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Installation for Hand Wound Reproduction Door Lock Springs

Michael Shimniok – V2.0.1

Intro

Thank you for purchasing my Hand Wound Reproducti n Door Lock Springs for your o FSJ. If you find yourselves annoyed with your doors locking themselves, denying entrance to friends and fami y, and annoying them in the process, these springs l have been engineered to fix that problem. Now, these aren’t machine made springs so they may not look perfect, but each spring is tested on a door lock mechanism and compared to an OEM door lock spring to ensure it is as close as possible to the original in form and function.

Features
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Low cost (less than 1/100th the cost of NOS latches1!) Fixes the “auto locking” problem Mimics OEM form and function Right and left springs just like Jeep intended Every spring hand tested in door lock mechanisms Each spring compared to OEM template Heat treated to increase spring life new! Lots of up-front R&D you don't have to do yourself

Conventions

These instructions cover both older and newer rigs. Pictures for newer rigs will be pictured in the right most column, and pictures for older rigs in the leftmost column. Instructions and pictures for newer rigs will be labeled 1979½ - 1991 while pictures for older rigs will be labelled Pre-1979½

Disclaimer

Door lock springs are available for the two types of FSJ latches. The springs for 1979½ to 1991 FSJ are reproductions of later model FSJ door latch torsion springs for latches with the “crow foot.” Springs for pre-1979½ FSJs which have round latches (see below for identification) are custom, lower tension springs, designed to work better than original equipment springs in older vehicles with manual locks. These instructions are based on installation for a 1986 Jeep Grand Wagoneer with power door locks and power windows and for a 1974 Jeep Wagoneer with manual door locks and manual windows. I’ve done my best to make sure the
1 Based on pricing posted by BJ's Offroad and Team Grand Wagoneer on 1/24/2007

Door Lock Spring Instructions

1/10 Printed on 3/7/07 Copyright © 2007 by Michael Shimniok

or consult with a professional. as far as I know. Identification The easiest way to tell the two latch mechanisms apart is by opening one of your doors and looking at the latch mechanism on the end of the door. but you get the idea. I like mine better than the one pictured because the notch in the spade is much bigger. Don't rely on these instructions as a sole guide. They are available from mainstream auto parts stores. etc) without damaging the door panel.instructions are correct for these years and models but you’re ultimately responsible to determine applicability to your vehicle. or aftermarket repair manual.1991 This is the older latch mechanism. You should consult your Technical Service Manual. The newer latch mechanism has what I'll call a “crow foot” latch. Pre-1979½ 1979½ . This simplifies removing the springs that keep the panel in place (besides the screws. Here is the step-bystep process based on a 1986 Grand Wagoneer. It is your responsibility to ensure your actions do not damage your vehicle or harm anyone. like a screwdriver with a bend at the end and a flat spade with a notch in it. Interior Trim Removal Tool Door Lock Spring Instructions 2/10 Printed on 3/7/07 Copyright © 2007 by Michael Shimniok . identified by the round latch. Some Tools Needed ● ● ● ● ● ● ● Eye protection Small needle nose pliers with teeth Interior trim removal tool Assorted Phillips screw drivers Allen wrench set Small knife Zip tie Note: Your best friend will be a interior trim removal tool.

The strap is affixed with a phillips screw on the left and right side of the arm rest. you only have to remove the two large screws. Remove these and you will have access to the large screws holding the armrest Door Lock Spring Instructions 3/10 Printed on 3/7/07 Copyright © 2007 by Michael Shimniok . refer to the steps below.Removing the Door Panel Door Panel Removal Pre-1979½ 1979½ .1991 On the front doors of later model Full Size Jeeps there is an arm rest in combination with a reflector. remove the two screws on the underside above the red reflector indicated by the arrow in the detail shot in the above right.1991 [1] [2] [3] [2] [5] This picture shows a rear door panel from a 1974 Wagoneer This is a front door panel from a 1986 Grand Wagoneer Use the appropriate figure above as an overall guide to panel removal and installation and for each number on the picture. To remove the reflector. Pre-1979½ Older Full Size Jeeps have a strap running across the center of the armrest. For rear doors. (1) Start by removing the arm rest. 1979½ . Once you have removed the reflector you'll have access to the two large screws holding the armrest.

re move the two screws on the power window/lock panel. removed so you can take off the door panel. Pre-1979½ 1979½ . if equipped) using an allen wrench.1991 (3) Earlier model rigs don't have window Remove the control panel using a Phillips control panels (as far as I know) but the screw driver. Remove the lid and remove the two phillips screws attaching the ash tray. On FSJs equipped with power windows and door locks.Screw on each side of armrest Two screws holding reflector Next. (2) Remove the door latch lever (and window crank. they're 4/10 Printed on 3/7/07 Copyright © 2007 by Michael Shimniok . Remove the two screws shown Remove the two ash tray screws Door Lock Spring Instructions Power window switch panels on rear doors don't need to be removed. Save the plastic backing that is supposed to be present behind the levers. remove the two large Phillips screws holding the arm rest to the door. For rear doors you will have to remove the ash tray. A similar panel is found on rear doors have ash trays that must be driver and passenger front doors.

Remove Phillips screws (with washers) affixing the bottom edge of the door panel to the door sheet metal.attached directly to the door panel. you will also need to carefully remove the Pre-1979½ paper sheet or 1979½ . Now. Gently spread the door panel from the door and look for the clips.1991 spring clips holding the panel to the door. use the trim removal tool to remove the Pre-1979½ plastic clips or 1979½ . You will want to reapply this with duct tape when you reinstall. Note that later model FSJs – as well as Pre-1979½ FSJs – do not have door pulls. slide the trim tool in so that the gap in the center of the tool is straddling the clip and pry the door panel away from the door which should pop out the clip. Ash trays are also attached directly to later model FSJ rear door panels and don't need to be removed.1991 plastic sheet covering the door. This space intentionally blank.1991 Peel away the woodgrain cover of each chrome end of the door pull strap with a small knife (BE CAREFUL!) to reveal a total of four Phillips screws. (4) 1979½ . Driver door panel shown. If present. The easiest to describe is to disconnect the plugs inside the door that will allow you to remove the panel completely. (5) Door Lock Spring Instructions 5/10 Printed on 3/7/07 Copyright © 2007 by Michael Shimniok . a. The driver front door on late model FSJs have a mirror control switch that is attached to the panel. b. remove these and remove the door pull.

so.Pre-1979½ 1979½ . You can see the mechanisms pictured below. Push spring here 2. the one visible) until it falls 6/10 Printed on 3/7/07 Copyright © 2007 by Michael Shimniok . inside the doors.1991 1. Pre-1979½ 1979½ . top.. you can find the door lock mechanisms at the rear. Pry out this end (1) Push the hidden end of the spring through the hole in the outer plate (outer with respect to the vehicle. Door Lock Spring Instructions (1) Push the visible end of the spring through the hole in the inner plate (inner with respect to the vehicle. use eye protection—at a minimum—for removing and installing the springs. For each number follow the instructions below. Using the trim removal tool.. Once you have the door panel removed. GENTLY pry apart the two steel plates that make up the door lock mechanism (try not to bend them) and.1991 Picture not yet available Removing the Old Spring To play it safe.

an the area behind the mechanism. The view shown has the top of the mechanism to the left. Then. Spray in the location of the spring. Or you may need to pull it out with pliers. (2) Pull the rest of the spring out of the outer plate with pliers. Now spray d lithium grease on these areas. The following pictures are door latch mechanisms removed from the vehicles. The spring hole for the moving plate is shown with an arrow. If you choose to leave the latch in the vehicle skip down to the re-installation of the spring. out. Pre-1979½ 1979½ . the rear most part of the mechanism is at the bottom. You can see there are several moving parts in this mechanism and all should be cleaned and greased. Cleaning the Latch Mechanism At a minimum. then spray it down with Door Lock Spring Instructions 7/10 Printed on 3/7/07 Copyright © 2007 by Michael Shimniok . I recommend that you clean up the door lock plates with some kind of solvent or penetrating oil to wash away the old grease.so. (2) Pull the rest of the spring out of the inner plate with pliers. the rear most part of the mechanism at the top of the picture. the one that's hidden) until it comes out. all visible pivot points. A much better idea is to remove the door latch/lock mechanism from the vehicle and dunk it in a carburetor cleaning dip tank/bucket. All the moving parts should be cleaned and greased. This will be tricky because the older springs have a bend in them. Then. the top of the latch mechanism is to the left.1991 In this view.

It will be easiest to slide the end of the spring in at an angle. Installing the Door Lock Spring Warning: the spring ends are sharp. Keep holding the plates apart and use needle nose pliers to grab the other end of the spring and push it into the remaining hole (1) on the moving portion of the latch mechanism. Removal of the latch mechanism is currently beyond the scope of this document. regrease it with lithium grease. but check back soon as these instructions will be updated to include this step. spray between the plates with lithium grease while working the mechanism. you'll get it. please be careful! Don't forget your eye pro tection for spring installation—and other activities. manual latches). Ideally. While this can be challenging it is easier with the latch removed. Installation of the new spring into the door latch is reverse order of the removal steps above and is easiest with the latch removed but can be done with the latch mechanism in the vehicle. As stated above. the door springs themselves come in left and right varieties. By now it should be operating very freely. start with (2). At this point. Springs for the left side remain unpainted and will have a steel. it is your responsibility to determine applicability. Spray behind the plates as well. Again this will be easiest by inserting the spring so the end is at an angle. Now. bluish cast. Important: Left and Right Just as your door latches are mirror images of each other. While gently(!) prying apart the metal plates. Unlock the door and hold it up by using a zip tie around the door lock button. and remove all traces of old grease. but this is the recommended configuration. inserting spring into hole.aerosol carb cleaner. Earlier Pre-1979½ rigs use a slightly different latch mechanism. Door Lock Spring Instructions 8/10 Printed on 3/7/07 Copyright © 2007 by Michael Shimniok . And with the right tools and patience. Either spring will generally work in either mechanism. Springs for the right side of the vehicle (as you sit in it) are painted orange. use the lighter tension springs for these older latches (or possibly for later model.

if your actuators aren't locking/unlocking properly: ● ● ● ● Thoroughly clean and grease the latch mechanism if you haven’t. I've found that sometimes it will help to bend one of the 90° bent ends at a slightly different angle. there's a good chance the springs will be too much to overcome. the plate to which the linkage attaches should snap up and down crisply with minimal pressure. Electric Door Locks Second.5V if charged. run the door lock mechanism through at least a dozen lock/unlock cycles by hand to ensure the spring will stay in place. the spring could tend to pop out. There are some possible fixes. button. and corroded contact to overcome. To find the cause of low actuator voltage: ○ Check voltage where switch plugs into connector to ensure it is very close to the battery voltage. 9/10 Printed on 3/7/07 Copyright © 2007 by Michael Shimniok Door Lock Spring Instructions . So. just above the actuator. Test voltage at the battery and then at the actuator plug (for lock and unlock). Though I keep the spring rate of the springs within an approximate range. there's a lot of friction in the mechanism. Battery should be 11.8-12. yet. you'll want to test locking and unlocking to ensure your door lock actuators will still function to lock and unlock the door with the new spring. and ensure it isn’t binding up. but I don't have the resources to anticipate all possible variations. The design of the front door latch/actuator requires more force to unlock the door than to lock it. Rear door: fully grease the two pivot points for the latch. If you removed the door lock mechanism.Once you have done so. Testing & Troubleshooting Manual Lock/Unlock I've found it helpful to test everything out before you put it all back together. First. The actuator should see within 2V or less of this voltage when holding the lock/unlock button. That's assuming they worked in the first place! If the Jeep struggles to lock/unlock doors without springs. I've discovered that if the moving plate on your door latch mechanism is too loose. old wire. actuator mechanism. reinstall it. Tighter latch mechanisms will prevent the springs from working their way loose. if you have electric door locks. Front door: find the actuator rod and grease the bushing through which it passes. The rear requires a lot of force. especially if the vehicle is off (12V instead of 13. the added resistance of the door lock spring may be too much for old actuators. especially for the rear doors.8V). I've wound the springs in a way that should prevent this.

Or.1 Date 1/23/2007 Initial release Changes 2/28/2007 Included pictures and text for older & newer latches 3/7/2007 Added picture for “Crow Foot” latch Door Lock Spring Instructions 10/10 Printed on 3/7/07 Copyright © 2007 by Michael Shimniok . Contact Information Once again.0 2. want help. find and check ground connection (one of the black wires coming out of the driver door). for rear doors. you could remove the door springs since the rear doors won't likely lock themselves. ○ If possible. I want you to have properly working door locks so I will help you out as best as I can. etc. aftermarket door lock actuators that you can adapt to your vehicle for around $5. ○ Check orange rubber connector in door for corrosion. If all this fails.50 each from http://www. Remove switch.0 2. and clean all contacts. ○ Once everything is proven to be working properly. thank you for purchasing my Hand Wound Reproduction Door Lock Springs and if you have any problems send email to Michael Shimniok: mes@cfsja.com/. [END] Document Revision History Version 1. Feel free to email me if you have questions. you can get motor-driven. reinstall the door panel in the reverse steps used to remove it.● ● Check condition of switches. Clean external contacts.org and I’ll do my very best to help you out.AllElectronics.0. carefully split apart with a knife preventing internal contacts from flying out.