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While working with lead-acid batteries, please wear glasses in the unlike
event of an explosion.

Below are seven simple steps in testing a car battery. If you have a non-sealed
battery, it is highly recommended that you use a good quality temperature
compensating hydrometer, which can be purchased at an auto parts or battery
store for less than $10. A hydrometer is a float-type device used to determine the
State-of-Charge by measuring the specific gravity of the electrolyte in each cell.
It is an accurate way of determining a battery's State-of-Charge and weak or
dead cells.

[Source: Popular Mechanics]

If you have a sealed battery or to troubleshoot charging or electrical system, you

will need a digital DC voltmeter with 0.5% (or better) accuracy, such as a Fluke
73-3. A digital voltmeter can be purchased at an electronics store, such as
Jameco, Fry's, etc., for less than $200. Analog voltmeters are not accurate
enough to measure the millivolt differences of a battery's State-of-Charge or
output of the charging system. A battery load tester is optional. Another way of
testing the CCA (Cold Cranking Amp) or capacity of lead-acid car batteries is by
using a conductance tester, such as a Midtronics, costing $100 to $600. The
most accurate way of testing a car battery is a full capacity load test.


Visually inspect for obvious problems such as a loose or broken alternator belt,
low electrolyte levels, dirty or wet battery top, corroded or swollen cables,
corroded terminals or battery posts, loose hold-down clamps, loose cable
terminals, or a leaking or damaged battery case.

If the electrolyte levels are low in non-sealed batteries, allow the battery to cool
and add only distilled (or deionized or demineralized) water to the level indicated
by the battery manufacturer or to between 1/4 to 3/8 inch (6 to 10 mm) below the
bottom of the plastic filler tube (vent wells). The plates need to be covered at all
times. Avoid overfilling, especially in hot climates, because heat will cause the
electrolyte to expand and overflow.


Recharge the battery to 100% State-of-Charge. If non-sealed battery has a .030

(sometimes expressed as 30 "points") or more difference in specific gravity
reading between the lowest and highest cell, then you should equalize the
battery using the battery manufacturer's procedures


Surface charge is the uneven mixture of sulfuric acid and water along the surface
of the plates as a result of charging or discharging. It will make a weak battery
appear good or a good battery appear bad. You need to eliminate the surface
charge by one of the following methods after recharging a lead-acid car battery:

4.3.1. Allow the battery to sit (or rest) without discharge or charge for between six
to twelve hours to allow for the surface charge to dissipate. (Recommended

4.3.2. Turn the headlights on high beam for five minutes, turn them off, and wait
five to ten minutes.

4.3.3. With a battery load tester, apply a load at one-half the battery's CCA rating
for 15 seconds and then wait five to ten minutes.

4.3.4. Disable the ignition, turn the engine over for 15 seconds with the starter
motor, and wait five to ten minutes.


If the battery's electrolyte is above 110° F (43.3° C), allow it to cool. To determine
the battery's State-of-Charge with the battery's electrolyte temperature at 80° F
(26.7° C), use the following table. The following table assumes that a 1.265
specific gravity and 12.65 VDC reading is a fully charged, wet, Low
Maintenance (Sb/Sb) lead-acid battery at rest (no external current running
through it). For other electrolyte temperatures, use the Temperature
Compensation table below to adjust the Open Circuit Voltage (OCV) or Specific
Gravity readings. The Specific Gravity or Open Circuit Voltage readings for a
battery at 100% State-of-Charge will vary by plate chemistry, so check the
battery manufacturer's specifications for a State-of-Charge definitions. A fully
charged wet starting battery at 80° F (26.7° C), can range from 1.260 to 1.275
Specific Gravity (12.60 to 12.75 VDC) and a sealed VRLA (Gel or AGM) battery
from 1.285 to 1.310 (12.85 to 13.1 VDC).

Digital Approximate Hydrometer Electrolyte

Voltmeter State-of- Average Cell Freeze Point
Open Circuit Charge at Specific
Voltage at 80°F (26.7°C) Gravity
12.65 100% 1.265 -77°F
12.45 75% 1.225 -35°F
12.24 50% 1.190 -10°F
12.06 25% 1.155 15°F
11.89 or less DISCHARGED 1.120 or less 20°F

[Source: BCI]

Electrolyte Electrolyte Add or Add or Subtract

Temperature Temperature Subtract to to Digital
Degrees Degrees Hydrometer's Voltmeter's
Fahrenheit Celsius SG Reading Reading
160° 71.1° +.032 -.72
150° 65.6° +.028 -.63
140° 60.0° +.024 -.54
130° 54.4° +.020 -.45
120° 48.9° +.016 -.36
110° 43.3° +.012 -.27
100° 37.8° +.008 -.18
90° 32.2° +.004 -.09
80° 26.7° 0 0
70° 21.1° -.004 +.09
60° 15.6° -.008 +.18
50° 10° -.012 +.27
40° 4.4° -.016 +.36
30° -1.1° -.020 +.45
20° -6.7° -.024 +.54
10° +12.2° -.028 +.63
0° -17.8° -.032 +.72

Electrolyte temperature compensation, depending on the battery manufacturer's
definition of 100% State-of-Charge, will vary. If you are using a digital DC
voltmeter or a non-temperature compensated HYDROMETER, make the
adjustments indicated in the table above. For example, if the electrolyte is at 80°
F (26.7° C), and the specific gravity reading is 1.265 for a 100% State-of-Charge,
when the electrolyte is at 20° F (-6.7° C), the actual specific gravity reading
would be 1.289 for a 100% State-of-Charge because the liquid is more dense.
However, when you subtract .024 from 1.289, the corrected reading would be
1.265 or 100% State-of-Charge. At 100° F (37.8° C), the actual specific gravity
reading would be 1.257 for 100% State-of-Charge, but the compensated reading,
after .008 is added, would be 1.265 for 100% State-of-Charge. This is why using
a temperature compensated hydrometer is highly recommended and more

If you are using an accurate (.5% or better) DIGITAL DC VOLTMETER, make

the adjustments indicated in the table above. For example, if the electrolyte is at
80° F (26.7° C), and the voltage reading is 12.65 for a 100% State-of-Charge,
when the electrolyte is at 20° F (-6.7° C), the actual voltage reading would be
13.19 for a 100% State-of-Charge. Before you correct the reading by -.18 volts At
100° F (37.8° C), the actual voltage reading would be 12.47 for 100% State-of-

For non-sealed batteries, check the specific gravity in each cell with a
hydrometer and average cells readings. For sealed batteries, measure the Open
Circuit Voltage across the battery terminals with an accurate .5% (or better)
digital voltmeter. This is the only way you can determine the State-of-Charge.
Some batteries have a built-in hydrometer, Magic Eye, which only measures the
State-of-Charge in ONE of its six cells. If the built-in indicator is not green or
blue, then the battery has a low electrolyte level and if non-sealed, should be
refilled and recharged before proceeding or a low charge.
[Source: Popular Mechanics]

If the State-of-Charge is BELOW 75% using either the specific gravity or voltage
test or the built-in hydrometer does not indicate "good" (green or blue), then the
battery needs to be recharged before proceeding. You should replace the
battery, if one or more of the following conditions occur:

4.4.1. If there is a .050 (sometimes expressed as 50 "points") or more difference

in the specific gravity reading between the highest and lowest cell, you have a
weak or dead cell(s). Applying an EQUALIZING charge per the battery
manufacturer's procedures may correct this condition. (Please see Section 9.)

4.4.2. If the battery will not recharge to a 75% or more State-of-Charge level or if
the built-in hydrometer still does not indicate "good" (green or blue), which
indicates a 65% State-of-Charge or better). If you know that a battery has spilled
or "bubbled over" and the electrolyte has been partially replaced with water, you
can replace this old electrolyte with new electrolyte and go back to Step 4.2
above. Battery electrolyte (battery acid) is a mixture of 25% to 35% sulfuric acid
and distilled water when fully charged. It less expensive to replace the electrolyte
than to buy a new battery.

4.4.3. If a moderate load is applied and if there is no or very little current flowing
there is an probably an open cell or a completely sulfated battery. A voltmeter
reading may or may not indicate an open.
4.4.4. If the digital voltmeter indicates 10.45 to 10.65 volts, there probably is a
shorted cell. A shorted cell is caused by plates touching, sediment ("mud") build-
up or "treeing" between the plates.


If the battery's State-of-Charge is at 75% or higher or has a "good" built-in

hydrometer indication, then you can load test the battery by one of the following

4.5.1. With a battery load tester, apply a load equal to one half of the CCA rating
of the battery for 15 seconds. (Recommended method).

4.5.2. With a battery load tester, apply a load equal to one half the OEM cold
cranking amp specification for 15 seconds.

4.5.3. Disable the ignition and turn the engine over for 15 seconds with the
starter motor.

DURING the load test, the voltage on a good battery will NOT drop below the
following table's indicated voltage for the electrolyte at the temperatures shown:

Electrolyte Electrolyte Minimum

Temperature Temperature Voltage Under
100° 37.8° 9.9
90° 32.2° 9.8
80° 26.7° 9.7
70° 21.1° 9.6
60° 15.6° 9.5
50° 10.0° 9.4
40° 4.4° 9.3
30° -1.1° 9.1
20° -6.7° 8.9
10° -12.2° 8.7
0° -17.8° 8.5

[Source: Interstate Batteries]

If the battery has passed the load test, please go to Section 4.7. below. If not,
remove the load, wait ten minutes, and measure the State-of-Charge. If the
battery bounces back to less than 75% State-of-Charge (1.225 specific gravity or
12.45 VDC), then recharge the battery and load test again. If the battery fails the
load test a second time or bounces back to less than 75% State-of-Charge, then
replace the battery because it lacks the necessary CCA capacity.


If the battery passes the load test, you should recharge it as soon as possible to
prevent lead sulfation and to restore it to peak performance.