (9-inch) crostata 25 minutes more. and sprinkle with turbinado sugar. Preheat oven to 350°F (180°C). medium speed until flufy. 3 to 4 minutes. 47 bake from scratch . toss together peaches. 2 tablespoons (30 grams) a disk. Wrap in plastic wrap. beating well after each addition. Sprinkle with blackberries. stopping to scrape sides of bowl. whisk together egg and cloud-like coconut cake. baking soda. Bake for 20 minutes. Brush layers with Peach Simple Syrup. showstopper. 3. A final coating of toasted coconut comes out clean. Garnish: toasted coconut flakes ⅛ teaspoon kosher salt and stir until combined. and salt. and you’ll find a uniquely CROSTATA DOUGH 1 teaspoon (5 grams) baking soda Southern combination of jammy peach and Makes 1 (9-inch) crust ½ teaspoon (1.5 grams) kosher salt blackberry filling with a warm splash of bourbon. Spread buttercream within border. cornstarch. may seem an bourbon just before serving. paddle attachment. sugar. On a lightly floured surface. and salt. 1 teaspoon (5 grams) water to the work bowl of a food processor. Preheat oven to 375°F (190°C). In a small bowl. and pulse 2. sugar. In a medium bowl. Remove from pans. Pipe a ½-inch-thick layer of buttercream around edge of one cake layer. 5. Add eggs. brown water. 1. this triple-layer cake is an undeniable 4. divided 1. with the blushing stone batter among prepared pans. Layer half of peaches in center. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the 1 tablespoon (12 grams) turbinado sugar until mixture is crumbly. Butter and ½ cup (85 grams) fresh blackberries. Blending one traditional Southern classic. just until dough comes together. In a small bourbon. In a medium bowl. stir together coconut milk and buttermilk. Cut butter into ½-inch Crostata Dough (recipe follows) cubes. divided 1 cup (225 grams) sliced peeled fresh peaches 2 tablespoons (16 grams) cornstarch (about 2 medium peaches) 3 tablespoons (45 grams) bourbon. Turn out dough. if needed. gradually add flour Dough into a 12-inch circle. and salt. least 1 hour. and 1½ cups (340 grams) unsalted butter. Fold edges of with flour mixture.

Add melted paddle attachment.gently pressing into buttercream and ensuring PEACH AND BLUEBERRY bowl. quick breads are the best way to enjoy peaches for combined after each addition. room temperature 1 cup (240 grams ) peach purée* ALMOND STREUSEL AMERICAN BUTTERCREAM 3 cups (675 grams) diced fresh peaches Makes about 4 cups Makes about 6 cups (about 4 medium peaches) 1 cup (170 grams) fresh blueberries 1½ cups (188 grams) all-purpose flour 2½ cups (567 grams) unsalted butter. if desired. blend until mixture is 1 teaspoon (3 grams) kosher salt a food processor. once. beating just until refrigerate for up to 4 days. In a medium saucepan. Reduce Refrigerate in an airtight container for up to mixer speed to low. until golden brown and a wooden pick inserted ½ cup (100 grams) granulated sugar room temperature in center comes out clean. these fruity ending with flour mixture. Fold in peaches breakfast. about 1 cup (250 grams) purée. Repeat layers CORNMEAL MUFFINS each addition. baking soda. 30 to 35 minutes ½ cup (120 grams) water 2 teaspoons (8 grams) vanilla extract more. and salt. Top with remaining cake layer. speed until creamy. In a medium bowl. melted 2 teaspoons (6 grams) kosher salt 2. whisk together flour. 1. up to 2 weeks. 2 teaspoons (10 grams) baking powder *To make peach purée. and purée until smooth. In the South. filling three-fourths full. beating until smooth. ½ cup (113 grams) unsalted butter. In a small bowl. and salt. Makes smooth. softened Almond Streusel. gradually add Spread remaining American Buttercream on jumbo blueberry-peach muffins are no exception. Freeze for 30 minutes. Refrigerate in an airtight container for 1 cup (240 grams) whole buttermilk. 2½ cups (550 grams) firmly packed light 4. stirring until mixture is crumbly. Cover and and the almond-flecked streusel. and bake peaches (about 1 medium peach) 4 large eggs (200 grams). In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the sugar at medium speed until flufy. flour mixture to butter mixture alternately with top and sides of cake. Beat in vanilla. beat butter at medium 3 to 4 minutes. Almond Streusel (recipe follows) ¾ cup (85 grams) sliced almonds softened ¾ cup (165 grams) firmly packed light brown 1½ (2-pound) bags (1. whisk together flour. almonds. baking powder. Using an 2 teaspoons (10 grams) baking soda peaches (334 grams). Top with Makes about 1½ cups 1 cup (227 grams) unsalted butter. In the bowl of stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment.365 grams) 1. and blueberries.5 grams) kosher salt 1 cup (240 grams) heavy whipping cream liners. Spread Makes 12 jumbo muins 3. Place in the work bowl of immersion blender. Press toasted coconut Doubling down on crunchy texture with cornmeal buttermilk and peach purée. loosely covering with foil after 15 minutes 3 cups (375 grams) all-purpose flour of baking to prevent excess browning. Add eggs.5 grams) sliced peeled fresh brown sugar temperature to 350°F (180°C). stopping to scrape sides of butter. and let cool. slice and peel 2 medium Remove from heat. beating well after border is higher than peaches. Preheat oven to 425°F (225°C). beat butter and brown 1. . • confectioners’ sugar. Spoon batter into prepared PEACH SIMPLE SYRUP muin cups. heat all ingredients 1 cup (150 grams) cornmeal over medium heat until sugar is dissolved. 1. a thin layer of American Buttercream on top cornmeal. and gradually add 2 weeks. Reduce oven ½ cup (112. brown sugar. and these salt. Line a sugar confectioners’ sugar 12-cup muin pan with parchment or paper ½ teaspoon (1. or spray wells with cooking spray. cream. bigger is always better. 5 to 6 minutes. and and sides of the cake. one at a time. beginning and into sides of cake. With mixer on low speed. Bake for 5 minutes.

CONSIDER THIS YOUR CHEAT SHEET FOR THE WORLD OF SOUTHERN BAKING BY JENNIFER V.SOUTHERN BAKING FROM CAKES AND PIES FOR ANY SWEET TOOTH TO THE PEOPLE. COLE STYLING BY SIDNEY BRAGIEL / RECIPE DEVELOPMENT AND FOOD STYLING BY LAURA CRANDALL AND ELIZABETH STRINGER . AND TIME-TESTED INGREDIENTS THAT DEFINE THE REGION. TRADITIONS.

if desired. until tender. a Virginia native and cofounder of the Appalachian Food Summit (appalachianfood. ¾ cup (170 grams) unsalted butter. and let stand for 2. Bake for 16 minutes. 1 to 2 days before serving. and Travis insists that the cake must sit out for a day or two before serving. Remove from ¼ teaspoon ground cloves pans. gradually add 1 cup (336 grams) sorghum molasses flour mixture to butter mixture. SAUTÉED APPLES ¾ teaspoon (1. and top with another cake layer. baking soda. allspice. heat. in his Wise County hometown. In a medium skillet. and deep-seated tradition. chemistry by letting the cake sit out. 3 to 4 minutes. lightly beaten cloves. You only get this magical medium speed until creamy. brown of Apple Butter on top and sides of cake. Add apples. beat butter and sugar at like an extra secret layer. cinnamon. When cinnamon was hard to come by. Shovel and Pick. beating until 3 cups (375 grams) all-purpose flour combined. again. and wipe pans clean. toss together apples. melt butter over medium 3 (8-inch) round cake pans with cooking spray. beating just until 1 teaspoon (5 grams) baking powder combined. With mixer on low speed. stirring occasionally.5 grams) ground cinnamon 4.com). 5. the apple butter begins to separate.com/apple. Place one cake layer on a cake plate. TRAVIS MILTON’S APPLE STACK CAKE Makes 1 (8-inch) cake The stack cake usually consists of several thin layers. Spread a thin layer 1. his great-grandmother would use Red Hot candies to flavor the apple butter. This year. baking ½ cup (100 grams) granulated sugar powder. Add buttermilk. Spray and line pans 1 large apple (185 grams). and 2 medium eggs (94 grams). smoothing tops with an ofset spatula.000 apple varietes were grown. thinly sliced ½ cup (120 grams) whole buttermilk. “By letting the cake sit out at room temperature. resourcefulness. cook. Add eggs and sorghum molasses. Makes about 1 cup ¼ teaspoon (1. or your favorite apple butter) layer.” he says. light brown sugar 7 cups Apple Butter (Use Travis’s recipe.A APPAL ACHIAN APPLE STACK CAKE Hallmarks of Appalachian cooking include heartiness. and repeat baking process. 1.25 grams) baking soda and let cool completely in pans. “The thicker center of the apple butter 2. beating until combined. . No other dish resonates like the apple stack cake. making it super moist. and line with parchment paper. Repeat Garnish: Sautéed Apples (recipe follows) until all layers are stacked.” stopping to scrape sides of bowl. Spray cake on a cake stand with a lid. further honors that Appalachian make-do spirit with his cake. a family tradition he’s embraced. he’ll continue to share the foodways of his people at his new restaurant. In a small bowl. In a medium bowl. Remove from oven. 1 cup Apple Butter in a ½-inch layer on cake 1 tablespoon (14 grams) unsalted butter butter. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the then starts to get jammy and creates what seems paddle attachment. Chef Travis Milton. Place sugar. Spread ⅛ teaspoon ground cinnamon found at bakefromscratch. softened 3. Some of that seeps into the cake itself. When ready to serve.5 grams) ground allspice pans. Divide remaining batter among prepared 3 tablespoons (42 grams) firmly packed room temperature pans. typically made with warm spices like cinnamon and clove and dried apples or apple butter so poor families could stretch the natural bounty of the region—an area where at one point over 1. 5 to 7 minutes. whisk together flour. and cinnamon. garnish with Sautéed Apples. Preheat oven to 350°F (180°C). Divide half of batter among prepared ¾ teaspoon (1.

stir together ½ cup Cover and refrigerate for at least 30 minutes Makes 12 (113 grams) warm water. for frying minutes. there’s always B a sugar-wild crowd at Café du Monde. In a small bowl.com. Beat in enough remaining flour to drain on paper towels. never gets old. On a lightly floured surface. roll dough to ½ cup (113 grams) warm water (105°F/40°C mixture is foamy.5 grams) kosher salt until smooth. divided sugar at medium speed until smooth. Time the perfect bite so you don’t burn your mouth on the fresh-from-the-fryer dough. used instead. 2 to 3 ½ cup (113 grams) boiling water add 3 cups (375 grams) flour. no matter how seasoned you are. 4 to 5 cups (500 to 625 grams) all-purpose 3.) 3 tablespoons (36 grams) plus 1 teaspoon remaining 3 tablespoons (36 grams) granulated 5. beating until combined. yeast. Let stand until 4. Early morning. salt. Add egg. and let ½ cup (128 grams) evaporated milk smooth. Sift confectioners’ sugar 1 large egg (50 grams) make a soft dough. beating until minutes. midday. beat shortening. BEIGNETS It’s a rite of passage. (4 grams) granulated sugar. ¼-inch thickness. And it’s one that. turn out dough. That dusting on your shirt is a telltale badge of honor. where residents and tourists alike commune over plates of French doughnuts and mugs of milky chicory coffee. Using a sharp knife. . or late (late) night in New Orleans. cut to 110°F/43°C) 2. turning to grease top. Carefully remove from hot oil. Serve warm. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the dough into 12 (3-inch) squares. over hot beignets. pour oil to a depth (4 grams) granulated sugar. On a lightly floured surface. (Do not reroll 1 teaspoon (3 grams) active dry yeast paddle attachment. flour and knead until smooth and elastic. beating (188°C). Gradually turning frequently. and 1 teaspoon or up to 2 hours. BEIGNETS 1. 6 to 8 *Available on amazon. In a large Dutch oven. fry dough. until golden brown. Take a seat under the green-and-white awning off Jackson Square with your order of three. ½ teaspoon (1. Stir in yeast mixture. and heat over medium-high heat 2 tablespoons (28 grams) all-vegetable ½ cup (113 grams) boiling water and evaporated until a deep-fry thermometer registers 370°F shortening milk. Working in batches. and dough. about 5 minutes. and revel in the clouds of sugar that explode with each bite. Add of 3 inches. 1 cup (120 grams) confectioners’ sugar Place dough in bowl. Spray a large bowl with cooking spray. Vegetable oil can be Cottonseed oil*.

filling pot until water level is at least 2 inches above top of can. Grande Dame of Southern Cooking. deanscakehouse. Edna Lewis. The modern Southern table thrives. making the case for Southern African American cooking as the foundation for the way our nation eats.) Using a pair of tongs or a slotted spoon. Alabama. Stir until smooth. made literally by Southern grandmothers. WILDFLOUR PASTRY Charleston. DULCE DE LECHE Introduced to the Southern repertoire by our neighbors even farther south. Let cool to room temperature before opening. Make sure can is covered with water at all times (at least 1 inch above can as it cooks). Simmer for 2 to 3 hours. April 13. and brandied peaches. reputations are made by the ability to caramelize sugar into perfect brown clouds of icing and swoop it onto rich buttery cake layers. 1916–February 13. EDNA LEWIS “Dr. drizzled over cookies or scones. Chef and author Edna Lewis fully introduced our regional food to the rest of the country. this easy-to-make sweet treat can be used as the filling in a chocolate cake. wildflourpastrycharleston. sugarees. or eaten by the spoonful straight out of the can. and place on a wire rack. Who kept breadbaskets full. Add room temperature water. it can overheat and explode. Check every 30 minutes. Place pot over high heat. remove can from water. Virginia. To read The Taste of Country Cooking is to step into the story of a place where (mostly) women celebrated the harvest with blackberry cobblers. 2006. and we owe a bite of gratitude to Miss Lewis for it.com Seven layers of perfection. Damson plum preserves. and add more boiling water as needed.” So reads the epitaph on her gravestone in Freetown. and lower to a simmer. SUGAREE’S BAKERY New Albany. Place can on its side in a large stockpot. with yeast rolls and corn pone.com Caramel still made in a cast-iron skillet in small batches. South Carolina. Here are three bakeries to get your fix. despite economic trials and political turbulence. (photographed) DEAN’S CAKE HOUSE Andalusia. Mississippi. may | june 2018 52 . CARAMEL CAKE In the South.com A crumb that walks the line between dense and flufy in perfect balance. Here’s how to make it: Remove label from a can of sweetened condensed milk. (If the can is not fully submerged.

Last summer. a milk chocolate mousse with hazelnut praline and caramel hazelnut butter. reach-for-the-stars combos. all the way back in 1912. GOO GOO CLUSTER the past few years. or tangy green tomatoes. It brings the best of the season to deep-fried life. Will brake for fried pies. F FRIED HAND PIES At county fairs and state fairs and gas stations galore. Fruitful. Stuffed with spiced apples. At press time. salted caramel. page 17. has been stepping up the game on their signature chocolate-nut-caramel candies. a Southern motto. and pastry crunchies inside a dark chocolate shell. Make our Fried Apple Hand Pies. This palm-sized envelope of crust delights. but we know a summer road trip to Nashvegas suddenly sounds a whole lot sweeter. Levon Wallace at Gray & Dudley crafted the GD Cluster. Matt Bolus of 404 Kitchen did a riff on an Old Fashioned with bourbon buttermilk caramel and orange bitters. In 2015.com). The Summer Chef Series Premium line ($8) partners with area chefs to create oversized. Nashville-based Goo Goo er (googoo. or peaches. Truly. Egalitarian. the first combination candy bar ever invented. . In home kitchens and cafés and diners and more. this summer’s slate was still in the delicious R&D stage.

. ½ cup (120 grams) heavy whipping cream. it’s the base for chef Frank Stitt’s pizza crust at Bottega restaurant in Birmingham. adds richness to cakes and depth to icing and gives breads a golden crust. And much like with wine. whisk together 2 cups (240 grams) confectioners’ sugar. one of our favorite pantry staples. with notes of citrus. and 1 teaspoon (4 grams) vanilla extract.com merits extra sweetness. the color and flavor of every batch of honey reflects a specific time and place. Make lltupelohoney. Here are a few that have us buzzing: SAVANNAH BEE COMPANY PALMETTO HONEY savannahbee.com Rich and well-rounded. Drizzle over scones. the product of foraging pollen from saw ICING palmetto blooms. Sweet and mild amber nectar. elevate layer and sheet cakes. The vast landscape of the South produces a veritable honeypot of varieties. tle icing pushes the wow factor L.L. from the white tupelo tree. muffins EASTABOGA BEE COMPANY RAW ALABAMA HONEY and scones. LANIER & SONS TUPELO HONEY ll of your favorite bakes.com versatile recipe your go-to to Light golden color.H HONEY Honey. muffins. In a small bowl. from wildflowers. and everything else that eastabogabeecompany. with delicate notes of violet. or quick breads.

chocolate. like sugar or shortbread. But if you want to jam up your baking even more. and the new and improved model features larger handles and more defined fluting for a sharper cake design. $69. USING IT TO GLAZE CAKE LAYERS. JAM ve to stretch the fruit of the season with jam. headquartered in Katy but with numerous locations throughout Texas and the U. And we can’t remember the last time we were so excited to put batter to iron. WEIKEL’S BAKERY (weikels.S. try: 1. Jam’s fruity flavors pair well with simpler cookies. freshly baked bread. In West. between Dallas and Austin.com. They’ve become such a part of Texas’s rural foodways that no drive through the Lone Star State is complete without a pit stop for one of these grab-and-go delicacies.99 . and cherry cream. the Czech belt is strong. b is year.com). 3. If using a thick jam like preserves. lodgemfg.com) serves prune. Add however much you want depending on how strong you want the jam flavor and what color you want your buttercream to be. There’s nothing wrong with a y smear on a slice of warm. brush jam over still-warm cake layers fresh out of the oven. like you would vanilla extract or cocoa. And the KOLACHE FACTORY (kolachefactory. At VILLAGE BAKERY (254-826-5151). It’s the legacy addition every Southern (or Southern-inspired) kitchen needs. the oldest Czech bakery in the state. FLAVORING BUTTERCREAM. This heirloom piece from the 1950s produces evenly baked and browned cakes. Farther south. makes sure you’re never too far from a fruit-filled Czech treat (shown). the company reintroduced the cast-iron Fluted Cake Pan. after a nearly 20-year hiatus. If cake layers are cooled. Texas. heat jam until it is liquid before brushing on layers. add a little water to it before glazing. KOL ACHES ht to Central Texas by Czech immigrants in the late 19th century. es are tender pastries that run sweet (with fruit fillings) and savory d with sausages like pigs in a blanket). poppy seed. With a pastry brush. and even sausage fill yeasty pastry. MAKING IT A FILLING FOR SANDWICH COOKIES OR THUMBPRINT COOKIES. apricot. 2. Mix the jam directly into the buttercream. between Austin and Houston in LaGrange.. LODGE CAST IRON odge cast-iron skillet may be the workhorse of the Southern kitchen. the jewel-toned secret n for extending the summer harvest.

M
In Mississippi, forget mud masks and mud baths. Inspired by the dark waters
MISSISSIPPI of the mighty river, this dense sheet cake, with pecans, marshmallows, and a

MUD CAKE gooey glaze, reminds us that down South, it’s all about the restorative value
of chocolate.

MISSISSIPPI MUD CAKE 1. Preheat oven to 350°F (180°C). Butter and CHOCOLATE GLAZE
Makes about 16 servings flour a rimmed half sheet pan. Makes about 1 cup
2. In a large bowl, whisk together flour, sugars,
1½ cups (188 grams) all-purpose flour cocoa, baking soda, and ¼ teaspoon salt. Add ¼ cup (21 grams) unsweetened cocoa powder
1 cup (200 grams) granulated sugar 1 cup (227 grams) melted butter, eggs, and ¼ cup (60 grams) whole milk
1 cup (220 grams) firmly packed light vanilla, stirring until combined. Spoon batter ¼ cup (57 grams) unsalted butter
brown sugar into prepared pan, spreading to edges. ⅛ teaspoon kosher salt
½ cup (43 grams) unsweetened cocoa 3. Bake until a wooden pick inserted in center 2 cups (240 grams) confectioners’ sugar
powder comes out clean, about 20 minutes. Sprinkle 1 teaspoon (4 grams) vanilla extract
½ teaspoon (2.5 grams) baking soda with marshmallows. Bake until marshmallows
½ teaspoon (1.5 grams) kosher salt, divided are softened, about 5 minutes more. 1. In a medium saucepan, bring cocoa, milk,
1 cup (227 grams) plus 1 tablespoon 4. In a medium skillet, combine pecans, butter, and salt to a simmer over medium
(14 grams) unsalted butter, melted and remaining 1 tablespoon (14 grams) melted heat, whisking constantly. Remove from heat;
divided butter, and remaining ¼ teaspoon salt. Cook whisk in confectioners’ sugar and vanilla. Use
4 large eggs (200 grams), lightly beaten over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until immediately.
1 teaspoon (4 grams) vanilla extract pecans are toasted, about 8 minutes. Sprinkle
1 (10-ounce) package (283 grams) toasted pecans over marshmallows; drizzle
miniature marshmallows with Chocolate Glaze. Serve warm or at room
1 cup (113 grams) chopped pecans temperature.
Chocolate Glaze (recipe follows)

’NANA PUDDIN’
mer gas station along Savannah’s Bull
Cheryl and Griffith Day serve Southern
ia by the bite at Back in the Day Bakery
(backinthedaybakery.com). A kaleidoscope of cupcakes,
grandma-worthy pies (Lemon Shaker, Coconut
Cream, Salted Apple Cider), and freshly baked
breads keep this pastel-hued bakery packed.
But it’s the ’Nana Puddin’, that creamy staple of
diners, meat ’n’ threes, and home kitchens across
the region, that brings us back again and again—
and again. Cheryl layers silky vanilla cream
pudding, house-made crumbled shortbread
cookies, fresh bananas, and sweet whipped cream.
She keeps it simple and, in doing so, reminds us
that simple is perfect.

OLEO

e who has read an old hand-scrawled
card has definitely encountered one word:
Oleo. Oleo is margarine. And it’s something that
modern bakers with a tendency toward farm-
fresh, heirloom ingredients turn up their noses
at. (We’ll admit it: Us, too.) But oleo, made from
vegetable oil, was used throughout Southern
baking as a more economical alternative to
butter 50 or more years ago. Invented by a French
chemist in 1869, it was originally white (the
dairy industry didn’t want anyone to confuse it
for butter), and it jumped in popularity during
World War II due to butter shortages. So, while
we’ll continue to sing the praises of butter
(delicious, creamy butter), if you’re trying to
recreate your grandmother’s famous cookies and
just can’t get them quite right, consider that she
might have used oleo. And for the sake of taste
memory, it’s OK to substitute margarine. Because
sometimes memories trump all.
Image excerpted from The Back in the Day Bakery Cookbook
by Cheryl Day and Griffith Day (Artisan Books, 2012).

P
Pecans plunged into buttery sugar is one of the most iconic confections of the South.
Dating back to Louisiana in the mid-1700s, pecan pralines (we favor puh-CAWN PRAW-

PRALINES leens over PEE-can PRAY-leens) were adapted from a French almond-based recipe
because of the abundance of pecan trees and cane sugar in the area. Pralines aren’t
difficult to make, but they can be tricky. The key is to stir often (at times, constantly)
and pay attention. A long-handled spoon and a candy thermometer are your best
friends here.

PRALINES 3. In a medium saucepan, melt butter over medium heat.
Makes 24 Stir in sugars, cream, and corn syrup; bring to a boil.
Cook, stirring constantly, until a candy thermometer
1½ cups (170 grams) pecan halves registers 240°F (116°C). Remove from heat, and
2 tablespoons (28 grams) unsalted butter let stand until a candy thermometer registers 150°F
1 cup (220 grams) firmly packed light brown sugar (65°C), about 25 minutes. (Do not stir.)
1 cup (200 grams) granulated sugar 4. Line a baking sheet with wax paper.
½ cup (120 grams) heavy whipping cream 5. Add toasted pecans, vanilla, salt, and cinnamon to
2 tablespoons (42 grams) light corn syrup sugar mixture; stir quickly and vigorously until mixture
1 teaspoon (4 grams) vanilla extract loses some of its shine, about 1 minute. Quickly spoon
¼ teaspoon kosher salt mixture by heaping tablespoonfuls, and drop onto
⅛ teaspoon ground cinnamon prepared pan. (If mixture hardens, add hot water,
1 tablespoon [15 grams] at a time, until mixture returns
1. Preheat oven to 350°F (180°C). to a spoonable consistency.) Let cool until hardened,
2. On a rimmed baking sheet, spread pecans in an even about 10 minutes. Store in an airtight container at room
layer. Bake until fragrant and toasted, 6 to 8 minutes. temperature for up to 1 week.
Let cool completely.

and endlessly buttery. sisterschuberts. Sister Schubert) turned her recipe car love the Family Recipe Cards and Wooden Recipe grandmoth mmey’s bread into a business in 1989 that transformed Card Hold m heirloomed. And though the chain is long gone. these words will forever recall a talking dinner roll for a generation of Southerners. Sister took Gommey’s recipes to the masses. Rich.com. Instead black walnut to cherry). Knowing that time-pressed Southerners still wanted WoodKith. RECIPE CARDS SISTER SCHUBERT The pass-a alue of Southern baking lives in hand-me-down In Alabama cia Barnes (a. we still like folks who know the value of a hot-from-the-oven dinner roll (like the ones shown here) no matter what else is on the table. Thanks to a marketing campaign for the Quincy’s steakhouse chain. The holder. yeasty. comes from locally sourced fallen trees (from maple to freshly baked breads. a nod to the importance of homemade bread in rounding out any meal. in white ink on dinner rolls that line kraft paper. for tender cinnamon rolls heirloomedcollection. $32 for the set This is one cheat that even the most flour-covered Southern cook can applaud. Yeast.com 59 bake from scratch . of cans of whomp biscuits or The heavy-weight cards plastic bags of commercial (pack of 25).k. Fat. those rolls landed on tables across the region for decades.a. handmade in Georgia by convenienc ng. will help you grocery store shelves. and fluffy pigs in a blanket. you continue your own kitchen can turn to these frozen- traditions for generations to to-oven-to-table breads come. Q QUINCY’S BIG FAT YEAST ROLLS Big. Rolls.

together egg and sugar. Preheat oven and prepare Cream Cheese in each prepared muin cup.5 grams) all-purpose flour ½ cup (113 grams) unsalted butter. 1 cup (200 grams) granulated sugar 2 tablespoons (28 grams) unsalted butter. On a lightly floured surface. and potlucks. bourbon. Remove from pan. whisk Freeze while preparing filling.5 grams) cornmeal 1½ teaspoons (4. 2 tablespoons (42 grams) dark corn syrup Whisk in milk and lemon zest and juice. CHOCOLATE BOURBON PECAN cheese at medium speed until smooth. rerolling scraps only once. Prick dough with a fork. whisk together brown sugar. beat butter and cream . Shape dough into a disk. about 15 minutes. about 20 minutes. Refrigerate 1. Whisk in coconut. Add evaporated milk and vanilla. softened 2 large eggs (100 grams) ⅓ cup plus 2 teaspoons (85 grams) cream 2 tablespoons (30 grams) whole cheese. melted butter. let cool completely on a wire rack. cornmeal. and salt. Garnish: toasted sweetened flaked coconut Using a 2¾-inch round cutter. cut dough. 3. CREAM CHEESE PASTRY DOUGH melted Makes 24 tassies 1½ teaspoons (4. The TASSIES small format and large batch aspect of the recipe will make them your new favorite treat for feeding a crowd—or just keeping a little taste of something sweet on hand for weekday pie cravings. whisking to corn syrups.5 grams) kosher salt 1. Spoon egg. Pecan Tassies. Preheat oven to 350°F (180°C). Remove from pan. combine pecans and Bake until filling is set and an instant-read chocolate morsels. ¼ cup (43 grams) chopped dark chocolate 2 tablespoons (28 grams) unsalted butter. Let cool in mixture into each prepared crust. (Dough can be made Pastry Dough as with Chocolate Bourbon ¼ cup (55 grams) firmly packed light brown ahead of time. Remove Cream Cheese Pastry thermometer inserted in center registers Dough from freezer. melted Bake until filling is set and an instant-read 1 large egg (50 grams) COCONUT TASSIES thermometer inserted in center registers 175°F 1½ tablespoons (21 grams) bourbon (79°C). Add eggs. Let cool in LEMON CHESS TASSIES pan for 10 minutes. Spray a evaporated milk 24-cup mini muin pan with cooking spray. Let cool in pan for ⅛ teaspoon kosher salt 1 large egg (50 grams) 10 minutes. and let cool ¼ cup (28 grams) finely chopped pecans ½ cup (100 grams) granulated sugar completely on a wire rack. Reduce 2 tablespoons (6 grams) lemon zest TASSIES mixer speed to low. whisking until combined. roll Cream ½ cup (60 grams) sweetened flaked coconut Cheese Pastry Dough to 1⁄16-inch thickness. ½ teaspoon (2 grams) vanilla extract 2. let dough stand at room temperature for together sugar. and wrap in plastic wrap. church suppers. if desired. 1½ teaspoons filling into each prepared crust. and let cool completely on a wire rack. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment. In a medium bowl. T These simple. Sprinkle 4. thermometer inserted in center registers 185°F (85°C). In another medium bowl. whisk sugar time. 2 tablespoons (42 grams) light corn syrup 15 to 20 minutes before rolling. morsels melted ¼ cup plus ½ tablespoon (72 grams) 1. filling each cup three-fourths full. softened milk 1 cup (125 grams) all-purpose flour ½ teaspoon (1. And you’ll find them across the Southern sideboard at family reunions. TWO EASY TASSIE VARIATIONS: 1½ teaspoons filling into each prepared crust. Bake until filling is set and an instant-read with toasted coconut. pressing into Pastry Dough as with Chocolate Bourbon bottom and up sides. Remove from pan. and over pecans. Place one round 1. Pour egg mixture pan for 10 minutes. If chilled for a long period of Pecan Tassies. Spoon 1 tablespoon (14 grams) unsalted butter.) and flour. whisking until combined. and melted butter until smooth. Whisk in melted butter. and sprinkle 1 teaspoon pecan 175°F (79°C). Gradually add flour and 2 tablespoons (30 grams) fresh lemon juice Makes 24 salt. In a medium bowl. bite-size desserts are like individual-serving pies. Preheat oven and prepare Cream Cheese Cream Cheese Pastry Dough (recipe follows) for at least 30 minutes. beating until combined. about 15 minutes. Add combine. In a medium bowl.

Cover crust with foil. this Tennessee moniker has become synonymous with Southern baking. whisk together 1½ cups (300 grams) granulated sugar and 3 tablespoons (42 grams) melted unsalted butter. WHITE LILY FLOUR For generations. whisking until combined. a bite of gooey fruit. Don’t expect it to be sour like vinegar.com 61 bake from scratch . and bake until filling is set (and jiggles slightly). UPSIDE-DOWN CAKE The South might not have invented upside-down cake. let’s be honest). remains the prize of the dessert table. Milled from soft red winter wheat. And because this milled grain has lower protein than other available brands. Since every Southern home had at least one skillet—and an upside-down cake is a visual showstopper sure to captivate a church supper audience—the popularity grew. including the Syracuse Herald. from pineapple and cherries to apples. Add 3 large eggs (150 grams). make the vinegar pie filling. or our Tomato Caramel Cornmeal Upside-Down Cake. just without the addition of cornmeal. Place bowl over a saucepan of simmering water. sticky with butter and browned sugar. it produces tender biscuits (the metric for most Southern cooks. 35 to 40 minutes. the term “upside- down cake” first appeared in 1923 in several American publications. cook. but you’d never know it based on the number of recipe iterations found in spiral-bound community cookbooks. Tarte Tatin dates to 1800s France. But one signature move secured its place in the Southern hall of fame: cast-iron skillet baking. there’s nothing like the heft and heating power of a cast-iron skillet to caramelize fruit pressed to the bottom of the pan. Today. your bakes can rise higher. Make our Peach Upside-Down Cake. Southern bakers have tapped White Lily as their flour of choice. page 45. Pour filling into prepared crust. That means soft and fluffy cookies and cakes. This pie has the sweetness and richness of a chess pie. until a candy thermometer registers 175°F (79°C). stirring constantly. Let cool completely. Since 1883. page 67. whitelily. vinegar pie came from cooks who n’t always get their hands on citrus but needed the tang of their baking. Add 1½ cups (341 grams) water and 3 tablespoons (45 grams) apple cider vinegar. Though many pans will work for these baked inversions. VINEGAR PIE er Appalachian favorite. Add 1½ tablespoons (12 grams) all-purpose flour. whisking until combined. After your piecrust bakes. Try this easy recipe: Blind bake your favorite piecrust. and whisk until combined. In a large bowl.

Ü XOCOL ATL SMALL
BATCH CHOCOL ATE
Inside their 220-square-foot micro-factory in Atlanta, Georgia, Elaine
Read and Matt Weyandt produce over five tons of bean-to-bar chocolate
each year. The dark chocolate bars are made using responsibly sourced
single-origin cacao from Peru, Madagascar, Nicaragua, and Ecuador. Add
these bars, with their fruit, date, licorice, and floral notes, to your baking
for a satisfying boost. xocolatlchocolate.com

YELLOW CAKE
cake just sings decadence. It gets its color from using whole eggs
( ften extra yolks) and butter. The more yolks and butter, the richer
llower the cake. Like its cousin white cake, yellow cake tastes
mostly of vanilla. But whereas the more delicate white cake tends to
show up at baby showers and weddings, yellow cake tends to be moister,
denser, and sturdier and belongs absolutely anywhere and everywhere. It
can handle that extra layer of chocolate buttercream. Pack on the fruits
or sprinkle in chocolate chips. Get an extra slice. We’ll call it self-care.

Both sweet and tart, lemon bars are as at home at a ladies’ luncheon as they are at a
ZEST Y LEMON BARS picnic. They’re like the little black dress of Southern sweets. This recipe will keep you
stocked up all summer long.

ZESTY LEMON BARS speed, gradually add flour mixture to butter
Makes about 24 mixture, beating just until combined. Gather
dough into a ball, and flatten into a disk.
1 cup (227 grams) unsalted butter, softened Transfer to prepared pan, pressing into bottom.
3½ cups (700 grams) granulated sugar, divided 4. Bake until lightly browned, about 15 minutes.
3 cups (375 grams) all-purpose flour, divided Remove from oven, and let cool in pan on a
¼ teaspoon kosher salt wire rack.
8 large eggs (400 grams), 5. In a large bowl, whisk together eggs, lemon zest
room temperature and juice, and remaining 3 cups (600 grams)
2 tablespoons (6 grams) lemon zest granulated sugar. Add remaining 1 cup
1 cup (240 grams) fresh lemon juice (125 grams) flour, whisking to combine. Pour
Confectioners’ sugar, for dusting filling onto prepared crust.
Garnish: lemon zest 6. Bake until set, 25 to 30 minutes. Remove
from oven, and let cool completely. Refrigerate
1. Preheat oven to 350°F (180°C). Line a 13x9- for at least 4 hours or overnight. Cut into bars,
inch metal baking pan with parchment paper. and dust with confectioners’ sugar. Garnish
2. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the with zest, if desired. Refrigerate in an airtight
paddle attachment, beat butter and ½ cup container for up to 5 days. •
(100 grams) granulated sugar at medium
speed until creamy, 3 to 4 minutes, stopping to
scrape sides of bowl.
3. In a medium bowl, whisk together 2 cups
(250 grams) flour and salt. With mixer on low

Praise the Maize
F
CORN IS FOR MORE THAN JUST ENJOYING ON THE COB. STEVEN SATTERFIELD, X T CHEF
EXECUTIVE
L
AND CO-OWNER OF ATLANTA'S MILLER UN
UNION AND ONE OF THE MOST REVERED CULINARY
FIGURES IN THE SOUTHEAST, SHARES INNOVATIVE WAYS TO BAKE WITH THIS VITAL HEIRLOOM
BLE THAT HAS BEEN
VEGETABLE E SHAPING THEE SOUTHERN DIET FOR CENTURIES.
FOLLOW STEVEN ON INSTAGRAM AND TWITTER AT
@MILLERUNIONCHEF.

PHOTOGRAPHY BY ANGIE MOSIER
RECIPE DEVELOPMENT AND FOOD
STYLING BY STEVEN SATTERFIELD

Sweet Corn and Gruyère Soufflé
page 67

Sweet Corn Madeleines page 70 Lemon Chess Pie Bars with Cornbread-Graham Crust Sweet Corn and Gruyère Soufflé page 70 page 67 .

Cheddar & Jalapeño Scones page 69 .Sweet Corn.

and zest. Zest of 1 lemon 1⅛ teaspoons (3 grams) fine sea salt. 1 cup (240 grams) whole buttermilk the center when ready. whisk together cornmeal. Fresh chopped kernels elevate room temperature and divided the texture and bring an earthy sweetness to 1. The caramel surrounding the roasted while still warm. combine reserved form. Increase mixer liquids that may have collected from roasting pan. white 1 teaspoon fresh thyme leaves 1 cup (240 grams) whole milk pepper. Remove from heat. In a large saucepan. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the 3.5 grams) baking powder ¼ cup (57 grams) unsalted butter until thickened. soufflé completely set but just barely runny in 7. very carefully fold in spray. whisk attachment. sea salt. Spray a 9-inch cast-iron skillet with cooking whites. Preheat oven to 375°F (190°C). Spray a 2 teaspoons (10 grams) fresh lemon juice this classic soulé technique. Heat over 4. Stir in Gruyère. carefully inverting onto a platter. beating well after each addition. Arrange remaining egg whites in 3 batches with a light roasted tomato slices across bottom of pan but swift touch. Preheat oven to 350°F (180°C). edges of cake with a small knife or spatula down cake. 6 ripe plum tomatoes (603 grams). Whisk in flour. 3. brown sugar. and place in a ⅛ teaspoon ground nutmeg each addition. Carefully fold one-fourth of egg whites into medium-high heat until sugar is dissolved and cooled corn sauce. (Do not overbeat or it will form dry tomato drippings. Bake 6-ounce soufflés for time. Let cool for 15 minutes before plum tomatoes brings their sweeter side to life. and cook over low heat until ½ teaspoon (1 gram) dry mustard bubbles begin to form. the very center. which can make a grainy texture. Add cornmeal mixture to butter mixture. and remaining ⅛ teaspoon salt at low Set roasted tomato slices aside. and lemon juice. Add 1 teaspoon (3 grams) fine sea salt ¼ cup (31 grams) all-purpose flour 1 teaspoon (3 grams) salt. separated 1 teaspoon (3 grams) kosher salt ⅛ teaspoon cream of tartar 1 cup (220 grams) firmly packed light Imagine the lightest. speed to high. 67 bake from scratch . Let cool completely before serving. whisking constantly. cook. SWEET CORN AND GRUYÈRE 1½ cups (208 grams) fresh corn kernels. In a medium bowl. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the 5. and nutmeg. one at a time. and beat until glossy stif peaks 4. roasting pan. thyme. set aside. stirring constantly. covering speed until creamy. and reserve any speed until well combined. Add eggs. the soulé should be barely runny in medium-low heat until foamy. prepared pan(s). whisking well after 2. divided Whisk in corn. (The goal is to have the buttermilk. Be careful not to 2. Roast for 40 minutes. and 1. Remove from oven. Bake remaining 1 cup (227 grams) butter at medium individual 6-cup soufflé about 1 hour.) Serve immediately. Beat in 25 to 30 minutes. air that has been incorporated into whipped 5. Discard skins from cooled tomatoes. beat egg whites. just dreamed up. melt butter over temperature overbake. 6. about 3 minutes. mustard. Bake until cake is set and sides have sprung from edges of skillet. stopping with foil halfway through baking to prevent to scrape sides of bowl. about 4 minutes. ½ teaspoon (1 gram) ground white pepper add egg yolks. fluiest corn pudding you 1½ cups (150 grams) freshly grated Gruyère brown sugar have ever tried. Makes 1 (9-inch) cake 8. SOUFFLÉ chopped in a food processor sliced ½ inch thick and seeded Makes 1 (6-cup) soufflé or 12 (6-ounce) soufflés 6 large eggs (300 grams). stirring by TOMATO CARAMEL CORNMEAL hand until well combined. making sure not to deflate large bubbles form. 1½ teaspoons (7. Sprinkle slices with salt. 4 large eggs (200 grams). This is better than what you cheese 1¼ cups (284 grams) unsalted butter. Gently spoon mixture into neatly and tightly to cover entire surface. cream of and let cool. Pour caramel into prepared pan. room umami of Gruyère cheese. 2 cups (300 grams) fine yellow cornmeal Slowly whisk in milk. 3 to 4 minutes. Spoon batter over UPSIDE-DOWN CAKE tomato layer in pan. one at a excess browning. In a small saucepan. Bake until golden brown and soufflé has risen paddle attachment. tartar. beat granulated sugar and and pufed above rim of pan or ramekins. ¼ cup peaks. cook for 2 to 3 minutes.) (57 grams) butter. baking powder. made even more 6-cup soufflé pan or 12 (6-ounce) ramekins ½ cup (100 grams) granulated sugar indulgent when combined with the undeniable with cooking spray. about 1 hour. Loosen The recipe is a mash-up of tomato pie and upside. whisking to combine.

Tomato Caramel Cornmeal Upside-Down Cake may | june 2018 68 .

and jalapeño to flour mixture. thinly sliced 1 jalapeño (34 grams). including seeds 2 large eggs (100 grams) 2½ cups (380 grams) fresh corn kernels. flattening fat between your thumb and forefinger and breaking it up into pea-size pieces until mixture is crumbly. Preheat oven to 450°F (230°C). In a large bowl. spiked with jalapeño. Work cold butter into flour mixture. Add 69 bake from scratch . and chili powder. 3.) Add Cheddar. coarsely chopped in food processor ½ cup (120 grams) plus 2 tablespoons (30 grams) half-and-half. whisk together flour. scallions. corn. baking powder. (It is fine to have a few larger chunks of butter here and there. sugar. and ½ cup (120 grams) half-and-half. cubed 2½ cups (250 grams) shredded extra-sharp white Cheddar cheese 1 bunch (81 grams) scallions. 2½ cups (313 grams) all-purpose flour 1 tablespoon (12 grams) granulated sugar 1 tablespoon (15 grams) baking powder 2 teaspoons (6 grams) fine sea salt 1 teaspoon (2 grams) ground cumin 1 teaspoon (2 grams) chili powder ½ cup (113 grams) very cold unsalted butter. 2. and spices. SWEET CORN. minced. CHEDDAR & JALAPEÑO SCONES Makes 12 to 14 I love a biscuit or a scone in just about any form. whisk together eggs. cumin. So. divided Flaked sea salt. stirring to combine. salt. In a small bowl. tangy Cheddar. imagine my delight when I discovered how perfectly fresh corn both sweetens and moisturizes the scone dough. for sprinkling 1.

about 20 minutes. about 15 minutes. I mean. Pour filling slice each piece of dough diagonally. It works. may | june 2018 70 . 4. Add chopped corn and melted ½ cup (60 grams) graham flour* butter. knife or a wooden pick. cut dough. 3 large eggs (150 grams) prepared pan. stirring until combined. whisk together buttermilk. Note: If you don’t have madeleine pans. Brush dough with remaining 2 tablespoons temperature with whipped cream. tap the corner of the pan on counter to 6 large eggs (300 grams) 2. ¼ cup (55 grams) firmly packed light brown 3.egg mixture to flour mixture. if desired. You can either leave them out 1.5 grams) kosher salt 2 tablespoons (28 grams) melted butter. them in touch with the Earth’s gravity. Pour batter into prepared pan. Let cool These little corn cakes have lots of lift from egg Dust top of dough lightly with flour. cubed Sweet Cornbread. Add remaining sugar. there might be slightly more crust than you need. They should pop right 1½ cups (300 grams) granulated sugar sugar. In a medium bowl. if desired. Using a sharp knife. whisking on its own! ½ cup (75 grams) fine yellow cornmeal until combined. In a small bowl. and egg. and baking soda. (The dough will be sticky. 1. and baking powder but plenty of butter to keep to 1-inch thickness. and salt. served the following day. processor ¾ cup (170 grams) unsalted butter.) Makes 24 4. whisk together eggs. 9-inch cast-iron skillet or cake pan with 10 to 15 minutes. square cutter. The secret so you will need to keep your hands and the granulated sugar. In a medium bowl. Garnish with 1 teaspoon (5 grams) baking powder (30 grams) half-and-half. Grease a spring back when lightly pressed in center. whisk together eggs graham cracker and transformed into the crust on ½ cup (100 grams) granulated sugar and granulated sugar. and roll completely. In a medium bowl. Remove Whipped cream. The goal is Garnish: grated fresh nutmeg to dry out the cornbread a bit so that it makes a nice crust. flour. and the sweet cornbread is amazing 1 large egg (50 grams) Add cornmeal mixture to egg mixture. y’all. not up the sides. Let cool for 15 minutes. cubed and 1 teaspoon (3 grams) fine sea salt batter into prepared cups. to serve from pan. or pop cubed 2. Remove from oven. 25 to 30 minutes. Bake just until set. stirring until well combined. dried and crisp. In the work bowl of a food processor. nutmeg. salt. sprinkle with confectioners’ 1 tablespoon (9 grams) fine cornmeal whisking until well combined. Bake until golden brown. Preheat oven to 400°F (200°C). Add melted butter and batter and naturally sweetens every bite. and softened 1 tablespoon (14 grams) melted butter. and sprinkle with nutmeg. stirring just until The remainder can be frozen in an airtight SWEET CORN MADELEINES combined and dough holds together. Spoon Sweet Cornbread (recipe follows). 1 teaspoon (3 grams) fine sea salt sea salt. place cornbread in a low oven (200°F/93°C) for dried. Firmly press mixture *Graham flour can be found at most health food to about ¼-inch thickness into a 13x9-inch stores or online. Whole wheat flour can also be baking dish with sides no higher than substituted for graham flour. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper. Remove from oven. is the pulverized sweet corn that permeates the rolling pin floured as well. whisk out. what?? ¼ cup (85 grams) molasses together cornmeal. or freeze for 5 minutes. and cut into 1-inch cubes. about use a mini muin pan instead. molasses. container for future use. Preheat oven to 350°F (180°C). In a small bowl. Turn out dough onto a lightly floured surface. and salt. Add brown sugar and softened butter. Serve at room 1 cup (150 grams) fine yellow cornmeal 6. 1½ cups (208 grams) fresh sweet corn 7.) Using a 2½-inch cornmeal. baking powder. whisking 6 tablespoons (84 grams) unsalted butter. Place on into prepared crust. Note: This can be refrigerated after cooling and kernels. stir the bottom of a lemon chess pie. release madeleines. Refrigerate for 5. Preheat oven to 370°F (188°C). • ⅛ teaspoon grated fresh nutmeg 20 minutes. ½ cup (100 grams) granulated sugar 15 minutes. buttermilk. 2 inches. lemon juice. for a few hours to become stale. If not. cornbread that is baked with the flavor profile of a 1 cup (240 grams) whole buttermilk 2. Bake until lightly browned and slightly 5. filling almost to top dried ½ teaspoon (2. Bake until lightly golden and madeleines sugar 1. gently loosen with the tip of a ¾ cup (180 grams) fresh lemon juice together cornmeal.5 grams) baking soda but not overflowing. pulse until just combined. until combined. Serve warm or room ¼ cup (60 grams) whole buttermilk Add cornmeal mixture to buttermilk mixture. pulse until 20 minutes to speed things up. temperature. 6 tablespoons (84 grams) unsalted butter. Butter and The crust to this pie bar is basically a sweet melted and divided flour 2 (12-cup) madeleine pans. melted LEMON CHESS PIE BARS WITH SWEET CORNBREAD and cooled CORNBREAD-GRAHAM CRUST Makes 1 (9-inch) skillet Garnish: confectioners’ sugar Makes 12 to 15 servings 3 tablespoons (42 grams) unsalted butter. crumbly. (The crust will only go onto the bottom of the dish. roughly chopped in a food Serve hot or at room temperature. and let cool. 3. you can melted 3. Bake until set and golden brown. ½ teaspoon (1.

A CRE I REFRIGER LY CHILLED P B BASED BAKING BLOGGER. PHOTOGRAPHY BY MARCY BLACK SIMPSON / RECIPE DEVELOPMENT AND FOOD STYLING BY KATE WOOD / STYLING BY MARY BETH JONES . SHARES HER COOLEST TAKES ON THE WELL-LOVED TREAT.Th iɪ SOUTHER IS AS MUC I SATISFYIN PIE.

and revel in one of the greatest Southern traditions: baking for and with loved ones.com | INSTAGRAM: @KATIE_CLOVA | FACEBOOK: WOOD AND SPOON . adding contemporary twists to classic Southern desserts. and I plan to pass on my love of food to my two kids. Selma-based Kate Wood puts the “sweet” in Sweet Home Alabama. “Some of my favorite memories are of baking with my Mimi.” says Kate. Growing up in Florida. FOLLOW KATE: thewoodandspoon. but it was her grandmother Mimi who first taught Kate to bake when she was a little girl. “I appreciate how Southerners take time to share their passions with the people that they cherish.” Chill out with an icebox pie. Triple Chocolate Pie page 79 ith her award-winning blog Wood and Spoon. Kate enjoyed her fair share of icebox pies as the frosty finales served at backyard barbecues and summertime birthday parties.

Berries and Cream Pie page 79 73 bake from scratch .

may | june 2018 74 .

Banana Coconut Cream Pie page 78 .

Black Bottom Peanut Butter Icebox Pie page 80 may | june 2018 76 .

Brûléed Key Lime Pies .

Place tart pans on a small 1½ cups (360 grams) heavy whipping cream baking sheet. Preheat oven to 350°F (180°C).5 grams) kosher salt VANILLA-COCONUT CRUST 1. 8 to 10 minutes. Preheat oven to 350°F (180°C). kitchen torch. Pour egg mixture into 1 to 2 hours.5 grams) kosher salt addition to taking part in the eating. In the work bowl of a food processor. whisking constantly. last year in honor of his two favorite desserts. and overnight. and I made these mini pies for my dad on his birthday sprinkle tops with granulated sugar. Let cool slightly. may | june 2018 78 . Layer bananas in bottom of prepared dessert. melted really loves to take a pinch of something and sprinkle speed until soft peaks form. mixture among prepared pans. stirring constantly. coconut. sliced 1. Refrigerate until cold. ¼ cup (50 grams) granulated sugar 6 tablespoons (48 grams) all-purpose flour ½ teaspoon (1. and pulse to combine. Divide whisking constantly. and mixture among prepared crusts. refrigerate 3 tablespoons (42 grams) firmly packed cloud of whipped cream and fresh banana slices. whisk together paper. my daughter whisk attachment. Let stand Add butter and 1½ teaspoons (6 grams) vanilla. Add 1 cup (60 grams) sweetened flaked coconut ⅛ teaspoon kosher salt melted butter. In 4. about 8 minutes. and salt until fine crumbs remain. Cover with a piece of plastic wrap. stirring until combined. and beat until condensed milk thickened and cloud-like. a touch of surprise to what is an otherwise simple BANANA COCONUT CREAM PIE 3. thickened. Add condensed milk and Key Slowly whisk in milk. For best results. I like this pie topped with a at least 4 hours. flour. whisking to combine. 3. pulse to combine. beat cream at medium ¼ cup (57 grams) unsalted butter. cream onto filling.5 grams) Key lime zest 1¼ cups (250 grams) granulated sugar. about 1 cup hot milk mixture into egg yolks. Refrigerate for crackers two Southern favorites. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the ½ teaspoon (1. Add remaining 4 large egg yolks (74 grams) it over the food—the toasted coconut topping gets ¼ cup (50 grams) sugar and remaining 1 (14-ounce) can (396 grams) sweetened her involved in the baking. carefully brûlée tops. make these pies ahead of Makes 1 (9-inch) deep-dish pie Vanilla-Coconut Crust. Note: We used a square baking dish. Let topping complements the tart pie filling and adds cool at room temperature for 10 minutes. Using a cook for 1 to 2 minutes. Garnish: 1 medium banana (113 grams). Makes 4 (4½-inch) pies 11 to 12 minutes. 1 cup (200 grams) sugar. 9-inch square baking dish with parchment 4. pulse 1 to 2 minutes. 1 teaspoon (4 grams) vanilla. In a medium saucepan. Cook 2 minutes more. Dollop whipped 1½ teaspoons (1. In the work bowl of a food processor. divided ¾ cup (45 grams) sweetened flaked coconut sugar. Press mixture into bottom 2. Let cool completely. Cook over medium heat. and remaining hot milk mixture in saucepan. Spoon filling over time and brûlée them just before serving. Divide 2 large ripe bananas (248 grams). 4 large egg yolks (74 grams). and salt until lime zest and juice. Slowly drizzle and halfway up sides of prepared pan. Butter and 2⅔ cups (640 grams) whole milk Makes 1 (9-inch) deep-dish crust flour 4 (4½-inch) removable-bottom tart pans. This Banana Coconut Cream Pie is perfect for the pressing wrap directly onto surface of filling to 1 cup (130 grams) finely crushed graham home baker who doesn’t want to choose between prevent a skin from forming. until mixture is bubbly and fine crumbs remain. gently remove crust. Stir in coconut. until slightly thickened and pale in color. crème brûlée and Key lime pie. pressing into Vanilla-Coconut Crust (recipe follows) melted bottoms and up sides. letting excess extend over sides of pan. In a medium bowl. pulse 3 tablespoons (42 grams) unsalted butter 50 Vanilla Wafers (185 grams) together crushed graham crackers. For best results. Carefully unmold pies. bananas. Bake until set. Using excess parchment as handles. Add melted butter. lightly beaten 2. light brown sugar a sprinkle of toasted coconut is great here as well. and top with banan slices. and salt. brown 2½ teaspoons (10 grams) vanilla extract. but this recipe will also work in a standard round deep-dish pie plate. Line a 3. sliced 6 tablespoons (84 grams) unsalted butter. together vanilla wafers. Bake until set. if ½ cup (120 grams) fresh Key lime juice divided desired. 2. Place egg yolks in a small bowl.BRÛLÉED KEY LIME PIES 5. whisk egg yolks vigorously 1. The burnt sugar for 3 to 4 minutes before serving. Bake until outer edges of pies have set.

come from a long line of them. attachment. flour. Spread completely. stirring constantly. Remove from heat. dark cherries would be a great addition. Place large dollops of meringue on top ¼ cup plus 3 tablespoons (86 grams) sugar. Serve immediately. bean paste to a simmer over medium-low triple chocolate. Refrigerate overnight. buttery pecan. pecans. 7 tablespoons (98 grams) unsalted butter. In a medium bowl. cocoa. whisk together sugar. Cook 2 minutes more. Return mixture to saucepan. and cook. or freeze ½ teaspoon (1. buttermilk. Let cool high speed until stif peaks form. whipped cream onto pie. Add melted butter. Slowly add a chocolate lover’s dream. about 6 minutes. 3 tablespoons (36 grams) sugar at medium. Bake until set.5 grams) kosher salt thickens. stir with a spatula just until combined into large. Refrigerate overnight. divided 2. until mixture fit perfectly with this pie. In a medium saucepan. Add from forming. carefully brown meringue. and ½ teaspoon (1. whisking constantly. lightly beaten prepared Graham Cracker-Pecan Crust.5 grams) kosher salt melted butter. pat (240 grams) cream and remaining ¼ teaspoon cream of tartar remaining mixture into bottom. press-in crust is filled about 5 minutes. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the Chocolate Crust (recipe follows) 10-inch fluted removable-bottom tart pan. stirring constantly. flour. 1. and sweet berry topping. and stir in zest. Fold in 1. together in a wet sand consistency. Slowly With a tangy buttermilk filling. It’s CHOCOLATE CRUST egg mixture. whisk together egg yolks. In a medium saucepan. Slowly whisk in milk. others call for 500°F (260°C) oven until topping is browned. A crunchy. Place egg yolks in a medium bowl. sugar.5 grams) kosher salt ¼ teaspoon kosher salt heat. 5 to 10 minutes. and salt. paddle attachment. beat at high speed until medium- Pat mixture all the way up sides of plate. Pour filling into 4 large egg yolks (74 grams). Pour mixture back into 1¼ cups (250 grams) granulated sugar saucepan. 2 tablespoons (10 grams) cocoa powder 3. 8 to 10 minutes. until mixture is bubbly and Makes 1 (9-inch) pie Makes 1 (9-inch) crust thickened. ¾ teaspoon lemon zest completely in pan. cocoa-scented Swiss meringue topping. whisking occasionally. and vanilla Some days require chocolate. beat remaining 1 cup 4 large egg whites (120 grams) Gently press mixture up sides first. and salt. 6 ounces (175 grams) bittersweet chocolate. Let cool (4 grams) vanilla. about 5 minutes. Let cool for 10 minutes. heat. until 2 cups (400 grams) granulated sugar. remaining 1 cup ⅔ cup (160 grams) whole buttermilk springform pan*. plums. Berries ¼ cup (50 grams) granulated sugar and cook. add chocolate. Cover ¼ cup plus 6 tablespoons (122 grams) 1. Pat mixture into a tall-sided 3. Preheat oven to 325°F (170°C). butter. In a medium bowl. or bake in a (420 grams) cream. from forming. with a piece of plastic wrap. laced crust. and 1½ teaspoons melted (6 grams) vanilla. Using a kitchen 2. and salt. and directly onto surface of filling to prevent a skin 2½ teaspoons (10 grams) vanilla extract. In a medium bowl. 2¾ cups (660 grams) heavy whipping cream. TRIPLE CHOCOLATE PIE of pie. Preheat oven to 350°F (180°C). Cover chopped 2. 3 cups (720 grams) whole milk ½ cup (113 grams) unsalted butter. divided moist clumps. Transfer mixture to 1 cup (170 grams) mixed fresh berries. Bake until set. and I would know—I Makes 1 (10-inch) deep-dish crust remaining hot cream mixture to egg mixture. about 4 minutes. In the top of a double boiler. Pour 5 large egg yolks (93 grams) filling into prepared Chocolate Crust. and stir until mixture comes for at least 3 hours. stirring until smooth. but peaches. 1 cup (200 grams) sugar. and dried *This crust can also be made in a 9-inch pie plate. 2. Cook over simmering water. whisking constantly. the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the whisk hulled. Spread meringue just barely to edges cornstarch. pressing wrap granulated sugar. washed. Top with berries. whisk together divided into bottom and halfway up sides of a 9-inch egg whites. Makes 1 (10-inch) deep-dish pie of crust to prevent weeping. Cook over medium heat. this pie crackers whisking constantly. 79 bake from scratch . melted stirring every minute or so. and remaining 1 teaspoon 1 teaspoon (6 grams) vanilla bean paste 3. 1 cup (130 grams) finely crushed graham drizzle ½ cup hot milk mixture into egg yolks. with a piece of plastic wrap. 1. stif peaks form. until sugar is Graham Cracker-Pecan Crust (recipe follows) crust. stir together crushed directly onto surface of filling to prevent a skin 2½ tablespoons (20 grams) cornstarch graham crackers. Pat mixture 3. dissolved. BERRIES AND CREAM PIE GRAHAM CRACKER-PECAN CRUST whisking constantly. divided ¾ cup (64 grams) dark cocoa powder slightly thickened (about the consistency of 6 tablespoons (48 grams) all-purpose flour ⅔ cup (83 grams) all-purpose flour mayonnaise). smoothing top with an ofset spatula. about quintessentially Southern desserts. bring 1¾ cups torch. Remove ring to release stirring constantly with a spatula. 8 to 10 minutes. and salt. cream of tartar. Remove from ½ teaspoon (1. Whisk in remaining hot represents everything I’ve come to know and love ¾ cup (85 grams) finely chopped pecans milk mixture. Slowly drizzle with a silky bittersweet chocolate custard and a a small amount of hot cream mixture into fluffy. (200 grams) sugar. whisk together Refrigerate until ready to serve. pressing wrap 3 tablespoons (42 grams) unsalted butter cocoa.

1. and stir until mixture comes together in a wet sand consistency. Let cool completely. 1½ cups (150 grams) finely crushed salted Pour ganache into prepared crust. 5 ounces (150 grams) semisweet chocolate. ½ cup (113 grams) unsalted butter. The brown wrap. about 1 hour. at least 2 hours. Freeze until firm. microwave on low in 15-second intervals. let stand for 5 minutes. peanut butter. 1 cup (120 grams) confectioners’ sugar 7. smoothing pretzels to edges. Place chocolate in a small bowl. 6. Pour hot cream over butter pie. beat granulated sugar and Garnish: salted pretzels remaining 1½ cups (360 grams) cream at medium speed until firm. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the brown sugar whisk attachment. Clean bowl of stand mixer. Preheat oven to 350°F (180°C). set aside. Bake until set. Add about ½ cup 8 ounces (225 grams) cream cheese. Cover tightly with a piece of plastic those early slices from my childhood. Uncover and sugar-pretzel crust really amps up the sweet and whisk until smooth. melted Transfer to a medium bowl. just until bubbles form around I’ve enjoyed my fair share of diner-style peanut edges of pan (do not boil). 8 to 10 minutes. if desired. brown sugar. stirring frequently. heat ½ cup plus 2 tablespoons Makes 1 (9-inch) deep-dish pie (150 grams) cream over medium heat. Spoon mixture on top of filling. Add melted butter. and beat to combine. stir together crushed pretzels. remain. until smooth. Freeze until firm. beat cream cheese. Pat mixture into bottom of a 9-inch deep-dish pie plate. 3. Fold in room temperature remaining whipped cream. beat 1½ cups (360 grams) ½ teaspoon (1. stirring between each. Spread filling onto 1 cup (256 grams) creamy peanut butter ganache. 3½ cups plus 2 tablespoons (870 grams) and confectioners’ sugar at medium-high speed heavy whipping cream. If large pieces of chocolate salty factor—always a plus in my book. Clean bowl of stand mixer. divided until smooth and creamy. flufy peaks form.BLACK BOTTOM PEANUT BUTTER 4. and salt. whipped cream.5 grams) kosher salt cream at low speed until stif peaks form. Using the ¼ cup (50 grams) granulated sugar whisk attachment. and this rich version pays homage to chocolate. • pretzels. . ¼ cup (55 grams) firmly packed light 5. Garnish with 2. Using the paddle chopped attachment. In a medium ICEBOX PIE saucepan. In a large bowl.

WE CELEBRATE THIS SOUTHERN STAPLE WITH INNOVATIONS THAT GO BEYOND THE CLASSIC CAKE FORM. TOO. . 5 WAYS WITH THE HUMMINGBIRD CAKE HAS BEEN RACKING UP COUNTY FAIR BLUE RIBBONS AND GRACING SUNDAY SUPPERS AND POTLUCK PICNICS ACROSS THE SOUTH FOR MORE THAN FOUR DECADES. DON’T WORRY—WE’VE GOT THAT.

Hummingbird Bundt Cake page 87 cover recipe PHOTOGRAPHY BY STEPHEN DEVRIES / RECIPE DEVELOPMENT AND FOOD STYLING BY NANCY HUGHES / STYLING BY MARY BETH JONES .

Classic Hummingbird Cake page 87 83 bake from scratch .

Hummingbird Pie page 88 .

Hummingbird Loaf page 87 .

But if you’re in a hurry. PRO TIP 1 cup (113 grams) chopped pecans SPICED COOKIE CRUST ½ cup (44 grams) broken banana chips Makes 1 (13x9-inch) crust Overripe bananas are best for baking. and 3. banana chips. Using excess prepared pan. Sprinkle with pineapple. Spread refrigerating overnight. 2 cups (400 grams) diced fresh pineapple 1⅓ cups (80 grams) sweetened flaked coconut may | june 2018 86 . Line pan with before serving. 35 to 40 minutes. whisk together flour. Firmly press mixture into bottom of 2 teaspoons (8 grams) vanilla extract overnight before serving. Sprinkle over pineapple. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the ¾ teaspoon (1. remove from pan. Fold in mashed banana. These party-perfect bars are creamy. ½ cup (114 grams) mashed banana parchment as handles. beat cream cheese and ½ teaspoon (1. For the best results. Spiced Cookie Crust (recipe follows) cut into bars. 12 ounces (340 grams) cream cheese. sugar. and melted butter until sides of pan. Bake until lightly golden. pastry blender. stopping to scrape sides of ¾ cup (170 grams) unsalted butter. 2. crumbly. stir together coconut. Bake until filling is set. and bowl. cut in butter until mixture is 2 large eggs (100 grams) if necessary. flour a 13x9-inch baking dish. Refrigerate crumbly. parchment paper. 3. Using a ¼ cup (50 grams) granulated sugar covering with foil to prevent excess browning. Preheat oven to 350°F (180°C). about 40 minutes. letting excess extend over pecans. Preheat oven to 350°F (180°C). salt. well combined. we suggest combined. ¼ teaspoon ground nutmeg 3 to 4 minutes. 1. melted add deeper flavor and help keep your baked 2 cups (250 grams) all-purpose flour goods moist.5 grams) kosher salt Makes 24 sugar at medium speed until creamy. They ¼ cup (57 grams) unsalted butter. In a medium bowl. cream cheese mixture onto prepared Spiced 1. beating until well softened and cubed crispy all at once. ½ cup (100 grams) granulated sugar 2. Butter and you can cut that time down to at least 1 hour Cookie Crust. softened 4.5 grams) ground cinnamon HUMMINGBIRD COOKIE BARS paddle attachment. Let cool completely. cinnamon. Add eggs and vanilla. In a medium bowl. Let cool completely. and nutmeg.

1.5 grams) baking powder pecans. Make a well in center Vanilla Glaze (recipe follows) comes out clean. sugar. Pour Cream Cheese Icing parchment paper. In a medium bowl. spoon-licking Cream Cheese Icing. diced 1 teaspoon (4 grams) vanilla extract 1 cup (224 grams) canola oil ½ cup (64 grams) diced dried apricot 3 large eggs (150 grams). In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the softened 4. salt. milk. Beat in vanilla. Refrigerate for at least center comes out clean. 1¾ cups (210 grams) confectioners’ sugar Use immediately. pineapple. toasted ¾ teaspoon (3. 3 to 4 minutes. 25 to 30 minutes. beating until smooth. 3 ounces (86 grams) cream cheese. Add egg. stirring just in pans for 10 minutes. baking soda. and eggs. but the best part is Makes 1 (9x5-inch) loaf better the next day. Beat in vanilla. beating well. Sprinkle pecans in bottom of prepared pan.25 grams) baking soda oil. Line pan with Makes about 5½ cups let cool completely. The pecan- ¾ teaspoon (3. baking powder. Butter and ½ teaspoon (2. Preheat oven to 350°F (180°C). In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with with sweet banana and warm notes of cinnamon. add banana mixture. Preheat oven to 350°F (180°C). and eggs. In a large bowl. Bake until a wooden pick inserted near heat to low. (No stand mixer needed for the cake layers!) laid-back cousin. room temperature 1. beat cream cheese all blanketed in swoops of Cream Cheese Frosting. ¼ teaspoon (1. It requires less effort to make immediately.5 grams) kosher salt 1 teaspoon (2 grams) ground cinnamon cheese mixed in with the batter ensure the perfect ¼ teaspoon ground nutmeg 1 teaspoon (5 grams) baking powder dose of tender crumble and crunch in every bite. Pour batter 1. Spread over pecans. Divide cinnamon. nutmeg. if sides of pan. add banana mixture. beating until smooth. cinnamon. paddle attachment. room temperature nutmeg. This may be the most vivacious loaf bread you’ve ever 3⅓ cups (417 grams) all-purpose flour ½ cup (57 grams) chopped pecans tasted. room temperature 1 cup (200 grams) granulated sugar 1 cup (200 grams) finely chopped fresh 1 large egg (50 grams). Fold in pineapple. 55 minutes to 1 hour. 6½ cups (780 grams) confectioners’ sugar stopping to scrape sides of bowl. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the softened paddle attachment. and liquid has evaporated. 1 hour before serving. room temperature ½ cup (120 grams) whole milk. HUMMINGBIRD BUNDT CAKE the paddle attachment. In a medium bowl. stir together banana. whisk together flour. until moistened. 4 ounces (115 grams) cream cheese. stir in 1. softened Cream Cheese Frosting (recipe follows) 3 large eggs (150 grams). Bits of juicy pineapple and toasty pecan coalesce 1. 1 cup (200 grams) finely chopped fresh room temperature softened pineapple 1 teaspoon (4 grams) vanilla extract ⅓ cup (76 grams) unsalted butter.5 grams) kosher salt cinnamon. half-quick bread. ½ cup (57 grams) chopped pecans. desired. This method. sugar. Garnish: toasted chopped pecans 1 teaspoon (2 grams) ground cinnamon 2. prevent excess browning. Fold in pineapple. Bake until a wooden pick inserted in center oil. Top with toasted pecans. softened CREAM CHEESE ICING butter at medium speed until creamy. and beat until flufy. gradually 87 bake from scratch . salt. vanilla. and let cool completely on wire racks. salt. that tangy. Reduce Cream Cheese Frosting between layers and on 4. Use sugar. ¾ cup (171 grams) mashed banana just until moistened. and and flour a 9x5-inch loaf pan. beat cream cheese and ½ cup (113 grams) unsalted butter. lends a dense. and butter at medium speed until creamy. It tastes even moist and flavorful for days. and simmer until fruit is plump top and sides of cake.75 grams) baking soda 1 teaspoon (3 grams) kosher salt and oat-packed streusel topping and the rich cream ½ teaspoon (1. Little bits of dried apricot deliver intermittent 1⅓ cups (267 grams) granulated sugar 3⅓ cups (417 grams) all-purpose flour bursts of sweet-tart flavor. smoothing top with an ofset spatula. Bananas and whole milk keep the cake HUMMINGBIRD LOAF verges on half-cake. Let cool of flour mixture. With mixer on low speed. Butter and pineapple ½ teaspoon (2 grams) vanilla extract flour 2 (9-inch) round cake pans. Invert cake onto a wire rack. along with the myriad of batter but packs all the same spiced. butter and flour again. stirring 3.75 grams) baking soda 1 cup (227 grams) mashed ripe banana ¼ teaspoon ground nutmeg 1 cup (240 grams) spiced rum ¾ cup (168 grams) canola oil 1½ cups (341 grams) mashed ripe banana ½ cup (64 grams) dried pineapple pieces. You don’t cream the butter and Think of this Bundt as the frosted layer cake’s confectioners’ sugar. Gradually add ¼ teaspoon (1 gram) vanilla extract Makes 1 (9-inch) cake confectioners’ sugar. beating until combined. fruity flavor of the ingredients. Butter CREAM CHEESE FROSTING 10 minutes. beat cream cheese and ¼ cup (60 grams) whole milk. Add milk and This hefty cake is far less diminutive than the bird vanilla. Pecan-Oat Streusel (recipe follows) 3. about 20 minutes. 3. CLASSIC HUMMINGBIRD CAKE 3 to 4 minutes. Preheat oven to 350°F (180°C). In a small saucepan. crumbly texture that original. and ½ cup (57 grams) chopped pecans batter between prepared pans. baking soda. Remove from pans. In a medium bowl. In a large bowl. baking powder. ½ teaspoon (1. covering with foil halfway through baking to Remove from heat. baking soda. stir together banana. 16 ounces (455 grams) cream cheese. letting excess extend over over cooled cake. Make a well in center of 2. Makes 1 (12-cup) Bundt cake at medium speed until creamy. and nutmeg. and apricot to a boil over medium heat. ¼ teaspoon ground nutmeg flour mixture. and an ample pour of 1 teaspoon (2 grams) ground cinnamon 1⅓ cups (267 grams) granulated sugar spiced rum turns up the va-va-voom. sift together flour. flour a 12-cup Bundt pan. Line bottom of Cream Cheese Icing (recipe follows) 1½ cups (188 grams) all-purpose flour pans with parchment paper. sift together flour. Gradually add it’s named for. Add 1 teaspoon (4 grams) vanilla extract Makes about 1½ cups sugar. and let cool completely. Let cool in pan for 2. vanilla. bring rum.

constantly. Fold in banana. sugar. roll dough into Pecan Piecrust (recipe follows) a 12-inch circle. letting ends extend over edges of plate. salt. whisking constantly. and crimp as desired.5 grams) kosher salt ½ teaspoon (1 gram) ground nutmeg HUMMINGBIRD PIE Makes 1 (9-inch) pie If the Hummingbird Bundt Cake is the classic’s carefree cousin. In a medium bowl. oats. covering with foil ½ cup (100 grams) granulated sugar pulse until mixture is crumbly. Refrigerate overnight. Trim excess Makes about ½ cup dough to ½ inch beyond edge of plate. Add pie ¼ cup (31 grams) all-purpose flour egg.) Shape Drizzle Vanilla Glaze over cooled loaf. about 10 minutes more. and 1 hour and 10 minutes. . Remove from heat. ¼ teaspoon ground nutmeg Return mixture to saucepan. Let cool in pan for 10 minutes. then this pie is the charming debutante sister: elegant and homey with just the right amount of sass.add flour mixture to cream cheese mixture. and nutmeg. On a lightly floured surface. Cover with a piece of plastic wrap. stirring prick bottom of crust. Bake until golden brown and a wooden pick room temperature flour. and salt. remove from 2 tablespoons (28 grams) unsalted butter. container for up to 3 days. and wrap tightly in plastic wrap. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with room temperature the whisk attachment. Add cold butter. 1 hour to 1 large egg (50 grams). ¼ cup (20 grams) old-fashioned oats frequently. Pour 1 cup (240 grams) heavy whipping cream. Use immediately. ½ cup (120 grams) whole buttermilk. ¼ cup (28 grams) chopped pecans and pineapple juice over medium heat. • 1½ teaspoons (6 grams) granulated sugar 1. PECAN-OAT STREUSEL Buttermilk Whipped Cream (recipe follows) pressing into bottom and up sides. and nutmeg. Top with room temperature Makes about ½ cup Buttermilk Whipped Cream before serving. Pour through a fine. Refrigerate in an airtight bottom of prepared Pecan Piecrust. cubed beating until combined. room temperature ¼ cup (60 grams) ice water pecans. heat coconut milk edges under. flour. Fold 1. just until bubbles form around 3. cubed moist and hold together when pinched. Top dough with a piece of parchment paper. ½ teaspoon (1. Makes about 1½ cups crumbs remain. discarding solids. ¼ cup (55 grams) firmly packed light edges of pan (do not boil). In a small bowl. Freeze for 20 minutes. whisk together egg yolks. and weights. 4. excess parchment as handles. Let cool Stir in butter and rum until butter is melted. 2 tablespoons (24 grams) granulated sugar ¼ teaspoon kosher salt 2 cups (240 grams) confectioners’ sugar PECAN PIECRUST 3 tablespoons (45 grams) whole milk. Bake until bottom of crust is cubed mesh sieve into a medium bowl. (Mixture may appear crumbly. ½ cup (113 grams) cold unsalted butter. VANILLA GLAZE Refrigerate for 1 to 2 hours. 1. With processor halfway through baking to prevent excess 3 tablespoons (24 grams) cornstarch running. pineapple-coconut cream over banana room temperature slices. In a medium saucepan. brown sugar 2. Place banana slices in two even layers in and large clumps. In a small bowl. pecans. Bake until edges are set and golden. In the work bowl of a food processor. and let cool completely on a wire rack. until thickened. Using a fork. cinnamon. whisk together pecans. place 5. 4 large egg yolks (74 grams). smoothing top with an ofset spatula. Top with Pecan-Oat Streusel. Billowy peaks of homemade Buttermilk Whipped Cream blanket a silky yellow custard. completely. Use immediately. Store in 2 tablespoons (30 grams) light rum dough into a disk. sliced ¼ inch thick 2. room temperature process until combined. the ideal treat for those balmy evenings characteristic of summertime in the South. Makes 1 (9-inch) crust 1. ¼ teaspoon kosher salt ½ cup (57 grams) pecan halves 2 to 3 minutes. and rehydrated fruit. add ¼ cup (60 grams) ice water in a slow. cornstarch. Using directly onto surface of cream to prevent a skin BUTTERMILK WHIPPED CREAM a pastry blender. Gradually add hot weights. pressing wrap brown sugar. cut in butter until pea-size from forming. It should be pan. 1. sugar. inserted in center comes out clean. Refrigerate for at least 30 minutes. Carefully remove paper 3 tablespoons (42 grams) unsalted butter. whisking 15 to 20 minutes. Spoon batter into 1 cup (240 grams) pineapple juice prepared pan. Preheat oven to 350°F (180°C). whisk together all ingredients 1 teaspoon (2 grams) ground cinnamon until smooth. and cook. an airtight container at room temperature for 3 medium bananas (282 grams). ¼ teaspoon kosher salt milk mixture to egg mixture. beat all ingredients at 1 teaspoon (4 grams) vanilla extract 1½ cups (188 grams) all-purpose flour medium-high speed until stif peaks form. Transfer to a 9-inch pie plate. browning. 1 cup (240 grams) coconut milk. Using ½ teaspoon (1. salt.5 grams) kosher salt steady stream just until dough comes together. lightly golden. 5. Squeeze mixture into small 3. up to 4 days.

PHOTOGRAPHY BY MARCY BLACK SIMPSON / RECIPE DEVELOPMENT AND FOOD STYLING BY LAURA CRANDALL / STYLING BY SIDNEY BRAGIEL .

METHODS. cutting them with a glass. Fear not. AND TECHNIQUES BAKED RIGHT IN. An error revolving around several simple ingredients and one perfect. have set in their imaginations. WITH A MASTER CLASS ON THE BEST INGREDIENTS. a relentless trial-and- and even some Southerners. . knowledge—and while cute. Our essential primer rounds up the best them without a timer. doesn’t do the real thing justice. elbows deep golden quick bread. the essential. ROLL-OUT. It’s the Disney version of Southern biscuit-making and. ANGEL. baking of the trademark. practice—is power. THREE TIME-HONORED SOUTHERN BISCUITS GET THE ESSENTIAL TREATMENT. Southern biscuit-baking is a study in obsession. serving them piping hot to a table packed with Deep South wisdom to baking three biscuits central to the Southern greedy guts. inevitably somebody’s grandmother. Southern Biscuits DROP. Because when it comes to biscuit-making.. elderly woman. repertoire.. BY KYLE GRACE MILLS T here’s a romantic ideal of biscuit-making that most Northerners. That Southern bakers make it look so easy is a part in the process of mixing her biscuits.

91 bake from scratch .

shaggy appearance is 2 tablespoons (28 grams) salted butter. and bake it off. cut cold butter into flour mixture using a pastry blender. may | june 2018 92 . 2. (Alternatively. equally sized spring-loaded cookie scoop). DROP BISCUITS Makes 11 This recipe is a breezy wonder. and salt. Georgia Suzanne Vizethann’s enormous drop biscuits have gained a following in no small part thanks to her secret ingredient: She churns her own butter for the restaurant. scoop dough. and stir to combine with remaining flour mixture. chilled excess gluten. your biscuits will merge to create one megabiscuit. and brush with melted butter. (Dough will be sticky and wet. add cold butter. melted what you’re looking for. 1. Serve hot.com. Reduce oven temperature to 375°F (190°C). In a large bowl. stir together flours. sugar. Return mixture to large bowl. and pulse until mixture is crumbly with some pea-size pieces of butter remaining.The Drop Biscuit Southern Semantics: The most efficient variety of biscuits. Using a bench scraper. cut cold unsalted butter into cubes. Remove from oven. 678-732-3274 scoop and drop dough 2 inches apart onto a baking sheet.) 4. and drop 2 inches apart onto prepared pan. baking powder. ½ cup (113 grams) cold unsalted butter 1¾ cups (219 grams) all-purpose flour 1½ cups (187 grams) cake flour 2 tablespoons (24 grams) granulated sugar 1 tablespoon (15 grams) baking powder Once the buttermilk is just incorporated into the 1 teaspoon (3 grams) kosher salt dough. Bake for 8 minutes. stirring just until combined. 20-minutes-or-less quick bread that Southerners have been making since baking powder became readily available in the late 1800s. DROP BISCUIT HALL-OF-FAME: SUZANNE VIZETHANN Buttermilk Kitchen. As long as people continue to crave scratch baking on demand. salted butter. Atlanta. Preheat oven to 400°F (200°C).) Add cold buttermilk. and freeze until ready to use. and bake until golden brown. stop all mixing to keep from producing 1¾ cups (420 grams) whole buttermilk. 8 to 10 minutes more. Place three-fourths of flour mixture in the work bowl of a food processor. Brush top of biscuits with melted. Using a well-greased ¼-cup measuring cup (or creating fresh buttermilk to use in the biscuits. Bakers quickly mix up a batter. This sticky. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper. the drop biscuit will remain a treasured part of the biscuit wheelhouse. If you place them any closer together. with craggy peaked tops that ofer a bit of crunch with the signature soft interior. gently buttermilkkitchen. 3. Using a ¼-cup measuring cup. drop their biscuits on to a sheet. the drop biscuit is Handle Your Dough a no-cut. 5. The final brush with butter? Consider that its brush with greatness.

93 bake from scratch .

Preheat oven to 375°F (190°C). lard. 16 to 18 minutes. stirring just until combined. his roll-out biscuits for one decidedly decadent quick bread. roll out dough. gently fold dough into 1½ cups (340 grams) cold unsalted butter thirds. cut dough without twisting cutter. and bake. 2. like a letter. Using a bench scraper. and brush with melted. salted butter. (Alternatively. this is the grande dame of them all. Serve hot. chilled and divided 2 tablespoons (28 grams) salted butter. surface and tool is well coated in flour. and bake until golden brown. Return mixture to large bowl. add cold butter.5 grams) baking powder 4 teaspoons (12 grams) kosher salt 2 cups (480 grams) plus 2 tablespoons (30 grams) whole buttermilk. may | june 2018 94 . and buttermilk in Using a simple. In a large bowl. Reflour work surface. punch them out. and freeze until ready to use.) Add On a well-floured surface. rolling pin. and roll dough to 1-inch thickness. Turn out dough onto a heavily floured surface. 5. Brush top of biscuits with melted. Keep in mind that the 4. Roll-out biscuits have a thousand different variations.com. the roll-out biscuit refers to the Handle Your Dough overall method of creating these biscuits. and stir to combine with remaining flour mixture. Twisting the biscuit sets his biscuits apart? Their jumbo-bordering-on-cathead size. but the classic buttermilk is perhaps the one that most often comes to mind. cut cold unsalted butter into cubes. Fold dough into thirds. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper. (Since this dough is laminated. Mississippi Known as a lard expert. After brushing your dough with 2 tablespoons (30 grams) buttermilk. John Currence combines butter. 3. Of all the Southern biscuits. salted butter. sugar. Place three- fourths of flour mixture in the work bowl of a food processor. 662-236-2666 rising to the heights you want it to. stir together flours.) Place biscuits about ½ inch apart on prepared pan. The other thing that punch out biscuit rounds. This creates some light 2½ cups (313 grams) all-purpose flour layering. you roll them out. cutter seals the dough of and will keep it from bigbadbreakfast. ¼ cup (50 grams) granulated sugar 3½ tablespoons (52. ROLL-OUT BISCUIT HALL-OF-FAME: JOHN CURRENCE Big Bad Breakfast. ROLL-OUT BISCUITS Makes 12 We took the formula for a roll-out buttermilk biscuit one step further and threw in a flaky twist.The Roll-Out Biscuit Southern Semantics: Like the drop biscuit. 6. Brush dough with remaining 2 tablespoons (30 grams) cold buttermilk. and pulse until mixture is crumbly with some pea-size pieces of butter remaining. A quick brush with buttermilk and a tri-fold of the dough creates light layers in this golden biscuit. straight up-and-down motion. so you’ll want to make sure every rectangle. The rerolls will not match the final product from the first roll. not a complete lamination but enough 2½ cups (312 grams) cake flour to make a flaky biscuit. Refrigerate for at least 30 minutes. with a well-floured 2 cups (480 grams) cold buttermilk. Using a 2½-inch round cutter dipped in flour. making it perfect to split open and butter. it cannot be rerolled like normal roll-out biscuits. Remove from oven. Oxford. cut cold butter into flour mixture using a pastry blender. melted 1. baking powder. and salt. and pat into a 15x6-inch dough is sticky.

.

and baking soda 1. ROLL-OUT BISCUIT HALL-OF-FAME: KARL WORLEY Biscuit Love. and Handle Your Dough baking soda—you can guess how this light. Cover and refrigerate for 1 hour. In Brushing your biscuits with salted butter gives a departure from tradition. served every Easter when he was growing up. about 1 hour. Nashville. 2. Return mixture to large bowl. buttery angel biscuit from his grandmother’s original recipe.25 grams) baking soda 1 cup (240 grams) whole buttermilk A rest in the refrigerator allows the dough to get 2 tablespoons (28 grams) salted butter. cut shortening and cold unsalted butter into cubes. golden top and an additional hit of salt. biscuitlove.The Angel Biscuit Southern Semantics: With three leavening agents—yeast. Brush biscuits with melted. your biscuits a crisp. Place three-fourths of flour mixture in the work bowl of a food processor. and stir to combine with remaining flour mixture. re-patting scraps only once. Turn out dough onto a lightly floured surface. Using a bench scraper. 3. and baking soda. baking powder. ANGEL BISCUITS Makes 11 A cross between a buttermilk biscuit and a Parker House roll. 7.com. Preheat oven to 375°F (190°C). and freeze until ready to use. 12 to 15 minutes. creating biscuits that lean toward cakey. cut cold shortening and cold butter into flour mixture using a pastry blender. With its pillowy softness and golden buttery top. take one bite and you’ll never question its name again. 6. Using a 2½-inch round cutter. melted a nice flavor boost from the yeast. Like a cross between a dinner roll and a biscuit. Cover and let rise in a warm. and let stand until mixture is foamy. cut dough. stir together 2 tablespoons (30 grams) warm water and yeast until yeast is dissolved. baking powder. baking powder. ¼ cup (57 grams) all-vegetable shortening ¼ cup (57 grams) cold unsalted butter 2 tablespoons (28 grams) warm water (105°F/40°C to 110°F/43°C) 1 teaspoon (3 grams) active dry yeast 2 tablespoons (24 grams) granulated sugar 1½ cups (188 grams) all-purpose flour 1¼ cups (156 grams) cake flour 2 teaspoons (6 grams) kosher salt ½ teaspoon (2. Let cool on pan for 5 minutes. and pulse until mixture is crumbly with some pea-size pieces of butter remaining. Stir in sugar. The warm rise allows the yeast. Place on prepared pan. creating a nice puf. these Angel Biscuits will impress any and all at the dinner table. Tennessee Karl Worley took inspiration for his flufy. (Alternatively. Serve warm.) Add yeast mixture and buttermilk. salt. 4. heavenly biscuit got its name. and knead 4 or 5 times. whisk together flours. Pat dough to ¾-inch thickness. salted butter. angel biscuits were sometimes called brides biscuits because they were so foolproof even a new bride could bake them. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper. to activate. In a medium bowl. and bake until golden brown. about 5 minutes. stirring just until dry ingredients are moistened. 5. add cold shortening and cold butter. draft-free place (75°F/24°C) until pufed. In a small bowl.5 grams) baking powder ¼ teaspoon (1. 615-490-9584 may | june 2018 96 . Karl stirs in melted butter instead of cutting in cold butter.

golden biscuits need cold. it’s easy to lose focus. Flaky. For those unwilling to make the arduous choice. just-formed dough. We tend to throw our lot into the butter party. SEPARATING FACT FROM FICTION AND FINDING THE GENUINE WISDOM IN BETWEEN. you can do a combination of both shortening and butter to form a fabulous biscuit (like our Angel Biscuits. both of which contribute to making superior flufy. But it comes down to two opposing forces: taste and texture. The Truth: The fat debate runs deep with Southerners. Just remember to be mindful. AND TRIED-AND-TRUE GENIUS. The Claim: BISCUIT-MAKING IS A HANDS-ONLY EXPERIENCE. and. We find that food processors. The Truth: The hands-only method is born of tradition but doesn’t necessarily help you create great biscuits. tender biscuits. page 96). which requires fast. Texture can be hacked. occasionally. SUPERSTITION. OR EVEN BISCUIT CUTTERS. The Claim: A REAL SOUTHERN BISCUIT IS MADE WITH BUTTER/SHORTENING. creating excess gluten and tough biscuits. WE INVESTIGATE THE POPULAR SOUTHERN BISCUIT THEORIES. but there’s no faking that rich butter taste. biscuit cutters. Shortening has a high melting point and is 100% fat. You can overwork your dough. . FORGET PASTRY BLENDERS. Southern BiscuiT Fact Check ANY SOUTHERNER WORTH THEIR SALT KNOWS THAT BISCUIT-MAKING—AND TRADITIONAL HEIRLOOM BAKING IN GENERAL—CONTAINS A SPECIAL BLEND OF LORE. FOOD PROCESSORS. gentle work. When machines or tools do the work for you. rolling pins aid us in this regard. it beats bland shortening in the flavor department by a mile. Though butter is only 80% fat.

However. The Truth: Seasoned biscuit bakers are partial to the soft wheat flours like Martha White and White Lily. But for the best Southern biscuit.The Claim: BAKE WITH SOFT SOUTHERN WHEAT FLOUR. Soft Southern wheat has a lower protein level than other wheat types. This combo yields enough protein to create a sturdy biscuit. leading to tougher biscuits. experimentation. OR DON’T BAKE AT ALL. page 94). All three of our biscuits contain the powerhouse ingredient and would be all the sorrier without it. . Each one of these biscuits is fabulous—but you still might find a way to make it more of your own. Some. and time. The Truth: Working the dough too much encourages gluten production. like cream biscuits. The one-two punch of acidic tang and rich butterfat is a cherished feature of many Southern biscuits but not all. make it square. which creates less gluten and a more tender baked good. Unless you’re working with a laminated biscuit recipe that depends on maintaining hard-won layers (like our Roll-Out Biscuits. etc. The Claim: IT TAKES YEARS AND YEARS TO MAKE THE PERFECT SOUTHERN BISCUIT. full-fat buttermilk. sub in heavy whipping cream or even plain milk as their main liquid—and these make truly good biscuits. Consider your biscuit your own slice of heaven. The Claim: IF IT DOESN’T HAVE BUTTERMILK. IT’S NOT A SOUTHERN BISCUIT. rerolling or reshaping the dough a couple of times won’t hurt it. it’s worth the trouble to track down high-quality. and not just because they’re venerable Southern brands. we found a quick dupe for our three recipes: blend all-purpose and cake flour. Make it saltier. make it a cathead (see Note. Because these Southern brands can be hard to locate outside the South. NEVER REROLL YOUR DOUGH. The Truth: It’s almost impossible to imagine Southern baking without buttermilk. page 99). The Truth: It takes years and years to make your perfect Southern biscuit. The Claim: UNLESS YOU WANT TOUGH BISCUITS. It’s unique to you and relies on your imagination. but with the tender crumb expected from soft Southern wheat flour. feel free to give it another roll.

it refers only to size (as in biscuits the size of a cat’s head). If you’re looking to go cathead-big with your biscuits. use a 3½-inch biscuit cutter or shape by hand.MAKE IT A CATHEAD A cathead biscuit isn’t a specific type of biscuit. .

.

SOUTHERN 10BAKERS YOU SHOULD KNOW .

BEST BITE: Coconut Pecan Cake. Dol. cream butter and sugar. Alabama Once the consummate unsung hero of Southern pastry. she’s been shining at chef/restaurateur Frank Stitt’s three Birmingham institutions: Highlands Bar & Grill. Since 1982. TECHNIQUES. INTRODUCING NEW FLAVORS. is a homegrown talent. Now that the long overdue accolades are pouring in.MEET THE TEN STANDOUT BAKERS WHO ARE FLIPPING THE SCRIPT SCR PT ON SOUTHERN BREAD AND DESSERTS. tropical classic that pops up on the menu all season long. Dol can meet any pastry challenge. AND CULTURES TO THE TRADITIONAL DIXIE FORMULA BY SOPHIA JONES AND KYLE GRACE MILLS Dolester Miles Highlands Bar & Grill | Birmingham. Birmingham locals can take pride in what they’ve long suspected is true: They possess one of the greatest pastry talents not only in the South but in the United States. As long as it adheres to the rule of seasonality. taught at her mother’s Alabama table how to whip a fluffy meringue. Chez Fonfon. and Bottega. and bring together a to-die-for piecrust. as her friends lovingly call her. Dolester Miles crafted world-class pastry for over 30 years before nabbing her first James Beard Award nod. Dol creates masterful pastries and indulgent homespun desserts. FOLLOW: highlandsbarandgrill.com | @highlandsbarandgrill . a nutty. whether it’s perfecting the classic Southern pound cake or executing a traditional French dacquoise. like a delicate trio of profiteroles draped in chocolate sauce or Vanilla Bean Crème Caramel.

and cayenne-infused clementine soufflé and a creamy tres leches cake with sweet Southern strawberries. BEST BITE: Sourdough Beignets. Georgia In the South. like her coconut. so our adoration for Carrie Morey should be self-explanatory. A dinner at Atlanta’s Bacchanalia is a four-course riot of incredible FOLLOW: calliesbiscuits. where her team cranks out thousands of authentic handmade biscuits daily. making each biscuit with extra butter and cream cheese. we take our biscuits as seriously as we take good manners. Georgia sprinkle-filled treat that has the taste of cake with the texture of a biscuit. Carla shows a knack for unusual but ingenious pairings. Yet @calliesbiscuits | @callieshotlittlebiscuit rising above the noise are pastries by Carla Tomasko.com food. FOLLOW: starprovisions. a twist between French patisserie and American bread that creates one tangy. The secret to these biscuits favored by the likes of Oprah? Carrie never strays from her mom’s golden recipe. It’s easy to get carried away with the onslaught of foie gras. Overall. puffy pastry. With biscuits sold in cafés and grocery stores from California to Connecticut. like the divine yet wicked decision to couple her crisp pain au chocolat with bourbon-frothed milk or the earthy pairing of chocolate cake with olive oil ice cream. she founded the first grab-and-go restaurant Callie’s Hot Little Biscuit in Charleston. South Carolina and Atlanta. Carrie is sustaining and spreading the Southern biscuit- making tradition nationwide. The entrepreneurial mom of three has built a biscuit empire on the foundation of her mom Callie’s original recipe and her own by-hand method. rainbow Bacchanalia | Atlanta. Carla Tomasko BEST BITE: Confetti Biscuit. In 2014. Carrie Morey Callie’s Hot Little Biscuit | Charleston.com/bacchanalia | @carlatomasko 103 bake from scratch . dry-aged beef tartare. Carla isn’t confined by any one source of cultural inspiration. ensuring that every buttery bite of gold gets the TLC it deserves. a secret-menu. and perfectly seared honey lavender duck. and her worldly take on pastry is proof of that. Carrie launched Callie’s Charleston Biscuits in 2005 to sell her buttermilk biscuits online and wholesale. Traces of her own Ecuadorian upbringing often slip into her creations.

FOLLOW: kindreddavidson. a blend of Southern cornmeal and ripe blueberries with a surprising topping of floral hibiscus powder and tangy buttermilk ice cream. like her delicately crisp pita topped with whipped feta and honey. It’s upscale comfort with a sly wink at tradition. fluffy Japanese Milk Bread as its base and the South’s obsession for bread pudding as its inspiration. Georgia. nixing the stuffiness but keeping the humble joy. Justin Burke-Samson FOLLOW: butcherandbee. South Carolina Southern-born and French-trained.com | @cynthiawongster Kindred Restaurant | Davidson. BEST BITE: Milk Bread Pudding. North Carolina Splitting his sweet skills between Kindred Restaurant in Davidson and the new venture Hello. though. even the small projects deserve perfection. Don’t be fooled by the cute nostalgia. unaffected style of pastry. His recipes are a lesson in refined taste—just with a warm. with no throwback too old to be reinvented. For this pastry chef. Poke cakes. North Carolina. She’s introduced diners to the nutty charm of Pink Lady Tarte Tatin set in a black sesame puff pastry. BEST BITE: Phatty Cakes. Justin Burke-Samson is a pastry chef who plays with his food. and the complementary smokiness of Lapsang Souchong tea in the Smoky Chocolate Tartlet. sentimental heart at its center. Cynthia Wong Butcher & Bee | Charleston. Cynthia has settled into her home city of Charleston as the head pastry chef at Butcher & Bee where she continues to serve up exciting flavor pairings. After inspiring cult loyalty for her baked goods at Cakes and Ale in Atlanta. Cynthia Wong is dialing up the surprise factor of pastry in the South. ginger cookies with a vanilla mascarpone filling that perfectly capture her comforting. just one of his many creations that makes use of rich. and even the crushed Oreo-and-pudding classic Dirt Cups can be found in his repertoire. Cynthia is also lauded for her dead- simple triumphs. the tart magic of pickled blueberries with Lemon Semolina Cake. icebox pies. Take his whimsical recipe for Blueberry Masa Upside-Down Cake. Sailor in Cornelius.com | @justinbsamson may | june 2018 104 .

Her rotating selection of chess pies—running the gamut from peanut butter to chocolate to buttermilk—offers a glimpse of her pantry sensibility while her inspired treats like her Peanut- Muscadine Tart and Blackberry Malted Cream Pie show her creative respect for local and in-season ingredients. Phoebe offers pies. BEST BITE: Coconut Orange Dream Cake. Amanda Faber FOLLOW: piefantasy. and Warhol acting as inspiration. so we weren’t surprised when Atlanta-based stay-at-home mom Amanda Faber won the second season of The Great American Baking Show. not a home-based catering service. Pollack. But one bite into her Shaker Lemon Pie. Amanda has transcended her title of superior amateur baker to a promising. a show she co-hosts with fellow GABS alum Jeremiah Duarte Bills. North Carolina What makes Phoebe Lawless’s pies so special? On the golden. flaky surface. pastries. With the likes of Matisse. FOLLOW: amandaefaber.com | @amandaefaber . they appear like any other buttery pastry you can find at a number of bakeries in the South. At Scratch Bakery in Durham. and you know you’ve tasted true treasure.com). marmalade-like lemon filling with an all-butter double piecrust. a dreamsicle in cake form that includes vanilla cake slathered in orange cream frosting and topped with toasted coconut fluff (recipe available on amandaefaber. Phoebe Lawless Scratch Bakery | Durham. In record time. up-and-coming professional. Amanda now brings her Southern charm and baking prowess to the influential baking podcast realm with Flour Hour. with its rich double crust and rinds-and- all macerated lemon filling. BEST BITE: Shaker Lemon Pie. Amanda treats her cake like canvas. a sweet and sour pie that pairs a tart. Georgia The South produces some of the best home bakers in the world.com | @scratchdurham Cake Artist and Flour Hour Podcast Cohost | Atlanta. and cakes that respect a Southern ideal of frugality and seasonality. This victory was the final push she needed to launch her own mail-order baking business. creating technicolor buttercream designs with a level of imaginative sophistication you’d expect from MoMA.

BEST BITE: Cast Iron Cinnamon Roll. neighborhood coffee and pastry shop Killebrew. multilayered masterpiece. a savory pastry that blends their Turkish upbringing. The love is mutual.A. Tennessee Evrim Dogu & Evin Dogu FOLLOW: thompsonhotels.000 to help rebuild. After a devastating fire in 2013 destroyed the original bakery. laminated buttermilk biscuits is a square-shaped. Lisa brings some “sexy” to Southern comfort-inspired baked goods. served at Killebrew daily and at Marsh House on weekends. including Drop the Mic. The brother- sister team behind Sub Rosa Bakery fills their wood-fired spot with pastries and bread that recall the Old-World baking of their Turkish heritage. Jackson. Jackson. the hotel’s swanky rooftop restaurant and bar. bringing artisan baking to Richmond and supporting local farmers. Receiving equal fanfare is their commitment to fresh—like flour milled by hand in the bakery—and locally sourced ingredients. French patisserie technique. a cold mash-up of Oreos. FOLLOW: subrosabakery. Turkish pastries filled with lamb. and whoopie pie.com | @subrosabakery • . BEST BITE: Lamb Borek. and locally sourced Southern produce. ice cream. Marsh House’s dessert menu is pure poetry.Lisa Marie White Thompson Nashville | Nashville. and feta and folded like an empanada. a shortbread biscuit packed with onion. After helping establish New Orleans’ award- winning Willa Jean Bakery. or their take on their grandmother’s pogaca. and L. pillowy perfection drizzled with tangy glaze made with buttermilk from Cruze Farm Dairy in Knoxville. a testament to the South’s deep- seated respect for good people and great bread. potato. Their bakery is a twofold gift to the Southern community. As the boutique hotel’s executive pastry chef in residence. Lisa offers an assortment of playful ice cream sandwiches. Lisa moved to Nashville in 2017 to build the pastry and bread programs at the ultra-chic Thompson Nashville’s three food and beverage concepts: seafood restaurant Marsh House. Tennessee Lisa Marie White is quickly becoming queen of the Music City dessert scene. like savory boreks.A. At L. With game changers like Bourbon Banana Mousse (a cross between bananas Foster and banana pudding).com @pastrygirllisa Sub Rosa Bakery | Richmond. baking is a family affair. Every one of her tender. Virginia For Evrim and Evin Dogu. devoted fans raised nearly $30.

origin of a classic Lane Cake HOW A DECADENT LAYER CAKE WENT FROM HYPER-LOCAL LEGEND TO A KEYSTONE OF SOUTHERN BAKING BY JULIA BAINBRIDGE RECIPE DEVELOPMENT AND FOOD STYLING BY ELIZABETH STRINGER MARY BETH JONES STYLING BY .

the formula for recipe virality in the early 20th century: deliciousness.) Successive printings of her book show a title change to Some Good Things to Eat as well as a recipe name change to “Lane Cake. and vanilla extract that signaled it was meant to be enjoyed during the winter holidays. yes.” traveled from her home in Clayton. “but through the courtesy of Mrs. competitive success. so teachers would come through town and show ladies how to bake something a little out of the ordinary that made a good show and had a story behind it.W  ’ hat did “going viral” look like in the early 20th century? The story of how Lane Cake became a critical part of the deep Southern vernacular provides a good case study. These were the layer cake’s glory days. but she can be credited with setting it on its path to fame. to Columbus. (Not exactly the rapid circulation of today!) Timing didn’t hurt. “The fact that she won and that she was from that little town was a big deal. Some years before that. Lane. Lane some attention. she probably would have been written about—and certainly talked about. was hers boozy.” Its standout feature was its filling. Turn back the clock to 1898. a boiled white frosting to conceal the marvels inside. containing a recipe for “Prize Cake. “My ex-partner would’ve had a stroke if he couldn’t eat Lane Cake at Christmas. “Another factor in the popularity of these cakes was that there were a lot of free cooking schools. (This is the power of publishing as well as the gift of leisure time that affords someone entrance in a baked good competition some 60 miles away from her kitchen. young mother of four.” says Anne Byrn. bourbon. the ability to print. a rich mixture of egg yolks. “One of the hardest things about that relationship ending was losing my mother-in-law. and they were convinced to use them as baking powder companies were spending money to advertise in ladies’ magazines. Janie McDowell Pruett of Eufaula.” The latter was done “not by my own conceit. it was decadent. and boy. so that the bourbon-laced layer cake might compete in the state fair. seedless raisins. and a handful of decades. Georgia. She was from Talladega. whom the Georgia Entertains cookbook called “a beautiful. because home cooks now had reliable cast-iron stoves and ovens. It won first place—hence the name—and it won Mrs. Alabama. . Alabama. butter. It was so good.” says Anne. and parts of Georgia—holidays wouldn’t be complete.” So.” Something just like Lane Cake. from the 1890s to the 1940s.” wrote Lane. Lane Cake became the dish without which—for many Southerners from Mississippi.” says food historian and author Damon Lee Fowler. And while. “So. A Few Good Things to Eat. author of American Cake. when a woman named Emma Rylander Lane self- published a cookbook. it was also economical as its four layers of sponge cake were made with egg whites left over from separating out the yolks for that custard-like filling. Alabama. To finish.” Between then and World War II. who made the Lane Cake. sugar. Alabama.” Whether or not Lane was the architect of the recipe is unclear. “Gas companies were trying to sell the new gas ranges.

“As a child. “remembering that sideboard of cakes from 50 years ago—Lane Cake most of all—evokes and conjures vivid the memory of my early self and all those people. “In a time when so much is watered down and blurred. an Alabama- born chef and champion of Southern food in all its diversity. how far in advance is up for debate.” . and some teetotaling families opted for grape Alabama claimed Lane Cake as its official state cake just two years juice. “More than anything else I know. added maraschino cherries. now mostly gone.” says Scott Peacock. Some put dates into the mix instead of raisins.” (Another popularity point: Tucking a little liquor into your dessert sure is fun. but perhaps the ultimate tribute to Lane Cake—the one that Jim Merrill Pianowski.” as narrator Scout puts it. Alabama. who lent her Lane Cake recipe to Anne for her introduced this hyper-local delicacy to an international audience—is that it appears in To Kill a Mockingbird. Some made a white have become musts. they knew what Lane Cake was—and they that the cake should be made in advance to let the flavors mellow. I am proud of the distinction. he came to realize that Lane Cake wasn’t part of every family’s holiday table in elementary school. “it made me tight. who made me. has the Finch family’s neighbor Maudie Atkinson bake a Lane Cake “so loaded with shinny.” he says. that made me uneasy. He says that even growing up in Hartford. Now. Most versions of the recipe agree South knew who Lane was. Pecans and freshly grated coconut and some cooked a white icing like in the original. sponge cake. whether or not people living in that region of the book. and the late Mary ago.) That some Southerners consider Lane Cake iconic and some have never heard of it is part of the beauty and complexity of Southern food.” he continues.By the 1920s and ’30s. who grew up three hours away from Clayton in the 1930s and ’40s. and others made a golden batter. some used wine. Some iced the exterior with more of the filling. I like that Lane Cake is still specific to a particular place. Author Harper Lee. Some used bourbon or brandy. but had made it their own. the way being different often does at that age.

until mixture is very thick. set aside. Spread Lane Cake Frosting on top and sides of cake. Remove from heat. in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the whisk 6. avoiding whisk. Let stand for 5 minutes. 4 to 5 minutes. and salt. bring all ingredients to a boil over high heat. coconut. Let cool in pans for 10 minutes. ¼ cup (60 grams) bourbon 5. Beat until frosting cools to room temperature and has a spreadable consistency. Spread warm Lane bourbon to a boil over high heat. and 3. beat egg whites at medium-high speed until stif peaks 2 hours. Stir in egg yolks until well butter and sugar at medium speed until flufy. LANE CAKE FROSTING beating just until combined after each addition. Stir in sugar until combined. Meanwhile. Reduce heat to low. Remove from pans. 1. cook pecans and butter over medium heat until 2. cook. Preheat oven to 350°F (180°C). cherries. ½ cup (120 grams) water. Wrap tightly in until a candy thermometer registers 248°F (120°C). ½ cup (120 grams) bourbon Brushing Bourbon Simple Syrup on the cake layers before frosting and ½ cup (120 grams) water adding a touch of bourbon to the frosting heightens the aromatic boozy flavor the cake is known for without overpowering it. To brighten the color and flavor. beginning and ending with flour mixture. plastic wrap. 1. With mixer running. Gently fold egg whites into ½ cup (120 grams) water batter in thirds. Butter and flour 3 (9-inch) round light-colored cake pans. Let 1 cup (227 grams) unsalted butter. beat butter is melted. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment. bring sugar. steady stream. Clean bowl of stand mixer. remove from heat. Use immediately. Leftover cake can be stored in an airtight container at room form. 4. and pecans. While still slightly warm. Beat in extracts. Bake until a wooden pick inserted in center comes out clean. we used a 1 cup (200 grams) granulated sugar combination of golden raisins and dried cherries instead of regular raisins. 2. raisins. stir in coconut. Use immediately. brush 1. stopping combined. Serve within attachment. and each cake layer with Bourbon Simple Syrup twice. Refrigerate in an airtight container for up to 2 weeks. pour hot sugar mixture into egg whites in a temperature for up to 3 days. In a medium bowl. leaving a ¼-inch border. and simmer for 10 minutes. slow. • may | june 2018 110 . In a small saucepan. beat egg 2 cups (400 grams) granulated sugar whites at high speed until stif peaks form. whisk together flour. Reduce heat to medium-high. 2¼ cups (450 grams) granulated sugar 1 teaspoon (4 grams) vanilla extract LANE CAKE FILLING ½ teaspoon (2 grams) almond extract Makes about 4 cups 3½ cups (437 grams) cake flour 1 tablespoon (15 grams) baking powder 1½ cups (170 grams) chopped pecans ¼ teaspoon kosher salt ½ cup (113 grams) unsalted butter 1 cup (240 grams) whole buttermilk 1¼ cups (250 grams) granulated sugar 8 large egg whites (240 grams) 8 large egg yolks (149 grams) Bourbon Simple Syrup (recipe follows) 1 cup (60 grams) sweetened flaked coconut Lane Cake Filling (recipe follows) ½ cup (64 grams) golden raisins Lane Cake Frosting (recipe follows) ½ cup (64 grams) chopped dried cherries ⅓ cup (80 grams) bourbon 1. stirring occasionally. softened cool completely. In a medium saucepan. this cake’s traditional filling tends to be dark and overly sweet. and refrigerate for at least 6 hours or overnight. and cook Cake Filling between layers. Lane Cake Makes 1 (9-inch) cake BOURBON SIMPLE SYRUP Makes about 1 cup With cooked raisins. and let cool completely on wire racks. baking powder. bourbon. With mixer on low speed. 6 large egg whites (180 grams) 18 to 20 minutes. Using the whisk attachment. gradually add flour mixture to butter mixture alternately with buttermilk. about 10 minutes. Transfer batter to a large Makes about 5 cups bowl. 3 to 4 minutes. Divide batter among prepared pans. to scrape sides of bowl. In a medium saucepan.

test kitchen technique 111 bake from scratch .

WE DIVE DEEP INTO THE THREE MAIN METHODS. if necessary). Method: Begin with cold butter. and cold hands (plunged in an ice water bath a cold pastry blender (refrigerate. Slice cold butter into Slice cold butter into cubes or pats with a sharp knife. the end result of cutting in butter should look like this. cold flour. AND COBBLER TOPPINGS (PAGE 45)? CUT COLD BUTTER INTO FLOUR UNTIL YOU HAVE PERFECT TINY LUMPS. Slice cold butter into cubes or pats with a sharp and dried. are small pea-size lumps and covered in flour. perfectly flaky layers. Scatter butter knife. cutting in butter THE BEST WAY TO CREATE TENDER SCONES (PAGE 69). so be prepared to give this step your undivided attention. BISCUITS (PAGE 92). and it’s the best way to make sure you’re not overworking the dough. you risk having the butter overprocess the mixture and begin to cream it. shallow of a food processor. heat of your hands or the room into the equation. Pro: The fastest. HIGHLIGHTING THEIR PROS AND CONS. and. ideally. you can slice in the butter. Scatter butter over flour in the work bowl cubes or pats with a sharp knife. a pastry blender. not to mention the unable to get those ideal lumps of butter back. cold flour. Once the mixture is overprocessed. thumb and fingertips. shallow bowl. Con: The heat from your hands will threaten come to room temperature during the process. processing your butter into the flour Pro: This method ofers the baker the greatest the exact size of the butter lumps without ensures even incorporation without bringing the amount of control in determining the size of their adding heat from your hands. or a food processor. Whether using your hands. rub butter into flour in a working up and down until all butter pieces are 5 to 10 times. snapping motion until all butter pieces are small small pea-size lumps and covered in flour. process is the most time-consuming of the three. • Cutting in butter guarantees that the cold pieces of fat melt in the oven. if necessary). RECIPE DEVELOPMENT BY EDD KIMBER AND ELIZABETH STRINGER / PHOTOGRAPHY BY MARCY BLACK SIMPSON / STYLING BY SIDNEY BRAGIEL may | june 2018 112 . pea-size lumps and covered in flour. Press down on butter with pastry blender. most eicient method of the Pro: This method allows you to properly control bunch. Pulse until all butter pieces over flour in a wide. creating steam. and Method: Begin with cold butter and cold flour. you’ll be softening the cold butter. Con: Because it takes more time to manually Con: If you’re not keeping an eye on it. Scatter butter over flour in a wide. BY KYLE GRACE MILLS BY HAND BY PASTRY BLENDER BY FOOD PROCESSOR Method: Begin with cold butter. butter pieces. moisture. Using your bowl.

divided 1 tablespoon (15 grams) water. In a small bowl. and beat for 5 to 7 until an instant-read minutes. Drizzle with Caramel Pecan Glaze. gradually add yeast mixture. and the entire rise may take place in “windowpane.) (105°F/40°C to 110°F/43°C) 6.” If dough tears. beating 10. ½ cup (120 grams) warm whole milk the refrigerator overnight. cut sides up. vanilla. 4. pinching and tucking ends to 5 minutes. and gently press into dough. and pecans. combine ⅛ teaspoon kosher salt unsalted butter. softened and divided brown sugar. cookie-size candies surface of dough with plastic wrap. whisk together egg white and ¼ cup (57 grams) unsalted butter 2¼ teaspoons (6. and vanilla. (Alternatively. seal. and bake speed to medium-high. draft-free place (75°F/24°C) until Pinch of (make sure you don’t tear dough) a commemorate the confection’s sweet nuttiness doubled in size. draft-free place paddle attachment. (If dough is getting too warm 1 minute. Makes 1 (9x5-inch) loaf from sides of bowl. 3½ tablespoons (42 grams) granulated sugar 7. Caramel Pecan Glaze (recipe follows) 15 to 20 minutes before proceeding. Place Developed in the early 19th century in New dough in bowl. melt butter over 1½ cups (330 grams) firmly packed dark one short side. pralines are creamy. In a medium saucepan. until dough comes together. (88°C). and 1¾ teaspoons (5. Starting with 1. letting each addition parchment paper as incorporate before adding the next. If dough is ready. trim ends. jelly roll style.25 grams) salt. add cool in pan for 10 ½ cup plus 2 tablespoons (141 grams) butter minutes. sugar. Spray a large bowl with cooking spray. you will be able pecan-laden babka. dough can be made 1 day in to stretch it until it’s thin and translucent like a advance. Stir 9. Test dough using the windowpane test thermometer inserted in (see Pro Tip). Beat until a handles. Let mixer on medium-high speed. In a small bowl. 1½ to 2 hours. roll up dough. With mixer on (180°C). cook for brown sugar pinch seam to seal. boil for 2 minutes. Preheat oven to 350°F in eggs. With minutes more. Bake for 30 minutes. stirring constantly.5 grams) salt. Add brown sugar. Slowly pull dough out and melt-in-your mouth magic with a pillowy 5. In a small bowl. butter. pecans. • yeast. about around each other. and remaining ½ teaspoon ¼ cup (28 grams) chopped toasted pecans 1 large egg white (30 grams) (1. small piece of dough. ½ cup (110 grams) firmly packed dark brown 2 large eggs (100 grams) 8.75 grams) active dry yeast spray. it’s not ready. beat center registers 190°F 1 minute more. egg yolk. combine flour. and cut roll in half pecans. Let cool slightly 1. stir together warm milk and lengthwise. remove from .back page babka praline pecan BABK A ONE OF THE SOUTH’S MOST ICONIC CONFECTIONS INSPIRED THIS ISSUE’S RIFF ON THE TWISTED BREAD WE CAN’T GET ENOUGH OF PRALINE PECAN BABKA smooth and elastic dough forms and pulls away pan. and medium heat. from center. Place in prepared pan. Sprinkle sugar mixture over 1 tablespoon (14 grams) water butter. Let stand until mixture is foamy. Using excess in three additions. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the and let rest in a warm. and bring to a boil.75 grams) kosher salt. stir in a bench scraper. We in a warm. low speed. 30 to 35 3. Refrigerate dough for at least 30 minutes. Spray a 9x5-inch loaf pan with cooking CARAMEL PECAN GLAZE 1¼ teaspoons (3. Line pan with parchment paper. roll dough into sugar 1 large egg yolk (19 grams) 16x12-inch rectangle. Spread remaining ¼ cup (57 grams) ½ teaspoon (2 grams) vanilla extract ¾ cup plus 2 tablespoons (198 grams) butter onto dough. turning to grease top. If dough is not ready. Switch to the dough hook attachment. On a heavily floured surface. Cover 2. Brush edges of dough with ½ cup (120 grams) heavy whipping cream 1 teaspoon (4 grams) vanilla extract egg wash.) Using stirring constantly. Carefully twist dough pieces tightly before using. refrigerate for and salt. ¾ cup (85 grams) finely chopped pecans and diicult to work with. made of brown sugar. granulated (75°F/24°C) for 30 minutes. Increase mixer Cover with foil. Remove from heat. letting Makes 1¼ cups 2½ cups (313 grams) all-purpose flour excess extend over sides of pan. Add cream. Cover PRO TIP Orleans. and test again. and let cool completely on a wire rack. and let rise Test dough for proper gluten development.