CMYK

Tech Talk

Often the words ironing, pressing and finishing are used interchangeably without realising
that these are three different functions with different objectives. A deeper look will reveal
that there is a wide spectrum of parameters for each item of equipment. Shape, size, weight,
compatibility with the fabric, table size and dimensions... the list is endless.
Traditionally, ironers learned from old generations (like tailors) by word of mouth and used
age-old equipment (heavy electrically heated iron and padded wooden tables). The use of
steam and vacuum was never taught to the iron wielders scientifically, resulting in grossly
incorrect methods being followed.
StitchWorld compiles these three ‘ignored’ but very important topics of ironing, pressing
and finishing in collaboration with Gunter Veit of Veit and Phillip J Harber of Hoffman. The
article is split into two Parts, with this edition, Part 1, discussing Ironing. Part 2, to be
published in the next issue, will feature Pressing and Finishing.

Part 1: Ironing-Pressing-Finishing

Exploring Developments in Ironing

and Correct Processes
I
roning, Pressing and Finishing are all
different processes that aim to
remove the “unwanted” crease and
impart “wanted” creases. A crease can be
removed either by compressing
between two flat surfaces or by applying
tension (stretching). Ironing involves
relative movement or friction between
two flat surfaces, while pressing
involves compression between two
surfaces (but no relative motion
between them). Pressing can be done
by compressing between either two
flat or curved surfaces, e.g., by pressing
a convex and a concave surface
together, a crease in the fabric can be
removed while shaping of the fabric can
be done simultaneously.
Finishing removes the ‘unwanted’ crease
by stretching, but cannot impart a
“wanted” crease. Both ironing and
pressing can remove or impart a crease.
Distinguishing Electric-steam
Iron from All-steam Iron
The all-steam iron was the first type of
iron to be developed, followed by the
steam electric iron, an improvement.
The difference between the two is that
Pressing in an all steam iron, steam is used to
to remove
heat the iron and discharge a moist
crease
(Courtesy: spray, whereas a steam electric iron uses
Veit) a heating element to keep the iron
warm (and control the temperature)
and a solenoid holds the steam from the
iron until called for. This method is safer,
as all steam irons have live steam
circulating in the iron and the iron
hoses can burst and scald someone.
The steam electric iron also has a hose
Form but the electric solenoid holds the
finishing to steam out of the hose until the electric
remove micro-switch is touched on the iron.
crease
(Courtesy: Thus there is no steam under
Veit) pressure in the iron.

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In all-steam irons, temperature depends
on the pressure of the steam. This limits
the working temperature for the irons
between 140 to 1500 C, whereas a
steam electric has a thermostat which
will allow the temperature to be finely
adjusted from 100 to 2000 C. Cotton and
linen need at least 1800 C for ironing.
To achieve that temperature, it is
necessary that we have electric heated
steam irons. Various models of all steam
irons are available for final pressing,
under-pressing, seam opening,
touch-up and flat-knit finishing.
Temperature is very critical in ironing
equipment. Unfortunately, people tend
to overlook the importance of the same.
Critical fibres like viscose and polyester
can react too quickly to the heat and
faults in quality like shines and marks
might show up due to the effect of
temperature. However the latest
offering from major suppliers provide
temperature difference less than ± 20 C
to the preset temperature, thereby
ensuring quality ironing.
There is no worry about burning on light
weight fabric and chemical fibres as they
are finished only by the power of steam.
Weight of an Iron
In yesteryears, it was thought the more
the weight, the better the press. In fact it
is not the weight but the extra
temperature from the mass that dries a
garment faster.Today we use vacuum
tables to remove the heat and moisture
Steam condensation
Maximum temperature achievable
Safety
Electric-steam iron
(Courtesy:
Naomoto)
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so a light-weight iron is all that is Steam Brush
required. Since we use steam to do the
ironing and not the weight or the
pressure of the irons, the weight of the
irons are not very critical any more. It is
better to have lighter irons that helps the
operator to do the ironing easily. Weights
of irons vary from 1 to 2 kg.
Surface Characteristics of an Iron
Steam brush
There are different surfaces for irons like
(Courtesy:
aluminium, aluminum coated, chrome Naomoto)
plated, stainless steel and Teflon soles.
These are recommended based on the A ‘steam brush’ is indispensable to finish
product to be ironed. Aluminum base off smoothening out creases and
irons are some times anodised to give it undoing shrinkage. It is very rational
a harder surface, which is similar in looks since it can be used to finish a hanging
to Teflon soles but not in properties. If garment on a hanger. With high quality
the iron surface is highly polished, during and strong steam, it is suitable for
ironing the small invisible protruding finishing such clothes as light suits,
fibres in the fabric surface are aligned in synthetic fibres and even gathers and
regular fashion, resulting in uniform light frills. A feather-touch type of solenoid
reflection thus shine. Also, a polished valve is adopted.The light touch switch
smooth surface means increased area of will largely eliminate working burden.
contact, greater heat transfer, burning of
Steam Cushion Frame Sole
the protruding fibres, ultimately resulting
in shine on the fabric surface.
Teflon coating gives the surface matte
finish, which decreases the area of
contact between iron surface and
cloth and also aligns the fibres
protruding haphazardly.
While Teflon is the flavour, there are
several other patented high perform-
ance sole finishing in use by different
leading iron manufacturers such as Steam cushion frame sole
(Courtesy: Veit)
Tufflon and titanium plated iron soles.
Steam cushion frame sole has many
fields of application, like knits, velours
Electric Steam Iron All steam Iron
and accessories such as scarves. Also, if
Is a problem Is not a problem there are different materials (mixed
fibres) in one garment, refinishing can
2000 C 140 to 1500 C easily be done by ironing over it gently.
A steam cushion frame sole is suitable
Safer Less safe
especially for precise smaller re-finishing
operations, for example, touch-up of
button strips or removal of pressure
marks.
Iron Soles
All-steam iron Iron soles reduce the surface
(Courtesy: temperature between the iron and the
Naomoto) garment. Therefore, the danger of
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scorching is reduced to a minimum. The
Teflon coating prevents sheen and helps
the iron to glide smoothly. Evenly spaced
holes ensure a constant flow of steam.
Iron soles (Courtesy: Veit)
Shape and Size of an Iron
The size and also the shape of the iron is
very critical in ironing as sometimes
there are points in a garment which can
never be reached by an iron. With the
new pointed soleplate, complicated
ironing of tucks or pleats is no longer a
problem. A slightly arched soleplate
point enables improved sliding features.
The very low weight of only around
1400g facilitates smooth gliding over
the garments.The iron handle is
ergonomically shaped with integrated
contactor switch to release steam.
Standard equipments provide contact
and heat protection, handle support,
holder for iron soles and swivel bow for
iron support gantry. Lastly, wear and tear
parts can be replaced easily and quickly.
Electronic control unit “Veitronic” as an
option (Veitronic is included on
Varioset S/B - ironing tables), may be
used to control temperature accuracy
within ± 20C (± 30F).
Apart from general features, the uses of
different shapes and sizes depends on
where the iron is used; for example,
either in inline pressing or on final
pressing. Inline pressing needs irons of
small width whereas finish or final
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pressing needs an iron with a bigger
surface area to reduce the time on
ironing. The shape and size depends
on the application— a narrow iron for
seam opening and a wide base when
pressing a panel.
Seam Opening Iron
A seam opening form should have a
rounded surface. No pressure is given to
the edges to avoid seam impressions.
The narrow shape of this iron can easily
access even small seams. Steam is only
released through one row of outlets at
the centre of the iron so that steam
outlets apply steam only to centre of the
seam, thus preventing marks.
Wide base flat iron (Courtesy: Veit)
Seam opening iron (Courtesy: Veit)
Narrow base seam opening iron
(Courtesy: Veit)
New Developments
Different companies are offering
continuous improvement in design
to improve performance, save energy
and make a user-friendly product.
For example:
z The drainage and water feeding
hoses are combined into one
hose in irons to make it a user-
friendly product.
z Steam volume can be easily and
finely adjusted by using a swing
lever, push lever or feather-touch
type switch.
z Specific design to ensure low centre
of gravity and height, which makes
its use easy and smooth.
Types of Tables
There are three types of iron tables
available. Firstly, the universally /
commonly used vacuum table, where
the vacuum is sucked through the table
surface to lay the garment flat on the
surface as well as suck the residual
moisture and heat from the garment
after ironing. The second type of iron
table is the ‘up-steam’ table where
steam comes up from table surface
through garments thus moistening the
garment. This is used for knitted
garments, where ironing is not advisable
as the movement of the iron deforms
the garment. An up-steam table
guarantees a complete and even
distribution of steam and suction over
the whole surface. Inclination of the
surface is possible by 60, 90 or 120. All
parts contacted by steam are made of
stainless steel. This prevents spots from
corrosion and guarantees a long working
life and trouble-free operation. There is
a little known third type: the Blow up
table which is unique for any garment
pressing, without leaving any marks. In
1969, VEIT invented the blow up table
and also the tubular ironing method that
offers cushioning effect to the garments
due to the upward thrust of air from the
table which prevents ironing marks on
the garments. Air blowing is used in
combination with vacuum to assist in
finishing the garment without leaving
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marks. When a vacuum is used, the
garment is drawn toward the pressing
surface. On multiple plies, it leaves
impression marks (due to seamlines).
Using air blowing, the garment is
expanded and pressed on a cushion of
air where ironing is possible without
putting in marks.This is especially
good on lined garments and silks. VEIT
Varioset table has inbuilt suction and
blowing functions as standard and all
VEIT Uniset tables have the blowing
function as an option.
garment to dry and cool it. Old time
pressers sometimes use other materials.
They make a very soft surface but it has a
tendency to cause the iron to dig into
the fabric and leave marks. Cloth-cover
should also be heat-resistant and
processed for anti-static electricity.
Proper combination of cover systems
assists in achieving better and uniform
suction across the suction table. There
are Five layers, the Top Cover, the
Intermediate Layer, Adjusting Fibre,
Base Layer and Ironing Surface
blowing result.This distributes strong
airflow evenly over the entire surface/
form buck, can be cleaned easily by
compressed air, ensures long lifetime
with unchanged performance. It could
also be of polyurethane material of
6 mm thickness, which permits
good air flow over the entire surface/
form buck, is water-resistant for a dry
surface/form buck and can be hand
washed in soap water. This is an
economic solution for medium term
good suction/blowing result.

The Top Cover may consist of either

Up steam table (Courtesy: Veit)
The structure and importance
of the cloth cover system
The table surface with proper vacuum
suction system helps keep the garment
cool and dry in a minimal time. To
synthetic fibre, which has long life, short-
term heat-resistance up to 1800 C and
hand washable in soap water (300 C), or
polyester fibre, especially for fabrics that
are subject to sheen and mostly used
with hard covers (seam ironing). It could
also use synthetic coarse fibre, which is
slide resistant. It keeps the garment as
positioned, has a long life and short-term
heat-resistance up to 1900 C
The Intermediate Layer consists of 5 or
10 mm of foam as cushion for covers.
The Adjusting Fibre guarantees the Cover systems (Courtesy: Veit)

maintain proper suction, it is very complete splitting of the condensate

drops and reduces the humidity in the A: Top Cover
important to have a proper cover system B: Intermediate Layer
which should not be too hard or too soft. cover system.
C: Adjusting Fibre
The cover cloth should be porous to be The Base Layer is generally a patented D: Base Layer
able to draw the vacuum through the silicon mat for long-term good suction/ E: Ironing Surface

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The hardness of silicone foam sheet
used in the cladding is very crucial for
getting a soft finish. Different parts of a
garment have differential thickness (due
to seam lines), often resulting in seam
impression or shine.The side and inseam
of a trouser is a classic example. In the
past, this was achieved by pasting
silicone/foams of different hardness,
which always caused problems with
marks at the edges and poor durability.
Now silicone/foam sheets are available
with softer central stripe allowing the
seam of a trouser to sink in whilst the
crease is pressed with the harder sides.
The latest offering in silicone/foam with
central stripe is being produced without
pasting one piece of foam with strong
silicone coating at the sides and less
silicone coating at the central stripe.
Trials proved a constant ironing quality
with a better ironing result compared to
obsolete glued-together sheets.
Conventional silicone coated foam
sheets are prone to destruction of the
homogeneous silicone surface during
use, due to bursting air bubbles. This
reduces the heat resistance and the life
of the foam. New generation silicone/
foams are being produced with a unique
silicone penetration technique using
ultrasound vibrations preventing
formation of air bubbles between the
silicone coating and the foam base, thus
extending the replacement interval and
providing a constant ironing quality.
Vomatex cladding for trouser seam busting
Some Common Cover Systems
Industry Hard Cover. The Industry Hard
Cover consists of a top cover which is
synthetic, a middle layer of adjusting
fibre and a base layer. This is especially
suitable for insensitive fabrics and
StitchWorld z NOVEMBER 2005
used in underpressing for ironing small
parts such as flaps, welts and cuffs on
surfaces or bucks.
Industry Soft Cover. Depending on
requirements, the intermediate foam
layer can be of different strength, which
avoids pressure marks of buttons,
pockets, etc. on the part to be ironed.
It is used in finishing - for all necessary
operations and in underpressing for
silk fabrics.
The Ironing Surface (E) of tables and
bucks, consists of a corrosion-resistant
perforated plate or a bored casting
mould with an additional light metal grid
for an evenly spread suction and
blowing airflow (avoids wet covers).
The Shape of the Ironing Table
Utility type iron table (Courtesy: Veit)
There are two basic shapes—utility (like
an ironing board) and rectangular.The
utility is best for dresses, bottoms, etc.,
while the rectangular is used for
underpressing (in line pressing) and flat
pressing of children’swear and shirts.
Auxiliary shapes are attached either for
specialised areas such as sleeves or bust.
The shape of the ironing table is not only
important for ease of handling of
different types of garment, but also to
give shape to garments. For example,
egg buck or mushroom shape is used to
give shape to waistbands. There are
numerous buck shapes available to press
Rectangular iron table (Courtesy: Veit)
the jackets as it is designed to press and
also to shape the jackets while ironing.
Even utility or rectangular iron tables
are not enough while ironing some
critical areas of garment, eg, side,
back and shoulder armhole portion of
any top. Ironing right and left sides
require mirroring of table shape. In
1997, Electrolux Orton developed a
Shape Change iron table capable of
ironing varied needs, where the table
corner could be expanded to
accommodate the garment.
The Ironing Process
Ironing is often considered too trifling to
get anyone trained in the method.
Movement of iron over the garment also
should follow certain rules; from the
right side of the ironing table to the left
requires steam, not suction and from the
left side of the ironing table to the right
means no steam, a dry iron and suction.
Vacuum and steam should never be
applied together. Movement of the iron,
application of steam and application of
vacuum, these three should follow a
rhythm (like driving a car) to generate an
effective ironing result. A common
mistake followed in most of the
factories is ironers applying steam while
the vacuum is on. Such incorrect
processes, though they do not result in
any quality shortcomings in the garment
(the reason why it goes unnoticed),
bring in staggering energy bills and
incorrect motion slows down productivity.
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