PLUCK INDIA

BENDING
THE BINARY
Is genderless dressing
the new normal?

F O R S A L E O N L Y Break the I S S U E I

Mould
I N T H E I N D I A N S U B C O N T I N E N T
Spring 2018
₹. 300
 Pheobe

F E A T U R E

The present, the concrete,

Lifestyle F E A T U R E

Feeling myself too ill-instructed

and the human
Journal to instruct others
 Pheobe

F E A T U R E

The present, the concrete,

Lifestyle F E A T U R E

Feeling myself too ill-instructed

and the human
Journal to instruct others
SUSTAINABLE | BESPOKE | UPCYCLED

www.latasita.in
 Celebrating the
timeless craft of Kalamkari

www.desicallyethnic.com
Sarees | Jackets and Tops | Dupattas | Kurtas | Dresses | Blouses | Skirts and Bottomwear | Accessories | Home Decor

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 TEAM PLUCK

Cover Feature
E D I T O R - I N - C H I E F

Karishma Sehgal

S E N I O R E D I T O R

Divya Arora

E D I T O R I A L C O N T R I B U T O R S

Divya Arora
Jasleen Arora
Paridhi Garg
Noor Sethi

P H O T G R A P H E R S

Paridhi Garg
Divya Arora
Jasleen Arora

S T Y L I S T S

Noor Sethi
Jasleen Arora
Karishma Sehgal

H A I R A N D M A K E U P

Jasleen Arora

L A Y O U T

Divya Arora
Paridhi Garg
Karishma Sehgal

W R I T E T O U S

edit@pluckmag.com

F O L L O W U S The way we dress is changing. From the dismantling of strict formal

@pluckmagazine attire and workwear codes to the rise and rise of streetwear, the mix
of clothes in our closets is ever-evolving, and the latest boundary
being broken down is the distinction between what constutes as
masculine versus feminine.

6
Guest Features
S C R E E N W R I T E R

A N D N O V E L I S T

Durjoy Dutta
@ dutta.durjoy

T R E N D F O R E C A S T E R

A N D D E S I G N E R

Geraldine Wharry
@trendatelierbygeraldinewharry

F I L M M A K E R

A N D D O C T O R

Arjun Suri
@arjunsuri

7
 PLUCK
Contents : Spring 2018

PARDON MY FRENCH
Bending the Binary 15

The Great Escape 20

Here Come the Mirror Men 28

POINT BLANK
Courage of the Caurs 64

PADDLE YOUR OWN Beware! You’re Being Greenwashed! 66

CANOE Marriage in the Age of Tinder 68

Meet the Sheroes 70

Yes We Can! 42
Reimagining the Future of Trend
Jesters of the Digital Age 50
Forecasting 74
Once a Doctor Always a Filmmaker 52
Beyond the Mainstream 78
Solemate: The rise of the sneaker culture 56
From North Westeros to North India 80
Tête-à-Tête with Durjoy Datta 60
The Fruitful Millionnaire 82

IN THE PICTURE
The A-Z of the Year’s Most Talked About 86

The Degi-feminists 92

The X-Factor 93

Pluck Horoscope 95

Pluck Loves 97

8
What is fashion, if not the promise that you
may create yourself, however you see fit? In a
world, where the gender norms are questioned
on a daily basis and the lines between uber
masculinity and coy feminity blurred, who is to
say who’s the boy or who’s the girl. Breaking the
boundaries in all aspects, are the millennials of
today. From Genderless fashion to Genderless
beauty, men and women are picking
out clothes from each other’s wardrobes,
sharing clothes, using the same make-up.

In our cover story for the Spring 2018 issue,

we’ve explored and questioned the blurring
boundaries, archaic gender roles and
destructive hashtags prevalent in today’s
time. On a quest to uncover the mystery of
gender-bend, PLUCK has also talked about
E D I T O R ’ S
the mirror men who love and adore makeup,

N O T E
inspired by the beauty boys of Instagram.

‘Paddle my canoe’, features people from

all walks of life who were daring enough to
question the stereotype and break out of it.
‘Point Blank’ investigates and looks deeper
into the life of people from different walks of
life. ‘In the picture’ talks about the A-Z of last
year’s favorite picks from around the world.

The editorial talks about the great escape of

two circus getaways. Don’t you all want to run
away and break away from the rigid rules and
regulations of the society? Team Pluck has had
great fun working for the stories in this issue.
Hope you enjoy the issue as much as we do.

Karishma Sehgal
E D I T O R - I N - C H I E F

10
Soft, breathable and 100% natural
www.andamen.com
12
 Pardon
My
French
An ode to the non-conformists and the
free-willed. Here are stories of individuals
unafraid of breaking free from the shackles
of the society’s defined rules and unafraid
to be different, because to them, being
themselves is more important.

13
 FASHION

Bending the
Binary

Gender fluidity in fashion may not have achieved the conventional status as of yet, but if runway showcases by many celebrated
international designers are to go by, it surely is a trend that’s catching on. Gender lines in fashion are fast blurring and its
proponents, fast multiplying.

W O R D S D I V YA A R O R A , JA S L EEN A R O R A , K A R I S H M A S EH G A L

S T Y L I N G K ARISHMA SEHGAL, NOOR SETHI

P H O T O G R A P H Y D I V YA A R O R A

T A L E N T S T UA R T CO U R T, S H ERWIN CO U R T, KO M A L JA IN

14
 FA R F RO M
TIMID

Sherwin is wearing
short shorts
teamed with
knee-high socks
and boots adding
finishing touches
with a fanny pack.

2
 I A M N O T A B O Y .
I A M N O T A G I R L .
I A M I .

Gender bending isn’t a new concept, sartorially speaking. Three decades ago, Jean Paul
Gaultier championed skirts for dudes. Long before that, Coco Chanel turned the classic
men’s business shirt into a woman’s best friend. Still, the recent erosion of “for her” and
“for him” is distinct in its underlying attitude – one that is less about subverting gender
norms than abandoning them altogether. PLUCK takes you on a journey through the past,
present and future of gender fluid fashion.

B L A S T F R O M TH E PA S T mirrored and graceful with drapes like shawls, anarkalis, lungis,

Androgyny as a trend sets its roots in the early 20th
century, and eminent designers like Coco Chanel, Yves Saint
Laurent and Jean-Paul Gautlier were amongst the first few to
spearhead this progression. In the 1910’s, Coco Chanel liberated
women by introducing masculine-like silhouettes, giving them the
option of wearing pants and freeing them of corsets, padding and
Victorian-styled staples. Katharine Hepburn, in the late 30’s, to get
back her confiscated pants, walked around the sets of her film in
her silk underwear. Borrowing from the boy’s club became a social
statement in the 1960’s and YSL’s ‘Le Smoking’ - a menswear
inspired tuxedo, tailored for women, revolutionized fashion at a
time when culturally conscious baby boomers were still struggling
to adapt to the second-wave feminism, avoiding to talk about
fashion. To assert more equality between sexes, Saint Laurent’s
models would always go braless under sheer organza.
Up until now, the focus had always been on women
breaking free of the stereotypical gender norms. Enter the
Peacock Revolution, time for the men to break the shackles as
well, spear-headed by the Beatles, David Bowie, Marc Bolan,
and Jimi Hendrix. Men were exploring and embracing feminine
silhouettes, growing their hair long, wearing tights, applying
‘guyliner’, without worrying about their sexuality or masculinity,
aggressively defending metrosexuality. Prince, with his silk
jumpsuits or heels, completely blurred out the lines between
the sexes. Sexy to men, masculine to ladies and Drag queen to
gay men, Grace Jones exuded an aggressive type of femininity.
In her own words, “I am my own sugar daddy. I’ve a very strong
male side, which I developed to protect my female side. If I want a
diamond necklace, I can go buy myself one.” She gave androgyny
its cultural implication and power.
A direct rejection of Machoism, Kurt Cobain, rocked the
Grunge trend by playing with his long blonde locks, eyeliner and
dresses.
Historically, pre-colonial India has seen its royalty
embrace gender fluidity as easily as its western counterparts. The
traditional male outfits of Rajasthan and Gujarat are colourful,
kurtas, salwars and churidars being an important component of
India’s unisex fashion grammar.
G E N D E R F L U I D I T Y I N I T S P R E S E N T S TAT E
Never before has the complexity and fluidity of gender
been so recognised and represented in mainstream culture. There
are transgender TV stars (Laverne Cox of Orange Is The New
Black) and chief executive officers (Martine Rothblatt of United
Therapeutics). Bruce Jenner, the Olympic and reality-TV star,
is now embracing a long-suppressed female identity as Caitlyn
Jenner.
Genderless fashion implies a modern way of thinking. It
is building momentum within the industry which is only getting
stronger. Currently, more people understand the concept and are
willing to wear a “genderless” piece. The stereotype of what makes
a woman a woman and a man a man is old fashioned. The world is
changing and genderless fashion plays a big part in that.
Unisex clothing is all in the rage right now and that’s
what high-end British department store Selfridges would
have customers believe as it launches what it calls “Agender” – a
shopping space that blurs gender lines. The retailer’s flagship store
on London’s Oxford Street has replaced its men’s and women’s
departments with three floors of unisex clothing, revamped
beauty and fashion accessories, and non gender-specific displays
(meaning no male and female mannequins).
A shift in gender boundaries that’s less revolutionary than
evolutionary, today’s blur of the sexes is an organic outgrowth of a
changing attitude in the culture as a whole. Like our clothing, we’re
becoming more relaxed about it all. In our minds there isn’t really
any gender sorting, we as a society are just starting to see things
this way. People have many definitions for their gender, so it seems
foolish that with clothes one has to pick: man or woman.
In Indian fashion, modern androgyny got off to a slow
start. A few Indian designers managed to turn heads and get
the attention of the industry with his curious long tunics with

16
 SOCIAL POLICE
MAY BACK OFF!

Komal has layred

an oversized
sweatshirt with
a baggy tee
and panelled
sweatpants.
Stuart is wearing
a tropical T-shirt
over a basic shirt.

Hey Boy,

Hey Girl.

BOOT BRIGADE

Komal’s look is completed with pointy

black boots.

17
side slits. The tunic, which fitted
brilliantly into the wardrobe of both
NO LIMITS
men and women, quickly made
waves. One such edgy designer CLUB
in question was Dhruv Kapoor
of DRVV who has carved a niche
for himself by reinterpreting fey
masculinity in Indian fashion. Pranav
Mishra, co-founder of fashion
label Huemn, interprets androgyny
differently. For him, it is more than
just a trend; it is a mood and it is
part of a gender-bender movement.
Huemn’s raw and sensual collection
for Amazon Fashion Week Summer/
Resort 2017 was Mishra’s take on
street wear and was inspired by the
luxury fashion market. There is an
underlying element of sports luxe too.

Seminal androgynous
fashion has come out of Rajesh
Pratap Singh’s atelier. Pinstriped
waistcoats, collared shirts, bow
ties and combat boots. This is how
Rajesh Pratap Singh sent his models
down the runway. If you’re thinking it
was the men strolling out in outfits
reminiscent of schoolboy uniforms,
think again. It was his women, while
the men wore florals with their
denim trucker jackets. It was a flip
that cemented his spring/summer
collection as a study in androgyny.
thinking society. The potential
dissolution of gender has become
A MOVE TO AN a reality in the present times and as
U N G E N D E R E D F U T U R E ? The predefined roles get blurry, so does
burning question for the generation the way we dress. Worldwide, when
gender neutral remains, is the binary the socio, religious and economic
bend a passing trend or is it here mindsets of people and governments L O N G L I V E ,
to stay? For a culture like ours, with are getting narrower by the day, it
its thrust on uber masculinity and becomes fashion’s responsibility to G E N D E R - B E N D !
coy femininity, adjusting to the idea put forward a genderless, inclusive
might be difficult but not impossible. and free spirited, best face forward.
Tridha is a school in Mumbai with The fashion industry’s future lies in
genderless uniforms. In a country understanding and giving voice to
that has rigid gender norms, fashion the generation Z, making them truly
is letting us move towards a forward free and independent. q

18
C H O I C E S O F M Y
O W N

Stuart has teamed up an

oversized blazer with a printed
shirt along with a deconstructed
layering of the classic white shirt.
He completes the look with
knee-high socks and sneakers.
EDITORIAL

S P O T L I G H T O N

Jasleen is wearing: Thrifted

clown pants, turtle neck from
H&M, shoes from Y.R.U. Asos

20 Noor is wearing: Pants from

Zara, thrifted clown top, heels
from Zara
 The Great
Escape
The confines of the circus stifled them so they
escped in the hope of liberation, carrying their
identity wherever they went.

C O N C E P T K ARISHMA SEHGAL

P H O T O G R A P H Y D I V YA A R O R A , PA R ID H I G A R G

S T Y L I N G K A R I S H M A S E H G A L , N O O R S E T H I , J A S L E E N A R O R A

21
 S P O T L I G H T O N

Jasleen is wearing: Thrifted

clown pants, turtle neck from
H&M, shoes from Y.R.U. Asos

Noor is wearing: Pants from

Zara, thrifted clown top, heels
from Zara
S P O T L I G H T O N

Jasleen
B L I isNwearing:
G I T Thrifted
B A B Y
clown pants, turtle neck from
Jasleen
H&M, shoes is wearing:
from Y.R.U. Asos
Thrifted
holo dress thrifted, leggings
Noor is wearing: Pants from
from Koovs, shoes from shein.
Zara, thrifted clown top, heels
com
from Zara

22
1
M E T A L
M I S T I Q U E

Noor is wearing: Skirt from

Zara, top from Vero moda,
shoes from Forever21

23
2
 C O M I N G T O
T O W N

Jasleen is wearing: Ruffled

dress from Top Shop, stockings
from Forever 21, heels from
Catwalk
 F E E L I N G T H E
M A G I C

Noor is wearing: Shoes and

blazer from Forever21, dress
from Zara
 T H E R I N G
L E A D E R

Jasleen is wearing: Dress from

Koovs, skirt & stockings from
Forever21, heels from Zara
C H A S I N G
F R E E D O M

Jasleen is wearing: Skirt

from shein.com, top from
Vero Moda , stockings from
Forever21 and shoes from
Adidas Originals x Jeremy
Scott
P I T O F
C U R I O S I T I E S
 CAPTION

About the look...

design for a particular
person and I design for
the woman I wanted to
be, the woman I used
to be, and—to some
degree—of. I always

J U M P S U I T
P A N T S

R I N G

B Y
Stella McCartney
B Y
B Y

Pomellato
The Row

Beware the
Preachers
J U M P S U I T
P A N T S

R I N G

B Y
Stella McCartney
B Y
B Y

Pomellato
The Row

31
 CAPTION

About the look...design

for a particular person and I
design for the woman I wanted
to be, the woman I used to be,
and—to some degree—of. I
always
 H O M E C O M I N G

Jasleen is wearing: Turtle neck

from H&M, thrifted skirt, pants
from Henry Holland for Koovs,
and shoes from Y.R.U ASOS

Noor is wearing: Turtle neck

from H&M, maxi dress from
New Look, denim jacket from
Koovs and shoes from Zara
 BEAUTY
Here Come the
Mirror Men
We’re in an age where men wearing makeup is no longer unheard of. Owing to the
emergence of male beauty influencers like Coverboy James Charles and beauty
mogul Jeffree Star, makeup is in the early stages of becoming more gender-inclu-
sive, and the social media has a huge part to play in making this possible.
W O R D S
P H O T O G R A P H Y
T A L E N T
Gender roles are blurring, now more than ever.
In a time where designers and top brands are widening
their markets by marketing their clothes as gender
fluid and neutral, it’s reasonable that fashion’s younger
but comparatively more tolerant sister, beauty, join the
bandwagon as well. Some use clothing to express and
explore, some use art.
In the ‘selfie-obsessed’ generation, availability
of camera phones and the constant pressure of being on
social media has made men more and more conscious
about how they look. In this generation Z’s world, where
Instagram likes and Tinder swipes establishes how
popular and worthy you are, more and more men have
added makeup to their everyday routine. Looking good
is more than just a suit and a watch. It’s also about how
confident and camera-ready you feel. If a little concealer
helps you hide the zits or acne, applying ‘guyliner’
makes you feel like a rockstar and the powder works
as an instant cure to puffy eyes or a bad hangover,
there’s absolutely no harm in investing in a makeup kit,
irrespective of your gender.
Historically, men have always worn makeup.
The concept dates back to Ancient Egyptians, who
painted their eyelids with malachite and lined their
eyes with Kohl. It was believed that green eye shadow
would evoke gods Horus and Ra to ward off harmful
illness. Ancient Brit warriors contoured their faces in
.
DI V YA A ROR A
& M A K E - U P JA SLE E N A ROR A
N AV E E N AG G A RWA L
blue. European kings used to powder their faces and
wear heels to look taller and to show power and status.
Romans dyed their hair. In China and Japan, men
colored their nails with egg and gelatin to assert their
privilege and status. In South Korea, all pop stars have
been wearing BB creams, Eyeliners and Eyeshadows
since years.
Hitherto, Men have been shy and coy while
purchasing foundations and other beauty products from
the departmental stores. They would just borrow from
their girlfriend’s or sister’s vanity without actually buying
for themselves. The brands also had limited shades and
products that would cater to both the sexes. Times have
changed now, brands have increasingly recognized the
wide demographic and hyper-consumerist economy
that this world is. Part of the reason metrosexuality
happened was because in a consumerist society,
you can’t have half of the people sitting at home, not
buying things. In 2008, YSL released the male version
of Touche éclat. Major beauty brands like Maybelline
and M.A.C are collaborating and flaunting male faces on
their advertisements and stores. MAC collaborated and
launched a gender-neutral range of products with Harry
and Peter Brant, who had been wearing makeup since
High School. Gabriel Zamora has become the official
ambassador for MAC. James Charles was the first male
model to be the CoverGirl Ambassador, Maybelline
New York tapped Manny Gutierrez and Rimmel
34
35
 London employed Lewys Ball. To ease the process of
buying makeup for men, MMUK has chosen online fashion giant
ASOS as their portal for the compulsive shoppers.

Gary Thompson, @theplasticboy, another beauty

boy of instagram, tells Byrdie that,” This year alone, I’ve bought
24 foundations and it’s not even Christmas yet.”

Makeup is no more considered as a necessary evil but

as a means to empower, any and every person who’s an artist
and can use this as an armor, an instant boost of confidence in a
filter flooded, over judgmental world. Women have had to deal
with the pressure of a perfect imagery the brands and media
created using photoshopped and perfect figure models. Now,
men are going through the same thing. There is a major surge in
men going to the salons for manicures, hair coloring and facials.
Not too long ago, moisturizer was considered girly and now it’s
a staple in every guy’s gym kit. In South Korea, male grooming
business in blooming with guys wearing light makeup everyday
to feel more confident. Even grooms have their own wedding
beauty rituals.

But why should men wearing make-up be classified

as a ‘trend’ or as feminization of men? Women wear pants and
drink beer all the time and that is never seen as them getting in
touch with their masculine side. It is not about men becoming
Nav
NNaveen applying lipstick and wearing ‘guyliner’

‘gay’ or ‘too girly’. You don’t have to be gay to be flamboyant.

It’s about them becoming everything. If women can be
encouraged to be everything and be out there, so could the
men be. Make-up is a form of self-expression and it shouldn’t
stop you from liberating and freeing yourself. It’s breaking down
the stereotype and in doing so, more men wear makeup less for
‘covering up’ but for ‘expression’. The beauty boys of instagram
have their own aesthetic and they’re not Drag.

When the typical gender roles are reversed, women

do plenty of looking and men are plenty looked at( by women,
other men and themselves). Women are no more shamed for
wearing too much makeup and the men are no more restricted
to just protein shakes, beards, triceps, abs and poses. Elvis
Presley and David Bowle rocked makeup and were proud of it.
Johnny Depp rocked Kohl better than a moody goth teen.

In Hollywood, Clark Gable’s polished look was the first

example of ‘metrosexual beauty’. In the early 2000’s, Jared
Leto and Adam Lambert got the ‘guyliner’ the much needed
popularity. The general notion regarding the idea of men
wearing makeup was that Rock Stars and Circus performers
aside, real men can’t apply makeup. It’s too feminine. L’Oréal in
collaboration with Jake Jamie, made it a mission to de-gender
makeup. Men are asked to tone down their makeup at
workspace while their female counterparts can apply as many
layers as they want. For models, it’s pretty obvious, they’ll apply
concealer and highlighter to look great on the ramp, but what
about the average man?

36
 “Make-up is a form of art and there is no gender for beauty, no
gender for creation.”, says Naveen, a make-up enthusiast from
the capital.
“ I didn’t just feel beautiful or handsome, I was outwardly
so. And for one of the first occasions, my outward and inner
beauties merged together, my light bright from within and
sparkling from highlight.”, James Charles tells Teen Vogue.
In August 2017, it was announced that the French
President, Emmanuel Macron had spent $30,000 on makeup
in three months, ever since he had assumed office. Alexander
the great was ridiculed throughout ancient literature for
wearing makeup. He was undefeated in battle and ruled the
largest empire of the Ancient world. Go, figure.
We’re all made-up. It’s time we stopped throwing
“Make up is the paint, our face the canvas, and we’re the
artists.”, says Mansi Middha, owner and celebrity make up
artist at Mansi Middha Makeovers, New Delhi.
37
things into categories, archaic gender ideas or destructive
hashtags. People judge others far too easily without knowing
who they’re judging. You don’t have to like it, but you can’t decide
what other people of any gender can put on their faces, and
with a contour and a highlight that can light up the entire village,
men deserve free cocktails and not close minded criticism. 2017
has been a great year for gender inclusivity and in the decades
to come, male focused cosmetic products are going to be a
permanent feature of beauty halls.
In the words of Jake-Jamie Ward, the beauty boy of
Instagram,“I believe we’ll look back in five years and say, I can’t
believe that was ever an issue.” q
REDEFINING HOW THE
WORLD SEES HOME DECOR
 Paddle
Your Own
Canoe
An ode to the non-conformists and the free-willed.
Here are stories of individuals unafraid of breaking
free from the shackles of the society’s defined rules
and unafraid to be different, because to them, being
themselves is more important.

39
 PADDLE
YOUR
OWN
CANOE
Set out to do things their own way and tread
a path less taken, these individuals are carving
a niche for themselves against all odds - truly
winners in their own right.

40
41
B E I N G M Y O W N
D R I V I N G F O R C E

42
 LIFESTYLE

As women today are sidestepping preconceived

notions and crossing over into roles that have
historically been populated by men, PLUCK
reimagines women in jobs that are unthinakable to
be up “the weaker sex’s” alley.

Yes We
Can!
C O N C E P T N O O R S E T H I

W O R D S K A R I S H M A S E H G A L

P H O T O G R A P H Y J A S L E E N A R O R A

43
P A I N T I N G M Y
O W N D R E A M S
In our society, numerous jobs come with a
gender-stereotype tag. For instance, the job
of a nurse is thought to be fit for a woman,
whereas that of a plumber is a man’s domain.

These stereotypes, to a huge extent, impact

the way we think and act. Would you give
a female electrician the same amount of
respect and independence to do her job?

Perhaps not.

45
46
 M A R C H I N G T O
47
M Y O W N B E A T S
C A R V I N G M Y
O W N N I C H E

1
2
 ENTERTAINMENT

Graphic designer Akshar Pathak parodies the blogging

community on his social media accounts
Source: Instagram

Jesters of the
American actor Tom Lenk recreates celebrity red carpet
looks with trash
Digital Age
Source: Instagram

In today’s appearance-driven world where there’s so much madness for materialism,

sometimes, finding humour in the darkest of places and times is a means of respite, even if it is
a momentary one.

A
W O R D S K A R I S H M A S E H G A L

green smoothie sipping, head-to-toe These digital jesters delve into the lives, habits and
Gucci-clad fashion blogger here; a doc- idiosyncrasies of people that are huge drivers of popular
tor-turned-model with a Greek God-esque culture. Except, instead of fawning over bigwigs like their
physique there — scroll through your fans do, their work features more of satirical takedowns that
Instagram feed and you’ll see, such visuals are are flippant, sassy and parodic. They also touch a chord with
hardly a rarity. the internet’s millennial community with their wisecracks
about first world problems, aspirations and insecurities that
Today, the barrage of Instagram and Twitter influencers Generation Y often deals with.
sharing daily posts of their impeccably put-together #OOTDs
and their exotic #Travelgrams may compel you to rethink Internet’s Funny Folks
your #Lifegoals. Amidst the brouhaha of these seemingly Akshar Pathak, graphic designer by profession and creator
picture-perfect lifestyles, however, is a far more real and of the famous ‘Minimal Bollywood Poster’ series, has a huge
relatable faction of social media tastemakers (with a sense of social media following for reasons far too many — possibly
humour) who are are also gaining ground. We call them the the greatest one being his penchant for wry humour seen in
jesters of the digital age. the digs he takes at the blogging and influencer culture that

50
is so rampant today. Describing himself
as a “Food Blogger, Travel Blogger,
Fashion Blogger, Lifestyle Blogger,
Health Blogger, Fitness Blogger, Tech
Blogger, Blog Blogger” on his Instagram
and Twitter bios, you’ll see Pathak
making a mockery of everything that
bloggers typically do — from staging
the perfect frames for pictures to having
opinions about everything under the sun.
Another popular presence on the
internet, whose true identity is a mystery,
Pakalu Papito (which is the name he uses
on Twitter and Instagram), is best known
for his self-deprecating humour, hilarious
memes and random rants about life that,
if anything, are highly relatable. Dropping
truth bombs like, “later is the best time to
do anything”, Pakalu Papito has earned
himself a following of close to 5 million
on Twitter and 418 K on Instagram. His
bio says that works at a gas station, but
nobody really knows.
Insta-famous humorist and actor, Celeste
Barber, does hilarious interpretations of
celebrity photo shoots on Instagram.
Taking jibes at the unrealistic standards
of beauty and perfection that the media
normalises, Barber is as real and relatable
as can get. Following a similar style, Tom
Lenk recreates red carpet looks donned
by celebrities, using trash. It is both,
amusing and impressive.
Taking the drollery a notch further,
Vetememes does a fun play on the
works of the label, Vetements, that has
taken the world of fashion by storm.
Started by Davil Tran, Vetememes is
perhaps fashion’s first real-life meme
label that offers clothing similar to
that of the high fashion house at a
fraction of the original’s cost. Tran also
recently went on to launch another line
of clothing by the name, Boolenciaga,
which is Balenciaga’s copycat cousin.
Other noteworthy mentions of
accounts that have made the internet
an entertaining place include Texts
from your Existentialist — an Instagram
account created by Los Angeles based
artist April Eileen Henry that shares
images of classical paintings with speech
bubbles voicing out modern-day troubles; collection of memes.
Brands Saying Bae — the Twitter leader
The industry is also increasingly using
for mocking the things companies do
memes to bring to light plagiarism that
to sound cool; and girlwithnojob — an
happens in fashion. Designer Alexander
Instagram meme account run by Claudia
Wang took the meme route to accuse
Oshry Soffer.
Philipp Plein for copying the set from his
debut collaboration show with H&M in
Making Memes Fashion Inclusive 2014. Philipp Plein used strikingly similar
In recent times, fashion has, to a great sets, props, accessories and performers at
extent, aimed at becoming more inclusive his Milan Fashion Week Men’s A/W 2017
by embracing models of varied ethnicities, showcase.
plus-size and transgender models, and
even those with disabilities. With the rise
of social media giving the world a peek
into the earlier exclusive fashion industry,
especially on platforms like Instagram
and Snapchat, it has become very easy for
fashion biggies to be called out for their
offensive and irresponsible behaviour.
There is now a free-flow of ideas amongst
people and fashion brands, and needless
to say, being an industry with such
great power to influence, fashion has a
responsibility to uphold, now even more
so.
Designer Alexander Wang used a meme to accuse
Philipp Plein for copying his old set in his A/W showcase
As fashion is getting more accessible
Source: Instagram
and social media pervasive, interestingly,
it is also hugely embracing the meme It turns out that in today’s appearance-
culture. Earlier this year, Elliot Tebele, driven world where there’s so much
better known as FuckJerry from his madness for materialism, sometimes,
popular Instagram meme account finding humour in the darkest of places
walked the ramp for at Ermenegildo and times is a means of respite, even if it is
Zegna’s FW17 show at the Milan Fashion momentary. q
Earlier this year,
Elliot Tebele, better
known as FuckJerry
from his popular
Instagram meme
account walked
the ramp for at
Ermenegildo
Gucci ran the #TFWGucci meme campaign for its new Zegna’s FW17
watch launch (Source: Gucci.com)
Week. In March, Gucci unveiled the show at the Milan
Fashion Week.
#TFWGucci campaign, wherein the Italian
fashion house empanelled with meme
artists for the launch of its “Le Marché
des Merveilles” watch collection with a
51
 ART & CULTURE

“I am self admittedly
one of the worst writers
in the country” - Durjoy
Dutta
He’s the poster boy of Indian romance novels. His work may not feature amongst the
favourites of the literary geniuses of the world, but he has a dedicated fan-following
queing up to grab the first signed copies of his books whenever they release.

W O R D S J A S L E E N A R O R A

52
 You’re one of India’s
leading bestselling authors with
fourteen novels published over the
course of 9 years. How do you think
life would’ve panned out if you
hadn’t decided on being a full-time
writer?
For someone who has built
a life around writing, be it novels,
short stories, blogs, television or
movies, I have never sat down and
thought why I write instead of being
on an oil rig or a car manufacturing
plant or designing a marketing
plan for a soap or selling financial
products all of which I have been
trained and educated. Believe it or
not, I’m an engineer andI did my
post graduation in management,
so it wasn’t easy. In 2011, I was
working with American Express as a
marketing analyst and quitting my
job to be a full-time writer was the
most difficult decision I’ve had to
take in my life.
What’s your personal
favorite literary genre and who is
your favorite author?
I think that keeps on
changing, if i say something today its
going to change three months down
the line. The genre which is always
going to be on the top of my list
because i’ve never even come close
to writing is fantasy. Also, i’ve grown
up reading a lot of fantasy books like
Harry Potter series, Game of Thrones,
Philip Pullman etc. so, fantasy writing
has always been the dream.
What are your views on
the current crop of fiction writers?
Do you think a lot of them choose
to write love stories because that’s
a definite formula for commercial
success?
No, I don’t think so. If there
was a definite formula for success,
there would be more authors writing
the same genre but there’s hardly
four of us and we’ve been there since
the last seven years. Writers like
Preeti Shenoy and Ravinder Singh
have made their mark in the industry
because of their writing
being romance centric.
“You can go back and forth in this
conversation as much you want
At one of and ask me “Why do your books
your your TedX talks in
sell?” constantly. My books sell
early 2014 , you spoke
about being an author because they’re engaging.”
and in your words,
I quote “Im definitely not one of under the radar and i have my own
the best writers in the country, if niche audience and a following
anything else I’m one of the worst. which is sort of dedicated.
I’m just a commercial author whose
books sell”. Can you shed some
What are your views
light on this ?
on the literal circuit and literary
(Laughs) How many TedX
events that happen in India ? How
talks did you see? They’re so bad and
much of it is about people actually
also, I’m self admittedly one of the
getting together to celebrate good
worst writers in the country. Its not
writing versus it being just another
humility, its just being self-aware.
p3 event for socialites and pseudo
Just like I wouldn’t say I have a better
intellects to be spotted at?
body than Ranveer Singh, its a very
First of all, these can’t
objective thing to say that I’m a bad
fall into the category of pseudo
author. I’m the worst writer amongst
intellects or P3 socialites because
the writers whose books I’ve read till
these guys are not talked about
the very end. You can go back and
enough. Being a writer is not about
forth in this conversation as much
being famous in a county like India.
you want and ask me “Why do your
Some literature festivals like the
books sell?” constantly, my books
ones in Jaipur and Bangalore are an
sell because they’re engaging. A lot
exception because the turnout is
of people I know try writing books
huge. It is very commercial though
and they get caught into either trying
nowadays, but its not necessarily a
to ape someone in terms of writing
bad thing. At such events you have
quality or they just don’t know how to
to make everything sound exciting,
tell a story. So, there are worse writers
even if there’s a movie promotion
than me but you would not hear their
and 300 people come to the event to
name in the industry.
see a movie star and buy a random
Where do you place
book, there is a ripple effect created
yourself in the pantheon of Indian
which only adds to the society in
writers?
terms of readers and critics. In my
(Laughs) Im the Zeus, since
opinion, these events should be more
you said Pantheon. I’m actually very
commercial and promoted well.
uncomfortable with the idea of being
known not because of my books. So,
As the digital revolution
if someone has read my books and
dominates the arts , how has it
loves me or hates me it’s fine. For
changed your approach to your
example, writers like Chetan Bhagat
craft? Has social media a big
or Amish Tripathi, a lot of people
influence in your field?
know of them but they haven’t read
their books. Im the one who flies
53
 No, not
really. Social media
has made the
entire process very
complex because
now you feel like
you constantly have
to be on your toes,
driving people into
buying books which
was not the case
earlier where you
just wrote a book
and forget about it,
your publishers took
care of the rest. Now
there’s an entire
team dedicated
to improving
your social media
and keeping it
interesting, so
you sell more and
more. Its partly also
the reason why television shows
My readership starts from
don’t work anymore because one
12, actually. The key to keep young
can easily spend half an hour on
Facebook just scrolling through.
readers engaged is to write stories
they can connect to. You build
RAPID FIRE WITH
Social media has made some dent
into the readership for sure.
a character in such a way that it
connects with the audience. q
DURJOY
You started your own
publishing house right after you Essentials on your bedside table ?
graduated from management A book and a lamp,
school, back in 2011, at such an early
phase in your career how did that Book character you identify with?
work out for you? Is that something All male characters in David Nicole’s books.
you still aspire to do?

Creative mind that you admire the most?

It was something that I Salman Rushdie
wanted to do and it was absolutely
amazing to be your own master Your idea of perfect happiness is?
and to do something you’re deeply Peace of mind. I just don’t want to be bothered.
connected to which in my case is
reading and writing books. A day in
Do you ever google yourself?
my life when I was running Grapevine
India was to read manuscripts all day
All the time.
and write my own books side by side.
Trust me when i say this, it was the A word you overuse
best phase of my life but sadly we It keeps on changing, right now it is ‘perplexed’.
had to part ways.
Last book you read.
Your readership audience
The Churn of Ocean by Sanjiv Sahni
is mostly teenagers, starting
from age 14, How do you keep the First book you ever read.
youngsters engaged into keep ‘A Room on the Roof’ by Ruskin Bond
reading your books?

54
 LIFESTYLE

Once a Doctor, Always

a Filmmaker!
In a tête-à-tête with Arjun Suri, a doctor turned filmmaker, who faced all kinds of
odds to pursue his passion and ultimately turn it into his profession. In a candid
conversation with PLUCK, Arjun talks about his initial projects, post MBBS and the
innate struggle that was his everyday routine, of venturing out into a completely
unknown space and genre of work.

W O R D S D I V Y A A R O R A

What made you take the leap of
faith? Was it an impulsive decision or you
knew you wanted to be a film-maker all
along?
— harder- Getting started or to be able to keep
Arjun: It wasn’t really a leap at all
but a slow and deliberate process. I’d been
writing and directing plays and short films at
med-school for a very long time. I was majorly
into photography and that took an interesting
turn when a friend asked me to shoot a film for
his brother’s wedding. I wasn’t confident that I
could pull it off and quoted a ridiculous amount
of money hoping that he’d turn me down - but
he agreed! Pulling a one-man show meant that
I had to learn everything on the job. It did fall
into place eventually and at the screening their
family had tears in their eyes.
What was the transition like? Were
the people around you supportive or you
were ridiculed for being too ambitious?
— —
Arjun: I don’t concern myself with
what others think so whether it’s praise or
doubt - it doesn’t matter as long as I’m happy
with what I’m doing. My parents have always
been supportive but were rightly concerned
about the possibility of not being able to make
a living out of filmmaking. This was very short
lived since the wedding film business really
took off. I spent two years making those; then
took whatever I made and headed to Mumbai
and joined a film school. The knowledge,
experience and industry contacts I gained
there made the transition extremely smooth.
What kept you going? What was
going?
— going to be for the people looking for a
Arjun: I wish I could say that one can
keep going only out of love for the craft. While
that may exist, the fight to wake up every
morning and face the blank page is very real.
But at the end of the day, the gratification
one gets from doing what one loves is
uncomparable to anything. I wouldn’t trade
that with anything in the world.
What were your initial projects
like? How was the experience like diving
into a completely unfamiliar genre of work?
What has been the biggest hurdle in your
journey?
Arjun: All the short films I made
in film school were horrible! They were
outrageously overthought/under-executed
films - but I love them, because they taught
me everything I know. Talking about making
films and making films are two very different
things. You have to put yourself out there
and fail in order to get anywhere close to
developing your craft. If one of my film school
shorts worked, I knew I’d stopped challenging
myself and set out to fail again. That is the
biggest hurdle but more often than not - the
hurdle, is the way.
Are you a self taught film-maker
or you’ve acquired some form of formal
education for the same? What is your advice
similar career direction?
—
Arjun: Narrative cinema is something
I couldn’t have gotten good at without the
remarkable teachers at Whistling Woods
International, Mumbai. I’ve made about
twenty-three short films in the last four years
and only on watching the last three, can I say
“This is exactly how it played in my head!”. It
takes practice, like any craft.
Whatever you do, just know that
great stories come from personal experience
so get plenty of that before you set foot in a
film school.
What makes a film great to you?
What films have been influential and
inspiring to you and why?
—
Arjun: If a film is engaging and
eventually helps you understanding a little
something about yourself or the world around
you, I’d put it right up there with the greats.
There have been so many of them! Major
influences would be (in no particular order)
Bresson, Haneke, Ostlund, Hitchcock, Truffaut,
Kieslowski and the Coen brothers. I was

56
 Source: The Blink Arts

recently blown
and are slowly dying?
away by Ostlund’s “The
__
Square” - that is some
Arjun: I think they’re
great cinema!
only just getting started,
especially in India where the
They say it’s all
audience is bored of what
been done and we’ve
they’re being fed! You should
seen it all. How do you
see the cinema loving crowds
stay original in the time of
at IFFI or Mumbai Film Festival
aggressive remakes and
every year!
plagiarism?
—
What has been your
Arjun: Give a
favourite project so far and
script to two different
why?
directors and they’ll
__
come back with two
Arjun: Since April, I’ve
completely different films.
been writing my first feature
If every idea comes from
film “Doctor, Doctor!” that
a thought that originated
goes into production early
with another idea, what
next year. It’s about a doctor
then, is original? Your own
and his to-be-doctor son -
distinct voice. Honest and
the idea, of course, stems
unfazed by commercial
from everything I’ve seen
pursuit.
in my life growing up in a
family and society of doctors and being
How do you keep your creative
one myself. This is part of a trilogy through
juices flowing? What’s your idea of taking that our cinema grows and starts to reflect
which I wish to explore and dissect the
a break? the diversity in this country rather than
Indian medical care and education system,
–– conform to the set “bollywood” model that
the values we as a society attribute to it and
Arjun: I think creativity is just a we have come to be known for.
why we as individuals eventually stand to
marketable word for engaging with an idea
fail.
while keeping your mind in tune with the Do you see films being created
world outside of it. As long as the idea holds by a more accessible medium like an
How’s your journey been like and
you, you don’t really need a break. Sure, I’d iPhone, in the coming times?
if there’s one thing you could go back and
stop for coffee from time to time but when __
change, what would it be? What’s your
I start doing that too often - it’s the idea that Arjun: It’s already happening!
suggestion to our readers, who want to
need to change. “Tangerines” (2015) was shot entirely on
take the leap but are hesitating to do so?
an iPhone. An Indian film “Zoo”, produced
__
How much has digital screening by Anurag Kashyap and directed by Shlok
Arjun: One can’t change the past,
platforms like Netflix and Amazon Prime Sharma was also shot entirely on an
why spend time thinking about it? To you
helped in giving space to young and iPhone. Equipment is not an excuse for not
out there who want to do pretty much
budding filmmakers? going out to make a film anymore.
anything in life - just do not let procrastina-
They’ve made so many great films
tion take a hold of you - it’s never going to
possible - I hope they continue to support Do you like film festivals? Do
be just right. I remember being frustrated
content from independent filmmakers so you feel the festivals have had their day
one night and scribbling on my bedroom

57
 “I’ve made about twenty-three

short films in the last four years and only

wall : “The Perfect Place, Is Here. The Perfect Time, Is
Now”. It’s good to wake up to that every day and put
in the work.
on watching the last three, can I say “This is

Use one word to describe the future of

exactly how it played in my head!”.
the Indian film industry and your role in it.
__
Arjun: Possibilities. That’s all I can manage
in a word! If I had a sentence though, it’d probably
be that the future is very bright for anyone who has
a unique story and a fearless voice. Thank you for
having me do this, it was fun to reflect on things one
never really thinks about. q

58
1
59
 FASHION
Solemate: The Rise
of the Sneakerhead
Culture
For many of us, buying a pair of sneakers is a chore. But for this sneaker head, there’s evidently
no greater joy than a fresh pair of kicks. PLUCK catches up with Sahil Nandal to know what fueled
this obsession and what sustains it.
Introduce yourself and what you do for a
living?
My name is Sahil Nandal, Im grew up in Brazil
and Japan but I’m settled in Delhi currently.
I’m an entrepreneur and I own a 3D printed
jewellery brand called Mirakin. I also collect
and re-sell sneakers for a living.
How many shoes do you have in total?
I have around 145 pairs of kicks in total,
mostly Jordans, but I try to buy exclusive
sneakers from other brands as well.
Roughly how much does it cost you to get a
pair of lets say, Jordans?
The cost actually depends on the kind of
Jordans you’re buying, but I do get a little
cheaper than retail prices because I have
contacts in Japan and USA. On an average I
would spend 180$ a pair and for Hype kicks it
would be around 400$ -450$.
What do you think about the increase of
the sneaker hype?
Increase of the sneaker hype is really
necessary and important in India but some
sneakers are hyped here for no reason, such
as the Yeezy. The pricing of the Yeezy is
W O R D S J A S L E E N A R O R A
P H O T O G R A P H Y P A R I D H I G A R G
pointless and their resale value is insane, it
doesn’t justify the design and the worth of
the sneaker.
Have you participated in events like the
Sneaker conventions or have you lined up
for a particular shoe?
Yes, I have been to Sneaker Con once, I’m
going again this year. I have lined up for a
particular shoe lots of times because I really
wanted that pair quite badly.
How is the sneaker scene changing in India?
The scene has instantly and rapidly changed
this past year. With the rise of regular sneaker
update pages on social media, meet ups and
launch events for hyped kicks from major
brands. It is just getting started though, we
are still decades behind major street wear
players such as Japan, USA etc, where people
are so knowledgeable about kicks and street
wear trends, it is more about their love and
knowledge about kicks than showing off
there goodies. In India its the other way
round because not many people still know
or care about the history of the kicks they are
wearing. Its a great start though, bound to
bloom here onwards.
60
1
What’s your story, how did you get into the
sneaker game?
I got my first pair of Jordans almost 10 years
back and I have been in the sneaker game
ever since. Back in college, when I didn’t have
enough money I’d be trading pairs but now I
just buy them. The re-sell the ones I have no
use of to buy the ones i do need.
What was the craziest thing you have done
just to get a pair of shoes?
So, Kaws x Jordan is one of the only hyped
kicks of the year that I really liked, design
color and detail wise. The pair was bound
to drop on March 31st, so I spoke to 2 of my
sneaker plugs (one in USA and one in Japan)
to line up and find a way to get this sneaker; I
myself was bound to be in Japan the next day.
Upon release, the sneaker sold out in minutes
with almost no chance of a regular customer
getting their hands on them. The need was
real though. I went to a Japanese resale store
where I knew they were going to drop a the
Kaws pair with a considerable markup, and
made a trade with my 1994 OG Supreme
Box Logo Hoodie. It was really crazy as that
particular shoe is now selling for 2000$. He
has become my friend since then and informs

me of every restock/release before it becomes
official just to give me a heads up which is
what keeps me steps ahead of the rest.
Does it affect you on a daily basis? Your
perspective on beauty? If you see people,
the first thing you look at is their shoes and
not what they wear?
Yes, it does. But not just sneakers,
I do collect streetwear as well. So, I
do look at sneakers first but overall
look matters as well.
How would you know if that
particular shoe is exclusive?
It depends on the collaboration, if its a
collaborative shoe or a first edition or its if not
bound to release again. It also depends on
who designed them, history behind the shoe.
Since you’ve grown up in Japan, what role
do you think the Japanese culture has
played in your choice of lifestyle ?
Japanese culture has played a huge role in me
being a sneaker head. I don’t think I would’ve
cared more about street style and street
culture if I hadn’t been in Japan. In Japan
people appreciate street wear, sneakers a
lot more, you’d see random small time shop
owners and people in markets wearing really
upbeat clothes because people around notice
and compliment. Japanese street style has
influenced me in such a way that its main the
reason my lifestyle is what it is right now.
Do you think all of this is worth it?
“I have around 145 pairs of kicks in total,
mostly Jordans but I try to buy exclusive
sneakers from other brands as well.”
For me this is what happiness is, so it is totally
worth the time, money and effort I’ve put into
building my collection. Most people collect
stamps, postcards, rocks and stuff, I collect
sneakers and streetwear.
If you had to pick 3 favorites from your
collection which ones would they be?
Kaws X Jordan, Jordan 5 Chinese New Year
Special , Air Jordan 4 White Cement.
Since everyone is buying new release
right now, do you feel like there is more
opportunity collect older stuff?
61
Sahil Nandal with his extensive sneaker collection
Older stuff is more valuable than new releases
in the future anyway, I think. New releases
are just a matter of the hype game around
the time of their launch with no history
whatsoever.
We hear that your sister and brother in law
are also into collecting sneakers, you’re
a family of sneaker heads one
would say. How do you feel about
such support and interest your
family members have for your
lifestyle ?
Since my sister is 7 years older
than me, all my fashion and style choices
come from her. Reginald , my brother is law
is an even bigger street style fanatic that I
am. This is how we grow as a family, when
we meet all we talk about is what new kicks
are dropping in the market, street culture,
what’s being hyped currently and the culture
it grows on you this way. As we meet, I realize I
wouldn’t be a street head without them being
with me throughout this journey my life has
been so far. q
62
 Point Blank
Investigative pieces bringing to spotlight all that is relevant, fresh,
exciting and cutting edge in our community. These stories will force you
to think, to consider and to act.
 CULTURE

The Courage
of Caur
Arpana Caur, a renowned contemporary Indian artist
talks to PLUCK about the trauma of 1984 and how it
gave greater depth and life to her creativity.

W O R D S N O O R S E T H I

P H O T O G R A P H Y P A R I D H I G A R G

64
 A painting from ‘The World Moves On’ - Arpana Caur’s series on the 1984 riots
and inconsolable
T h e
widows exhaust
widespread
themselves in an
massacre of
obvious comment: a
thousands of
man unaffected by
Sikhs following
the violence around
Mrs Gandhi’s
him. The attitude of
as sas sination
selfish self-absorp-
was blamed
tion becomes the
on impromptu
recurring image in
mob violence.
the series. Set on a
All verifications
backdrop of vibrant
suggested
red and orange
that it was
on overwhelming
pre-planned for
canvases, the series
the anniversary
does more than
of Guru Nanak’s
leaving you with an
birthday and
after thought.
was simply
b r o u g h t
forward, with But the
one of the top names in Indian art, She
the government-controlled  ‘All India dark images have some shades of light
had been caught in the crossfire of
Radio’ constantly inciting the killers with as well. Birds and trees in full bloom form
hatred along with her mother Padma
the words “Take blood for blood”.  The the backdrop to many horrid images.
Shri Ajeet Caur that swept Delhi after
army  was confined to barracks for three “Nature always runs its course, finishing
Indira Gandhi’s assassination. They were
full days to allow free rein to organized a cycle. Gods don’t participate in human
thrown out of their house by the tenant
gangs carrying Sikh voter lists, armed tragedy, they just watch,” Caur explains.
during the massacre and were given
with identical steel rods and an unusually This is not her first series on the riots.The
shelter by an acquaintance in JNU for a
plentiful supply of kerosene, to go around Missing Audience series captured the
couple of months. Caur and her mother
the capital in municipal buses beating emotions running high amidst growing
would pile up blankets and medicines
and burning male Sikhs and gang-raping violence, immediately after the riots. The
to the riot affected colonies and refugee
women and young girls. Prominent brutal beast that man becomes in such
camps as they chose not to be cowards
Hindus and Sikhs begged the new Prime times is portrayed in terrible colours as
and stepped out of the house to help the
Minister,  Rajiv Gandhi, to order troops to are the reasons for it – violent repression.
needy. They described it as a chaos of
restore order. His chilling response was:
tragic chain of events which circled over
“When a big tree falls, the ground is Though the message is
cities and villages.
bound to shake”. The same scenes were palpable, no lessons were learnt. “Even
enacted throughout the country. after all this time, there is no justice.
The trauma of 1984, however,
It almost seems like that life has no
gave greater depth and life to Caur’s
Over 3,000 were slaughtered value in India”, says Arpana Caur when
creativity. Her series on the riots,  ‘World
on the streets of India’s capital over the asked about the role of justice in 1984
Goes On’, captures the terrible self-ab-
next three days. Much distinguishes massacre.
sorption of the civil society to the horrors
this pogrom from other communal
unleashed by mob violence. The series,
riots which have happened of late.  The Reams have been written
perhaps the only one of the ’84 riots, won
massacre continued for three days about the 1984 riots, but Caur’s canvas
her the Triennale award in 1986.
and the survivors of the riots say the say more than what thousands of words
nightmare continued even when they could. q
Caur has blended her
were taken into refugee camps, meant to
passionate response to the violent
shelter and look after them.
political reality, with a philosophical
approach. Simplicity is her mantra, an
The self-taught artist Arpana
account of what happened carries a
Caur, born in Delhi in 1954, has portrayed
most effective message.
her work of art inspired by sorrow and
the trauma of 1984 and the catharsis
The series begins with images
that followed set the canvas. Today
of tortured bodies, heaps of corpses

65
 Beware!
You are Being
Greenwashed!

Fast fashion labels guilty of greenwashing

In recent times, the talk of sustainability and ethical fashion has garnered a
lot of media and consumer interest around the world. Numerous fast fashion
labels whose fundamental business model goes against the idea of sustainable
production, are now making “green” claims to lure responsible consumers, thereby
giving impetus to a trend called greenwashing.

W O R D S A N D A R T W O R K K ARISHMA SEHGAL
 “100% organic cotton. Manufactured solely
using renewable energy generated from wind and
solar power.” — so reads the tag on a T-shirt from
the multinational Swedish clothing retailer, H&M’s
‘Conscious’ collection. Launched in the year 2011, H&M
Conscious is an initiative by the brand to mitigate
the ecological damage it causes, and to encourage
sustainable consumption among its buyers by offering
them a discount of 15% for handing in their old clothes
that it would later use to recycle. In theory, this seems like
a noble idea, but in reality, it is a possible greenwashing
tactic — brainwashing consumers to believe that the
brand is a lot more eco-friendly and socially-responsible
than it actually is.
An article published in the Guardian in April
2016, reported concerns around H&M’s Recycling Week.
It noted that the brand would take about 12 years to
utilise 1,000 tons of recycled fashion waste — the same
amount of clothes it perhaps produces in 48 hours. The
article further went on to add that the brand offering
discounts to customers for bringing their old clothing
was a tactic to drive more purchases.
It’s no secret that H&M is among the top league
of the world biggest fast fashion brands, pitted against
the likes of Zara and Forever 21. According to its 2016
annual report, the brand generated upwards of 22 billion
USD in global sales. Large scale production volumes
of low-cost clothing consumes monstrous amounts of
resources and contributes to the environmental footprint
considerably. H&M’s efforts in the “sustainability”
direction, therefore, seem highly contradictory to its very
being.
While such is the case with H&M, its other fast
fashion brethren are also attempting to tread the green
route. Earlier this year, Mango launched its ‘Committed
Collection’. The collection, comprising of 45 pieces (25 for
women and 20 for men) claims to be 100% sustainable.
It’s important to note that Mango, a brand whose DNA is
similar to the Zaras and the H&Ms of the world, impacts
more than just the environment. The production for
these brands, more often than not, happens in countries
where the labour is cheap and working conditions, highly
poor. In 2013, 1,134 garment workers died in the collapse
of a factory building, Rana Plaza, situated in a suburb
outside Dhaka, Bangladesh. Mango, along with many
other popular fast fashion brands like United Colors of
Benetton, Zara, Walmart, C&A, Carrefor, Joe Fresh, etc
were producing in the factory, but Mango, was amongst
the first brands to deny that it had any association with
the factory. This is probably because Mango did not place
a direct order with the factory but subcontracted it to a
supplier. Basically, Mango had no idea where its clothes
were being made, let alone being aware of the awful
conditions in which the workers were making them.
67
Tips to make sustainable
fashion choices
Shop Mindfully - Remember, quality > quantity.
Invest in organic fabrics, statement pieces, and stick
to a capsule wardrobe.
Upcycle and Donate - Instead of trashing a
garments you’re bored of, upcycle them to create
something new. Even better, donate them.
Opt for Brands That Maintain Transparency -
Brands that are open about the origin of their
garments, their production practices and the labour
are the ones you should consider.
Last year, a BBC Panorama released a
documentary titled Undercover: The Refugees Who
Make Our Clothes. The investigation found Syrian
refugee children and adults making clothes for popular
high street labels, Marks and Spencer, ASOS and
Next in Turkish sweatshops. It also reported that in a
factory, Syrian refugees were working 12-hour shifts,
distressing jeans for Mango and Zara. According to the
documentary, the refugees were paid close to a pound
an hour — a renumeration well below the Turkish
minimum wage standard.
Forever 21, a favourite amongst fashionable
shoppers on a budget, has also been guilty of
greenwashing. In 2015, the fast-fashion giant, through a
press release, proudly announced that its headquarters
in the Lincoln Heights neighbourhood of Los Angeles
had the largest single-rooftop solar-power system in
Los Angeles County. Mind you, this is the same brand
that mass-produces clothing majorly using polyester,
in overseas factories that aren’t solar powered. These
activities contribute to the carbon footprint to such
a large extent, that the brand boasting about its
solar-powered centre seems no more than a gimmick to
make headlines and appear environmentally responsible.
Above are just few among the many examples
of how the fast fashion labels overplay their “green
endeavours” in the hope of assuaging their wrongdoings
and irresponsible practices. Sure, it would be unfair not
to acknowledge some of the genuinely good work that
some of these brands are aiming to do in this direction,
but given the way their business model is built, even the
best of their efforts can create only a mere ripple in a sea
of mess that they have created. q
 LIFESTYLE
Marriage In the
Age Of Tinder
With the digitalised age dominating the society, is there really hope for successful
marriages in the 21st century ?
W O R D S
In marriage there is one question which is asked by
most of the people “Love marriage or Arrange?” Marriage is one
of the important part of anyone’s life but the way now people
choose their partner has changed. Earlier parents used to find
the partner for their children through word of mouth, marriage
bureaus or through newspaper classified section. Most of the
marriages were arranged. Children were not allowed to come
into a relationship before marriage. Unlike those days, today
people are finding their partners themselves. They are not
relying on the choices of their parents. They take their own
time in taking right decision. In today’s generation, youngsters
are not taking relationship seriously. They find hard to commit
themselves and are incline more towards hook ups. MBA
S O U R C E - E M I L Y W R E N P H O T O G R A P H Y
PARIDHI GARG
student, Stuti Mahajan said “I think the reason people
don’t like to commit themselves in a relationship is the loss
of trust in each other. People have become emotionless,
selfish and self obsessed. Also the various mediums to
communicate have given the opportunity to people to
deceive and manipulate other.”
With exposure
to better lifestyle, income and internet, many websites
are attracting youngsters to search for their partners
online. These websites are giving them opportunity to
find partner from the large pool of people. Tinder, Happn,
Bharat matrimony, Shadi.com are name of some of the
websites and apps. When a person decides to date online,
68
they know clearly what they want. Bharat matrimony, Shadi.com
are the websites which is made for the people who are finding
partners for marriage but in apps like Tinder, Happn, Okcupid
“I think the reason people
people generally register themselves with the mindset of casual
don’t like to commit themselves in
dating.
a relationship is the loss of trust in
In 1990s when the matrimonial website first came to
each other. People have become
action in India, the focus was inclined towards parents as at that
emotionless, selfish and self
time parents were responsible for finding match for their son or
obsessed. Also the various mediums
daughter. During that time parents were somewhat not sure and
to communicate have given the
were conscious before uploading pictures. But slowly with time
opportunity to people to deceive
it gain trust and matrimonial sites become successful in being
and manipulate other.” says Stuti
match maker for marriages.
Mahajan, MBA student.
With the passing of time these sites have
redesigned themselves for the use of the actual person finding
partner instead of their parent. Also dating sites start getting
attention by the youngsters as they want to choose their
“I met a guy on Twitter. We were in relationship for almost two
partner themselves and want to know the person before getting
year and now we are deciding to get married.” She also added
married. It was a need for matrimonial site to change themselves
“Online dating through social media doesn’t score very good
according to the need of progressive audience. Earlier the
when it comes to marriage. But I was lucky to find one.” Social
advertisement of these websites was targeted towards parents.
media and dating apps very much cater with people who find
It was used to persuade them to get their children registered and
hard to commit themselves in a relationship. I also think that with
find a perfect match. But today advertisement focus has been
the advancement of everything, the mindset of people has been
shifted to children. Now the youngsters want to choose their
changed. Now a day’s people are not liking the idea of getting
match on their own. These websites are giving them opportunity
married rather they prefer to be in a live-in-relationship. But there
in finding the right one according to their likes or dislikes. These
are lucky one like Somya who find their love on
website are providing them option of finding
social media.
their partner in their caste or religion as this
It is very obvious that in India the
is one of the important consideration while
matrimonial sites gain much more popularity
match making. Other services like matching
than dating sites. It might be because of the
kundli, horoscope, marriage gifts, catering
traditions and culture India has. A housewife,
etc is also provided by some. Parents now
Anita Chauhan said “We are a big joint family
are not necessarily active in match making
and all the marriages of children in our family
process through online medium; of course in
are through Shadi.com and each marriage is
India the approval of them is very important.
very successful.” She added “I think it’s a very
The audience for these websites is changing
good medium as you can select from various
every day. The change is clearly visible in
choices. I always suggest everyone now to
their marketing strategies. In 2016, the
find partner through this site as it is very
advertisement by Jeevansathi.com encouraged
convenient”.
women to find their partner online. In 2013 ,
Parents are now becoming liberal
Bharat matrimony TV advertisement shows
and open minded but of course in India there is
the husband supporting his wife decision of
a need of taking approval from parents before
doing a job by going against his parents. These
marriage. As in India there is a phrase “India
websites are also taking a stand for changing
mai shadi do gharo kae beech mae hoti hai.”
the society and hence creating a good image of
But there is a visible difference in the concept
their brand.
of marriage. People are communicating and
With access to internet in every hand
finding their perfect match through social media sites, dating
through mobile phones not only matrimonial sites are helping in
apps and matrimonial sites. They have become more accepting,
match making, the dating apps like Tinder, okcupid etc and social
care free and independent. q
media sites like twitter and facebook are also helping people to
find their perfect match. Somya, Food technology student said

69
LIFESTYLE

Meet
The Sheroes
Chaav foundation helps acid attack survivors rebuild their life and supports them to
gain justice in a fight against their attackers

W O R D S P A R I D H I G A R G

P H O T O G R A P H Y P A R I D H I G A R G

70
 Physical beauty is from my family I was not able to in 2013 still hasn’t got justice for it.
subconsciously or consciously an take treatment properly.” She added, Her attacker was no other that her
important point to judge others. “Once I heard that there is a state high school teacher who was twice
Most of the people want to have level cricket match happening in the her age and was forcing her to get
fair child or fair spouse. But people city for blind student participants. I married to him. She said,” He was
don’t realise that more than outer, got courage after that and asked my twice my age and was forcing and
inner beauty is important. A strong cousin to find some NGO or school threatening me to marry me but I
and caring soul is far better than a for blind students where I can take was stubborn on my decision.” She
beautiful body. Women at Sheroes admission to become something added,” I took admission in college
campaign are the live examples to in life. That’s how I came to know and was shifted to another place but
prove this. about this place and joined Chaav once when I came back to my house
Sheroes campaign is an foundation.” I was surprised to see he attacked me. I had given so many
initiative of Chaav foundation to help how much enthusiasm Rani has statements in the court but still I
acid attack survivors. The women to be successful in life. Even after haven’t got the justice I deserve.”
here called themselves fighters as burning 80% of her body and losing There are so many cases
after losing their appearance and her eye sight she didn’t give up. not only acid but like rape, Domestic
self esteem by some members of Chaav foundation is helping her in violence etc. for which justice is
the society; they are taking courage regaining her eye sight by providing provided after years. On asking what
to take a stand for themselves and funding for her operation and now Rani thinks is the reason for myriad
becoming self reliant. The campaign she has gained 20% visibility a while attacks on women she said, “People
name is itself very unique as it says back. say these attacks are the result of
“She + Heroes” which signifies This brutal incident foreign culture and women related
that these women are heroes for happened to her nine years back. crimes did not happen in earlier days
themselves, they don’t need any Her attacker who was an Army but that’s not entirely true. In older
other person to be. This campaign officer got arrested on 24th days also, these kind of incidents
has helped many acid victims in November 2017. She finally got used to happen but people used
carving their lives and career. justice but the time she waited to to hide or stay in isolation as they
Rani (actual name, get him arrested clearly shows the were not aware and were scared of
Pramdin Rahul) who works in weak foundation the society’s
management department at of our judicial o p i n i o n
“Law is being made
Sheroes refuses to call herself a system. Her on their
victim instead she would prefer to attacker who but there is no follow app earance.
be called a fighter. She basically is was an army Now the
up of the law in our
from Orissa and is 25 yrs old. officer attacked p e o p l e
On 5 January 2016, she her just because country. We can ban are taking
joined this campaign and started she asked him a stand
the acid from selling
working at Sheroes hangout café to wait six years against it.”
in Lucknow. Because of excellence if he wants to but unless and until She added,
in her work she was shifted to get married to “Law is being
thinking doesn’t
management department and her as she was made but
is currently getting trained for just 16 years old change we can’t do there is no
director’s desk. Rani said, “I always at that time. follow up of
anything”, says Rani
wanted to be independent and Another survivor the law in
self reliant. After the attack on 18 Nirupama Kalit who calls herself a our country.
April 2009, I was completely blind who belongs We can ban
fighter not a victim.
and was on bed for 5 years till 2014. to Assam faced the acid
Because of no financial support an acid attack from selling

71
 Nirupama Kalit who joined the foundation a few
but unless and until thinking doesn’t change we can’t do
months back is full of life and is very energetic. She is very
anything.”
talented, she loves to sing and loves photography. Chaav
On one side where the society neglects
foundation is helping her in convincing her father to allow
them, Chaav foundation is helping them to regain their
her to make a career. She has undergone an ear operation
confidence. Like Rani they have helped numerous number
recently which she lost after her acid attack and is in Delhi
of survivors in making up their career. Sheroes hangout café
for three months for the same. Nirupama said, “I am
has been opened in Agra and Lucknow which is specifically
interested in photography, if I get the camera I will not stop
run by acid attack survivors. Reshma
clicking photographs (laughs). I also
Qureshi who has walked the ramp “We will die but will not
want to learn singing and will learn
in New York Fashion Week in 2016 is
leave Chaav foundation. how to play guitar for sure.”
also a member of Chaav foundation.
Alok Dixit and Ashish
They also arrange fashion shows in All of us at Chaav
Shukla, the founder and director of
Orissa and other parts where they
foundation are fighting Chaav foundation respectively are
encourage the acid attack survivors
doing an amazing job by helping
to walk the ramp and be confident for all the survivors of acid
the acid attack survivors. They are
of their scars. They also help them
attacks “ supporting the people who are
to pursue their education and make
often neglected by the society. They
them learn stitching, computers etc. Chaav foundation
are achieving their goals by taking steady steps. Whole
also plans to open a boutique for the survivor name Rupa.
foundation is a big family where everyone adores and helps
On asking about that Rani said,” She loves to stitch but she
each other out. Rani said,” We will die but will not leave
never went to school. To become a fashion designer is not
Chaav foundation. All of us at Chaav foundation are fighting
easy and one needs skills along with education because of
for all the survivors of acid attacks and want them to be
which she didn’t take the courage to take it forward. But
confident, self reliant and to be her own hero.” q
we are planning if someone is interested we will be more
than happy in making her dream come true.”

Acid attack survivors, Nirupama (left) and Rani (right) at Chanv Foundation
 FASHION

Tell us about your

Designer and trend forecaster, Geraldine Wharry, at her studio in London background and how you came to
do what you do today. What drove
you to go independent?
I studied textile design in
Paris - I am originally from France. I
then went to Parsons, New York, for
a year on scholarship, where I did a
graduate program in Fashion Design
on realising that I actually wanted
to make clothes. After I graduated
in 1999, I got my first job as a fashion
design assistant. I then evolved in
street wear labels, originally in New
York, and then in Los Angeles, where
I worked for brands like RipCurl and
several other denim brands. During
my stay in America, I was always
designing - either leading a design
team as senior designer or as a design
director.

I left America in 2010 and

moved to London, partly because
I wanted to be closer to my family
and partly because I wanted a
change. Although I still wanted to
work in fashion, I also wanted to
try something different, which is
when the opportunity to work in

Reimagining
trend forecasting at WGSN came
up. I worked with them for two years
full-time and then for over a year as a
consultant.

the future things

I then moved on to do
independently
gave me more freedom to mould my
because it

of trend
career path. While I enjoyed trend
forecasting, I really missed designing
as well, which I got to do very little of
in WGSN. For now, my consultancy

forecasting
is based on trend forecasting, but I
do design my own collection as well.
The artwork and design aspects of my
job are more independent, but trend
forecasting constitutes the bulk of my
business.

What are the nitty gritties

UK-based fashion designer and trend forecaster, Geraldine
Wharry, talks to PLUCK about the changing dynamics of the
industry with its upsides and downsides.
W O R D S K A R I S H M A
that constitute the job of a trend
forecaster? How do you go about
predicting trends for a season and
what are your key reference points?
S E H G A L
First and foremost, you have
to understand your context - whether

74
you’re trying to predict a seasonal
trend, a macro trend, a micro trend
or a catwalk trend. What remains
constant in the job of a fashion
forecaster, however, is the need to
constantly research and
information from both,
and secondary sources. It involves
going to exhibitions, trade shows,
conferences, reading a lot of articles,
which, thanks to the internet boom,
has really transformed this industry.
We now have easier access to quality
information by the way of blogs,
Instagram. etc. In the process of your
research, you start to notice patterns
of behaviour that are emerging.
As a trend forecaster, while
it is important to rely on factual
knowledge, it is equally important to
trust your intuition.
In a creative
most of what designers create is
instinctive and is driven by personal
inspiration. That being the case,
to what extent do trend forecasts
drive designers’ creativity?
Most design companies
don’t have the time to research, so
they rely on trend forecasters to do
that bit of work for them. It assures
them that they have their finger
on the pulse. While some design
houses have an internal trend team
responsible for researching
chalking out trends, in big design
houses that have a lot of financial
output at stake with each collection,
and where every design is a strategic
decision, usually a trend forecasting
agency is what gives
confidence to go ahead with their
choices.
What are the
similarities and differences in the
two hats that you wear of a designer
and a trend forecaster?
The key difference between
my role as a designer and a trend
forecaster is that as a designer I
am using my hands to make - it
is a creative process. My work as a
forecaster, on the contrary, is more
analytical. I realise that being involved
in both of these roles is what drives
my energies. While I thoroughly
enjoy the research process, I am not
absorb happy doing just that all the time. I
primary constantly feel the need to create as
well.
The similarity between the
two roles, I would say, is the curiosity
and the will to be in the know of
what’s going on.
“I feel there’s
a real crisis of
creativity in
fashion right now.
There are often
space,
these phrases
like “future proof”
thrown around
- it’s all very
anxious.”
In your experience of
being associated with the fashion
industry for more than a decade
and a half, what is the most
inspiring change you’ve seen and
what aspects of the industry do
and
you feel still need improvement?
I think one of the most
inspiring changes in the industry in
the recent past is that it has started
to become more inclusive. There
are changing gender perceptions
them
and greater diversity, but
there’s still a lot of work needed
within that. Also, there’s increasing
awareness and embracement of
key
sustainability, which also has a lot of
room for progress.
Other than that,
there’s a real crisis of creativity in
fashion right now. There are often
these phrases like “future proof”
thrown around - it’s all very anxious.
75
Brands are constantly chasing their
consumers and looking at what
everyone else is doing. I know this
sounds like a bit of a paradox coming
from a trend forecaster, but maybe
trend forecasting needs to change
as well. I feel it should be more
connected with the creative side of
fashion and less with reporting. Right
now, there is this sort of stagnancy
that has come in fashion trend
forecasting wherein you see similar
themes being reinterpreted and it’s
causing a type of sameness. Fashion
trend forecasting needs a little bit of
soul searching, I believe.
Which brings me to my
next question. In recent times,
there has been a lot of talk about
inclusivity and diversity in fashion.
Do you think this positive change
is here to stay or is it like other
fleeting trends that may die down
in the years to come?
Well, yes. I think it’s here
to stay. I can’t imagine it going away
because it’s also something that the
new generation is rallying for. Also,
these days, everyone is exposed
through social media for their bad
behaviour - whether it be sexual
misconduct or bad environmental
practices. It makes brands a lot more
conscious about the choices they
make.
Tell us about the projects
you are currently working on?
I just finished publishing
my guide a month ago which I am
very excited about. Apart from that,
I have been lecturing, and I am
yes,
also working in collaboration with a
charity called ‘Just Dig It’ that works
towards reforestation in Africa. I am
designing art for them and helping
them spread their message.
What’s most exciting for
I feel
me right now, besides my regular
client work is that I am taking the
end of 2017 and the beginning of 2018
to refocus my proposition on trend
forecasting for the greater good. I
am aiming to help brands connect with their
true meaning rather than going after what
everyone else is doing, while also thinking
about sustainability and values.

What is your favourite Spring/

Summer 18’ trend and which designers
shows did you like best?
I really like “Faux Real” trend where
garments are flattened and pasted. It is
inspired by surrealism and a sense of the
absurd. My favourite shows for Spring/Summer
18’ that saw a lot of this trend were Parsons
MFA Spring 2018 Ready-to-Wear Collection and
Liselore Frowijn S/S 2018, which was the most
refreshing show I had seen in a while. q

“For Spring/
Summer 2018, I
really like the “Faux
Real” trend where
garments are
flattened and pasted.”

Parsons MFA Spring 2018 RTW

Source: Vogue.com

Suggested Readings on Trend Forecasting by

Geraldine Wharry
Books:
l Fashion Forecasting, Trend Hunting and Gathering by
Geraldine Wharry.
l Trend Forecaster’s Handbook by Martin Raymond
l Fashion Trend Forecasting by Gwyneth Holland and
Rae Jones
l How to Have Great Ideas: A Guide to Creative Thinking
by John Indgledew

Articles:
l The Truth About Trends: What Some Trendspotters
are Selling - Forbes
l What Next? How Future Gazing Became Big Business
- The Guardian
l Trend Forecasting is Becoming Less Art More Science
Liselore Frowjin S/S 18 - Business of Fashion
Source: Vogue.com
l The Design Process: What is the Double Diamond? -
The Design Council, UK
ENTERTAINMENT

Beyond the
Mainstream
The arrival of streaming giants, Netflix and Amazon Prime Video,
in the Indian market, last year, turned out to be great news —
not only for viewers looking for quality video content but also
for Indie filmmakers who have to compete with commercial
big-budget films.

W O R D S K A R I S H M A S E H G A L

78
 I
ndependent filmmakers the indies. crowdfunding has equally helped
in India don’t have it easy. Ad-Supported VOD (AVOD) newbies like Pawan Kumar who
We are a country where platforms like YouTube that offer used crowdfunding to finance his
majority of the audience still looks at video content free of charge to the award-winning 2013 Kannada sci-fi
cinema as a medium synonymous to audience (but with ads) have been drama named ‘Lucia’.
celebrity culture. Investors are usually around for over a decade. The recent This method of funding,
wary of putting their money into emergence of Transactional VOD along with the relative ease of
such projects that have little chances (TVOD) platforms — where the digital distribution can provide a
of breaking even, let alone earning audience pays for individual videos, much- needed fillip to independent
profits. Invariably, indie filmmakers like TVF InBox Office,Vimeo, iTunes filmmakers apprehensive to enter the
have to bear the brunt of limitations and Google Play, and Subscription moviemaking rat-race.
in financing, production, scope, and VOD (SVOD) platforms like Netflix
distribution. More often than not, the and Amazon Prime Video, that Digital Show-Stealers
screening of such films is restricted require the audience to pay a monthly Netflix’s first Indian original
to film festivals. Even if these films subscription fee to access video was a sex-comedy called ‘Brahman
do manage getting theatrical content, is what indie filmmakers are Naman’ directed by Qaushiq
releases, after receiving tremendous increasingly cashing on. Mukherjee, a.k.a. Q.The company
flak from the Central Board of Film had bought worldwide SVOD rights
Certification, they rarely catch the Although for indie to the film at the Sundance Film
attention of the quintessential filmmakers wanting to release their Festival, last year. The film never had a
moviegoer, perhaps due to their films digitally, especially on SVOD theatrical release and was premiered
offbeat star cast, small marketing platforms, the help of aggregators exclusively on Netflix on July 7, 2016,
budgets, and limited releases. may be required to prepare a worldwide.
pitch and strike a deal with a given Earlier this year, Amazon
Where most mainstream platform. Alternatively, for filmmakers Prime Video partnered with C
filmmakers in India continue to opt who wish to do away with middlemen International Sales, a subsidiary of
for formulaic storytelling — the tried completely, there are platforms like Cinestaan Film Company for the
and tested route, indie filmmakers Distrify that allow direct distribution unlimited streaming of ‘Dev Bhoomi’
who delve into unconventional of content to audiences, usually on a and Konkona Sen Sharma’s directorial
moviemaking styles and subjects are TVOD basis.creative process. debut, ‘A Death in the Gunj’. The
increasingly garnering eyeballs from films were among the list of Toronto
a more evolved audience longing to People’s Participation International Film Festival’s official
see novel and meaningful content. In the digital age, selection of Indian films last year.
That said, for indie films, the problem crowdfunding is turning out to be an Additionally,Amazon PrimeVideo
of reaching out to a widespread effective strategy for indie filmmakers also bagged the exclusive streaming
audience continues to loom large. to raise funds for their projects. rights to ‘The Hungry’, an international
Enter SVOD (subscription video-on- Recently, renowned actor-director co-production between Cinestaan
demand) biggies like Netflix and and a popular face in the Indian and Film London, and recently,
Amazon Prime Video that made parallel cinema circuit, Rajat Alankrita Srivastava’s ‘Lipstick Under
their debut in the Indian market Kapoor, known for creating critical- My Burkha’. The film that opened
last year, in an attempt to offer the ly-acclaimed films such as Aankhon the recently-concluded Indian Film
discerning viewer quality content, and Dekhi, announced a partnership Festival of Melbourne (IFFM) 2017, ran
independent filmmakers, a platform with Crowdera, a US-headquar- into quite a trouble with the Censor
to showcase their work. tered crowdfunding platform, in an Board before it could get its theatrical
attempt to raise Rs. 2.5 crore for his release in July.
The VOD Distribution Route upcoming film, RK/R Kay. “I have Other critically-acclaimed
Until a few years ago, indie been trying to raise money through indie films like ‘Masaan’, ‘M Cream’
filmmakers looked at film festivals conventional sources for the last and ’Chauranga’ (all available for
as the only outlet to pitch content three years, and that has not worked. streaming on Netflix), despite having
to sales agents and distribution But that does not mean that I won’t reached the silver screens, generated
companies who, they’d hope, would make a film. I will, only the funds will no more than a ripple of interest
help their films eventually get not be raised through conventional amongst the average moviegoers.
theatrical and DVD releases. The rise means.”, Kapoor said in his campaign The arrival of Netflix and Amazon
of VOD platforms in the recent past statement. Prime Video offers a glimmer of hope
has changed the dynamics of film While Kapoor is still a to makers of Indian indies and film
distribution, particularly in favour of well-known figure in the fraternity, connoisseurs alike. q

79
 ENTERTAINMENT
From North
Westeros to North
India
Thousands of miles and fictional kingdoms away from the Wall, in the very real realm
of Noida, we take a tour of RS Windlass and sons warehouse , company that provides
props and licensed merchandise for major Hollywood productions.
On a hot , sticky day, Jon Snow’s
big, heavy cape with fur lining is a reminder
of how far North Westeros is from India.
The fabric of his cape is thick—so thick in
fact, that it could be used to pitch a tent on
a campsite. It is made out of cotton duck,
a heavy, tightly woven canvas fabric. Ned
Stark’s costume hangs next to Jon Snow’s
on a garment rack in a well-lit room—the
brown leather peascod paired with a vest, a
quilted wool gambeson and an inner shirt,
is equally far from suitable for the Indian
summer. We are in a factory in Noida, an
industrial city that lies on the outer edges
of Delhi, discovering our very own cosplay
fantasyland.
Rashi Goil is a self-assured
young woman of 23 who is a partner in
her family business, RS Windlass & Sons,
a company that provides props and
licensed merchandise for major Hollywood
productions including Game of Thrones.
She sits across a wide, long table in a room
that doubles as showroom and warehouse,
and tells the story of how the connection
with the world’s biggest television show was
forged. Replicas of Longclaw (Jon Snow’s
W O R D S J A S L E E N A R O R A
sword) and Ice (Ned Stark’s sword) lie on the
table between us. They seem as if they have
been carved from real Valyrian steel, till she
invites me to touch them and my fingers sink
into soft latex foam. The sword is a licensed
replica used for LARPing (Live Action Role
Play). “You cannot tell the difference from a
distance,” she says with a smile.
Windlass group was established in
1943 in Dehradun, a small town in the foothills
of the Himalayas, by Goil’s great-grand-
father, the family patriarch, Ved Prakash
Windlass. He started Windlass Steelcrafts to
supply khukris (a type of machete used by
the Nepalese people) to the British Indian
Army in the second world war. The company
is now one of the largest manufacturers of
swords, shields, armor, knives, and bayonets,
supplying to major militaries across the world
and movie and television productions.
In 1996, the family established a
business to cater to the period clothing and
apparel market by acquiring two American
companies, the Atlanta Cutlery Corporation
and Museum Replicas Ltd in Georgia. It’s
the job of these two corporations to source
80
business, while the manufacturing takes
place in India. For Game of Thrones, Pradeep
Windlass, who handles the business in
America, visited the sets in Ireland to meet
with costume designer Michele Clapton and
armor designer Augusto Grassi and take a
close look at the show’s props and costumes.
The replicas created in Noida have to be as
accurate as possible, using the same fabrics
and materials with the same level of detailing.
Windlass has supplied set props
to major productions like Batman Begins,
Chronicles of Narnia, Indiana Jones, Pirates
of the Caribbean, The Tudors, Skyfall, The
Walking Dead, as well as armor and helmets
for early seasons of Game of Thrones, and
merchandising associations with films like
300, Assassin’s Creed, Gone With The Wind,
Kingdom of Heaven, Harry Potter, Lord of the
Rings, The Mummy Returns, Troy, and more.
But it’s the work they’ve done with Game of
Thrones that made them famous in India.
The group maintains a low profile
in India, their business devoted entirely to
the American and European market. “When I
was growing up and used to visit the factory,

The Hollywood
merchandise section has
Jedi costumes from Star
Wars, a lush green gown
exactly like the one worn
by Vivien Leigh in Gone
With the Wind, and the
Harry Potter collection.
Rashi Goil, partner, Windlass and Sons at the factory
I would always wonder, ‘Who buys these
elaborate costumes and accessories?’” says
Goil. The buyers are a dedicated group of
people around the world, mostly collectors,
enthusiasts, and cosplayers.
As Goil invites me to walk around
the showroom, all I see is a wonderland of
costumes. Capes and robes, jerkins and
tabards, skirts and kilts, chemises and
corsets, dresses and gowns, in fabulously
opulent textiles like chenille, velvet, satin
and silk, are all crammed in the period
clothing rack. Most of these are
Renaissance fairs in Europe and the United
States. The Hollywood merchandise section
A worker at Windlass and Sons
has Jedi costumes from Star Wars, a lush the leather strings on Ned Stark’s costume;
green gown exactly like the one worn by work that women in the factory have
Vivien Leigh in Gone With the Wind, and specialized in. “All the intricate handwork is
the Harry Potter collection, their highest done by women,” says Sayal.
selling franchise—the black Gryffindor robe
Goil says her job is less glamorous
with an embroidered house crest, Albus
than it appears. “My friends envy me for the
Dumbledore’s long grey robe that matched
work I do, that I spend my day immersed in
his beard, and a mannequin dressed
this fantasy world. But there is hard work
in Hermione’s purple Yule Ball gown in
here. I have to think of things like where in
cascading silk and chiffon.
India will I get the pearl buttons I need in
We take a tour of the workshop the exact shade I need them in?”
where nearly 150 workers are busily As Goil hurries off for a meeting,
for cutting, stitching, embroidering, and she confesses to missing the last season of
putting finishing touches to costumes. Her Game of Thrones. “I haven’t found time,” she
merchandise manager, Jaya Sayal, points to says with a rueful smile. “But I’ve recorded
all of it.” q
81
 LIFESTYLE

The
Fruitful
Millionaire
Vaed Prakash, a mere
fruit seller in Haridwar
who earns 25000 per
day, astonishingly large
amount for fruit seller
talks to PLUCK about his
journey.
Vaed Prakash Chabra at his fruit shop

W O R D S / P H O T O G R A P H Y

P A R I D H I G A R G

In this world full of people running for good, his children a life of which he dreamt of. He the customers, I never give any stale fruit to
respectable high paid jobs; there are people has three children, two boys and one girl. His them and always behave in friendly manner.”
who work on the streets selling fruits, chai, younger son, Aakash is studying in one of He further added “I have very loyal customer
cholle bhature or chaat etc just to make the most prestigious schools in Haridwar. base. People give me a call and ask me to
their living. We always have a mindset that His other son, Ansh has passed out from the deliver order to their home. They trust me that
the people who work on stalls or run small same school as well. Vaed Prakash said “I got I will always give them best quality.”
businesses do not earn much. They face lots Ansh admitted in one He has opened
of hardships to earn their living and in most of the top colleges in one more shop in another
of the cases it’s true but in some cases it’s not. Dehradun but he is not area of the city which is
interested in studying
“I believe in making
A fruit managed by his brother.
because of which he
relationships with the
seller in Haridwar who runs his shop in the All the expenses are paid
left the college. My
customers, I never give
area called Kankhal earns huge only by selling by income earned by
daughter (Priya) is
any stale fruit to them
fruits which is not expected by a normal these two shops. He said
very intelligent. She
and always behave in
person. He earns 25000 per day by selling “Approximately 100 to 150
is studying BBA. I
friendly manner.” - Vaed
fruits. Vaed Prakash Chabra belongs from customers come daily on
want her to study and
Prakash.
a small town called Shamli in Muzafnagar. each shop”
His father had a sweet shop there only become successful” Today Ved Prakash
but in 1993 he with his wife and children People owns a house, his shop
shifted to Haridwar in hope of better life and don’t expect a fruit seller to earn that much. I and a property which he recently purchased.
opportunities. myself was shocked when I heard about the From the son of the man running small sweet
Vaed Prakash Chabra said school his children go to as I too have studied shop to becoming a fruit seller and fulfilling
“I started selling fruits in Shamli 43 yrs ago from the same school. The college in which he his dream of giving his children a life that he
but with hope of getting better facilities and got his children admitted is very renowned. dreamt of, he has come a long way. q
giving better life to my children I shifted to There are many fruit sellers in the same area
Haridwar. Vaed Prakash Chabra’s lifelong but no one is famous and earning that much.
dream has come true as he is able to give He said “I believe in making relationships with

82
84
85
 The A-Z of the year
gone by
A B
A @alealimay

F I R ST F E M A L E COL L A BOR ATOR W IT H A I R JOR DA NS

D O C U M E N T A R Y S H O W C A S E D A T T R I B E C A F I L M F E S T I VA L

C D
A F F O R D A B L E F R E N C H B R A N D T O L O O K O U T

F O R

E
DI S N E Y ’ S F I R ST FA SH ION DE SIGN CH A L L E NGE , W E B SE R I E S

E T I E N N E D E R O E U X , F R E N C H D E S IG N E R , B A S E D I N PA R I S

W HO DE BUT E D AT N Y F W

I M PECC A BLY M A DE COOL CLOT H E S T H AT A R E PR AC T IC A L ,

COOL, WEARABLE AND STYLISH.

86
F FISHNETS AND RAINBOWS G GINGERNUTZ

KOSOVO’ S

F I R ST FA SH ION

BLOGGER

BR I T I SH FA SH ION JOU R NA L I ST ’ S BOOK ON

I
GR ACE CODDI NGTON

H H O LY S H I T, I T ’ S M E

A F T E R S P E N D I N G 4 0 Y E A R S A T B E R G D O F F
A W E B-SE R I E S GOI NG V I R A L ON YOUT U BE , HU MOU ROUS
G O O D M A N , B E T T Y H A L B R E I C H W R I T E S A B O U T
TA K E ON WOM E N ’ S FA SH ION
H E R F A S H I O N A B L E L I F E

J K
KHAKHI
WA I T Y O U N E E D T H I S . C O M I S A F U R N I T U R E A N D I N T E R I O R

BLOG BY JA N E L L E M A R I E L LOY D
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M
LOU IS V U IT TON I N COLL A BOR AT ION W IT H SU PR E ME

MARIO TESTINO:

UNDRESSED IS A

PHOTO-SERIES BY THE

ACE PHOTOGR APHER

N
NO. 21 IS AN ONLINE FRENCH

LUXURY SHOPPING WEBSITE FOR

WOMEN

O
A N O N L I N E B L O G BY A PA S S IO N AT E GE R M A N T E E N W HO ’ S S T U DY I N G I N N E W YOR K

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A N ON L I N E DE ST I NAT ION FOR A LL LU X U RY R EQU I R E ME NTS
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SCOT T SCHU M A N’S L AT E ST PHOTO BOOK

U N D E R A R MO U R’ S L AT E S T

T E C H I N V O VA T I O N F O R T H E

PRO AT HLET E S

V I BR AT I NG J E A NS A R E T HE N E W M I LLE N I A L T R E N D,

W IT H GPS I NSTA LLE D I N IT

 X

W WA I T: T H E P RO T E C T I V E A I R S C A R F S

MOV I E S TA R R I N G D E E P I K A PA D U KO N E A N D V I N DI E S E L

Y
Y3 , T H E C OL L A B BE T W E E N A DI DA S A N D YOH J I YA M A MOTO

T H E Z O O K E E P E R’ S W I F E I S A D R A M A S E T I N 1 9 3 9 ,

Z
POLAND.
91
 ART & CULTURE

Artwork by graphic designer, Priyanka Paul

Source: Instagram

adornments, she illustrates them as

liberated figures who represent the power
in expressing versatility.

@artwhoring

Sonaksha Iyengar
Majority of people hold negative attitudes
and  stereotypes towards people with
mental illness. Describing what it’s like
to live with mental illness can be hard, so
instead,  Sonaksha Iyengar  is illustrating
it. The 22-year-old is trying to get people
talking about mental illness, one letter of
the alphabet at a time. Her illustrations,
posted under the hashtag  #atozofmen-
talhealth, take on a variety of mental
illnesses, like anxiety, bipolar disorder,
eating disorders, narcolepsy and more. \

The
As part of her process, Iyengar, who lives
with a mental illness herself, researches
each condition – visiting forums and
other discussion boards to identify myths

Power of the
and see what aspects of each condition
people have a hard time explaining.
@sonaksha

Digifeminists
Namaah Kumar
Kumar’s work is gutsy and her work
reflects the current status quo through
vivid illustrations that bring things like
feminism, gender equality and sexuality
into the limelight. A large part of her
work as an illustratorfocuses on the
female form. The art depicts through
her own learning and unlearning of the
Bold hues, firm strokes, quirky designs and a powerful relationship with her body, gender, and
feminist statement — this is what catches the eye of the sexuality.
India’s contemporary women illustrators. @namaahk

W O R D S N O O R S E T H I Kavita Singh Kale

and how it can break barriers, change People around - strangers, acquaintance,
Art, has always been one of the most
pre-conceived notions and bring about family and friends are the building blocks
widely used mediums for expressing
great changes.  The following women for her art work. She builds stories around
the plight of women in India. And
are right there in the forefront of this individuals by closely observing them
women artists, in particular, have
new movement. and creating microcosmic environment
emphasized gender issues and
of minimal- essentials. Through her art
discrimination in the form of paintings,
she questions issues related to common
sculptures, and installations since Priyanka Paul
people living in the metro cities of India,
pre-independence times.  Today with Priyanka Paul is a brilliant teenage
depicting urban culture and how it
the exploding popularity the digital creative who has already experienced
affects her as an artist. The juxtaposition
era, the millennial women artist some success worldwide. Her artwork
of contrast and energy of cities inspires
in contemporary India are more highlights women of color and shatters
her to document people, capture their
than ready for art that is new, fresh the status quo. In Paul’s Goddesses
behaviour and problems they share. Her
, different and approachable to the series, she offers an alternative to the
work has been screened in many film
wider audience through social media traditional images associated with royal
festivals and also won awards.
platforms. They showcase how art and divine women. Instead of presenting
@kavitasinghkale q
is a powerful means of expression them in typical crowns and other regal

92
 FASHION

The X-Factor
The shoe brand Keds collaborated with EOS lip balm in 2015.

Source: Drugstorenews.com

Trending these days: Collaborations are the new zing as

designers, brands, artists are in a frenzy to create the
most awaited products in the market currently.

W O R D S P A R I D H I G A R G

Year 2017 was exceptionally good for Fashion
designer Manish Malhotra and American Wine brand
Chandon as they have collaborated for the bottle of
Champagne. The outcome came out to be stunningly
beautiful. Many brands collaborate with each other to
enjoy the benefit of existing marketplace of other. It
helps them to double their exposure and profit. Most of
the time brands associate with them who follows the
same kind of principles and product line. But some take
the risk and experiment by collaborating with brand
which has the completely different product line. Manish
Malhotra and Chandon collaboration is also the result of
that. The limited edition Champagne bottle is curated by
using gold motifs and inspired by garden of Versailles.
In an interview with Indian Express, Manish Malhotra
said,”The limited edition bottles are the beautiful result
of a unique fashion story – where old-world glory meets
contemporary, global influences. I do hope that India
will enjoy these limited edition bottles as much as I have
enjoyed designing them.”
He is not the only designer who
have step out of the box. Indian fashion designer
Sabyasachi and Home décor brand Pottery Barn
collaboration led to former first home décor line and
latter first global collection. Both follow the different
customer values and aesthetic. Sabyasachi combine his
design sensibility by using birds, elephants and tigers
with acute sensitivity which goes with customer values
of Pottery Barn. In an interview with Vogue, Monika
Bhargava who is an executive vice president of product
development in Pottery Barn said,” This collaboration is
constant inspiration for us. This is just the beginning. We
are definitely interested in constantly exploring different
and unexpected situations and markets that lead us to
various opportunities.”
With the help of unusual partnerships,
these brands stand out differently from the crowd of
competitors. It helps in creating hype and results in
selling out of products within hours. Both the brands
understand each other’s aesthetics and customers
demand and work according to that. In 2015, the shoe
brand Keds and skin care brand eos teamed up to offer
collection of three sneakers. The shoe color was inspired
by flavors and colors of eos Smooth Sphere Lip Balms.
Partnership of Apple watch series 2 and
Hermes left the consumers stunned. Hermes provides
three leather straps in his iconic shade of orange. More
designers, artists , brands etc should step up for unique
collaborations to leave the consumers wanting more. q

93
 HOROSCOPE

PLUCK
Spring Horoscope
Tis’ the season of new beginnings, you lovelies! While you bask in the glory of fresh blooms, icy
popsicles and gorgeous sheer pieces (gaaaah, yes, we are also obsessing over Fendi’s SS 2018
collection as much as you are) we’ll fill you in on what the stars have in store for you for Spring.
You’re welcome!

W O R D S K A R I S H M A S E H G A L

A R T W O R K P A R I D H I G A R G

ARIES
(Mar 21 - April 19)
Hey birthday babies! We don’t have
to tell you you’ll have a great month,
because, isn’t that a given?
Try to wrap up the worst of the tasks
on your to-do list before the 12th.
Mars is going retrograde soon after,
which means, productivity post-April
13th will be about as high as yours at
3 PM on a summer Friday. Whatever,
though, have fun while you’re at it.
Want to know where cupid’s at? On
Saturday, April 9th, you could meet the
one, if you haven’t already. It’s an exciting
time, kids!
TAURUS
(April 20 - May 20)
It’s time to prioritise,
my darling Taureans.
What are your goals for
the year? What do your
finances look like? What’s on your “Continue
watching” on Netflix? With Saturn on your side this
month, any decisions you make will last.

Let’s talk about love, shall we? On April 12th, Venus is getting
a warm, sexy vibration from Mars — but she’s not the only one
having all the fun. Whether you’re single and looking or coupled
up and cooking, the 22nd is a funion. There’s a whole lotta love
there, baby!

GEMINI
(May 21 - June 20)
Wakey wakey, girlies! It’s time you
finally woke up from your prolonged
hibernation. This Spring, it’s all about
getting out there, socialising and
communicating, whether it is on the work front,
the friendship front or the love front. And hey! Ditch
that bar of chocolate for a granola bar. Might as well
look fabulous while you do the mingling, no?

94
 CANCER
(june 21 - July 22)
For my Cancer sweethearts, this month
may start off a little slow thanks to stupid
Mars’ retrograde around the 17th. Be
patient and thorough; rewards to come
around the 13th that will give you good
momentum.

Your best day(s) for love: April 22nd, plus

or minus four days. You do the math but I
think the equation goes a little something
like you + me = us.

LEO
(july 23 - August 22)
Look like you Leos are not
in the mood to stop this
month. Exploring, traveling,
leading, trading pelts for
food, having colleges named
after you, ah, you’re all set out
to change the world. Your mind
will be hungry to soak up new
concepts, and to share them with
others too.
April 22nd is your lucky day, so expect some
magic.

VIRGO
(August 23 - September 22)
Let’s get the bad news out of the way
first - it’s not the best time when
it comes to matters of money. That
apart, it’s all pretty hunky dory!

Mars somehow has vacation again

and is going to the retrograde spa and
resort, again (at least it’s not Mercury)
which means you need to get your act
together before the 18th.

Oh! Almost forgot the best bit! Between April 15th

to April 21st, you’re likely to be traveling abroad (we hope
it’s a surprise vacay planned by your boo).

LIBRA
(September 23 -
October 22)
If you’re among the
lucky few in love, you
may hear the wedding
bells ringing soon. For
the rest of my lonesome
sisters, I’ve got good
news for you too! Around
April 10th, you’ll feel your
wallet getting fatter, around
the second week chances are
that you’ll meet THE ONE. So get
out there and socialise! Hit on the best
looking smile you can find!

SCORPIO
(october 23 - November 21)
Scorpios, this month you’ve got the energy of a
raging bull! Good thing, that. You’ll get a lot of
sh*t done! Now, because of annoying ass Pluto,
someone even more annoying ass is going to be
annoying you. Rather than sting them with that
tail of yours, however, you’re going to get through it
with patience. Breathe. Channel this moon juice and
focus on your creative endeavours instead.

95
 SAGGITTARIUS
(November 22 - December 21)
First, let’s talk career. April 14th is a day
when your efforts will finally culminate in
some big time recognition. (a promotion,
maybe?!). Get out there and celebrate!
You’ve earned it!

On the romance front, however, take it a tad

bit slow. You don’t want your heart broken.
Also, vague but interesting: something may
come to light on April 22nd. We don’t want to
say much but that it’s going to feel good.

CAPRICORN
December 22 - January 19)
April 5th, for you Capricorn
babies, is going to be a bomb
day. You’re going to get some
awesome news you’ve been
waiting for. For Mars retrograde
of the 22nd, all sharp objects (so
no Botox) and avoid purchasing
electronics. That Kindle will have to
wait.

Ending on a good note, the moon of the 21st is very

romantic, which is great news if you’re still on the
lookout for your Mr. Right

AQUARIUS
(January 20 - February 18)
On the whole, it’s a good month
for you, Aquaphor! I am really
proud to report that on April
12th, you just might find true love
thanks to Venus and Mars having
a union. And on April 21st, I don’t
want to be dramatic or anything, but
it sounds like your career is going to take
off in a direction that more or less makes you
the next big thing. Will the future film makers,
thought shakers and leaders of the world, please
stand up? Slim Shady’s going to make way, I
promise!

Pisces
(February 19 - March
20)
Gold fish, I sure do
hope you had the best
birthday month ever and
ate tons of cake. Speaking
of cake, this month is all
about money for you —
you’re primed to earn it and
dance under its umbrella but
remember: you have to work for
it. That’s three Rihanna songs for
price of one. Ca-ching! Sounds like
you’ll be able to afford it.

96
 FASHION

PLUCK LOVES
Brand in Focus - Notice Me!

W O R D S N O O R S E T H I

While the fast-paced nature of fashion

makes it extremely difficult to forecast what
to expect next, we can look at the changing
temperaments of consumers that dictate
trends to see what brands have shown
recent signs of promise. As accessorizing has
become increasingly fluid categories, labels
are forced to be dynamic while remaining
true to their individual brand vision. What
was once clearly defined has been blurred
into everything from high street to high
fashion in the last decade.
Call it Quirky. Call it Unconventional. Call it
Off-Beat. Call it Funky. Call it whatever you
want, more than just a fashion accessory
brand, Notice Me is an effort to support
today’s girl. The products are exclusively
created to be vibrant, bold ‘n’ chic. Filled
with patterns, bright colors and catchy
quotes, the latest collection has got plenty
of pieces for the girl next door. It is one of
India’s most affordable leading e-commerce
fashion brand with regards to customization,
providing the best quality in our products to
is provided on the e-commerce platform to
suit the needs of any of its consumers.
ensure that the customers receive the best
possible service from the company. q
They offer a varied range of products
such as bags, pouches, bag packs, totes,
tabletops, and cushions covers among
others that are handcrafted in New Delhi,
India. The unique selling point about ‘Notice
Me’ is not just about the products but also
regards the possibility of customization. In
a nutshell, the consumers have the option
of either choosing from the company’s
collection, tweaking these product designs
or customizing their own products from
scratch. Customers can customize anything
by changing the color, size or shape and
other specifications. Consumers can also
send any inspirational photos of designs
they would like to incorporate into the
product they purchase. Personal assistance
 FASHION

PLUCK LOVES
Collabs we are crazy about - Adidas and Parley

W O R D S J A S L E E N A R O R A

SOURCE: SURFACEMAG .COM

There may have been a time when fashion was

about nothing more than always staying ahead of
the trend but today, with the global environment
in irreparable disarray, more and more brands are
realizing the importance of sustainable design and
stepping up to the responsibility that lies ahead
of them. Adidas, the sportswear giant, has been
working on a collaboration with Parley for the
Oceans, an environmental group with emphasis
on ocean issues, for over a year. At a United Nations
Climate Event in June of 2015 they unveiled a
sneaker that was in development that would be
made using recycled ocean waste, and it was finally
launched in April,2017. Together Adidas and Parley
are reducing waste and making news.

Adidas is one such brand that hasn’t been afraid

to wade neck-deep into the issue. With their
collaboration with ‘Parley for the Oceans,’ they’re
not just avoiding waste, they’re actually reducing
it. The collaboration was announced on Earth Day ,
early this year in lieu of addressing the environment
issues faced by underwater life. The Ultra Boost
Uncaged is a frontrunner for a new generation of
footwear. Designed for running culture, they put
comfort first, with supportive four-way stretch,
100% boost midsole and feature unmatched grip
and durability. What makes them so special though
is the prime-knit upper is created entirely from
yarn made from recycled ocean plastic. The use of
light blue and white was chosen to remind people
about the dangers of coral bleaching in reefs across
the world, ensuring that everything about the
design is focussed on raising awareness without
compromising on the aesthetic itself. q
ADIDAS SPINS PL ASTIC
FROM THE OCEAN
INTO AWE SOME KICK S ,
I N C O L L A B O R AT I O N
WITH PARLE Y FOR THE
OCEANS.