You are on page 1of 154

WineSpectator.

com
p m

Cheese
THE

ISSUE
With Delicious Recipes
And Matching Wines

WHITE
BURGUNDY:
MORE THAN 200
RATED 90+
CALIFORNIA
PINOT NOIR:
EXCEPTIONAL
REDS IN
DIVERSE STYLES
MORE THAN 625
WINES RATED

.

.

California Pinot Noir achieves excellent quality in the complementary 47 Mozzarella Burrata Caprese 2013 and 2014 vintages • James Laube 51 Goat Cheese Pavé With Honey Gelée WINE 57 Brie Cheesecake With Apple Butter 96 His Own Man Winemaker Christian Moreau taps his 61 Époisses Époisses Toast family’s historic vineyards to produce some of Chablis’ most 64 Manchego Apple. 30. No. 2016 Vol. with whites • Bruce Sanderson recipes from leading chefs and wine matches from top sommeliers • Owen Dugan. 7 “Not many people knew about burrata when we first opened. site-specific wines • Bruce Sanderson 67 Swiss Cubano Sandwich 70 Cheddar Macaroni and Cheese 73 Gouda Walnut-Gouda Soufflé 77 Parmigiano-Reggiano Risotto Cacio e Pepe ANDREW PURCELL 80 Blue Cheese Duck Wings With Cheese Sauce . Mozza really helped introduce burrata cheese to Los Angeles—maybe even America?”—Chef elizabeth hong 44 Ten mouthwatering recipes for cheeses. Fennel. We found a local cheesemaker that was able to supply burrata daily. with David Gibbons 107 Pushing Pinot In the midst of steady growth. 40. Manchego Salad distinctive. racy 44 Cooking With Cheese Explore 10 iconic cheeses. CONTENTS Sept. who deliver an impressive crop of rich. with wine matches Cover Story Features Cheese TA S T I N G R E P O R T S 84 Against the Odds A difficult 2013 vintage fails to waylay Burgundy vintners.

/THE SACRAMENTO BEE/ZUMA PRESS. ANDREW MCCAUL. Cheese knives available at Formaggio Kitchen. Food styling by Carrie Purcell. Spanish specialties • Bruce Sanderson COVER PHOTOGRAPH BY ANDREW PURCELL. Shanken 21 World Justin clears old oaks. French finds. 30 Pachamama coffee 84 2013 white Burgundy 27 Visit Marqués de Riscal 96 Chablis’ Domaine Moreau Grapevine Departments 19 News 2015 Bordeaux futures fuel speculation 9 This Issue Marvin R. . Barolo’s Vietti sold 15 Feedback CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: PAUL KITAGAKI JR. JON WYAND 24 People Tour d’Argent’s André Terrail • Samantha Falewée 37 James Laube Paul Draper’s Ridge legacy 27 Travel Wine harvest festivals 2016 40 Matt Kramer A case against natural wine 30 Coffee The mother of fair-trade coffee • Mark Pendergrast 42 James Molesworth Challenges on Long Island 32 Wine Focus Italy’s Basilicata • Alison Napjus 148 FAQ Chardonnay 34 Savvy Shopper Italian offerings.

All courses are free with a WineSpectator .com readers: WINE AND FOOD MATCHMAKING Our “8 & $20” series shows you how to use eight ingredients. check out the entry guidelines and previous wine-and-food pairing skills. The Buying Guide 117 Buying Guide Contents 119 Spectator Selections 120 About the Buying Guide 123 New Wines From Around the World A TO P .winespectator. free e-mail newsletter spotlights the best restaurants for rateurs (and their wine directors) to battle it out with executive wine lovers.) On Sept. winespectator. Sept. California and Tuscany. BOTTOM: ISTOCK 2016 VIDEO CONTEST—CHOOSE THE WINNER! Original short Exclusive information for members of wine videos have been pouring in to Wine Spectator’s 10th annual WineSpectator.. from iconic hotels and resorts to perfect pizza places. miss these recent additions: SIPS & TIPS NEWSLETTER Get new recipes delivered to your • Defining Hang Time: In basketball. BACK TO (WINE) SCHOOL Fall is the time of year to ramp up your we’ll post the finalists so you can vote for your favorite. from the ABCs of place winner will receive a pair of tickets to our spectacular Wine Wine Tasting to detailed explorations of individual regions such as Experience weekend. Tune in each week for a new mobile-friendly video. to make any meal an occasion. We pair each recipe with a delicious under-$20 bottle of wine. Bordeaux. 12. editor Thomas Matthews to see who can pick the best wine pair- Get great restaurant wine picks. 20. and share years’ finalists at www. Sign up at newsletters.. Sign up for our free weekly maker Anne Moller-Racke.winespectator.S C O R I N G WINE THIS ISSUE Graham Tawny Port 90 NV 97 points. The top video will be revealed on Sept. (Entry deadline is Monday. talks hang time email at newsletters. 5. about new restaurant openings and more. Don’t long weekend without straining your wallet. of California’s Donum. • Star Chef Challenge: We enlisted four leading chefs and restau- monthly. for grapes . to whip up a quick weeknight dinner or even an elegant entrée for spur-of-the-moment entertaining.com membership. wine education with one of our online courses. learn ing for some complex dishes. Start whenever you want.winespectator. $1. Wine Spectator maker interviews and tastings on your desktop. twice. travel ideas and helpful tips to long a player stays airborne. along with great value wines. LABOR DAY ENTERTAINING Don’t work hard to throw a Party tips.000 139 Reviews of wines from Spain Visit www. . The first.com/videocontest2016. laptop. Free resources for all of our WineSpectator. See which contestants prevail. tablet or editors pick well-priced.com/093016 to find links to all of the following resources. wine- boost your food and wine knowledge. wine- will allow you to spend time with your guests. online great party! We recruit leading chefs and cookbook authors to share some of their favorite crowd-pleasing recipes that WINE SPECTATOR VIDEO Watch all our great wine tips. Or learn how to improve your In the meantime. plus pantry staples. only $49 per year. keep on top of drinks trends. and what that means for the wine in your glass.com. INTRODUCING OUR PRIVATE GUIDE TO DINING Our new.com. “hang time” refers to how inbox. highly rated wines to enjoy over the phone. the tastings with friends. TOP: STEVEN MORRIS/GETTY IMAGES.com: Video Contest. Looking ahead to harvest.

.

.

In this issue. Laube has reviewed more than 550 Pinots in the past year. goes together. according to senior editor James Laube. us know what you think. The result. THIS ISSUE Cheese and Wine T here’s an old saying in the wine trade: “Buy on apples. available for iOS. Executive Editor SEPT. Af- ries. production techniques and taste profiles. 2016 • WINE SPECTATOR 9 . T he issue also includes two tasting reports. are products of local terroirs and traditions. Let any wine lover. our tasting department offers alternatives more than 3. There may be a physiological basis to this attrac- tion. First. like wines. author of several books on fan of vibrant. analysing recent releases of California Pinot Noir and white Burgundy. our lead taster on the wines of Ten cheeses take the spotlight. the sommeliers who work alongside the to download our new Restaurant Awards app. Features editor Owen Dugan recruited the chefs and Sanderson rates the vintage as a whole at 90 points. DAVID YELLEN and finds plenty to like in both vintages. Researchers at the Monell Chemical Senses Center in Philadelphia have found that the astrin- gency of wine tannins creates a drying sensation in the mouth. you’ll find plenty of suggestions for delicious restaurant wine lists. our lead taster for the wines. we celebrate great cheeses and the wines that make them taste even better. respectively. You’ll learn about their histo. is a happy mix of uniformly high quality and a diversity of styles. and “what grows together. we encourage you wine pairings. Then in order It’s free and easy to use! Offering extensive information for the to broaden the options. Then each cheese is showcased in a recipe from a top explore. worked with them to find dishes that bring out the best in the California Pinot Noir and white Burgundy are among the cheeses yet remain accessible to home cooks. Marvin R. focuses on the region’s 2013 whites in his report. revealing any flaws in the wine. Burgundy. 30.500 restaurants around the world that hold Wine that deliver excellent value and may be easier to find. it’s fun to play the field. Senior editor Bruce Sanderson. 2013 is a vintage to cheese. most food-friendly of wines and both are perennial favorites on And. Editor and Publisher ranging from small start-ups to ambitious new ventures from es- tablished producers. Sanderson writes. chefs recommend a wine to drink with the dish. Which is kind of a negative way of expressing a basic truth about taste: Wine loves cheese.” The Loire Valley’s aged goat cheeses and lively Sancerres are an example of a classic pairing. Spectator awards for their wine programs. Shanken California Pinot Noir’s success has drawn ever more players. Cultural factors also play into these affinities. in primers by our ter reviewing nearly 400 wines.” More than 200 whites earned outstanding ratings. But however the matches are made. and chef. Cheeses. with nearly 200 wines Thomas Matthews rating an outstanding 90 points or higher on our 100-point scale. acid-driven white Burgundy. of course. If you enjoy dining out. sell on cheese. it’s a useful tool for We hope you’ll try some of the dishes and matching wines. But the creamy softness of cheese smoothes over and conceals any problems.” The juicy acidity of apples acts like a spotlight. the fat in cheeses delivers a creamy sensa- tion that brings the palate back into balance. mainly from 2013 and 2014. “If you are a cheese columnist David Gibbons.

.

.

Event Marketing Assistant Circulation Manager: tina ratwani Laura Zandi: Senior Vice President. bayer Associate Art Directors: Lisa aurigemma.S. . To Sell Wine Spectator in Your Store. Shanken: Chairman Senior Vice President.O. fax (212) 481-0722.com Janice McManus-Genevrino: Assistant to the Chairman Sheena Dellanzo: Assistant to the Chairman Director: gLoria maroti FraZee Videographer: steve merKeL New Subscriptions.com. aLeKsandar Zecevic.com.T. fax (212) 684-4065. Jon miner. emma baLter. Suite 207. Director of Advertising Sales WinE sPEctator school and vidEo Jessica Shanken: Vice President.S. bruce sanderson. NY 10019 Creative Director: Ken Ferris Associate Designer: tiFFany wong Telephone: (212) 684-4224. James moLeswortH. wHeeLer morrison (404) 600-8293 Midwest: susan tauster (630) 858-1558.. todd miLLer Designers: Henry eng. JacK bettridge (Spirits). robert camuto. call (212) 684-4224.. Administration/Advertising Sales Circulation Manager: Jesse arvidson Retail Account Manager: sHiren FeLicien Lynn Rittenband: Senior Vice President. Advertising Sales and Services: constance mcgiLvray Corporate Advertising: barry abrams Director. meLtZer Contributing Editors: matt Kramer. inc. Reprints and Permissions You must have our permission before reproducing any material from Wine Spectator. sara Heegaard (Dining) Tasting Department: Director: aLison napJus Senior Tasting Coordinator: maryann worobiec Tasting Coordinators: augustus weed. San Francisco: Katie combs (415) 673-2040 ext. Fax: (707) 299-3990 Event Marketing Manager: Lisa gribbin Event Marketing Coordinator: sHauntay dunbar m. 2 Arizona: steve bLiman (480) 473-7663 Detroit: Motor Media: cHristine anderson (248) 613-7022 Southeast: Green Leaves Media. Fax: (415) 673-0103 Senior Event Marketing Manager: susannaH noLan Napa: 1750 First St. suZanne mustacicH dEsign and Production Vice President. maggie Kotraba California: Senior Account Director. Production: Kevin muLLigan Art Director: david a. CA 94559. samantHa saFFer Prepress Coordinator: david bouLanger Prepress Assistant: eric cHeung WinEsPEctator. Beverage Alcohol Advertising: miKe mcgoLdricK Senior Account Manager: erin waLKer Classified /Advertising Services Manager: cHristina cHiaFFiteLLa New Media Coordinator: tara scudder Advertising Event Manager: LiZ mott Sales Assistants: HiLary cHaLson. diana witKowsKi Director of Photography: aLexandra de totH Assistant Photo Editor: Karissa maggio Promotions Designer: Lisa george Imaging: nina dodero. circulation Marvin R. San Francisco. giLLian sciaretta Assistant Tasting Coordinators: aaron romano. IA 50037-0367 (U. Circulation: Laura Zandi Michael D.com Managing Editor: dana nigro Assistant Managing Editor: robert tayLor Associate Editor: ben o’donneLL Assistant Editor: cHristine daLton Assistant Producer: dougLas de Jesus tEchnology Director. Internet Strategy: david vanHooK Director of Technology: micHaeL turro Director of Project Management: Joe meyerson Lead Developer: ricH owens Developer: anu udyaver Front-End Developers: edison Leon. Inquiries and Changes of Address P. dana nigro. Product and Accounts: ZacH HorwitZ WEst coast BurEaus EvEnt markEting San Francisco: 1686 Union St. Renewals. maryann worobiec. HiLary sims Editorial Assistants: samantHa FaLewée. San Francisco: cHeryL Lewis (415) 673-2040 ext. m arvin r. Outside the U. cHrystie marino. or e-mail retailsales@mshanken. and Canada. tim FisH Assistant Managing Editor: cordeLia winton Features Editor: owen dugan Associate Editor: mitcH FranK Senior Copy Editor: KeitH newton Copy Editors: ben Lasman. shankEn communications. Business Development www. call (800) 344-0763. and Canada. Canada: APR Media: wayne st. Event Marketing: Lynn rittenband Telephone: (415) 673-2040. Telephone: (707) 299-3999. JoHn (416) 363-1388 France: pHiLippe marqueZy + 33-170-644-700 Spain: Fionn o’brien/monica van der eb (011) 34-91-326-9106 shankEn crEativE grouP nEW york hEadquartErs Vice President: don gatterdam 825 Eighth Ave. Fax: (212) 684-5424 Associate Director.. Manager: enrique veLeZ Director of Digital Media: James Laporte advErtising Miriam Morgenstern Vice President. s hankEn • Editor and Publisher Editorial Thomas Matthews Executive Editor Managing Editor: Kim marcus Editor at Large: Harvey steiman Senior Editors: James Laube. CA 94123 Senior Vice President. Associate Publisher Senior Vice President.S.winespectator. cassia scHiFter Administrative Assistant: Jeannine graFFin (Napa) Auction Correspondent: peter d. 1 Sales Assistant. Napa. Moaba: Vice Chairman Mel Mannion: Senior Advisor to the Chairman Circulation Director: pHyLicia bedoya Senior Retail Sales Director: Jeanne HoLLy Constance McGilvray: Senior Vice President. Boone. Box 37367. steve canniZZaro I. 33rd Floor. or visit www. Los Angeles: Lindsey brooKe ronaLd (310) 399-4247 Senior Account Director. and Canada).winespectatorschool. Inc. New York. Shanken Communications. or call (800) 752-7799 in the U. aLison napJus. Circulation To sell Wine Spectator in your store call (800) 344-0763 Steven Gordon: Chief Financial Officer Miriam Morgenstern: Vice President. A Publication of M.

.

.

he became public there for $15 a night.family planted many acres Robert Mondavi Winery. merchants such as Frank wonderful tribute to Robert the valley ended up taking I do quibble a bit with the Schoonmaker bottled Napa Mondavi. great generosity. Mondavi the visionary you ages” Very little sweet wine boom after 1939 when the ager in the 1950s at my described. art deco label for Larkmead Robert Mondavi and his storied impact on Napa Valley winemak- lar that had been in Mari. I almost fell out of my Francis “Paco” Gould. Inglenook and Lark- ert when he started out mead (we were the at Sunny St. 30. should be El Bonito or La wine that replaced many of Hanns Kornell Champagne ply open fields. I knew Not only was Robert before [WWII] as “the dark bels. July 31). Every time she revolutionized the California But more importantly. he the main agricultural crop drove by the El Bonita she wine industry in the 1950s saved the Hanns Kornell in 1940.” cover. I well remember would complain about the with the development of home for Hanns and his acres of prune orchards. (My relatives agricultural crop in the val. Helena. the wines in the 1930s. J. Spanish and published the newsletter drank it all. description of Napa Valley wines under their own la- many memories. for the [U. All this was Robert’s doing. and the vine. Helena “NOT ONLY WAS smallest)–were all still Winery in the 1930s. since he bought the Lark.S. nases. the first —Tony Quinn with no TV. Marilouise. I think Krug to drink!) found that chickens were School. mead. Very late in DESCRIBED. and the Salminas ing. a Ger. and mixed Spanish genders. I was too young ley.” the 1920s-decor rooms Charles Krug. Robert was able and more. and for 30 years Napa wines. He once in those years (it was Cen. Sacramento. it Chenin Blanc.] trade. It brought back sides. duce some high quality first meeting with Robert SEPT. not El Bonita. owned Larkmead wine that had been featured yards were long restored the “Big Four” Napa winer- Winery until 1943 and they at a White House dinner. GAVE ME TWO BOTTLES chair laughing at Mr. Calif. GENEROSITY. Yes. HE ONCE Gould. Napa had a bit of a Robert when I was a teen. Walter Thompson designed a new Readers respond to senior editor James Laube’s profile of vintner Rossini ranch and wine cel. Robert bought the of Cabernet and other top davi. I loved Marvin Shanken’s was away in the army when and came to America with That said. varieties that remained there as far as I know. Napa did pro. I had known Hanns where the Three Palms a wonderful article on such that were in vogue then. in relations director for DINNER. I stayed A WHITE HOUSE 1949. mead plant in 1958 and I al. It is true ies–Beringer. in 1934. Helena High Bottles and Bins. [Editor’s Letter] on his the split occurred. the Salmi. the supersweet German-style Cellars went bankrupt in and I used to hunt squirrels Thank you again for such wines and the fortified wines 1991. was something of a bon OF WINE THAT HAD Shanken’s description of vivant (he spent half the BEEN FEATURED AT the El Bonita Motel in year in Switzerland). The palm a fine gentleman. because he knew I liked that wine was not the main yard. taught Italian. I nearly perished at Dachau Lillie Coit estate. I did a study on this and French at St. (“The Enduring Legacy of Robert Mon- erations. when the much of the valley was sim. he was a man of was produced in the valley war cut off European wines grandmother’s home at Lark. Marilouise long after. FEEDBACK READERS REMEMBER MONDAVI the bank was going to fore- close on their home. on the occasion of the 50th anniversary of the founding of louise’s family for three gen. from phylloxera. owned by the immigrant ROBERT MONDAVI THE Robert was everything families that founded you wrote in your tribute VISIONARY YOU them. Vineyard is today. My uncle Bonita. a fruity white wife. Beaulieu Vine- were close friends with Rob. My family. In 1991. my mother such a role. In St. whose husband. In the time any winery had 1930s. At the time of the war. home and gave it to them. Tony Quinn Charles Krug truly dominated ways admired him. trees and a row of old mul. 2016 • WINE SPECTATOR 15 . man Jewish immigrant who mained of the once elegant try in the 1950s and 1960s. HE WAS to build on the founda- her life I met a woman A MAN OF GREAT tion of quality wines named Romilda Peri that they’d laid. Eastern wine I thoroughly enjoyed your all the old wine families in still lives there. berries were all that re. and I know $2 in his pocket. gave me two bottles of Krug tral Valley). the small Napa Valley indus. Ours sided with Robert.

creative man and butions. I have long been a drinker and of us who have been inspired and moti. his strong suit. I was fortunate to attend a ize it or not. He was offered a never had long hair either). ’68. Your ough and comprehensive stories on story provides an excellent account of Robert Mondavi in [the July 31 issue]. where grape quality could be measured Again. whether we real. had the single greatest influence Cali- one’s standards. winemakers to work with contract and in-house growers to define the potential Questions and Comments of each vineyard. ’70 and ’74 Your 50th anniversary tribute to the vintages for tasting. We reserve the right to edit letters for clarity. 825 Eighth Ave. I am glad they could laugh about of humor. 16 WINE SPECTATOR • SEPT. Please Founder. One. nook. I have net Sauvignon) in America as a world. Shanken and the American wine industry. my congratulations to the and rewarded. send a fax to (212) 684-5424.. which are remarkable by any. the Wine Spectator staff on the thor- sumers. Bob was a wonderful. or e-mail the essence of a great man. I saw Mondavi speak once at it. Robert Mondavi’s contributions to I wish to compliment Mr. 33rd Floor. start- vated by him to improve the image ing with my first case. His warm us at letters@winespectator. saved at least one bottle from every class. “Thank you. and his a subscription to Wine Spectator before cough subsided. I say “tangible” because fornia’s wine industry as well as the you cannot tally the countless number world’s. I too used to stay at the Clift Hotel the University Club of NYC in 2001. were incentivized to put their grapes John Hamilton into Reserve programs. N. especially the piece about the personality was. a 1960 Ingle- and quality of wine (especially Caber. Mondavi Fumé Blanc!” Samuel Ritter Bravo to Wine Spectator and James Flat Rock. Calif. daily beverage. He graciously There are so many innovations from agreed to sign and date each for me and the man and his commitment that continued to do so until he was no lon- Napa Valley wine could be elevated to ger able. N. New York. which he drank. ’69. birthday party on the occasion of Bob’s Glenn Hudson 80th. Wine Spectator. He asked his Newport Beach. As a result of this passion. and never had a problem with them As he got up to the podium to speak. He immediately took Marvin bought it and upgraded it to the microphone in hand and without today’s standard. NY Bravo. are almost immeasurable.C. 30. losing a beat said. I even had glass of water. Laube for this in-depth look and trib- ute. Wine Spectator. his tangible achievements and contri. person around that could furnish bot- tles of the 1966. Walsh Vineyards Management keep your letters brief and be sure to include your name. lication). Robert Mondavi’s vintage of Mondavi Cab and Opus life has touched us all. It was there that I Robert Mondavi Winery was special shared with him that I had a complete and brought back many fond memories. but I Fred Stephens would have much preferred a glass of Indian Springs Village. we would like to hear from you. probably because I was the only Massapequa. Calif. the family and bottle price formulas where the growers to Wine Spectator. 2016 . way back in the early ’60s (of course I he began to cough.Y. on capturing 10019. address and telephone number (not for pub- Cambria. collector of California Cabernet. Write to us at Letters. and con.com. bartender who would not serve him a as was his often-overlooked great sense drink. indeed. FEEDBACK Mondavi. He created systems vintages until the company was sold. Ala. vertical of all years. Michael signed the last three world-class stature. If you have a comment on a story or a question Michael Walsh about wine. including Brix levels and Mondavi organization.

.

.

SEPT. last year. slowed as prices rose and consumers who hasn’t bought futures since.99 came out early in the campaign.-Exupéry rose by about 12 percent. high demand for everyday-drinking Bordeaux. sales of top classified-growths 10 percent of that vintage. by value peaked in 2003 at $313 mil. a 70 from 2010 to 2015. Everyday Bordeaux has been driving substantial growth at Binny’s 33 “Château Malescot St. priced at $40. CEO of Sherry-Lehmann in New York City. châteaus and second wines. United States reached $225 million last year—up 108 percent from able. Johnson deaux’s best in five years.” says Clyde Beffa. and we’ve sold a lot of it. a 104 percent increase on the 2014. along with many other petit A decline accelerated when prices skyrocketed for the 2009s and 2010s. and Haut-Brion. D. wines from the Bor- would keep increases to 15 percent.winespectator.” says Ho.” says Hermann. but shipments of Bordeaux Supérieur are up 78 percent percent. Lee Murphy. the challenges. only to in America. a sister publication of Wine Spectator. Nevetheless. looked elsewhere.S. Mouton-Rothschild and Lafite Roths. but by a network of négociants—adds to less-famous wineries. 37 percent higher. brands in the United States. invested moment for Bordeaux sales $80. “A good Bordeaux selling at a fair price will Many retailers dropped out of the futures game. 30. its 2014 price to $80 a bottle at retail Total Bordeaux shipments to the and Léoville Barton’s 21 percent jump to $70 a bottle seemed reason. see demand collapse.. “I sold less than cade. “Bordeaux doesn’t fering ever more bang for the buck. have national importers building Barrel tastings of the 2015s con. Côtes de Bordeaux shipments rose by 81 percent.” says BevMo senior vice president of wine Bob Paulinski. It Ho. Despite the hikes. last year. according to Impact Databank. Pi.” says president Josh Genderson. La Mission Haut-Brion arrived at lead.” Adams. “The reasonably priced wines are selling. We also have a lot of sumers. 2016 • WINE SPECTATOR 19 . futures anymore. wine merchants knew that customers. deaux appellations.” to $10. 2010.CO M | Keep up with breaking news as well reporting by Carol Ward as the people. stores that specialize in futures saw cautious inter.” president and sales director at K&L Wine Merchants in California.com/093016. Statistics aren’t available for the chon-Longueville Baron and Haut-Bailly both increased prices by 51 petits châteaus. owner of Pantheon Wine could also be a watershed Shoppe in Chicago. Then Lynch Bages arrived at about $110.000 in futures in 2012. bound. Over the past de. —James Molesworth. sold—two years before bottling. David Fleming and H. as well as the Pape Clément’s 19 percent rise from Château Margaux petits châteaus. erage Depot. but the most significant progress is est. Pape Clément stores. retailers for about $390. Clos Les Lunelles. it sold more than 100 cases of the 2006 lion. Yet Bordeaux sales The way classified-growths are grew dramatically in the U. but hoped château owners However. with DEEPIX STUDIO W I N E S P E C TATO R . There’s no real network prices were going to rise compared to out there promoting these wines. “I’m buying thousands of cases of Bordeaux that retail from $9.S. vice in the $20-to-$40 range. First-growth Château Margaux released at $550 a bottle. are seeing sales grow.” predicts Chris excellent Bordeaux at $30 to $50. GRAPEVINE WINE FOOD PEOPLE COL L ECT I NG Bordeaux Faces Changing Marketplace T he 2015 vintage could be Bor. by fueled not by first-growths. retailer Schneider’s doesn’t advertise Bordeaux Bordeaux shipments to the U. Washington. “It’s a sleeper business. which operates 158 stores in California. percent jump. “That’s partly why it’s When the futures campaign began in faded from the attention of many May.S. die-hard fans can find them. Bordeaux is performing well. according to Impact Databank. which means only still move. “Growth is robust across the board. which are of. Arizona and child released at similar prices. places and happenings that wine lovers are talking about at www.C. “We’ve seen a strong re- ing U. At BevMo.99 a bottle. fine wine buyer revealed that the vintage offers the at Chicago-area chain Binny’s Bev- potential for outstanding quality. Washington. “The first-growths will sell without a problem.” says ducted by Wine Spectator this spring Barbara Hermann. but we see Even the most expensive wines are must-buys for a select group of con. deaux Supérieur and Côtes de Bor- That optimism quickly evaporated.” the 2014s.

.

” The nia’s long drought. Winery ignited a fire.” said Saxum winemaker Justin Jensen of Booker Vineyards. that winery’s operations. us to take a big step up in quality. while environ. Enologist Luca Currado.” he said.” Krause Holdings is the parent company price. BOTTOM: COURTESY OF VIETTI “Two great families are coming together. “When we learned of the terrible when there is plenty of open land around. Wonderful Pistachios and Wonderful watching to see if the winery changes its prac- from wells in winter and draw on in summer. Halos.” wine region facing water issues during Califor. a family-owned producer in the commune of Castiglione Falletto dating back to 1873. an estimated $4. and [it’s] Those parcels will join Vietti’s 84 acres. “You’re building The Resnicks issued a statement on June 24.S.tices. the rules for notifying the district pany of devastating a 375-acre when construction began. an organization mentalists called for a boycott. old and new: (from left) Mario Cordero. Sharon a guarantee for the future. 2016 • WINE SPECTATOR 21 . Justin was bought Resnicks did not specify what went wrong. Fiji tator they appreciate the apology. The a 6. Department of Justin’s owners Stewart and Agriculture and the California Lynda Resnick issued an apol.2 billion. “We’re looking for a long-term relationship between our family and the Vietti family. Robles region in June. tion District. and it parcel. cent grade. clear-cutting thousands didn’t have a permit to grade on of old oak trees as it prepared slopes with more than a 30 per- land for vines and a reservoir. The Resnicks are worth about whether Justin has cleared oaks from Paso Robles has been hit hard by the drought. Krause entered the wine rector of marketing and sales. Smith. 30. will remain as CEO. Inc.properties. buying Barolo’s Enrico includes the brand. “We were asleep at the wheel. “Nothing but a wasteland was left. than 430 locations in 11 states.5 million–gallon pond that will lose 50 per. permits to plant on its 375-acre parcel on Sleepy in 2010 by the Resnicks’ firm.” said Eric On June 9. president and CEO of use the parcels to increase the quality of Krause Holdings. with more manager of the estate. which owns Pom Wonderful. Currado will consult on of vineyards. but it was an unwritten rule But the complaints grew much louder when and plant 5. tied to the U. Tanner. dropped out. “Ponds are terrible for sustainability. Justin Vineyards had received Founded by Justin Baldwin. other area properties. reservoir’s construction. The Upper Salinas– Local officials halted the work Las Tablas Resource Conserva- to investigate. but could create new single-vineyard labels in the future. ogy. they said. while his brother. A week later.to mention our poor reputation within the and revealing simmering tensions in a growing covered dozens of acres of barren hills where community. in addition to California wineries Land. saying they did not know of has terminated a permit for the the project’s impact. the Wonderful Several of Justin’s neighbors tell Wine Spec- Farm Road on Paso Robles’ west side and to dig Company. Cur- Vietti. Elena Penna Currado.” and Kyle Krause. as well as overseeing winemaking. was flying situation at our Sleepy Farm Road property. “My mother’s family is Italian. and Luca Currado rado says he and his team plan to initially For Kyle Krause. the county’s code enforcement storm in California’s Paso agency issued a stop-work order. TOP: CRAIG HEATON. Local media reports have raised questions Neighbors were upset about the reservoir— mark and Hop Kiln. the current of Kum & Go convenience stores. the winery and 84 acres Serafino winery. W O R L D Controversy Erupts Over California Oaks J ustin Vineyards and to county officials. “It will allow of vines in some of Piedmont’s top sites. Solar Transport and a portfolio of real- in-law Mario Cordero will continue as di.there used to be oaks.. not The issue is pitting neighbor against neighbor over the area in his small plane when he dis. estate holdings. Justin’s neighbors took pictures of cleared hillsides where oak trees once stood. winery. as Officials found Justin violated fellow vintners accused the com. according to Forbes. but they’ll be a reservoir. and I have always had a passion for —Bruce Sanderson SEPT. winemaker at Linne Calodo.000 new oaks on their other area that you don’t denude the landscape to plant neighbors noticed the tree removal.apologizing and promising to donate the prop- removal of oaks for agriculture purposes is still cent during the year to evaporation alone. which the company planned to fill Water.” erty to a nonprofit conservation organization legal in our county. Department of Conservation. was purchased by the Krause family of Iowa in July for an undisclosed Italy and for Barolo.” isan. the deal fulfills a long-held desire to own a Barolo their blends. The deal business last year. neighbors took their complaints —MaryAnn Worobiec BAROLO’S VIETTI WINERY SOLD TO AMERICAN FAMILY T he Barolo winery Vietti.” Krause has also acquired nearly 30 acres Currado told Wine Spectator. saying “I went to a neighboring prop. we were ashamed and are sorry. Justin failed to disclose that there erty to take a look and my heart would be any tree removal. Matt Trev.

.

P E O P L E

Updating a Paris Legend
Tour d’Argent owner André Terrail brings new life to the French culinary icon

P
aris’ No. 15 Quai de la Tournelle has been home to legendary res- discussions with the maître d’hôtel. Every moment counts and every
taurant Tour d’Argent for more than two centuries, and a place of moment is an experience. Otherwise, we’re just going to be taken over
hospitality even longer: It is said that King Henry III of France had by these food-delivery companies!
his first encounter with the dining tool we call the “fork” here in the WS: What is it like to work in one of the world’s most expansive,
16th century, and soon everyone wanted to be seen with a fork. But André impressive wine cellars with wine director David Ridgway?
Terrail, the restaurant’s current owner, is just 35, and took over custodi- AT: I’m always impressed with David and the level of his expertise. I
anship of the iconic eatery in 2006 after his father, Claude, died. don’t know of many restaurants that just in terms of Champagne have
The Babson College–educated Terrail is not interested in merely watching such an amazing collection of old magnums: Krug, Roederer, Clicquot.
over a cuisine museum in the Regency-style space, which looks out on Notre There’s so much mystery around those bottles.
Dame. Earlier this year he brought on a new head chef, Philippe Labbé, pre- WS: Do you and David have plans for the wine list in the next five
viously of Paris’ Shangri-La Hotel and the to 10 years?
Chèvre d’Or, as part of a goal to recapture AT: David is going to buy a lot of the
a second Michelin star. New menus put a 2015 vintage. We have to keep the di-
fresh spin on the kitchen’s classics, and the versity going; around 40 percent of our
wine list is making more ambitious forays sales revenue comes from the wine cel-
into the traditionally less-vaunted regions lar. Wines from southern France are
of France.The venue also gave up the ar- becoming more interesting, and in the
ticle historically prefacing its name, though Loire Valley there are many small vine-
Parisians still call it La Tour. yards and regions that still have a lot
Terrail is the third in his line to guide the to offer.
restaurant, which the family bought in WS: Tour d’Argent recently hired chef
1911. Its cellar now boasts 350,000 bottles Philippe Labbé. What are the best
and 14,000 selections, with some vintages qualities he brings to the kitchen?
dating to 1788. Tour d’Argent has received AT: His creativity and his understand-
Wine Spectator’s highest honor, the Grand ing and respect for tradition and
Award, every year since 1986. heritage. He is very relaxed with his
Terrail spoke with Wine Spectator edi- know-how and doesn’t feel like he has
torial assistant Samantha Falewée about to prove anything anymore.
growing up at one of the world’s great din- WS: What changes is he bringing to
ing destinations and the evolution of wine the menu?
and food at the famously traditional AT: We’re keeping the classic menu but
restaurant. tweaking it, especially the presenta-
tion. Aside from that we will have a
Wine Spectator: You lived at No. 15. five-course duck menu. The idea is to
What was your childhood like? go back to our roots. We’re renaming
André Terrail: Actually, the restaurant the [signature pressed-duck dish] “Can-
scared me. It was very vivid; there were eton de Frédéric Delair,” for the name
plenty of people and customers. It was a of the owner of the Tour before my
very scary circus going on around me, André Terrail grandfather, and the one who codified
with those precise methods. And the the recipe.
kitchen was so lively. In the past the cooks used to scream much more WS: Can you tell me about some of the most memorable guests you’ve
than they do today. But in the end, my father made it a very fun place, met at Tour d’Argent?
and we spent a lot of time with him. AT: One day we had two customers who had biked for four days from
By my father’s side I had the opportunity of not only traveling in southern France to Paris and dropped off their bicycles outside the
France but tasting the very best food available at restaurants. Everyone Tour for lunch. Another time, there were two women having lunch
has things they don’t like, but I like everything. I love to try, love to taste. and one of them had beautiful long hair. The other woman told me,
WS: Exceptional hospitality is one of the things Tour d’Argent is “My friend had very bad cancer and went through chemotherapy, and
known for. Have you seen changes in the perception of hospitality I said, ‘Once you get over it, I’ll take you to the Tour d’Argent.’ And
in the dining industry? she got through it.” Some of these stories are very touching. The Tour
AT: It’s definitely our biggest challenge to remain prestigious but main- d’Argent is a meeting place—a place of celebration and a place of
tain an atmosphere that is extremely welcoming, if not fun. Luxury goes happiness, and we’re happy to keep this going.
very well with fun. It’s the key to the future. It’s where we’re going.
The expectations of the customers change constantly. We want to W I N E S P E C TATO R .CO M
make sure we have an almost theaterlike experience, where things are Get more insights into dining, wine pairing and food trends from leading res-
taurateurs, sommeliers and chefs in our online Talk interviews. Find them at
a bit surprising and there are new things in the food, the wine, even the www.winespectator.com/people.

24 WINE SPECTATOR • SEPT. 30, 2016

.

but also anomalies like salmon-pink clarete from They go all out at harvest.lariojaturismo. The three-day camp ($1. One of Logroño’s best-known wineries. “graduation. in addition to room rates) with cooking classes and dinners featuring pointed Château de Verrières. cooks forward-looking cuisine at an the curtain. Following is a collection from around the erates. on the Loire River international level. so you might consider staying in the elegantly ap- days. Château de Saumur. Sept. 2016 • WINE SPECTATOR 27 . —O. Campers are up early for a picking Gehry that undulates in titanium ribbons of pink and gold to represent—what else?—wine session with president and chief winemaker Hugh Davies. Noma and El Celler Can Roca. flowing from a bottle.D. So forgive of year in the wine world. That family still which serve the Basque-influenced version of tapas speared with toothpicks. a guided fresh-pressed juice and base wines. Holly Peterson. 3–11) aims to draw back at El Bulli. which still stands and after which the open access moves indoors for tastings of operates close by.” son Family Wines on a monthly Gourmet Inclusive package ($300 for five Most events are in Saumur. and celebrations of local cuisine and theater. lodging not included) kicks off with a Españolas. and the 4-acre grounds are serene. 11–13. with tastings and of Excellence–winning wine list. which has properties of every stripe in the Medi. service is personal. The Epicurean Experience package includes. Best of all for a home away from home at a wine festival. —Owen Dugan LOCAL LOIRE HOTEL DINING ON THE RIVIERA MAYA Website www. This 19th-century mansion has just 10 rooms. —O. Karisma’s adults-only El Dorado Royale has partnered with Jack. eating and bull-running grow loud at night. The Festival de la Culture du Vin which was recently renovated. TIM GRAHAM/GETTY IMAGES terranean and Caribbean. have a car sent from Hotel Marqués de Riscal.com It was founded by a German barber named Jacob Schram in Every year. The late-night Nearby. The hotel is an offshoot of the original winery.300. in the last days of September. with its meander- and wine at its locations in the Riviera Maya. The Karisma hotel group.schramsberg. However.D. and some regions use the time to host up. and the fruit has to get from vine to winery before it degen. guests can to Meadowood for food-and-wine matching events and choose offerings like Riscal’s Rueda Finca Montico. CLOCKWISE FROM TOP RIGHT: SARA SANGER. its elevated fine-dining restaurant. so guest chefs and wine pairings by winery representatives. mostly for varietals from his homeland. tasting events and dinners. Chef Jonatán Gómez Luna. and it later day of San Mateo and welcomes the new harvest. the nearby town of San Asensio. A tasting at Schramsberg SCHRAMSBERG FALL HARVEST WINE CAMP Hotel Marqués de Riscal Website www. among other things. making it a double-legacy property. large and usually temporary labor forces are lined throw their doors wide open. SEPT.” And for those of you in the back row. For the wine pairings.com Website www. it’s a short walk to the center of town. T R A V E L Wine Harvest Festivals T hey don’t call it “crush” for nothing. Azul Sensatori Mexico apart is Le Chique. you The package begins at $487 per night for two people. the region’s crianza and reserva selections. Go explore Logroño’s iconic pincho bars.com There are few wineries in Napa that boast a Victorian house RIOJA WINE HARVEST FESTIVAL and 100-plus-year-old caves. is within walking distance of the city center. while Petrus Coenders manages the 250-selection Award ing to night. What sets the 400-plus-room ing river and picturesque towns.lechiquerestaurant. Schramsberg is one of them. who has worked (Sept. You can find owns it today. hikes in the vineyards. who guides additional wine and food tast- tire in peace. the Loire can feel a bit forgotten. Rioja Finca Torrea and Rioja Gran Reserva.com Outside of high tourist season. especially emphasizes its dedication to good food in a good way. and that brief world offering differing levels of involvement. Guests go off campus winery tour and tasting menu in the namesake restaurant. Harvest is the busiest time window can determine the success of the entire vintage. drinking. changed hands to Jack and Jamie Davies. Festivities run morn. welcome dinner in the vineyards with chef and enologist But the festivities of parading. Website www. To re. There’s no more crucial time for winemakers. Optimum picking time needs to be wineries for not wanting to host tours then. Bodegas Franco. —Samantha Falewée will learn to saber a bottle. a work of art from architect Frank ings during the event.festivini. some places determined. tasting party in the Royal Abbey of Fontevraud promises a “rock ’n’ roll spirit. 30. Rioja’s capital city of Logroño celebrates the feast 1862. yes.

.

.

Since its founding 10 years ago. co- founder of online grower and roaster community Al- grano.revenues come from national wholesale accounts. “Give customers an option and many will choose to support farmers The subscription model is still the company’s primary outlet. coffee. you can also make one-time purchases. One clip features a Currently. Calif. with tasting notes./THE SACRAMENTO BEE/ZUMA PRESS. processing and roasting. Gilles Brunner. The coffee offered a honeylike sweetness. Pachamama farmers get about $3 a dom as an independent. the coffee cherries of the Manos Campesinas co- operative. An assortment of blends of those origins (and with ment of superior quality. has called it “an empty label..000 feet above sea level by the large tion to two single-origin coffees. unmar- pound for roasted coffee. Mexico and trekking across a long bridge over Ethiopia. 30 WINE SPECTATOR • SEPT.coop). cacao and almond. features photos of farmers. she keeps up with the coffee world through operative. point. for each of the five regional member cooperatives. It now employs 15 people to roast and package the beans and Tremain’s original concept for Pachamama was a coffee version of to sell brewed coffee at the company’s Sacramento café. Nicaragua. different roast levels) is available as well. this extraordinary coffee is a bit more Given its ambition and ever-expanding purview. For now. This coffee is unusual in another way: The beans are roasted and sold by Pachamama Coffee Coopera- tive (www. including shipping—a price that compares fa. showing hints of melon. but well worth it.” But Pachamama.” Tremain notes. named after an Incan fer. Pachamama’s business has grown ers and allocates profits. coffee. And the coffee’s exceptional quality speaks a river to the co-op’s distribution to its meticulous sourcing. You can also buy green beans Mark Pendergrast is the author of Uncommon Grounds. a history of and roast them yourself. cedar oil. Sockolov plans to Oromia cooperative. but retail sales and direct sales online are picking up. about 5. Pachamama is about to launch La Reserva. founded in 2006 by Ohio native and former Peace Corps volunteer To lend a personal touch to the Thaleon Tremain. Catarina According to a 2015 financial snapshot provided Two offerings from Pachamama Yac of Santa Clara savors her free- by the company. pleasing acidity and an underlying hint of understatement” of the beans. a monthly subscrip- from Ethiopia. Under the direction of Jake Sockolov. farmer and a mule laden with tility goddess.” He plans to open other cafés. where they’re paid series of videos provides insight out to co-op members and spent on improvements to into the lives of the cooperatives’ processing facilities. steadily.. and another $6 is returned as profits to the co. local schools and medical care. TOP: PAUL KITAGAKI JR. 2016 . 30. and Beyond Fair Trade. a young wine and coffee spe- In addition to the Guatemalan beans. comprising one spokesperson her cell phone and regional coffee seminars. a meaningless Pachamama CEO Thaleon Tremain (left) and director of coffee Ed Alagozian marketing tool. their coffee is aromatic and rich. In another video. Although the trees do not produce as many cherries as newer hybrids. D. but we’re doing fine. At $20 for 10 ounces. in which block from a Starbucks and Peet’s. Pachamama packaging guiding organic beans from farmer to cup and ensur. 70 percent of the company’s cost $19 for 12 ounces. and a ing all profits flow back to origin. many with food co- vorably with those of other specialty roasters such as Counter Culture operatives. consisting of 6-ounce bags from each of the five trade in this case feels less like a moral obligation than an acknowledg- origin countries. not far from the village of Santa Clara. but now when they can. the enterprise. or overseas. A good cause never tasted so rich. The term has been abused in the past few years. The roasted Santa Clara beans Washington. Pachamama’s board of directors. BOTTOM: COURTESY OF FARM FRESH TO YOU consumers subscribe to regular purchases of produce from local farms. “We’re only a popular community-supported agriculture (CSA) programs.C. he praises the “subtle lemon and wild blueberry. grow on traditional Bourbon and Typica trees. C O F F E E The Mother of Direct-Trade Coffee BY MARK PENDERGRAST H igh in the mountains of southwestern Gua- temala. a farmer-owned company based in Sacramento. practices authentic direct trade. I sampled superb Yirgacheffe cialist. with a satisfying mouthfeel that helps the taste linger.ried female coffee farmer. Peru.000 coffee-growing heavy bags of processed beans families in Guatemala. members. represents some 140. Coffee and Intelligentsia. bright with tangy acidity. that is redefining the scope of “direct-trade” coffee.pacha. grown at around 6. To get a sense of the range of Pachamama’s offerings. you might try With ethical practices buttressed by stunning results in the cup.000 feet above sea level. direct the $50 sampler box. developing into a textbook example of farmer-owned coffee ventures. notes of feature the Yirgacheffe among his first selections. Pachamama is fast expensive than the Santa Clara. represents the farm. perhaps in San Francisco. comparable to an elegant Burgundy.

.

many of these wines offer good value. To produce this top bottling. and the grapes need Luckily for wine drinkers in the United States. 2016 . $38). $28) or Cantine del Notaio’s juicy Basilicata The profile of the Kamai is a textbook example of the Aglianico grape. Winter is very cold. www.winespectator.” says Viviana including the Aglianico del Vulture DOC. 30. But although it contributes less than 1 percent of ing concentration and structure to the wines made from grapes grown Italy’s total wine production. The sweet spot for Aglianico is in vineyards that sit on cent performance of wines from the region’s top DOC: Aglianico Mount Vulture’s southeastern-facing slopes roughly between 1. like diurnal temperatures. and its eastern border with Puglia and a small coastline 2012 (90. Look for Macarico’s landlocked. A thick-skinned variety with high natural acid. fresh. wine styles. $20).” spends almost a year and a half in a mix of tonneau and barrique. and it’s Senior editor Alison Napjus is Wine Spectator’s lead taster on the wines always struck by light. “The volcano gives a strong personality to the wine. tinct volcano of Mount Vulture at the northeastern tip of the region. However. But our wineries are working more and more in positive competition. Harvest is from one bottle to the next. available bottlings are long. such as d’Angelo’s plush red Basili- sion. As a result. cata Canneto 2012 (89. “It’s in the middle of points.” says Elena Fucci. includes some very good examples.” of Basilicata. in southern Italy. and over one-third received an outstanding harvest regularly see temperatures in the 70s during the day and the low score of 90 points or higher on Wine Spectator’s 100-point scale. fresh- Scrinzi. they make it hard for consumers to know what to expect ity. land is hilly. Though the framework is now in place for more bottlings from DOC areas. The wine freshness and minerality. and spring and summer are very 2011 ($48). The growing season and region over the past year. which is centered on the ex. and is almost entirely added bonus. These are wines made from riper grapes from the best sites in the DOC area. dominated by versions from the Aglianico del Vulture DOC. many vineyards are located at higher altitudes. in the last 10 to 15 years. Nearly half wines for their combination of ripe fruit. Basilicata in southern Italy is just a blip on the Vulture’s dark volcanic soil is free-draining and mineral-rich. typically at the end of October or early November. 32 WINE SPECTATOR • SEPT. … Minerality. $20). altitude. impart- radar screen. This as three years aging in bottle before release. W I N E F O C U S Big Reds From Southern Italy The Aglianico grape shines with expressive versions from Basilicata BY ALISON NAPJUS B y the numbers. with a freshness that helped to balance firm tannic structure. Malafarina. (A free 60s at night. Agli- anico del Vulture Superiore and Superiore Riserva were granted DOCG status in 2010. its output shines based on the re.to 60-year-old vines. I have blind-tasted more than 80 wines from the Basilicata 1. Also. I enjoyed these along the Ionian Sea. It’s a tightly knit. and these sites also enjoy abundant sunshine to promote alphabetical list of scores and prices for all wines tasted is available at ripening in the Aglianico grapes. three new DOCs have been approved: Grottino di Roccanova. Matera and Terre dell’Alta Val d’Agri. this report’s highest rating goes to the grippy San Martino Kamai the mountain. dense ver. That is my south of Italy. “The first message is to tell people about Basilicata.000 and del Vulture. San Martino owner and wine. As an Basilicata sits at the instep of the Italian boot.com/093016. Aglianico del Vulture was Basilicata’s only DOC area. and the majority of the rest of the acter. “But there are also more ness.” says Christian and the quality of the wines is growing. Grifalco della Lucania’s Gricos Tyrrhenian Sea. as well For more than 30 years. $25). It’s never very hot. winemaker at Basilisco. it is well-suited to southern Italy’s Mediterranean climate. at 93 with her namesake estate’s 2013 Titolo (90.600 feet.” STEFANO SCATÀ important factors. head winemaker at Terre degli Svevi. who produced a sleek example All of these outstanding wines were from Aglianico del Vulture. in the area. But even though these categories give which typically shows bright red and black fruit accented by savory spice. and they see additional ag- ing before release. the region’s producers freedom to explore different grape varieties and herb and balsamic notes. with a large diurnal difference—this is very important for the maker Lorenzo Piccin uses fruit from 50. where cooler temperatures prevail.) “Vulture is different. sunny summer days to ripen their flavors and formidable tannins. savory spice and mineral char- of Basilicata is made up of mountains. the general Basilicata IGT and 62 percent as vino da tavola. yet it offers expressive crushed black cherry and herb notes. Rosato Il Rogito 2014 (89. “To do this label by label is hard. It shares its western border with Campania and a sliver of the Aglianico del Vulture 2011 (91. the current reality is that roughly 18 percent of the region’s wine is produced from Aglianico vineyards cover the hilly landscape of Basilicata. The region of Calabria lies to the south. $17) and Bisceglia’s Gudarrà 2012 (90.

WINE SCORE PRICE WINE SCORE PRICE SAN MARTINO Aglianico del Vulture Kamai 2011 93 $48 VIGNETI DEL VULTURE Aglianico del Vulture 91 $38 A grippy red. tobacco and star anise. underscored by tarry details. Calls for CANTINE DEL NOTAIO Basilicata Rosato Il Rogito 2014 89 $20 grilled beef now. GRIFALCO DELLA LUCANIA Aglianico del Vulture Gricos 2012 90 $17 SAN MARTINO Aglianico del Vulture Arberesko 2013 92 $35 This is medium-bodied and focused. eucalyptus and ground pink pepper. accented by black olive. hot stone and balsamic. while silky tannins and notes of wild herb and loamy Tar and dried herb notes on the nose underscore creamed cherry. fig bread and dried herb notes. aromatic red. with notes of dried cranberry. leading to savory leather and grilled herb. red licorice and dried thyme notes. with a smoky. as well as fruit. dried fig dried cranberry and graphite. with apricot. 2016 • WINE SPECTATOR 33 . presenting a well-spiced. mocha Medium-bodied. A harmonious version. bittersweet chocolate. Spicy mineral notes echo on the chewy palate. DE LEONARDIS Aglianico del Vulture Piano del Moro 2011 88 $18 CARBONE Aglianico del Vulture 400 Some 2011 91 $25 This shows balance and a fresh mix of dried cranberry and cherry A savory red. dried herb and fleur de sel. spice box and graphite define this light-bodied. offer- yet harmonious overall. flavors of plumped black cherry. loamy earth. corn notes.com members can access complete reviews for all wines tasted using the online Wine Ratings search. ing accents of mocha and mint. Asian five-spice powder and smoke. with ripe fruit. cassis and dried fig flavors. A free alphabetical list is available at www. currant. rippling with candied cassis and black cherry fruit. grilled herb. tarry TERRE DEGLI SVEVI Aglianico del Vulture Re Manfredi 2011 92 $35 mineral and dried thyme notes in this red framed by chewy tannins. CANTINE DEL NOTAIO Aglianico del Vulture Il Sigillo 2010 92 $75 A rich red. flavors accented by mandarin orange peel and ground pink pepper. and burly tannins. offering well-knit flavors of black olive. VIGNETI DEL VULTURE Basilicata Rosato Pipoli 2015 86 $15 Bright. A rich rosé. light tannins and a creamy palate of DE LEONARDIS Aglianico del Vulture Masculetum 2011 91 $25 plumped cherry. star anise and singed orange peel flavors. this chewy A grippy. tar and black olive accents. with sleek tannins and well- There’s a subtle ferrous edge to this focused red.com/093016. featuring dried mint. offering a subtle finish. 30. spice box. D’ANGELO Aglianico del Vulture Valle del Noce 2010 91 $30 Fig cake and mocha accents enrich ripe notes of spiced cherry and BASILISCO Aglianico del Vulture Teodosio 2011 88 $19 wild strawberry. Bright GRIFALCO DELLA LUCANIA Basilicata Rosato Frà 2015 88 $16 and focused. and spice accents on the creamy palate. but fresh and harmonious. tobacco. licorice The black cherry and fresh earth flavors are focused in this harmoni- and olive tapenade. almond. with bright acidity. medium-bodied red. Re Manfredi Serpara 2010 TENUTA I GELSI Basilicata Gelso Rosso 2014 86 $16 Tar and smoke notes lead the way in this muscular red. Well-knit and lightly chewy. VIGNETI DEL VULTURE Greco-Fiano Basilicata Pipoli 2015 87 $15 TERRE DEGLI SVEVI Aglianico del Vulture 91 $49 A light-bodied white. elegant Aglianico. dried fig. accenting flavors of spiced flavors of raspberry puree. dried herb and mandarin orange peel flavor. smoke. fig earth drive the juicy finish. dried thyme. leather. underscoring Candied raspberry and crème de cassis flavors are up-front and lively. ous red. D’ANGELO Aglianico del Vulture 2012 90 $20 corn notes accenting the flavors of damson plum preserves. star anise. cake. with wild herb. A toasty red. complemented by ripe Honeycrisp apple and pear flavors. and herb. D’ANGELO Basilicata Sacravite 2013 87 $15 TENUTA DEL PORTALE Aglianico del Vulture 91 $27 Herb. Ground spice and cured tobacco are an aromatic entry point for this with Earl Grey tea and orange bergamot accents on the finish. SEPT. but this could use some time in the cellar. fig bread and ground spice flavors. wrapped around grippy tannins. This is firm and focused. chewy finish. red offers bright acidity and flavors of baked cherry. with candied black cherry and dried strawberry fruit. Tomato leaf and wild herb aromatics lead to flavors of strawberry MACARICO Aglianico del Vulture Macarì 2013 88 $17 preserves and prune in this grippy. framed by supple tannins and bright acidity. dried marjoram and orange zest. with taut tannins wrapped in expressive crushed black Piano del Cerro 2011 cherry. mocha and spice. underscored by hints of fresh. minerally underpinning. tangy. loamy earth.winespectator. with a sanguine edge to the The richly tarry nose of this dry red is layered with flavors of sun-dried dried cherry. Balanced. CAMERLENGO Aglianico del Vulture 2009 91 $33 BASILISCO Sophia White NV 88 $19 Well-spiced and lively. MADONNA DELLE GRAZIE Aglianico del Vulture Liscone 2010 90 $18 Lavender and dusty ground spice accent raspberry compote. plushly textured red. and graphite. star anise and candied orange zest in this medium-bodied red. LELÙSI Aglianico del Vulture 2005 91 $35 MASTRODOMENICO Basilicata Mos 2012 88 $19 This aging red is still fresh and focused. with dark and tangy wild berry and herb Offers hints of fresh earth. Opulent. floral and tar notes. W I N E F O C U S ALISON NAPJUS’ RECOMMENDED WINES FROM BASILICATA More than 80 wines were reviewed for this report. WineSpectator. crushed blackberry. PATERNOSTER Aglianico del Vulture Rotondo 2011 92 $50 BISCEGLIA Aglianico del Vulture Gudarrà 2012 90 $25 Lovely and aromatic. green pear and candied orange. this brooding red features a core of steeped cherry. Le Vigne a Capanno 2011 Candied raspberry and plumped cherry fruit notes leap from the glass BISCEGLIA Aglianico del Vulture Terra di Vulcano 2013 87 $13 of this well-knit red. Dense and smoky. Offers wild strawberry and cherry fruit layered with juicy acidity and accents of candied kumquat. cocoa powder. dogwood blossom and white truffle.

pear. $18) Black cherry. tobacco. floral. 2016 . almond Priorat Les Sanadaive 2012 (93. leather. Tasting notes and scores for those wines. smoky cherry. tobacco. CHÂTEAU D’EPIRÉ Savennières 2014 (90. Pinot Noir from Alsace. $18) among reviews of nearly 650 new orange peel.com using the Wine Ratings search. 95 Philippe Colin Le Vigne a Capanno 2011 (91. dense. white peach. tar. IN THIS ISSUE’S BUYING GUIDE OSTERTAG Riesling Alsace dark cherry. $24) ments the peach. releases. while the two whites pro. green almond Sauvignon figures in the three JEAN-MICHEL GERIN Viog. Tavel La Dame Rousse 2015 Cabernet Sauvignon Alto (91. tar. mountain herb and mineral. toasted spice. graceful. 2011 (91. Top producers Barrameda La Goya NV (90. mirabelle plum. peach. CLOS FIGUERAS Priorat Serras del Priorat 2014 (90. intense. cherry. SMART BUY Elegant. savory. melon. salted butter. green apple. reds. including a few of my DOMAINE DES BAUMARD Savennières 2014 favorites. Asian pear. CARBONE Aglianico del Vulture 400 Some north to Sherry in the south. lemon parfait. chalk Renaissance Cuvée Boisée 2013 (90. petrol SELECTIONS close. quince HIGHLY RECOMMENDED Dogliani is Dolcetto from one of its masters. CHÂTEAU DE GAUDOU Malbec Cahors Terrasses plum. traditional baking spice flavors in this enticing white. $21) Focused. black Le Haut-Lieu 2015 (93. dense. With more than $28) Bone-dry. graphite. yellow ANWILKA Petit Frère Stellen- dried green herbal plum. black olive. mountain herb SMART BUY If you are looking for great values from France. $25) Wild herb. $28) DRY CREEK Sauvignon Blanc than 425 outstanding wines from Harmonious. herb. $16) Talc. white peach. EN FRANÇAIS vanilla. lemon. $22) Elegant. The Barbaresco is Nebbiolo and the (90. $17) Sleek. almond. $22) Ripe. $26) Salted butter. Palacios MARCO & VITTORIO Adriano Barbaresco quince. bright. lemon and toasty pure. raspberry lar. COLLECTIBLE cassis. fresh —Bruce Sanderson 34 WINE SPECTATOR • SEPT. mineral. from Rioja in the notes of vanilla. mocha. Cabernet peach. 88 Viña Santa La Champine 2014 (91. 500 known varieties. $26) Blood orange. lime. SPECTATOR Italy is awash in native grapes. melon. with Great value from the New a dense core of DOMAINE HUËT Vouvray Sec World is the common theme dark berry. apricot. cherry. herb. muscu. chewy TELMO RODRÍGUEZ Toro Dehesa Gago 2014 TENUTA DEL PORTALE Aglianico del Vulture (91. $22) Black cherry. Cachapoal Grand Reserve strawberry. fennel. $20) Carolina Green fig. ripe. plum sauce red plum and DOMAINE DE LA MORDORÉE CHATEAU LOS BOLDOS berry flavors. mon. blackberry. racy. notes to the fresh smoke. can be found at WineSpectator Saering 2013 (91. Dried cherry. $25) ough 2015 (89. from across the globe. earth. cherry. DELGADO ZULETA Manzanilla Sanlúcar de 90 Chalone this selection runs the gamut. berry. boysenberry. ripe You’ll find 24 classic wines and more Vignoble d’E 2014 (91. earth and Ripe. tobacco CHILE Zesty. mineral boysenberry. plum. quince. delicate. ginger. fresh herb. muscular Chevalier- raspberry. . tight depth. cola. unctuous gnon Stellenbosch 2013 (92. dry Chalone Gavilan 2013 $22 Rhône are represented. tar. S A V V Y S H O P P E R VIVA ITALIA TRIMBACH Riesling Alsace Réserve 2014 (91. persim. mineral a members-only service. along CALIFORNIA This is with a modern take on the his- strikingly rich and toric appellation of Cahors. acacia blossom. bright. $32) Dried fig. cherry. Cabernet cedar flavors that hold their own. black olive. 30. spice. boysenberry. Here is a short list. dried herbs. Sauvignon ALBERT MANN Pinot Gris $24) Alluring. Antigua Clásico Reserva 2008 (90. along with more than 800 DOMAINES SCHLUMBERGER CASTELLO DI MON. mineral. Dry Creek Valley 2015 (89. smoke. $27) Candied mineral. black currant. $22) 2014 $40 ROCCA DI FABBRI Montefalco Sagrantino Full-bodied. kumquat. spice Vibrant. violet candy. fig. the Loire and the suckle. zesty. 2014 $213 Vulture Gricos 2012 (90. mineral. tea. white ERNIE ELS Cabernet Sauvi. black cherry SPAIN This graceful 2011 (93. 93 Álvaro $21) Creamed yellow apple. bosch 2013 (90. leafy. strawberry. dried marjoram. green tea additional wines reviewed since our last Riesling Alsace Grand Cru SANTO Chianti Classico GIESEN Pinot Gris Marlbor- issue. blackberry. juicy 2014 (90. leather. no other country comes Meyer lemon zest. BEST VALUE nier Collines Rhodaniennes long the feeling of summer. $32) Juicy. juicy orange peel. Here’s a quick tour of several of Spain’s most berry flavors with raspberry. Colchagua Valley Reserva 2014 $11 Alsace Rosenberg 2014 (91. stone. honey. WANDERLUST complex. vanilla. with $24) Vibrant. tobacco. jicama. $15) Juicy. mineral FRANCE A whiff of puree. white peach. loamy earth. spice CIA DES VINOS DEL ATLÁNTICO Rioja La seashore comple- PECCHENINO Dogliani San Luigi 2015 (90. melon cherry. raspberry torte. black pepper exalted regions and styles. red shows good herb. mineral. $17) Roasted plum. charcoal. balancing LA BRACCESCA Syrah Cortona Achelo 2014 SKETCHES OF SPAIN juicy cherry and (92. $29) Dried Riserva 2013 (91. orange zest. spice BODEGAS VIÑA VILANO Ribera del Duero Montrachet GRIFALCO DELLA LUCANIA Aglianico del Crianza 2013 (91. talc. $32) among this diverse selection licorice. dried fig. $26) Concentrated.

.

.

It had a magical Monte Bello’s equal in stature. trac- owned it knew their limits. it re. Ridge had essen. own spirit. Monte Bello is primal. a devout Ridge lover in Japan bought the winery. Eventu- aura. Draper says he is finally ready to bow out.com/laube. ized it needed a real winemaker. Those challenge his marks. overlooked by many. Draper. and Ridge had found its new leader. JAMES LAUBE The Outsider I n 1969. and Pagani Ranch. in Sonoma Valley. In The winery also paid tribute to dozens of old vineyards in areas some vintages. in this Château Latour offered Draper Draper’s assured presence. lieved that old vines were the best and yielded the most unique He has been phasing out of Ridge for the past decade. the great first-growth it also had its added new vineyards and grew in repu. any story about Ridge or Since its founding a Draper would be incomplete without a decade earlier. Draper and Ridge ford philosophy student who had served embodied the Francophile spirit of cel- in the Army and the Peace Corps and ebrating not only old vines and ancient who. In a sense he’s like the old Zinfan- homes for decades. putting names like Dusi Chardonnays could easily pass for grand cru white Burgundy. It championed old-vine Zinfandel and Draper’s fascination with Cabernet obscure reds and employed an Old philosophy student who led him in 1971 to buy grapes from World mentality inside its Santa Cruz aspired to be a winemaker. He remains a powerful. claim. and the trio of scien. Senior editor James Laube has been with Wine Spectator since 1981. Now 80. del vine that stubbornly refuses to surrender to the motions of time.300-foot ele- tation. In 1986. Petite Sirah and even Chardonnay. but exit- wines. contained him and his successors. Ranch on the labels. but of wines Ridge fancied quickly proved while Monte Bello reminded him of the right fit. in Dry That Ridge’s wines today are better than ever is a tribute to Creek Valley. Another facet Draper focused tained its cultish charm and never on was longevity: He considered how moved into the mainstream the way In 1969 Ridge hired Paul long and well a wine aged to be a mea- many other California wineries did. Not only elevating Ridge to international ac. We’ll see. but in the meantime Draper proved he could master Napa Cab- Six decades and 47 vintages later. his quizzi. albeit a net Sauvignon from its home Monte sophisticated one. an underappreciated blending grape. these becoming Ridge’s little secret. Milt Eisele’s vineyard in Napa Valley. SEPT. and so trusted Draper that he didn’t change a thing. Draper be. a 33-year-old former Stan. They’re dependable. after studying French and Italian methods but also classical grapes. aspired to be a winemaker.winespectator. so did to an elite level as well. spiritual and inspirational figure. discussion of what Draper considered tially been a weekends-only the winery’s crown jewel—the Caber- home-winemaking operation. old vines are like people who have lived in their ing isn’t easy. the best model. He loved Latour and cal mind and his passion for the kinds Cabernet as much as any Bordelais. with the latter of by demonstrating its full potential. field blends of off-beat grapes planted in the 1880s that had then surrounded himself with a disciplined team that would largely been ignored as vintners pursued trendier wines. Mountains facility. a former Stanford sure of its greatness. Draper set the bar at the highest level. Join the conversation with other members at www. Of course. Some sites. Ridge Vineyards real. the delightfully rich and stylish estate-grown such as Sierra Foothills and Paso Robles. Bello Vineyard. They’re able to adjust and stay strong. however. Draper had landed his dream job ally the Eisele grapes went elsewhere. 2016 • WINE SPECTATOR 37 . Draper can reflect on an ernet. resting at a 2. While Cabernet and Zinfandel intrigued Draper. W I N E S P E C TATO R . like Lytton Springs. with winemakers. ery it overlooked. All the while. the draw GREG GORMAN In his blogs. They hired ing its roots as far back as the old win- Paul Draper. 30. and cuisine. This is his life. James Laube shares updates from his recent tastings and visits might be hard for him to resist.CO M and once the tempo of the next harvest gains rhythm. For me. vation. The winery modernized. ress had it not been for the respect Ridge gave them. Like Ridge’s other tists and fine-wine intellectuals who vineyards. They’re predictable. amazing career. he took Zinfandel. mentor’s stature and presence. rescuing the variety from insignificance Mataro. even as they appreciate the value of their stumpy vines would have been plowed under in the name of prog. and discusses hot-button issues in the wine industry.

.

.

with so-called natural wines? cry. Why would I have problems declaration has become such a rallying But in this case I find myself truly torn. And you must employ pristine bottling protocols. Instead. become simultaneously a rallying cry Can you use too much of it? Yes.winespectator. Your enough anymore to pursue a vision of greater purity. It’s attractively idealistic. Rarely do I straddle fences. would I. he has impeccable radical Can such sulfur-free wines be truly credentials. Many tasters (myself included) consider Rhys the source of use of such high-tech gizmos as spinning cones. one of degree. barrels must be impeccably clean. what previously sufficed as allegiance no longer serves an even Is it doable? Certainly it is. the which is a loudly proclaimed rejection other British. It is now not enough to actually taste your wines and conclude that they W I N E S P E C TATO R . have problems with Harvey told me. except—and this is a big exception—for the grades that ambition. But it’s harder to achieve than more radicalized contingent. about his use of sul- span of years. 30. I forget now Wines now are proudly sold to us as who we were talking about.com/kramer. That’s not much. But if my expe- vulsed in laughter. as is often the case. not that meaningful.) Matt Kramer has contributed to Wine Spectator regularly since 1985. superior? Yes. It’s intellectually Part of me is more than sympathetic appealing. and guiding spirit of Rhys Vineyards.” With that we all con. that none has been of us considered preposterous. these wines that I have both tasted and purchased are unclean. I get it. around 20 [parts per mil- They have off smells and tastes. It sounds good. we bottle with low SO2. For our part. ing. is I asked Kevin Harvey. that pursuit has become ideological.” It’s challenging to craft a truly clean wine from crush to bottling So why is the rallying cry of “no sulfur” so strident? It’s not unless you’re rigorous in winery and winemaking cleanliness. you must have Don’t miss Matt Kramer’s Web-exclusive essays and lively online discussions at impeccable radical credentials. they call “manipulated. finished wine. to what adherents of natural wine seek. It becomes subject to a po- ing winery surfaces and diligent in monitoring wines in barrel or liticized litmus test. 2016 . some of California’s finest Pinot Noirs and Chardonnays. www. cask.CO M reflect the desired purity of expression. Far from elevating wine to new lion]. I daresay that few other writers have. of all people. MATT KRAMER Impeccable Radical Credentials I was once on a long car trip harder by what has become today’s with my wife and two visiting most powerful signifier of naturalness. very positive effects on stability offered by that dose of low sulfur. added just before bottling as a prophy- She defended her side against our lactic against bacteria or yeasts in the gleeful onslaughts and ended by declar. The conversation of the use of sulfur.” That. rience is anything to go by. turned to politics. vacuum concen. deeply disappointing. The difference between that and zero is heights of ethereal purity. Here’s the kicker: Such effort is made even This is what has occurred with natural wines. which is why the “no sulfur” detractors. Still. too. why sulfur has been used for centuries: called natural wine that I found. “I taste a lot of our wine without sulfur while it’s in barrel. 40 WINE SPECTATOR • SEPT. herself included. “And I just don’t see the big deal or positive so-called natural wines? It’s surprisingly simple: Too many of difference of no sulfur as long as the sulfur dioxide is kept low. tor of off flavors and smells. “Well. much It works. You must be obsessive in clean. but all visitors may read them. friends. Instead. It’s surprisingly simple: Too The problem. then. for its proponents and a red flag to its you can. Sulfur is an effective inhibi- as I have others. moreover. Like all such ideological causes everywhere.” So why. such an I thought of this memorable phrase achievement is rare. is namely wines that have not been what many of them are unclean. they can. as well as Now. you might imagine. the term “natural wine” has an effective antioxidant. There’s a reason recently while drinking yet another so. the owner a word that’s become a flash point. over a long which is “artisanal” by anybody’s definition.” meaning that no sulfur has British friend staked out a defense of been used in the winemaking process the politician’s policies that the rest and. but our “no sulfur. trators and reverse osmosis machines. written more openly than I against the habitual fur. (Only members may post comments. too often this very “naturalness” de. one Australian.

.

it has a couple of Paumanok.” says Olsen-Harbich. Long Island Chardonnay costs $25 or more per bottle. Most of that is guzzled down by summer really speak for Long Island. grapes tallier have been through the area. Long Island’s wines are be- W I N E S P E C TATO R . Merlot and Chardonnay. I is. tries out different wine pairings and more. tiveness and quality are going to help shadow vineyards) chips in with 250 Long Island distinguish itself. I’d say it’s past time for Long Island to step up. “Clearly Loire varietals do generations under its belt. I believe acres and an additional three wineries. but Bordeaux varieties do too. And they’re coming from a tighter range be frank.000 cases annually. it’s still modest in size. Clovis Point and a few others are fi- has slowed Long Island down? nally dialing down to what Long Island does best. what it can do sufficiently. Long Island was a tourist region first. winemaker of 1970s. “In some ways we’re limited by the ard Olsen-Harbich. Michel Rolland and the late Paul Pon. not. such as Cabernet Franc. growth has been steady. As many as 22 different wines. wine regions. grapes we grow. Paumanok also takes a wide-angle a consumer you’ll have to head out there to get access to most of the wines. in global terms. After all. But Given this accumulation of exper. are better matches with food and. so irrigation is needed. Join the conversation with other members at www. rather than merely to hang our hat. What But Bedell. withstanding a few Manhattan restaurants or retail stores. greater detail. So if distinc- Fork (where weekend homes over. taste more But perhaps the real reason Long Island hasn’t broken out is like Long Island than a cookie-cutter Merlot from anywhere else. Today there are 57 wineries draw. And to purer expressions of fruit.CO M coming worth the effort to seek out. clay mix. made significantly more progress in that same time period. Lieb Cellars’ Rus. 30. pretty don’t know what I would leave out. and winemaking expe. ies. production today totals only about merely what it can do sufficiently. The South with attentive viticulture. Senior editor James Molesworth has been with Wine Spectator since 1997. humidity pose some challenges. It makes it more dif- of Long Island winemaking on their ficult to figure out where we’re going résumés. The wines rarely make it into mainstream distribution. Outside consultants such as does best. Winemakers such as Bedell’s Rich. Lieb Cellars. AVAs it. it will come from a narrowing of focus. while the The result of this new focus is a spate of wines that show majority of Finger Lakes Rieslings. Also. But all these issues can be overcome ing grapes from 2. The result is wines that can 500. rather than Well.” short. James Molesworth shares updates from his recent tastings and a treasure hunt.com/molesworth. for example.200 acres. 1990s. Many of Long Island will never be able to increase production to a its wineries produce numerous bottlings—Wölffer Estate has as point where its wines push themselves into the mainstream. It’s fair to Long Island’s soil varies. Founded in the says Charles Massoud.winespectator. “If I started over today. Most grapevines grow well in Still. fact that so many grapes can be grown sell Hearn and the Massoud family of Long Island wineries should out here that we sometimes wind up Paumanok all have more than 25 years dial down to what the region all over the place. These are wines that emphasize beach-goers who flock to the small resort towns that dot the two lighter-bodied structure and rely more on acidity. 42 WINE SPECTATOR • SEPT. In most U. yes. the scattershot approach took hold as wineries felt Long Island began growing wine seriously at about the same time the need to provide something for everyone who walked into the as Oregon and New York’s Finger Lakes.” rience takes time to accrue. The good news now is.S. well. Because of that. tise. By the rapidly. visits with winemakers. JAMES MOLESWORTH Coming Into Focus L ong Island’s wine history approach. But it has an Achilles heel: It drains were drawn up in the 1980s. Weaning itself off this tactic may take some time. ask under $20. 2016 . the North Fork had about 1. because it has yet to figure out what it should focus on. that depend less on oak influence and focus more on brighter.700 the generally cool climate and high acres of vines and 21 operating winer. but vineyards take time to mature and We’re happy with the eight different be understood. They’re wines forks. silt and remains in its early stages. but not say that Long Island’s wine industry much—it’s basically a sand. and these rivals have tasting room. And it’s a beautiful place for DAVID YELLEN In his blogs. quality has never quite matched the prices–a typical of varieties. came first and tourism followed.

.

BY OWEN DUGAN • PRIMERS BY DAVID GIBBONS PHOTOGRAPHS BY ANDREW PURCELL • FOOD STYLING BY CARRIE PURCELL .

30. Charlie Palmer Steak Barbara Lynch. Trois Mec Michael Rafidi. RN74 José Andrés. No. COOKING WITH CHEESE A CODEX TO 10 ICONIC CHEESE TYPES. Alma de Cuba Ryan Lory. Jaleo 67 SWISS CHEDDAR 70 73 GOUDA 77 PARMIGIANO- 80 BLUE Cubano Sandwich Mac & Cheese Walnut Gouda Soufflé REGGIANO Duck Wings With Cheese Sauce Douglas Rodriguez. 9 Park Risotto Cacio e Pepe Mike Ward Massimo Bottura The Restaurant at Wente Vineyards Osteria Francescana SEPT. WITH CLASSIC AND MODERN RECIPES FROM TOP CHEFS. Spruce Ludo Lefebvre. Fennel & Manchego Salad Nancy Silverton. 2016 • WINE SPECTATOR 45 . PLUS WINE MATCHES MOZZARELLA 47 51 GOAT 57 BRIE 61 ÉPOISSES MANCHEGO 64 Burrata Caprese Pavé With Honey Gelée Crème de Brie With Apple Butter Époisses Toast Apple. Osteria Mozza Mark Sullivan.

.

(Burrata is a type at specialty groceries. (Beyond that. that’s converted to those curds is crucial. unaged cheese—mild. “Not many people knew about burrata when we tan’s Little Italy still buy curds from local first opened. It’s the best way to guarantee their licious as what you'd find in Italy. its name water buffalo.”—ELIZABETH HONG. About 83 million pounds of Mozzarella di A fine fresh mozzarella has a smooth. which is where the finest in the cat. And two relatively new Colombian arrivals. near Na- turing creamy highlights and lightly Four Mozzarella Icons ples. Now. southern fresh-cut flowers—which has opened up California’s DiStefano Premium Italian the channel for their rich. Mozzarella di Bufala Campana PDO. MOZZA zarellas are called Fior di Latte. Celebrated as the king of the milk of the Italian Mediterranean breed of pasta filata (pulled curd) types. MOZZARELLA FRESH IS THE WORD M ozzarella stands alone among shop will offer one that’s either been the world’s great cheeses for stretched in the back or brought in fresh.” which is exactly what the iron than cow’s milk. It’s become the of mozzarella in a pouch shape. yielding consistency its PDO zone. Its texture is striated. helped introduce burrata cheese to Los Angeles site 24-hour period. yeasty and meaty flavors. And dairy farmers have piggybacked U. about 9 percent is exported Annabella Buffalo Cheeses uu that of a cooked chicken breast.S. reasonable to expect that any good cheese SEPT. New Jersey’s Lioni Latticini and be flown to the U. EXECUTIVE CHEF. Būf Creamery uu the same time—in one of those delectable Small plastic tubs of genuine Mozzarella DiStefano Premium Italian Cheese uu dichotomies found in the finest cheeses— di Bufala Campana PDO with the Gusto- Gustosella uu soft and creamy enough that a sharp knife sella brand label are now widely available will glide right through. Of that. 2016 • WINE SPECTATOR 47 . Reflecting the cheese traditions of their Burrata Caprese ancestral homeland. moist. regional producers—among them on another Colombian export business— Connecticut’s Calabro Cheese. as well as parts of the surrounding re- acidic notes. fea. Bufala Campana are produced annually in pliable texture. thankfully. soft. Texas’ Mozzarella Company—to extend the reach of their cheeses. lactic and ers more depth of flavor and adds satisfying inviting in flavor—the quality of the milk hints of musty. provinces of Caserta and Salerno. herds to free-graze on grasses 12 months a is made.) These delicious cow’s milk moz. Būf frigerated air-freight and packaging allowed while it may still be preferable to minimize Creamery and Annabella Buffalo Cheeses. This is perhaps surprising until you envi- stay as fresh as they were the morning they borhood cheesemakers. 30. old-style Italian- American delis like DiPalo’s in Manhat. And precisely because it’s a hanced by the use of buffalo milk. meaning “to higher levels of fat. rendering it superior cheesemaker does in order to hand-form for many types of cheese. cheeses to cross oceans and continents and carbon footprints and support your neigh.) was your local producer. We found a local cheesemaker that dairies and stretch them into mozzarella was able to supply burrata daily that was as de- daily. on it. lombia’s near-equatorial climate allows egory. Co- Italy. It deliv- young. all bets (maybe even America?) by using it in a recog- are off. Mozza really customers can eat them within the requi. They’ve also enabled top-drawer year. but at to the United States annually. modern logistics sion the vast amounts of warm. calcium and cut or pull off. daily. lush have spared us a lot of round-trip airfare to mountain pasturage available there. protein. which has significantly comes from the verb mozzare. like gion. the premium it places on purity Mozzarella di bufala is made from the and freshness. the only choice for mozzarella benchmark of Italian imports. which comprises the entire and fresh lactic aromas and flavors. filled with were made. and so too may be your insalata nizable dish like a caprese and putting our twist BOTTOM: ANDIA/ALAMY caprese. All the desirable each successive lump of elastic curds into qualities of a classic Fior di Latte are en- a cheese.S. but it has oozy cream and curds. there are several additional options. some serious competition at the top from Until relatively recent advances in re. fresh cheeses to Cheese. and it’s RESTAURANT GROUP Curds are kneaded and shaped while warm.

and puree. 1 teaspoon fresh lemon juice. RECIPE 1 ½ pounds fresh burrata Maldon salt or other flaky sea salt. Add the remain- ing basil. Roast tomatoes until the skins are shriveled but hours. packed and adding more oil if necessary. 30. and acidity ¼ cup freshly grated Silverton is a nice counterbalance for the rich. TO ROAST THE CHERRY TOMATOES 1 pound sweet small tomatoes. Drizzle each with about 1/2 teaspoon oil. and chopped. garnish with fresh basil and serve with the fett’unta. Remove them from the oven. Top with clusters of 5 to 7 tomatoes. cut side up. $14) cessor fitted with a metal blade (or combine Wine Spectator Best of Award of Excellence in a blender).mozza Fiano di Avellino 2014 (90. Also. Season to taste. Pulse until the mixture is finely 48 WINE SPECTATOR • SEPT. stopping as soon as TO MAKE THE BASIL PESTO WINE MATCH the ingredients form a homogenous paste. down the sides of the bowl. taking care to keep them attached to the stems. plus more to taste burrata makes it a logical pairing. Gently put the tomatoes on the rack. and spoon 1 table- spoon of pesto over each portion of cheese. to taste Los Angeles PORTRAIT: RON TOM/ABC/GETTY IMAGES MOZZA RESTAURANT GROUP Telephone (323) 297-0100 WINE SPECTATOR ALTERNATES: Colli di Lapio Combine 2 cups basil. La Guardiense and 1/2 cup olive oil in the bowl of a food pro. “Campania being a home for mozzarella and 1 teaspoon kosher salt. Season with sea salt. plus more as herbaceous notes and acidity of the wine needed Nancy are a great match for the pesto. Serves 6. for garnish Six 1-inch slices fett’unta (grilled bread rubbed with garlic and drizzled with olive oil) Cut the burrata into 6 equal-size segments and lay each segment. the 1 cup extra-virgin olive oil.com Falanghina Sannio Guardiolo 2013 (88. about 1 1/2 cool to room temperature. Turn off the machine and scrape the tomatoes are still plump. 2016 .. stems attached 1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil 1 teaspoon kosher salt ½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper Preheat oven to 300° F with rack in middle position. the Parmigiano-Reggiano and 1/2 cup olive oil. Turn the Feudi di San Gregorio Fiano di 2 tablespoons toasted pine nuts pesto out into a bowl and stir in the lemon Avellino 2012 2 garlic cloves juice. salt Website www. GENERAL MANAGER & BEVERAGE DIRECTOR. Place a wire rack on top of a baking sheet. such as fleur de sel Slow-Roasted Cherry Tomatoes (recipe follows) ¼ cup plus 2 tablespoons Basil Pesto (recipe follows) Finishing-quality extra-virgin olive oil 30 to 40 micro or miniature fresh basil leaves. restaurantgroup. Parmigiano-Reggiano OSTERIA MOZZA creamy cheese. $30). on a salad plate. garlic. or 6 large fresh basil leaves. pine nuts. plus more 6602 Melrose Ave. and season with the salt and pepper. 4 cups basil leaves. Brush the tomatoes with the olive oil.”—SARAH CLARKE.

.

evident in 94 only the finest Cabernet Beaulieu Sauvignons and heralded Vineyard with scores of 90 points.com. Napa. CA. Their kinship is built upon refinement and concentration. 96 Beringer 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon Private Reserve © 2016 Treasury Wine Estates. they have arrived Cabernet at the same pinnacle of Sauvignon prestige. Meet all the members of the 90+ Club at www.90pointclub. 94 Stags’ Leap Winery 2012 The Leap Cabernet Sauvignon Napa’s Finest Cabs These wines share much more than just a Napa Valley address. the 90+ Club. 2012 Through fascinating Georges histories and varied de Latour paths. | All ratings from The Wine Advocate .

They include Jennifer Bice. who grew up in Sonoma County. (1984). sales have tripled to an estimated 6 mil- Vermont Creamery uu suing decade to establish her namesake lion pounds of cheese. 30. Calif. (1983).. are still producing outstanding chèvres. chèvres that rival but spearheaded an entire back-to-the-fu. the veau—snails. who founded Goat cheese remained a Franco. in the late 1970s.S. bastopol. same year. in 1978. Chenel’s annual Redwood Hill Farm and Creamery uu Back home. N O W A S TA P L E F or its first two centuries. Calif. Since then. who gots. she worked hard over the en.S. G OA T O N C E R A R E . Goat Icons supermarkets and specialty shops. in the finest restaurants across the coun- Naturally. along came the Chevre in Arcata. 2016 • WINE SPECTATOR 51 .S.. frog legs and veal kidneys. Most of the other original goat ladies both Bice and Cypress Grove continue to BOTTOM: TIM CALABRO Goats gambol at the 30-year-old Vermont Creamery. when chef Alice Waters placed a and together Waters and Chenel helped 2010. Bice sold to Emmi in late 2015. the U. and in 1979 went to the family-owned. Most of it went to the res.” a handful of intrepid young lison Hooper of Vermont Creamery in women who not only made fine fresh goat Websterville. quality U.S. Mary Keehn of Cypress Grove Then. Keehn sold Cypress brand. group Rians. and Al- “goat ladies. and it has since nearly doubled sales standing order of 50 pounds a week for make American goat cheese part of the to almost 2 million pounds of cheese per Chez Panisse. and taurant’s iconic baked goat cheese salad. Her first breakthrough came in Grove to the Swiss company Emmi in 1981. In 2006. it all started in California: try. right up there with escar. year. nel. cuisses de grenouille and rognons de started Capriole in Greenville.’s first goat lady was Laura Che. their French models not only are served ture artisanal cheesemaking movement. California cuisine revolution. cheese a staple in kitchens across the land Today. Chenel sold her company to Westfield Farm Capri uu gan raising goats. be. Vt. Judy Schad. Ind. they blanket the cheese cases of top The U. knew very little about chèvre. artisan-oriented French Three Ring Farm Rivers Edge Chèvre uu France to learn proper chèvre-making. Four U. Redwood Hill Farm and Creamery in Se- phile curiosity. SEPT.

.

.

And that tartness likewise WINE MATCH In addition to the brands founded by provides a complement for citrus and veg. but we’re also for larger-scale quality production.. Eucalyptus Honey Gelée (recipe follows) be mild. $42). Remove from the Website www. Domaine Huët Vouvray Demi-Sec Clos the goat ladies. Add more water 4 sheets gelatin. Gently pour the gelée over the tart. First. white or white with a little residual sugar is better. globules make it more easily digestible “Goat cheese salad is nothing new. Squeeze excess water from the gelatin frigerator for at least 30 minutes. cold and cut into small to room temperature. parchment paper over the tart shell. The tart should use the majority of the from stuffing tomatoes. perhaps a chalky or claylike hint. fresh chèvres home on Sunday.sprucesf . 3. bloomed SPRUCE in cold water 3640 Sacramento St. wrap tightly at all goaty-smelling. With Eucalyptus slight chalky terroir. Allow dried tomatoes on pasta or including in to cool completely. 2 tablespoons eucalyptus honey ¾ tablespoon powdered gelatin. bloomed in cold water where between smooth.operate as independent divisions of that provide a really nice foil for juicy fruits dairy co-op giant. then fill to room temperature before pouring into tart ing a vast array of potential pairings— with pie weights or dried beans. Young. “Traveling to the Loire dismantled the cliché of brand from Westfield Farm. tangy tartness and Once chilled. coating textures and consistencies can TO MAKE THE 4. Serves 10. and whisk the gelatin into the goat Its distinct yet subtle flavors and textures 3. ming the edges and making sure there are no to conceive of a cheese more versatile as visible holes. 1. red wine and cheese. We’re a special restau. eminently approachable and not 2. even apricots. Form the dough into a round. Those thick.. Cut EUCALYPTUS HONEY GELÉE the tart into thin slices and serve with a green Mark salad garnished with fresh herbs and a light ½ cup red verjus Sullivan citrus vinaigrette. mixture depending on the thickness of your minutes. TO MAKE THE BLACK PEPPER CRUST San Francisco Telephone (415) 1 ¾ cups all-purpose flour In a small pot. Really about two-thirds Mass. and then add the butter. 2016 . Logsden. Somewhat paradoxically. Part of our WINE AND SPIRITS DIRECTOR/PARTNER than cow’s milk. mouth- to the top. there are several recom. Cool Wine Spectator Grand M cup butter. heat verjus over medium heat 931-5100 ½ teaspoon salt until it comes to a simmer. tossing with sun. tra-careful handling by cheesemakers— making it really good. It should is too dry. Hubbardston. for an elegant restaurant. and vegetables. lemony. as a neighborhood restaurant. Award cubes 54 WINE SPECTATOR • SEPT. Domaine de Vaufuget Vouvray 2014 (87. it would be hard until the cheese is melted.”—ANDREW GREEN. and chill for at least 1 hour. to melting shell and should leave 1⁄4 inch for the gelée. whisking frequently Other than Parmesan. Cool provide an inviting blank canvas suggest. Place a large piece of cheese mixture until completely melted. Bake for another 10 to 15 minutes or for a vegetable gratin. filling it your pound cake. Chill the tart for at least 2 hours. 1 teaspoon at a time as needed if the dough Black Pepper Crust (recipe follows) ing and mouthcoatingly dense. salt and pepper into a food These cheeses can be cured for up to 30 processor fitted with a blade. Quickly pulse days. Heat oven to 375° F. mushrooms. Calif. Don’t overthink it. until the tart is evenly golden-brown. 30. 10 to 15 times or until the dough has the con- 2 cups goat cheese Balance is perhaps the most important sistency of wet sand. In consistency. goat’s milk has sev- Honey Gelée to contrast with the fat in the cheese. etal acidity. Ore.com 1 teaspoon black pepper heat and whisk in the gelatin and honey. roll the dough out to 1⁄4-inch simmering water. Add water and pulse a 1 ¼ cups heavy cream criterion for tasting and judging a young few more times until the dough comes to- ½ teaspoon salt chèvre. weights. beyond that. gether and is no longer dry. Bake for 30 shell. sheets. Return the tart shell to the re- a recipe ingredient than a young chèvre. Rivers Edge Chèvre from Pat Mor- ford’s Three Ring Farm. trim- heavy cream and salt.. Chill on a flat surface for at least 1 hour. The acid in the wine helps from Petaluma. with sweet. then remove parchment and pie chicken breasts. 2. —MARK SULLIVAN 1. and fit into a 9-inch tart pan. and the sugar helps round out the astringency in the eral key distinctions. warm the goat cheese. Goat’s Milk Pavé of the time. moist and melt. but just taking a classic and Vouvray Demi-Sec Le Haut-Lieu 2015 (94. thickness. they cross over into the RECIPE to combine. You may have extra gelée. fresh in plastic wrap. Pulse aged category. In a large. its smaller fat cheese. whereas any hints of chalk or du Bourg 2014 mended American chèvres: the Capri clay can offer pleasant contrasts. it should fall some. heatproof bowl set over a pot of milky flavors. something new.” are packed and shipped within a week. $15) and more consistent—offering potential rant with great service and wine. Goat cheese picks up that and Andante Dairy’s Fresh Goat Cheese. philosophy is it’s not always about making WINE SPECTATOR ALTERNATES: Domaine Huët it’s both more fragile—necessitating ex. For cheesemaking. Put the flour. So I try to solve the conundrum of the goat cheese salad I make at 3 tablespoons ice water demonstrated by the Chenel and Cypress 2 ½ cups pie weights or dried beans Grove operations.

.

.

S. a pasteurized version of Brie de round of Brie (use the Brie in the WINE SPECTATOR ALTERNATES: St. I think of hay. dwarfing the 300 tons of its TO MAKE THE BARLEY CRUMBLE iconic compatriot Camembert. every year. 1. occasional Spread out the mixture on the baking sheet reddish-brown streaks or splotches appear “I made this two years ago. France exports 5. slow acidification. genuine AOC Bries are also very interesting.”—HELEN of the two AOC Bries. try 3 ounces white chocolate. Pacific Rim Riesling Yakima Valley Noble Brie Fermier. WINE MATCH layer of flavor but also texture—without the For Brie lovers in the U. The bad is that due to 2005. ground to a in 1980 and European PDOs in 1996. packed distinctly California approach: I wanted to Among these are the pasteurized versions 1 pint heavy cream take a classic and play with it. 8 to 10 minutes. I love this not available. combine 1/2 cup milk pow- der. stirring every 5 minutes.. The these—they’re as close to the real deal as milk is subject to long. a large co-op of small dairy farms in SEPT. Mec concept of French refinement with a ½ cup clean hay. TO MAKE THE HAY CREAM slightly savory dessert. also by hand. In France. Roast the hay on a is to the U. heat and let cool to room temperature. 1 tablespoon sugar Wine Selenium Vineyard 2012 (92. then return the mixture to the bowl and American concept. and the ’05 is an elegant. Strain the cream through a fine-mesh sieve the widest range of palates.. But it’s a little too much for this creamy. we can legally obtain in the U. Crème de Brie In a medium bowl.S. Cover But one need not have been raised by and refrigerate for 8 hours or overnight. Normandy. barley and salt.2-ounce Meaux. sugar. then remove from the country’s definitive culinary ambassadors. It’s simple. combine hay. 20 to 25 minutes. Preheat oven to 250° F. Pinch of kosher salt rounding Paris. apple and Brie is classic. to eight weeks. In and immensely popular concoc. BRIE THE PRIDE OF FRANCE B rie is to France what the hamburger 1. Both received their French AOCs Rouzaire uu 1 teaspoon pearled barley. aroma. the white molds that ripen the paste over five and Toasted Barley mixture should look and feel like damp sand.-Urbans-Hof cream below) Riesling Auslese Mosel Piesport Goldtröpfchen 2014 Nangis.”—LUDO LEFEBVRE “This spritzer is an anomaly. So. it makes sense. given the generic ¼ vanilla bean.S. They powder come from the Île-de-France region sur. into a container. a saucepan. Brie rind and sugar. flour. $40/375ml) Mère. 1 ounce cheese. divided Brie is a family of cheeses. there’s no texture. vanilla bean and seeds. The mildly acidic taste and cool. 1 ⁄4 ounce lemon juice) the FDA’s ban on raw-milk cheeses aged earth. but to put a French touch in sweet lactic flavors intensify. BEVERAGE DIRECTOR names Fromage de Melun and Fromage de Rind trimmed from K a 13. it’s been Amer. cream. and even the I added apple compote. Preheat oven to 325° F. melted to ensure its silky-smooth character. At peak ripeness. there’s good crumble. gently hand-ladled into molds using a per- forated. the original Ferme de Jouvence uu 5 tablespoons all-purpose flour and most famous of which is Brie de Meaux. Four Brie Icons ¾ cup nonfat dry milk powder. club soda. shovellike tool called a pelle à brie. the superior depth and complexity of raw. short of booking a flight to ¼ cup unsalted butter. with near-authentic results. The curds are sheet with a Silpat liner or parchment paper. 2016 • WINE SPECTATOR 57 . and the Brie from Isigny Ste.—a quintessential baking sheet until fragrant. cornstarch. ica’s go-to bloomy-rind import for decades. Cover and refrigerate until ready to serve. a class of farmstead Bries labeled (94. The process was to and bake.000 tons of it to the U. It gives grass and terroir. sophisticated delicacy accessible to 2. The good news is the French producer. The barley gives another occasional hint of garlic or black truffle.-Mère uu 1 ½ tablespoons cornstarch followed by its less-mild cousin Brie de Le Châtelain uu 2 tablespoons sugar Melun. so of nuts. adding notes with Brie. spritzer (2 ounces wine. When I think of Erben von Beulwitz Riesling Auslese news and bad news. $60). and the paste becomes unctu. until on the rind. and dry-salted. but it’s less than 60 days. golden and fragrant. Isigny Ste. Bring to a sim- tion recognized the world over as among its mer over medium heat. Francophiles to feel nostalgia for Brie: A subtle. Think of the Trois milk cheeses. The edible rind is covered in velvety With Apple Butter Add the butter and stir with a fork or your fingertips to thoroughly incorporate. mushroom and hay. Line a baking coagulation and draining. Let work on cheesecake—not classic New York or ously delicious. beautiful have met the challenge of approximating wine. melted All the steps in making Brie are designed Paris to smuggle home some AOC Brie.S. split and seeds scraped JOHANNESEN. 30.

at least 4 hours. egg. stirring frequently at first and constantly to- ture. beat the Brie until as smooth as possible—some lumps are fine. 30. Put apples in a large nonreactive pot with Put the hay cream in a siphon and charge it Lefebvre 2 cups water. Transfer the crumble to a food processor and pulse to grind. 1 small tonka bean. Place in a covered con- tainer and return to the freezer until ready to serve. 2016 . Spread out on the Silpat and freeze until very hard. Remove the cinnamon. lined pan (mixture will be about 1/2-inch deep) and refrigerate until ready to serve. if desired. about 30 minutes. then increase the speed to medium-high and beat until light and voluminous. the mixture should resemble damp sand. gradually add the sugar. and mediately. 1 teaspoon cider vinegar TO SERVE frigerator to chill completely. and mix on medium-low speed until maining in the sieve. 2. taking care not to burn the mix- incorporated. at least 4 hours. once. puree the mixture until very smooth. Serves 6. split and scraped 1 ½ lemons 4. Serve im- the vinegar. peels left on cool for a few minutes. In an immersion come up to the level of the batter. and. pipe the cheesecake per directly on the apples. 3. Transfer the cheesecake ward the end. at room temperature 4 ounces cream cheese.com 2. again. Set a round of parchment pa. Add the milk mixture to the cheese mix- through with a spatula. In a stand mixer fitted with the paddle at- tachment. Top with a tablespoon 716 Highland Ave. darker-colored paste. 15 to 20 minutes. if using. Pass apples through a food mill fitted to the barley crumble. stir the cornstarch and salt into the milk until dissolved. of the cheesecake is set in the center. For each serving. until it is reduced by half and is a thick. 58 WINE SPECTATOR • SEPT. 2. On low speed. rind trimmed off. TO MAKE THE BRIE CHEESECAKE Half a 13. Scrape the cheesecake into a fine-mesh 1 sprig fresh thyme 1 cinnamon stick Ludo 1. Scrape mixture into the plastic- mixture to a pastry bag fitted with a plain tip ture. Remove the smaller pan to a rack to 2 pounds apples. discard any lumps re. tonka bean and cinnamon. both pans to the oven and bake until the top TO MAKE THE APPLE BUTTER Set aside to cool to room temperature. at room temperature ¾ cup sugar 2 teaspoons cornstarch Pinch of kosher salt 2 tablespoons milk 1 large egg 1. Transfer blender.2-ounce round of Brie. about 5 minutes. then beat in the sieve set over a bowl and push the mixture cook over medium heat for about 20 minutes. about 3 minutes. Sprinkle with thyme leaves Troic Mec does not smallest holes into a 2-quart saucepan. each of the apple butter and the hay cream. Add the cream cheese and beat on medium-high until the mixture has doubled in volume and is light and creamy. starting at the center and TROIS MEC cook until apples are very soft and most of working outward. Preheat oven to 325° F. then transfer to the re. quartered. wood sorrel leaves. Add accept phone calls.. Bring to a boil and into a 4-inch circle. Set inside a larger pan. Los Angeles the water has evaporated. finely grated. and pour very hot water into the larger pan to and the vanilla bean. or ½ vanilla bean.stir in the remaining 1⁄4 cup milk powder and the white chocolate. In a small bowl. PORTRAIT: LIONEL DELUY Website www. Spray an 8-inch square pan with cooking spray and line with plastic wrap.troismec Sprinkle with the zest of 1⁄4 lemon and 1⁄4 cup .

.

.

ably subtle. the rec- ipe devolved to local farm wives. to wash the ripening cheeses. meaty taste. (The bulging 8-ounce As its odor dissipates.S. aroma—or maybe because of it— Rodolphe Le Meunier and Hervé Mons. is still immediately recognizable. a It can be tricky—some would say super- The first key to developing Époisses’ farming couple from the town of Époisses. which is brandy distilled from the tifact. “Cheese is milk’s leap toward immortal. acidification and coagulation of the revived traditional production. In the mid. transforming the milk components into delicious flavor- giving compounds. you wonder how wooden boxes with the Époisses label. Four Époisses Icons as committed connoisseurs. beautiful orange-tinted colonies of microorganisms—mostly Bre- vibacterium linens. Fromagerie Berthaut. multi- unctuous consistency is long. refrigerated. S U B L I M E S T I N K E R I n spite of its infamously funky Germain. it can be off-putting. leisurely about 70 miles northwest of the abbey. who con- tinued to make it into the 20th century. An Époisses type was originally made in the early 16th century. make a beeline. Once formed. melt to a custardlike consistency. Leave it as in fine food—Gevrey-Chambertin is one. before serving. highly labor-intensive ar. Two top cheesemonger-affineurs. aroma. it. south of Dijon. it was all but dead and gone ing it to come to room temperature and winemaking by-product pomace. The wash starts out as brine that is progressively laced with marc until it’s almost 100 percent the latter. True. is used by the end of World War II. 30. along with certain yeasts—grow on the cheese’s rind. As a handmade. Several Germain uu dubbed it the King of Cheeses. fully integrated and milk (16 to 24 hours). brand most seen in the U.. mellow flavors. home of the Cistercian order. working that miracle of funky fermentation. however. of the communities in its AOC produc- Rodolphe Le Meunier uu An Époisses’ rind should be moist and tion zone are well-known in wine as well Hervé Mons uu shiny but not saturated or slimy. ÉPOISSES A S W E E T. damp con. so add aesthetic ap. It’s also a persistent barnyard—but not rotten— great-looking cheese. Their fam. four to eight weeks under cool. When they BOTTOM: JON WYAND abandoned the site 200 years later. an Époisses’ paste disc of cheese inside is wrapped in a per- softens to a sensuous. until about an hour in to the wine industry: marc de Bour. Considered the cheeses are washed three times a week for Époisses’ dominant manufacturer and the beefsteak of cheeses for its big. 2016 • WINE SPECTATOR 61 .” Right off the bat. Dijon another. at the Abbaye de Citeaux. Its recipe is also tied in its box. by monks who ate it as a main course on meatless nights. the ily business. Époisses is washed in marc at Gaugry in Brochon. And we are it is made from cow’s milk and hails from not alone: None other than the great gas- Fromagerie Berthaut uu tronome Jean Anthelme Brillat-Savarin the Côte d’Or region of Burgundy. and take a whiff.) A ripe Époisses should have a strong. I anything this smelly could taste so good. but fans peal to its many alluring traits. Époisses’ is unique. Époisses is the type that perhaps best select and brand cheeses under their own epitomizes Clifton Fadiman’s famous quip: names for export as well. These lovely little fauna ripen an Époisses from the outside in. silky smoothness meable plastic wrapper so you can smell and delivers a complex array of remark. SEPT. Whenever I spot one of those neat little ity. allow- gogne. 1950s. along with its flavors range from bacon and eggs to ditions. fluous—to break down a complex. Plate it separately. will contend it’s what distinguishes them Officially called Époisses de Bourgogne. carefully lift off its top It’s a veritable gastronomic miracle. faceted profile into individual components. Robert and Simone Berthaut. Given proper affinage.

about 5 minutes.rich. The local wine on each slice of bread and set on a sheet pan.-Aubin Les Combes 2014 (91. St. WINE SPECTATOR ALTERNATES: Philippe Colin gooey. It’s ooey and and pickled shallots onto each piece of toast. until onions are deep golden-brown. sliced into rings Combine vinegar. This is essentially burnt on top. Place 1⁄6 of the Époisses increase when we sell one. $63). Serves 6. This [preparation] is more approachable. But keeping the integrity of the Époisses and sprinkle with the watercress.” very rooted in French cuisine. RECIPE ity to moist earth and notes of mushrooms 1 wheel Époisses WINE MATCH and nuts. TO MAKE THE That plus a great loaf of sourdough make it a FRENCH ONION MARMALADE 2 medium yellow onions. In Burgundy it’s served Époisses Toast 1 bunch watercress raw. Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey St. 2.. LEAD SOMMELIER an open-faced grilled cheese. Add the onions and stir to coat. San Francisco Telephone (415) 543-7474 Website www. scraping up browned bits and incorporating them into the onions.com Wine Spectator Grand Award . and food there have developed together over “We cook things that we want to eat but that are Broil until the cheese is melted and slightly so long that there’s a lineage to the match. for about 45 minutes. com- bine 1 cup caramelized onions with all other ingredients and cook. from buttery lactic acid. sugar and salt with 1 cup water in a saucepan and bring to a boil.”—MICHAEL RAFIDI lengthwise and thinly sliced 2 tablespoons unsalted butter ½ cup red wine ¼ cup red wine vinegar ¼ cup sugar 1 teaspoon soy sauce 1 teaspoon salt 1 teaspoon fresh thyme leaves Cracked black pepper 1. halved little more composed. Let sit overnight at room temperature to pickle. TO PICKLE THE SHALLOTS 1 cup red wine vinegar 1 cup sugar 1 teaspoon salt 1 cup shallots. then cool and pour over shallots. stirring occasionally. Melt the butter in a skillet over medium-low heat. stirring often. Add 1⁄4 cup water and stir.rn74. and it’s balanced with acidity Bourgogne White 2014 (87. until liq- uid is reduced and syrupy. Louis Jadot is very important. Spoon some onion marmalade —DAVID CASTLEBERRY. It’s so aromatic that sales Gratinée Preheat the broiler. In a small pot set over medium heat. Michael Rafidi RN74 301 Mission St. $18) from the shallot and sweet and tangy onion jam. sweet cream. Aubin 6 slices country bâtard French Onion Marmalade (recipe follows) En Remilly 2011 Pickled Shallots (recipe follows) “Époisses is strong. Cook.

.

Isaac Naturally. a small family pro- BOTTOM: COURTESY OF FOREVER CHEESE ducer that continues to turn out bench- mark artisanal cheeses.000 tons of Manchego were on the lees. which (4. and also a small casein more short-chain fatty acids. its smaller fat globules La Mancha is an arid plateau. It took me two weeks to figure out which was my favorite.S.” she recalls. The salty character of the wine produced in 2015. “I’ll never forget cutting into that first wheel and being stopped dead in my tracks at how buttery it was. Goriska Brda Selekcija 2013 (91. co-founder of the importer Manchego means “from La Mancha. Buster’s next Manchego epiphany came in 1996. The local label on its top side. “Which are the (plaited raw esparto grass). any food of such tremendous Fernandez Selección Verdejo Rueda Egeo 2014 popularity is subject to a certain amount (86. with rela. JALEO RESTAURANTS chego” has become the “I’ll have a glass of WINE SPECTATOR ALTERNATES: Simcic Ribolla Chardonnay” of cheese. and indeed cil’s small logo label featuring the cheese’s with goat’s milk. brand. Idi- azábal. down into the aroma. averaging serial number and an image of Don Quix- render it more easily digestible and consis.” Around the same time. spicy. Al-mansha means the so-called rope-tied pattern from the sity of Valencia in the early 1980s when she first encountered a plethora of market cheeses labeled Manchego: “I tasted my way through every possible permutation and combination. It also contains tively harsh seasonal conditions.”—JORDI uitous French Brie. 30. The pattern on Manchego rind is a nod to the days when the cheese was imprinted with a braided-grass mold. It’s been re- Essex Cheese Manchego 1605 uu standard-bearers?” placed by nonreactive plastic. “What’s so great traditional draining molds made of pleita El Trigal uu about Manchego?” and. riety of plants and grasses. Manchego was defined and protected by a Denominación de Origen that set it apart from the other regional Spanish sheep’s milk giants. “I want a piece of Man. So the cogent Dehesa de Los Llanos uu questions quickly become.. nearly 2. when she discovered the El Trigal brand from Corcuera. with identified by the official regulatory coun- more fat and protein than cow’s milk. M A NC H E G O SHEEP’S MILK COLOSSUS T here was a time not so long ago when the mere mention of sheep’s WINE MATCH milk would have crinkled the nose Raventos I Blanc Xarel-lo Penedès of most cheese-eating Americans. in 1984. Buster was studying at the Univer- was originally Moorish. but the pat- Parra La Oveja Negra uu It turns out sheep’s milk offers decided tern remains. which break Manchega is among the cheese-friendliest plaque stamped into its bottom. putting it nearly on par with the ubiq. it charming reminder of its rustic origins.000 feet above sea level. piquant notes. $13) Four Manchego Icons of crass commercialization. of the highest pedigree largely thanks to peppery. Michele Buster. Americans can now enjoy Manchegos compounds that deliver those signature grazing outdoors year-round on a wide va. As “land without water” in Arabic. planted in calcareous soil.” The rind of a Manchego exhibits a Forever Cheese and creator of the Mitica and like so many Spanish place-names.and flavor-giving of sheep breeds—hardy and suited to free. spice aromas such as fennel. 2016 . Great Manchego all starts and ends with 64 WINE SPECTATOR • SEPT. Roncal and Zamorano. PARONELLA. $30). Authentic Manchego is advantages: It’s thicker and richer. almost 30 percent of will match perfectly with Manchego cheese. ote on horseback. Now it’s Silencis 2015 a frequently enjoyed pleasure and a category “This is made from 50-year-old Xarel-lo defined by genuine Spanish Manchego. SOMMELIER. stickered onto the brand tent for cheesemaking. unoaked and aged About 16.730 tons) was exported to the And the personality of the Xarel-lo gives U.

6 2 3 -26 42 ) V i s i t O ce a n i a C r u i s e s .co m / W S o r C o n t a c t Yo u r Tr ave l A g e n t S AVO R T H E WO R L D w i t h T H E F I N E S T CU I S I N E AT S E A ™ .O CE A N I A ( 8 5 5 . N ove m b e r 16 . MS R i v ie r a sun r ise at sea w in e m a ke r ’s t a s tin g h a n dm a d e p as t a at Tos c a n a af te r-din n e r o p e r a C a l l 8 5 5 .Tuscany -It a ly. 2016 .

10-12 days receive 8 free shore excursions. SAN. THE Life TM DIFFERENCE n The Finest Cuisine at Sea™ n A variety of distinctive open-seating Upgrade your experience restaurants. fees.999 per person* Cruise-Only Fares from $ 3. OLife Choice. EWR. valid for residents of United States and Canada. based on double occupancy and subject to change. YVR.com.499 per person* Enjoy exquisite food and recommended Cruise-Only Fares from $ 3.Shipboard Credit n Award-winning itineraries featuring The Summer Sales Event ends September 30. Not all promotions are combinable. Oceania Cruises reserves the right to correct errors or omissions and to change any and all fares. 2017 – MARINA Featuring overnights in Fuerte Amador and visits to Valparaiso. Florence/Pisa/Tuscany.250 guests OLife Choice Fares from $ 2. LGA. 14+ days receive 10 free shore excursions. ORD.S. OLife Choice amenities. AUG1628 . Airfare is available from all other U. along with additional terms. All fares are per person in U. Bridgetown.Beverage Package in the world’s most fascinating destinations FREE . for new bookings only and may be withdrawn at any time. SEA.399 per person* CALL 855-OCEANIA (855-623-2642) VISIT OCEANIACRUISES. Airline-imposed personal charges such as baggage fees may apply. and Canadian gateways for an additional charge. YYZ. If shore excursion amenity is selected. OLife Choice and OLife Ultimate amenities are per stateroom. MCO. Costa Maya and Miami Machu Picchu OLife Ultimate Fares from $ 4. Lima/Machu Picchu. Monte Carlo.Shore Excursions FREE . Roatan. Rome. BOS. based on double occupancy (unless otherwise noted). TPA. which may be viewed. Coquimbo. 2016 – RIVIERA Featuring overnights in Venice and Barcelona and visits to Zadar.349 n Spectacular port-intensive voyages featuring overnight visits and extended $ 99 Premium Economy Air Upgrade Available* Riviera Romance evening port stays VENICE to BARCELONA | 12 days November 9. Oceania Cruises reserves the right to assign gateways based on availability for JFK. Oceania Exclusive and Executive Collection. on select voyages from select gateways. Ships’ Registry: Marshall Islands. DCA. Fort-de-France. promotions and surcharges at any time. George’s. open to all categories and based on availability. LGA and MIA. Puerto Limon. DFW. all at no additional charge with limited-time inclusive packages n Gourmet cuisine curated by world-renowned Airfare* & Unlimited Internet Master Chef Jacques Pépin plus Choose 1 amenity with OLife Choice n Epicurean enrichment programs. OLife Choice and OLife Ultimate Free Internet amenity is one per stateroom.COM / WS OR CONTAC T YOUR TR AVEL AGENT S AVO R T H E W O R L D w i t h T H E F I N E S T CU I S I N E AT S E A ™ *Offers and fares are subject to change on 10/1/16. Cruise-Only Fares do not include government fees & taxes. LAX. each way.com for current pricing. Owner’s. 2016 – RIVIERA | Holiday Voyage Featuring visits to Miami. OLife Ultimate amenities or Airfare. JFK. HNL. “Airfare” promotion does not include ground transfers and applies to coach. Gateways are subject to change at any time. Guests in the same stateroom must choose the same OLife Choice amenity and amenity must be chosen by final payment.com. For details. PHL. Palermo. Nassau. at OceaniaCruises. dollars. MIA. OLife Choice and OLife Ultimate free shore excursions vary by voyage and exclude Oceania Choice. 2 for 1. OLife Ultimate and Cruise-Only Fares are based on published Full Brochure Fares.699 per person* wine pairings in La Reserve by Wine Spectator Bridgetown on board the stunning Marina and Riviera Incas & The Andes VALPARAISO to MIAMI | 17 days January 5. Castries and Philipsburg OLife Choice Fares from $ 4. PHX. YOW. DTW. CLT. Any advertised fares that include the “Airfare” promotion include all airline fees. Visit OceaniaCruises. luxurious ships catering Kotor. SFO. surcharges and government taxes. $99 Air Upgrade is a Premium Economy Air Upgrade only available when air is purchased through Oceania Cruises.349 per person* n Exceptional personalized service n Country club casual ambiance Sunny Celebrations n Acclaimed Canyon Ranch SpaClub® MIAMI to MIAMI | 12 days December 22. OLife Choice and OLife Ultimate beverage package amenity is House Select. Provence and Port-Vendres to just 684 or 1. n Intimate. including or get all 3 with OLife Ultimate: immersive Culinary Discovery Tours™ FREE . Vista & Oceania Suites receive access for two devices per suite. all excursions must be chosen at least 14 days prior to sailing. SAV. IAH.S. visit exploreflightfees. Arica. such fares may not have resulted in actual sales in all suite and stateroom categories and do not include optional charges as detailed in the Guest Ticket Contract. It applies to intercontinental flights only and is priced per person. 2016 over 365 alluring destinations SAVINGS of up to 79% | CRUISE-ONLY FARES from $1. John’s. Salaverry.499 per person* Venice Cruise-Only Fares from $1. Not all amenities will be available on all carriers. roundtrip flights only from the following airports: ATL. MDW. unless otherwise indicated. DEN. Voyages up to 9 days receive 6 free shore excursions. YUL. Panama Canal Daylight Transit. Manta. IAD. St. St.

tang along with creamy richness and cut into batons 1 fennel bulb. mushroomy and fruity notes along RECIPE in between that invites fascination. such to eight months). Season with salt to Washington.”—JOSÉ ANDRÉS served fennel fronds. 1 tablespoon Sherry vinegar. of Excellence handmade from an ancient recipe—nutty. At 12 months and Andrés Reserva semicurado (two to six months). cored and At three to six months old. Only those made grateable. peeled. the smooth. of the ingredients and season to taste with Wine Spectator Award chego cheese is made from raw sheep’s milk. sified. such as José sold under several different age gradations: plement the butter.C. and all the flavors have inten. It’s amazing! Our Man. with a Garnish with chopped chives and the re- tangy. it’s where the cheese goes earthy. Walnuts 8 walnuts. making it as José Andrés Arbequina and añejo (12 months). It is with more acidity and piquancy to com. “I love this salad—it’s a Jaleo classic. 1 Granny Smith apple.that butteriness. there are emerging Sliced Apple and reserved and very thinly sliced Fennel Salad With ½ tablespoon chopped chives. whisk together the Sherry 480 Seventh St. plus more for garnish José Andrés Manchego.com texture to the salad. D.jaleo. Throughout this remarkable evolu. lingering flavor. the cheese never loses its superior cut into ½-inch cubes Manchegos exhibit an addictive lactic balance and complexity. Telephone (202) 628-7949 chego cheese in this dish brings a fatty. In a small bowl. In a large serving bowl. SEPT. Moving beyond six months. Kosher salt from raw milk may be labeled artesano. combine the rest Website www. soft. thinly sliced. The Man. viejo (nine to 11 months) has significantly dried out. Serves 4. shelled and chopped JALEO and Sherry Dressing 1. taste and set aside. N. meaty 2. the finest tion. vinegar and olive oil. salt. 30. with fronds salt—all in delectable balance. curado (six beyond. 2016 • WINE SPECTATOR 65 .W. 6 ounces 8-to-12-month-aged Manchego. pliant texture 3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil. Add the Sherry dressing and toss well.

.

a care- nificent behemoth that is France in the fully selected. size of Connecticut and Massachusetts put If a genuine AOP Emmentaler is the together runs a close second to the mag.” Challerhocker and Der Scharfe Maxx the meat. Such is the case with the benchmark. citrus combo—and Nufenen. all of these alpine but they stay long enough to milk those advent of modern transportation. which operates as a federation fruity up front. new and old. smoky and musty- Gruyère 1655 uu standing mountain cheeses is compre. Hoch Ybrig and so forth.” Paternina Rioja Banda Azul Crianza 2013 (89. before the As recipe ingredients. Each component is important. The union was a financial boon but should be marinated in adobo and sour orange. at times and toasted bread. a throwback many flattering imitators the world over. 2016 • WINE SPECTATOR 67 . that tency and satiny texture.” and the side. Both could be char. The acids cancel Among the traditional alpine types. “A Cuban Sandwich is the one dish I crave the land’s cheesemakers. but those two come as a surprise that a small. $13). The former is bright and Switzerland. baseline for all Swiss alpine types. are great options. Look for a bread made with lard—you —CASEY LITTLEFIELD. ruled by the Swiss most. and the medium body style methods wowed the cheese world: sive dill pickle chips can’t be beat. ingly and leaning more toward the fruity companied by their domesticated animals. With a smooth consis- disparate provinces. Yet they remained distinct expres- sions of their terroir and were named for Cubano feast on a rich diet of alpine fodder. 30. called cantons. ham must be good-quality. it’s a little springy have consistently turned out an astound. which is the traditional Cuban method. The Ontañon has the sweet spice and acidity to Excellent new cheeses made with old. offering Gru- Challerhocker uu hending the concept of an alp: It is any yère-like earthiness and meatiness. offering notes of caramel of independent and. Sandwich suring that their milk is the best possible Toggenburger. as in a particular patch of isolated. Cheeses would be up wonderfully to the heat of cooking. well-aged AOP Gruyère is world of fine cheeses. elasticity. when it collapsed in 1999. end of the Swiss spectrum. powerful up front but building convinc- Nufenen uu usually in the summer. The operative other small communities tended to remain They’re built to melt (after all. Four Swiss Icons Gruyère made as it was 100 years ago—an Key to understanding Switzerland’s out. The color and brininess of inexpen- stand up to the pork. is that it produces more of the profile. even identical whereby. on the palate but nonetheless toothsome ing breadth and variety of cheeses. can taste the difference. Murray’s and Gruyère 1655. along with delightfully crunchy finest mountain cheeses than any other na. starting with Emmentaler and Gruyère— A couple of other highly recommended head that list. must be patted dry to ensure that they stick to each other out. BEVERAGE MANAGER emerged as superstars. given Switzerland’s beefy and nutty notes to the classic alpine geography. Down through the centuries. And ditions and customs. to use Jarlsberg Swiss cheese because it's “This is a strange dish for pairing. fondue is word is place. They may not settle there permanently. They developed independent tra. The pickles won’t overpower the food. Recommended labels include Rolf tion. great when melted and has the right kind of key because of the mustard and pickle. You have the Swiss were once again free to invent. raw material for cheesemaking. eye-opener with its salty. SWISS ALPINE RULES T o the casual observer it might Hoch Ybrig’s many charms. made according to similar. Bodegas Federico they knocked the Hoch Ybrig off more yellow mustard’—never a Dijon. I prefer the mustard on acterized as “breakaway Appenzellers. the national dish) and their flavors hold terrain or a specific microclimate. Acidity is which they did in all categories. their places of origin—Appenzeller. not as Der Scharfe Maxx uu place in the mountains where people go. and melting. Ontañón Ecologica Rioja 2013 a creative bust. alps and cheeses. The Gruyères add earthy. (relatively) new kids on the block were just landlocked nation roughly the that good. Switzer. given the SEPT. and it’s best when it’s that ‘ballpark WINE SPECTATOR ALTERNATES: Cune Rioja Crianza 2012 (91. The roast pork WINE MATCH able. were stodgy and predict. —DOUGLAS RODRIGUEZ This was quite remarkable. animals and make cheese. $15) than a few shelves in fine cheese shops. the smoked Cheese Union. en. The large-format Swiss alpine types— Beeler. the operative principle is transhumance. For most of the 20th century. What’s no surprise. cows are ushered up to high pastures to recipes. historically. and they are the models for Swiss alpine types are L’Etivaz. almost always ac. once the snows have melted. crystals.

Telephone (215) 988-1799 2. Place slightly cooled pork in the refrigera- 6 tablespoons salted butter. then press the add 4 cups water to create a puree. 1 pound thinly sliced Jarlsberg cheese then re-cover it.. 30. If using a sauce.com 4 minutes. or place a second 2. Remove from the (recipe follows) ½ cup distilled white vinegar oven and let cool slightly. at least 4 hours. decubarestaurant. 68 WINE SPECTATOR • SEPT. cut each sandwich in half cut into four 6-inch sections and serve with ballpark mustard. peeled Slice thinly. Grill each sandwich for 3 to processor or blender. inset with a heavy can. RECIPE sandwich with a spatula. along with the marinade. Philadelphia excess fat wich and brush with melted butter. Ballpark mustard 8 cloves garlic. us- 1 pound thinly sliced Black Forest smoked ing aluminum foil. Evenly lay 1⁄4 of 1 tablespoon pepper ALMA DE CUBA the ham followed by 1⁄4 of the pork on 1 side. gradually pan. Transfer to the oven and TO MAKE THE ROAST PORK BUTT ham cook until the pork is very tender and almost 1 pound thinly sliced Roast Pork Butt ½ cup chopped white onion falling apart. ning (if using a food processor). pressing firmly. on top of the nonreactive pan and pour the marinade over. Makes 4. Preheat oven to 300° F. Evenly 1 tablespoon cumin seeds arrange 1⁄8 of the Jarlsberg on each slice of 2 tablespoons salt Douglas bread. Sliced dill pickles. Carefully combine the 2 sides of each sand. hoagie-style bread). Once cooked. 1 loaf 24-inch-long Cuban bread made sandwich to weight it down. then spread 4 to 5 pickle slices evenly Zest of 2 oranges Rodriguez on 1 side of each sandwich. 3. Uncover the pork. 3 bay leaves 1. first brush with butter. patted dry ¼ cup chopped fresh cilantro leaves 4. Cover and refrigerate for 12 hours or over- with lard (or French baguette or night. Heat a sandwich press or a saucepan to 1. Arrange the bread slices cut side up. about 3 hours. Cuban old-style. melted 1 tablespoon dried oregano tor and let cool completely. turning occasionally. With the motor run. split in half and 3. 2016 .alma medium (275 ° F). 5 pounds boneless pork butt trimmed of 1623 Walnut St. Place all ingredients except pork in a food Website www. Place the pork in a large ovenproof dish or pan.

.

lush but not overwhelming. 2016 . slow aging. almost exclusively under the name block Cheddars highly suitable for recipes. face of your Monday morning toast. European settlers started bringing their Just a notch below the limited-edition cheesemaking skills to North America— Four Cheddar Icons clothbounds. minced Dairy and Quicke’s also offer outstanding 70 WINE SPECTATOR • SEPT. Can you imagine America to the cheese’s characteristic dense. nutty. like they cancel each other out. Comfort food is rich. the top clothbounds RECIPE alcohol cuts the richness. Barber’s comes from the firm that cheese factory. The melized butt end of your Sunday evening téed broccolini. in goat’s milk exceptions. during fact: It’s the only cheese name that also de. where—a wide swath of lovely green hills. minerally. and Cornwall. minced Montgomerys and the Keens. tangy and citrusy. relatively new Midwestern superstars. if you want to cook like a chef. sell a lot of this dish.” richness and bacon fat soften the tannins so roast as easily as they do the buttered sur. about 150 miles due west of London. it’s rather “cheddaring. founded in Rome. Other Cheddar originated about 900 years ago top Vermonters are Grafton Village Cheese in some of the finest cheese terroir any. stacked and restacked. it bounced back at the end of the 20th century with the Cheddar’s famous bite. 30. with a few notable This “bandage” facilitates optimum air ex. the most despite its status as England’s consistently excellent Vermont cloth- most venerated cheese. fruity. and Long before the notion of protected two old West Coast standbys. (As historical facts go. Barber’s Farmhouse Cheese- for Cheddar. Sharp Cheddar Fine Cheddars are almost always made ing the cheese’s mid-19th century heyday. astounding. brothy vor and depth. People order this and sau- the dish.” come from the two original Somerset fami- —KATHRYN GAFVERT.-based boom saw millions of pounds the curds have solidified. crumbly shipping Camembert to France?) By the yet melting texture. Country Farmhouse Cheddar PDO. But anything perfect is tough. Among the so-called new-age Ched- dales and farmland encompassing the his. Cheddar in cheesecloth likely began dur. things out there. along with their English Quicke’s uu and processing were originally developed equivalent. it also leads to Bacon Béchamel but died out. Its epicenter is the village horseradish-y British ones—there are two of Cheddar and its picturesque gorge. Among the Americans. made Cheddar. and indeed. Somerset. On the English side. or sharpness. gamy. from raw cow’s milk. LEAD SOMMELIER ¼ cup bacon fat lies that stubbornly upheld Cheddar tradi- WINE SPECTATOR ALTERNATES: Markham Merlot tions throughout the leanest years: the ¼ cup all-purpose flour Napa Valley 2013 (91. dars—with sweeter. The bacon fat enhances it. —RYAN LORY you get pure fruit components in the wine. Devon flavors in contrast to the more savory.” this step contributes mightily free with a grand old English name. We bold. the the latter half of the 19th century. a great local product. aged by the Cellars at Jasper Hill. Beecher’s Handmade Cheese uu of Cheddar. $19) 2 cloves garlic.. as part of a highly 1960s. The best Ched.S. Fortunately. with meaty. and Shelburne Farms. They evoke the cara. musty. The practice of wrapping a large drum of Mac & Cheese With revival of traditional farmhouse cheeses. WINE MATCH dars deliver a majestic umami-laden depth For this.Y. use an and complexity of flavors. in a good way. It adds fla- “I wanted to pair it with something not too grassy. old-style Cheddar-making had all controlled acidification. “Simple things done correctly are the best change for long. the scribes an important step in its recipe. The Midwesterners Widmer’s Cheese Cel- Fiscalini Cheese Company uu Mass-market techniques such as the lars and Prairie Breeze from Milton Cream- Milton Creamery Prairie Breeze uu manufacture of large rindless block cheeses ery top the list. richer “American” toric counties of Dorset. We use an upstate New York Twomey Merlot Napa Valley 2012 sweet. Kendall-Jackson Merlot 1 shallot. Another Cheddar maintains the heirloom cultures for West 1851. N. and Beecher’s. Westcombe Sonoma County Vintner’s Reserve 2013 (89. Once designated subcategory that was finally U. they are cut into protected after centuries of the world’s of American-made Cheddar exported to large slabs. a balance of aged local Cheddar. Higher alcohol helps too. there’s a class of very fine at first. but with enough fruit for the richness of hints and much more. Fiscalini place-names had crossed anyone’s mind. And. Called cheesemakers playing footloose and fancy- England. The world’s first modern makers. Bleu Mont Dairy and Flory’s Truckle. C H E D DA R A CLASSIC REBORN T he great irony of Cheddar is that examples. its name bound is made by Cabot and selected and was never protected. aged Cheddar. $25).

The béchamel STEAK should be nice and thick. saucepan over medium heat. Serves 6. Add salt. Pour into an oven-safe palmer. 559-8440 1 pound macaroni Cook macaroni to your liking.com/charlie -palmer-steak-ny casserole dish and top with the bread- Wine Spectator Best of crumbs. 5 E. Whisk in flour SEPT. Add white wine and Ryan Lory ¼ cup grated white New York Cheddar reduce almost completely. 2016 • WINE SPECTATOR 71 .charlie ½ cup panko breadcrumbs with the béchamel. Preheat oven to 350° F. 30. 54th St. Heat bacon fat in a minutes. New York ¼ cup grated Parmigiano-Reggiano Telephone (646) Salt to taste 2. Add shallot and garlic. Bake until golden-brown. drain and mix Website www.. and bring to a simmer. about 45 Award of Excellence 1. and 1 quart milk cook until translucent. Bring a pot of water to a boil. then add milk and CHARLIE PALMER ¼ cup grated yellow New York Cheddar cheese.¼ cup white wine to create a roux.

.

GOUDA
S T U R DY, D U T C H , B U I LT T O L A S T

T
he history of Holland and its most Those sweetish flavors morph into deep,
famous cheese, Gouda, are so in- candylike butterscotch and caramel notes
extricably linked that it’s virtually with hints of whiskey; the milky ones yield
impossible to discuss one without mention- to nutty, chocolaty, meaty, tangy and her-
ing the other. baceous flavors.
The town of Gouda, in the southern part The choice subcategory of Gouda is Boe-
of the Netherlands, about 20 miles east of renkaas (“farmstead cheese”), which is
the Hague, has been home to one of the made from raw milk by smaller farm pro-
largest cheese markets in Europe for nearly ducers and co-ops. At the pinnacle are the
1,000 years. Large-format hard cheeses simi- 4-year-old Boerenkaases from the Bonnema
lar to modern Goudas have been made, State label, the Beemster brand’s Classic
bought and sold in the area, helping to drive and XO (18 and 26 months old, respec-
the Dutch economy, for at least that long. Four Gouda Icons tively) and the 2-year-old Stompetoren
Gouda emerged as a major food com- Grand Cru, made by Cono Kaasmakers, a
Beemster
uu
modity in the 17th century, when Hol- 500-farm co-op in the north of Holland.
Bonnema State
uu
land had its strongest influence on world Cono is also the source of another top-of-
Cono Kaasmakers L’Amuse Signature
uu
trade. It’s a national treasure and priceless the-line Gouda, the L’Amuse Signature,
Cono Kaasmakers Stompetoren
uu
place-name, which, curiously, was never which is selected by Betty Koster and aged
Grand Cru
protected, leading to widespread exploi- at her cheese shop in Santpoort-Noord,
tation. In another parallel to English not far from Amsterdam. Koster carefully
Cheddar (and its West Country Farm- their cheeses more durable for long-dis- ages her selections over a period of at least
house PDO), a smaller, traditional Gouda tance shipping, enabling them to become two years, with the goal of developing fully
appellation, Noord Hollandse Gouda, was important instruments of international ex- rounded, deep flavor profiles.
finally protected, receiving its European pansion. For starters, they scalded the curds The finest Goudas, aged in the five-year
PDO in 1996. and stirred them into hot water before range, typically become too hard and dense
Like their fellow Dutch explorers, colo- draining the whey. This helped produce a for successful melting. Luckily, there’s an-
nizers and spice traders, though they came drier and less acidic (i.e., sweeter) cheese. other excellent subcategory a notch below,
from a small nation, the Gouda makers These were cheeses built to last: They were punctuated by the so-called “Goudas with
were industry leaders with far-reaching formed in large wooden molds and pressed an Italian accent,” meaning that they’re
power and influence. They came up with extensively, ensuring a sturdy, solid paste made with an intentional nod to the Grana
several ingenious innovations to make and thick rind. cheese class (e.g., Parmigiano-Reggiano,
Reflecting the Dutch knack for commer- Grana Padano), using cultures that result
cial success, Gouda was one of the first in reminiscent tastes and textures. Among
dairy products to sport a consistent signa- these are Old Amsterdam, Paradiso by
ture look—a prototypical form of branding. Beemster, Parrano and Prima Donna.
Its thick yellow rind was dyed with vinegar-
steeped saffron threads, giving it that fa-
miliar reddish-orange tint. A tradition of
Walnut Gouda
lacing Goudas with such flavoring agents Soufflé
as cloves and cumin was established during
the 17th-century heyday of the spice trade. “A close friend of mine goes to Holland every
A young Gouda has a supple, somewhat year and brings me back a whole wheel of an
elastic paste and features mellow, milky aged Gouda that I can’t get here. I love the au-
flavors along with sweet and fruity notes. thentic flavors of Gouda—aged, sharp and
Not only are Goudas engineered to travel, crystallized. It’s my cheese of choice in much of
they’re designed to age. And they do it in my cooking because it can be both savory and
style, from six to 12 months up to three, sweet with the proper accompaniments. Plus,
BOTTOM: GEOGRAPHY PHOTOS

five, even six years. As they age, Goudas doesn’t everything taste better when it’s forbid-
are completely transformed: Their textures den and brought from Holland just for you?”
become hard, granular and flaky, yet they —BARBARA LYNCH
The weekly cheese market and auction in Gouda retain their moist and crumbly character.

SEPT. 30, 2016 • WINE SPECTATOR 73

RECIPE ¼ pound 18-to-24-month-aged Boeren- TO MAKE THE WALNUT PUREE
kaas, or other Gouda
4 tablespoons butter, at room 1 ½ cups whole walnuts
L cup toasted walnuts, chopped
temperature 1 cup milk
1 tablespoon walnut oil
¼ cup plus 2 tablespoons superfine ¼ cup superfine sugar
sugar 3 tablespoons potato flour
Whites of 4 medium eggs 1. Preheat oven to 350° F and brush 8 soufflé
molds (about 3 1/2 inches high and 2 inches in
4 medium egg yolks
Walnut Puree (recipe follows)
diameter) with the butter. Use 1⁄4 cup sugar
to coat the inside of each mold, rotating to Heat oven to 300° F. Toast the walnuts for
make sure each one is coated evenly. Pour about 7 minutes and let cool. In a small
WINE MATCH out any excess. saucepan, heat the milk and sugar on low
Bodegas Hidalgo Amontillado Jerez 2. Whisk the egg whites in a bowl until soft
and bring to a simmer. Add the walnuts and
Napoleón NV let steep on very low heat for 1 hour. Transfer
peaks form. Add the remaining 2 table-
the mixture to a food processor and puree
“Amontillado Sherry was born to play the role spoons sugar and whisk until the whites are
until smooth. Let cool, then beat in the flour
of consort to a soufflé of walnuts dressed in almost firm. Whisk in 1⁄3 of the walnut puree
and egg yolks until well-combined.
deeply savory Gouda cheese! The Sherry to loosen the whites. Once incorporated, fold
itself has the flavor of rich roasted nuts in the rest of the puree. Fill the soufflé molds
flecked with citrus peel, and its energy on the almost to the brim with the egg white and Barbara
palate is both unctuous and nervy. Its walnut puree mixture, and bake for about Lynch
inherent umami links right into the umami of 15 minutes, until the tops are golden.
the Gouda.”—CAT SILIRIE, EXECUTIVE WINE NO. 9 PARK
3. Using a dry cloth to protect your hands, 9 Park St., Boston
DIRECTOR, BARBARA LYNCH GRUPPO
tip each soufflé out of its pan and onto a Telephone (617)
WINE SPECTATOR ALTERNATES: Williams & plate. Grate the Gouda over the top. Garnish 742-9991
Humbert Amontillado Jerez Dry Don Zoilo with the toasted walnuts and a few drops of Website www.no9park
Collection 12 Year Old NV (91, $25); Emilio Lustau .com
walnut oil. Serves 8.
Amontillado Jerez Los Arcos NV (90, $16)

74 WINE SPECTATOR • SEPT. 30, 2016

.

G. for the fifth taste. average about 1. cheese from Parma date back to the Ro. stashed his Parmesan so it wouldn’t melt contemporary producers such as Cantina in the Great Fire of London. vens hunting the complex profiles of the giano-Reggiano can be grated. Find them at www. Reggiano Icons wide range of lactic.com/recipes. it was renamed the Consorzio del It stands to reason that Italy’s most Formaggio Parmigiano-Reggiano. glutamates. Free ular gastronomist Ferran Adrià’s signa. the amino acids responsible tures.R E GG I A NO T H E P R I D E O F I TA LY C heese experts and connoisseurs place-names began to be used. Flavor ma- yet mouthwateringly melting—Parmi. the highest umami levels of any food. from the likes of Bio Hombre and Casei- it isn’t the same wine of 70 years ago. with suggested wine pairings. percent of those. In 1666. derland of Bengodi making ravioli and ficio Santa Rita. from mammas with toddlers to the traditions codified by the Italian govern.com members can browse our full archive of articles gevity was a daily ration of Parmesan about cheese at www.CO M della Volta have evolved alongside it. 1 selector and affineur. cooking in recipes or eating alone as man empire. You can look up dishes— Lini Oreste & Figli Lambrusco Emilia Rosso Labrusca The cheese’s modern double name from appetizers to sweets and grilled cheese 910 NV (88. However. In versatile culinary ingredients. Top recommended WINE MATCH terranean conquests. tling down to a long. were labeled Reggiano. formed a consortium for grana. (1351). importer Forever Cheese. slivered. Parmigiano-Reggiano Bio Hombre uu gins its existence as raw milk from cows packs an impressive punch.200 On account of its remarkable texture milligrams per 100 grams—second only alone—flaky yet moist. cheese. you don’t want to skimp on it fueled the legions’ European and Medi. savory finish. after all. 30. Cheeses of every ilk would be hard. about a third are in Italy. the Parmesan Ice Cream Sandwich. the region’s cheesemakers elite status as both one of the finest stand. depicting food workers in his won. wine pairing or ingredients. Molière’s diet for lon. fat in dry matter and delivers a concen- der within the prescribed production trated package of proteins and minerals in zone. and those made from the Lambrusco will always be rustic. a more alone table cheeses and one of the most general designation for grainy cheeses. out a type to best Parmigiano-Reggiano’s In 1934. around the W I N E S P E C TATO R . Four Parmigiano. fruity and nutty fla- ply broken into bite-size chunks for en. ads. MAITRE D’ AND SOMMELIER same time in Paris. by it as the ultimate quick-energy snack. in the region of Emilia-Romagna. Italy’s No. Cantina della Volta Lambrusco it was called Parmesano in the Italian ver. Nutritionally. Cravero uu A wheel of Parmigiano-Reggiano be. organic cheeses encouraging diners to reconsider. exported. when more specific . SEPT. and the United States takes 17 coaches of the national soccer team. try our Lambrusco Grasparossa di Castelvetro 2014 (89. as the Emilian kitchen of grated cheese. brands and producers include G. a Parmigiano-Reggiano has some of with fresh tomato sauce to one of molec. food but also a go-to ingredient for a vast Properly aged for the 24-month mini- variety of dishes. and it’s easy to picture how a table cheese. P A R M I G I A N O . vors bursts forth on the palate before set- Giorgio Bonati uu joying as a discrete accompaniment. No wonder everyone It is manufactured according to ancient wheels made every year. Of the roughly 3. Samuel Pepys and Solo di Bruna. Rimosso 2013 nacular. shredded. crumbled. from around Reggio Emilia. has matured over the past 20 years. from the simplest pasta mum.3 million 80-pound easily digestible form. your Parmesan quality.com/ WINE SPECTATOR ALTERNATES: La Battagliola cheese. But we have been marriage with pasta in his Decameron such as Giorgio Bonati. In the Middle Ages. $15) evolved from the unification of Italy in sandwiches to fondue—by type.S. swears ment beginning in the early 20th century. continues to guarantee. “Lambrusco often gets overlooked in the Boccaccio immortalized the cheese’s epic farmstead cheeses from smaller producers area of fine dining. about 20 pressed (pun intended) to single miles from Parma. protect and mar- ports is not only an extraordinary comfort ket the genuine article. finest Parmesans are delighted when the sliced. It’s 32 percent Caseificio Santa Rita uu raised and fed with local grasses and fod.winespectator. 1954. Mitica. and by the European Union in its PDO Literary references to a large-format Whether it’s for composing plates or sal- in 1996. direct and macaroni while perched atop mountains milk of special breeds such as Vacche Rosse honest.winespectator the late 19th century.” —BEPPE PALMIERI. toothsomely firm to Roquefort among cheeses. online Recipe Search. layered or sim. 2016 • WINE SPECTATOR 77 . and it prized cheese and one of its top food ex. Can't get enough cheese? WineSpectator. And for dozens more recipes featuring washed down with Port. The Florentine poet Giovanni from the U. $18). Cravero.

Set aside. In a small bowl. The mixture will separate 6. Heat on Telephone low. remove from heat and let of cheese in a matter of seconds. Strain the broth and reserve. When the Reggiano especially in light of the 2012 earth. Carefully ladle off the creamy top layer until the rice has almost completely childhood. 1 teaspoon white pepper PORTRAIT: ANDREA WYNER. Modena. or 4 as a main course. with a thermometer attached. a milky the rice to cover it completely. the of pepper. taking Serve immediately. bones are made of Parmigiano-Reggiano and I 1. In a medium saucepan. 2016 .it 194° F. Taste the rice as you go. sired creamy consistency.223-912 that is how I got to be the way I am. Plate the risotto better the dish) 4. cheese begins to form threads at the bot- quakes that destroyed nearly 350.000 wheels tom of the pan. osteriafrancescana. until the mixture has reached the de- 24 months.Risotto ½ teaspoon Szechuan pepper ½ teaspoon Jamaican pepper Massimo Cacio e Pepe ½ teaspoon Sarawak pepper Bottura ½ teaspoon wild pepper OSTERIA “Balsamic vinegar runs through my veins. move the pan from the heat and mix in the 1-plus pound freshly grated Parmigiano. softened. BOTTOM: BENOIT DECOUT/REA/REDUX Wheels of Parmigiano-Reggiano age in vast rooms as a worker checks one for quality. We created the rec. Cover tightly 5. Heat the olive oil in a medium saucepan and sprinkle the blended peppers on top. The recipe looks like plain bottom. while the creamy part will finished cooking. with plastic wrap and refrigerate overnight giano-Reggiano broth over medium heat. ladlefuls of the Parmigiano-Reggiano broth white rice but it tastes like hope and like my 2. my FRANCESCANA Via Stella 22. stir together the 5 types Reggiano (ideally aged for at least time. 1 tablespoon olive oil set over high. Discard the solids.”—MASSIMO BOTTURA and reserve. the more you use. Be careful not to heat above Website www. Stir and then let settle. Parmigiano-Reggiano cream a spoonful at a 3. This recipe heat to 176° F. Do not mix the three layers. re- RECIPE be used to finish the dish. and pot. 30. cool to room temperature. Ladle enough of the warmed broth over flavor and characteristics of this cheese but into 3 parts: a creamy top layer. and toast. warm the Parmi- ture was humbling to us all. after about 20 minutes. and stir until even more to celebrate the bounty of this broth in the middle and protein solids on the all the liquid is absorbed. 78 WINE SPECTATOR • SEPT. Serves 6 as an appetizer 1 pound Vialone Nano rice care not to burn. stir in Parmigiano-Reggiano and raise (39) 059. Pour 3 quarts water into a large nonstick Italy drank too much Lambrusco as a young man. Add the rice. ipe Riso Cacio e Pepe to emphasize the unique or for 12 hours. When it is nearly cook the risotto. came out of the need to celebrate Parmigiano. The broth will be used to 7. Continue adding regional product. This act of na.

.

which was first It’s a dynamic that the makers of the shipped in 2014. Shakerag obtains comini began dairy farming there in 1959.. is rubbed in alderwood- world’s elite blues—Roquefort in France. It's a good way to get people to Noir Santa Lucia Highlands SLH 2014 (92. ponents to offset not only their saltiness The Bellamy Blue. Its strong. tures savory hints of new-mown hay and Sequatchie Cove Farm Bellamy Blue uu First among these was the Giacomini grilled and cured meats. it’s important to understand that meaty notes. without alcohol—impossible. This is balanced by sweet. Four U. and in 2000.” this sauce. yet they Greensboro. You put six on a plate and it looks like a caveman WINE SPECTATOR ALTERNATES: Hahn Pinot vors. created another great make no apologies. Bellamy also fea- Jasper Hill Farm Bayley Hazen Blue uu producers have done the same. fornia’s first indigenous blue cheese. brought “I love deep-fried poultry. spicy bite of their blue molds. 80 WINE SPECTATOR • SEPT. Point Reyes Original Blue lives up to its Next among top American blues came name as a U. salty. buttery and rich com. grass-fed milk foundation. much of its unique character from its leaf in the late 1990s. sophisticated and he’d encountered in England. in- challenge is to conjure enough other fla. yeasty and of delicious and intriguing flavors to com- farm. pronounced tang that stops just short of key–macerated fig leaves. Turkeys are too “The coastal winds down in Arroyo Seco to create Oregon Blue. the earthy tones and the inspiration was to wrap select young Or. suggested cheesemaking as a way to sour—a rare if not unique flavor among quatchie’s blues exhibit that key trait of all increase income. and acidity that cuts through the fattiness of the Cary Bryant and David Gremmels. Robert Gia. topped stead Cheese Company and created Cali. —MIKE WARD cipe ingredient. who acquired Rogue WINE MATCH Creamery in Central Point. Blue Cheese Icons former giving the cheese a nice smoky ac- aly—have thoroughly mastered. a hint of grilled fennel and a cheese without salt would be like wine pleasant bittersweet undertone. allow our Pinot Noir to retain a refreshing In 2002. hot on but the sharp. Vt. created in 2015. the Two new American blue superstars come finest blues all offer complex flavor profiles from Sequatchie Creamery. creamy character. salty Rogue River Blue. creamy my category favorites: a generous helping from their four daughters. plement their salt and blue mold. by a finish that accentuates their rich. the dean of California artisan Blue Cheese Sauce cheesemakers.” (90. which vors to create a smooth. Duck is perfect. pioneer. 30. Furthermore. Both of Se- Dean. BLUE B O L D A N D B E AU T I F U L T he blues are a category apart: A year after Rogue River’s auspicious de- Strong. especially with the amount of meat vine leaves and age them for as long as it on the duck—it’s a lower proportion of cheese. the Stilton in England and Gorgonzola in It. Duck Wings With Tom Vella. Like Rogue River Blue. class blue. And now cent and the latter helping it to retain its Point Reyes Farmstead Bay Blue uu a handful of America’s most successful blue moist. southern Tennessee.. but. mellow fin. a salty taste balanced by creamy. 2016 . $30). made you wings. Ore. Rogue River is truly a unique. $22) creamery’s anchor and an excellent re. —JORGE TINOCO. and people who don’t like blue alone love it in red fruit profile complement the gaminess of egon Blues in pear brandy–soaked Syrah the duck like no other. he reduced his herd to bite on the attack quickly evolves into a wrapping. Second. the heels of Shakerag. world. Bayley Hazen deliciously balanced cheese—not just a has a pronounced up-front moldy flavor and moldy salt bomb. Vella’s son Ig sold the firm to I think of confit. near Chattanooga.S. all raised on the notes along with some grassy. in this case in Tennessee whis- lower its environmental impact. Mateo Kehler of Jasper Hill Farm in they’re not for everybody. but chicken wings Wente Pinot Noir Arroyo Seco Riva Penicillium roqueforti molds back from don’t have enough meat—you have to have 20 Ranch 2014 France after World War II and used them for sustenance or a good time. whose brining gets flavor in. SOMMELIER took to develop a host of evocative fla. with support blues. spired by Ticklemore’s Devon Blue. ish—telltale signs of their cows’ fine pas. big. When I think of duck legs. bold and persistent. His wife. nutty and First. Rogue Creamery Oregon Blue uu family of Point Reyes. an offshoot of Oregon Blue and a direct descendant of Roquefort. which gets that texture. meaty ones through a long. Bayley Hazen Blue. they launched the Point Reyes Farm. smoked sea salt and aged in black wax. duck.S. Calif. located in that include sweet. Blue cheese is classic. ture-based diet. The cheesemaker’s American original. Oregon Blue remains the Chalone Pinot Noir Chalone Gavilan 2013 try something different.

.

4 tablespoons Worcestershire sauce 3. mustard it cold. Transfer to a mixing 1 pound blue cheese (preferably Point Telephone (925) bowl. Preheat oven to 300° F. cover and refrigerate for 36 hours. 1 ½ tablespoons honey smooth. Drain on paper towels. RECIPE 1 cup salt 3 cinnamon sticks ¾ tablespoon black peppercorns 2 ½ tablespoons fennel seed 2 tablespoons curing salt No. or grape- seed oil 1 cup rice flour 1 cup cold soda water 2 quarts canola oil. Keep 1. Rinse the brine off the wings and let dry in refrigerator for 2 hours. garlic. Toss the ¾ cup toasted hazelnuts produce a rounder flavor. cider. Remove the wings from the fat and rinse 1 tablespoon chopped basil with hot water. Add duck fat to cover. In a large bowl or a tub with a lid. minced 1 tablespoon grated fresh ginger 12 duck wings 1 large onion. vinegar and lemon juice. thyme and sage in cheesecloth and tie with butcher twine to create a sachet. Add the duck wings. Worcestershire. 4 anchovy fillets. Wrap the onion. 2016 . Calif. Coat the wings in the rice flour batter. Let wings F. Loosely chop the toasted hazel- wentevineyards. rosemary. 1 tablespoon chopped parsley 4. whisk in the aioli and season with salt 456-2450 Reyes Bay Blue). Process 3 tablespoons roasted garlic Mike Ward ¼ cup Tabasco sauce until smooth. 1 1 clove garlic. Transfer the duck wings to a high-sided roasting pan and tuck the sachet in near the middle of the pan.com 1 cup sparkling apple cider nuts in a food processor and mix into the PORTRAIT: ELI PITTA Wine Spectator Best of ½ cup apple cider vinegar sauce with a small amount of crumbled blue Award of Excellence cheese and the parsley and basil. finishing and pepper. combine the first 7 ingredients with 1/2 gallon hot wa- ter and mix until salt is dissolved. wings in the blue cheese sauce. Add the pureed garlic mixture. Heat oil in a high-sided skillet over high until ¼ cup Dijon mustard 1 ¾ cups mayonnaise 2. about Pepper to taste set in the fat in the refrigerator overnight to 3 minutes. Break the blue cheese into small pieces and THE RESTAURANT AT WENTE VINEYARDS ¼ cup Bourbon blend in a food processor until it starts to get 5050 Arroyo Road. 2. quartered 2 heads garlic. root ends removed ¼ bunch parsley ¼ bunch rosemary ¼ bunch thyme ¼ bunch sage 1–2 quarts rendered duck fat. Combine flour TO MAKE THE BLUE CHEESE SAUCE and soda water to make a sandy batter. Tabasco. then pat dry. plus more for Website www. Combine garlic. Add wings and cook until crispy. ¼ cup fresh lemon juice 82 WINE SPECTATOR • SEPT. Stir together the anchovy fillets. Serves 6. Bourbon and honey in a blender. Livermore. finely chopped and mayonnaise to combine. 3. parsley. Let cool. or a depth of 2–3 inches in pan Blue Cheese Sauce (recipe follows) 1. and bake for an instant-read thermometer registers 350° Salt to taste about 2 hours or until very tender. 30.

.

2016 . 30.84 WINE SPECTATOR • SEPT.

BURGUNDY’S
VIBRANT
YEAR
Vintners turned a difficult growing season to their
advantage in 2013, producing intense, racy whites
By Bruce Sanderson Photographs by Jon Wyand

Still Life by
Andrew McCaul

TASTING REPORT | WHITE BURGUNDY

F
rank Sinatra’s immortal words about
New York, “If I can make it there, I’ll
make it anywhere,” could easily apply
to the Chardonnay vineyards of Bur-
gundy. Challenges abound in the
famed appellations of the Côte d’Or, and the 2013
vintage saw its share, with adversity testing the
skills of growers and négociants alike throughout
the season. Yet when the lees had settled and the
wines were bottled, the region’s vintners had
proven themselves once again with a range of
outstanding whites.
“We were challenged by a late and poor flow-
ering, hail in July, mixed weather in September
and a late October harvest not seen since 1978,”
wrote négociant Alex Gambal in a report on the
2013 harvest. Referring to the balance of “stress
or romance” in winemaking, Gambal noted that
the pendulum had swung toward stress for the
second year in a row. Philippe Colin achieved success in 2013 with bottlings from both the premier cru Chassagne-Montrachet and
The 2013 vintage is the most recent in a string grand cru Chevalier-Montrachet vineyards, a testament to the producer’s mastery of the difficult vintage.
of challenging years for Burgundy’s vintners. As
the latest harvest since 1978, the vintage is also a throwback to this year’s report. More than 200 2013s earned outstanding ratings
earlier decades when achieving adequate sugar levels was the goal of 90 points or higher on the Wine Spectator 100-point scale—an
rather than maintaining acidity, which has been the struggle in the impressive number given the difficult growing season—and I give
warmer years since 2000. the vintage an overall rating of 90 points. (A free alphabetical list
However, if you are a fan of vibrant, acid-driven white Burgundy, of scores and prices for all wines tasted is available at www.wine-
2013 is a vintage to explore. “Sleek,” “bracing” and “racy” are the spectator.com/093016.)
descriptors that best match the profiles of these Chardonnays, The hail on July 23 affected a broad area from Aloxe-Corton
which offer fruit flavors ranging from peach, apple and pear to to Volnay, but left most of the major Chardonnay vineyards in the
melon and lemon, with supporting notes of flowers, spices, honey, Côte de Beaune relatively unscathed. There was also a storm on
butterscotch and pastry. Some verge on creamy in texture, while Oct. 5 and Oct. 6, which compromised the skins of any grapes still
others are more linear and tensile, with tangy aftertastes. on the vines. This put growers in a tight spot, forcing them to find
Furthermore, several premiers crus rival the year’s grands crus, the right window in which to pick at full ripeness before any harm
fielding exceptional quality at a fraction of the price. Chassagne- could be done. For the most part they succeeded, picking ripe
Montrachet’s Philippe Colin, for example, inter-
preted the vintage well, with his Chassagne-Mon-
trachet Les Chaumées (95 points, $90) equaling
the quality of his Chevalier-Montrachet (95,
$355). Both wines beautifully express their respec-
tive climats, while also featuring the creamy tex-
tures that only some of the best 2013s possess.
“We did a lot of bâtonnage until the malolactic,”
explains Colin, referring to the process of lees stir-
ring. “The wines tasted acidic before the malo,
but very expressive and round after.”
Colin is joined at the top of the heap by Châ-
teau Génot-Boulanger’s Meursault Bouchères (95,
$100), which starts out lush and smoky yet fin-
ishes lean and minerally; Ramonet’s opulent, ma-
jestic Montrachet (95, $1,000); and Maison
Roche de Bellene’s Corton-Charlemagne (95,
$267), showing fine tension and stoniness.
Since my previous report (“Small Wonder,”
Sept. 30, 2015), I have tasted approximately 550
white Burgundies in our New York office, nearly Château Génot-Boulanger released a classic Meursault from 2013, offering a mix of lushness and minerality.
350 of them from the 2013 vintage, the focus of Despite challenging vintners with the latest harvest since 1978, 2013 still yielded a range of noteworthy wines.

SEPT. 30, 2016 • WINE SPECTATOR 87

with a handful priced at $500 or higher. presi. most growers and houses have held steady between gogne to grand cru—according to wine director Aldo Sohm. while village-level whites are from 20 percent to 60 percent less for growers. $365). with the exception of the Chevalier-Mon- trachet Domaine (93. As 2012 and 2013. For 2013. $127) and Corton Côte de Côte Beaune White Vergennes (93. allocations from top producers decrease and premature oxidation ducers have increased prices by $5 to $10. Bouchard’s whites generally exhibit a lean intensity in 2013. quality of the press- AUXERRE • Chablis BURGUNDY A31 A6 ing. The pre- conditions during the summer resulted in a smaller crop.TASTING REPORT | WHITE BURGUNDY Chardonnay fruit before the rains arrived or working to minimize To Paris the damage from the storm. the poor flowering. SUR-SAÔNE A3 FRANCE furon stirred the wines judiciously during the malolactic conver.” notes Gilles de Courcel. selection of the appropriate casks and limited interventions r ive eR during the élevage period in cask. MÂCON • AREA OF Bouchard Père & Fils winemaker Frédéric Weber added a little DETAIL Beaujolais A40 of the final press juice to the blend to offset the naturally high tar- A6 N taric acid with potassium. Four wines from the area are top values. however. Pouilly-Fuissé. anywhere miers crus range from $75 to $200. the grands crus are going to set you back at least $150. respectively. in the Mâconnais subregion. 88 WINE SPECTATOR • SEPT. (or “premox. or On the downside. Sa ôn dent of Chanson Pere & Fils. a few pro. “The key factors for me are grape maturity. are buying the entire range of white Burgundies—from Bour- That said. as prices have been on the rise in Customers at New York’s upscale restaurant Le Bernardin. purchasing strategy has been evolving. Sohm’s percent and 50 percent since 2009. •PARIS Mâconnais PARC  er NATUREL  e Riv sions (about four times during a seven-month period) to maintain RÉGIONAL DU  HAUT-JURA Saôn purity and avoid oxidation. 2016 . prices have risen between 15 working to resolve) continues to make consumers nervous. Overall. hail and mixed weather more likely $250. Where I could make direct comparisons. is a rare source of affordability in the increasingly expensive white Burgundy category.” a complex problem that Burgundy producers are creased slightly. including the Cô BEAUNE • Chassagne-Montrachet Les Chenevottes (94. which were harvested Oct. 30. which is rich and juicy. De Courcel and winemaker Jean-Pierre Con. which recent vintages given the string of smaller-than-normal harvests holds a Best of Award of Excellence from Wine Spectator for its wine since 2010. $200). roughly 30 percent on average. “This limited intervention can only PARC  • DIJON A3 6 NATUREL  r Côte de Nuits O be achieved with a strict control of the quality of the grapes. 8. another year of expensive wines. This translates to now $60 to $100. while others have de. list.” RÉGIONAL DU  d’ MORVAN te Chanson fielded seven outstanding wines in 2013. 5 and Chalonnaise • CHALON- 9 Oct. which is higher in that portion of the • LYON 0 miles 20 pressing from the grape skins.

.

.

Watch at www. the Jean Chartron Rully Montmorin (90. It’s showing more freshness than from barrel also a year in which several premiers crus are at 2010 93 Clean and pure. or Albert Bichot’s mouthwatering Chablis Domaine Long-Depaquit (89.-Véran. classic. TASTING REPORT | WHITE BURGUNDY Mâconnais to the south. even creaminess. hail and difficult growing from the Mâconnais are all about balance. others are soft the same level as the grands crus.” and Bouchard Père & Fils’ sleek and tangy Beaune White Premier he explains. elegant and balanced. some are low in acidity and heavy A score range indicates preliminary analysis based on barrel samples and/or a limited sampling. “drink” means most of a glass if you know the basics such as the grapes. both of which con- tinue to be sources of distinctive whites. at worst. fleshy wines. with peach. both of which soon. Sohm doesn’t foresee prices coming down anytime U. $19) hail from the southern end. 75–79. many wines of the vintage W I N E S P E C TATO R . the Domaine des Vieilles Pierres St. with complexity. $32). Vintage ratings: 95–100. “The prices of white Burgundy are getting very high. $25) may be a little harder to find. good. unripe if picked early tor’s lead taster on the wines of Burgundy. $26) offers the lemony profile of the appellation.” A few worth seeking out are the Drouhin Vaudon Chablis 2014 White Burgundy’s pricing makes it a constant challenge to find (92. others are too lean and shrill If you love racy. The best areas to seek out are Chablis in the north and the Vignes 2014 (92. Catherine & Pascal Rollet Pouilly-Fuissé 2014 93–96 An excellent vintage. In the Côte Chalonnaise. with ample flesh and. Drink or hold acidity and underlying mineral elements. Drink or hold 2014 (90. But it’s easy to enjoy recommended Drinkability: “NYR” means most of the wines of the vintage are yet to be released. $20) is a lush style. fleshy textures and soft Drink or hold quality-to-price ratio. 85–89.-Véran Les Pommards (90. with lively structures if harvested Drink or hold Senior editor Bruce Sanderson is Wine Specta- late. $23). look for Drouhin Vaudon’s linear Cha- blis Réserve de Vaudon (90. best have firmed Drink or hold up over the past year. $31) boasts lemon. then 2014 is the vintage to explore. and nearby Domaine Faiveley’s Montagny (90. without being too Drink or hold rich or powerful. but I excelled in 2014. flavors and how to find value. yellow plum and mineral notes. The Louis Jadot Pouilly-Fuissé 2014 (91.wine spectator.” he says. In 2013. “hold” means most of the ageworthy wines have yet to fully mature. $45) represent a marked step up in price. the 2014 vintage appears very promising for of maturity in a wine premox. but it’s a guideline because premox Cru du Château (88. “With the ex. concentrated wines. is deservedly famous for—steely. with density and concentration 2014 (91. 50–74. if charming. $49) “I have been working for a couple of years on a five-year rule. showing ripe fruit flavors. $28) and Joseph Drouhin St. mediocre. lemon. vibrant acidity balanced by ample Drink or hold taste.-Véran En Crèches (90. outstanding. 2012 92 Low yields led to rich. 30. such as Domaine Clos de la Chapelle’s rich and fleshy Beaune White Les Reversées (89. with good acidity 2013 is a vintage to buy for its backbone of 2011 92 Charming. botrytis character. evoking apple. Great in Chablis 2007 92 Precise. showing great potential. for Drink some. chive and stone. pure and flinty—while the whites ception of 2015. $22) from Burgundy’s northern lim- Rating White Burgundy Vintages its. flesh in the best examples. From St. the wines of the vintage are ready to drink. is still an issue and people are growing nervous and call every sign Looking ahead. very good.CO M not yet reviewed. not Burgundy can be complicated. primarily from Chablis and the Mâconnais. 2006 91 Best are pure. where bottlings Chablis in both the 2013 and 2014 vintages under the Drouhin Vaudon label. with ripe fruit and slender profiles. $20). 80–84. where yields are OK. best have good cut. 2016 • WINE SPECTATOR 91 .” white Burgundy. The wines are arriving now at wineshops in the Regardless. SEPT. However. “This is not rigid. pure and elegant. Francine & Olivier Savary Chablis Sélection Vieilles value. $28). most can be enjoyed now rich and concentrated whites are more to your 2008 93 Smaller-than-average crop.. offering a great 2009 89 Exotic in character. 90–94. full of lemon cake. and though Daniel Barraud’s St. structures. in a shortage of wine and therefore high prices. wines are rich NYR Domaine de la Chapelle Les Grands Climats and ripe. texture. with ripe fruit. apple and white peach flavors on an elegant profile. apricot and spice flavors. These wines seem especially affordable com- Joseph Drouhin estates manager Philippe Drouhin (left) and winemaker Jerôme Faure-Brac released outstanding pared with the Côte de Beaune. Chablis shows the classic style of Chardonnay it don’t see this changing in the near future. vibrant white Burgundy.-Claire 2014 (91.S. BONUS VIDEO: Burgundy Basics—Quick Tips. ripe fruit and seasons—and this year [2016] the frost and again hail—will result vibrant structure. there are other excellent Barraud wines at slightly higher prices. the company’s Chablis arm. $28) and Jean-Marc Brocard Chablis Ste.com/093016.-Véran 2013 90 Best are sleek and vibrant.

.

.

.

stone flavors to flow effortlessly. with vibrant acidity and an aftertaste of butterscotch and mineral. with a lingering citrus finish and a hint of stone. with seashore. stony conclusion. Long and tangy on the finish. apple and spice. A seashore brininess greets the nose in this lively. with vibrant acidity and a lingering finish. white flowers and lemon curd. this white exhibits peach. focused style. hazelnut and oak spice flavors. with fine depth and richness. peach.-Claire 2014 91 $22 A whiff of the seashore complements peach. LES HÉRITIERS DU COMTE LAFON  90 $30 BLAIN-GAGNARD Montrachet 2013 94 $825 Mâcon-Milly-Lamartine 2014 A complex. detailed white. with lemon. offset by vibrant acidity. Lush and smoky. revealing hints of stone and seashore on the finish. lemon cake. which is seamless and vibrant. showing white peach. with floral and bread dough nuances. allowing the apple. offering notes of peach. notes in this white. lemon and mineral flavors in this enticing white. culminating in a long aftertaste that evokes orange sherbet. apple and floral flavors. A free alphabetical list is available at www. An intense.winespectator. CHANSON PÈRE & FILS Chassagne-Montrachet 94 $127 CHRISTIAN MOREAU PÈRE & FILS Chablis 2014 90 $30 Les Chenevottes 2013 Precision and harmony define this white. SEPT. floral. Cleansing and elegant. TASTING REPORT | WHITE BURGUNDY Bruce Sanderson’s Recommended White Burgundies More than 550 wines were reviewed for this report. CHRISTOPHE CORDIER Bourgogne White Vieilles Vignes 2014 90 $28 CHÂTEAU GÉNOT-BOULANGER Meursault Bouchères 2013 95 $100 A mix of honey. vanilla to the apple pie. hazelnut and spice DOMAINE FAIVELEY Corton-Charlemagne 2013 94 $341 flavors in this chalky white. this offers peach. with fine tension and a bracing finish. Fresh and long. apple and mineral flavors. backed up by ripe peach. with a mineral element emerging in the end. lemon and baking spice A textbook flinty aroma gives way to green apple. wiry white. Apricot. rich and smoky. apple pie. harmonious white. citronella. and mineral wrapping around a core of peach. apple and mineral. lanolin and quinine flavors ride the bracing structure with a citrus element courtesy of lemony acidity. white BRUNO COLIN Chassagne-Montrachet En Remilly 2013 94 $100 peach. This white shows harmony. vibrant acidity in this intense. DOMAINE GILLES NOBLET Pouilly-Fuissé La Collonge 2014 90 $30 This seamless white is balanced and succulent. baked apple. melon and lemon Clos des Chevaliers 2013 flavors. which is focused and harmonious. butter and spice notes are driven by bracing acidity. driven by the racy backbone. NICOLAS POTEL Pouilly-Fuissé 2013 90 $30 A hint of oyster shell adds interest to the apple. Creamy in texture. CHANSON PÈRE & FILS Viré-Clessé 2014 89 $25 A crisp. flint and mineral aromas and flavors. vibrant style. with hints JOSEPH DROUHIN Montrachet Marquis de Laguiche 2012 94 $900 of mineral. apple and lemon fruit. fresh and fruity. apple and augment the peach. backed by a vivid spine of acidity. showing apple. featuring lemon cake. this offers peach. VINS AUVIGUE Mâcon-Solutré Le Moulin du Pont 2014 90 $19 Oyster shell accents underline the peach and ripe apple fruit in this LUCIEN LE MOINE Meursault La Pièce sous le Bois 2013 94 $160 rich. with notes of butterscotch apple and melon flavors. lemon fruit. Sleek and mouthwatering. long and focused. lingering with lemon details. The structure shines on the finish. flavors. A tightly wound style. apple and lemon cake. with plenty of substance and refined flavors of peach. wax and spice accents enhance the lemon. with vibrant acidity and abundant apple. lemon PATRICK PIUZE Chablis Bougros 2014 94 $74 cake and light mineral flavors. PHILIPPE COLIN Chevalier-Montrachet 2014 95 $213 JEAN-MARC BROCARD Chablis Ste. this racy white offers a core of peach. JEAN-PIERRE & ALEXANDRE ELLEVIN Chablis 2014 90 $25 MAISON ROCHE DE BELLENE Corton-Charlemagne 2013 95 $267 Delicate and complex. this delivers vanilla. adding a hint of nutmeg and honey flavors. lemon. all supported by a racy structure. to a long. CAVE DE LUGNY Mâcon-Villages La Côte Blanche 2014 89 $14 Elegant. this features apple. JOSEPH DROUHIN St. with smoky lemon.000 Rich yet offset by vivid acidity. apple and mineral flavors LOUIS JADOT Chevalier-Montrachet Les Demoiselles 2013 94 $476 matched to a supple texture and lemony acidity.com members can access complete reviews for all wines tasted using the online Wine Ratings search. lemon and toasted spice flavors. lemon cake– and melon-flavored white. LOUIS MOREAU Chablis 2015 90 $25 JEAN CHARTRON Chevalier-Montrachet 94 $381 Round.J. Oak treatment rounds out this rich and juicy white. apple. This is rich. citronella and spice notes to Smoke and flint aromas lead off. 30. with the vibrant intensity of the vintage. PHILIPPE COLIN Chassagne-Montrachet Les Chaumées 2013 95 $90 DROUHIN VAUDON Chablis 2014 92 $23 Rich and creamy. lemon and Citronella. with a refreshing finish. apple and light toast flavors. with fine acidity imparting focus and length. featuring stunning aromas and flavors of lime blossom. apple and spice flavors in harmony with the smooth texture. showing balance and length. WILLIAM FÈVRE Chablis Bougros Côte Bouguerots 95 $100 LOUIS JADOT Pouilly-Fuissé 2014 91 $28 Domaine 2014 Ripe and fleshy. citronella and This is all about texture and balance. concentrated and tightly knit. WineSpectator. floral and citrus flavors marks this lush. elegant style. VINCENT & FILS Pouilly-Fuissé Marie-Antoinette 2014 90 $29 A clean. apple and melon accented by floral details. which has intensity and length. this balanced white delivers white peach. 2016 • WINE SPECTATOR 95 . with buried peach and lemon fruit. J. harmonious white. apple and apricot flavors. An elegant white. apple and lemon flavors. Broad. peach. peach and stone flavors are heightened by the mineral flavors. Powerful lemon. vanilla. TOP WINES TOP VALUES WINE SCORE PRICE WINE SCORE PRICE BOUCHARD PÈRE & FILS Montrachet Domaine 2014 95 $875 DOMAINE CHANTEMERLE Chablis Fourchaume 2014 92 $30 Sleek.com/093016. juicy and mouthwatering white. creating a nice tension to the lemon. with a dose of sweet spices. ALBERT BICHOT Chablis Domaine Long-Depaquit 2013 89 $20 Fresh-cut apple aromas and flavors are joined by lemon and chive MICHEL NIELLON Chevalier-Montrachet 2013 94 $360 notes in this brisk. PATRICK PIUZE Chablis Terroir de Chablis 2014 90 $28 Lemon and greengage flavors permeate this racy white. cardamom. lemon and almond flavors. Rich and concentrated. Mineral. with excellent length. This harmonious white is lush and toasty. offering lemon. Harmonious.-Véran 2014 90 $19 RAMONET Montrachet 2013 95 $1.

HIS OWN MAN RISK-TAKER CHRISTIAN MOREAU BUILDS ONE OF CHABLIS’ BEST DOMAINES BY BRUCE SANDERSON ❘ PHOTOGRAPHS BY JON WYAND .

2016 • WINE SPECTATOR 97 . 30.SEPT.

.

With age. in the fam- ily home in Chablis. Officially I don’t & Fils into one of the best sources of Chablis in the region. which each harvest would bear fruit for the Chablis Vaillons Cuvée Guy Moreau. look- ing out over the same vines.” he says. 15. Fabien Moreau. Twenty-two years ago. “He’s the boss.” Moreau is justifiably proud and is quick to give credit to Fabien states Fabien. a combination of flowers.S. is a key man at the domaine. Christian Moreau surveys a parcel of vines in the premier cru Vaillons. But the Moreau family always retained ownership of its vineyards. 30. most importantly. bringing with refreshing acidity and an austere.” Christian says with a twinkle in his eye. Great Chablis is recognizable first by a green-gold hue. Moreau & Fils. it degrees in enology and viticulture and experience in other wine regions to the project. on an overcast November day in 1994. if the side names such as Raveneau. survived two near-fatal skiing ac- cidents and avoided a tragic tunnel fire in the Alps border- ing Switzerland and Italy. he knew these vines well. Christian and his son Fabien founded Domaine Christian Moreau Père & Fils. marl and limestone formed more than 137 million years ago. However. Guy built the relationship with U. on my first visit to Chablis. mostly in premiers and grands crus sites around the village. In 1939. tradition and the reputation of his region. in 1997. or skiing in the rick Piuze. C hristian Moreau was born Oct. Moreau and I stood in the same spot. exist. It gives its name to a unique expression of Chardonnay. hints of iodine or seashore and.” Moreau. he’s either in the vineyards or in the win- steely core and mineral. then in 1904 expanded their operations to include né- gociant activities. along with the other parcels that had been in his family since 1904. Dauvissat. exporting the firm’s Chablis to the United States in 1936. is the northernmost part of the Burgundy region. 2016 • WINE SPECTATOR 99 . “OK. But behind the physical pres- ence and strong personality lies a shrewd businessman with respect for family. and with the 2002 harvest.O n an unseasonably warm day late this winter. flint. overtones of honey and a mellow richness. they ery office at the edge of town on Rue d’Oberwesel. “My father planted these vines in 1933. importer Frederick Wildman & Sons that continues to this day. green orchard fruits such as Granny Smith apple and green plum. one of the best-known vineyards in Chablis. Chablis. Moreau & Fils. Moreau and his son have built Domaine Christian Moreau Père different climats on the property. It is a medium. at harvest in 1952. Most importantly. I have my hands more in the pumps or the for his work ethic and commitment to coaxing the best from the must. the original family company. steely character. the fils (son) of Moreau & Fils. iodine elements. He left France as a teenager to work in the timber industry in the Canadian Rockies. whose wines can be stony. His ancestors were originally bar- rel makers who began buying vineyards and making wine.to full-bodied white. and he really did it. 1943. A lot has happened in the interim. Moreau’s wines tend to have more flesh but retain the French or Italian Alps. Guy Moreau was appointed food-and-beverage manager SEPT. along. Guy. reflect their individual vineyard origins. but he’s here every morning before me. elder Moreau isn’t traveling to promote the wines. Chablis owes its unique character to its dis- tinctive geology. William Fèvre and Pat. quick with a smile or a joke and who loves a good glass of wine. He put everything on the line at 60 [years old]. they then began vinifying. com- plex and long-lived. His father. now 72. As the winemaker for J. aging and bottling Chablis from nearly 29 acres. located about halfway between Paris and Beaune. Through a series of deals. Its scent is piercing. “My father really has a big role in the success of the domaine. its bedrock contains fossilized chalk. point- ing out the gnarled trunks. preferably grand cru Chablis. assumes a nutty flavor. Guy Moreau (right). Bur- gundy giant Boisset bought J. This has imbued him with a love for life and a passion for the land of his ancestors. is a bear of a man with a big heart. and uncle Jacques began Christian Moreau shares a photograph of his father.

.

business there. including Domaine de Chevalier in Bordeaux and with the glue on the table. Christian had had enough. “I didn’t feel like coming back—the mentality. Christine. and the same year began sell. By 1984. in a camp of about 80 lumberjacks in Hinton. bottle by bottle. con- States. He went to school in Chablis and later moved to Paris. the young Chablisien would try his fortunes there. and Patrick. In the cellar I can remember the way they in Bordeaux. “Myself.” he says. They have been married for 50 years and have three sons.’ He said York. met and married in Canada during Christian’s years working in the lumber to make the wine. “I have a letter from my father when he was in New ‘What do you want to do?’ I said. with each bottle put in straw. I still had my pay- check when I was working with certain people. but Moreau paid his own way home. ‘I don’t know.” the bottom in the vineyard and the cellar. “I was not a bad boy.’ ” of 1921?’ So they still had some stock.” Christian says. bien. work- ing for the summer. I started from there is a big improvement. he worked with the foreman and learned how to prune. when I was Moreau’s importer. a relationship that exists yard. It was there that Moreau met his wife of 50 years.. you know I was in Canada. to this day. were born in Canada. and I can remember for the U. by hand. G uy Moreau came to his son’s wedding in 1966 in Rimouski and told Christian that when he was ready to return to France. so it was not 35 hours [a week] like in France.for the French Pavilion at the New York World’s Fair in 1939. “I’m the only Frenchman in the family. from the harvest right to the end. 16. it was Christian giving the orders on how Christian and his wife.” says Moreau. Philippe. He soon began cutting logs.” he states. recalls. Moreau decided to return to France for good and join the family business. Al- berta. “I followed instructions from the cellar master and learned how to make wine. 47. 41. 2016 • WINE SPECTATOR 101 . “When you see the way we bottle and ship the wine now. Fabien. Olivier Leflaive Frères in Burgundy’s Côte d’Or before returning erything was in wooden boxes.” says Christian with a chuckle. Yet after a month back in France. He later sent the ticket. Hinton was near the resort town of Jasper. ev. Moreau bought his own Kenworth. Moreau compares his path to that taken by Fa- Surrounded by the family business. 30. let’s say. New Zealand. He worked for five different estates in France and were bottling. He met Colonel Frederick S. I didn’t want to work in the cellar.” he adds. how to op- erate a tractor among the rows of vines. “He went the other way. His first job was feeding horses and cleaning stables. bottle by bottle. “I was. Moreau’s parents separated when he was a baby and divorced in ther establishing the family company’s network in the United 1945. I didn’t want to work in the vine- ing wine to Frederick Wildman & Sons. and during the winters drove the big Kenworth rigs. labeling. who had purchased tinuing his education. 360 to 380 hours a month. But in 1972. Then it was the cellar for four years.” he to the family business. “That’s when I learned le métier. ‘We have a big problem. but I knew. His first job was in the vineyards. Their two oldest boys. who has a degree in enology from the University of Dijon tions of wine became deeply ingrained. Bellows and Co. writing to his father—it was in ’39: ‘Can you ship 700 cases to me. a student from Rimouski. fur. in the and a master’s in vineyard and winery management from ENITA perfume of the wine. Wildman. Alberta. Moreau’s earliest recollec. transporting timber. 43. When my father said. Eventually. he would pay for his plane ticket. Québec. was born in France. He is more technical SEPT. the business. At 17 years old. making his living as a truck driver for the remainder of the 11 years he spent in the Canadian wilderness. He had a cousin from Mâcon who worked as a logger in Canada. For four years. but has Canadian citizen- ship. I didn’t want to go to school. not much. the way they work. Christine.S.

” says from Petit Chablis to the grands CHRISTIAN MOREAU PÈRE & FILS 91 $142 Moreau. Sometimes I can bring him to France from New Zealand in 2001. CHRISTIAN MOREAU PÈRE & FILS 92 $65 in this vineyard. vinify and sell from the domaine.” d’Or. and with the 11. Côte need to have an exit door. always.“What’s most important is that we recovered all our vineyards to manage. he and Fabien produce 11. Loire. Chablis (Grand Cru) Les Clos Clos des Hospices 1. J. Moreau & Fils ares (29 acres) of family vineyards. Moreau is referring to the peak production years when J. The vineyards remained in the hands of the family “You can always get bigger.61 acres stopped using the synthetic treat- Though his cousin Jean-Jacques Chablis (Grand Cru) Blanchot 0. Recent Releases Fabien’s grandfather are farmed maine Louis Moreau) and Chris. through a series of relationship with his father. Christian and he decided Chablis (Grand Cru) Les Clos 7. Since 2008.47 acres tion in Vaillons in 2007.16 acres entire estate has been certified to end the contract. the fer- portant. on the négociant side of the business. since 2002 the duo has bought ity at the edge of Chablis. Chablis (Premier Cru) Vaillons 11. Today. “It’s challenging.24 acres experiment with organic cultiva- Boisset Group bought J. “Not can control it and make your own reputation. I know what big is. Christian was the Moreau Père & Fils The first thing Fabien wanted only family member remaining Petit Chablis 1.500 cases. it had Père & Fils was born. it’s in the past. new facil. Chablis. “But he really gave me Calvet and then almost immedi. are harvested by hand. They would re. so I have a good feeling gain control in 2002. Holdings of Domaine Christian what you want.6 hect- W hen Christian came home in 1972. Chablis Vaillon 2014 the cellar.” says Fabien. 2016 . grapes from a 15-acre parcel. He began to had already retired when the Chablis (Grand Cru) Vaudésir 1.”—Christian Moreau than I am. When you have over 12 acres of grands crus. My father has a strong personality. He and his father soon bought the building on Rue d’Oberwesel. “We are quite lucky to have a nice Moreau’s father and cousin Jean-Jacques had decided to embark domaine.” Chablis 2014 for the malolactic.000 cases and moved to a big. J. first to Fabien. Chablis Vaillon Cuvée Guy Moreau 2013 “The decision to enter into the CHRISTIAN MOREAU PÈRE & FILS 92 $97 The harvesting machine broke joint venture in 1974 [with Hiram Chablis Valmur 2013 on the last day of picking in 2001 Walker] wasn’t mine—I was just CHRISTIAN MOREAU PÈRE & FILS 91 $106 and since then. but we complement ourselves. It’s like working with return in 2001. yet he and Fabien work together very consolidations. and a salesperson. He was the wine. and then employ four people full-time in the vineyards. what’s most im. “Wild yeast When Fabien Moreau returned brings depth and complexity to 102 WINE SPECTATOR • SEPT.’ ” By 1997. with five years’ advance notice.82 acres halved in 2003. Jean. and the & Fils.” the Ngatarawa winery in Hawkes Bay. but you & Fils was bottling wines from Muscadet.” beams Moreau.96 acres yards.” says holdings. Chablis (Les Pargues) 2. Between 1995 and 1997. but we get along very well. The use of herbicides was maker. You can make a joint venture. Beaujolais and even Bordeaux.” explains Moreau. you Hiram Walker in 1974. “Whether it was a good Chablis Les Clos Clos des Hospices 2013 crus.73 acres was fewer chemicals in the vine- at J. and exporting to many coun- The agreement with Hiram Walker stipulated that after a mini. decision or not. all the parcels. that’s perfect. Moreau Chablis (Grand Cru) Valmur 2. tion to the next can be difficult. grown to 650. he had just spent a year at a few ideas. Domaine Christian Moreau was still a family company. 30. buying grapes and looking Chablis (Fontenay. CHRISTIAN MOREAU PÈRE & FILS  91 $45 He has also made changes in The main thing. the Moreau family could once again with Fabien and Christian in the cellar. the key to the cellar. WINE SCORE PRICE organically. Chablis Blanchot 2013 old trees.25 acres Ecocert since 2010.” domaine. the vineyards. Moreau himself had a difficult Guy died in 1989. control grapes. vinify indigenous yeast and no bacteria CHRISTIAN MOREAU PÈRE & FILS  90 $30 and sell from the domaine. the Jacques’ son Louis was coming old vines in Vaillons planted by back to his family domaine (Do. ‘Do ately to the Boisset Group. Little did Moreau know at the time how important Burgundy is a region where passing the reins from one genera- that stipulation would become. They were sold. “I really like this part tian’s son Fabien was planning to CHRISTIAN MOREAU PÈRE & FILS  93 $97 of Vaillons. Today. By the early 1990s. “The protection was there. voilà. Moreau. Chablis Les Clos 2013 coming back from Canada. purchased grapes) 14.25 acres ment for botrytis. He said. is that we recovered all CHRISTIAN MOREAU PÈRE & FILS  91 $97 mentations are conducted using Chablis Vaudésir 2013 our vineyards to manage. and in 2005 he after the day-to-day operations. tries. They mum of 10 years of supplying grapes to the joint venture. Moreau the family was not crazy. almost the on a fifty-fifty joint venture with the Canadian spirits company same of premiers crus. Moreau & Fils became part of Allied Domecq’s well. Chablis and Petit Chablis.000 to 11. In addition to the domaine fruit.

.

say ‘buy.’ He’s 9 years old. tries. In 2015. however. Argentina.” he says of the team that has been in place lons Cuvée Guy Moreau. mented and aged in stainless-steel tanks.” says Moreau.” he observes. the wines.” cautions Moreau. when we are out [of stock]. see a Expanding means buying vines. “I can trust my vineyard fermentation of the premiers crus Vaillons and the old-vines Vail. “It’s easy to stainless-steel tanks were replaced. his daughter or his son. “When you The Moreau wines have become more precise. “The transmis- always believed new oak and small barrels in particular were not sion [for the future] is done. quality. We don’t want to go into big volume. have vines for sale. from Australia.’ but there are no vines for sale.” he explains. workers completely. he can control every- (128-liter pièces) are used for up to 40 percent of the thing. but wants to take over they will.” from the U. and the Valmur and Les tage. With the domaine hitting its stride now after 14 harvests. even from the east coun- The other major change in the cellar is the adoption of wood. Christian quality. “Chablis maine is gone. it is a question of heritage. ing and aging Chablis. a 1. “Then the spirit of texture in addition to complexity.” He under the direction of Fabien’s daughter or son. So.. It will stay in the family. to fight against all the Chardonnay and there are some working in the middle. where the children are fighting each other. 2016 . Fabien. fer. “I used to be in the lumber business. fighting in the fam- tlings from the late 1980s and early 1990s reflected the different ily. One day there will vineyards. I want to be like daddy. His son says. under Fabien’s control.” explains Fabien. “I’m not in the lumber Moreau needed to ensure its future. referring to the use of oak for ferment. including the Clos des Hospices. and though bot.” he and Fabien use it judiciously. “The customer needs to trust that The grands crus Blanchots and Vaudésir are entirely barrel-fer. mix of stainless steel and barrel for fermentation. Moreau & Fils. 30. we can replace it with the next vin- mented in older oak. and then at least for the next generation. today there is even greater individual identity and char.Christian and Fabien Moreau amid the stainless-steel tanks Christian prefers for Chablis production. another finishes world and some good ones. all the Besides. the family. since the beginning in 2002.” Moreau was proud of the clean. despite working alone in the cellar. but growth can create problems. If one M oreau’s position against the use of oak has softened. first business. probably be something for sale. mineral style of Chablis. you have to strive to be above and think about one thing: During his tenure as winemaker at J. no problem. Christian Moreau has been there.” 104 WINE SPECTATOR • SEPT.S. Burgundy barrels Fabien is happy with the domaine as it is. 2 to 5 years old. “From Fabien it passes compatible with Chablis. Indigenous yeast and judicious use of oak give the wines more people that can invest millions. has introduced the use of oak for several of their wines. ‘I don’t want to go to school. which see maximum 3 percent new oak. Quality always survives. done that.25-acre parcel. to his two kids. the spirit of the family do- “There’s one thing we cannot forget.” he would joke. but you have Chardonnay everywhere in the that do the alcoholic fermentation—one starts. “There are about four or five yeasts is a Chardonnay. even if it bears the name. but who will be there? Finance acter.” Clos.

.

.

New start-ups are every.” Sonoma Coast Three Sisters Vineyard.winespectator. 2013s (106 outstanding). Groove In the California Pinot Noir gains momentum and builds on its strengths in 2014 By James Laube Pisoni Vineyards in Monterey’s Santa Lucia Highlands was first planted to Pinot Noir in 1982 and is now a leading site for the grape. such as Carter’s Ancillary label. Also in the mix are they are more fraternal than identical. During this period I blind-tasted around identified itself as a variety that works remarkably well in several 240 2014s (with 96 rating outstanding). armed with money and marketing Dehlinger Russian River Valley Altamont ($60) and Donum SEPT. Cirq Russian River Valley Bootleggers’ Hill ($125). $75). comes from 2010 (96. Everything seems to be going its way as it builds contributing layers of intrigue and creating a snowball effect. My highest-scoring wine. views of more than 630 Pinots tasted since my last story (“The Art winemaker for his family’s Santa Lucia Highlands winery. Both produced a bevy of ex- Napa Valley Cabernet producers.) closer to the Pacific. 30. 30. (A free alphabetical list of scores and prices for all wines tasted is where. All of this expansion is adding excitement to the Pinot scene. 2015). on a decade of consistent success. That being said. Four 2013s reached 95 points: Boars’ View Sonoma Hall’s Walt and Schrader’s Boars’ View. which have been among Coast ($125).” says Jeff Pisoni. the most aggressive new players. But he and others may be surprised.com/093016. “It has of Pinot. clout. though smallest of parcels and unlikeliest of locales. What’s becoming more apparent with each year is the high level “Pinot Noir has evolved well beyond the point of of quality and the diversification of styles. This report includes re- being a popular—or new or novelty—variety. Producers in Sonoma and Santa Barbara are inching ever available at www. 2016 • WINE SPECTATOR 107 . C alifornia Pinot Noir is enjoying a harmonic conver. along with roughly 370 parts of the state. ceptional wines.” Sept. the Marcassin panding into many new regions or with a lot of new plantings. as well as venturing deeper inland into the The twin vintages of 2013 and 2014 overlap in the market. I don’t foresee it growing or ex. gence.

quiet beauty [of the ’14s]. The most Santa rather new. quiet beauty [of the ’14s]. vintners said. In Crown Vineyard ($59). with nervy ram Sac are subtle. of them from Sonoma. both from similar to 2004. Dehlinger. vintners say. Kanzler. trump the land. “Don’t underestimate the and Wren Hop. with larger berry size despite TAHOE tures. Major Pinot Noir such as Arista. with SAN FRANCISCO and delicate oak. lands Sierra Mar ($75). In the end. California Pinot Noirs “are becoming more of nJ oa qu linger. “There’s a bubble. of success. Domaine Della. Al- eral special bottlings to showcase the year and our site. similar to 2004. Vin.” says Anne Moller-Racke of Donum. Browne says. precocious and charming. a hierarchy of too tannic to drink early. as well as cooperage. with wines to A cellar and drink now. Dehlinger is overhauling whole parcels. site remained the LOS ANGELES of founder Tom Dehlinger.” ticing menu. more development because Anne Moller-Racke’s Donum Estate sources Pinot Noir from four vineyards spread across Carneros. most Pisoni. their wines. Kis- [the grapes] had more devel. Ferren. Yields in 2014 were higher than in Sonoma LAKE acidity.” though most Pinot plantings are still The 2015 crop is a different story entirely. The berries looked like “Pi- The mix of years. er BAY Sa the 2012s in their suppleness. than usual.” Anderson place but also balance. Loring. They lar level of concentration but include Aubert. and 2015. Cirq. Walt Moller-Racke adds. winemaker for her family’s label. These “Vintages are always very ings. wines that tasted “like a bowl port offers consumers an en. wines have power and elegance. Still more rely on finesse and feature supple tex- 2013. “Don’t underestimate the most important determinant When it comes to 2014s. Kosta —Anne Moller-Racke. Sa a vibrant and intense character. Other worthy mentions include not really showing how nice they were until later A. Barbara severe year of the long-term drought affecting Califor. Rochioli. tler. But the Rochioli’s Russian River Val. 30. site dictates overall quality. Donum winery means the hand can Browne’s California-desig. seven earned 94-point rat. nia led to swings in vineyard health. really firm—almost new brands. even as some are richer and ento Valley The differences between the two vintages riper. with firm pearance of many tannins. tonnage and wine a sign that the Pinot industry continues MARGO MORITZ N quality. Pisoni The 2013s “were a little slow to develop in barrel. Eva Dehlinger. the character of Vintners are putting a fine sheen on the vintage was strong enough that we created sev.” Winemak- nated 4-Barrel ($125) and ers select clones and harvest Santa Lucia Highlands dates and determine ripeness Rosella’s Vineyard ($90).” says Eva Deh. vintners played the hands they were 0 miles 100 to evolve. a few are showing their age. Kosta Browne. vineyards not Noir caviar. opment in the vineyard. Sojourn and Siduri. and Paul Hobbs.” says Michael bow ($60) and Mononi Browne of Kosta Browne and Vineyard ($75). the depth Walt’s Santa Lucia High.Carneros West Slope ($90). ripe red and dark berry. Donum. “What you do in the Russian River Valley. Marcassin.” says producers is emerging. It adjusts or compensates for journ’s Sonoma Coast Gap’s variations in weather.” Peter Michael. fter a decade of “I thought ’13 was a wine growth and the ap- you can hold on to. “ The ’14s had a simi. “In their place. including Arista’s Long.” r 2012 and 2011.P. The range of flavors extends from savory herb to Carneros the drought. in Riv MONTEREY some ways the 2014s are more reminiscent of an upswing where you grow it. The 2014s are more accessible. Occidental (owned by Stephen Kistler). ley River Block ($86). Boars’ ward.Russian River Valley and Anderson Valley. 2016 . rich and for. of the drought took hold. Districts View. exciting. These wines have The best of these wines share not only a sense of r Rive power and elegance. At Dehlinger. the daughter dealt: Though heat and rain were factors.” explains Browne. starting in the vineyard. others trimmer and more elegant.” Cirq. A release from 2013 is one of this report’s top wines. I think of the The vines are growing slowly and the vine age lin as Santa Lucia Ri Highlands ve 2013s as being more textured than both the is also helping. has turned 108 WINE SPECTATOR • SEPT.” leading to and styles covered in this re. California’s Also of note are new arrivals and turnarounds. often with floral arrangements “The wines from the vintage are strong. how you grow it. Roar. So. of crushed berries.

slow to Drink or hold open and ageworthy 2012 89 87 85 91 90 Record-size crop with atypically tannic wines. Drink or hold best in Santa Lucia Highlands 2011 86 87 87 93 87 Rain wreaked havoc at harvest. removing old roots and mixing the soil. yet vintage is strong. offers a slew of Looking at a map of California. This rejuvenation sets the stage for a new tier of wines that will define the next generation for the producer. more wine in the market. volume for the best wines is usually in the range of 100 to 500 cases. The young vines are making a very potent and powerful wine. Santa Ynez Valley and Edna Valley AVAs **Sonoma includes Russian River Valley. polished. Green Valley and the Fort Ross-Seaview AVAs A score range indicates preliminary analysis based on a limited sampling. That this evolu- region in a blind tasting you’ll be surprised by how comparable they tion is happening on such a large scale is cause for excitement. SEPT. Sonoma Mountain. be richer. NR. the very best wines are often sold Most California Pinot Noir production takes place in areas close directly from winery to consumer. with scores of ripe. not recommended. By means of comparison. along with our established des. 75–79. So that’s something to look forward to. she plowed 4 feet deep. 30. forward and Drink or hold showy wines. Russian River resist bottling some separately to showcase what Valley and Santa Lucia Highlands. “hold” means most of the ageworthy wines have yet to fully mature. limiting the supply.” To prepare for the newer plantings. to the present. resulting in lighter wines Drink or hold of uneven quality 2010 88 88 94 92 94 Weather extremes tested growers. The approach has been successful. Senior editor James Laube is Wine Spectator’s lead taster on California What sets California Pinot Noir apart from its peers is price. distinctive wines are coming off these vines. Drink or hold with structured wines 2009 92 91 90 94 97 Almost perfect. For years. “[It] refers to rebirth and re- newal—obviously a meaningful concept for some- one replanting vines put in by their father over 40 years ago. California. 80–84. irregular quality and odd clones held the Pinot Noir is famous for being difficult to grow and vinify. Vineyards planted in what ended up being less desir. Sonoma Valley. and wines back. One new Dehlinger Pinot Noir.” are inching ever higher. with lots of density and personality. 2016 • WINE SPECTATOR 109 .” Eva Dehlinger says. “We followed the plowing with several years of fal- low to rejuvenate the earth. are. deeply Drink flavored wines 2008 80 90 89 90 89 Uneven year. and Oregon’s top wines ignates of Champ de Mars and High Plains. But if you put Pinots from each they transform into elegant. fruitier and sometimes oakier than those grown in Although the wines can begin bold and flashy. not rated Drinkability: “NYR” means most of the wines of the vintage are yet to be released. and we have recently started to produce crops from these younger plantings. Two of the producer’s 2014 Pinots are among the elite in this report. fuller. Pinot Noir. very good. the differences become even more nuanced. Burgundy and New Zealand. TASTING REPORT | CALIFORNIA PINOT NOIR over an original 40-year-old vineyard with a massive replanting. Santa Maria Valley. outstanding. 50–74. 90–94. with fleshy. Sta. Still. top wines are complex and delicate Drink *Santa Barbara includes Santa Barbara. Pinots from the state tend to The next test for California Pinot Noir will be in how it ages. “drink” means most of the wines of the vintage are ready to drink. We couldn’t Kosta Browne cellar master Julien Howsepian works with grapes drawn from Sonoma Coast. many approachable now 2013 87 88 86 94 91 Another huge crop of generally high quality. mediocre. Burgundies of note are the most expensive. within a year or so Oregon. able areas have been abandoned for more ideal venues. With age. is sourced from the sections of the ranch undergo- ing redevelopment. good. Sonoma Coast. many wines of the vintage not yet reviewed. 85–89. Rating California Pinot Noir Vintages in Major Regions Santa Anderson Santa Lucia Valley Carneros Barbara* Highlands Sonoma** 2014 88 88 89 93 92 Even higher yields than 2013. the state’s diversity of coastal wines in the $25-to-$40 range—more in line with what you’ll pay valleys and appellations offers a road map that leads from the past for a New Zealand import. “The term is of Latin origin. meanwhile. Rita Hills. TROYCE HOFFMAN Vintage ratings: 95–100. classic. delicate renditions. called Renatus. as a string of superior years puts to more beneficent sites has proven pivotal. to the coast. The move That makes vintages important.

ASTON Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast 2013 93 $65 BOARS’ VIEW Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast 2013 95 $125 Well-proportioned. FRANCIS FORD COPPOLA Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast 88 $21 KOSTA BROWNE Pinot Noir California 4-Barrel 2014 94 $125 Director’s 2014 Offers amazing aromas of wild berry.and herb-scented dried berry and cedar flavors. Remarkably charming. earth and cedar flavors. this casts a wide net of red and dark fruit. TOP VALUES WINE SCORE PRICE AUBERT Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast UV-SL Vineyard 2013 94 $120 Offers a racy. rich and assertive. toasty oak. black cherry and wild berry. with tight acidity and firm focus. An abundance of cherry fruit lends elegance and finesse. highlighted by blueberry. FERREN Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast Silver Eagle Vineyard 2013 94 $75 Offers smoky. Clean. raspberry and blackberry.com/093016. anise and subtle earth. and fresh. with plump plum. smoke. persistent and lingering. ARISTA Pinot Noir Russian River Valley Longbow 2014 94 $60 Impressive. with a supple. raspberry and strawberry. with depth and purity of flavors built around blackberry. berry and blackberry flavors that gain depth and remain expansive. with lively acidity and a tight. 110 WINE SPECTATOR • SEPT. CIRQ Pinot Noir Russian River Valley Treehouse 2013 94 $125 Combining power and finesse. this firmly tannic A thrilling expression of charming elegance. MARCASSIN Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast Marcassin Vineyard 2010 94 $150 LAETITIA Pinot Noir Arroyo Grande Valley 2014 88 $25 Moderately rich and fleshy in texture. black tea and wild berry flavors traction. with plum. Dense and structured. black licorice. with detailed blackberry. Bold. with a dense core of dark berry. this gushes with zesty wild raspberry.com members can access complete reviews for all wines tasted using the online Wine Ratings search. Elegant and refined without sacrificing flavor. Strikingly rich and complex. depth or persistence. A free alphabetical list is available at www. Offers aromas of wilted rose. with aromatic rose petal aromas. Medium-weight cherry and berry flavors are spicy and enjoyable. Strikingly youthful and vibrant. toasty oak. offering depth and richness. Presents a rich. delivering elegant plum and wild berry flavors. ing. zesty expression of spicy raspberry and wild berry fruit CHALONE Pinot Noir Chalone Gavilan 2013 90 $22 that’s pleasantly ripe and juicy. unctuous core of fresh earth and herbs. spice. EDNA VALLEY Pinot Noir Central Coast 2014 88 $17 KOSTA BROWNE Pinot Noir Santa Lucia Highlands 94 $90 Blueberry and spicy notes fold in amid the charry. wild berry. Charm- with black cherry flavors at the core. loamy earth. Offers a mix of zesty red berry and creamy oak flavors. WineSpectator. this offers excellent density and depth. ripe plum and blueberry flavors. toasty oak. with fine-grained tannic grip. cherry blossom and rose petal. WREN HOP Pinot Noir Sta. anise. with a mix of herb. Lightly aromatic. raspberry and blueberry. accented by heady floral rose petal scents. refined style that captures suppleness and finesse. ARISTA Pinot Noir Russian River Valley Mononi Vineyard 2014 94 $75 Exhibits dusty. black lic- orice. cedar. MEIOMI Pinot Noir Monterey-Sonoma-Santa Barbara 88 $25 The anise-laced cherry and raspberry notes are supple and caressing. rasp. featuring touches of black licorice. PAUL HOBBS Pinot Noir Russian River Valley Cuvée 94 $135 Agustina Katherine Lindsay Estate 2013 CASTLE ROCK Pinot Noir California California Cuvée 2013 88 $12 Broad and rich. with touches of charcoal and vanilla bean. Rita Hills Architects & Saboteurs 2013 93 $78 plum. Offers plum. dense core of anise. 30. this could use a year or so to soften. Counties 2014 SOJOURN Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast Gap’s Crown Vineyard 2014 94 $59 Offers a rich candied-apple mix of red and dark berry fruit. this is rich and extracted. blackberry and blueberry flavors. ultrarich and graceful. savory herb details and cedar-laced tannins that give the plum. wild berry. Features earth. brush. A graceful. Rosella’s Vineyard 2014 A gorgeous version. raspberry and Vineyard Cuvée Catherine 2012 cherry flavors. MACMURRAY RANCH Pinot Noir Central Coast 2013 88 $23 ROCHIOLI Pinot Noir Russian River Valley River Block 2014 94 $86 Fresh and vibrant. with a texture that highlights the strength of the tannins. raspberry and boysenberry flavors. Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast Riviera 2013 90 $22 yet gutsy core of mineral-laced tannins. blackberry and savory underbrush notes. RON RUBIN Pinot Noir Russian River Valley 2013 89 $25 wrapped around a tight mix of raspberry. smoke and rasp- berry. spice. sage and under. plum. PETER MICHAEL Pinot Noir Santa Lucia Highlands Le Moulin 93 $100 DEHLINGER Pinot Noir Russian River Valley Altamont 2013 95 $60 Rouge 2014 A seamless expression of juicy plum. with tiers of blueberry. TOP WINES TOP WINES (continued) WINE SCORE PRICE WINE SCORE PRICE MARCASSIN Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast Three Sisters 96 $75 WALT Pinot Noir Santa Lucia Highlands Sierra Mar 2014 94 $75 Vineyard 2010 Maintains a graceful balance and presence. Offering gorgeous floral scents of lavender. with a firm yet delicate mix of spicy rasp- berry and red berry that is well-focused. mocha. CALERA Pinot Noir Mount Harlan Jensen Vineyard 2013 93 $88 CIRQ Pinot Noir Russian River Valley Bootlegger’s Hill 2013 95 $125 Dense.and cedar-laced dark berry. with a supple PALI WINE CO. revealing rose. nutmeg and cedar notes.winespectator. 2016 . but rich and layered. DONUM Pinot Noir Carneros West Slope 2013 95 $90 OCCIDENTAL Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast Occidental Station 93 $100 Exhibits a gorgeous core of rich blackberry. shaded by smoky. fresh and vibrant. this captures moderately version shows a sense of elegance and suppleness. along with a raspberry. strong dose of oak. anise and spice scents. black HAHN Pinot Noir Monterey County 2014 88 $14 cherry and wild berry flavors imparting mouthwatering juiciness. raspberry and blackberry.TASTING REPORT | CALIFORNIA PINOT NOIR James Laube’s Recommended California Pinot Noirs More than 630 wines were reviewed for this report. silky texture amid gravelly earth details.

.

.

The dream came to a screeching halt. 800 feet down the hillside on an tains. As the region to Pinot Noir. their children. their father.800 cases The sons took a temporary hiatus. says Jake. Fetzer founded the winery as a trib. “It gle Peak AVA. which was approved was kind of alluring. planted to Toro). determining the final blend. had planted grapes Brothers Ben (left) and Jake Fetzer started Masút as a tribute to their father. Sheila. 34. Bobby Fetzer.” was the green thumb of a family The brothers converted an old that came to embody Mendocino barn into a winery. the vision.” says Jake. seeking advice from Pinot Eagle Peak appellation maven Greg La Follette. their family founded Fetzer Vine. a child. “I always wanted to be in the headed a petition to create an Ea- family business. where winery side of things day to day. Bobby bought land adjacent east-facing slope. Bobby established a cattle a mix of heritage and Dijon clones. “You can get a lot more dren. business of winemaking. as the farmer. with Ben. the siblings are forging For years the family sold its grapes and made a little wine. 36. his property to 1. The first stretches across more vintage was a loss after devastating than 26. Bobby. “I feel like there is a sense of responsibility for me to continue the family luvial clay soil. who ent parts of the vineyard. Bobby on tours of Fetzer’s vine- ation vintners who grew up in the yards. It’s di- (it was later sold to Concha y vided into two sections. They also spear- wine. TASTING REPORT | CALIFORNIA PINOT NOIR Reviving a The Fetzer brothers Family Legacy honor their heritage growing Pinot in Eagle Peak By Augustus Weed R ising to 2. he chose Pinot Noir because of the region’s unusual cli. they rekindled their father’s Estate Vineyard 2014 SEPT. breezes and fog through a gap in the coastal range.” Jake and Ben to bottle. he often accompanied The two brothers are third-gener. “The style that we are making is a little more robust.” says Jake. and and soars to 1.000 acres of re. $45) packs in a warmer inland Redwood and Potter valleys. But the following County. year. done as a team.” yards in the 1960s. But in 2006 their own path while honoring their legacy. with Jake guiding the grapes “dark. 50. “I like Eagle Peak acts as a gateway between the foggy coastal regions and the a little bit of tannin and rusticness. lumberman and Jake experimented with differ- Barney Fetzer. with a to distiller Brown-Forman in 1992 smattering of Chardonnay. complexity. In 2008. which is Pomo Indian for Pinot. something you in 2014. The slopes are a stands out. but we wear a lot of the same hats. Now they in the 1950s. With Masút.” of the vineyard to new clones. It’s home to a single winery. ranch. “He was the kind of guy that liked to go against the mold. “I’m more involved in the vineyards of Mendocino. are focused on a single estate wine.” The 2014 bottling (90. Bobby planted 40 acres to vines. blending the sections for additional In 1997.699 feet. 2016 • WINE SPECTATOR 113 . gravelly topsoil that is well-draining. who first planted bor. and they replanted some felt proud of. mate. It draws in cooling ocean tight core of spicy berry and earth. Re. with pockets of deeper al. fanning out to pick up herbal details. drowned in a river-rafting accident. with his sons in high school. Bobby later increased founded Fetzer Vineyards and was among the first in Mendocino to plant Pinot Noir. 90 MASÚT Pinot Noir Eagle Peak $45 1. One of 11 chil. They ferment and barrel the different blocks separately before jecting local advice. Ben Valley. mix of thin.800 feet in elevation. But he yearned to start a The upper portion is dry-farmed vineyard with his wife. wildfires covered the region in mote terrain in northern Mendocino smoke for weeks. 30. where his father. Summer afternoons can The Fetzers plan to bottle individual sections in vintages where the quality be sweltering but once the wind kicks in it doesn’t let up.500 acres. they produced their inaugural Masút. After the Fetzers sold the winery Masút is mostly Pinot Noir. There is a natural division of la- ute to their father. The lower section is larger and sits Turning his gaze to the moun. tragedy struck when Bobby.” Jake explains. rich earth.” says Jake. to the family’s ranch in Redwood For the first few vintages.

.

.

Buying Guide
Spectator Selections
119 Highly Recommended
119 Collectibles
121 Smart Buys
122 Best Values
120 About the Buying Guide

New Wines From
Around The World
122 Argentina, Austria,
Chile
125 France
131 Greece, Israel
133 Italy
136 New Zealand, Portugal
138 South Africa, Spain
141 California
145 Washington

BY THE NUMBERS
The Sept. 30 Buying Guide features 24 classic
wines and more than 425 outstanding wines
from among reviews of nearly 650 new releases.
Members can access tasting notes and scores for
those wines, along with more than 800 additional
wines reviewed since our last issue, using the
Wine Ratings search at WineSpectator.com.
Craggy Range’s Gimblett Gravels vineyards cover 260 acres of this sun-soaked section of New Zealand’s Hawkes Bay.

SEPT. 30, 2016 • WINE SPECTATOR 117

featuring Jonagold apple. 1. 96 Produttori del Barbaresco Barbaresco Asili Riserva 2011 $59 ITALY Intense aromas of cherry. 94 R.—T.S. heather and intense Barbaresco.M. Best from 2018 through 2032. lingering with an aftertaste of pastry. with a buried fresh and vibrant on the long finish. spice and mineral elements on the palate.—B.700 cases imported. juicy finish. Gorgeous from the get-go. featuring notes of creamed melon. Concentrated. with more to give. this is layered with plum. cherry and berry flavors with notes of vanilla. underbrush and mineral. price and availability. cham- the core. rose. SEPT. Ends with a long after- taste of fruit. 200 cases imported.000 cases made. 150 cases made. yet elegant and expressive. inlaid with hints of green tea. 33 cases imported. The structure is assertive. white Concentrated. 300 cases imported. cherry and currant fruit weaves throughout this elegant. from 2017 through 2022. The finish is racy and tightly coiled. revealing a strong and persistent iron accent. Shows great presence and bottle age and that show the greatest potential to depth. 1.—B. yellow apple and persimmon that glide effortlessly.700 cases made. with a core of intense Jonagold apple.—J. quickly followed by a solid core of bitter cherry. 12.S. orange peel and bacon Collectibles flavors that come together harmoniously and extend into Wines that will improve most from additional the long and harmonious finish. through the citrus oil– and mineral-edged finish. 95 Two Vintners Syrah Walla Walla Valley Some Days Are Stones Stoney Vine Vine- yard 2013 $45 WASHINGTON Supple and expressive. Drink now through 2025. carried peach. verbena. derbrush notes add depth. 97 Domaine Huët Vouvray Moelleux Clos du Bourg Première Trie 2015 $70 FRANCE 94 Hamilton Russell Chardonnay Hemel-en- Aarde Valley 2015 $37 SOUTH AFRICA Ripe and rippling with tension. Accents of heather and hazelnut extend slowly omile and persimmon notes. 2016 • WINE SPECTATOR 119 . S P E C TATO R S E L E C T I O N S Highly Recommended The issue’s most impressive wines. Buying Guide cover photograph by Richard Brimer.—J. Best from 2018 through 2040. 60 cases imported. Best from 2018 through 2028. Floral and leafy un. Drink now through 2022. ginger cream and dried quince flavors.M. glazed Bosc pear. mountain herb and mineral. rose petal. Riveting acidity underscores this cellar- worthy version. Light tannins and juicy acidity impart focus. Drink now through 2023.—J.M. 96 Domaine Huët Vouvray Moelleux Le Haut-Lieu Première Trie 2015 $65 FRANCE 93 Marco & Vittorio Adriano Barbaresco Basarin 2012 $27 ITALY Sweet strawberry. 30.—B. Focused and harmonious through the long.110 cases made. mineral edge imparting freshness while the fruit plays out.M. balancing juicy enticing white.S. 95 Philippe Colin Chevalier-Montrachet 2014 $213 FRANCE A whiff of seashore complements the peach.—H.S. this red shows good depth. yet this stays quince.M. red currant and damson plum fruit. licorice and tar pick up tobacco. verbena. gain in value. Best Best from 2018 through 2040. lemon and toasty baking spice flavors in this 93 Álvaro Palacios Priorat Les Terrasses Velles Vinyes 2014 $40 SPAIN Graceful and harmonious. mirabelle plum and honeysuckle notes coiled at by filigreed acidity and backed by green tea. The long finish has beautiful flow. Rostaing Côte-Rôtie Côte Blonde 2013 $190 FRANCE Gorgeous white pepper and savory notes leap out. Best from 2018 through 2030. The finish is extremely long. Includes top-scorers and wines that represent optimal purchases based on their combination of score.—J. 2.

under controlled conditions. Washington The long finish shows tangy cut and flecks of pepper as Thomas Matthews Spain all the elements pull together. appellation or region. Champagne. Rostaing Côte-Rôtie La Landonne 2013 $175 FRANCE Solid.—A. 95–100 Classic: a great wine 90–94 Outstanding: a wine of superior character and style 85–89 Very good: a wine with special qualities 80–84 Good: a solid. The categories are described below. crystallized honey and candied kumquat. A tangy iron edge drives the finish. Portugal Bruce Sanderson Burgundy. modest prices and wide distribution. 30. Harvey Steiman Oregon. We retaste many wines to confirm impressions. Smart Buys: Wines that deliver fine character at affordable prices and that are broadly available. Each tasting begins with a wine previously rated. Austria. in flights organized by varietal. Shows good range Notes and ratings are entered directly into our database prior to the removal of the bags.N. A typical tasting-session consists of 20 to 30 wines. Best Values: Wines with solid scores. Italy James Molesworth Bordeaux. with a bay leaf and olive streak piercing the core of dark cherry and steeped plum blind tasting to ensure consistency. Highly Recommended: The issue’s most impressive wines. All tastings are conducted in private. California. Labels and Photographs Each issue.M. currant preserves and cherry paste melded with James Laube California dried bay leaf. called Spectator Selections. with a chalky underpinning and a lovely. New Zealand Alison Napjus Alsace. 500 cases imported. audience. raw almond. Beaujolais. Price is not taken into account. Tasters are told only the general type of wine (varietal or region) and the vintage. Additional reviews appear on our website. 2016 .S. explained below). Best from 2017 through 2027. satiny finish. with a juniper sessions per day. imported. well-made wine 75–79 Mediocre: a drinkable wine that may have minor flaws 50–74 Not recommended 120 WINE SPECTATOR • SEPT. fleur de sel and star anise. Rostaing Côte-Rôtie Côte Brune 2013 $190 FRANCE Alluring. but the score is never changed. Actual retail prices may vary.—J. the wine was tasted by a panel of Wine Spectator editors. Wines are chosen for tasting from among those sent to our offices for review and those purchased at retail. based on the regional specializations indicated below. dark olive and smoldering charcoal notes. always in subsequent blind tastings. Other already-rated wines are inserted into the 94 R. Italy Tim Fish California Gillian Sciaretta France How We Do the Tastings Wine Spectator editors taste approximately 20. the tasting note describes the wine’s style and character. presenting these producers in a more personal way. along with their labels. notes for wines scoring 84 points or less are included at the discretion of the taster. we prefer to review wines that are widely available there. If no reviewer’s initials appear. Mouthwatering.000 wines each year. Loire Valley. About the 100-Point Scale Drink now through 2026.—J. Featured Wines: Spectator Selections. selected reviews throughout the Buying Guide include a photograph of a winery principal. they are highlighted in the first pages of this Buying Guide. www. Ratings reflect how highly our editors regard each wine relative to other wines in its category and are based on potential quality—how good the wine will be when at its peak. In addition. dried apricot. About Prices and Wines Tasted Prices shown reflect the suggested retail price. 33 cases imported. with a maximum of two fruit. Chile. Calif. Wines are tasted in our offices in New York and Napa. Includes top-scorers and wines that represent optimal purchases based on their combination of score. rich plum. 94 R. Each review carries the initials of the Wine Spectator editor who blind-tasted and scored the wine and wrote the review. we publish the 94 Salon Brut Blanc de Blancs Champagne Le Mesnil 2004 $520 FRANCE This elegant Champagne features ripe.com. South Africa MaryAnn Worobiec Australia. Best from 2017 through 2028. Bottles are bagged and coded. Additional comments and definition. echo checking in at the very end. Rhône Valley. Tastings are also conducted on location in various European winegrowing regions. Germany. giving way on the creamy palate to more subtle notes of Because we for the most part serve a U. our editors choose wines with special qualities. Complete tasting notes are provided for all new releases scoring 85 or more points (on the Wine Spectator 100-point scale.winespectator. When the suggested retail price is not available. Spectator SelectionS: Collectibles About the Buying Guide T his Buying Guide contains ratings of new releases from around the world and the results of special tastings reported on in greater depth elsewhere in the issue. Collectibles: Wines that will improve most from additional bottle age and that show the greatest potential to gain in value. Wines are always tasted blind. All labels and images are chosen by Wine Spectator for editorial purposes only and do not represesent any commercial transaction between Wine Spectator and the producers whose wines are featured. price and availability.M. Kim Marcus Argentina. The score summarizes a wine’s overall quality. with flavors of dark. up-front aromas and flavors of prevailing wholesale price with a standard markup added. which is tasted non-blind as a reference point. 50 cases may be added to a note after the identity of the wine is revealed.

90 Chalone Pinot Noir Chalone Gavilan 2013 $22 CALIFORNIA Strikingly rich and complex. where members can search by winery.000 cases imported. region. with a savory element kicking in as this lingers.winespectator.S. use WineSpectator . A textbook version. with thyme.—J. juicy finish.800 cases imported. tangerine and ginger add complexity. vintage.S.000 cases made. with concentrated. peach and quince flavors mingle in this expressive white. 1.000 cases made. 22. with a dense core of dark berry.—J. easing up on the finish.844 cases imported.—B. Riserva 2013 $25 ITALY Pure cherry takes Cabernet Sauvignon. with a lingering aftertaste. blackberry and roasted plum.M. Drink now through 2017. tobacco and mineral vese. showing fine intensity and equilibrium. cases made.M. mouthwatering cut. 2016 • WINE SPECTATOR 121 .CO M RIEDEL.—T. variety. Find it at www. Merlot. Drink now through 2022. price and score.COM For more than 342. elements.000 wine ratings. 30. well-spiced flavors of dried blueberry. Spectator SelectionS: Smart Buys Smart Buys Wines that deliver fine character at affordable prices and that are broadly available. 90 Concha y Toro Carmenère Peumo Marqués de Casa Concha 2014 $26 CHILE A suave and plush red. earth.900 2014 $24 FRANCE Bright and pure. 17. Elegant 91 Castello di Monsanto Chianti Classico overall.com/wine.—K. Drink now.com’s Wine Ratings search. revealing a moderately firm structure for support. gooseberry and white peach notes racing along. W I N E S P E C TATO R . with a clean. wine name. Vivid and elegant. HAND-MADE MOUTH-BLOWN IN AUSTRIA 90 Marchesi de’ Frescobaldi Toscana Tenuta di Castiglioni 2013 $25 ITALY Bright cherry fruit leads the way. 6. Drink now through 2020. SEPT. framed by tar. carried by a long. black licorice. 25.L. flinty finish. earth and cedar flavors that hold their own. accented by notes of earth and spice. Cabernet Franc and Sangio- center stage. Shows depth and focus. Shows lovely. Drink now. 91 Bodegas Godeval Valdeorras Viña Godeval Cepas Vellas 2014 $20 SPAIN Pear.M. Drink now through 2019. Minerally midpalate.—B. while notes of mineral. 1. followed by a finish of mocha and 91 Régis Minet Pouilly-Fumé Vieilles Vignes dried green herbal notes.

500 cases made. with fine cut defined by firm acidity. Shiraz. 50. presenting a long. but balanced.M. showing green herbal accents. Olive and mineral accents show on the finish.000 cases imported. picking up gooseberry. Drink now through 90 Viña Cobos Cabernet Sauvignon Luján de Cuyo Bramare 2013 $42 A ripe and plush red. Drink now through 2018.M. Mourvèdre. revealing lin- gering blackberry accents. Drink now through 2017.—K.100 cases imported. Not a big wine.—T. fleur de sel. 1. 900 cases imported.500 cases imported. Cocoa powder accents enliven the spicy and fresh finish. 88 Valentín Bianchi Cabernet Sauvignon San Rafael-Argentina Finca Los Primos 2015 $12 ARGENTINA A juicy style. New Wines From Around the World 88 Viña Santa Carolina Cabernet Sauvignon Colchagua Valley Reserva 2014 $11 CHILE Zesty. The richly spiced finish is loaded with molten chocolate accents. 3. and mineral impart a savory aspect. powerful and lavishly spiced flavors of blackberry. Drink now through 2020. roasted plum and currant. Dark chocolate and savory spice details on the finish are supported by firm tannins.M. dark cherry and dried black- berry flavors that feature a creamy texture. rich and ripe red. firm tannins and orange peel acidity. Syrah. this shows finely meshed flavors of pear. 90 Jean Perrier & Fils Savoie Apremont Cuvée Gastronomie 2015 $16 FRANCE Yellow apple. modest prices and wide distribution.M. 92 Viña Cobos Malbec Uco Valley Bramare 2013 $45 Concentrated and rich. Drink now through 2018.M.—K.—K. with dense. Very refresh- ing.M. 90 Southern Right Sauvignon Blanc Walker Bay 2015 $19 SOUTH AFRICA Juicy and well- built.000 cases made. a deep well of roasted plum. 5.—K.000 cases imported.—A.—K. with red plum and boysen- berry flavors that feature notes of hot stone. Drink now through 2019. 30. Petite Sirah. Drink now dried cherry. Drink now through 2019. Drink now. Spectator SelectionS: Smart Buys / Best Values / New Releases: Argentina Best Values Wines with solid scores. 122 WINE SPECTATOR • SEPT.N. rich through 2021.—J. with notes of black ol- ive and tarragon. Best after 2019. with light. Drink now through 2021.M. 9. 40.500 cases imported. tobacco. 5.—K. Tempranillo and Cabernet Sauvignon. Creamy midpalate.—J. with dried green herbal notes to the fresh red plum ARGENTINA 93 90 Trimbach Riesling Alsace 2014 $22 FRANCE A creamy white. with a solid core of lemon zest and pith notes stretch- ing out through the finish. Cinsault and Carignan. svelte structure and rich flavors of hot stone. 91 Viña Cobos Malbec Luján de Cuyo Bramare with licorice snap notes. The creamy finish is filled with Asian spice and minerally notes. Shows modest toast through the 2013 $45 A savory and finely textured red.—K.M.500 cases imported. Not big.M.—J.—J.000 cases made. and berry flavors. 2016 . with a 90 Finca Villacreces Ribera del Duero Pruno 2014 $20 SPAIN Plum and boysenberry flavors are ripe and juicy in this plump red. 3. 600 cases made.—T. Notes of tar juicy finish. jicama and verbena accents. forest floor and smoke flavors. 92 Cheval des Andes Mendoza 2012 $99 A dense.000 cases made. but offers lovely cut and purity. Crisp and minerally on the finish. 25. 30. dark plum and smoke. Drink now through 2018. grippy red.000 cases made. while lively floral and quinine accents stretch out the fin- ish. 87 Vicente Gandía Utiel-Requena Hoya de Cadenas Reserva Privada 2012 $10 SPAIN This lean red offers dried cherry. Grenache. fennel and lemon zest notes form the core. with ripe cherry pie and plum pâte de fruit flavors. while firm tannins and orange peel acidity lend focus.M. with dark plum and boysenberry fruit lined through 2020. Drink now 87 Boekenhoutskloof The Wolftrap Red Western Cape 2015 $12 SOUTH AFRICA Ripe and focused. finish filled with pepper and cocoa powder notes. with well-structured flavors of dark cherry. plum and chocolate. 17. Mourvèdre and Viognier.M. with 2024.500 cases made.M. dried raspberry and cedar. 1. lined with subtle vanilla and anise notes and followed by a juicy finish. Cuvelier Los Andes Grand Malbec Uco Val- ley 2012 $60 A big.M. 86 Fairview Goats do Roam Red Western Cape 2015 $10 SOUTH AFRICA Direct. anise and lemon meringue. Drink now. featuring flavors of dark cherry.

000 cases cases imported. Spicy Ripe. with white chocolate and savory herbal notes. Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah. through 2019.M. featuring notes of angel food cake $20 Pure and crisp.—K.—K. offering impressive structure. Drink now through 2019.—K. 30. pear and melon flavors. 25 cases imported.200 cases made. Drink now through 2021. Drink now through 2021. 45 cases imported. Seleccion de la Finca de Roberto Azaretto 2015 $16 Off-dry. with creamy Trocken Wachau Axpoint 2014 $50 Unctuous. cents. apple and lemon curd fla- notes. supported by medium. with crisp Gala apple and white with bittersweet chocolate details. 1.—K. lemon meringue and apple tart fla- luscious flavors of plum. wein Trocken Wachau Kellerberg 2014 $55 Plush. Key lime pie and peach powerfully spiced flavors of dried berry. Lemon curd and chamomile details show on 87 Valentín Bianchi Malbec San Rafael-Argen. Drink now through 2020. with apple tart.000 cases made. Drink now made.—K.X. Drink now. 87 Finca Flichman Malbec Mendoza Reserva 90 Birgit Eichinger Grüner Veltliner Qualitäts- 2015 $15 Taut yet juicy. Malbec. Pichler Grüner Veltliner Smaragd Trocken Wachau Dürnsteiner Liebenberg 2014 $62 Uco Valley 2013 $20 Savory and full of rich and Juicy and rich. Drink now. The savory finish has firm featuring a finish that echoes with smoke and spice ac- tannins.—K. offers slate and dried sage accents.—K. accented by 70. 3. rich cobbler. 93 F.X. pineapple.—K. with luscious white chocolate and spice notes to the finish. focused fin. 87 Viña Cobos Malbec Mendoza Felino 2014 with a distinctive vein of mocha running through the fla- vors of baked pineapple and ripe peach. 20.776 cases notes linger on the spicy and fresh finish. powerful finish. 2022. roasted plum and cobbler flavors that feature notes of white pepper and pas- slate. Very svelte. Drink now through 2019. ish is filled with chocolate mousse accents. Drink now through ing notes of slate and mocha.—K. Lemon drop and crunchy. Bonarda.000 cases made. with plum and raspberry flavors accented by powerful and savory white. apple and guava.000 cases imported. Lentil accents show midpal- ate.815 cases made. Drink now through 2022. with red currant.M. ALEJANDRO NESMAN Winemaker 93 F.M. AUSTRIA 90 Finca Flichman Dedicado Mendoza 2014 95 Franz Hirtzberger Grüner Veltliner Smaragd $40 Savory. ripe pineapple.X.M. Very creamy midpalate. Chocolate mousse accents show on the finish.—K. Drink now through 2020. 2016 • WINE SPECTATOR 123 .M. with fresh minerality to 90 Piattelli Malbec Luján de Cuyo Grand the well-spiced flavors of apple tart. The rich finish is grained tannins. with flavors of plum. baked pear and peach Reserve 2013 $22 Well-structured. Drink now.—K. with a fresh. 16. Merlot and Syrah. Drink now.X. supported by lively acidity. Veltliner Qualitätswein Trocken 87 Alamos Red Blend Mendoza 2014 $13 Kamptal Hasel 2015 $17 A A juicy red. of. with a finish that lingers accented by notes of hot stone. 50. supported by vibrant acidity. 4. featuring a finish flooded now. the finish. cherry tart and dark currant. SEPT. peach. Shows a sinewy texture with flan and cocoa details. Savory midpalate. Owner & Winemaker with roasted plum and cherry tart flavors. Pichler Grüner Veltliner Smaragd Reserve 2014 $17 This features some peppery notes Trocken Wachau Loibner Steinertal 2014 $57 to the red plum and boysenberry flavors. Pure and and Asian spice notes fill the ripe. 1. apple and bec.—K.M. 90 Piattelli Malbec Cafayate Valley Grand Reserve 2014 $22 94 Franz Hirtzberger Grüner Veltliner Smaragd Rich and well-spiced. Drink now through erfully spicy finish. with a complex and luscious array of fering a long and richly spiced finish filled with minerally richly spiced peach. Dark chocolate filled with honeysuckle and lemon cream notes. page 122. centrated green peach. Cabernet Sauvignon. imported.—K.000 cases imported. Very minerally. The spicy finish is fresh peach flavors.000 cases made. with peach and apricot flavors on a light frame.M.M.M. 20. with engaging floral 2015 $10 A plummy and supple red. Honey and spice details fill the finish. with con- notes of hot stone.M. Drink now through 2018.M. 25 on the finish. cherry tart and seductive minerality and spiciness to the flavors of roasted blackberry. try. plum tart and dried rasp. Supple and spicy on the finish.M. featur. Drink now. Shows alluring minerality.M. 120. The spicy finish has some savory 91 Pichler-Krutzler Grüner Veltliner Qualitäts- herbal hints.—K. 60 cases imported. accented by notes of juniper berry. with a finish that lingers with light smoke and spice 87 Ricardo Santos Sémillon Mendoza Una hints.M. imported.M. show on the finish.M. lengthening out Minerally and peppery.000 cases made. dried cherry and boysenberry. Drink now through 2025. accented by floral notes. 89 Piattelli Malbec Luján de Cuyo Premium 92 F. featuring a crunchy finish that flavors of ripe plum. 30 cases imported. $23 Taut. Malbec. 88 Valentín Bianchi Cabernet Sauvignon San Rafael-Argentina Finca Los Primos 2015 $12 See 91 Birgit Eichinger Grüner Best Values. 89 Cuvelier Los Andes Cabernet Sauvignon 92 F.—K. Drink now.—K. BIRGIT EICHINGER tina Finca Los Primos 2015 $12 Moderately ripe. vors. Trocken Wachau Honivogl 2014 $80 This sings berry flavors.—K. Pichler Grüner Veltliner Smaragd Trocken Wachau Dürnsteiner Kellerberg 2014 $85 An elegant and creamy white.—K.—K.M. Petit Verdot. 20 cases imported. Spicy and rich midpalate.M.—K. New Releases: Argentina / Austria 90 Cuvelier Los Andes Grand Vin Uco Valley 86 Finca Flichman Malbec Mendoza Misterio 2010 $35 A rich and juicy red.M. Drink vors. with piney and white pepper wein Trocken Kamptal Wechselberg 2015 $22 notes to the cherry tart and boysenberry flavors. cherry tart and dried rasp. apple. Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah. showing hints of dried beef to the to the peach cobbler. white cherry flavors. across the palate.M. Pichler Grüner Veltliner Smaragd Trocken Wachau Loibner Loibenberg 2014 $57 89 Alamos Malbec Mendoza Selección 2014 Luscious and creamy. 32.000 cases made.000 cases made. 1. Cocoa powder and allspice accents show on the pow- ish. Drink now through 2019. with dense. tails. accented by white pepper and paprika de. 1. with notes of paprika to the mocha. 30 cases imported. Drink now through 2022. accented by hints of green herb. The lusciously creamy fin. 50 cases 2019. Hints of pepper berry flavors.—K. with notes of notes to the crushed red plum.M. sage and white pepper notes.—K.000 cases made. chocolate and spice that turn creamy. dried cherry and dark plum flavors. Mal. 235 cases imported. dry.M. Drink now through 2020.

accented by and ripe red. from 2017 through 2020.M.—K. with dense. The buttery finish is long and spicy. erally midpalate. Tobacco leaf and chocolate details show on the rich complex midpalate. 2.774 cases made. made. showing some beefy ac. www. with notes of dried green herb. Drink now through 2019. with plenty of dried herbal notes to the rich Deeply colored. Drink now through 2018. Cocoa powder and vanilla accents fill the creamy finish. 89 Apaltagua Cabernet Sauvignon Maipo Valley Signature 2013 $40 Lithe and rich-tasting. & M.M. black olive and pepper. concentrated flavors of dark notes of lemon and lime. accented by lemon curd and and intensely spiced flavors of dark cherry.100 cases made.—K. Drink now through now through 2020.M.M.—K. lively and spicy flavors of dried flavors. Drink now finish. offering well-crafted. sandalwood and red plum. 90 Pfaffl Grüner Veltliner Qualitätswein Trocken 89 Markowitsch Qualitätswein Trocken Carnun. late and mocha notes. 288 cases made. page 122. 605 cases made. Firm tan- apple and ripe lime flavors. juicy finish.disznoko. The firm tannins show some minty creamy finish.—K. 90 Viña Carmen Cabernet Sauvignon Maipo Weinviertel Goldjoch Reserve 2015 $50 Notes of tum Rubin 2014 $19 Peppery notes grace this me. with notes of dried green herbs to the well-spiced flavors of dark plum and cherry tart.—K.360 cases made. with flavors of pear tart. 89 Garcia & Schwaderer Bravado Chile 2014 $20 Offers aromas of fresh-crushed red fruits and flavors of raspberry. apple pastry and al- mond tart notes. mineral dium-bodied red. with accents of tarragon. 90 F. 200 cases on the fresh finish. with a finish that offers hints of licorice and cin- namon. 4. Pichler Grüner Veltliner Federspiel 90 Chateau Los Boldos Cabernet Sauvignon 90 Pfaffl Saint Laurent Qualitätswein Trocken Trocken Wachau Loibner Klostersatz 2014 $37 Alto Cachapoal Grand Reserve 2014 $17 A big Niederösterreich Altenberg Reserve 2013 $32 Crunchy. dried berry and nins show on the finish. red berry A powerful and inky red. Presents vibrant acidity. with intense minerality to the dark $36 A juicy white.X.100 cases made. with zesty flavors of plum. Drink now through 2020. Drink nins on the finish. showing cedar hints on the finish.M.—K. Drink now. revealing plenty of dark choco- sage cream notes. and filled with savory accents. 91 Viña Santa Carolina Carmenère Peumo Trocken Carnuntum 2013 $21 Refined. and currant.—K.—K. matched to bright acidity. Shows plenty of pep.—K. 100 cases cents. Fresh acidity lingers with savory details plum tart.—K.—K. 1. Drink now through 2020. with plenty of creami. Pichler Grüner Veltliner Federspiel 2020. 250 cases imported. leading to an engaging. 455 cases made.M.M. White pepper details linger on the berry.—K.—K. Drink now through 2019. with a rich mix of cherry. Pure and min- of dark currant. tannic finish. page 121.M. with flavors of cherry. Drink now through 2019.M.M. dried cherry and green herbs. which offers juicy flavors of red fruit and dark currant and roasted plum flavors that turn ripe and and apple tart flavors.—K. Drink now through 2019. $35 Intensely juicy. 90 Pfaffl Zweigelt Qualitätswein Trocken 91 De Martino Chardonnay Limarí Valley Niederösterreich Burggarten Reserve 2013 $41 Quebrada Seca Single Vineyard 2014 $45 This is 90 Garcia & Schwaderer Facundo Chile 2012 powerfully fruity and complex.—K. 23. 986 cases made. 150 cases imported.M.M. Leafy notes show on the juicy finish.125 cases made. Medium-grained tannins emerge on the finish. dried blackberry and black olive flavors. with green peach and apple flavors. Sandal. and wild herbs. now through 2019. plum tart and blackberry flavors. revealing hints of licorice on the finish.—K. Shows firm tan- ate. Dried tarragon and cream hints roasted plum and dark cherry flavors. 20 cases imported. with fresh-tasting dried cherry and plum tart flavors. red plum and boysenberry. Minerally midpalate. 90 Viña Santa Carolina Cabernet Sauvignon Trocken Wachau Loibner Frauenweingarten 2014 91 Viña Quebrada de Macul Cabernet Sauvi. featuring concentrated flavors apple pastry and ripe tangerine that glide across the pal. 4. revealing a finish supported by firm tannins through 2020.—K. 80 cases imported. olive.—K. Drink now. CHILE 90 Concha y Toro Carmenère Peumo Marqués de Casa Concha 2014 $26 See Smart Buys. plum notes. 30. Drink now through 2018. Drink now through 2019. supported silky tannins and fresh acidity. Drink lively finish lingers with notes of sage and dried mint. berry. 88 Viña Santa Carolina Carmenère Cachapoal Valley Reserva 2014 $11 A fleshy red. 89 F. supported by snappy acidity. 200 cases imported.M.M.—K. Drink now through 2019. 1. Tement Sauvignon Blanc Qualitäts. 89 Viña Santa Carolina Chardonnay Limarí Valley Reserva de Familia 2014 $20 Rich and well- crafted.—K. 1.M. show on the finish. 89 Chateau Los Boldos Cabernet Sauvignon Cachapoal Cuvée Tradition 2014 $13 Offers a taut frame.M. with lanolin and beeswax give richness to the peach. backed by crisp acidity. backed by firm acidity. White pepper details show midpalate. Drink now. through 2019. 25 cases imported. Drink now pery notes. New Releases: Austria / Chile 90 Markowitsch Pinot Noir Qualitätswein 90 E. with luscious spice notes to the dark cherry. with concentrated ripe pear.M. forest floor and tar. The complex. notes on the finish. supported by fresh acidity. Licorice and dark plum.X. Drink now through 2020. 87 Viña Santa Carolina Pinot Noir Leyda Valley Reserva 2015 $11 Offers a fruity aroma. Valley Gold Reserve 2010 $50 Well-spiced. with fresh plum.675 cases made.M.392 cases made.M. Dark chocolate and smoky accents linger on the broad. Drink now. with concentrated peach.900 cases made. 2016 . fruity and wein Trocken Südsteiermark Zieregg 2013 $56 Herencia 2011 $100 This big red takes on mature pure. Maipo Valley Reserva de Familia 2014 $20 gnon Maipo Valley Domus Aurea 2011 $65 This Powerful and pure. red plum and forest floor Succulent and full of lush flavors of white cherry. imported. 33.hu 124 WINE SPECTATOR • SEPT. midpalate.M.M.—K. chocolate accents extend on the pure finish. 35 cases imported. Dried herbal accents show wood and spice details show on the lithe finish. 88 Viña Santa Carolina Cabernet Sauvignon Colchagua Valley Reserva 2014 $11 See Best Values. Best ness on the well-structured finish. Shows spicy richness midpalate. green pure and polished version offers a minty aroma.

Pinot Gris. spice accents to the flavors of poached peach and pear Drink now through 2023. 2014 $26 Well-spiced and creamy. minerally finish. Drink now through 2026.N. spiced finish.N.-Urbain 2014 $120 Medium-bodied and mouthwatering. fleur de sel FRANCE and Thai basil. 93 Zind-Humbrecht Pinot Gris Alsace Hunawihr watering finish of fleur de sel and petrol. slivered almond. 150 cases imported. Offers Brand 2013 $79 A lovely. 92 Albert Mann Riesling Alsace Grand Cru resulting in a rich. New Releases: France FRANCE 91 Domaines Schlumberger Riesling Alsace Grand Cru Saering 2013 $29 An aromatic white. air. beautiful balance and integration of the struc. Long and sleek. tured acidity.N. spice and smoke play on the finish. fresh tarragon and 93 Albert Boxler Pinot Gris Alsace Grand Cru Meyer lemon zest. juicy and silky palate of green melon.—A. this is almost 2019 through 2024.N. this 94 Albert Boxler Riesling Alsace Grand Cru finely knit.—A. featuring gingersnap and mineral and lemon zest accents playing on the finish. 205 cases imported. 145 cases imported. elegant version. Drink now Clos Windsbuhl 2014 $80 An elegant version. Brazil nut. lithe white. medium. this harmonious white wraps vibrant acidity with layers of honeyed apri- 92 Zind-Humbrecht Riesling Alsace Grand Cru cot. heim Rotenberg 2014 $60 A broad-shouldered. Drink 91 Trimbach Riesling Alsace Réserve 2014 $28 A firm. preserves. with yellow plum and white peach fruit notes and accents of grated ginger and lemon zest. Riesling. petrol. with flavors of candied kumquat.—A. papaya and orange peel are rich and ripe in 92 Zind-Humbrecht Riesling Alsace Roche character. lemon granita flavors. SEPT. Drink now through acidity that crackles through to the lasting.N. monolithic white. saline-tinged 2027. creating a chopped herb. Drink now through 2024. mineral-driven finish. smoke and saline.to full-bodied version that Furstentum 2014 $45 Aromatic. Drink now by abundant minerality. lemon parfait. Best from version. Fea- tures flavors of star fruit. with a minerally underpinning and flavors of grainy green pear.N. Hints of fresh- orange peel.N. knit version features fleshy dried apricot. melon and lemon sorbet flavors in this vivacious Riesling. Drink now through 2024. with almond skin and grated ginger and green almond.—A. ground white pepper and spring forest should gain momentum with additional air or cellar time. 300 cases imported. acidity defines this statuesque 800 cases imported.N. with rich. Long and finely balanced. creamy mix of ripe nectarine. Drink now through 2023. Should expand with now through 2021. Drink now through 2027.N. Well-balanced. Rangen de Thann Clos St. 20 cases imported.—A. dried papaya. with racy acidity and a streak of minerality driving the palate’s creamy Asian pear. 300 cases imported. 40 cases texture. this is Pinot Gris imported. 450 meshed mix of melon.N.—A.N. tinged minerality. Drink now through 2026. Best 92 Trimbach Pinot Gris Alsace Réserve Person- from 2019 through 2026.—A. tightly knit and lip-smacking. page 122. mouth. Pinot Gris. Drink lithe and delicate impression overall. presenting a lasting. remains light-footed and mouthwatering. mandarin fleur de sel and orange sorbet flavors. crunchy on the palate. blanched almond and cases imported. this broad white is dry and lip-smacking over- Calcaire 2014 $55 A rich version of Riesling. this well- $28 Harmonious. with a subtle mix of crunchy now through 2028.—A. Lithe and fo- cused by firm acidity. blanched almond and spice flavors.—A. green pear. mas and flavors waft through Asian pear. lemon curd and lanolin. 35 90 Zind-Humbrecht Riesling Alsace Turckheim cases imported. with a lacy a long. and melon. A pronounced streak of salinity gains momentum and echoes on the finish. orange 92 Albert Boxler Riesling Alsace Grand Cru granita. 10 cases imported. lacy finish. Long and minerally on the mouthwatering. dry 5 cases imported.—A. but the balance and focus Sommerberg Eckberg 2013 $85 A firm and focused suggest it should open with short-term cellaring. this light.N.—A. 42 cases Sommerberg Wiptal 2013 $79 A lush and creamy imported.N.—A. 280 cases imported. racy acidity and a lacy texture carrying the finely woven mix of yellow peach. star fruit. imported. 30. with a fine layering of firm acidity.N. Meyer lemon zest and pet- 93 Albert Boxler Riesling Alsace Grand Cru rol. 800 cases imported. Calcaire 2014 $55 Though the aromas and flavors of dried apricot. creamed almond and fleur de sel.—A. Drink now through 2023. 200 cases imported. finish. 91 Albert Mann Pinot Gris Alsace Grand Cru 91 Ostertag Riesling Alsace Vignoble d’E 2014 Furstentum 2013 $34 Dry and minerally. 93 Zind-Humbrecht Pinot Gris Alsace Wintzen- with a lingering. with grapefruit zest and slivered almond framed by racy acidity that creates a mouthwatering im- ling Alsace Hunawihr Clos Windsbuhl 2014 $80 Laserlike pression on the minerally finish. slivered almond and manda- 92 Trimbach Riesling Alsace Réserve 2013 $28 rin orange peel. 240 cases OLIVIER HUMBRECHT Brand 2013 $79 Sleek and smoky. with a lingering. with a all. fruit. Owner & Winemaker in a more linear format. offering impeccable balance and a beautifully cot. orange zest and Bra- 92 Meyer-Fonné Riesling Alsace Grand Cru zil nut.to medium-bodied version features flavors of poached peach 93 Zind-Humbrecht Ries. lemon through 2027. finish. with rapier acidity. enlivened by vivacious paraffin hints lingering on the finish. white peach. 25 cases imported.and stone-tinged minerality. 2016 • WINE SPECTATOR 125 . This is tightly knit now. Alsace / Pinot Gris with a lasting. while the mouthwatering palate offers flavors of lime granita.N. acacia blossom.N. with intense acidity driven overtone and a mouthwatering impression. with a floral An austere.—A. focused by intense acidity. ity echoes smoke and saline notes. spring blossom. with a lingering. Drink now through 2026.—A. smoke. 93 Albert Boxler Pinot Gris Alsace Grand Cru Drink now through 2028. pink grapefruit zest.—A. grated coconut and spun honey layered with racy acidity. An aromatic. Drink 92 Zind-Humbrecht Pinot Gris Alsace Roche now through 2024. crunchy white peach. kumquat and melon. with through 2026.N. nelle 2013 $46 Bright and creamy.N.—A.—A. Drink now through 2026. 45 cases imported. and melon fruit. 90 Trimbach Riesling Alsace 2014 $22 See Smart Buys. Smoky finish. Long and ele- gant. Long and vibrant. star anise. fresh and linear version offers an underpin- Sommerberg Dudenstein 2013 $85 A stunning ning of smoky minerality and creamy flavors of dried apri- white.N. Alsace / Riesling with ground spice and fresh-chopped herb accents. 170 cases imported. Subtle notes of melon rind. spiced Schoenenbourg 2013 $54 Licorice and mineral aro. Best from 2018 through 2028. aromatic stone and smoke character. The pronounced mineral- broad. this elegant white offers a lightly sweet.—A. orchard blossom. with exotic spice. racy finish. honeysuckle and blanched almond notes.—A.N. bone-dry version.

chalky finish. 100 cases imported. trant 2014 $49 Beeswax. Peach. 90 Trimbach Pinot Gris Alsace Réserve 2014 aromas and flavors. lemon.—A. Burgundy / Côte de Beaune 90 Domaine de Bellene Savigny-lès-Beaune 93 Taittinger Brut Champagne Millésimé 2008 95 Philippe Colin Chevalier-Montrachet 2014 White 2014 $59 Fresh. zesty finish.—A. Begs for oysters. Drink now through anced. New Releases: France 91 Albert Mann Pinot Gris Alsace Rosenberg 2014 $24 Vibrant acidity imparts a sense of finesse to 94 Philippe Colin Chassagne-Montrachet Les Chenevottes 2014 $110 An expansive. This is approachable now and Roche Calcaire 2014 $55 An elegant version. with a lasting ele. Année 2005 $210 Wonderfully aromatic and finely terscotch flavors. mouthfilling FRANCE this lithe Pinot Gris. 150 cases imported.—B. but 90 Corinne & Jean-Pierre Grossot Chablis clementine notes.S. medium-bodied white. boasting peach. 500 cases made. peach. which is 90 Zind-Humbrecht Pinot Gris Alsace Turck. Drink now 91 Vincent Girardin Chassagne-Montrachet Le The chalky minerality firms the long. Drink now through 2023. this white evokes green 50 cases imported. Fine length.S.—B. yet this is set in a sleek. this ing. Drink now through 2019. Finishes with 2008 $95 Rich and ripe flavors of glazed apricot and cases made.N. with vibrant acidity and $213 See Collectibles. 93 Vincent Girardin Puligny-Montrachet Les Drink now through 2020. while spice and pas. through 2023. $168 A concentrated white.—A. acacia flower and seashore flavors in 90 Zind-Humbrecht Gewürztraminer Alsace this developing white.N.S. lemon-infused style. and mouthwatering throughout. with a lively bead. floral. floral and and lemon aromas and flavors.S. 50 cases spiced plum are layered with pastry dough. Offers a tangy.—A. Offers a lingering.S. candied lemon zest and slivered almond. flowers and spices. lemon cake and butterscotch fla- in style and austere on the lingering finish.—B. 400 cases imported.S.S. but the oak spice and apple notes emerge on the palate. this white is focused. with a layered profile of dried apricot.N. melon and vanilla. light-bodied and fresh. green pear.—B. with a clean. Ends with a fine. 89 Maison Matisco Mâcon-Villages 2014 $20 minerality and tightly knit flavors of nectarine. Though subtle. this offer flavors of crème de cas- proachable. orchard blossom. humus. smoky finish. Drink now through 2023. green almond and grated ment of mineral and butterscotch on the long finish. Drink now through 2021. Balanced. Le Mesnil 2004 $520 See Collectibles. nectarine and 2014 $32 Vibrant and juicy. with vibrant acidity and by vibrant acidity and intense flavors of apple. wild thyme and citrus peel hints. graphite and imported.—B. 200 cases imported. with a core $95 An elegant Champagne. raw almond.S. apple. Harmonious and ap. tertaste of lemon.—A. Best from 2017 through 2026. Drink now.—A. a finely detailed mousse. 100 cases imported.S. Drink now through 2020. 530 cases made. Drink now through 2026. through 2019. in this lemon.—B.—B. 100 cases imported. 150 cases imported.S. in this vivid. this shows detail and a long after- Alsace / Other creamy profile and lively acidity. Best ginger.—A. green plum and honeydew melon 2027. apricot. 300 cases imported. peach and mineral flavors draped across an elegant FRANCE white.—B.S. Beautifully bal. vanilla. Cailleret 2014 $101 Smells like lemon candy. stony and intense. leaving a version is dry and finely meshed. 300 cases imported. Vivid acidity drives Burgundy / Other erality drives the flavors of yellow plum. balanced and mouthwater- should continue evolving over the next 10 years. velvety texture is underscored green apple. floral and oyster notes. Drink now through through 2025.-Aubin Le Charmois 2014 finish. Drink now through 2021. 250 cases imported. 92 Vincent Girardin Meursault Les Narvaux white delivers peach. finely knit frame. The chalky defines the finish. power and focus. Drink now 91 Philippe Colin St. Drink now 95 Maison Roche de Bellene Corton-Char. Asian pear and the peach. version that’s both broad and focused. 92 Maison Roche de Bellene Meursault Vieilles ending is clean as a whistle.S. The vivid structure keeps this racy and 90 Trimbach Gewürztraminer Alsace 2014 $25 defined. apple and melon notes. 80 cases imported.S. but very elegant.—B. lemon 94 Philippe Colin Chassagne-Montrachet Les cleansing acidity. Drink now through 2018. honey. de Milieu 2014 $55 A hint of the seashore adds depth through 2021. There is density here.N.—B. offering flavors of melon. with peach. melon and but. Drink now through 2020. mineral-tinged finish.500 cases imported.—B. Balanced in a lingering finish.N. with a core of acidity in this finely balanced.S. The lovely balance and snappy acidity also a sense of style and freshness thanks to the lively acid. lemon. 89 Domaines Schlumberger Pinot Gris Alsace Combettes 2014 $127 A hint of licorice and green 89 Bret Brothers Pouilly-Fuissé En Caremen- Les Princes Abbés 2014 $18 A crowd-pleaser. with a lean. fine tension and a bracing finish of stone and citrus. Fine length.—B. Well-integrated. Champagne died pink grapefruit zest. peach. showing rich accents of smoky. intense and stony white.—B. Ripe and succulent. 92 Trimbach Gewürztraminer Alsace Cuvée des 89 Corinne & Jean-Pierre Grossot Chablis 2014 Seigneurs de Ribeaupierre 2013 $48 This elegant 92 Vincent Girardin Meursault Les Charmes $26 This lean. 500 cases imported. 89 Domaine Vrignaud Chablis Les Champréaux and flavors of cantaloupe. Drink now through 2026. Hard to stop sipping. spice and pastry flavors. linear style. this racy white offers rich Drink now through 2024.—B. 126 WINE SPECTATOR • SEPT. pickled ginger. 89 Georges Duboeuf Pouilly-Fuissé Flower 92 Philippe Colin Chassagne-Montrachet 2014 Label 2014 $35 This bright white features floral. steely way. 60 cases imported. Shows 90 Philippe Colin St. with hints of peach fruit.N. with olive flits around the core of peach.000 cases made.—B. 90 Domaine Fourrey Chablis Côte de Lechet Offers a savory. a mouthwatering tang. imported. floral and apple flavors mix lively. Vaucoupin 2014 $40 A firm. to lemon bar. Gala apple. lemony notes and a tangy feel.S. Lean 2014 $68 Almost creamy in texture.-Aubin Les Combes 2014 94 Bollinger Brut Rosé Champagne La Grande through 2020. through 2025.S. this lacy white 92 Zind-Humbrecht Muscat Alsace Grand Cru evokes peach.—B. ground coffee. Best from 94 Salon Brut Blanc de Blancs Champagne 2017 through 2024. Offers a long. peach and citrus flavors.S. Balanced and long on the finish.—A.—A. wax and spice accents enhance the core of lemon. Best from 2017 through suggesting lemon. 1. detailed.S. with a lingering af. 2019. with a minerally base. Lightly mouthwatering. presenting a long aftertaste of toast. featuring a zesty finish. this is lithe.—A.—B. 93 Vincent Girardin Corton-Charlemagne 2014 balanced and long. Drink now through 2020. page 119. lemon and stone flavors. imported. melon and lemon flavors. Gueberschwihr Goldert 2014 $65 Lacy in texture vors. of apple.N. 100 cases imported. floral and spice flavors mesh with the frame. Vignes 2013 $90 A reduced. Drink now try notes add depth. 112 Drink now through 2021. while a subtle streak of smoky min. make this hard to stop sipping. apple.—B. vibrant finish. curd and paraffin are structured by a firm backbone of Vergers 2014 $110 Racy and rich. Dis- gorged July 2015. 100 cases imported. spiced lemagne 2013 $267 Mineral. Offers a lingering. FRANCE with baking spice details echoing on the finish.S. this offers fresh acidity throughout mineral-infused aftertaste. showing tension on the linear profile and long. 370 cases made. Shows Les Princes Abbés 2014 $14 A balanced version.—B. offering notes of spring forest. 50 cases imported. peach.—B. 200 baking spices in this sleek. verbena and can- now through 2025. toasted brioche and lemon curd. classically proportioned Chablis offers 2014 $105 The fluid. underscored by clean-cut minerality that apple. 2014 $123 A sleek. revealing a tangy.S. peach and citrus notes are shaded by sweet 92 Ayala Brut Blanc de Blancs Champagne a terrific aftertaste. 2. page 120.000 cases imported. Drink now. spice cut mix of savory minerality. Drink now through 2020. Linear and finely knit. sis and poached pear. 87 Domaines Schlumberger Pinot Blanc Alsace Should really hit its stride as the oak folds in. chalky tug and $25 Well-knit flavors of apricot. spice notes in this balanced version.and green apple–flavored white. Drink now taste. Best from 2017 citrus and spice notes.000 cases imported. 5.S. $63 Generous in texture. stone and lemon flavors. yellow plum.—A. with a mineral element lingering. 800 cases 2026. 1. smoky aroma gives way cases imported.S. 100 cases through 2018. 600 cases imported. smoke-tinged finish. 92 Corinne & Jean-Pierre Grossot Chablis Mont lemon parfait. 30. grapefruit sorbet. 50 cases imported. from 2017 through 2026. with $63 Apple. Not a powerhouse. Drink 92 Vincent Girardin Meursault Les Perrières lemon and an accent of mineral shading the apple and now through 2021. juicy acidity balancing an appealing mix of ripe Concentrated and well-proportioned. Best from 2017 through 2025. $60 Balance and texture are the hallmarks of this sleek citrus.S. with a beam of sil. Lightly smoky on the ity. with a flinty aftertaste. heim 2014 $26 An open-knit version.N.—B. Best from 2017 2014 $32 Bracing acidity is offset by a fleshy profile 2024. 20 cases imported. tactile finish. pink grapefruit sorbet and ground white pepper. a rich streak of minerality framing the flavors of honey- lemon and oak spice. Drink FRANCE ing. Thai ba. dew melon.—B. 150 cases imported. Fourneaux 2014 $40 Backed by tart acidity. savory aftertaste. Ends with bright. Best from 2018 through to Granny Smith apple. mouthwatering. 89 Corinne & Jean-Pierre Grossot Chablis Les This should open up with decanting or short-term cellar.N. 2016 .N. nutmeg and orange bergamot. mineral and spice. The mouthwatering finish shows nectarine.N.—B. Shows fine equilibrium and length. 2. salted almond and orange granita flavors.000 cases imported. crunchy white. this white displays cut and harmony.

the way. 90 La Varenne Chinon Tradition 2014 $22 Very lively. bright. thyme and savory balanced and creamy in texture. $25 Offers a crunchy feel.600 cases made. 300 cases imported. notes of sweet tobacco and fresh humus. white peach and savory notes. clean-cut finish. dried cherry and gingerbread layered with imported.310 cases imported. accented by gooseberry tique 2005 $105 Smoky. jicama and Everything pulls together through the finish. page ally. The perfumy rusticity a lemon curd and straw profile. with gooseberry.—A. 1.N.—A. Drink now through 2017. The long. 2. with a mouthwatering chalky spine cutting Bourg Première Trie 2015 $70 See Collectibles. SEPT. notes bouncing along over a flinty spine. bitter plum and cherry pit flavors.—A. Drink now through 2024. airy mousse. with green Assemblage 2008 $85 A graceful version.—J. Drink now Visit our Website at www.—J. presenting a lasting.M. Drink now through 2018. all backed by a chalk-tinged finish.M. Drink now through 2017. followed quickly by a solid core of crushed black cherry and black currant fruit.—J. 95 cases and savory notes.400 cases made.—A.—J. New Releases: France Accessible. 91 Bruno Paillard Extra Brut Champagne 89 Joseph Mellot Sancerre La Chatellenie 2015 backed by fresh ginger. Drink now through 2020.N. backed by tangy lime pith and thyme accents fine focus and a satiny texture. offering a lemony finish. 100 cases imported. with a strong savory note guiding the A bony style. Drink now through 2026. with a flint notes working well together and extending through tea accents and racy minerality providing the foil.000 cases ish. with savory. 90 Besserat de Bellefon Extra Brut Champagne Cuvée des Moines NV $60 Lightly toasty and smoky. Firm and chalky on the finish. Disgorged March 2015. Needs some time in the cellar. featuring a smoky edge and cases made. 3. 2016 • WINE SPECTATOR 127 . dark olive and bittersweet cocoa notes.N.zeni. while the core 89 Roger & Christophe Moreux Sancerre Les 92 Michel Gonet Brut Blanc de Blancs Cham. Best from 2017 through 89 Roger Neveu & Fils Sancerre Clos des coated in dark toast. with 89 Domaine de Pallus Chinon 2012 $40 Frankly a lingering hint of fleur de sel. with pagne Charles-Gilbert de Vindé Cuvée Authen. 400 cases made. with aromatic spice and toasty smoke accents to the 89 Daniel Chotard Sancerre 2014 $27 Fresh 119. candied kumquat and pickled ginger flavors. mouthwatering acidity and a lively bead car- rying the flavors of poached pear. 2018. ine.500 cut finish.M.—J.M. Drink now through through the finish.—J. with layers of cases made. and plum fruit.—A. spun honey. Drink now 96 Domaine Huët Vouvray Moelleux Le Haut- Gilbert de Vindé Réserve NV $49 Firm and miner. 90 Domaine Grosbois Chinon Gabare 2014 $30 A solid. backed by thyme and 92 Michel Gonet Brut Rosé Champagne Charles. sweet tapenade and singed bay leaf notes. Drink now through 2020. Offers core of blood orange. leaving a lingering smoke accent. notes of green plum. underscored by chalky minerality on the fresh. Drink now through 2021. 2. page 119. Lieu Première Trie 2015 $65 See Collectibles. 80 cases imported. Drink now through 2020. through the lemon curd. 2014 $30 Supple in feel. The brambly feel through the finish mellows quickly. Drink sense of finesse. 30.M.M. through 2017.500 through 2017. made.—A. 1.it through 2022. with lots of chive flower. Lieu 2015 $45 Offers a big. but there’s good underlying energy here. Long and spiced 90 Joseph Mellot Sancerre L’Original 2014 $70 on the citrusy finish.M. with dark currant and Family Wine Estate for 5 generations. balanced by a fine. 91 Michel Gonet Brut Champagne Charles. Reveals a gooseberry twinge at the very end.—J. apple and peach falling over each other. Drink now through 2020. this has slightly mature-edged cherry Bouffants 2014 $24 A tangy.M. Drink now 95 Domaine Huët Vouvray Moelleux Le Haut- graphite-tinged finish. Balanced and fresh. 3. with a solid core of steeped plum and black cherry fruit melded with smolder- ing charcoal. 1.N. made. 98 cases imported.—J. 200 cases imported.M. Drink now through 2018. Best from 2018 through 2022. Drink now through 2018.—J.N. broad feel.—A.N. Drink now through 2019. melding slowly with notes of tobacco leaf zest and pith accents racing along. Finely and open. tangy acidity. FRANCE Loire / Chinon 90 Bernard Baudry Chinon La Croix Boissée 2012 $44 This has hit its stride. pagne that slowly expands on the vibrant palate. Bouffants 2014 $27 Shows a touch of maturity. made. with lots of chive and flint notes leading cherry. slightly chunky version. creamy Champagne. 91 Michel Gonet Brut Blanc de Blancs Champagne Charles-Gilbert de Vindé NV $57 Rich flavors of Honeycrisp apple. Drink now through 2021.000 cases imported.M.M.300 cases made. 8. Disgorged March 2012. plum and kum- quat fruit flavors are set in a firm frame. creamy rosé Cham. this offers a spiced profile of ripe nectar- now through 2035. olive and bay notes out front. bitter cherry fruit pushed by singed bay.300 cases made. ending with a zip of gooseberry notes. savory. 1. Shows lots of bony cut through the fin- Gilbert de Vindé NV $54 A subtle. 1. with rich notes of orange will win this fans. brisk style. and black olive through the finish.—J. 89 Catherine & Pierre Breton Chinon Beaumont the mouthwatering finish.—J.000 cases made. cassis and pastry dough.—J. with savory 89 Domaine de Pallus Chinon Messanges 2015 hints of almond skin and fleur de sel accenting the white 89 Roland Tissier & Fils Sancerre 2015 $22 $17 Brisk-edged.—J. 1. slivered FRANCE FRANCE almond and graphite are enlivened by mouthwatering Loire / Sancerre Loire / Vouvray acidity in this fine.N. glazed pear. toast and fresh ginger underscored by Meyer lemon and chalk notes. fleshy finish reveals an echo of rosemary.—A. honeysuckle and quince notes.250 cases Creamsicle. presenting juicy acidity through to the clean.M. smoky fin.669 cases imported. Offers a lingering whiff of game.M. Disgorged April 2015. featuring a long. A cocoa edge holds sway on the dark finish. ish.300 cases 97 Domaine Huët Vouvray Moelleux Clos du Very fresh. 30 cases imported. 90 Besserat de Bellefon Brut Blanc de Noirs Champagne NV $70 Black currant. 8. lemon curd and pastry dough.N. with bright. 1. of lightly steeped cherry and plum fruit fills in behind. with lemon 2026.

—J. açai berry and raspberry AT T H E F E S T I VA L G R A N D TA S T I N G Spéciale 2014 $65 Alluring salted butter. A light echo of iron pervades creamed melon and smoke pervade the finish.—J. 5. elements. Reveals a flicker of warm piecrust through- 89 Domaine Trotereau Quincy 2014 $20 Vibrant lemon and grapefruit peel notes race forth.M. quince and pear notes. Drink now through 2019. honeysuckle and melon flavors all stitched together. through 2017.M. 200 cases imported. through 2020. 128 WINE SPECTATOR • SEPT. The chalky spine gives the Pretty ginger and heather notes fill in the background. 2015 $45 Offers a flattering feel. Drink now through 2018. Drink now TH E ULTIMATE FALL WINE & FOOD WEEKEN D while the finish shows a well-embedded mineral edge. with the off-dry edge imparting a flattering feel.M.—J. with yellow apple. almond and quince notes meld together. with friendly green almond and lime notes backed by a light fennel echo. green flavors.M. plum and red currant For information & tickets visit flavors glide through.—J.—J.M. anise and quince flavors gliding 2013 $30 A tangy salted streak adds energy to the core along. Offers a long.M. WINERY & TASTING ROOM OPEN HOUSES 2014 $24 See Smart Buys. singed cin- (WINE SPECTATOR DISCOUNT OF $15 GENERAL ADMISSION. with grapefruit and 2030. rippling 89 Jean-Marie Berthier Pouilly-Fumé 2015 $30 Racy and chiseled. though this main- ily long. unctuous quince. of chamomile. imported. Drink now through 2018. 60 cases imported. singed fruit seamlessly melded with dried star anise. Shows a lingering whiff of bitter almond at the very OCTOBER 7-10. A beauty. 7.—J. Drink now through 2035.M. Chenin Blanc. by floral and thyme notes. yellow apple.—J. O C T O B E R 8 .—J.—J. Best from 2017 through 90 Domaine Trotereau Quincy Vieilles Vignes 2014 $25 Shows a juicy edge. Still start to finish. olive hang in the background.M. apple and quince flavors. imparting tension to match the opulence.—J. 235 cases iron notes.M. Drink now. 1. staying refined all the way.and hibiscus-infused creamed 150 cases imported. 500 cases imported.—J.—J. 2 0 1 6 Demi-Sec Les Fosses d’Hareng 2014 $18 A friendly. herb-edged cut from the start driving the core lengthens the finish. 93 Domaine Huët Vouvray Sec Le Mont 2015 89 Cave Cooperative du Vendômois Coteaux $38 A light echo of baked apple leads off. Best from 2017 CELEBRATING 25 YEARS through 2030. DINNER. COLUMBUS DAY WEEKEND melon. SOLVANG. 89 Champalou Vouvray Les Fondraux 2014 $23 89 Château d’Epiré Savennières Cuvée Spéciale Fresh. with apple. picking up a sel gris edge along the way.M. Drink now Best from 2017 through 2027. but very pure and sneak- serve. backed by a light anise cardamom notes. 10 cases imported. 450 cases imported. while hints of singed bay and dark papaya notes mixed with peach. echo through the sleek finish.M.—J. with Petit Paon NV $28/500ml An alluring sweet version. 405 cases S AT U R D AY.—J.M. backed out. Drink now through 2020. 90 Domaine des Baumard Savennières 2014 black tea and violet aromas leading the way for a rich.M.com or call 805-688-0881 mineral note lingers. A coulis flavors. All the elements meld through the long. WINEMAKER DINNERS. 94 Domaine Huët Vouvray Moelleux Le Mont thyme and gooseberry notes. 300 cases imported. fig and pear fruit flavors that with creamed quince. lemon peel accents amid a core of tasty white peach. FRANCE E AT … Rhône / Châteauneuf-du-Pape INSPIRED REGIONAL CUISINE FRANCE Loire / Other 97 Rotem & Mounir Saouma Châteauneuf-du- Pape Arioso 2012 $233 This is cut from different B E M E R RY … 91 Domaine des Baumard Savennières Trie cloth. with chive and flint details running from The long. through 2035.000 cases made.—J.—J. 30. page 121. with talc.—J. Fresh acidity ripples underneath. carried by a mineral echo through the finish. through 2020.—J. backed by MISSION SANTA INÉS. Drink now through 2032.M.M. all carried by substantial yet USE PROMO CODE WSD15) edged texture offset by a buried quinine spine. with mouth- ger. 60 cases imported. This should age well in the cellar. 2016 . The long finish is lush and enticing. followed by du Vendômois Lieu-dit Cocagne 2015 $14 A fresh. hold- ing sway through the mouthwatering finish. zippy finish. 400 cases imported. 90 Catherine & Pierre Breton Bourgueil Franc 94 Domaine Huët Vouvray Demi-Sec Clos du de Pied 2014 $34 Dark plum and bitter cherry notes Bourg 2015 $45 Quite ripe. A solid effort 89 Cave des Producteurs de Vouvray Vouvray for the vintage. 2030. piecrust and dried persimmon waits in re- 2015 $18 This is understated. yet $26 Salted butter. pear and persimmon notes allied to a racy spine that watering. 93 Domaine Huët Vouvray Sec Le Haut-Lieu 89 Catherine & Pierre Breton Bourgueil Les 2015 $32 Solidly ripe. with tropical mango and give this a fleshy feel. powdered ginger and verbena notes at the core. Latent minerality lengthens the finish.—J. off-dry style. Drink now through 2017.000 cases made.250 cases made. rich feel throughout. New Releases: France 95 Domaine Huët Vouvray Moelleux Le Mont 90 Domaine des Baumard Vin de France Le Première Trie 2015 $70 Ripe and energetic. light olive and rosemary notes along the way. mirabelle plum and quince Lieu 2015 $42 Features a wide range of apple. ginger and anise notes. with a creamy. creamed white peach and quince silky and refined.—J. 520 cases made. Drink now. white peach and jicama notes finish. Best from 2017 Lacks range. carried by bright green tea.M.—J. 100’S OF WINES OF DISTINCTION style. minerally finish features rippling acidity. 200 cases imported. melon. Drink now. quince. 300 cases imported. letting ginger. core of creamed yellow apple. with beguiling loganberry. with a rounded feel to the finish. as white peach.—J. tight. but remains very long and pure. honeysuckle and yellow apple notes. piercing style. with finely beaded acidity and a plump yet fresh FESTIVAL GRAND TASTING finish. 1. Beguiling. 1 TO 4PM a quince echo. finish energy but stays nicely embedded. rippling minerality. gilded with a whiff of piecrust. with a full-bodied core of gin- Galichets 2014 $29 Fresh and focused. Drink now showing latent. adding extra cut to the copious fruit and spice Celebrate all weekend…FRIDAY NIGHT HARVEST through 2024.—J. end. crystalized ginger and fresh green power along. Hints of remarkably silky tannins. backed by a light whiff of smoke. Drink TA S T E … 87 Sauvion & Fils Vouvray 2015 $12 A breezy now.M. 2015 $50 Offers ginger. 12 cases imported. jicama and lemon curd notes tains a broad. but still imported. 94 Rotem & Mounir Saouma Châteauneuf-du- Pape Omnia 2013 $111 Alluring. 7. 485 cases imported. with a salted butter and talc edge harnessing the 94 Domaine Huët Vouvray Demi-Sec Le Haut. core of raspberry. with ginger cream and singed almond notes gliding along while the core of 89 Jean-Marie Berthier Sauvignon Blanc Coteaux du Giennois Domaine de Montbenoit warm apple. SATURDAY MORNING 91 Régis Minet Pouilly-Fumé Vieilles Vignes WINE SEMINAR. Drink now the finish. Hard to resist now but should cruise in the cel- lar.179 cases imported.M. Reveals echoes of chive 93 Domaine Huët Vouvray Demi-Sec Le Mont and flint.M.M. picking up mond accents play out. namon and black tea notes. The long finish is gilded with shiso leaf and celebrationofharvest. Drink now through glide along. Drink now through 2020. 50 cases imported. so let this unwind in the cellar. Drink now through 2027. quince and green al- of damson plum and bitter cherry fruit along. Drink now through 2017.M.791 cases imported. 10 cases imported. 90 Château d’Epiré Savennières 2014 $21 Well- focused.M.M. with cinnamon. ginger and green plum notes gliding throughout.

where violet and 93 Gilles Barge Côte-Rôtie Côte Brune 2013 mineral hints lurk. Has the slightly crisp angle of the vintage. with layers of boysenberry. bay leaf and singed balsamic notes. followed by a lightly mulled core of raspberry and blackberry fruit.M. accented by fleshy cherry and plum toast. Rostaing Côte-Rôtie Côte Brune 2013 92 R. White pepper and singed juniper 92 Georges Vernay Côte-Rôtie Blonde du details fill in the background.M.250 cases made. mesquite and warm olive aromas leading the way. plum and black cherry coulis flavors. while red currant and damson plum fruit push out from the core. 258 cases made.—J. but stays pure overall as an paste notes. Leans 94 St.-Cosme Côte-Rôtie 2014 $75 A firm. 1. fig and alder details through the finish. The tight-grained finish has judicious and ganache profile. grippy 2012 $391 Fresh and pure. 500 cases made. 750 watering olive.M. 500 cases imported. 40 cases imported.com SEPT. with layers of raspberry. with 92 Gilles Barge Côte-Rôtie Cuvée du Plessy bold black licorice and fruitcake 2013 $55 The dark fruit shows a hint of lushness at notes leading the way. Champagne Producers vealing a polished feel on the finish. violet and in- through 2024. Delivers energetic. singed alder hints guide the dark plum and blackberry vors.M. 92 E. and white pepper notes chime in for added range.—J.M. savory and 94 R. page 120.M. showing a hint of cocoa. Everything knits through the fruit.600 cases made. Best from minerally style. with a gorgeous medley of black tea. sleek style.—J. 140 cases imported.—J. 92 Louis & Cherry Barruol Côte-Rôtie Nève 90 La Sousto Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2013 $45 2014 $75 Has a bright peppery note up front.—J. followed by the core. OUR FAMILY SECRET IS 2013 $65 Shows lovely tension. PIERRE FABRE 2. fruit. 30.—J. 91 Château Mont-Redon  Drink now through 2027. though the edges are taut and racy. strapping style. with the definition to carry it off. Drink now through 2020. racy finish. New Releases: France tightly coiled.—J.M. imported.—J. Drink now through 2025. Best from 2017 through 2022. Shows a lingering anise detail on the juicy. fleshy fruit for the vintage. plum and 2018 through 2025. Lovely bay and leather 94 Jean-Michel Gerin Côte-Rôtie La Landonne accents hang on the background. backed by dark cherry and plum fruit that stretches out through 94 R. Best from $75 This sports a solid core of dark currant. Best from 2017 through 2024. out. with mouthwatering 93 Paul Autard Châteauneuf-du-Pape Juline minerality and perfumy tea and singed sandalwood notes THE NAME ON THE BOTTLE 2013 $100 Ambitious. Guigal Côte-Rôtie Brune et Blonde 2012 FRANCE $78 This offers a distinctive set of alder and olive aro- Rhône / Côte-Rôtie mas before giving way to a slightly taut core of bitter cherry. Best made.M.—J. 700 cases made. through 2025. Best from 2018 nicely.M. Best from 2017 through 2024. Best from 2017 through 2022. The finish picks up light bay and juniper accents. singed depth. Rostaing Côte-Rôtie Ampodium 2013 $85 $190 See Collectibles.M. Drink now through 2030. Should age Needs a touch of cellaring to open up fully. giving way to dark tapenade and La Côte Ronde 2013 $70 Features good. showing ample length and $56 Alluring. Winemaker 92 Louis & Cherry Barruol Côte-Rôtie La Viallière 2014 $75 This peppery red shows sage and 90 Paul Autard Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2013 $45 bay leaf notes streaking through the bitter plum and Solid. Drink now through 2022. This will need some time Seigneur 2013 $95 A fresh. 500 cases made. start to finish. white pepper–infused finish has serious cut and drive.M. with a hefty dose of dark cocoa leading to red currant and damson plum fruit. with rosemary. 1 Grand Marque that is owned and run by the raspberry puree melding with melted licorice and warm 93 Gilles Barge Côte-Rôtie Côte Brune 2012 namesake family fruitcake flavors through the finish. Solid and approach- Pape La Belle Voyageuse 2014 $50 Ripe and able now. melding Best from 2017 through 2027. so cellar for maximum effect. brambly structure through the singed sandalwood and incense notes lending a caressing finish. Best from 2018 through 2028. the core of cherry along. but shows depth and energy that should help this fill out with modest cellaring. raspberry. Best from 2019 through 2030. toward the old-school side of the style spectrum. Best from 2018 through 2028.M.—J. easily with light tobacco.—J. followed Dense. ©2016 Kobrand Corporation. Let this unwind in the cellar.—J. 2016 • WINE SPECTATOR 129 . plum and red currant fruit. iron accent lingers. plum and blackberry by dried sage and savory accents that steadily give way to preserves stretching out over a charcoal-edged structure. mouthfilling in feel.M. with gentle notes.600 cases made. bitter cherry and damson plum fruit flavors. echoing effortlessly thanks to fresh acidity. black cherry fruit. Well-focused finish. Shows a lovely backdrop of bay and sanguine notes. 583 cases feel to the core of lightly steeped bitter cherry and plum made. sanguine and iron details through the tangy. bay and white pepper accents give the fin- ish range. Rostaing Côte-Rôtie La Landonne 2013 bay leading the way. Picks up sleek picking up notes of lavender and tobacco along the way. with lots of iron-edged grip striding from 2017 through 2027. with a frankly toasty frame giving this a fruitcake crushed cherry fruit. 1.—J.M.—J. 37 cases energetic finish.—J.M. stitched with slightly leathery tannins ONLY 92 Paul Autard Châteauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée and dried bay leaf notes. rosemary and white pepper notes pulling cases made. leading to a long. with a core of juicy raspberry pâte de 93 Gilles Barge Côte-Rôtie Cuvée du Plessy fruit and plum cake flavors kept lively by anise and violet 2012 $55 This has a slightly rounded edge. from 2017 through 2027.—J. dark. Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2013 $48 A ripe.M.M. The long. A lively.M. cense. with mouth- to stretch out fully. Best from 2018 reduction notes lined with hints of anise.—J. 20 cases imported. NY www. which builds 92 Julien Pilon Côte-Rôtie La Porchette 2013 steadily with air in the glass. 1.kobrandwineandspirits. Iron and juicy raspberry and plum paste fla. Purchase. 37 cases imported. Shows ample guts and $75 Focused. 92 Domaine de la Mordorée Châteauneuf-du. 25 cases imported. with a supple feel to the finish that exudes a slightly perfumy sandalwood note.M. 90 cases imported. 94 R. page 119. herb-accented style.—J. The finish lets light olive $175 See Collectibles. graphite-edged finish. Best 5000 boysenberry and dark cherry fruit.—J.—J. re. and anise-infused toast over the core of macerated plum. 500 cases imported. Rostaing Côte-Rôtie Côte Blonde 2013 the long finish. from 2018 through 2028. 541 cases The long echo of dark fruit bodes well for the cellar.M. Shows a strong iron underpinning through- $190 See Collectibles. Well-built. with a supple beam of cassis and plum length. page 120. but stays fleshy and inviting in feel. A light iron echo holds through the finish. taut. Has ample depth. Best from 93 Gilles Barge Côte-Rôtie Coeur de Combard 2018 through 2028. Juniper.500 cases made.

M. Drink now. 4. The long finish picks up twinges of 93 Château de St. while ample structure lends focus.M. here.—J. Lightly gilded with toast on the fin- Remizières Cuvée Emilie 2014 $85 Very inviting. Shows the cool. tage profile.—J. Drink now through 2027.M. Violet and graph.—J.M. 500 cases made.—J. Victoria 2014 $20 This red is solidly ripe.—J. fruitcake and dark licorice notes. Drink now through 90 E. full-bodied rosé features a tobacco frame melding Rhône / Gigondas the best wines from this appellation. picking up dried star anise.-Cosme Gigondas Hominis plum and cherry fruit.M. persimmon and Cavail- lends this a slightly forward edge. 20.—J. but not the volume or range of 89 Château d’Aquéria Tavel 2015 $20 This ripe. Drink now through 2017.M. backed by 89 Château Juvenal Ventoux White Les Ribes 1.M.—J. along with gether and carrying through a ripe the vintage. light-bodied and direct.000 cases made. 91 Domaine de la Mordorée Tavel La Dame rabelle plum.—J.M. 20. but there’s no rush here.—J.500 cases made. Drink now through 2017. lightly singed sandalwood and blood orange hints on the ish. 90 Henri de Lanzac Tavel Château de Ségriès imported. lively savory and rooibos tea notes through the finish. rich and exotic style.—J. picking up charcoal and roasted alder accents through the finish. Best from Rhône / Rosé La Champine 2014 $20 Very lively. Drink now through twinge of bitter citrus oil and well-buried minerality. cherry and plum fruit. The long. with melon. cherry paste and plum fruit flavors. A stunner. floral style. Drink now through 2019. star fruit. Shows stony zip through the long finish.500 cases made. 4.-Cosme Gigondas Le Poste of blood orange notes stitch up the finish. Owner & Winemaker 2015 $22 This delivers a big. with lovely raspberry. Drink now. Drink now. The long. juniper thread through the finish. Drink now savory and tobacco notes weaving around the core of 4. blackberry aromas and flavors.M. plantain. with warm ganache and steeped plum and Drink now.—J. and full-bodied. with good supporting energy coming from 2015 $19 Juicy. 600 cases made. a core of intense cherry. 87 Château Gigognan Côtes du Rhône Vignes finish. with aromas and flavors of warm raspberry and boysen.M.700 cases made. taining a flattering feel throughout.M. 3.—J. with a bitter plum paste frame around the notes of 94 Julien Pilon Condrieu Lône 2014 $54 currant and cherry preserves.—J. with dark sage. Drink now through 2022. on the finish. tobacco and charcoal notes coil around the ite details line the finish. giving way to a flash of peach be.000 cases made. 1. 266 cases made. Drink now. 3. Drink now through 2019. gilded with a heather Shows good old-school character. and anise notes gliding through.—J. Pape White 2014 $42 Rounded and ripe. charcoal-edged grip from the get-go.M. savory and tobacco notes providing the frame. minerally underpinning despite the heft. A Sports solid. finish.M. suckle notes stream through. with lots of fig. Light zip 2023.M.800 cases made. backed by a stony spine through 91 Château Jas de Bressy Châteauneuf-du- Domaine des Remizières Cuvée Christophe 2014 the finish. re- Fides 2014 $109 Juicy and well-built. 70 cases imported. blackberry and red currant fruit.—J. Guigal Hermitage White 2012 $75 Rich. 133 cases made. with cherry paste and gorgeously hedonistic wine. fennel and white 90 Jean Barnier Vacqueyras Domaine Fontaine Rousse 2015 $26 Juicy and ripe. apricot and glazed A light coating of singed mesquite drapes over a medium. with range to the peach notes seamlessly woven to- du Clos Castillon 2014 $45 This has solid flesh for blood orange. blackberry and black currant fruit. Pape White Magis 2013 $132 Gorgeous. all inlaid with racy anise. succulent melon. backed by blueberry 91 Jean-Michel Gerin Viog- reduction. green fig. apri- cot and singed almond notes. 200 cases made. Nîmes 1753 2013 $18 Offers a peppery aroma. 75 cases made. Cari.M. Drink now. Shows remarkable refinement for the vintage.150 cases made. Not big.—J. Clairette and Viognier.M. 2. Grenache. backed by heather and salted butter notes. iron through the finish. Rousse Les Vestides 2015 $24 Very solid. pomegranate and peach fruit fla. Tar and sage 130 WINE SPECTATOR • SEPT.M. New Releases: France FRANCE details line the finish. Drink now.—J. white peach. with singed 1. There’s some depth here and good ripeness for the vintage. Drink now through 2018. Cavaillon melon notes.000 cases made. finishing with bittersweet cocoa and Good zip. with light style but will have fans for sure.M. plum. unadorned style. A breezy. exemplary display of large-scale fruit and precision. accompanied by light but persis.M.M. with lots of grip along the edges. Drink now. fennel and honey- 90 Paul Jaboulet Aîné Hermitage La Chapelle vors.—J. berry pâte de fruit leading the way. mango.-Cosme Gigondas 2014 $43 finish has a pleasant juniper accent.—J. Drink now. with the fruit echoing pleasantly.600 cases made. plum and bitter cherry paste flavors. 30. 3.—J. with luscious apricot.—J. A lightly firm singed hazelnut. with the spine to age a hint on the lush finish. FRANCE fresh and persistent. picking up a citrus oil note for spine.—J. imported. Cuts a long and broad swath through the alder edge holds the finish. Guigal Gigondas 2012 $37 This has a 88 Vignerons de Beaumes-de-Venise Ventoux 2018. finish.—J. Packs in the fruit but stays fresh and lively. juicy core of cherry and 90 Domaine Desmeure Crozes-Hermitage ripe strawberry flavors. with layered apricot. du Prieuré 2015 $17 Direct. Solid. roasted alder and savory notes forming a robust frame 89 Domaine de Verquière Vacqueyras 2014 $30 around the chewy-edged currant. Drink now through 2020.000 cases imported. smoldering finish lets the Solid.—J. pear and yellow apple fruit flavors meld- ing together. This has solid structure.—J. 7 cases imported.-Cosme Condrieu 2014 $78 Gorgeous. 90 Maison Lombard Crozes-Hermitage 2013 19.—J. Drink now through Cavaillon melon and nectarine flavors that drive through weather profile of the vintage. The fruit 89 Cave de Rasteau Rasteau Ortas Dame 95 St.000 2013 $275 Features a slightly taut frame.M.—J. Shows a flash of 93 E. Captivating. picking up a lightly singed Intense. cedar and balsamic notes clipping the wings of the red cases made.000 cases made.—J. white peach. 87 Domaine de Triennes Méditerranée Rosé coulis flavors stretching out. melded nicely into the core of dried currant.M. with dark with papaya. Drink now through 2020. 350 cases JEAN-MICHEL GERIN dark licorice accents. The Devil’s Stone 2015 $12 Violet. yet minerally. with 89 Domaine Raspail-Ay Gigondas 2013 $40 cherry and bitter plum fruit filling in. through 2026.—J. 96 Rotem & Mounir Saouma Châteauneuf-du- core of steeped plum.-Cosme Gigondas Le Claux Domaine des Remizières Cuvée Particulière 2014 $26 Ripe cassis and raspberry puree notes form the core FRANCE 2014 $109 Intense. woodsy and herb accents stride through. Best from 2018 through 2019. currant and blackberry preserve notes inlaid with lon melon notes seamlessly stitched together. the finish. Packed 2024.000 cases 87 Château de Campuget Syrah Costières de Drink now through 2018.M. berry confiture. dark.000 cases made. Drink now. with 2018.M.—J. 89 Domaine Desmeure Crozes-Hermitage 94 Château de St. 125 cases made. currant. cherry and strawberry flavors.M. but cases imported. a graphite spine and enticing anise and singed apple wood white cherry and peach flavors and an orange zest echo fine-grained structure and lovely minerality linger through notes. backed by persimmon accents. lavender and slightly firm edge of roasted alder and juniper. Shows terrific precision to the rusticity here. Rhône / White as rosemary.000 cases made. melon The finish picks up bay and warm paving stone notes.M. lined with Best from 2017 through 2024. floral-edged style.M. tent silky tannins.M. Has just enough cut for balance. revealing a very FRANCE nier Collines Rhodaniennes flattering feel through the spice-infused finish. Syrah. 200 cases imported. and unctuous. but it’s polished and integrated. peach flavors layered with notes of orange sabayon and weight core of plum and black currant fruit. 87 Cave de Rasteau Rasteau Ortas Tradition 93 Julien Pilon Condrieu Vernon 2014 $77 An Rhône / Other Red 2014 $18 A bright.800 cases made.M. with delightful green fig. bit longer. a well-buried spine of charcoal and graphite.—J. with a light kiss of butter at the very end. 2. du Vallat 2015 $25 Yellow apple. fore an iron streak checks in on the finish. 2014 $109 This has a succulent edge despite the vin. with flecks of white pepper enhancing the core of damson and citrus oil notes. jasmine from 2018 through 2024.—J. 10. A touch amped-up in 90 Domaine de la Mordorée Tavel La Dame Drink now through 2017. The fleshy light honeysuckle and jasmine accents and backed by a 92 Château de St. mi- 2017 through 2024. 700 cases imported. Drink now through 2018. A 3. Best 89 Domaine Lombard Vin de Pays de la Drôme honeyed feel to the pear. with fruit but not heady. with a violet note lead- intense.M. with a core of lightly singed alder and perfumy black tea notes.—J.M. backed by bitter orange and 92 Domaine Desmeure Hermitage Domaine des ing the way for cherry and red currant fruit. yellow apple and La Renommée 2014 $18 A bright. 250 cases made. 20 red licorice notes lined with a light floral edge. this offers $35 Inviting. Drink now through with lightly mulled strawberry and cherry fruit. 2016 . plum pit notes move along. the finish. with dark plum and boysenberry notes car. showing lingering paraffin and heather details. backed by espresso and warm fruitcake notes on the finish. Drink now through 2024.M. almost unctuous in feel. 300 cases made. Drink now through 2017. 750 cases made. gnane and Cinsault. chamomile and quinine for added range and length. 95 Château de St. ried by brambly grip. 660 cases made. plum and boysenberry $35 This sports a ripe core of boysenberry and black.M. carrying through a cherry-filled 93 Domaine Faury Condrieu 2014 $59 Plump finish. with a rich The long finish has a racy. pear.

M. 500 cases made.—G. Kourtakis Assyrtiko Santorini Greek Wine apple. 240 cases made. ish.700 cases made. $39/620ml Distinctive. Languedoc Rosé 2015 $16 This rosé is fresh and in- viting. crisp flavors of Gala persimmon. Drink now. with some ripe melon accents. Moscato-Sauvignon Blanc Drama Oenodea 2015 $14 A medium-bodied white. Drink now. 1. Drink now.667 cases made. Savagnin. Honey and spice details show on the creamy fin- by muscular.S. 700 cases made.—G. Drink now structure in this medium-bodied white. Lemongrass and through 2019.Ott tails. flavors. From Jura. The long finish ripples savory white. 448 cases made. Merlot. Dried beef and for- cherry and strawberry flavors. Drink now through 2019.900 cases 87 Château Notre-Dame du Quatourze  made. Accents of smoke and mineral show on the tangy. 87 Idaia Thrapsathiri Crete Ocean 2015 $18 ple red. black cherry are kept elegant and fresh by 50.—J. fueled by tangy acidity that eases into the long. full-bodied red. Offers a crisp. Drink now. Syrah and Petit Verdot. lime flavors. The spicy finish is crisp and refreshing.—G. ISRAEL 90 Jolie-Pitt & Perrin Côtes de Provence Rosé 90 Agur Special Reserve Judean Hills 2012 $40 Miraval 2015 $26 Alluring.M. Herbal notes show on the finish. grapefruit and white currant. with dry-edged walnut and 87 Domaine Costa Lazaridi Drama Amethystos Brazil nut notes giving this tension. Shows plenty of red lico.000 rice notes.M.—G. 800 cases 91 Daniel Dugois Arbois Auréoline 2014 $45 made. lively acidity in this full-bodied red. with Peach and glazed apricot notes emerge in this sweet. Drink now through 2019.S. with singed Brazil nut aro- mas imparting a Sherry-like profile before revealing richer 90 D. Licorice notes show midpalate. Cabernet Franc.—K.M. The long fin. Other 92 Daniel Dugois Savagnin Arbois Sous Voile GREECE 2012 $49 Very distinctive. The richly spiced finish features accents of dried over a dry. with peach and mango A sinewy red that offers concentrated flavors of dried berry aromas that give way to a stony. revealing hints of citrus zest and dried highlighted by a juicy acidity and fleur de sel accents in mint.M. featuring plenty of ripe citrus imparting a sense of contrasting opulence. Drink now. filled with green apple and 91 Clos Troteligotte Malbec Cahors K 2012 $34 white currant flavors accented by fresh minerality. 800 cases made. Cabernet Sauvignon.000 and paprika. page 122. enlivened by spice and herbal notes. baked pear and lemon curd fla- lemon rind notes. Moscho- low apple and pear flavors.—J. grapefruit and peach. with accents of savory Drink now. pureed peach and floral notes. with lovely yellow apple.M. Drink now. Kosher. dried berry and currant.S.M.M. 90 Jean Perrier & Fils Savoie Apremont Cuvée 500 cases made. Drink now 86 Domaine Costa Lazaridi Malagouzia- through 2018.M. pear and macadamia 87 Idaia Vidianó Crete 2015 $17 A crisp and nut flavors and a creamy texture. Sau- sweetness.M. Green peach and anise notes emerge on the From Jura. From Jura.M. made.—J. Drink now. Mineral presenting a finish that has accents of milk chocolate accents follow through on the finish. Drink now through 2019. 500 cases made.—K. Drink now mint and sage. floral finish.—K.000 cases through 2022. leading sance Cuvée Boisée 2013 $22 Notes of raspberry to a finish that offers spice and herbal accents. brioche.—G. 1. lime notes show on the fresh finish. dried floral finish. white cherry and tea notes. Drink now through 2019. with a light stony frame around the 2019.000 cases made. made.000 cases finish. palate.000 cases made.M. From Languedoc.—K. apple. 89 Agur Layam Judean Hills 2013 $37 Shows notes of forest floor to the firm.—K. Marselan and cases imported. Kosher. juicy cherry compote. Kosher.000 cases 87 Domaine Hatzimichalis Assyrtiko Atalanti made. 50. melon and pear nuances midpalate. 87 Hecht & Bannier Languedoc Rosé 2015 $13 90 Recanati Special Reserve Galilee 2013 $60 Juicy and rich. Drink now through 2021. 92 Château de Haute-Serre Cahors Cuvée 89 D. 1. Drink now through 2022.—J. 300.—J. Drink now through 2020. Kourtakis Muscat Samos Kourtaki NV $14 Prestige 2011 $45 A generous. 2016 • WINE SPECTATOR 131 . with everything flowing harmoniously vors. 91 Daniel Dugois Arbois Vin Jaune 2009 Drink now. with notes of dried ish picks up paraffin. 10. torte and ripe. Offers a chiseled finish. revealing some floral touches.500 cases made. Flirts with notes. Drink now. 10.S.—K. filero. Drink now.M. Try as an aperitif. but with distinctive salted but. Drink now through 2020. Syrah. 3. finish.—K. Drink now. 650 cases made.M. salted butter and dried coconut to the ripe apple.—K. with juicy. orange peel and quince details flow through. Meaty accents emerge mid- by hints of spice.M. 87 Nasiakos Mantinia 2015 $19 Notes of tarra- 90 Daniel Dugois Chardonnay Arbois Terre de gon cream enliven the green peach and lemon-lime Marne 2014 $39 This has the variety’s typically yel. Valley 2015 $12 Juicy.—J. 825 cases made. smoke and spice elements linger Apple and pear flavors blend easily and rest on a firm through the lengthy. quinine and wet straw notes adding range and character through the finish. Cellars 2014 $20 A creamy white. herbs. 41. 330 cases made. Gastronomie 2015 $16 See Smart Buys. while the core lets White 2015 $18 Firm. 165 cases made. sinewy flavors of roasted with a touch of mineral. cases made.M. Hints of violet and forest floor play into the black currant and dried blackberry flavors in this concentrated but sup. showing lovely cut through the vignon Blanc and Assyrtiko. 1. zesty finish accented plum. 65.—K. showing white cherry. From Jura. with an herb-tinged finish. spiced plum and mocha flavors outlined white. flavors.—K. Alluring. Drink now through 2015 $25 Fresh.—G. Syrah and Mourvèdre.S. Cabernet Sauvignon. The zesty finish features hints of white pepper. with lots of red plum and raspberry flavors A creamy rosé showing wild strawberry and white cherry that feature fresh acidity. well-structured finish.—K. New Releases: France / Greece / Israel FRANCE this crisp rosé. nervy underpinning.—K. 30. racy-edged core of white and cherry along with firm minerality.M. Citrusy midpalate. leading to a minerally finish filled with cedary de- 87 Ott Selection Côtes de Provence Rosé By. 86 Domaine Le Pive Sable de Camargue Rosé supported by fresh acidity. but stays dry.S. Spice and custard notes emerge Gris 2015 $16 Peach and white raspberry notes are on the firm finish. 89 Pelter Chardonnay Galilee Unwooded 2014 $25 This has good cut to the apple and pear flavors. Bitter chocolate.000 cases imported. with crunchy flavors of 90 Château de Gaudou Malbec Cahors Renais. SEPT. Carignan. est floor notes show on the finish. with bracing acidity to the green apple and with a light walnut echo and whiff of paraffin. ter. integrated tannins.M.

.

N. 160 cases made. 2. 1. ing structure.—A. Dried marjoram and graphite accents linger Dessimis 2014 $43 Fine and creamy. pastry cream and cherry. presenting a soft. Drink now through 2021. tannins. 250 cases made. medium. Drink now through 2026. framed by light. stony.—B.S. with a sanguine benefit from decanting. showing hints herb flavors accented by mandarin orange peel and ground 89 Camerlengo Basilicata White Accamilla 2013 of zesty grated ginger and slivered almond. with a linear profile and fine tension. Drink now through 2020. 850 cases made. 30. orange peel flavors. lemon parfait. light. 90 La Tunella Friulano Friuli Colli Orientali Col 94 Produttori del Barbaresco Barbaresco Livius 2014 $30 A creamy white.—A. framed by firm. Bright and focused.N. The balance sug- Le Vigne a Capanno 2011 $27 Candied raspberry the finish. Drink olive accents. minerally version that’s tightly knit today.N.—A. ing subtle hints of melon.—A. tightly knit finish. Firm and focused. 2011 $25 A savory red.—A. showing Pora Riserva 2011 $59 Broad and brooding. Hints of smoke and mo. Lingering fin- letum 2011 $25 Tomato leaf and wild herb aromas fragrant finish. Drink now through 2024. minerally vein. lime zest and white peach flavors.—B. Smoke and spice 89 Donato d’Angelo Aglianico del Vulture through 2020. Best from 2019 plumped black cherry. loamy earth. 500 cases gests you could enjoy this now. Medium-bodied and balanced.—A.500 cases made. around grippy tannins. 1. Drink now through finish stretches out. leading to savory leather. 500 cases imported. wild thyme and eucalyptus notes. Rabajà Riserva 2011 $59 A juicy. version that will 96 Produttori del Barbaresco Barbaresco This aging red is still fresh and focused. leather.—A. 2. with Earl Grey tea accents lingering on the finish. Best after 2017. and a long. yet harmonious overall. licorice and spice flavors. with dark and tangy wild berry and subtle notes of yellow plum and apple fruit. firmed by angular tannins and 89 Villa Russiz Friulano Collio 2014 $26 offering tobacco. 750 Aspra 2008 $28 A creamy red. chewy finish. 1. 90 Scarbolo Venezia-Giulia Campo del Viotto Drink now through 2021. with great potential. The richly tarry nose is layered with sun-dried currant. cha show on the firm. with a pronounced streak of salin- ITALY cases made.N. Balanced.N. 91 Camerlengo Aglianico del Vulture 2009 $33 now through 2020. dry. made. but air to a long. nins.N. 700 cases made.354 cases made. this is creamy in texture and tannins adding grip to the long.—A. lemon zest. 160 cases made.—A. smoky finish.S. with taut through 2020.388 cases made.—B.—A. 2033. Medium-bodied and balanced. Drink now $27 Aromatic.N. licorice and 91 Tenuta del Portale Aglianico del Vulture herb and mandarin orange peel notes. Drink now through 2020.N. vor on the palate. mocha and dried Montefico Riserva 2011 $59 Aromatic. with an extremely long finish. framed by chewy 2021. mineral-tinged finish.M. with 94 Produttori del Barbaresco Barbaresco juicy acidity and accents of spice box. Best from 2018 and spice accents on the creamy palate. dried cherry and fig cake notes. with bright acidity and dusty tali 2015 $25 A bright and mouthwatering white. mineral-driven white. Drink A lively. Drink now through 2024.—A. 95 Produttori del Barbaresco Barbaresco 2026.N.950 cases made.and herb-laced flavors of raspberry Friuli—Venezia-Giulia and intense. Well-knit and medium-bodied. picking up a licorice fla- Gricos 2012 $17 Medium-bodied and focused. 2. minerally overtone layered with Well-spiced and lively. with taut tannins wrapped in tannins. Well-knit and lightly chewy. grippy. Drink now through 2019. lead to flavors of strawberry preserves and prune in this made. featuring cassis and dried fig flavors wrapped now through 2020. Cherry. Lean. with smoke and Pajé Riserva 2011 $59 Broad and savory. offering a tactile.—A.000 cases made.N. dusty 89 Villa Russiz Sauvignon Collio 2014 $27 tannins. ture. brine-tinged finish. chervil. 1. 2. with notes of fresh hay. Fleshy in tex.N. chewy finish. Well-knit and lightly juicy throughout. backed by burly tan. through 2032.N. 2009 $29 A juicy red. Medium-bodied.N. with dark plum and cherry tart flavors Riserva 2009 $24 Tarry smoke and spice notes details on the lingering finish.500 cases made.N.—K. and expressive crushed black cherry. 120 cases imported. bittersweet chocolate.S. 90 Elena Fucci Aglianico del Vulture Titolo 2013 ITALY Floral and mineral elements enter the fray as this builds $38 Initially smoky and reduced on the nose. Drink now through 2020. Kosher.N.N.—B. Drink now through 2021. vors. chalk. fresh 91 De Leonardis Aglianico del Vulture Mascu. A sleek.832 cases made. singed orange Piedmont / Barbaresco 91 Lelùsi Aglianico del Vulture 2005 $35 peel and almond. plush red. strawberry and tar notes. spicy red. ity layered with floral hints of apple skin. star anise and singed cases made. Offers a lingering finish. well-knit acidity that enlivens the flavors 89 Villa Russiz Pinot Bianco Collio 2014 $26 of steeped white cherry. Drink 88 De Leonardis Aglianico del Vulture Piano del 95 Produttori del Barbaresco Barbaresco Moro 2011 $18 This shows balance. 2. candied ginger.N. Expressive and balanced. now through 2021. leading to a finish filled with flavors that ripple on the silky palate of this juicy. blossom and candied ginger. with smoke. 90 Vie di Romans Chardonnay Friuli Isonzo 2014 $45 Rich hints of pastry cream and vanilla lace glazed apple.—A. offering a fresh Muncagota Riserva 2011 $59 This is all about finesse. 200 88 Carbone Fiano Basilicata 2013 $21 A subtle.N. Rich and well-meshed. and cream show midpalate.—A. herb notes and fresh earth.—B. 250 cases imported. Zesty on the mouthwatering.—A.S.—A. granate notes. with wild herb.388 cases made. with dried raspberry and pome- harmonious. Notes of chocolate underscore the raspberry compote and sun-dried cherry 3.—A. 500 cases made. presenting a 89 Tenuta Marino Aglianico Basilicata Terra well-spiced. if atypical. Drink now through 2023. presenting a zesty finish.—A.500 cases ish. Best from 2019 through preserves and green olive to come through. mineral-tinged finish.N. minerally base and a fresh mix of green melon. eucalyptus. but there is a firm underly- and plumped cherry notes leap from the glass of this well. with crème de cassis flavors. with mineral and spice ac- cents. 1. offering a smoke-tinged. More about power than fi- lead the way in this muscular red.N. 2013 $46 A silky red that’s supple and well-knit.111 dried marjoram and orange zest. medium-bodied red. tobacco. this supple white 246 cases made. hot stone and smoke notes. Drink now cular Barbaresco packs an oversize frame with black cherry. 90 Vie di Romans Pinot Grigio Friuli Isonzo hints of allspice. Lightly chewy. lemon parfait and almond skin. boasting 90 Madonna delle Grazie Aglianico del Vulture spice notes accenting the glazed apricot. tar and black vasia. Drink now through 2024. minerally finish. mocha the ante with a chalky.—A. yet pure allows the sandalwood. Aglianico. this mus- 91 Terre degli Svevi Aglianico del Vulture Re light tannins on the fruit-forward finish. accented by abundant ground spice and 95 Produttori del Barbaresco Barbaresco wild herb details.625 cases made. 10. with sculpted tan- nins firming the spiced finish.N.—A. with a lasting. Drink now through 2019. Drink now through 2020. 333 Asili Riserva 2011 $59 See Highly Recommended. Round and supple. A balanced.—A. Syrah. toasted pistachio and fleur de sel. 2016 • WINE SPECTATOR 133 . Best from 2018 dried thyme notes in this sanguine red. with smoke and spice A plush. sun-dried cherry and date fla. supported by medium-grained tannins. thyme notes. and Asian five-spice powder. star anise and lemon parfait flavors in this SEPT. Drink now through 2021. edge to the dried cherry. 7. Chewy tannins firm spice flavors permeate the vibrant frame. Sleek and well-knit. savory finish.N. 6. bodied red. on the firm. Fresh and focused.—A. tar. tarry mineral and keeping this balanced and focused. Calice 2012 $23 There’s an old-school vibe to this details linger on the finish. dried elegance and silky texture. Accessible and 88 Tenuta Marino Primitivo Matera Terra Aspra through 2032.N. grilled herb. mocha and spice flavors. but set over sleek tannins that firm the chewy finish. menthol- and tar-flavored red. Drink now through 2028.S. and graphite. show- 91 Carbone Aglianico del Vulture 400 Some A distinctive wine.and tannin-filled finish. enlivened by well-meshed ITALY 90 Cantina di Venosa Aglianico del Vulture acidity.N.N. cherry-. Drink now a well-spiced profile of glazed apple and apricot fruit. Basilicata Gesualdo 2011 $40 Dried fig and aged balsamic hints are layered with crushed black cherry and mocha notes 89 Poggiobello Pinot Grigio Friuli Colli Orien- 93 San Martino Aglianico del Vulture Kamai in this medium-bodied red.—A. Best from 2018 through grilled herb.—A. cases made. The terrific finish echoes the fruit and ups knit red. Drink now through 2021. 1. offering a subtle finish that echoes a cured tobacco note.500 cases made.—A.—A.500 offers delicate notes of glazed apple. Excellent length. with sleek acidity A sweet fruit essence offsets the dense tannins. this has fine grip sleek tannins and well-spiced flavors of raspberry puree. dried orange peel pink peppercorn notes. offering 90 Grifalco della Lucania Aglianico del Vulture thyme layered with sappy sun-dried black cherry and cherry. Drink now through 2024. 400 cases imported. while the aromatics accent raspberry compote. this offers aromatic eucalyptus and medicinal Lithe and light-bodied. orchard cases made.500 cases made. 833 cases made. Liscone 2010 $18 Lavender and dusty ground spice lemon curd flavors.to medium-bodied and well-knit white.N. underscoring flavors of nesse. dried thyme 88 Mastrodomenico Basilicata Mos 2012 $19 through 2035. 250 cases imported. offering a spiced finish. Best from 2017 through 2026. page 119. Merlot. this elegant Sauvignon shows a cases made. red licorice and dried through 2021. with 2011 $48 A grippy red. with light tannins on the lingering. Mal.N.—A. Drink now suggesting more to come in the future.666 cases made. mix of dried cranberry and cherry fruit. New Releases: Israel / Italy 89 Recanati Reserve Upper Galilee 2014 $40 90 Tenuta del Portale Aglianico del Vulture well-knit white. Manfredi Serpara 2010 $49 Tar and smoke notes through 2020.

guava and star fruit 2032. The finish is austere now.—A.S. rich and slightly oily white.916 cases 91 Tenuta San Leonardo Vigneti delle Dolomiti long aftertaste echoes the flavors. tactile feel on the cases made. juicy red.200 cases made. Drink now 700 cases made.N. showing hints of orange zest and star an. 2. smoky speck. tar and spice flavors. rich and juicy. honeydew melon and ground ginger ish. 1. with cherry and plum flavors 16. melon.—B.—B. ITALY Piedmont / Other monte 2013 $18 An expressive. wiry red. cases made.300 cases made. with chewy tannins on the finish.to medium-bodied knit and enlivened by vibrant acidity. 216 cases made. Best from 2018 through 2030. ITALY Drink now through 2020. 200 medium-bodied package.—B. Drink now through 2018. well-spiced red. Drink now through 2019. chalky underpinning. Balanced and long. Drink now through bodied version. 87 Malabaila di Canale Favorita Langhe 2014 90 Elena Walch Gewürztraminer Alto Adige 93 Produttori del Barbaresco Barbaresco $16 Offers a floral aroma.to medium-bodied potential but needs time. acidity in this light-bodied. with a rich.N. 400 cases made.000 cases granita. 89 Malabaila di Canale Roero Arneis 2015 $16 grippy frame and a minerally underpinning. 1. stone. but 2013 $125 A bit reticent. 1. long and complex.300 cases made. guides the lingering aftertaste. this harmonious red cherry.N.S. Drink now through 2021. balancing bright acidity with a stony underpin- an earthy. with crème de cassis and raspberry pâte from 2017 through 2030. pink grapefruit 2015 $16 Aromatic. and ground ginger are complemented by zippy just needs time to integrate fully. 1. tobacco and tea accents on the lingering fin. 93 Produttori del Barbaresco Barbaresco Sicily 90 Elena Walch Lagrein Alto Adige Castel Ringberg Riserva 2011 $45 A tightly knit version. with flavors of peach and Vigna Kastelaz 2015 $35 Dry and juicy. 1.and strawberry.—B.—B. 87 Bollini Chardonnay Trentino Barricato 40 Floral top notes are grounded by cherry. A dense grid of now. this shows Ovello Riserva 2011 $59 A peppery. lychee.000 cases made. with a racy. rose and glazed pink anced and fresh. 93 Albino Rocca Barbaresco Montersino 2012 term aging. Fresh and focused.—A.—A. 93 Marco & Vittorio Adriano Barbaresco Basa- 89 Monchiero Carbone Roero Arneis Recit 2014 finish. this light. baked black currant and eucalyptus.N. Long. Zesty finish. lime blossom. 11. plum. $15 A mellow. 3. 833 cases made. revealing Dolomiti 2015 $16 This zesty white is light-bodied Hints of candied lemon zest. Trentino-Alto Adige firm. beefy tannins shore up the fin. 2016 .—A. Best from 2017 through 2024.—A. licorice. The with the emphasis on the fruit. Drink now. Light-bodied and fresh. Nero d’Avola. intense red. smoky minerality focusing this into a clean-cut.833 cases made. 1. with a stony. 10. 30. spice. yet also bright and fresh.—A.S.to medium-bodied ing sweet fruit and licorice details. this sports cherry. Best from 2018 through acidity frame fresh flavors of melon. basil and pickled ginger. Very elegant. now through 2018.—B. bresaola and smoke notes.—B. Juicy yet intense. Drink now. 89 Pecchenino Dogliani finish. cherry.—A. with orange blossom and spice zest. light.S. Grippy. vibrant structure in this elegant. Thai de fruit flavors.000 cases made. lemon curd and exotic spice are set in a sleek. 900 cases made. lemon parfait and hints of fresh tarragon. Shows all the components.000 cases made. 833 cases made. 1. Cabernet Sauvignon and Mer- 89 Elena Walch Pinot Bianco Alto Adige $46 Aromas of rose.250 cases made. 29. Dense.S. 2020. 94 Antinori Bolgheri Superiore Guado al Tasso and concentrated. this offers grilled herb.S.—A. Best and fruit-forward. melon and grapefruit flavors. well- Siciliane Purato 2015 $13 Light. rant and herb flavors married to a supple texture and fine- this plays out long and complex on the minerally. tinged mineral in this well-knit. intense and blackberry.000 cases made.—A.382 cases made. Firmly tannic. while the juicy texture made. Merlot with Carmenère. briar and with spice and smoke notes on the finish. Though firm and made. leathery accents on the fin.S. minerally element emerges as the firm structure plum preserves. silky berry-laced aftertaste.—A. grated ginger notes and lively and floral. Superiore Bricco Botti 2013 93 Produttori del Barbaresco Barbaresco $43 Saturated with dark fruit. grated ginger and ground ripe black currant and Earl Grey tea flavors. Villa Gresti 2009 $52 Well-knit and savory. Drink now through 2020.000 cases made. Shows a firm.380 cases made.—A. Drink now. spiced finish. show- 90 Firriato Perricone Sicilia Ribeca 2012 $42 fruit is framed by vivacious acidity and a streak of smoke- There’s good length and density to this medium.—B. along 90 Pecchenino Dogliani San Luigi 2015 Black cherry.—A.S. 87 Firriato Grillo Sicilia Altavilla della Corte 2015 $13 Lively flavors of Gala apple. cured tobacco and licorice drop. tarry underpinning and flavors of sun-dried cherry Tuscany / Bolgheri 90 Nervi Gattinara Molsino 2009 $80 Rich and cranberry. with white 93 Marco & Vittorio Adriano Barbaresco Sana. rin 2012 $27 See Highly Recommended. Best from 2018 tobacco aromas and flavors.S. Drink now through 2020. 1. Ovello 2012 $57 Bright acidity defines this red. 5. Owners & Winemakers version features a lasting finish of orchard blossom and 1. offering a smoky underpinning and 2025.N. spicy style.N. 216 cases made.—B. layers aromas and flavors of ripe cherry. cherry and rose aromas and flavors.N. Cabernet Sauvignon. The long finish shows promise. presenting a linger- showing hints of ground anise and dried orange peel. made. Rich and densely structured. ning and flavors of Honeycrisp apple and blood orange in this light-bodied white. ishes clean and mouthwatering. ATTILIO.200 cases made. cur. 800 cases 2017 through 2030. 92 Sottimano Barbaresco Fausoni 2013 $58 made. Offers a mouthwatering finish and light tannins. enliven this pretty red. with firm tannins that offer expressive notes of crushed with chewy tannins wrapped in fleshy flavors of damson black currant. Thai basil. with licorice.N. The tannins are gruff 87 Feudo Maccari Grillo Terre Siciliane 2015 $18 88 Tiefenbrunner Pinot Grigio Vigneti delle in this muscular style. New Releases: Italy 94 Albino Rocca Barbaresco Ronchi 2012 $52 Textbook aromas and flavors of rose.—A. this 90 St. 50. Vibrant acidity keeps this elegant.—B.S. Shows ish. boysenberry and violet candy flavors mark $22 ITALY with shadings of tobacco and mineral. Drink 2013 $38 Lovely on the nose. Bright and pink peppercorn lace the finish. aromatic finish. Drink now through 2023. Rio Sordo Riserva 2011 $59 A fresh. Fine length. 400 cases made. harmonious red that should open up with some air or short. A 90 Ceuso Sicilia 2011 $42 Creamy and well-knit.—A. dusty tannins and minerally underpinning and an aromatic mix of ripe white aromas and flavors. tar and cherry. dried cherry. MARINO peach.S. yet with a core of concentrated sweet fruit. with black cherry. 1.666 cases made.N. Accents of lemon zest. 134 WINE SPECTATOR • SEPT. vibrant finish that lingers with a push of fruit and spice. Drink now through 93 Sottimano Barbaresco Pajoré 2013 $58 ise. spice and underbrush backed by dense. Kristallberg 2015 $25 Ripe pineapple and nectarine licorice and spice.—B. 91 Elena Walch Pinot Nero Alto Adige Ludwig daive 2012 $32 Big. shaling the currant. mar. white. Best from 2019 through 2033.000 cases made. 93 Albino Rocca Barbaresco Vigna Loreto focused. with a long. with a enhances them. saline finish.S. mineral. lip-smacking white.N. Drink now. Predominantly Chardonnay. black currant. dried lavender and crushed salty. lingering finish. leather.—B.to full. Shows vibrant acidity on the finish.S. with notes of peach and flowers equilibrium in time. A ing.and tobacco-infused aftertaste. which remains minerally. 70. page 119. black cur- through 2021. this red exhibits this finishes with juicy accents of sage and lime. dried tannins offers support as this builds to a long.-Michael-Eppan Sauvignon Alto Adige Montestefano Riserva 2011 $59 Lean. plum. Drink now. offering flavors of pink grapefruit granita and Thai 2018 through 2028. strawberry and spice in this firm. this offers green on the long. this exudes cherry. 2015 $19 Perfumed. Finely knit and fresh.—B.N.S. Drink now. with well-knit racy acidity and accented by apple hints.N. leather and tobacco flavors. eucalyptus.—B. through 2022. The tannins are a bit stiff. the tannins are offset with enough fruit and density for balance. tar and black pepper aromas the grape’s typical spice. Bal- displays cherry. accent- 94 Sottimano Barbaresco Currá 2012 $75 ing the core of peach and honeydew melon flavors. ITALY 87 Firriato Nero d’Avola Terre Siciliane Chiara. 3.—B. but this will find 89 Malabaila di Canale Roero Arneis Pradvaj 2014 $65 Rich flavors of baked pineapple. this white pepper. Earl Grey tea.000 cases made. earthy. combine with a this pretty.N.—B. grained tannins. Shows excellent purity and intensity.N. while the finish fades gracefully. Best from 2018 through 2032. fruity version. but this will need a few years to flesh out.—A. Drink now through 2024. 87 Feudo di Santa Tresa Nero d’Avola Terre 89 Elena Walch Sauvignon Alto Adige Vigna Mineral and tobacco accents chime in as this plays out Castel Ringberg 2015 $28 A creamy white.040 cases made. grapefruit flavors. Drink now through 2021. Offers a tightly woven fabric permeated by cherry.S. Fin. Best from pink peppercorn.N.—A. 18. and accents of tar. mineral and abundant ground spice with supple tannins and fresh acidity. 583 & ORLANDO PECCHENINO flavors. cherry and tar. tobacco and tea.S.S.N. A grapefruit peel note lends a touch of bitterness. peach. 833 cases made. eucalyptus and tobacco flavors.500 cases rant. Best from 2018 through 2028.—B. with a petrol underpinning and a and flavors. along with hints of lot. Best from notes. presenting a citrusy finish. Best from 2019 through 2035. Balanced and intense. ish. tobacco-tinged finish. Drink basil. Best from 2018 through 2024.111 cases made.and plum-infused red is Sanct Valentin 2015 $37 A creamy white. 91 Elena Walch Alto Adige Beyond the Clouds dusty.

S. plum Still showing some oak. if dusty. toasted oak accents are well. Col- infused aftertaste. Drink now through 2025. Sangiovese and Merlot. featur. accentuated by herb. the dense tannins to soften. cherry flavor in this expressive.S. Mammolo. culminat- support as this remains fresh and long on the mineral. integrated. Sangio- aftertaste as the vibrant structure lends support.500 cases imported. 93 Luce della Vite Toscana Luce 2013 $125 bacco notes. Best from A sheen of resinous oak casts an accent over the black nins.—B. 750 cases imported. The spicy. Dense and capped by dusty.—B. Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc. brooding style. ernet Sauvignon and Sangiovese. intense red. Best from 2017 through ernet Franc.—B. Firm tannins ing in a long finish. Refined tannins provide Aromas of graphite. black cherry. Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. 200 cases imported. Gains harmony and elegance with air.—B. Intense and hints of earth and tobacco.—B. tobacco and earth flavors. Sangiovese. this red exhibits blackberry. licorice and Dense and beefy. Cabernet Sauvignon. cocoalike SEPT.500 cases made. chewy red. juicy red.—B. Drink now mineral are the hallmarks of this polished. Cabernet Sauvignon. 1. ITALY 2020. nins.S. made. tobacco and tea flavors are ing ripe black cherry and blackberry notes. boasting black cherry.S. long. with fine overall balance and expression.—B. Best from 2017 through 2027. 1. tight and racy version. Best from 2018 through 2029. spice and earth flavors. 206 cases made. cedary finish. Offers an 94 Querciabella Toscana Turpino 2011 $60 along with plum. linear 2024. All the 2018 through 2027. $60 A veneer of oak adds tannins to the black cherry black cherry. 2. 2. 92 Ca’ Marcanda Bolgheri Camarcanda 2012 2. Cabernet Sauvignon. Mer. smoke and tobacco introduce the tannins. Merlot. cedar. dense red.S.—B. Merlot and Syrah. Syrah and Merlot. spice and mineral elements all gather steam as this Sangiovese. Cabernet Sauvignon. A light. made. cherry and plum fruit in this powerful. this red now through 2023.S. 92 Altesino Toscana Alte d’Altesi 2013 $40 Cont’Ugo 2013 $60 An opulent. 2027. 890 cases sophisticated red. tar and earth 94 Antinori Toscana Tignanello 2013 $105 cherry. 500 cases imported. with persistent the requisite fruit. The vibrant structure imparts a crisp feel. iron and tobacco notes. Pugnitello. and lively acidity balance the fruit and purity. backed by dusty combine in this dense. 2016 • WINE SPECTATOR 135 . Ciliegiolo. Cabernet Franc. pure version. 15. wild herb and cedar flavors are frame. this offers floral. 92 Querciabella Toscana Camartina 2011 $150 $135 A dark. and spice flavors.S.000 cases imported. plays out on the long finish. Enticing aromas and flavors of cherry.S. Best from 2018 through 90 Canneto Toscana Filippone 2012 $40 The This is tightly wound and dense. leather. Muscular tannins and black currant fruit. vignon and Cabernet Franc.S. herbal. set on a sleek. Shows terrific length and a 90 Ornellaia Bolgheri Le Serre Nuove 2013 $78 complex aftertaste. Malvasia Nera. Beautifully balanced.—B. components are in the right place. Drink now through 2024. Drink now through 2023.S. muscular tan- gnon. Graphite and blackberry aromas lead off in this complex. Sanforte. concentrated and balanced. Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot.—B. 16 cases imported. leather.600 cases imported. Best from 2018 89 Antinori Bolgheri Tenuta Guado al Tasso Il dusting of tannins lines the lingering finish.400 cases imported. blackberry.—B. Aromas and flavors of black currant. Canaiolo. Best from 2017 through 2024. 91 Capezzana Toscana Ghiaie della Furba 2012 Dense and tightly wound. iron and to- hold down the compact. Firm but has Black currant. Bruciato 2014 $31 A bright. Merlot. with well. with a long finish. Drink now through through 2023. 330 cases made.S. Tuscany / Toscana 92 Badia a Coltibuono Toscana Montebello 2011 93 Tenuta Sette Cieli Bolgheri NOI4 2013 $42 $60 A lean. Petit Ver.S. The flavors linger on the spicy Best from 2017 through 2024. plum. Merlot.—B. Balanced. Sangiovese and Merlot.S. 3 cases imported. integrated. yet the matched to a dense matrix in this muscular red. Cabernet Sau. New Releases: Italy Merlot.S.S. accented by pleasantly woven oak spice here. Needs a little more 90 Podere Sapaio Bolgheri Superiore 2012 $69 time. with hints of resin and vanilla.—B.100 cases 667 cases made. 100 cases imported. Drink now through now or age another year. underscored by dense tannins.—B. blackberry. Petit Verdot and Cab. Fogliatonda and dot and Cabernet Franc. while orino. but requires a little more time for 2023. Cab- lot. currant and spice flavors.—B. Drink through 2027. Best from 2019 through 2029. sweet black cherry and blackberry fruit needs time to be 93 Querciabella Toscana Palafreno 2012 $189 this needs food or a little bottle aging to soften the tan- teased out. Cabernet Sauvi. Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot.S. tannins lining the finish. 93 Antinori Bolgheri Tenuta Guado al Tasso evokes cherry. Decant vese.—B. 30. finishing long and concentrated. focused red. Merlot. Syrah and Merlot. enticing mix of power and finesse.

Needs a year to absorb the oak. This is bright.S. 87 Ornellaia Toscana Le Volte 2014 $31 A fluid. Drink now through 2021. tobacco and earth flavors. Sangiovese. Sangiovese. Shows fine 92 Valdonica Monteregio di Massa Marittima $50 A pure beam of ripe black cherry is woven with intensity and a lingering finish. with black cherry. 650 cases finish. thyme. chewy red is fresh and through 2018. Drink now. NEW ZEALAND through 2023. long finish. 250 87 Zeni Valpolicella Superiore Marogne Ripasso cases made. tobacco. Sangiovese and Cabernet so. Drink now. Drink now.—B. orange zest.800 cases made. but needs Intense aromas and flavors of black currant. layering black currant and boysenberry fruit 2010 $55 Fresh and focused. Sangiovese. Sangiovese and Merlot. dark chocolate. 89 Il Molino di Grace Chianti Classico 2013 $23 ing a streak of pronounced minerality that expands with 84 Santa Cristina Toscana 2014 $12 Cranberry A fluid. Drink now through 2028.—B.N. with a light dusting of tannins and fine 91 Vincenzo Ippolito Cirò Colli del Mancuso length. Dense.and spice-tinged after- taste. plum and tar flavors enveloped in a dense mineral and dried fig. dried cherry. but there are shad. 90 Tenuta Valdipiatta Vino Nobile di Montep. Drink now through Tralcetto 2014 $16 Light. Gains purity in 92 Castello di Monsanto Chianti Classico Il $32 A dense red.800 cases made. framed by chewy ulciano 2013 $30 A bright.S. dusty tannins line the finish. inky style. medium- Toscana Ammiraglia Massovivo 2015 $18 This is made. dusty tannins reign finish. leather.S. tobacco accents. Bal.—A. Accents of strawberry.S. Drink now. 84 Capezzana Barco Reale di Carmignano 2014 of clove and fresh earth details. $15 On the lean. featuring sweet cherry. Vibrant.S. From Umbria. ITALY anced.500 cases imported. 2026.S. 10. with black cherry. Best from 2017 on the savory finish. 2014 $10 Dark and brambly. page 121.S. The bright fruit needs a light chill. turning firm on the long finish. 2006 $55 At or close to maturity. picking up a touch of grapefruit on the finish. Vermentino. 185 cases imported. 250 cases imported. fruity red. boasting cherry. Sangiovese. This gets better with air. tea rose and herbed olive. 3. leather and underbrush aromas.078 cases made. 200 cases 900 cases imported. the palate. tensile side. yet with plenty of per. 1. balanced red. From Calabria. showing fine balance and a long.—A.—B. Merlot.—B. juicy.—B. Firmly now through 2018. Drink now through 2023. juicy blackberry is the hallmark of this effusive red. page 121. Fresh and focused. with bright acidity leading to a moder. 6. bodied and juicy.000 cases imported. plum.000 cases made. New Releases: Italy / New Zealand 90 Marchesi de’ Frescobaldi Toscana Tenuta di Castiglioni 2013 $25 See Smart Buys. 100 cases imported. melon and subtle orange peel 2024.S. Sangio. $21 Black cherry is the main flavor theme in this rich. Drink now through 2020. Lingers with a hint of grapefruit on the Barbaspinosa 2012 $23 A dark. date bread and vanilla bean flavors that $22 The smoky cherry. with cherry.—B.N. is harmonious and fresh. min.—B. this red 136 WINE SPECTATOR • SEPT.N.000 cases imported.S. spice. focused. imported. 45 cases imported. with sleek 87 Antinori Toscana White Villa Antinori 2015 90 Moris Farms Monteregio di Massa Marittima tannins and fresh acidity.500 cases made. the finish. Best from 2017 through 2023. with spicy oak.—B.to full-bodied red. anise and spice flavors. Drink now 91 Castello di Monsanto Chianti Classico Riserva 2012 $32 This dense. dis- tinctive red.—B.S. offering a refined structure and lingering after- Poggio Riserva 2011 $55 A mix of graphite. Balanced and elegant.583 cases Fracia 2013 $41 A vibrant. 89 Tenuta Valdipiatta Vino Nobile di Montep. The finish is juicy.—B. Merlot.N. spicy and sanguine finish.W. leather and tobacco flavors.—B. ulciano Vigna d’Alfiero 2013 $45 A dense.—M.—B. Petit Verdot. through 2026. Decant now or age for a year or 2014 $19 A grippy red. olive and herb. earth and iron flavors allied to a dense. with a long. 93 Rocca di Fabbri Montefalco Sagrantino 2011 The harmony and texture of this red sets the pace for cherry. Tuscany / Other through 2020. 89 Cataldo Calabretta Cirò Classico Superiore cherry-laced red. strawberry and raspberry fruit add depth. 9. 9. 5. dusty tannins on the lingering aftertaste. Drink ITALY yet with grip on the moderately long finish. 50 cases made. baking spices and buttered pastry.—B. with aromatic spice and graphite notes and tight- 89 Luce della Vite Toscana Lucente 2014 $30 90 Capezzana Carmignano Villa di Capezzana knit flavors of crushed currant and Earl Grey tea.—B. which lingers effortlessly. ending with structured and linear. 5. 5. juicy.—B. with a core of dried fig. balanced by a minerally underpinning. Stays fresh from 2018 through 2024. Drink now through 2018. boasting peach. 450 cases imported. 6. 400 cases imported. spice box.N. eral and spice aromas and flavors. on the finish. strawberry. From Umbria.—A. 30. this red exhibits 2015 $10 Ripe.—A. offering peach. 93 Capezzana Carmignano Villa di Capezzana 87 Moris Farms Maremma Toscana Mandriolo a well-knit palate. me- mark this rich. 2. 90 Vincenzo Ippolito Gaglioppo-Cabernet 2.000 cases imported. matrix of tannins. Best from 2020 through 90 Querciabella Toscana White Batàr 2013 $90 sonality. Best toast and spice highlight this concentrated red. 2012 $27 Starts out beefy. leather. spice and tea flavors. 450 cases made. with fleshy.000 cases made. 85. Minerally aftertaste. but this and focused on the finish. 166.000 cases made.—B.—A. 87 Castello di Volpaia Chianti Classico 2014 95 Felton Road Pinot Noir Central Otago 92 La Braccesca Syrah Cortona Achelo 2014 $21 A focused beam of pure cherry fits the racy profile Cornish Point 2014 $80 Generous and expressive. black the glass. tea. cedar. Harmonious overall.N. with a vibrant structure driving the air. A bright and expressive red. Compact and balanced.—B. 850 cases made. grainy version. this juicy white. This will take some time for the full potential and now through 2018. with iron. Trebbiano. Cab. Balanced. cherry. A delicate skein of spice unrav- $14 A mix of floral. Dense. fruity. Firm yet bal. presenting a Blanc. Sangiovese and Cabernet 90 Nino Negri Valtellina Superiore Vigneto 87 Marchesi de’ Frescobaldi Vermentino Sauvignon. Drink now through 2018. picking up cherry and plum notes on time in the cellar to shine. 2. vese. 1. earth and tobacco flavors. From Veneto. Becomes more savory. raspberry. Drink now through 635 cases imported.—B. with a juicy mix of wild straw- berry.—B. with a long finish of spice and tobacco.S. 125. Gaglioppo.400 cases made. of this linear red. Best from 2018 through 2021. juicy red. tannins and a tarry underpinning. Easy-drinking and fresh. show- Sauvignon. 1.000 cases imported. Cabernet Sauvignon and Canaiolo.—A. 89 Rocca di Fabbri Montefalco 2013 $17 ernet Sauvignon. boasting black cherry. Everything comes together with an accent of black pepper. this is medium-bodied 94 Capezzana Carmignano Trefiano Riserva ino 2013 $24 This fresh version starts out with a briny and juicy. flavors and spicy oak nuances.—B. Drink now through 2020. tightly knit to firm. with spice and smoke notes underscoring the crushed 93 Valdonica Ciliegiolo Maremma Toscana 2012 87 Mormoraia Vernaccia di San Gimignano boysenberry and raspberry fruit. 86 Ciccio Zaccagnini Montepulciano d’Abruzzo Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. Pinot Grigio made. Balanced. Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. oily texture. cherry-laced red.300 cases made. Dusty tannins line red. with tightly knit flavors of ately long conclusion. Gaglioppo.N. 500 cases imported. this balanced red offers imported. range to show.S.S. From Lombardy. peach and melon flavors highlights els through the flavors of raspberry pâte de fruit.S. revealing a meaty element. cascading finish. Drink now 89 Castiglion del Bosco Toscana Dainero 2013 anced. 2018.S. Balanced and enjoyable now. tea and tobacco with spiced plum. Drink now through 2019. Drink elegant.—A. Drink now. velvety tannins and plenty takes on mineral and tobacco notes in this elegant. Riserva 2011 $36 Settling into a sweet spot. dusty tannins.S. apple and almond flavors. Pinot Blanc.N. Drink 92 Canneto Vino Nobile di Montepulciano now through 2018.S.to medium-bodied and through 2023. with dense. so decant now. Drink seashore note. Drink now through 2018.—B. Merlot and Syrah. 166 cases made. red licorice. On the rustic side.667 cases made.S. Riserva 2013 $25 See Smart Buys.S. leather and dium.S. Drink now ings of spice. $60 Rich and saturated. spiced taste. Drink now. From Calabria.—B. Picks up a saline note on the finish. 9. Best from 2018 through 2027. 91 Arnaldo Caprai Montefalco Riserva 2010 gaining harmony with air. this offers crushed raspberry.—B. with notes of kirsch.000 cases made. Drink now now through 2024.S. dusty tannins and tarry cherry and raspberry flavors are the highlights of this minerality.S. cedar. Best from 2017 through 2023. 87 San Lorenzo Montepulciano d’Abruzzo Gru 89 Valdonica Maremma Toscana White Ballar. Ostrea 2015 $19 Offers peachy fruit flavors and a rich. on the finish.N. spice and smoke. Drink now through 2020.—B.685 cases imported. Perhaps not that complex. cherry.N. are rich and ripe.—A. 2014 $16 Subtle and creamy. firm structure. graphite. mineral and star anise notes set in a lightly tannic frame. Calabria I Mori 2014 $35 An elegant red. Chardonnay and Pinot Baciòlo Riserva 2012 $42 Fine depth and intensity black olive and cured tobacco accents in this chewy. currant. Drink now through 2020. spice and graphite. but decant now or cellar for a year or two. 2016 .S. with light tannins and hints of graphite and mocha. firmly structured red. Drink now Other Red 90 Querciabella Toscana Mongrana 2013 $25 through 2022. sweet mineral. with plum. and currant notes permeate the fleshy texture in this juicy cherry. From Umbria. earth and licorice aromas and flavors.S. mineral. Shows serious. earth and tobacco. plum. well-knit red. has complexity and persistence. Bright and balanced overall.S. spice and underbrush aromas and flavors. 300 cases a savory hint. picking up flavors of spiced apple. Drink now through 2030. firm.—A.—A. Balanced and integrated. The beam of fruit persists through the and Riesling. Malvasia.333 cases made. with apple and almond notes as this lingers building to a long.—B.

93 Felton Road Pinot Noir Central Otago Block 5 2014 $100 Rich and plush. Fresh and minerally on the finish. floral and melon that linger. mango Drink now.—M. cases made.—K.W. 2020 through 2030.—M. 2. floral and herbal edge to the 93 Felton Road Pinot Noir Central Otago citrus and green apple flavors. 2026.M.—K. 30.000 cases imported. Drink now. loaded with Asian spice notes. 5.W. Open knit. vibrant acidity on the finish. with plenty of precision light and refreshing. Hints of pepper linger on the crisp finish. 89 Delaforce Tawny Port 10 Year Old His Eminence’s Choice NV $30 Fresh and minerally. 2.000 cases made. 90 Delaforce Tawny Port 20 Year Old Curious & Ancient NV $60 Features loads of slate and flinty 88 Giesen Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough 2015 accents to the butterscotch. imparting a soft. 95 Sandeman Tawny Port 30 Year Old NV $85 Citrus zest accents provide a zesty backdrop to the lush.W. now.W. Accents of 97 Graham Tawny Port 90 NV $1.W.000 cases made.W. Drink now. with plum tart and cherry pie flavors that feature some ough 2015 $14 Peppery white flower notes add an tangerine hints. ripe finish. tobacco and sage notes of sea salt.—K. 995 cases made. Hints of dried green herbs and ce- 2015 $17 There’s an edge of chamomile and floral to dar show on the finish. 613 and rich.W. and passion fruit flavors. 3. Drink now.500 cases made. exhibiting complex notes of clay.W. 9.—M.W.M. 91 Sandeman Tawny Port 10 Year Old NV $30 Rich and supple. 25. with Key lime pie. SEPT. hazelnut and creamy white $15 Melon. with hints of green olive. Drink now. nutty notes cases imported. 90 Real Companhia Velha Late Bottled Port Royal Oporto 2011 $20 Rich and juicy.—K. with cocoa powder 2015 $12 There’s a tangy appeal to the lemon and lime notes. white chocolate black tea and star anise. showing intensity on the finish. lingering finish.M. Drink now. sherbet flavors. where a touch of tomato leaf lingers. 3. Drink now through 2022.000 cases made. 200 cases details. offering creamy flavors of hazelnut. deeply spiced flavors of plum tart.M. 87 13 Celsius Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough with fresh minerality.—M.—K.W. 13. Shows plenty of intensity and per- sistence on the finish.W.—M.000 cases made. and a lingering. Comes together in harmony imported. Intense and juicy on the finish. Drink 93 Sandeman Tawny Port 20 Year Old NV $52 now through 2030. rich and elegant.M. 89 Giesen Pinot Gris Marlborough 2015 $15 Drink now. Drink now. with dark cherry and plum tart flavors. Melon ish. 12.000 Savory mocha and pine linger.000 cases imported.—M.—M. Complex and pure. with creamy.000 cases imported. 5. 87 Clos Henri Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough Petit Clos 2015 $16 There’s a touch of flint and min- erality to the citrus and tropical fruit flavors. to the dried plum and cherry tart flavors. offering wild 2015 $15 The lemongrass.—M. lemongrass and lime chocolate accents that linger on the finish alongside firm zest flavors show an air of elegance. dark plum and ish. slate and honey to the cases made. Drink now. raspberry flavors.M. 21. refreshing body.M.000 cases made.930 cases made. Hints of 89 Goldwater Sauvignon Blanc Wairau Valley dried mint show on dark chocolate–filled finish.—K.000 cases imported.—K. delicate.W.M. Fresh and vi.—M. Fragrant and refreshing on the finish. 4. juicy finish.000 the apple and citrus flavors. nutmeg and white pepper. Winemaker butterscotch.500 cases made.000 92 Sandeman Tawny Port 40 Year Old NV $140 A rich and smoky style. 45. notes and minerality highlight the finish. 800 cases MATT STAFFORD Broad. Drink now.000 cases made. Lush and spicy on the long.M.—M. Tangy and juicy on the fin- Bannockburn 2014 $65 Bay leaf. this is loaded 88 Innocent Bystander Sauvignon Blanc Marl.—K.—M. 87 Frenzy Sauvignon Blanc South Island 2015 $14 There’s a pungent. honeysuckle and pear flavors are fragrant fruit flavors. 2016 • WINE SPECTATOR 137 . toasted coconut and hazelnut. 2. Best from 2015 $20 The lemon-lime flavors are vibrant and juicy. supple flavors of imported.W. 89 Osborne Late Bottled Port 2010 $24 Fruity. Seductive. with plenty of roasted.W. lingering with a note of dried 87 Lawson’s Dry Hills Sauvignon Blanc Marl- borough 2015 $17 Shows good intensity to the robust lavender on the long.800 cases imported. Drink now. with fresh-cut grass details and a note of lemon verbena. accented by and café au lait.000 cases imported. and peach details linger on the juicy finish. Drink now. melon and lime flavors are strawberry and raspberry flavors. with fleshy cherry and plum flavors that have plenty of charm.—M. with a crisp edge on the finish. featuring flavors of raspberry jam and chocolate mousse. $15 Vivid and lip-smacking. Drink now. with plum compote. Elegant and complex. Drink now. with juicy flavors of peach. with firm acidity. Fresh herb Drink now. offering details PORTUGAL of vanilla custard. The luscious finish is loaded with spice and cocoa details. Sea salt and flint details show on the fin- aromatic edge to the lime and grapefruit flavors. elegant note.—M.—K. with a touch of crunchy green apple and 1.—M. The powerfully 89 Satellite Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough 2015 spicy finish shows tangerine and dried apricot accents. with a long yet fresh fin- 92 Craggy Range Pinot Noir ish that echoes with pistachio and dried green herbal ac- Martinborough Te Muna Road cents. offering a honeysuckle detail on the long fin- 92 Quinta das Carvalhas Vintage Port 2013 $60 Features plenty of grip to the blackberry. Drink now. and elegant. Drink to the white pepper and fresh earth notes. 88 Echo Bay Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough Christmas pudding and ripe cherry. expressive finish. Drink now through roasted lemon. rich and creamy flavors of butterscotch. 4.000 cases made. on the long. crunchy green apple and grapefruit flavors. Vineyard Single Vineyard 2013 $46 Creamy and supple-textured. 30. apricot and chocolate. New Releases: New Zealand / Portugal 94 Felton Road Pinot Noir Central Otago 87 Dashwood Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough Calvert 2014 $80 Plush and elegant. 7.M.000 cases made. floor notes add an intriguing. juniper and forest ish. 200 cases imported. set on a light. Drink now through 2026. Drink now.—M. Drink now.W.—M. 88 Tussock Jumper Sauvignon Blanc Marlbor. Drink now. Finishes juicy. brant.—K. showing plenty of borough 2015 $15 Vivid pear. 2. Drink now through 2026. with a supple texture minerality.W. 42 cases made.000 cases made. 5. fresh green edge to the juicy cherry and cranberry flavors.

2018. with dried orange peel. Shows good old-school char. blue. ished structure and backed by mocha and dark licorice 90 Klein Constantia Constantia Red 2014 $27 mas pudding. 92 Spice Route Malabar Swartland 2012 $74 92 Beeslaar Wines Pinotage Stellenbosch 2014 A lush. Shiraz.607 cases 92 Anthonij Rupert Syrah Franschhoek 2009 Other $80 Mature. Drink now through 2020. Drink now through Vineyard 2012 $97 A ripe. boysenberry. For adding range. ernet Sauvignon. polished style. The long.—J. showing superb energy throughout. Petit Verdot. 95 Porseleinberg Swartland 2014 $100 This Verdot.—J. with fully melded. 150 cases imported. by light pepper. Cabernet Franc.M. bosch Reserve 2013 $65 A solid old-school version. Drink now through 2018. fruit. lied to a solid graphite spine that drives the finish.—J.—J. page 123. but this is aimed at the fruit-bomb crowd.000 cases made. with perfumy lift to the core of rasp- loamy spine carries the finish. licorice and singed apple wood notes. cases made. Cab. Offers An iron edge underscores the elegant finish. Cabernet Sauvignon.M. senberry fruit flavors to glide along. boysenberry and blackberry fruit flavors all pump- Mature. Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit through 2020. Relies a bit more on from 2018 through 2027. with coffee.M. but pulls it off. cinnamon. The sleek.500 cases made.M.M.M.504 cases made. fruit-driven style. black currant and blackberry confiture.—J. 250 cases imported. 500 cases made. while the unctuous fruit sails through. laced with anise. plum and boysenberry fruit flavors that are wonder. focused through the finish. Tannat and winey. while the finish ripples with acidity. well-mulled Merlot. Drink now through 2020.M. while hints of bay and singed bittersweet cocoa. augmented by notes of singed spice and black tea. Merlot and Petit 93 Cirrus Syrah Stellenbosch 2012 $43 87 Boekenhoutskloof The Wolftrap Red Gorgeously ripe and still very youthful. lithe and seriously long.—J. Lovely loam and tobacco details echo through the finish. $28 This has depth but stays on the elegant side.M.—J. 466 cases made. Drink now through effect to the core of lightly steeped black cherry and plum through 2020. gliding over anise and black tea notes. loamy energy and definition.M.—J.M. Cabernet Sauvignon. Drink now through cocoa notes fill in the background. and racy structure guiding alluring rooibos tea. damson plum and bitter cherry fruit offset black currant and blackberry fruit flavors. boysenberry and 2013 $25 This delivers a beam of red currant preserves blackberry confiture flavors gushing forth. harnessed for now by graphite-edged grip. with warm raspberry.M. with lightly mulled currant singed apple wood and red licorice notes. This is still very youthful and densely packed. Still has some unwinding to do. A long imported.M. apricot and kumquat notes laced with a vibrant with lots of tobacco leaf and singed cedar notes out front. plum and blackberry fruit. fruitcake and melted black licorice Syrah & Blends notes fill in. blood 90 Delaire Graff Botmaskop Stellenbosch 2013 berry. Cabernet Sauvignon.M. with succulent Verdot. 5. Drink now. A long. Syrah. Merlot. Youthfully backed by a subtle but persistent singed mesquite note.M. warm $55 Lushly layered.M. raspberry and plum pâte de fruit flavors cours- 92 Rust en Vrede Stellenbosch 2013 $48 Warm ing along. with a silky. 215 cases made. 417 cases green tea edge. Petit Verdot and Shi- raz.M. 4. 20 cases imported. Drink page 119.—J. Drink now through of dark currant. 2019.—J. with an echo of singed bay SOUTH AFRICA long finish lets mocha. Cabernet Sauvignon. but shows ample Cape 2015 $10 See Best Values. Merlot. 95 Klein Constantia Vin de Constance Constan- 91 Delaire Graff Cabernet Sauvignon Stellen. Petit Verdot. New Releases: South Africa SOUTH AFRICA 90 The Stellenbosch Reserve Vanderstel Stellenbosch 2012 $40 Graceful. a core of raspberry. Drink now through 2020. violet and juniper details ripe boysenberry. hint for added tension. Pe. Unfurls steadily through the lengthy finish. Has cut and drive through the finish. Malbec and now through 2020. Best from 2017 through 2022. and cherry notes mixed with savory and singed cedar ac. the finish. An obvious style. Reveals a buried graphite spine.—J. Drink now A lovely display of fruit. 375 cases made. loamy along the way. Malbec. remaining supple through the finish.—J. Cabernet Sauvignon. orange. Drink now through 2020.—J. 30. now through 2022.—J. and lined with olive and black tea accents. A savory echo extends Syrah.—J. in a fruit-forward way. Best from 2017 through 2025. stretching out over a well-embedded Rouge Swartland 2015 $16 Lovely. 200 cases made. with a core of warm charcoal and tobacco notes followed by steeped iron note and picking up anise. Has the spine for 92 de Trafford Cabernet Sauvignon Stellen. ity. Latent acidity lets every- thing stretch out. dark earth cedar fill in on the back end. Already sleek mineral and sanguine notes adding a glistening a polished feel. 92 Rust en Vrede Syrah Stellenbosch Single no rush at all. racy style. gether and carried by a long finish of mocha and Christ. Drink now through 2021. savory and tobacco notes inlaid into the core of macerated black cherry and black currant fruit.300 cases imported. 2020. with a copious but polished Loads of black tea.M. Shiraz and Cabernet Franc.M.487 cases made. Muscat de Frontignan. boysenberry and blackberry fruit wait- 92 Anthonij Rupert Coastal Region 2009 $135 ing to burst out. SOUTH AFRICA Latent grip emerges steadily. herb-tinged style. 90 Anwilka Petit Frère Stellenbosch 2013 $22 Ripe and well-built. Drink now through 2019. Malbec and Petit Verdot. Squarely in the hedonistic camp. featuring a mature 92 Stark-Condé Syrah Jonkershoek Valley Three Pines 2013 $41 Rock-solid. alder and singed savory notes. 420 cases made. singed licorice notes. blackberry and boysen. along with enticing tea. Cabernet Sauvignon.500 cases made. 224 cases 87 KWV Roodeberg Western Cape 2014 $16 berry and damson plum fruit.—J. 1. layered style. 60 cases imported. with consistent notes. lined with ample Black Forest cake and black 94 Hamilton Russell Chardonnay Hemel-en- plum and dark cherry notes. 433 and plum confiture notes inlaid with light mocha and singed through 2020. Drink now through 2022. page 122. 112 cases dark olive. 90 Constantia Glen Five Constantia 2011 $44 with fig. the fine-grained finish. 92 Ernie Els Cabernet Sauvignon Stellenbosch is loaded with layers of warm boysenberry. Cabernet Franc. 1. Drink now through 2019. 112 cases made.M.M.—J.—J. exhibiting an nectarine.500 cases made. Cabernet Franc. 3. front. Western Cape 2015 $12 See Best Values. Reveals a strong graphite edge on the finish. 2. Drink now the hedonist camp. vanilla notes. 93 Hamilton Russell Pinot Noir Hemel-en-Aarde tit Verdot. ground. with notes of boysenberry. Tasted finish maintains a dark profile without losing definition. but still has a fleshy edge to the lightly mulled ing through. boysenberry and and savory notes race through the core of dark currant plum sauce gliding over an ample. Cabernet Sauvignon. Best all while staying understated in style. Enticing through the finish. 89 Trizanne Signature Wines Syrah-Grenache Swartland 2014 $19 This delivers a solid core of plum Broad-shouldered and dense. Best from 2017 through 2022. sweet 91 Keermont Syrah Stellenbosch 2012 $40 cedar detail lets the finish glide. 1.M.M. 94 Porseleinberg Swartland 2013 $95 This has Drink now through 2019. 2. 7. cedar and warm tobacco leaf hints emerge steadily through a nice savory streak imparting balance and length. Drink now through 2020. 3. 500 cases made. Valley Vineyard Selection 2012 $44 Dark and vignon.—J. notes.M.050 cases made. raspberry and 90 Tania & Vincent Carême Terre Brûlée Le 2013 $24 Offers a dark. so to olive. Merlot. Drink now through 89 De Morgenzon Maestro Red Stellenbosch A ripe. old-school twinge. unwind nicely with a bit of cellaring. 2016 . featuring menthol and coffee aromas out made. Cabernet Sau. Drink bosch 2011 $50 Enticing. Drink now through 2020. cherry Mourvèdre. Merlot. power than purity. Fleshy and broad.—J. backed by black 2021. Not shy on depth or length. polished structure. tobacco leaf and dried currant plum. berry confiture notes. bay and juniper accents on the finish. with a mix of singed bay. roasted vanilla. with a core of dark Cabernet Sauvignon & Blends edge to the mix of mint. blackberry and black currant notes melding with 93 de Trafford Elevation 393 Stellenbosch 2009 notes that form the core. with layers of fig. 252 cases made. with a suave core of currant. all al.—J. Impressive. Drink now approachable. Drink now through 2021. with a range of açai berry. polished.002 cases made. damson plum and singed wood spice notes along.M. charcoal and tobacco details on the finish. the finish.—J. blackberry confiture and warm fruitcake flavors. showing mouthwatering acid- 92 Neil Ellis Cabernet Sauvignon Jonkershoek cents. An elegant.—J.M. Not shy in style.—J. Cabernet Franc and Malbec. but not at all heady. 1. spine pulls everything together. followed by steeped plum.M. 138 WINE SPECTATOR • SEPT.273 boysenberry reduction and dark licorice notes melded to. 2040. Shiraz. with a very fine-grained feel. Drink now through 2020.M. balance. lush style. while mint. carried by a pol- cases made. and blackberry preserves gliding through. Merlot. with steeped fig. Loam and bittersweet coiled. Shiraz and Cinsault. sanguine-edged finish has latent drive. with smoldering tia 2012 $100/500ml Intense. with lots of blackberry confiture. but remains appealing nonetheless. alluring profile. structure that allows the dark mulled fig. broad. tobacco and singed alder details through $100 Mature. This should and smoldering tobacco leaf notes leading to a solid core acter. A ripe. Syrah. The long finish picks up a bitter almond backed by a core of warm currant confiture that gives way made. 356 cases imported. 91 Rust en Vrede Syrah Stellenbosch 2013 $29 A fresh. blueberry Petit Verdot and Malbec. persistent This is warm and inviting. but there’s no rush. Carignan and Petite Sirah. plum and boy. The long.—J. 92 Rudi Schultz Syrah Stellenbosch 2014 $30 Valley 2015 $50 Gorgeous.—J.—J. Shiraz and Merlot. The and blackberry pâte de fruit flavors.—J. Stays tightly imported. black tea and warm fruitcake 86 Fairview Goats do Roam Red Western cocoa and coffee notes lead the way for a fleshy core of notes. with Aarde Valley 2015 $37 See Highly Recommended. Dense. violet and anise details fill in the back- paste. twice.M.M.—J. showing good energy as mouthwatering bramble Tempranillo.

white peach and gooseberry notes at the core. accompanied by a sanguine echo. showing ample energy.M.M. hints. Drink now 1998 and 2002 vintages. smoke lined with violet. allowing the fruit to win out easily. 340 cases made. 437 cases imported. Cabernet Sauvignon and Shiraz. 94 Bodegas Vega Sicilia Ribera del Duero Unico Reserva Especial NV $500 This alluring red entices 90 Waterkloof Sauvignon Blanc Stellenbosch with floral and spice aromas. with quince. and spice frame a core of cherry and pomegranate in this ers a fresh. give this light red a juicy character. black tea through the finish.M.M. shiso leaf and white pepper notes. 89 de Trafford Merlot Stellenbosch 2008 $40 93 Bodegas Arrocal Ribera del Duero Máximo Fully mature. The bright.M. but has good CHRISTOPHER CANNAN leading to a long. featuring a beam of cassis and boysenberry fruit 2008 $410 Savory flavors of tobacco. bay and bittersweet cocoa powder details. 100 cases and a fine-grained structure Drink now through 2017.M.M.—T. balance. fruit melded with smoldering tobacco. flavors. macerated blackberry and black cherry fruit. The heft is matched by ample zip.—J.M.—T. with mulled plum. coffee. with creamed melon. The finish energetic red. blood orange– This has a core of tangy red currant and damson plum edged acidity keeps this fresh despite the extra bottle age. Drink now through Selection 2011 $44 The mulled cherry and plum fruit 2017. racy style. with a fleshy edge to the lightly gle with notes of mineral and loamy earth in this graceful.—J.M. Big and ish. 89 Kanonkop Kadette Stellenbosch 2014 $15 all gliding through a silky finish. page 119. Has deceptive depth and com- plexity.M. 87 KWV The Legend of Big Bill Western Cape floral-edged finish shows an echo of straw in the back. 90 Sijnn Touriga Nacional Malgas 2013 $35 Features light tannins and fresh acidity.600 cases made. character.000 cases made. Smoke and mineral notes linger on the finish. while a core of black cherry and licorice lends bacco leaf notes leading the way. followed by bitter cherry. meaty flavors that mingle over muscular tannins. along with a core of lemon imported.M. Drink now through 2018. Cabernet Sauvignon. The tannins curd. Drink now through 2017. Chenin 1.—J. & ANNE-JOSÉPHINE CANNAN in the end. supported by well-integrated cases imported. Drink now through 2017. Modestly toasted energy. fig paste and loamy earth flavors.—J. is woven with black tea. 89 Doran Chenin Blanc Swartland 2013 $15 Inviting. 2016 • WINE SPECTATOR 139 . hedonistic wine. with dark currant and blackberry $40 See Highly Recommended. This balanced red shows focused fla- vors of cherry. Sauvignon Blanc. 56 made. SPAIN Ribera del Duero 90 Southern Right Pinotage Hemel-en-Aarde Valley 2015 $27 Offers bright purity uncommon for 94 Bodegas Vega Sicilia Ribera del Duero Unico the grape.M.800 red. Mint and cedar details hold sway through the fin. this red shows a savory. Not muscular. Solid grip. now through 2020. accented by vanilla 112 cases imported.M. Chardonnay and Viognier. 2014 $11 Lively cassis and bay notes bounce along. Drink now through 2028. Drink now hints. bay and warm cocoa notes lead. lemon chiffon. Not racy verbena. Sauvignon Blanc.—T. New Releases: South Africa / Spain 92 Neil Ellis Grenache Piekenierskloof Vineyard brioche note that hangs on the finish.250 cases Shows a nice shortbread note. white peach and gooseberry gelée flavors. 15.—J. through 2022. A blend of the 1996. mountain herb and spice flavors min- 2012 $45 Alluring. Harmonious and graceful. white peach and yellow apple flavors melded together. cases imported. 8. herbal 2013 $40 Nicely detailed. 91 Kanonkop Pinotage Simonsberg-Stellen. ground.M.—J.M. with deliciously pure plum and blackberry compote flavors enlivened by an anise note that lingers through the finish. 100 with light. Reveals a whiff of Drink now through 2021.—J.M. A fun. Owners & Winemakers Blanc. Loire fans will dig this. with mint.M. Circumstance 2015 $20 This packs some solid lemon with plum. with mouthwatering to. Drink now. 650 cases imported. 3.—T. Merlot 91 Neil Ellis Amica Jonkershoek 2014 $30 and Cabernet Franc. chamomile and fleur de sel accents on the muscular. Petit Verdot.—J. vanilla and 90 Keermont Terrasse Stellenbosch 2014 $27 mountain herb that mingle over Offers a ripe. with are well-integrated. Drink now through 2020. Pinotage. Drink Delicious blueberry and açai berry fruit bounces along. Deliv. 90 de Trafford Petit Verdot Stellenbosch 2012 93 Álvaro Palacios Priorat Les Terrasses 2014 $45 Ripe and fleshy. 89 Clos Figueras Priorat Font de la Figuera 2013 90 Raats Family Cabernet Franc Stellenbosch $35 Firm and crisp.000 cases made. mineral. 3.—J. finish.M. with a juicy texture and a backdrop of cocoa and bramble. verbena-filled finish. in a savory style. Drink now through 2018. 56 cases imported. bosch 2014 $40 A juicy. licorice and blood orange hints.M. 2010 $115 This aromatic red shows balsamic. deepening on the palate. but deep and complex. 87 Cellers Unió Priorat Convey 2014 $17 A burst of berry and cherry flavors. berry. alluring fruit bold. curd. 28 cases imported. framed by a warm SEPT.—T. Drink now through 2025. with a sleek iron edge and lingering rooibos tea Drink now through 2018. racy finish. 350 cases made. Well done. Drink now through 2018. 500 cases made. Shows impressive range and depth 90 Clos Figueras Priorat for what is normally a blending variety. with well-integrated tannins and is inlaid with subtle dark olive and smoldering tobacco balsamic acidity. 93 Clos Figueras Priorat Clos Figueres 2012 90 de Trafford Cabernet Franc Stellenbosch $60 Black cherry. 30. Finishes fresh and floral. 10 through 2018. Balanced. dark currant and singed bay flavors. 28 cases imported.—J. 2.M. rounded feel. Drink now through 2018.—T. page 122. the finish. and mountain herb. briary tannins and a dose of dark toast through cases imported. but still has subtle. hoisin ing the way for a core of macerated plum and blackberry and fig paste notes. Lively.—T.M.—J. lemon light tannins.000 cases made.—J. kept fresh by orange peel acidity. cases imported. Features dark SPAIN fruit but remains bright and fresh in feel. Decidedly old school. Drink now through 2018.—J.500 cases made. refreshed by bright shortbread and white ginger notes forming the core and acidity. 100 cases imported. tannins and fresh acidity. 90 Southern Right Sauvignon Blanc Walker Bay 2015 $19 See Smart Buys. Drink now through 2026. Drink Priorat now through 2020. 1. Expressive. tobacco and flavors. Drink now through Serras del Priorat 2014 $21 2019.—J.

M. supported by muscular Leafy and smoky notes frame black cherry and licorice tannins and balsamic acidity. kept lively feel. Plum. Decant. cherry and herb flavors. 100 cases imported. balanced and floral notes through the long finish. with light tannins and bright acidity. Drink now through 2026. Drink now through 2020. firm tannins.000 cases made. dried peach and walnut notes.M. nectarine and peach and light. Restrained but bal- 90 Delgado Zuleta Pedro Ximénez Jerez NV $56 Round and ripe. tobacco and spice flavors mingle in this firm.° 2011 $195 Flavors of black cherry.912 cases made. 6. tobacco and light earthy flavors lend a savory character flavors have a slightly jammy character in this rich red. bal. 570 cases imported.500 cases made.M.M. The muscular tannins are leafy and licorice notes in this focused red.M. Ripe but savory. firm tannins and balsamic acidity. page 122. honeysuckle.—T. Drink now through 2020. angular char- imported. now through 2023. leaving a mouthwatering 92 Bodegas Vega Sicilia Ribera del Duero savory components. Rioja to this lean. 89 Bodega Dehesa de los Canónigos Ribera del ished red. Drink now. tarragon and vanilla. 1. but balanced. smoky and mineral notes framing a core of Dried orange. jicama and white 424 cases imported. supported by well-integrated tannins and balanced acid. yet harmonious and ener. Drink now 89 Delgado Zuleta Oloroso Jerez Dry NV $16 with woodsy. leafy and loamy earth $18 Black cherry. with getic. Tasted ity. with integrated tannins and a spicy White Viña Tondonia Reserva 2003 $54 This 12. Drink now. finish. Gets drier through the finish. 7. Flecks of green tea dot the mineral notes. Drink now Barrameda Goya XL En Rama NV $30/500ml 2012 $95 Cherry. tobacco. 91 Bodegas y Viñedos Pintia Toro 2011 $65 Duero Pesquera Crianza 2013 $35 Black cherry 89 Pagos del Rey Rioja Castillo de Albai Crianza Espresso and bitter chocolate notes frame flavors of plum 2012 $14 This red shows reserved but harmonious preserves. but deep. Rich and a bit austere now. ing up hints of toasted sesame and buckwheat along the light.M.000 cases well-integrated. structure. Drink now imported. The plush tex. 75 cases samic acidity keeps this balanced.M. 498 cases made.000 cases made. mineral and smoky notes mingle over light. 89 Bodegas Arrocal Ribera del Duero Selección orange peel notes. loamy eydew. tobacco. 600 cases imported.M. with light tannins and orange peel acid- ity. Well-balanced. New Releases: Spain 93 Bodegas Valduero Ribera del Duero 6 Años Reserva Premium 2009 $90 The ripe plum and fig SPAIN 87 Dios Ares Rioja Crianza 2012 $15 Smoke. 570 cases imported. while orange peel acidity imparts balance. with Crianza 2013 $33 Black cherry and blackberry flavors notes of orange zest. 5. cigar box and dried herb. Not muscular. 90 Bodegas Arrocal Ribera del Duero Ángel dried cherry. accented by dark chocolate and candied Toro 2014 $20 See Smart Buys.—T.M. Cherry. For en rama fans rather than Sherry newbies. 1. 89 Valtostao Ribera del Duero Legón Crianza 88 Bodegas Izadi Rioja Reserva 2012 $19 91 Telmo Rodríguez Toro Dehesa Gago 2014 Chewy tannins shadow plum.—J. this spicy red delivers warm flavors $25 Prune. but 91 Bodegas Marqués de Murrieta Viura Rioja way.—T. with harmony and depth. kirsch and orange peel mingle with anise.—T.—T.—T. Drink now through 2024. Drink now through 2025.—J. supported by balsamic acidity and firm through 2020. 90 Delgado Zuleta Manzanilla Sanlúcar de notes in this focused red.—T. graphite and balsamic by balsamic acidity. vanilla and toasted spice flavors in 2012 $55 This savory red shows focus and balance. dried lemon rind. through 2023.000 cases made. quince. 140 WINE SPECTATOR • SEPT. Drink now through 2024. forest floor. 92 cases imported. Drink now through 2021. boysenberry.—T. 500 cases made.—J. Drink now through 21.—T. Drink now through 2021.—T. in the traditional style. toast and polished texture. sive. in the traditional style. Features light.M. Drink now through 2022. 250 90 R. red is dense yet graceful. Has light tannic grip and enough acidity to stay quinine and salted almond notes that race along. Drink now through 2028. Drink now through 2022. lanolin and vanilla in this powerful white. Expressive. balance and lively. and citrusy acidity keeps this fresh. Drink now.—J. tobacco and licorice flavors in this savory red.—T. 230 cases imported. Fresh acidity carries herbal SPAIN Duero Viña Pedrosa Gran Reserva 2010 $111 This Sherry firm red delivers toast. dried persimmon and form the core of this red. backed by a long finish of salt and quinine. The muscular tannins are well-integrated. firm tannins and fresh acidity.—T.M. Drink now through 2022.666 cases made.—T. Firm.—T.M. López de Heredia Viña Tondonia Rioja Bright acidity keeps this juicy. date and green tea notes streak through in berry and graphite. floral. leafy and light earthy notes frame imported. Capellanía 2011 $29 A thick texture carries bold Drink now. 5. silky red. leafy. 1. balanced. Firm tannins and lively acidity impart structure. Features firm austere. Drink now through 2026. but the floral and Sicilia Rioja Macán 2012 $90 Licorice and graphite spicy finish shows some grace. cola and mineral flavors 2013 $23 Black cherry and plum flavors mingle with flavors in this sturdy red. tea.—T. with bright cherry and berry flavors in this lively red. Shows good density and balance. Shows density.M. piercing oloroso. Powerful and austere. 2024.000 cases made. Drink now through 2025. but needs time to unwind. Shows range and character. loamy notes on the finish.—J.M. Drink now through 2023.M. pick- of plum pudding. Drink now through 2024. anced and energetic. 92 Bodegas Y Viñedos Gallego Zapatero Ribera and loamy earth notes frame black cherry and anise fla- del Duero Yotuel’ Finca de Valdepalacios 2009 vors in this savory red. but firm tannins but has depth. ture has good density. $30/375ml This has a tangy dry edge throughout.—T.000 cases made.M.M. Expres- tannins and bright acidity.M. 90 Delgado Zuleta Amontillado Jerez Dry NV giving way to spicy. hazelnut. Drink now through 2020. Pérez Pascuas Ribera del texture carrying lively flavors of dried apple. acter that should make this a refreshing match with food. mushroom and leather frame dried cherry and orange peel notes in this traditional-style red.000 depth. Best from 2017 through 91 Bodegas Roda Rioja Reserva 2010 $56 cases made. 90 Cia des Vinos del Atlántico Rioja La Antigua pit notes giving way to a bitter almond edge on the fin- Drink now through 2018. 5. 90 Bodegas Benjamin de Rothschild & Vega muscular tannins and balsamic acidity.000 cases made. lively red. with juicy acidity and a spicy finish. Drink now. A savory style. with a earth and mineral. 50.M.—T.—T. 91 Bodegas Marqués de Murrieta Rioja Finca a bone-dry feel to the talc. 89 Delgado Zuleta Manzanilla Sanlúcar de 90 Bodegas y Viñedos Alion Ribera del Duero focused red. 93 R. raspberry and kirsch flavors show a Features the dark yellow hue typical of en rama bottlings. ture. 8. Muscular and red plum flavors are fresh and lively in this juicy red. Muscular tannins support the round texture. generous.M.M. with jicama. 60. solid and balanced. Drink now through 2025.M. Features a smooth. sanguine peach notes. 100 cases made.500 cases made. mineral and smoke. Dense. Drink now 92 Bodegas Roda Rioja Cirsion 2011 $330 This $16 Alluring singed almond and orange peel flavors lead through 2022. with lemon curd. 92 cases made. giving way to a spicy finish. 6. 1. flavors of black cherry. with a lean 92 Bodegas Hnos. a graceful texture. 2016 .M. wild- flower. distinctive white is delicate yet expressive.—T. while balsamic acidity imparts freshness. with anced. A bit angular. cola Duero Crianza 2013 $30 Plum and blackberry notes mingle with smoky and meaty flavors in this thick red.276 cases made. muscular Barrameda NV $16 Bright and pure.000 cases made. Harmonious. firm tannins. followed by sesame.M.—T.—T.000 cases notes frame black cherry and dried herb flavors in this pol. Drink now through Balanced and energetic. 91 Bodegas Viña Vilano Ribera del Duero flavors of coconut.M. dried fig and anise in this dense red. Straightforward.—T.M.—T. Reserved but deep. ending with an tannins. Clásico Reserva 2008 $24 This supple red offers ish. sandalwood.—T.M. 2012 $42 Herbal. Viña Tondonia Reserva 2004 $51 Savory flavors of 89 Delgado Zuleta Palo Cortado Jerez NV 90 Bodega Matarromera Ribera del Duero tea. unctuous edge through the finish.M. framing a core of creamed pear and hon- 89 Delgado Zuleta Manzanilla Sanlúcar de Crianza 2013 $26 This red shows a thick. Decant. 1. tannins and balsamic acidity reinforce the sturdy struc- Light. accented by cocoa. cases made.000 cases made. Barrameda La Goya NV $16/375ml Delightful. 92 Telmo Rodríguez Toro Gago 2013 $32 Thick.M. Ygay Gran Reserva 2009 $80 Cigar box.500 cases made.666 cases made. 20 cases imported. 89 Bodegas Artevino Rioja Orben 2012 $30 and tarry flavors. but remains a bit mingle in this ripe. Traditional style.000 cases imported. 30. Has good concentration. with consistent notes.M. finish. Drink now. piercing feel through the bony finish. 2027. and the bal- flavors in this savory red. Firm tannins give structure. Valbuena 5.M. 5. 5.—T. 50. 90 Bodegas Marqués de Murrieta Rioja Dalmau SPAIN 90 Finca Villacreces Ribera del Duero Pruno 2012 $69 This generous red delivers ripe plum and blackberry fruit. fresh and lively. bitter almond stretching out.—T. firm tannins and citrusy acidity keep this focused. raisin and toffee notes glide together.—J. almond. 1. ripe character in this bright red. Drink and crisp acidity impart a racy structure. Firm tannins and orange peel acidity are Harmonious and graceful. with a good balance of fruit and the way.—T. Drink now.M.M. 5. this relatively light.M. with muted flavors of blackberry. Not exuberant.—T. sanguine. López de Heredia Viña Tondonia Rioja almond husk edge. 58 cases 92 Bodega Numanthia Toro Numanthia 2011 $55 Cola and balsamic notes accent plum.M. 89 Bodegas Alejandro Fernandez Ribera del through 2020.000 cases made. showing a lean.M. Drink now through 2022.666 cases made. with a core of cherry and berry. 2023. Shows a flattering.—J. made. backed by citrusy acidity through 2025.—T. this red delivers plum. Drink now and fresh. twice.

Drink now through 2019. cedary oak shadings. Drink now.M.—T. firm tannins and citrusy acidity. white. Pinot Noir Highlands Sierra Mar 2014 $75 Though ultrarich 91 Bodegas y Viñedos Raúl Pérez Albariño Rias and loaded with deep. plum. smoke. Drink now through 2020. savory rose petal. minerally finish. 840 cases made. made. with Cepas Vellas 2014 $20 See Smart Buys. licorice-scented oak gives this captivating 93 Kosta Browne Pinot Noir Russian River El Pecado 2013 $91 This red delivers lively flavors range. Slow to unfold. blackberry and flavors mingle in this savory red.M. sailing along SPAIN round white is fruit-forward. this is smooth and round. juicy blackberry and wild berry. but bal- polished. Verdejo Rueda Nisia Old Vines 2015 $16 Pear. The polished texture is supported 94 Cirq Pinot Noir Russian River Valley Tree. lavender and spicy berry scents and a persistent good structure and complexity. long and lingering. rose petal aromas. 89 Jorge Ordoñez & Co. 100 cases made. black licorice. Mencía. spice. this ends keeps reverberating. rich aftertaste and a supple. toasty oak and accented by hints of black tea 90 Bodegas y Viñedos Raúl Pérez Rias Baixas and spice. touching sweet spots and 90 Bodegas y Viñedos Raúl Pérez Mencía Bierzo lingering.000 cases made. Drink now through 2022. with mineral and wild herb character. with peach.—J. caressing texture. 2. Drink now.L.—J.L. fresh herbs and vanilla in a creamy texture. is rich and extracted.—J.—T. Focused and lively.L. Drink now.M. SEPT. 948 cases made. Drink now. 2023.—T.M. with uncommon depth and purity of flavors built vor nuances. 2. Mineral and fresh herb notes add interest. 91 Bodegas y Viñedos Raúl Pérez Mencía Bierzo 93 Arista Pinot Noir Mendocino Ridge 2014 $54 Ultreia Petra 2013 $108 This red offers bright cherry 95 Cirq Pinot Noir Russian River Valley Boot. bitter greens and cola. of pear and citrus flavors adds fresh fruit to the balance. rich and of elegance and suppleness. The 90 Bodegas y Viñedos Raúl Pérez Ribeira Sacra seductive. 694 cases made. plump plum. Distinctive. charming.—T. firmly tannic wild berry.—J. Drink now through 2022. this captures berry flavors amid the dusty. Lively acidity imparts balance. mocha. rich and assertive. Gala apple and on a persistent finish. 2014 $125 Offers amazing aromas of wild berry.—T. anise. 30. 88 cases made. cedar. 8. through 2021. with lively acidity and a raspberry. 447 cases made. Caiño and Bastardo.L. rose petal and coconut. sage and underbrush. Drink now.—J. Drink now through 2022. Drink mingle with tangerine and spice flavors in this thick. A bit austere. showing 94 Arista Pinot Noir Russian River Valley good acidity keeping the flavors lively and zesty. Valley Cohn Vineyard 2014 $90 Rustic and edgy. showing briny. 89 Bodegas Ordoñez Montsant Zerran 2014 $18 This aromatic red delivers lively flavors of cherry. with leafy and orange peel notes. Merseguera. with a texture that highlights 87 Volver Alicante Tarima Blanco 2015 $9 This the tenderness and strength of the tannins.M.L. with texture kept lively by citrusy acidity.—T. Drink now through 2024. lychee.L. which glides along. with just enough acidity to stay lively. eral-laced tannins that weave into a mix of gravelly. 2016 • WINE SPECTATOR 141 . Drink now. The Light tannins and citrusy acidity lend focus and liveliness.L. 93 Domaine Della Pinot Noir Russian River Sketch 2014 $80 This bold white delivers ripe apple. with detailed blackberry. 235 cases made. fresh 94 Kosta Browne Pinot Noir Santa Lucia and balanced. scented plum and blueberry flavors. understated elegance. Citrusy acidity keeps this lively. Drink now around blackberry. Drink now through with a long. 150 cases made. 1.M. ultrarich. Drink now. 1. Málaga Victoria 2014 $26/375ml This sweet white offers expressive flavors of Seville orange. ending with a long. with a supple yet gutsy core of min. green almond and herbal flavors mingle in this fleshy white. Firm acidity keeps this focused.L. black tea and wild berry flavors traction.M.—T. 836 cases made. with notes of cocoa and hazelnut balanced by edge to this white. Drink Highlands Rosella’s Vineyard 2014 $90 A 91 Bodegas Godeval Valdeorras Viña Godeval now.L. graceful and deep. persistent aftertaste that a core of pear and ginger flavors.M.—J. 1.—J. dense core of raspberry and blackberry. set in a smooth. Expressive. Málaga Old Vines 2011 ing mouthwatering juiciness and presence. Stylish and revealing new fla- sleek texture fueled by crisp acidity. leafy. in the modern style. Drink now through 2022.—T. supported by well-integrated tannins and sweet-tart acidity. Supple. CALIFORNIA 94 Walt(California) Pinot Noir Santa Lucia ing. currant.—J. Drink now through 2023. made. with a floral.000 cases made. legger’s Hill 2013 $125 A thrilling expression of featuring an intense core of savory herb. Plush and dense.L. Harmonious and bal- anise and spice scents.M. with a 94 Arista Pinot Noir Russian River Valley blueberry flavors. kirsch. dark flavors. quince and lime in this expressive white. kirsch.071 cases anced.748 cases made. moderately ripe plum and blueberry flavors with aromatic finish echoes spicy fruit and jazzy oak. made. while firm acidity imparts focus. Drink now through Racy. dar notes. 87 Vicente Gandía Utiel-Requena Hoya de Cadenas Reserva Privada 2012 $10 See Best Values. Drink now through 2022.—T. 2020.—J. 264 cases made. revealing rose.M. raspberry and blueberry. of cherry.L. page 123. 5. A core 94 Kosta Browne Pinot Noir California 4-Barrel mineral and licorice.200 cases imported. Garnacha. Drink now through 2022. juicy blackberry and wild berry notes.000 cases made. 100 cases herb details and cedar-laced tannins that give the plum.—T. 182 cases made. Mazuelo and Syrah.L. 1. and the fruit shows depth and persistence. nutmeg and ce- firm. Silky in tex- $77/375ml Burnt caramel and candied orange flavors United States ture. sweet now through 2022. New Releases: Spain / UNITED STATES / California 90 Bodegas Ordoñez Toro Vatan 2013 $45 87 Adegas Gran Vinum Albariño Rias Baixas earth.—T. black cherry and wild berry flavors impart- 91 Jorge Ordoñez & Co. loamy 215 cases made. 88 Jorge Ordoñez & Co. Sails along on the layered finish.M.243 cases anced. Valley Keefer Ranch 2013 $70 This dark-hued red dried pear. Round yet firm. gorgeous version. with plum. finish. Most impressive is the focus and deliv. Other tangerine flavors.M.000 cases made. but house 2013 $125 Combining power and finesse. Drink now through This rich red delivers a mouthful of ripe plum and Nessa 2015 $17 Ginger and leesy notes lend a savory 2022. Macabeo and Moscatel. this impressive overall.500 cases made. shaded made.—T. page 121. supple and graceful. 160 cases made. energetic and expressive. 89 Bodegas Godeval Godello Valdeorras 2014 $15 Firm acidity supports juicy flavors of peach. tar and espresso Vineyard 2013 $88 Dense. this firmly tannic version shows a sense Longbow 2014 $60 Impressively styled.—J. stony and tarragon notes that accent tight. this maintains a grace- Baixas Muti 2013 $37 This savory white is broad and 95 Boars’ View Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast 2013 ful balance and delicate presence. ery of flavor. 500 cases made.—T. set in a fleshy is rich in firm. delicate. 93 Calera Pinot Noir Mount Harlan Jensen Vico 2013 $33 Black cherry. Ends with Mononi Vineyard 2014 $75 Exhibits dusty. Displays the finesse and nuance you hope for with Pinot. Drink now.M. by smoky. $125 Bold. Graceful and allur. beeswax and chamomile flavors. cherry and earth- and orange peel accents. rich texture.—J. 1. Generous and lively. Drink now through 2023. cherry and rasp- and red plum flavors. with pretty floral with extracted.—J. 88 cases by light.

L. 2016 . fine-grained tannins. New Releases: California 93 Kosta Browne Pinot Noir Russian River 92 Aston Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast 2014 $65 92 Lucia Pinot Noir Santa Lucia Highlands Valley Keefer Ranch 2014 $90 Gushes with fresh.—J. floral and spice. Charm. expressive mix of zesty blackberry and wild berry fruit. 91 Failla Pinot Noir Sonoma to the core of strawberry. supple and floral version. revealing a delicate aftertaste. with a dusty. the spicy tannins.L. Vineyard 2014 $70 Though marked by dusty. understated profile while gaining depth and persistence. charry oak imparts aroma this depth. ending with dusty. cherry.—J.L. 500 cases made. Should extend in range and complexity with wild berry and raspberry flavors. 526 cases made. Offers a this point. nicely. tapping into notes Drink now. perfumed scents. deep dark berry and red berry fruit that flirts with the lands Pisoni Vineyard 2014 $90 Plump and gener. 256 cases made.—J. freely.400 cases made. 26. Flexes some tannic muscle on the finish. with lively. 93 Kosta Browne Pinot Noir Santa Lucia High.L.L. Tight. time. Drink now.—J. Gains firm. Drink now. blackberry and plum notes amid chalky snappy berry flavors. Drink now. 643 cases made. featuring detailed. from the fine-grained tannins. 800 cases made. 648 cases made.L. 91 Brewer-Clifton Pinot Noir Sta.—J. loamy this offers exotic. lands Garys’ Vineyard 2014 $90 Plump and supple gains depth and persistence. 175 cases made.L. scented tannins. Impres- $54 Generous.—J. Drink now. Gains depth.and spice-laced raspberry and plum fla- refined style that captures suppleness and finesse. with 93 Kosta Browne Pinot Noir Santa Lucia High. loamy tannins and a generous core of by zesty acidity and firm. with a firm. will be worth the wait. 993 cases made.L. black olive and loganberry flavors. delicate. made. persistence and length. black. offering an Pisoni Vineyard 2013 $90 A rich.174 cases made.—J. where Valley Koplen Vineyard 2014 $90 Begins restrained the flavors gain depth and persistence.605 cases made. gaining a spicy quality and firm.—J. this ends snug and tannic.—J.L. Drink now. Drink nic flex on the aftertaste. More authoritative on the palate. Ends with a long. 752 cases made. 500 cases made. Drink now. gaining a little tan. 580 cases made. Broad and expansive midpalate. Drink now.—J.—J.—J. made. and layered aftertaste.—J.286 cases 92 Calera Pinot Noir Mount Harlan Reed made. blueberry. making this a wine of immediate rose. Drink now 3. now.—J. This is a complex and Vineyard 2014 $68 Smoky.L. Garys’ Vineyard 2014 $60 Offers notes of baking snappy cherry. raspberry and floral notes. where the berry notes.—J. fanning out Ends clean and elegant. gaining velocity and depth. impressive for the subtle structure and delivery. 2013 $35 Deep. 30. Drink now through 2022.—J. underbrush. 234 EHREN JORDAN notes. 92 Reata Pinot Noir Santa Lucia Highlands 92 Chalone Pinot Noir Chalone Heritage Vines Rosella’s Vineyard 2014 $55 Well-built. raspberry flavors. ish impart a sandy texture and good length. throughout. anise. 92 Lucia Pinot Noir Santa Lucia Highlands 2014 91 Failla Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast Whistler $45 A supple.L. supple texture and striking velocity to the fruit fla.—J. offering alluring floral scents of violet and spice. nic start and modest red berry and tea flavors. Drink now. Drink now. layered finish.500 cases made. with plum and black cherry flavors. 682 cases made. Firms with lavender. yet the flavors flow understated but gains depth and complexity.L.—J. minerally edge Kanzler Vineyard 2014 $90 The purity and brilliance 92 Arista Pinot Noir Russian River Valley Toboni of the plum and raspberry fruit rises to the occasion. 142 WINE SPECTATOR • SEPT. turning 92 Arista Pinot Noir Anderson Valley Ferrington juicy wild berry and blueberry fruit. with the The tannins are firm but don’t dominate. tum and persistence on the long. Exotic plum and blackberry notes give this a distinct fla. 297 cases made. Drink now. 744 cases made. 2.L. 92 Hahn Pinot Noir Santa Lucia Highlands SLH of spicy. 552 cases made.L. re- Tongue Cuvée 2013 $70 Smoky oak is present flavors. yet herb and cedar notes. yet understated at spices. Drink now.659 cases made. delicate and tender. building to a focused beam of plum. supple. gaining com.—J. Maintains berry. Drink now through 2022. Rita Hills Hapgood 2014 $95 A bit unwieldy now. Presents a supple and flavor.L. 91 Brewer-Clifton Pinot Noir Sta. fanning out and extending to gravelly earth and 2022. 92 Kosta Browne Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast 2014 $58 An elegantly styled Pinot.L. 92 Arista Pinot Noir Russian River Valley 2014 tannins and supple plum and black cherry flavors. 92 Lucia Pinot Noir Santa Lucia Highlands lands 2014 $68 Like walking through a rose garden. with and elegant. the elements fold together.—J. this finishes long and persistent.—J.L.L. 768 cases made. Drink now through 91 Calera Pinot Noir Mount Harlan de Villiers Vineyard 2013 $52 Builds richness. accented by notes of spice. lavender. raspberry. cedar and berry flavors that are rich and polished.—J. dusty. sity. Drink now through 2022. Drink now. Drink now. Most that reverberates with flavor. Vineyard 2013 $62 Medium-weight. tannins give the flavors traction. through 2022.—J. Drink now. Ends with a mix of floral and anise notes.L. shaded by firm. 92 Calera Pinot Noir Mount Harlan Selleck 92 Patz & Hall Pinot Noir Santa Lucia Highlands Vineyard 2013 $95 An exuberant style.L. ing with fine-grained tannins on the aftertaste. Most impressive on the long this offers fine-grained tannins that add texture and trac- up front. plum.L. savory hazelnut-scented tannins. Drink now. depth and inten- occasion.L. offering dark ity and tannins giving this a structured framework amid lands Le Moulin Rouge 2014 $100 A graceful. fine-grained tan. full finish vors. 2. fruity 92 Arista Pinot Noir Russian River Valley UV . Drink compelling effort. 325 cases made. ness and backbone. The finish brings the elements to- gether in a tightly focused presentation. 92 Roar Pinot Noir Santa Lucia Highlands 92 Cherry Pie Pinot Noir Sonoma County Soberanes Vineyard 2014 $52 Chewy licorice notes 93 Roar Pinot Noir Santa Lucia Highlands Huckleberry Snodgrass 2014 $60 Starts out supple commingle with ripe plum and raspberry flavors in this Rosella’s Vineyard 2014 $60 A seductive style. Drink now through 2022. Drink now. juicy plum and to drink. Drink now.L. nutmeg- bean character to the lively raspberry and cherry core.L. but expands. 92 Kosta Browne Pinot Noir Russian River tannins overshadowing the plum. tea-scented plum and blueberry flavors. earth. tannins give this a grainy texture. Drink now. and tannins impart structure. The Valley Reserve 2014 $43 Centered on juicy plum. 2. cases made.—J.—J. vors.—J. persistence and length. Drink now through 2022. Drink now.L. with floral and 92 MacMurray Ranch Pinot Noir Russian River wilted rose scents and a core of chalky. 192 cases made. Eventually finds a nice gliding altitude. Drink now. The acidity a core of earth. ing an elegant. firm and closed now. highlight the zesty raspberry fruit.L.L. robust style. spice.—J. adding flavor and texture. this fleshy plum.L. cedar and with black licorice. a graceful presence through the finish.L. 92 Walt(California) Pinot Noir Sta. with lots of complex depth and nuance. wilted rose and light wild berry and blue. Ultimately. Drink now. cedary oak. blackberry. anise. core of red and dark berry fruit rises to the forefront and cherry and raspberry flavors that move from supple to firm. showing subtle earthy shadings. 1. spice and tea scents.—J.—J.—J. Holds jammy side. Drink now through 2022. raspberry and wild berry flavors enlivened vor profile that’s supple and graceful. Vineyard 2013 $70 Firm and spicy. delivering elegant plum and wild berry flavors. 262 cases made. with dusty earth.L. Coast Pearlessence Vineyard Offers depth. 227 cases berry scents. 940 cases made. complexity and persistence.L. toasty oak. The tannins on the fin- juicy. dusty earth. with dusty. 380 ing. 192 cases made. Most impressive on the elegant. overshadowing the ripe plum and wild berry texture amid the pleasant weave of savory touches. with a supple core of black cherry.—J. with acid- 93 Peter Michael Pinot Noir Santa Lucia High. Gains momen. berry.L. Tightens $64 Pure and snappy. Highlighted by opulent blackberry and blue- ous. maintain. rich and expansive.—J. Ends lean.—J.—J.L. intensity and range. 258 92 Kosta Browne Pinot Noir Russian River accents. fined finish. appeal. gaining 92 Argot Pinot Noir Sonoma County A Bastard 2014 $30 The texture is plush. Drink now through 2022. blueberry and raspberry Valley Giusti Ranch 2014 $90 Brimming with rich.L. 92 Calera Pinot Noir Mount Harlan Mills 93 Kosta Browne Pinot Noir Santa Lucia High. with wilted Lucky Well Vineyard 2014 $75 Lightly aromatic. 150 cases made. Owner & Winemaker complex character that gains on the palate. Drink now through cases made. 774 cases made. cases made. ranging from plum to anise to dusty. violet and subtle earth shadings. Drink now. Woody nutmeg scents fold in with expression of wild berry and blackberry flavors. and black cherry flavors. with cherry. 346 cases tion. Drink now. rich and full-bodied. with 93 Testarossa Pinot Noir Santa Lucia Highlands 92 Cherry Pie Pinot Noir Sonoma County a deep core of wild berry. flavors. with well-distributed anise.L. nins that shade the earth and anise notes. dusty earth and dried herb flavors that wild berry notes. gaining traction of smoky. with gravel-laced 2023. the intense fruit core rises to the the depth and persistence are evident. creating a now. pepper and ber- Rosella’s Vineyard Single Vineyard Series 2014 Rodgers Creek 2014 $60 Openly fruity and friendly gamot orange. plum and wild on the finish but is easy to drink now and sure to gain. from the light smoky and toasty aromas sive for the delicate aftertaste. 317 cases made. graceful style that builds on a core 384 cases made. detailed and persistent.and gravel-laced plum focus and glides along gracefully on the finish. Rita Hills Clos Pepe 2014 $75 Broad.L.—J. understated style that’s not without Vineyard 2014 $58 Presents a rich. tan. Soberanes Vineyard 2014 $60 Dusty. plum and blackberry. giving amid the rich dark berry and licorice shadings. Starts out elegant and plexity and depth while maintaining delicacy and restraint.—J. imparting a vanilla Satisfying from start to finish. Rita Hills 3D 2014 $80 A supple.

tea and floral notes gaining traction and density. and edgy. ready-to-drink style. watermelon aftertaste. 90 Kosta Browne Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast Gap’s Crown Vineyard 2014 $90 Supple and gen- 91 Lucie Pinot Noir Russian River Valley 90 Cattleya Pinot Noir Russian River Valley erous. floral. focus. black tea.—J. nutmeg and cinnamon add dimension to the delicate plum and wild berry flavors. 90 Chalone Pinot Noir Chalone Gavilan 2013 90 Lazy Creek Pinot Noir Anderson Valley Middleridge Ranch 2014 $48 This strikes a balance 91 Martinelli Pinot Noir Russian River Valley $22 See Smart Buys. Scores Rita’s Crown 2014 $75 Rich and layered. enticingly friendly and easy to drink. rich burst of fruit that tails off into The core of plum. delicate Pinot Noir.—J.and sage-laced red berry to Valley Dutton Ranch 2014 $40 Slow to build.L.—J.—J. Le Caprice 2014 $115 Deceptively complex. this offers an impressive mix of deep. cherry and raspberry flavors. blueberry. graceful fin. build but does so impressively. between rich.—J. blueberry. ing flavors of wild berry. 91 Peter Michael Pinot Noir Fort Ross-Seaview complex. SEPT. on the finish. with zesty acidity sustaining the deli- ending with fine-grained tannins. 385 cases made.L. blue- berry. page 121. Drink now. Drink now. 2016 • WINE SPECTATOR 143 .694 cases scented beginning leading to ripe plum and cherry flavors cate flavors of earth and wild berry.—J. licorice 91 Kosta Browne Pinot Noir Russian River and wild flowers are well-knit and persistent. refinement and grace. Drink now. Drink now. with 90 EnRoute Pinot Noir Russian River Valley touches of anise. way to chewy. The flavors clamp Full-bodied and expansive. 308 cases made.L. now.L. with an elegant. Cuvée Number One 2014 $50 Lightly aromatic yet matic and delicate.L.—J. 2014 $68 Offers direct. racy wild berry and raspberry flavors.—J. 2014 $60 Rich and flavorful.L. grained. Drink now. offering richness and flair. Drink and deep. slow to Drink now. ings of anise.L. this is floral and spicy. rich cases made.—J. 91 Occidental Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast SWK Vineyard 2013 $100 A charming expression of vi- brant. Supple Finds a groove between moderately rich wild berry. Tasted twice with consistent notes. violet and rose flavors.—J. tobacco and dried herb flavors. Rita Hills 459 weave together on the long.L. a loamy edge and a lingering watermelon and cherry aftertaste. 90 Kosta Browne Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast now.366 cases made. front suppleness to the texture to balance this out.L.L. 90 Auteur Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast 2013 $45 350 cases made. Most impressive edgy tannins that impart liveliness. featuring tiers of blue- blackberry. Rail Vineyard 2013 $82 Though the texture is raw ish. cases made. Ends with a long. touches of dried lavender and wilted rose. Ends with tiers of flavor. anise. 6. juicy Vineyard 2014 $59 Offers a complex. 275 Narrows Vineyard 2013 $82 Starts with a tight. 288 cases made. tannins that give the flavors traction.L. gushing with lively and a measure of elegance and finesse. Drink now.—J. pure finish. the flavors of plum. Drink now. spice and cedar. Drink now. Drink now. 91 Mount Eden Pinot Noir Santa Cruz Mountains 2013 $62 Offering different shades of plum and cherry flavors. with a core of plum. The tannins veer into before the tannins firm up. 192 cases made. lingering on the finish.L. Drink now. vivid blueberry.L. $60 Well-structured.800 cases made.—J. tannins. 169 cases made. black 90 Goldeneye Pinot Noir Anderson Valley Split erally aftertaste.511 cases made. but there’s enough up- 250 cases made. 91 Sonoma-Loeb Pinot Noir Russian River from a youthful core of mineral. fleshy style. earthy plum. expansive ex. Drink now. 575 cases made. Good length. with black tea–laced tannins leading to juicy wild berry.L. with an oaky element add- oak and savory underbrush. core of black licorice. unfolding in a harmonious way.L. now.L. with dusty rasp- drying tannins. 418 and cherry flavors. The flavors Reserve du Domaine 2013 $42 Complex from the 90 Brewer-Clifton Pinot Noir Sta. 181 cases made. with subtle anise and light earth shadings. gravelly tannins that impart traction and focused on earth-laced plum and raspberry flavors. cedar and red plum. ending with fine-grained 90 Goldeneye Pinot Noir Anderson Valley The 6. fine-grained tannins. Drink now. 30.—J. deceptively assertive. mineral.L. Rita Hills 210 cases made.—J. raspberry.859 cases made. elegant 2014 $95 Focused on ripe. showing subtle shad. 6. with shades of cedary spice and sandalwood flavors. Ends on a floral spicy note that lingers delicately ressing and gaining depth and nuance. accented by hints of lighter plum. long and lingering on the finish. picking up a smoky. ca. New Releases: California 91 Friedeman Pinot Noir Russian River Valley 91 Sojourn Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast Ridgetop 90 Domaine Della Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast UV Lancel Creek Vineyard 2014 $50 Vivid.L. An easy-to-enjoy. rich and deep red and dark berry flavors that are spicy. 200 cases made. raspberry. right down to the tea-laced down on the finish.—J. where the plummy flavors shine. 550 cases made. A good bet to gain. 91 Scherrer Pinot Noir Sonoma County 2012 $36 A delicate.—J. fresh earth. Drink now. wilted rose and black cherry flavors giving Amber Ridge Vineyard 2014 $85 Direct and well- mocha. 1. gaining depth and dimension. with dusty.L. Ends with a charming made. anise 90 Cherry Pie Pinot Noir Napa Valley Stanly and smoky. 410 plum. Valley 2014 $68 Smooth and inviting. gaining depth and richness.L. Drink now.L. Drink 91 Hyde Pinot Noir Napa Valley Carneros Hyde now through 2021.—J.L. Drink now. 1.066 cases made.—J.L. this is aro- Bacigalupi Vineyard 2014 $60 This slowly builds. joined by fine. Shows impres- 91 Kistler Pinot Noir Russian River Valley 2014 sive depth.005 cases made. grippy territory on the aftertaste. 2.L. toasty nuance on the aftertaste that puts the inherent elegance here on full display. Drink now. Ends dusty and earthy. wild berry and plum flavors Lolita Ranch 2014 $68 Begins sleek and spicy. with ripe plum and blackberry flavors. tea. loamy earth–tinged 91 Walt(California) Pinot Noir Sta.—J. juicy raspberry and wild berry flavors. 700 cases made.—J.L. Drink now. berry. 1. with juicy acidity and supple blackberry.—J. ending with a long. Drink now. herb and cedar. with detail. 85 cases made. blueberry and wild berry flavors.046 cases made.000 cases made.—J.L. tannins and a supple core of plum and raspberry. held in check by dusty.935 cases made. 1.—J. 91 Roar Pinot Noir Santa Lucia Highlands Pisoni Vineyard 2014 $68 Notes of baking spices. cherry. Drink first scent. 1. with zesty. strawberry. expansive core of zesty wild berry. elegance.—J. graphite-scented tannins.—J. engaging aftertaste. cases made. deep finish Ranch 2014 $50 Fruit-driven. Drink now through 2021. in texture. Ends with a long.—J. black cherry and blackberry fruit. Drink now. showing fresh.—J. 2. 91 Lando Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast 2014 $42 90 Brewer-Clifton Pinot Noir Sta. toasty oak. ending with a min. dark berry and light oak and builds 91 Laetitia Pinot Noir Arroyo Grande Valley from there. supported by firm.537 cases made. Drink now. cedar. smoke. black licorice and spicy notes. plum and wild berry flavors that subtly rever- berate. pleasantly tannic and chewy. with an points for snappy acidity and balance. berry. 2. offering charm. blueberry and wild berry flavors offer tight pression of raspberry. raspberry and blueberry is rich Machado 2014 $90 Taut and intense.L. Solid length. Rita Hills ending with a pure.L. Drink ing structure and giving the wine traction on the finish. Drink now. Drink now through 2022. Vineyards 2013 $65 Builds intensity and gains depth. cedary tannins.—J.

Merlot.385 cases made.—T.790 cases made. Fans out to capture black licorice and dried the core of raspberry.—J. with fornia style. Drink now through cases made. 1. 2014 $18 Soft and jammy. that are delicate and understated. dusty earth and sage notes are persistent.—J.800 cases made. 88 El Molino Pinot Noir Rutherford 2013 $70 Zinfandel.—M.F. 87 Matchbook Tempranillo Dunnigan Hills Rosé zesty plum and blueberry fruit.—J.L. 3. Rita Hills The through 2026. Drink Drink now through 2024. charry oak presence adds to the masks the modest mix of plum and berry flavors.035 cases made. Drink now. Drink now. a prominent smoky. 2022. sage and licorice.F. 90 Testarossa Pinot Noir Santa Maria Valley 87 Byron Pinot Noir Santa Maria Valley Nielson leaf presence amid dried berry and anise flavors. Dense yet elegant. Collector’s 2013 $110 An elegant. 89 Gypsy Canyon Pinot Noir Sta. 11. offering. 1.—J. 1. plum and raspberry flavors and accents of savory flavors are crisp and intense. Lee Vineyard 2014 $62 Combines richness with tex.—M. anise. Ends with to soft. Should gain. Drink now. flavors. vibrant CALIFORNIA blackberry. woody presence $64 A smoky. Drink now through cases made.L.L.F. Drink now. with red currant and herb aromas and sage details. well-built. with 90 Patz & Hall Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast 2014 Road 2014 $45 Supple and generous. Picks up floral aromas.L. Malbec. loamy earth and tarry notes. An elegant. core of snappy wild berry and minerally notes.W. made. dried herb. Drink now. 4. $65 Makes a strong show of loamy earth. 2022. with a firm. cherry pie aromas and appealing flavors of smoky red plum $48 Intense and flavorful. with earth-scented anise and wild berry. Drink now through floral. delicate style. with jazzy raspberry and dried herb details. The raspberry and black cherry flavors emerge now. offering lively cherry Centered on a core of tart wild berry and blackberry Medium-weight yet muscular.F.—J. blueberry and juiciness. Ends clean and lingering. with lively acidity and touch of mid. with 88 Pedroncelli Zinfandel Dry Creek Valley Rosé violet.L.—T. 90 Occidental Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast Occi. jasmine and licorice details. spicy mix of pep.—T. earth-laced raspberry and wild Other with a floral fragrance. as the supple core of cherry.—T. 625 831 cases made. of tart wild berry and raspberry. made. tea and Madre Vineyard 2013 $45 Smoky. 89 Saintsbury Chardonnay Carneros Sangia- 89 Sojourn Pinot Noir Russian River Valley como Green Acres 2014 $46 Pithy citrus blossom 90 Raen Pinot Noir Fort Ross-Seaview Home Wohler Vineyard 2014 $48 A lighter. Drink now. 107 cases the finish this pulls back a bit in focus. understated effort. Drink creamy oak. Should be better in a year.—J. bode well for the future. Ends with snappy 90 Scherrer Pinot Noir Russian River Valley King tannins and acidity. accented by peppery white flowers.L. 366 cases made. The better of two bottles tasted. with jammy notes of raspberry. Rita Hills Melville Dry Signature Selection 2015 $12 A jammy Cali- Vineyard 2013 $50 Well-oaked and well done. 150 cases made. featuring a tannins that turn peppery. with lico. 2. 89 VML Pinot Noir Russian River Valley Limited Wild Thing Old Vine 2014 $19 Bold aromas of bri- Release 2013 $35 Fans out to a broad.L. with gripping tannins imparting a bright fruit pro. tannins are assertive and dominant. displaying Vine 2014 $18 Zesty. 20.L. accented by hints of cinnamon. 293 cases made.—J. featuring a mix of plum and raspberry flavors.—J. focus and persistence. A cedary oak note weighs in.—J. A hint of green tea shows on the finish. but the finish reveals promising notes cherry and spicy caramel. 1. 1.—J. nins are firm and fine-grained. and spice aromas and supple flavors of red currant. blueberry and light cedary oak notes. 2016 . 803 cases made. Drink now.L.F.—J. with bak- 88 Rochioli Pinot Noir Russian River Valley 2014 cases made. made. 2. Drink now through 2024.—T.L. with plum. Drink now through 2014 $25 Weaves together a mix of zesty red berry and 2023.000 2014 $48 Complex and generous. spice and floral scents make this easy to enjoy. if modest in scale. Ends clean and pure.000 cases made. anise and mineral notes. Sierra Madre Vineyard Single Vineyard Series 2014 Vineyard 2013 $45 A potent smoky. with a mix of spicy. At Sonoma Heritage Vines 2014 $18 A jammy. 6. 11. with a charming array of juicy plum.400 cases Sonoma County Grand Reserve 2013 $30 The underbrush underneath.000 cases made. zesty red and with gripping tannins that need time to ease up. easygoing fla- 90 Saintsbury Pinot Noir Napa Valley Carneros of dried fruit flavors. 2. toasty. ture.—T. ripe tannins and apple notes. 89 Rock Wall Zinfandel Russian River Valley 89 Neyers Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast Roberts Julie’s Vineyard 2014 $25 Plush and zesty.—J. Drink now. Drink now. black tea–infused olive and bittersweet chocolate. A great value. with shades of cedar. 2. offering a mix of smoky currant. 30. cherry and blueberry notes vors of smoky raspberry.F. 50. 270 cases 89 Carol Shelton Zinfandel Mendocino County made. Drink now persistent aftertaste. 600 cases made. 2015 $22 Bright rose petal and strawberry aromas open $100 Straddles the line between snappy.—T.—J. finish. raspberry flavors. adding up to a supple. 40.300 cases 341 cases made.—J. structure. snappy vibrancy and a minerally edge.000 cases 87 Big Smooth Zinfandel California Old Vine 90 Testarossa Pinot Noir Santa Lucia Highlands made.L.L. The tan. charge ahead.800 cases made.L. but the flavors County 2014 $49 The peach.—J.F.L. Drink 522 cases made.F. 560 cases made. 496 cases made.—J. Drink now through 88 Bonaccorsi Pinot Noir Sta. Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon. trim band of zesty wild berry. marked by dried Valley 2015 $18 The clean. with a savory tobacco now.032 cases made.800 cases made. licorice and pepper. black tea–accented tannins. Drink now through 2024.W. Grenache and Petite Sirah. bitter chocolate and the palate.867 cases now. Drink now. herb and underbrush. through 2022.F. toasty oak frames 89 Joseph Carr Red Blend Rutherford 2012 $40 dusty earth. with good focus on the through 2023.L. with black raspberry.L. succulent mix of 90 Walt Pinot Noir Anderson Valley Blue Jay 2014 $40 There’s lots to admire in this rich. offering cherry and spice flavors. 10. 90 Saintsbury Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast Pratt and dimension to the elegant mix of cherry and raspberry 88 Rancho Zabaco Zinfandel Dry Creek Valley Vineyard 2014 $62 Exhibits a zesty.L. with appealing some softness and mature plum and rose petal flavors. berry to the snappy. blackberry. 313 cases made. with plenty of backbone and structure. 2. There’s much and plum flavors up front.000 cases made. pery notes. with appealing raspberry and spice flavors. 1. 89 Lando Pinot Noir Russian River Valley 2014 89 Lazy Creek Pinot Noir Anderson Valley Rosé dental Station Vineyard Cuvée Catherine 2013 $42 Trim.F. New Releases: California 90 Lynmar Pinot Noir Russian River Valley Five Sisters 2013 $100 Presents a juicy.—J. toasty wood presence that adds texture Drink now. supple watermelon and mineral flavors. zesty points savory and dusty. anise and 87 Kendall-Jackson Cabernet Sauvignon to be admired in this effort. Drink now through 2021. 3. amid the smoke and toast details. dark berry flavors. now.L. Drink made.—T.147 cases made.L. 90 Peter Michael Pinot Noir Fort Ross-Seaview black olive.900 cases made. and cracked pepper. 340 cases made. Drink now.650 cases made. black flavors.L. vibrant lemon and lime able on the finish. Viognier and 2014 $45 Packs in a tight core of spicy wild berry and 89 Byron Pinot Noir Santa Maria Valley Sierra Chardonnay. The 88 Laetitia Pinot Noir Arroyo Grande Valley notes of cherry. earth. Drink now. with fresh herb and green integration. Drink now. ending with minerally tannins that 2018. giving this a long. 2022. veals backbone and focus. 511 cases red berry themes built on fine-grained tannins that impart The tannic mix suggests a promising future. showing a touch of hazelnut and nutmeg amid the black cherry flavors.L. Ends with firm.L.—J.—J. plum and strawberry flavors. Drink now. pepper and licorice fla- Sleek and smoky. plum and wild berry re. palate suppleness.670 cases made. Focused and trim. Drink now through 2025. The fleshy plum. blueberry and wild berry flavors. 500 cases made. fleshy expanse ary cherry and cracked pepper lead to zesty. 90 Occidental Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast Bodega 89 Kokomo Cuvée Sonoma County 2014 $26 Headlands Vineyard Cuvée Elizabeth 2013 $100 89 La Crema Pinot Noir Los Carneros 2013 $40 This easygoing red blend is fun to sip. tomato leaf and cedar. The tannins are grippy and 2015 $12 A fun quaff. now. pleasing length. 100 cases made.988 cases made.—T.—J.F. An oak. Drink now. dominated effort that may benefit from bottle time.—J.800 cases made. 87 Ancient Peaks Merlot Santa Margarita Ranch Vineyard 2012 $46 A tender.L. licorice. seductive style that caresses well-structured flavors of cherry. 87 Contour Pinot Noir Napa-Monterey-Sonoma 87 Plungerhead Zinfandel Dry Creek Valley Old Counties 2013 $15 Exhibits a mix of dusty wild berry fruit and brambly. fleshy and juicy.L. Drink now. 212 cases made. Drink now through 2021. cherry. more elegant and tart white peach notes impart appealing vibrancy and Field 2014 $65 A stylish offering that is spicy and style. Cabernet Sauvi- file and an edgy texture. vors.L. blackberry ing spice aromas and fine-grained tannins. Drink now. The ripe tan. 3. pleasing style. Best from 2017 flavors are ripe. depth and finesse. More agree. this is also supple and caressing.L.—J.L. with accents an easy-drinking if rustic personality. penetrating acidity and tannins.—J. 89 Dry Creek Sauvignon Blanc Dry Creek rice. Drink now. melon and nectarine made. the fruit struggles to push through. Drink now. complex gnon. Drink now.—J.—T. from the zesty. Drink the wood lingers. scented wild berry flavors and brambly.000 of dried cherry. Drink now.—J. where the flavors show better berry.L. Drink now Clos Du Ciel 2014 $130 Marked an assertive woody.—T. silky. 90 Masut Pinot Noir Eagle Peak Estate Vineyard finish. toasty core.—J. showing 2013 $18 A solid Merlot. this is a fun quaff.—J.—J. 144 WINE SPECTATOR • SEPT. yet persistent. On 89 Admirable Blanc & Blanc Santa Barbara nins hold the flavors on the palate.

rich and ripe. Should benefit from tannins give way to flavor. County 2015 $17 Apple blossom. Firm minty finish. and complexity.—H. Cabernet Franc.S. This savory style stacks notes of smoked meat. Drink now through 2023. dark and spicy. offering rose petal–accented cherry.S.000 cases made. 93 Isenhower Syrah Yakima Valley Dutchman 2017 through 2023.800 cases made. Comes together harmoniously and lingers well.S. Cabernet Franc bay leaf and floral notes. peppery now through 2023. WASHINGTON Petit Verdot and Merlot. which offers presence ish. Best from 2018 through 2025.—H. Best from 2017 through 2023. wrapping the blackberry. through 2023. 93 Januik Cabernet Sauvignon Red Mountain WASHINGTON roasted lamb and black olive flavors that float over a richly textured. layering a layer of crunchy tannins surrounding a core of blueberry. 500 cases made. orange peel and fresh herb notes. showing pure plum.—H. floral overtones to the dense blackberry and plum & MARTY TAUCHER made. edges. 12. coming together harmoniously against and open-textured.000 cases made. 267 cases to the blackberry and dark plum fruit. Best seamlessly on the finish. Has presence molasses over a generous core of dark plum and black 92 DeLille D2 Columbia Valley 2013 $49 Broad and a sense of deftness. Best from 2018 of green olive–accented dark plum. Best from 2018 94 Horsepower Grenache Walla Walla Valley tannins. SEPT. Tannins grip but let the flavors through. 2016 • WINE SPECTATOR 145 . with a green Tales Stoney Vine Vineyard 2013 $60 Firm and A whiff of passion fruit adds some vibrancy to the citrus olive edge to the black cherry and rose petal flavors.S. dark plum and floral flow into a long and pointed finish. Best 2013 $48 Firm. Drink now. Best from 2017 through line the persistent finish.S. melon and citrus flavors are smooth and succulent. Drink now through 2021.S. 5. textured and refined. meshing harmoniously on the chewy finish. with a juicy. cases made. by powdery tannins.—H. open-weave structure. with firm tannins around a lum 2013 $45 Rich and expressive. 92 Mark Ryan Syrah Red Mountain Wild Eyed ernet Sauvignon and Petit Verdot. Best from 2018 Needs time in the cellar to soften the tannins.S.102 cases made. Best from 2017 through 2023. 95 Two Vintners Syrah Walla Walla Valley Some 92 Côte Bonneville Chardonnay Yakima Valley Syrah and Petit Verdot. with bacon and black olive over. 8. Best from 2018 through Merlot and Cabernet Franc.S. Has presence and grace. tain Lonely Heart 2013 $95 Dense and focused. 570 cases made.500 cases made. leading to a spicy.—H. with a meaty edge Cheval Vineyard Collaboration Series II 2012 $65 Drink now through 2020. Drink ing together harmoniously against formidable tannins on playing against licorice and tar notes. Best from Broad.—H. and expressive finish. berry and currant aromas and flavors.S. with WASHINGTON bia Valley 2013 $140 Broad and expressive. appealing 91 Leonetti Reserve Walla Walla Valley 2013 91 Nefarious Syrah Columbia Valley Rocky finish that shows lingering floral details. Drink now through 2022.—H. 115 Broad. supple and open- 15. Best from 2018 through 2023. appealing mix of apricot and 91 Januik Cabernet Sauvignon Horse Heaven 91 Kerloo Syrah Walla Walla Valley Les Collines peach flavors. with well-tamped Syrah Drink now through 2021. bright and refreshing. Drink now through 2021. focused. black tea and dried orange peel sharply focused beam of blackberry and currant flavors.705 cases made.S.—H. Drink now through 2021. The peppery tannins are nicely in. 150 cases made.—H. The flavors textured. riding into a long Vineyard 2013 $34 Supple. and Petit Verdot. coming together with a sense that focuses the finish against well-managed but present of precision. supple 250 cases made.750 cases made.—M. broad and brimming with minerally character that and spice flavors.—H. Cabernet Sau.S. refined tannins on the extensive finish. Borders on opulent. Cabernet Sauvignon & Blends 91 Mark Ryan Cabernet Sauvignon Red Moun- 94 Quilceda Creek Cabernet Sauvignon Colum.—H.S. generous and open-textured. with a taut grip of tannins underlining a 2013 $39 Dark berry.S. 2023. full-bodied finish. with a touch of apple blossom and white Hills Champoux Vineyard 2013 $55 Broad and 2013 $40 Tannins swarm over the dark plum and pepper. cherry flavors. open.—H. pear and black tea flavors into a beam currant and mocha flavors. with prickly tannins stud- floating like a big balloon over lightly grippy tannins. with a gorgeous beam of plum and guava flavors and melon flavors.—H. Comes together wends through rich blackberry and cherry flavors. 281 cases made. finishing with in. with aromatic 91 Avennia Valery Columbia Valley 2013 $50 pulsing core of tobacco-accented plum. Echalas Vineyard 2013 $120 Broad and expressive. Cabernet Sauvignon.—M.—H. currant and floral notes in powdery tannins. currant and white pepper flavors with 92 Mercer Malbec Horse Heaven Hills Robert tegrated. 200 cases made. 215 cases made.W. Needs cellaring to soften the ing with hints of cocoa and pepper. 1.—H. Finishes with a lovely sense of Willis Reserve 2013 $55 Broad and expressive. Days Are Stones Stoney Vine Vineyard 2013 $45 DuBrul Vineyard 2013 $50 Sleek. Owners & Winemakers flavors.S. that come together harmoniously on the persistent finish. polished. 92 Mark Ryan Dead Horse Red Mountain 2013 92 Force Majeure Syrah Red Mountain Parabel- $55 Dense. Best after 2018.W. and studded with almond-accented pear. 384 2023. Sur Echalas Vineyard 2013 $120 Deep and expres- Best from 2018 through 2025. texturally compelling and layered with cherry. coming together and plum. Best after 2018. 735 cases purity and class.—H. Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot.—H.S. 470 cases made. cherry. on the palate against formidable tannins. from 2018 through 2023. layering the plum. Fine tannins under- now. the finish. flavors mingle harmoniously against nubby tannins in this persisting against tar and mocha notes into a vibrant fin. 175 91 Avennia Gravura Colum- 92 Horsepower Syrah Walla Walla Valley Sur cases made. Grenache 92 Baer Callisto Columbia Valley 2013 $39 harmony and precision. Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. cedar and sassafras that play Firm. Other black cherry. finish- vignon.—H. 123 cases made. currant and cherry flavors.—H. made. Drink and Cabernet Sauvignon. finishing with lessly and lingering on the expressive finish. guava and rose petal notes that swirl together into a long.500 cases made. 95 Horsepower Syrah Walla Walla Valley The 93 La Rata Walla Walla Valley 2013 $70 erous finish. 1. framed made. Best after 2019.130 cases made. gen. 242 cases made. harmoniously on the expressive. New Releases: California / Washington 87 Shannon Ridge Sauvignon Blanc Lake 91 DeLille Cabernet Sauvignon Red Mountain 91 Dusted Valley Syrah Walla Walla Valley Tall County High Elevation Collection 2015 $19 Four Flags 2013 $69 Firm and chewy. gering easily on the undulating finish. lin- through 2023.S. sive. Merlot and Cabernet Franc. cases made. Has presence and length. focused. expressively spicy Syrah.S.—H.—H. Cabernet 92 Fidelitas Optu Red Mountain 2013 $50 Sauvignon.—H. currant strong meaty note. hanging the blueberry. but gains balance at the end. the interest as the finish locks in and keeps resonating. gliding into a long and made. marvelous expression and length. 100 cases made. thyme and spice. The finish rolls on smoothly and har- moniously. Cabernet Sauvignon. with black cherry. Has depth and refinement.S. with spicy. Cabernet Sauvignon.—H.S.W. focused. with tannins surrounding a plush core 1.—H. made.—M. Drink now through 2023. 1. with pepper and licorice overtones ding a core of blackberry. Merlot. Merlot. plum. page 119. Finishes with a $50 Dark and spicy. with smoky. Lingers with presence. Best after 87 Terra d’Oro Pinot Grigio Santa Barbara through 2021. Merlot and Cabernet Franc. juicy finish.S. com. $150 Focused and expressive. ing. bia Valley 2013 $35 Broad and generous. 187 cases Tribe Vineyard 2013 $120 Supple. Finishes long and vibrant.S. licorice and cedar flavors blackberry flavors.000 cases expressive. Polished. made. notes weaving through a core of currant and plum. Cabernet Sauvignon. gravy and tensity against moderately grippy tannins.—H. Best from 2019 through 2023. 87 Terra d’Oro Chenin Blanc-Viognier Clarks- burg 2015 $16 A juicy.S. Cab- cellaring. velvety and expressive. flavors on a generous but relatively weightless frame. pineapple and floral flavors. Merlot. Complex and invit- after 2018. Drink now.S. complex. tannins surrounding a glowing core of black cherry.S. 173 cases dripping with spicy plum.S. 174 cases made. but needs to shed the tannins with cellaring. blackberry. picking up spicy notes as the finish lingers 92 Carden Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia 93 Force Majeure Syrah Red Mountain Ciel Du easily.—H. cherry notes of blackberry. 2013 $40 Supple and expressive.—H.—H. Mother Vineyard 2012 $45 Lithe. 207 cases made. Valley 2013 $44 Chewy and tangy. 2018. See Highly Recommended. Mouthwatering finish.S. This has depth. 2. Licorice and green olive notes add to made.—H. Merlot. 30. 3. Cabernet Sauvignon. currant. coming together seam- tones to the plum and currant flavors.S.S.S. Drink now through 2020. 142 cases Best from 2017 through 2021. with 91 Mark Ryan Long Haul Red Mountain 2013 earthy plum and spice flavors at the core. 91 Avennia Sestina Columbia Valley 2013 $65 92 Three Rivers Syrah Walla Walla Valley Firm in texture. to the black cherry and coffee flavors. linger- ing gently on the expressive finish. black. 800 cases CHRIS PETERSON peppery.

1986.com Void where prohibited. Contact Jed Benedict at at www.com. Cash in person. For additional information. Est.com — we’ll even arrange shipping.com. S E L L YO U R P R O P E R LY STO R E D W I N E S TO 250kW backup generator. Contact Joel Rubins the legality or accuracy of classified I BUY WINE! Full collection bid upon. (773) 248-6800. Visit advertising appearing in this publication. Small group. Over 1. Wine Spectator’s Selling Your Wine Collection? WineRatings+ Contact us for a free appraisal. tion with condition reports. THE BOR- Irving Park. Tours@ItaliaDolceVita. (941) 960.ItaliaDolceVita. E-mail your list to include online inventory.horseridgecellars. We handle all logistics.westerncarriers. bottle picking.com with wine list. BUYI NG /SE L L I NG F I NE WI NE WESTERN CARRIERS – PROVENANCE PERFECT! Climate-controlled storage. 1-321 or email cchiaffitella@mshanken. 24 hour on-site security. restaurants.com/sell. artisan CHICAGO — THE STRONGBOX WINE CELLAR. Sell Your Wine!  Immediate Payment.com/Collectors. 860-763-5380 or www. 2016 .BXWINEX. (888) 802-9929 Fax (650) 802-9465 john@belmontwine.jjbuckley.com monthly. www. Toll free 1-866-909-WINE or email ben@ us at http://www. WI NE TOURS & DESTINATIONS WE BUY MULTI MILLION DOLLAR COLLECTIONS OF ITALIA DOLCE VITA–UNIQUE TRAVEL EXPERIENCES.winestorage.000 wines added Please visit: www. (800) 631-7776 x7243 or joel@westerncarriers. View website tory. Constant 55°/70% at $20. Services or cchiaffitella@mshanken. Full ownership privileges w/voting humidity.com. Global customer base. Smaller collections also purchased. 30+ years of personalized service JJ BUCKLEY FINE WINES. or call 888. I will travel to you. Also California’s WI NE STO RAG E FAC I L I TI E S Apartment & Villa rentals. 146 WINE SPECTATOR • SEPT. contact Christina Chiaffitella at (212) 481-8610 ext.com sales@tkwine. Our Signature Series is the definitive wine experience for connoisseurs. www. Maximum Price  Upfront.com Wine Spectator’s Help WantedSection is the ideal place to list your wine-related job opening. Orleans. Deliveries accepted. Tel. Offered least expensive storage option. WINE AND WHISKEY Guaranteed Highest Prices paid for Authentic Food & Wine small group boutique Tours Uncork Qualified Collections. www. (312) 787-2800.com.000 per share. same-day DEL payment option available! IV STA ERIES  No fees AT $ RT 134*  Located in California Call us at (424) 263-5508 or email www. For more information about placing an ad. and Wine Spectator accepts no responsibility for visit www. cellaraiders.com. California.com. Immediate response.com for a free estimate! ® (800) 777-4443 WINERATINGS+Download the world’s premier wine app today! www.4637. Transportation services available.7011 90+ Rated Wines Highly rated. WINE LOVERS TOUR BORDEAUX: Visit First Growths with the Bordeaux specialist.montedeoro.com. We’ll buy your wines at (212) 481-8610 ext.com. refrigerated national shipping. Every exquisite bottle 100% guaranteed.tkwine. fast payment for collectors. CONTACT CHRISTINA CHIAFFITELLA. Stay at our Chateau for great wine. Contact: mnelson@montedeoro.com. Open 7 days a week.belmontwine. Wherever you are and whatever your expertise. We come to you. 336-869-3776 Specialist and Culinary Travel Professional.com. perfect price. physical inspec- consign@jjbuckley. 1650 W. Extensive international/do- mestic wine inventory for sale. *Plus s/h and tax where applicable. 30. and private tours.cellaraiders. 1516 N.com wines delivered.com. no minimums. will help you find your Sell outright for immediate payment perfect wine at the or consign at the low rate of 15%. daily local transport. food & fun. TO PLACE AN AD.859. Online inven- power. individual lockers of various sizes. and auction houses.cawineclub. BUSI NE SS O PPO RTUNI TI E S HORSE RIDGE CELLARS — Paying too much for storage? CLASSIFIEDS Wish you had better service? Offering the finest service and INVESTMENT OPPORTUNITY: Fifteen partnership shares in Monte De Oro winery in Temecula. DEAUX WINE EXPERIENCE: www. limited-production. Humidity/temperature controlled storage facility. and Tailor Made Vacations designed by Italian Wine selling@wine-liquidators. 321 outright! Competitive offers.

Outside the U. POSTMASTER: send all ad- • 3.com/address. Ask about the “wine tours” section of our website.winespectator. Deadline for advertising. August and September for $49.00 for back issues in the U. April.com/backissue or call 1-800-761-4099.A.S. For back-issue requests. lovers? RestauRant awaRds app New • Free • Powerful Search • Easy to Use Wine Spectator’s readers enjoy wine and traveling. Per-copy price is $5. Publication will be at the discretion of the editor. 2016 • WINE SPECTATOR 147 . Find Award-Winning www.S. call Christina Chiaffitella at (212) 481-8610 ext. Inc. Periodicals postage paid at New York. Restaurants Near You • Map Location For more information. 2016 WINE SPECTATOR ® is a registered trademark of M. 7 WINE SPECTATOR (ISSN 0193-497X) is published semi-monthly on the 15th and the last day of each month except bi-monthly in January and • Reserve a Table February and monthly in March. 321 • Wine List Strengths or email cchiaffitella@mshanken.00 including GST and overseas subscriptions are $145.com.winespectator. and Canada. or visit www. or transmitted in any Free Download Today App form or by any means (electronic. New York. • Price Range Vol.00. photocopying or otherwise) without the prior search for written permission of the copyright owner © 2016 M.com/subscribe.95 per year by M. Editorial contributions should be sent to the New York office. Inc. Shanken Communications. Want to find restaurants with great wine lists? culinary or gourmet tour of special interest to wine Download our new app.S.com. No part of this publication may be reproduced. both display and classified. is 60 days prior to the date of the issue in which it is to appear. “restaurant awards” Printed in the U. No.500+ Listings dress changes and subscription inquiries to Wine Spectator. $7.. IA 50037-0367 or call 1-800-752-7799 in U. You can reach these connoisseurs by placing an ad under this heading. To order a new subscription write to the above address or call 1-800-752-7799 or visit www. NY and at additional mailing offices. $9. NY 10019. July. Box 37367. or Worldwide Canada call (212) 684-4224 or fax (212) 481-0722. It’s free. visit www.winespectator.00 for all for- eign. stored in a retrieval system. Shanken Communications. All Rights Reserved.95 for the current issue.winespectator.O. 30. Boone. Shanken Communications Inc. 825 Eighth Ave. and Canada. mechanical. 33rd Floor. We are not responsible for unsolicited manuscripts. 41.. May.Do you have a wine.S. Canadian subscriptions are $80. SEPT. P.

a benign bacterium con. Back in the 1990s. minerality and seashell. here and at winespectator. Aging wine in new Chardonnay from both ITALY oak barrels can also impart some of the char. INAO. yielding buttery Dear Lisa. Some CALIFORNIA Blanc de Blancs Champagne 718. IT IS WHAT YOU MAKE OF IT Chardonnay’s great adaptability to climates warm and cool. and we drink sometimes referred to as “malolactic fermen. If you’re Gretzky retired from the ice to looking for buttery Chardonnays. FRANCE Hockey legend Wayne 530. first with SOUTH AFRICA Wine Ratings search and get hundreds of re. In its ancestral home of Burgundy. Vinny. the most prominent fruit mango are typical of prized for their chalky popcorn aromas and You’re right—many winemakers these days flavors associated with riper styles. WOSA.winespectator. toast and vanilla. along with pears. 87. and its friendly malleability lends it to everything from bright Champagnes to rich dessert wines. 2016 . like salinity. During ML.000 tons descriptors that incorporate buttery notes. Mount Pleasant. FAS Buenos Aires. an organic compound that is a by- Fa m o us Gra pe AMERICA’S SWEETHEART Chardonnay is the most grown and most consumed product of malolactic conversion. your queries at www. winemakers can pick and choose ac.com/drvinny or on Twitter via @AskDrVinny. hallmark of New World Chardonnays. Canada and California. I miss the old “buttery” style of Chardon- nay. Chardonnay thrives from Australia to the United States. Australian Vanilla Puddin’ label has all Bureau of Statistics.000 tons California’s Virgin Vines and sults for wines with the term “butter” in the now at his South African ARGENTINA tasting note. FAQ WINE’S GOLDEN GIRL Revered for centuries from the crus of Burgundy and Chablis. VINNY Dear Dr. wines that AUSTRALIA make ice wine. ROBERT KAMAU/GC IMAGES. and there are FROM TOP TO BOTTOM: ISTOCK (4) . What made them taste that way. Wines of Chile Dr.” 32.000 tons WineSpectator. DR.000 tons acteristics often associated with buttery Char- CHILE donnays. Full malolactic conver- —Lisa. Vinny Actress Gabrielle Union’s Estimates based on 2014 figures from Wine Institute. like caramel. there were plenty of what I called “movie- theater popcorn” Chardonnays. Vinny provides answers to all sorts of wine the caramel and butterscotch (2010). 200. CODIE MCLACHLAN/GETTY IMAGES. British billionaire Richard 125. or ML (and Hip-hop mogul Jay Z likes wine in the United States. Italian Agriculture Census (2010). CHRIS RATCLIFFE/BLOOMBERG/GETTY IMAGES. along with have undergone a full malolactic conversion 375. Tropical fruit flavors Cool-climate Chardon.C.000 tons various styles of barrel-aged are a great place to start. others. riper. S. Submit you can fit in a wineglass. and how can I find wines like that today? Apples of all colors. 30. expensive things that bottlings from across the globe. in warmer New World regions like California and Australia.com. are such as pineapple and nays such as Chablis are sion. 148 WINE SPECTATOR • SEPT.” “pastry” or “brioche. sparkle—why would his verts malic acid (like in tart green apples) into Chardonnay be any differ. allow it to be made in a broad range of styles. and its versatility in the hands of the winemaker. tation”).000 tons strains of bacteria produce more diacetyl than checks in at $675 a bottle. Love those buttery California NEW ZEALAND like “piecrust.000 tons Chardonnays of yesteryear? —Dr. richer. elegance and minerality are prized properties. Also look for wines with other Mont Rochelle vineyard. 77. New Zealand Wine questions. in their Chardonnays. flavors.com members can go to our Branson has twice dabbled in Chardonnay. was once the have moved away from overtly buttery tones Chardonnay. more fruit-forward versions have prevailed. JEMAL COUNTESS/GETTY IMAGES PORTRAIT still some out there! Fa m o us Fa ce s o f a That buttery flavor typically comes from diacetyl. ANNUAL CHARDONNAY PRODUCTION ent? His Armand de Brignac softer lactic acid (as in cream or butter).000 tons cording to the style they’re going for.