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ON SALE 1-30 APRIL 2018 £4.50


New, fresh, inspiring…

• Exclusive Diana Henry menu
• Risotto gets even better!
• Healthy veggie winners


James Martin’s cheesy
Texas meatballs

10 ingredients
you need in
your freezer

Dan Doherty’s lemon
spiced cauli cheese

Pea, pecorino,
spring green and
asparagus risotto
This product is high in fibre containing more than 6g of fibre per 100g of product
Do you remember the first time
something you tasted made an impression on you?
Follow Karen Food, by its nature, has its roots in culture, in the
on Twitter
@deliciouseditor things our mothers, fathers, grandparents and friends
and on Instagram
cooked – and still cook. The experiences of our youth
(good and bad) resonate in the eating of our adulthood.
As we grow up, learn new things and travel, inspiration
comes from other sources: from places we visit, trying
dishes that assail, tease, please and sometimes challenge our taste buds.
Combine tantalising flavours with sunshine and a view over sea or snow-
covered mountains, add laughter and good conversation around the table and
the pleasure is heightened. But equally that happy memory can be a solitary
one, sitting alone eating a bowl of the sweetest, plumpest mussels in a bustling
café, or a flavour-bomb morsel grabbed hot from a street stall.
Such memories are filed away in a folder marked ‘good times’ (I like to call
them ‘delicious. moments’) that we can pull out whenever we want to muse on
times we want to return to – but there’s a poignant edge because the likelihood
is we never will. The result is a sort of sensory DNA, defining who we are.
In this April issue of delicious. – ‘the inspiration issue’ – we’ve tried to
capture as many experiences and memory-trigger moments as we can. There
are Ravinder Bhogal’s caramel recipes, inspired by a film that has almost
nothing to do with food but everything to do with solidarity and camaraderie;
there are Nuno Mendes’ memories of his childhood in Lisbon; and there are
my own recollections of days in my grandad’s bakery…
You’ll find good things to eat on almost every page, and we hope these,
in turn, will inspire you. Happy cooking.


PS p78 for our special offer.


Subscribe to delicious. magazine

and receive Diana Henry’s new
book How to Eat a Peach, worth £25

1 Book…
…tickets to see The Guernsey Literary
and Potato Peel Pie Society, out on 20 April.

2 Read…
First it was a bestselling book and now it’s
a film, with cast including Lily James (right),
Matthew Goode and Penelope Wilton. It’s a …First Catch: Study of a Spring Meal
(fictional) story of life on Guernsey during (£16.99; Hardie Grant) by rising-star chef and
the German occupation in World War II food writer Thom Eagle. There’s a slew of
(not fictional). Times were hard and books that plough a similar furrow, but not to
food was scarce – hence the potato the standard of this collection of cloth-bound
peel pies. It will be interesting musings. The topics he covers range from
to see how the book’s format the boiling of veg to cooking with blood…
(a series of letters) translates to Really, it’s compelling! If you want to dip into
the big screen. his writing beforehand, visit his excellent blog,
In Search of Lost Thyme:

Five quick things to make with… Radishes

The super-simple side
Braised herby radishes
3 Radishes with herby butter
Beat softened butter with
1 crushed garlic clove and a large
Heat 50g butter in a large deep pan handful of mixed chopped fresh mint,
over a medium-high heat, then add parsley and dill. Season, then spoon
350g mixed seasonal radishes, halved into a bowl. Chill, then serve with
or quartered depending on size. Turn a chilled bunch of breakfast radishes.
down the heat to medium and cook for
1 minute. Add 1 crushed garlic clove
and 100ml dry white wine. Turn up the
heat and bubble for 5 minutes until
4 Sherry-roasted radishes
Heat the oven to 200°C/180°C fan/
gas 6. Roast a few bunches of radishes
most of the liquid has evaporated. in a large roasting tray with a generous
Season, then stir in a large handful of glug of oil, a glug of dry sherry and a
mixed chopped fresh dill, parsley and couple of knobs of butter. Season and
mint. Serve warm. roast for 25-30 minutes until tender.

2 Quick radish pickle

Thinly slice a bunch of radishes,
put in a bowl and stir in 3 tbsp each
5 Radish, orange and
burrata salad
Slice a bunch of radishes, then toss in
red wine vinegar and caster sugar. a bowl with fresh orange segments,
Set aside for 10 minutes to infuse and rocket leaves and chopped spring
gently pickle, then stir in chopped onion. Drizzle with extra-virgin olive
fresh dill and a pinch of crushed pink oil and the juice of 1 lemon. Serve with
peppercorns to serve. burrata and a drizzle of balsamic glaze.
delicious moments.

3 Plan...
…a visit to St Andrew’s in Scotland, a town with cultural heart and soul.
Here’s an incentive: every Sunday after Chapel, university students do the Pier
Walk in their vibrant red gowns – come rain, snow or shine. It’s a great
spectacle, the fresh air is a tonic and anyone can join in. Incentive number
two: on 6 May there’s the Fife Food Festival, run by students to showcase
the best Scottish food and producers, all in aid of charity.; tickets £5

4 Get… 5 Do… …a spot of armchair gardening, browse seed websites such as the
…a full Diana Henry fix. Here’s how: cook inspiring or and plan some home-grown
her French-inspired menu on p64; hear her goodies to plant now, ready to harvest later. Even if you only have a sunny
talk about her life and travels at The windowsill you can grow herbs in pots and the smallest amount of outdoor
Stratford Literary Festival on 22 April space is enough to experiment with raising multi-hued beetroot and
(2.30pm, Stratford ArtsHouse; tickets £12; courgettes in a deep tub. So satisfying.
visit stratfordliterary for info

and to book); and


hear an Extra Portion

interview with her on
the delicious.
podcast in April.
Find the podcast
on iTunes, via the
podcast app or
at delicious
magazine. 5

116 24 37

APRIL 2018


by way of the Brazilian coast
ways to cook it for spring
chicken, stuffing and cauli cheese
102 IN THE delicious. KITCHEN Tips, tricks
26 SECRET HISTORIES The stories behind and know-how from our experts
classic recipes, with new versions
107 CHEF’S STEP BY STEP Chicken katsu curry
37 MEMORIES ARE MADE OF THIS The delicious. – a Japanese dude-food favourite
Recipe Jen Bedloe team cook dishes dear to their hearts
Photograph Stuart West
Food styling Rosie Ramsden 44 RECIPE HALL OF FAME Classic almond
Styling Victoria Eldridge macaroons, plus a choc-hazelnut twist
BROCCOLI Add colour and crunch to 8 delicious. ONLINE SHOP Our top picks
a Thai-style salad and a tasty starter
9 INBOX What’s on your mind this month?
51 GILL MELLER The River Cottage chef goes
10 FOR STARTERS Events, trends and news
into the woods for a bit of pigeon
12 WISH LIST The best things for food lovers
on the shelves right now
residence Ravinder Bhogal on caramel
64 DIANA HENRY The revered food writer 14 A SLICE OF MY LIFE GBBO’s Sophie Faldo
CORRECTION 16 FOOD HERO Severn & Wye Smokery
The photograph on our March shares a French menu and memories
cover was incorrectly credited 20 WE NEED TO TALK ABOUT... Columnist
to Gareth Morgans. The
photographer was Maja Smend James Martin’s Texan crowd-pleaser Kay Plunkett-Hogge salutes spring
recipe is rigorously tested
44 by our food team, using
state-of-the-art Fisher &
Paykel ovens and hobs,
so you can be confident
they work every time.
INGREDIENTS We aim to use
easy-to-find seasonal
ingredients. We’ll tell you
where to find any unusual
ingredients and/or what to
substitute them with.
We use higher-welfare
meat for testing, supplied
by The Ginger Pig

56 96 ✪ This symbol next to an

ingredient means there
are more ideas for using
it on our Loose Ends page.
Unlike many magazines,
our timings include
prep such as chopping.
34 THE NEW DINNER PARTY RULES Read them Hands-on time is when
you’re chopping, stirring
to ensure you get invited back… or frying. Oven/simmering
time is when you can
77 DRINKS Top wine picks plus premium gins with no leave the dish in the oven
94 THE SANE VIEW Are artificial sweeteners fads or false or on the hob.

as harmless as they say? health Indicates a vegetarian

recipe. Indicates a vegan
110 TEST REPORT On trial: a tapas cookery claims, just recipe. Indicates a
course, plus greek yogurt and more
nutritious gluten-free recipe.
recipes and Whenever you see
116 HUNGRY TRAVELLER Chefs on the places informed
KNOW- this symbol, you’ll
and dishes that have inspired them find useful extra
know-how information about the
122 GREAT ESCAPES Michelin-starred dining at recipe.

a glorious Cotswolds hotel 82 FRESH FROM THE FREEZER Midweek meals This symbol means
MAKE you’ll find an option
to make the most of frozen staples AHEAD
130 RANT Not a fan of no-bookings to make part or all
87 THE BUDGET RECIPE Honey and mustard of the recipe in advance.
restaurants? Join the queue
baked chicken and rice Indicates you can freeze
all or most of the recipe.
88 QUICK MEAL FOR ONE Crispy tortilla rice bowl Unless stated, freeze the
OTHER GOOD THINGS finished dish for up to
89 THE 5:2 RECIPE For fasting (and non-fasting) 3 months. Defrost and
78 SUBSCRIPTION OFFER Get your free copy of days: a prawn, vegetable and quinoa broth heat until piping hot.
90 BATCH-COOK RECIPE Make lots of lentil and Recipes are analysed for
106 NOMINATE AND WIN Hurry! Entries for the kidney bean dhal and serve it two ways nutritional content by an
delicious. Produce Awards end soon expert nutritionist. They’re
92 TAKE A PACK OF... cream cheese – then use it to calculated with precision
114 COOK AND WIN... A trio of chef’s knives but may vary, depending
make four easy weekday recipes on the ingredients used.
115 LOOSE ENDS Use up this month’s leftovers 96 IT’S ALL ABOUT BALANCE Meat-free, lower- Calculations include only
listed ingredients.
123 JUST FOR YOU Win a £5,000 Caribbean jaunt carb dishes packed with nutrition
PRICES are correct at
128 FOOD LOVER’S CROSSWORD 100 HEALTHY MAKEOVER Lighter cottage pie time of going to press.

in the know.

Our top choices

SHOP this month…
The delicious. online shop was created
to give small producers the route to market
many of them need – and to give you the
chance to buy their excellent products.
But there are plenty of beautiful homewares too.
Here are my top picks. MARTINE TINNEY, ART EDITOR

I’m a sucker for new
tea towels (my kitchen
drawer is full of them)
and I’m always on the
lookout for something
a bit funky. I love the
clean colours and
design of this range and
have bought two sets!
Scion Living by Dexam Mr
Fox tea towels, £15 for
a set of two, in two


In my dreams I’m all
set for summer with this
portable pizza oven, which
doubles as a barbie. It’s
not cheap but it’ll be the
star of my outdoor feasts.
Firepod portable stone-
baked pizza oven
in azure blue, £445

I always keep a bowl of
tomatoes on the side and
this mix from the Isle of
Wight is packed with
flavour. Tomato Stall
speciality mixed tomato
punnet, £1.95 for 250g


NOTE Delivery charges vary. See product information
on each item for details. Where items are chilled, delivery
prices are higher to cover the cost of fast delivery and
keep-cold packaging, but our producers are doing
everything they can to keep P&P to a minimum.
have your say.

Tell us what you think of

delicious. (good and bad)
or send your tips, pictures
and queries to:
Or write to us at: SUBJECT: Less is more SUBJECT: No
delicious. magazine,
STAR FROM: Genesta Gunn myths, no fads
Eye to Eye Media Ltd,
EMAIL How inspiring it was to read Julian Baggini’s FROM : Gill
Axe & Bottle Court, article “When ‘just saying no’ is a wise Walters
70 Newcomen Street, move” [March, p36]. Every year I give up sweet treats I was delighted
London SE1 1YT for Lent and am often quizzed: “I didn’t know you were to find the
religious” or “Is it to lose weight?” My reason is always article on
See what other the same: to reset my body and appreciate things. It’s Dr Aujla and
delicious. fans are too easy to nip into a coffee his philosophy on food in your
talking about at
deliciousmagazineuk shop and leave with a cake March issue [p108]. It’s exactly
and a drink with no thought what I believe: that food is our
Follow us at
deliciousmag that a treat has now become most important medication and
an everyday thing. During can prevent, relieve or even cure a
Follow us at instagram.
com/deliciousmag Lent I cook more, make my number of health conditions. The
lunches and appreciate the recipes look great, without the need
luxuries. The bad habits do to buy lots of strange ingredients
THIS sneak back, but when I ask: (which then sit in the cupboard
MONTH’S “Do I really need this?” most until the next clearout). I can’t wait
STAR of the time the answer is no. to try them – and to get the book.
prize from
Champagne SUBJECT: Oil change SUBJECT: Reproducing mum’s recipes
Gosset is FROM : Jane Pryor FROM : Michelle Turner
a selection of the house’s core
I was grateful for Sue I was amused to read about food writers
range, the Grande Réserve,
Grand Rosé and Grand Blanc Quinn’s article on the and chefs having varied experiences
de Blancs, beautifully best oils to cook with relating to their mother’s cooking
packaged in a gift box. [March, p104]. This [March, p20]. My mum makes several
Founded in 1584, Champagne
Gosset (the oldest champagne has confused me for great dishes but whenever I try to
house) uses its years of some time, and I’ve reproduce them, using her handwritten
experience to craft fine wines now pinned Professor recipes, they turn out looking or tasting
with great character, to Grootveld’s guide to quite different – she usually makes
serve with or without food. cooking oils on my alterations that she rarely writes down.
fridge. My husband I once asked her how to make a larger

always chuckles about quantity of her pea and ham soup. Her
what he calls “health response was to multiply the ingredients by four. I took this literally
WIN! £50 fads” and has never
stopped using butter
and added four times the 60g butter required. I love butter but this
was a serious overdose. When I called her she laughed and said, “Of
SAINSBURY’S (his motto is course you don’t multiply the butter by four!” When I cook her

“everything in recipes now, I refer to a similar one to cross-check the ingredient

Great recipes need great moderation”). Having quantities and cooking times. So thanks, Mum, for helping me to
ingredients. For your chance said that, he did agree develop my own unique style – with a few hiccups along the way!
to win £50 Sainsbury’s
vouchers, solve the cryptic
to me binning a
clue on the magazine spine, half-used bottle of What YOU’VE been making this month...
then email your answer, with sunflower oil.
your name, full UK mainland
address and phone number,
to info@deliciousmagazine. Competition entry
closes 30 April 2018.
Vouchers can be used in
stores only (see p129 for Maple syrup & smoked Harissa beef with Classic ragù & Sausage, fennel & chilli
Ts&Cs). February’s cryptic bacon scones crispy potatoes mozzarella pasta bake griddle-pan pizza
clue solution: marjoram @palola31 @dinneratthecartmas Biagio Amata Lindsey Lax 9


Do you dream of a career in £45,000! 1564 William
cookery but don’t know how Shakespeare was born
in Stratford-upon-
to get started? Renowned Avon on 26 April. The
culinary school Le Cordon Bleu playwright often referenced food
is offering a place for an and drink, famously observing in
Romeo and Juliet: “’Tis an ill cook
aspiring chef on its prestigious that cannot lick his own fingers.”
one-year Grand Diplôme in
London with the launch of
a new scholarship.
1789 A mutiny took
place on Royal Navy
Designed to support someone looking for a career change, the Julia Child Scholarship ship Bounty when the
is inspired by the celebrated American cook, writer and Le Cordon Bleu alumnus, who went captain William Bligh
to train as a chef in Paris after working as a copywriter. The prize includes an internship was set adrift in the
South Pacific on 28
at London restaurant Mere with chef Monica Galetti, plus mentorship from several Cordon April during a voyage
Bleu alumni. Student accommodation agency Londonist will also provide the winner with to collect breadfruit
a plush room in the capital for the duration of the course. trees from Tahiti.
HURRY! Applications close midnight 18 April. The winner will be chosen in June to start the diploma
in September 2018. For more info and to enter, visit 1912 Oysters,
roast squab and
Waldorf pudding
were served in
DID YOU KNOW…? first class at the
How often Since being invented in the USA last dinner on the

do you cook from the in 1967, Pringles have been made in

more than 100 flavours. Although
Titanic before it hit
an iceberg at 11.40pm on 14 April

FREEZER? XTRA Tangy Buffalo Wing and

and sunk three hours later.

Memphis BBQ went down a storm, it

Brits are devoted to their freezers. Over wasn’t that way with Mayo Potato or 1944 Alice Waters
Blueberry & Hazelnut which, once was born on 28 April
90% of us depend on its frozen assets to in New Jersey. In
whip up meals on a weekly basis. Here’s popped, could easily be stopped.
1971 she started
how often you dip in there… organic Californian
restaurant Chez Panisse.
3% Now world-famous, it’s
been credited with founding
12% 5%

This m th the delicious. podcast celebrates Easter in
AND HERE’S WHAT WE’RE MOST LIKELY TO Rome, and finds out how to make proper Italian gelato.
KEEP STASHED AWAY… Author Skye McAlpine invites you to her ‘Table in Venice’
L Frozen vegetables (peas, sweetcorn) 76% and you can find out how social enterprise Bread For Life is helping to
LFrozen chips 66% feed the hungry in Syria. Plus: Oliver Rowe reveals how he’s bringing fine
LIce cream 58% dining back to Devon’s Dartington Hall and chef Theo Randall shares
LChicken nuggets/fish fingers 56% a slice of his life. DON’T MISS your weekly Extra Portions of interviews
Turn to p82 for recipes from the freezer and food stories, too. Find the podcasts on iTunes or the Podcast app,
or visit
in the know.

Modern seafood APRIL & MAY
12-15 APRIL
Restaurateur James London Coffee Festival
London’s Old Truman
Ramsden goes Brewery is host to Europe’s
trawling for the Snappy largest celebration of the
capital’s tastiest platter dark stuff with more than
piscine nibbles at The 250 exhibitors. Watch beans
Oystermen being roasted, create your
With eating habits trending away own latte art, taste blends
from all-out, red-in-tooth-and-claw and learn to brew the perfect
carnivorousness, those who nonetheless prefer Prawn on the Lawn’s (; see cup. Don’t miss baristas
competing to be Coffee
animal-based protein might be pleased to see p113) charming rustic sensibilities and eclectic
Master 2018 (awarded on
how fresh the new London fish scene is. menu that may include crab som tam, sichuan Sunday). From £14.50;
If you’re one of these flexi-pescy folk – or prawns and mackerel with ‘nduja.
indeed you just love fish – then I’d first head to More intrepid diners might want to take a run
Parsons ( in Covent at London Shell Co (, a barge 21-22 APRIL
Bishop Auckland Food
Garden. Start with brown shrimp croquettes and restaurant on Regent’s Canal. The set menu is Festival, County Durham
crab pissaladière, then get elbow-deep in the simple – devilled crab, mackerel with sprouting Regional produce, tempting
fish pie. Drink weissburgunder. Thank me later. broccoli, chilli and almonds – but the sourcing street food and stars such
as Phil Vickery and GBBO
Nearby is The Oystermen (, a and cooking are top drawer. The esoteric Gilly’s
winner Candice Brown are
haven for seafood lovers with its daily-changing Fry Bar ( in Finsbury Park is an on the menu here. From
oysters and dishes that include grilled octopus Anglo-Japanese chip shop serving battered 17-20 April the festival will
with harissa and lemon, and skate wing with sausage, curry sauce chip butties, fish tempura visit schools and leisure
centres in the area to
hazelnuts and lardo. Head north to Highbury for and fried prawn heads. Weird and wonderful. demonstrate healthy recipes
and promote food knowledge.
Entry free, cookery theatre
tickets £5; bishopauckland


In partnership with Great Taste food awards, The Seed 28-29 APRIL
Adam’s Liverpool Spring Festival
Chocolate, Fund is offering 12 fledgling food and drink Enjoy food for every palate
the 2016 businesses a place on their summer Seed Academy and pocket at this seasonal
winner programme, with mentoring by Planet Organic celebration at Sefton Park,
founder Renée Elliott and John Farrand, head of the from vegan junk food to fresh
oysters, plus lots of local
Guild of Fine Food. After the workshops/seminars produce to try. There’ll be
the business with the best pitch will win a year of lifestyle workshops too,
support worth £100,000. The 2017 champion, Firepot including yoga, gardening,
knitting and meditation, to
by Outdoorfood, has been expanding since its win,
help you enjoy spring to the
while 2016 winner Adam’s Chocolate is now stocked full. From £7; springliverpool
in stores including Wholefoods. It’s a chance to turn
your seedling venture into a fruitful business.
Entrants must have been trading for less than three 5-7 MAY
Exeter Festival of South
years with a turnover of less than £1 million per year. West Food & Drink
Entries close 30 April and the Seed Academy class More than 100 producers
of 2018 will be announced in May. will fill Exeter’s castle
courtyard and Northernhay
PS Can’t wait to get started ? Gardens for the weekend.
Exeter-born chef Michael
The School of Artisan Food is launching a new Artisan Business Start-Up Certificate, Caines will head up demos
taught by enterprise expert and The Seed Fund mentor Yvonne O’Donovan. Based between and there’ll be story-telling
Sheffield and Nottingham, the course covers core areas of small business knowledge. The and cookery classes for the
certificate requires the completion of five modules, which include finance, operations and kids. Music each evening
will feature more local
writing and pitching a business plan. Need to clue up on a certain area? Modules can be talent, plus street food.
mixed and matched too, to suit your needs. From £595 per module; From £8; exeterfoodand 11
These pages are about us doing the hard
work so you don’t have to. We’re sent anything
from 40 to 100 new products a month, and we
really do try them all: tasting, smelling the
aromas, testing gadgets. Only if they’re useful, good-
looking and value for money do they get the delicious. Top that one
Have you ever burnt your worktop? I have – and I’m
seal of approval. KAREN BARNES, EDITOR
living with the expensive mistake. Here’s a way to stop
it happening: a (recycled) shatterproof glass worktop
saver with gripper feet to stop it slipping. There are
several designs available including mackerel and

Seasoned a chicken, but I quite like this portly crab.

30cm worktop saver, £24,
with time
In Jenny Linford’s new book
The Missing Ingredient the ADDICTION
ingredient in question is ALERT
time – something we Not sure what to say about
generally spend energy these apart from… Phwoar!
trying to save rather than Little bites of peanut-buttery,
savour. By talking to chefs caramelly, milk chocolatey
and producers and by gorgeousness. They’re
looking at techniques key to addictive but they’re also
a recipe’s success, Jenny super-rich so one is as good
considers how time makes a marked difference to flavour. as a feast – as my Welsh
Fascinating and thought-provoking. £18.99; Particular Books grandma used to say.
Caramel peanut bites,


For freshness in a bowl, these are the 2 FREE FROM WORTHINESS
So much gluten-free pasta 3 A BREATH OF FRESH AIR
I like the look of these neat tins – small

soups to try. They’re created by friends is wholly unpleasant, enough to keep in bag or pocket without
Cullen Allen and Colum O’Sullivan (Cully especially in texture, but being too bulky or heavy. More
and Sully) and the flavours are balanced not this pumpkin & sage importantly, I like the taste of the breath-
and vibrant. Our favourite is pea and raviolini by Ugo Thrive. freshening mints
mint – it has The sage is just subtle – particularly the
the real taste enough not to eclipse the chai flavour.
of buttery sweet earthiness of the Worth a try.
peas. pumpkin. £3 for 250g from Vermints, £2.99
£1.50 for 400g, Sainsbury’s, Waitrose, for 40g, hollandand
Tesco Ocado and Booths

in the know.

Activated asset
Seeds and nuts from Boundless
are ‘activated’. What does that
mean? Apparently it involves
soaking them to kickstart the
germination process (unleashing,
it’s claimed, more of the goodness
within). They’re then roasted with
flavourings such as orange, ginger
& maple or cayenne & rosemary.
The science of the benefits of
activated nuts/seeds is “Your good
complicated but the point is they
taste good. £2.20 for 30g, Ocado
In the 18th century people drank
small beer (beer low in alcohol)
DELIZIOSO! instead of water because it was
Fresh mozzarella at its best is safer. The phrase endured and is
delightful; at its worst it’s rubbery and used today to denote something
pointless. Get the good stuff from insignificant. Now small beer has
online Italian shop Top been reinvented for those seeking
pick is Buffalo Delicacy Mozzarella a lighter drink, rather than for
(£9.75 for 500g) – so pleasingly pillowy those seeking to avoid cholera.
and yielding. Also look out for the Developed by clever people,
Puglian Burrata (£2.60 for 125g) and formerly of gin pioneers Sipsmith,
excellent salamis, Italian flours and and sold in fetching stubbies,
fresh yeast – useful. Use the code DL5 at there are two beers. The regular
checkout and get 10% off until 30 April lager (2.1%, or just 0.7 units per
(minimum order £30). See p129 for Ts&Cs bottle) has a good hop quality
and it’s a refreshing choice if you
want to ease back on the booze.
Serving suggestion You could, of course, live like
There’s no doubting this is a beautiful set – and it comes boxed so it makes a fine a Georgian and drink it instead of
gift, too. Designed for serving sushi, complete with chopsticks and dipping water, but it may be frowned upon
bowls, the elegant porcelain plates work just as well for handing round canapés in meetings… £2.85 for 33cl, Majestic
at a party or as small platters for, say, a tomato and mozzarella salad. Smart. stores;
Tokyo Design Studio Nippon plate gift set, £40,

You can never
have too many
Really, you can’t.
And my new
‘thou shall covet’
moment is this
smart specimen
with top quality
paper from Poach
My Lobster.


TOP Sophie loves the
art of baking; her
next competition will
involve track cycling
in LA; she’s on a fine

dining mission; Prue
Leith inspires her;
novel ingredients
are a challenge

2017’s Great British Bake Of winner

reveals her fondness for patisserie,
competitive cycling – and Prue Leith


I think some people find baking therapeutic but for me
it’s all about the creativity. When I was younger I did
a lot of salt-dough modelling and those skills translate
well into sugar-craft. I just love the beauty of baking.


I started baking after I left my role as an Army officer in
the Royal Artillery. Initially I decorated cakes and gave
them to family and friends as presents. Then I bought
William Curley’s book Patisserie and that was massive
for me. It took things up several levels.

I’m a track cyclist but didn’t compete in 2017 because
of Bake Off. This year I’ll be off to LA in October to
compete in the UCI Track Cycling World Championships
– if I get up to fitness, that is! I’ll be eating lots of protein
because there’s a big emphasis on gym work to build
power. The plus side is that if we go on a long training
ride there’s always a cake stop somewhere… You’re
burning up about 1,700 calories, so you’re entitled.



My boyfriend David is a chef and in our free time we’re
gradually ticking off the long list of restaurants he
wants to go to – when we have the money. On the last
occasion we went to Social by Heinz Beck in the
Waldorf Astoria, Dubai. It was a cracking meal.

I like being experimental. I can go to the market and
pick up a quince, a pomegranate and a custard apple
and find something to make with them (although
I struggled with the custard apple!).

I loved being in the Bake Off tent. Sandi and Noel were
fantastic. They put us at our ease and it’s clear there’s
a chemistry between them. I’m a big Prue Leith fan too.
She’s definitely not a pushover and I like that.

Smoked haddock the
way it used to be
Severn & Wye Smokery won a delicious. Produce Award for its outstanding,
sustainable oak-smoked haddock. Susan Low travels to Gloucestershire to discover how
a traditional British ingredient has reclaimed its place as a breakfast of champions

he smoke billowing from the kiln their wild salmon, says Richard. “When sources and practices.” Now, all Severn &
is heavy with the aromas of oak they compiled the Domesday Book of Wye Smokery’s haddock is MSC-certified.
forests. It’s a scent that’s almost 1086 they recorded the salmon as an asset
as ancient as human civilisation, yet as for the Severn. So it was a huge fishery.” THE TRUTH IS IN THE TASTING
comfortingly familiar as a posh cooked Severn & Wye use large fillets from mature,
breakfast. His head still wreathed in trails A SHRINKING RESOURCE line-caught haddock from Iceland, Norway
of smoke, Richard Cook of Severn & Wye The company was founded on local salmon and the Faroe Islands. Once smoked, they
Smokery wheels a tray of haddock fresh and another delicacy – eels. “Initially what have burnished flesh that falls away in large
from the kiln. After two-and-a-half hours put us here was the salmon and the glass flakes when lightly poached, with that
of smoking the pearly-white flesh has eels,” Richard recalls, referring to the elvers just-so balance of oak smoke and salt.
turned a beautiful burnished golden colour. (young eels) that frequent the river. “But Severn & Wye’s smoked haddock is
“When they come out they have a lovely we realised wild salmon was a shrinking served at the Savoy (fittingly, as the chefs
sheen and a firm elasticity. You know resource. By the mid-1990s you could see there invented omelette Arnold Bennett –
when it feels right,” Richard explains as the salmon fishing community getting see p28) as well as The Berkeley, Bibendum
he talks me through the process. The fresh older. The fishing season was being cut, and Restaurant Martin Wishart in
(never frozen) haddock fillets, which are there were reduced quotas and higher Edinburgh, among others.
certified as sustainable by the Marine licence fees. It wasn’t going anywhere.” Like roast beef, bangers and scones,
Stewardship Council, are first brined, Richard is keen on conservation and smoked fish is a defining British dish – just
then the fillets are laid onto metal racks, knows that the changes to the fishery’s imagine how diminished life would be
put in the kiln and smoked over a mix quotas and licence fees have been made without kippers or kedgeree. Richard
of oak chips from trees felled on the with the best of intentions but they forced agrees, explaining, “We wanted smoked
property and chips from whisky barrels. his hand. “We’ll do all we can to maintain haddock to return to what it used to be –
Salt, fish, smoke and time are the only the fishery but we also need to survive a favourite breakfast choice served with
ingredients. There are no ourselves; so we turned to stacks of hot buttered toast.” Richard Cook’s
artificial dyes used here. farmed salmon, farmed eel...” smoked haddock is made with so much
Despite all the stainless Richard and his team have love and care that it will ensure its place at
steel, dials and gauges, also smoked haddock for the breakfast table – and the lunch, brunch
the process of smoking decades but a few years back and dinner table for that matter. →
fish is at its core a simple he realised more could be
one and dates back done on the sustainability
thousands of years in this front. “I felt that the market WHERE TO BUY
part of the world. for smoked haddock was The Barn at Severn & Wye (Chaxhill,
As its name suggests, becoming a race to the Westbury-on-Severn, Gloucestershire
Severn & Wye Smokery is bottom. It was all about GL14 1QW) sells local produce as well
located between the two ‘How can we produce this as the company’s smoked fish. You can
famous rivers, not far cheaply, to meet a certain also order on 01452 760191 or at severn
from the Forest of Dean. price point?’ So we switched (shop coming soon).
Both rivers are famed for our production to sustainable

meet the producer.


“The fish has big,

beautiful flakes, with
a flavour that’s not
too salty and not too
smoky – the perfect


once used salmon from the TURN THE PAGE TO FIND A RECIPE MADE
River Severn but now it’s his
haddock, smoked using oak USING SEVERN & WYE SMOKERY’S
chips, that wins plaudits WONDERFUL OAK-SMOKED HADDOCK
meet the producer.

Smoked haddock and

jersey royal stew

• 15g unsalted butter

• Good drizzle olive oil
• 4 onions, finely sliced
• 1 large garlic clove, thickly sliced
• 6 pink peppercorns
• ½ tsp coriander seeds, crushed
• ½ tsp ground turmeric
• 80g pancetta
• 300g jersey royals or other waxy
potatoes such as charlotte
• 650ml good quality fish or chicken
stock (preferably homemade)
• 1kg oak-smoked MSC haddock
fillets, skinned and bones
removed (where possible)
• 100g baby leaf spinach
• Crème fraîche to serve (optional)

1 Heat the butter and oil in a large

sauté pan (use one with a lid) or
flameproof casserole, then gently
fry the onions for 20 minutes with
the garlic, peppercorns, coriander
seeds, turmeric and plenty of black
pepper. Cover the pan with a lid and
stir occasionally.
2 Meanwhile, slice the pancetta,
quarter the potatoes and warm the
fish stock. When the onions have
softened and are gaining a little
colour (after 8-10 minutes), add the

pancetta and potatoes, then the fish
stock. Bring to the boil, stir, then
simmer for 20 minutes or until the
potatoes feel tender when pierced
with a sharp knife. Top with the
smoked fish and spinach, then
cover with the lid and cook for
8-10 minutes more or until the
fish is lightly steamed and the
spinach is wilted.
3 Evenly divide the fish and the
WHO ARE YOUR FOOD HEROES? stew among 6 shallow bowls, then
We’re seeking the brightest top each with a spoonful of crème
and best food producers from
fraîche to serve, if you like.
around the UK. Tell us your
favourite artisanal food PER SERVING 322kcals, 12g fat
producer or, if you’re a (3.7g saturated), 42.7g protein,
NEXT producer yourself, enter 9.5g carbs (7.4g sugars), 2.7g salt,
MONTH at 2.6g fibre
Ampersand Nominations are now OPEN! WINE EDITOR’S CHOICE Spain’s
cultured butter albariño is the white for this with its
crisp, refreshing but fruity style.
Fisher & Paykel hob CI905DTB3

Top-quality ingredients are the diference between dishes tasting okay and being excellent.
And with a state-of-the-art Fisher & Paykel hob, those dishes will be cooked to perfection

Q uality is so important when you cook – from

the ingredients you choose to the equipment
you use. The same applies to your
appliances: swapping a standard hob for a state-of-
Prawns in tomato The new prawn cocktail
the-art one can take your cooking to the next level. and garlic sauce As a change from the classic
Fisher & Paykel’s premium hobs come in a variety Gently warm a glug of extra- dish, serve whole griddled
of sizes and configurations to suit every kitchen. The virgin olive oil in a frying pan langoustines with a Korean-style
Touch&Slide 90cm 5-zone SmartZone induction with chopped garlic, chopped red marie rose dip. Here’s how:
hob gives you a spacious cooking area with five chilli and a large handful of
cooking zones – great for cooking for a crowd. Its halved cherry tomatoes. Add sea Mix 2 crushed garlic cloves,
dual zone automatically detects the size of your salt and a pinch of sugar, then 3 tbsp sriracha sauce or
cookware and the zones can be bridged to form two gently simmer for 5 minutes. Toss gochujang, 1 tbsp ketchup,
SmartZones. Touch&Slide allows for easy, precision through fresh peeled king prawns 1 tbsp maple syrup, 1 tbsp lime
control of each zone. If you’re looking for something or langoustines, then cook gently juice, 1 tbsp soy sauce, 1 tbsp
smaller, the Touch&Slide 60cm 4-zone SmartZone for 3-4 minutes or until cooked. toasted sesame oil and 4 tbsp
also allows you to bridge cooking zones. Scatter over freshly chopped mayo. Brush the langoustines
Prefer gas? The 90cm gas on steel cooktop with flatleaf parsley and fresh with vegetable oil and cook in a
five burners will sit flush with your kitchen bench, oregano leaves and add a good medium-hot griddle pan for
while glowing dials show which burners are lit. squeeze of lemon, then serve 3 minutes on each side. Serve
And if a flame goes out, the gas turns off for safety. with crusty bread. with the Korean-style dip.
Once you’ve picked the perfect hob, try these
great seafood dishes (right) to experience the
versatility of your new Fisher & Paykel appliance – Discover the full Fisher & Paykel hob range at
you won’t be disappointed.
food for thought.


She’s not one to sufer from Seasonal Afective Disorder, but this
month, columnist Kay Plunkett-Hogge can feel her sap rising

SPRING FEVER garlicky-spicy oil dribbles down your chin.

‘O, to be in England/Now that April’s As for oysters, I’m old-fashioned enough
there…’ wrote Robert Browning. Given to stick to the diktat of not eating them
that he was in northern Italy at the time, when there’s no R in the month, native or
where spring is spectacularly beautiful, not, at least in the UK. Somehow it doesn’t
I suspect he must have forgotten how cold bother me in France or Thailand. Or
and wet it can be – ‘ne’er cast a clout till anywhere else for that matter. But here it
May be out’ and all that. does. I predict an end-of-April dash to West
I adore spring, and April is possibly my Mersea for two dozen of Richard Haward’s
very favourite month. Buds pop up their finest native oysters before the season ends.
heads, ready to burst with promise. The I won’t be eating them again until today’s
sun glimmers between the showers. blossom has turned to fruit. Now, that’s
Everyone seems a little lighter and brighter. season. It’s like the vegetable version of something else to look forward to…
All I can think about is scoffing as many pre-season training. But where asparagus
native oysters as I can before their season cries out for hollandaise, PSB’s glorious WELLNESS EXPERTS
ends, and (as those first young vegetables florets can catch and hold a finer emulsion. Encountering a wellness expert would not,
appear in the shops) eating dishes like Think warm olive oil infused with chilli I suspect, be something to look forward
navarin of lamb and spring veg – oh, and and loads of garlic, into which you melt to. What exactly is a wellness expert?
lots of purple sprouting broccoli (see p48). anchovies, then finish with a scattering of Answers on a postcard please, to delicious.
Sometimes I think purple sprouting lemon zest. Dip in the steamed broccoli HQ… I know when I’m well. I know when
broccoli exists to warm us up for asparagus head-first and devour it as the salty- I am not. Ergo, I am a wellness expert.



grandfather of tequila. Tequila is only from Diana Henry (see p64 and p78). It’s OF JOHN THOMSON at London’s Brunei
made with blue agave, whereas mezcal packed with her beautiful writing, lush Gallery (,
uses any agave, which makes for more recipes and wonderful storytelling. It’s opening on 13 April. He was the first
variety. It’s smoky, earthy and mellow, inspirational. In fact, it was her Crazy photographer to visit Angkor Wat (in the
and great with lime juice, agave syrup, Water, Pickled Lemons from 2002 1860s) and he created an extensive
a little muddled chilli and soda. that made me want to write about food. photographic record. Must-see stuff.



It has an undeserved reputation as a tricky
dish but risotto is easily put together
from storecupboard items: rice, stock,
butter and parmesan. Here, we push the boat out
with a creamy goat’s cheese number, an all-in-one
crowdpleaser made with chicken and bacon and
our cover star, a vibrant celebration of spring

Goat’s cheese
and sun-dried
tomato risotto,
• 2 tbsp rapeseed oil Goat’s cheese & sun-dried
• Juice 1 lemon tomato risotto
• Large handful fresh parsley leaves SERVES 4-6. HANDS-ON TIME 40 MIN

1 For the pea purée, put the frozen • 2 tbsp olive oil, plus extra to brush
peas in a heatproof bowl and defrost • 1 large onion, finely chopped
by covering with boiling water for 30 • 1 large celery stick, finely chopped
seconds (see tips). Drain and transfer • 1.2 litres fresh vegetable stock
to a blender or food processor and • 350g risotto rice
whizz with the spinach, rapeseed • 200ml dry white wine
oil, lemon and parsley until smooth. • 25g parmesan or vegetarian
Season with salt and pepper. alternative, grated
2 Heat the 2 tbsp olive oil in a large, • 100g goat’s curd (we like
heavy-based pan and gently cook Ribblesdale) or soft goat’s cheese
the chopped white part of the spring • 100g sun-dried tomatoes (from a
onions, celery and asparagus stalks jar), roughly chopped
until softened (about 10 minutes). • Large handful rocket
The taste of spring Meanwhile, put the stock in a pan • 200g rinded goat’s cheese log, cut
in risotto form and gently heat until hot but not into 4 even discs (we used 2 x 100g
boiling. Keep warm on a low heat. Capricorn goat’s cheeses)
3 Stir the rice into the vegetables • A few fresh basil leaves
COVER STAR to coat the grains in the oil, then
Asparagus, pea & cook for 1-2 minutes more. Pour 1 Heat the oil in a large, deep heavy-
mint risotto in the wine, bring up to a fast based frying pan or sauté pan and
SERVES 4-6. HANDS-ON TIME 40 MIN simmer and cook until most of the gently fry the onion and celery with
wine has evaporated. Start adding a pinch of salt for about 10 minutes
If you’re vegetarian, swap a litre of stock a ladleful at a time, until softened. Meanwhile, heat the
TEAM’S the anchovies for capers or stirring often, only adding more stock in a pan until simmering, then
chopped olives, and use once the liquid has been absorbed keep warm on a low heat.
a vegetarian hard cheese. by the rice. (This should take 2 Stir the rice into the onion and
When fresh peas are in season, around 20 minutes.) celery and cook for 1-2 minutes.
use them instead of frozen. 4 Meanwhile, make a salsa: chop Pour in the wine, bring up to a fast
the reserved green part of the simmer and bubble until the wine has
• 2 tbsp olive oil spring onions and mix in a bowl with mostly evaporated. Start adding the
• Bunch spring onions, white parts the mint, anchovies, extra-virgin stock, a ladleful at a time, stirring
and green parts separated and olive oil, lemon zest and juice. often, only adding more stock once
finely chopped (we used some red Add salt and pepper to taste. the liquid has been absorbed. Keep
spring onions for colour) 5 If the rice is still hard after it has adding stock until the rice is tender
• 1 large celery stick, finely chopped absorbed a litre of stock, stir in a (you may not need it all; this should
• 300g bunch asparagus, stalks little more. As the rice is starting take around 20 minutes). Heat the
finely sliced and tips reserved to become plump and tender, about grill to medium.
• 1-1.25 litres fresh chicken or 5 minutes before the end of the 3 Stir the grated cheese, goat’s curd
vegetable stock (see tips) cooking time, stir in the asparagus (or soft goat’s cheese), sun-dried
• 350g risotto rice tips, peas and pea purée, then cook tomatoes and rocket into the risotto.
• 200ml dry white wine until the rice is tender. Taste and add salt and black pepper.
• Bunch fresh mint, finely chopped 6 Stir in the butter and pecorino, 4 Brush the goat’s cheese discs with
• 3 anchovy fillets in oil, finely taste, season and serve with the olive oil, put on a baking sheet and
chopped (see tips) mint salsa for drizzling over. grill for 5 minutes until golden. Serve
• 3 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil PER SERVING (FOR 6) 513kcals, the risotto topped with the grilled
• Grated zest and juice 1 lemon 20.1g fat (8.1g saturated), 15.5g cheese, scattered with the basil.
• 200g frozen peas (see tips) protein, 58.1g carbs (5.8g sugars), PER SERVING (FOR 6) 501kcals,
• 50g butter 1.1g salt, 6.7g fibre 18.6g fat (8.5g saturated), 16.6g
• 75g pecorino, grated WINE EDITOR’S CHOICE Match the protein, 59.2g carbs (8.9g sugars),
green flavours with a herby white 2.3g salt, 2.8g fibre
MONTH FOR THE PEA PURÉE such as Italy’s pecorino or verdicchio. WINE EDITOR’S CHOICE French
Three magical • 200g frozen peas (see tips) For more ways to use pecorino, sauvignon blanc or Italian soave
ways with pesto • 100g spinach see Loose Ends are mouthwatering partners here.


Oven-baked chicken, • 750ml chicken or vegetable stock 3 Stir the browned chicken and bacon
bacon & barley risotto • 50g butter into the rice and pour in 700ml of the
SERVES 4-6. HANDS-ON TIME 20 MIN, OVEN • 50g parmesan, grated, plus extra stock. Stir to combine, then bring up
TIME 25 MIN shavings to serve to the boil, cover with the lid,
• Handful parsley leaves to serve transfer to the oven and bake for 25
If you don’t have any sherry minutes or until everything is tender
TEAM’S open, use dry white wine or 1 Heat the oven to 200°C/180°C fan/ and all the liquid has been absorbed.
even 100ml vodka instead. gas 6. Heat a splash of the oil in a 4 When the rice is tender, stir in the
large casserole (use one with a lid) butter, parmesan and remaining
• 2-3 tbsp olive oil and fry the chicken and bacon until 50ml stock. Taste and add salt and
• 4 free-range skinless chicken browned. Set aside. Heat a splash black pepper to taste. Serve
thigh fillets, cut into chunks more oil in the pan if needed and scattered with the parmesan
• 200g smoked bacon lardons gently fry the shallots, celery and shavings and the parsley leaves.
• 2 banana shallots, sliced carrot with a pinch of salt for about PER SERVING (FOR 6) 531kcals,
• 1 large celery stick, finely chopped 10 minutes until softened. 22g fat (9.3g saturated), 23.4g
• 1 large carrot, finely chopped 2 Stir in the rosemary and cook for protein, 49.7g carbs (2.6g sugars),
• 4 fresh rosemary sprigs, leaves a minute, then stir in the rice and 1.8g salt, 1.9g fibre
picked and chopped barley and cook for 1-2 minutes. WINE EDITOR’S CHOICE A ripe,
• 175g risotto rice Add the sherry and bring up to a fast fruity white such as fiano from
• 175g pearl barley simmer, then cook until almost all Sicily is spot on, as is an Australian
• 200ml fino sherry (see tip) the sherry has evaporated. chardonnay-semillon blend.

Simon Hopkinson’s Roast Chicken and Other Stories* FOR THE DUKKAH
is one of my favourite cookbooks and his roast chicken • 100g shelled hazelnuts
recipe is legendary. He uses lots of butter, lemon, garlic and • 2 tbsp each cumin, coriander and
herbs, creating a wonderful lemony jus. I’ve used those fennel seeds
• 4 tbsp sesame seeds
flavours here but combined them in a stuffing to serve
alongside. The dish works a treat with my updated, dukkah- 1 Heat the oven to 190°C/170°C fan/gas 5.
topped cauliflower cheese. DAN DOHERTY, CHEF DIRECTOR, DUCK & WAFFLE Toast the cumin and coriander in a small dry
pan for 2 minutes, then set aside. Put the
Roast chicken with buttery food processor whizz the bread slices to milk, onion, clove, cinnamon, a pinch of salt
stuing balls chunky crumbs, then add 150ml of the and the bay in a pan and bring to a simmer.
SERVES 6. HANDS-ON TIME 30 MIN, OVEN TIME reserved juices, the shallots and the garlic Turn the heat to low; infuse for 20 minutes.
1 HOUR 40-45 MIN from the chicken cavity (squeezed from the 2 For the dukkah, toast the hazelnuts for
skins). Whizz with the sausagemeat, parsley, 2-3 minutes in a dry non-stick frying pan
• 1.8-2kg British free-range chicken egg and seasoning until just combined. Roll over a medium heat until just starting to
• 120g unsalted butter, softened and shape into 12 x 4cm balls. turn golden, then add all the seeds and
• 1 lemon 4 Put the stuffing balls in the roasting tin toast for 2 minutes until fragrant. Tip into
• Several fresh thyme sprigs and bake for 30 minutes. Serve with the a mini food processor or pestle and mortar
• 3 garlic cloves, left whole and unpeeled chicken and cauliflower cheese, if making. and whizz/grind to a coarse mixture.
• 3 shallots, peeled and halved PER SERVING 480kcals, 26g fat (13.2g 3 Break the cauliflowers into florets and
• 4 x 1cm thick slices bread saturated), 49.1g protein, 12.1g carbs put in a large baking dish. Toss with a little
• 100g British free-range sausagemeat (1.2g sugars), 0.9g salt, 1g fibre sunflower oil and a pinch of salt, then roast
• Large pinch chopped fresh parsley WINE EDITOR’S CHOICE A white Burgundy, (with the chicken, if you’re serving them
• 1 medium free-range egg ideally a ripe southern mâcon. together) for about 25 minutes until golden.
4 Strain the infused milk into a jug (discard
1 Heat the oven to 230°C/210°C fan/gas 8. Spiced cauliflower cheese the solids). Melt the butter in a pan on a low
Put the chicken in a roasting tin and rub SERVES 6-8. HANDS-ON TIME 40 MIN. OVEN TIME heat, then stir in the flour and keep stirring


the butter all over it. Season well with salt 20-25 MIN, PLUS INFUSING for 2-3 minutes until it smells biscuity. Add
and pepper and squeeze over the juice the toasted cumin and coriander, gradually
of the lemon. Put the thyme and garlic • 1 tsp ground cumin whisk in the infused milk until smooth,
inside the chicken cavity along with the • 1 tsp ground coriander then simmer for 10 minutes. Heat the grill
squeezed-out lemon halves, then tuck the • 1 litre whole milk (if you have one).
shallots under the chicken. • ½ onion 5 Stir in the Lancashire cheese until melted,
2 Roast for 10-15 minutes, baste with the • 1 clove then add the cream. Grate in some nutmeg
juices, then turn the oven down to 190°C/ • 1 cinnamon stick and add the chilli flakes (if using).
170°C fan/gas 5 and roast for 60 minutes • 1 bay leaf 6 Pour the cheese sauce over the roasted
more, basting occasionally, until the chicken • 2 small cauliflowers cauliflower and sprinkle the grated cheddar
juices run clear when pierced in the • Drizzle sunflower oil on top. Grill the cauliflower cheese for
thickest part of the thigh with a skewer (or • 50g butter about 10 minutes until golden brown on top
a digital probe thermometer reads 75°C). • 50g plain flour (if you don’t have a grill, bake in the oven
Transfer the roasted chicken to a plate or • 100g Lancashire cheese for 20-25 minutes with the stuffing for the
board, loosely cover with foil and leave to • 75ml double cream chicken). Sprinkle with the dukkah to serve.
rest while you make the stuffing. • Whole nutmeg for grating PER SERVING (FOR 8) 459kcals, 35.8g fat
3 Pour the buttery juices from the tin into • Pinch chilli flakes (optional) (14.3g saturated), 16.5g protein, 15.5g
a jug and set aside with the shallots. In a • 25g cheddar cheese, grated carbs (9.1g sugars), 0.5g salt, 4.5g fibre

weekend highlight.

MEET DAN He’s well known as

the chef director of London’s
Duck & Waffle restaurants and
has authored two cookbooks.
This spring Dan will be a judge
on the new BBC One programme
Britain’s Best Cook, alongside
Mary Berry and TV greengrocer
Chris Bavin, with Claudia
Winkleman as host.
Some famous people are immortalised by a statue or blue plaque on a
building. But, in our book at least, the real winners ensure their fame
echoes down the ages by having a dish named after them. Rebecca
Woollard discovers the stories behind some of our best-loved
dishes and gives these classics a new twist while she’s at it


This smoked haddock omelette was created by chefs at
London’s Savoy hotel in the 1920s for the author and critic
Arnold Bennett, who stayed at the hotel while he was writing
Imperial Palace. Bennett, it seems, had strong ideas about what
comprised the ideal omelette, so the Savoy chefs created a A NOVEL APPROACH
recipe for him using his favourite ingredients, cooked just the TO BREAKFAST
way he liked it. In this version, based on one from Leiths Omelette Arnold Bennett
cookery school, whipping the egg whites creates a cross with horseradish
between a soufflé base and an omelette, making it lighter and chives, p28
but still indulgent. The punchy horseradish twist cuts
through the richness with a welcome hit of heat.

A dish of seared, finely sliced beef fillet, carpaccio was
invented in 1950 by Giuseppe Cipriani at Harry’s Bar in
Venice, inspired by a raw veal dish from Piedmont (carne
cruda all’albese). It’s named after the Venetian painter
Vittore Carpaccio, who was famous for the deep red and
white hues of his work (red for the beef, white for the
parmesan or white truffle the dish is traditionally topped
with). This vegetarian version keeps the colour scheme but
looks to the Middle East for its flavours, bringing the
carpaccio bang up to date and making it a less extragavant
but still impressive starter.

Shallot and dill marinated
beetroot carpaccio with
crispy halloumi, p33 27
THE TWIST RECIPE stream, stirring all the time, until the THE TWIST RECIPE
Omelette Arnold Bennett mixture thickens and it pulls away Nachos with pulled pork
with horseradish & chives from the sides of the pan as you stir. and sweetcorn salsa
SERVES 2. HANDS-ON TIME 35 MIN If the mixture isn’t quite thick SERVES 4-6. HANDS-ON TIME 35 MIN,
enough once all the milk has been OVEN TIME 1 HOUR 40-45 MIN
Follow the recipe up to the added, cook it for a little longer until
MAKE end of step 2, then chill the it has the right consistency. Leave to The pulled pork can be
mixture and reserved egg cool for a few minutes, then stir in MAKE made 2-3 days ahead.
whites for up to 12 hours. Bring back the horseradish sauce, egg yolks, Cool completely, then keep
to room temperature before single cream and 25g parmesan. covered in the fridge. It will taste
continuing with the recipe. Flake the haddock (remove and all the better for being made a day
The omelette will be runny discard any skin and bones), then stir or two ahead. Or freeze for up to
TEAM’S in the middle (baveuse). If in gently with some salt (if needed) 3 months, defrost fully in the fridge,
you prefer, cook for a little and plenty of black pepper. Mix in then reheat until piping hot.
longer to firm it up more. the chopped herbs and set aside. Make the sweetcorn salsa a
3 Heat the grill to high. Using an couple of hours ahead and keep
• 200ml whole milk electric hand mixer or a balloon covered in the fridge.
• 2 bay leaves whisk, whisk the egg whites in a
• 180g sustainable smoked mixing bowl until they form medium FOR THE PULLED PORK
haddock, cut into 3 pieces peaks (the tops of the peaks created • 3 tbsp olive oil
• 30g butter, plus an extra knob when the beaters are lifted out will • 2 large banana shallots, finely
for frying flop over). Stir a spoonful of whisked sliced
• 30g plain flour egg white into the haddock mixture • 600g British free-range pork
• 2 tbsp horseradish sauce (we to loosen it, then use a large metal shoulder, cut into 2cm cubes
used Colman’s) spoon to fold in the remaining egg • 3 fat garlic cloves, crushed
• 3 medium free-range eggs, whites in two additions, keeping as • 1½ tbsp ground cumin
separated much of the air in as possible. • 1 tbsp ground coriander
• 2 tbsp single cream 4 Melt the remaining knob of butter • 1 tsp ground cinnamon
• 25g parmesan, plus a little extra in the frying pan over a medium- • 1 tsp mild chilli powder
for the top, finely grated high heat, swirling the pan to coat • ½ tsp ground allspice
• 10g each fresh chives and dill, it evenly in butter. When it starts • 2 tsp each dried thyme and
finely chopped to sizzle, carefully tip the omelette dried oregano
mixture into the pan, tilting the pan • 3 tbsp tomato purée
YOU’LL ALSO NEED… so it covers the whole surface. Put • 3 tbsp red wine vinegar
• 20cm (measured across the base) the pan on the heat and cook for • 500ml chicken stock
non-stick frying pan 3-4 minutes, shaking it every so • 2 tsp caster sugar
often to keep the omelette loose. • 100ml whole milk
1 Heat the milk and bay leaves in a Once the edges have set, lift them
medium saucepan over a medium- up with the flat of a knife or a FOR THE SWEETCORN SALSA
high heat. Once steaming, add the spatula to check the colour. When • ½ red onion, finely diced
haddock pieces, cover with a lid they’re light golden and the middle • 1 tbsp red wine vinegar
and turn the heat down to very low. is beginning to swell and puff like • 1 tsp caster sugar
Poach the fish for 8 minutes, turning a soufflé, scatter over a little more • 198g tin sweetcorn, drained
the haddock halfway, until cooked parmesan, transfer the pan to the and rinsed
through. Remove the fish to a plate, grill and cook for 5-6 minutes until • ½-1 jalapeño chilli or red chilli,
reserving 150ml of the milk (discard just golden, lightly crisp and puffed. deseeded and finely chopped
the remaining milk). Remove the pan from the grill (use • 1 ripe avocado, peeled and cut into
2 Wipe out the saucepan with a tea towel around the handle), slide small dice
kitchen paper and add the 30g the omelette onto a plate, cut in half • 1 small bunch fresh coriander,
butter. Melt over a medium heat, and serve immediately. finely chopped
then stir in the flour using a wooden PER SERVING 570kcals, 36.8g fat • Juice ½ lime
spoon. Increase the heat slightly (19.6g saturated), 39.9g protein,
and let the mixture bubble gently, 19.2g carbs (7.3g sugars), 2.3g salt, TO SERVE
stirring constantly, until the colour 1.3g fibre • 200g bag tortilla chips
darkens to a light brown and the WINE EDITOR’S CHOICE A dry, • Extra-mature cheddar, grated
mixture smells biscuity. Pour in the lemony, lightly oaked white bordeaux • Soured cream and pickled
reserved milk in a thin, steady suits the creamy smokiness here. jalapeños (optional) →


In 1943, a group of American military wives stationed in Fort Duncan, Texas,
arrived at a restaurant in nearby Piedras Negras, Mexico, after service had closed.
The maître d’ rustled up some canapés with what little he had – fried tortilla
triangles, melted cheese and jalapeños. The maître d’ was called Ignacio ‘Nacho’
Anaya and he named his dish Nacho’s especial. Nachos have come a long way since
their invention, and they’re the perfect sharing dish for hungry guests. This
version uses a cheat’s pulled pork recipe – no 12-hour cooking period required –
and a zingy storecupboard salsa to reflect the original spirit of the dish.

Nachos with
pulled pork and
sweetcorn salsa
Chocolate and
ginger studded
frangipane galette

The best known story behind the word ‘frangipane’ is that it comes
from a 16th century Italian nobleman Marquis Muzio Frangipani who
was living in Paris. He’s credited with inventing an almond-scented
perfume for leather gloves (leather wasn’t too fragrant in those days),
which became all the rage with the French nobility and Louis XIII. The
pastry chefs of Paris cashed in on the fad and created an almond paste
used to fill pastries and tarts. The frangipani tree is also supposedly
named after the Marquis because of the beautiful scent of its flowers.


1 To make the pulled pork, heat the the salsa over the top, then serve
oven to 200°C/180°C fan/gas 6. Heat with any extra salsa, and the soured
the oil in a large flameproof cream and jalapeños if you like. 1 Heat the oven to
casserole (one with a lid) on a PER SERVING (FOR 6) 501kcals, 200°C/180°C fan/
medium heat, then fry the shallots 26.6g fat (6.3g saturated), 29.9g gas 6 and put a baking
for 5-6 minutes, stirring often, until protein, 32.2g carbs (7.4g sugars), sheet inside. Put the
slightly softened but not coloured. 1g salt, 6.3g fibre butter and sugar in a
Turn up the heat, season the pork WINE EDITOR’S CHOICE Argentina’s large mixing bowl and,
with salt, then add to the pan and fry aromatic torrontés is top white – or using an electric hand mixer
for 4-5 minutes, stirring, until the try a juicy Chilean pinot noir. or the paddle attachment on a
meat has coloured slightly on the stand mixer, beat for 2-3 minutes
outside. Reduce the heat to medium, THE TWIST RECIPE until light and well combined. Beat
add the garlic and cook, stirring, for Chocolate and ginger in the flour and ground almonds
1-2 minutes, then add all the spices studded frangipane galette until well combined, then stir in the
and dried herbs. Stir to coat the SERVES 6-8. HANDS-ON TIME 30 MIN, bourbon (or other spirit), ginger and
meat and fry for 2 minutes until the OVEN TIME 50-60 MIN chocolate (add the salt if you’re
spices are fragrant. (If they start to using regular dark chocolate) until
catch on the bottom of the pan add Assemble the tart up to everything is evenly distributed.
a splash of water and keep stirring.) AHEAD 24 hours ahead, scattering 2 Lay out 3 sheets of foil on
2 Stir in the tomato purée and with the almonds and sugar a work surface, overlapping them
red wine vinegar and cook for 2-3 just before baking. Chill until ready to make a sheet large enough to
minutes. Pour in the chicken stock to bake. Or freeze, then cook straight accommodate the pastry. Put the
and add the sugar and milk, bring from the freezer, adding 10-15 pastry circle in the middle and
everything to a simmer, then put the minutes to the cooking time and spoon the frangipane on top in
lid on and transfer to the oven. Cook scattering with almonds and sugar a 25cm diameter circle, leaving a
for 1½ hours, stirring halfway halfway through. Cover with foil if 7cm pastry border all around. Fold
through, until the pork falls apart the top browns too quickly. Leftovers in the pastry border over the edge
easily when pressed with a spoon. will keep for 2-3 days in an airtight of the frangipane, pleating it every
3 When the meat is tender, remove container at room temperature. 10cm or so and leaving the middle
it to a bowl using a slotted spoon We used Lindt Excellence of the galette exposed. Brush the
and put the pan with the remaining TEAM’S Touch of Sea Salt chocolate exposed pastry all over with the
sauce on the hob. Bring back to but you could use any beaten egg, then sprinkle the
a simmer for 10 minutes or until good quality dark chocolate and remaining 1 tbsp sugar over the
reduced by half. Meanwhile, shred add ½ tsp sea salt flakes. pastry and scatter the flaked
the pork with 2 forks, then add it Ocado sells a French all-butter almonds over the whole galette.
back to the sauce, stir and set aside puff pastry, Marie La Pâte Feuilletée, 3 Using the foil, slide the galette
until ready to assemble the nachos which won’t need rolling as it’s onto the hot baking sheet.
(see Make Ahead). already the right size for this recipe. Bake on the middle rack of the
4 To make the salsa, put the red oven for 20 minutes, then turn
onion, vinegar and sugar in a glass • 180g unsalted butter, softened down the oven temperature to
or ceramic bowl with a generous • 200g caster sugar, plus 1 tbsp 160°C/140°C fan/gas 3 and cook
scattering of salt and stir to extra to scatter for another 30-40 minutes until
combine. Leave for 10 minutes so • 40g plain flour the pastry is deep golden and
the onions lightly pickle, then stir in • 200g ground almonds completely crisp. Remove
the remaining ingredients, taste and • 2 tbsp bourbon, rum or brandy from the oven, leave to cool
season again. Chill until ready to • 30g crystallised ginger, finely completely (the texture
serve (see Make Ahead). chopped improves as it cools),
5 To assemble the nachos, heat the • 100g dark chocolate with sea salt then slice and serve
oven to 200°C/180°C fan/gas 6. (see tips), roughly chopped with crème fraîche.
Scatter the tortilla chips in a baking • 250g all-butter puff pastry, rolled PER SERVING (FOR 8)
dish or tray, then spoon over the out to a rough 32cm circle (see tips) 683kcals, 46.2g fat
warm pork. Sprinkle with as much • 1 medium free-range egg, (19g saturated), 11.3g
grated cheese as you see fit, then lightly beaten protein, 52.9g carbs
heat in the oven for 10-15 minutes • 2 tbsp flaked almonds (38.2g sugars), 0.4g
until the cheese has melted. Spoon • Crème fraîche to serve salt, 1.3g fibre →
THE TWIST RECIPE cream, then the chopped peaches.
HIT THE HIGH NOTES Peach cake with raspberry 3 Carefully spoon the cake mixture
Peach cake with
raspberry sauce
sauce and ice cream over the peaches in the prepared tin,
and ice cream SERVES 10. HANDS-ON TIME 30 MIN, making sure you don’t spoil the
OVEN TIME 80 MIN, PLUS COOLING pattern on the bottom. Smooth the
top of the mixture, then bake for
The cake is best on the day 40 minutes. Turn the oven down to
MAKE it’s made. The raspberry 160°C/140°C fan/gas 3 and bake for
sauce will keep in the fridge another 40 minutes until the top is
in a sealed container for up to 5 days. golden and a skewer pushed into the
centre comes out clean. Leave to
FOR THE CAKE cool in the tin for 10 minutes, then
• 2 x 400g tins peach segments invert the cake onto a wire rack (so
in syrup the peaches are now at the top). The
• 225g unsalted butter, plus extra top of the cake will look pale but
for greasing, well softened don’t worry – it will be glazed later.
• 200g caster sugar Leave to cool completely.
• 3 medium free-range eggs, beaten 4 While the cake is cooling, make the
• Grated zest 1 lemon raspberry sauce. Put the raspberries,
• 250g plain flour icing sugar, liqueur/water and lemon
• 1½ tsp baking powder juice in a saucepan, add a splash of
• 3 tbsp single cream water, then heat gently until just
• 3 tbsp peach or apricot jam, simmering. Stir the mixture to break
warmed and sieved, to glaze up the raspberries, then simmer for
• Vanilla ice cream to serve 5 minutes or until all the fruit has
broken down. Taste for balance –
FOR THE RASPBERRY SAUCE you may want to add a little extra
• 400g frozen raspberries sugar, lemon juice or liqueur. When
• 3-4 tbsp icing sugar (or to taste) you’re happy, push the mixture
• 3 tbsp raspberry liqueur (optional; through a sieve, pressing it through
you can also just use water) firmly with a wooden spoon so only
• Squeeze lemon juice the seeds and as little fruit as
possible are left in the sieve (discard
YOU’LL ALSO NEED… them). Set the sauce aside until
• 20cm loose-bottomed cake tin, ready to serve (see Make Ahead).
greased, the base lined with 5 Once the cake has cooled, heat the
non-stick baking paper grill to medium-high. Brush the jam
all over the top of the cake so it’s
1 For the cake, heat the oven to thickly glazed. Put it on a baking
180°C/160°C fan/gas 4. Drain the tray and grill until the jam bubbles
peach segments, then blot dry with and begins to caramelise. Depending
plenty of kitchen paper. Arrange the on which jam you’re using, you may
best looking segments (about half) need to add a sprinkle of caster
in the base of the cake tin in a single sugar and grill for a little longer
Australian opera singer Dame Nellie Melba (she pops up layer – they should be packed close to get a really golden caramelised
in Downton Abbey) enjoyed a friendship with legendary chef but not touching. Roughly chop the finish. Once you’re happy with the
Escoffier and during the late 1800s he created a number of remaining segments into thirds. colour, remove the cake from the
dishes in her name. Two are still well known today – melba
toast and the famous peach melba. 2 In a large bowl, using an electric grill and either serve immediately
Escoffier was protective of the simplicity of his poached hand mixer, cream the butter and with vanilla ice cream and the
peaches with raspberry sauce and vanilla ice cream, sugar until light and fluffy. Add the raspberry sauce or keep in an
declaring that “any variation on this recipe ruins the eggs in 3 batches, beating well after airtight container at room
delicate balance of its taste”. We hope he’ll forgive us for
putting the peaches into a cake in our twist on peach melba each addition, then add the lemon temperature until ready to cut (see
– we think it works beautifully. Tinned peaches get round zest. In a separate mixing bowl, mix Make Ahead) later the same day.
the seasonality issue and give a nod to the retro nature of the flour and baking powder with PER SERVING 478kcals, 21.9g fat
this pudding – everyone surely remembers some version
a pinch of salt then, using a large (13.1g saturated), 6.1g protein,
of it from childhood. Eat the cake warm as a pudding with
the raspberry sauce and ice cream, or enjoy it on its own metal spoon (and in three goes) fold 61g carbs (41.6g sugars), 0.3g salt,
at room temperature for afternoon tea. into the cake batter. Fold in the 3.3g fibre


THE TWIST RECIPE • 250g halloumi cheese

Shallot & dill marinated • Olive oil for frying FAKE NEWS!
beetroot carpaccio with • 60g rocket We debunk some of the most notorious
crispy halloumi • ½ tbsp pomegranate molasses cases of disinformation in the food world
SERVES 4. HANDS-ON TIME 35 MIN • Handful pistachios, lightly toasted THE MYTH Champagne coupes are modelled
in a dry pan, roughly chopped on Marie Antoinette’s breasts
Marinate the beetroot up to THE FACTS Almost everything you hear about
MAKE 24 hours ahead and keep 1 Trim the beetroot, then peel and Marie Antoinette is false (including her most
covered in the fridge. slice finely (it’s easiest with a famous quote “Let them eat cake”). She gets a
mandoline or food processor). Put terrible press thanks to revolutionary (and anti-
• 2 large beetroot the slices in a glass or ceramic dish. Austrian) propaganda. She was actually a devoted
• Juice 1 lemon Add the lemon juice, 3 tbsp oil, dill, mother and wife, and probably no more excessive
• 3 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil, plus a shallots, spices, sugar and salt, than any other French noblewoman of the time.
little extra to drizzle then toss. Cover and marinate at While the original champagne coupe may have
• ½ small bunch dill, finely chopped room temperature for at least been modelled on someone’s breast, there’s no
• 2 banana shallots, finely chopped 30 minutes (see Make Ahead). evidence it was hers. It was common at the time
• 1 tbsp each coriander and cumin 2 Shave the halloumi using a to appear in the French court with bosoms barely
seeds, toasted in a dry pan, roughly mandoline or Y-shape peeler. Line covered, so any budding glass designers would
crushed in a pestle and mortar a large plate with kitchen paper. Heat have had a wealth of inspiration to choose from.
• 1 tsp caster sugar 0.5cm olive oil in a large pan and THE MYTH The Venetian explorer Marco Polo
• 1 tsp sea salt flakes add a halloumi slice. When it starts brought pasta to Italy from China
to sizzle, add more slices to fill the THE FACTS Mentions of pasta in Italy exist before
pan and cook for 2-3 minutes until Marco Polo made it home from the Orient in 1295.
light golden, turning once using A document from before his trip, listing the
tongs or a fork (be careful, the oil possessions of a Genovese soldier, mentions
will spit). Once browned, dry the macaroni. Yes, it’s a coincidence that Asian noodles
crisps on the kitchen paper and resemble pasta, but when you think that almost
repeat until the cheese is used up. every country in the world managed to invent
3 To assemble, toss the rocket with some form of bread, it doesn’t seem so strange.
the pomegranate molasses and THE MYTH Margaret Thatcher invented Mr Whippy
a drizzle of olive oil. Divide the THE FACTS Although the former prime minister did
beetroot among 4 plates, then dress have a degree in chemistry from Oxford and worked
with some of the marinade. Top with briefly for J Lyons and Co, who made Mr Whippy,
the rocket, some halloumi crisps the original soft-serve ice cream was invented and
and pistachios, then serve. sold in the USA much earlier than in the UK. The
PER SERVING 429kcals, 34.6g fat story is said to have been invented by her detractors
(13.1g saturated), 15.6g protein, as a metaphor for the Iron Lady’s politics (take
12.2g carbs (5.7g sugars), 2.9g salt, something good and change it to make it less good
3.3g fibre but more profitable…). We’ll leave you to decide
WINE EDITOR’S CHOICE Dry chenin whether or not it was an accurate analogy.
blanc or pinot blanc work best of all.

The intriguing
history of the
wedding cake
The new
RULES The days when a dinner party meant black ties, best silver cutlery and passing the
port are long gone. These days gatherings around the table are a lot more laid-back.
That doesn’t mean anything goes, though, says food writer and veteran dinner
party-thrower Debora Robertson. Here’s how to avoid a contemporary faux pas


ow straightforward it was back
in the day, when all you needed
to do was put on your best suit
or frock, spend the first half of the
evening speaking to the person on your
This is the act of a monster. The only
people worse than those who arrive bang
than the pick-and-mix culinary
peccadillos of others.

right, the second half to the person on

your left, jump into a cab by midnight,
scribble a thank you note the next day,
on time are those who arrive early, when
you’re still in your pinny and haven’t had
time to soften your more frazzled edges
It’s so prissy to skirt around the interesting
and we all got out of there alive. with your first cocktail. For the very best stuff in favour of – what? House prices and
Things have changed. Our newly in civilised behaviour, arrive 10 to 15 illnesses? Do also watch out for terminal
casual way of living means we hardly minutes after the appointed time. eyeglazeoveritis when boasting about
know when we’ve strayed over some your kids to anyone who is not a relative.
mysterious line on the sisal matting. In
that bastion of propriety The Lady
magazine, modern manners expert
It’s now highly acceptable, not to say
fashionable, to bring craft beer or cider 6DON’T HELP
Of course, do offer, but not with any
Thomas Blaikie recently set out the new instead. You look terribly cutting edge and real intent. Unless invited, don’t start
dinner party rules, which included no one has to drink it. clearing tables or washing up. It’s your job
departing by 10.30pm on a weeknight, as a guest to sit there and be absolutely
(11.15pm at weekends), never turning
up with wine that costs less than a 3DON’T TAKE FLOWERS
Because rattling out dinner for eight
fascinating, damn it.

tenner and, if you’re the host, never

serving up a plated starter.
Personally, I’ve thrown so many
isn’t stressful enough, let’s add having to
find a suitable vase to this evil game of
party peril. Send flowers afterwards or
If I’m pouring the hard stuff, or that
weird digestif I dragged back from my
dinner parties my dishwasher should take along a pot plant. No cacti though hols, it’s because I want you to stay. If
be receiving some sort of award for its – there may be pricks at the table as it is. I suggest tea or coffee, I am mentally
contribution to community relations. calling you a cab. Please don’t expect me
Here, then, are my dispatches from the
4KEEP YOUR DIET TO YOURSELF to actually make the tea or coffee.

dinner party front, to ensure hosts and If you’re vegan, vegetarian or have
guests stay happy. a deadly food allergy, of course you should
let your host know beforehand. However,
if you’re just off dairy this week, flirting
Mr Blaikie speaks perfect sense when
he says weeknight dinners should be over
with gluten-free or drearily carb-phobic, by 10.30pm. We aren’t 20 any more and
do keep it to yourself, there’s a love. being in (your own) bed by midnight is
There’s honestly nothing more boring one of the cornerstones of civilised life.
food for thought.

But if anyone left my house at 11.15pm

on a Saturday night, I would hang up my
apron forever. Do stay. Have another
drink. Laugh. Gossip. Drag out the old
vinyl and let’s dance around the kitchen.
Don’t leave me this way. Not just yet.


Of course, a letter is delicious and
people will remember your impeccable
guestitude forever; a postcard is good and
an email is fine. The most dreadful thing
you can do is to resist sending an email or
text as you absolutely, positively are going
to write that letter. Just as soon as you find
the perfect stationery, buy an ink pen,
master calligraphy and find a stamp. And
suddenly you’re bumping into your hosts
at another event 10 months later and
they’re wondering why they never heard
from you again and is it because you hated
their cousin Bert or the syllabub or, in fact,
them. Send the bloody email.


If you want your guests to relax and have
a good time, you need to make it look, or
at least feel, effortless. No one cares that
you spent the whole weekend watching
YouTube videos of how to make swans
from choux pastry. Bowls of bought ice
cream taste sweeter than any amount of
culinary braggadocio. 35

It’s uncanny how a particular smell can, in a split second, trigger
recollections of times gone by. Or how a much loved cooking
utensil can come to symbolise a part of your history you never
want to let go of. Here, the delicious. team share the objects that
spark edible memories for them – with recipes to go alongside

The dough can have its

MAKE second rise in the fridge
overnight (step 5), but you
will need to bring it back to room
In our kitchen at home there’s a temperature before shaping.
huge drawer full of pans and baking Leave the dough to prove (step 6)
equipment. Hidden at the back is in the tin as in the recipe. Pop Bourdeaux
a slightly battered item, one with The baked loaf will keep for 48 in the bakery
which I’d never part: it’s a bread tin, hours in a sealed container. Freeze, in his 70s
blackened with use, and with our sliced and well wrapped in cling film
family name embossed on the side so and foil, for up to 1 month.
it imprints every loaf. It must be more than 60 years old. dough that’s firmer than when you
My great-grandma set up Bourdeaux’s bakery three • ½ x 0.4g pack saffron threads started. Put the kneaded dough into
generations ago after her husband Cecil was gassed • Grated zest 1 orange, juice ½ a lightly oiled bowl, cover with cling
in World War I and was unable to work. His wife was • 500g strong white bread flour, film and leave somewhere warm
so ashamed that she forbade all mention of him. We plus extra for dusting (a kitchen cupboard is ideal) to rise
only recently discovered that he lived out his days in • 1 tsp salt for 1½-2 hours until doubled in size
an institution. That in itself is shameful now. Great- • 1½ tsp ground mixed spice (rich doughs like this take longer to
Granny Bourdeaux had to find a way of supporting • 70g caster sugar rise than regular bread doughs).
the family and she did that by getting my grandfather • 25g fresh yeast (or 7g sachet 5 Turn the dough out of the bowl
(Papa or Pop) to train as a baker and run a bakery with dried yeast) onto a lightly floured surface and
his younger brother Brian. • 180ml whole milk, gently warmed gently knead a couple of times
The bakery became famous in Cornwall and Pop • 2 medium free-range eggs, to release any large air bubbles.
was renowned for his pasties (he was once called ‘the beaten, plus 1 egg, beaten, to Return the dough to the oiled bowl,
pasty king of Cornwall’ on the radio), bread and saffron glaze re-cover and leave to rise for
cakes. When I was a child, there was no sweeter • 50g unsalted butter, softened 1 hour more or until doubled in
pleasure than spending days at my grandad’s side, • Sunflower oil for greasing size (see Make Ahead).
watching as he made puff pastry, patting on dabs of • 150g icing sugar 6 Shape the dough into a smooth
fat and rolling the dough back and forth, or helping lozenge shape the length of your
assistant baker Arthur crimp pasties and shape bread YOU’LL ALSO NEED… tin, then carefully put it in the tin.
rolls under his cupped palm. But the enduring • 3lb (1.3kg) loaf tin, lightly oiled Brush the bread generously with
memory? Those buttercup-yellow loaves, studded with the beaten egg. Loosely cover with
fruit, the smell of a spice from faraway lands filling 1 Mix the saffron and orange zest oiled cling film and leave the loaf
the bakery as they cooked to perfection in the ovens. with 40ml boiling water in a small to prove for about 1 hour until risen
This is a different take on the traditional recipe – no heatproof bowl and set aside to cool. to almost the height of the tin (or
fruit and scented with orange peel – and I’ve called it 2 Sift the flour, salt, mixed spice and higher if your tin is shallow).
saffron loaf, rather than saffron cake. As we’re using sugar in a large bowl. In a jug, blend 7 Heat the oven to 190°C/170°C fan/
his heirloom tin, I think Pop would forgive us the the yeast with the milk until smooth. gas 5. Bake the loaf for 30-35
tweak – as long as we don’t commit the sacrilege 3 Make a well in the middle of the minutes until risen and golden
of smearing butter on the slices… flour mixture and add the saffron brown. Leave to cool in the tin for
and orange water, yeast/milk, 10 minutes, then turn out onto a
2 beaten eggs and the softened wire rack to cool completely.
butter. Mix lightly with your fingers 8 In a small bowl combine the icing
until everything comes together to sugar and orange juice to make
form a slightly sticky (but not wet) a smooth, thick but drizzleable
dough. Mix in a tablespoon of warm icing. Drizzle it over the bread and
water if the mixture is a bit dry. leave to set. Serve sliced as it is or
4 Turn the dough out onto a lightly lightly toasted under the grill.
floured surface and knead for 10 PER SERVING 343kcals, 6.8g fat (3.5g
SP EC IAL minutes or until silky smooth. Lift saturated), 8.9g protein, 60.8g carbs
GR ANDPAR EN TS the dough up high and slap it back (23.1g sugars), 0.6g salt, 1.7g fibre
Nanny and Papa down onto the surface to develop For more ways to use saffron,
the gluten. You are after a stretchy see Loose Ends →

Karen’s new
saffron loaf 39

Once the chips have been

AHEAD fried once (step 2), they can
ART EDITOR MARTINE TINNEY be kept on the baking tray,
covered, in the fridge for up to 24
hours. Complete the recipe, frying
Nan had owned her deep fat at the higher temperature, to serve.
fryer for years, maybe decades, and Use fresh oil as research nan Winnie
that’s how she always cooked her TEAM’S shows it’s best not to reuse
chips. It was a real treat to go to her oil that’s been used for
house on a Saturday night when I frying at high temperatures. is u u , us
was young. My brother and I would slotted spoon (or frying basket) to
stay at hers while my parents went • 800g floury potatoes (we used add half the chips to the pan, then
out. We were never allowed chips at home (especially maris piper) fry for 7-8 minutes until tender but
not at 9 o’clock at night), but Nan used to make them • 2 litres sunflower oil (see tip) not coloured. Remove with a slotted
for us as a treat. They were so good I can still smell • Malt vinegar and sea salt flakes spoon to a baking tray and repeat
them now. The important thing about her homemade to serve with the remaining chips. Leave to
chips is that they came in all different shapes and cool completely (see Make Ahead).
sizes – nothing got wasted, so you got the crispy YOU’LL ALSO NEED… 3 Increase the oil temperature to
ends mixed in with the rest. We always added • Digital probe thermometer 180°C (or when a piece of bread
lashings of salt and vinegar. They were the best. or a deep-fat fryer browns in about 30 seconds). Add
half the chips to the pan/fryer
1 Peel the potatoes and chop into and cook for 3-4 minutes until
finger-size chips (any length will do). golden and crisp. Remove to a bowl
2 Fill a large deep-sided saucepan lined with kitchen paper to drain,
8-10cm deep (no more than halfway) then repeat with the remaining chips.
with the sunflower oil and heat until Drizzle with plenty of vinegar and
the oil reaches 140°C on a digital toss with sea salt to serve.
probe thermometer (a raw chip will PER SERVING 274kcals, 11.2g fat (1.4g
sizzle and float to the top – or use saturated), 3.9g protein, 37.3g carbs
a deep-fat fryer). Once the oil (1.7g sugars), trace salt, 4g fibre

Martine and Winnie’s
late-night treats

Hugh’s prawn, cabbage &

sichuan pepper stir-fry

Vary the veg in the stir-fry

NEXT according to what’s in
season/your fridge, or swap
the prawns for chicken or beef
strips, if you prefer.

• Rapeseed oil for frying

• 1 red pepper, finely sliced
• 1 onion, finely sliced
• ½ broccoli head, cut into florets
• ¼ savoy cabbage, shredded
• 200g chestnut mushrooms, sliced
• 300g fresh (or cooked) medium
egg noodles
• 350g sustainable raw peeled
king prawns
A PAN FOR • 200g firm tofu, cut into 1cm slices
ALL SEASONS • 200g beansprouts, soaked in cold
Hugh’s quick water for a few minutes to refresh
• Lime wedges to serve


• 1 garlic clove, crushed
• 1 tsp sichuan pepper, finely
ground in a pestle and mortar
• 1 red chilli, finely chopped
DEPUTY CHIEF SUB EDITOR HUGH THOMPSON • 3 tbsp shaoxing rice wine (from
the world food section of large
My favourite tools are a scorched wooden spatula, a 6-inch supermarkets)
Sabatier knife and a wok. The spatula attached itself to me somehow • 4 tbsp soy sauce, plus extra
on a move from one flat to another and we’ve been inseparable since. • 1 tbsp honey
Cooking without it feels awkward. The knife was a present from my • 2cm piece fresh ginger, grated
mum because I’d shown an interest in cooking. It’s not sharp at all
now and the tip is bent, but it’s still my go-to cutter. It just feels right 1 Mix all the dressing ingredients in
in the hand. And the wok I bought in 1989 in London’s Chinatown. It a small bowl and set aside. Heat a
seemed exotic and although it was cheap it was mine. It marked a move from student large wok with a good glug of oil, add
life to being an adult (sort of). I spent time seasoning it the pepper and onion and stir-fry for
and despite being unsure about the ‘never washing wit 2-3 minutes until softening.
soap’ (I did occasionally), over the years it has 2 Add the broccoli, cabbage and
developed a black non-stick patina. Now I rinse it in mushrooms, then stir-fry for a
water, dry it, then I oil the pan and put it back into its few more minutes until starting
special place for old woks in the cupboard. to soften. Add the dressing,
One of my food memories as a child is of Granny noodles, prawns and tofu and
Thompson’s sulphurous smelling cabbage. Maybe I’m stir-fry for a final 4-5 minutes
imagining it but I suspect she would put the Sunday until everything is steaming hot,
greens on to cook before going to Mass, returning to crunchy but cooked through.
find the windows all steamed up and the greens cooked Stir in the beansprouts and serve
to a dull sludge. A visit did have its rewards, though. with extra soy sauce and lime
After lunch Pop would always pull out a tin of large, wedges for squeezing.
jaw-sticking toffees and offer them around. PER SERVING 414kcals, 13.2g fat
This stir-fry uses cabbage (cooked for just a few 1.6g saturated), 32.9g protein,
minutes) to great effect. I miss Gran and Pop but Gran 6.5g carbs (13.6g sugars),
and Pop
I don’t miss the sulphurous cabbage. .6g salt, 9.2g fibre →
in Dublin 41
Christine’s (Vic’s mum’s)
slow-cooked beef stew

Make up to 4 days ahead and

MAKE keep covered in the fridge.
Freeze in a resealable
container for up to 3 months.
If using an Aga, halve the stock
TEAM’S and ale, as the liquid won’t
reduce as much – it’s good to
have a thick gravy.

• Olive oil for frying

• 3 small onions, each cut into 8 wedges
• 4 carrots, sliced into thick rounds
• 2 celery sticks, roughly sliced
• 200g chestnut mushrooms, halved
• 3 garlic cloves, sliced
• 1.5kg British braising steak, cut into
chunky pieces
• 4 tbsp plain flour
• 1 tsp English mustard powder
• 4 tbsp tomato purée
FARMHOUSE • 330ml brown ale
GOODNESS • 4 Oxo beef stock cubes, dissolved in
Christine’s 800ml boiling water
beef stew
• ½ tbsp Worcestershire sauce
• 4 bay leaves
• Seasonal potatoes to serve

1 Heat the oven to 140°C/120°C fan/

gas 1. Heat a glug of oil in a casserole
DIGITAL EDITOR (MATERNITY COVER) VIC GRIMSHAW (one with a lid) over a medium heat.
Add the onions, carrots and celery and
I remember my mum braising steak in the bottom of the Aga fry for 8-10 minutes until softened. Add
for what felt like days on end. It always smelled amazing and the the mushrooms and garlic and fry for
aroma flooded through the house. Finally we were rewarded with 4 minutes more, stirring occasionally.
platefuls of tender beef and oniony, super-soft carroty goodness. 2 Meanwhile, heat a glug of oil in
The Aga was a gift for my folks’ wedding anniversary, which a frying pan over a medium-high heat.
makes it 50 years old and still In a bowl, toss the beef with the flour,
going strong. It really was mustard powder and salt and pepper.
– and is – the hub of the house. So much Chr istine Brown the beef in 2-3 batches, then add
happens on, around and in it. For Mum, Oxo and her to the casserole with the tomato purée
trusty Aga
was the stock cube of choice. She had (and still and ale. Stir well and bubble over a high
has) a classic Oxo dispenser from the Seventies heat for 2-3 minutes. Pour in the stock
fixed to the wall, and I found it fascinating to and Worcestershire sauce and add the
play with as a child. bay leaves. Bring to the boil, cover, put
Whatever the time of year, the finished in the oven and cook for 4½-5 hours.
dish was always served with potatoes – 3 Check the beef is tender (it should fall
glorious spuds, in all their seasonal beauty! apart easily when prodded with a fork)
My dad was a farmer, like his father before taste and season with salt and pepper.
him, mainly arable and mainly potatoes. So Serve with seasonal potatoes.
whether it was fresh-from-the-ground new PER SERVING (FOR 6) 503kcals, 18.8g
potatoes or earthy baked potatoes in winter, fat (6.5g saturated), 58.7g protein, 19.9g
they made the meal of my childhood. carbs (9.3g sugars), 1.8g salt, 4.4g fibre

“I remember standing on a chair to Jen’s giant pan cookie

reach the kitchen work surface in our TIME 25-30 MIN

kitchen, feeling so happy with my lot” • 175g unsalted butter, softened

FOOD EDITOR JEN BEDLOE • 200g light brown soft sugar
• 1 large free-range egg, beaten
I grew up in the Eighties and my mum would bake every Monday • 1 tsp vanilla extract
to set the family up for the week. Buns, as we called them then, were • 250g plain flour
freshly baked and stashed in tins. Some would have the scent of • 1 tsp baking powder
freshly zested orange and a drizzle of icing, some would be flavoured • ½ tsp fine salt
with mixed spice, lemon and currants, others were left plain for us to • 200g chocolate chips (we
decorate according to our whim. used Guittard Maxi Milk
One memory that has stayed with me Chocolate Baking Chips, from
even more strongly than the taste of those fluffy bakes is or
the sharing-out of the batter. There were three of us, so I • Vanilla ice cream to serve
got the bowl (eldest), my sister (Kathryn with a ‘K’) got the
Kenwood ‘K’ beater, and my brother Peter got a specially YOU’LL ALSO NEED…
‘dirtied’ wooden spatula. I remember standing on • 23cm cast-iron frying pan
a dining chair to reach the kitchen work surface or 23cm sandwich tin
in our kitchen feeling so happy with my lot. The
cakes were good, too, but it was all about that 1 Heat the oven to 190°C/170°C fan/
bowl. To echo that sense of sharing I’ve gas 5. In a stand mixer with the
created a pan cookie recipe that doesn’t paddle attachment or ‘K beater’ (or
hang around long. Have spoons (and ice in large mixing bowl using an
cream) at the ready, then dive in. Jen (centre) with electric hand mixer), cream the
Kathr yn and Peter
butter and sugar together until pale
and fluffy. Add the egg and
vanilla, then beat until
well combined.
MONSTER COOKIE 2 Sift over the flour,
Jen’s taste of
baking powder and salt,
then beat again briefly
to combine. Stir in
the chocolate
chips using a
wooden spoon or
spatula (for Peter),
then spoon the dough into
the frying pan/cake tin
and press down gently
to flatten and spread
evenly to the edges.
Bake for 25-30
minutes until risen and
golden. Top with
scoops of ice cream,
then dig straight in
with your spoons!
519kcals, 27g fat (16.4g
saturated), 6.2g protein,
61.8g carbs (37.8g sugars),
0.6g salt, 0.3g fibre
A springtime feast
to pack and go 43
The recipe hall of fame

British cookery expert Debbie THE MASTER Scoop out 30g and set aside. Add the
Major turns her hand to RECIPE… sugar to the remainder in the
MAKES 16. HANDS-ON TIME 15 MIN, food processor and whizz briefly
traditional macaroons, tweaking OVEN TIME 20-22 MIN, PLUS COOLING until the nuts are very finely ground.
the recipe until she finds the 3 Put the egg whites in a clean
definitive version with a sweet The macaroons will keep
MAKE for 2-3 weeks in an airtight
mixing bowl and, using an electric
hand mixer, whisk for about
crunch and a soft, yielding centre. AHEAD
jar or tin somewhere cool. 15 seconds until they’re foamy and
Then, over the page, she whips up aerated. Stir in the nut and sugar
a hazelnut version sandwiched • 100g whole blanched almonds, mixture, the reserved coarsely
with indulgent chocolate ganache plus 8 to decorate ground nuts, the ground rice or
• 150g golden caster sugar semolina and the almond extract.
• 60g free-range egg whites (about 4 Spoon the mixture into the piping
2 medium eggs, or use Two Chicks bag then, holding the nozzle 1cm
Egg White,, from above the baking sheet, pipe about
large supermarkets) 1½ tbsp mixture for each macaroon
• 2 tbsp ground rice or fine to make 16 in all, leaving plenty

semolina of space in between to allow for
• ¼ tsp almond extract spreading during baking.
5 Put an almond half, rounded side
YOU’LL ALSO NEED… up, in the centre of each macaroon
• Disposable plastic or nylon piping and bake for 20-22 minutes or until
bag fitted with 1.5cm plain piping golden brown around the edges and
nozzle pale golden in the centre. Slide the
• 2 sturdy baking sheets lined with biscuits, still on the paper, onto a
rice paper or non-stick baking wire rack and leave to cool.
paper (see Debbie’s tips for 6 If you’ve used rice paper (which
success, right) is edible), cut around each macaroon
to remove the excess. Or, if you’ve
1 Heat the oven to 150°C/130°C fan/ used non-stick baking paper, lift off
gas 2. Using a small sharp knife, the macaroons. Store in an airtight
split the 8 extra almonds in half jar or tin (see Make Ahead).
lengthways and set aside. PER MACAROON 85kcals, 3.5g fat
2 Put the remaining 100g blanched (0.3g saturated), 2.2g protein,
almonds in a food processor and 11.2g carbs (9.6g sugars), trace salt,
whizz until they’re coarsely ground. 0.1g fibre


THE DEFINING adds a golden tinge and a slightly

CHARACTERISTICS caramelised flavour – but ordinary How to jazz up your macaroons
The ideal macaroon should be caster sugar will do fine if that’s all • Add a touch of cocoa powder to the mix. Whizz it
a uniformly round, light golden you have. briefly into the ground nuts and sugar (step 2).
brown biscuit with a smooth, • Stir 50g dark chocolate chips into the finished
slightly shiny surface. Ideally DEBBIE’S TIPS mixture (step 3), then spoon the mixture onto the
your macaroons should be crisp FOR SUCCESS sheets as the chips may clog up a piping nozzle.
on the outside – particularly around • Don’t over-whizz the nuts in • Swap the almond extract for another flavouring.
the edges – and slightly chewy on step 2, either before you add the Vanilla is great (see hazelnut macaroons, p46) but
the inside. sugar or once they’re mixed orange or lemon extract, or a few drops of rose
together. Over-whizzing will cause or orange blossom water, also work well.
THE ESSENTIAL oils to be released from the nuts, • For after-dinner coffee macaroons add a
INGREDIENTS making the mixture claggy and teaspoon of instant espresso powder and a few
EGG WHITES These are the key heavy, resulting in greasy biscuits. drops of coffee extract to the mixture. These
to a light macaroon. It may seem • Use sturdy, heavy-duty baking work well filled with the chocolate ganache from
pedantic to weigh out the egg sheets that won’t twist in the heat of the hazelnut macaroons overleaf.
whites, but medium eggs in the the oven, potentially spoiling the • Add a pinch of spice to the mixture. Ground
shell can range in size from finished shape of the macaroons. cinnamon, nutmeg or mixed spice work well.
between 53g and 63g each and • Line the baking sheets with rice
varying weights can drastically paper or non-stick baking paper.
affect the consistency of the Rice paper is traditional. I like the
macaroon mixture and how much it professional finish it gives but it
spreads before and during baking. isn’t essential and non-stick baking
You’re after a slightly firm rather paper works just as well.
than a loose mixture. • If you find the macaroons aren’t
ALMONDS Make sure your nuts are baking evenly, turn the trays and
fresh. They go stale easily and the swap the oven shelves.
oils within the nut start to take on • Piping rather than spooning the
an unpleasant flavour. mixture onto the baking sheets is
SUGAR I like to use golden caster quicker and gives the macaroons
sugar in all my baking because it a more uniform size and shape. →

Turn the page for a

twist on macaroons →

Recipe with a twist

Hazelnut macaroon and • Icing sugar to dust (optional) on the paper, then put half a
chocolate fancies blanched hazelnut in the centre of
OVEN TIME 20 MIN, PLUS COOLING • 80g dark chocolate (about 50% minutes or until crisp and golden.
cocoa solids) Slide the biscuits, still on the paper,
Making macaroons with • 30g milk chocolate (minimum 34% onto a wire rack and leave to cool.
hazelnuts gives a crisper biscuit, cocoa solids) Store in a tin until you’re ready to fill
which goes well with the rich, • 150ml double cream and serve (see Make Ahead).
creamy chocolate ganache. 3 For the ganache, break both
YOU’LL ALSO NEED… chocolates into pieces in a small
The macaroons will keep • 1-2 disposable plastic or nylon heatproof bowl. Pour the cream into
MAKE well for up to 3 weeks piping bags fitted with a 1.5cm a pan and place it over a medium-
without the ganache filling. plain piping nozzle high heat. Heat until small bubbles
Fill up to 12 hours in advance (any • 2 sturdy baking sheets lined with start to form around the edge of the
longer and they’ll start to go soft). non-stick baking paper (not rice pan, but don’t let the cream boil.
These macaroons are made paper in this recipe) Pour the cream over the chocolate
TEAM’S to be a little smaller than in and stir vigorously until melted and
the master recipe (p44). the 1 Use a pencil to draw 12 x 3cm the mixture is smooth and shiny.
mixture will spread out more too. diameter circles on each lined baking Leave to cool at room temperature
Pipe the ganache between the sheet, using the end of a piping until thick and spreadable.
biscuits for a neater finish. nozzle as a template, so you have 24 4 Sandwich one nut-topped macaroon
in all. Leave a 4cm gap between each and one plain macaroon together
• 1 quantity of macaroon mixture circle to allow room for the biscuits with a generous dollop of the ganache
(see p44), substituting 100g whole to spread (see tips). Flip the paper (see tips). Dust lightly with icing
blanched hazelnuts plus 6 extra, (the circles will show through). sugar, if you like, before serving.
NEXT sliced in half, for decoration 2 Make the macaroon mixture as in PER FANCY 261kcals, 17.2g fat
(instead of the blanched almonds) the master recipe on p44, using the (6.4g saturated), 4.5g protein,
Classic eggs
benedict, plus and vanilla extract (instead of substituted ingredients, left. Pipe 21.6g carbs (19.4g sugars), trace
a new take on it almond extract) 1-2 tsp of the mixture into each circle salt, 0.7g fibre


BROCCOLI With its elegant stems and heather-like tops,
this highly prized brassica is brilliantly versatile. WHAT TO LOOK FOR
Choose sturdy, vivid green stems with
It’s quick to cook and brings colour and crunch a fresh, purple-hued crown. The
to dishes – and is as happy in a simple stir-fry as leaves should be deep green in colour
with no wilting.
it is in an elegant side dish. I also like to stir How to store it Purple sprouting
sliced stems into stews at the end of the cooking time to add broccoli will last longer if you keep
in the fridge in a paper bag.
texture and a burst of colour. I’ve given one of the recipes
here a Thai twist, tossing the PSB with a vibrant dressing
to accompany tuna. In the other dish I’ve ramped up the
umami factor by charring whole stems and pairing them with

what’s good now.

Thai-style tuna and

broccoli salad

Buy the tuna from a good

TEAM’S fishmonger (or fish counter)
and ask for thick steaks,
which won’t cook all the way through
as quickly. Thinner tuna steaks may
only need a minute on each side.

• 200g soba (buckwheat) noodles

• Toasted sesame oil for drizzling
• 2 x 200g thick tuna steaks (see tip)
• 300g purple sprouting broccoli,
sliced into 3-4cm pieces
• 1-2 tbsp soy sauce
• Bunch spring onions, finely
• 2 carrots, peeled into ribbons
• 1 ripe avocado, thinly sliced
• Bunch fresh coriander, roughly
chopped, plus extra leaves to serve
• Bunch fresh mint, leaves chopped,
plus a few extra leaves to serve


• 4 tbsp fish sauce
• 2 tbsp palm sugar, plus extra to
• Thumb-size piece fresh ginger,
• Juice 3 limes, plus wedges to serve
• 1 red chilli, finely chopped
• 4 tbsp toasted sesame oil
little. Splash over the soy sauce,
1 Whisk all the dressing ingredients then griddle for another few minutes
in a jug. Taste and season with salt, until tender but retaining a little bite.
pepper and, if needed, more palm 5 Add the spring onions, carrot
sugar, then set aside. ribbons and avocado to the noodles,
2 Bring a pan of water to the boil, then toss with the herbs, cooked
add the noodles and cook for 5 broccoli and dressing. Divide
minutes. Drain, then run under cold among 4 serving plates (or a
water for 2-3 minutes until cool and large platter). Slice the seared
silky. Put in a mixing bowl and toss tuna, lay it over the salad and
with a few drops of sesame oil to sprinkle with herb leaves. Serve
stop them sticking. with lime wedges for squeezing.
3 Heat a griddle pan or heavy-based PER SERVING 580kcals, 23.3g fat
frying pan over a high heat until (4.2g saturated), 36.6g protein,
smoking. Drizzle the tuna with oil 51.6g carbs (16.2g sugars), 2.3g salt,
and season with pepper. Sear for 2 8.6g fibre
minutes on each side for rare (see WINE EDITOR’S CHOICE Go for an
tip) or longer if you like. Remove and aromatic New World white – an
set aside, covered loosely with foil. off-dry one such as New Zealand
4 Add the broccoli to the griddle pan riesling or gewurztraminer.
and griddle, turning, for 2-3 minutes For more ways to use palm sugar,
until starting to colour and soften a see Loose Ends →
what’s good now.

Charred broccoli with • 1 lemon, halved (heavy based) frying pan and brush
anchovy and tahini sauce • Sea salt flakes to serve the broccoli with oil. When the pan
SERVES 4 AS A STARTER OR 2 AS A MAIN, is hot, put in the broccoli in a single
WITH LEFTOVER SAUCE. HANDS-ON TIME 1 Heat the oven to 180°C/160°C layer and cook, turning regularly,
30 MIN, OVEN TIME 30-35 MIN fan/gas 4. For the anchovy and for 5-8 minutes until tender and
tahini sauce, wrap each garlic half charred in parts. You might have to
The sauce will keep for 2-3 in foil and bake for 30-35 minutes do this in a couple of batches,
MAKE days in a sealed container until fragrant and tender. Squeeze depending on the size of your
in the fridge. Char the the garlic cloves from their skins griddle/frying pan. Toss the cooked
broccoli just before serving. into the bowl of a food processor broccoli in a bowl with a generous
Add some smoked bacon (discard the skins). glug of extra-virgin olive oil and
NEXT lardons before adding the 2 Meanwhile, heat a glug of oil the chopped chilli.
broccoli to the pan. in a frying pan and fry the onion 5 Warm the anchovy and tahini
over a medium heat for 10 minutes sauce in the pan on a medium heat.
• 300g purple sprouting broccoli until soft and starting to brown. Spoon the sauce onto a serving
• Olive oil for brushing and frying Add the anchovies and fry for a few plate and top with the charred
• Extra-virgin olive oil for drizzling more minutes, stirring, until they broccoli. Add another squeeze of
• 1 red chilli, finely chopped break down into the onions. lemon juice and a drizzle of
3 Turn up the heat to high and add extra-virgin olive oil, then crumble
FOR THE ANCHOVY AND TAHINI SAUCE the wine. Reduce for 5-10 minutes, over sea salt flakes and serve.
• 1 garlic bulb, halved horizontally then add the chickpeas, tahini and PER SERVING (FOR 4) 337kcals,
• Olive oil for frying cream, season with salt and black 24.6g fat (7.4g saturated), 9.9g
• 1 onion, finely chopped pepper and add lemon juice to protein, 12.3g carbs (4.3g sugars),
NEXT • 3 anchovy fillets in oil, drained taste. Spoon everything into the 0.2g salt, 8.1g fibre
MONTH • 100ml dry white wine processor with the garlic and WINE EDITOR’S CHOICE Make it
Asparagus: • 400g tin chickpeas, drained whizz until smooth. Return the a bone-dry white with a light saline
celebrate spring’s
favourite green • 50g tahini smooth sauce to the pan. note, such as Spain’s godello or
shoots • 100ml double cream 4 Heat a griddle pan or another England’s bacchus.

miso ’easy
[perfect for dressings, marinades & more!]

Miso & lemon poached salmon with a spring salad

for the full recipe visit:
what’s good now.

Gill Meller
A COOK’S YEAR He’s made an art of celebrating the fruits of land and
sea and, as group head chef at River Cottage, he’s well
attuned to eating with the seasons. This month Gill
turns his attentions to wood pigeon, a truly wild meat
that works well with a variety of spices and flavours

When you hear the word pigeon, try to scrub out images of the marauding,
scraggy flocks of one-legged birds pirating about busy city centres. Those are
feral pigeons; wood pigeons are a diferent species.
The wood pigeon spends a life on the wing, during which it commands vast
areas of wood and open farmland. There are no chains in their skyway. There
are no fences to keep them in, or keepers to shut them up. They are wild and
free and, as a result, benefit from a completely natural diet. What’s more,
they’re common, so their numbers will occasionally be culled. All this makes
them one of the most sustainable and healthy forms of meat we could hope to
eat. Beyond that? Well, they’re incredibly delicious.
Sorrel, the slender herbaceous perennial plant much loved for its appley,
sour flavour, makes a beautiful sauce to serve alongside pigeon, cutting the
rich dark meat with its clean, sharp quality.

Lightly cured pan-roast 2 Put the pigeon breasts in a glass/ceramic 5 MORE THINGS
pigeon with sorrel sauce bowl and pour over the cooled brine. Cover TO TRY WITH PIGEON

and crispy bacon and chill for 12 hours or overnight. • For North African-style pigeon
SERVES 4. HANDS-ON TIME 40 MIN, PLUS 3 Remove the pigeon from the brine (discard pittas, rub pigeon breasts with

AT LEAST 12 HOURS CHILLING the brine) and pat dry with kitchen paper. a pounded paste of garlic, cumin
Put on a plate, cover with cling film and seeds, chilli powder, caraway seeds,
Once removed from the brine, chill until needed (see Make Ahead). paprika, salt and black onion seeds.
MAKE the pigeon will keep covered 4 Heat the oil in a frying pan over a medium Chargrill the breasts, then slice
in the fridge for up to 24 hours. heat. Fry the bacon until golden and starting and stuff into hot pittas. Serve with
Buy wood pigeon breasts from to crisp. Turn up the heat and add the pigeon yogurt, fresh mint and roast beetroot.
TEAM’S butchers, larger supermarkets or breasts. Fry for 2-3 minutes on each • Make pigeon rillettes, a rustic sort
online from side (it needs to be pink in the middle), then of pâté. Slowly braise a whole pigeon
If you can’t get hold of sorrel, use the transfer the pigeon and bacon to a plate. (see in pork fat,
same quantity of young leaf spinach and Cover with foil to keep warm. garlic and thyme for several hours.
wilt it with a squeeze of lemon juice. 5 Lower the heat and add the butter. When When it’s very tender, shred the meat
it foams, add the shallot and cook, stirring from the bone, mix with the cooking
• 8 wood pigeon breasts (see tips) regularly, until softened. Pour in the stock, fat and season with salt and pepper.
• 1 tbsp olive oil bring up to a simmer and bubble until most When cooled, spread thickly on toast.
• 8 rashers streaky bacon of the liquid has evaporated. • Make a classic pigeon breast salad.
• Knob of butter 6 Cut the sorrel leaves into rough ribbons Fry pigeon breasts until just pink,
• 1 shallot, finely chopped and add to the shallot. Give the sorrel a stir then slice and serve over the top of a
• 100ml chicken or vegetable stock to ensure the leaves are nicely wilted (see salad made with curly endive, warm
• 150g sorrel, stalks removed (see tips) tips). Add the cream, stir, then bring the crunchy croutons and a sharp/sweet
• 150ml double cream sauce up to a simmer. Cook for 1-2 minutes mustard dressing. Perfect.
until the sauce has thickened slightly. • Next time you make carbonara, give
FOR THE BRINE Season, then remove the pan from the heat. it a gamey twist. Sear pigeon breasts
• 4 tsp salt 7 Divide the bacon among 4 warmed plates. with the bacon/pancetta, remove and
• 6 bay leaves Slice the pigeon thickly and arrange next rest. When ready to serve, slice the
• 2 garlic cloves, bashed to the bacon on the plates. Spoon the sorrel breasts and toss through hot pasta
• Small handful fresh thyme sprigs sauce onto the plates and serve. with the egg and grated cheese.
• 500ml apple juice PER SERVING 526kcals, 43.3g fat (18.4g • Try hot-smoking: lightly cured pigeon
saturated), 32.8g protein, 0.9g carbs breasts (like the ones in the recipe,
1 Put all the ingredients for the brine (0.8g sugars), 2.4g salt, 0.5g fibre left) smoke in minutes and are so,
in a pan set over a medium heat. Bring WINE EDITOR’S CHOICE Soft, oak-aged so good. See p103 for hot-smoking
to a simmer, then remove from the heat riojas from Spain or Portuguese Douro instructions and find equipment at
and leave to cool completely. Valley reds are the best for wood pigeon.

PIGEON loves… Sweet fruit such as gooseberries, apples and plums, particularly when they’re stewed or fried until
sticky-sweet. • Big aromatic spices: try star anise, chilli, ginger, garlic and vinegar. • Smoke and fire: barbecuing pigeon breast
works a treat, as does smoking it or chargrilling it. Herbs such as thyme, rosemary and bay are all good things to get involved here.

what’s good now.

OFFER Here’s how: visit
courses to see the full cookery school diary then,
when you book, enter the code DELICIOUS to receive
your discount. The offer is valid until 30 June 2018 and
can be used on any River Cottage course during 2018.*
The object
of my
Ravinder Bhogal launches her two-month
residency with recipes based on magical,
golden, bubbling caramel. They’re glamorous,
gorgeous and, like the film that inspired them,
just a little bittersweet

Food writer
in residence
No 6

the residency.


Prawns with
tamarind caramel and
black pepper, p58


STYLING VICTORIA ELDRIDGE Turn the page for Ravinder’s recipes →
Prawns with tamarind 2 Heat the rapeseed oil in a wide
caramel and black pepper heavy-based pan and fry the paste
SERVES 4. HANDS-ON TIME 30 MIN for 5-7 minutes until fragrant. Add
the palm sugar and cook until
In this recipe I’ve used melted and golden. Add 2 tbsp cold
palm sugar, which is the water (be careful as it will spit), then
quintessential sweetener in cook for 2 minutes until thick and
many Asian kitchens. It has glossy. Cool slightly, then stir in the
a complex, honeyed flavour tamarind and fish sauce. Set aside.
that makes it worth seeking 3 Heat the oil in a large frying pan
out (you can find it in larger over a medium heat. Add the prawns
supermarkets). If you can’t and cook for 3-4 minutes, turning to
find palm sugar, use light cook evenly. Add enough tamarind
brown sugar instead. To ofset caramel to coat, then grind in plenty
the sweetness of the caramel, be of black pepper and stir-fry for 30
There is no cinematic moment
generous with the black pepper seconds. Take off the heat, squeeze
that has compelled me to want
– use considerably more than over the lime juice and scatter over
to run to the kitchen to have my way
you would to simply season a the basil. Serve with cooked jasmine
with a bag of sugar more than the dish. Size matters here too – the rice and an extra drizzle of the
opening titles of Caramel, a languidly larger the prawns you’re using, tamarind caramel.
beguiling Lebanese film directed by the larger the surface area to PER SERVING 482kcals, 26.3g fat
Nadine Labaki. It unveils the private coat in all that delicious (2g saturated), 23.1g protein,
lives and longings of four women who all tamarind caramel. 37.8g carbs (34.1g sugars), 1.1g salt,
work in a beauty salon in Beirut. 0.9g fibre
The title refers to a much-loved sugar Make the tamarind caramel
confection, which is of course edible, but MAKE (steps 1-2) up to 2 days
AHEAD Tofu with caramel and
that’s often used across the Middle East ahead and keep covered in sichuan pepper
for depilation purposes, much like wax. the fridge. Warm before using. SERVES 4. HANDS-ON TIME 20 MIN
The film opens with a voyeuristic peek
into caramel being prepared in a • Rapeseed oil for frying Tofu has been misunderstood
battered pan on a rickety stove. What • 500-600g sustainable raw tiger by some as a bland rubbery filler
the sequence lacks in sleekness and or jumbo king prawns, heads and food, but when cooked well it’s
chicness, it makes up for with a friendly, shells removed but tails left surprisingly addictive. Take the
familiar warmth that’s inviting and intact, defrosted if frozen time to really dry out the tofu
instantly seductive. It’s in the moment • Juice ½ lime and crisp up the edges. It will
when caramel is poured and the camera • Small handful fresh Thai basil (or melt away with each bite, leaving
pans over a river of golden bubbling regular basil), leaves torn a satisfying trail of heat, umami
sugar that I marvel at the magic of it – an • Jasmine rice to serve and sweetness.
alchemy of sugar and heat that creates
FOR THE TAMARIND CARAMEL Any leftover sauce will
something completely irresistible. MAKE keep in an airtight
• 2 red chillies, chopped (seeds AHEAD
The film is a touch sentimental but
removed if you wish) container for up to a week.
that’s not to say it’s soppy or saccharine – • 1 banana shallot, chopped We used a 70g pack of
the women face moments of loneliness, FOOD
• Handful fresh coriander, leaves TEAM’S Growing Underground
disappointment and heartbreak but picked, stems chopped
Asian Micro Herbs Mix
show resilience and optimism. Life, • 3 garlic cloves, finely chopped from Ocado. You could use micro
like the caramel they concoct, has • 3 tbsp rapeseed oil herbs from
a wealth of possibilities ahead. • 150g palm sugar (see Ravinder’s or use chopped fresh coriander
These recipes, inspired by that introduction), crushed leaves instead.
film, are just some of them. • 2 tbsp tamarind paste Find Chinese black rice vinegar
• 1 tbsp fish sauce online at Or mix
½ tsp balsamic vinegar with ½ tsp
1 For the tamarind caramel, pound rice wine vinegar and ½ tbsp water.
the chillies, shallot, coriander stems Chilli bean paste is available at
and garlic to a paste in a pestle and If you can’t find it,
mortar (or whizz together in a mini use sriracha sauce (from large
food processor). supermarkets) instead. →

the residency.


Tofu with caramel and
sichuan pepper
FOR THE TOFU Miso caramel banoffee • 150g dark chocolate, chopped
• 396g block firm tofu (we used éclairs • 3 ripe bananas, sliced, to serve
Cauldron, from large supermakets) MAKES 20-25. HANDS-ON TIME 1 HOUR
• Olive oil for frying 15 MIN, OVEN TIME 35 MIN, PLUS CHILLING YOU’LL ALSO NEED…
• 1 tbsp sesame seeds, toasted • 2 disposable piping bags fitted
briefly in a dry pan until Forget the traditional with 12mm and 10mm plain nozzles
fragrant torpedoes of flabby choux pastry (or snip the corners off)
• Crispy fried shallots (from festooned with cream and faux • 2-3 baking sheets lined with
a tub) and micro coriander chocolate. This new-gen éclair non-stick baking paper
(see tips) to serve comes with a modern makeover:
caramel crème pâtissière sexed 1 For the crème pâtissière, gently
FOR THE CARAMEL SAUCE up with the umami-ish appeal of heat 150g of the sugar and 75ml cold
• 125g soft brown sugar white miso paste. water in a deep pan until the sugar
• 1 tbsp red wine vinegar has dissolved. Increase the heat and
• ½ tbsp Chinese black rice vinegar The crème pâtissière will bubble until it turns into a dark
(see tips) MAKE keep in the fridge for up to amber caramel. Meanwhile, gently
• 25ml light soy sauce 2 days with a piece of cling heat the milk, miso paste and vanilla
• ½ tbsp chilli bean paste film touching the surface. pod in another pan until steaming,
(see tips) Bake the éclairs a day ahead and then pour into a jug and remove the
• 1 tsp grated fresh keep in an airtight container. Finish vanilla pod (rinse, dry and use to
ginger them no more than 2 hours ahead. flavour sugar, if you like).
• 1 garlic clove, crushed Make the chocolate glaze 1-2 days 2 Once the caramel has reached the
• ¼ tsp sichuan pepper ahead and keep in a container in the desired colour, lower the heat and
• ½ bird’s eye chilli, finely fridge. Reheat gently in a pan to carefully pour in the milk mixture,
sliced loosen before glazing the éclairs. mixing slowly with a hand whisk. Be
The chocolate may start to careful as it may spit at first. Keep
1 Put the tofu block on a plate TEAM’S set when you’re glazing the whisking until all the milk has been
between 2 thick wads of kitchen éclairs. If so, add 1 tsp hot added. Bring up to the boil, then
paper. Press down firmly to squeeze water and stir to loosen it. To give remove from the heat.
out as much moisture as possible, the glaze a great finish, dip the top 3 In a heatproof bowl, whisk the egg
then use more kitchen paper to pat of each one into the glaze, then run yolks, cornflour and remaining 100g
the surface of the tofu block dry. a clean finger over to coat evenly. sugar until smooth. Still whisking,
2 Heat a glug of oil in a non-stick For a super-smooth crème pour the milk mixture slowly over
frying pan and fry the tofu on both pâtissière, use a stick blender to the egg yolks, then pour it all
sides for 4-5 minutes in total until whizz the custard after chilling (step through a fine mesh sieve, back into
crisp and golden. Remove from the 4), before adding the double cream. the milk pan.
pan (reserve the pan) and set aside. 4 Return the pan to a medium heat
3 To make the caramel sauce, put FOR THE MISO CARAMEL CRÈME PÂTISSIÈRE and whisk until it forms a smooth,
the sugar and 3 tbsp cold water in • 250g caster sugar thickened custard. Pour into a bowl,
the pan and heat gently until the • 500ml semi-skimmed milk lay cling film on the surface (to stop
sugar dissolves and turns into an • 2 tbsp white miso paste a skin forming) and chill for 30
SUSY ATKINS’ amber caramel. Add the remaining • 1 vanilla pod, split in half minutes. Once it’s chilled (see tips),
WINE PICKS caramel sauce ingredients and stir • 5 medium free-range egg yolks whip the cream in a separate bowl
The vibrant to combine. (see tip on following recipe, p63, to soft peaks, then gently fold into
flavours of the
prawns with 4 Return the tofu to the pan and for freezing egg whites) the custard. Cover again with cling
tamarind baste in caramel sauce. Slice • 50g cornflour film touching the surface and chill
caramel demand thickly, then serve on a platter, • 75ml double cream until needed (see Make Ahead).
a hugely fruity,
tangy white.
drizzled with the remaining caramel 5 For the choux pastry, heat the
Make it New sauce and topped with the toasted FOR THE CHOUX PASTRY oven to 220°C/200°C fan/gas 7. Put
Zealand sesame seeds, crispy shallots and • 75g unsalted butter, cubed the butter and 185ml cold water in a
sauvignon blanc. micro coriander. • 115g plain flour, sifted medium saucepan set over a medium
For the tofu
with caramel PER SERVING 324kcals, 14.7g fat • 3 medium free-range eggs, beaten heat until the butter has melted.
sauce, open an (2.4g saturated), 13.7g protein, • Splash of milk (optional) Bring to the boil, remove from the
off-dry white, 32.9g carbs (32.1g sugars), 1g salt, heat and pour in the sifted flour. Beat
such as a Mosel
2.5g fibre FOR THE CHOCOLATE GLAZE vigorously using a wooden spoon
riesling spätlese
or vouvray For more ways to use sichuan • 150g caster sugar until smooth, glossy and coming away
demi-sec. pepper, see Loose Ends • 75ml double cream from the sides of the pan. Tip into →

the residency.

Miso caramel
banoffee éclairs

A few notes on turning sugar

into liquid gold
Making caramel at home can be a source of
anxiety – mostly because it can be capricious.
It can crystallise, burn or, worse still, burn
you. Here are a few tricks I’ve learned over
the years that have finally given me the Midas
touch where sugar is concerned:

• Use a heavy-based pan that keeps a steady

temperature; using a thin, flimsy pan with
hot spots is courting disaster.
• Add water to the sugar. Purists make dry
caramel by melting sugar alone – I find adding
enough water to saturate the sugar makes it
melt more easily and cook more evenly.
• Cook caramel on a low to medium heat.
• Don’t be tempted to stir it – simply tilt
and swirl the pan so the melting sugar
dissolves without dry patches. Stirring is
also the road to dreaded crystallisation.
• Give the melting sugar the undivided
attention of a devoted lover. Caramel can go
from pale amber to burnt mahogany in
seconds if your eyes wander.
Saffron and orange
blossom crème
caramels with
cardamom and
orange rhubarb
the residency.

a bowl and push the mixture up the cooked way past golden into 140°C/120°C fan/gas 1. In a bowl,
sides to cool it quickly. Leave for amber, mahogany and a whisker whisk together the orange blossom
10 minutes or until it has cooled to away from burnt. That edge of water, milk, saffron (and its soaking
room temperature. dark, bitter caramel against the milk) and cream. In a separate bowl,
6 Slowly add the eggs, beating well sweet, creamy custard makes for whisk together the whole eggs and
after each addition, until the mixture the most delightful flavour. yolks with the remaining 75g sugar.
is smooth and drops off the end of Sometimes it’s best not to mess Slowly pour the cream mixture over
a wooden spoon when tapped. (You with classics, but I’ve taken the the eggs, whisking all the time.
may not need all the eggs or you may liberty of adding a Middle 4 Put the ramekins in a roasting tin,
need to add a splash of milk.) Eastern flourish to this one. then pour the custard mixture
7 Spoon the mixture into the piping evenly among them, on top of the
bag fitted with the 12mm nozzle Make the caramels and caramel. Fill the tin with enough hot
and pipe 8 x 10cm lengths onto MAKE
AHEAD rhubarb a day ahead, then water to come halfway up the sides
each prepared baking sheet, leaving cover and chill separately. of the ramekins. Bake for 1 hour,
room for the choux to expand in Freeze egg whites in a food then remove from the roasting tin
the oven. Bake for 20 minutes, TEAM’S bag marked with the date/ and leave to cool completely. Chill
then reduce the heat to 180°C/160°C quantity for up to 3 months. for an hour to firm up before
fan/gas 4 and bake for 15 minutes serving. When ready to serve, run
more. Cool on a wire rack. Repeat • 400g rhubarb, cut into 7cm lengths a knife around the inside of each
with the remaining choux on the • 200g caster sugar ramekin and invert onto a plate.
other baking sheet/s. • Grated zest 1 orange, plus 125ml Serve with the rhubarb.
8 Meanwhile make the chocolate orange juice PER SERVING 471kcals, 28.7g fat
glaze. Gently heat the sugar and • 6 green cardamom pods, bashed (16.4g saturated), 5.5g protein,
50ml cold water in a small pan until 47.2g carbs (47.2g sugars), 0.1g salt,
dissolved. Turn up the heat and FOR THE CRÈME CARAMELS 1g fibre
bubble until it turns a light amber • 225g caster sugar
colour. Remove from the heat and • 2 tsp orange blossom water
stir in the cream, another 50ml cold • 200ml whole milk INSPIRED? WATCH THE MOVIE…
water and the dark chocolate. • Tiny pinch saffron, crushed in Caramel (2007)
was directed by
Return to the heat and warm gently 1 tbsp warm milk Nadine Labaki,
until melted and combined. • 350ml double cream who’s also one of
9 Using a bread knife, halve the • 2 free-range medium eggs, plus the stars, and is
available to watch
cooled eclairs horizontally, then dip 4 egg yolks (see tip)
with English
the tops in the glaze (see tips) and subtitles from
set aside. Spoon the crème YOU’LL ALSO NEED…
pâtissière into the piping bag with • 8 x 150ml (medium) ramekins
the 10mm plain nozzle and pipe it
onto the bases. Add slices of banana 1 Heat the oven to 200°C/180°C fan/
and top with the glazed lids to serve. gas 6. Toss the rhubarb in a roasting
PER ÉCLAIR (FOR 25) 214kcals, tin with the 200g sugar, orange zest
9.6g fat (5.3g saturated), 3.2g protein, and juice and cardamom to coat.
28.4g carbs (22.8g sugars), 0.1g salt, Roast for 10-15 minutes until tender.
0.6g fibre Cool, then put in a serving bowl,
cover and chill until needed (see
Saffron and orange Make Ahead).
blossom crème caramels 2 For the crème caramels, combine
with cardamom and 150g of the sugar with 100ml cold
orange rhubarb water in a pan and heat gently until
SERVES 8. HANDS-ON TIME 35 MIN, the sugar dissolves. Keep on
OVEN TIME 1 HOUR 10-15 MIN a medium heat until it turns into a
deep brown caramel, taking care
Good crème caramels are so not to burn it – watch it like a hawk.
much more complex than the When ready, quickly pour the caramel
sickly-sweet pots of French evenly among the ramekins, tilting
hypermarket infamy. They them to coat the bases and sides
require bravery and daring from evenly. Put aside to cool and set.
the cook as the caramel must be 3 Reduce the oven temperature to 63

“I’ve fallen for so many

places through food that it
sometimes feels as if my life
has been a series of affairs”

The joys of ripe Mediterranean fruit are just one of the things food writer
Diana Henry reminisces about in her new book of menus and memories,
How to Eat a Peach. The eagerly awaited work combines her love of
food and lust for travel, twin passions nurtured from her earliest days.
The menu she shares here is inspired by her many journeys to France,
where she lost her heart as a teenager and which lays claim to it still
book of the month.

Leeks with Breton

vinaigrette and pork
rillettes, p67 – add
a few other nibbles
for a very French
sharing starter


Kir Breton
A sharing starter of leeks with Breton
vinaigrette, pork rillettes, charcuterie,
hard-boiled eggs & crusty bread
Crepes dentelles with
apples and caramel 65
hen I was 16 I started to keep a menu book, pudding, and everybody wants a quick starter. “Will these
a school exercise book I’d carefully covered in dishes work together?” is something I’m frequently asked.
wrapping paper. This was an odd obsession
because I didn’t cook the majority of the menus I created; THE MENU RULES (OK)
I would’ve needed a restaurant to get through them all. There are some practical ‘rules’, though they’re open to
The pleasure was in putting the menus together. being bent, even completely broken. Ideally, no more than
I still have the notebook. Most of the meals are simple: two courses should be cooked at the last minute, otherwise
cucumber salad with dill and soured cream, goulash, you’ll be stressed. (This rule can be dispensed with if you
baked autumn fruit, crudités (the kind I’d had in France), are one of those cooks who can deep-fry while making
poulet bonne femme, galette aux pommes. There are no sparkling conversation with 12 people. I am not one of
dishes from some of the cuisines I now love – the Middle those cooks.) A meal shouldn’t be too rich: cream should
East or Vietnam, for example – and there are a few old- only appear in one course (though you can always have it
fashioned, embarrassingly complicated menus I wouldn’t with pudding). It’s not ideal to repeat ingredients. Consider
dream of attempting these days: buckwheat blinis with colour, texture and temperature and, it almost goes
warm butter, soured cream and smoked salmon; guinea without saying, eat seasonally.
fowl breasts in pastry with duxelles and madeira sauce; My parents weren’t ‘foodies’ (thank God); we just ate
Grand Marnier soufflé. I did actually cook this. Was I mad? good food every day and had access to great ingredients
I gave my first ‘dinner party’ soon after I started keeping (I’m from Northern Ireland, where the beef, fish and dairy
my menu book. My school friends were bemused by the are excellent). I learned to cook well. There were no grand
candlelit room (I’d gone over the top). “Are we going to dinners but there were parties where the craic and the
celebrate Mass?” one asked but I continued, undaunted. whisky were as important as the food. Stuffed olives in the
I loved ‘having people over’ but, even more, I loved putting fridge (fancy at the time) and the rich, woody tones of
a menu together. It’s still my favourite bit of cooking. I don’t Frank Sinatra filling the house meant good times.
issue invitations and then wonder what to cook – I come
up with a menu and wonder who would like to eat it. A TASTE FOR ADVENTURE
Why did I decide to write a whole book of menus when We didn’t travel. With six of us it was unaffordable. When
people can compose their own? Because I get asked more we went on holidays to Dublin we’d go to the airport so we
questions about menus than anything else. Friday nights could watch planes taking off. I always felt on the edge of
and Saturday mornings bring endless phone calls and texts possibilities but I went places via books and cooking. How
from friends preparing meals for Saturday night who’ve to Eat a Peach started out as a book of menus but turned
decided on a main course but don’t know what to have for into something more, into a book about how we dream of
places and experience ‘otherness’ through food, sometimes
in a way that is daunting and confusing. The book is as
much about place as it is about meals.
My first trip outside Ireland was to France. A homesick
15 year old, I went to stay with a family I’d never met to
improve my French. My counterpart, Clothilde, was a
wonderful cook and we spent every day planning meals. I
became obsessed with France – and with food – on that trip.
When I was in my 20s, while friends went backpacking
in Asia, I worked my way round every region of France
with Patricia Wells’ The Food Lover’s Guide to France as my
guide. Once I settled in London I went to the French
seaside every Easter. A trip to Normandy always meant
a meal at Les Vapeurs in Trouville (see overleaf).
I couldn’t afford the seafood platters in those days but
I was happy with mussels cooked in cider, enriched with
Normandy cream. Brittany meant buckwheat crêpes and
a wilder coastline. Lunch meant oysters and sourdough
from a stall on the roadside, supper a roll-your-sleeves-up
affair where you tucked into crevettes and crab claws. The
salty tang of seaweed and the aroma of caramelised sugar
– from mobile crêperies – hung in the air.
I’ve fallen for so many places through food, it sometimes
feels as if my life has been a series of affairs. I’ve always
been on the verge of moving and starting elsewhere. France
is special though, my first love. Let’s eat there.
Listen to our Extra Portions podcast with Diana via iTunes,
the Podcast app or And check out her
Instagram takeover on 27 April:
book of the month.

Kir Breton • 1 scant tbsp white wine vinegar, or

SERVES 1 to taste
• ¼ tsp dijon mustard, or to taste
Kir is usually made with crème de • Pinch ground mixed spice
cassis and, traditionally, bourgogne • 8 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil
aligoté (a zesty white wine from • Pinch caster sugar
Burgundy), but kir Breton – and also • 1½ tbsp capers, rinsed and
kir Normand – is made with cider. patted dry
Just put a splash of crème de cassis • ½ tbsp very finely chopped
in the bottom of a champagne glass, shallots
then top up the glass with dry cider… • 1 tbsp finely chopped fresh
preferably one from Brittany or flatleaf parsley leaves
Normandy, obviously. • ½ tbsp each finely chopped fresh
PER SERVING 71kcals, no fat, no chervil leaves and chives
protein, 4.9g carbs (4.9g sugars), • 6 medium leeks
trace salt, no fibre
1 Make the vinaigrette by mixing the
Leeks with Breton white wine vinegar, dijon mustard
vinaigrette and mixed spice with some sea salt
SERVES 4. HANDS-ON TIME 15 MIN, flakes and ground black pepper in
2 Whisk in the extra-virgin olive oil
Leeks vinaigrette was one using a fork. Add the sugar, capers,
of the dishes that made me fall shallots and herbs, then taste for
in love with French food; I ate it seasoning and balance (you might
on my first trip to France when need a little more vinegar or
I went there on an exchange mustard). It’s good to make this
trip. Most people make leeks about 30 minutes in advance so
vinaigrette without a recipe, the flavours can meld.
but the dressing here, which 3 Remove and discard the tough
I tried while on holiday in outer leaves from the leeks. Slice
Brittany, goes beyond the off and discard the tufty bit on the
standard and is worth knowing. base of each leek and also the dark
I usually serve this with other green tops. Cut the leeks into 4cm
bits and pieces that make up pieces. Wash them really well,
the typical French spread that making sure that you get rid of any
they describe (rather modestly) grit or soil between the layers. Pork rillettes SUSY ATKINS’
as crudités: radishes, hard- Steam over boiling water – this way MAKES 1KG. HANDS-ON TIME 15 MIN,
The punchy leeks
boiled eggs, charcuterie, the leeks don’t become too wet – for COOKING TIME 4 HOURS call for a bright,
sometimes other vegetable 4-6 minutes (see tips). They should fruity white such
dishes such as carottes rapèes be completely tender right through Homemade rillettes usually as a Loire Valley
chenin blanc.
(grated carrot salad) and lentilles (test with the tip of a sharp knife). taste better than ready-made A strawberryish
en salade (lentil salad). 4 As soon as the leeks are done, (at least they do when you’re not beaujolais or dry
tip them onto a clean dish cloth and in France). They do take time cider are star
Make the salad dressing gently pat to soak up the excess (though not a lot of efort) and matches for the
MAKE up to 1 week ahead and rillettes, and
AHEAD moisture; the vinaigrette will cling this should be an easy meal, so crisp whites such
keep in a sealed container to the leeks much better if they’re buy the rillettes if you prefer. as bordeaux
in the fridge. not wet. Immediately put them in To render pork fat, cut the fat sauvignon blanc
or muscadet are
If you don’t have a steamer a serving bowl and, while they’re into cubes, melt it in a heavy- always a hit with
TEAM’S put the leeks in a metal still hot, dress them with the based saucepan over a low heat, mouclade. For
colander set over a pan of vinaigrette. Taste to check the then strain the resulting liquid the crepes,
boiling water and cover with a pan seasoning, then serve warm or fat through a sieve. a strong, sweet
beaumes de

lid. Put over a medium heat and at room temperature. venise is the
steam the leeks – the time will vary PER SERVING 260kcals, 23.1g fat When well sealed with a winning sip.
depending on their size. Large leeks (3.4g saturated), 3.5g protein, MAKE layer of fat in sterilised jars,
may take an extra 2-3 minutes to 6.3g carbs (4.7g sugars), 0.3g salt, you can keep this in the
become completely tender. 6.2g fibre fridge for up to 4 months. Make → 67
• 500g boneless British free-range air pockets. If you’re not eating
DIANA’S INSPIRING PLACES pork shoulder immediately, cover with greaseproof
WHERE New York City • 500g boneless British free-range paper that you’ve rubbed with
WHY All is here, from tiny off-the-beaten-track pork belly, rind removed reserved pork fat and let it cool
finds to glitzy tables. Breakfasts of bagels and lox • 350g rendered pork fat (see completely; it will firm up a bit.
at Russ and Daughters on the Lower East Side, recipe introduction; find pork fat 4 Melt some of the reserved pork fat
a late lunch at Via Carota in the West Village (one at good butchers), or good quality in a pan, then pour a 5mm layer
of my favourite Italian restaurants), cocktails store-bought lard over the tops of the rillettes to form
and oysters at Maison Premiere in Brooklyn and • 6 fresh thyme sprigs a seal. Put the papers back on top
dinner at Estela, north of Little Italy – all musts. • 3 bay leaves and put in the fridge (see Make
WHERE Piedmont, Italy • 4 cloves Ahead). The rillettes taste better
WHY You can smell the white truffles before you • Generous pinch ground mixed spice after a couple of days, though
see them. I want them on tajarin, the pasta of the • Generous grating nutmeg I tend to eat some right away.
region, and in fonduta, Piedmont’s egg-enriched PER 100G SERVING 423kcals,
version of fondue. Late Sunday afternoons are YOU’LL ALSO NEED… 39.2g fat (15.2g saturated),
for sitting outside bars sipping dolcetto as it gets • Piece of muslin or new J-cloth 17g protein, 0.5g carbs (no sugars),
dark. Never forget to bring home hazelnuts. • Sterilised jars if you’re intending 0.9g salt, no fibre
WHERE Oaxaca, Mexico to keep the rillettes for longer
WHY Fermented pineapple to drink, chipolines than a week (see delicious Mouclade
(hot, garlicky dried grasshoppers) to snack on, SERVES 4. HANDS-ON TIME 40 MIN,
a thousand different dried chillies in the market PLUS STEEPING
and the smell of scorched corn everywhere. 1 Cut the pork shoulder into strips
WHERE Istanbul, Turkey about 2cm across, along the grain of Mouclade is eaten in and
WHY Revel in breakfast – salty white cheese, the meat. Cut the belly into slices around La Rochelle, on the
taut vegetables, yogurt, honey, melon, olives and about 1cm thick. Put the rendered west coast of France. There are
flatbread – then spend the day following your pork fat and 100ml water into a diferent versions, but the
nose for what to eat on the hop: a warm broad, heavy-based saucepan and characteristic ingredient is
sandwich of griddled mackerel, rose-scented ice set it over a very low heat. Add all curry powder. The dish, when
cream, mulberry juice and baklava… the meat. Tie the thyme, bay leaves you include safron as well, has
WHERE Brittany and Normandy and cloves in the square of muslin a lovely golden colour.
WHY A feast of shellfish: oysters and sourdough (or new J-cloth) and add to the pan.
at roadside stalls, towers of fruits de mer on ice Cook over a very low heat so the • Good pinch saffron threads
in art deco brasseries (such as Les Vapeurs in liquid just quivers, not bubbles, for • 2kg mussels
Trouville), plus calvados, crepes and cider. about 4 hours. The meat shouldn’t • 30g unsalted butter
WHERE Catalonia brown, just poach, and must always • 1 small onion, finely chopped
WHY Intense, surprising platefuls: rice black be covered with fat. Make sure • 2 garlic cloves, crushed
with squid ink (arroz negro), stuffed rabbit with it doesn’t stick to the base of the • ¾ tsp medium curry powder
a garlic mayo made with quince purée, sautés pan and turn it over from time to • 4 tbsp brandy
thickened with pounded toasted bread, garlic, time. It’s ready when it is completely • 2 tsp plain flour
herbs, anisette, and ice cream based on crema tender and feels as if you can pull • 200ml dry white wine
catalana (the region’s version of crème brulée). it apart. • 200ml double cream
2 Once the meat has cooled a bit, • Generous handful fresh flatleaf
remove the spice and herb bag and parsley leaves, finely chopped
shred the meat in the pan, pulling it
sure there are no air pockets in the apart with 2 forks. It should break YOU’LL ALSO NEED…
mixture and that the fat completely down into rough, soft strands. Strain • Piece of muslin or new J-Cloth
covers the top, then keep covered. the meat through a colander over a
Once you’ve broken the protective bowl to collect the fat. Put the meat 1 Put the saffron in a small
layer of fat, eat within 5 days. into another bowl and add the mixed heatproof bowl and cover with
This recipe makes more than spice, nutmeg, and some salt and 80ml boiling water. Leave to steep
DIANA’S you need; half the quantity pepper; be generous, you need to for 30 minutes. Meanwhile, clean
will feed 4 people. Halve the season well to make good rillettes. the mussels, removing any beards
quantities if you prefer, but it’s better Stir in enough of the strained off (fine threads) and barnacles (scrape
to make rillettes in large quantities, fat to give it a creamy texture, then the latter off with a table knife) and
otherwise it tends to get kind of dry reserve the rest. washing the shells. Tap each against
while cooking, so I’d recommend 3 Put the mixture into bowls (or pack the sink as you go and discard any
making this larger amount. into sterilised jars), eliminating any that are open and don’t close. →

book of the month.

“I don’t issue invitations and then wonder

what to cook – I come up with a menu and
wonder who would like to eat it”

2 Melt the butter in a pan and gently to master: quickly tilt the pan water and gradually whisk into the
sauté the onion until soft but not after adding the batter so it well until smooth. Stir in the 30g
coloured. Add the garlic and curry thinly coats the bottom; pour of melted butter, cover with cling film
powder and cook for another the excess every time you add and rest for 1 hour. (Or make this in
2 minutes to release the curry more batter; adjust the heat as a blender: whizz the ingredients for
powder’s fragrance. Add the brandy necessary; and be careful not to 1 minute, scrape down the sides and
BOOK, FREE! and let it boil until it has reduced to add too much butter. You need a blend for another 5 seconds.)
These recipes are a couple of tablespoons. Reduce the well-seasoned pan that’s become 2 Meanwhile, to make the caramel,
from How to Eat heat, then stir in the flour, mixing well non-stick through wear, or a good put the 50g butter in a large pan (the
a Peach by Diana until everything is smooth. Cook for non-stick pan. The first pancake sauce will bubble a lot) and melt it
Henry (£25;
Mitchell Beazley), a minute, then take the pan off the is always a dud, so don’t worry. over a medium heat. Add the cream,
out on 5 April. heat and gradually add the saffron I was taught to make these by sugar and salt and bring to a boil,
Take advantage and its water, stirring. Set aside. my first French boyfriend. stirring to help dissolve the sugar.
of this month’s 3 Put the wine and mussels in a He was called Christophe. I was Reduce the heat and simmer for
subscription offer
(see p78) and large saucepan and cover with a lid. 15. So for me this is more than 10 minutes, whisking from time to
receive a copy of Cook over a medium-high heat for simply a recipe. time. Add the vanilla. Set aside.
Diana’s wonderful about 4 minutes, shaking the pan 3 Cut the apples into thin wedges,
new book.
from time to time, until the mussels You can make the batter up about 5mm at the thickest part.
have opened. Strain the mussels MAKE to 48 hours ahead, then Heat the 50g butter in a large
over a bowl (use a large colander), cover and chill, or freeze frying pan – you don’t want to
collecting their liquor in the bowl. it in a sealed container for up to crowd the pan or the apples will
Discard any mussels that haven’t 1 month. Fully defrost before using in steam instead of fry. Cook the
opened and put the rest back into this recipe. The caramel sauce will apples on both sides until golden
the saucepan. Cover to keep warm. keep in a sealed container in the (they can still be firm in the middle).
4 Strain the cooking liquor through fridge for 1 week. Scrape into a pan Sprinkle with the caster sugar and
a sieve lined with muslin, or a new and gently reheat to serve. cook over a medium heat until lightly
J-cloth (you need to get rid of any This makes a generous caramelised (about 3 minutes). Lay
sand or grit), and gently reheat the TEAM’S quantity of batter. Freeze the apples on a plate in a single
saffron sauce you were making any leftovers as above and layer; if they’re on top of each other
earlier. Gradually add the mussel use another time. they’ll continue to cook and can lose
liquor, stirring as you do so, then their sugar-toasted edges.
bring the sauce to a boil and simmer • 125g plain flour 4 Melt a very small knob of butter in
for about 3 minutes. Add the cream • 30g caster sugar a well-seasoned or non-stick frying
and simmer for a further 4 minutes • 300ml whole milk pan and swirl it to coat the pan.
until it has reduced and the sauce is • 1 medium free-range egg, Ladle in batter (see Diana’s recipe
a little thicker. Taste for seasoning plus 1 egg yolk introduction) – again just enough to
and stir in the parsley. • 30g unsalted butter, melted, plus thinly coat – quickly swirl around the
5 Put the mussels in a large warmed more to cook the pancakes pan, then pour off any excess (these
serving bowl or keep them in the • Crème fraîche to serve crepes need to be really thin). Cook
saucepan in which they were cooked, over a medium heat until golden
if you prefer. Pour the sauce over FOR THE CARAMEL underneath, then flip using a metal
them and serve immediately. • 50g unsalted butter spatula and fry on the other side.
PER SERVING 542kcals, 36.2g fat • 125ml double cream Add as small an amount of butter as
(21.1g saturated), 26.8g protein, • 100g soft light brown sugar needed, but never too much. If the
5.7g carbs (2.9g sugars), 1.1g salt, • ½ tsp sea salt flakes pan gets too hot and you burn the
1.3g fibre • ¼ tsp vanilla extract butter, wipe it out and start again.
Keep the pancakes in a pile in a low
Crepes dentelles with FOR THE APPLES oven until you’ve cooked them all.
apples and caramel • 2 tart apples, peeled, halved 5 Serve the pancakes with the
SERVES 4-6. HANDS-ON TIME 35 MIN, and cored cooked apples and caramel sauce
PLUS 1 HOUR RESTING • 50g unsalted butter (if you’ve made the sauce in
• 1 tbsp caster sugar advance, gently reheat it, if you
The word ‘dentelles’ means like) and crème fraîche.
lace and refers to the fine, 1 Sift the flour, sugar and a pinch of PER SERVING (FOR 6) 518kcals,
delicate edges of these crepes. salt into a large bowl and make a 33.2g fat (20.1g saturated), 6.3g
Making them well requires a few well in the centre. In a jug, whisk the protein, 47.8g carbs (31.9g sugars),
tricks, though they’re very easy milk, egg and egg yolk with 100ml 0.5g salt, 1.4g fibre

book of the month.

Crepes dentelles
with apples and
When James Martin headed Stateside for his new book and TV series, he set out to show
us all how great the country’s food is and the good ol’ US of A didn’t disappoint. This
larger-than-life Texan recipe is the pinnacle of crowdpleasers – an ideal end-of-week treat


Forget politics – it’s the people that make America
• Large frying/sauté pan or shallow
great. The folks I met on my journey couldn’t have been
flameproof casserole that fits
more friendly and the produce couldn’t have been better
under the grill
to cook with. For that, America, I want to thank you for
one of the best trips of my life and for allowing me (I hope)
1 To make the sauce: heat the oil in
to help to change people’s perception of Stateside food.
the pan/casserole and fry the onion
I came back to the UK thinking, sure, they have some odd
and garlic for a few minutes. Stir
things to eat over there but they also have some of the best
in the diced peppers, then add the
food in the world. And if you make a trip to the USA
fresh and tinned tomatoes, coffee,
following the same rule I did – never eat anything
brown sugar, treacle, tomato
bigger than your head – you’ll come back only a
ketchup, vinegar (or Worcestershire
few pounds heavier than when you left, with
sauce), chilli, oregano, star anise,
your opinion of US food changed forever.
smoked paprika and kidney beans.
Bring to the boil, then turn down the
heat and simmer for 10 minutes.
2 Put the beef mince in a large bowl.
Add the breadcrumbs, egg, egg
yolk and mustard, and season well
with salt and pepper. Mix everything
Cheesy Texas meatballs • 1 tbsp dijon mustard together thoroughly. Divide the
SERVES 6. HANDS-ON TIME 40 MIN • 200g cheddar, finely grated mixture into 12 equal portions, then
shape into balls using your hands.
Make the meatballs and FOR THE SAUCE 3 Remove and discard the star anise
MAKE sauce 2-3 days ahead and • 2 tbsp olive oil from the sauce, then taste and adjust
keep in separate, covered • 1 onion, finely chopped the seasoning. Drop the meatballs
containers in the fridge. Reheat the • 8 garlic cloves, crushed into the sauce and simmer gently for
sauce, then add the meatballs and • 2 red peppers, diced 5-10 minutes, turning occasionally.
cook as in the recipe, adding a little • 6 tomatoes, quartered 4 Heat the grill to medium-high. PHOTOGRAPHS: PETER CASSIDY. STYLING: REBECCA NEWPORT
READER extra cooking time if you’re cooking • 400g tin chopped tomatoes Once the meatballs are cooked,
OFFER the meatballs from fridge-cold. • 400ml black coffee (not instant) sprinkle a small pile of the grated
This recipe is from You could reduce the sugar • 4 tbsp dark brown sugar cheese over each meatball and
James Martin’s FOOD
TEAM’S if you wish (and use less • 2 tsp black treacle grill for a couple of minutes until
American TIP
Adventure: 80 chilli if you don’t like spicy • 100ml tomato ketchup bubbling and golden. Serve the rest
Classic American food). These are large American- • 4 tbsp red wine vinegar or 2 tbsp of the grated cheese on the side.
Recipes (£25; size meatballs – if you prefer you Worcestershire sauce PER SERVING 593kcals, 25.8g fat
Quadrille). You can
buy a copy at the could roll 24 smaller balls. • 1 red chilli, sliced (11.8g saturated), 51.3g protein,
special price of • 1 tsp dried oregano 34.8g carbs (24.5g sugars), 1.77g
£20 including free • 1kg lean beef mince • 3 star anise salt, 7.8g fibre
P&P. To order,
• 2 tbsp panko breadcrumbs • 2 tsp smoked paprika WINE EDITOR’S CHOICE Californian
please call 01256
302699 quoting the • 1 medium free-range egg, plus • 400g tin kidney beans, or Chilean cabernet sauvignon, or
code PH1. 1 yolk drained a cool, refreshing bottled lager.


“Food was a way

to remember home
and culture”
Inspired by her father’s kitchen tales of decades past and drawn to
far-flung family members, journalist Kemi Bamgbose traces the trail of her
dad’s much-loved dishes – from London to their roots in West Africa and Brazil

y most vivid childhood and gone back to Nigeria when food was a way to remember home
memories are of time slavery was abolished in Brazil in and their culture, and it was also
spent with my dad in my 1888. Many continued to travel important in some religious
family’s kitchen in south London. between West Africa and Brazil, practices. Every aspect of Salvador
Dad was Nigerian with Afro- with a small contingent settling reminded me so much of Lagos, a
Brazilian roots and moved to the permanently in Salvador de Bahia place I’d visited, from the people to
UK more than 30 years ago. He was on the northeastern coast of Brazil. the music, the arts and culture to
a keen cook and, as we helped him Dad used to cook dishes such as the Portuguese-influenced colonial-
sift through piles of black-eyed frejon, a coconut and black-eyed style architecture. But most striking
beans, getting rid of any cracked or bean soup eaten at Easter among of all was the similarity in cuisine.
shrivelled ones, he’d tell us stories descendants of returnee families. On my first night in Salvador
about Nigeria, bringing to life the He’d also make moin moin, a bean I walked along the pier and caught
Lagos of his youth. cake steamed in banana leaves, and the familiar pungent scent of palm
Both sides of his family (the jollof beans, cooked in a rich tomato oil on the sea breeze. Following my
Alakijas and Bamgboses) were sauce (see recipe, p76). nose, I found my first taste of home,
prominent ‘returnees’, the name He told us about the colourful an acarajé stall. Acarajé (akara in
given to families who’d left Brazil costumes and dancing at the annual Yoruba) was brought to Brazil by
carnival in Lagos, set up by returnee enslaved West Africans and is now
families as a way of remembering a popular street food typically sold
their ancestors and the end of by Baianas, black women who dress
slavery. It seemed faraway and in white, lace-trimmed clothing
exotic compared to London. It was with colourful head wraps, who
only years later that I made the have since become an important
connection between Dad’s cultural symbol of Bahia’s rich
reminiscences and our careful West African heritage.
culinary preparations: black-eyed The mashed black-eyed bean
beans are the base of many a dish cakes are fried in a calorific vat of
in Nigeria and Brazil; they’re an dende (palm oil), with sliced onion
edible link between continents and to add flavour. The cooked cakes are
people, past and present. cut in half and filled with shrimp,
Inspired by Dad’s stories, last year okra or vatapa, a spicy paste, and
I fulfilled a long-held dream and accompanied by salad. Acarajé plays
travelled to Salvador de Bahia to an important role in the Afro-
meet distant family members – and Brazilian religion Candomblé,
food was at the heart of my journey. where bean cakes are offered to the
For many enslaved West Africans, Orishas, a pantheon of deities
food memories.



originating from the Nigerian

Yoruba tradition. Acarajé is still
culturally significant in Yoruba
culture today: it is cooked and eaten
40 days after the death or burial of
a loved one – a custom we observed
in honour of my dad.
The highlights of my trip centred
around food and my dad’s family.
The Alakijas are a big family who
live in two adjacent apartments. My
Aunty Geonalda lives in one with
her family, and her mother, 95 years
of age and as sharp as a razor, lives FROM TOP Old Town,
next door. Their lovingly made, Salvador, Brazil; acarajé
and the Baianas who sell it;
warm-hearted welcome feast Kemi with Aunty Geonalda
included okra stew; spiced shrimp; and her aunty’s mum;
fried plantain; acarajé; black-eyed typical Afro-Brazilian food
beans in palm oil; and chicken OPPOSITE Kemi with her dad

stew. I knew the names of all these

typical Bahian dishes and I was
stunned at how similar they were
to the Nigerian food I was used to.
I also met members of the
Bamgbose family, including my
distant cousin Susana who is the
great, great, great, granddaughter of
Bamboxê Obitiko, once a leading
figure in the Candomblé tradition.
Spending time with distant
relatives was a dream come true.
I know my dad would have loved
every aspect of the trip, particularly
the food. I can’t wait to visit my
distant relatives again and enjoy
a little taste of Nigeria in Brazil. Turn the page for Kemi’s jollof beans recipe → 75
food memories.

• Squeeze lime juice (optional)

• Cooked rice, bread, couscous or
fried plantain to serve

1 Pick through the black-eyed beans

and discard any stones or cracked
beans. Put in a bowl with plenty of
cold water and soak overnight.
2 The next day, rinse the beans and
drain, then put in a pan, cover with
cold water and cook, covered, over a
medium heat for 60-75 minutes until
tender. Top up the water in the pan if
necessary. Don’t add salt as it will
harden the beans.
3 Once the beans are soft and
cooked, drain and put in a bowl.
Season with a little salt and, using a
potato masher, mash the beans
slightly, so they’ll absorb more of the
flavour from the sauce.
4 Meanwhile, make the tomato
sauce. In a food processor/blender,
whizz the tomatoes, half the chopped
onion, the red pepper, garlic, ginger
and scotch bonnet to a paste.

5 Heat a large saucepan with a glug
of oil. When the oil is hot, add the
remaining chopped onion to the pan
and soften over a low-medium heat
for 5 minutes. Pour in the blended
tomato mixture, cover and cook on a
low heat for 10-15 minutes.
6 Stir in the crushed beans, then
season to taste with ½-1 tsp of the
all purpose seasoning and 1-2 tsp
Maggi liquid seasoning. If the sauce
is a little thick in consistency, add
a splash of water to thin. Stir well,
Jollof beans (black-eyed FOOD
To save time you could use a then cover the pot and simmer the
beans in tomato sauce) TEAM’S 400g tin black-eyed beans. beans for another 15-20 minutes,
SERVES 4. HANDS ON TIME 15 MIN, Drain and rinse under cold stirring occasionally to make sure
SIMMERING TIME 1 HOUR 40 MIN, PLUS water, then start from step 3. the beans are covered in sauce and
OVERNIGHT SOAKING AND RESTING the mixture doesn’t look dry (add
• 250g dried black-eyed beans a splash of water if it does).
Make the beans up to 3 days • 400g tin tomatoes 7 Once the beans are cooked, let
MAKE ahead and keep covered in • 1 large onion, chopped them rest in the pan for an hour or
the fridge. Reheat until • 1 red pepper, roughly chopped more, so the flavours can settle.
piping hot throughout to serve. • 1 garlic clove, crushed Warm the beans through and stir in
Traditionally this recipe is • 1 tsp ground ginger the chopped parsley and coriander.
KEMI’S made with dried crayfish, • ½ scotch bonnet chilli, deseeded Add a squeeze of lime juice, if you
but as this is hard to find • Sunflower or olive oil for frying like, and serve with rice, bread,
(unless you live near an African or • ½-1 tsp Dunn’s River All Purpose couscous or plantain as you wish.
Caribbean shop), non-vegans could Seasoning PER SERVING 321kcals, 6.9g fat
add a pack of chopped smoked • 1-2 tsp Maggi Liquid Seasoning (1g saturated), 17.2g protein,
mackerel fillets at the end of the • Handful freshly chopped parsley 42.4g carbs (10g sugars), 0.8g salt,
cooking time and heat through. • Handful chopped fresh coriander 10.1g fibre

7 deliciousmagaz

Susy Atkins rounds up best buys and premium gins

• Majestic Loves Grüner sparkler is made with WHAT’S HOT
Veltliner 2016, Hungary grape juice and green tea.
(£6.99, or £5.99 as part It’s surprisingly good; not Trend-setting gins

of a mixed six, Majestic) too sweet, with red berry he boom in premium
Refreshing, citrussy flavour and lively froth. gin shows no sign
Hungarian take on this • Extra Special Marques of waning. Big right
famous grape. Good with del Norte Rioja Reserva now are those that major
scallops, plaice or sole. 2013, Spain (£6.98 or 3 on floral botanicals or spicy
• The Bees Knees for 2 until 11 April, Asda) infusions and there’s a new
Sparkling Rosé, Germany A keenly priced rioja with trend for cask-aged gins; pricey
(£3.49, Morrisons; £3.99 a whack of vanilla-tinged bottles, but at their best
Ocado, Booths, Adnams) oak, plus strawberry and complex and subtle. Perfect for
This new alcohol-free cherry. Great with lamb. adding a new dimension to our
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FRIDAY SPECIAL with tonic – and in cocktails.
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• Mártisor Pinot Grigio pepper twist. One for & Cornflower Secret Garden
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Waitrose) Bright, sunny • Taste the Difference is the best of the new floral
white that’s fruitier than River Block Sauvignon gins, with light notes of grass
most Italian PGs (think Blanc 2017, Marlborough, and sweet hay meadows.
lemon and pineapple). New Zealand (£9, Martin Miller’s 9 Moons
A lip-smacking aperitif Sainsbury’s) Dazzling, Barrel Rested Gin (£45.75/35cl,
for a fine spring evening. delectable NZ sauvignon Wine Rack, Whisky Exchange,
• Gaston de Veau Syrah blanc, finely balanced Master of Malt) is a pale gold
2016, Languedoc, France with tongue-tingling cask-aged gin with a well
(£8.50, Marks & Spencer) notes of passion fruit, judged and balanced hint
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blackberries and a black hollandaise sauce. Gin Bothy Gunshot Infused Gin
SPLASH OUT £39.99 Master of Malt), a rich
gin liqueur infused with
• Bouchard Père & Fils (£16, Marks & Spencer) cinnamon and clove. Sip it neat.
La Vignée Chardonnay Broad-shouldered blend
2014, Burgundy, France with syrah and cabernet CUTTING IT FINE
(£13.99, independents sauvignon. Chunky cassis
including Penistone Wine and ripe redcurrant. Ideal Efficient yet inexpensive
Cellars and Sandhams with lamb tagine. wine gadgets are rare

Wine Merchants) Modern • Moët & Chandon Rosé finds but this soft-grip
fresh white Burgundy par Impérial Champagne, foil cutter is swift to
excellence. It’s all apples Brut NV, France (from remove stubborn (and
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with salmon steaks. and others) Fine rosé fizz metal wine capsules.
• Iona One Man Band with raspberry and cherry Put down that knife!
2013, Elgin, South Africa notes and a dry finish. John Lewis Wine Bottle
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How to Eat a Peach
By Diana Henry


Hurry! Offer ends
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N O FA D S , N O U N R E A L I ST I C H E A LT H C L A I M S… J U ST 2 0 I N S P I R I N G PA G E S
O F H O N E ST, N U T R I T I O U S , G O O D - F O R -YO U R E C I P E S , I N F O A N D I D E A S


Four simple, speedy and flavour-packed
recipes made using a tub of cream cheese


A wholesome, spicy bowlful for
one that’s ready in 20 minutes


Our lighter cottage pie reduces the fat and
calories but keeps all the comforting taste

Make it easier with five great
dishes that rely on the freezer


Stashing away a few shortcut ingredients in the freezer makes
light – yet still flavourful – work of weeknight cooking
Your guarantee for every recipe
in this feature: NO MORE THAN…
• 10 ingredients (not including oil)
• 30 minutes hands-on time
• 650 calories per portion (but
most recipes have fewer)
• 10g sat fat per portion
• No unnecessary
+ STAR + added sugar


eat well for life.

Fish finger kimchi rice Mackerel with potato hash 1 Heat the grill to medium. Put the
with edamame and SERVES 4. HANDS-ON TIME 15 MIN, mackerel fillets on the grill tray
a fried egg GRILL TIME 10 MIN skin-side up, drizzle over 1 tbsp oil and
SERVES 4. HANDS-ON TIME 15 MIN, OVEN season well with salt and pepper. Grill
TIME 20 MIN, SIMMERING TIME 15 MIN If you’re feeling hungry cook for 10 minutes until just cooked.
TEAM’S 6 mackerel fillets and a few 2 Meanwhile, heat the remaining 1 tbsp
If you can’t find kimchi, extra potatoes. oil in a large frying pan and fry the
TEAM’S use sauerkraut and add Swap mackerel for other shallots until softened and golden.
chilli sauce or sriracha. TIME frozen fish. Look out for Add the potatoes and turn up the
sustainable sea bass fillets. heat, tossing the potatoes and
• 8 frozen sustainable shallots to brown slightly (they
fish fingers • 4 frozen sustainable mackerel should start to break down a little).
• 350g basmati rice fillets, defrosted 3 Add the petits pois and lemon juice,
• Olive or vegetable oil for frying • 2 tbsp olive oil then toss through to cook gently.
• 4 free-range eggs • 150g frozen chopped shallots Stir in the chopped herbs and the
• 280g frozen edamame (soy • 10 frozen roast potatoes, defrosted lemon zest, then season with salt and
beans) and roughly chopped pepper. Divide among 4 plates, then
• 1 tsp black sesame seeds • 50g frozen petits pois top each with a mackerel fillet and
• 4 heaped tbsp kimchi or to taste, • Grated zest and juice 1 lemon generous dollops of yogurt. Scatter
plus extra to serve (see tip) • 25g fresh flatleaf parsley, chopped over extra dill to serve.
• Pinch frozen chopped jalapeño • 25g fresh dill, chopped, plus PER SERVING 575kcals, 33.5g fat (5.9g
chilli or dried chilli flakes extra to serve saturated), 19.9g protein, 47.4g carbs
• Fresh coriander leaves to serve • Greek yogurt to serve (2g sugars), 0.8g salt, 2g fibre →
• Brown rice vinegar (we used
Clearspring Organic Brown Rice
Vinegar, from Ocado) or
ordinary rice vinegar to serve + STAR +
1 Heat the oven to 220°C/200°C .BDLFSFMàMMFUT
fan/gas 7. Put the frozen fish
fingers on a baking tray and bake 4IBMMPUT
for 15-20 minutes, turning
halfway, until golden brown.
2 Meanwhile, put the rice in a
medium pan, pour over 600ml
cold water and bring to the boil.
Cover with a lid, then reduce the
heat to a gentle simmer. Cook for
15 minutes, then take off the heat
(still covered) and set aside while
you cook the eggs.
3 Heat a good glug of oil in
non-stick frying pan over a
medium-high heat and fry 4 eggs
for 2 minutes or until the whites
have set and are crisp at the edges.
4 Stir the edamame, sesame
seeds and kimchi into the hot rice
and roughly slice the fish fingers.
Serve the rice with the eggs and
fish fingers, sprinkled with chilli
and coriander. Serve with rice
vinegar to season.
PER SERVING 570kcals, 19.5g fat
(3.5g saturated), 23.6g protein,
74.9g carbs (2.3g sugars), 0.8g salt,
5g fibre 83
Butternut squash and • 6 fresh or dried lime leaves (optional)
+ STAR + cauliflower laksa with • 500g frozen butternut squash
INGREDIENTS rice noodles • 500g frozen cauliflower
Frozen veg SERVES 4. HANDS-ON TIME 20 MIN, SIMMERING TIME • 250g wide brown rice noodles
(butternut squash 15-20 MIN • Handful fresh coriander leaves to serve

Keep any leftover laksa, covered,
TEAM’S in the fridge for up to 3 days. 1 In a mini food processor or blender,
If you’re not vegetarian, try adding whizz the shallot, chilli, garlic, chopped
a little fish sauce to the broth in step 2. ginger, lemongrass paste and a touch
Vary the vegetables to suit what of salt to make a paste. Put the oil and
NEXT you have. Frozen stir-fry mixes are a spoonful of the cream from the top of the
worth stocking up on (choose one coconut milk tin in a wok or wide saucepan,
with sliced mushrooms and peppers). then add the whizzed paste and fry over
a medium heat until fragrant but not
• 1 banana shallot, halved golden. Season with salt and pepper.
• ½ green chilli (plus extra, sliced, to 2 Add the lime leaves (if using) and the rest
serve if you like) of the coconut milk to the pan, stir and bring
• 2 garlic cloves to a gentle simmer. Cook for 15-20 minutes
• 1 large piece fresh ginger, chopped, plus until the broth is well flavoured. Taste and
extra, sliced into matchsticks, to serve add salt if necessary. Add the frozen veg
• 1 heaped tbsp lemongrass paste from a for the last 5 minutes of cooking.
jar or tube (from the world food section 3 Meanwhile, cook the rice noodles in a pan
of large supermarkets) of boiling water for 5-6 minutes (or
• 2 tsp cold-pressed rapeseed oil according to the pack instructions), then
• 2 x 400ml tins half-fat coconut milk drain. Divide the noodles equally among
4 soup/ramen bowls and top with the laksa
broth and vegetables. Sprinkle with the
extra chilli (if using), ginger matchsticks
and coriander leaves, if you like.
PER SERVING 466kcals, 15.8g fat
(10g saturated), 15.1g protein, 63.1g carbs
(10.4g sugars), 1.3g salt, 5.3g fibre

• Vegetables: peas/
broad beans/
• Chopped shallots/
• Stocks and sauces
• Frozen prawns
• Sliced bread for toast
• Fish fillets
• Breadcrumbs
• Sausages
• Grated hard cheese
• Ready rolled
all-butter puff pastry
eat well for life.

+ STAR +
Chicken breasts

Lemon and garlic chicken • 70g frozen breadcrumbs chicken breasts in the flour, then the egg
schnitzels with quick • Finely grated zest 1 lemon and finally the breadcrumbs, shaking off
puttanesca sauce • 2 garlic cloves, crushed any excess each time.
SERVES 4. HANDS-ON TIME 30 MIN, • 2 tbsp olive oil 3 Put the chicken on a foil-lined baking
OVEN TIME 25 MIN • 2 x 400g tins cherry tomatoes tray and drizzle with 1 tbsp oil. Bake for
• 230g black olives (unpitted – see tip) 25 minutes, turning halfway through. Rest
Breadcrumb the chicken and make • 7 anchovy fillets from a jar or tin, the chicken for 5 minutes before slicing.
AHEAD the pasta sauce up to 2 days drained and roughly chopped 4 Meanwhile, fry the remaining garlic
ahead. Cover and chill separately. • Freshly chopped fresh flatleaf parsley in the remaining oil in a pan over a low
Unpitted black olives have a great (optional) to serve heat for 2 minutes, then add the tomatoes,
TEAM’S flavour. If you want to use pitted olives and anchovies. Season well and
olives, go for green olives instead. 1 Heat the oven to 220°C/200°C fan/gas 7. simmer briskly, stirring regularly, for
Swap chicken for defrosted large Using a rolling pin, gently bash the chicken 15 minutes (longer if you have time) until
NEXT sustainable frozen prawns. Coat in breasts between two sheets of cling film reduced and flavourful.
the breadcrumbs and cook in the until flattened to 2.5cm thick. Set aside. 5 Serve the chicken with the puttanesca
oven for 10-15 minutes. 2 Put the flour, egg and breadcrumbs in sauce, scatter with parsley (if using) and
3 separate shallow bowls. Break up cut the zested lemon into wedges to
• 3-4 large frozen free-range skinless the breadcrumbs to prevent lumps. Mix the squeeze over, if you like.
chicken breasts, defrosted finely grated lemon zest and ½ tsp of the PER SERVING 565kcals, 24.5g fat
• 50g plain flour crushed garlic into the flour and season (3.7g saturated), 53.5g protein, 30.3g carbs
• 2 free-range eggs, beaten well with salt and pepper. First coat the (8.2g sugars), 2.2g salt, 4.9g fibre → 85
eat well for life.

Sausage spaghetti with about 1 tbsp oil for 10 minutes, breaking it

spinach pesto up with the back of a wooden spoon and 5 TOP FREEZER TIPS
SERVES 4. HANDS-ON TIME 30 MIN stirring occasionally, until golden and crisp. 1 Always name and date everything
2 Cook the spaghetti in a large pan of you freeze, including the date when
Swap the sausages for bacon boiling salted water for 8 minutes or until al it needs to be used by.
NEXT and the spinach in the pesto for dente (with bite). Drain, reserving a little 2 It’s easy to forget what’s in the
frozen, defrosted peas. cooking water, then return the cooked freezer so keep an inventory near it,
spaghetti to the warm pan. updating the list every time you add
• 4 frozen free-range pork sausages, 3 Meanwhile, put the defrosted spinach in or remove something.
defrosted a blender with the remaining oil and add 3 Leave space in plastic containers
• 50ml olive oil the rest of the pesto ingredients, reserving because food expands when frozen.
• 400g dried spaghetti a few basil leaves to serve. Season well 4 When freezing things such as
with salt and pepper and whizz to a paste, meatballs, open-freeze on a baking
FOR THE PESTO adding a little reserved pasta water to tray first, then decant into food bags
• 100g frozen spinach, defrosted, excess loosen if necessary. Toss the pesto through (so they don’t stick together).
water squeezed out the spaghetti and top with the sausage, 5 If you have leftover wine, freeze in
• 40g parmesan, freshly grated, plus remaining basil and extra parmesan. ice cube trays, then store in freezer
extra to serve PER SERVING 649kcals, 27.8g fat bags, ready to add to sauces.
• 20g walnut halves, lightly toasted in (7.8g saturated), 24.7g protein, 74.2g carbs
a dry frying pan (3.3g sugars), 1.2g salt, 6.1g fibre
• ½ garlic clove, crushed or grated
• 4 anchovy fillets in olive oil, drained
• 25g bunch fresh basil

1 Remove the skins from the sausages

and fry the sausagemeat in a pan with

+ STAR +

eat well for life.


Jazz up a thrifty pack of chicken drumsticks with a tangy storecupboard marinade

Honey and mustard drizzle a little extra honey over Scatter with the parsley leaves and
baked chicken and rice the chicken and return to the oven. serve with extra lemon wedges for
SERVES 4. HANDS-ON TIME 15 MIN, Increase the oven temperature to squeezing over, if you like.
OVEN TIME 40-50 MIN 220°C/200°C fan/gas 7 and bake PER SERVING 697kcals, 21.9g fat
for 10-20 minutes more until the (4.7g saturated), 51.9g protein,
Marinate the chicken up to chicken is golden and cooked 70.8g carbs (10.5g sugars),
AHEAD 24 hours in advance, cover through and the rice is tender. 1.6g salt, 4.2g fibre
and keep in the fridge until
ready to cook.
If you have any leftover
TEAM’S vegetables to use up from
the fridge, just add with the FEED 4
rice and chicken in step 2. FOR LESS
• 2½ tbsp clear honey, plus extra £5.50
to drizzle
• 2½ tbsp wholegrain mustard
• Zest and juice 1 lemon, plus
wedges for squeezing (optional)
• 3 tbsp olive oil
• 8 free-range, skin-on chicken
drumsticks (about 1kg)
• 300g basmati rice
• 2 leeks, sliced
• 500ml hot chicken stock (made
with a stock cube)
• Handful fresh parsley, leaves

1 Heat the oven to 200°C/180°C fan/


gas 6. Mix the honey, mustard,

lemon zest and juice and the oil in
a large mixing bowl, then season
with salt and pepper. Add the
chicken drumsticks and mix
thoroughly to coat in the marinade
(see Make Ahead).
2 Spread the rice in an even layer
over the base of a large shallow
roasting tin. Arrange the leeks
evenly over the rice and sit the
chicken drumsticks on top (see tip).
3 Pour some of the hot stock into the
mixing bowl, stirring it into any
remaining marinade, then pour into
the tin around the chicken along
with the remaining stock. Shake the
tin a little to help the rice and stock
combine evenly. Cover loosely with
foil and bake for 30 minutes.
4 After 30 minutes, remove the foil, 87
eat well for life.


FOR ONE Don’t be tempted to reach for the ready-meal
this spicy, wholesome bowlful is ready in no time

20 Crispy tortilla rice bowl • ½ tsp smoked paprika a bowl, then season with salt and
SERVES 1. HANDS-ON TIME 20 MIN • 3 tbsp soured cream pepper. In a separate small bowl,
MINUTES • 140g pouch Tilda Pulses and Rice stir the lime zest and paprika into
Substitute any same-size (black bean, jerk and coconut – the soured cream.
ready-cooked rice or grain see tip) 3 Empty the pouch of pulses into a
TIP pouch for the Tilda one. • ½ ripe avocado, sliced serving bowl and mix in half the salsa
and half the tortilla strips. Top with
• 1 tbsp rapeseed oil 1 Heat the oil in a large frying pan the sliced avocado and the rest of
• 1 corn tortilla over a medium heat. Cut the tortilla the salsa and tortilla strips, then
• 50g roasted red peppers in half, then into strips about 1cm drizzle over the spiced soured
from a jar, chopped wide. Fry in the pan, turning once, for cream and scatter with the
• 50g tinned sweetcorn 3-4 minutes until golden and crisp. remaining coriander.
• ½ red onion, finely chopped Set aside on kitchen paper to drain. PER SERVING 722kcals, 43.6g fat
• Small bunch fresh coriander, 2 Make a salsa by mixing the red (12.4g saturated), 14.1g protein,
chopped peppers, sweetcorn, onion, most of 61.1g carbs (13.6g sugars), 1.1g salt,
• Grated zest 1 lime and juice ½ lime the coriander and the lime juice in 14.9g fibre


eat well for life.


Feel nourished on a fasting or lighter-eating day with this cheering bowlful

Prawn, vegetable and 15 minutes until the quinoa is tender.

quinoa broth 3 Stir in the prawns, spinach, ON NON-FASTING DAYS...
SERVES 2. HANDS-ON TIME 30 MIN lemon zest and juice and most of By nutritionist Amanda Ursell
the parsley. Simmer for 2-3 minutes Add a handful of small chunks
This makes enough for more until the prawns are cooked of butternut squash with the
MAKE onion and increase the amount
AHEAD 2 fasting days. The second through and opaque. Taste, season of quinoa to 80g, then serve with
portion will keep for up with salt and pepper, then serve a slice of crusty bread. This will
to 3 days, covered in the fridge. straightaway, sprinkled with the lift the calories to around 500
For the second portion, remaining parsley. per serving.
FOOD Amanda is the nutrition editor of
TEAM’S liven things up by stirring PER SERVING 248kcals, 11.9g fat (3g our sister magazine Healthy
through finely chopped red saturated), 18.8g protein, 15g carbs Food Guide
chilli, a handful of fresh coriander (13g sugars), 0.5g salt, 6g fibre
and a splash of fish sauce.

• 1 tsp rapeseed oil for frying

• 100g onion, finely chopped
• 2 garlic cloves, crushed
• 35g quinoa
• 80g carrots, finely diced
• 1 litre fresh chicken or
vegetable stock
• 150g sustainable raw
shelled prawns
• 100g baby leaf spinach
• Grated zest and juice 1 lemon
• Bunch fresh flatleaf parsley,
roughly chopped

1 Heat the oil in a large saucepan

and gently fry the onion for
5 minutes until starting to
soften. Add the garlic, quinoa
and carrots, then gently fry for
5 minutes more, stirring.
2 Pour in the stock, turn up the
heat and bring to the boil, then
reduce the heat and simmer for

RECIPE Make a big pot of this satisfying dhal and enjoy half now,
then freeze the rest ready to make a veggie curry later

The master recipe…

Lentil and kidney bean • 500g red lentils 2 Add the lentils, give everything
dhal with fried lamb chops • 400ml tin reduced-fat a stir, then pour in the coconut
SERVES 4 (DHAL SERVES 8). HANDS-ON TIME coconut milk milk, chopped tomatoes and
30 MIN, SIMMERING TIME 20 MIN • 2 x 400g tins chopped tomatoes 1 litre cold water. Stir again.
• 400g tin kidney beans, drained 3 Bring up to a simmer and cook
Make the dhal up to 3 days • 4 x British lamb chops for 20 minutes, stirring occasionally.
MAKE in advance. Keep in a sealed • Fresh coriander leaves and lime When the lentils are almost tender,
container in the fridge or wedges to serve stir in the kidney beans and season
freeze (see box, below). with salt and pepper to taste. Spoon
1 Heat a glug of oil in a large half the dhal into a freezerproof
• Olive oil heavy-based saucepan and fry the container and leave to cool before
• 3 leeks, finely sliced leeks for 10 minutes until softening freezing (see How to Freeze, below).
• 3 garlic cloves, crushed and starting to caramelise. Add the Leave the rest in the pan on a very
• 1 red chilli, finely chopped garlic, chilli and garam masala and low heat while you cook the lamb.
• 1 tbsp garam masala cook gently for 2-3 more minutes. 4 Heat a non-stick frying pan until
smoking hot, season and lightly oil
the chops, then fry for 5 minutes,
turning once, until the chops are
MAKE crisp on the outside and the centres
DOUBLE AND are still rare. (For medium lamb
chops, turn down the heat slightly
FREEZE and cook for a further 2-3 minutes

on each side, depending on the
thickness of the lamb.)
5 Divide the dhal in the pan among
4 dishes, then top each with a hot
lamb chop. Scatter with coriander
leaves and serve with lime wedges
for squeezing over.
PER SERVING 583kcals, 20.3g fat
(9g saturated), 50.2g protein,
45.3g carbs (7g sugars), 0.3g salt,
9.4g fibre

Cool the reserved batch of dhal
and freeze in a food bag or
freezerproof container,
labelled with the date, for up to
3 months. Defrost in the fridge,
then reheat to serve as in the
recipe or use to make our
spinach version, right.

eat well for life.

Use the remaining dhal to make…

Spinach dhal with 1 Heat the oven to 200°C/180°C for 5 minutes until wilted.
roasted cauliflower fan/gas 6. Put the cauliflower and 4 Check that the roast vegetables
and squash squash on a roasting tray, drizzle are tender, then stir them through
SERVES 4. HANDS-ON TIME 15 MIN, with oil and season with salt and the dhal (if they’re not quite ready,
OVEN TIME 30 MIN pepper. Roast for 30 minutes until roast for another 5 minutes and
caramelised and golden. keep the dhal warm). Serve each
• 1 cauliflower, sliced into florets 2 Meanwhile, in a dry frying pan, portion topped with a generous
• ½ butternut squash, chopped heat the caraway/cumin seeds dollop of the yogurt, drizzled with
into 2cm chunks over a medium heat for a minute some of the caraway/cumin oil and
• 3 tbsp olive oil, plus extra for or so until fragrant, then add the sprinkled with parsley. Serve extra
drizzling 3 tbsp oil and turn off the heat. yogurt, drizzled with more of the
• 1 tbsp caraway or cumin seeds 3 For the last 10 minutes of the spiced oil, on the side if you like.
• 150g baby leaf spinach vegetable roasting time, warm the PER SERVING 556kcals, 18.5g fat
• 2-3 tbsp full-fat greek yogurt dhal in a pan until steaming, (5g saturated), 26.6g protein,
• Handful fresh flatleaf parsley, adding a little water to loosen. Stir 61.9g carbs (17.2g sugars), 0.2 salt,
roughly chopped in the spinach and simmer gently 17.3g fibre

Keep this versatile ingredient in your NEW
fridge to create exciting weekday meals TRAYBAKE
Orange and tarragon chicken traybake

Heat the oven to 190°C/170°C fan/gas 5. Mix a 180g pack of

full-fat cream cheese in a bowl with 2 tbsp chopped fresh
tarragon, the zest of ½ orange and a pinch of salt. Slice
4 free-range chicken breasts lengthways horizontally (don’t go
all the way through), then open out like a book. Divide the cream
cheese mix among the breasts, then fold over to seal. Take 4 slices
of parma ham and wrap one around each stuffed breast.
Toss 300g baby carrots and 200g baby leeks with the juice of
1 orange, 1 tbsp sherry vinegar, 1 tbsp honey, 1 tbsp wholegrain
mustard and seasoning in a roasting tray. Put the chicken on top,
brush with a little olive oil and roast for 30 minutes until the
chicken is cooked through. Serve with new potatoes, if you like.
PER SERVING 356kcals, 13.7g fat (7.6g saturated), 43.2g protein,
12.9g carbs (11.8g sugars), 1.3g salt, 4.2g fibre
Dip and salad sharing platter

Keep the dip in an airtight container in the

MAKE fridge for 1-2 days. The pitta chips will keep for

EASTERN 2 days in an airtight container.
FLAVOURS Replace the rose harissa with Belazu Verbena
TEAM’S Harissa or Belazu Zhoug Spice Paste (from the
world food aisle of large supermarkets).

Heat the oven to 220°C/200°C fan/gas 7. Toss 300g

tenderstem broccoli on a baking tray with 1 tbsp olive
oil and 1 tsp sumac. Split 2 pitta breads in half, then cut
into triangles. Spread over a second baking tray, drizzle
with 1 tbsp olive oil and sprinkle with another 1 tsp
sumac. Put the broccoli in the top of the oven and
the pittas below, then roast for 8-10 minutes, turning
everything halfway through, until the broccoli is tender.
Meanwhile, in a bowl, stir 1 tsp rose harissa and
1 tbsp each chopped fresh mint and parsley into a 180g
pack of full-fat cream cheese to get a rippled effect.
Spoon the dip onto a serving board/platter and arrange
the pitta chips, roasted broccoli and 200g sliced radishes
on top. Drizzle with extra-virgin olive oil and sprinkle
with more sumac, chopped fresh mint and parsley.
PER SERVING 315kcals, 19.1g fat (7.9g saturated), 9.8g
protein, 23.7g carbs (5.2g sugars), 0.7g salt, 4.8g fibre
eat well for life.

Creamy chorizo spaghetti with poached eggs UPDATED


In this take on a classic carbonara you can replace the chorizo

TEAM’S with cubed pancetta or, if you like a spicy kick, drizzle over a
little chilli oil just before serving.

Bring 2 large pans of water to the boil. Cook 360g wholewheat

spaghetti in one pan of boiling water until just al dente (2 minutes less
than the pack cooking instructions), then drain, reserving 200ml of the
cooking water. Fry 120g diced chorizo in a frying pan until crisp, then
stir in a 180g pack of full-fat cream cheese, the cooked spaghetti and
reserved cooking water with a generous grind of black pepper. Toss
everything together over a medium heat until glossy (2-3 minutes).
Stir in a handful of chopped fresh parsley, some salt and black pepper.
Meanwhile, reduce the second pan of water to a simmer, swirl it
with a spoon and poach 4 medium free-range eggs for 3-4 minutes
until the whites are set and the yolks are still runny. Dry on kitchen
paper. Divide the spaghetti among 4 warmed serving bowls and top
each with a poached egg, black pepper and a little extra parsley.
PER SERVING 629kcals, 27.1g fat (12g saturated), 29.6g protein,
61.1g carbs (5.5g sugars), 1.9g salt, 11.2g fibre

T O B U Y...
SMART We tested these
recipes using a 180g
SUPPER tub Philadelphia
Original Full Fat
Cream Cheese

Hot-smoked salmon and asparagus tart


The tart can be made a few hours ahead and

AHEAD served at room temperature or gently warmed
in a low oven for 10 minutes to serve.

Heat the oven to 200°C/180°C fan/gas 6. Unroll

a 320g sheet of ready-rolled all-butter puff pastry
on its paper and put on a baking tray. Spoon a 180g pack
of full-fat cream cheese into a mixing bowl, stir a little
to soften, then gently stir in 4 tbsp good quality fresh
pesto and a pinch of sea salt flakes until well marbled.
Brush 100g fine asparagus spears with a little olive oil.
Using the tip of a small sharp knife, score a border
1.5cm from the edge of the pastry. Spread the cream
cheese mixture inside the border. Top with the
asparagus, 100g peas (defrosted if frozen) and bake on
the middle shelf of the oven for 20 minutes until the
edges of the tart are golden brown and puffed up.
Remove from the oven and flake over 150g
hot-smoked salmon, then return to the oven to bake for
a further 5 minutes. Top with a handful of watercress
and drizzle over a little extra pesto to serve.
PER SERVING 602kcals, 43.4g fat (18.9g saturated), 18.8g
protein, 32g carbs (3.9g sugars), 2.1g salt, 4.2g fibre 93

Do artificial
sweeteners cause
weight gain?
It’s the holy grail of the food industry: a low-calorie, safe alternative to sugar that tastes
just as good. With mounting concerns that sugar is fuelling the global obesity epidemic,
the range of alternative sweeteners is growing. But, asks Sue Quinn, are sugar
substitutes all sweetness and light – or do they come with a bitter aftertaste?

ugar substitutes have been around sweeteners are calorie-free and often carbohydrates, so they’re low-calorie but
for almost 140 years – saccharin found in food and drinks labelled ‘diet’, not calorie-free. Common forms include
was first produced in 1879 and ‘calorie-free’ or ‘no sugar’. The most fructose and others ending in ‘ol’ such as
used during World War II when the white common ones in the UK include sorbitol and xylitol. Natural sweeteners
stuff was in short supply. These days, we acesulfame K, aspartame, saccharin and include calorie-free stevia, extracted from
consume vast quantities of sweeteners. sucralose (see box, right). Nutritive the Stevia rebaudiana plant, as well as
According to market research analysts sweeteners contain energy in the form of honey, agave, coconut sugar, molasses,
Euromonitor, more than 2 million tonnes brown rice syrup and maple syrup.
of ‘high intensity sweeteners’, as they’re
sometimes known, were consumed in food ARE THEY SAFE?
and drink products in the UK in 2016. The Over the decades there have been many
European Food Information Council says safety scares about alternative sweeteners.
sales of low-calorie soft drinks have Some early animal studies, later disproved,
increased 15-fold over the past 30 years suggested links to cancer. More recent
and have become best sellers. independent animal studies have suggested
they might cause health issues, including
WHAT ARE SWEETENERS? neurological and liver problems.
Alternative sweeteners are low-calorie Detractors say some sweeteners haven’t
or calorie-free sugar replacements used been studied adequately and that studies
to sweeten food and drink. They’re also declaring them safe weren’t impartial
available as ‘table-top sweeteners’ to stir because they were sponsored by the
into tea and coffee or sprinkle over cereal. companies that manufacture them.

Sweeteners are anything from 200 to However, all modern sweeteners have
650 times sweeter than sugar and contain to undergo rigorous safety checks and be
almost no calories (between 0-4kcal/g). approved by the European Food Safety
Because they’re intensely sweet, only tiny Authority. And both Cancer Research
amounts are needed, so they can satisfy a UK and the US National Cancer Institute
sweet tooth without racking up the calories. have said sweeteners don’t cause cancer.
There are different kinds of sweetener: “Large studies looking at people have now
artificial, ‘non-nutritive’ or intense provided strong evidence that artificial

your health.

High regular consumption of artificial sweeteners

could cause spikes in blood sugar levels and increase TRUE OR FALSE?
insulin resistance which, in turn, could increase the Oicial heath policy states
that alternative sweeteners
risk of developing type 2 diabetes can help weight loss
sweeteners are safe for humans,” states …AND SOME CONCERNS The long-term effects of
Cancer Research UK. Some studies suggest that consuming consuming large quantities
But even if sweeteners are safe, the artificial sweeteners over the long term is of sweeteners are unknown.
question remains: are they healthy likely to make people gain weight. An T TRUE T FALSE
options? There’s conflicting evidence. investigation published in the Canadian
Evidence suggests long-
Emerging research indicates that, rather Medical Association Journal underwent a
term consumption of large
than helping with weight loss, long-term review of 37 studies involving more than
quantities of sweeteners
consumption might actually have the 400,000 people. It found a link between might increase the risk of
opposite effect and cause weight gain. regular consumption of sweeteners and type 2 diabetes, obesity
weight gain, obesity, high blood pressure, and cardiovascular disease
THE BENEFITS diabetes, heart disease and other problems. T TRUE T FALSE
The European Food Safety Authority has “Given the increasing use of non-nutritive
approved claims by manufacturers that sweeteners, caution is warranted until the Some medical experts
sweeteners help prevent tooth decay, risks and benefits of these products are suggest drinks containing
control blood sugar levels and reduce calorie fully characterised,” the study concluded. sweeteners are unsuitable
intake. An enquiry into carbohydrates and It’s unclear why sweeteners might for children
health by the Government’s Scientific trigger weight gain. It could be the body T TRUE T FALSE
Advisory Committee on Nutrition (SACN) becomes confused when it consumes According to a theory,
in 2015 also concluded they were safe. something sweet that has no calories, sweeteners might trigger
“Replacing sugar with sweeteners in our triggering hunger. Another theory is that sugar cravings
foods and drinks can reduce the number sweeteners fuel sugar cravings, or alter T TRUE T FALSE
of calories consumed, helping us to our gut bacteria in a way that impairs our
achieve and maintain a healthy weight,” ability to control blood sugar levels.
says Professor Louis Levy, head of nutrition In theory at least, sweeteners don’t raise for the Study of Diabetes last year found
science at Public Health England. “Our blood sugar levels the way sugar does, so that sweeteners can interfere with the way
latest evidence review suggests sweeteners are considered safe for diabetics. However, the body processes glucose. The University
are safe and have a role in tackling obesity.” a study given to the European Association of Adelaide’s Dr Richard Young, who led
the study, says: “High regular consumption
of artificial sweeteners may be a path to
poorer blood sugar control in humans.”
THE 7 MOST COMMON ALTERNATIVE This could cause spikes in blood sugar and
SWEETENERS USED IN THE UK increase insulin resistance, which is when
the body fails to keep blood glucose levels
• Acesulfame K Up to 300-400 times sweeter • Sucralose Calorie-free under control. “This, in turn, could increase
200 times sweeter than than sugar. Can have a and up to 650 times the risk of developing type 2 diabetes,
sugar and calorie-free, bitter aftertaste. sweeter than sugar. obesity and cardiovascular diseases,” Dr
often blended with • Sorbitol Extracted Valued for having no Young says. Research is set to continue.
sucralose and used to from glucose, resembles bitter aftertaste; often Harvard School of Public Health advises
decrease the bitter sugar with 60 per cent of combined with other low-calorie drinks are best consumed in
aftertaste of aspartame. its sweetness and 30 per low-calorie sweeteners small amounts over a short period of time.
• Aspartame 200 times cent fewer calories. Can to dilute its sweetness. And because the long-term effects of these
sweeter than sugar and have a laxative effect if • Xylitol Low-calorie sweetened drinks ‘are unknown’, the
low calorie. The most you have a lot of it. sweetener obtained from advice is for children to avoid them.
controversial sweetener, • Stevia 200-300 a variety of plants. Xylitol
once linked to cancer, times sweeter than is a polyol, a kind of THE BOTTOM LINE
a theory later disproved. sugar, extracted from carbohydrate. Polyols Alternative sweeteners are widely
• Saccharin The oldest the leaves of a plant are banned from soft regarded as safe, but emerging evidence
artificial sweetener. native to Central and drinks in the EU because suggests that consuming large quantities
Calorie-free and South America. of their laxative effect. over the long-term may have health
implications including weight gain.


A low-carb diet shouldn’t mean a no-carb diet, says Annie Bell. You just need to tweak
things to achieve a better balance – and these glorious meat-free recipes do that in style

Roast asparagus
and red onion
with farro


eat well for life.

My approach to eating well, without

having too many carbs, is to bump up
protein, to include fats and to avoid
processed foods and added sugars.
A key trend of the low-carb diet is to
replace refined grains such as pasta,
white bread and rice with non-starchy
carbs such as green veg, aubergines,
mushrooms and celeriac, and there is
a lot to recommend it. Eating this way
is about as good as it gets. ANNIE BELL

Watercress and 30-60 seconds until nice and

pistachio soup buttery, stirring constantly. Add the
SERVES 6. HANDS-ON TIME 10 MIN, watercress and stir until it wilts. Add
COOKING TIME 15 MIN the celeriac and cook for a minute
longer, stirring occasionally, then
Pistachios give this soup a pour in the boiling stock and add
soothing homespun texture, some seasoning. Simmer for
thick and faintly mealy. Their 6 minutes, then whizz it, in batches, A soup with added
scent after a quick spell in hot in a blender until smooth (see tips). pistachio power
butter works a treat with the 2 Gently reheat if necessary and
watercress, while the serve in warm bowls with a thread
pomegranate challenges its (1 tsp) of pomegranate molasses
slight bitterness. It’s a soup that and a few extra pistachios.
suggests that all is well with the PER SERVING 185 kcals, 12.3g fat
world. You might like to crumble (5.1g saturated), 4.2g protein,
a little goat’s cheese over the 11.2g carbs (9.9g sugars), 1.4g salt,
soup for added pleasure. 3.4g fibre.

Make the soup up to 48 Roast asparagus and red

MAKE hours in advance and keep
AHEAD onion with farro • 350-400g fine asparagus, halved
in a sealed container in the SERVES 4. HANDS-ON TIME 30 MIN, lengthways ANNIE BELL
fridge. Or freeze for up to 1 month. OVEN TIME 25 MIN • 2 red onions, halved and thinly trained as
You could also use a stick sliced into half moons a chef before
FOOD changing
TEAM’S blender or a food processor. This accommodating little • 50g farro
career to
Remember when whizzing dish is ideal for when you’re not • 1 tbsp small capers, rinsed food writer
hot liquid in a blender to remove the completely sure about when you • Handful coarsely chopped – and has
cap and cover with a folded tea towel. might sit down to eat: served hot, flatleaf parsley since upped
her health
ambient or cool it will still be • Chia seeds to scatter (optional) credentials,
• 1.1 litres vegetable stock (if you’re great. And, should you be feeling • Lemon wedges to serve completing
not cooking for vegetarians you particularly hungry, it welcomes an MSc in
can use chicken stock) a lightly poached egg or some 1 Heat the oven to 210°C/190°C fan/
• 50g unsalted butter griddled and sliced chicken. gas 6½. Combine the lemon juice She’s written
• 50g pistachio kernels, coarsely Most farro sold today is quick- and garlic with 2 tbsp of the olive oil numerous
chopped, plus a few extra to serve cook and takes less than 15 in a large bowl. Add the asparagus cookbooks,
of which
• 250g watercress minutes – a boon for a grain. and toss to coat, then season well Low-Carb
• 300g celeriac, peeled, cut into and spread over the base of a large Express is

5-7cm chunks and finely sliced Leftovers will keep in roasting tin. her most
• 2 tbsp pomegranate molasses MAKE recent.
AHEAD the fridge for 2-3 days, 2 Spread the onion over a baking
covered. sheet, separating out the slices,
1 Bring the stock to the boil in a drizzle over the remaining oil and
small saucepan. Melt the butter • 1 tbsp lemon juice toss to coat. Roast the asparagus for
in a large saucepan over a medium • 1 garlic clove, crushed to a paste about 20 minutes until lightly golden
heat, add the nuts and fry for • 3 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil and, at the same time, roast the → 97
Find yellow /golden ground
TEAM’S linseeds and soya flour in
larger health food shops or
online at or

• 50g ground yellow linseeds (or

grind them – see Annie’s tip)
• 50g ground almonds
• Pinch Maldon sea salt
• 1 heaped tbsp soya flour (see tip)
• 1 rounded tsp baking powder
• 2 medium free-range eggs

1 Heat the oven to 240°C/220°C fan/

gas 9 with a large (at least 20cm
wide) baking sheet inside.
2 Combine the ground linseeds,
almonds and salt in a large bowl. Sift
over and mix in the soya flour and
baking powder. Whisk the eggs with
75ml cold water in a medium bowl
until well blended, add to the dry
ingredients and stir to blend. Leave
the mixture to stand for 5 minutes,
Red pepper, feta during which time it will thicken up.
and olive fake-accia 3 Without stirring, tip the dough onto
a large sheet of non-stick baking
paper, lay cling film over and use
your fingers to gently spread the
dough into a 20cm circle about 1cm
onion for 25 minutes, stirring halfway one of these centrally on the thick. Tidy the edge with your fingers,
through to caramelise it evenly. table, by the end, sliver after then peel off the cling film. Bake for
3 Meanwhile, bring a medium pan of sliver will have been carved of 20-22 minutes until golden or use in
salted water to the boil and cook the and there’ll be little or nothing the topped recipe below.
farro for 15 minutes or until just left. With a blend of linseeds and PER SERVING 172kcals, 14.7g fat
tender. Drain into a sieve. almonds, it also packs a punch (1.8g saturated), 6.6g protein,
OFFER 4 Stir the farro and the onion into the nutritionally, broadening out the 1.2g carbs (0.6g sugars), 0.4g salt,
These recipes are asparagus, then mix in the capers range of fibre you’ll be getting. 2.2g fibre
from Low Carb and taste for seasoning. Transfer to Just don’t call it a focaccia or
Express by Annie a platter and eat hot or at room a pizza – this is delicious in its Red pepper, feta and olive
Bell (£16.99; Kyle


Books, out on temperature. Stir in the parsley to own right. And, like a pizza base,
5 April). To buy it serve and scatter with chia seeds, you can dress it up in endless SERVES 6. HANDS-ON TIME 15 MIN,
for the special if wished. Serve with lemon wedges. ways – see my next recipe. OVEN TIME 20-22 MIN
price of £11.90
PER SERVING 186kcals, 10.5g fat
including P&P,
please call (1.5g saturated), 5.6g protein, Flaxseeds and linseeds are With toasted cheese, roast
01903 828503 15.4g carbs (6.2g sugars), 0.2g salt, ANNIE’S the same thing. The yellow peppers, olives and tomatoes,
quoting the code 3.7g fibre ones used here are milder this is pizza-esque in its appeal.
Carb KB001*.
and sweeter than the brown (you It’s great for eating cold, too.
Fake-accia will probably need to grind your
MAKES 1 X 20CM BREAD. SERVES 6. own). I cannot praise these little • 1 unbaked fake-accia (see recipe,
HANDS-ON TIME 10 MIN, OVEN TIME seeds highly enough. They have a left)
20-22 MIN high fibre content (they contain both • 100g cherry tomatoes, halved
soluble and insoluble fibre) and • 100g roasted red peppers, cut
This is something like a nutty they’re one of the richest sources of into thin strips
soda bread, delicate and tender. the essential omega 3 alpha- • Small handful rocket
Come suppertime, I find if I put linolenic fatty acid. leaves

eat well for life.

• 1 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil, plus • 75g blueberries 3 Add half the remaining butter to the
extra (optional) • 25g ricotta or young goat’s cheese pan and swirl to melt, then tip in the
• 50g feta, coarsely crumbled • 1 tbsp dark rum egg mixture and cook for 3 minutes.
• 30g pitted black olives, halved • Ground cinnamon for dusting Just before the end of this time,
scatter the apple slices over the
1 Heat the oven to 240°C/220°C fan/ 1 Whizz the eggs, milk, stevia, the surface, along with the blueberries,
gas 9 with a with a large (at least saffron liquor and vanilla extract in and dot with the remaining butter
20cm wide) baking sheet inside. a blender until foamy, then add the and the ricotta or goat’s cheese.
Slide the fake-accia, still on the lemon zest and juice and whizz Place under the grill for 3-4 minutes
paper, onto the hot baking sheet and again. Heat the grill to medium. or until golden and puffy at the
bake for 10 minutes until golden. 2 Melt half the butter in a 24cm sides, then drizzle over the rum and
2 Meanwhile, toss the tomatoes, non-stick frying pan with a dust with cinnamon. The frittata is
peppers and rocket together in a heatproof handle over a medium best enjoyed after about 15 minutes
medium bowl. (I’m assuming you’re heat and fry the apple slices for a of standing, or freshly cooled.
using ready-roasted peppers in oil. few minutes until translucent and PER SERVING 128kcals, 7.5g fat NEXT
If you’ve roasted your own peppers, lightly coloured, turning the slices (3.5g saturated), 7.0g protein, MONTH
Celebrate spring
add a drizzle of oil to the mixture). and stirring frequently, then 6.0g carbs (5.3g sugars), 0.3g salt, with vibrant new
3 Scatter these over the part-baked transfer these to a bowl. 0.5g fibre veggie recipes
dough, then top with the feta and
olives and drizzle 1 tbsp oil over
everything, including the crust.
4 Bake for a further 10-12 minutes
until tinged with gold and toasty at
the edges. Leave to cool to room
temperature. Use a spatula to
loosen the fake-accia and slip it
onto a board before cutting.
PER SERVING 191kcals, 15.5g fat
(2.8g saturated), 8.3g protein,
2.4g carbs (1.7g sugars), 0.8g salt,
2.7g fibre

Apple and blueberry


This semi-sweet omelette has

something of a clafoutis about it.
The sweetness comes from just
a little stevia and the natural
sugars in the fruit, with spices
that we associate with baking
to evoke comfort.

• 4 medium free-range eggs

• 100ml skimmed milk
• 1½ tbsp granulated stevia
Apple and
(equivalent to 1½ tbsp sugar) blueberry frittata
• Small pinch saffron, ground and
mixed with 1 tsp boiling water
• 1 tsp vanilla extract
• Finely grated zest 1 lemon, plus
1 tbsp juice
• 20g unsalted butter
• 1 eating apple, peeled, cored and
thinly sliced lengthways 99
eat well for life.


NEW TAKE Our less calorific, fibre-packed

ON A CLASSIC version is simple to make and just

as comforting as the original
Lighter cottage pie (discard any fat) and set aside. the boil and heat the oven to 200°C/
SERVES 4. HANDS-ON TIME 30 MIN, 2 Heat the olive oil in the pan, 180°C fan/gas 6. Boil the cauliflower
OVEN TIME 25-30 MIN add the onion and gently fry for for 10 minutes until very tender.
5 minutes until starting to soften. Drain, return to the pan and add the
We used a lean (5% fat) beef Stir in the carrots and mushrooms drained beans. Use a potato masher
HOW WE mince and swapped the and cook for 2-3 minutes more. to mash the cauliflower and beans
usual mash for a cauliflower Return the drained mince to the pan coarsely, then season to taste.
and bean topping. The creaminess of and add the stock, chopped tomatoes 5 Transfer the mince mixture to the
the beans means there’s no need to and Worcestershire sauce. ovenproof dish and top with the
add extra butter to the mash. 3 Season with salt and pepper, cauliflower and bean mash (see
Make but don’t bake the pie cover with a lid and simmer for Make Ahead). Grate over the cheese,
MAKE and keep it covered in the 15 minutes, then uncover and then bake for 25-30 minutes until
fridge. Bring back to room simmer for 5 minutes more. golden and bubbling. Serve with
temperature, then bake as in the 4 Meanwhile, bring a pan of water to peas or other green veg.
recipe for an extra 10-15 minutes or
until golden and bubbling.
Freeze the unbaked pie (without
cheese) for up to 3 months, wrapped
in cling film. Bake from frozen for
45-50 minutes. Top with grated
cheese after 15 minutes.

• 400g lean (5% fat) British beef

• 1 tsp olive oil
• 1 onion, finely chopped
• 3 carrots, finely chopped
• 100g chestnut mushrooms, sliced
• 300ml beef stock
• 400g tin chopped tomatoes
• 2 tbsp Worcestershire sauce


• 1 cauliflower, roughly
• 400g tin butter beans,
drained and rinsed
• 40g lighter mature
661kcals 363kcals
26.7g fat 8.7g fat
• 1.5 litre ovenproof dish (14g saturated) (3.7g saturated)
40.8g protein 34.9g protein
1 Heat a large non-stick deep 53.6g carbs 30.4g carbs
(10.4g sugars) (17.8g sugars)
frying pan (with a lid), add the
2g salt 1.3g salt
beef mince and fry for 5-8 minutes
7.7g fibre 12.3g fibre
until browned. Drain the mince


A PRIL 2018

LOTTIE delicious.
Acting food
lifestyle editor Cookery tips and
tricks, including
three big-on-
flavour salad


Cookery HOW-TO p104
You can’t beat
a homemade
curd for citrussy
tang – our version
is simple to make
and store
Chef and food

Chef, writer,
and preserves Fah Sundravorakul shows how
& freezing to make chicken katsu curry
queen just like they do in Japan 101
While the delicious. team are testing recipes, they’re often debating the best ways to do things
as well as answering cooking questions that arise in the test kitchen. What do you do if you’ve over-
whipped your cream? Why do chefs whisk butter into risottos at the end? What’s a hassle-free way
to make hasselback potatoes? And what fish and seafood are in season at this time of year? It’s the
kind of information you won’t find anywhere else, and it will help take your cooking to the next level.

New potatoes are one of the first

joys of spring, sometimes

overlooked in favour of their more
pushy fellow spring vegetable,
Thinking about spring
lamb? Look beyond
asparagus. A freshly dug new
potato has a fine flavour that’s worth preserving
roast leg and slow-
cooked shoulder with our
FREEZE New potatoes don’t freeze brilliantly, as they guide to some lesser-used FORE HIND
can go watery or mealy. Really small, waxy specimens cuts. This month British lamb is
fare best as they have a lower water content. Cut likely to be from animals born in
them into olive-size chunks and boil for five minutes winter or year-old lamb – called
in salted water until just tender, then toss in butter hogget. Younger lamb is
and freeze in bags for up to 3 months. imported from New Zealand.
PRESERVE There are wonderful Indian potato pickles,
such as aloo achaar, but none that lasts more than a BARNSLEY CHOP A double-sided loin chop on the bone. Shaped like a droopy
few days in the fridge. For longer-term storage, try moustache, each side of the chop contains some under-fillet as well as loin.
drying them instead. Slice small waxy new potatoes How to cook it Best griddled, grilled or pan-fried.
1 2mm thick (a mandoline will help here).
1-2mm here) Boil in salted NECK FILLET A long, thin, boneless cut from the eye of meat that runs through
water for 3 minutes or until barely tender. Drain well, the neck. It has a bit of fat, so lends itself well to braising but it can also
then spread out on oven trays lined with be cut into cubes for kebabs or butterflied lengthways for a lamb steak.
non-stick baking paper. Dry at 60°C (or in How to cook it If trimmed and from a young animal, you can roast it: sear it
a warming drawer) for 5-10 hours until first, then give it 10 minutes at 200°C/180°C fan/gas 6. Rest before slicing.
the slices are crisp but not coloured. SCRAG END Inexpensive neck cut with lots of bone and connective tissue.
Pack into bags or jars and store How to cook it It can be braised whole with veg, herbs and wine, or cut into
somewhere cool and dry for up chops for hotpots. Not the prettiest of cuts but lots of flavour.
to 2 months. Eat as they BREAST A fatty cut (it’s like pork belly), breast is often boned, stuffed with
are, fry in oil for a breadcrumb filling and rolled before slow roasting. It also makes good
extra-crisp crisps broth and can be cut into ribs that turn crisp when fiercely roasted.
or soak in water How to cook it Try rubbing with punchy North African or Chinese spice
overnight and use blends. Or poach the meat, press it and chill, then coat in breadcrumbs
in soups, stews and fry it. Delicious with mayonnaise flavoured with capers or anchovy.
gratins and RUMP/CHUMP A cut taken from the pad of meat just before the rear legs.
Spanish- How to cook it It’s often cut into chops or sliced for steaks but it can also be
style cooked as a mini roast. Brown it well, then cook fo or 15-20 minutes
tortillas. at 220°C/200°C fan/gas 7 and rest well before sliccing.

COOK’S When chopping soft herbs such as

TIP basil and mint, lay 6-10 leaves one
on top of another to make a pile, then roll up
and slice with a sharp knife. This is called ‘ch
R ECIPE R ESCU E COOK’S Stirring butter
TIP into cooked
OVER-WHIPPED CREAM risotto at the end of the
When the consistency is right, whipped cream should cooking time is a
fall from the whisks in loose, cloud-like dollops. Whisk traditional final step
it too much and it starts to stiffen. If that happens, don’t known as ‘mantecare’.
try to stir in more cream or the mixture will get thicker.
Instead, stir in a splash of milk. The result will be less
Mixing in the butter adds
stable than pure whipped cream but will be fine for a richness that brings the
spooning onto a pudding. If the cream is so whipped that dish together to create
it looks like homemade butter, you may as well finish
the right consistency and

delicious. KITCHEN
the job. Wash off the buttermilk with cold water, then
mix in salt to taste and spread on hot muffins. mouthfeel. See our cover-
star risotto recipe on p22


GOOD LIFE “If you can eat or drink it,
you can smoke it…”
Smoking adds great or 30 minutes-plus for large fillets/whole
flavour to your food fish. Rinse and dry before smoking.
– and you don’t need For meat/poultry, mix equal amounts
to build a smokehouse of salt with light brown sugar (and any
in the back garden, herbs/spices you want: five-spice is
says Lucas Hollweg good for duck). Rub in and leave for
15-60 minutes, then rinse and dry.
Hot smoking involves smoking at a ESSENTIAL EQUIPMENT
temperature of 80-120°C so the food Hot smoking is easy enough to do
cooks as well as smokes. It’s usually safe yourself, but you can buy stovetop
to eat the food without further cooking; smokers (such as the Cameron from
smoked mackerel is hot smoked. and smoking bags woods give a mild, sweet result; oak
Cold smoking bathes the food in ‘cool’ (from The latter seal in gives a mellow smokiness. You can also
smoke (generally at below 30°C), so the the food next to a sachet of woodchips, smoke with hay or a mixture of rice and
food is flavoured by the smoke but stays which infuses it with flavour as it cooks. tea leaves, such as lapsang souchong.
raw and usually needs cooking. Smoked Put a few teaspoons of sawdust in the
salmon is an exception. It’s been cured Cold smoking requires more kit, such as pan, cover with foil and pierce a few holes
before smoking, so can be eaten as it is. an electric smoker. You can buy smoke in the top. Open the windows. Heat the
guns ( that infuse food pan until the sawdust starts to smoke.
WHAT CAN YOU SMOKE? with a hint of smoke in a few minutes. Put the rack on top, then the food. Cover
If you can eat or drink it, you can smoke the pan tightly with a lid/foil, then turn
it. Fish, meat, seafood, tofu, veg, butter, HOW TO MAKE A SIMPLE HOT SMOKER the heat to its lowest until the food is
cheese, milk, even water and cocktails… You’ll need an old oven tray; pan or wok smoked to your liking – it can take time
with a close-fitting lid; kitchen foil; a to get it right, but don’t leave the pan

WHAT ABOUT PREP? wire rack that fits inside the pan a few una
unattended. You can always finish
Meat and fish benefitt from quick curing centimetres off the bottom; sawdust. cookking meat/fish in
before hot-smoking to draw out some What kind of sawdust? Chemical-free a paan/oven. Let the sawdust cool before
moisture and add flavour. hardwoods. throowing it away.
For fish, sprinkle witth coarse Apple and Worrks best for quick-cooking fish fillets
salt on both sides and leave for fruit and scallops, or small cuts of poultry
5-10 minutes for sma all fillets suchh as duck or pigeon breasts. → 103
TECHNIQU E How to make lemon curd
Chilli sauce
Britain’s love of the
t hot stuff
has never been k keener. But
with a growing va ariety of chilli
sauces on offer, do
d you know
what to reach forr, when?

HOT CHILLI SAUCES A range of spicy

condiments that a are a storecupboard
essential for mosst chilli heads. Many
of the hottest ver sions are based on
Caribbean recipes, with a thick mix of
fiery chillies in a fruity, spicy, vinegar
base. The milder Thai sriracha sauce
has a moreish sweetness and often
a garlic backnote that’s as good stirred
into mayo as it is splashed over Asian
food. For bloody marys, oysters and
pepping up your welsh rarebit, Tabasco
is the best bet (the Louisiana company
now produces jalapeño and chipotle
versions, as well as the classic sauce).
Curd is a zingy alternative to jam. Spread
it on toast or use it in sponge cakes or
2 Whisk in 3 large free-range eggs
[B], then pour the mixture back into
the bowl and put back over the pan of
version, nam chim kai, is most widely
available, but variations are found
across Asia, sometimes with added
swirled into ice cream or yogurt hot water [C]. Stir for 10-12 minutes in ingredients such as ginger and sesame
Curd will keep chilled in a sealed, a figure-of-eight motion, scraping the seeds. Most are a mix of chilli, rice
MAKE sterilised jar for up to a month. bottom of the bowl so it doesn’t stick and vinegar, sugar (or fruit-based
Freeze in bags for up to 3 months. start to curdle. When it starts to thicken, sweetening), garlic and often soy or
Vary the flavour to suit your taste: turn down the heat slightly. It’s ready fish sauce. Use as a condiment and
NEXT try swapping 1 lemon for 2 limes when the curd drops off the spoon leaving dipping sauce or stir into marinades.
and add a teaspoon of rum or a little drip and a trail in the bowl [D].
70g grated fresh ginger.
3 Turn off the heat and, stirring
occasionally, let the curd cool for COOK’S
To make
1 Put the grated zest and juice of 2 large
lemons in a heatproof glass or
stainless steel bowl set over a pan of
3-4 minutes before stirring in 35g
unsalted butter [E]. Put cling film on the
surface of the curd so it doesn’t form
potatoes, sit each potato
barely simmering water (don’t let the a skin [F], then leave to cool to room
in turn in the bowl of a
bowl touch the water). Warm for 3-4 temperature. Decant into sterilised jars. wooden spoon, then use
minutes [A], then add 175g caster sugar Learn how to sterilise your jars at a sharp knife to cut slits in
and stir gently until dissolved. Strain into the tato. The ed of the
a heatproof jug (discard solids). how-to-sterilise-jars


Want to improve your kitchen skills?
Visit and
discover how to… Make cheat’s gnudi • Sh
oysters like a pro • Bake a hot cross bun l
• Roast potatoes from frozen – and more


By CJ Jackson, CEO of The Seafood School at USE UP
Billingsgate and Seafish UK ambassador LEFTOVER
April can be a tricky time for buying fish as
many species are producing roe, which can CARAMEL
leave them skinny and in poor condition. SAUCE
Farmed fish are a good option now, as is…
LAYER chocolate mousse in a

Female fish produce roe
(eggs) and males produce milt
which means it can be pricey.
Pollock has an olive green
back, silver belly and a fine
pot with caramel sauce. (Find a
chocolate mousse recipe at
SWIRL into a chocolate brownie batter.
(to fertilise the eggs). Herring puckered lateral line. Its flesh SPOON over ice cream, pancakes or waffles.

delicious. KITCHEN
milt (soft roe) and eggs (hard is similar in texture to coley – BROWN apple slices in a frying pan with butter, then add
roe) is a delicacy. In spring translucent with tightly knitted caramel sauce and simmer until soft. Serve with
some roe is available fresh: flakes, turning sweet and white cream or ice cream.
cod, coley, ling and haddock are when cooked. SPREAD over the bottom of a lined cake tin, add apples,
harvested commercially. Cold- Great ways to cook Steam with pears or other fruit and cover with victoria sponge
smoked cod roe is available ginger, spring onion, chilli and batter before baking as a caramel upside-down cake.
year round and is used to make soy sauce, or roast with lemon
taramasalata. Other roe from and serve with tartare sauce.
Pacific salmon (keta), trout,
capelin and lumpfish are sold
lightly salted in jars and add 3  SCALLOPS
King scallops are one of
colour and texture to dishes.
Caviar is the most exclusive
two scallop species that are
wild-harvested and farmed
roe. It once came from wild around the UK coastline. In the CREAM & TARRAGON Mix the juice of 1 lemon with
sturgeon caught in Iran and wild, they’re caught either by ½ tsp caster sugar. Whisk in 3 tbsp extra-virgin
Russia but it’s now mainly dredging (which has a high olive oil, then 4 tbsp double cream. Stir in 2 tbsp
farmed in Europe. Caviar is environmental impact) or each finely chopped shallots and chives and
pricey but it takes up to 20 years hand-diving, which is the some chopped fresh tarragon, then season.
for the fish to grow to maturity. preferable method. In the UK Great with… a simple lettuce salad
Arënkha (formerly Avruga) is you can buy scallops in or out ANCHOVY Mash 6 salted anchovy fillets with
a caviar substitute made from of the shell, fresh or frozen. 1 garlic clove. Whisk in 1 egg yolk, 1 tsp dijon
MSC-certified smoked herring. The guts are discarded, leaving mustard and some black pepper. Whisk in
Great ways to cook Fresh roe a sweet white muscle and the 200ml light olive oil, drop by drop at first, then in
can be wrapped in baking paper orange roe. Ask for dry scallops, a thin stream to make mayonnaise. Mix in 2 tbsp
and poached until firm. Slice it which haven’t been soaked in lemon juice plus the zest of ¼ lemon, a pinch of
when cold, coat in egg and water and are sweeter. chilli flakes and 25g grated parmesan. Thin with
breadcrumbs, then deep-fry – Great ways to cook Season water to pouring cream consistency.
fish and chip shops often sell it. and pan-fry the whole scallop. Great with… lettuce and croutons, bitter leaves or
Thirty seconds on each side in for dunking any vegetable.

Atlantic pollock (or lythe) is
sold as an alternative to cod
a hot pan should colour the
exterior and leave the middle
juicy and tender. The roe can be
GINGER & SOY Mix 1 crushed garlic clove and
2 tsp grated ginger. Stir in 1 tbsp clear honey and
25ml rice vinegar, then slowly whisk in 4 tbsp
(they’re closely related), but dehydrated in a very low oven, olive oil, 2 tbsp soy sauce and 1½ tbsp water.
availability is sporadic and only powdered and used to flavour Great with… salads and veg, both
sm ll quan
mall quantities are landed, fish
sh soups
so and risottos. raw and cooked – it’s particularly
good with cabbage.
festival fever.

It’s your chance to make a diference, and
nomination is quick and easy. Go online and
tell us about your favourite local food hero PERTH SHOW
for a chance to win a cooker worth £1,300

here’s still time to nominate your favourite food heroes in
the 2018 delicious. Produce Awards. Is there a baker, IRISH GAME FAIR
cheesemaker, farmer, winemaker or smokehouse you think 23-24 JUNE
deserves recognition? Share your knowledge and nominate them
right now: visit – it only
takes a couple of minutes to nominate and, as well as doing a good OF FOOD & DRINK
deed, you’ll be in with a chance to win a state-of-the-art cooker. 16-17 JUNE
Hurry, though: nominations close at the end of April. FOOD FESTIVAL
Of course, producers can enter themselves too. Do you grow, 31 AUG TO 2 SEP
rear or make a British product you’re proud of? Do your dedication
and skill make your product stand out? Are quality and LEAMINGTON FOOD
sustainability essential to your ethos? If so, enter & DRINK FESTIVAL
yourself into the awards at the web address above. 8-9 SEP
29-30 SEP
for entry on
The delicious. Produce Awards are ESSEX FOOD &
30 April 2018
dedicated to unearthing and celebrating the TASTE OF DRINK FESTIVAL
most exciting, innovative and talented small- THE SOUTH 14-15 JULY
21-22 JULY
scale artisan producers from the northernmost tip of
Shetland, right down to the Isles of Scilly. And, in between,
the awards scour every corner of the UK: Northern Ireland,
the Isle of Wight, the Channel Islands... In the past two years JOIN US ON THE ROAD - ARE WE IN YOUR AREA?
we’ve discovered and celebrated fantastic people and small Get the dates in your diary… delicious. is hitting the
businesses, giving them space in delicious. magazine and road this summer, touring the UK’s best food festivals
on our website to tell the world about what they do. to do the regional judging for the delicious. Produce
Awards. Cookery expert Valentina Harris will oversee
the fun – come along and watch, and meet Valentina,
WIN! Nominate a producer the judges and our friends in the Fisher & Paykel
Social Kitchen. It’s going to be a blast…
for the Produce Awards 2018
and you’ll have the chance
to win a Fisher & Paykel
freestanding 90cm dual fuel
stainless steel cooker with
two ovens (RRP £1,300). It
would be a beautiful addition
to your kitchen.




KATSU CURRY from Yamagoya
Katsu curry, a crunchy, breadcrumbed-and-fried fillet served with a special curry
sauce, is a favourite across Japan. It’s traditionally made with pork but can be made
with chicken breast too. Each family and restaurant has their own variation, some
adding fruit, extra spices and herbs to the sauce, depending on their taste. The sauce
is usually mildly spiced but at some restaurants you can select your spice level so it
can be extremely hot. Ultra-crisp Japanese panko breadcrumbs are key to the
recipe; the bigger the crumbs, the crisper and better the result.
Thai-born, London-
based restaurateur
Fah Sundravorakul
brought Japanese
restaurant Yamagoya to
its permanent home in
London’s The Cut in
2017. Like the original
restaurant, which was
founded in 1969 on
the island of Fukuoka
in Japan, the London
spin-off specialises
in various styles of
ramen, Japan’s
famed noodle
soup. Yamagoya
(which means
mountain hut)
also serves
other Japanese
fast food-
style dishes
gyoza and the
house special,
katsu curry.

Yamagoya chicken katsu • Vegetable oil for deep frying boiling water. After 5 minutes add
SERVES 4. HANDS-ON TIME 1 HOUR 20 MIN, • Sesame seeds to serve the onion and boil for 10 minutes
SIMMERING TIME 40 MIN, PLUS SOAKING more, constantly skimming the
FOR THE CURRY SAUCE water with a large metal spoon to
Make the curry sauce up to • ½ large carrot remove any scum.
MAKE 3 days head, then cover and • 100g potato 3 Remove the cooked veg with a
chill. Reheat to serve. • ½ medium onion slotted spoon (reserve the cooking
Japanese curry roux is the • 3 tbsp dark soy sauce (or to taste) water) and put in a blender or food
KNOW- secret to katsu curry. You • ½ tsp garam masala powder processor. Whizz to a fine purée [B].
can make it yourself but the • 40g Japanese curry roux (see 4 Mix the vegetable purée, soy sauce
ready-made blocks give an excellent Know-how) and garam masala into the pan of
result. Buy them from Asian food reserved vegetable cooking water
stores and online. We used S&B 1 Rinse the sushi rice in a sieve until combined. Cook over a medium
Japanese Golden Curry Sauce Mix under cold running water until the heat until the mixture comes to the
– Medium Hot, from Waitrose, Ocado water runs clear. Put the rice in boil [C], then reduce the heat to low
and a bowl, cover with cold water and and simmer for 10-15 minutes,
leave to soak for 20-30 minutes. stirring occasionally.
• 400g sushi rice 2 Meanwhile, for the sauce, bring 5 Turn off the heat and wait for
• 2 large free-range chicken breasts 450ml water to the boil. Chop the 5 minutes, then stir in the curry
• 40g cornflour carrot and potato into 1cm cubes roux [D] until it melts completely.
• 4 medium free-range eggs, beaten [A], then chop the onion. Add the You may need to add a splash of
• 2 x 150g packs panko breadcrumbs chopped carrot and potato to the water to loosen the sauce if it


thickens too much – it should be a breadcrumbs [H], pressing down
spoonable consistency. Keep warm firmly to make sure there’s FAH’S TIPS FOR KATSU
on a very low heat until needed. a good coating of crumbs sticking CURRY SUCCESS
6 Cook the rice according to the to the fillet.
packet instructions. Heat a deep, 9 Fry the breadcrumbed fillets → Use the largest panko
heavy-based frying pan with about in the hot oil, one at a time [I], for crumbs you can find. Larger
5cm oil until it reaches 180°C on a 4-5 minutes until golden and the breadcrumbs give a crisper
digital probe thermometer (or until chicken is cooked through [J]. texture to the chicken fillets
a cube of bread sizzles and browns Transfer to a board or tray lined when they’re deep-fried.
in about 30 seconds). with kitchen paper to drain, then → If you’d like to add some
7 Meanwhile, slice each chicken keep warm in a low oven. Once all sweetness to the dish, you
breast in half horizontally to make the chicken breasts are cooked, can add cubed apple when
2 thinner fillets [E]. Use a meat slice each one into thin strips. you’re boiling the potato and
tenderiser or the tip of a sharp knife 10 Divide the cooked rice among carrot (step 2). I tend to use
to tenderise the chicken [F] (see 4 plates and arrange the sliced green apple.
Fah’s tips, right). Season both sides chicken next to the rice. Spoon the → To tenderise meat, it’s
of the chicken with salt and pepper. katsu sauce over the chicken and useful to invest in a meat
8 Put the cornflour, eggs and sprinkle with sesame seeds to serve. tenderiser, but if you don’t
panko breadcrumbs in 3 separate PER SERVING 831kcals, 21.2g fat have one, use the tip of a NEXT
shallow bowls/containers [G]. First (2.4g saturated), 38.7g protein, sharp knife to pierce the
coat the chicken in cornflour, then in 120.4g carbs (6.6g sugars), 3.4g chicken breasts all over [F]. Nutella
beaten egg, then finally in the panko salt, 2g fibre doughnuts
In a grand setting, tutor
Kevin Hughes inspires at
Swinton Cookery School

WHERE Swinton Cookery
School, Yorkshire
THE COURSE Spanish Tapas
Temptations, £85 for one-day course,
including a light lunch prepared during
the class, plus tea and coffee
TESTER Rebecca Almond

WHAT IT’S LIKE It’s a rare occasion when cooking,” he says. A former chef-lecturer to-know-you chat and lots of laughter.
you get to cook a Spanish tapas feast in at Leeds City College, he joined Swinton Kevin demonstrated some of the dishes
an imposing British castle, but this was in January 2017 and is entirely at ease in (he prepped squid and clams to make
one such day. Driving into the Yorkshire his role as head cookery school tutor. calamari with aïoli, and clams with sherry
Dales National Park, the first glimpse of Kevin’s energy is infectious – if the and serrano ham); others we learned by
the 20,000-acre Swinton Estate is nothing welcome coffee hasn’t geed you up for the making them ourselves. A fellow course-
short of breathtaking. The long driveway day ahead, his introduction to the course goer and I blackened peppers on a gas
snakes past manicured lawns where deer surely will. He talked us through the menu hob while Kevin and another made
graze freely, and up to the turreted castle. and how we were to set about making the the marinade to transform them into
The cookery school is in the converted dishes. He also offered to teach us anything a wonderfully smoky tapas dish. With
stables. I fell instantly for the kitchen. else we liked (apparently ‘how to poach an concise, clear recipes and working under
There’s space aplenty, bright but not stark egg’ is a popular request), then deftly Kevin’s expert eye, I felt comfortable
lighting, and though the induction hobs popped some proved dough into the Aga taking a station by myself to cook chorizo
and granite worktops look professional, to bake, ready for the impending feast. in red wine (oh the aromas!) and a huge
the ambience feels more country kitchen. There were just three of us on the course Spanish tortilla made for sharing.
WHAT I LEARNED Tutor Kevin Hughes is an (there’s room for 12) and the day was an THE VERDICT The resulting spread of tapas
advocate of simple, delicious food. enjoyable mix of communal learning and could have fed a dozen or more: a true fiesta
“There’s no point in complicating hands-on experiences, with some getting- of food, and even though we were in a
sleepy corner of Yorkshire, the atmosphere
was equally lively. We all thrived off the
WHERE I STAYED teaching, the relaxed feel and – crucially
Swinton Park Hotel ( – the fun of the day, as well as the quality
The jewel of the Swinton Estate is the chef Mehdi Amiri’s stunning dishes in of dishes made by our own fair hands.
towering castle dating back to the 1800s. the hotel’s 3-AA-rosette restaurant, Kevin knows how to make learning about
Its 32 large rooms flaunt four-poster Samuel’s. Fancy something simpler? food more than just interesting – he makes
beds and huge modern bathrooms with Head to the bar for snacks, sandwiches it exciting. And that, in my book, is the
posh toiletries and plush dressing and classic brasserie-style grub. most important take-home skill of all.
gowns, not forgetting the complimentary Breakfast is a feast – arrive hungry. The school is part of the Independent
sloe gin. As for the food, we enjoyed head B&B from £195 per room Cookery Schools Association

in the know.

ME 2 Add the butter and sliced potatoes,
RECIPE then quickly mix all the ingredients.
Spanish-inspired Cover with the lid and cook for 15 minutes
potato omelette until the potatoes are tender, stirring
SERVES 4. HANDS-ON TIME 15 MIN , now and then to ensure even cooking.
HOB TIME 35-40 MIN 3 Once the potatoes are soft, stir in the
garlic and cook for a further minute.
Make the omelette up to 24 hours Beat the eggs in a jug and pour over
MAKE in advance, cool and keep in a the potatoes. Put the lid back on and
sealed container in tthe fridge. cook gently on a low-medium heat for
Serve cold or, to reheat, put on a baking 15-20 minutes. Turn the omelette out
tray and warm through in a low oven. onto a board, then flip back into the pan
to cook the other side until fully set (firm
• 1 onion, sliced to the touch) and golden brown all over.
• 4 tbsp rapeseed oil 4 Carefully turn out the omelette and
• 25g butter serve in slices, warm or cold, sprinkled
• 400g waxy potatoes, finelyy sliced with the chopped parsley.
• 2 garlic cloves, crushed PER SERVING 412kcals, 27.3g fat (7.1g
• 8 medium free-range eggss, beaten saturated), 18g protein, 21.9g carbs
• Handful fresh flatleaf parssley, (3.2g sugars), 0.6g salt, 3.2g fibre
roughly chopped WINE EDITOR’S CHOICE Open
a refreshing young Spanish
1 Put the onion and oil in a medium frying rosado or a modern
pan (with a lid) over a low-medium heat white such as
and cook for 6-8 minutes until starting a verdejo. →
to turn translucent and softe en.

Kevin Hughes’
expert advice
• If you don’t have a
pestle and mortar or a
garlic crusher, put a
peeled garlic clove on a
chopping board, chop
roughly, sprinkle with
salt, then use the angled
blade of a chef’s knife to
scrape it back and forth
in a wave motion,
pressing down as you do
so to grind the garlic to a
paste. The salt acts as
the grinding element.
• For a vibrant yellow
mayo, use rapeseed oil
instead of olive oil.
• If your homemade
mayo or hollandaise is
too thick, stir in
a drop of warm water.
Goat: Cooking and Eating
by James Whetlor
(£20; Quadrille)

I first heard James Whetlor on a radio

programme several years ago, speaking
passionately about the ethical arguments in
favour of eating British goat meat. Whetlor
is the founder of Cabrito, which takes kid
goats from a nearby Devon dairy farm and
raises them for meat. (Cabrito was
shortlisted for a delicious. Produce Award
– see p16 – in 2016.) As is the case with veal
calves, young male goats have no role to
play on a dairy farm, so they’re routinely
euthanised soon after birth, a practice
Whetlor finds ethically questionable.
The same clear-eyed passion comes
across in his new book. The introductory
chapters are engagingly written, well
argued and unexpectedly absorbing.
Goats, he explains, were the first livestock
animals to be domesticated,
and even though they’ve
never been an important
meat animal in Britain
(sheep are better suited to NEW KID ON THE BLOCK
the terrain) they played an Aromatic Turkish-
important part in our style goat pilaf
ancestors’ transformation
from hunter-gatherers to
farmers. The goat’s history peanut curry and a Turkish- Cabrito’s online shop (
mirrors human history. inspired kid, cabbage and The solution? “Consumers have the
The ethical argument bulgur wheat pilaf, but power to make changes through the
comes across loud and clear I was also tempted by purchasing decisions they make,” Whetlor
too: “On a fundamental level Jamaican curry goat, writes. Without a market, kid goats will
I do not think it is right that Mexican kid mole and more. continue to be considered worthless – so
we allow an animal’s life to have Both recipes I cooked were paragons of demand your goat!
absolutely no value,” he writes. The goal of concise precision (wordy recipes drive me PHOTOGRAPHY AND DESIGN The cover is striking,
Cabrito, he says, is “to end the waste of the spare) and worked perfectly – not always and Mike Lusmore’s food photography is
male kids in the British goat dairy system”. the case with chefs’ recipes. The curry was clean and appealing. A small annoyance:
It’s refreshing to read a cookbook with spicy, nutty and rich, the pilaf had a hint the book’s a bit small, and it kept slamming
such a well argued rationale. of sweetness and aromatic spices. itself shut when I was cooking from it.
QUALITY OF THE RECIPES Whetlor worked as a The only tricky bit was buying the goat WHO’S IT SUITABLE FOR? Readers with an ethical
chef for 12 years in London before returning meat. Even at Borough Market where the sense. If helping to fuel the market for
home to Devon and working at River world’s most exotic ingredients come out ethical meat isn’t enough, half the royalties
Cottage, and some of the recipes in the to play, I had a job tracking it down. And from book sales will go to the Farm Africa
book are from fellow chefs such as Mark that brings us to a fundamental problem. charity, which works to reduce poverty in

Hix and Gill Meller. Goat’s a popular meat A book of recipes based on a single hard- the Tigray region of Ethiopia. Want to be
around the globe and the recipes are to-find ingredient is likely to have a small part of the solution? Buy the book and/or
suitably diverse, divided up by cooking market; and given this book’s quality, that’s make the recipes (search ‘goat’ at
method: slow, quick, over fire, roast, baked a shame. You could substitute lamb and the for two of them)
– but no dessert recipes, which is probably recipes would (mostly) work just as well. and ask your butcher to stock goat meat.
a good thing. I opted for a West African And you can buy various cuts of goat at VERDICT ++++ +
in the know.


RECIPES FROM MY HOME Phaidon’s books are always AND SEAFOOD TO SHARE Baker, author and teacher
Author Skye McAlpine stunning and this one, written Authors Rick and Katie Vanessa Kimbell runs
is British by birth but by California-born Nancy Toogood own the combined sourdough-baking
has lived in Venice since Singleton Hachisu, is no fishmonger’s and seafood courses from her home in
childhood, absorbing exception: understated restaurants Prawn on the Northamptonshire and this
the city’s rich history photography and styling, Lawn in north London (see well researched and
and food culture. The plenty of history and context, p11) and Padstow in Cornwall. beautifully photographed
home-style recipes and and beautiful recipes for These recipes for tapas-style book is based on what she’s
photography are gorgeous, everything from soups dishes, with plenty of Asian taught her students. The clear
as is Skye’s writing. and stir-fries to one-pots and Euro influences, are step-by-step photography
A beautiful, evocative and noodles. This isn’t fuss-free and flavour-packed. makes keeping sourdough
book for armchair ‘Japan-lite’; it’s the real The book takes the fear factor starters alive and baking
travellers and food lovers. deal for Japanophiles. out of seafood cookery. great bread look easy.
£26, Bloomsbury £29.95, Phaidon, out 6 April £18.99, Pavilion Books £19.99, Kyle Books, out 5 April


We conduct our tests without
packaging, so our tasters
don’t know who produced
each product or how much it
costs. And to prevent one
tester influencing another, the
panel aren’t allowed to confer
during the tests, so the results
you read here are unbiased.

Greek yogurt contains only
milk and live/active cultures,
M&S Greek Waitrose 1 Greek Style Tims Dairy Aldi Brooklea Asda Greek Style
and has been strained of much
Yogurt, £2.20 Greek Natural Natural Yogurt, Greek Style Greek Style Natural Yogurt,
of the whey. Although it doesn’t for 450g Strained Yogurt, £1.80 for 450g Natural Yogurt, Natural Yogurt, 80p for 500g
have Protected Destination of Immense body £1.89 for 500g Acidic tang £1.85 for 500g 68p for 500g A fluid, smooth
Origin status, Greek yogurt and creaminess An exceptionally balanced by lush Tangy with a This yogurt yogurt with a
sold in the UK must have been without being creamy, dairy- creaminess and good flavour has a medium- moreish lactic
made in Greece. If made dense. Nice rich yogurt great flavour. and whipped thick texture flavour and
elsewhere it must be called tartness and that’s full of The smooth cream texture. with a fresh clean finish.
Greek-style yogurt (and may
an appealing flavour. This texture makes it It’s nicely rich almost citrussy A good choice
be thickened artificially). Good
strained yogurt should be
snowy-white is refreshing, a perfect match but contains flavour and for whizzing
thick, creamy and smooth with appearance with a subtle for granola and cream and milk well rounded into fruity
a characteristic sour tang. make it the sharpness. cereal. Major solids. Asda, aftertaste. smoothies. →
overall winner. supermarkets Ocado, Waitrose 113
in the know.

pasta maker and mincing IT CAN MIX IT

THE GADGE T attachment are available, but you WITH THE BEST
Solid kitchen
Bosch Optimum have to pay extra for them. workhorse
9GX5S21 £700, ANY DRAWBACKS? Carries a fairly that quietly
hefty price tag. The mixing tools gets on with
John Lewis
go into the motor head at an the job
TESTER Aggie MacKenzie
awkward angle, which takes a bit
of getting used to. I found it almost
WHY BOTHER? If you’re looking for impossible to take the liquidiser
a fully-specced but gimmick-free, apart for cleaning – it was a
grown-up, robust kitchen machine two-person job. Afterwards
that will fulfil all your food prep it was fiddly to reassemble.
needs, this should meet the mark. THE VERDICT? If you’re
WHAT’S GOOD ABOUT THIS ONE? It’s designed a serious cook and
for the serious cook. Built-in scales want to invest in
(though they only measure in a machine you’ll get
5g increments so there’s a margin a lot of use from, this
for error in precision baking) and is worth looking at.
built-in timer so you can preset the If you have a John
(quiet) motor. It comes with a solid Lewis near you, I’d
glass liquidiser and a huge stainless recommend asking
steel bowl (with cover) that takes up them for a
to 12 egg whites/1.5kg flour. There’s demonstration
a neat retracting cable too. Useful to get a feel for
accessories such as a citrus press, how it works.

WIN a knife set worth £576

ook any recipe from the magazine this month and
send us a picture for your chance to win a set of
three ZWILLING Diplôme kitchen knives,


plus a magnetic storage block. Made in Seki, Japan,
by one of the world’s oldest manufacturers of
top-quality kitchen products, the ZWILLING
Diplôme knife series has been developed together delicious.
with Le Cordon Bleu school of culinary arts.
The winner will receive the three knives essential
to every kitchen – and every good cook – pictured from top
Pure precision left: chef’s knife, Japanese-style santoku
uk if and
knife d paring
in your kitchen – knife, along with a magnetic bamboo block
keep them to hand
allowing you to store your new knives safely.
with this magnetic
bamboo knife block Manufactured using a special steel thaat’s
also used for razor blades, the range is
designed for ease of use, whether you’re left
or right handed.
Make any recipe from the April issue,
take a photograph and share it with us* FEBRRUARY’S
• Nikola Bakošová
TO ENTER & FOR Ts&Cs, GO TO winss a Michelin-
starrred break


Don’t let this month’s special ingredients linger in your kitchen.
Instead make the most of them with these smart and easy ideas

BROWN MISO for 10-15 minutes. Serve with rosemary and orange syrup’. anise and a cinnamon stick.
MISO SOUP steamed rice and green veg. When making the syrup, infuse Heat very gently over a low
SAPPORO- Bring 1 litre with a few strands of saffron heat for 30 minutes (don’t let
CORN MISO water to a low PECORINO instead of rosemary. the oil bubble). Cool, strain,
simmer in a SPRING LUNCH SAFFRON COCKTAILS then store in sterilised jars
medium pan. Mix ASPARAGUS, Sprinkle grated Make a saffron syrup: gently or bottles for up to 6 months.
50g brown miso with a splash MINT pecorino over heat 175ml water, 4 tbsp lime
of hot water, then add to the pan RISOTTO
griddled juice, 225g sugar, 5 crushed PALM SUGAR
with a bunch of chopped spring asparagus and cardamom pods and 5 saffron RICE PUDDING
onions, 150g seasonal green top with a poached egg. threads in a pan until the sugar THAI STYLE WITH COCONUT
vegetables and a couple of SHAVED RADISH SALAD has dissolved and the saffron TUNA AND
BROCCOLI Put 50g palm
nests of dried noodles. Simmer Finely slice 200g mixed radishes has infused. Strain, then stir in P49
sugar and 50g
for 5 minutes. Serve with sliced (such as watermelon radish, the grated zest of 1 lime. Add desiccated
red chilli and fresh coriander. mooli and breakfast radish). 2 tbsp of the syrup to vodka coconut over a low heat in
MISO VINAIGRETTE Toss with a drizzle of truffle and lemonade or gin and tonic. a saucepan until melted and
Whisk together 2 tbsp brown oil, a squeeze of lemon juice, Serve with lime wedges. starting to caramelise. Pour
miso, 1 tbsp rice vinegar, 1 tbsp chopped fresh parsley leaves over rice pudding and sprinkle
soy sauce, 1 tsp crushed palm and shavings of pecorino. SICHUAN PEPPER with lime zest to serve.

a pinch of chilli flakes and Visit TOFU WITH PEPPER AND Put 3 English breakfast teabags
2 tbsp toasted sesame oil. and search for ‘rarebit stuffed CARAMEL
AND SICHUAN GARLIC STEAKS in a teapot, pour over 1 litre
Use to dress Asian salads. gougères’. When making the P58
Pan-fry rump boiling water, then add a 5cm
MISO-BAKED SALMON choux pastry, replace the or sirloin steak, piece of sliced fresh ginger,
Heat the oven to 200°C/180°C parmesan with pecorino and basting in melted butter mixed 50g palm sugar and 5 bruised
fan/gas 6. Mix 2 tbsp brown top with extra grated pecorino. with crushed garlic. For the cardamom pods. Leave to infuse
miso, 1 tbsp honey, 1 tbsp last 2 minutes of cooking, for 5 minutes before drinking.
mirin, 1 tbsp soy sauce and SAFFRON add a few crushed sichuan GINGER FLAPJACKS
½ tsp toasted sesame oil in ORANGE peppercorns to the butter Replace the demerara sugar
a large bowl. Put 2 salmon FROM POLENTA CAKE and use to baste the steaks. in ginger flapjacks with palm
fillets in the bowl, cover with SAFFRON
LOAF WITH SAFFRON Serve with steamed pak choi. sugar and replace 50g of the
the marinade and marinate, P39
SYRUP SPICED STIR-FRY OIL jumbo oats with coconut flakes.
skin-side up, for up to an hour. Visit delicious Pour 500ml rapeseed oil into Search ‘easy ginger flapjack
Drain the salmon (discard and search a deep pan with 3 tbsp sichuan bars’ at
marinade), wrap in foil and bake for ‘orange polenta cake with peppercorns, 5 whole star uk for a good recipe. 115
Dishes worth travelling for
‘It’s not the destination but the journey that counts’ or so the saying
goes. But for the highly food-motivated, it’s what’s waiting on your
plate at journey’s end that is most important. Here, chefs and food
writers Russell Norman, Tim Anderson and Nuno Mendes share the
destinations and dishes that have inspired them most


THIS PICTURE Venice’s Grand Canal;
the Rialto bridge leads to the
colourful market; traditional
bàcaro (wine bar) All’Arco
hungry traveller.

Russell Norman on the dishes that entice him to Italy’s most beautiful
of cities – as many times as life will allow

Venice is an easy large bowl with a little garlic and

city to love. It’s parsley, then beating vigorously
breathtakingly for several minutes with a large
beautiful, famously wooden spoon while introducing
romantic, steeped a thin stream of olive oil. The result
in fascinating history and full of is a fluffy white mousse of such
architectural gems and priceless delicacy and flavour that
art. It also has a unique cultural moderation is impossible.
identity which, when you scratch But even more than the dish that
the surface, reveals a fiercely proud draws me there, it’s the place itself
population with an impressive that I would nominate as the object
culinary heritage. of my pilgrimage. All’Arco is a
I’ve been visiting for over bàcaro, a small bar serving Venetian
30 years, sometimes as a tourist, snacks and local wines. It’s about
once as a honeymooner, most the size of a suburban domestic Russell’s asparagus, gorgonzola,
recently to research its markets, kitchen with room for just 20 people walnut and mint bruschetta
produce and home cooking for standing. But it serves some of the SERVES 4. HANDS-ON TIME 20 MIN
my new book. In fact, since best food in Venice. Because of the
autumn 2016 I’ve been living limited space and restricted cooking If you’re not 3 Toast the sourdough
here, writing (and eating). facilities (there’s a single hob and a TEAM’S a fan of blue in the same pan for a
It will come as no surprise, then, cheese, replace minute or so until griddle
to hear I have developed quite a Scratch the surface the gorgonzola with feta lines appear, then flip
taste for Venetian food. In fact, for a salty, savoury hit. over and toast the other
there are some dishes I associate so
and the city reveals side. Turn off the heat
strongly with the city that a trip a fiercely proud • 50g walnut halves and transfer the grilled
here gets my taste buds tingling population with an • 125g fine asparagus sourdough slices to a
before I have even set off. • 4 thick slices board or 4 plates.

I love the deliciously light veal impressive culinary sourdough bread 4 Rub one side of each
meatballs at Trattoria Ca d’Oro heritage • ½ garlic clove slice of bread lightly
Alla Vedova (Calle Ca’ d’Oro, • 120g gorgonzola with the garlic, then
Cannaregio 3912; Tel: +39 041 528 basin), most of what father and son (see tip) gently crumble over the
5324), always stacked high at the Francesco and Matteo make is • Extra-virgin olive oil gorgonzola. Cut the
bar and so popular that occasionally artfully constructed on small toasts to drizzle asparagus in half
they disappear faster than the (crostini), or on slabs of grilled • A few sprigs fresh lengthways (or leave
kitchen can fry them. Then there is polenta. They are guided entirely by mint, roughly torn whole as in the picture),
the delicate and tender fritto misto the nearby Rialto food market and then lay evenly on top of
at Paradiso Perduto (ilparadiso will only use ingredients that are in 1 Heat a large dry the cheese. Drizzle over, vying for season and of exceptional quality. griddle pan over a high a little olive oil and
pole position with their cacio e It is the philosophy of All’Arco heat for a minute or so sprinkle over the toasted
pepe, a masterclass in superlatively that I summon here with my spring until smoking hot. Toast walnut pieces, mint,
comforting cheesy pasta. offering of English asparagus, the walnuts for a couple a pinch of salt and a
But the dish I come back for, gorgonzola, toasted walnuts and of minutes, turning twist of black pepper.
time and time again, is the baccalà mint on grilled sourdough. Italian frequently, until toasted PER SERVING 359kcals,
mantecato at All’Arco (Calle de cooking is all about keeping things but not burnt, then chop 22.4g fat (7.6g saturated),
l’Ochialer San Polo 436). This simple and using the freshest roughly and set aside. 13.7g protein, 24.3g
traditional recipe, so typical of ingredients you can find. In the 2 Lay the asparagus carbs (2.3g sugars),
Venice and the Veneto, could spirit of that tiny place, the only spears carefully across 1.8g salt, 2.8g fibre
arguably be its signature dish. It’s cooking equipment you need is a the griddle pan and cook WINE EDITOR’S CHOICE
a meticulous preparation that griddle pan and a hob to heat it on. for 2-3 minutes on each The Piedmont white grape
involves soaking dried salt cod for Russell Norman’s latest book, Venice: side until softened and arneis is just right here,
48 hours in frequently refreshed Four Seasons of Home Cooking (£26; charred. Remove from light and dry with a nutty
cold water, flaking the flesh into a Fig Tree), is out now. the pan and set aside. hint – or go for gavi. → 117
TOP LEFT City lights and
nightlife; ramen shop;
Sapporo brewery beer
hall; quirky Mugishutei
beer bar; spiny crabs
ready for cooking

NOODLE NIRVANA IN JAPAN and the restaurant I went to was

actually in an Ainu family’s home.
out. I was their only guest, so I got
In 2005 I was awarded American agriculturalists to help to spend a lot of time talking to
a research grant to establish food industries suited to them – in severely broken Japanese
study noodles in Hokkaido’s chilly prairies, and the and English. It was a wonderful
Japan. It was amazing island became known for foods experience, the food was lovely
fun, if uncomfortable atypical of a traditional Japanese – simple dishes featuring foraged
because of my shoestring budget. diet, including sausages, sweetcorn, vegetables, game and salmon – but
For example, I stayed at a hostel lamb, potatoes, milk and, of course, the memory that stands out the
called Kyoto Cheapest Inn, where barley and hops, to be made into most is when the patriarch learned
I slept on a linoleum floor and was the world-famous Sapporo beer. I was from Wisconsin and said,
charged extra for pillows. I also Bizarrely, many of these are the “Ah! Green Bay Packers!” – our
recall a gruelling 13-hour train same things I grew up with in
journey that made me feel like my Wisconsin, which has a similar The food resonates
ass was going to fall off. climate and terrain, and a similar with me personally, as
My research took me to noodle history of Northern European-style
hotspots around Japan. I loved farming. And when these hearty, a Wisconsin boy who
everywhere I went but Sapporo, on Germanic-Midwestern flavours loves Japanese food
Japan’s northernmost island of combine with Japanese ingredients
Hokkaido, was my favourite. As a and dishes, you get some of the beloved football team. That was just
Wisconsin boy who loves Japanese most satisfying and delicious food one of many highlights from my
food, Sapporo resonates with me. on the planet. first trip to Sapporo.
Let me explain: Hokkaido was But it isn’t just the Wisconsinian I loved the city so much that
once considered a frozen, barbaric comfort foods that make Sapporo I went back in 2007. The local
wasteland, largely because the special. I fondly recall dining at an speciality known as Genghis Khan
climate there doesn’t support many Ainu restaurant there, a once-in-a- – thinly sliced lamb and vegetables,
Japanese staples, particularly rice. lifetime experience considering how barbecued at the table – is
But in the late 1800s, the Japanese few exist. The Ainu, indigenous to unmissable, especially if you have it
government hired European and Hokkaido, now number just 25,000 inside the 19th-century beer hall at

hungry traveller.

Tim’s Sapporo-style butter corn miso ramen


Complete the recipe the pan and whisk to sesame seeds, pepper,
AHEAD to the end of step 3 dissolve, keeping the broth remaining miso and the
up to 48 hours at a low simmer. Meanwhile, mushrooms, then stir-fry for
ahead. Keep the broth, bring 2 litres water to the 8-10 minutes until the pork
mince, garlic, spring onions boil in a separate saucepan. is cooked through and
and sweetcorn in separate 2 Finely slice the green parts slightly browned, breaking
airtight containers in the of the spring onions and set up any chunks of mince or
fridge. Reheat the broth and aside. Coarsely chop the miso. Remove from the heat.
mince separately, then white parts. Put the 2 tbsp 4 Blanch the cabbage and
complete the recipe from oil in a frying pan over a beansprouts in the pan of
step 4 to serve. low-medium heat and add boiling water for 30-60
the garlic, frying slowly until seconds, then remove with
• 1.2 litres good quality golden and crisp (take your a slotted spoon to a bowl and
fresh chicken stock time with it; don’t let the oil toss with the sesame oil.
• 10g dried mushrooms get too hot or it will burn). 5 Cook the noodles in the
(shiitake, porcini, or any Remove the garlic from the same pan of water according
kind will do) oil with a slotted spoon and to the pack instructions. Stir
• 120g brown miso (use red drain on kitchen paper. the broth, then ladle into
miso or barley miso if you 3 Return the pan to a high 4 warmed deep bowls. Drain
can get it) heat and add the sweetcorn. the noodles and divide among
• 4 spring onions Cook for 3-4 minutes until the bowls, top with the other
• 2 tbsp olive oil, plus extra browned, then remove with ingredients and, finally, add
for frying, if needed a slotted spoon and set the butter just before serving
the Sapporo Brewery (sapporo-bier- • 4 garlic cloves, thinly sliced aside. Add a little more oil to so it doesn’t fully melt before Then there’s the local • 198g tin sweetcorn, drained the pan if needed and return it gets to the table.
salmon and its glistening orange • 1 small red onion, roughly to a high heat. Add the PER SERVING 609kcals, 32g
roe, served as sushi or piled onto chopped spring onions (white parts) fat (12.4g saturated), 17.6g
rice bowls. The crab is a must as • 2 anchovy fillets in oil, and the red onion. Fry for protein, 59.3g carbs (11g
well, especially if it’s from Kani drained 4-5 minutes until starting sugars), 4.3g salt, 6.8g fibre
Honke (, where • 250g pork mince to colour, then add the TIM’S TIP Enjoy piping hot
spiny specimens shuffle around in • 1 tsp chilli flakes anchovies and mash into the with a cold Sapporo beer.

artificial ponds before being • ½ tbsp white sesame oil using a spatula. Add the For more ideas for brown
dispatched, then perfectly cooked. seeds, toasted in a dry pan pork mince, chilli flakes, miso, see Loose Ends →
And to go with? Beer, and lots of • ¼ tsp black or white pepper
it – whether it’s fresh local lager or • ¼ hispi cabbage (also
something more robust, Sapporo is called pointed or
simply silly for suds. I’d recommend sweetheart cabbage), core
paying a visit to Mugishutei removed, roughly chopped
(, the oldest • 150g beansprouts
speciality beer bar in Japan, run by • 2 tsp toasted sesame oil
a burly American named Phred. • 240g fresh or frozen ramen
He’ll sort you out with some truly noodles (or dried will do)
world-class (and dangerous) • 60g butter, divided into 4
imperial stouts and barley wines.
But my favourite example of the 1 Combine the chicken stock
wonderful fusions found in and dried mushrooms in a
Hokkaido cuisine is Sapporo’s pan and bring to a simmer.
famously rich miso ramen, topped Bubble gently for 10 minutes
with slowly melting butter and to rehydrate the mushrooms
plump sweetcorn – hard to find in and flavour the stock, then
restaurants outside Japan, but remove with a slotted spoon,
actually surprisingly easy to squeezing them out as you
re-create at home, even if you’ve do. Chop roughly and set
never cooked Japanese food before. aside. Add 80g of the miso to
FROM TOP LEFT The beach has
happy memories for Nuno;
Lisbon spans the river
Tagus; seafood restaurants
pack the city; Portugal’s
famous pastéis de nata;
traditional tiled restaurant

NOSTALGIA FOR LISBON Lisbon) I’m sentimental about the

beach – it’s a kind of saudade, a
Nuno Mendes on the dishes that draw him back home, time and again longing for endless carefree days.
That clarion call of sun, sea, sand
I was born and raised things forward. It feels invigorated and seafood is hard to resist. The
in Lisbon and my first and there’s a sense of optimism – marisqueiras (shellfish restaurants)
food memories are it’s great to be there now. around Guincho beach west of
from there. I live in It wasn’t always that way. I’m 44 Lisbon serve fabulous seafood
London now but I go years old, and for most of my life my dishes. The quality of the fish
back to Lisbon nearly every month. memories are of Lisbon being a sad and seafood in the region is
I love the place. I chose to leave it place. We went through a lot of
behind – for study first, then to see difficult times – not just in the city I chose to leave
the world – but I was always sad to but throughout the country, during Lisbon behind but I
leave it. It has so much – beautiful the Salazar years – so it’s refreshing
beaches, beautiful mountains. It’s a to see my birthplace going through
was always sad I had
port city and it was always a dynamic such a positive era. to leave it
city, a centre of cultural convergence. There are dishes I crave when I go
It’s been influenced by its place at there. I have to eat pastéis de nata outstanding, and the way it’s
the centre of the Age of Discovery, (custard tarts) – everyone does. And cooked… wow.
when Portuguese sailors ruled the açorda, which is a very Portuguese At Restaurante Panorama
waves and Lisbon seemed the dish, a sort of bread porridge that Guincho (
centre of the world. dates back to times of deep poverty they serve fantastic seafood and
NEXT The city has existed for more than when basic ingredients had to be rice dishes. In the seaside town of
Los Angeles on
1,000 years but what I’m enjoying stretched. Made with the right Cascais, just outside Lisbon, there’s
a shoestring now is that there’s a lot of youthful seafood, it’s incredible. Mar do Inferno (
budget energy, with young people pushing Being a Lisboeta (a native of where they make amazing seafood

hungry traveller.

rice and açorda. At both places the Nuno’s Alentejo-style pork and clams (carne de porco à alentejana)
I have a lot of memories of going
to the seaside, first with my parents Marinate the pork up • Handful fresh coriander splash of wine, the
and grandparents and later with my AHEAD to 12 hours ahead, leaves, finely chopped reserved marinade and
partner. The people working there covered in the fridge. • Drizzle extra-virgin olive oil orange juice. Cover and cook
knew my name and used to play with You can find Ibérico for 2 minutes, then discard
me when I was a kid. My parents and TEAM’S pork fat online at 1 In a bowl, mix the pork, any unopened clams.
grandparents are gone now – but, or pork fat, bay leaves, Remove the pan from the
even if I went there with my kids substitute lard. garlic, 70ml wine and heat, stir in the coriander
now, people would probably start paprika. Cover and leave and toss well. Taste and
playing with them. It has that kind • 300g pork loin or neck, cut to marinate in the fridge adjust the seasoning and
of feel. It’s special, that connection. into 2cm cubes for 6 hours, or ideally drizzle with extra-virgin
We’re known in Portugal for our • 2 tbsp Ibérico pork fat overnight (see Make Ahead). olive oil. Serve straight from
pork and clam dishes and this is the (see tips) 2 Rinse the clams under the pan with orange wedges
most famous one. As a chef, I often • 2 bay leaves running water and discard alongside. Sautéed potatoes

combine seafood and pork in the • 1 garlic clove, crushed any open ones. Drain the would be great with this.
same dish, which some people find • 70ml dry white wine, plus pork from the marinade PER SERVING 214kcals,
unfathomable. I smile when I hear extra for cooking (reserve the marinade), heat 10.3g fat (3.1g saturated),
this as it’s perfectly normal back • Generous pinch smoked the olive oil in a large lidded 21.6g protein, 2.7g carbs
home. The briny clam juices add paprika (pimentón) pan over a medium heat, add (1.8g sugars), 1g salt,
a delicious savouriness to the meat. • 300g clams the pork and cook for a few 0.5g fibre
Nuno Mendes’ Lisboeta: Recipes from • 1 tbsp olive oil minutes until browned all WINE EDITOR’S CHOICE
Portugal’s City of Light (£26; • Freshly squeezed orange over. When the pork is A dry, aromatic white from
Bloomsbury) is out now. Photography juice, to taste, plus wedges almost cooked, add the Portugal’s Douro Valley is
© Andrew Montgomery. to serve clams along with an extra the best choice. 121
hungry traveller.


Whatley Manor:
luxury in the Cotswolds
MICHELIN-STARRED WHY IT’S GREAT First impressions count, (smoked eel tempura; aloe vera WHAT’S NEARBY The hotel gardens are
Oysters with
they say, and the manor’s long drive sorbet with pickled grape and citrus pretty in spring, but if you love plant
seaweed are on and grand gates set expectations oil beads); some very good (oyster, life make a beeline for the stunning
the tasting menu high. While the bags were quietly seaweed mignonette; kohlrabi, wood Abbey House Gardens nearby – and
created by chef whisked off, we were given a quick ear); and others a bit hit and miss don’t forget to look in on the tomb of
Niall Keating –
above in the hotel tour: private cinema (£40 to hire, – the ‘egg white custard, noodles, Athelstan, the first king of England,
kitchen garden; with popcorn); a new 12-seater chicken broth’ didn’t work for me in the 12th-century abbey. Prince
our writer hailed Green Room for ‘food adventures’; texture-wise, and one course was Charles’s gardens at Highgrove are
the bed ‘the most
and a luxury spa with hydrotherapy simply the lightest sourdough roll also within striking distance as is
comfortable ever’
pool. Expectations fulfilled. with the creamiest butter – it was Westonbirt Arboretum. But, to be
THE FOOD BIT Executive chef Niall good bread, but strange. honest, you’ll be doing well if you
Keating took over The Dining Room The matching wine flight veered manage to drag yourself from your
restaurant at the start of 2017 and towards the biodynamic and natural, comfy bed as far as the spa.
soon earned a Michelin star for his and head sommelier Daniel Davies WHAT’S NOT SO GREAT No kettle in the
12-course tasting menu (Wed-Sun poured with wit and charm. Adding room for tea, only a pod coffee
eves). There’s no à la carte, so if you to the theatricality, chefs sometimes machine. Breakfast was fine – lovely
don’t fancy downing a dozen little brought the food to the table and Yorkshire Dales yogurt with healthy
courses, opt for the more casual talked you through the dishes. By the choices alongside the usual full
Grey’s Brasserie for steaks, pasta, end I was exhausted – I don’t think English – but lacking the wow factor.
fish and the like: three courses, £35. I’ve ever concentrated so hard and COST From £325 per night including
The Dining Room menu is for so long on nuances of flavour. breakfast; £110 for 12-course tasting
fashionably terse: ‘Tortellini, black’ THE ROOMS Large and luxurious. The menu (not including wine).
was a single tortellini (tortellino?) of biggest, most comfortable bed I’ve delicious. readers get a
squid ink pasta filled with minced ever slept in. I cheered the dead- SPECIAL complimentary cocktail
pork and black garlic; it burst in the simple ‘all lights out’ button by the during their stay*. Quote
mouth releasing rich gingery broth. bed – complicated lighting systems delicious. magazine when booking.
Some of the courses were exquisite drive me insane (ditto shower taps).

just for you.

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and one of the
decadent swim-up bar. At night, which restaurant to try first… Be

fire pits and candlelight create an sure to pack your appetite. loveliest beaches
elegant atmosphere in which to • To enter this competition, visit await the
enjoy the evening’s entertainment, winners of this
dream holiday
which might be a steel band or Blackout dates apply. For Ts&Cs, see
a party on the beach. p129. For more information on Sandals
The prize includes seven nights in Resorts visit 123

Celebrate good times..

• Three celebration cakes –
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royal wedding…
• Pack-and-go feast for
the May bank hols ON
• 5-ingredient dishes SALE
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No. 52

Subscription enquiries 01858 438424

Editorial enquiries 020 7803 4100 Fax 020 7803 4101
Email Web

THIS MONTH WE ASKED What dish are you looking forward to most in April?
Editor Karen Barnes Leftover hot cross buns
Deputy editor Susan Low Purple sprouting broccoli with anchovies, garlic and lemon
Editorial and features assistant Phoebe Stone Rhubarb crumble
Food editor Jennifer Bedloe April’s cover recipe – full of fresh green goodies
Acting food lifestyle editor Lottie Covell Purple sprouting broccoli – the best!
Cookery assistant Olivia Spurrell Wild garlic pesto tossed through pasta with lemon
Art director Jocelyn Bowerman Jersey royals with everything
Art editor Martine Tinney Jersey royals with butter and herbs
Managing editor Les Dunn Steamed asparagus with butter and lots of pepper
Deputy chief sub editor Hugh Thompson Asparagus with parmesan shavings
Senior sub editor Rebecca Almond Roast lamb with asparagus
Senior sub editor (maternity cover) Sara Norman Buttery, minty jersey royals
Wine editor Susy Atkins Gadget tester Aggie MacKenzie
Contributors Xanthe Clay, Lucas Hollweg, James Ramsden
Marketing director Julia Rich 020 7803 4129 Rhubarb crumble
Digital editor Rebecca Brett 020 7803 4130 Bank holiday brunch
Digital editor (maternity cover) Vic Grimshaw 020 7803 4130
Asparagus with poached egg
See how much you really know about Digital producer Isabeau Brimeau Griddled asparagus with butter and garlic. Yum
Digital editorial assistant Ellie Donnell Spring roast lamb with potato dauphinoise
the world of food with Hugh Thompson’s Podcast producer Gilly Smith Braised leeks (I’m Welsh)
culinary conundrum. Answers next month
With thanks to: Hebe Hatton, Alice Gossop, Holly Holmes,

ACROSS Jesse Kempner, Sophie Rose-Hunt

Advertising director Jason Elson 020 7150 5394

1 Poison found in water and soil – also present in rice (7) Trading advertising manager, print & digital Anna Priest 020 7150 5191
6 Swiss dish of grated potato that’s fried as a flat disc (5) Group head, digital Carly Ancell 020 7150 5404
7 Sicilian Easter cake with ricotta, marzipan and candied fruit (7) Group head, partnerships Roxane Rix 020 7150 5039
9 Atholl _____ : Scottish oatmeal, whisky and cream liqueur (5) Project manager, partnerships Emily Griffin 020 7150 5036
10 Anglo-Indian word for a snack – also a chocolate fridge cake (6) Group head, brand Catherine Nicolson 020 7150 5044
Senior sales executive, brand Rachel Dalton 020 7150 5474
13 Offal (rare these days) with the texture of soft scrambled eggs (6)
Senior sales executive, brand James Adams 020 7150 5133
15 Informal name for cheap wine (5) Sales executive, partnerships Elorie Palmer 020 7150 5030
17 In 1913 the Kaiser said to 4 down, “I am the _______ of Germany, Senior sales, partnerships Francesca Andreani 020 7150 5040
you are the _______ of chefs” (7) Sales executive, classified Annabel Glaysher 020 7150 5218
18 Wicker fishing basket, also a trap for lobsters and crabs (5) Regional business development manager Nicola Rearden 0161 209 3629
19 Russian dumpling – a pasta shell filled with meat or fish (7) Business development manager, inserts Steve Cobb 020 7150 5124

DOWN Managing director Seamus Geoghegan

020 7803 4123
Publishing director Adrienne Moyce
1 Large rectangular pork pie without hard-boiled eggs (5) 020 7803 4111
2 Another name for vitamin B3, often added to cereals (6) Consultant editorial director Jo Sandilands
3 Tasty decapod crustacean, good potted or dressed (4) Production director Jake Hopkins 020 7803 4110
4 French chef who modernised 19th century professional cooking (9) Finance director Darren Blundy
5 Alcoholic drink made from fermented apple juice (5) Finance manager Martin Cherry 01733 373135
8 Thistle-like plant whose seeds are crushed for vegetable oil (9)
11 Strong style of Belgian beer – surprisingly not thrice brewed (6)
delicious. magazine is published under licence from News Life Media by Eye to Eye Media Ltd,
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Southernprint Ltd. Colour origination by Rhapsody. Copyright Eye to Eye Media Ltd. All rights reserved.
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for your iles.

APRIL 2018


42 83 32 22
STARTERS, SIDES & NIBBLES FISH & SHELLFISH • Sapporo-style butter corn • Spanish-inspired potato
• Charred broccoli with • Fish finger kimchi rice with miso ramen 119 omelette 111
anchovy and tahini sauce 50 edamame and a fried egg 83 • Sausage spaghetti with • Spinach dhal with roasted
• Dip and salad sharing • Hot-smoked salmon and spinach pesto 86 cauliflower and squash 91
platter 92 asparagus tart 93
• Fake-accia 98 • Mackerel with potato hash 83 POULTRY SWEET THINGS
• Homemade chips 40 • Mouclade 68 • Honey and mustard baked • Apple & blueberry frittata 99
• Leeks with Breton • Omelette Arnold Bennett with chicken and rice 87 • Chocolate and ginger studded
vinaigrette 67 horseradish & chives 28 • Lemon and garlic chicken frangipane galette 31
• Pork rillettes 67 • Prawn, cabbage & sichuan schnitzels with quick • Crepes dentelles with apples
• Red pepper, feta and olive pepper stir-fry 41 puttanesca sauce 85 and caramel 70
fake-accia 98 • Prawns with tamarind • Orange and tarragon chicken • Giant pan cookie 43
• Roast asparagus and red caramel and black pepper 58 traybake 92 • Hazelnut macaroon and
onion with farro 97 • Prawn, vegetable and quinoa • Oven-baked chicken, bacon chocolate fancies 46
• Shallot & dill marinated broth 89 & barley risotto 23 • Macaroons 44
beetroot carpaccio with • Smoked haddock and jersey • Roast chicken with buttery • Miso caramel banoffee
crispy halloumi 33 royal stew 18 stuffing balls 24 éclairs 60
• Spiced cauliflower • Thai-style tuna and broccoli • Chicken katsu 108 • Peach cake with raspberry
cheese 24 salad 49 sauce and ice cream 32
• Tofu with caramel and VEGETARIAN & VEG-BASED • Saffron and orange blossom
sichuan pepper 58 LAMB • Asparagus, gorgonzola, crème caramels with
• Watercress and pistachio • Lentil and kidney bean dhal walnut & mint bruschetta 117 cardamom and orange
soup 97 with fried lamb chops 90 • Asparagus, pea & mint rhubarb 63
risotto 22 • Saffron loaf 38
MAIN COURSES PORK • Butternut squash &
BEEF & GAME • Alentejo-style pork and cauliflower laksa with rice OTHER
• Cheesy Texas meatballs 72 clams (carne de porco à noodles 84 • Anchovy dressing 105
• Lighter cottage pie 100 alentejana) 121 • Crispy tortilla rice bowl 88 • Cream & tarragon
• Lightly cured pan-roast • Creamy chorizo spaghetti • Goat’s cheese & sun-dried dressing 105
pigeon with sorrel sauce with poached eggs 93 tomato risotto 22 • Ginger & soy dressing 105
and crispy bacon 54 • Nachos with pulled pork • Jollof beans (black-eyed • Kir Breton 67
• Slow-cooked beef stew 42 and sweetcorn salsa 28 beans in tomato sauce) 76 • Lemon curd 104

TERMS & CONDITIONS 1. All information forms part of the terms and conditions. 2. Open to UK residents 18 and over, except employees (and families) of Eye to Eye Media Ltd or any other associated
company. 3. Prizes are as offered. No cash alternatives. Subject to availability. 4. To enter, visit and follow the instructions. No purchase necessary. One entry per
household. 5. Emails will not be accepted and entries received after the closing date will not be considered. 6. No responsibility is taken for entries lost or delayed. 7. Winners selected by an independent
panel. The judges’ decision is final; no correspondence will be entered into. 8. Winners will be notified directly and the names listed at 9. Winners agree to take part in
publicity. 10. Information given will not be supplied to a third party. 11. Eye to Eye Media Ltd reserves the right to amend these Ts&Cs, or to cancel, alter or amend the promotion, if deemed necessary in its
opinion. SANDALS RESORTS COMPETITION Prize is a 7-night holiday at Sandals Grenada Resort & Spa including return economy flights from London for two adults. Accommodation is on a Luxury
Included® (all-inclusive) basis in a deluxe room with a king-size bed. Sandals Resorts reserves the right to relocate prize winners from the stated resort to an alternative Sandals resort if rooms become
unavailable for the travel dates requested. Prize must be taken before 30 April 2019. Prize subject to Sandals Resorts’ normal Ts&Cs and subject to availability; excludes peak seasons and cannot be
confirmed until 90 days prior to departure. Once dates are agreed an admin fee applies to change them. Blackout dates may apply, including 1 July to 31 August and 1-31 December 2018, 1 January to
Easter 2019 and select US bank holidays. Domestic transfers not included. Prize excludes telephone calls, spa treatments and other extras. By entering this competition you consent to your details being
shared with Sandals Resorts’ parent company located outside the European Economic Area. ABTA J3152. Promoter: Unique Vacations (UK) Ltd. 129
a good rant.

I’m very sorry I tried to

eat at your restaurant
The new raft of no-bookings restaurants customers, and try to sweep you out
like old crumbs. You apologise for your
are annoying enough without the additional
audacity (imagine! Trying to arrange to
irritation of power-tripping door staf, give them money in exchange for food!)
says writer and food lover Lauren Bravo and reverse out, bowing, before going to
sit quietly in Burger King and think about

S Eliot declared April “the able diners who simply wouldn’t be able to what you’ve done. Or perhaps you pout and
cruellest month” – a sentiment stand in the street for an hour, not even sigh, hoping if you look desolate enough
that seems confusing (had he not for the best cacio e pepe in the world. they might suddenly remember a secret
met January?) until you find yourself But my special peeve is reserved for the table by the loos and give it to you out of
standing in the rain, without a brolly, door staff. Not the harried, apologetic pity. Or maybe you splutter and rage? It
waiting for your dinner. ones – lord knows they have enough to doesn’t matter, because the end result is
This season of sudden, squally showers put up with – but the ones who make you the same. No dinner for you, chump.
is all well and good if you’re watching feel like a total idiot for even daring to ask I understand that the alternative to
nature’s showcase through the windows for a table. You know, the power-trippers: the no-reservations approach is hot
of an oven-warmed kitchen, but not if part bouncer, part St Peter with an iPad. restaurants with three-month waiting
you’ve set your sights on that impenetrable “I... I don’t suppose there’s any chance lists, and nobody wants that either. But if
fortress of the food scene: a restaurant that of a table for two is there?” you whisper, we’re stuck with no-bookings restaurants,
doesn’t take reservations. The trend began knowing before the words have left your can we please curb the attitude that goes
in London but, like the hype, it’s spreading with them? A sympathetic smile, that’s all
– so if your local pavements aren’t yet beset I ask. A tacit acknowledgement that this
by hordes of hungry punters, just wait.
They make you feel like whole hoopla is vaguely ridiculous, and
The no-bookings restaurant brings an idiot for daring to ask a “better luck next time”.
much to whinge about. There’s the panic for a table… They’re part The warm welcome may indeed be
on approaching the place pre-6pm to find dispensable so long as there are queues
a queue already snaking out the door. bouncer, part St Peter out the door, but every hot new place cools
There are the cold feet, the sharp elbows, with an iPad off eventually – especially if it’s pouring.


the slew of frantic WhatsApps. The having So please don’t leave us with a sour taste
to eat your dinner at either a geriatric lips that the answer is going to be a mix before we’ve even made it to a table.
5:30pm or a basically-breakfast 10pm, of pity and mockery. “Tchuh!” comes the
both of which necessitate extra meals to reply, a noise somewhere between a laugh,
Do you agree with Lauren or do you
keep you going. Not to mention never snort and scoff. “We don’t have anything take a different view? Tell us at
being able to take your in-laws because until at least 9:45pm – two weeks on and
you don’t want to make them stand in the Thursday.” Then they tell you to move out we’ll print the best replies
street for an hour – or the difficulty for less of the way of the actual, sainted

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