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since 2001. Citizen WatchTime. you watch journalists at WatchTime and our sister can read all 267 (and counting) tests as part of publication. er comments at our five “Inside Basel-Geneva” sue contains scored tests of three or four watches. through the October 2013 issue.) mats. is that WatchTime puts its and Girard-Perregaux. We know this from surveys of our world. one is from 2011. Omega. lished recently. mation. whose primary WatchTime’s All Access Subscription Package. Our editorial mission is to offer read.com. in addi- a detailed explanation of the test procedures. WATCHTIME the myriad details about watchmaking in each test story. For more infor- compiles tests of 26 watches that we have pub. The WatchTime tests are the poster child readers conducted by the noted research company for that editorial approach. The watch tests are the most popular articles in analytical reporting on watches and the watch WatchTime.WT_STI_2013_006_EditorsLetter_02 23. Each is. market. in-depth. CHEVALIER). (The one watch no longer available is the Citi- Watch tests are the signature feature of zen Promaster 1000 M Professional Diver. All but one of the watches in the issue are current- ly available in the U. The tests are conducted by a team of If you are a watch-test kind of guy or gal. The tests are of a range of Joe Thompson brands we tested in that period: from top-tier. Editor-in-Chief 6 WatchTime Tests 2013 . For the record. watch that period. useful and entertaining. has replaced it with another model. a watch collector and HAS PUBLISHED TESTS OF WatchTime reader in Dallas. watch-collector events. simply put. when we switched to the 100-point test scale. I learned from reading WatchTime tests. We are one of the few GfK MRI. That’s supported by feedback we get magazines in the world – and the only one in Eng. independent.) ers original. but al- so for the education in horology they receive from SINCE 2001. to more afford- able brands like Movado. We have updated the prices.” RANGING FROM 95 (ROLEX) We hope that you find this special issue educa- tional. including all watch tests. 267 WATCHES WITH SCORES “Everything I know about watchmaking. IWC and Panerai. once told me. Chronos. tomatic) to a high of 95 (for the Rolex Yacht-Mas- point scale for each watch it tests. “What’s the difference be- tween WatchTime and other watch magazines?” The answer. access to the entire WatchTime editorial WatchTime’s Watch Tests is a special issue that archive. criteria. The United States alone has half a dozen. in Germany. test scores have ranged from a low of manufacturers have no input in the testing process. see tion to the magazine in both print and digital for- “How We Test Watches” on page 16. go to watchtime. based on nine ter II). Occa- sionally someone asks.97 and gives you. TO 68 (J. (For The package costs $49. otherwise the articles appear here as they did originally. lim.08. ics. with the same texts and graph- advertisers to the test. duty is to conduct tests and write test articles. from readers via email and letters. Hamilton and Citizen. to Swiss power-players like Rolex. In The tests are completely independent. Nearly all of the articles are from 2012.S.13 09:36 Seite 6 EDITOR´S Letter Putting Brands to the Test atch aficionados know that ited-production marques like Audemars Piguet W there are a surprising number of watch magazines in the world. authoritative. 68 (for the J. Readers tell us that they sometimes more. WatchTime has published tests of 267 watches. and from read- lish – that conducts our own watch tests. Chevalier Tonneau Cambré Noir Au- WatchTime issues a numerical score on a 100. As Dale Kuckelburg. value the tests not only for the wealth of informa- tion that they get about each watch tested.

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Inside. with only minor changes to its design. this version of the IWC Big Pilot’s 34 Watch incorporates a cockpit rarity.13 09:37 Seite 8 CONTENTS WatchTime Special Issue: Watch Tests. 8 WatchTime Tests 2013 .08. We put this high flyer through our rigorous test. 42 ABOVE THE CLOUDS Whether in the air or on the ground. 50 MAKING IT NEW The Luminor 1950 3 Days 47 mm is a near- replica of a coveted vintage Panerai. See how the watch fared in our test. the Zenith Pilot Big Date Special is always at home.WT_STI_2013_TOC_03 23. How does this pioneering divers’ watch stand up to testing today? 26 HOW HIGH THE MOONS? We tested two versions of Omega’s famous Speedmaster Moonwatch. though. a watch built for sport but suited for leisure. a perpetual calendar. Fall 2013 6 EDITOR’S LETTER 18 16 18 HOW WE TEST WATCHES DIVING MASTER The Rolex Submariner has been around for 60 26 years. through its paces. How do case and caliber fare under our close scrutiny? 58 PLANE AND FANCY One of the most intricate pilots’ watches ever made. is a new in-house movement. Which scored better? 34 DIVING CLASS We put Audemars Piguet’s Royal Oak Offshore Diver.

Light-Powered Eco-Drive Movement Never Needs a Battery. Satellite Timekeeping System with Worldwide Reception Area. Anti-Reflective Dual Curved Sapphire Crystal.com SATELLITE WAVE-AIR. 200 Meter Water Resistant. Power Reserve Indicator.WATCH_ppcoplcd3282.1 8/16/13 10:27 AM Page 1 INTRODUCING CITIZEN ECO-DRIVE SATELLITE WAVE-AIR PRECISE TIME… ANYWHERE ON EARTH Eco-Drive SATELLITE WAVE-AIR™ citizenwatch. Perpetual Calendar. Caliber H909 Movement. World Time in 26 Time Zones. Titanium Case with Diamond Like Carbon Coating. ©2013 Citizen Watch Company .

larger. well. powered by the first fruit of this venture. Here. large and. 75 CHRONO TEST FEST If you like chronographs. we see how well it stands our test of time. you’ll enjoy these seven mini-tests of chronos plain and fancy. We tested the Classic Manufacture. 10 WatchTime Tests 2013 . Baume & Mercier Capeland 76 Frédérique Constant Vintage Racing Chronograph 80 Hamilton Khaki Field Officer Auto Chrono 84 Porsche Design P’6620 Dashboard 88 Stowa Pilots’ Chronograph 90 58 Movado Datron Montblanc Sport DLC Chronograph Automatic 92 94 96 FIRST RESPONDER Chopard answered the challenge of limited supplies from ETA by setting up its own factory to make less-expensive movements.08. and if you like watch tests. its sister company in the Swatch Group. 104 TIME AND AGAIN Girard-Perregaux’s Vintage 1945 XXL brings modern styling and technology to a World War II-era classic.13 09:38 Seite 10 CONTENTS WatchTime Tests 42 50 66 GROUP EFFORT Longines’s Column Wheel Chronograph contains a movement made especially for the brand by ETA.WT_STI_2013_TOC_03 23.

18-carat red gold case. Diameter 43 mm. C OM . ref. tourbillon frame at 12 o’clock.WATCH_ppcoplcd3343.1 8/21/13 12:57 PM Page 1 Tourbillon.J AQU E T-D ROZ . Self-winding tourbillon movement. Hours and minutes indicators at 6 o’clock.Power reserve of 7 days. W W W. J013033200 Ivory Grand Feu enameled dial.

See how it 110 142 held up during the less-than-royal treatment of a WatchTime test.13 09:39 Seite 12 CONTENTS WatchTime Tests 96 110 MINUTES’ NOTICE Instead of the standard small elapsed-minutes hand. 124 SHADES OF GRAY With its shiny. How did it stand up to WT’s rough- and-tumble test? 12 WatchTime Tests 2013 . Oris Tubbataha Limited Edition 144 Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean 600M Co-axial 146 Porsche Design P’6780 Diver 148 Citizen Promaster 1000 M Professional Diver 150 152 TOUGH TIME This two-time-zone watch from Mühle- Glashütte is rugged enough for any off-road journey. titanium-ceramic case. 116 EXPLORING THE NEW EXPLORER II In 2011. Chanel’s J12 Chromatic is a triumph of form. lightweight. Bucherer’s Manero Central Chrono has an eye-catching.WT_STI_2013_TOC_03 23. Now we see how it functions. WATER BABIES We see how four divers’ watches withstand the rigors of actual diving. 130 ROYAL REDUX The new Extra-Thin 39MM Royal Oak from Audemars Piguet is the spitting image of the original Royal Oak from 1972. center-mounted 104 one.08. Find out how this intrepid watch fared in our intense test. Rolex made changes to the Explorer II both inside and out. Carl F. We take the measure of this quirky chrono.

FL | Abt Time Boutique Glenview. NC Shreve & Co. SC | Occasions Fine Jewelry Midland. PA | Sylvan’s Jewelers Columbia.1 8/21/13 12:47 PM Page 1 Self-powered micro gas lights Manual winding . MA | Northeastern Fine Jewelry Albany. Petersburg & Tampa. VA | Keller & George Charlottesville. NY | Schiffman’s Greensboro & Winston-Salem. TX | Schwarzschild Jewelers Richmond. VA . Portland.WATCH_ppcoplcd3347. IL Long’s Jewelers Boston. NY | Bassano Jewelry New York. TX Shannon Fine Jewelry Houston & The Woodlands. CA | Exquisite Timepieces Naples. FL | Old Northeast Jewelers St.com Tel: 727-896-4278 Time Spot Thousand Oaks.ballwatch. OR | Benari Jewelers Newtown Square.44mm BALL Watch USA www.

WT_STI_2013_014_Masthead 23.08.13 09:40 Seite 14

WATCH TESTS
Editor-in-Chief/Associate Publisher Joe Thompson
Executive Editor Norma Buchanan
Managing Editor Dara Hinshaw
Technical Editor Mike Disher
Associate Editor Jay Deshpande
Digital Media Editor Mark Bernardo
Digital Media Assistant Jason Francisco
Art Direction/Design Publishers Factory, Munich
Contributing Writers Gwendolyn Benda
Gisbert L. Brunner
Rüdiger Bucher
Maria-Bettina Eich
Jens Koch
Alexander Krupp
Alexander Linz
Witold A. Michalczyk
Martina Richter
Gerhard Seelen
Lucien F. Trueb
Thomas Wanka
Translations Howard Fine
Magdalena Grau
Joanne Weinzierl
Photographers Robert Atkinson
Nina Bauer
Imagina
Marcus Krüger
Nicolas Lieber
OK-Photography
Eveline Perroud
Maik Richter
Nik Schölzel
Zuckerfabrik Fotodesign
CEO Gerrit Klein
Managing Director/Publisher Dominik Grau
Advertising & Event Sales Director Sara M. Orlando
Event Manager Minda Larsen
Office Manager Steve Brown
Production Director Michael Kessler
Newsstand Circulation Ralph Perricelli and Irwin Billman MCC
Tom Prior CMG

All rights reserved, including the right of reproduction in whole or in part in any form.
Copyright 2013 by Ebner Publishing International, Inc., 274 Madison Ave., Suite 804, New York, NY 10016
www.watchtime.com

WT_STI_2013_procedures 23.08.13 09:41 Seite 16

HOW WE TEST
WATCHES
BY MIKE DISHER
WATCHTIME TECHNICAL EDITOR

atchTime is the only THE TEST EDITOR WEARS THE WATCH

W English-language watch
magazine that does in-
dependent product tests.
These tests have been a
cornerstone of WatchTime since its
launch in 1999. The tests are conducted
FOR UP TO TWO WEEKS, USING IT
JUST AS THE OWNER WOULD.

by a team of specialist editors at our sister amplitude in all the positions. Finally, the and he compares the watch with similar
publication, Chronos, in Germany. The watchmaker notes the movement’s manu- models to determine overall value for the
editors select watches based on reader in- facturer and he inspects the movement to dollar.
terest, and in comparison tests, they se- judge its quality. The editor and the At the end of the test, the editor as-
lect watches they feel readers might com- watchmaker review the watch together, signs the watch a series of scores on a
pare when shopping for a new timepiece. focusing on the construction and finish of 100-point scale. The watch is graded on
Once selected, the watches are all components including the case, dial, nine criteria: movement (20 points), over-
sourced directly from the manufacturers strap or bracelet, and buckle. all value (15 points), design (15 points),
or their authorized distributors. The test Phase two is the “wearing test,” con- rate results (10 points), wearing comfort
editor has the watch for two to three ducted by the reviewing editor. He wears (10 points), case (10 points),
weeks. The test has two phases. One of the watch daily for up to two weeks to strap/bracelet and clasp (10 points), legi-
them, the technical phase, is conducted gauge each aspect of the watch, making bility (5 points) and operation (5 points).
by an expert watchmaker who measures every effort to use the watch just as its The editor also sends the watch to a
the movement’s performance on a owner would. Chronographs are used to photographer who specializes in watch
Witschi timing machine. The timing is time events; divers’ watches to go under photography. When the photos are ready,
checked twice, at an interval of at least 24 water, etc. The editor pays close attention the test is formatted for the magazine.
hours. Chronographs are tested with the to comfort, functionality, legibility and Along with the editor’s report, we present
chrono on and off. The timing is tested design. Each component is scrutinized: a “Pros and Cons” list, where we sum-
for 5 minutes in each of six positions: the case, bezel, lugs, dial, crystal, crown, marize the watch’s best and worst fea-
four hanging and two flat. The watch- pushers, strap or bracelet and buckle all tures, a “Specs” box, which contains all
maker notes the timekeeping accuracy in receive attention. Is the watch comfort- of the basic information about the watch,
each position. He then calculates the able? Is it legible? How well does it oper- along with the timing results and the
greatest deviation between positions and ate? How well is it made? How well does price, and a “Scores” box, with the edi-
the average deviation. The watchmaker it keep time on the wrist? Is anything tor’s numerical ratings in the nine cate-
also measures the average balance-wheel missing? The editor looks for any faults, gories listed above.

16 WatchTime Tests 2013

.

08.WT_STI_2013_Rolex_Submariner_03 23.13 09:53 Seite 18 Pros + Excellent design + Superior finishing + Noteworthy in-house movement Cons – Distracting Cyclops date window – Imperfect regulation .

How does this pioneering divers’ watch stand up to testing today? BY JENS KOCH PHOTOS BY NIK SCHÖLZEL WatchTime Tests 2013 19 .08. with only minor changes to its design.WT_STI_2013_Rolex_Submariner_03 23.13 09:53 Seite 19 DIVING The Rolex Submariner has been around for 60 years.

.WT_STI_2013_Rolex_Submariner_03 23.08.13 09:53 Seite 20 TEST Rolex Submariner Date The clasp is secure and easy to use and can extend the bracelet in small increments.

31 jewels. as well as a window. height = 5. seals to keep out moisture. Divers will also appreciate the height = 12. the Sub. Flat positions 295° cent change was made in 2010 with the ter resistance of 300 meters is sufficient Hanging positions 257° introduction of a ceramic bezel for the for recreational divers. However. threaded caseback. reflective surface of the unidirec. 48-hour power reserve Case: Stainless steel. Platinum- people with reduced vision since the date filled recessed numerals and markers is magnified so much. Its wa. The Cerachrom bezel is a the date disappears and a portion of the huge improvement over the aluminum dial becomes magnified. Dimensions: Diameter = 40 mm. The case tive and modern.08. screw- down Triplock crown.900 Crown right –2 markers and polished sides on the case meters. automatic. Rue François-Dussaud 3-7. untreated crystal — tend to detract from The black Cerachrom ceramic bezel overall legibility. weight = 148 grams Although it was designed 60 years Rolex Triplock crown. and since then. which could be considered an advantage for could be scratched easily.13 09:53 Seite 21 SPECS ROLEX OYSTER PERPETUAL SUBMARINER DATE Manufacturer: Montre Rolex SA. minutes. Applied um valve.8 larger case with a crown guard (1959) mariner is thinner than the Sea-Dweller Average amplitude: and a date display (1965). Switzerland Reference number: 16610LN Functions: Hours. W Glucydur balance with Microstella fine regulation. making it just as timed precisely to the minute. scratching. meter has been running. resistant 904L stainless steel.WT_STI_2013_Rolex_Submariner_03 23. At any other angle. Average deviation –1.550 ago.37 mm.800 vph. diameter = 28. the Rolex ring has been a feature of the Sub- “Cyclops” date window makes it hard to mariner since 2010. date display. The bezel tional. The most re.5 mm. with its heli. this one on the preceding model. water resistant to 300 meters Bracelet and clasp: Stainless-steel Oyster bracelet with safety clasp with adjustable extension Rate results: (Deviations in seconds per 24 hours) Dial up 0 hen Rolex introduced the Submariner in The Submariner should not be Dial down 1 1953. In addition. it was the first divers’ watch with a viewed strictly as a divers’ watch. only mi. sapphire crystal. Its Crown up –5 rotating bezel and water resistance to a position as Rolex’s professional divers’ Crown down –1 depth of 100 meters. the Submariner is still both attrac. 28. hack mechanism Movement: In-house movement 3135. these features — especially the flat. minutes hand to tell how long your pas- Even though the dial is still easy to ta has been cooking or your parking read. blue Parachrom hairspring with Breguet overcoil. crown guard. Kif shock absorber. This material has read the date unless you are looking at an extremely hard surface that resists the watch straight on. ceramic bezel. and its lack of a Cyclops date Greatest deviation of rate 6 and bracelet have been added.5 mm thick. steel Submariner Date. by more than half a centimeter. The design was an watch was taken over in 1967 by the instant success. its water resistance to 3. central seconds. even sturdier Sea-Dweller. At 12. CH-1211 Geneva. on the ceramic ring provide a good con- WatchTime Tests 2013 21 . Crown left –4 nor changes have been made. the shiny black dial is suited not just for diving but for oth- and the flat sapphire crystal gives this er applications — any interval can be watch an elegant feel.5 mm. which has five Price: $8. The combination of the and bracelet are made of salt-water- smooth. Simply appropriate for business as for casual line up the triangle on the track to the wear.

steel bracelet is secured with a sturdy The watch is comfortable to wear due low-friction aluminum reversers add a folding clasp with adjustable extension. Although the in-house Super-LumiNova. A sturdy balance bridge takes Legibility (5): The hands contrast well bezel. cock with one-sided support. ment. Its comfort is en. Although the Cyclops the sides of the bracelet and clasp are pol. Its sturdy and durable 60 years. the smooth inner surface hairspring. has been per day. on the market. 10 enhance the rate performance. much better than conventional hair- and scratch-resistant ceramic bezel.WT_STI_2013_Rolex_Submariner_03 23. finish on the perforated rotor and auto- ROLEX OYSTER PERPETUAL The luminous zero marker on the bezel is matic bridge. Even without this improve- a need to wear the steel bracelet loosely. The Witschi Chronoscope XI improved with an in-house hairspring. a sophisticated precisely.” is completely resistant to Other noteworthy features include pol- ished and satin finishes. a SUBMARINER DATE also easily visible. 9 to its flat case and moderate weight splash of color. was -1. seconds per day. 5 overcoil ensures the consistent concen- Wearing comfort (10): The well-made tric expansion and contraction of the clasp extension. 5 supple steel bracelet. However. ished screw heads. The finishes are also impressive — the place of a conventional balance with the dial. The watch contains a new blue hair- Operation (5): The fluted crown with quick date adjustment and hack hanced by the smooth caseback. This clasp is heavier than its predecessors and new alloy. the ished while the upper surfaces have a knurled adjusters are used to fine-tune displays are clearly visible and glow satin finish. the balance endshake. It was smoothly ratcheting rotating bezel. 10 points): has a luminous dot so a diver can confirm beveled and polished edges and pol- The well-designed and superbly finished at a glance that his watch is running. The color gives the movement 3135 (which has powered watch an elegant look and makes it ex. The tri. enables you to adjust the bracelet more “Parachrom.8 seconds per day. the Submariner Date since 1989) was tremely easy to read in the dark. Nevertheless. so there’s no longer springs. and the Microstella screws and the flat case make this steel watch on the inner side of the balance wheel very comfortable to wear. The new Glide-Lock added to the Submariner in 2010. This classic watch is both attractive and timeless. this caliber is considered to be Design (15): Only minimal changes have as before. durability showed a “minus” rate of three seconds and consistent rate results. 14 TOTAL: 92 POINTS 22 WatchTime Tests 2013 . Since the sapphire crystal is only slightly higher than the bezel. The red-anodized. 7 plitude drop between the horizontal Overall value (15): The fairly high price is justified by the high quality in every detail and the watch’s lasting value. This makes it easy to give your magnetic fields and withstands shocks crown gasket. 18 showed the greatest deviation among Rate results (10): The slight negative positions. results of the wearing test ment. Bracelet and clasp (max. perlage on the bridges. A safety bar and easy-to-oper. Movement (20): The manufacture move. the flat spring made of a niobium-zirconium al- mechanism is as easy to use as the inner surface of the folding clasp and the loy with an oxidized outer layer. Its blue The only thing missing is a trans- glow is considerably brighter than that of parent caseback. Even the seconds hand matte line finish on the steel parts. 9 tivity or on hot days. Like the Sea-Dweller Deepsea. Two window is somewhat distracting. it angle at 12 o’clock and the bar markers still offers something to see: a sunburst SCORES at 6 and at 9 o’clock provide orientation. The Breguet bright blue at night. designed primarily as a workhorse. The average deviation The drop in amplitude between the hori. a rather disappointing six result and greatest deviation are not ideal.08. one of the best automatic movements been made to the design during the past ate catch keep the clasp from opening ac.13 09:53 Seite 22 TEST Rolex Submariner Date trast to the curved gold hands and ap- plied gold markers. (about 150 grams). which Rolex has dubbed Case (10): The overall quality is high. salt-water-resistant steel wrist a bit more space after physical ac. designed for sturdiness. the clasp is just design permits extremely precise ad- as easy to use as the fluted crown and justment. it is better protected from impacts than on older Submariner models. 15 cidentally. the Submariner uses the luminous material Chromalight on its dial and bezel. Even the am- zontal and vertical positions is too high.

We appreciate the superior finishes. once a problem. The brand’s positive image and the fact that its models change very little over time help the watch retain its value. all of which justify the price. and the rate results could be better. Special mention should also be made of the ex- tremely high quality of the watch in every The sturdy Rolex Cal.13 09:54 Seite 23 positions (dial up and dial down) and the vertical positions was too high. The Submariner Date is an attractive everyday watch in the best sense of the word. But significant improve- ments have been made. Overall.  . the rates were acceptable. wearing comfort and good legibility. The Submariner Date has a fairly high price of $8. The Sub- mariner rightfully enjoys its place as a role model for divers’ watches.550. such as the recent addition of the scratch-resistant ceramic bezel and the in-house hairspring. It can be worn on any occasion and has no major flaws. the Cy- clops window is a point of contention. A lengthy waiting period to acquire one. no longer seems to be af- fecting the Submariner Date. hairspring. from the hands and the bezel was improved with the ratchets to the polished screws in the addition of an in-house movement. though. 3135 detail.WT_STI_2013_Rolex_Submariner_03 23. Nonetheless.08.

40-minute dive. we several times. German diving instructor Jens Dweller solves this problem with an addi- Köppe took the Rolex under water for a tional fold-out extension piece.WT_STI_2013_Rolex_Submariner_03 23. But before he could be. Rolex’s Deepsea Sea- diving. it was still not long enough gave the Submariner a practical for the watch to be worn over a thick test to find out if it was truly suitable for wetsuit or gloves.13 09:54 Seite 24 TEST Rolex Submariner Date The Submariner is easy to operate and read under water. During the test. Even operation of the rotating bezel was “sim- 24 WatchTime Tests 2013 .08. our diver used a wa- gin we had to replace a bracelet link that terproof writing tablet and noted that the had been previously removed. DIVING WITH THE SUBMARINER A s a supplement to our standard though the bracelet could be extended test (see preceding article).

The watch was nonetheless somewhat hard to read when viewed from the side due to the highly reflective surface of the crystal. The diving time was legible even when general visibility was limited by water-borne particles. featuring large markers instead of tal time the diver has spent in the water – numerals. diving time and ze. Rather. in fact. en depth without a decompression stop). they don’t show the actual time or the to- sign. Diver Jens Köppe ing the test. even under poor puters often provide safety-related infor- light conditions. mation such as depth.” our diver said. While simple dive com- legibility of the watch. The high quality of the watch impressed him above and be- low the surface of the water. The elapsed dive time could ro time (the time one can remain at a giv.” The watch’s high price might make some people reluctant to take it on a dive. This was also true dur. “a great feeling. occurred during our test). which can be important for rotating bezel. Köppe noted the superior tary instrument. he said. where it can be scratched from unavoid- able contact with often-heavy diving equipment (this. The Submariner passed our test.WT_STI_2013_Rolex_Submariner_03 23.13 09:54 Seite 25 ple. It had.  divers because changing tides may pres- ent the risk of being carried too far out to sea.08. “Very good. The actual time was also easy the perfect reason to wear a watch with a to read.” The diving time watch cannot replace a dive computer. The Submariner gained points for its wearing comfort. Köppe al. Date under water. nice and smooth. It should be noted that a divers’ WatchTime Tests 2013 25 . tested the Submariner be read very easily under water. At the end of the day each own- er must decide for himself whether to use this watch for actual diving. as can occur at depths of only a few meters. It showed itself to be a true divers’ watch that can be used under actual diving con- ditions. no trouble at all. was easy to set with or without gloves. so liked the Submariner’s minimalist de. it should be used as a supplemen- Before the dive.

Which scored better? MOONS?BY JENS KOCH PHOTOS BY NIK SCHÖLZEL .WT_STI_2013_Moonwatch_03 23.08.13 10:02 Seite 26 HOW HIGH We tested two versions of Omega’s famous THE Speedmaster Moonwatch.

WT_STI_2013_Moonwatch_03 23.08.13 10:02 Seite 27 Pros + Classic design + Good craftsmanship + Moderate price Cons – Poor rate results – No stop-seconds function – No date display Pros + Well-constructed manufacture movement + Very accurate rate results + Attractive design + High-quality craftsmanship Cons – High price WatchTime Tests 2013 27 .

54 jewels. this escapement was invented by the Crown down +3 / +3 renowned late British watchmaker Crown left +3 / +3 George Daniels. Aside from their movements. With chronograph switched off/on tains the new Omega chronograph Cal.2 / +3. Average amplitude: sional Moonwatch. co-axial case with lugs that slope diagonally to- escapement. water resistant to 100 meters crown and push-pieces. either. The Speed. 28. diameter = 32. ward both the inside and the outside. As Omega fans know. 60 elapsed minutes and 12 elapsed tion with space travel. Movement: Omega 9300. Launched in 1957 and selected by NASA for manned mis- sions to outer space in the 1960s. minutes.WT_STI_2013_Moonwatch_03 23. It con. Omega introduced a new safety buttons version of the Speedmaster Moonwatch Rate results: called the Speedmaster Moonwatch (Deviation in seconds per 24 hours) Omega Co-axial Chronograph.6 mm The alternating satin-finished and pol- Case: Stainless steel. CH-2504 Bienne. no. bracelet.01. Dial up +2 / +2 iber 9300. And the watch is still Reference number: 311. automatic. the dif.13 10:03 Seite 28 COMPARATIVE TEST Two Omega Moonwatches he Omega Speedmaster can look back on an impressive history. larity. height = 7. In this comparison Greatest deviation 2 /2 test. hours. an automatic movement that Dial down +3 / +4 incorporates a co-axial escapement and Crown up +4 / +4 silicon hairspring. a feat that has made it one of the world’s most famous watches and in. two greatest legibility. stop-seconds function frills design no doubt adds to its popu. But the success of the Speedmaster chronograph with combined counters for Moonwatch isn’t due just to its connec. which has a manual- Flat positions 295° / 283° wind movement. Dimensions: Diameter = 44. Rue Stämpfli they leave their spacecraft and venture 96.A. Its classic. Nivachoc shock absorption. fine adjustment via weight screws on balance.5 mm.30. who sold the concept to Crown right +4 / +4 Omega in the 1990s. Switzerland into outer space. the Speedmaster Profes. Only at second glance barrels. height = 15. Functions: Hours..08.800 vph. Price: $8.700 28 WatchTime Tests 2013 . fully away. SPECS spired Omega to attach the word “Moonwatch” to its name. we put this new version up against Average deviation +3. The right side of the case is threaded screw-in back with pane of broader than the left to protect the sapphire. and a Hanging positions 269° / 263° standard escapement.25 mm.3 the older one. do you notice the elaborately shaped Glucydur balance. SPEEDMASTER MOONWATCH OMEGA master is also the only watch that NASA CO-AXIAL CHRONOGRAPH astronauts are permitted to wear when Manufacturer: Omega S.44. 60-hour power reserve. The dial was designed for the chronometer. and the bezel sits Bracelet and clasp: Stainless-steel high atop the case.8 mm.51. date. seconds. it has accompanied astronauts on every lunar landing. stainless-steel folding clasp with In 2011. curved sapphire ished surfaces aren’t noticeable right crystal is nonreflective on both sides. weight = 178 g ferences between the Speedmaster Co- axial and the older model are the for.002 being built in nearly unchanged form. Caliber 1861.

WT_STI_2013_Moonwatch_03 23.00 new version has a steeply curved sap. 21. 48-hour power reserve. WatchTime Tests 2013 29 .9 mm Case: Stainless steel. though cause its individual links always remain a Incabloc shock absorption. diameter = 27 mm.700) SPECS date display at 6 o’clock.08. These give the 96. minutes. seconds. so pieces with narrow. height = 14 mm. Both screws and a freely moving crosspiece in Movement: Caliber 1861. water resistant to 50 meters Bracelet and clasp: Stainless-steel bracelet. height = 6. merly occupied by the elapsed-hours The metal bracelets. the space for. both feature broad inner MOONWATCH elapsed-minutes counter at 3 o’clock. are smaller than the varia. The bracelet of the automatic model chronograph with counter for 60 elapsed proved bracelet. certain minimum distance away from balance.13 10:03 Seite 29 mer’s larger case and the addition of a tion in price ($4. each link and is more comfortable be..5 / +2. Glucydur considerable. curved Hesalite crystal.600 vph. CH-2504 Bienne. phire crystal and caseback and an im. watches offer very good craftsmanship. The Reference number: 3570. would suggest. stainless-steel folding clasp with safety buttons Rate results: (Deviation in seconds per 24 hours) With chronograph switched off/on Dial up -11 / +2 Dial down -14 / -5 Crown up +5 / +11 Crown down -4 / -2 Crown left -2 / +2 Crown right +5 / +6 Greatest deviation 19 / 16 Average deviation -3. raised and polished Manufacturer: Omega S. Functions: Hours. The differences between the two. which have SPEEDMASTER PROFESSIONAL counter. Rue Stämpfli both elapsed minutes and elapsed hours areas at left and right.500 versus $8.A.50. the older one has a promises greater longevity thanks to minutes and 12 elapsed hours Hesalite crystal and solid caseback. fine adjustment via index and eccentric. chronometer. This counter has now joined the brushed links. classic model’s bracelet has pinned links. The bracelets a high-quality appearance. weight = 150 g Price: $4.500 The new model (left) has a sapphire caseback and an improved bracelet.3 Average amplitude: Flat positions 311° / 266° Hanging positions 255° / 227° Dimensions: Diameter = 42 mm. 18 jewels. fully threaded screw-in back made of stainless steel. Switzerland can be read on the same subdial. hand-wound.

It gained an average of two seconds of the balance rim. Like the au. There’s also a regu- This is also useful because the new lator-free fine-adjustment mechanism Speedmaster keeps time with great preci. was Bracelet and clasp (max. 13 older watch has no date display. Except for the absence of the outstanding accuracy. age deviation was still an acceptable -3. tude sometimes declined below 230 de. and horizontal coupling. The clasps seconds.13 10:03 Seite 30 COMPARATIVE TEST Two Omega Moonwatches each other. iber 9300 as precise as it is. Although the aver- Design (15): A beautiful classic with the word “Professional” on the new version. axial caliber. cient space for the co-axial escapement. The hairspring is thus per day when worn. 5 sion is the absence of a stop-seconds movements. The most important value deter. This adjustment tended that the co-axial escapement re- method isn’t quite as speedy as a rapid. SPEEDMASTER PROFESSIONAL problem with the older. A greater drawback with this ver. seconds. set in hourly increments. to the second generation of co-axial only the average deviation is acceptable.” the sturdy changing the positions of the minutes or exert friction and to the pallet stones. The hour hand can be re. but their satin. The new Nivachoc system is said 30 WatchTime Tests 2013 .5 charm of a precision instrument 15 the two clasps are alike in every way. Movement (20): The hand-wound with the same smoothness and are equal. the 9300 belongs the amplitude declines too drastically. the wrist.08. these new ratio remains good. only two seconds – and that’s a very low The steel bracelet is merely pinned. contributes to spring and fall. although the little hairs on the finished surfaces are easily scratched. pieces are easy to use. any embellishments. MOONWATCH The smooth sapphire back of the new est deviation among all six positions. timing machine that. proved. We then put the free to “breathe” throughout its entire watch on a Witschi Chronoscope X1. quire no lubrication. their push-pieces work ment have performed better in past tests. mined by our timing machine. the Speedmaster Co. with this movement reset function for the date. Although Daniels in- sync with the hour. the date display switch. and when it which underwent further improvement passes midnight. but it fort. the deviations within one posi. but all in all. both folding clasps add to their wearing The classic model can’t boast such The Hesalite crystal is easily scratched. and now has three functional levels es either forward or backward to keep in rather than two. grees. the watch’s accuracy. every way. can Shock absorption has also been im- measure the rate of a watch with a co. 14 tion with little effort. pinned bracelet. The Daniels’s co-axial brainchild. Rate results (10): There is too much force to set the hands on the hand. the accuracy of the hand-wound caliber movement is equipped with cam control ly easy to operate. Operation (5): The crown and push- classic model may bother someone with The amplitude also remained stable. but the difference is mini. a length. which makes a differ- SCORES plucking the little hairs on the back of ent ticking sound than a standard escape- the wearer’s wrist. which is much too high. that relies on gold washers on the inside sion. 7 ter-resistant watches) on the back of the when the chronograph was switched on. Although watches with this move. the cost-benefit simplifies to-the-second time setting. but the movements were designed to leave suffi. but the watch very sensitive skin. between the links of the bracelet 9 ent movements. 8 comfort. TOTAL: 80 POINTS new one does. and easy-to-use clasps on seconds hand when entering a new time A silicon hairspring. The seconds per day. and polished surfaces are very attractive. this en these results.WT_STI_2013_Moonwatch_03 23. Unlike earlier ETA calibers Overall value (15): Despite hefty price function: its presence in the new model that were rebuilt to accommodate increases in recent years. ward” or “fall back” an hour in the enced by magnetic fields. The embossed seahorse (the logo figure. tomatic Caliber 8500. 4 watch is quite comfortable to wear. It has scarcely can be pulled into the hand-setting posi. thermore. but it lets the a thin film of oil must in fact be applied Except for the presence or wearer reset the hour hand without to the surfaces of the escape wheel that absence of the word “Professional. It takes a bit more Omega took great pains to make Cal. day and night 5 are a good match for the no-nonsense de. Each model’s crown cannot rival that of the automatic co. tion varied significantly and the ampli. Fur. unaffected by shocks and scarcely influ. 10 points): model further enhances wearing com. the greatest deviation of segments bearing the logo are milled rate among the several positions was 19 Legibility (5): Very good legibility both from solid blocks of metal. This is sometimes a ment. axial ranks among the most accurate Case (10): The alternating satin-finished The smooth surfaces on the insides of watches we have tested. thus preventing them from axial escapement. These values scarcely changed buttons as the co-axial model. Giv. The average deviation was +3. unlike most. lacks a stop-seconds function. mal. Wearing comfort (10): Comfortable on sign of the Speedmaster. back of the wrist can become snagged Although the two models have differ. which is nearly both models are alike in zone or when it’s time to “spring for. the great.2 has the same folding clasp with safety that Omega traditionally uses for its wa. deviation among the various positions and wound model.

but plenty of value for the money. so no rapid reset for the date display is necessary. silicon hairspring and fine adjustment without an index 18 Rate results (10): Very slight deviation among the several positions. 15 Legibility (5): Very good legibility both day and night 5 Wearing comfort (10): The case is larger. The movement is particularly appealing. A stop-seconds mechanism helps you set the time with to-the-second accuracy. 12 TOTAL: 92 POINTS WatchTime Tests 2013 31 . screwed steel bracelet and folding clasp with safety buttons 8 Operation (5): Crown and push-pieces are easy to use. stable amplitude and good average deviation 10 Overall value (15): High price. The hour hand can be reset in hourly increments.08. 5 Case (10): A well-crafted case with an attractive shape.13 10:03 Seite 31 SCORES SPEEDMASTER MOONWATCH OMEGA CO-AXIAL CHRONOGRAPH Bracelet and clasp (max. 10 points): Well-constructed.WT_STI_2013_Moonwatch_03 23. but the watch is nonetheless very comfortable on the wrist. 10 Movement (20): The brand’s own well-constructed chronograph movement with refined co-axial escapement. plus a sapphire crystal and caseback 9 Design (15): The design of the classic watch has been well adapted to suit the new size.

crystal and the hand-wound movement. A Hand-wound Caliber 1861 with cam total of 54 jewels minimize friction. Its charm comes from the Hesalite horizontal coupling mechanism and the phire crystal and a sapphire caseback. its sili- magnetic fields to see Caliber 1861. There are pros iber 1861 is housed in a version with a marginal. visible through 9300 with column an aperture in the plate. Another variation de. Like all new Omega calibers. automatic Caliber umn-wheel mechanism. tages of the new model with respect to are allowed to wear when they float A more attractive variation of Cal. It contains Caliber 3313. the 9300 has been COSC certified. So which Moonwatch is a better buy? gold inlay in the engravings. The balance is coated with black chrome and the screws are also blackened. This new movement isn’t just sturdy and precise. the swinging weight here doesn’t run in a gliding bearing. which reduces positional error. a circular engraved pat. beveling (but not polishing) on graph movement enhanced with the first ness in this respect. But the classic model is just as handsome Furthermore. A curious aficionado must first remove the steel back and the thin cover that pro. but the watch nonetheless con hairspring and improved co-axial es- though it’s hidden. The new movement offers and cons on both sides. polished heads on its an automatic Frédéric Piguet chrono. to control its wheel. Even in outer space. Unlike the rotor in Caliber 8500. NASA added value not only due to the date dis- tects the movement from the effects of doesn’t authorize this model for activities play and the automatic winding. and contribute to its extremely accurate tern on its bridges. so the motions of the movement. creating a more robust construction than a conventional balance cock. and almost as easy to read. some of the edges of the bridges. The energy is continually re- plenished via a bidirectional rotor that sends power through an alternating gear train to two serially switched barrels.08. escapement and silicon hairspring complished vertically. buted in 2008. Fine ad. The classic model is significantly more closed and has less decoration. cam switching are easily seen. built. The classic shows its weak- screws. The classic is Neither an automatic bridge nor a rotor classic one because it has a different like a vintage automobile that’s still being obscures the view. it has a long power reserve: 60 hours. a sap. but atop ball bearings. The caliber’s em- bellishments are unconventional and. and generation of the co-axial escapement. Coupling is ac. Omega has designed its own decorative pattern: Geneva waves that spiral outward adorn the rotor and the bridges. capement make it genuinely innovative rhodium plating. rate results. are unadorned and the brake-lever for tion: Is the co-axial model worth a price but also of taste. The balance bridge is screwed on both ends. The answer isn’t just a question of price.WT_STI_2013_Moonwatch_03 23. an improved bracelet.  32 WatchTime Tests 2013 .13 10:03 Seite 32 COMPARATIVE TEST Two Omega Moonwatches to enhance the centering of the balance staff. wearing comfort and operation are only weightlessly in outer space. sapphire crystal and caseback. The advan. co-axial chronograph functions. they can be readily viewed through the very large pane of sapphire in the caseback. like the entire movement. The new model is clearly the stop-seconds wheel is made of plastic nearly twice as high as that of the older superior in several details and it embodies to keep wear within acceptable limits. still the only timepiece NASA astronauts tric screw and a regulator fork. model? The new model outshines the state-of-the-art technology. this caliber boasts deserves attention. it went to the moon and is justment is accomplished using an eccen. The levers Our comparative test raises this ques. which is af- fixed at only one end. switching (left) and Caliber 9300 relies on an elegant col.

WATCH_ppcoplcd1501.1 4/2/13 1:10 PM Page 1 .

13 10:10 Seite 34 Pros + An attractive variation on the classic Royal Oak design + All components are very well crafted. + Handsome.WT_STI_2013_Audemars_03 23. technically interesting manufacture caliber Cons – Setting the dive-time ring is sometimes difficult. – Expensive for a steel watch 34 WatchTime Tests 2013 .08.

08. a watch built for sport but suited for leisure.13 10:11 Seite 35 We put Audemars Piguet’s Royal Oak Offshore Diver. D BY ALEXANDER KRUPP PHOTOS BY OK-PHOTOGRAPHY WatchTime Tests 2013 35 .WT_STI_2013_Audemars_03 23. through its paces.

seconds. els include hexagonal white-gold screws Rate results: resistant to 300 meters. Switzerland bing against hard equipment or scraping Reference number: against the deck when you climb out of 15703ST.13 10:11 Seite 36 TEST Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Diver D crown can be conveniently unscrewed and easily turned.08. water enough to wear over the sleeve of a wet. Unlike a classic divers’ Flat positions 296° bezel. so. Kif shock absorption.25 mm of the deep. This makes it easier and SPECS quicker to set the zero point of the dive.6 mm. diameter = tures a watch needs to survive the rigors to its good looks is its perfectly crafted 26. date. this watch will look and feel right at Movement: Manufacture Caliber 3120. Audemars Piguet de- signed the ring so that it can rotate in two directions. with its sporty rubber strap. It also has a rotatable surfaces. 100 more than in an octagonal bezel and beautifully al. serie” textured pattern. with all the fea. In all other areas. freely home because a Royal Oak always makes oscillating Glucydur balance with eight which was launched in 2010.WT_STI_2013_Audemars_03 23. weight = 168 grams minute increments.A002CA. two threaded. special appeal is its multifaceted and im- resistant to 300 meters suit. the ring is positioned underneath the crystal and can be reset by turning the Hanging positions 250° additional crown at 10 o’clock. regulating weights. Crown right +3 The rotatable ring has single-minute Greatest deviation of rate 16 subdivisions for the first quarter-hour. real-world divers’ watch.3 which are sufficient for most practical Average amplitude: diving situations. a stylish statement – even this model. both made of white stainless-steel caseback held in place by than cold ones. soft iron inner case to protect against magnetic fields. on his left wrist. the dial displays glow in the Offshore models. stop-seconds function. IT’S BETTER SUITED for warm climates and minutes hand. It is water. Because the screwed crown prevents the rotatable ring from being inadvertent- ly repositioned. the crown is somewhat diffi- cult to reach if the owner is wearing the watch. This is another hint that this watch is meant for tropical cli- mates. flat sapphire crystal. Case: Stainless steel. mars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Diver. The ring Dimensions: Diameter = 42 mm. CH-1348 Le Brassus. The Diver also has Crown up –4 dark. Familiar features Strap and clasp: Rubber strap with watch meets the requirements expected borrowed from other Royal Oak mod- stainless-steel pronged buckle of a genuine divers’ watch. as most people do.900): the Aude. high-quality and Audemars Piguet. Also. rubber- has no extension piece to make it long Another ingredient in the Diver’s coated crowns.900 36 WatchTime Tests 2013 . 40 jewels.OO. height = 4. eight screws. height = 13. If underneath crystal de gamme price tag ($18. because the watch’s strap gold. however. AUDEMARS PIGUET ROYAL OAK OFFSHORE DIVER THE ROYAL OAK Offshore Diver is well suited for diving. automatic. as it is on all Dial down +5 dive time. is a rugged. it while sipping a cocktail on deck or din. minutes Crown down +5 and seconds have different shapes for eas. dial. Contributing 60-hour power reserve. 21. but only if the diver isn’t wearing gloves.8 mm. Crown left –1 ier reading under water. Route de France 16.01 the water? You’d probably prefer to wear Functions: Hours.600 vph. and its designated Price: $18. expensive watch to run the risk of rub. but would you really Manufacturer: Manufacture d’Horlogerie want such a handsome. The rubber ring under the ring with a luminous zero mark to set the bezel is especially thick. and its hour hand nonreflective on its inner surface. diving-time ring on’t be fooled by its chic styling and haut ing at an exclusive seaside restaurant. this peccably crafted case. clicks authoritatively into place in single. (Deviations in seconds per 24 hours) the standard 200 meters expected of ternating satin-finished and polished Dial up +12 divers’ watches. Average deviation +3. minutes. with the trademark “Mega Tapis. and the hands for hours.

WatchTime Tests 2013 37 .13 10:11 Seite 37 Self-winding Caliber 3120 is based on the hand-wound Caliber 3090.WT_STI_2013_Audemars_03 23.08.

38 WatchTime Tests 2013 .WT_STI_2013_Audemars_03 23.08. PULL OUT AND TURN. THE CROWN IS EASY TO UNSCREW.13 10:12 Seite 38 THANKS TO ITS RUBBER COVER.

is details on the dial. balance copes well with shocks and sists dust) and on its inner surface (which blows because it’s held by a bridge (which minimizes perspiration). 11 ple. is smooth as silk. 4 as a relief engraving: each letter boasts see the movement. solid rubber strap and massive. (Yet anoth. ly fine details are the tapered and pol. main crown is very convenient to use. very water resistant and easy to read at night. power reserve of 60 hours. so the overall picture is time ring. 10 points): The ward to the proper minute. The movement’s sleeved shirt or sweater because of the The movement has an unusually long construction and embellishments are impeccable. iber 3120. damage by a decoupling system. six of which are for pre-regula- TOTAL: 83 points will appeal to connoisseurs. 15 elaborately crafted caseback has no sap. excellently constructed. as will the tion and two for fine adjustment. as is resetting the date.) al winding. Winding the watch. you must remove the Wearing comfort (10): The heavy case. The strap’s styling is sleek and sim. freely oscillat- wristwatch. but this WatchTime Tests 2013 39 . ball-borne rotor. with its bidirectional. ble in the dark. however. parts are decorated. pull out and turn. Fewer of these elements are visi- more convenient to set than the dive. Wide holes in is affixed at both ends) rather than by a the strap easily accommodate the massive cock (which is affixed at only one end). ing hairspring and eight adjustable of money. whose large di- mensions make it a perfect match for the strap and the case. The es- Overall value (15): It’s plenty of finished on both their front and back sur. The watch’s large. We found a bit too much play in the hands when setting the time. Two particular. The graining on its upper surface (which re.08. 10 Design (15): A perfect translation of the THE ONLY NEGATIVE comment we can legendary Royal Oak design into a divers’ rubber covers on both crowns. but its grained center Piguet’s hand-wound Caliber 3090. the power reserve is although the wearer might have a little tion against magnetic fields provided by an impressive 60 hours. but the deviation among the large. it is hard to read the bears the words “Royal Oak Offshore” that it’s not in plain sight. the tri- no extension piece for wearing the watch partite hour hand and the textured sur- over a wetsuit. 8 face can create confusion at a quick Operation (5): The time and the date are glance. Thanks in part to its rubber cover. automatic Cal- watch. If you want to time at a quick glance. heavy case thanks to two movable ed against excessive wear or potential various positions is too high. the clever winding mecha- on the timing machine and on the wrist The strap connects seamlessly to the nism minimizes resistance and is protect- are good. although the many indices. and all bearing trouble slipping the watch under a long. prong on the stylish clasp. The make about the 278-part. 18 case’s angular construction. polished upper surfaces. but there is good. capement has an elegant. pronged The dial’s legibility is essentially very buckle are very well crafted. 8 the lugs and the even slimmer beveling screws with corresponding screws in the Movement (20): The freely oscillating on the crown protector. which is done with the crown fully ex- tracted. which is based on Audemars Legibility (5): Because of the many phire window. eight screws that hold the back in place the broad strap and the massive clasp fit ished edges along the upper surfaces of (mating threads connect each of these quite comfortably around the wrist.13 10:12 Seite 39 SCORES is not a problem if you abide by the Gold- en Rule of hand-setting. the case’s water resistance and the protec- rather than a cock. but buying it requires plenty faces. Doing so. 3 clearer: the dive time is clearly legible un- Case (10): The octagonal case is der water and the hours and minutes are multifaceted. but the solidity of its craftsmanship weights. and turn the AUDEMARS PIGUET minutes hand just slightly forward past ROYAL OAK OFFSHORE DIVER the correct time before moving it back- Strap and clasp (max. 6 brackets that are meticulously satin. If the power er sign that this watch is suited for runs down and the watch requires manu- Rate results (10): The average values milder weather. the soft-iron inner case. it is very easy to unscrew. will jeopardize Glucydur balance is borne under a bridge among the best to be found anywhere. The case is bezel).WT_STI_2013_Audemars_03 23.

Although IN-HOUSE cide that it is. too. most of which positions differed by a full 16 seconds. shore Diver. land and in the water. most people who wear this watch polishing on the bridges and plates. The rotor is another of just one second. losing 2. When the watch was visual highlight: crafted from 22k rose left motionless with its crown up. sun.WT_STI_2013_Audemars_03 23. even one the movement in our test watch didn’t with a manufacture movement. the MOVEMENT. it’s decorated with the brand’s in- THE WATCH IS strayed into the minus column. other parts our wrist test. as will be concerned primarily with the dai- well as the inset sinks for the ruby bear. during which we wore the are adorned with Geneva waves. WELL CRAFTED the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Off- Considering all this attention to de. you can be confident that it the average gain across all six positions will make an equally good impression on was a reasonably small 3. are the beveling and course. the burst patterns and various types of large Diver performed excellently. ly average. coats-of-arms of the Audemars and When deciding whether to purchase Piguet families. watch almost constantly for days. In of the screws are polished. as well as with the EXPENSIVE BUT seconds per day. But here. its rate gold. Of are done by hand.08. with a gain circular graining. The heads and the slits ations among the various positions.5 signia and logo.3 seconds.  40 WatchTime Tests 2013 . we were surprised to discover that AND HAS AN price is worth it for a steel watch. you’ll have to decide if the tail. we noticed devi- ings and screws.13 10:12 Seite 40 TEST Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Diver Noteworthy among the movement’s values in the “dial up” and “crown up” numerous decorations. If you de- run with impeccable regularity.

.

WT_STI_2013_Zenith_BD_02 23.Hard-to-read big date display .No hack mechanism .13 10:18 Seite 42 Pros + Nicely decorated in-house movement + Interesting design details + Consistent rate results + Good value Cons .Simple pronged buckle 42 WatchTime Tests 2013 .08.

BY ALEXANDER KRUPP PHOTOS BY NIK SCHÖLZEL WatchTime Tests 2013 43 .13 10:19 Seite 43 Above the Clouds Whether in the air or on the ground.WT_STI_2013_Zenith_BD_02 23. We put this high flyer through our rigorous test. the Zenith Pilot Big Date Special is always at home.08.

) The date numerals on the Pilot Big Date fill the openings so fully that they al- most touch the edges. the dial of TO USE. ments. But. Shortly thereafter the first cockpit instru. In addition. of course. which is easy marker during his 37-minute flight. with two dots. tween the minutes indices. a patented big-date display and a cult to tell apart. luminous displays. The minutes counter. However. The most important added function In 1909. Louis Blériot. contrasting white stitching. Zenith equipped some interesting changes to THE PUSHERS ARE EASY airplanes with altimeters and other avia. pilots’ of a pilots’ watch with several new ele. Special features several NOTICEABLE JUMP WHEN resistant and anti-magnetic aircraft finely calibrated tracks and THE CHRONOGAPH’S clocks in the 1930s and ’40s. the date display. traditional pilots’ watch. watch features: a black dial to limit light this watch offers is a chronograph. used a Zenith reflection. the first aviator to cross the Eng.13 10:20 Seite 44 TEST Zenith Pilot Big Date Special telemeter scale. the dial. The numeral 12 appears in al aviators. gency backup instruments for recreation. pilots’ watches serve as emer. Zenith has made ments came into use. on the dial. Zenith has placed them very close togeth- er and uses the right disk for the tens dig- it rather than the left one (see photo detail on the next spread). You can start the chronograph when you see a bolt of lightning and stop it when you hear the thunderclap – the chronograph seconds hand will show how far away the storm is in kilometers. which also makes the date difficult to read. BUT THERE IS A pilots’ watches unnecessary. functional design graph. partial-seconds markers are a little diffi- combines the historical. the right digit on our test piece was always slightly misaligned. SECONDS HAND IS STARTED. satin finish. making it hard to read. Unlike a classic pi- tion instruments that eventually made lots’. to read. incremental markers be- Today. The tens disk has rec- tangular openings through which the sin- gle digits can be seen. is at 3 o’clock. it’s bound types who like the watches’ dis.WT_STI_2013_Zenith_BD_02 23. The design is clever but it doesn't solve the age-old problem of having the disks on different levels. The watch has more features than a harder to read the chronograph seconds tinctive styling. which allows shadows to fall on the low- er disk. And purists might find fault with the different styles of type used for the date and the other numerals t the beginning of the 20th century. which calculates dis- tances by using the speed of sound. As on many Zenith watches. rather than the hour counter.08. (Several other watches in Zenith's collection use big-date displays in which both numerals are on the same level. which lish Channel. the watch has a chrono. is based on the renowned El Primero cal- wristwatch with a rotating minutes es on the case. most pilots’. The watch has typical pilots’.watch dial. is at the 6 o’clock position. watches were essential tools for aviators. To make the two large date disks as compact as possible. They tend to blend in with the black dial. but earth. and a calfskin strap with iber. place of the usual triangle watch fans aren’t pilots at all. This is especially true at 44 WatchTime Tests 2013 . Zenith was the Zenith Pilot Big Date also a major supplier of temperature. However. In addition to hand because the seconds markers and The Zenith Pilot Big Date Special the time display.

Rue des Billodes 34-36. sapphire crystal caseback with four screws.600 WatchTime Tests 2013 45 . chronograph. diameter = 30 mm. height = 13.WT_STI_2013_Zenith_BD_02 23.000 vph.8 mm. weight = 91 g Variations: Milanese steel bracelet and folding clasp ($7. 31 jewels.4010/21. chronograph with 30-minute counter.65 mm Case: Stainless steel.13 10:20 Seite 45 SPECS ZENITH PILOT BIG DATE SPECIAL Manufacturer: Zenith International SA. curved sapphire crystal with nonreflective coating on both sides. minutes. small seconds. height = 7. Glucydur balance. 50-hour power reserve. CH-2400 Le Locle.08.2410. water resistant to 50 meters Strap and clasp: Hand-sewn calfskin strap with stainless-steel pronged buckle Rate results: (Deviations in seconds per 24 hours) With chronograph switched off/on Dial up +5 / +5 Dial down +2 / +2 Crown up +2 / +1 Crown down +4 / +6 Crown left +5 / +3 Crown right +1 / +3 Greatest deviation of rate 4/5 Average deviation +3.C722 Functions: Hours.3 Average amplitude: Flat positions 283° / 269° Hanging positions 264° / 245° Dimensions: Diameter = 42 mm.700) Price: $7. automatic. regulator with eccentric fine adjustment. Kif shock absorber. big date Movement: In-house movement El Primero 4010.2 / +2. 36. Switzerland Reference number: 03.

Light and dark areas over the the dark. transition from the sides to the back. instead of the usual four − which indicates that the process was done by out the crown. 46 WatchTime Tests 2013 . thanks to the Super-LumiNova out easily without using your fingernail. the words “Swiss Made. THANKS TO THE SUPER- ished. The crown turns comfortably. The spaces be- tween the lugs are also polished. and pol. where the seconds The finishing process for the lugs re. (With an markers were shortened to accommodate quires an additional step. This makes it to the 1/10-second. The openings for the “ones” digits are visible through the dial aperture. The case is quite attractive. The pushers are easy to use. The time is actually easier to read in You can pull the large fluted crown aged. strap has been treated to appear well al. The material glows with an intense green color all night. shaped pushers. The central hour and minutes hands is a noticeable jump when the chrono. but there impossible to set the time exactly. a recessed area for the crown. What you notice first is that the enough contrast with the matte black di. any you set the time at the first pulled-out tal markers are essential for El Primero sharp edges on the lugs are rounded off. the bottom of the dial. unlike with most. due in THE TIME IS ACTUALLY EASIER TO READ part to the polished facets on its lugs. brown calfskin leather give the appear- that covers the hands partially and the hour numerals completely. IN THE DARK. When you pull hertz. but this merely lack of a hack mechanism. position and the date at the fully extend- watches because they show the high oscil. the strap can also be difficult to read: the narrow graph’s seconds hand is started.) The only drawback is the lating frequency of this movement – five peared slightly irregular. these areas ap. Like the rest of the watch. The subdials remain dark.” The incremen. the small seconds at 9 enables the watch to measure increments hand and should not be seen as a flaw. o’clock continues to run. LUMINOVA ON THE HANDS AND NUMERALS. ed position. pusher works smoothly. At the point of El Primero movement.WT_STI_2013_Zenith_BD_02 23.08. Resetting combines good design and attractive de- ruthenium-coated hands do not offer both chronograph hands with the bottom tails. On the watch we tested.13 10:20 Seite 46 TEST Zenith Pilot Big Date Special Zenith’s patented big date display has two date disks.

WT_STI_2013_Zenith_BD_02 23.08.13 10:20 Seite 47

The El Primero 4010 chronograph
movement is visible beneath a
perfectly sized sapphire caseback.

SCORES
ZENITH PILOT BIG DATE SPECIAL
Strap and clasp (max. 10 points):
The simple pronged buckle is a good
match for the nice calfskin strap but is
not well finished. 7
Operation (5): The crown and pushers
are easy to use but the lack of a hack
mechanism makes it impossible to set
the time precisely. 4
Case (10): The case has a nicely detailed
design and solid finishes. 8
Design (15): Pleasing variety of
attractive details but hard-to-read
big date display 11
Legibility (5): Numerous complicated
displays are difficult to read with low
contrast between the hands and dial.
Legibility is better at night. 3
Wearing comfort (10): The case fits the
wearer’s wrist almost as perfectly as the
supple strap and pronged buckle. 9
Movement (20): The nicely decorated
classic movement was improved with a
big date display that takes the place of
the hour counter. 16
Rate results (10): The average gain, maxi-
mum deviation in different positions and
amplitude drop between the horizontal
and vertical positions were all low. 9
Value (15): The watch is well priced for
a manufacture chronograph with a big
date display 13
TOTAL: 80 POINTS

WatchTime Tests 2013 47

WT_STI_2013_Zenith_BD_02 23.08.13 10:20 Seite 48

TEST
Zenith Pilot Big Date Special

The strap is hand sewn but
the stamped buckle has only
a simple bent prong.

ance of a patina. Under closer examina-
tion, we noticed other features that we
liked. The strap is attached to the case
with heavy and very sturdy spring bars. It
is hand sewn and has moisture-resistant
rubber underneath that will greatly ex-
tend its life. Its separate layers are fully
glued to ensure that no wrinkles form
when the strap is bent. However, the var-
nish on the cut edges of our test watch’s
strap began to flake off at the transition
to the top layer after only a few days.
(This did not occur during any of our pre-
vious Zenith watch tests.)
We also found that the simple,
stamped buckle was not well finished. We
don’t mind a pronged buckle, but this one
could have been constructed with a bit
more detail. First, we would have liked to
see a milled prong instead of simply bend-
ing the metal around the spring bar. The
nicely polished finish on both sides of the
buckle is attractive, but a satin-finished
or matte buckle would have been a better
match for the matte finish of the case.
While the execution of the strap and
clasp is not perfect, the wearing comfort
of the watch is very good. The strap is
sturdy but supple and the clasp lies flat
against the wrist.
Looking at all of its features, we like
the Zenith Pilot Big Date Special and
found minor flaws rather than any major
faults. Its strength lies in the collection of
many appealing details, from the watch
itself to its strap. A further advantage is
its good value – we would expect a Swiss
manufacture chronograph with a big date
to cost more than $7,600, the price of this
watch. 

48 WatchTime Tests 2013

WATCH_ppcoplcd3345.1 8/21/13 12:34 PM Page 1

Terrasport I Chronograph
This chronograph represents a new addition to the Terrasport family by Mühle-Glashütte. It combines
the timeless instrument look with the well-proven qualities of Mühle chronographs. The design

For more information please contact:

Mühle-Glashütte USA p 727-896-8453 p www.muehle-glashuette.de

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WT_STI_2013_Panerai_02 23.08.13 10:25 Seite 50

The Luminor 1950 3 Days 47 mm is a near-
replica of a coveted vintage Panerai. Inside,
though, is a new in-house movement. How do
case and caliber fare under our close scrutiny?

BY JENS KOCH
PHOTOS BY MARCUS KRÜGER, HAMBURG

Pros
+ Attractive design
+ Very good legibility
+ Manufacture movement
with long power reserve

Cons
– Plexiglas soon becomes
scratched.
– Mediocre rate results

WT_STI_2013_Panerai_02 23.13 10:26 Seite 51 WatchTime Tests 2013 51 .08.

The case is milled and very well Crown left -5 crafted. 21 jewels. The movement has 160 components. CH-2000 Neuchâtel. protector. Caliber P.3000. is a two-handed watch with a hand-wound movement. 21. diameter = 37. The luminous material used for the dial. Caliber P. however. Crown down -3 tector.5 with the original (and other early Panerai watches). steel pronged buckle Unlike the original. The balance sits beneath a sturdy balance bridge. the PAM 372 contains Panerai’s new in-house (Deviations in seconds per 24 hours) movement. 1955) SPECS PANERAI LUMINOR 1950 3 DAYS 47 MM Manufacturer: Officine Panerai. and the watch crystal is made of Plexiglas.3 mm thick and has a screwed balance. crown with arc-shaped is a tribute to a much-sought-after vintage Panerai watch.3000. it looks very much like the case of the original model. including 21 jewels. but they are very practical because they ensure the movement’s stability. which height = 16. minutes Movement: Hand-wound manufacture Caliber P. height = 5. Reference PAM 372. water resistant to 100 meters erence 6152/1. Crown right +8 As with the original. which enhances the dial’s vintage appearance. It is 5.13 10:26 Seite 52 TEST Panerai Luminor 1950 3 Days 47 mm The PAM 372 (left) and its predecessor.3000 is a large 16 lignes in diameter. 72-hour power reserve Case: Stainless steel. are gold-plated. One of them sits above the gear 52 WatchTime Tests 2013 .2 mm in diameter. The hands.600 vph. Glucydur balance. With Dial down +3 thicker lugs and a more emphatically cushion-shaped middle piece. Like that model. the PAM 372. stainless- 2011. Incabloc shock absorption. conceal much of the movement. And. with a frequency of 21. is light Price: $10. the PAM 372 case is entirely polished but for the crown pro. nonreflective Plexiglas crystal. screwed back with he Panerai Luminor 1950 3 Days 47 mm. The watch’s other bridges.400 brown.08. which are quite large. the words “Luminor Panerai” have Greatest deviation of rate 13 been engraved on the dial rather than merely printed. It is Panerai’s 10th in-house movement since the brand began making its own movements in 2005.WT_STI_2013_Panerai_02 23. Ref. which is satin finished. which had a movement made by Rolex Rate results: (Caliber 618). 13. have been modified: those on Hanging positions 236° the earlier watch were solid brass. but those on the new model Dimensions: Diameter = 47 mm. rue de la Balance 4.5 mm.600 vph. Dial up +7 Panerai has designed a “new” case for the PAM 372. the case Average amplitude: number is inscribed between the lower lugs and the reference Flat positions 264° number between the upper lugs. Like Crown up +5 it.2 mm. weight = 144 g has the brand’s famous “sandwich” construction. introduced in Strap and clasp: Cowhide strap. as Average deviation +2.3 mm. sapphire window. Switzerland Reference number: PAM00372 Functions: Hours. Reference T 6152/1 (ca. the same size as the Rolex 618.

08.WT_STI_2013_Panerai_02 23.13 10:27 Seite 53 WatchTime Tests 2013 53 .

5 Case (10): The designers emulated the historical model with tremendous fidelity to detail. 16 Rate results (10): Large deviations among the various positions prevent us from giving a higher score. 10 points): The pronged buckle and the strap are well crafted. but the Plexiglas crystal is susceptible to scratches. brightly luminescent hands and markers. SCORES PANERAI LUMINOR 1950 3 DAYS 47 MM Strap and clasp (max. has a long power reserve and can be finely adjusted without a regulator. 8 Design (15): A beautifully simple watch has been re-created. The craftsmanship is excellent. 8 Operation (5): The crown protector doesn’t interfere with the crown’s operation. The unostentatious decorations are a good match for this watch’s simple design.08.13 10:27 Seite 54 TEST Panerai Luminor 1950 3 Days 47 mm The special shape of the prong ensures that the strap won’t be bent too severely and suffer damage. and the prong is cleverly shaped to prevent the thick strap from being bent too severely. 4 Wearing comfort (10): Despite its size. 12 TOTAL: 83 POINTS 54 WatchTime Tests 2013 . its in-house movement and its demonstrated ability to hold or increase its value over time (partly due to the watch’s limited availability) justify its rather high price. but the average deviation is good and the amplitude is adequate.3000 is robust. 9 Movement (20): Well-engineered Caliber P. this watch is very comfortable on the wrist. 6 Overall value (15): The watch’s craftsmanship.WT_STI_2013_Panerai_02 23. 15 Legibility (5): Nothing interferes with the legibility of the large. The hour hand can be con- veniently reset in hourly increments.

as are the edges of the position. The rims of the sinks for the and change time zones. The Our timing machine revealed a mixed picture of the move. WatchTime Tests 2013 55 . The most noticeable embellish. A hole drilled in the onds for the greatest deviation of rate among the various posi- latter enables a watchmaker to slacken the mainsprings via the tions. and. Caliber P. crown out to its first position. The bridges have arabesque-like contours. as it rotates. you can reset the hour hand with- tion also has an old-time look. ment. This way you can adjust the ment is a tastefully unostentatious finish applied in precisely the watch quickly for Daylight Savings Time or when you travel same direction on all three bridges. Nostalgically minded purists might protest that the new only after some time had passed. beveled edges aren’t polished. 3-day power reserve also deserves praise. The average deviation across watch should have the same power reserve as the old one did. 6152/1 with Angelus movements that had 8-day power reserves. The amplitude in the hanging position was an acceptable ratchet. (Panerai ultimately replaced the Rolex calibers in its tremes were +8 and –5 seconds per day.13 10:27 Seite 55 Equipped with a balance bridge and two other large bridges. and the movement’s decora. but there but we’re more practically minded so we applaud this improve- were large differences among the individual positions.WT_STI_2013_Panerai_02 23. By pulling the crown out to its second screws and the jewels are beveled. you can set the minutes hand.5 seconds per day. all positions was a satisfactory +2. 236 degrees. The ex.08. but only very precisely milled. out affecting the minutes hand. the bridges. It takes a strong loupe and good eyesight to see that the hour hand. which resulted in 13 sec. Rolex caliber in the 6152/1 had a power reserve of just 36 ment’s performance: irregularities in the rate became apparent hours.3000 is designed to be sturdy. train and the other above the two barrels. in keeping with The movement has a useful feature: when you pull the the watch’s overall vintage flavor. The long.

remained unchanged: “Officine Panerai Brevettato. It’s not at all easy to cause the crosspiece is screwed between each pair of lugs. The watchmaker who helped us with this test suggested 9 o’clock. These watches are easy to recognize by the seconds subdials at moved.) that a bit of screw adhesive on the threading would have been a We feel the same way about the transparent back. are milled and tato” is Italian for “patented. especially because this special glue continues it’s true and also quite surprising that Panerai first introduced to serve its purpose even after the threaded fasteners have been transparent backs as early as 1956.400. Many people who wore Plexiglas backs. crosspieces that attach the strap to the case have thick outer The PAM 372 sells for $10. but even that seems like A screwdriver is also included. 372s sell for more than new ones.08. The strap is quite stiff. The screwed the original.13 10:27 Seite 56 TEST Panerai Luminor 1950 3 Days 47 mm The arching crown protector is the Luminor’s most distinctive feature. Though welcome addition. as on thanks mostly to the low positioning of the lugs. The prong is shaped so that it barely bends the The watch is quite comfortable to wear despite its size.000. The watch comes with an but a shelf-warmer: Panerai is making 3. The get your hands on this model. The clasp is satin finished. as was initially announced). But the price is justified thick. which is quite broad.500 of these watches additional leather strap that is lighter in color and more supple. (not 3. which has pale contrasting stitching by the high quality of all the watch’s components and the well- and no lacquer along its sides.” (“Brevet. a drop in the bucket compared to demand. It’s easy to change the strap be.  56 WatchTime Tests 2013 . for a watch with a hand-wound movement. no date display. second-hand PAM crosspiece of the buckle is also screwed and can be easily re. watches with Angelus calibers. That’s a tall stack of coins bushings for greater security.WT_STI_2013_Panerai_02 23. they were only used on screwed and unscrewed numerous times.”) very well made. The clasp and the prong. strap when inserted in a hole. no The watch’s vintage appearance is underscored by a very seconds hand and no sapphire crystal. Furthermore. but engineered Panerai caliber. As a result. this model is anything nonetheless comfortable on the wrist. reddish-brown strap. but the old Angelus-fitted models had watch: it’s curved rather than straight. The engraving on the ring in the caseback has the 6152/1 bent the buckles so they would be less likely to snag. The back of the PAM 372 is The strap buckle is different than the one on the original made of sapphire crystal.

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13 10:35 Seite 58 One of the most intricate pilots’ watches ever made.WT_STI_2013_IWC_03 23. PFlane this version of the IWC Big Pilot’s Watch incorporates a cockpit rarity. BY JENS KOCH PHOTOS BY NIK SCHÖLZEL and anc y 58 WatchTime Tests 2013 . See how the watch fared in our test. a perpetual calendar.08.

13 10:36 Seite 59 y Pros + Very attractive design + Scratch-resistant ceramic case + Sophisticated perpetual calendar Cons – The calendar displays are hard to read. – High price WatchTime Tests 2013 59 .WT_STI_2013_IWC_03 23.08.

WT_STI_2013_IWC_03 23.13 10:36 Seite 60 TEST IWC Big Pilot’s Watch Perpetual Calendar Top Gun The large ceramic case has a matte sheen. 60 WatchTime Tests 2013 . The ceramic case is highly resistant to scratches.08.

calendar because if you inadvertently advance it past the current With its many hands and scales. the crown stops the seconds hand so you can set the it takes him to read all of the calendar displays on the dial. which include an unusual four-digit year display. In its first position. week always remain in sync with the rest of the calendar. it measures 1. In its second endar Top Gun: a prudent pilot wouldn’t fly blind for as long as position. the dial looks a little like the date. which is quite substantial. The case is 2 mm wider than that of the already massive. however. Even the big titanium crown will stay far enough away from the back of your hand if you wear this watch rela. it sur- vived an ordeal in a centrifuge where it was subjected to 30 Gs. is familiar: recommend. When you first slip this mammoth watch onto your wrist. We The movement. But even IWC doubts that one of these fighter pilots would wear this costly watch for flying: this mod- el has no protection against magnetic fields and its crystal isn’t secured against sudden low pressure (unlike the Top Gun Pilot’s Chronograph).13 10:36 Seite 61 “P The colorful Top Gun logo of the United States Navy Fighter Weapons School is printed on a window of sapphire in the titanium caseback. a force 30 times greater than the earth’s gravitational pull. Sintered in a kiln at 2. revived by IWC dicators. But be- cause it’s so comfortable to wear. CORRECTOR BUTTONS: tively high up on your wrist. The silky. The only reme- instrument panel in an airplane cockpit. This means that an aviator could trigger his ejector seat and para- chute to the ground without worrying about damaging his lease pay attention to the other instruments in the cockpit. IWC has built the watch to be tough and resilient: during the quality control process.” watch. 46- mm Big Pilot’s Watch. Nevertheless. WatchTime Tests 2013 61 . and elements of IWC’s Top Gun line – a special ceram. The moon-phase dis. you’ll have passed the point of no return. you might feel as if you’re equipping yourself THE PERPETUAL CALENDAR with an altimeter. the manufacture Caliber 51614. it can be The watch was released at the 2012 SIHH show in Geneva. matte black case is made of a high-performance IT IS ADJUSTED ENTIRELY ceramic called zirconium oxide. grees C. IWC’s ad for its Big Pilot’s Watch says. This is especially good The crown. or to less-steel disk that works well with the overall color scheme – take the watch to a watchmaker. white on black with red accents.000 de. you’ll soon get used to the very MECHANISM HAS NO large size. time with to-the-second precision. cleverest detail here is that the lunar phase and the day of the ic case and a black textile strap. lightweight and won’t irritate sensitive skin. this material is so hard that it can be worked only with diamond-tipped tools.WT_STI_2013_IWC_03 23. is easy to unscrew.200 on the Vickers scale. The in 2002. Most important of all. advice for someone wearing the Big Pilot’s Watch Perpetual Cal. THROUGH THE CROWN. even if you’re wearing gloves. The ceramic material is antimagnetic. like the kind worn by a parachutist. rare on a sports watch. until the date shown on its display matches the actual date. used to rapidly set the date display and all the other calendar in- It combines the Pilot’s Watch design from 1940. dy is either to leave the watch lying unworn without winding it play. pull out and turn.08. consists of a satin-finished stain. that you resist the urge to play with the it also powers IWC’s elegant Portuguese Perpetual Calendar. which makes it six times more scratch resistant than stainless steel.

21. will not be a leap year. perpetual calendar with date. Average amplitude: endar. one useful addition. pears or disappears behind two semicircular parts of the dial.” called “secular” years. Underneath the windows. fully threaded AN ACCEPTABLE RATE. (Conventional moon-phase displays usually show the some pocketwatch movements. small seconds. height = 9. and have seven-day power re- moon’s phases using a black disk with two white moons that ap.8 mm. diameter = 37.600 vph. but twice. IWC’s moon-phase indicator boasts another special feature: it shows the moon not once. sapphire crystal is non- reflective on both sides. it was achieved simply by adding a sec. Average deviation +4. which is specially shaped so the moon ap.08. water resistant to 60 meters Strap and clasp: Textile strap. CH-8201 Schaffhausen. even though it is divisible by four. THE GREATEST DEVIATION automatic. 577 years will Price: $38.” indicate which moon is with the rest of the dial. 29 to March 1. ond window. four-digit year and moon phase Movement: Manufacture Caliber 51614. because the cal- endar is adjusted entirely via the crown. instrument-like styling. it will run correctly without manual inter. This display is not subdials.) dates back to 1985. the size of moon. Both calibers are about 38 mm in diameter. there’s a rotating disk Caliber 51614 is based on Caliber 5000. The display’s appearance certainly harmonizes marked “N” and the other marked “S. Two airplanes. the advantages of the perpetual calendar outweigh Crown down +2 this drawback.13 10:36 Seite 62 TEST IWC Big Pilot’s Watch Perpetual Calendar Top Gun SPECS IWC BIG PILOT’S WATCH PERPETUAL CALENDAR TOP GUN Manufacturer: IWC Schaffhausen. which. devel- pear in a window. minutes. this one takes into Crown left +1 account the lengths of all the months and switches correctly in Crown right +7 leap years from Feb.) The moon phase is so Dimensions: Diameter = 48 mm. screwed titanium crown. which debuted in with two black circles that represent the dark portion of the 2000. Flat positions 303° (Years that end in “00. at least. accurate that it deviates from astronomical reality by only 12 height =16 mm. there are no unattrac- tive corrector buttons on the case. 62 jewels. stainless-steel folding clasp Rate results: (Deviations in seconds per 24 hours) Dial up +7 Dial down +6 Crown up +4 However. Switzerland Reference number: IW502902 Functions: Hours. Concentric grooves surround the two for which hemisphere (the moon’s phases on any given day are moons. day. Like all perpetual calendars.WT_STI_2013_IWC_03 23. power-reserve display. oped by IWC’s former chief movement designer. when IWC launched its Da Vinci chrono- 62 WatchTime Tests 2013 . Baumgartenstrasse 15. as it appears in both the It’s up to the wearer to decide if this double moon phase is a Northern and Southern Hemispheres. seven-day power reserve POSITIONS WAS SIX SECONDS. there are similar grooved perimeters around the other the same in both hemispheres. weight =142 g seconds per lunar month: theoretically. Glucydur AMONG THE VARIOUS balance. And like nearly all other Greatest deviation of rate 6 perpetual calendars. serves.5 vention until 2100. And. Incabloc shock absorption.1 mm. due to a quirk in the Gregorian cal.600 pass before it requires manual correction. Case: Ceramic. Kurt Klaus. but inverted). are not leap Hanging positions 267° years unless they are divisible by 400. month. Caliber 51614’s perpetual calendar mechanism. titanium back. The overall effect is a good match for the watch’s a technical innovation.

WT_STI_2013_IWC_03 23.08.13 10:36 Seite 63 The folding clasp is made of bead-blasted stainless steel and is a good match for this watch’s professional-pilot look. WatchTime Tests 2013 63 .

a hard to read at first glance. silky. when the energy level is low. quite accurately adjusted: the gain The watch incorporates IWC’s Pellaton winding system.) By perpetual calendar. The finishing isn’t the time Caliber 51614 debuted in the Portuguese Perpetual quite as thorough as one would expect in a haute horlogerie watch. had been upgraded to its current level of precision. two pawls that turn a ratchet wheel. the watch TOTAL: 84 POINTS stops automatically after seven days. against the back of its wearer’s hand if the watch is worn low on the wrist. Despite the skeletonized rotor and truncated numerals. 10 points): The textile strap with inner leather and bead-blasted steel clasp is neatly crafted and secure. an interesting graph perpetual calendar. in 2003. this gigantic watch is surprisingly comfort- able to wear. 8 Movement (20): The well-engineered manufacture movement offers a very long power reserve. in wasn’t too large and the amplitude was which a rotor. 5 Case (10): The well-crafted. (In that watch.08. borne on springs for better shock resistance. perpetual calendar is never inexpensive. the time is easy to pawl winding. with it. 18 Calendar. Ruby rollers run along the moving cam. turns strong. 9 its last day of running.WT_STI_2013_IWC_03 23. 8 a cam.13 10:36 Seite 64 SCORES IWC BIG PILOT’S PERPETUAL CALENDAR TOP GUN Strap and clasp (max. The energy so produced could keep the watch running for eight and despite the watch’s high quality. 9 Design (15): Some will like the truncated hour numerals. the days. the moon-phase display on Klaus’s original module. the perpetual calendar needs no corrector buttons. others won’t. The soft inner leather in the strap deserves some credit for this fact. the calendar module winding mechanism and a sophisticated was paired with a modified ETA 7750 chronograph caliber. matte ceramic case has an impressively scratch- resistant surface . 14 Legibility (5): The calendar displays are With a big balance. 4 offers plenty of fine details Wearing comfort (10): Except for the for a connoisseur to crown. which was off by an unprecedented one day every 122 Rate results (10): The tested watch was years. the gigantic manufacture movement read day and night. 9 Operation (5): The large screwed crown is easy to pull out to quickly reset the date and to stop the seconds hand. but the numerous displays are as appropriate to the style of a pilots’ watch as are the black case and the textile strap. but because the movement would become less precise on price is too high. setting in motion Overall value (15): Even though a a lever system and. 64 WatchTime Tests 2013 . which can press uncomfortably admire.

as are the heads of the screws. Date-switching lever Date wheel Month-program wheel HOW THE PERPETUAL CALENDAR WORKS The date wheel.600. The edges of flat components are neither beveled nor polished.WT_STI_2013_IWC_03 23. and the sides of the gears’ teeth are polished. which advances the year disk. Probus Scafusia (Latin for “good solid craftsmanship from Schaffhausen”). http://www. although What other instruments?  they are hidden behind the opaque caseback.08. If the date-switching lever’s pawl falls off the cam at the end of the month. As IWC’s ad says. on the right side of the mechanism. IWC’s own Portuguese Perpetual Calendar in gold Fine adjustment without a regulator allows the Breguet hair. instrument-like styling. part of our coverage of ward so that March 1 follows Feb. watches from IWC. At the end this year’s SIHH watch fair in Geneva. also an acceptable value. the shorter the month. bears 30 teeth and turns one increment forward each day.watchtime. A wavy pattern adorns the bridges. “Please pay attention to the other instruments in the cockpit. means of four tiny square-headed screws on the balance wheel. WatchTime Tests 2013 65 . six seconds. High price will not dissuade you if you’ve become infatuat- The watch we tested performed with strong amplitude and a ed with the watch’s cool. could buy a midsized Mercedes eccentric screws on the spokes and then finely adjusted by or an Audi. 29 in a leap year. calendar has been well integrated with the Big Pilot’s design and chine. with the same movement sells for less than this watch.com/ of the month.13 10:37 Seite 65 TEST IWC Big Pilot’s Watch Perpetual Calendar Top Gun The large two-spoke balance was pre-regulated via two The watch’s price. the steel parts are satin finished. However.” This movement has several attractive decorations. embossed in gold. The large date-switching lever scans the periphery of the month- program wheel. $38. The greatest deviation among the various positions was the result is a very attractive cockpit watch. the wheels bear a sunburst pattern. The perpetual low average deviation of +4. the date-switching lever’s Scan here to read about more new pilots’ second ratchet moves the corresponding number of days for. which has 48 notches: the deeper the notch.5 seconds per day on the timing ma. spring to breathe freely. a long tooth on the date wheel also advances ?attachment_id=21482 the month-program wheel. but few watches can be compared with this one. a factor that significantly reduced the amount of manual labor required. The skeletonized rotor has IWC and the company’s motto.

08.WT_STI_2013__Longines_03 23.13 13:03 Seite 66 Group 66 WatchTime Tests 2013 .

WT_STI_2013__Longines_03 23.08.13 13:03 Seite 67

Effort
BY ALEXANDER LINZ
PHOTOS BY OK-PHOTOGRAPHY

Longines’s
Column Wheel
Chronograph
contains a
movement made
especially for the
brand by ETA, its
sister company in
the Swatch Group.

Pros
+ State-of-the-art chronograph
caliber
+ Near-perfect rate results
+ Attractive price

Cons
– Loose chronograph pushers
– Sharp lug edges
– Corrector button for setting
the date is too small.

WT_STI_2013_066_Longines_03 06.09.13 16:24 Seite 68

TEST
Longines Column Wheel Chronograph

OUR TEST WATCH OPERATED
VERY SMOOTHLY, BUT THERE
WAS EXCESSIVE PLAY IN BOTH
CHRONO PUSHERS.

SPECS
LONGINES COLUMN WHEEL
CHRONOGRAPH

Manufacturer: Compagnie des Montres
Longines, Francillon SA, CH-2610 Saint-
Imier, Switzerland
Reference Number: L2.733.4.72.2
Functions: Hours, minutes, small seconds,
date, chronograph with 12-hour and
TA is well known for its expertise in creating reliable chrono- 30-minute counters, hack mechanism
graph movements. Its Caliber A08.231, developed especially for Movement: Longines L688.2 (ETA
the Longines watch brand (both ETA and Longines are owned A08.231), automatic; diameter = 30 mm;
by the Swatch Group) is a column-wheel chronograph move- height = 7.9 mm; 27 jewels; Swiss pallet
escapement; Glucydur balance; self-
ment. It was unveiled in 2009 and later incorporated into sever-
compensating Nivarox 1 flat hairspring;
al Longines models, including reference L2.2.733.4.72.2, which 28,800 vph (4 Hz); Incabloc shock
was launched in 2010 and is the subject of this test. In designing absorber; lift angle = 53°; unidirectional
the caliber, which is used exclusively by Longines (the move- rotor with heavy metal segment; single
ment is also known by its Longines designation, L688.2), ETA barrel; 54-hour power reserve
engineers combined several features from other ETA move- Case: Tripartite, stainless-steel case with
ments: a reliable unidirectional winding mechanism, a Nivarox snap-on sapphire caseback and standard
escapement with a balance that vibrates at 28,800 vph, a quick crown and pushers; sapphire crystal with
date adjustment with pusher at 10 o’clock, and an oscillating nonreflective coating on one surface;
water resistant to 300 meters
pinion – a mobile shaft with two pinions at the ends that con-
nects the gear train and the chronograph mechanism. The dial- Strap and clasp: Crocodile strap with
stainless-steel buckle
side end of the oscillating pinion meshes permanently with the
Rate results: (Deviation in seconds per
fourth wheel of the movement; only after the start pusher is
24 hours, without/with chronograph
pushed will the clutch lever cause the lower pinion to mesh with switched on):
the teeth of the chrono-runner.
Dial up 0 -0.5
The L688.2 incorporates features that make it more efficient
Dial down +3 +3
and easier to service than some existing ETA chronograph
movements. In contrast to them, the L688.2 has pushers that act Crown up +1 +2
directly on the corresponding start, stop and reset mechanisms. Crown down +1 0
And the two-arm reset hammer (pivoting on the reset lever) Crown left +2 +2
for the chronograph hand and minutes counter is now self- Crown right +1 0
adjusting. Greatest deviation 3 3.5
Average deviation +1 +1
STARTING THE chronograph begins by pressing the pusher at
Average amplitude:
the 2 o’clock position to activate the shortened operating lever.
Flat positions 311° 297°
(Earlier versions had a relatively long lever.) After the rotation
to the right is complete, the column-wheel jumper holds the col- Hanging positions 285° 268°
umn wheel in this position. At the same time, the tip of the Dimensions: Diameter = 39 mm,
height = 13 mm, weight = 102 g
clutch lever pointed towards the wheel falls between two
columns and the entire lever moves slightly to the right. A pin on Price: $2,850

68 WatchTime Tests 2013

WT_STI_2013__Longines_03 23.08.13 13:04 Seite 69

the other end controls the clutch lever, moving it in a clockwise lifts the tip of the clutch lever again, which causes the clutch
direction, while the end of the clutch lever moves counterclock- lever to move slightly counterclockwise and then allows it to
wise. This is where we find the bearing of the oscillating pinion. move clockwise again. The oscillating pinion lifts away from the
It moves slightly to the right and allows the oscillating pinion chrono-runner. Simultaneously, the two locks come in contact
(driven by the fourth wheel) to mesh with the chrono-runner. As with the hour counter and the chrono-runner. This stops the
it does, the mechanism releases the lock for the hour counter chronograph mechanism and the elapsed time can be read from
and the chrono-runner, and the chronograph begins to run. An the watch dial. Pressing the pusher at 2 o’clock again will restart
intermediate wheel links the chrono-runner with the wheel for the process and make it possible to add an additional time
the minutes counter at 3 o’clock, which also begins to move. interval to the first.
The lifting of the lock also allows the hand of the hour counter The watch has no flyback function; you can reset the
at 6 o’clock, which is traditionally driven directly by the barrel, chronograph only by pushing the start-stop button at 2 o’clock
to gradually move. Pressing the pusher at 2 o’clock again caus- and then pushing the return-to-zero button at 4 o’clock. Doing
es the column wheel to turn back to the right. The next column so starts the following sequence: three reset cams, mounted on

Caliber L688.2 is a
modern chronograph
movement with
a column-wheel
mechanism. Its
decoration and finishes
are in line with this
watch’s price class.

WatchTime Tests 2013 69

One of these moves the long reset lever for requires use of special tool (included). 3 released by the column wheel as described above. one-piece reset hammer for bright and low light. For its price class. form the basis of the reset mechanism. will the reset hammers return to their initial position and the locks be reactivated. The pressure point – which you feel when you of watch at an attractively low price. should fall in the gap between Design (15): The classic-looking dial has two columns. classic look. During the re- Wearing comfort (10): Its diameter set process the two locks are lifted. The hammers’ surfaces easy to set the time. are nicely finished. the watch showed results that rival caused by the rocking action of the cam system gives the process those of a radio-controlled watch. If. Date adjustment via between the hands lie along the flat. On the the lugs detract from the otherwise end near the column wheel there is also a safety interlock which. since the load exerted by the clutch process is dis- results and exceptional amplitudes in tributed over six rotating columns as opposed to only two every position. two-armed reset hammer attached to pushers and the sharp lower edges on the end for the chronograph hand and minutes counter. 8 counters. Less satisfying was the 70 WatchTime Tests 2013 . Movement (20): ETA developed this Longines’s decision to use a column wheel rather than a tra- state-of-the-art chronograph movement exclusively for Longines. ditional cam system to control the chronograph functions has it is nicely decorated and finished. Smoothly operating but little contrast turn the cams so that at the end of the reset process the flat edges chrono pushers. 6 when the reset pusher is pressed. the reset no striking features. 12 mechanism will be blocked in order to prevent an unintentional Legibility (5): Good under normal operating error by the watch’s wearer. Only after the reset pusher is (39 mm).WT_STI_2013__Longines_03 23. with the pinions of the chronograph hand and minutes and hour its Longines logo. A new innova- Case (10): The looseness of the start-stop tion is the self-adjusting.13 13:04 Seite 70 TEST Longines Column Wheel Chronograph THE RATE RESULTS SHOWED ONLY MARGINAL DEVIATIONS FROM ZERO WHETHER THE CHRONO WAS RUNNING OR NOT. nicely finished case. Limited luminous the hour counter.” 13 push the chronograph buttons – is exactly what one would ex- TOTAL: 80 POINTS pect from a high-quality chronograph. 10 a smoother and more comfortable feel when you press the start- stop and reset pushers. 15 both visual and technical advantages.08. hammers press on the cams. however. tivate the hammers. 9 tion. The column wheel is cre- ated in a complicated milling process that ensures less wear than Rate results (10): Near-perfect rate a cam system. Two operating levers ac- push-button. 4 the chronograph hand and the minutes counter. SCORES LONGINES COLUMN WHEEL CHRONOGRAPH Strap and clasp (max. which is too small and and dial colors. There’s another advantage: the lack of a shearing force graph is running. During the wearing test. set process. top side of the cams. but only when the reset mechanism has been material. The second operating lighting conditions but less legible under lever presses directly on the shorter. 10 points): The crocodile strap and the buckle. a column is at this position. even when the chrono- points. During the re- The dial has a Operation (5): A fluted crown makes it refined. and the chronograph hand returns to its starting posi- this chronograph comfortable to wear. Overall value (15): Once the minor weaknesses of its case have been WE COULD CERTAINLY appreciate the smooth operation of corrected we will be able to call it “a lot our test watch. thinness and light weight make released.

The overall feel of the case should also be mentioned. Both fea- tures – the pushers and the lugs – negatively affected our other- wise positive impression of the test watch. In particular. And how often will the setting tool (included with the watch) be on hand when it’s needed? The Longines logo decorates the pronged buckle. . a true mark of the quality of the Longines cal- iber. along with the blued column wheel. as the lower edges of the lugs are much too sharp. we tool. as measured by an electronic timing ma- chine. The problem is evident from the crooked position of the pushers in their case openings. typical in The inset corrector button in the case can this price category. The visual refinements of the bridges and plates. However. to be something of a drawback.WT_STI_2013__Longines_03 23. The corrector button was so small that even the tip of a conventional ballpoint pen was too large to change the date. which uses an integrated case button. found the quick date adjustment. which may not be on hand. The amplitudes in every position were just as impressive. regardless of whether or not the chronograph was run- ning.13 13:04 Seite 71 excessive play exhibited by both pushers.08. added to only be operated easily with a special our overall positive impression of the movement. Their looseness does not match the quality of this fine movement. its per- fect rate results caught our attention: they showed only margin- al deviations from zero. The wrist test showed rate results that rivaled those of a radio- controlled watch.

At the end of the day it is clear that Longines has achieved a and the clutch worthy goal with its column-wheel chronograph.) The initial position before starting the chronograph: the reset lever is visible at the top and the clutch lever below. Another aspect deserves note: the lack of is reset (not shown). refined appearance. but legibility declines considerably in very bright or darker conditions due to reflections and insufficient contrast (3. which sells for lever remains in $2. ing conditions.08. In the dark. it quickly becomes difficult to read is turned to the the time in the dark. at such a reasonable price. pressed between two columns. a thorough examination of right again. the clutch lever falls between The light-colored dial and rhodium-plated hands make two columns and the reset reading the time and elapsed time quite easy under normal light- lever is lifted.2 Caliber include the additional the reset lever is markings and thus have a sportier look. column wheel is moved to the right.850. Furthermore.) The loose and crooked (as shown starting above). the the dial gave us reason to criticize the length of the hands.) If the chrono- between hands and dial. No other manufacturer offers such a solid mechanism its position. When especially those with a particular interest in chronographs. Super-LumiNova on the dial and hour and minutes hands is suf- the column wheel ficient for only a brief time.13 13:04 Seite 72 TEST Longines Column Wheel Chronograph (1. the rather spartan use of graph is stopped.  72 WatchTime Tests 2013 .688. position. Both clutch lever is lifted out and the minutes hand and the central chronograph hand are about a the reset lever millimeter too short and do not extend to the minutes track. and does not match the process: the high quality of the movement. the additional index markings between the seconds markers gives column wheel the chronograph a classic. The excessive play in the chronograph pushers leaves them (2. other Longines remains in place. models with the new L.WT_STI_2013__Longines_03 23. the chronograph might find important. remains in This is certainly a minor flaw but one that many watch purists.

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well. large and. you’ll find seven FEST mini-tests of chronos plain and fancy.WT_STI_2013_TEST_FEST_Intro_02 23. 76 Baume & Mercier Capeland 80 Frédérique Constant Vintage Racing Chronograph 84 Hamilton Khaki Field Officer Auto Chrono 88 Porsche Design P’6620 Dashboard 92 Montblanc Sport DLC Chronograph Automatic Movado Datron 94 90 Stowa Pilots’ Chronograph WatchTime Tests 2013 75 . Here. the next 18 pages should make you as happy as a rattrapante at the New York Marathon. and if you like watch tests.13 10:50 Seite 75 CHRONO TEST If you like chronographs. larger.08. Enjoy.

WT_STI_2013_Baume_02 23.08.13 10:53 Seite 76 76 WatchTime Tests 2013 .

date and hack mechanism Movement: Automatic ETA 7753 elaboré. Incabloc shock absorber. Crown up +2 / -1 black and white and its subdials in a Crown down +5 / +1 symmetrical tri-compax arrangement. diameter = 30 mm. minutes. CH-1293 Bellevue.WT_STI_2013_Baume_02 23. 9 Variations: Various dial colors and straps and 12 o’clock also decrease the overall Price: $4. screw-down stainless-steel caseback. With chronograph switched off / on steel case and a brown leather strap. Strap and clasp: Leather strap with designed Capeland at the SIHH exhibi. 28. 27 jewels. Crown left +1 / -4 We also liked the narrow hands and the Crown right +5 / +3 different levels on the dial. water resistant to 50 meters aume and Mercier launched its newly re. A narrow bezel and dramatically curving lugs direct your eyes to the dial. it’s pos. 6. The reflective chronograph hands.350 legibility of the watch. which fits snugly against the case and is adorned with the brand’s logo. modest amount of luminous material on height = 15. Average amplitude: plays tend to make the watch hard to Flat positions 285° / 261° read. Average deviation +4.13 10:53 Seite 77 TESTS 7 Chronographs BY JULIA KNAUT PHOTOS BY OK-PHOTOGRAPHY SPECS BAUME & MERCIER CAPELAND Manufacturer: Baume & Mercier. curved sapphire crystal. the size and position of the dis. Chemin de la Chênaie 50.08. The watch has a Rate results: harmonious design featuring a brown (Deviations in seconds per 24 hours) sunburst finish on the dial. chronograph with 30-minute and 12-hour counter. red. stainless-steel double-folding clasp tion in Geneva in 2011. Etachron regulator.1 mm. Thanks to tachymeter and telemeter tracks. Hanging positions 254° / 230° the overly long minutes hand and the Dimensions: Diameter = 42 mm.9 mm Case: Stainless steel. small seconds. Dial up +6 / +4 We found the dial especially attrac. weight = 107 g the hour and minutes hands and at 3.3 However. 44-hour power reserve. We liked the convex crown. height = 7. Dial down +7 / +5 tive. a stainless. Switzerland Reference: MOA10002 Functions: Hours. The crown’s shape WatchTime Tests 2013 77 .000 vph. with its color scheme of brown. Greatest deviation of rate 6/9 sible to calculate speed and distance.3 / +1.

13 10:54 Seite 78 TESTS 7 Chronographs Pros + Beautiful design + Excellent wearing comfort + Good rate results Cons .08.WT_STI_2013_Baume_02 23. 78 WatchTime Tests 2013 .High price The 42-mm version of the Capeland contains the ETA 7753.Difficult quick date adjustment .

WT_STI_2013_Baume_02 23. The only disadvantage of this off. 3 clean finishes. Hard seconds. However. The greatest of $4. the lugs have some sharp edges. The new model is pow- Generally simple but well made. When the chronograph was the lugs have some sharp edges. stainless-steel. the movement gained only about one second on average and the Legibility (5): Small and extremely greatest deviation of rate was only nine detailed displays reduce legibility. to read in the dark due to limited use of The Capeland's beautiful design. superb wearing comfort and good rate results. 10 o’clock. enables quick date adjustment using the ensures a secure closure. we like the beautiful design. double-folding clasp are also comfortable. giving it a transpar- on the timing machine and on the wrist ent caseback. The 7750 has been reconfigured Operation (5): The chronograph pushers equipped with deployant buttons. buttons. Visually. The 42-mm clasp is hard to open with no deployant clasp. The price chronograph is on.13 10:54 Seite 79 and fluting make it easy to grasp and hold. which allows for the earned it a score of eight out of 10 possi- Case (10): Careful. 7 Unfortunately. However. The generously sized chrono push- ers are also easy to use. so you by La Joux-Perret to allow for a tri- and the crown are easy to use but the need to use a bit of force to open the compax dial arrangement. the has some slight flaws. which prong on the outer buckle of the clasp case and does not shift out of place. The supple leather strap and flat. The push. 11 TOTAL: 74 POINTS WatchTime Tests 2013 79 . the clasp is not crown. For instance. the greatest deviation was six seconds ers are well designed and easy to use. The caseback is secured with six screws. The leather strap is attached securely to the ered by an ETA 7750 movement. which makes the watch comfortable to wear. 8 Value (15): Although the price is high. the strap and clasp are a model will continue to use the ETA 7753. 4 7753 movement. when brand has improved this aspect of the BAUME & MERCIER CAPELAND you look closely you can see minor marks watch in its larger 44-mm model. 10 points): from the polishing process.). and even better when the clasp with deployant buttons. The strap is padded and accented with a white seam. The case has simple yet careful finish- ing. But its price of $4. luminous material. 11 & Mercier has made further improve- Rate results (10): The average daily gain ments to this model. an alligator strap and a is good. The cut duced this year. high level of wearing com- Wearing comfort (10): Comfortable to fort and good rate results are all impres- wear thanks to the supple strap and sive. 7 proven standard movement is that the between the various positions with a gain quick date adjustment requires the use of of about four seconds per day. A sharp object is needed to use good match for the case and dial.08. and the clasp has an outer bar and prong that a correction button located on the case at keep the watch securely in place. Our test watch did well on the timing the recessed button for the quick date The Capeland is powered by an ETA machine. Decorations are limited to dard movements.350 seems rela- curved caseback 9 tively high when compared with other Movement (20): Reliable standard nicely designed chronographs with stan- movement. It is curved.  deviation between positions is acceptable (6 sec. With the Design (15): Harmonious and balanced design all around 14 chrono on. and a sharp object is needed SCORES The execution of the clasp is clean but to operate the button. tri-compax arrangement of the ble points. simple execution.350 remains unchanged. intro- Strap and clasp (max. Baume the rotor. but balanced. achieving rate results that adjustment. Since our test. Even in the extended position the crown remains securely seated. dial.

13 13:22 Seite 80 TESTS 7 Chronographs Frédérique Constant Vintage Racing Chronograph BY ALEXANDER KRUPP PHOTOS BY OK-PHOTOGRAPHY 80 WatchTime Tests 2013 .WT_STI_2013_FC_Vintage_02 23.08.

The FRÉDÉRIQUE CONSTANT long-haul rally. VINTAGE RACING CHRONOGRAPH covers some 9. Design (15): 12 A watch that’s launched to honor Legibility (5): 4 such a race should have a nostalgically sporty design. Frédérique Constant’s Vintage Rate results (10): 8 Racing Chronograph includes all of Overall value (15): 12 these features.000 miles and crosses most of Asia and much of Europe on Strap and clasp (max. The ETA 7750 has been reworked to provide historical tri-com- pax positioning of the subdials rather than the conventional dial arrangement. The model in our test has TOTAL: 74 POINTS contrasting counters on the dial. watch we tested. rédérique Constant has been the official Except for this attractive element. some Case (10): 7 driving century-old cars. but what else does it of- F – The imitation crocodile strap doesn’t match the fer? First.13 13:23 Seite 81 The strap and clasp are well made. the most adventurous of all SCORES endurance rallies for vintage cars. WatchTime Tests 2013 81 . events celebrating classic Austin-Healey cars since 2000. a steel case and the ability Wearing comfort (10): 8 to measure the duration of driven Movement (20): 12 stretches.WT_STI_2013_FC_Vintage_02 23. 10 points): 7 “roads” that are sometimes barely there. ing movement. One of the move- ment’s visual highlights is the “Peking to Paris” rotor with colorful engravings. Frédérique Constant also removed the movement’s date display.08. the timekeeper and a supporter of numerous movement has no embellishment. Operation (5): 4 More than 100 teams participate. which gives the dial perfect symmetry. first organized in 1907. it has a Swiss-made self-wind- automotive look. Recently Frédérique Constant announced it is the official timekeeper of the Peking to Paris Motor Challenge. Pros + Sporty retro design + Good rate results + Very high-quality folding clasp Cons – Central hands are hard We like the sporty retro design of the to read.

the tested watch’s stant’s affiliation with car rallies would FRÉDÉRIQUE CONSTANT average daily gain was only 2.5 Average amplitude: Flat positions 301° / 284° Hanging positions 275° / 255° Dimensions: Diameter = 43 mm. and its features definitely outweigh its 100 meters but a luxurious watch that sells for nearly minor flaws.5 and 2. seconds.888 pieces Price: $3. height = 14. However. the crown mud kicked up by a car’s tires. small seconds. Incabloc shock absorption. we like the well-constructed Plan-les-Ouates.300 should not be fitted with an imi. six screws the case’s rounded contours and polished enough contrast between the dial and the hold back in place.13 13:23 Seite 82 TESTS 7 Chronographs The movement is well constructed $3. 28. CH-1228 Long-term wearing tests in which we However. With chronograph switched off / on Dial up -1 / -2 Dial down +5 / +3 Crown up +1 / +1 Crown down +3 / +3 Crown left 0 / -2 Crown right +5 / +6 Greatest deviation of rate 6/8 Average deviation +2.2 / +1.5 mm. back has a transparent surfaces may not appeal to everyone. Safety pushers and an outer stirrup with a counters.5 ensures that leather rather than metal Functions: Hours. complete the good overall impression of 7750 elaboré.WT_STI_2013_FC_Vintage_02 23. fine crafted dial. Geneva.275 82 WatchTime Tests 2013 . Frédérique Con- to our timing machine. water resistant to The strap and clasp are well made. height = 7. tick merrily even after suffering the indig. 25 jewels. screw. Switzerland used the chrono several times a day folding clasp: the closure is sturdy and it Reference number: FC-396SB6B6 showed daily gains between 1.2 seconds. But the watch’s price window of sapphire. three central hands.08. diameter = 30 mm. chronograph with 30-minute and 12-hour A simple yet solidly crafted stainless. According tation crocodile strap. domed and nonreflective sapphire crystal. weight = 121 g Limited edition: 1.  Strap and clasp: Embossed calfskin strap with stainless-steel safety clasp Rate results: (Deviations in seconds per 24 hours) One of the watch’s highlights is its “Peking to Paris” rotor. be better served by using a cowhide strap VINTAGE RACING CHRONOGRAPH The greatest difference among the vari. pierced with holes. raised logo against a matte background Movement: Modified automatic ETA rounds the movement and the well. touches the inside of the wearer’s wrist. The case is water resistant to this component. adjustment via regulator with eccentric 100 meters. Chemin du Champ des Filles 32. is somewhat hard to grasp and there isn’t Case: Stainless steel.9 mm nity of being splattered with Mongolian the strap is imitation crocodile.800 vph. SPECS and the rate results are good. like the one the brand Manufacturer: Frédérique Constant SA. ous positions was not large: six seconds. stop-seconds function steel case with two sapphire crystals sur. uses in its Austin-Healey collection. so this watch will continue to We found only three minor shortcom. minutes. ings in the Vintage Racing Chronograph: 42-hour power reserve.

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08.WT_STI_2013_Hamilton_02 23. 84 WatchTime Tests 2013 .13 13:25 Seite 84 TESTS 7 Chronographs BY JULIA KNAUT PHOTOS BY OK-PHOTOGRAPHY Pros + Solid craftsmanship + Good wearing comfort Cons – Mediocre rate results – Daytime legibility could be better.

with neatly crafted edges resistant to 100 meters quarters in Bienne. in 1892. Chemin du Long-Champ 119. five screws hold back in place. Many components mineral-glass window in back. chronograph with 30-minute and 12-hour counters. tool marks: a few of the bridges were Rate results: The Khaki Field Officer Auto slightly scratched.9 mm when Hamilton became America’s most and Hamilton’s logo.08. Switzerland. (Deviations in seconds per 24 hours) Chronograph is powered by the time. date and day displays. Crown left +5 / -1 Crown right +10 / +6 Greatest deviation of rate 11 / 15 Average deviation +10. The movement in our Strap and clasp: Cowhide strap with though Hamilton has American roots. tested watch unfortunately had some double-pronged stainless-steel buckle Swiss movements tick inside its watches. Switzerland Reference number: H71716533 Functions: Hours. weight = 117 g Variations: With stainless-steel bracelet ($1. Now the brand is part other decoration.395 WatchTime Tests 2013 85 . CH-2504 Bienne. the movement makes a good impres- With chronograph switched off / on honored ETA 7750. Etachron regulator became the leading supplier of pocket. The rest of the Case: Stainless steel.13 13:26 Seite 85 The watch contains the tried-and-true ETA 7750 movement. Its popularity requires 90 minutes to advance. though.. Incabloc shock watches for railroad men. and surfaces. pilots’ watches. Pa. This movement is sion. domed sapphire important domestic manufacturer of movement is kept rather simple with no crystal. minutes. The rotor boasts a sunburst pattern diameter = 30 mm.800 vph. height = 7.5 / +7. as well as a stop- 28. Lancaster. SPECS HAMILTON KHAKI FIELD OFFICER AUTO CHRONO Manufacturer: Hamilton International Ltd. seconds function. are polished. stop-seconds function he Hamilton Watch Co. so al.WT_STI_2013_Hamilton_02 23.3 Average amplitude: Flat positions 281° / 267° Hanging positions 246° / 232° Dimensions: Diameter = 44 mm. All in all. The brand soon date and day displays. 48-hour power reserve. was founded in such as a rapid-reset mechanism for the Movement: Automatic ETA 7750 elaboré. continued to grow into the 20th century. absorption. 25 jewels. Dial down +16 / +14 Crown up +11 / +8 Crown down +9 / +7 The side view of the watch shows its sturdy construction. considering that the watch is not Dial up +12 / +10 equipped with user-friendly features expensive. height = 16 mm.. water of the Swatch Group and has its head. The date display with eccentric screw.445) Price: $1.

3 dial ordinarily found on watches pow- Wearing comfort (10): Comfortable on ered by the ETA 7750.” Case (10): Relatively simple. The shaped like the letter “H. but solidly The buckle opens and cleanly crafted 7 and closes easily. It is polished and adorned with an embossed “H. minutes and seconds the matte stainless-steel case and the Movement (20): The time-honored ETA hands coated with luminous material sporty strap. which are satin-finished like the case. The dial is look quite as sturdy as we would wish.” covered. but the reason for the red This watch is very comfortable to wear marking between 9 and 11 o’clock but its strap is somewhat stiff. with no explanation as to its purpose. but Design (15): The uncomplicated sporty its rather thin material doesn’t design suits this watch well. but the numerals on the counters are the red marking along the edge of the Rate results (10): The average gain is much too small. A min- eral-glass window in the screwed stain- SCORES less-steel back offers a clear view of the movement. stainless- steel case is well made. the strap goes on is made of satin-finished and off easily thanks to its double.” However. but unfor- simplicity of the dial enhances its legibili. letter “H. appeal. 7 is firmly attached to the Operation (5): The crown and push. 13 Large. We like the well-balanced the dark.” The crown doesn’t wob- ble. 9 displays appear in their usual positions at The black dial is a good match for 3 o’clock. 10 points): row of holes keeps the watch se- The strap is carefully and cleanly crafted. but all elements are easy to read in and stylish extras further increase its this price. the subdials are too small.08. and the calendar double prong shaped displays can be quickly reset.400. even in its outermost position. yet competently finished. but The watch’s precision was not espe. 6 are too short. luminous numerals are Legibility (5): The watch is legible both the first details you notice on the well- day and night thanks to the design of the designed black dial. the greatest deviation is relatively o’clock and 12 o’clock.13 13:26 Seite 86 TESTS 7 Chronographs The simple. curely fastened around your but the stamped pronged buckle is too wrist. Simple complete the well-balanced picture.5 seconds per day. sturdy construction chronograph with a Swiss movement at hands. There’s one counter black dial with large contrasting for 30 elapsed minutes at 12 o’clock and The buckle has a double prong shaped like the numerals. the owner gets poor when the chronograph is that the watch’s hour and minutes hands a handsomely styled chronograph with switched on. remains a mystery.WT_STI_2013_Hamilton_02 23. case. We also found For not quite $1. white. The rate results weren’t especial- design and the good craftsmanship. ly good: in this instance. dial from 9 o’clock to 11 o’clock seems a fairly high 10. The date and day the wrist. stainless steel and has a pronged buckle. Swiss quality the rate results and the finishing on the cially good: the maximum daily deviation expresses itself more clearly in the movement could be improved. HAMILTON KHAKI FIELD A dark brown cowhide strap OFFICER AUTO CHRONO with white stitching and a double Strap and clasp (max. 5 like the letter “H. The stamped buckle pieces are easy to use. The elapsed-time subdi. the rate. Clean craftsman- Overall value (15): Few brands offer a numerals is not as bright as that of the ship throughout. nicely styled. Hour. but two numerals are partially another for 12 elapsed hours at 6 o’clock. and but the dial doesn’t have the seconds sub- the hands are too short. satin-finished. als partially cover the hour numerals at 6 superfluous.5 seconds. The neatly crafted strap simply made. The push-pieces and the crown are also well crafted.  86 WatchTime Tests 2013 . Pairs of bushings add to the stability of these pushers. 13 was 11 seconds and the average daily gain appealing styling than in the accuracy of TOTAL: 74 POINTS was 10. tunately with a few faint tool marks 11 ty. We like the pronged buckle 7750 with few embellishments. The luminosity of the a pilots’-watch design. but the strap is stiff. The crown is easy to grasp and pull out.

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WT_STI_2013_Porsche_02 23. . 88 WatchTime Tests 2013 .08.Time displays are not perfectly legible.Date cannot be changed using the crown. understated design + Nicely fluted crown and pushers + Finely decorated movement Cons .13 11:10 Seite 88 BY ALEXANDER KRUPP PHOTOS BY OK-PHOTOGRAPHY Pros + Harmonious.

13 11:10 Seite 89 TESTS 7 Chronographs f you dream of one day owning a Porsche 911. of course.800). harmonious sports-watch design Average deviation +4 / +2. to change the double-sided nonreflective coating. The ends of the titanium with PVD coating central hands are too far away from their Rate results: tracks and the chronograph counters (Deviations in seconds per 24 hours) have only one or two numerals each. 28. date you must press a button on the left threaded back with sapphire window. has designed accessories since 1972 – sun. a large was off. the rate results it turer based in Grenchen. quite low: four seconds per day when the PORSCHE DESIGN P'6620 DASHBOARD neered.  Hanging positions 267° / 251° Design (15): 12 Dimensions: Diameter = 44 mm.350 WatchTime Tests 2013 89 .13. small seconds. leather goods and.8 Operation (5): 4 will continue to please any wearer. achieved on our timing machine met SPECS Among them is the P'6620 Dashboard COSC standards. Schützengasse titanium.8 seconds per day when the function 46. The Greatest deviation of rate 9/9 Strap and clasp (max. it has a Glucydur balance watches. With chronograph switched off / on And what about the price? Is it neces. curved sapphire crystal with the watch as a whole is not very thick. Dial up +4 / +2 sary for a chronograph with a mass. headquartered in Austria. The high edge of it showed a gain of only 1. When the watch was worn. The average gain was chronograph. The 7753 used in this watch is ETA's glasses. Switzerland bracelet with an invisible clasp. even though We found only two points to criticize Case: Bead-blasted titanium with PVD coating. smooth-fitting link 2. Etachron understated. finely decorated ETA 7753 movement range of acceptability (nine seconds). about the P'6620. Incabloc shock absorption.5 mm.000 vph.500) TOTAL: 75 POINTS Price: $6. tified by COSC. fully ly 14. the dial folding clasp made of bead-blasted from other manufacturers. Although the movement is not cer- Eterna. The company.000). especially when pen or other pointy object – not a good Bracelet and clasp: Bracelet and safety compared with the mismatched typefaces idea with a coated case. Switzerland. al. even Average amplitude: after his own 911 is finally parked in the Flat positions 296° / 281° Case (10): 8 driveway. height = 7.350? It Crown up +5 / +4 may not be necessary but it’s understand- Crown down +1 / +1 able when the quality is superior and the Crown left -1 / -2 SCORES watch is from a desirable brand. and was thoroughly pre-adjusted by Porsche Design watches are made by ETA. Dial down +7 / +5 produced movement to cost $6. chronograph switched off and on show Movement: Automatic ETA 7753. “top” The watch is striking and sporty yet excellent workmanship on the gears and grade. All of the type used on the di. is not perfectly legible. water resistant to track. Its details are harmonious arbors. hack mechanism the spokes of a Porsche wheel. regulator. This requires using a ballpoint 100 meters a pleasure to look at.9 mm the dial and its almost vertical minutes per day. on. 44-mm case made of PVD-coated chronograph function was on and only Manufacturer: Eterna SA. although Crown right +8 / +7 PORSCHE DESIGN P'6620 DASHBOARD it may never be a collectors’ piece. are in Porsche Design typography – crown. chronograph with 30-minute and 12-hour with a specially shaped rotor inspired by Very similar individual scores with the counter. you can fill your time until then with luxury arti- cles from Porsche Design.5 seconds 48-hour power reserve.08. It has a precisely engi. First. Second. CH-2540 Grenchen.WT_STI_2013_Porsche_02 23. the 150-year-old watch manufac. track provide unusual depth. “top” grade. a seamless. rose-gold case and Overall value (15): 12 leather strap ($32. without being boring. Legibility (5): 3 height = 14. The new Dashboard has both attributes. minutes.0269 fluted crown and grooved pushers. and a the various positions remained within the Functions: Hours. uncoated case and titanium bracelet or PVD-coated case and Rate results (10): 7 rubber strap ($6. The greatest deviation between Reference: 6620.46. diameter = 30 mm. date. 27 jewels. weight = 168 g Wearing comfort (10): 8 Variations: Uncoated case and rubber Movement (20): 13 strap ($5. including the date and the tachymeter side of the case instead of turning the screw-down crown. 10 points): 8 simple.5 mm.

traditional pilots’ watch has a cleanly styled. and not too close to the edge of the case. fluted.WT_STI_2013_Stowa_03. and one that’s a sur- prise to find in a traditionally styled pilots’ watch. Stowa’s Pilots’ Chronograph has all of these characteristics but offers much more. In- signia and logos are left off since they would detract from the legibility.13 11:12 Seite 90 TESTS 7 Chronographs Stowa Pilots’ Chronograph BY ALEXANDER KRUPP PHOTO BY OK-PHOTOGRAPHY Pros + Distinctive design + Good cost-to-benefit ratio + Very legible both day and night Cons – Too much force is needed to operate the crown and push-pieces. The crown is large.qxp 23. Both the dial and the case are matte finished to prevent glare. Its best feature. luminous indicators and a trian- gle flanked by a pair of dots at 12 o’clock. black dial with individual min- utes markers. The hands are diamond shaped and differ in width so you can instantly tell the hour hand from the minutes hand.08. is its individuality. Its dis- tinctive look is mainly due to its chrono- 90 WatchTime Tests 2013 .

8 seconds when the chronograph was switched on. as well as the inner end of the hour in- Average deviation +4 / +2.800 vph. height = 14.) Last but not least. attractive pilots’- STOWA PILOTS’ CHRONOGRAPH watch styling and excellent legibility: what other advantages will you have up Manufacturer: Stowa GmbH & Co. The case fits com. chronograph tals in front and back. counter for 30 elapsed minutes remains.13 11:13 Seite 91 isfactory rate performance.7 mm. watch as a flashlight. water resistant to 50 meters bility of the dial. Variations: Pale brown pilots’ strap. surprisingly well. Movement (20): 12 blued screws and gold inlay in the engrav- Rate results (10): 8 ings on the rotor. KG. Pilots’ Chrono under it? One is the clean. including Case: Stainless steel.qxp 23. Schauer. Jörg five different lengths. the strap wraps around the wrist twice height = 7. Germany ly crafted 4l-mm case with sapphire crys. Functions: Hours. Our timing machine showed an average daily gain of four seconds. Peer Legibility (5): 5 bracelet through the sapphire window in the case.  Crown down +7 / +6 other hands are on top of it.8 dex at 3 o’clock. SPECS Good rate behavior.WT_STI_2013_Stowa_03. TOTAL: 79 POINTS WatchTime Tests 2013 91 . 40-hour from the wearing comfort. the movement Design (15): 14 conventional cowhide strap. which is very easy to read and suppleness of the leather.08. 27 jewels. Stowa’s owner. The legibility of the time SCORES Average amplitude: has been almost completely preserved. The historically in- Etachron fine adjustment via regulator. This operation would be difficult Crown up +1 / 0 counter remains legible when the watch’s for a pilot wearing flight gloves. stop-seconds function fortably on the wrist. fully threaded back with a and only slightly reduces the overall legi. 28. your sleeve after you’ve strapped Stowa’s Gewerbepark 16. The only Crown left +1 / 0 things Schauer sacrificed to make this Crown right +5 / +5 subdial so large are the numerals 2. the strap fits the inside. Despite the alterations. automatic. spired pilots’-watch strap doesn’t detract Incabloc shock absorption. Only the from slipping through the buckle. has modified the familiar ETA in the unlikely event that the pronged Strap and clasp: Pilots’ strap made of cowhide with stainless-steel pronged 7753 chronograph caliber to remove its buckle should open unexpectedly. weight = 110 grams Case (10): 8 ed for night flying. the Super-LumiNova C3 on the STOWA PILOTS’ CHRONOGRAPH Flat positions 292° / 281° dial glows so brightly and for so many Strap and clasp (max. its continually running sec. Wearing comfort (10): 8 Price: Approximately $2. woven steel still looks very much like its old self. Contrary to convention. minutes. The performance was simi- lar on the wrist. Thanks to the softness crystal with nonreflective coating on graph function. The only disadvantage we found was (Deviations in seconds per 24 hours) With chronograph switched off / on at 3 o’clock. In addition. (The strap is available in sapphire window. this the somewhat inconvenient operation: the counter has been greatly enlarged so the push-pieces run stiffly and you must use Dial up +4 / +2 elapsed minutes are easier to read than on your fingernail to pull out the firmly fitted Dial down +6 / +4 the dials of most chronographs. with counter for 30-elapsed minutes.200 back and you’ll find decorative patterns. diameter = 30 mm. the gain lessened to just 2. and the sleek sim- plicity of the case is a good match for the Movement: Modified ETA 7753 elaboré. domed sapphire one that’s metal. The crown. a rivet buckle date display. where the watch was used alternately with and without its chrono function. 3 and Greatest deviation of rate 6/6 4. watch’s overall styling. Schauer has used the simpler “elaboré” version of the caliber Overall value (15): 13 and fine tuned it until it delivers very sat.9 mm and goes through several loops. making it well suit. D-75331 Engelsbrand. even though power reserve. at the end of the strap prevents the strap Rate results: onds hand and its hour counter. 10 points): 8 Hanging positions 266° / 255° hours that you could almost use this Operation (5): 3 Dimensions: Diameter = 41 mm.

it does not rectangular. Furthermore. the watch can be quite comfortable. For the smaller than they would be if the display The Datron is a tribute to ’70s styling. whether the chronograph was switched Design (15): 13 The original Datron contained the Zenith on or off. a useful o’clock found on Movado’s best-known feature when your wrist swells in the heat. and the brand’s own rotor fitted with the ETA 2894. in 2010. – No built-in extension o’clock and the 30-minute counter at 9 The crown. The watch we tested performed very MOVADO DATRON and the luminous baton indices. Gedalio Rate results (10): 7 Grinberg bought Movado. The subdials now overlap. Unfortunately. Movado introduced an au- I feature. the Museum Watch. works very piece to lengthen bracelet o’clock. There Datron. 10 points): 7 three subdials retain their contrasting is of the basic “elaboré” grade. SCORES mushroom-shaped push-pieces. preserving many of seconds hand sits directly on top of the for $2. model. The case shape is the same. cause of the rather large deviations among Legibility (5): 3 matic chronographs.  the original model’s features but changing date when the chronograph is not run- others. In 1983. they smoothly. but it Legibility isn’t the Datron’s strongest requires a watchmakers’ tool and plenty n 1970.08.13 11:16 Seite 92 TESTS 7 Chronographs MOVADO BY ALEXANDER KRUPP PHOTOS BY OK-PHOTOGRAPHY DATRON the various positions: nine seconds with Pros the chronograph off and 10 seconds with + Well-adapted retro it on. ning. age daily rate was about +3 seconds Case (10): 8 The movement. a few sharp edges on the and a date display in an unusual aperture requires that the numerals be bracelet and clasp. The date window is The bracelet is well made and attrac- also different: it is now round instead of tively finished. The movement is a pleasure to be- design hold with its various decorative patterns. which had an oval case which are also silvery. the hands. the were rectilinear. + Cleanly crafted blued screws. You can adjust the bracelet yourself. Operation (5): 4 color scheme. The aver. of force. and the wrist. which was launched Wearing comfort (10): 7 in 1969. tomatic chronograph called the ways instantly visible above the subdials. and it eventu- Overall value (15): 12 ally became the flagship of the now pub- licly held Movado Group. Because of the with a red “M” for “Movado. Its silver-colored hands aren’t al. one of the world’s first auto.WT_STI_2013_Movado_02 23. (Zenith acquired the Movado Movement (20): 12 brand the same year. Datron’s 40th anniversary. The date well on both the timing machine and the display remains at 12 o’clock.) The new one is TOTAL: 73 POINTS 92 WatchTime Tests 2013 . as are the as is the case. however. Once you find the right length. however.995. We subtracted a few points be- El Primero. an allusion to the dot at 12 have a built-in extension piece. two of the subdials have swapped The stiffly running start-stop button is – Legibility not ideal places: the running seconds is now at 3 problematic. is different. The round calendar are. you have to push it hard. at 12 o’clock. which retails version of the watch. its position Watch fans with a weakness for historical company brought out a commemorative at 12 o’clock means that the chronograph models will enjoy this one. The dial is nonetheless well crafted. despite the fact that the movement Strap and clasp (max.” Cons change. didn’t on the original. position. on the other hand.

ostrich-leather strap ($2.800 vph.WT_STI_2013_Movado_02 23.1 mm Case: Stainless steel.295) Price: $2.08. minutes. date display.8 / +3. automatic chronograph. CH-2501 Bienne. stop-seconds function Movement: ETA 2894 elaboré. Etachron fine adjustment via regulator with eccentric screw.995 WatchTime Tests 2013 93 . weight = 152 grams Variations: Silver-colored dial and black counters. water resistant to 50 meters Bracelet and clasp: Stainless-steel bracelet with double-folding clasp Rate results: (Deviations in seconds per 24 hours) With chronograph switched off / on Dial up +5 / +4 Dial down +3 / +1 Crown up +4 / +3 Crown down +4 / +5 Crown left +5 / +8 Crown right -4 / -2 Greatest deviation of rate 9 / 10 Average deviation +2. Switzerland Reference number: 0606364 Functions: Hours. diameter = 28. chronograph with counters for 30 minutes and 12 hours. 37 jewels. small seconds.6 mm. height = 12. Incabloc shock absorption.5 mm. Rue de Nidau 35. fully threaded back with sapphire window. height = 6. 28.13 11:16 Seite 93 SPECS MOVADO DATRON Manufacturer: MGI Luxury Group SA. domed sapphire crystal is nonreflective on inner surface. 42-hour power reserve.2 Average amplitude: Flat positions 307° / 295° Hanging positions 274° / 264° Dimensions: Diameter = 40 mm.

WT_STI_2013_Montblanc_02 23.13 11:19 Seite 94 Montblanc Sport DLC Chronograph Automatic BY ALEXANDER KRUPP Pros + High-quality craftsmanship + Easy to read Cons – Basic movement – Wearing comfort and ease of use less than ideal 94 WatchTime Tests 2013 .08.

can be tough to pull out. Movement: ETA 7750 elaboré. diameter = the Montblanc logo is embossed in the center too high. fully threaded back made of complex engraving of the word “Mont. The side of the “elaboré” movement. is a particularly distinctive example of such a watch. and ment makes its price of $6. built-in magnifying lens above the case opposite the crown is adorned with a Sport DLC Chronograph Automatic is the date display. it might not fare so well. CHRONOGRAPH AUTOMATIC (Deviations in seconds per 24 hours) fingered would-be wearers should beware: With chronograph switched off / on Strap and clasp (max. Etachron fine adjustment via regulator. and the date dis. If you’re wear- seen at a glance. and the crown. its legibility is Want to read more Variations: Non-coated stainless steel: praiseworthy. which built strap all deserve a “top” rather than an sapphire crystal is nonreflective on both have been attractively crafted. you won’t have to “chronometer” grades.” The case’s only shortcoming is that to 200 meters the matte surface of the bezel makes finger- Strap and clasp: Alligator strap with SCORES prints or dust readily visible. water resistant blanc.watchtime. Price: $6. per day. and it has a well-crafted clo. it opens and Movement (20): 12 Greatest deviation of rate 6/7 closes securely. flat The arcing lugs have tiered edges. crown is threaded and well protected.  DLC-coated stainless steel. and the markers on the http://www. worry about close encounters with water. embodiment of sportiness and luxury.A. Incabloc shock absorption.300) ty. chronograph with counters for comes with a unidirectional divers’ bezel that for its performance on the wrist: a very 30 elapsed minutes and 12 elapsed clicks precisely into place when rotated. if the dressier. Switzerland gator-skin strap on the model we tested were can see from the “Specs” box. A solid caseback conceals the watch’s in- ner workings. 28. The clasp is a good match for the Flat positions 286° / 269° TOTAL: 75 POINTS neatly sewn alligator strap and its cleanly Hanging positions 258° / 243° glued edges. tests and reviews.800 vph. Dimensions: Diameter = 44 mm.13 11:20 Seite 95 TESTS 7 Chronographs SPECS M ontblanc has been making complicated watches containing in-house movements for several years. minutes. the automatic chronograph.9 mm of the fully threaded. But it continues to introduce less expensive watches that house standard calibers. CH-2400 On the other hand. The nearly perfect case. Ditto seconds. crafted and multilevel dial and the solidly Case: Black DLC-coated stainless steel. The accurate rate with a loss of just one second hours. Weak.105 somewhat 48-hour power reserve. Nevertheless. The Sport DLC Chronograph Automatic. matte alli. In terms of quality.3 sure stirrup that has the same tiered edges as Overall value (15): 11 Average amplitude: the lugs.WT_STI_2013_Montblanc_02 23. date. play is magnified by a built-in lens. play easy to read. height = Although the watch is not especially 16 mm. The rhodium-plated hands are watch tests? Scan with black dial and rubber strap ($4. Rate results (10): 8 Average deviation +1 / +1. Case (10): 9 Crown up 0 / +2 mm-thick case and the sharp-angled. the clasp is impecca. these hands glow so brightly they distract from the primary time display when you’re trying to tell the time in the dark. DLC-coated steel back. The 16. while easy Operation (5): 3 Dial down +1 /+1 to unscrew.100) here to access our well proportioned and have ample luminosi- or with black dial and stainless-steel online archive of bracelet ($4. MONTBLANC SPORT DLC Rate results: ic is robust in more ways than one. quite regularly on our timing machine.105 elapsed-time counters are sharp and can be com/category/reviews/ WatchTime Tests 2013 95 . Its case is coated with scratch-resis- tant diamond-like carbon (DLC) and it’s water resistant to 200 meters. the sides. small The Sport Automatic Chronograph where it posted a very slight daily gain. less stringent than for ETA’s “top” and CHRONOGRAPH AUTOMATIC strap version of the watch. weight = 159 grams user-friendly or comfortable. fitted with the ETA 7750. triple. The movement has Manufacturer: Montblanc Montre S. screws and the rotor’s wavy finishing. Design (15): 13 Crown down +3 / +3 folding clasp also give wearing comfort a Legibility (5): 4 Crown left -2 / -2 back seat to virility. safety folding clasp The Sport DLC Chronograph Automat. Montblanc uses the basic “elaboré” version of the ETA 7750. 10 points): 8 the push-pieces require near-lethal force Dial up 0 / -1 before they budge. tive treatment on both sides. The pre- cision requirements for this grade are a little MONTBLANC SPORT DLC ing the stainless-steel-bracelet or rubber. Wearing comfort (10): 7 Crown right +4 / +5 ble: its construction is solid. As you Le Locle. height = 7.. the well- 30 mm. this watch ran Reference number: 104279 to get wet. The watch’s simple and mostly unadorned move- 25 jewels. Despite its laudable rate results. been left unembellished except for blued Chemin des Tourelles. stop-seconds function watch’s flat sapphire crystal has nonreflec. the magnifying lens makes the date dis. Functions: Hours.08. But the luminous material on the three smaller hands is too much of a good thing.

08.13 13:17 Seite 96 Pros + Comfortable to wear + Well crafted + Good manufacture caliber Cons – Design not completely consistent – Maximum deviation too high 96 WatchTime Tests 2013 .qxp 23.WT_STI_2013_Chopard_03.

WT_STI_2013_Chopard_03. powered by the first fruit of this venture.13 13:18 Seite 97 Chopard answered the challenge of limited supplies from ETA by setting up its own factory to make less-expensive movements. We tested the Classic Manufacture.qxp 23. BY JENS KOCH PHOTOS BY NIK SCHÖLZEL WatchTime Tests 2013 97 .08.

04-C has little decoration.08.qxp 23.WT_STI_2013_Chopard_03.13 13:18 Seite 98 TEST Chopard Classic Manufacture The 01. 98 WatchTime Tests 2013 .

own movements since date 1996. watches.08.3 available only with a gold case. duced at the 2012 Baselworld show.C version in a watch called the Crown left 2 Group subsidiary named Fleurier L. They include some ex. Crown right 5 Ébauches. The movement.U. But the company has relied primarily We tested the Classic Manufacture rose-gold pronged buckle on ETA movements to power its less. diameter = 28. CH-2114 Fleurier. Dial down -1 making movements for these watches. It is Average deviation +1.U. In 2008. Chopard plans gradually to re.C name). height = 10 mm. slender lugs recall Hanging positions 272° watches of the 1940s and ’50s.8 mm. weight = 69 grams man numerals. minutes. Greatest deviation of rate 8 duce orders of ETA movements and in.C in Movement: Manufacture Caliber 01.95 mm. memory of the firm’s founder. called the 01. Ulysse Chopard. Louis. lain-type white dial with shiny black Ro. 28. Moulins 20. height = 4. which contains the first movement (Deviations in seconds per 24 hours) supplies of ETA movements uncertain.C 1937 Classic. Strap and clasp: Crocodile strap. screws hold back in place. The narrow Flat positions 299° bezel and straight. movements annually within a few years.000 such dow in back.U.WT_STI_2013_Chopard_03. a small seconds subdial at Price: $14. an automatic. Crown up 2 The facility is located in Fleurier. including the sporty Mille 60-hour power reserve such as a tourbillon and a movement Miglia models. The Classic Manufacture was intro. Switzerland hopard has Reference number: 161289-5001 been making its Functions: Hours. with future tum). will ultimately be pow- Case: Rose gold. and operated by a Chopard ed L. Its mod- Average amplitude: erate size (38 mm in diameter) assures an understated appearance. six with perpetual calendar. equation of ered by the brand’s own movements. 27 jewels. crease production of calibers from Fleuri.04- Dial up -3 established its own ébauche production C (it is also the first Chopard in-house facility to concentrate on developing and movement not to bear the L.800 vph. Crown down 3 Swiss Jura. sapphire win- time. small seconds. Glucydur balance. Dimensions: Diameter = 38 mm. sapphire crystal. sunrise and sunset time and orbital Chopard aims to be making 15. tremely complicated and costly ones. automatic. first ap. er Ébauches so that most Chopard Kif shock absorption.13 13:18 Seite 99 SPECS CHOPARD CLASSIC MANUFACTURE Manufacturer: Chopard Manufacture.U.740 WatchTime Tests 2013 99 . They’re named L. A porce.04-C.qxp 23. it from Fleurier Ébauches. water resistant to 30 meters moon-phase display. (originally named the Classic Manufac. in the peared in 2010 in an elaborately decorat. Rate results: expensive watches.

watchtime.com/?p=15867 100 WatchTime Tests 2013 . we would have liked slim but solidly milled prong and inset to see greater contrast between the rotor golden screws for the crosspieces. The new movement.C XPS. we felt it also has a stop-seconds function and a doesn’t quite fit the rest of the dial.U. the calcu. In addition. too expensive. tude to be stable. a maximum deviation of eight seconds among the different positions kept us from giving the watch a very good rating. nize your watch with a time signal or a The Chopard Classic Manufacture radio-controlled clock.U. also in rose date display thanks to the rapid-reset gold. However.U. All in all.C onds. sion of the caliber. like have been polished and the edges of the the case.WT_STI_2013_Chopard_03. the for.U.qxp 23. which underwent Scan here to see the interview. movements also have a swan’s-neck fine though the date display is unobtrusive in adjustment mechanism).C’s microrotor and double barrel.C movements (some L. of the L.13 13:19 Seite 100 TEST Chopard Classic Manufacture mer three-spoke balance has been re- placed by a four-armed variation. The hand-sewn cut crocodile leather you’ll see that the heads of the screws strap suits the watch well. The skele- ly manufactured pronged buckle also tonized rotor is decorated with a twisted shows clean craftsmanship: it has the sunburst pattern. The L. watch to be appropriate. Nevertheless. deserves praise for its construction fairly precisely. http://www. tion. The lack of the mainspring in both directions of rota- hour indices. WatchTime’s German On the other hand. The rotor winds watches of the Belle Époque. but it runs for a longer- and golden feuille hands recall pocket.C calibers. After you pull the crown out to its nificantly less expensive than the L. a bridges. Be that as it may. website this year. found that the strap is too long for a nar. costs $16. We and the bridges. than-average 60 hours. the new movement has whether that’s good or bad is a question plenty to offer. the quality of this movement row wrist: even when the prong is slipped is better than that of ETA’s movements through the last hole.U. we The clasp is easy to use. But the watch gained only one second per day on the doesn’t fulfill the promise of a new gener- wrist. we found the ampli.U. the sapphire window in the caseback. Al. you can quickly adjust the calibers. we function. Triovis fine regulation is used here. On the timing machine.08. Chronos. COSC certification.C ver. which stops the balance as well found the cost-benefit ratio of our tested as the seconds hand so you can synchro. tional circle in the subdial for the sec. as in L. When you look through of taste. which also adorns the brand’s name in raised-relief engraving.C first position. this watch fits and comes closer to equaling the quality rather loosely.U. is neatly crafted.  tions was just +1. so it cannot equal that caliber’s 70-hour 6 o’clock with railroad-style graduations. The new movement does not have the L. The strap. The elaborate. sister magazine. a self-winding movement but with no ond position triggers the stop-seconds date. bridges have been beveled. with a chronometer certificate and mechanism. combined with the addi.3 seconds. power reserve.780. combines good craftsmanship and com- Exact time setting is worthwhile here fort on the wrist. too. The watch we tested and its embellishments. interviewed The fine adjustment is less precise in Chopard’s Karl-Friedrich Scheufele for its this movement than it is in the L. And rotor borne on ceramic ball bearings. However. ation of lower-priced calibers: it is just lated average deviation across all posi. because the Classic Manufacture runs too. as is the were disappointed to find that it isn’t sig- crown. the crown doesn’t bear the brand’s logo: Visually. adds a formal look to the dial. The movement its rimless window at 3 o’clock. Pulling the crown to its sec.

but a watchmaker’s screwdriver left tool marks on the screws in the back. 10 points): The crocodile strap is hand sewn and the pronged buckle is elaborately crafted.WT_STI_2013_Chopard_03. inset screws and raised-relief engraving.C models wasn’t achieved.C calibers. 15 Rate results (10): A little too much deviation among the various positions detracts from otherwise good average deviation. 10 milled prong. 8 Design (15): The elegant and understated appearance is a good match for a tasteful business suit. although the dial lacks a minutes circle and the hands are not coated with luminous material.U. the addition of a date display sacrifices elegance for convenience. 5 Case (10): The polished case is well craft- ed. this watch can hardly be elaborately crafted. 12 Legibility (5): Thanks to the dial’s high contrast. the time is easy to read.08. moderate diameter and softly The handsome gold buckle is supple strap. with a felt on the wrist.13 13:19 Seite 101 SCORES CHOPARD CLASSIC MANUFACTURE Strap and clasp (max. 7 Overall value (15): The expected price advantage compared to the higher-end L.U. adequately embellished and still closely related to the L. Movement (20): The new movement is well engineered.qxp 23. but the price is in line with all this watch offers. 9 Operation (5): The crown is easy to operate. 4 Wearing comfort (10): With its light weight. 12 TOTAL: 82 POINTS WatchTime Tests 2013 101 . Both the time and the date can be quickly reset thanks to a stop-seconds function for the seconds hand and a rapid-reset mechanism for the date.

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Here.08. BY ALEXANDER KRUPP PHOTOS BY NIK SCHÖLZEL 104 WatchTime Tests 2013 .13 11:31 Seite 104 TIME AND AGAIN Girard-Perregaux’s Vin tage 1945 XXL brings styling and technology modern to a World War II-era classic.WT_STI_2013_GP_02 23. we see how well it stan ds our test of time.

WT_STI_2013_GP_02 23.08.13 11:32 Seite 105 .

with its triangular lugs Vintage 1945 XXL is a jumbo-sized ver. The watch contains the manufacture tively wraps itself around your wrist. the surrounding bridges have its predecessor thanks to its dial. which is made of sapphire and. it’s surprising to see that the react to temperature changes and a rectangular caseback is flat. the movement) are blued. has a satin finish. which has automatic it thick or thin. All of these rich embellishments can Girard-Perregaux spared no expense be seen through a perfectly sized pane of giving this watch its dramatic. conforming well to the shape of fine circular graining decorates the your wrist. G-P ends up rejecting many of the crystals But. length of 36 mm (not including the lugs). be Caliber GP3300. The two pairs quite traditional in its structure but it has of downwardly curved lugs enhance the very attractive embellishments: the rotor good fit. Considering how well the winding. the Girard-Perregaux shape of the case. And nearly all the slightly faceted. The crystal. case sides. except for the The hands on the new model are slits in their heads. Just large dimensional appearance.2 mm. With a width of 35 mm and a difficult to manufacture. Many companies that wrists if the sides of its case did not arch manufacture highly curved watches use downward.WT_STI_2013_GP_02 23. 106 WatchTime Tests 2013 . watch under your shirt cuff. which Geneva waves and golden engravings. The movement is beveled on the long sides. bridge of the automatic winding mecha- This new watch is more elegant than nism. The tip of the minutes edges of the flat components are both hand curves downward to minimize beveled and polished. three. our tested watch is because of imperfections. makes it 1945. in fact. The original movement’s lower levels. extremely comfortable to wear.13 11:33 Seite 106 TEST Girard-Perregaux Vintage 1945 XXL s its name suggests. All screws (but model had sportier. although it’s height of just 3. The unusual enough to reveal the entire movement. luminous hour and for the two at the outer edge that hold minutes hands. arching applied hour and circular graining can be seen on the indices and dauphine hands. It posi. give. The leather strap follows the arc is adorned with a snail-shaped pattern begun by the lugs. The clumsy feeling would be Plexiglas or other plastics for their watch magnified when you tried to slip the crystals because it is easier to work with. like the the case is so big that it would extend be. and mid-section curved in both the north- sion of a watch that G-P launched in south and east-west directions. sapphire in the caseback. parallax.08. is curved in both directions. and has very little and the engraving is inlaid with gold. is yond the curvature of most people’s also hard to make. a Glucydur balance that won’t watch fits.

08.13 11:33 Seite 107 Both the tested watch and the original model from 1945 have curved cases. – Varying rate results – High price WatchTime Tests 2013 107 .WT_STI_2013_GP_02 23. Pros + Well-crafted manufacture wristwatch + Appealing design + Very comfortable to wear Cons – The time cannot be read with to-the-minute accuracy.

diameter RATE WAS NEARLY = 26.800 vph. stainless-steel folding clasp Rate results: (Deviations in seconds per 24 hours) this window extends ex- Dial up +6 actly to the lateral bevels Dial down +8 on the back of the case. which is an option given how comfortable it is to wear. Place Girardet 1.8 onds.08. the watch lost four seconds per 24 hours when left overnight in the usual position.8 mm. Crown left –1 The average daily rate The alligator Crown right +3 was nearly perfect. water resistant to THE VARIOUS POSITIONS 30 meters Strap and clasp: Alligator strap with WAS A FULL 10 SECONDS.860 “dial down” and “crown up” positions.2 mm Case: Stainless steel. It also remained completely in sync with the clock when worn overnight. 48-hour power reserve. but it remained perfectly in sync with our radio-controlled clock when we placed it on the nightstand with its crown down.8 sec- comfortable but Average deviation +2.13 11:34 Seite 108 TEST Girard-Perregaux Vintage 1945 XXL SPECS GIRARD-PERREGAUX VINTAGE 1945 XXL Manufacturer: Girard-Perregaux. height = various positions was 10. Kif shock absorption. such a large dis- crepancy could result in big timing errors. Its drawbacks are that it has no buttons to open it with and that the G-P logo is only superficially laser-cut into its outer stirrup. CH-2301 La Chaux-de-Fonds.650 was a full 10 seconds’ difference between the Price: $9. weight = 77 g less satisfactory: there Variations: Rose gold. stop-seconds function Movement: GP3300. One more note on comfort: the fold- ing clasp scarcely rubs at all yet is sturdy enough to feel secure. (For safety’s sake. Depending on how the watch is actually worn. $27. highly curved PERFECT BUT THE sapphire crystal is nonreflective on its inner surface. small seconds. four screws hold caseback DIFFERENCE BETWEEN with pane of sapphire. rather simply a well-regulated watch made. with its crown pointing upward. Glucydur balance. automatic. with strap is very Greatest deviation 10 a gain of just 2. Switzerland Reference number: 25880-11-121-BB6A Functions: Hours.) The great- Hanging positions 257° est deviation among the Dimensions: 35 mm x 36 mm. 28. height = 3. Mean amplitude: should run about two Flat positions 285° seconds fast. A jeweler 108 WatchTime Tests 2013 .WT_STI_2013_GP_02 23. Crown up –2 A Witschi timing ma- chine showed varying re- Crown down +3 sults for the watch’s rate. fine adjustment via lateral THE AVERAGE DAILY screw. minutes. During our wearing test. 32 jewels.2 mm.

15 Rate results (10): The average rate is nearly perfect. such as adding colored hour Legibility (5): The contrast is inade- numerals or luminous hands. and the rectangular minutes track makes it ardize the overall look of this timepiece. would jeop. The watch’s strap was acceptable.13 11:34 Seite 109 we consulted with for this test comment- ed that the clasp isn’t quite on a par with the elaborately manufactured case. fingernail to pull the crown out.2 mm). the dial GP3300 automatic stop-seconds function. And that state- luminous material contributes to the ment is backed by the watch’s high quali. 7 instrument-style watch whose time can Operation (5): You need to use your always be read with to-the-minute accu. 7 Overall value (15): Despite the beautiful manufacture movement and the good craftsmanship. which is very small. through a perfectly But anyone who has fallen in love but its many polished surfaces become sized sapphire with the classically elegant. 11 TOTAL: 80 POINTS WatchTime Tests 2013 109 . However.WT_STI_2013_GP_02 23. 9 Movement (20): Fine embellishments adorn the very slim (3. elegant. won’t see its less-than-perfect legibility as beautiful 15 a serious flaw. it does so only from 11 to 19 and GIRARD-PERREGAUX VINTAGE 1945 XXL from 41 to 49 minutes. quate in many lighting situations. The crown. but the Vintage clasp are more simply made than the 1945 XXL was never intended to be an other components. but racy. the beauty of this minute. in-house GP3300 automatic movement. 9 window.08. Its legibility also suffers because of the crown works well. but rather simply made. 10 points): The This shortcoming can also be seen cut alligator strap and the folding when reading the time. Any change in the dial’s design. perfectly around the wrist and the folding clasp is also very comfortable. the absence of watch makes a statement.  movement is visible through a per- Wearing comfort (10): The case fits fectly sized sapphire window. historically easily smudged with fingerprints. The watch has a The handsome low contrast among the hands. but the maximum difference among the positions is too high. Strap and clasp (max. It’s a cut strap with neatly lacquered edges and fully glued leather layers. The handsome elegance ofGP3300 automatic the design. can only be pulled out by using your finger- nail. 3 ty and wearing comfort. The only problem that you notice when setting the time is that the minutes hand isn’t long enough to reach its corre- sponding scale all the way around the SCORES dial. the price is somewhat high. dial and movement. Setting the time is no problem. inspired design of the Vintage 1945 XXL Design (15): Classical. Case (10): The case is very well made. difficult to read the time to the nearest First and foremost. and the task becomes even easier because a stop-seconds function lets you synchro- nize the watch with a radio-controlled clock. 4 movement is visible and the hour numerals.

Carl F. We take the measure of this quirky chrono.qxp 23.13 11:37 Seite 110 Instead of the standard small elapsed-minutes hand. Bucherer’s Manero CentralChrono has an eye-catching. Pros + Good rate results HY R AP + Elaborately crafted case G + Well-balanced design T OTO AU -PH Cons KN OK LIA BY – Poor legibility JU OS – Simple strap and clasp Y B OT PH 110 WatchTime Tests 2013 . center-mounted one.WT_STI_2013_CFB_Manero_03.08.

08.13 11:37 Seite 111 WatchTime Tests 2013 111 .qxp 23.WT_STI_2013_CFB_Manero_03.

height = 7.4 mm a rapid-adjustment mechanism for the Case: Stainless steel. water resistant to 30 meters is a drawback. and al- ternately satin-finished and polished sur- faces catch your eye on the sides and lugs. minutes. The scales and subdials are Rate results: calibrated with very slender and finely (Deviations in seconds per 24 hours) spaced markings that are hard to read. Price: $7. Its shimmery dial changes skeletonized so it does not obscure the height = 14. but the dial’s poor legibility window.08. Etachron system to finely crown fits quite close to the case but can adjust the regulator. 24-hour display. The hands and wedge-shaped indices are neatly polished. which are further complemented by a wavy chamfer. Langensandstrasse 27. domed sapphire date display adds to the user-friendliness. function makes it easy to set the time.13 11:37 Seite 112 TEST Carl F. Its stainless-steel Manero not very bright. the Dial up +3 / +4 hour and minutes hands can hide large Dial down +3 / +4 portions of the subdials (although the in- Crown up +1 / +1 formation they convey is of secondary Crown down +5 / +5 ust when you thought you’d seen every importance). and decorative pat. There is much to like about this fully threaded back with sapphire chronograph. The push-pieces run smoothly and Movement: ETA 2892 with Dubois Dépraz module 2079. minutes hands and next to the indices. Moreover. a modified ETA 2892. we found were the slightly sharp under. Bucherer has brought nous material is applied sparingly and is Crown right +2 / +2 out another.WT_STI_2013_CFB_Manero_03. Average deviation +2. The vph. to which Bucherer bracelet. Both are well made. Switzerland The decorative patterns on the case are Reference number: 00. Functions: Hours. Incabloc shock be pulled out fairly easily. 44-hour power reserve. crystal that is nonreflective on both sides. time hands are ideal since the tips of the Average amplitude: ed in the center of the dial. weight = 108 grams from anthracite to brown. Variations: Silver dial with brown strap.2 hand. The only imperfections elapsed seconds and elapsed minutes. the lengths of the elapsed.800 don’t require much effort to operate. 47 jewels. A stop-seconds absorption. Bucherer Manero CentralChrono SPECS CARL F.2 mm. how the light hits it. the push. Crown left +2 / +3 possibly be. Luminous material has been precisely applied to the hour and 112 WatchTime Tests 2013 . the arrow-shaped Hanging positions 261° / 247° This chronograph has other playful head of the elapsed-minutes hand is Dimensions: Diameter = 42. automatic. date. and diameter = 30 mm.01 carefully crafted. We liked the appearance of the dial and the case. The Manero CentralChrono contains black or silver dial with stainless-steel terns further emphasize the play of color. idiosyncrasies. mount.qxp 23. pieces and the crown fit firmly in the case chronograph with central hands for without wiggling. Greatest deviation of rate 4/4 CentralChrono has its elapsed minutes However.33. There are also some prob- variation on the chronograph that could lems with nighttime legibility: the lumi. The polished hands and Strap and clasp: Crocodile strap with indices are highly reflective and likely to stainless-steel pronged buckle cause glare. Furthermore.100 case has a slightly concave bezel. BUCHERER MANERO CENTRALCHRONO Manufacturer: Carl F. along with the hands extend exactly into their respective Flat positions 288° / 275° elapsed seconds hand.5 mm. usually placed in a subdial. Bucherer. 28.700 A close look reveals that the multipart has added Dubois Dépraz’s module num. markings. Carl F.7 / +3. depending on peripheral scales. stop-seconds function sides of the case and lugs. depending on the time.08. $7.10910. CH-6002 Lucerne. small seconds. With chronograph switched off / on Furthermore.

WatchTime Tests 2013 113 .08.13 11:38 Seite 113 The transparent caseback reveals an unusual-looking rotor and a modified ETA 2892.WT_STI_2013_CFB_Manero_03.qxp 23.

13 11:38 Seite 114 The simple. rounded clasp doesn’t match the high-quality. complex case. 114 WatchTime Tests 2013 .08.qxp 23.WT_STI_2013_CFB_Manero_03.

is an engraving of the Bucherer logo. the ergonomically shaped Unfortunately. It’s crafted from polished chronograph showed very good rate switched on or off. Bucherer Manero CentralChrono SCORES CARL F. the caseback. products. BUCHERER MANERO CENTRALCHRONO Strap and clasp (max. which rival Movement (20): The time-honored ETA eral shortcomings: the slightest rubbing those of better-known manufacturers. http://www. but its only embellishment results. We used a Witschi timing Case (10): The case is very well crafted. offers an unconventional central display Rate results (10): The rate results are The pronged buckle is as simply made for elapsed minutes. watchtime. The movement. elements that one day. 5 also performs with impressively good BOASTS GOOD rate results. this watch module and attractive embellishment. neither too low nor exorbitantly high. We were pleased to the case offers pleasant surprises with find that these values remained nearly un- shaped sides and refined decorative patterns. the strap tapers window in the caseback. On 2892 in the “Top” version is upgraded causes lacquer to flake off and the leather the other hand. decorated.com/ ?p=11623 WatchTime Tests 2013 115 .qxp 23.08. 14 changed when we switched the chrono- graph on. the lower edge of the case is gain of slightly less than three seconds GOOD RATE somewhat sharp. The This brand obviously has high ambi- rounded bottom and ergonomically strap is padded and the craftsmanship is tions. Considering all these extras. using a standard caliber with an interesting Dubois Dépraz on the underside separates from the rest with an additional module. 3 second day. 11 the massive buckle. Its tops all this off with a handsome and dis- but this watch offers several interesting milled prong seems a bit too slender for tinctive design. the simple lacquered buckle and the watch’s low overall weight Wearing comfort (10): Good wearing crocodile strap isn’t on a par with the of 108 grams add to the wearing comfort. greatest deviation among all six positions PERFORMANCE. CENTRALCHRONO toward its ends and slides easily into This caliber isn’t merely handsome: it the buckle.100 price tag seems TOTAL: 80 POINTS inside its hole in the strap. which it expresses not only in its shaped clasp 9 mostly clean. but the details reveal sev. the $7. The Design (15): Harmonious dial design. but the pin fits firmly advantages. but also in its prices.WT_STI_2013_CFB_Manero_03. comfort thanks to low weight.13 11:39 Seite 115 TEST Carl F. is visible through a sapphire pieces operate smoothly. The rounded contours of have been coated with luminous material gleam dimly in the dark. the very good whether the chronograph is as the strap. the buckle is simply made. 9 with the chronograph switched off. 6 ber 2079. Furthermore. Our rate test on the wrist The strap tapers toward its ends and Legibility (5): The polished hands and showed somewhat less regular results: the is extremely supple: it’s very easy to slip indices are highly reflective and the watch lost two seconds after being worn the strap into the buckle and secure it markings are quite small. but gained four seconds the with the prong.  Scan here to download a wallpaper image of the Manero CentralChrono. elaborately crafted dial and case. 10 points): Lacquer flakes off the strap and the underside is easily separated from the rest of the leather strap. machine and found a small average daily LOOKS AND the push-pieces and the crown are firmly installed. 9 stainless steel. 14 of the strap. was four seconds. beautifully THE MANERO Operation (5): The crown and push. And the Manero CentralChrono Overall value (15): The price is high.

I Ne rI he re gt BY JENS KOCH PHOTOS BY NIK SCHÖLZEL rin plo plo Ex Ex 116 WatchTime Tests 2013 BACKGROUND PHOTO: FOTOLIA / MARTIN SCHWAN . Rolex made changes to the Explorer II both inside and out.13 11:44 Seite 116 In 2011. Find out how this intrepid watch w fared in our intense test.08.WT_STI_2013_ExplorerII_03 23.

08.13 11:45 Seite 117 Pros + Very well crafted + Terrific manufacture caliber + Easy-to-use second time zone Cons – High price – The magnifier above the date seldom improves legibility. WatchTime Tests 2013 117 .WT_STI_2013_ExplorerII_03 23.

Its size alone guarantees it a bold presence on and have remained essentially unchanged for decades. second time zone. Crown left +5 The watch’s larger size naturally improves legibility. the and its links. How- Crown right -3 ever.5 the dark: it gleams with a slightly bluish hue and keeps glowing Average amplitude: into the wee hours before dawn.08. the white dial on our tested watch makes it harder to read.5 mm. We think that a small but always visible date display would be more practical. This is true of the case.13 11:45 Seite 118 TEST Rolex Explorer II SPECS ROLEX OYSTER PERPETUAL EXPLORER II Manufacturer: Montre Rolex SA. Parachrom hairspring with Breguet terminal curve.47 mm Case: 904L stainless steel. The design as a whole is successful. the watch’s second-time-zone hand has been Dial down +3 restored to its original orange color – collectors nicknamed the Crown up +1 first Explorer II “the orange hand” in honor of this feature − Crown down +2 from the red of the prior version. diameter = 28. We found that it only enlarges the date display when you Price: $8. fully threaded back. Glucydur balance with Microstella regulating screws. Hanging positions 261° bility of the date display. 28. Oyster bracelet and Oysterlock safety folding clasp with fold-out extension piece n 2011. which would look very good on this watch. the immaculate hands and the finely printed dial. But with its medley of ble. seconds. Chromalight luminous material helps in Average deviation +1. Even careful scrutiny inherited from the historical Explorer II (see the following arti. as Rolex fans Dial up +1 will quickly note. weight = 152 g for it. your wrist. The magnifier is as much a part of a Dimensions: Diameter = 42 mm. minutes. Paraflex shock absorption. cle). which are joined without unnecessary play or wob- white dial and the single orange hand. The hands and indices are larger. 31 jewels.800 vph.3 mm. COSC certified. Flat positions 293° The built-in Cyclops window does little to improve the legi. but we still don’t see the need height = 12. Switzerland Reference number: 216570 Functions: Hours. the bracelet of the sloping steel bezel with its sunburst embellishment. The craftsmanship is impeccable. Fur- thermore.100 view it from directly above the dial. The date disappears entirely if you look at it from even a slight angle. Rue François-Dussaud 3–7. Every- modern-looking elements. automatic. Rolex intro- Rate results: duced a new version of the watch. too. CH-1211 Geneva. eliminating the magnifier would allow Rolex to use a domed crystal. (Deviations in seconds per 24 hours) larger than those on any other Rolex model. Those two models are symbols of the brand GMT-Master II. date display. through a loupe finds nothing to criticize. signature Rolex details and features thing radiates an aura of value and quality. crown protection. And. We like the combination with its neatly polished and satin-finished surfaces. 48-hour power reserve. to mark the Explorer II’s 40th anniversary.WT_STI_2013_ExplorerII_03 23. flat sapphire crystal. Rolex watch as is the crown logo. this watch doesn’t look quite as good as the Submariner or The case is larger than those of the Submariner and the the GMT-Master II. Greatest deviation of rate 8 even though the white-gold hands and indices are coated with a layer of black lacquer. stop-seconds function Movement: Manufacture Caliber 3187. height = 6. The case diameter has grown from 40 mm to 42 mm. 118 WatchTime Tests 2013 . threaded Twinlock crown. water resistant to 100 meters Bracelet and clasp: 904L stainless steel.

08. BACKGROUND PHOTO: FOTOLIA / TYLER OLSON .WT_STI_2013_ExplorerII_03 23.13 11:45 Seite 119 Caliber 3187 now has Rolex’s blue Parachrom hairspring and the brand’s own shock absorbers.

13 TOTAL: 88 POINTS The clasp. you can turn it to Legibility (5): The large hands and indices adjust the minutes hand: repositioning this hand also moves the are legible but do not contrast greatly 24-hour hand and the regular hour hand. the date display automatically Design (15): A successful design. (The seconds hand keeps running Case (10): The well-crafted steel case could while you reset the hour hand. is easy to use. if retro elements. Unlike a rubber or leather strap. 9 crown and is water resistant to 100 meters. with the white dial. con- tribute to good wearing comfort. The smooth back of the case and especially the convex links of the bracelet (which won’t pull the hairs off your wrist). 18 Rate results (10): Small average gain. It is designed so that even in its folded-out position. Finally. a steel bracelet has no “give. and its curved links. the date can be quickly reset out to its first position. If you advance the adds an extra measure of security. 9 hour hand across the date line. sturdy and good-looking. you can turn it to wind the barrel as usu. The embellishments deserve a close look. but the threaded crown hand continues to indicate the time at home. The clasp con- tains a concealed detail that’s very useful for a steel bracelet: an integrated 5-mm (3/16-inch) extension pivots out easily. 120 WatchTime Tests 2013 .) This function is very helpful have greater water resistance for an when you travel to a different time zone because the 24-hour expedition watch. First you pivot the safety stir- rup back and then you can open the sprung lever of the folding clasp. The bracelet tapers somewhat toward the clasp. the rate is within COSC standards. The blue luminous ma- terial continues to glow for a long time. but our six- position test found a high deviation among the various positions. The extension piece is exactly what you need to keep the bracelet comfortable. Pull it out a bit farther and you can use it to reset the hour accurate time setting. 4 Wearing comfort (10): Comfortable on Perfect craftsmanship is evident on the bezel.” so it doesn’t stretch when your wrist swells in hot weather or after vigorous activity. resetting is almost as quick as on a watch with a full. which adds to the wearing comfort because a wide steel bracelet can sometimes cut painfully into the wrist BACKGROUND PHOTO: FOTOLIA / TYLER OLSON when you move quickly. 10 points): The safety folding clasp and steel bracelet are The watch is equipped with Rolex’s threaded Twinlock very well made. the owner gets a very high-quality watch.08. After you pull it and to use.13 11:45 Seite 120 TEST Rolex Explorer II SCORES ROLEX EXPLORER II Bracelet and clasp (max. 10 Movement (20): The well-constructed manufacture movement has been improved with Rolex’s own shock absorbers and hairspring. the wrist thanks to the narrow bracelet which has sunburst brushing and polished sides. Since it can advance or retreat timeless classic. 5 hand in hourly increments. but not a jumps one day forward or back. you can’t tell the difference between it and the rest of the bracelet. 8 Overall value (15): Although the price is high. and the stop-seconds function facilitates al. This construction is also extremely rugged.WT_STI_2013_ExplorerII_03 23. The crown is well Operation (5): The crown is easy to grasp protected on either side yet is easy to unscrew. too. 12 you pull the crown out to its third position. We also like the built- in extension piece in the clasp. Typical Rolex features have as needed. been modernized and are juxtaposed with fledged quick-reset mechanism for the date display.

Explorer II is the blue Parachrom hairspring: made from an al.watchtime.08. Rolex has so thoroughly industrialized its manufacturing processes that even polishing is performed by robots.WT_STI_2013_ExplorerII_03 23. this one ends in a Breguet BACKGROUND PHOTO: FOTOLIA / STAPHY curve. espe- case and the bracelet. We quantified the greatest deviation of rate at eight seconds. is due to the fact that the de- steel. the Explorer II’s sister watch. But if ishes the sides and satin-finishes the upper surfaces on both the you like the Explorer II.  ROLEX HAS ALSO improved the movement by incorporating its newly developed Paraflex shock absorbers. The bal- ance has Microstella screws along its inside to eliminate the need for a regulator. WatchTime Tests 2013 121 . But we also tested the sixth position (crown right). A person who wants a one-of-a-kind watch that he or she will never see on anyone else’s wrist usually doesn’t choose a Rolex. hands. a feature that’s useful everywhere. loy of niobium and zirconium and coated with a layer of oxide. and discovered that the rate results here deviated from the others. Rolex is known for accurate timekeeping and our tested watch upheld this reputation. bearing Rolex’s crown logo. The movement is now called Caliber 3187. brushing adorns steel parts and circular graining embellishes the plate. is handsome.5 and two seconds per day. which assures that it can “breathe” regularly.13 11:45 Seite 121 Like all of Rolex’s hairsprings. and even the holes for screws and jewels have polished chamfering. sign doesn’t have quite the appeal of classic Rolex models. you are buying a watch with a very high level of quality. The Paraflex solution is superior to its predecessors because after a sharp blow hits the watch. The edges of flat parts are beveled and polished. which is the one that occurs least frequently in practical use. Our Witschi Chronoscope X1 tim- ing machine confirmed that Rolex’s specialists had carefully ad- justed the watch in five positions. A special tool lets a watchmaker adjust these tiny screws without having to first remove the balance from the movement. the Explorer II with a white dial is an excep- The folding clasp. None of Rolex’s sports watches has a transparent back. The Explorer II kept time with nearly perfect precision on the wrist. However. Rolex never uses a conventional balance cock (which is secured to the mainplate at one end only). by all means go ahead and buy it. but opts instead for a sturdier balance bridge. It’s also less vulnerable http://www.com/?p=19367 to damage from hard knocks than conventional balance springs. The average gain is very good: +1. however. Scan here to read the article.5 seconds. Rolex pol. it’s wholly unaffected by magnetic fields.100). This detail. tion to this rule: it looks somewhat unusual for a Rolex and you’ll seldom see it on the wrist of the person seated next to you on an airplane. sturdy and easy to use. bracelets and movements. but the hidden movement is nonetheless beautifully decorated. the Paraflex system more reliably and more precisely brings the bal- ance staff back to its original position. which is highly resistant to corrosive salt water. Connoisseurs can’t expect elaborate manual engravings. as specified by COSC. in 2011. enhances the accuracy of the rate. Sun- burst patterns decorate the wheels. Another bonus: there are no long waiting lists. While the price of the Explorer II is relatively high ($8. cially since it also offers the convenience of a second time zone. but they can expect – and they invariably get – perfectly crafted cases. where it gained between 1. although the Explor- er II passes COSC’s chronometer test. not just in the Arctic. too. Another new detail in the WatchTime tested the Explorer. Both the bracelet and the case are made from 904L stainless The speedy availability.

HELP CAVE EXPLORERS During its lifetime. a refer- ence to the “arrow shaped” 24-hour hand (freccia means ORIGINALLY INTENDED TO “arrow” in Italian). The original model 1655 was produced through 1982. to the point of not knowing day An original 1655 from night. Rolex registered the Explorer name in Geneva in January 1953. balloon- ists. THE 24-HOUR HAND WAS Italian collectors dubbed it the “Freccione” Explorer. the Explorer II was used by a vari- ety of adventurers. although there is dis- agreement about whether McQueen ever wore the watch. bracelets. and other TELL DAY FROM NIGHT. and sportsmen ranging from polo players to champion skier Jean-Claude Killy. Advertising includ- ed testimonials from volcanologists. for improved legi- bility. for obvious reasons.WT_STI_2013_ExplorerII_03 23. Everest in May of that year. many simply call it the “orange hand” Explorer. and Oyster Perpetuals used by other expedi- tions prior to 1953. and the company sup- plied early Explorers to Sir Edmund Hillary’s expedition. In 1971. aimed at those who explore below ground – known as speleologists or spelunkers. polar explorers. scientists.13 11:45 Seite 122 TEST Rolex Explorer II The Explorer II Through the Decades The Explorer II: a watch for adventurers Both the original Explorer and the Explorer II were created as tool watches for adventurers of all types. To address this concern. As the or- ange hand could not be set independently of the primary hour hand.m. the orange hand acted as an a. bezels. this model picked up several nicknames. The watches used by the Hillary expedition. The 1016 Explorer was produced from 1963 through 1989. and athletes. these cave explor- ers can lose all sense of time. And of course. and it became an instantly recognizable Rolex icon that is prized by collectors today. hands. it did not function as a GMT or second-time-zone hand. which reached the summit of Mt. the 1655 went through several iterations as Rolex changed the dials. Over the years. were supplied with special lubricants de- signed to function in extreme temperatures without changing viscosity (which can affect timekeeping). Making one trip around the dial per day. Early Explorers were fitted with high-contrast dials. Rolex launched the Explorer II. Like the original Explorer. indicator./p.m. Some refer to it as the “Steve McQueen” Explorer. 122 WatchTime Tests 2013 . After long periods underground in the dark.08. the Explorer II featured an “orange hand” Explorer II oversized luminous orange hand that operated in conjunction with a fixed 24-hour bezel. and with extra-strong cases.

and the new version brought significant changes. and the new version recap- tures the original 1655’s signature visual cue. Some of the changes are visible only to the trained eye. only in stainless steel. The latter came to be known by collectors as “spider web” dials. In 1989. there are white. and. updates to the Oyster bracelet. which allowed the owner to set the primary hour hand forward or back in one-hour increments while the seconds continued to run. bolder numbers. Important technical updates included a sapphire crystal and a new Caliber 3085 movement with an independently adjustable 24-hour hand that enabled the Explorer II to track two time zones. The 16550 brought many updates and changes. The new Explorer II model 16550 was also available with black or white dials. In 2007. The trademark “big orange hand” was replaced by a long. Over time. The new movement is protected by a larger 42-mm case.WT_STI_2013_ExplorerII_03 23. powered by a new Caliber 3187 movement with proprietary Paraflex shock protection and the blue Parachrom hairspring. Some of the new dials did not age as well as others. which featured a new Caliber 3185 movement.13 11:46 Seite 123 Photo courtesy of Antiquorum components. The distinctive big orange hand is back. the model 16550 replaced the 1655. Bear- ing model number 216570. this latest Explorer II marks the third major makeover since the 1971 launch. The 16570 brought subtle upgrades. In 1982. leading some to refer to it as a transitional model. From 2008 on. The original model was available only with a black dial. and some black dials developed small surface cracks. The new bracelet also offers the Easy Link feature that allows instant 5-mm expansion for comfort on hot days. Rolex began producing the 16570 with the improved 3186 movement. while the primary hour hand adopted the Rolex skeleton or “Mercedes” style. The satinized bezel featured larger. white dials turned a pleasing cream color. This allowed the owner to change the local time without affecting the timekeeping. the 16570 continued without major changes until the current model was launched at Baselworld in 2011.and black-dial versions. like all Explorers to this day. – MIKE DISHER Photo courtesy of Antiquorum WatchTime Tests 2013 123 . The new Refer- ence 77210 bracelet features solid center links and a solid one-piece clasp machined from a block of 904L stainless steel. changes to the shape of the Rolex crown on the dial. This movement featured the in-house Rolex Parachrom Blu hairspring and an improved wheel train with tighter tolerances. The 16550 Explorer II was produced for seven years – a relatively short span for Rolex. it was replaced by the model 16570. slen- der red hand with a smaller luminous triangle at the tip. including an improved movement. The changes include modifi- cations to fonts used on dials and bezels. while others are more noticeable.08. and a change to the seconds hand from the original straight or “needle” shape to one with small circles or dots on the short and long ends to aid legibility. As before.

13 12:05 Seite 124 Pros + Eye-catching design + Impeccable craftsmanship + Comfortable on the wrist + Innovative material Cons – Less than ideal legibility – Irregular rate 124 WatchTime Tests 2013 .08.WT_STI_2013_Chanel_02 23.

Now we see how it functions. GRAY BY JULIA KNAUT PHOTOS BY OK-PHOTOGRAPHY . titanium- ceramic case.08. lightweight. Chanel’s J12 Chromatic is a triumph of form.WT_STI_2013_Chanel_02 23.13 12:05 Seite 125 SHADES OF With its shiny.

In creating that watch. the case has a polished surface that adopts the tonality of its surroundings. Chanel took over G&F Châtelain in 1993. Rather than a standard monochrome finish. is its col- or. he most difficult feature to describe on Chanel’s J12 Chromatic watch. a Swiss firm based in La Chaux-de-Fonds that has specialized in assembling watches and setting precious stones since 1947. Like a chameleon (which was the watch’s name in its developmental phase). After the launch of its second model. and today Chanel ranks among the world’s best-known lux- ury brands.” its closest approximation is gleaming anthracite.08. the Mademoiselle. and its 126 WatchTime Tests 2013 . Over the years. a contrast with the black and white cases of earlier J12 mod- els. a company that began when Gabrielle Bonheur (“Coco”) Chanel opened her first fashion boutique in Paris in 1918.WT_STI_2013_Chanel_02 23. the business expanded to sell not only fashionable clothing but perfumes and accessories as well. it changes its color to suit its environment. Chanel enlisted the expertise of G&F Châtelain. Change and adaptation have always been hallmarks at Chanel. Too eye-catching to be called simply “gray. which de- buted at the beginning of 2011.13 12:05 Seite 126 TEST Chanel J12 Chromatic THE CHROMATIC’S COMBINATION OF TITANIUM-CERAMIC AND STAINLESS STEEL MAKES IT NOT ONLY LIGHTER THAN AN ALL-STEEL WATCH BUT ALSO LIGHTER THAN OTHER J12 MODELS WITH CERAMIC CASES. Chanel added watches to its core seg- ments of fashions and fragrances in 1987: its first wristwatch was appropriately christened the Première. which it reflects as a dark shimmer.

case- screws. was Chanel’s first collec- Crown down +1 tion with mechanical movements. stain- less-steel caseback held in place by eight house as possible. Incabloc shock absorption. stop-seconds function Movement: ETA 2892 “Elaboré. 42-hour power reserve. CH-2300 La Chaux-de-Fonds. Allée du Laser 18.300 Vickers. which has a hardness of only 1. bezel turns in much of the manufacturing process in only one direction.900 . WHICH debuted at the turn of the millennium. water resistant to 200 meters component manufacturing and gemstone Bracelet and clasp: Polished titanium. stainless steel From the start. and what Variations: Various sizes (41 mm.WT_STI_2013_Chanel_02 23.” auto- matic. For technical reasons. (Deviation in seconds per 24 hours) like Giulio Papi of Renaud et Papi for the Dial up +4 Rétrograde Mystérieuse model.000) dustry.300 look beautiful. minutes. 21 jewels. yet harder (1. AP equipped its own Flat positions 280° Caliber 3120 with a high-tech ceramic Hanging positions 249° rotor from Chanel. date. a blend of titanium and ceram- ic reacts less strongly than steel to extreme heat or cold. how- ever.800 vph. Caliber 3125 was Average deviation 2. caseback.08. diameter = 25. Case: Titanium-ceramic. Chanel wanted to bring as (bezel. height = 3. in turn. Chanel manufactures the J12’s sprung clasp. Not only does this new compound Price: $6. What separates the J12 Chromatic height = 11 mm. 28.13 12:05 Seite 127 SPECS CHANEL J12 CHROMATIC Manufacturer: G&F Châtelain. In keeping with Chanel’s tradition. weight = 130 grams from the rest of the collection. high-tech ceramic. Switzerland Reference number: H 2979 Functions: Hours. are its case 38 mm. which is Dial down +5 unique in the watch industry. gives it its distinctive color. the Chromatic’s bezel.2 built especially for Chanel by Audemars Average amplitude: Piguet.$55. central seconds. 33 mm). with round or baguette components made of titanium-ceramic. The brand earned further renown clasp made of stainless steel through cooperative arrangements with Rate results: great names in the watchmaking industry. The Crown left +8 success of this high-tech ceramic watch Crown right –5 prompted the brand to venture into horo- Greatest deviation of rate 13 logical complications. diamonds.6 mm watches have been made there ever since. Etachron index regulation with eccentric. Watch assembly.650 Vickers) and more scratch-resistant than its base material. the back of its case and its clasp are made of steel. Dimensions: Diameter = 38 mm. sapphire crystal. the J12 Chromatic boasts a design that’s WatchTime Tests 2013 127 .6 mm. crown). Crown up 0 THE J12. Fur- thermore. quartz or mechanical used here for the first time in the watch in- movement ($5. setting all take place in Chanel’s own ate- ceramic bracelet with double-folding liers. it’s also highly functional: the combination of high-tech ceramic and titanium makes the hybrid substance un- usually lightweight.

12 TOTAL: 77 POINTS 128 WatchTime Tests 2013 . 10 points): The bracelet is made of titanium- ceramic and is very well crafted. but it shows smudges easily.WT_STI_2013_Chanel_02 23. large- series ETA 2892 without adornment. 14 Legibility (5): Low contrast between the dial. together with the long counterweight on the sec- onds hand. 10 Rate results (10): The timing machine and the wearing test both recorded only a minimal daily gain.08. 9 Design (15): The lavishly detailed design is harmonious and looks very elegant in combination with the shimmery color scheme. the caseback is unfortunately not made of ceramic. 9 Operation (5): The folding clasp is easy to grasp and operate. this type of sturdy double-folding clasp is made only by Chanel. which quickly warms to skin temperature. but the unusual case material makes this time- piece special in its design and its feel. but the greatest difference among the several positions was very large.13 12:06 Seite 128 TEST Chanel J12 Chromatic SCORES CHANEL J12 CHROMATIC Bracelet and clasp (max. 4 Case (10): Thoroughly well crafted and highly water resistant. detract from the legibility. 3 Wearing comfort (10): Very pleasant to wear thanks to the polished surfaces and titanium-ceramic case. 7 Overall value (15): Manufacture watches are offered in this price range. 9 Movement (20): A tried-and-true. but only after some practice. hands and hour numerals.

For example. cover the tripartite sprung clasp. shiny links completely arrangement. not always easily distinguishable. designed and very well crafted. The connected to the bracelet. The watch’s smooth surfaces make it ished surfaces that suits this watch perfect. All in all. where we find this clasp. sprung clasp. full 13 seconds. minimal average daily gain of 2. juxtaposition of satin-finished and pol. tioned very close to the case. which is unique in the The date is shown in a window between 4 watch industry and one of the signature o’clock and 5 o’clock. Chanel performs many of the steps in The dial is low-contrast. which has brightly polished surfaces. as it would be on a divers’ watch. along with the movement. very comfortable for daily wear. The im. which. ceramic. WatchTime Tests 2013 129 .13 12:06 Seite 129 Diagonally angled lugs make a har- monious transition between the case and the bracelet. Chanel itself makes the special hands for seconds. long counterweight on the tail end of the The watch contains a non-embellished seconds hand makes it difficult to read version of the familiar ETA Caliber 2892. the time at a glance. to a depth of Left: the ETA 2892.  when the watch is opened. than an all-steel watch. matic is not its timekeeping or technical back and the bracelet is unconventional: complexity but the innovative material only the upper part of the case can be used for its case and the multifaceted removed. The combination of a broad bezel and a combination of titanium-ceramic and comparatively small dial won’t appeal to steel make it not only lighter (130 grams) everyone. bracelet’s endmost elements are posi- tailed. A price of $6. but it is extremely sturdy and the same typeface used on the dial and a cannot pop open accidentally. It takes a The tasteful styling of the Chromatic’s bit of practice to get used to operating dial continues on the bezel. and the but it does not produce the movement. chromatic effects it offers. watch’s water resistance. have only minimal play. Diametrically um-plated numerals are placed in a radial opposite the case. test. unfortunately. especially with brushed steel back is solidly one without a manufacture movement. than the other J12 models in high-tech tatively into place. But the primary attraction of the Chro- movable connection between the case. The lighter weight enhances the In the area of legibility. these individual positions was rather large. features of the J12 collection. The ly. is also noteworthy. which clicks authori.08. but the well-crafted. a details are used more playfully than func. the J12’s When we tested the watch on a Witschi design features – like the broad bezel and timing machine. the numerals are the watch’s production in its own ateliers. The dial has a guilloché-embell. minutes and hours. but also lighter grip rotatable bezel. should win many fans. easy-to. 200 meters. A con- unconventional construction.300 seems rather expen- The polished titanium-ceramic case sive for a three-handed watch. where they ished circular margin onto which rhodi. however. are easy to smudge with fingerprints. this wearing comfort. the difference among the achieve a well-balanced design. but to onds.2 sec- cally seen on a divers’ watch. This contrasts with the ver. The Chromatic gained a tionally here. However.WT_STI_2013_Chanel_02 23. creating tically satin-finished disk that comprises the impression of an uninterrupted ban- the inner portion of the dial. we discovered only a luminous elements – are of the type typi. The screwed In this watch’s crown is easy to grasp and turn. watch could stand some improvement. the bezel isn’t mere one second per day in the wearing calibrated with individual minutes mark. Luminous material coats the bracelet. ings. Small index gle: nothing but a slightly wider gap is strokes form a minutes circle around the visible between the two halves of the flange. The simultaneously elegant and richly de. the venient stop-seconds function makes it caseback is immovably easy to set the time to the second.

08.13 13:09 Seite 130 130 WatchTime Tests 2013 .WT_STI_2013_AP_Thin_02 23.

08. Pros + Celebrated design + Outstanding craftsmanship + Refined movement BY JENS KOCH PHOTOS BY NIK SCHÖLZEL AND MARCUS KRÜGER Cons – Imprecise rate – High price WatchTime Tests 2013 131 .13 13:09 Seite 131 The new Extra-Thin 39MM Royal Oak from Audemars Piguet is the spitting image of the original Royal Oak from 1972. See how it held up during the less-than-royal treatment of a WatchTime test.WT_STI_2013_AP_Thin_02 23.

the Royal Oak was advertised as CH-1348 Le Brassus. has been transformed over the years into Glucydur balance. Crown left +2 The new model is the spitting image Crown right -13 of the old one. we examined the Extra-Thin inside safety buttons and out and tested its timekeeping ability. except for two small dif- Greatest deviation of rate 20 ferences: the date window. resembling a hobnail design. 40-hour the Royal Oak’s 40th anniversary.330 Swiss 15202ST. Thin 39MM. Despite its high price. the brand’s most successful model and 36 jewels. One of them is the Extra. is neither too Crown down +3 large nor too small. The AP logo Flat positions 315° has returned to the lower half of the dial Hanging positions 280° rather than serving as the index at 12 Dimensions: Diameter = 39 mm. Dial down +7 however. this case size. The indices and hands on this Variations: Rose gold ($50. Route de France 16.1 mm. in which a 132 WatchTime Tests 2013 . SPECS designed by Gérald Genta and launched AUDEMARS PIGUET in 1972.13 13:09 Seite 132 TEST Audemars Piguet Extra-Thin Royal Oak 39MM he world of watches contains only a few true icons. With monocoque case. tion. To make the dial.1 mm thick. as the Crown up -13 watch’s name suggests. o’clock. One of these is the Royal Oak. Nivachoc shock absorption. a svelte 8. mars Piguet brought out eight new Royal height = 3. Case: Stainless steel.1240ST. stainless-steel folding clasp with us. The watch started a trend that EXTRA-THIN ROYAL OAK 39MM continues to this day: luxury sports Manufacturer: Manufacture d’Horlogerie watches made of steel. automatic. as it does in other current Royal height = 8. 39 mm.4 mm.WT_STI_2013_AP_Thin_02 23.01 francs. the Royal Oak has become Movement: 2121. which was for- Average deviation -1. water resistant to 50 meters department at Wempe Jewelers in Munich. and the Audemars Piguet name is Average amplitude: now in a different typeface. date because of it. 19. In 2012. as the original.00. Dial up +7 name “Jumbo. who disassembled the watch for Bracelet and clasp: Stainless-steel bracelet. window of sapphire in the help of a watchmaker in the service the caseback. which resembles chasing.” By today’s standards. Audemars Piguet used an engraving technique known as ramolayé. fine adjustment via numerous variations. diameter = 28.2 merly white. while those on other Price: $22.05 mm Oak models. Rate results: The Extra-Thin. which in 1972 (Deviations in seconds per 24 hours) seemed so large that it earned the nick. The dial has the same petite tapisserie pattern. minutes. is now the same color as the dial.400) model are rounded. weight = 111 grams Oaks.800 vph. is the same size as the original. power reserve.08.500 Royal Oak models are more complex and have chamfers. Switzerland “an homage to steel” and cost as much as Reference number: an elegant gold watch: 3. an automatic. or perhaps Functions: Hours. At its introduc- Audemars Piguet. sapphire crystal. Aude. to mark weight screws on the balance.

Elaborate craftsmanship can also be seen in the gradually tapering bracelet: no two links are identical and even the con- nectors between adjacent links vary in size. and the straight surfaces of the case incline toward the bracelet at a 45-degree angle. with satin-finished surfaces and polished chamfers. along with beveled and polished THE ORIGINAL ROYAL OAK FROM 1972 WAS edges like those on the bracelet’s compo- nents. identical to those used to make the original dials. AP’s logo is engraved on the clasp. which are made of white gold.WT_STI_2013_AP_Thin_02 23. to complete this step. the crosspiece expands to hold the connector in place. The case is elaborately crafted.13 13:09 Seite 133 design embossed with a graver is filed down to smooth its edges. The clasp is double folding and its in- ner piece is milled. Several over- lapping patterns must be applied to cre- ate this intricate design. which shows that the connectors are held in place by springy crosspieces. and a full hour is needed for the machines. What holds the bracelet together remains a mystery until you consult a diagram. NICKNAMED "JUMBO" BECAUSE OF ITS 39-MM The bracelet is designed so it won’t pinch the little hairs on the back of the wrist. The per- fectly integrated bracelet has been modi- fied so that the bracelet and the case are exactly the same thickness where they meet. furnished by Audemars Piguet. Many special tools had to be made to accomplish this manufacturing feat.08. The design plays cleverly with geometry: the octagonal bezel is pierced by screws with hexagonal heads.) Viewed from the side. DIAMETER. THE EXTRA-THIN. (On the original mod- el it was made of sheet metal. WatchTime Tests 2013 133 . cellent wearing comfort. IS NOW ABOUT AVERAGE IN SIZE. ALSO 39 MM The clasp’s flat construction and its smooth underside further enhance the ex- WIDE. the two safety buttons have the same shape as the links of the bracelet. When the tool is withdrawn and the crosspiece is released. A slender tool is used to compress each crosspiece inside its link before the connector is in- serted.

ed out from the front. we took a closer look which you can admire automatic Caliber at the construction of the case and the 2121. in the first model. just 3. teners. the gasket and a er brands. as Caliber 1120. The screws in the cause Caliber 2121. This movement enables We found the architecture of the case the Royal Oak to be extremely thin be. After un- ibers with a central rotor. OF THE SLIMMEST ment was also used in Patek Philippe’s along with the dial and hands. from outside the watch. without a date dis. a watchmaker can Jaeger-LeCoultre developed the lift off. is so large it com. It is currently used by metal ring that’s used as a flange.05 mm thick. CALIBERS WITH A 255 with date display). tend to the screws in the bezel. back are surrounded by bushings that ex- is one of the slimmest self-winding cal. which is visible 1976. The same move. AFTER THE WATCHMAKER disassem- this one has a sapphire back through bled our test watch. especially interesting.08. fastening these screws. can be lift- porthole-shaped Nautilus (Caliber 28. Another notewor.13 13:09 Seite 134 TEST Audemars Piguet Extra-Thin Royal Oak 39MM A loupe is needed to fully appreciate the complexity of the ramolayé technique on the Royal Oak’s dial. next step is to extract the crown and the play. 134 WatchTime Tests 2013 . The CALIBER 2121 IS ONE Vacheron Constantin. CENTRAL ROTOR. in succession. the same movement that was used movement. the front crystal. which debuted in thy detail: the gasket. the bezel and its fas- movement for Audemars Piguet and oth.WT_STI_2013_AP_Thin_02 23. Unlike the original monocoque case. multipart winding stem so the movement.

08.13 13:10 Seite 135 A watchmaker from Wempe’s service department examining the Royal Oak we used in our test The parts of the case after the movement has been removed WatchTime Tests 2013 135 .WT_STI_2013_AP_Thin_02 23.

beveled and polished edges on the flat surfaces. Other decora- tive features include Geneva waves on the bridges. and sunburst patterns etched on- to the wheels. a few of the levers for switching the date are stamped from The beautifully embellished Caliber 2121 136 WatchTime Tests 2013 . he loosened the screws that affix the dial’s “feet” to the plate and removed the dial. However. polished heads on the screws. This prevents water from reaching the movement even if it pene- trates from above. where we could see circular graining. This brought a marvelous landscape into view on the dial side of the movement. satin-fin- ished steel components. and its out- er segment repeats the petite tapisserie pattern that’s on the dial. The construction is very similar to that of the original model. handsome embell- ishments adorn the rotor side of the movement. A polished AP logo is incor- porated into the skeletonized and satin- finished rose-gold rotor itself.08. polished screw heads and a sunburst pattern on the bar- rel. through the screw holes in the bezel. milled sinks for the screws and jewels. The embellishments also extend onto surfaces that are ordinarily hidden from view. As we first saw by looking through the sapphire caseback.13 13:10 Seite 136 pletely surrounds the screws and their bushings.WT_STI_2013_AP_Thin_02 23. After the watchmaker lifted off the hands using a special tool.

Indeed. The bar.WT_STI_2013_AP_Thin_02 23. sheet metal and some tiny scratches can four tiny ruby rollers that are borne in be seen on them. 1972: ITS VERY prevent the rotor from striking against its The bridges for the self-winding bridges. Circular graining adorns the under- rel is fastened on only one side: this “fly. justments can be made with the aid of six ment so slender. To quency of 19. ance and the escape wheel each have Kif IMPORTANT But a flying barrel isn’t the only trick shock absorbers on both ends. The tinctive yet very restrained sound.800 vph. spring can breathe freely because fine ad- FEATURE WITH ITS gineers dreamed up to make the move. date ring is borne on four rubies. all of the move- THE EXTRA-THIN ing” (cantilevered) construction is a small ment’s components boast embellishments sacrifice that must be made to achieve on their undersides. side of the rotor.13 13:10 Seite 137 TEST Audemars Piguet Extra-Thin Royal Oak 39MM The balance wheel has six weights for fine adjustment. This generates a dis- quite as finely made as they should.08. so these parts don’t look their own bridges. Ceramic ball bearings (Continued on page 140) WatchTime Tests 2013 137 . around the entire movement and runs on under the rotor. The staffs of the bal- SHARES ONE ultra-thinness. which oscillates at the uncommon fre- ning on conventional ball bearings. FOREBEAR FROM glides atop ruby rollers rather than run. The hair- that Audemars Piguet’s designers and en. Another is the rotor that tiny weights along the rim of the balance. it’s screwed to a ring that extends mechanism and for the escape wheel are HIGH PRICE. The diagram on the balance bridge shows which way to turn the weights to adjust the rate.

WT_STI_2013_AP_Thin_02 23.08.13 13:10 Seite 138 TEST Audemars Piguet Extra-Thin Royal Oak 39MM 138 WatchTime Tests 2013 .

WatchTime Tests 2013 139 .13 13:11 Seite 139 Wempe's watchmaker disassembled the movement so that we could get a close look at its components.08.WT_STI_2013_AP_Thin_02 23.

The date display. the crown works well. To set the date. which include large differences between vanced. ment: the movement’s slimness only part. and 12:30 a. one or the other of which en. the hour hand must be repeatedly turned swinging is transmitted by a rocker with The same is true for the fine adjust. however. shape.08. say. 140 WatchTime Tests 2013 . points. have been set with greater precision: it nism for the date display. p. 20 days. This can be especial- gages. We’re content to ly details that we could find to criticize.13 13:11 Seite 140 TEST Audemars Piguet Extra-Thin Royal Oak 39MM (Continued from page 137) minimize friction for the first transmis. ly difficult if the date needs to be ad- rotor’s rotation.m. depending on the direction of the ly excuses the disappointing rate results.m. the individual positions. But these are the on- As far as a sharp eye could detect. The movement is also decorated on the dial side. could but we would like a rapid-reset mecha- sion wheel in the winding mechanism. forward and backward between 8:30 two wheels.WT_STI_2013_AP_Thin_02 23. The energy from the rotor’s bidirectional changes 90 seconds after midnight. everything has been cleanly assembled live without a stop-seconds function since Despite its unconventional hexagonal and sufficiently lubricated at the bearing this watch doesn’t have a seconds hand.

luminous substance enhances nighttime legibility. 9 Movement (20): Very slender. lightweight and flat on the wrist. handsomely decorated movement with freely breathing hairspring 17 After the bridges. http://www. For that money you could buy an elegant gold wristwatch with a manufacture caliber.8 mm high. 10 points): Excellent craftsmanship and elaborate construction 10 Operation (5): The crown is easy to use. 15 Legibility (5): Very good contrast between the hands and the dial. TOTAL: 85 POINTS ture with its forebear from 1972: its very high price.500. removed.08. you could buy Audemars Piguet’s newly revamped Self-Winding Royal Oak. 5 Wearing comfort (10): Pleasant. but a mechanism to adjust the bracelet’s length on hot days would be a welcome addition.600 less. WatchTime’s 2010 has its own special appeal. 4 the ruby rollers on which the rotor turns. ey. just 9.com/ watch. the rocker are much too large and the average rate mechanism of the automatic winding system and is slightly slow. but there’s no rapid-reset mechanism for the date display. Overall value (15): The extremely high price is partly justified by the perfect craftsmanship and elaborate construc- tion of the case and movement. For $5. the Royal Oak is regarded as an icon of watch design. you can see the gear train. $22. which contains the manufacture Caliber 3120. this could be your dream-come-true watchtime. the balance deviations among the various positions bridge with its sunburst decorations. cocks and balance have been Rate results (10): Disappointing.WT_STI_2013_AP_Thin_02 23. cumbed to its charms and have the mon. 4 Case (10): Perfect craftsmanship meets interesting construction. Audemars Piguet charges a hefty pre- mium for the Extra-Thin’s very slim movement. so Scan here to read close to that of the original Royal Oak. It has a seconds hand and is also quite thin.13 13:11 Seite 141 SCORES AUDEMARS PIGUET EXTRA-THIN ROYAL OAK 39MM Bracelet and clasp (max. 11 The Extra-Thin shares one other fea. but the watch’s design. If you’ve suc.  ?attachment_id=21479 WatchTime Tests 2013 141 . corporate profile of Audemars Piguet. 10 Design (15): A successful and faithfully detailed reconstruction of the original model.

where the Scubamarine Diving A diver’s watch can also rub against oth- School teaches its classes. er parts of his diving equipment. Some of under water? How precisely can a diver the watches returned from the excursion set the rotating bezel without having to entirely unscathed while others limped take off his gloves? And can the straps or home with war wounds. we looked at the effects of the dive on the watches themselves. We discovered significant differences facturers take their claim of producing in the way these watches withstood our truly dive-capable watches. when a diver slips the watch over his suit.08.000 to $10. Are the time rigorous test as well as how well suited of day and the diving time easy to read they were for use under water. Our job was to ming pool. the details on the following pages.500.WT_STI_2013_Divers_02 23. ow low will a journalist go low the watches to be worn over the H to test a group of divers’ watches in real-life situa- tions – under water. Germany.13 12:30 Seite 142 WATER BABIES BY ALEXANDER KRUPP PHOTOS BY OK-PHOTOGRAPHY We see how four divers’ watches withstand the rigors of actual diving. Scratch- es and marks are to be expected because tors went 11 feet under water – the depth the watch rubs against the sleeve’s zipper of the indoor swimming pool near Ulm. well-known brands. over the sleeve of a wetsuit and as a supplement to technical diving equipment? Our edi- sleeves of diving suits. You can find all bracelets be lengthened sufficiently to al. some of which are thicker than others? Finally. determine just how seriously their manu. Their prices range rocks or – in our test – the tile in a swim- from $3. or against coral. some We tested divers’ watches from four made of hard metal. 142 WatchTime Tests 2013 .

com/?attachment_id=21480 WatchTime Tests 2013 143 . http://www.08.WT_STI_2013_Divers_02 23.13 12:30 Seite 143 Scan here to read our 2011 comparative test of divers’ watches.watchtime.

luminous yellow when the lights Bracelet and clasp: Titanium bracelet. The Dial up +7 Master Diver’s dial for the Tubbataha. 28.13 12:30 Seite 144 COMPARATIVE TEST Divers’ Watches ORIS SPECS TUBBATAHA LIMITED EDITION Tubbataha Limited Edition Functions: Minutes. Like that watch. They also made the minutes Crown down +9 hand wider and gave it an eye-catching. stop-seconds function Movement: Modified Sellita SW 220.800) Limited edition of 2. 144 WatchTime Tests 2013 .000 Pros + Ceramic bezel clicks firmly into position. fine adjustment aking its name from a Philip. The crystal that’s nonreflective on the inside. The watch’s face wasn’t (Deviations in seconds per 24 hours) while he’s under water. even in murky 38-hour power reserve preserve.WT_STI_2013_Divers_02 23. thus further increasing the already folding clasp with safety buttons and onds. Dial down +8 arrangement except for a slightly enlarged Crown up +8 hour display.800 vph. quick-release extension divers’ watch because the minute is the The bezel has scratch-resistant ceram. orange used for the minutes hand. The subdials gleam an intense blue in Dimensions: Diameter = 46 mm.5 mm.8 very legible. This arrangement works well on a bold contrast. go out. may Greatest deviation of rate 2 not suit the landlubber: the minutes are Average deviation +7. the in- back with printed mineral crystal inset. so this hand can also be used to Case: Titanium case with domed sapphire Limited Edition bears a strong show that the watch is still running. hand and subdials for the hours and sec. weight = 150 grams Variations: With rubber strap ($2. date. only scratches appeared on the sides of moving the subdials to a symmetrical the case and on the clasp. + High contrast on the dial and bezel + Well-made divers’ extension piece for the bracelet Con – Bezel has minutes subdivisions around just one quadrant. the new Tubbataha water. T the dark and the motion of the seconds pine reef that Oris is helping to hand is also clearly visible. This caused us to deduct a few points from the Tubbataha’s score on our Hanging positions 294° test. automatic. Crown right +8 What pleases the diver. but enlarging the minutes Average amplitude: hand makes it more difficult to read the Flat positions 316° hours. Crown left +7 arrow shape. height = 16. fully threaded titanium resemblance to the brand’s Master Diver. dices and the dots on the bezel changes to water resistant to 500 meters meaning that it has a central minutes a bright.000 pieces Price: $3.08. small seconds. Rate results: most important unit of time for a diver ic inlays. small hour. ceramic bezel. however. this one is a regulator. Oris modified the scratched at all during our diving test. via regulator with eccentric screw.

the movement is largely unadorned. donation will be a sizable SF40. The Oris’s overall value is high: the Tubbataha with ceramic bezel. make it easy to read. A valve described as “automatic” Overall value (15): 13 does not need to be unscrewed manually. adds a day screw it shut again. Al- aren’t necessary for am. plays for the hours and seconds. to fit a typical wrist. as are display. that doesn’t matter much because the case. which Oris de. except for the clasp’s outer bow. Twenty francs is admittedly not a king’s This is how the serially produced ransom. but after the 2. The date display has been left un. It clicks also able to coax it over the sleeve of a through 120 steps rather than 60 as on 7-mm-thick suit. tiny mole- Case (10): 9 cules of gas in the breathing mixture (heli- Design (15): 12 um and other gases) penetrate the watch. but divers who want pre. Under these conditions. The valves are only needed by pro- Bracelet and clasp (max. dial. The automatic helium-release valve on the the large. 10 points): 9 fessional divers who spend several consec- Operation (5): 4 utive days in pressurized deep-sea cham- bers. That’s not necessarily hadn’t previously shortened the bracelet In our tested pre-series model of the an added value. is mostly opaque. The dive time can be difficult to set: bracelet’s length so it can be slipped over if your diving gloves are more than 5 mm the sleeve of a thin diving suit. but only because we some dive watches. Legibility (5): 3 These gases expand when a diver as- Wearing comfort (10): 8 cends in a diving bell. tains a piece of mineral crystal with print- on crown protector on one side and an The date and time can be set by turning ing on the inside. The watch is comfortable to wear. less-steel crown. easy-to-grasp stain. it donates 20 Swiss francs to a project to preserve the Tubbataha Reef. with a difference of only two seconds among the various positions. TOTAL: 77 POINTS the gas escapes on its own. The valve allows the gases to escape without harming the Rate results (10): 7 case. it did so consistently.WT_STI_2013_Divers_02 23. composed of screwed titanium links.000 watches in the movement will limited edition have been sold. the limelight to the very legible minutes. is very solidly White marks on the Tubbataha’s bezel built. Like the case. The 46-mm changed: it’s very small and. The reworking. Helium-release valves The rate results were acceptable. The bezel is quite solidly made. but all the other components. signed and Sellita carried out.08. like the dis. but the bezel lacks which is made of sheet metal.13 12:30 Seite 145 SCORES ateur divers. WatchTime Tests 2013 145 .8 seconds both on the wrist and on the timing machine. you can’t turn the bezel. The exten- minutes subdivisions around the entire sion piece folds out to add 18 mm to the The high-quality titanium bracelet has a well-made divers’ extension. movement is nonetheless fitted with the other. which con- ters and made of titanium. and this expansion Movement (20): 12 can damage the watch. which is nearly identical to an ETA the crown wiggled when pulled out and a nearest half minute relative to the minutes 2836. the zero point on the dive-time scale to the 220. (We were thick. the total look.000. Whenever Oris sells one of these watches. As is usual for Oris. helium valve and ex- clusively reworked movement sells for $3. it yields case’s massive titanium back. which is water resistant to 500 me.000 on a titanium bracelet. though the watch gained 7. bit of manual dexterity was needed to hand. has a screwed.) Tubbataha. but watch companies install them to give their watches a professional TUBBATAHA LIMITED EDITION touch. the bracelet. which was not yet equipped cision will be glad that they can position The movement is based on a Sellita with the final version of the movement. brand’s standard red rotor.

but liquid metal is cause the bezel doesn’t provide enough Flat positions 292° harder: 600 Vickers.08. its organic-looking surface and contrast. than 3 mm. The crystal is highly reflective and the stripes of luminous material Con on the hands are too – Time of day and narrow. Dial down +1 merals and indices on the Omega’s bezel The bezel is easy to turn. the rubber strap looks like Rate results: which are satin finished. minutes. leather and makes an elegant impression. COSC-certified chronometer. ceramic bezel with diving scale made of liquid metal. tings without wiggling.200 Vick. co-axial escapement. Omega’s combination of ceram- ic and liquid metal results in a very hard and finely crafted dive-time ring. folding clasp made of titanium ble to detect on the sides of the case. height = 17 mm. any excess alloy ilar that they can be difficult to tell apart Price: $7. SPECS SEAMASTER PLANET OCEAN OMEGA 600M CO-AXIAL Functions: Hours with rapid-reset mechanism.13 12:31 Seite 146 Pros + Ceramic bezel clicks firmly into place.3 Steel alloys ordinarily used for as good under water as it is above. ing stitching. Seamaster Planet Ocean stop-seconds function Movement: Manufacture Caliber 8500. But even the time of day can be Hanging positions 269° for the bezel is even harder (1. ers). The case. With Strap and clasp: Rubber strap with safety the faint blemishes were almost impossi. The nu. 600M Co-axial automatic. Read- Average amplitude: watches have a hardness between 200 ing the dive time is extremely difficult be- and 240 Vickers.WT_STI_2013_Divers_02 23. logo. The ceramic used contrast. are so sim. fully threaded back with window of sapphire. The rotating bezel clicks Crown left +5 grees Celsius) that the molten metal can cleanly into each of its half-minute set.” a metal alloy wearer’s diving gloves are no thicker Crown down +3 with such a low melting point (400 de. both with arrowheads. made of titanium. the dive time are hard to read under water. 60-hour power reserve T Ocean 600M Co-axial boasts very high-quality. suffered only the ceramic. User-friendliness is unfortunately not Average deviation +2. which contribute to its considerable sturdiness. weight = 120 grams pressed into the notches.5 mm. (Deviations in seconds per 24 hours) The bezel remained unscathed be. seconds. water resistant to 600 meters slightest scratches during our test dive: crafted dial and the rubber strap.200 vph. hard to make out: the hour and minutes Dimensions: Diameter = 45. It has a sturdy titanium clasp with two Dial up 0 cause it has ceramic inlays like those on safety buttons and an embossed Omega the bezel of the Oris Tubbataha. + Rubber strap can be lengthened easily. so after the liquid metal has been hands.900 146 WatchTime Tests 2013 . domed sapphire crystal with nonreflective coating inside. Crown right +3 be pressed into the bezel’s notches with. provided the Crown up +2 are made of “liquid metal. Greatest deviation of rate 5 out damaging the surrounding ceramic. 25. date. two serially he Omega Seamaster Planet can be scraped away without marring the switched barrels. fine adjustment via weight screws on the freely swinging balance. The ceramic on our test watch has the same lush blue color as the carefully Case: Titanium case. well-crafted components.

so this watch makes ceptable range. so the watch’s legibility re. Its only flaw is less-than-ideal un- which is within the ac. the dial you could read a SEAMASTER PLANET OCEAN absolute clarity. which corresponded to the av- balance bridge rather than a bal. glows yellow rather than you return to the water’s surface. The blackened. The front crystal is SCORES scend to darker depths.13 12:31 Seite 147 COMPARATIVE TEST Divers’ Watches in turbulent or murky water. the “movement” category. The poor legibility only occurs un. findings of COSC. ward if necessary.3 the dive. If you de.08. low 2. silicon. our timing ma. It jumps sate for the peculiar way that light re. watch. but at an après-plunge party or seconds when we tested it on in a harbor restaurant. the blue Seamaster is almost the greatest deviation unbeatable in its construction. S-shaped bination of a freely arms of the balance are more of a visual breathing hairspring highlight than a functional one. The watch has a manual- chronometer. The indices are nice and wide. black date disk: it’s the only element that Movement (20): 18 ceived an overall rating of “good” in our doesn’t match the blue of the rest of the Rate results (10): 8 test. 10 points): 8 and the minutes hand. They join and escape wheel to with the blackened components to create result in an especially a distinctive look that puts Omega clear- accurate rate. The watch contains Omega’s own au- tomatic Caliber 8500.WT_STI_2013_Divers_02 23. the luminous highly reflective: if you turn the watch paint on the hands is too sparse to assure even slightly. The its two serially arranged barrels. ly ahead of the other tested watches in deed. quality of its craftsmanship and in its de- sitions was five seconds. which deserves kudos for its distinctive embellishments and modern construction. Design (15): 14 very easy to read on land both day and al. forward to tomorrow or back to yester- day as necessary when you set the hour hand forward or backward in hourly increments. Flat parts are decorated with highly complex pallet the brand’s curving stripes.3 seconds and All in all. too. This effect disappears entirely when Operation (5): 4 er displays. The av. unlike all the oth. and four regulating Another advantage of Caliber 8500 is screws on the balance. erage results when tested on the timing ance cock. derwater legibility. in the among the various po. you can view the face from the side to en- These features combine to make the time joy the three-dimensional look of the di. Bracelet and clasp (max. spring. which has applied indices and an ap. moment ago can change into a totally re. plied logo. chine confirmed the Even though it has a sapphire back. power reserve. The watch its most impressive showing not during gained between 1. including a the wrist. In. The visi- and Omega’s co-axial ble screws are also blackened. fracts under water. as are the escapement with its two barrels. which balance spring is made of store enough energy to run for 60 hours. 600M CO-AXIAL The paint itself shines very brightly flective surface. sign. move it dozens of days forward. We weren’t so happy with the Wearing comfort (10): 8 der water. rather than having to TOTAL: 86 POINTS es – is the crystal’s inability to compen. ly operated helium escape valve and a erage daily gain was a screw-down crown. a freely swinging hair. Overall value (15): 13 we found on nearly all of our test watch. Another shortcoming – and one that The date display can be reset back. where Case (10): 9 green. Legibility (5): 4 night. machine. the Seamaster Planet Ocean 600M Co- which certified the axial can withstand pressure to a depth movement as a of 600 meters.7 and 3. WatchTime Tests 2013 147 . an above-average length of time for a We expected the com.

The very solid fold-out mechanism 11 and 1 o’clock. you might extension.08. Porsche Design. This watch’s dive-time scale is also easier to read under water than those on the other watches. almost entirely non- divisions dot the entire dial. Like the rest of the watch. 148 WatchTime Tests 2013 . the would have made possible a bidirectional The time of day is more difficult to clasp combines stainless steel and titani- rotating bezel and a more user-friendly read than the dive time. as does the strap. clicks into place. The watch weighs 190 grams. an additional crown. some to use when you’re wearing gloves. operate. um: the former for its folding parts and device. With Con this watch. positions the ring inside the case. The dial has nei. Only then can you set The displays remain legible. The special features don’t stop here: you can rotate the bezel only after you have flipped the watch’s case out of its frame. The clasp is especially cumber- you press the case into its frame until it not instantly be able to tell which side be. wrist. Second. the ring can be reset by rotat- – Time of day ing the outer bezel rather than by turning is hard to read. viewed from the side. this reflective. even when has massive screws. Unfortunately.WT_STI_2013_Divers_02 23. the outer frame is ti- tanium. The will also send it smartly back to its home. First. as on con. viewed from the side. the dive time. when you put this watch on. too. The double-folding clasp is hard to the fact that its special construction ple dial. fully luminous minute sub. You can perform the entire setting process while wearing thick gloves.13 12:31 Seite 148 COMPARATIVE TEST Divers’ Watches PORSCHE DESIGN P’6780 DIVER divers’ watch needs a rotating A ring that’s calibrated to show how many minutes have elapsed since the beginning of the underwater excursion. + Divers’ extension for the strap turers. This is the only watch in our test with a steel case. To unlock the case and also the dive-time ring and the crown. in its P’6780 Div- er. the marks the first quarter hour and also adds somewhat to suit the girth of the wearer’s ring rotates in only one direction. despite visual interest to the otherwise very sim. ther hour nor minutes numerals. you press two non-slip buttons at water refractions than its competitors. here. Otherwise the dive-time ring re- mains immobile and cannot be acciden- tally reset. A wide yellow stripe Moveable lugs allow the strap to adapt ventional divers’ watches. A quick flick of the wrist longs up. but this com- ponent does not need to be on the outside Pros + Very legible dive-time scale + Practical locking mechanism for the case of the case. which is darker in color and lighter in weight than steel. And the latter for its outer elements and divers’ After you set the bezel and/or hands. as is true on some watches with interior rotating rings. even when watch is better able to cope with under. There are two reasons The dive time is perfectly legible and the crystal is for this. Like several other manufac. This construction puts Porsche Design ahead of its competitors: the bezel can’t be knocked off position and will always show the true dive time.

however. slightly domed sapphire crystal is nonreflective on both The four-screw stainless-steel back sides. WatchTime Tests 2013 149 . but because of the variety of praiseworthy technical features: foldout case. 10 points): 8 Operation (5): 4 Case (10): 9 Design (15): 11 Legibility (5): 4 Wearing comfort (10): 7 Movement (20): 12 Rate results (10): 7 The bezel must first be Overall value (15): 11 unlocked and can then TOTAL: 73 POINTS be set easily. Dimensions: Diameter = 46.WT_STI_2013_Divers_02 23. remains well protected. we found Crown up -3 ing the dive. difference among the various positions. nium frame suffered visible scratches dur. It emerged from the pool no deviation on most days. outer frame made of titanium.8 mm across and tive patterns. the traces of wear do not locking mechanism for the dive-time ring Average deviation +2. the name “Porsche” plays an SCORES important role. land. that the tita. stop-seconds function Movement: Sellita SW 300. minutes. The Sellita SW provides an extra measure of safety.2 affect water resistance. age value of +2. We noticed. which measures 46. to make do with less-than-ideal legibility and less-than-perfect wearing comfort. because it stands for P’6780 DIVER innovation and technical finesse – two at- tributes that apply to the P’6780 Diver.800 vph.2 seconds. back in place. a good result. high resistance to pressure. its screws are blued.13 12:31 Seite 149 SPECS P’6780 DIVER Functions: Hours. height = 17 mm. seconds. The Porsche Design P’6780 Diver re. which is par. which is constructed like the ETA technical details are also appealing on dry Flat positions 293° 2892. water resistant. 28. Rate results: and the clasp is the least comfortable one The timing machine showed a daily aver. is somewhat top-heavy rotor is designed to look like a wheel rim. and its titanium with rapid-extension mechanism 17 mm in height. The move.000 meters Strap and clasp: Rubber strap. water resistant to 1. four screws hold the stainless-steel covers a decorated Sellita SW 300 with a Porsche rotor.000 but also revealed a mediocre nine-second Dial down +3 meters. too. Crown down +6 looking the worse for wear. date. fine adjustment via regulator with eccentric screw. Last but not least. Crown left +5 ticularly painful when you consider that it ally shines below the waves. (Deviations in seconds per 24 hours) in our test. safety folding clasp made of stainless steel and case. When we tested it on our wrist.08. Dial up +4 The watch is water resistant to 1. and the Greatest deviation of rate 9 Of course. weight = 190 grams The high price is justified not because of the movement (as it is with Omega’s Price: $10.8 mm. it glows brightly. 42-hour power reserve Case: Stainless-steel case.500 watch).000. automatic. The Average amplitude: 300. It’s highly Crown right -2 costs more than $10. The down side is that you will have Hanging positions 266° ment is embellished with various decora. move- able lugs and sturdy safety folding clasp with a sturdy divers’ extension. Strap and clasp (max.

10 points): 8 grasped from the side of the case. then you’ll original spring wears out after many without creating a larger opening in the unscrew the fully threaded back.5-mm ti- tanium case which. Cons tice is a long. If your curiosity gets the better of you The leather box also contains a spare Our test was too brief to determine and you absolutely must see the move- circular spring for the bezel’s retention whether this feature genuinely adds extra ment (even if doing so might jeopardize system.08.13 12:31 Seite 150 COMPARATIVE TEST Divers’ Watches CITIZEN Promaster 1000 M Professional Diver he Promaster 1000 M Profes- T sional Diver has a 47. is water resistant to 1. Then you’ll be able to slide the ex- watch that’s suitable for diving in very ring.and water- also a dream come true for weekend resistant case divers. so the ring is almost im- Case (10): 9 possible to reposition unless you first re- Design (15): 12 move your diving gloves. When you open the Promaster’s large leather box. for a new one. Citizen’s is the only diving watch in our test that can truly adapt to wrists and diving suits of all You then exert firm pressure with your screws and lift off the outer ring on the sizes. extra strap attached to a – Rotating bezel is pronged buckle. This extension can be difficult to operate. you remove the rotating tremely sturdy lugs out of their deep cold water. the rotating bezel cannot be Strap and clasp (max. it’s Pros + Long extension piece to lengthen the strap + Highly luminous dial with bold contrasts + Scratch. where cluttered and could use more space. but it does make the case wider the case’s water resistance).WT_STI_2013_Divers_02 23.) makes it impossible. easily buckled between the two ends of – Cluttered displays are the watch’s solid yet elastic rubber strap. The watch nonetheless earned four points in the “op- Legibility (5): 3 eration” category because the crown is Wearing comfort (10): 8 large and the pronged buckle is uncompli- Movement (20): 10 cated: both crown and buckle are used Rate results (10): 4 much more often than the divers’ bezel Overall value (15): 13 during everyday wear. If you have a keen interest in watches TOTAL: 71 POINTS you will no doubt loosen the four large 150 WatchTime Tests 2013 . for a diver to read the time of day or dive time to the SCORES nearest minute even though the bezel has PROMASTER 1000 M PROFESSIONAL DIVER single-minute calibrations all around the dial. To install it. it. Not only is this a very large and robust divers’ watch. This it’s less likely to press against your wrist. when you must wear a thick bezel and exchange the old circular spring notches on the underside of the case. remove years. as the watch’s name implies. you must first open the dial. the displays on the dial are rather screwed crown is also on this side. wetsuit. which you can insert after the value. Second. Thanks to this practical item. Finally. hard to read. (The large First. but Operation (5): 4 from above only. This makes the Promaster the only fingers to turn and open the case’s outer back. the first thing you’ll no. despite the dial’s high contrast and strong luminosity. There are two disadvantages to this. and take a look at automatic Caliber lever on the left side of the case.000 meters.

the surfaces to 800 Vickers. Price: Citizen has discontinued this model. The timing machine sional divers will also be pleased to know pronged buckle. This last-mentioned disk offers a timepiece.5 mm. Movement: Citizen 8203. rather than four hertz and it cannot be cial treatment called “Duratect. fully threaded titanium back. water resistant position of the regulator. the Miyota 8203. Mediocre rate results aren’t terribly important for an amateur diver. is metal used for its case and the suppleness the Japanese version of the ETA 2836. functional viewpoint. weight = 146 grams deeply milled indentations and are firmly held by a ring. That’s date. After its dip PROMASTER 1000 M PROFESSIONAL DIVER tion of Citizen’s movement when com. crystal is nonreflective on both sides. The price is rather low runs three hands. But when he wears this watch in daily life. reserve The ETA 2836 has an eccentric screw to son’s sake. Furthermore. It’s adorned with a not-so-good rate values are offset by nu- wavy pattern.08. domed sapphire make very finely dosed corrections in the of around 170 Vickers.600 vph.” in which 21. strap can be threaded demonstrated what effect the movement’s that this watch has an automatic helium through titanium loops. the bezel’s spring (upper right) can be changed.  pronged buckle. It of its rubber strap. a deviation of more than one minute per week would probably be annoying. bilingual day Citizen’s caliber has a frequency of three because Citizen subjects the case to a spe. divers’ watches. The Promaster 1000 It also has a handsome rotor with a blue M Professional Diver clearly differs in its coating and curved contours.000 meters on the Citizen 8203 can only be shifted good match for the robust case. Citizen’s The watch’s simple movement and own movement maker. Rate results: (Deviations in seconds per 24 hours) Dial up +22 Dial down +18 Crown up +4 Crown down +9 Crown left +8 Crown right +5 Greatest deviation of rate 18 Average deviation +11 Average amplitude: Flat positions 278° Hanging positions 239° Dimensions: Diameter = 47. For compari. but the regulator The 6-mm-thick sapphire crystal is a to 1. who’ll be much more interested in intervals of no more than one hour. automatic. SPECS choice between two different languages. merous advantages. which is made by Miyota.WT_STI_2013_Divers_02 23. in the pool. pared to the ETA 2836. pure titanium has a hardness Case: Titanium case. 8203. the maximum deviation among the vari- ous positions was even worse – 18 seconds. there’s also an simpler construction has on its precision: valve on the side of its case opposite the extension piece ending in a titanium the average daily gain was 11 seconds and crown. The balance of other traces of abrasion on its case.13 12:31 Seite 151 When the lever (left) is open and the outer ring (center right) has been unscrewed. that the watch is quite tough. but only on its upper level. 45-hour power also lacks a fine-adjustment mechanism. From a design and construction from most other The bezel can only be grasped from the front. It oxygen and nitrogen are used to harden adjustment of the rate. our wearing test proved We can see differences in the construc. simple regulator for fine stopped for to-the-second time setting. The massive lugs are set into height = 18 mm. seconds. Profes- Strap and clasp: Rubber strap with rather coarsely. we saw almost no scratches or Functions: Hours. It’s surprisingly comfort- which is called the Citizen 8203 when able on the wrist thanks to the lightweight contained in the brand’s own watches. minutes. WatchTime Tests 2013 151 . a date display and a day for such a complex and interesting disk.

– It’s easy to confuse the date and time-zone displays when resetting one or the other.13 12:34 Seite 152 Pros + Sturdy case + Good legibility.WT_STI_2013_Muehle_02 23.08.EU . day and night + Small rate deviation Cons – The clasp is hard to open. 152 WatchTime Photo: OK-PHOTOGRAPHY Tests 2013 Background photo: FOTOLIA.COM/FOTOGRAFICHE.

WatchTime Tests 2013 153 . Although the Marinus GMT isn’t SCORES panion that will tell you the primarily a divers’ watch.” and Mühle-Glashütte is 44-mm. the rotating bezel does not click into Rate results (10): 9 In order to clearly separate the sec. Its to the sea. 10 points): 7 back home. Crown Legibility (5): 4 for the GMT version of the Marinus. can fold out a 2-cm-long extension hour increments by turning the crown. Marinus means “belonging for use in and around the water. Or you can show the time in the quickly adjust your watch strap or second zone simply by turning the bi. piece. place as neatly as we would wish. making it ideal Strap and clasp (max. it is water re. Both end in a folding GMT hand with a red tip. GMT is a rugged travel com. But temperature changes and water.13 12:35 Seite 153 Tough Time BY ALEXANDER KRUPP This two-time-zone watch from Mühle- Glashütte is rugged enough for any off-road journey.WT_STI_2013_Muehle_02 23. protectors guard the threaded winding Wearing comfort (10): 8 Mühle has replaced the dive-time ring crown against sideways blows. bracelet to fit around your wetsuit directional rotating bezel to the desired sleeve. The found on its basic Marinus model with only criticism of the case we have is that Movement (20): 12 a 24-hour bezel. Overall value (15): 12 ond-time-zone display and the home. Design (15): 12 as well as its nautical wristwatches. How did it stand up to WT’s rough-and-tumble test? T he Mühle-Glashütte Marinus position relative to the red-tipped hand.5-mm-thick domed Case (10): 8 chronometers and marine time systems sapphire crystal protects it from shocks. yacht screw back and 2. If you’re exploring a canyon and setting it to the time in a second time decide to put on your wetsuit. You can clasp with hefty sides from which you move the 24-hour hand forward in one. Mühle added a red scale ber strap and the optional stainless- around the dial and a slender black steel bracelet. TOTAL: 76 POINTS time display. MÜHLE-GLASHÜTTE MARINUS GMT local time as well as the time sistant to 300 meters.08. you can zone. Adventurers will like both the rub. solid stainless-steel case with Operation (5): 4 known for its ships’ clocks.

second time Mühle’s woodpecker’s neck fine zone via 24-hour hand. the wearer uses a lot of force. ship. and the date display can be Crown down +3 opposing spring has a raised edge that adjusted by turning it the other way. D-01768 Glashütte. Looking at all of its details. both of these components re. can be advanced by turning the crown in Crown up +3 main in their preset positions because the one direction. fully threaded back with er’s neck fine adjustment mechanism (see Marinus GMT fits comfortably around transparent pane of sapphire.2 but its embellishments are rather plain. Even if the watch receives a first setting position.899 seconds when worn.6 mm.099) The watch gained no more than three won’t be a problem for the macho men Price: $2. diameter = 25. Germany Reference number: M1-28-53-KB Functions: Hours. The only weakness we Rate results: over a swan’s neck is that the regulator’s found here is the possibility of human er- (Deviations in seconds per 24 hours) pointer cannot slip over the spring or ror: when the crown is pulled out to its Dial up +5 vice versa. bidirectional rotating bezel with calibrated scale made Mühle has given ETA’s automatic Reliable rate behavior is only one of of black anodized aluminum. but their shiny surfaces can Strap and clasp: Rubber strap. As in an ordinary swan’s the wrist. Crown left +5 fits into a milled depression on the upper There’s a good chance that the wearer Crown right +3 side of the pointer. date display. Average deviation +4.WT_STI_2013_Muehle_02 23. to moveable but firmly screwed lugs. shock resistant. stop- adjustment mechanism seconds mechanism allows for precise Movement: Automatic ETA 2893-2 adjustment yet is “Elaboré”. Mühle’s own rotor and woodpecker’s neck fine adjust- ment mechanism. height = 4. weight = 139 g and a maximum difference of only three safety buttons and it won’t open unless Variations: With extendable stainless. simple woodpecker variation can be precisely cause glaring reflections in certain light- folding clasp with safety stirrup and easy- adjusted thanks to a setting screw and a ing conditions. The large threaded crown to-use extension mechanism curved opposing spring. 42-hour power reserve. Thanks crystal is domed on top and nonreflecting a new rotor and its patented woodpeck.08. haps both. average daily deviation of +4. luminous hands are resistant to 300 meters neck fine adjustment mechanism. likely to wear this watch.2 seconds clasp detracts a bit: the closure lacks height = 12. nus GMT has good-quality craftsman- Flat positions 281° the movement is quite precise. minutes. the Mari- Average amplitude: except for the blued screws. 21 jewels.13 12:35 Seite 154 TEST Mühle-Glashütte Marinus GMT SPECS MÜHLE-GLASHÜTTE MARINUS GMT Manufacturer: Mühle-Glashütte GmbH. sapphire Caliber 2893-2 additional components: this watch’s many good points. the inside.800 vph. the very legible. and is as easy to operate as it is to Hanging positions 245° tronic timing machine calculated an read and to wear. Our elec. water detailed photo). Only the stubborn Dimensions: Diameter = 44 mm. The advantage is easy to grasp.  154 WatchTime Tests 2013 . the 24-hour hand Dial down +6 sharp blow.2 mm. Its large. However.1 mm Case: Stainless steel. 28. will confuse the two functions and mis- The modifications that Mühle made adjust the time zone or the date or per- Greatest deviation of rate 3 to the ETA movement are substantial. But that steel bracelet ($3. Photo: OK-PHOTOGRAPHY Müglitztalstrasse 7. seconds among the various positions. Incabloc shock absorption.

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5717 An invitation to travel across the continents and oceans illustrated on three versions of the hand-guilloché lacquered dial. Thanks to a patented mechanical memory based on two heart-shaped cams. the innovator. B R E G U E T . the Classique Hora Mundi is the first mechanical watch with an instant-jump time-zone display.4 0 14 B E V E R L Y H I L L S 3 10 8 6 0 .10 6 1 – L A S V E G A S 7 0 2 7 3 3 . BREGUET BOUTIQUES – NEW YORK FIFTH AVENUE 646 692-6469 – NEW YORK MADISON AVENUE 2 12 2 8 8 .WATCH_ppcoplcd1455.8 1 6 3 – W W W..74 3 5 – T O L L F R E E 8 7 7 .1 3/27/13 2:58 PM Page 1 Breguet..4 0 3 . History is still being written.9 9 11 – B A L H A R B O U R 3 0 5 8 6 6 . Classique Hora Mundi . it instantly indicates the date and the time of day or night in a given city selected using the dedicated pushpiece. C O M .