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Copenhagen DENMARK

SATURDAY, FEBRUARY 7, 2009

An exclusive
16-page guide
to Denmark’s
free-spirited and
fun-loving capital

In association with The Daily Telegraph
COPENHAGEN
Inside this Copenhagen guide Wonderful Copenhagen: the up-and-coming area of
Islands Brygge; opposite page, Vesterbro at night,
centre, and, far right, inside the Black Diamond
Get to know one of Europe’s most forward-thinking and energetic capitals
— and start planning your break in this captivating city
STAYING THERE WATERFRONT AND
A selection of hotels Page 4 ARCHITECTURE
Harbour life Page 10
GOING FOR GREEN
An inspiring environment EATING OUT GUIDE AND
Page 5 WHERE TO STAY FOR LESS
Pick a restaurant; plus budget hotels
SHOPPING AND DESIGN Page 11
Stylish and imaginative
Pages 6-7 DAY TRIPS
Towns, castles and museums Page 13
NIGHTLIFE AND FOOD
From the chic to the quirky GREAT EVENTS
Pages 8-9 Copenhagen’s many events Page 14

Produced by Telegraph Create for VisitDenmark. Words: William Ham Bevan
PICTURES Cover: Nico Donato, Søren Lauridsen, Nicolai Perjesi/VisitDenmark, Cees van Roeden/Wonderful Copenhagen. P2-3: Nicolai Perjesi, Jørgen Schytte, Bjørn Thunæs/VisitDenmark. P5: Christian Alsing, Claes Beck Poulsen/
Wonderful Copenhagen. P6-7: Getty, Dorte Krogh, Cees van Roeden/VisitDenmark, Christian Alsing, Morten Bjarnhof, Fritz Hansen / Wonderful Copenhagen. P8-9: Christian Alsing, Poul Hermann/Wonderful Copenhagen, Royal
Copenhagen. P10-11: Ireneusz Cyranek/VisitDenmark, Christian Alsing, Bo Bech/Wonderful Copenhagen. P13: Ted Fahn/VisitDenmark, Getty. P14: Nicolai Perjesi, Thomas Nykrog, Christian Geisnæs/VisitDenmark.
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Y

Free-spirited
TRAVEL TIPS
TOURIST INFORMATION
See www.visitcopenhagen.com and
www.visitdenmark.com. The main tourist
office is at Vesterbrogade 4Af.

FLIGHTS
SAS Scandinavian Airlines flies to
Clean, green, dynamic and fun, Copenhagen is an entrancing place that Copenhagen from Heathrow, London City,
Birmingham, Manchester and Aberdeen.
(0870 6072 7727, www.flysas.com).
exudes an infectious energy — and it’s full of the happiest people on earth British Airways flies to Copenhagen from
Heathrow (0870 850 9850, www.ba.com).
EasyJet flies to Copenhagen from

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hen global affairs magazine shopping to rival that of European capitals of Some of the most interesting spots to Stansted and Gatwick (0871 7500 100,
Monocle hailed Copenhagen as far greater size. check out are within the two former workers’ www.easyjet.com). Bmi flies to
the world’s most liveable city In recent years, a slew of grand building areas of Vesterbro and Nørrebro. The former, Copenhagen from Leeds, Glasgow
last summer, it’s likely that the projects has transformed the harbour front, once best-known as a rundown red-light and Edinburgh (0870 6070 555,
locals were pleased, but not adding such buildings as the new Opera district, has turned into the quarter with the www.flybmi.com). Cimber Air flies to
overly surprised. Residents of the Danish House, the Royal Danish Playhouse and the city’s edgiest nightlife. Multi-ethnic Nørrebro Copenhagen from Gatwick, Edinburgh
capital enjoy a famously enviable quality “Black Diamond” extension to the Royal is the place to go for idiosyncratic antiques and Newcastle (00 45 7010 1218,
of life — and one that visitors are very Library. And the city has led the way in shops, quirky bars and boutiques. www.cimber.dk). From late March/early
*Prices based on an exchange rate of £1 = Kr8.33 at time of press. Rates change daily

welcome to share. environmental tourism, with green initiatives Across the harbour, on the island of April Norwegian flies to Copenhagen
Copenhagen is an enchanting mix of the reducing the carbon footprint of its hotels Amager, lies the gently bohemian area of from Gatwick and Edinburgh
old and the new. Walking around its medieval — of which there are examples to suit all Christianshavn, with its old canals and (020 8099 7254, www.norwegian.no).
centre, it’s easy to imagine that this was the tastes and budgets. waterside bastions.
city of Hans Christian Andersen. Although it is one of the Nordic countries’ Here, also, is the “freetown” of Christiania, BUSES, METRO AND TRAINS
There are the ornate royal palaces; largest conurbations, Copenhagen is a controversial experiment to establish an An extensive bus network serves much
steadfast landmarks such as the 17th- manageable in size. It is compact enough to alternative society. South is the up-and- of Copenhagen. The Metro is normally
century Round Tower to take in; and see on foot — though public transport is clean coming area of Islands Brygge, already a open from about 5am to midnight, and
waterside scenes that have changed little and efficient — and, thanks to a network of haven of small galleries and boutiques. from Thursday to Sunday, services carry
over the course of two centuries. A visit to dedicated cycle lanes, there are few better Throughout, you can be sure of a warm on around the clock. “S-Trains” serve a
Tivoli Gardens, now more than 150 years old, places to explore by bicycle. welcome, and the chance to become local network. A CPH Card grants free
feels like a step back in time, despite its Each of the central neighbourhoods has a acquainted with the state of contentment travel by train, Metro and bus, plus free
state-of-the-art rides and attractions. distinct character. The City (also known as the Danes call “hygge”. Most often translated entry to 60 museums and attractions,
Yet Copenhagen is no period piece — quite Indre By) is Copenhagen’s commercial and as “cosiness” or “well-being”, it has no exact and discounts in some restaurants and
the reverse. Even by the standards of political heart, with a chaotic maze of streets equivalent in English — but once experienced, shops. Available in tourist offices, the
forward-thinking Scandinavia, it stands as a that bustle with energy after dark. West is it’s easily understood. airport, and major train stations and
city on the cutting edge of art, design and smart Frederiksberg with its Parisian-esque, And the Danes should know something online, it costs Kr199 (£24*) for 24
architecture. Few places have such a tree-lined avenues, green spaces and large about contentment: according to poll after hours or Kr429 (£51*) for 72 hours.
capacity to surprise the visitor, with a townhouses. To the north of the City is poll, they’re the happiest people in the world. See www.visitcopenhagen.com for
concentration of avant-garde bars, an Østerbro, a sprawling middle-class In this supplement, we present a selection of details and conditions.
amazingly diverse restaurant scene and neighbourhood with noted shopping. the best that Copenhagen has to offer.

THE DAILY TELEGRAPH 3
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Naturally green
Copenhagen is making its mark on the world map with many innovative answers to climate change

Two wheels good: free bikes are available in Copenhagen, which also boasts hotels and delis with the highest green and organic standards. Its harbour is clean enough to swim in

V
isit Tivoli Gardens, and you’ll notice fruition with the award of the Green Key to organic food — in part thanks to a proactive Copenhagen, is good for organic bread on the
an unusual vending machine near 13 hotels, including all nine in the capital’s stance by city authorities that are encouraging go and Egefield, on Gammel Kongevej, is the
the exits. On receipt of a recyclable biggest hotel group, Arp-Hansen, as well as the businesses and individuals to aim for 20pc of city’s first all-organic supermarket.
cup, it dispenses the five kroner Hotel Alexandra. Now operating in 38 food consumption to be organic by 2015. The city is also known for its “considerate
deposit that is added to the price countries, such accreditation is awarded only Before it was in vogue, many city cafés and shopping” stores. Boutique Mode med Mening
of all drinks bought within the park. to hotels meeting more than 50 criteria. restaurants had adopted a policy of serving (“clear-conscience fashion”) creates fair-trade
A larger statement of the Gardens’ eco Scandic group, which has six hotels in the organic products wherever possible. At one handbags and accessories, CommonZenz, an
intent will be a wind turbine, set to provide city, also operates a thorough ecological pioneer, Restaurant Cap Horn on Nyhavn, the organic lifestyle shop, sells environmentally
all the power requirements for the park from policy. All its hotels have been awarded the beverages and almost all the food ingredients conscious fashion and jewellery and Aniel
2010. But wherever you go in the city, good Swan, a mark of environmental excellence are certified organic, while the Michelin-starred sells organic and natural baby and children’s
green practice is a part of everyday life. recognised throughout the Nordic countries. Restaurant Geranium (see page 11) uses only clothes, toys and home accessories. Pureshop,
This winter’s COP15 summit is providing the biodynamic and organic ingredients. Denmark’s first organic perfumery, sells beauty
GET IN THE SADDLE impetus for hotels to work even harder on It’s possible Copenhagen has the greatest care goods (For details go to the Considerate
Copenhagen is one of the world’s most their environmental policy (see below). concentration of organic delis east of New Shopping link at www.visitcopenhagen.com).
bike-friendly cities, with dedicated cycle lanes York. Østerbro is particularly well served; one If that’s not enough, there’s even a
between pavement and carriageway. (This has NATURALLY BETTER of the best, Gourmanderiet, supplies organic permanent, sustainable-energy exhibition at
even given rise to a word used by planners — Organic is big in Copenhagen. Of all Europe’s ready meals plus confectionery and wines. Experimentarium, at Hellerup, just outside
to “Copenhagenise”, meaning to make the capitals, it is the one with the greatest uptake of Emmery’s, with branches throughout Copenhagen (go to www.experimentarium.dk).
environment more amenable to cycling.) One
warning: pedestrians should take care never
to wander into the unmarked bicycle lanes. UN CONFERENCE TO LEAVE LASTING ENVIRONMENTAL LEGACY
More than a third of locals use bikes as their
main way to get around, and visitors can easily The 15th Conference of Parties to convention. Its overall goal is “to stabilise the delegates and NHG, the conference
do so, too. Between April and November, City the United Nations Framework the amount of greenhouse gases in the organiser, has committed to evaluating the
Bike Copenhagen keeps cycle racks, with bikes Convention on Climate Change — popularly atmosphere at a level that prevents green credentials of all of the city’s hotels,
that can be borrowed free and taken anywhere known as COP15 — will take place in dangerous man-made changes. This so that a lasting legacy for Copenhagen
in a central city zone (go to www.bycyklen.dk). Copenhagen between November 30 stabilisation must occur in such a way as to will be that its accommodation will be more
Many hotels also have bikes for guests. and December 11. give the ecosystems the opportunity to environmentally friendly than ever before.
Its aim is to establish a binding global adapt naturally.”
TAKE A DIP climate agreement to apply to the period The main events will be in the Bella ÞDanish Ministry of Foreign Affairs website
Cleansing Copenhagen’s once-polluted harbour after 2012, when the commitment period Centre, south of central Copenhagen on the on COP15 www.cop15.dk
has been so successful that the water is pure of the current Kyoto Protocol expires. island of Amager. This autumn, before the ÞUnited Nations Framework Convention
enough to swim in, and in summer, many do. Ministers and officials from at least COP15 delegates arrive, the centre will also on Climate Change www.unfccc.int
Next to Langebro, the main bridge into Islands 189 countries are expected to attend be the setting for the XIII International ÞOfficial Copenhagen meetings and
Brygge, is the Havnebadet, a complex of five the conference. Olympic Committee Congress. conventions www.meetincopenhagen.com
pools, which is a great place to meet the locals. The UN Framework Convention on Finding accommodation for all the ÞVisitDenmark’s websites promoting green
Climate Change was initiated in 1990, and people attending the conference will be a holidays and meetings www.visitdenmark.
DREAMS OF GREEN signed at the Rio Earth Summit in 1992. huge task for Copenhagen. It is estimated com/green-denmark; www.visitdenmark.
Efforts to make guest accommodation more Today, 192 nations have ratified the that 10,000 rooms will be needed to house com/sust-dane-able-meetings
environmentally friendly have come to

THE DAILY TELEGRAPH 5
COPENHAGEN

Hot,
hot,
hot
Famous names, chic fashion, great glassware, hand-painted porcelain… it’s the place for retail therapy

S
tretching between the two main shopping area. About a third of the way up the Further east, just off Kongens Nytorv, is the
squares, Raadhuspladsen and latter is Kronprinsensgade, known as the quite remarkable Tage Andersen. To simply
Kongens Nytorv, Strøget is Europe’s fashion street, where several designer call it a flower shop would do the place a
longest pedestrianised shopping boutiques are to be found — among them Stig disservice: it is just as much a gallery (you
street. Many of the shop fronts will be P, Flying A and both the menswear and have to pay to go in). Inside, Andersen’s
familiar — most of the international chains womenswear outlets of Bruuns Bazaar. horticultural arrangements vie for space with
have their flagships here — but there are some Other streets to check out for designer exotic objets d’art and caged songbirds.
shopping experiences particular to clothes are Silkegade and Grønnegade, which Vesterbro is becoming a magnet for those
Copenhagen, too. Outlets of most prominent feature Helena Christensen’s favourite brand, seeking quirkier fashion and accessories.
Danish brands, including Bodum, Bang & Munthe plus Simonsen, and the shoe Istedgade, once notorious as the epicentre of
Olufsen and Sand, are nearby, as are a duo emporium Kassandra. Copenhagen’s red-light district, is now worth
of upmarket department stores, Illum and Fashionistas should also take a peek at the a trip by daylight to check out the increasing
Magasin du Nord. new upmarket shopping district, Galleri K, number of one-off boutiques and other new
The “royal shops” of Royal Copenhagen, which has recently opened on Pilestræde. The ventures — as is Vesterbrogade, which runs
Illums Bolighus and Georg Jensen, sit next to internationally successful Danish fashion label parallel to it. Likewise, Nørrebro is the place to
each other on Strøget, and are linked by Day Birger et Mikkelsen has a “concept store” go for second-hand clothing and bric-a-brac,
internal walkways. There’s the chance to see here, which is certainly worth a look. It stocks with shops concentrated around the side
the famous Royal Copenhagen porcelain being Smart stuff: Copenhagen offers a rich seam clothing for men, women and children, as well streets off the bottom end of Nørrebrogade.
hand-painted inside its shop, and to view for serious shoppers, from high fashion, as homeware. On the same street is Designers And don’t forget the markets. Between May
exhibits from the brand’s illustrious history. main picture and bottom right, to flea Remix, with chic, streetwise womenswear. and September, Copenhagen’s most famous
Illums Bolighus is the place to go for all markets, above, fine antiques, top right, One of the most enjoyable ways of flea market is held every Friday and Saturday
manner of designer goods — including and Royal Copenhagen porcelain, top centre discovering downtown Copenhagen’s shops is on the canalside at Gammel Strand. You’ll
classic Danish modernist cutlery — while to meander around the side streets that come need to get there early in the morning for the
Georg Jensen is known for elegant, Kompagnistræde. Peter Hertz is jeweller to the off Strøget, looping back and forth. chance of a true bargain, but the standard of
expensive jewellery. royal house, having crafted the rings for the The area around the junction with goods is high. Less exclusive, and just as much
These are not the only shops to display the current Crown Prince’s wedding. His premises Nørregade attracts a younger set with its fun, are the market in the upscale
royal warrant of Queen Margrethe II. CE are on Købmagergade. streetwear and music shops. South of the neighbourhood of Fredriksberg, at the City
Fritzsche — “as far as we know, the oldest The right-angle formed by the two traffic- main shopping drag are quieter streets, Hall (Saturdays, mid-April to late October) and
glass shop in the world” — stocks fine crystal free streets of Strøget and Købmagergade with small independent booksellers, the one at Israels Plads, near Nørreport
and glassware at its green-fronted store on marks downtown Copenhagen’s main antiques shops and boutiques. Station (Saturdays, mid-April to early October).

6 THE DAILY TELEGRAPH
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Classic look: the store
Mads Lang, left, specialises
in second-hand Danish
designs; Arne Jacobsen’s
iconic Egg chair, below left

An eye for design with
more than a touch of style
Walk the streets for modern and classical ideas
Danish design is famous the world over — in workaday objects special, using wit and
part thanks to 20th-century masters such as innovation. Hay (www.hay.dk) sells
Arne Jacobsen, Hans J Wegner and Finn Juhl. functionalist furniture very much in the
For a crash course in their works and classic Danish mould, and has recently
influence, go to the Danish Design Centre opened a new showroom, Hay House,
(www.ddc.dk) at HC Andersens Boulevard, or in an Art-Nouveau building just off Strøget.
the Danish Museum of Decorative Art CasaShop (www.casashop.dk) is more
(www.kunstindustrimuseet.dk). eclectic in its collections, gathering examples
The museum is on Bredgade, where you’ll of both international and domestic trends at
find many collectors’ stores and auction its shop in Store Regnegade. A community of
showrooms. It’s possible to spend any amount eight designers work at Designer Zoo (www.
of money on original 20th-century examples of dzoo.dk), turning out original creations of
Danish furniture. Fortunately, Copenhagen is furniture, glassware, jewellery and knitwear.
blessed with plenty of places to browse and The store, in Vesterbro, also
buy the works of present-day sells handcrafted goods by
designers, as well. other up-and-coming
The largest design store is Danish designers.
Paustian (www.paustian.dk) in For second-hand
the docklands, where just about and collectors’ pieces,
any fixtures or fittings for the go to Nørrebro. The
home are available. neighbourhood immediately
Also operating over Dronning Louises
on a large scale Bro — particularly around
is Normann Ravnsborggade and
(www.normann- Blaagaardsgade — is a
copenhagen.com), treasure-trove of small dealers’
whose flagship shops. Don’t be surprised to
showroom is in an old see a note on the door, asking
cinema in Østerbrogade. customers to fetch the proprietor
Normann’s mission is to make from a nearby bar.
COPENHAGEN

Party time
Elegant bars, hip clubs everyone ends up here at some point.
Occupying the former premises of the Daells
Varehus department store, and taking
and extraordinary cafés its affectionate moniker — along the lines of
“Marks and Sparks” — this central café and
– the city offers myriad restaurant turns into a DJ bar until 3am at
weekends. Its mix of the industrial (bare walls
ways to live it up in style and pipes) and the opulent (swishing drapes
and chandeliers) have set a template for
Copenhagen’s style bars. Next door, and also
part of the old store building, is the Hotel Skt
Petri and its Bar Rouge: a scarlet cocktail

F
ollow directions to Copenhagen’s
hottest nightlife quarter — the lounge that’s as sharp as its designer-clad
meatpacking district at Vesterbro — clientele. Those who prefer honest-to-God
and you may find yourself thinking rock ’n’ roll will be happier at raucous Isola
you’ve taken a wrong turn. A neon Rock Music Club near Nørreport station.
hoarding, advertising spark plugs, marks the The other hotspot outside the City is
entrance to a bleak industrial estate of Nørrebro, a short hop north-west. Like
anonymous low-rise units. But press on, and Vesterbro, it represents the regeneration of a
you’ll discover a clutch of hip bars, nose-to-tail formerly down-at-heel quarter. Clubbers flock
with the still-functioning meat warehouses. to Dust, second only to Vega in terms of size,
Karriere is the place that kicked off the and probably its equal in popularity. But the
area’s trendification. The former real individuality of Nørrebro is expressed in
slaughterhouse is crammed with look-at-me its places to go earlier in the evening.
design flourishes including a slowly moving Props Coffee Shop, a bona-fide bar
bar and light sculptures. A café and restaurant despite the name, is a charming, ramshackle
by day, it serves beers and cocktails to self- little place with regulars from all walks of life
consciously stylish types after sundown, often and an unusual house rule: if you like any of
with live music, DJs or performance art. the fixtures or fittings, you can pay for them
Louder, darker and ruder is Jolene, a truly and take them home. Also worth a visit is the
fantastic bar and club just across the way. Nørrebro Bryghus microbrewery, and the
Named for the Dolly Parton song, it attracts a Laundromat Café — a real one-off where you
less dressy but more authentically arty crowd. can sip a beer, browse the library of 4,000
What’s more, if you make friends with the books and watch people’s clothes go round
locals, you may find word of nearby parties to on spin cycle.
enjoy after the bars shut in the early hours. Then there’s Sankt Hans Torv, with two
Vesterbro, once a working-class quarter of Copenhagen’s best-known cafés, Pussy
and red-light district, can also boast Galore’s Flying Circus and Sebastopol.
Copenhagen’s most famous club complex, In the mix: popular café Pussy Galore; below, a Copenhagen Pride festival reveller The former boasts stark white walls, picture
Vega. It is vast, taking in two main rooms windows overlooking the square, and the
(“big” and “little” Vega), a more relaxed north of Christiansborg Palace, is Ruby, socialisers: everyone is welcome.” Almost occasional visit from members of Denmark’s
lounge bar, and an attached pre-club haunt, though you would have no chance of finding it as tricky to find is Bar 1105, even though royal family. The latter is a student haunt.
the Ideal Bar. It lures top-drawer DJs and live without knowing it is there. Pass through the it is just one street away from Strøget, the It’s difficult to offer more than a snapshot
acts from around the world — see the website, unmarked door, and you’ll enter what would main shopping drag. Here, behind dark of Copenhagen’s nightlife, so varied are the
www.vega.dk, for what’s forthcoming — and feel like a private apartment — all high ceilings, windows, is an elegant asylum from the bustle many scenes to be discovered — and they
clubbing magazines have frequently placed it wainscoted walls and polished floors — if not of the city, with cocktails from famed change fast. But it’s worth remembering that
in their top 10s of world dance venues. for the imaginative cocktail list and welcoming Copenhagen mixologist Gromit Eduardsen. the locals like to arrive late, with many clubs
Copenhagen’s nightlife has some surprises vibe. As its website, www.ruby.dk, states, If Ruby and Bar 1105 are places for the livening up only at midnight. It can be very late
up its sleeve. Bang in the centre of town, just “Uptown socialites as well as downtown select few, Dalle Valle is quite the opposite: (or early) before you make it to your bed!

2009 FESTIVALS IN THE CITY
DISTORTION COPENHAGEN PRIDE STRØM
June 3-7 July 25-August 2 August 10-16
The focus of this event — which sees more A week-long annual event, celebrating An electronic-music festival held throughout
than 50 parties take place in five different Denmark’s gay, lesbian and bisexual the city. It brings together Copenhagen’s
neighbourhoods, with more than 30,000 community. Includes the World Outgames foremost promoters and venues.
participants — is on club culture and music. and Cityparade on Saturday, August 1. www.stromcph.com
www.cphdistortion.dk www.copenhagenpride.dk
ROSKILDE FESTIVAL
COPENHAGEN JAZZ FESTIVAL CO2 July 2-5
July 3-12 September 4-6 One of the most famous events in
Premier Danish jazz acts and top For the first time ever an art and music Europe’s rock calendar, this takes place
international artists converge on the city. festival is fuelled entirely by renewable just half an hour’s train ride from the city.
Many concerts are free. energy sources. Tickets sell out quickly.
www.jazzfestival.dk www.co2penhagen.com www.roskilde-festival.dk

8 THE DAILY TELEGRAPH
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Eat your heart out Fine dining: the
stunning interior of
the Royal Café,
where the smushi,
below left, is the talk
of the town
The city’s dynamic chefs offer a fresh spin on
popular dishes, creating a foodie revolution

T
he past decade has seen Copenhagen spread over two floors, linked by a spiral
become a true star in Europe’s staircase. The cuisine is Mediterranean with
gastronomic flag. Throughout the city, a hint of the Orient.
a new cuisine has emerged: eclectic and Cofoco (Copenhagen Food Consulting) is
experimental, yet respectful of Danish another group to have imprinted its
culinary tradition. personality on the city’s food scene. Its
And it’s a measure of its success that the original restaurant in Vesterbro, Cofoco,
latest Michelin Red Guide awarded no fewer offers a sophisticated three-course menu
than 12 stars to Copenhagen restaurants — that’s incredibly good value, as well as the
more than it lavished upon Rome, Madrid, chance to meet new dining companions at
Berlin, Milan or Vienna. its long communal table. Other restaurants
One man, Torben Olsen, is widely credited in the group — Les Trois Cochons, the
with sparking Copenhagen’s foodie upmarket Auberge and the centrally located
revolution, in a series of phenomenally Vespa — also warrant a visit.
successful restaurant openings. His protégés Amid all the revolutionary fervour,
— known as the Olsen Gang, after the robbers there’s still a place for more traditional
in a series of popular Danish heist movies — restaurants. A good example is Peder Oxe,
retain charge of many of the top eateries. a veteran that offers old-style Danish food
In keeping with Copenhagen’s status as and hospitality in a cosy dining room just
Europe’s greenest capital, many of its around the corner from the famous Round
restaurants source organic produce as a Tower. Expect native oysters, large steaks
matter of course, and take their environmental and friendly, uniformed staff.
responsibilities very seriously (see page 5). At the other end of the spectrum, the most
In Copenhagen, a café may be a place to talked-about project in Copenhagen is the
chat with friends over coffee and pastry, take revamp of Nimb, the world-famous pavilion at
time out for a light lunch, or linger over Tivoli Gardens. As well as a deli (see below),
something more substantial. There’s no chocolate factory and wine merchant,
such thing as a typical café — and the hotel has two restaurants.
some establishments are The more formal Herman,
very distinctive indeed. named for chef Thomas
The Royal Café, Herman, serves radical
found in a small interpretations of
courtyard annexe of traditional Danish
the Royal Copenhagen dishes, such as the
store, certainly falls bacon-and-potato
into this category. The staple of brændende
interior is jaw-dropping, kærlighed.
with its glass-bead Simpler, brasserie-style
chandeliers, herringbone dining is available in Nimb
floor and wittily faked old Restaurant — and the theatre
masters on the walls. But it’s the kitchen means diners can witness
smushis that are the talk of the town: sushi- the staff perform their nightly conjuring act.
style renditions of smørrebrød, the famous Non-European cuisines are well
Danish open sandwich. The Royal Café has represented in Copenhagen, too.
become a popular Sunday brunch spot, and Umami offers up delectable Japanese
there are sometimes DJ sessions later on dishes “accentuated by the substance and
weeknight evenings. tradition of French cuisine” in a futuristic
Café a Porta, a venerable institution once cuboid dining space.
patronised by Hans Christian Andersen, is Looking over the Jewish Cemetery in
now in the Olsen Gang’s hands. The menu has Nørrebro, Kiin Kiin is a Thai restaurant that
been updated with a modern fusion twist has swiftly gained a reputation as one of
(though it is still possible to get a simple trio Scandinavia’s best.
of smørrebrød at lunch), but the lavish You don’t have to eat out to eat well in
interior, with its acres of wood panelling, Copenhagen — few cities are as well served
has been preserved. for specialist delis and food shops.
Within the Danish Film Institute, Sult, Løgismose, inside Nimb, sells many of the
named after the novel by Knut Hamsun ingredients used in its restaurants, as well as
(or more likely, its movie adaptation) is wines, fresh cheeses and ready-made dishes.
another Olsen outpost. Appropriately, the You can even leave with what has been hailed
high-ceilinged dining room has a filmic, as the world’s best hot dog — garnished with
larger-than-life feel to it, and the menu is onions fried in duck fat and rosemary.
primarily Mediterranean. But for the biggest concentration of high-
Back in town, the Grill Bar has proved end delis selling artisan products and organic
to be one of the Olsens’ buzziest launches: brands, head to Østerbrogade, the main
a restaurant and cocktail-lounge complex artery of the Østerbro district.
COPENHAGEN

Waterside
culture
From its past as a port, Copenhagen has grown
into a watery city full of avant-garde architecture

C
openhagen is a city defined by that the Little Mermaid really is little (just
water. Its very name derives from over 5ft tall) and it’s possible to get a
the Old Danish for “merchants’ far closer look from dry land.
harbour”, and its growth has Travelling south from the citadel, the first
depended upon its value as a port. landmark to come into view is the Opera
Today, that harbour remains the artery of House — built on the former naval base of
the modern city, with locals and visitors Holmen — which celebrated its fourth birthday
alike still drawn to the waterside — though in January. Like Sydney’s iconic Opera House,
nowadays it is for enjoyment, rather than for this is an architectural masterpiece that is
the purposes of commerce. best seen from the water; and the approach
What’s more, travelling by water grants a by boat, finally drawing up in the shadow of
unique perspective on some of the city’s its soaring, cantilevered roof, sends shivers
most notable architecture — and it’s easy in down the spine. As, indeed, does the cost of
Copenhagen. Regular river bus services its construction: about £300m, making it one
run between Søren Kierkegaards Plads and of the most expensive opera houses ever
the citadel, Kastellet. However, to see built. The alignment of the building is no
Copenhagen’s symbol, the Little Mermaid, accident — look out over the harbour from
from the water, you will need to take a proper the steel-and-glass foyer and you can see
tour boat — DFDS and Netto-Baadene are the straight between the wings of Amalienborg
main operators. It’s worth knowing, though, Palace to the dome of Frederik’s Church.
w w w.v i s i td e n m a r k .c o m

WHERE TO EAT
NOMA number nine, the most
Copenhagen’s finest. romantic spot in the
Chef René Redzepi, house, is often booked
who has previously up weeks in advance.
spent time in the kitchen Guldbergsgade 21;
of El Bulli in Spain, www.kiin.dk
creates masterpieces of
Nordic cuisine. Booking in KONG HANS
good time is essential. KÆLDER
Nordatlantisk Brygge; Classic French-
www.noma.dk Danish cuisine
served in a
ERA ORA stone-vaulted dining
A well-loved Italian room within
restaurant that cleaves Copenhagen’s
to the principles of oldest building.
Slow Food: “era ora” Vingåardsstræde 6;
means “about time” in www.konghans.dk
Italian. The freshest
ingredients are flown THE PAUL
over from Umbria each Inside a greenhouse-
week. Overgaden Neden like building in Tivoli
Nordic style: clockwise Vandet 33B; Gardens, British-born
from opposite page, www.era-ora.dk chef Paul
Custom House, formerly Cunningham (top)
owned by Conran; yachts ENSEMBLE masterminds a
docked in the picturesque Simplicity to the point restaurant that’s
Nyhavn; art in progress of minimalism is the sophisticated, but also
ethos in this small, playful and fun.
central restaurant. The Vesterbrogade 3;
Just south of the Palace is the Royal Danish itself well to its new use, with a clean, single tasting menu www.thepaul.dk
Playhouse, set to become Denmark’s new open-plan interior that is typically Conran. The changes fortnightly,
national theatre. Inaugurated in February three restaurants, now operated by different and marries French MR
2008, the squat, cuboid building is intended to owners — Bacino, the Bar & Grill and Ebisu — technique with locally The initials are those
invoke the idea of a moored liner. Its character provide diners with a choice of Italian, sourced ingredients. of Mads Reflund, who worked in many of
changes according to light conditions: in Danish-European and Japanese cuisine. Tordenskjoldsgade 11; Denmark’s most famous kitchens before
sunny weather, the copper-clad tower In terms of contemporary architecture, www.restaurantensemble.dk branching out on his own. The style is
sparkles, and evening sees the glass facade though, the past decade’s most talked-about modern European.
of the top storey glow in the soft light. The addition to the waterfront is the extension to FORMEL B Kultorvet 5; www.mr-restaurant.dk
complex contains three stages, a restaurant the Royal Library. It is known as the Black A well-established restaurant in Vesterbro
and café, and a large waterfront terrace. Diamond, though this is something of a that first earned its Michelin star in 2004. PAUSTIAN (above)
Beyond the playhouse is Nyhavn, a slim misnomer: it actually consists of two The cuisine is Danish-French fusion, with Danish cuisine at its most experimental.
finger of water that is one of Copenhagen’s monolithic blocks of dark glass, linked by a fanatical attention to freshness and Chef Bo Bech allows his imagination
most famous waterside sights. Its pastel- transparent atrium. Designed by Aarhus-based presentation. Vesterbrogade 182; free rein in themed menus such as
coloured buildings are second in popularity architects Schmidt Hammer Lassen, the Black www.formel-b.dk “Alchemist” — a selection of signature
only to the Little Mermaid on postcards of Diamond houses a concert hall, gallery spaces dishes — and the whimsically named
the city, and fine weather brings locals out in and shops as well as reading rooms. It’s also GERANIUM “Chlorophyll” for vegetarians.
their droves to the waterside cafés and bars. home to a café — well used by students — and “Respect for nature” is the philosophy here, Kalkbrænderiløbskaj 2;
Opposite the harbour from the entrance to the acclaimed Søren K restaurant. so Geranium’s Nordic-fusion dishes use www.restaurantpaustian.dk
Nyhavn is North Atlantic House — a warehouse The harbour isn’t the only place to enjoy organic, seasonal meat, vegetables and
that contains Noma restaurant (see panel, waterside life. Everyone’s first visit to dairy produce. Kronprincessegade 13; SØLLERØD KRO
right), the diplomatic representations of Copenhagen should include a look around www.restaurantgeranium.dk Simple dishes, immaculately executed, are
Iceland, the Faroe Islands and Greenland, and Christianshavn, which has the feel of a what bring aficionados to this coaching inn
a centre for North Atlantic culture. city within a city. Its canal, lined by tall KIIN KIIN in Holte, north of central Copenhagen.
Another warehouse conversion, sited a 19th-century houses in the Dutch style, is an Copenhagen’s top ethnic restaurant, Sollerodvej 53, Holte;
little way south on Gammel Dok, is the site excellent place to tarry for an afternoon, with serving a refined take on Thai cuisine. Table www.soelleroed-kro.dk
of the Centre for Danish Architecture, which lively neighbourhood cafés nearby. And across
shares a building with the town, there are the five
Royal Danish School of Copenhagen lakes,
Architecture. The Centre is
a must for anyone with an
marking the border
between the City on one
WHERE TO STAY ON A BUDGET
interest in Nordic style, side and Fredriksberg and HOSTELS opportunity to get to know Danish
and hosts frequently Nørrebro on the other. There are several comfortable Danhostels people in their homes a bit better.
changing exhibitions, There are plenty of places in the Greater Copenhagen area and they Bookings can be made online, or
debates and talks. to stop for a coffee or a are ideal for couples, families and groups. at the Wonderful Copenhagen
Along the promenade bite along their banks, The most central is Danhostel Tourist Information office on
(Havnegade) from Nyhavn particularly around the Copenhagen City with more than Gammel Kongevej 1.
is the old hydrofoil ferry west side of Dronning 1,000 beds. HC Andersens Boulevard 50, (0045 3325 7400).
terminal, now transformed Louises Bro. (0045 3318 8332). www.danhostel.dk/
into Custom House, a bar copenhagencity For additional information on hostels
and restaurant complex Þ Boat tour operators: and bed and breakfast accommodation
formerly owned by DFDS (www.canaltours. BED AND BREAKFAST ACCOMMODATION go to www.visitcopenhagen.com or
Sir Terence Conran. The com) and Netto-Båadene This offers good value for money, and an www.visitdenmark.com
Art Deco building lends (www.netto-baadene.dk)

THE DAILY TELEGRAPH 11
w w w . v i s i t d e n m aLrUkX. cUoRm
Y

At the sharp end: Arken
Museum of Modern Art,
on the outskirts of the
city, is eye-catching —
both inside and out

Trips to make your day
Not far from the central areas are some fascinating and beautiful places well worth seeking out

ARKEN MUSEUM OF artists (including Monet, Renoir, Van Gogh Festival arrives at the castle, with both
MODERN ART and Gauguin) on loan from the Israel Danish and English-language performances
A short journey south of downtown Museum, Jerusalem. of Shakespeare’s masterpiece. Sir Laurence
Copenhagen brings you to the suburb of Suburban trains (lines A and E) run to Ishøj Olivier, Sir Derek Jacobi, Sir Michael
Ishøj, and a museum where the architecture from Copenhagen Central station; bus 128 Redgrave, Richard Burton and Kenneth
is as striking as the exhibits. Opened in 1996, then runs directly to the museum. For more Branagh have all played the Dane there
Arken’s soaring, angular buildings are home information, see www.arken.dk (go to www.hamletsommer.dk for details of
to travelling exhibitions and a permanent this summer’s events).
collection of more than 300 works of modern HELSINGØR Helsingør boasts many other historic sites
art. Danish, Nordic and international artists To the English-speaking world, the city of that warrant the trip from Copenhagen.
are represented, including Wolfgang Helsingør is better known as Elsinore — There’s the Carmelite Monastery, the
Tillmans, Olafur Eliasson and Marc Quinn, setting for the tragedy of Hamlet. Its castle, remains of the medieval Gurre Castle and
with an emphasis on pieces produced after known as Kronborg, guards the narrowest Saint Olai Church — and the narrow, cobbled
1990. After a recent refurbishment, all part of the Øresund strait, and is now streets of the old town are atmospheric
Arken’s Damien Hirst exhibits — 10 in total — Unesco World Heritage-listed. It’s become places in themselves to spend an afternoon.
are collected in a single room. a cultural hotspot, with theatre, ballet and Costume drama: Michael Redgrave as Coastal train services run from
Until June 7, the museum is presenting concerts taking place in the castle and its Hamlet and Yvonne Mitchell as Ophelia at Copenhagen Central to Helsingør. For more
a collection of 53 works of Impressionist courtyard. Each August, the Hamlet Summer Kronborg Castle in Helsingør in 1950 information, see www.visithelsingor.dk

THE DAILY TELEGRAPH 13
COPENHAGEN
LOUISIANA MUSEUM OF
MODERN ART
Located in its own sculpture park in
Humlebæk, northern Zealand, looking across
the Øresund to Sweden, Louisiana is one of
Scandinavia’s most acclaimed art spaces.
Designed as “a totality — an interaction of
art, architecture and landscape”, it has a
collection that includes paintings,
installations and videos by many of the 20th
century’s acknowledged greats. Among the
3,000-plus pieces are works by Picasso,
Giacometti, Yves Klein, Andy Warhol and
Henry Moore.
Unique to Louisiana is the Children’s Wing
— a three-storey centre in which families can
take part in a range of art-based activities,
aimed at encouraging children to think about
the exhibits they have seen in the gallery
(pictured, far right). A supplemental the region’s biggest attractions. Its twin
attraction is the Lake Garden, which contains spires dominate the cityscape, as befits the
winding paths to explore and small cottages final resting place of Danish royalty. There’s
designed by five prominent architects. Stop also the Viking heritage to discover: five
by the museum café for a beautiful ships scuttled in the 11th century in the fjord,
panoramic view of the Øresund. and raised from its depths in the Sixties,
Trains run to Humlebæk from Copenhagen are now the main attractions of the Viking
Central; the museum is a 10-minute walk Ships Museum.
from the station. For more information, go to Fit for a king: Frederiksborg Castle, above; visitors at Louisiana’s Children’s Wing, right It’s possible to take a trip up the
www.louisiana.dk picturesque fjord in a reconstructed longship
Denmark’s Museum of National History, Suburban trains (line E) run to Hillerød or a modern vessel. On land, Roskilde offers
HILLERØD AND containing the kingdom’s most significant from Copenhagen Central. For more details, good shopping opportunities, and it’s worth
FREDERIKSBORG CASTLE collection of portraiture. Frederiksborg go to www.fredriksborgmuseet.dk exploring the harbour: a buzzing, modern
Few palaces could boast of a lovelier setting stands as the symbol of Hillerød, a pretty district, with an art gallery and workshops
than Frederiksborg Castle. Its buildings sit on market town in the middle of North Zealand. ROSKILDE on the site of a former gasworks.
three islands in the middle of Palace Lake, It abuts Gribskov forest, one of the largest Situated at the end of its eponymous fjord,
beyond which are the extensive grounds of woodland areas in Denmark, and one that the ancient city of Roskilde is a popular Þ Direct trains operate from Copenhagen
the Baroque Garden. Long a seat of the is known for its excellent walking and destination.. The unusual red-brick cathedral to Roskilde. For more information, go to
Danish royal family, the palace now houses biking opportunities. — a Unesco World Heritage Site — is one of www.visitroskilde.com

MAJOR EVENTS IN 2009
TIVOLI GARDENS COPENHAGEN MARATHON The annual event — three days fashionistas and shoppers alike cuisine has to offer. Sample all the
April 8-September 20; May 24, Copenhagen of fun, music, workshops and can share the high-fashion vibe best-quality ingredients at large
October 9-18 (Halloween), One of Europe’s oldest city performances — attracts more — is being held in parallel with food expos all around the city.
November 19-December 30 marathons. Encouraged along the than 100,000 visitors and has Northern Europe’s largest www.copenhagencooking.com
(Christmas), Copenhagen route by entertainment and bands, become a very popular festival. fashion trade event.
Denmark’s best-loved tourist runners pound the streets of www.karneval.dk www.copenhagenfashionweek. DANISH DESIGN WEEK 2009/
attraction — known for its ancient Copenhagen, passing some of the com; www. COPENHAGEN ARCHITECTURE
wooden rollercoaster — and Walt city’s major attractions. COPENHAGEN FASHION WEEK/ copenhagenfashionweekend.com AND DESIGN DAYS
Disney’s inspiration for Disneyland. www.copenhagenmarathon.com COPENHAGEN FASHION August 27-September 6,
The world’s oldest amusement WEEKEND COPENHAGEN COOKING Copenhagen
park (below, far left) is open at WHITSUN CARNIVAL OF August 5-9, Copenhagen August 21-30, Copenhagen A variety of events, workshops
various selected times of the COPENHAGEN Copenhagen Fashion Weekend, The city will be alive and cooking and exhibitions showcase the
year. In December it becomes May 29-31, Copenhagen a series of public events — where with everything that Scandinavian country as a world leader in
a winter wonderland. sustainable design solutions.
www.tivoli.dk Copenhagen Architecture and
Design Days offer a chance to
UCI BMX SUPERCROSS see exciting architecture and
WORLD CUP craftsmanship, such as the
May 8-9, Copenhagen Opera House (right). At
Part of Bike City Copenhagen. the same time, the exhibition
The best riders compete at one for the world’s largest design
of the world’s most challenging awards, the INDEX: award
and exciting tracks. opens at the city’s Kongens Nytorv.
www.bmxcopenhagen.com www.seedesign.org;
www.ddc.dk; www.cphadd.com
FUTURE IS NOW: ARCHITECTURE
FOR A SUSTAINABLE WORLD KOPENHAGEN CONTEMPORARY
May 29-September 27, Louisiana September 18-20, Copenhagen
Museum of Modern Art, Humlebæk Selected Copenhagen
An exhibition focusing on new and galleries, exhibition halls and
alternative architectural museums will offer a wide
movements of today. range of free events. www.
www.louisiana.dk kopenhagencontemporary.com

14 THE DAILY TELEGRAPH