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KLASNO-SOCIJALNE TEORIJE

MODE

Socijalne teorije mode
• svjedoče o različitim odčitavanjima društvenih i kulturnih praksi i različitim
načinima uspostavljanja subjektiviteta (Đ. Bartlett, Moda;povijest, sociologija i teorija
mode,2002.)

• klasne,
• modernističke,
• antropološke,
• psihoanalitičke,
• semiotske,
• feminističke
• postmodernističke

Klasne teorije mode

• značajni autori: Georg Simmel,Thorstein Veblen

• Veblen: -stvarna(upotrebna) i simbolička(znakovita) funkcija odjeće,
-elita kao pokretač/stvaratelj mode

• Simmel: - trickle-down theory (teorija laganog kapanja),
- individualizacija/imitacija

• prema njima, moda se stvara među privilegiranom elitom

It not only shows that the wearer is able to consume a relatively large value. but it argues at the same time that he consumes without producing. but also because it is the insignia of leisure.” . Veblen – Teorija dokoličarske klase • „Elegant dress serves its purpose of elegance not only in that it is expensive.

it must at the same time be up to date.• Dress must not only be conspicuously expensive and inconvenient. .

in fact. • Trickle-down teorija „…the fashions of the upper stratum of society are never identical with those of the lower. Simmel – „Fashion” .” . 1904. they are abandoned by the former as soon as the latter prepares to appropriate them.

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Trickle-across .

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Trickle up .

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it furnishes a general condition. At the same time it satisfies in no less degree the need of differentiation. „Fashion is the imitation of a given example and satisfies the demand for social adaptation... which resolves the conduct of every individual into a mere example.” . Simmel – „Fashion”. the tendency towards dissimilarity. 1904. the desire for change and contrast. • Pojava pojma individualnosti i demokratizacija mode 60-tih g. it leads the individual upon the road which all travel.

” . uno actu. namely. the need of union on the one hand and the need of isolation on the other.its sway will abruptly end. fashion will not be formed . Should one of these be absent. the exclusion of all other groups. the uniformity of a circle characterized by it. and.„Thus fashion on the one hand signifies union with those in the same class.” „Two social tendencies are essential to the establishment of fashion.

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Altagama. 2002 • https://museeyslparis. D. 130-155. Literatura • Paić. G. sociologija i teorija mode. Ž. Školska knjiga.com/en/biography/saint-laurent-rive-gauche . Zagreb 1985 • Simmel.: Moda: Povijest. 1904 • Veblen.:The Theory of the Leisure Class: An Economic Study of Institutions. 1899 • Bartlett. G.: Vrtoglavica u modi. Zagreb.: Fashion. International Quarterley 10.

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