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JOURNEYS TO AUTHENTIC

AUSTRALIA
travel beyond your expectations

Away from the eastern seaboard lies a treasure trove of superb
beaches, mind-blowing natural features, authentic outback
experiences, world-class wines and gourmet fare, ancient
Aboriginal cultures, rare and precious fauna, and, of course, the
resilient and welcoming people who have made this part of
Australia the intriguing and unforgettable place it is.

Travelling to Australia? Travel beyond your expectations with this mini-
JOURNEYS TO AUTHENTIC
AUSTRALIA
guide to South Australia, Northern Territory and Western Australia.

Specially produced by Lonely Planet with the assistance of South Aus-
tralian Tourism Commission, Northern Territory Tourist Commission and
Tourism Western Australia.

travel beyond your expectations
www.southaustralia.com

www.australiasoutback.com

www.westernaustralia.com

SPECIALLY PRODUCED BY: SPECIALLY PRODUCED BY:

We seek to inspire the right kind of travel – The Lonely
Planet style embraces the positive power of independ-
ent travel to transform both travellers and the communities
to which they travel. The Lonely Planet way means
taking risks, leaving behind the everyday, experiencing
a culture at first hand and discovering the people, the
land, the history. Our responsibility is to ensure millions
travel with respect, sensitivity, curiosity and with a liberal
sense of humour.

Journeys to Authentic Australia Authored at Lonely Planet by: Peter Cruttenden,
Travel beyond your expectations George Dunford and Susannah Farfor Project Man-
First published – June 2005 agement: Chris Love Design: Nic Lehman Layout:
Published by Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Laura Jane and Mark Germanchis Editing: Adrienne
Business Solutions in conjunction with Costanzo and Yvonne Byron Cartography: Paul Piaia,
South Australian Tourism Commission, Wayne Murphy, Corey Hutchison and David Connolly
Tourism Western Australia, and Business Development: Blake Hutchison
Northern Territory Tourist Commission Text Lonely Planet Publications 2005
ABN 36 005 607 983 Photographs from Lonely Planet Images, South
90 Maribyrnong Street, Footscray, VIC 3011, Australia Australian Tourism Commission, Tourism Western
www.lonelyplanet.com.au or AOL keyword: lp Australia and Northern Territory Tourist Commission
Printed in Melbourne by Print Graphics

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sustainied by anyone using this book.

JOURNEYS TO AUTHENTIC
AUSTRALIA
travel beyond your expectations

www.southaustralia.com

www.australiasoutback.com

www.westernaustralia.com

Kangaroo Island South Australia .

the resilient and welcoming people who have made this part of Australia the intriguing and unforgettable place it is. of course. world-class wines and gourmet fare. mind-blowing natural features. authentic outback experiences. or swam with whale sharks on Ningaloo Reef. ancient Aboriginal cultures. and. They’d wonder how you spent so much time and effort reaching this remote continent and still managed to miss out on seeing the best bits. and before long you’ll be bidding farewell to the travellers stuck on the beaten track of the east-coast tourist route and embarking on an extraordinary series of experiences that will stay in your mind forever. central. Plan your itinerary accordingly. rare and precious fauna. or plunged into a crystal-clear outback water hole. Everything that’s special and unique about the beautiful southern. northern and western areas of this amazing continent can be found within these pages. or watched whales and their calves cavorting along the Nullarbor coast. This booklet will help you to avoid such awkward moments.EXPERIENCE AUTHENTIC AUSTRALIA Away from Australia’s eastern seaboard lies a treasure-trove of superb beaches. . Just imagine returning home from your Australian adventure and having to admit to your friends that that you never saw the sun come up over Uluru. or explored the magnificent bush in Wilpena Pound. or witnessed millions of waterbirds taking flight in the Kakadu wetlands.

Uluru Northern Territory .

or staying put for a while when you find somewhere that captures your interest.southaustralia. allowing you to travel on your own terms.au) buses offer excellent ‘jump on–jump off’ tickets.au) and Virgin Blue (www.au) flies into Adelaide. which can be a great way to cut down on travelling times.com www. Hiring or buy- ing a car will give you the greatest flexibility. and can connect to numerous smaller centres and Jetstar (www.greyhound.australiasoutback. Qantas (www. Take a look at the following websites for more information www. taking in the best of the attractions on the way.jetstar. Perth.virginblue.com. Another great option is to embark on one of Australia’s two great train journeys: the Indian Pacific (Sydney to Perth) and The Ghan (Adelaide to Darwin). Alice Springs and Broome.com. going where and when you like. ACCESSING AUSTRALIA’S HEART & SOUL Getting started is as easy as taking a flight or turning the ignition key. If you’re willing to play things by ear. See Lonely Planet’s latest Australia guide for details of all transport options within Australia.com . the best way to get a real appreciation of the beauty and majesty of this part of Australia is on four wheels.com.westernaustralia. Darwin.qantas.au) fly into Adelaide. cheap flights are available at short notice. Greyhound (www .com www. while several companies offer extended tours between capital cities.com. However.

Bunbury Collie Esperance Adelaide Cape Naturaliste Bay NP Margaret River Manjimup Port Cape Leeuwin Albany Lincoln Victor 35ºS Kangaroo Is Harbor 115ºE 110ºE VIC Naracoorte SOUTHERN Mt Gambier OCEAN Portland NT 40ºS WA SA 0 400 km 0 240 miles 120ºE 135ºE 140ºE 130ºE 125ºE . Woomera ges lain Broken Southern Boulder rbor P Moora Nulla CedunaR Gaw Hill Fl Cervantes Cross Head an le Port Eucla of Bight ge r s Augusta Perth NSW Northam Norseman Whyalla Fremantle Great Australian Bight Eyre Port Pirie Coffin Pen. Laverton Kalbarri Mt Magnet Gwalia Coober Pedy Lake Eyre South Geraldton Rainnders Kalgoorlie. AUTHENTIC AUSTRALIA EAST Arafura Sea Sumbawa Savu Sea Timor TIMOR Cobourg Sumba Melville Is Peninsula Wessel Is Savu Bathurst Island Mary Nhulunbuy Timor River NP Jabiru Cape Arnhem Ashmore Reef Darwin Cartier Is Sea Joseph Arnhem (Australia) Cape Bonaparte Litchfield Kakadu Land Gulf of Londonderry NP Gulf NP Katherine Carpentaria INDIAN Mataranka Groote Eylandt Wyndham y Kununurra Hw Rd ria Collier Bay Victo OCEAN Borroloola Mornington r ve Lake Is Ri Cape Leveque bb Gi Argyle Dampier Derby Elliott Burketown Peninsula Fitzroy Purnululu NP Crossing Broome Halls Creek Eighty Mile Beach Tennant Creek Great Sandy Desert NT Mt Isa Port Hedland Karratha Lake Mackay Boulia Tom Gibson Desert MacDonn ell ExmouthPrice Mereenie Ranges Newman Lake Disappointment Loop Alice Springs QLD Paraburdoo Karijini NP Yulara Simpson WA Kata Tjuta Uluru Desert Birdsville Lake Carnegie Carnarvon Shark Bay Marla Oodnadatta Meekatharra Great Victoria Desert Lake Eyre SA Leonora.

southaustralia.JOURNEYS TO AUTHENTIC AUSTRALIA travel beyond your expectations THE GREAT SOUTHEAST 9 ADELAIDE & AROUND 15 RED CENTRE 23 THE TRACK 31 THE TOP END 37 THE KIMBERLEY 43 WESTERN COAST 49 THE GREAT SOUTHWEST 55 THE NULLARBOR PLAIN & EYRE PENINSULA 61 www.australiasoutback.westernaustralia.com .com www.com www.

MURR RIVE AY R THE GREAT SOUTHEAST Waikerie Renmark To Port Augusta Hamley Kapunda Blanchetown Berri Ardrossan Bridge Nuriootpa Loxton Tanunda Wunkar Gawler Swan Reach Williamstown Gulf Paruna St Vincent Wanbi Murray-Sunset ADELAIDE Halidon National Park Billiat Berrook CP Mt Barker Murray Bridge Karte McLaren Vale Strathalbyn Fleurieu Tailem Bend Pinnaroo Peninsula Lameroo Mallee Hwy Murrayville Normanville Port Middleton Cape Elliot Goolwa Yumali SA Jervis Victor Granite Harbor Is Penneshaw Meningie Coonalpyn Yo Pe Ngarkat un ni Culburra CP gh nsu us la KANGAROO Tintinara ba nd ISLAND Coorong National Salt Creek Park Keith Du kes VIC Prin Hw y ces Bordertown Kaniva Hwy Mundulla Padthaway Little Desert National Park Keppoch Frances SOUTHERN Kingston SE OCEAN Reedy Creek Cape Jaffa Naracoorte Naracoorte Caves Edenhope Robe Greenways Poolaijelo Clay Wells Coonawarra Penola Beachport Southend Nangwarry Millicent Canunda Casterton National Park Tantanoola To Melbourne 0 50 km (400km) 0 30 miles Mt Gambier Carpenter Rocks Dartmoor Port MacDonnell Discovery Bay .

23 cellar doors offering tastings and sion. so pick up a few examples of the stunning limestone caves or take the world’s finest reds to sustain you a self-guided tour of the eerie Wet on the journey ahead. THE GREAT SOUTHEAST Sweeping surf beaches. don’t blindingly white saltpans and good guzzling miss the amazing Bat Cave. so pull NARACOORTE CAVES & into the Coonawarra wine region COONAWARRA to taste the famous peppery Shiraz Just near the Victorian border. It’s thirsty work. Plunge underground to tour sales. but whatever you do. Arrive in a world-class wine region – could there at dusk to witness mass migrations be a better way to start your trip into South of bats clouding the sky or peek Australia? into their home using infrared TV cameras. breathtaking caves. Cave. Coonawarra South Australia . There are more than Caves National Park is a great diver. the from this compact wine-producing World Heritage–listed Naracoorte powerhouse.

au).com).danosurf October). or the host of and Port Elliot are perfect for tanning ducks. the ex- ian film Storm Boy. If you don’t know your Centre (www. to find the best places to spot the start learning the basics at the South southern right whales (seen June- Coast Surf Academy (www.com) goofyfooters from your hotdoggers.com. Taking its name from the local town. head to Camp Coorong (www ing buzz of skydiving – one experi- .COORONG NATIONAL PARK VICTOR HARBOR & THE SURF COAST The vast coastal lagoon of the Coo. school graduates) flock here at the ing long neck). where you can go ence you’re never likely to forget. finishing their exams. To work up the park. which are making a strong . pasties and cream buns on Western Australia’s central coast. Take a gander at cellent beaches of Goolwa. where you traditional lifestyle of the Ngarrindjeri can indulge in the adrenaline-pump- people.sawhalecentre. Take the old and unsealed a sweat. head to the Port Elliot Bakery SURFING SAFARI and line up with the locals for some of From Adelaide all the way to Kalbarri the best pies. From Victor it’s only a . And on guided walks and cultural tours. towering sand dunes and the largest great pubs and laid-back vibe make breeding ground for pelicans in the it the quintessential Aussie seaside state. if you’re feeling peckish after all that action. comeback after being hunted almost to extinction. some of the greatest surf breaks in While in Victor (as locals call it). Nearby. in the state. la.ngarrindjeri. For an insight into the Harbor’s Bluff to Goolwa. you can hire a bicycle to ride Coorong Rd south of Salt Creek to the 23km sealed Encounter Bikeway get an inside look at the dunes of that follows the coast east from Victor the Coorong. drop the world are just waiting for you and into the South Australian Whale your boardies. Middleton these remarkable birds. Victor Harbor’s sheltered beaches. The gateway to the Fleurieu Peninsu- rong takes in shimmering saltpans. keen to party after was a location for the classic Austral. this impressive vista end of the year. Crowds of ‘schoolies’ (high- Aboriginal word kranangk (mean. waders and swans throughout or tackling the big waves.

asn. or get the track. Australia’s Coorong National Park South Australia . back to basics at Maslin.au) do regular on Friday to hit top-class beaches like excursions to different sections of the surfie hang-out of Christies. Friends of the Heysen Trail Adelaidians sneaking out of work early (www. the Heysen Trail antics of the penguins as they return meanders 1200km through South from a hard day’s foraging in the Australia’s most stunning landscapes. You can do small sections – such as through the Barossa or around FLEURIEU PENINSULA Wilpena Pound – to get a taste for Head down the peninsula that has the trail. surrounding waters. Authentic Australia 11 five-minute stroll across the causeway or a short ride aboard the old. rieu Peninsula to Parachilna Gorge in Rug up at sunset to watch the comical the Flinders Ranges.heysentrail. HEYSEN TRAIL fashioned Clydesdale-drawn tram to From Cape Jervis on the tip of Fleu- the penguin parade at Granite Island.

in seventh heaven at Yankalilla Bay. hop on a camel to pace. McLaren Vale.first nudist beach. TOP 10 SOUTH AUSTRALIA Want to get straight to the best that South Australia has to offer? Here’s our top 10 picks: • Bushwalking around or taking a scenic flight over Wilpena Pound • Exploring Kangaroo Island’s pristine wilderness and wildlife • Slurping and sampling the Barossa • Tucking into feral food at the Prairie Hotel • Getting underground in Coober Pedy • Fabulous festivals of Adelaide • Discover the natural wonders of Arkaroola Wilderness Sanctuary • Surfing in the sun of the Fleurieu Peninsula • Swimming with sea lions at Baird Bay • Whale watching at Head of Bight . where afternoon’s play. The nearby Deep Creek Conservation Park self-drive trail starts at Blessed Cheese will keep you happily occupied for an (www.com. Or for drop-offs.blessedcheese. Finally.au). For a change of something different. bushwalking and fishing of and Wine Trail ($10 per person). divers will be owner Mark Potter (local foodie ex. while the is by taking the McLaren Vale Cheese beaches. head for the nearby wineries of do the rounds of the wineries. A good way to the natural wonders and relaxed am- experience the region’s cellar doors bience of Kangaroo Island. the town Australia’s most drinkable Sauvignon of Cape Jervis is just a ferry ride from Blancs and Sémillons. which produce some of At the tip of the peninsula. traordinaire) will send you on your way where HMAS Hobart has been scut- with a picnic hamper to enjoy with tled amid superb reefs and dramatic your tastings at four wineries.

Wilpena Pound South Australia .

Terowie Port ADELAIDE & AROUND Pirie Jamestown Whyte-Yarcowie Crystal Brook Merriton Hallett Spalding Port y Hw Broughton Cowell Burra Brinkworth Valley Cleve Clare n c ol Snowtown Lin Clare Arno Bay Wallaroo Kadina Spencer Moonta Gulf Maitland Kapunda y Balgowan Hamley lle Va Ardrossan Bridge Port Victoria Nuriootpa ssa Tanunda ro Ba Gawler Yorke Peninsula Williamstown Minlaton Gulf St Vincent Hardwicke Bay ADELAIDE Warooka Yorketown Edithburgh Warrawong Mt Barker Innes Earth Sanctuary National Park McLaren Murray Vale Bridge Cape Strathalbyn Fleurieu Spencer Peninsula Normanville Strait Yankalilla Investigator Bay Goolwa Cape Victor Kingscote Jervis Harbor Yo Cape Deep Creek un Borda American Conservation Pe ghu River Penneshaw Park ni sb Meningie KANGAROO ns a ul nd ISLAND a Flinders Chase National Park Coorong Rocky Cape Gantheaume National River Vivonne Conservation Park Park Bay Cape du Seal Couedic Bay SOUTHERN OCEAN 0 50 km 0 30 miles .

through this lush cosmopolitan city. which houses the ADELAIDE world’s largest exhibition of Australian Ditch the City of Churches stereotypes. shopping. The River Torrens curves dining culture. Rundle Mall and because Adelaide has a lot more to Rundle Street offer great dining and offer than stained glass and gargoyles.com. For you can discover an older history at wildlife fans. the hop away.tandanya. but companied by the Barossa’s best tipples. Aboriginal culture. Kangaroo Island is only a short Tandanya (www.au).artgallery.samuseum.gov. South Australian Museum (www .sa. which happily can be ac.sa.au). ADELAIDE & AROUND Cultured Adelaide has a packed festival become Australia’s pre-eminent arts calendar and Australia’s best-value fine.gov. destination. while further north the beautiful indigenous cultural institute.au) hosts Adelaide South Australia . while the Art Gallery of SA and over the past couple of decades has (www. or at the Flinders Ranges are an unmissable side trip.

au (www. for some ideas.adelaidecitycouncil. while more than 240 species of Adelaide’s eating. tour of Haighs Chocolates (www Head to Flinders Chase National Park. which are easily spotted at . particularly you’ll see sea lions lounging on the kangaroos. Take a free factory birds fill every environmental niche. trawl the ranger-guided walks to mutli-day markets with Adelaide’s bargain.com. koalas. possums authentic Australian bush experience. And at Seal Bay for Australian animals. and heaps of kangaroos throughout Its isolation has provided a haven the mallee bush.com. . From Penneshaw Penguin Centre.topfoodandwinetours.com/central Organised tours range from simple market).com. echidnas.com. classic Aussie art. yourself to see some of Australia’s ried the city’s original free settlers. bandicoots and sand. which car. GETTING WILD plus you can immerse yourself with Isolation from the mainland has Temptation Sailing (www. wallabies.au) or pack a picnic which has a new visitors centre with from the Central Market (www the good word on flora and fauna. town. so prepare the replica of HMS Buffalo. Glenelg has swim- ming beaches 20 minutes from the city. will let you see Tammar You don’t need to blow your budget wallabies. or BUDGET BITES a guided tour. best wildlife. protected beaches Park there’s even more wildlife spot- and secluded scrub that offers an ting. hunting Top Food & Wine Tours see www. (SIDE TRIP) trips to spy on the cute penguins Adelaide’s scenic escape.haighs. with koalas. dawn and dusk. platypus and echid- at fancy restaurants to savour nas. Kangaroo waddling along the shore near Island is overflowing with tower. possums. packaged tours from the mainlaind.tourkangarooisland.au) dolphin swims or explore ease and feral predators.dolphin protected Kangaroo Island from dis- boat. To get the good oil. rangers take nightly KANGAROO ISLAND. In Flinders Chase National ing coastlines.au). A little more effort. .

Feast (Nov) is one of Australia’s best-known lesbian and gay cultural festivals. December rounds off the year with the Bay Sports Festival. The international cycling action of the Jacob’s Creek Tour Down Under (Jan) kicks the year off. an aquathon and a surf carnival. Kangaroo Barossa Valley Island South Australia . while Tasting Australia (Oct). April’s Oakbank Easter Racing Carnival (in the Adelaide Hills) is big for picnicking and partying. as well as the world’s best musicians congregating every year for WOMADelaide. offering the best of food. Every two years in March there’s the high-brow Adelaide Festival of Arts and the quirky Adelaide Fringe Festival. wine. Authentic Australia 17 ADELAIDE FESTIVALS Adelaide is Australia’s festival capital. has to be the country’s most delectable. held seaside at Glenelg with beach volleyball. with its gathering of gourmets and chefs. while July’s Adelaide Festival of Ideas draws together thinkers from weapons inspectors to Franciscan friars. sport and culture throughout the year.

can pitch a tent or stay in the lap of FLINDERS RANGES (SIDE TRIP) luxury. you can check out quaint villages such as Melrose or Quorn. motorbike you enter Flinders Ranges National or horseback – plus self-drive routes.com) showcases Australia’s biggest wine exporter. bushwalking and gourmet meals. Stop in at the Prai- Australia’s best-known wine district rie Hotel for some famous ‘feral food’ crushes around 65. There’s great bushwalking or of options. . check out some sausages and emu-egg frittata) or take WINERY WONDERLAND With over 50 cellar doors in the Barossa there’s heaps of places to sample the valley’s finest. Jacob’s Creek Visitor Centre (www. with its scenic BAROSSA Pichi Richi Railway. is a haven for native www. You (www.au) has pointers on the valley’s best bottles at spots like Annie’s Lane and Sevenhill Cellars. where a massive natural basin. A perfect way to enjoy the wineries is with a leisurely picnic at wineries such as riverside Peter Lehmann Wines.clarevalley. camel grapes annually. or Bethany Wines with gentle hillside views.groovygrape. Yalumba. Park.au). The Clare Valley visitors centre (www . and most places offer tours of Ochre hills become majestic peaks as their properties – by plane. Still thirsty? You can hit the Clare Valley’s small family and boutique wineries. otherwise take a tour sample life on the land in this harsh with Groovy Grape Getaways and unforgiving environment. See Wilpena Pound.flindersoutback. the Barossa is a whole lot of fun and a great way to an easy drive. while boutique operators Rockford Wines produce a flavour- some Shiraz. which are all within driving distance from Adelaide. of the best known labels.com. A TASTE OF OUTBACK LIFE Wolf Blass and Penfolds.000 tonnes of (including wallaby stir-fries.com.jacobscreek.com for a list wildlife. Just 55km Staying at an outback station is both northeast of Adelaide.

You can hear more traditional lore at the indigenous cultural centre of Iga Warta (www. The whole area is a popular at the travails of Aboriginal children location for Australian bush films.igawarta. Flinders BarossaRanges Valley South Australia . ADNYAMATHANHA CULTURE Land is integral to the culture of the local Adnyamathanha (Hill People) indigenous groups. such forcibly separated from their families. Their stories seek to explain the freakish land formations of the area. Wilpena Pound. which also offers fascinating tours. a poignant look Pound. The rich red colours of the landscape are believed to be the blood of dogs who once roamed the area.com). for example. Authentic Australia 19 a joy flight and marvel over Wilpena as Rabbit Proof Fence. is said to be two giant snakes who could not move after feasting on too many humans.

FLINDERS RANGES 0 30 km 0 20 miles Parachilna Parachilna Gorge Lake Torrens Flinders Ranges National Park Wilpena Wilpena Pound ES NG To Coober Pedy RA Hawker RS DE IN FL Cradock St ua rt Hw y Belton The Dutchmans Stern CP Quorn Carrieton Johnburgh Port Augusta Wilmington Willowie Orroroo Melrose To Adelaide To Adelaide Whyalla .

while pubs and restaurants across all states are always looking for casual staff. where workers are recruited for the South Australian orchards. Around harvest time (March to April) in South Australia there are jobs in the wine industry picking and crushing grapes – contact the wineries direct. nurses and casual teaching staff – agencies such as Employment Plus (www. and you are under 30 years of age with a Working Holiday visa. Authentic Australia 21 WORKING HOLIDAYS If you need to earn a few extra Aussie dollars to fund your trip. For those with professional qualifications. And if you just want to work for bed and board with some like-minded altruists.australiasoutback.com. For regional fruit-picking. or the great fruit bowl of Kununurra. coun- try areas are crying out for locums.employmentplus. contact Willing Workers on Organic Farms (www.com. there are seasonal jobs on cattle stations and roadhouses (see www. Barossa Riverland Valley South Australia . For a taste of outback life.au).wwoof. there are plenty of opportunities to put down your rucksack and join the workforce for a while. in Western Australia (April to November).com). up north for the mango season in Darwin (May to October). head to Berri (SA).au) can help you find a match for your skills.

RED CENTRE Alice Springs Mt Isabel ATNETYE ABORIGINAL LAND West MacDonnell National Park Areyonga Santa Teresa y Watarrka Finke Hw Kings National Canyon Illpurla Gorge Stuarts Well Park National Park 6 Mt Rodinga rt Stua NT Kata Tjuta (The Olgas) Chambers Pillar Yulara Erldunda Mt Hakea SIMPSON Uluru. Mt Kingston DESERT Uluru (Ayers Kata Tjuta Mt Connor Finke Rock) National (Artula) Mt Peebles Park Mt Reynolds Kulgera Mt Etingimbra Ernabella Amata (Pukatja) e ng Witjira Ra National ot Park g Ba Fregon Simpson Desert Indulkana Regional Mt Alberga Reserve Mimili Marla Mintabie PITJANTJATJARA ABORIGINAL LAND Oodnadatta Stu art Cadney Homestead Mt Waddikee Roadhouse Hwy Lake Giles Memorial Eyre North Mt Euee Conservation Tallaringa Lake Eyre Park CP National Park William WOOMERA Creek PROHIBITED AREA Coober Pedy (Stuart Hwy unrestricted) Do Lake MARALINGA g Eyre TJARUTJA South ABORIGINAL Fe nc LAND e Oo SA lde a Maralinga Ra ng (Restricted Area) e Olympic Dam Andamooka Tarcoola Roxby Downs Lake Kingoonya Glendambo Torrens Yellabinna RR Mt Finke Woomera National Nullarbor Park Lake Roadhouse Lake Pimba Torrens & Hotel Everard Yalata Roadhouse Lake Nundroo Lake Gairdner Head Roadhouse Gairdner of Bight & Hotel Pureba CP National Penong Park Fowlers Great Bay Ceduna Mt Hiltaba Australian Quorn Bight Smoky Bay Wirrula Haslam Port Augusta 0 100 km 0 60 miles .

spiritual and physical heart. Features erupt The lure of precious stones has attract- from the landscape and waterholes harbour ed people to work excavations such in valleys. You’ll be in against an endless blue sky. Stunning scenery prompts dramatic as Tom’s Working Opal Mine. a stark yet colourful area of arid hills and scarps that includes the white-and- COOBER PEDY yellow mesa called the Castle. this township is of a pilgrimage as you travel into Australia’s definitely the Opal capital of the world. living in colour changes. ghostly tree trunks and bursts of greenery. Coober Pedy South Australia . from the subtle hues captured underground houses and worshipping by artist Albert Namatjira to rich earth tones in subterranean churches. Further With over a million mines studded out is the Dog Fence and the table-like around Coober Pedy all searching for Moon Plain on the road to Oodnadatta. punctuated with awe of the nearby Breakaways Reserve. RED CENTRE A journey to the outback takes on the aura the ‘fire in the stone’.

but this stuff is seriously remote and requires expensive vehicles. peering into the world in films such as Mad Max caves and soaking up the tranquillity III and Stark. Tjuta Cultural Centre for an insight into a film about the unique characters of Uluru’s spiritual significance to its tradi. Join Aboriginal-guided reckoned it was another planet. and specialist gear to get through safely. It’s well travelled. a tour may be the best option. using Anangu Tours (www. a decent conventional car should suffice or alternatively hitch a ride with the mailman on his route from Coober Pedy to some of the most remote towns in Australia (check the road conditions before you head off). If you’re feeling more adventurous. Slip into More recently the town had an auto- the curved and inspiring Uluru–Kata biographical role in Pobby & Dingan. Coober Pedy.anangutours it in otherworldly movies such as Red . OUTBACK TRACKS To get a real taste of Australia’s outback heart. check out one of the remote tracks that criss-cross the central deserts.au) for shorter walks enriched Planet and Pitch Black (which left with stories of the Dreaming and some behind the main street’s spacecraft). there are heaps of other tracks to explore that will take you deep into the magnificent outback country. But the pack your picnic supplies in Yulara and spectacular country surrounding circumnavigate Uluru’s base. After spotting the wrecked spacecraft cake-flat plains. The 615km Oodnadatta Track is a great option. ing hostels with Martians. tional owners. ULURU & KATA TJUTA MAKING MOVIES Towering above the surrounding pan. loads of food and water. majestic Uluru (Ayers in Coober Pedy’s main street. of the region’s bush tucker. pausing Coober Pedy has served as the end of at tranquil waterholes. To fully appreciate its size. has a few towns where you can get supplies and makes a good alternative route if you’re heading north from the Flinders Ranges towards Alice Springs. and check out artworks . Other location scouts along the way.com. you Rock) reveals a different aspect from might believe that you’ll be shar- every angle.

voyages.com. ride a camel over the dunes at captivating Kata Tjuta (the Olgas). Uluru-Kata Tjuta National BarossaPark Valley Northern South Australia Territory . enlivened with Anangu Whatever you do. Take to the soundtrack of the didgeridoo along champagne for a toast to nature.com turns from ochre-brown to burnished . in a swag to secluded five-star cabins. don’t miss a sunset and Greek astrological legends at the (or a sunrise!). Authentic Australia 25 from the Pitjantjatjara lands at the cen. from camping under the stars stargazing ensue. A sumptuous Tours and accommodation suit all candlelit dinner in the desert and tastes. The sunrise or enjoy the lack of city lights track winds through gorges offering at the day’s finale and explore the inky surreal views of its domes. Take another day to walk You can fly around Uluru for bird’s-eye the Valley of the Winds at the equally views. and sparkling wine.au). southern sky. while Kata Tjuta .ecotours. unique Sounds of Silence (www ing with the night sky.au) sets an Uluru sunset is a marvel at its blood-red best. the orange and intense red before blend. tre’s gallery. The enigmatic monolith Night Sky Show (www. If you’re ripe for a splurge.

through semi-desert land to Her- you can detour to Watarrka (Kings mannsburg. one of central of acclaimed Aboriginal artist Albert Australia’s most spectacular sights. After touring the Amphitheatre views of the towering historic Hermannsburg Christian Mis- 100m-high canyon rim may make sion. best known as the home Canyon) National Park. replenish yourself with an apple you want to sing an aria reminiscent strudel and check out the distinctive of a scene from Priscilla. eroded lenging walks in nearby Finke Gorge sandstone domes. 0 50 km Kata Tjuta 0 30 miles National Park Uluru (Ayers Rock) Mt Kingston . look sheer cliffs. National Park. the Mereenie Loop cuts Between Uluru and Alice Springs. artists and Hermannsburg Potters. while rewarding walks over. passing prehistoric Take a tour to check out remnants of cycads in the tranquil Garden of ancient palms in Palm Valley and chal- Eden and a maze of bizarre. Queen of the works of the community’s talented Desert. THE MEREENIE LOOP (SIDE TRIP) From here. Namatjira (1902–59). THE MEREENIE LOOP Ta na m i Trephina West MacDonnell Gorge National Park Rd Red Bank MacDon Gorge Mt Sonder nell Telegraph Ranges Ormiston Gorge Standley Station Ocre Pits Ellery Creek Chasm Glen Alice Springs Permit required Big Hole for access along Helen Mereenie Loop Rd y Hw Illpurla Hermannsburg Santa Teresa Areyonga art Watarrka Finke Gorge Stu National Park National Park Kings Rainbow Valley Canyon Conservation Stuarts Well Reserve PETERMANN ABORIGINAL Henbury Meteorite LAND TRUST Craters Historic Reserve Mt Rodinga Alice Well Lake Amadeus Mt Hakea Erldunda Yulara Uluru.

West MacDonnell National BarossaPark Valley Northern South Australia Territory . near-vertical walls at Standley Chasm. Watch is also worth a detour off the Stuart the midday sunlight stream between Hwy. Authentic Australia 27 MACDONNELL RANGES The rugged MacDonnell Ranges THE CENTRE & THE stretch like a spine for 400km to the RAINBOW east and west of Alice Springs. or stay at Glen Helen’s friendly Desert. Rainbow Valley Conservation homestead to enjoy the live music Centre. Devote a couple Centre. You can position yourself at the dead bour gorges carved by ancient rivers centre of Australia at the Lambert and rocky waterholes. and hearty country meals. Traverse rugged sandy tracks of days to covering the major sites and 4WD territory to reach it and the of the region. and har. camp out in low-key multi-hued Chambers Pillar. a spectacle of glowing cream and red sandstone cliffs at sunset. between areas to feel and experience the Red the Stuart Hwy and the Simpson Centre.

Simpson Desert Northern Territory .

The 12-stage.au/ipe/pwcnt). and Gorge Nature Park rewards visitors skirting beautiful waterholes from with wild and beautiful scenery. Trephina dry river beds and ridge-tops. Authentic Australia 29 take a refreshing swim in permanent waterholes at Ellery Creek Big Hole LARAPINTA TRAIL or narrow Redbank Gorge. serene Mt Sonder.gov Don’t miss the black-footed rock . In the east. as Alice Springs Telegraph Station to does the garnet-studded dry river. Larapinta BarossaTrail Valley Northern South Australia Territory . traversing late afternoon. 220km wallabies bouncing across the rocks track spans the backbone of the of rugged Ormiston Gorge in the West MacDonnell Ranges.nt. Larapinta Trail (www. bed of remote Ruby Gap. and snap Hikers looking for a challenge a photo of the coloured walls of the can soak up some wild scenery and Ochre Pits – still used as a source of isolation on a section of the paints by local Aboriginal people.

THE TRACK Angurugu Nitmiluk Mt Furner Numbulwar (Katherine Gorge) National Park GROOTE 0 100 km Katherine Beswick Roper EYLANDT 0 60 mi Bar Cutta Cutta Caves Elsey Ngukurr National Park Port Roper Maria Is GULF Mataranka y OF Hw Gregory Elsey CARPENTARIA ia HODGSON DOWNS Stua National tor Park ABORIGINAL LAND MARRA SIR EDWARD Vic rt H Alice Springs to ABORIGINAL PELLEW GROUP Larrimah ALAWA LAND TRUST y w ABORIGINAL Vanderlin Is LAND TRUST Victoria Borroloola Daly Waters Mt Brown Darw Top Springs GARAWA Ri Dunmarra Cape Crawford in ve ABORIGINAL r LAND TRUST Railway BARKLY TABLELAND Hell’s Gate Tablelands Newcastle Waters Roadhouse Elliott NT Mt Seale WAANYI / Doomadgee Mt Reid Lake GARAWA Woods ABORIGINAL Renner Springs Mt Steiglitz Hw LAND Tarrabool y Mt Hawker Lake Mt Morgan Mirrinyungu KARLANTIJPA NORTH ABORIGINAL LAND TRUST Lawn Hill CENTRAL Lake National Park DESERT Sylvester ABORIGINAL Threeways Mt Lamb LAND TRUST Tennant Creek Ba rkl y TANAMI DESERT MUNGKARTA Hwy Camooweal ABORIGINAL Wunura Store LAND TRUST Camooweal KARLANTIJPA SOUTH WAKAYA ABORIGINAL Caves Devils Marbles National Park ABORIGINAL Conservation Reserve LAND TRUST LAND TRUST Wauchope Mt Solitaire Davenport Range QLD Wycliffe Well National Park Mt Rawlins Ali-Curung Alpurrurulam WIRLYAJARRAYI ABORIGINAL y Mt Alone Hw Mt Theo LAND Barrow Creek y Hw Sandover Urandangi rt ua Mt Leichhardt Mt Hogarth St Mt Dixon Ti Tree Arlparra Store Urapuntja Yuendumu Utopia Ta nam i Mt Sainthill Aileron Mt Guide Tilmouth Well Roadhouse Rd Hwy Mt Wooldridge Plenty s Range Mt Liebig Papunya onnell Tropic of Capricorn MacD Mt Gerald Ikuntki Trephina Gorge Mt Putardi (Haasts Bluff) ATNETYE PETERMANN West MacDonnell Alice Springs Mt Isabel ABORIGINAL LAND ABORIGINAL National Park LAND TRUST Areyonga Santa Teresa Finke Gorge Simpson Watarrka Kings National Park Desert National Park Canyon Illpurla Stuarts Well NP .

You gain a different Regatta (September/October).assoa. the sight of wedge-tailed the bar. or tour the base facilities not quite concealing the out. accompanied by River.au) as it is delivered to kids on remote Springs. of the Royal Flying Doctor Service Alice Springs Northern Territory . Just Alice hold the key to some of the region’s most check out the annual Henley-on-Todd celebrated Aboriginal art. partly told roadhouses. with modern outback stations. where perspective on ‘the Explorer’s Way’. is a classic place. Sit in on a lesson at the ALICE SPRINGS School of the Air (www. a trip ‘boat crews’ dash up the dry Todd up the sealed Stuart Hwy. THE TRACK The rich red landscape and open skies north of back larrikinism it was built on. or wander into one of the many thundering road trains.edu Central Australia’s major centre. Alice . The Alice’s pioneer history eagles. the odd mad-keen (or pubs for a long night of propping up just plain mad) cyclist. through the colourful murals that fla- vour the town. and laconic outback wit in atmospheric is everywhere to be seen.nt.

au/dam) houses the Namatjira Gallery and hosts local and travelling exhibitions. you’ll meet the bilby (Australia’s adapta. the Araluen Centre for Arts & Entertainment (www. And make sure you duck Take a break at the Devils Marbles – your head at the birds-of-prey display.au) at with business cards.htm). ‘Earthlings are welcome at Wycliffe tion of the Easter Bunny). They ARTS OF CENTRAL AUSTRALIA The vivid central Australian landscape has inspired generations of indigenous artists. strange clusters of spherical rocks where huge. who depict the colours and textures of the desert in oils. For something less high-brow. a holi- tiny marsupial mice and a myriad of oth. Further north. Along The undoubted highlight is the chance to Track. day park that offers a surreal outback er species that have adapted amazingly experience of the alien kind in the to their harsh and unique habitats – so ‘UFO capital of Australia’. dle both sides of the highway. in fact. roughly following the ancient medical gear on display the Telegraph Line’s 3600km route here has been superseded! The town’s from Adelaide to Darwin. And thank your lucky stars that north from Alice. swooping wedge-tailed stacked in precarious piles that strad- eagles display their skills. environment.com. maintained stretch of road. Here other paraphernalia.au). THE HIGHWAY NORTH which routinely operates over-the-air The Stuart Highway.flyingdoctor. Try to get well. Galleries in town sell art- ists’ works from renowned regions such as Papunya Tula. In Alice Springs. don your favourite head gear and strut your stuff at the Alice Springs Beanie Festival (July). Well’ (www.com.(www.gov. where the wall is adorned (www.net/central/alice. check out quirky outback pub- catch up with rare desert critters at the cum-roadhouses like Barrow Creek inimitable Alice Springs Desert Park Hotel. that you’re unlikely to ever through their huge range of interna- see these secretive creatures in their own tional beers.wycliffe. Utopia and Hermannsburg.nt. where wearable art gets cult status. thorny devils. watercolours and dots. heads ties. .alicespringsdesertpark. banknotes and the foot of the MacDonnell Ranges. a sealed and well medical clinics to isolated communi.

‘It’s the most simple instrument in the take a trip back in time at Battery Hill. world – just a branch of a tree minus an underground mine and remnant of termites.nyinkkanyunyu. Ann Dam for a cooling dip. North of Tennant Creek. tra- trails cross this sacred site.’ William Barton. tinuing along the Stuart Hwy. Con- Rainbow Serpent. one of Aus. punc.au) in town. a slight Devils Marbles near Tennant Barossa Creek Valley Northern South Australia Territory . tuated by clumps of golden spinifex. the gold rush era.com. Authentic Australia 33 TENNANT CREEK & BEYOND QUOTABLE QUOTES In perennially sunny Tennant Creek. then head to Mary tralia’s finest didgeridoo players. Acquaint yourself with Warumungu culture and the art of the Barkly region at Nyinkka are particularly beautiful at sunrise Nyunyu Art and Culture Centre and sunset when the boulders. (www. Several Dreaming Hwy splits off the Stuart Hwy. the Barkly exude a rich glow. which is versing the Barkly Tableland to the believed to be the eggs laid by the Queensland border and Mt Isa.

Manyal- loose after weeks on the track. Closer the pandanus-lined natural thermal to Katherine. where pocket of rainforest.html. falls and themal pools • Glimpsing the rare and the nocturnal at the Alice Springs Desert Park • Admiring awesome crocodiles at Shady Camp • Learning about Aboriginal culture • Taking a cruise at sunset in Darwin . where beer-thirsty drovers would cut On the edge of Arnhem Land. TOP 10 NORTHERN TERRITORY Want to get straight to the best Northern Territory has to offer? Here’s our top 10 picks: • Soaking up an Uluru sunset • Perusing Kakadu’s wetlands and rock art • Canoeing along Nitmiluk (Katherine Gorge) • Having a beer and a yarn in an outback pub • Feasting at Darwin’s markets • Bathing in waterholes. playing. Apr-Nov) is an au- to the north. includes spear throwing. Rather more touroperators.au/blackpages/nt lively is eccentric Daly Waters Pub. didgeridoo If you need to rejuvenate travel-wea. It’s now laluk’s Dreaming Place (aboriginal practically a ghost town. just /manyallaluk. We of the Never Never. tropical Cutta Cutta Caves (best time clear Bitter Springs in a natural to visit is May to November). sampling bush tucker and in- ry limbs.com. Early station life endangered ghost bats and orange can be explored at the Elsey Station horseshoe bats roost amid stalactites. there’s no finer place than formation about bush medicine. The tour the Northern Territory’s oldest pub. constructed for the film droving town of Newcastle Waters. which has been dubbed thentic Aboriginal experience.detour leads to the fascinating former Homestead. you can explore the pools at Mataranka or the crystal.

Darwin Northern Territory .

THE TOP END Cobourg ARAFURA SEA 0 100 km Peninsula Croker 0 TIWI ISLANDS Melville Island Island Marchinbar Is 60 mi Pularumpi Milikapiti Garig Gunak WESSEL NP Braithwaite ISLANDS Point Guluwuru Is Bathurst Pickertaramoor Island Van Diemen Maningrida Galiwinku TIMOR Beagle Gulf Gulf Nhulunbuy SEA DARWIN Palmerston Ubirr Gunbalanya Ramingining Dhupuma Shady Camp (Oenpelli) Arnhem Gapuwiyak Noonamah Mary River Jabiru Land Gove Garrthalala Berry Springs NP Nourlangie Batchelor Bark Hut Inn Mt Gilruth Peninsula Cape Grey Adelaide River ARNHEM LAND Litchfield Kakadu ALT Cape Scott NP NP Bulman DALY RIVER / Mt Marumba Alyangula Joseph PORT KEATS Pine Creek ALT Daly Butterfly Nitmiluk Angurugu Bonaparte Peppimenarti River Gorge (Katherine Gorge) Gulf Mt Furner Palumpa NP NP Numbulwar GROOTE GULF Wadeye Katherine Beswick Roper Ngukurr EYLANDT OF (Port Keats) Bar Port Roper Stu Mataranka CARPENTARIA art Maria Is y Hw Ali Gregory Elsey HODGSON DOWNS MARRA ce ALT SIR EDWARD Timber NP NP ALT Springs to Darwin WA PELLEW GROUP ria Keep River Creek NT cto Larrimah ALAWA Vanderlin Is Kununurra NP Vi ALT Hw Victoria R Borroloola y Daly Waters Lake GARAWA Gregory Top Springs Mt Brown ALT Argyle NP Dunmarra Railw Cape Crawford WAGURUNGURU ive ALT ay BARKLY TABLELAND r QLD Kakadu National Park Northern Territory .

Unspoilt wilderness a packed lunch. To some the Top End ia’s first colour film. was partly retains a frontier feel. Picture in Katherine. the towering rock walls carved out by turous to enter a different world. Jedda. Back (Katherine Gorge) National Park. THE TOP END The monsoonal Top End beckons the adven. lily-fringed billabongs and to view rock art and see where Austral- abundant wildlife. stops long enough in Katherine for passengers to take a cruise. bubbling else do the work and take a boat cruise thermal pools. Gain a view KATHERINE from above on an excellent walking Make a beeline for big-draw Nitmiluk trail that climbs the escarpment. You can let someone areas support cascading waterfalls. Even the Ghan train Darwin’s easy-going charm. while others revel in filmed in 1955. soak in the thermal pool yourself paddling a canoe between or sit in on a School of the Air lesson. marked by the Katherine River and then dragging the Wet and Dry seasons and infused with your canoe onto the sand to tuck into Aboriginal spirituality. Katherine Gorge Northern Territory .

open-air miluk National Park. While keeping one eye on the Deckchair Cinema (www. dry and . at one of the city’s colourful. chaircinema.au).com Darwin. When winter grips ern states.aquascene.com). a Tracy’s destruction (see the boxed sheer-sided pool and the Park’s best text Cyclone Tracy). Loop around the rock. impressive Museum & Art Gallery of the Northern Territory. on the edge of Nit. Weave through land that is dotted Take a surreal wander into the oil-stor- with curious anthills. Combined with Cyclone Park. it’s warm. Darwin makes the most of southern Australia.au). overflowing with age tunnels built in WWII. ine on the wharf.deck nearby Asia and another on the south. when Darwin waterfalls and dotted with crystal-clear copped twice as many bombs as plunge pools in Litchfield National Pearl Harbor. of encrusted remnant wrecks now en- pools at Tolmer Falls for stunning views tertains divers. including the picturesque water hole or waterfall. Soak up Darwin’s vibrant tropical night- multicultural flavour that attracts an life and catch a film under the stars at eclectic mix. while landlubbers can of tombstone-like pillars and outcrops explore a living reef at Indo Pacific Mar- descending into dense forest.com. one-way Jatbula Trail treasures to croc-leather products. Australia’s northernmost city .territorywildlifepark. Join the feasting en masse Leliyn (Edith) Falls. The five-day hike markets. and culture vultures won’t miss out on with each camp site positioned beside a a pedal around its sights. Darwin was made for cycling mounts the Arnhem Land escarpment. the food and fine shopping – from market inspiring 66km. DARWIN Explore the unique Territory Wildlife Named after evolutionist Charles Park (www. with JATBULA TRAIL great restaurants. flipping-fresh sea- Described as ‘awesome’ by hikers. or handfeed fish at Aquascene (www. which houses carvings and bark paintings from the LITCHFIELD NATIONAL PARK Tiwi Islands and Arnhem Land. these influences and ingredients. with its walk-through aquarium. Take the creek walk through monsoon forest to Florence Falls. continues its evolution with a casual. the wonderland swimming hole. leads from Katherine Gorge to the local pearls and authentic Top End arts pandanus-lined Sweetwater Pool at and crafts.

and Top End. Art Gallery. Bathurst and ing around 90% of the city’s houses Melville Islands retain their own distinct and irreparably changing life in the culture. remaining original Burnett Houses shops. early Catholic mission buildings at Myilly Point and head for the and carved pukumani (burial poles). Authentic Australia 39 happening in Darwin. Grand Final (March) is a huge event. In the warmer months (October to March) brilliant CYCLONE TRACY thunderstorms bring intense lightning. Check out Darwin’s few two-day tours to explore craft work. darkened room at the NT Museum & adorned with symbolic and mytho. Cyclone Tracy hit Darwin on 25 De- cember 1974 ‘like a steam train from TIWI ISLANDS (SIDE TRIP) the sky’ at around 280km/h. destroy- Known as the Tiwi Islands. Tiwi Islander passion for of the screeching cyclone simulates Aussie rules football ensures the Tiwi the event. Tiwi Islands Northern Territory . Fly out of Darwin for one. where a chilling recording logical figures.

From Wet to a legendary barramundi. tick every second bird off your list. which works. Shady Camp is particularly well dispersing and congregating wildlife.MARY RIVER NATIONAL PARK Heritage–listed wonderland of Many are drawn by the lure of hooking Kakadu National Park. (Oenpelli) is another impressive site. stunning didgeridoos. inspiring crocodiles feature on both. Nourlangie Rock have some of the Take a tour to Gunbalanya (Oenpelli) finest rock art galleries in the world and in Arnhem Land. liant green wetlands and spectacular mals and fish. Dreaming figures and escarpments. waterfall-edge views await those who hike to the top. Pay heed to the warning labongs and vivid green floodplains.000 years. There are also towering cataracts at the art centre here (www. Injalak Hill in Gunbalanya lily-carpeted Anbangbang billabong. and don’t miss a walk even an intriguing Tasmanian tiger. X-ray–style ani. signs. then sit If you’re looking for rock art. Across the East Alligator River into Arn. with enchanting views and the nearby hem Land. through Nourlangie’s rock-art galleries. or mid-river from a mirror reflections on the water and to hired dinghy. stocked with these fearsome reptiles. when the sun .aboriginalart Twin Falls and Jim Jim Falls. or take an Aboriginal-guided Guluyambi KAKADU NATIONAL PARK cruise on the East Alligator River. Finally. with over 5000 sites the late afternoon sun casting a magic dating back 50. Kakadu back at rocky Nardab Lookout to enjoy is the place to go. Impressive ART IN KAKADU rock art can be seen at Ubirr. and a clear . plete without a visit to the World Absorb the spirituality of the area’s liv- ing Aboriginal culture at the Warradjan Aboriginal Cultural Centre. awe- No trip to Australia would be com. including bark paintings and starred in Crocodile Dundee). Jump on a crack-of-dawn Yellow which you can view from a waterbird Water wetlands cruise for perfect or crocodile hide.org) is an good place to buy authentic pool at Gunlom (Waterfall Creek. others by the Dry it offers enchanting proof of life’s promise of meeting a crocodile on its circularity – filling and emptying bil- very own turf. which passes bril- feature hand stencils. Ubirr and golden glow over expansive wetlands.

tracks and abundant wildlife. traversing rock art and wetland waterbirds to the tropical and semi-arid transi- long scrambles up rocky outcrops and tional zone and threading between all-day hikes. superlative views and the odd undis. walks in Kakadu end in sandstone scarps and soaring cliffs. Cruises from Timber Creek show- turbed clear pool. seriously snappy. catch a fireball sunset before sleeping rock-art sites. excellent walking out under a blanket of stars. Hard yards reward case majestic Victoria River and its with space to contemplate and feel creatures – both the friendly and the the place without distraction. boil a billy and with stunning sandstone formations. a boutique-sized park goes down. Sidling up to the border is Boab-studded Keep River National Park. Authentic Australia 41 VICTORIA HIGHWAY TAKE A HIKE The Victoria Hwy stretches from From short boardwalk stints to view Katherine to Kununurra. make camp. Kununurra Western Australia .

THE KIMBERLEY O Joseph Peppimenarti TIMOR AG Bonaparte SEA P EL Wadeye HI Kalumburu Gulf (Port Keats) Palumpa A RC Mitchell Falls OOMBULGURRI E ADMIRALTY GULF ABORIGINAL RT ABORIGINAL LAND Drysdale LAND PA 0 100 km River NA Or 0 60 miles Prince National BO d Park Rive Mirima Regent Wyndham r INDIAN Nature Kununurra NP OCEAN Kuri Bay Reserve Keep River NP R Emma EE O Gregory NP AN LAG Gorge CK PE Lake BU CHI DOON DOON ge ABORIGINAL Argyle AR Rd WAGURUNGURU an LAND ABORIGINAL LAND R ot Cape Leveque nn r Isd RiveMT BARNETT Sy Lombadina MILITARY Or ell Rive ABORIGINAL Pender Bay TRAINING AREA Turkey Creek d King r LAND River Sound (Warmun) bb WA NT Beagle Bay Gi Purnululu Dampier Derby (Bungle Bungle) Point Peninsula Windjana Gorge NP E S NP Coulomb Mowanjum KING LEOPOLD RANG Hwy Nature Tunnel Creek NP Reserve Mt Coghlan Mt Archie Cable Beach Willare Looma Geike Gorge NP Broome Roebuck Bridge Fitzroy Crossing Halls Creek Roadhouse Roadhouse NOONKANBAH Rosebuck rn Mt West Wall ABORIGINAL LAND rthe Ga Bay No y rd Hw St G Great ner eorg n Barbrongan Tower Ra er e R ng rth (225m) ang e e No Edga s Wolfe Creek r Ra Crater NP at nges Gre Kununurra Western Australia .

modern town that makes an thriving indigenous arts scene. plus some excellent KUNUNURRA walking trails that take you high up The gateway to the wonders of the escarpments for great views over east Kimberley region. beaches Parks. Purnululu National Park Western Australia . wilder storms. and Purnululu and (just and extraordinary landforms. ancient cultures Kimberley. And when over the border) Keep River National you’re adventured out. area of steep gorges. the pubs. Kununurra is town. and excellent base for journeys into the has four galleries to browse through. On the outskirts of town is and restaurants of Broome await for some Mirima National Park. spinifex plains and Boab trees. a wonderful serious R&R. crashing waterfalls to a remote and beautiful wilderness of and bizarre rock formations of the wild rivers. Kununurra is also known for its a small. THE KIMBERLEY Western Australia’s tropical north is home stunning gorges.

otherworldly landscape of curvy. Amazingly. and attract visitors from all over the Geikie gorges and Tunnel Creek are globe. these the east. you’ll find these holes and excellent camping areas. ‘discovered’ in the 1980s and Closer to Broome. striped domes of rock that seem to GORGE COUNTRY ripple across the countryside in the The Kimberley is rightly famous for its World Heritage–listed Purnululu rugged and picturesque gorges. To National Park. the Windjana. From sloshing the vista is something to behold through Tunnel Creek to a gentle and there’s some beautiful water.PURNULULU NATIONAL PARK stay the night and be mesmerised The Bungle Bungle Range is an by the stars. but the western Kimberley. You’ll exercise your legs almost obligatory stops on tours of getting to the best formations. Emma Gorge at El Questro Wilderness Park has a permanent unique formations were only waterfall and sensational swimming. remnants of a 350-million-year-old TOP 10 WESTERN AUSTRALIA Want to get straight to the best that Western Australia has to offer? Here’s our top 10 picks: • Swimming with Ningaloo Reef’s whale sharks • Kayaking the Bay of Isles at Esperance • Wildlife spotting at Shark Bay • Gawping at Mitchell Falls in the Kimberley • Exploring the Windjana and Geikie gorges and Tunnel Creek • Plunging into pools in Karijini National Park • Taking a camel ride on Broome’s Cable Beach • Day-tripping to Rottnest Island • Dining the night away at Margaret River • Sandboarding the dunes at Lancelin . cruise along Geikie.

Hop on a cruise boat falls. to see the plentiful wildlife or drop deserted beaches and untouched a line into the water and catch a fish for your supper. This extraordinary region is provide a peaceful way to end the visited by few Australians. and is an adven- ture not to be missed. THE MIGHTY ORD The damming of the Ord River in GIBB RIVER ROAD (SIDE TRIP) 1972 created Lake Argyle. endless tracts of wilderness. towering water of Kununurra. Authentic Australia 45 reef system provide a spectacular counterpoint to the harsh surround- ing countryside. Inaccessible Gibb River Road Western Australia . let alone day over a cold tinnie. a gigantic This 664km 4WD track takes you into inland freshwater ‘sea’ that’s dotted the heart of the remote Kimberley. Sunset cruises islands. international visitors. with islands and within easy reach with its rushing rivers.

you can still get a sense of its outrageous beauty through a fly-over from Derby or BROOME BIRD Kununurra. birds break their journey in the mud- Broome was founded as a pearling flats south of Broome every year. .birdsaustralia Broome also boasts the best restau. A safe way to fishing charters in the remote north- get close to these prehistoric reptiles ern islands to Gibb River Road treks is the crocodile farm. but it’s grown tweed jacket to appreciate the spec- into an attractive little town that’s tacle of so many birds (representing boomed along with traveller interest more than 100 species) crowding in the Kimberley.000 migratory Perched on WA’s far north coast.com. Head there at DAMPIER PENINSULA (SIDE TRIP) feeding time for some great photo North of Broome. peninsula makes for a brilliant two or three-day excursion. rants north of Perth.au). It’s best known the shores of Roebuck Bay. Wynd. outpost in the 1880s. dusk (see www. Malcolm Douglas) and a couple of ham is a small town at the junction good little museums. strous crocs at the Broome Crocodile CROCS UP CLOSE Park (owned by eccentric TV celeb Just northwest of Kununurra. OBSERVATORY BROOME A staggering 800. camp or stay in a chalet to catch back or just while away an afternoon the best viewing times at dawn and reading between cooling dips. A sandy 4WD track takes you into an engaging by road during the Wet. everything from cute little hatchlings to fearsome monsters. Tours can be of five large rivers that are alive with arranged across the Kimberley. it still and you don’t need to be a dork in a does the pearl thing. from salt-water crocodiles. some mon- . this beautiful opportunities. Tours are for the beautiful crescent sweep of run from Broome and you can either Cable Beach – traverse it on camel. Today. where you’ll see and gorge explorations.

rugged and slow of the peninsula. Join a offering legendary fishing and crab- tour to get the most from your visit: bing tours. at the end of traditional handcrafts. fishing and mud-crabbing. Kalumburu altar. including the Beagle Bay Aboriginal Community. local community welcomes visitors. At the top a seriously rough. Cape Leveque is 4WD track. The pay-off is that very a magnificent spot with wonderful few travellers get up this way. Authentic Australia 47 mixture of Aboriginal settlements. which is noted for its inland of the Timor Sea. their ancient cultural practices. and the beaches and stunning red cliffs. Cape Leveque Western Australia . set here is truly memorable. where the local church KALUMBURU DREAMING features a stunning mother-of-pearl WA’s northernmost town. as well as insights into options include Aboriginal culture. sun. and Lombadina Aboriginal (a former Christian mission) lies just Community.

Mt Singleton Goongarrie (678m) 116 116 Port Denison Lake Hu 95 Illawong Eneabba Moore nt Wubin Wialki Ra nge Jurien Cervantes Moora Mt Grey 116 Southern s y Nambung NP The Pinnacles Cross Hw 0 200 km rn New Norcia Easte 95 0 120 miles Lancelin Merredin Moore River NP Gingin t Northam Grea Rottnest Narembeen Island PERTH Corrigin Fremantle Armadale 40 30 Kulin Jilakin Rock 120 107 . Mungaroona Chichester NP Range NR 95 Onslow Rudall River North West Auski Roadhouse (Karlamilyi) Cape Wittenoom NP Hwy Ningaloo Reef Exmouth a Tom Price Tallawkan Cape Range NP Trac Nanutarra Roadhouse Karijini Ningaloo Learmonth Barlee Newman Jigalong Marine Paraburdoo NP 136 Capricorn tal Range Range almia opic of Hwy Park o as NR C Hi ULLAWARRA Opth Tr 352 Coral Bay gh t es Ra ABORIGINAL LAND LITTLE Northern W ng Barle Collier SANDY e e Ra rth nge Mt Vermon Range DESERT No Minilya NP Lake Kennedy Kumarina Roadhouse Well 10 Roadhouse MacLeod Range NP 95 Well 9 Great Well 8 Mt Gascoyne yne Well 7 River Well 6 co Gas Gascoyne Well 5 Junction n Range Well 4A Well 4 (salty) Carnarvon Robinsor WA Well 3 (unreliable) ve Shark Coordewandy Ri Well 2A Karalundi Bay Monkey Well 2 on François Péron NP Mia Mt Hale 95 Well 1 Wiluna chis Gladstone Denham Meekatharra Lake Way Mur 353 Overlander Roadhouse Mt Murchison Nannine Billabong Murchison Settlement Roadhouse Toolonga Roadhouse Cue NR Lake Austin Leinster Mt Charles Sandstone Mt Magnet Tabletop Kalbarri Binnu Leonora-Gwalia 123 Kalbarri NP Yalgoo Lake Northampton Mullewa Barlee 95 Eradu 123 95 Geraldton Paynes Find Abrolhos Archipelago Walkaway Menzies Dongara.WESTERN COAST Roebuck Roadhouse Broome Cape Latouche Treville y Port Smith Hw Lagrange Cape Bossut hern ch Be a Nort ile t M ea hty Gr Eig Sandfire Roadhouse Larrey Point Kidson Pardoo Track Port Hedland Roadhouse Cape Cossigny ABORIGINAL INDIAN Montebello Is Dampier LAND Roeburn Lake Waukarlycarly 95 OCEAN Karratha YANDEYARRA Barrow Is ABORIGINAL Marble Bar LAND 138 Fortescue River Roadhouse Nullagine Millstream.

for teeming marine life of Ningaloo and Shark an insight into the rich local history. from the the hot sun. Stop at the excellent Kari- limestone pillars of the Pinnacles and secret jini visitors centre. which along WA’s western coast. Charge up your camera and prepare for then don some stout boots and start experiences found nowhere else in the world. carefree play in the cool waters. When you’re done. exploring the park’s many striking gorges – each different from the KARIJINI NATIONAL PARK (SIDE TRIP) last. run by the area’s waterholes of Karijini National Park to the traditional owners. Tours Weano Gorge Western Australia . Bay. WESTERN COAST Natural splendour is everywhere to be seen holes and lush vegetation. rugged swimming costume and walk deep rocks and sheer ravines of this inland into the crevasses for an afternoon’s national park are gorgeous water. grab your Hidden within the red dust. the Banyjima. with a host provide a delightful respite from of natural wonders to explore.

you gering variety of marine life. this gentle . as well as endless schools of to visit this magical place. Ningaloo Reef is simply beasts. There’s camping aplenty in .exmouthwa. reef fish. Generous mosphere. in very male-dominated communi- SHARK BAY ties.au/tours/karijini+tours. For a great party at- Karijini National Park. Cape Range National Park along the IT’S A MAN’S WORLD northern coast. giant visits the plankton-rich Ninga- loo Reef between April and July each NINGALOO MARINE PARK year. and nothing beats a The small mining towns of Tom Price. Ningaloo is the best place in the The jewel in the crown of the west. with a resident popula- women make the journey.discoverwest. resulting tion of emus. If you way into the surf. world to encounter these amazing ern coast. humpback instead.html).au). Pull up a stool at the local bar The captivating Shark Bay World and get chatting for an insight into Heritage & Marine Park is famed for the isolated but lucrative life of the the dolphins at Monkey Mia. the area’s extracting iron ore. head to the tiny village of pay and conditions draw the men Coral Bay. arrive at other times of the year. north for long shifts underground Further north is Exmouth. and you’d be mad to miss an fabulous and not to be missed. and of course the snorkelling whales. are available from Karratha and Port WHALE SHARKS Hedland (see www. cooling swim over the reef first thing Paraburdoo and Newman flank in the morning. including can swim with languid manta rays mysterious whale sharks.com. but far fewer main town. Excellent tours operate out of can be accessed merely by hopping both Coral Bay and Exmouth (see into the water and swimming a little www. but modern miner. It supports a stag. enormous manta rays and sea and diving alone are reason enough turtles. This opportunity to share the waters with 250km-long inshore coral-reef system them.com The world’s biggest fish. perched right by the reef.

and there are of dugongs. See François Péron National Park. For landlubbers. A catamaran tour is a the world’s best-known colony of heap of fun and the best way to see stromatolites (lumpy clusters of the marine life at close range. The nearby François Péron National Park.au for some ideas. dolphins and more can be a marine adventure.asn. TOURING THE WATERS mals. while microbes descended from organisms donning your goggles for a flight that existed 1900 million years ago). One of Australia’s last sea-grass Fishing. over the area will let you appreciate the blindingly white Shell Beach and its extraordinary beauty. where www.sharkbay. while tiger sharks. Authentic Australia 51 there’s plenty more here to check out. seen in the shallow green waters of a regional bus tour will take you to this vast bay. diving and wildlife watching beds supports a precious population are hugely popular here. Barossa Exmouth Valley Western South Australia . including some extremely rare ani. sea plenty of charter boats to take you on turtles.

endangered marsupial species are catered tours and independent canoe
being reintroduced, is also well worth hire available. In the evening you can
a wander, while the tiny town of Den- kick back at a beachside café, eat fish
ham has all the sleeping, eating and and chips on the beach or mingle
shopping facilities you need. with the locals over a steak at the pub.

KALBARRI GERALDTON
A popular holiday town on the mouth This fine old town boasts some of
of the Murchison River, Kalbarri offers the best pubs north of Perth and a
yet more beautiful beaches, some of thriving live-music scene to keep
the state’s best surf breaks and an you leaning on the long timber and
addictively easy-going ambience. brass bars well into the wee hours.
Just east of town are the deep and Swimming in the crystal-clear waters
majestic gorges of Kalbarri National of the town beaches will ease an
Park, carved out of the sandstone by aching head, or you can try your hand
the snaking twists and turns of the at windsurfing – Geraldton’s steady
Murchison. Sheer cliffs almost seem breezes are a magnet for wave-jump-
to touch as they tower above you, ers from across the world. Offshore
and climbers and abseilers take full lies the magnificent isles of the
advantage. Canoeing is a fantastic Abrolhos, home to sea-lion colonies,
way to explore this park, with both sea birds, hefty golden-orb spiders
and the small Tammar wallaby. Bring
your snorkel to gaze in wonder at the
CLOCKWORK DOLPHINS delicate reefs that swarm with a rare
Dolphins have been appearing and spectacular mix of tropical and
almost every morning for decades temperate fish species. Day trips are
at Monkey Mia, just to the east of offered by several outfits (see www
Denham. Ditch your shoes and join .geraldtontourist.com.au).
the crowd to see the dolphins being
fed in the shallows by rangers, who CERVANTES & THE PINNACLES
will fill you in on the life cycle of these On the outskirts of the small cray-
intelligent mammals. fishing seaport of Cervantes the
famous Pinnacles of Nambung

Authentic Australia 53

National Park jut weirdly out of the
desert sands. Thousands of lime- SURFING THE DUNES
stone pillars, ranging from a few North of Perth, the holiday town of
centimetres in height to towering Lancelin is a prime spot to try your
5m blocks, suggest a silent army that hand at sandboarding. Immense
is frozen in time, and at dawn and dunes or pure white sand stretch
dusk they’re an arresting and eerie down to the water, so hire a board
sight. Just beyond the dunes of the and put your skills to the test. Climb-
desert, sweeping fine-sand beaches ing the dunes is thirsty work, but the
entice you to cool off after your arid- beach is close by for a refreshing dip
area exploration and watch the sun or a quick windsurf, and Lancelin’s
swallowed up by the limpid waters of classic old pub has great beach views
the Indian Ocean – perfect for a late- to go with its ice-cold beer and locally
evening picnic. caught crays.

Barossa
Lancelin
Valley
Western
South Australia

THE GREAT SOUTHWEST Wialki Kalgoorlie-Boulder
Coolgardie
116

Nambung NP Southern
Moora Kambalda
Mt Grey Cross Boorabbin NP Widgiemooltha
Wongan Nungarin
Wedge Is y Yellowdine
Hills Hw
Lancelin Lake
95

Merredin rn
Carrabin
Cowan
Moore River NP Bindoon Goomalling ste WA
Ea
at
Gre Bruce Rock Norseman
Yanchep Cunderdin
Northam Lake Dundas Rocks
Johnston
PERTH York Dangin
Narembeen
Rottnest Wave Rock Lake
Island Corrigin Hyden Hope
Fremantle Armadale
A
40

lb Kondinin Holt Rock
Rockingham an Brookton
Jilakin Rock Salmon Gums
y Kulin Frank Hann
Mandurah National Park
30

40

Pinjarra
120

Hw Lake King
I N D I A N Lake Clifton y Narrogin 107

Scaddan
Lake Grace
OCEAN Harvey Dalyup Gibson
20

Williams Ravensthorpe
Wagin Esperance
Brunswick Coast Hwy Cape Le
Bunbury Junction
Arthur
River Bay of
Katanning uth Hopetoun Grand
So Isles NP
Cape Naturaliste Donnybrook Fitzgerald River
30

Kojonup Broomehill
Dunsborough Jerramungup National Park
Busselton Tambellup
Bridgetown
10

Stirling Bremer Bay
Margaret Nannup Range NP
Manjimup Cheyne
Cape Knob
River 10

Frankland
Augusta
Pemberton Bay
Shannon NP Mt Barker
102

D’Entrecasteaux Mt Frankland NP 30

0 100 km
NP Walpole- Albany 0 60 miles
Nornalup King George Sound
NP Walpole Denmark
SOUTHERN OCEAN

Fremantle Western Australia

Western Australia (www. the move and in a hurry.au) will introduce you to WA’s daz- PERTH zling array of marine life. THE GREAT SOUTHWEST WA’s beautiful southwest is a nature. and home to most blessed with lovely beaches.artgallery.gov.com . Perth is a city on you can learn to surf or windsurf or Scarborough Western Australia . deserted glitzy city centre to the grand old beaches. while the Aquarium of of Australia’s greatest gold rush. while a tour of tralia (www.au) is the goldfields at Kalgoorlie evokes the spirit outstanding. From its lover’s delight – its soaring forests. major city. there’s plenty to keep you More sophisticated pleasures await at the entertained. where of WA’s residents. And as befits a energise your body and captivate your mind. world-class surfing. Perth is also Settled in 1829. The Aboriginal collection superb wineries of Margaret River and the at the Art Gallery of Western Aus- bright lights of brassy Perth. jewel-like port town of Fremantle.aqwa.wa. it bustles and archipelagos and abundant wildlife will buzzes day and night.

Don’t miss a look Freo pubs. If you need to work off along the coastal fringes. In this sport. ‘Rotto’ has been Perth’s favourite playground for more than MARGARET RIVER 150 years. It’s worth the detour for this alone. Established later than its cars are banned). And buildings. since 1893. and some of the biggest when the sun goes down. the Golden Mile has been mined goes off during the running of the Kalgoorlie Racing Round. Margaret River boasts some of the finest surf breaks .just soak up the rays. The waters are also eastern rivals. The island’s most famous very finest tipples. and a walk into the heart of Australia’s greatest around the town is a must for architec- gold reef. Development has been There’s nothing like a decent kept to a minimum. Still the nation’s richest ture buffs. Perth revs and finest pubs you could ever hope up. making for sensational and now produce some the country’s snorkelling. and island remains untouched and ready at Margaret River you’re spoilt for to be explored by bicycle (private choice. Margaret River’s many protected and teem with fish and vineyards have caught up quickly marine life. with plenty of venues to at the field itself: modern techniques catch a band. complemented by residents are the quokkas. and much of the bottle of wine with a fine meal. have produced a gargantuan hole in the ground that has to be seen to be KALGOORLIE EXPRESS (SIDE TRIP) believed. from the Northbridge clubs to the to raise a glass in. all that indulgence. small international-class restaurants – wallaby-like marsupials that live this is definitely one place to plan nowhere else and are readily seen a splurge. Every September the town field. Twenty kilometres off the coast from Fremantle. the state’s ROTTNEST ISLAND biggest country horse-racing carnival. Kal’s colourful past is related Heading east from Perth takes you in a couple of museums. and its riches have built mad town there always seems to be a thriving frontier town packed with a game on – from cricket and Aussie superb Victorian and Edwardian Rules to rugby and football.

the wind and swaying upper reaches as is its fine woodcraft gallery. seen riding the Surfer’s Point waves. the Valley of the Giants breath away. Further south near town of Pemberton will take your Walpole. Pemberton Western Australia . is the through tingle trees. and attracts an inter. Treetop Walk gives a bird’s-eye view ing and ancient specimens. a giant among gi- national field every year for its ants. make for a hair-raising experience. and The magnificent old-growth karri you’ll have bragging rights over your forests surrounding the tiny timber mates for days. Gloucester Tree. A ladder of broad pegs twists helix- The majestic tall timbers of nearby like upwards around the trunk. thrusting high through the can- Masters pro event – local surfing opy to a height of 60m and topped heroes like Taj Burrows often can be by an old bushfire-lookout platform. and Boranup Forest are also worth a look. Authentic Australia 57 in the world. but from the top there are killer PEMBERTON views all the way to the coast. Among these tower.

sea has almost 50 camping grounds with eagles. the former whaling WOODY ISLAND port of Albany is littered with fine old The only island off Esperance with buildings and has its share of great visitor facilities. it takes kangaroos. more you through the best of the region’s than 100 islets dot the waters. see National Park offers more fabulous www. a shoreline dotted with isolated coves Southern right whales are easily spot. flora and fauna. marri the warm sun. It also has harpoons that bring in the punters.au. and are home to fur seals. HMAS Perth was sunk here. dolphins.ALBANY WA’s oldest town. and natural features. water and pit toilets along its path. or get right back to nature with a swim and the reef that has grown around it at Skinny Dip Bay! provides a world-class experience. heaps of sea birds and days. beaches. as well as and jarrah forests. Just east of town. can swap yarns with fishermen at the and in the warmer months diving is dock. the Cape Le Grand For details of this amazing track.bibbulmuntrack. penguins. portion of the 964km Bibbulmun White-sand beaches and brilliant blue Track will give you unrivalled access waters are just the job for lazing in to the southwest’s superb karri. but whales continue to nature reserve that’s home to abun- provide the town’s lifeblood. excellent bushwalking and camping under the stars. however.org. swimming and beach- combing the day away. These dant wildlife. . Woody is a 240-hectare beaches. ESPERANCE The gorgeous Bay of Isles surrounds BIBBULMUN TRACK this small agricultural town on a stun- If time is on your side. bunk down in coastal safari huts the go. it’s cruises and not some excellent walking trials. you George Sound from July to October. Winding its way enjoying a rare look at beach-loving from Albany to eastern Perth. ripe for some serene solo exploration by ted along the coves and inlets of King kayak. Still a thriving fishing centre. Across the water. whales and more. tackling a ning stretch of WA’s southern coast.

Esperance Western Australia .

Great Victoria Desert THE NULLARBOR PLAIN & EYRE PENINSULA Nature Reserve NULLARBOR SA PLAIN Queen Victoria Continues Spring Nature Below Reserve Nullarbor Recreation Nullarbor AY IA RAILW Reserve National Park TRANS-AUSTRAL COONANA ABORIGINAL Mundrabilla Eucla Kambalda LAND WA Border Roadhouse Widgiemooltha Madura Village Cocklebiddy Hwy e Newman’s Rocks Caiguna Eyr Great Balladonia Australian Norseman Point Dover Bight Dundas Rocks Nuytsland Nature Reserve Point Culver Salmon Gums Cape Arid National Park Grass Patch Scaddan Israelite Bay Dalyup Gibson Condingup Point SOUTHERN Malcolm OCEAN Esperance Cape Arid Oo MARALINGA lde e TJARUTJA a nc Ra Fe Do ABORIGINAL LAND ng g Fence SA Dog Maralinga e Lyndhurst (Restricted Area) Olympic Dam Andamooka Tarcoola Roxby Downs Leigh Nullarbor Lake Creek Continues Recreation Yellabinna Torrens Kingoonya Glendambo Above Reserve Recreation National Reserve Mt Finke Woomera Park Parachilna Nullarbor Lake Nullarbor Roadhouse Everard Pimba Lake National Park & Hotel Lake Torrens Yalata Nundroo Gairdner Roadhouse Roadhouse National Lake Head & Hotel Park Gairdner of Bight Penong Pureba CP Hawker Great Australian Bight Fowlers Mt Hiltaba Marine Park Bay Cactus Ceduna Beach Great Smoky Bay Wirrula Gawler Ranges Port Augusta Quorn Australian Haslam National Park Bight Poochera Iron Knob Streaky Bay Minnipa Wudinna Kyancutta Whyalla SOUTHERN Venus Bay Talia Eyre OCEAN Hwy Port Lock Pirie Elliston Rudall Snowtown Sheringa Port Arno Kadina Neill Bay Eyre Peninsula Yeelanna Spencer Port Coffin Bay Gulf Maitland Wakefield National Park Louth Bay Yorke 0 100 km Lincoln Peninsula 0 60 miles Port Lincoln National Cape Carnot Park ADELAIDE r Strait Investigato .

THE NULLARBOR PLAIN & EYRE PENINSULA The straight red road heading east from impressive coastal dunes. enough. which has strong breaks and bush camping. at Cactus Beach. hugging the coast to the WA border. the dry plain is honeycombed with limestone caves that you can NULLARBOR PLAIN venture into at Murrawijinie Cave. sula makes this a truly spectacular journey. so stop for regular breaks. but a detour down the Eyre Penin. You’ll pass the West Australian border is remarkable through Nullarbor National Park. The long stretch from Border Village Border Village marks the SA–WA to Ceduna takes in several sites along border with the Big Kangaroo. Fowlers Bay is an almost ghost Turn off at Yalata Roadhouse to get town with heritage buildings and to the Head of Bight whale-watching Great Australian Bight South Australia . Further HEAD OF BIGHT on. Below. a giant the way. marsupial that offers a cool drink to You can turn-off for legendary surf passers-by.

The area is protected by the are so good they have a festival of 20. as this vital painted emu eggs and didgeridoos.sa. You can explore the There are wild and undiscovered telegraph station ruins just 4km off spots along the Eyre Peninsula that the highway.000 mes. They migrate Ceduna is perfectly placed to sam- here from Antarctica to calve in its ple the many fishy delights of the protected waters between June and Eyre Peninsula. tuck in your napkin and To celebrate the end of your Nullar.platforms.000-sq-km Great Australian Bight their own. head to one of the local CEDUNA restaurants. will let you feel you’ve escaped the crowds. which afford spectacular views of a major breeding ground for SEAFOOD PLATTER southern right whales. It Centre. as well as an idyllic coastline . Whatever your Barrier Reef.htm) has a fascinating collection of Aboriginal artefacts and the Mar- alinga Room details the controversial EUCLA TELEGRAPH British atomic tests that occurred STATION in the desert north of here. link between Western Australia and the eastern states sent 11. the world’s second- you can sample some at Smoky largest marine park after the Great Bay or Denial Bay. climb into the freshest seafood you’ll bor trek.org.au/proper place to rest). with good beaches for ties. Hurrah’. the oysters October. and Marine Park. EYRE PENINSULA sages annually. Oysterfest (Oct). preference. Ceduna Museum the Aboriginal word cheedoona (a (www. stop in at this coastal town ever taste. Local In 1877 the first message was sent indigenous artists are featured at the from the Eucla Telegraph Station and Ceduna Aboriginal Arts and Culture read ‘Eucla line opened.nationaltrust. to enjoy the luxury of the state’s top seafood. In fact. It takes its name from stretching out on. a gallery space that features was worth celebrating.

discovaus. bunk down at Discovaus (www and Elliston along the western coast . climbing.and wind- that are famous for fishing or oyster. known as Whalers Way. with towns like Smoky Bay. For an ecologically sound secluded spot near Elliston. powered restored train carriage in a farming. a The annual Tunarama Festival (late six-day walk taking in coastline and Jan) is held in Port Lincoln on the bushland.com. a sun. fishing and swimming. On Cape Carnot. better Australia Day weekend every year. Streaky Bay stay. boat-building races and The unofficial capital of the peninsula live music. you can spot celebrating this mighty fish with tuna migrating whales. keg rolling. slippery-pole the local fur seals at Cape Wiles. and you can meet tossing. Rugged Lincoln National Park boasts FESTIVALS the challenging Investigator Trail. Authentic Australia 63 for camping. is the seafood-rich Port Lincoln. Barossa Eucla Valley Western South Australia .au).

Once Baird bay. tain from Wudinna. You can stay out of these enormous mammals. SA’s state marine emblem. through thick heathland. a get up close to the delicate leafy sea network of gravel roads leads out to dragon. It’s known for the Park promises outdoor adventure. . also known as large colony of Australian sea lions Cape Carnot. Point Labatt in Baird Bay. where a while Whaler’s Way. a 25km self-drive emus. camping in Calpatanna can join a group to explore the walks Waterhole Conservation Park at and waves of Coffin Bay and Lincoln Wedina Well.bairdbay. Hills you through your encounter with surround the town and Boston Island these playful creatures of the sea. Watch out for The Granite Trail. while Mt Wudinna is reput. including to edly SA’s largest exposed monolith. dolphins at Baird Bay is one of those ness with several tuna farms in the ‘must do’ experiences. so expect to see millionaire fish. Sudden Jerk Lookout. National Parks.GAWLER RANGES (SIDE TRIP) COFFIN BAY NATIONAL PARK Accessible from Minnipa or Wudinna. spectacular Organ Pipes (shafts of There’s bush camping at Yangie Bay granite projecting spectacularly out and several challenging day walks of cliffs). which are known to be particu- tour. the wild being discovered by bushwalkers and coastal scenery of Coffin Bay National nature-lovers alike. larly friendly around here. BAIRD BAY SEA LIONS PORT LINCOLN This prosperous port was almost the Swimming with sea lions and state’s capital and still does big busi. Boat tours forms. you’ll never want to leave the water. or you in the wild. is a great place to spot is visible from clifftop viewing plat- not-so-delicate leviathans. is a quick way to see the moun. They usually laze just 100m are available for close-up inspection away on the rocks. protects the entrance to the harbour. (SIDE TRIP) the Gawler Ranges National Park is Not far from Port Lincoln.com) has guided ermen driving beat-up utilities. Bay Ocean Eco Experiences (www. The Seahorse Farm is the best way to If you prefer to stay on dry land.

Northern Territory and Western Australia. authentic outback experiences. Specially produced by Lonely Planet with the assistance of South Aus- tralian Tourism Commission.southaustralia. ancient Aboriginal cultures. of course.westernaustralia. the resilient and welcoming people who have made this part of Australia the intriguing and unforgettable place it is. rare and precious fauna. Travelling to Australia? Travel beyond your expectations with this mini- JOURNEYS TO AUTHENTIC AUSTRALIA guide to South Australia. mind-blowing natural features. JOURNEYS TO AUTHENTIC AUSTRALIA travel beyond your expectations Away from the eastern seaboard lies a treasure trove of superb beaches. world-class wines and gourmet fare. travel beyond your expectations www. Northern Territory Tourist Commission and Tourism Western Australia.australiasoutback.com www.com SPECIALLY PRODUCED BY: SPECIALLY PRODUCED BY: . and.com www.

South Australian Tourism Commission. photocopying. Nullarbor Plain South Australia sustainied by anyone using this book. Lonely Planet Toll Free 800 275 8555 fax 510 893 8572 and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd. injury or inconvenience Eyre Highway. recording or otherwise. experiencing a culture at first hand and discovering the people. No part of this publication may be Australia Locked Bag 1. 020 7841 9000 fax 020 7841 9001 Although the authors and Lonely Planet try to make Cover Image: Rainbow Valley. the history. Other trademarks are the UK 72-82 Rosebery Avenue. sensitivity. London EC1R 4RW property of their respective owners. except for USA 150 Linden St. stored in a retrieval system or transmitted 613 8379 8000 fax 613 8379 8111 in any form by any means electronic. . Northern Territory the information as accurate as possible. leaving behind the everyday. Oakland. the land. Footscray. and Business Development: Blake Hutchison Northern Territory Tourist Commission Text Lonely Planet Publications 2005 ABN 36 005 607 983 Photographs from Lonely Planet Images. mechanical. VIC 3011 reproduced. We seek to inspire the right kind of travel – The Lonely Planet style embraces the positive power of independ- ent travel to transform both travellers and the communities to which they travel. VIC 3011. Tourism Western www. Corey Hutchison and David Connolly Tourism Western Australia. Journeys to Authentic Australia Authored at Lonely Planet by: Peter Cruttenden. Travel beyond your expectations George Dunford and Susannah Farfor Project Man- First published – June 2005 agement: Chris Love Design: Nic Lehman Layout: Published by Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Laura Jane and Mark Germanchis Editing: Adrienne Business Solutions in conjunction with Costanzo and Yvonne Byron Cartography: Paul Piaia. we accept no responsibility for any loss. The Lonely Planet way means taking risks. Wayne Murphy.com. curiosity and with a liberal sense of humour. Our responsibility is to ensure millions travel with respect. CA 94607 brief extracts for the purpose of review. Australia Australian Tourism Commission. without the 510 893 8555 written permission of the publisher.au or AOL keyword: lp Australia and Northern Territory Tourist Commission Printed in Melbourne by Print Graphics Lonely Planet offices All rights reserved.lonelyplanet. South 90 Maribyrnong Street. Footscray.