Building a complete lower receiver from a stripped receiver, step by step

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(or..... "assemble your own lower for dummies") This web page will demonstrate just how easy it is to build a lower receiver from a stripped receiver. This whole process, start to finish, takes 30 minutes to an hour.... depending on your skill level. If you can poke small objects into small holes, then you can build your own receiver. There is a good reference for this whole procedure posted here: www.ar15.com/content/guides/assembly/lower/ however the guide below is a simplified version with real pictures to show you how easy this is to do.... if you are on the fence. SUPER video of the entire process by DVDTracker here: www.lifelibertyetc.com/RangeBag/Video/LLE_AR15StrippedLower.wmv Ok, lets cover the necessary tools. What you need: Honestly... there are NO special tools necessary. Some will argue its good to have roll pin holder tools, roll pin punches, etc..etc... the only tools I feel are really necessary are a small brass punch.... and light hammer. Everything else can be improvised. That’s it for tools! Now here are the step-by-step instructions: There is not really a special order you have to go in... common sense will tell you some things have to be put in first, before others... but for the most part its not really important. The order shown here is just the way I happened to go... I started with a stripped lower receiver:

Here is the parts list that comes with a lower parts kit....

Click HERE for a bigger and detailed parts kit photo. Here are some helpful pictures on the trigger and lower parts kits, common areas of confusion:

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spin the mag catch to tighten it. grab the mag catch button and push it towards the mag catch. Then. Then. Stop when the mag catch threaded post is flush or nearly flush with the button: . Insert the mag catch on the left side of the receiver (side with all the words on it) and then install the mag catch spring from the right side.1.

. On to the bolt catch.2. Get some masking tape and cover the lower receiver here: This is to keep accidental scratching from occurring as we tap in the bolt catch roll pin in place.

with the spring in first and the buffer facing out: ..Insert the roll pin. but do NOT tap it all the way in yet.. and tap lightly to get it started. Insert the bolt catch spring and buffer.

and its really no big deal. 3.. tap the roll pin all the way in. place more tape over the roll pin area as it gets close to flush to drive it all the way home. insert the spring into the detent hole: .Then. with the detent being lauched across the room.. while aligning the hole in the bolt release with the roll pin hole in the lower. If you want to avoid marring the finish. install the bolt catch. holding spring tension on the plunger. Just be careful. and using a punch. Some people have trouble with this one.. On to the front pivot pin.

It will barely even start in the hole before you really have to push for all the spring pressure.Then insert the detent. using the pivot pin. it just falls into place.. :-) .. push the detent back while you insert the pivot pin into it's hole in the receiver... Then. bamn. Snap..

. If you dont support the bottom ear.. BE VERY CAREFUL HERE. If it takes what you think is too much force. Also . You must support the "ears" on the bottom side if you tap the roll pin in place.4. STOP. you could break it off when tapping the pin in place. Also. some roll pins or trigger guards are out of spec. or starts to deform your roll pin. Then align the roll pin hole up with the hole in the "ears" of the receiver.. insert in the trigger guard with single hole side in the receiver. Trigger guard. This is pretty straightforward.see below for an alternative method of installing this pin by squeezing the pin in place.

.5. Drop the trigger and trigger spring assembly into the receiver.

. grab the hammer/hammer spring assembly. This takes a lot of wiggling to get it though. There is quite a bit of hammer spring tension. Cock the hammer. but just LIGHTLY. Then using a trigger pin.. Next. .. but squeeze the hammer into the receiver so that the hammer pin hole lines up with the holes in the lower receiver. but you can do it! 6. and insert it in the lower.Then push the disconnector on the top of the trigger.. through the disconnector. You might have to tap lightly to get the pin through the hammer. and install the hammer pin. insert it through the lower receiver.. and back into the other end of the receiver.. with the notch in the disconnector over the coil spring in the top of the trigger. The two long legs of the hammer spring should rest on the top of the trigger ping installed in step 5. into the trigger.

and spring into the detent hole: Install the pistol grip and grip screw. and the takedown pin into the rear of the receiver. Rear takedown pin: Install the detent and then the spring. next: .. taking care to ensure the selector spring goes into the hole in the grip.7. when it is installed.. 8. The stock will hold tension on this spring/detent. install the safety selector into the left side of the reciever. Next. Install the selector detent.

and then insert the buffer stop pin and spring: .... taking care with the takedown pin spring.. The tube should be threaded in just up to the buffer hole..9. Thread the rifle/carbine buffer tube slowly into the receiver.

Then thread the tube a little more. but does not touch the center part of the pin and bind its movement: . so that it holds the pin in place.

. and some people like to add a little blue loctite to this nut so it wont back off in the field: NOTE .com/catalog_parts_gunsmithing_p2. and some people never have a problem with this.bushmaster.Then tighten the stock in place. The CAR wrench for the newer castle nuts is a good tool to have: www. Loctite just helps assue it wont get loose on you while shooting. It is not required.asp#223TELEWRENCH2 . You can use the CAR wrench for the castle nut (shown) or the CAR nut..... Just use a DROP or two and it will break loose pretty easily though. Especially if you think you might be taking it apart again soon. this is a carbine stock.you may not wish to use Loctite.

with the buffer in next. The spring goes in first.. . Cock the hammer back to make this easy.Now.. and push the buffer in past the buffer pin sticking up. just insert the carbine/rifle buffer and spring.

The hammer will strike the bolt catch. and go shooting! Safety function check is described HERE and HERE DO NOT DRY FIRE A LOWER. but continued dropping of the hammer will likely result in damagin the bolt catch. install your upper. or both.. you can press them in: Originally Posted By A_Free_Man: Here are pictures. too): Hold the roll pin in position with needle nost pliers. Dry firing of the assembled weapon is fine. if you allow the hammer to drop on a lower that does not have an upper installed.. receiver. As an alternative to driving pins in with punches. how to press in the roll pins in the lower (works also for the roll pin for the FWD asst on the upper. However.You are all done! Perform a trigger mechanism safety check. a little oil or grease in the hole helps: . it will potentially damage the lower receiver. which will damage the bolt catch receiver area and pin. If you do it a couple times it will be fine.

Adjusting the pliers so that they just barely press the pin in with the handles all the way together gives maximum mechanical advantage: .Use large Vise Grip pliers. jaws taped to protect the receiver from scratches.

and position the bolt catch: . detent.Get the pin started in. and put in the spring.

Continue pressing in the pin by opening the pliers. turning the knob 1/2 turn at a time. and pressing the pin in little by little: .

it can be tapped in flush with a few light taps on a punch or an ordinary carpenters nail set: .Now the pin is almost all the way in.

by the mag well. it will break off the tab of your expensive lower: .Now let's do the trigger guard: Hook the trigger guard in the front. and swing into position. If you don't have the trigger guard in position when you try to start the pin.

turning the knob of the Vise Grip 1/2 turn at a time: .Press in as in previous post.

Almost there: .

Now that you have it this far. finish by tapping in flush using punch or nail set: .

That being said. and at a minum should wipe down the FCG. there will be no movement of the pins..Common Q&A: Q1. do you ever find the trigger and hammer pin move. and pins.. . when the hammer is installed. on initial assembly. one of the legs of the spring rest in the groove on the trigger pin. and takedown/pivot pins.. do any of the lower receiver parts need to lubed? A1.. with CLP. Or. are they necessary? A2. Q2. I dont see the real use of "anti-walk" pins unless you are running some sort of custom trigger that does not have these designs in place.. Then.. There is a "j" hook installed in the hammer that firmly holds the hammer pin in place. I like to use a little moly-grease on the sear engagement surfaces on the trigger and hammer. so that one cannot move. and work them in and out to lube the inside of the new fire control group. CLP is all you *need* for any part on the AR15/M16 rifle. I place a dab of grease on the new pins.. safety. If the FCG is installed correctly. or are they held in place fairly well? Ive seen some locking pins.. I also add a dab of grease to the safety selector.. or a KNS pin set which locks them from moving sideway or rotating.. if you do not want the pins to rotate in the receiver. and inside the trigger and hammer pin holes. so that cannot move. you can install oversized pins like in the RRA triggers.

This is a cast hardened part.Q3. and does not drill easily. NO!!! A light wipe with CLP is all you need. The hole in the bolt catch should be large enough to easily allow the bolt catch roll pin to pass through. Q4. NO GREASE on the buffer tube! That SPROING noise is NORMAL. My bolt catch is sticky. . that lets you know you need a fresh mag. My bolt wont lock back or it is VERY hard to release. then the bolt catch hole is out of spec. Any grease necessary on the buffer spring? A3. When you hear the noise change. Is this normal? A4. and is a good thing. If it does not. or you can ream it out larger with a tiny drill or grinding bit in a dremel. You can contact the vendor and have it replaced. or very small round needle file. NO!!! This is a common issue with new parts.