You are on page 1of 43

Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps

athens
“In Your Pocket: A cheeky, well-
written series of guidebooks.”
The New York Times

August - September 2010

Greek Islands
Top 10 up-and-coming

Athens beaches
A tram ride to the Med

N°15 - €2
inyourpocket.com
Contents 3

E S S E N T I A L C I TY G U I D E S

Breathtaking Athens Contents


The Basics
Facts, habits, attitudes 8

History
A few thousand years in two pages 12

Districts of Athens
Be seen in the right places 14

Greek Islands
Top 10 up-and-coming 16

Athens beaches
Find the right one 19
Beach vendor selling fresh fruit
Culture & Events
What’s on 20 Dining & Nightlife
Where to stay Restaurants
5* or hostels, the best is here for you 22 How to avoid eating like a ‘tourist’ 29

Cafés

Take back hom Join the ‘frappé’ nation 40

a piece of
e Nightlife
One of the main reasons you’re here! 42

your favourite Gay Athens 48

city!
Available in the
Sightseeing
Monuments and Archaeological Sites 50
department sto
re
Karagiorgi Ser
Syntagma Sq
vias st 1 Acropolis Museum 54
Tel. 210 324 621
0
Museums 56

Historic Buildings 60

Getting Around
Airplanes, boats and trains 65

Shopping 69

Directory 72

Maps & Index


Metro map 75
City map 76
Hot August (one of our rejected cover photos)
Index 82

athens.inyourpocket.com August - September 2010


4 Foreword
August is the traditional holiday month for most
Greeks. Every year, after mid July, the mood Europe In Your Pocket
becomes cheerful and lazy and conversations
revolve around holidays, islands, accommodation
rates and ferry ticket bookings.

This summer however, is a strange one.


With incomes slashed, jobs lost and taxes
skyrocketing, uncertainty about the future is
creeping among the population. It is estimated
that this August many Athenians will chose to (or
have to) stay in the city. This is good news for
visitors, as - unlike in previous years - they will be
able to enjoy an almost fully functional capital.

Having said that, it is highly recommended that


you call up restaurants and bars before your visit,
especially around the 15th as most of them will be
closed for at least a few days.

That shouldn’t worry you as you can take a break


from your typical urban vacation and sightseeing
to spend a day or two by the sea. Our Athens
beaches feature will help you pick the right one
for you.
In Your Pocket is once again breaking new ground.
And if you have days to spend outside Athens, pick Fresh from bringing you the most up-to-date city
one of our favourite less known Greek islands and guides around, we have recently gone Dutch with
enjoy a truly relaxing holiday in the Aegean Sea. a move into the Netherlands. The first issue of
’s-Hertogenbosch In Your Pocket is now out,
providing visitors to the city also known as Den
Bosch with all the usual essential information an
Cover story In Your Pocket guide provides. We also have a pilot
issue of Vienna In Your Pocket out on the streets
Children scouring the sand for shells of the Austrian capital: you can download a free PDF
and other seaside finds on the beach, copy of both of these new guides at our website,
a familiar sight during the August inyourpocket.com. To keep up with all In Your
holiday season
Pocket news and events, like In Your Pocket on
© VK Facebook (facebook.com/inyourpocket) or follow
us on Twitter (twitter.com/inyourpocket).

Editorial Copyright notice


Publisher Fotis Georgeles Text and photos copyright Athens Pocket
E S S E N T I A L C I TY G U I D E S Managing Editor Vangelis Koronakis Ltd 2008-2010. Maps copyright Road
Contributors Mandi Millen, Stephanie Editions. All rights reserved. No part of
Bailey this publication may be reproduced in
Athens In Your Pocket Layout & Design AIYP creative studio any form, except brief extracts for the
Harilaou Trikoupi 22 purpose of its review, without written
Photography © Athens IYP - VK permission from the publisher and
106 79 Athens Maps © Road Editions
Greece copyright owner. The trademark In Your
Pocket is used under license from UAB
tel. (+30) 210 3316196 In Your Pocket (Vokieciu 10-15, Vilnius,
e-mail: athens@inyourpocket.com fax (+30) 210 3316195 Lithuania tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76).
www.inyourpocket.com Editor’s note
www.inyourpocket.gr Sales & Circulation
The editorial content of In Your Pocket
Advertising Director Louisa Nathanail guides is independent from paid-for
Advertising Mgr Nikos Tsouanatos advertising. Sponsored listings are
ISSN 1791-4558 Direct Market Mgr Vassilis clearly marked as such. We welcome all
© Athens In Your Pocket Zarkadoulas readers‘ comments and suggestions.
Financial Director Efi Mourtzi We have made every effort to ensure
Published 6 times per year the accuracy of the information at the
This issue: 20,000 copies tel. (+30) 210 3617530 time of going to press and assume no
fax (+30) 210 3617310 responsibility for changes and errors.

Athens In Your Pocket


6 Arriving in athens in your pocket guides 7

Message from the Mayor Arriving by boat In Your Pocket Online Press Box
From Italy to Patras: There are many connections across
Dear visitors, the Adriatic Sea and a few ferry companies operate bet- “Solid, reliable information on everything from
ween the Italian ports of Brindisi and Ancona and the port where to book a reasonable B&B to how best
I welcome you to our city, of Patras. to spend 72 hours in a city.”
the city of myth and reality, If you have your own car, take the road to Korinthos and The Guardian
the city of history and vi- then on to Athens (220 km). Be extremely careful as this
sion, the City of Athens. poor excuse for a national road is very dangerous and
“You do not even need to pack a guidebook:
accidents happen very often. If you‘re traveling without a
The glorious Athens of an- car take the intercity bus (KTEL) to Athens central station just pick up an In Your Pocket when you
tiquity is becoming one (single €17.20). arrive.”
with the Athens of con- Simon Calder
temporary achievements From the islands to Piraeus: If you arrive in Piraeus by The Independent & LBC Radio
and quality, and invites the boat, chances are that you‘ll disembark within walking dis-
entire world to view the Greek capital not only tance of the metro terminal where you can get the metro to In Your Pocket guides have been online, in full, “In Your Pocket: a cheeky, well-written series
through the windows of culture and history, but the city centre. If you are too far (i.e. the cruise liners’ dock) since 1995, and our company has continually of guidebooks.”
also entertainment, gastronomy and shopping. or your luggage is too heavy, there is a free bus service that been at the cutting edge of internet development.
Take the time to truly discover Athens – preferably runs inside the harbour. Try to avoid taxis but if it is neces- The New York Times
The first travel publisher to offer free PDF guides
on foot. Familiarise yourselves with the beauty of sary to use one, then pick one up from the street outside
(back in 2002) you can now download our entire
its landscape and the warmth of its people. the harbour area. “Most of the traditional guidebook companies
range of travel guidebooks - for free and in full -
now have decent websites, with plenty of advi-
So, together with the citizens of Athens, I welcome from our website, inyourpocket.com. More than
all of you to the city where the word “foreigner” Arriving by train 25,000 PDFs are downloaded each month, while
ce and information either freely available or
downloadable for a fee, but inyourpocket.com
means “guest”. I am confident your stay will forge There are daily international trains from Sofia, Bucharest, the site as a whole regularly attracts more than
unforgettable memories inspired by the beauty Istanbul and Belgrade to Thessaloniki, where you have to is also well worth a browse. Concentrating on
250,000 visitors per month.
of culture, eternal values, history and modern- change to the intercity train to the capital. This takes about both well-known and more offbeat European
day accomplishments, and that we will see you 5 hours and is very comfortable, reliable and frequent (refer Facebook & Twitter destinations, its free downloadable city and
again soon. to our ‘getting around’ pages).
Like In Your Pocket on Facebook, or follow us country guides are compiled by locals and
on Twitter, and you can get inside information regularly updated.”
However, a sleeping car coming from Sofia is attached to The Independent
Nikitas Kaklamanis the night train from Thessaloniki to Athens, so if you are the on what’s happening around the Pocket world,
Mayor of Athens romantic type and in no rush, the Sofia-Athens international as well as win exclusive prizes. You will also find
rail journey is an option. Finally for the really adventurous out first about new guides, new bars, restaurants “The secret of the In Your Pocket guides is
rail lovers, Russian and Ukranian railways operate direct etc., and our team is also on hand to answer any that, unlike many expensive travel guides,
services from Moscow and Kyiv to Thessaloniki but only travel questions. they are written by native English speakers
during the summer. Find us on Twitter at twitter.com/inyour- living in the city they are writing about. That
Arriving by air pocket and on Facebook at facebook.com/ can lend itself to frank, matter-of-fact advice
Eleftherios Venizelos Athens International Airport City of Athens Info-Points inyourpocket. about your destination rather than jaded
The primary entry into Athens is its new airport, situated 27
impressions from world-weary professional
km (16.8 miles) east of Athens. To get to town you have a Make In Your Pocket better travel writers.”
choice between metro, suburban railway, bus, taxi and, of Tell us about your experiences in Pocket cities. A The Irish Times
course, car hire. year or so ago In Your Pocket took the interactive
plunge and began allowing readers to post com- “With so many European cities now within
Metro is probably the best option (40 minutes to the cen- easy range of a low-cost airline flight, this web-
tre of Athens). However, the construction of new stations
ments under our own reviews. The response has
been incredible, nowhere more so than in Riga, site is a (literally) priceless first stop before
along the line has caused the suspension of the service
for six months. where the famous rip-off joint Lord Pub has gar- your holiday. The guides are free to download
Suburban railway-Proastiakos (running every 30 min- nered so many comments from angry readers that and print off as pdfs and have information
utes) will take you to Nerantziotissa station, where you at one stage earlier this year our system couldn’t on where to eat and stay and what to see on
must change to enter the metro system. Tickets cost €6 cope: we had to reconfigure it to accommodate all European city breaks.”
for a single ride (€10 for two and €15 for three persons the feedback. All of our venues - and most of our The Times
traveling together). The city of Athens has introduced two Info-Points to features - are now open blogs ready for your com-
The bus ticket costs €3.20 and will take you to the follow- welcome visitors. Trained staff are ready to answer all
ing destinations: Bus X92 to Kifisia, Bus X93 to the central ments. If you have something to say on Warsaw’s “In Your Pocket guides are each written by an
your questions and provide information and guidance. raunchiest nightlife venues, say it at inyourpocket. English language writer who lives locally. All
intercity bus station, Bus X94 to Ethniki Amyna metro sta- The first Info-Point is located inside the Eleftherios
tion, Bus X95 to Syntagma Square, Bus X96 to Piraeus & com. If you want to flaunt your Cornish nationalist information is also available on the publisher’s
Venizelos airport arrival hall and the second inside the
the harbour and Bus X97 to Dafni metro station. Public department store, right on the central Syntagma credentials, do it at inyourpocket.com. Our local website.”
All the above except Bus X94 run 24hrs. square. editors are encouraged to reply to comments and Sueddeutsche Zeitung
Indicatively, it takes about 45 minutes to get to Syntagma This second point also serves as a “Breathtaking” store, make a point of taking on board what our readers
Square by bus, but that of course depends on the traffic. an outlet for the new line of Athens branded souvenirs are telling us. While we vet all comments before “The In Your Pocket series of guide booklets
You can always pick up a taxi which costs about €35 du- produced by a top Greek designer.
ring daytime and €45-50 between 00:00 and 05:00 (but
publication, if you provide a valid email address have turned out to be highly useful in avoiding
refer to our taxi advice). we usually publish them all. So let rip! tourist traps and other travel hazards. A mix of
The Athens Tourism and Economic Development Com-
Finally, all major car rental companies keep desks inside pany has also launched two functional and informative
Lonely Planet and Time Out, they have beco-
the airport building. An array of shops and services is websites packed with information about the city. Check The In Your Pocket iPhone app me a European publishing phenomenon.”
available at the airport such as a post office, banks, news- them out at: www.breathtakingathens.com & www. It will be in the iTunes app store very soon Watch International Herald Tribune
stands, cafés, even an airport museum. athensconventionbureau.gr this space!

Athens In Your Pocket athens.inyourpocket.com August - September 2010


8 Basics basics 9

Facts & Figures Time Electricity Famous Greeks [13]


European style two pin sockets are used and electricity
Official country name: Hellenic Republic comes at 230V 50Hz AC. Adaptors are available at most
Population: (2001 census) 10.9 million Greece is in the Eastern European Time zone (EET):
hotels and electrical appliance shops, as well as at the
Total territory: 131,944 sq km (51,458 sq mi) GMT +2 hours. Between the last Sunday of March and Airport shops.
Athens population: 3.8 million the last Sunday of October Greece is in the Eastern
Religion: 98% Greek Orthodox, 1.5% Muslim European Summer Time Zone (EEST): GMT +3 hours
Political system: Parliamentary democracy Etiquette
GDP per capita: $ 32,000 (2009) Greeks like to think of themselves as a nation apart from all
Inflation rate: 5.1 % (Jun) the rest. They believe they are direct descendants of their
Unemployment rate: 12.1% (Feb)
Highest point: Mount Olympus 2,917m Customs illustrious ancient forebears and they are very proud of their
history and past. They tend to think that the rest of the world,
Length of coastline: 15,021 km There are no restrictions placed upon incoming travelers although it revolves around them, is constantly conspiring
from other E.U. countries (with the exception of tobacco and against them and never understands them.
alcohol products, which are restricted to amounts corres- If you avoid questioning the...obvious correctness of these
Alcohol ponding to individual personal use only, i.e. 800 cigarettes
and 10lt of strong spirits per visitor).
views, most Greeks will lean over backwards to please you
as a guest. If you go out to dinner with locals, there is no way
Greeks tend to drink on social occasions and you will rarely If you are arriving from non-EU countries, you are entitled to you will be allowed to pay your share of the bill and if they ask
witness scenes of extreme drunkenness in the streets or import products of a total value of €175. Animals must have you to stay over at their house, they will in all likelihood offer
in bars, clubs etc. Alcohol is freely available 24 hours a day undergone all mandatory vaccinations and be equipped you their own bed, in order to make you feel as comfortable
even from kiosks in the streets. with passports. Strangely enough, you are not allowed to as possible. This is known as ‘filotimo’, a Greek word without
The common beer brands dominating the market are any- import the following: drugs, weapons, nuclear or biological an exact equivalent in English, meaning something between John Cassavetes 1929 - 1989
thing but local: Amstel and Heineken boast a combined mar- substances, explosives, flammable gases, protected spe- a sense of honour, dignity and pride and is a highly-praised
ket share of around 70%. However, over the last few years cies, animal products and pornographic material (as for this virtue in Greek society Jim Giannopoulos, CEO of 20th Century Fox, not showing
many new Greek brands have been introduced into the mar- last category, you shouldn’t worry, as you’ll be able to find it the bias of his Greek origin, he named John Cassavetes as
the father of independent American cinema – every mention
ket and are steadily gaining in popularity: Mythos and Alpha
are the most popular. Most other well-known international
aplenty once you’re in the country)
Health & Safety of the actor naturally conjures up the coveted title. A Greek-
American born in New York City, Cassavetes was baptised
brands are widely available.
Go easy on beer as most brands have an alcohol content
Disabled travellers Athens is a polluted city but has come a long way since the
eighties. New technology cars and buses and the transfer into acting upon graduation from the American Academy
of five percent or higher. Greeks generally drink beer in the Unfortunately, Athens is not a Special Needs-friendly city. of all heavy industries outside city limits have reduced emis- of the Dramatic Arts in 1950. His long career in the film,
summer months and usually as an accompaniment to their In fact, it is a disgrace that even the disabled residents sions to a bearable level for a city of its size. Depending on television, and stage arts broadly includes involvement in
meals. of the city itself face a nightmare whenever they need to atmospheric conditions though, you may still get the odd acting, directing, scoring, shooting, editing, producing, and
Stick to beer or wine unless you are absolutely certain of leave their homes. Authorities try to make their lives easier smoggy day and feel like you just woke up in Mexico City! marketing. Film credits include acting roles in iconic mov-
the quality of the spirits served. Some bar owners serve by constructing wheelchair and blind-person friendly pave- There are no widespread infectious diseases that should be ies The Dirty Dozen, in which Cassavetes received his only
cheap (methanol-based) spirit substitutes out of branded ments but, in practice, all these vital aids for the disabled of concern to the visitor and no vaccinations are required Academy Award nomination for Best Actor, and Rosemary’s
bottles and a great night out may end up in a miserable day are rendered useless by insensitive car and motorbike dri- prior to your visit. Greece has a relatively low (but steadily and Baby. Trained in the sub-Stanislavsky method, Cassavetes
in bed nursing a nasty hangover. vers, who park their vehicles in every last inch of available alarmingly rising) level of HIV infections. Complacency among found poetry in introspection, and refused to conform to
A visitor should not leave Athens without savouring Ouzo, space imaginable (including right in front of wheelchair ac- young people leads the authorities to run awareness-raising Hollywood ideals. As a writer, his distaste for constructs
the renowned Greek traditional spirit (together with scotch, cess ramps), making the life of even non-disabled pedestri- campaigns every so often. that impinged on character development gave way to plot
to be sure) that is best enjoyed with seafood meals. Dilu- ans a living hell. Restaurants and public buildings are obliged Tap water is chlorinated and perfectly safe. Or so the public structures that focused on improvisation. As such, it is
ted with water and ice, it becomes a lovely milky-coloured by law to offer easy access and specially adapted toilets for water company says. If you prefer bottled mineral water fitting Cassavetes was the first filmmaker to employ an
aniseed-flavoured drink, but be warned: it will give you the the disabled, but then again, laws are there to be broken... you can buy it everywhere cheap. Its street price is strictly experimental jazz musician in the form of Charles Mingus
worst hangover of your life if you consume it in excess. regulated (50c for a half litre bottle and 1 Euro for a 1.5 litre to create the soundtrack for Shadows, a general-release
bottle) as it is considered an essential amenity during the film focusing on the American outsider. Cassavetes’s
Mastiha is another pleasant, sweet-tasting spirit, made
with the resin of the Mastic tree and is an exclusive product
Drugs long hot summers. self-funded writing and directorial debut failed to achieve
of Chios island. All drugs are illegal in Greece and there is a strict zero- Athens is one of the safest European capitals (then again, American distribution upon release in 1959, though it won
Finally, Greece produces a plethora of international and local tolerance policy. However, smoking hash/cannabis does most guides for most capitals tend to claim the same). But the Critics Award at the Venice Film Festival and proved
grape varieties, which make very good wines. Retsina is of happen among young (and not-so-young) Athenians, but here we actually mean it. The good old cliché ‘if you don’t go popular with European audiences.
course the most famous of these, with a pine resin flavour, they usually do so in the privacy of their homes. Take looking for trouble you’ll be perfectly fine’ applies here too. American success as a director and producer came with
which is added during fermentation. It is, however, looked our word for it and don’t try to get your hands on dope. Petty crime does exist, but if you avoid certain areas, such as his second independent endeavour, Faces, released in
down upon by modern-day Athenians, who don’t think of the backstreets around Omonia and Vathis Squares, espe- 1968. Filmed mostly in Cassavetes’s own home, the movie
it as classy enough for their refined taste buds: more of a cially as a sole traveler, and keep an eye on your belongings, featured his wife, actress Gena Rowlands, and depicted
peasant or working class wine. your stay in Athens will be trouble-free. the gradual breakdown of a contemporary marriage –
Climate Women traveling alone may encounter the Mediterranean breakdown being a popular theme in Cassavetes’s oeuvre.
Bouzoukia temperament of some local men but this rarely goes beyond Nominated for three Academy Awards, Faces became the
first independent film produced and distributed by Cas-
a stare or a whistle.
This is an exclusively Greek institution, which has evolved Finally, you will definitely get thrown out of a bar if you get savetes’s own production company, Faces International, a
to survive many decades of Athenian nightlife: Well-known plastered and cause trouble.But that’s fair enough, isn’t it? company that would garner Academy Award nominations
Greek singers perform live most nights in ‘bouzoukia’ night- throughout Cassavetes’s career. In 1984, Cassavetes was
clubs and that’s where a visitor can get a first-hand experi- told he had six months to live, his body having been battered
ence of the truly local sense of fun. Although plate-smashing Metro by the ravages of alcoholism. This marked the final period of
is no longer en vogue, the heaps upon heaps of carnations It was finally constructed about a century after most of its creativity life that would eventually end in 1989, five years
showered upon singers as they perform songs from the European counterparts, but for that same reason, Athens after initial prognosis. His final film, She’s So Lovely, was
local popular repertoire, the endless quantities of scotch has one of the most luxurious and squeaky clean metro produced posthumously, directed by Cassavetes’s son,
downed in a single night and, no less, the scantily dressed systems in Europe. It only has two lines (plus a pre-existing Nick Cassavetes, starring John Travolta, Robin Wright-Penn,
young ladies dancing on the tables and singing along with one which runs over-ground) but its stations are lined with and Sean Penn who received the Best Actor Award at the
their favourite artists, all go a long way towards making this marble and granite and are generously and tastefully adorned prestigious Cannes Film Festival in 1997 for his role.
a not-to-be-missed experience for any visitor. with artworks and replicas of ancient objects (in some cases, *More famous Greeks to read online: www.inyourpocket.com
even showcasing original archaeological material).

Athens In Your Pocket athens.inyourpocket.com athens.inyourpocket.com August - September 2010


10 Basics basics 11

Money Olympic Games Stray dogs


Greece adopted the Euro currency on January 2, 2002.
Prices soared as a result of the conversion, a fact which still
Police emergency tel. 100 After being refused the centenary modern Olympics of 1996,
Athens was finally awarded the Games of 2004. Against all
Athens’ streets are littered with thousands of stray dogs,
a fact that, according to animal welfare organisations, con-
ranks high as a favourite (and heated) topic of discussion
among Greeks, usually embarked upon when presented
Ambulance tel. 166 international media odds, who worked overtime for their
respective governments, each outbidding the next in their
stitutes bad publicity for the city. The truth is, however, that
many of these animals are not abandoned in the streets but
are actually born there and live in neighbourhoods where
with their restaurant bill and suddenly filled with nostalgia
for the good-old Drachma days.
Fire Service tel. 199 efforts to sell overpriced and useless security systems, the
city organised a wonderful and absolutely safe Olympiad people feed and water them on a daily basis. Just before
Major international credit cards are accepted everywhere and that filled all Greeks with a sense of national solidarity and the Olympic Games, most strays were rounded up by the
travelers’ cheques can be cashed-in at hotels and banks. pride - and rightly so. This was, surely enough, before they authorities, vaccinated and sterilised, only to be placed right
Roads & Driving were presented with the eight billion Euro bill, whereupon back in their natural habitat, the streets. Most of them wear
collars and are harmless and quite friendly.
Music piracy Athenian drivers are a lot safer and more disciplined than
everyone came to the conclusion that the Olympics are no
business for a small country like this one...
The country features in the black list of international anti-
piracy organisations. Friendly smiling Nigerians equipped
those of Cairo, Istanbul and probably Bucharest…
They do stop at red traffic lights most times, but that’s about Smoking: Banned again! Tipping
with stacks of pirate CDs and DVDs can be found roaming it. Like their Balkan counterparts, they strongly believe that Service charge is included in the bill in all restaurants and
every neighbourhood of the city. heavy traffic can magically disappear at the touch of their Smoking was officially banned in cafés but if you are pleased with the service it is customary
Athenians tend to spend a lot of money on pirate music (or horn. They have no respect whatsoever for pedestrians and Greece in July 2009. However, like ev- to leave a few euros on the table. Ten percent is considered
they did before they started downloading it for free). Add cycling is a sure way to eventually land yourself as a client erything else in this country, the ban generous; something around five percent is the most
to that the Greek judges’ sympathy for the young Nigerians of the National Health Service (and that’s the last thing you was not a simple blanket measure for common practice. Tipping is expected in most expensive
when the unsympathetic police take them to court and you want to do, take our word for it). all. Establishments over 70 sqm were hotels and taxi drivers will round up the amount themselves
have one furious music industry. As a result, legitimate music Athenian roads are not in the best of conditions and this is obliged to provide separate smoking when they give you the change, so you shouldn’t worry
prices have been slashed during the last few years and you exacerbated by the complete lack of coordination between rooms and owners of places under about this!
can now buy top-selling music from €5 (which is the same the different governmental departments and public utility 70 sqm were free to decide whether
theirs will be a smoking place or not!
as the price for a pirate copy!) companies that regularly carry out roadworks and drill into
city streets. It is not rare to witness the electricity or water The results were satisfactory in most Visas
working places, but in wonderful Greece, laws rarely get in the There is no visa requirement to enter Greece for citizens
company men drilling into a street that has just had a new- of the E.U., Australia, Canada, Iceland, Israel, Japan, New
way of people’s lives and most bars and many restaurants
The Greek alphabet asphalt layer applied only a week earlier!
Cars are allowed into the city-centre (areas marked with a completely ignored the new law which became redundant in Zealand, Norway, Switzerland and the US.
practice. This was the reason the government came back and For a full list of countries exempt from visa requirements for
“Greek Delta” sign and called ‘Daktylios’) every second day, up to 90 days visit you can consult the Greek Foreign Ministry
depending on their registration plates (odd number plates announced, as we were going to press, that from September
The Greek alphabet looks scary but once you learn 1 2010 there will be a universal ban in all public places with website at: www.ypex.gov.gr.
on odd calendar days and even number plates accordingly).
how to pronounce each letter and combination of This measure was introduced back in 1982, in order to tackle an eight month transitional period just for casinos and night-
letters you can actually read Greek! Just give it a the increasing traffic and pollution problems of the time and clubs. Until then, non-smokers’ lives shouldn’t be too hard as
few minutes and you’ll be surprised. has become completely outdated nowadays. in the summer everything happens outdoors. The Athens tel. code is +30 210
The traffic in the centre cannot get any worse and although
Αα alfa pronounced as in cat public transport keeps improving with the introduction of new
Ββ beta as in vino metro stations and tram lines, Athenians are so enamoured
Γγ gama as in yet
Δδ delta as in the
of their cars that only a total ban would improve traffic condi-
tions (and would then, with mathematical precision, lead to
Athens Portraits [12]
Εε epsilon as in set a full-scale revolt).
Ζζ zita as in zebra Parking in the city centre is regulated Mon-Fri 09:00-21:00, Culture Vultures
Ηη ita as in six Sat 09:00-16:00 and is allowed only on white lines. The They have studied hard for their visit to the city that gave
Θθ theta as in theme ridiculously complicated pricing system is as follows: 50c for They’re easy to spot as they step out of the Metro at Mo- birth to democracy, having greedily absorbed every book and
Ιι ghiota as in six the first half hour increasing by 50c for every subsequent half nastiraki, blinking like owls in the bright sunshine as they documentary about Ancient Athens that they could get their
Κκ kapa as in key hour and up to two hours (€2). For two and a half hours you consult their academic guidebooks and hands on. They may even have taken
Λλ lamda as in love have to pay €4 and for three hours, which is the maximum check their maps. night classes in Greek (though they’re
Μμ mi as in man time allowed, €6. Blue lines are reserved for residents and In baggy shorts, cotton socks and comfort- unlikely to be ready for the blank stares
Νν ni as in new yellow ones for public services and retail professionals. able sandals, they stand out from the usual they’ll get from the locals when they ask
Ξξ ksi as in text If you prefer to opt for something simpler, this comes at a tourist crowd. They’re dressed for comfort in heavily-accented Ancient Greek how
Οο omikron as in box price: Parking lots, over and under ground, are scattered not style. After all, it’s the siren’s call of to get to Hadrian’s Gate).
Ππ pi as in power around the centre and start at €5 per hour up to a minimum culture and not a package holiday of the hoi
Ρρ rho as in run of €15 for a whole day. polloi that has brought them to Greece. Modern Athens can come as a bit of
Σσ sigma as in sun a shock to their system. Where they
Ττ tau as in tea For years they have dreamed of walking have imagined civilised debate in the
Υυ
Φφ
ipsilon as in six
fi as in fun
National Holidays in the footsteps of Pericles, standing on leafy foothills of the Acropolis, they
the very same spot in the Agora where are more likely to find a noisy crush of
Χχ chi as in hi Jan 1 New Year’s Day (Protochronia) Socrates once proclaimed on the meaning humanity (half of which keep trying to
Ψψ psi as in tips Jan 6 Epiphany (Theofania) of life, or climbing the rock from where St sell them plastic novelties as they study
Ωω omega as in box Feb 15 ( mov) Ash Monday (Kathari Deftera) Peter addressed the Athenians a couple their phrase books and sip their coffee
Mar 25 Independence (Ikosti Pempti Martiou) of millennium ago. And now that they’re at the pavement cafeteria). The cars,
Note that ita (η), giota (ι), ipsilon (υ) as well as (ει) Apr 4 (mov) Easter Sunday (Pascha) here, they’re determined to soak up every drop of Greek the fumes, the cement, the litter – it’s not quite what they
and (οι) are pronounced exactly the same. Apr 5 (mov) Easter Monday (Deftera Pascha) atmosphere. had in mind.
(ο) and (ω)are pronounced the same too, May 1 Labour Day (Protomagia) But they don’t care. The glory that once was Athens
(ου) is pronounced oo, (αι) is pronounced e, (ευ) is May 24 (mov) Holy Spirit Monday (Agiou Pnevmatos) Unlike ‘Touristas Gormless’, those gaudy and garrilous is the reason they’re here. And although they may need to
pronounced ev and (αυ) is pronounced av. Aug 15 Assumption of Virgin Mary (Dekapen- visitors that flock to Greece every summer, Culture Vultures scratch the surface of the dirty, bustling, modern city to see,
Once you remember the above, you can (with a little tavgoustos) have little interest in sun, sea and gallons of ouzo. They it is still there – for the Greeks are just as much in love with
practice) read everything written in Greek. As for Oct 28 1940 refusal to yield to the Axis know that they won’t find fish ‘n’ chips in the narrow streets that ancient glory as they are.
understanding...that’s a whole different story and will Dec 25 Christmas Day (Christougenna) of Plaka, and they’re glad of it.
take some serious effort, practice and time. Dec 26 Boxing Day * More Athens portraits to read online: www.inyourpocket.com

Athens In Your Pocket athens.inyourpocket.com athens.inyourpocket.com August - September 2010


12 history history 13

BC AD 1821: The Greek Revolution against Turkish occupation


c.3000BC: Evidence of human habitation at the foot of the 54: The Apostle Paul visits Athens and delivers the Sermon begins.
Acropolis hill in Athens. on Aeropagus Hill. 1827: The fleet of the mediating powers (France, Britain,
2700-1450BC: The Minoan Civilisation flourishes in Crete 150: Herod Atticus becomes governor of Athens, constructs Russia) destroys the Turkish fleet at Navarino. End of Otto-
and the Aegean, centred on the palaces at Knossos and the theatre at the foot of the Acropolis that bears his name. man Rule in Greece.
Phaestus in Crete, with trade relations with Egypt and 330: Constantine the Great transfers the capital of the Ro- 1830: Greek sovereignty recognised under the London
Syria. man Empire to Byzantium, which is renamed Constantinople. Protocol. Nauplion becomes the first capital of independent
1700-1100BC: Rise of the Mycenaean Civilisation. Myce- The Byzantine Empire is established. Before his death, Greece.
naean trade with Egypt and the Eastern Mediterranean. Suc- Constantine the Great establishes Christianity as the official 1831-1834: The assassination of the first governor of
cessive invasions of the Greek (Hellenic) Tribes: Achaeans, religion of the Byzantine Empire. Greece, Ioannis Kapodistrias, leads to the establishment of
Aeolians, Ionians and Dorians. A royal fortress is built on 529: Philosophical academies closed by Emperor Justinian monarchy by the foreign powers. Bavarian King Otto I arrives
the Athenian Acropolis. I, temples reconsecrated as Christian churches. in Greece and Athens is established as the new capital.
1200BC: Upon his return to the city after slaying the Mi- 1054: Schism between the Eastern Orthodox and (Western) 1838: The Royal Palace (now the House of Parliament) com-
notaur in Crete and rescuing Athenians held captive by King Roman Catholic Churches. pleted on Syntagma Square.
Minos, King Theseus unites the province of Attica with Athens 1204: Capture of Constantinople during the Fourth Crusade 1843: King Otto grants a constitution and representative
as its capital. Legend has it that he forgot to hoist the white by the Franks and Venetians. Assembly, following popular uprisings.
sail to show his father, Aegeus, that he survived. In his grief, 1453: Sultan Mohammed II captures Constantinople. End 1863: King Otto is dethroned and prince William of Denmark
the old man hurled himself to his death in the sea which was of the Byzantine Empire. is crowned King of Greece under the name George I. He brings
later named the Aegean after him. 1456: Capture of Athens by Omar. the Ionian islands as a coronation gift from Britain.
1100BC: The collapse of the Mycenaean Civilisation is fol- 1460-1715: Turks occupy all of Greece after continuous 1866: Cretan uprisings against the Ottomans lead to war
lowed by the Hellenic Dark Ages. Aeolian, Ionian and Dorian warfare with the Venetians. between Greece and Turkey.
Greek colonisation of Asia Minor. 1687: Venetians lay siege to Athens under Morosini. The 1877: Prime Minister Charilaos Trikoupis introduces mea-
c.1000BC: The city limits of Athens expand, construction Acropolis, which was used as a Turkish gunpowder store, is sures that limit the power of the monarchy to interfere in
of the first Agora. partially destroyed. democratic institutions.
8th century BC: Greeks found colonies around the Mediter- 1801: Lord Elgin removes Parthenon marbles to London. 1896: The first modern Olympic Games held in Athens.
ranean basin. Rise of aristocracies throughout Greece.
776BC: The first Olympic Games in history, held at Olympia, Plato and Aristotle in ‘The School of Athens’ by Raphael
mark the beginning of the Classical Greek period. 20th & 21st centuries
621BC: Dracon drafts strict new ‘draconian’ law code in
Athens. 461-429BC: Named by historians ‘The Golden Age’ of A-
1910: Cretan politician Eleftherios Venizelos is elected and the National Army supported by the British. After a
c.600BC: Athens wins Salamis from neighbouring Megara thens. During this period, Athens establishes the Athenian (or
prime minister of Greece. month of intense fighting, the guerrillas surrender.
and founds a colony, Sigeum, at the mouth of the Hel- Delian) League and takes control of a large number of Greek
1912: First Balkan War. Greece, Serbia, Montenegro and 1945: A period of persecution against anyone suspected
lespont. city-members of the League. Athens and its allies pursue an
Bulgaria fight against the Ottomans. Greece obtains parts as a communist drives thousands of people to the moun-
594-593BC: Archonship of Solon. First democratic reforms in offensive war against both the Persians and the Peloponne-
of Macedonia, Epirus and the north Aegean islands. tains.
Athens (cancellation of debts, replacement of birth by wealth sian League led by the Spartans. In 451BC, Athenians and
1913: Second Balkan War. Greece and Serbia fight against 1947: A guerrilla army is put together on the mountains by
as the criterion for office, creation of a people’s court). Spartans sign a five-year truce, which lasts until 446, where-
Bulgaria. Crete unites with Greece. the Communist Party and a bitter three-year civil war erupts.
566BC: First Panathenaic Games held in Athens to honour upon begins the period known as the ‘Thirty Year Peace’.
1914: King Constantine insists that Greece remains The Dodecanese islands are united with Greece, giving the
Athena, goddess of Wisdom and patron-goddess of the During this period, Athens reached the peak of its prosperity.
neutral during the First World War. Venizelos wants to enter country its final shape.
city. Democracy, science, philosophy, drama, architecture, scul-
the war on the side of the Allies. The King flees the country 1949: The National Army, with heavy support from the US,
561-560BC: Peisistratus seizes power and becomes pture, all flourished. The Parthenon, among other architectural
and Greece enters the war. drives back the guerrillas through the northern borders of
tyrant in Athens. masterpieces, is built between 447-437BC.
1919: The Allies award Venizelos, being on the winners’ side, Greece. More than 50,000 communists and their families
c.530 BC: New temple of Athena built on the Acropolis. 438BC: Large chryselephantine (gold-and-ivory) statue of
certain parts of Turkish and Bulgarian Thrace and the right become political refugees behind the Iron Curtain.
510BC: Hippias, the son of Peisistratus, is overthrown from Athena set up in the Parthenon.
to place troops in the area of Smyrna on the Turkish coast, 1952: Greece joins NATO.
the dictatorship in Athens with help from Sparta. Cleisthenes 431BC: The peace is broken with the onset of the Pelopon-
where a large and prosperous Greek population exists. 1962: Greece becomes the first associated member of the
takes charge in Athens. nesian War. Athens goes at war with Sparta once again.
1921: The Greek troops begin a massive campaign and European Community.
508-507BC: Democratic reforms of Cleisthenes in Athens 430-428BC: The plague decimates a quarter of the popula-
advance towards Ankara. 1967: A group of middle ranking army officers seize power
upheld by the ‘Ekklesia’ (public assembly of male Athenian tion of Athens, including Pericles.
1922: The resurgent Turkish army drives the Greeks back and a seven-year dictatorship begins. King Constantine II
citizens with the right to vote at public hearings and elect 415BC:Athenian expedition sails to Sicily under Alcibi-
to the coast and Smyrna is burnt down on August 31. More flees the country. Military junta led by Colonel Papadopoulos
magistrates). ades.
than a million Greeks abandon their homes and become rules Greece.
499BC: Beginning of the Persian wars with the revolt of 404BC: The end of the Peloponnesian war and Athens’ sur-
refugees on the Greek mainland. There follows a massive 1973: In November, an uprising of students in Athens against
the Ionian city-states against Darius. Athens sends a fleet render usher in Sparta’s hegemony in the Hellenic world. This
exchange of populations between Greece and Turkey, based the dictatorial regime, known as the Athens Polytechnic
in support of the Ionians. Darius pledges to avenge the is followed by a short period of Theban dominance.
on religious faith, under the Treaty of Lausanne. Uprising, is crushed with bullets and tanks.
Athenians. 360BC: Philip II is crowned king of Macedon and the period
1940: After occupying Albania, Italy demands the right of 1974: A coup in Cyprus results in Turkish invasion and oc-
490BC: The Athenians block the Persian invasion with their of the kingdom’s dominance begins.
passage through Greece. Greeks respond to the Italian cupation of the northern part of the island. Military regime
victory in the battle of Marathon. Legend has it that Pheidip- 356BC: Alexander the Great, son of Philip II, is born in
ultimatum with a single word, “No”, on October 28. Greek collapses in Athens. A Republic is proclaimed by referendum.
pides, an Athenian herald, ran from the battlefield back to Pella.
troops repel the Italian forces into the Albanian mountains, Presidential democracy adopted.
Athens to announce the triumph with the word ‘nenikikamen’ 336BC: Philip dies and Alexander succeeds him as King
advancing towards Albania during the winter. 1981: Greece becomes the tenth member of the European
(we won) and died on the spot. This story inspired the modern of Macedon.
1941: In April, Germany invades Greece and the country Community.
Marathon run. 334-323BC: Alexander is proclaimed King of all Hellenes
is occupied by German, Italian and Bulgarian forces. The 1985: Athens becomes Europe’s first Cultural Capital.
490-480BC: Extraction of silver ore from the mines at and embarks on the conquest of Persian lands, expanding
big famine of the winter of 1941 leaves more than 40,000 2002: Greece joins the Euro zone and abandons the
Laurion, used for minting the Athenian silver ‘owl’ coins that his empire as far as Egypt and India.
dead, mainly in Athens and other major cities. Greeks take to drachma after 167 years.
financed the expansion of Athens’ navy. 323BC: Alexander dies in Babylon and the Hellenistic
the mountains, form resistance groups and declare a ‘Free 2004: Greece successfully organises the Olympic Games.
480BC: King Leonidas of Sparta, vastly outnumbered by Period begins. Macedonia becomes dominant in the Hel-
Greece’ on the inaccessible mountainous mainland. 2009: Centre-left PASOK party wins the national elec-
the Persian army under Xerxes, falls with his warriors in the lenic World.
1944: The last Wermacht soldier departs from Athens on tions and Giorgos Papandreou becomes Grecce’s new
battle of Thermopylae. The Persians sack Athens but are 146BC: Greece becomes a province of the Roman Empire.
October 12. Greek and British troops enter the liberated Prime Minister.
badly defeated in the naval battle of Salamis. 86BC: Following Athens’ support to Mithridates, king of
capital. In December, fighting breaks out in the streets of 2010: Karolos Papoulias, is elected President of the
479BC: Persians defeated at Plataea. Rebuilding of Athens Pontus, Sulla attacks the city. Athens loses all political
Athens between communist supported resistance groups Republic for a second five year term.
begins, including the construction of Long Walls linking the influence and Corinth is established as the capital of the
city to the port of Piraeus. Roman province.

Athens In Your Pocket athens.inyourpocket.com athens.inyourpocket.com August - September 2010


14 Districts of Athens districts of athens 15

Plaka Psirri
Athens in two days D4 Bordered by Athinas, Ermou, Pireos, Evripidou
E5,E6,F6 Bordered by the Acropolis, Amalias and Streets. MMonastiraki, Thissio.
Mitropoleos Streets. MSyntagma, Monastiraki. This neighbourhood of narrow streets, workshops, ware-
This is what Athens has to offer as an old town, a district most houses and wholesale shops of every kind, established itself
visitors feel obliged (and rightly so) to pass through at least as the ‘Soho’ of Athens about fifteen years ago. (Since then,
once, but few Athenians visit for their entertainment needs. this title has been variously attributed to each new nightlife
Countless tourist shops, selling kitsch ancient replicas and hub that springs up in previously deprived areas). Count-
tasteless souvenirs and many moussaka-restaurants, less bars, clubs, theatres, restaurants and cafés catered
most dating back to the 1970s, give the visitor a cliched for mixed crowds but the area has been in a steady decline
and somehow false view of Athens. However, if you wander as a nightlife destination, as the masses started to move
off the beaten track, through its picturesque and serene elsewhere. The food is generally average, with some excep-
meandering streets leading up to the Acropolis, you can tions, and some bars sell spirits of a low quality disguised
discover a plethora of architectural gems giving a unique feel in branded bottles (colloquially called ‘bombs’). Restaurants
of the city at the beginning of the twentieth century, as well A view from the Acropolis AIYP
with live Greek music often charge higher prices than the
as discovering many small museums to keep you occupied
for hours. The old neighbourhood of ‘Anafiotica’ just under Thissio quality of their food justifies, but if you want to experience
dancing and singing the Greek way, do enter any of them on
the Acropolis rock will give you a déjà-vu of your last Greek B5,C5,C6 Bordered by Ermou Street, Philopappou Hill, a Saturday evening, or even better a Sunday afternoon.
island holiday, right in the centre of Athens. Ancient Agora, MThissio.
One of the oldest districts of Athens. The Acropolis towering
Day One (see map trail pg 78-79): Kolonaki above and its many neoclassical buildings preserve the aura Omonia Square
Start your day early in Syntagma Square. See the H4,H5,I5 Bordered by: Vassilisis Sofias, Akadimias of a bygone era. Walk around the Ancient Agora and Philopap- and the area west of Athinas & September 3rd
changing of the guard in front of the House of Parlia- Streets and Lycabettus hill.MSyntagma. pou hill, soak up the atmosphere of the cradle of western Streets. D2,D3,E2,E3 MOmonia.
ment (on the hour) and walk along Amalias Avenue. Anyone who is (or thinks he is) anyone, lives or hangs around civilisation, imagine Socrates conversing with his disciples on This central square is the Balkan face of Athens. Buzzing
Enter the National Gardens, pass Zappeion and head Kolonaki Square (Filikis Eterias Square). The Athenian élite of these very same grounds and attune yourself to the rhythm and ugly, gritty and colourful, its working class crowds
towards the Panathenaic Stadium. Walk down Vasilis- politicians, high profile journalists, actors, models and power- of life of modern city-dwellers sipping their indispensable
sis Olgas Avenue, pass Hadrian’s Arch and the Temple mingle with immigrants, street traders, lottery ticket sellers
ful businessmen, together with idle non-working residents ‘frappé’ (iced coffee the Greek way) at one of the countless and, occasionally, weird and suspicious figures. If you head
of Olympian Zeus and cross to Plaka. Allow yourself who spend their days in the numerous posh cafés and restau- outdoor cafés directly facing the Sacred Rock.
to wander around its picturesque meandering streets towards the back streets to the west of the square you’ll
rants, mingle, show off and decide the future of the country. find yourself in the Athenian version of a China town, where
and stop for a coffee at one of the numerous cafés.
All the expensive fashion boutiques are based here, and the
Walk along pedestrianised Dionisiou Areopagitou street,
climb the Acropolis hill and enjoy the pride of western
nightlife is designed to please the above-mentioned crowds, Makrigianni other predominant nationalities are Pakistanis and Africans.
A few surviving neoclassical buildings come as a welcome
civilisation. Once you’re done with the sacred rock head as well as visitors who come here from the rest of Athens to E7,E8 Bordered by the Acropolis, Philopappou hill, contrast to the concrete of the square, the looks of which
to the new Acropolis Museum before you stop for get a taste of the high life. Beach attire, large groups of lads Syngrou Ave. MAcropolis.A district overwhelmed by most Athenians hated as soon as it was reconstructed a
a late lunch-Greek style somewhere around Thissio and the matching attitude should be avoided, if you wish to sixties blocks of flats (like most of Athens of course) with few years ago.
station. Afternoon is time to visit Kerameikos with its pass through the strict ‘face control’ of the bouncers and some forgotten neoclassical treasures amongst them,
ancient cemetery, the Ancient Agora and the bustling spend a night among Athens’ ‘beautiful people’. Makrigianni hasn’t so far had very much to offer the visitor
and quaint Monastiraki Flea Market. Have an aperitif at except its proximity to the ancient monuments and some
tourist shops and restaurants. To be sure, this was the case
nearby Psirri district and round off the evening with a late
dinner accompanied by live Greek music, or head to Gazi Gazi until the New Acropolis Museum, the pride and joy of the
where you can combine dinner with late drinks. A4 Bordered by Pireos, Iera Odos, Konstantinoupoleos capital, finally opened its doors and thereafter transformed
Streets. M Kerameikos. the district into one of the foremost attractions for visitors
Day Two: The top nightlife hot spot of the capital, characterised by the and Athenians alike.
Begin the day at the top end of Ploutarchou Street in old factory that used to produce gas for lighting the streets
Kolonaki, from where you will board the scenic funicular and houses of the city many decades ago. Fortunately, the
(runs every half hour €6) or walk the lovely pine-lined Municipality of Athens preserved the old factory building Commercial triangle (Historic Centre)
pedestrianised path up Lycabettus hill (about 300m). and transformed it into the ‘Technopolis’ cultural centre
where concerts, exhibitions and festivals take place. With E4,E5,F4,F5 Bordered by Stadiou, Athinas and Ermou
Take in the breathtaking views of the Acropolis and the
the completion of Kerameikos metro station in 2007, the St. MMonastiraki, Syntagma, Panepistimio.
panorama of Athens and the Saronic Gulf sprawled
at your feet. Seize the opportunity to visit the historic area took off and it is now a top choice for entertainment A complex of narrow streets lined with shops selling every-
white-washed church of Saint George crowning the hill among young Athenians. A good number of gay bars and thing you can imagine, this is the traditional shopping heart
before taking the funicular back down. Make your way clubs have given the homosexual community of Athens a of the city. It used to be dead quiet in the evenings, but
to Panepistimio station and board the metro to Victoria, night-time destination, although one cannot describe Gazi when neighbouring Psirri started becoming saturated with
from where you will cross to the National Archaeologi- as a gay district. nightspots of all kinds, entertainment entrepreneurs took the
cal Museum. Allow at least two hours for your visit, be- opportunity to cross Athinas street and liven up this historic
part of the capital. The establishments in this area of town
fore stopping for a light lunch at the Museum restaurant
or at one of the numerous Bohemian establishments
Exarchia tend to maintain a certain individuality and character and
F2,G2,H2 Bordered by: Asklipiou, Akadimias, Patision target more selective audiences.
lining Exarchia Square. Board the metro to Syntagma
(October 28th) Streets. MOmonia.
station, where you will change to the Tram that will take
Neighbouring Kolonaki but at the exact opposite end of
you down to Athens’ southern coastal suburbs. Enjoy
your leisurely ride, taking in the golden sea views along the spectrum, this is the traditional alternative corner of Metaxourgio
the way. Get off at ‘Parko Flisvou’ stop in Paleo Faliro Athens inhabited by old Athenians and frequented by young B3,C3 Bordered by Pireos, Iera Odos, Achilleos Streets.
and walk along the seaside palm-lined esplanade, stop- Bohemian intellectuals, leftists, students, rockers and an- MKerameikos.
ping off for a coffee at one of the numerous cafés (we archists. The nightlife here is excellent, and as you’d expect This is the latest up and coming area of the capital, with
recommend a freddocinno!). Enjoy lounging at the beach a lot more relaxed and laid back. Nobody cares about what a new bar, restaurant or art venue appearing every few
before taking the Tram back to downtown Athens and you wear or who you are. The old days’ frequent riots are days. Like many other European cities, Athens is gradu-
rounding the day off with dinner somewhere around now rare (with the exeption of December 2008) but there is ally rediscovering its neglected and forsaken districts of
Monastiraki Station with its numerous lively live-music always a refreshing revolutionary feeling to make restless ill repute and transforming them into night-time hot spots.
establishments or, if posh dining is more up your street, minds feel at home. The shoddy brothels still operate here around the clock,
head to Kolonaki. but, at night, the fashionable crowds of the capital reclaim
athens.inyourpocket.com the neighbourhood.

Athens In Your Pocket athens.inyourpocket.com athens.inyourpocket.com August - September 2010


16 Greek islands Greek islands 17

10 unknown gems 3. Kastelorizo 4.Patmos


In our last issue we presented our Top 10 popular Greek
islands. All of them have been classic holiday destinations
for decades.

To balance the scales in this issue we have a different Top


10, one of unspoiled and unknown to the masses destina-
tions. Many of the 227 inhabited Greek islands fit the bill
and it was really tough to chose ten for this feature. Those
we have picked (the order in they are listed is unimportant)
share some common characteristics:

-They’re all unspoilt by tourism and have been discovered


by wider crowds only during the last few years.
-They offer quiet and tranquil holidays - so if you’re looking
for serious nightlife, pick up our previous issue.
-For that same reason they’re more sutable to couples or Kastelorizo sea front The view of Skala from Hora
families as opposed to large groups of lads or girls. The likeli- There is a holy atmosphere everywhere on the island with
hood of mating there is much lower than in massive charter Kastelorizo is so isolated that it is hardly included in
many maps of Greece. It is the easternmost Greek piece hundreds of little churches and the imposing monastery
ridden islands too (but then again you never know). in Hora where John visioned and wrote The Apocalypse
-They are less easily accessible than the popular holiday of land (with the exception of a couple of rocky islets)
and lies about 1.5 km off the Turkish coast. Colourful of Jesus Christ (The Book of Revelations). Hora (the main
destinations and it can take many hours on a slow lousy village on the island) looms on top of the rocky mountain.
ferry to reach them. preserved stone houses with wooden balconies on the
waterfront hide many others that remain in ruins after a Walk in its quiet and narrow streets among the hundreds
-They mostly attract upmarket tourism and travellers who of whitewashed houses and you’ll feel the mysterious
love to discover new places, so if the lager consuming crowds large fire during WWII that almost destroyed the village.
An Ottoman mosque and the building that housed the atmosphere whether you’re religious or not. Skala is the
are more up your street, again pick up our previous issue. harbour and where most nightlife is concentrated (but
Italian administration remind the visitors of the island’s
rich history. Kastelorizo used to have more than ten don’t expect wild nights out on Patmos). The beaches of
This second part concludes our little summer island special the island are above average: Psili Ammos is the most
and we hope we’ve given you enough teasers to either plan thousand inhabitants but these days there are only four
hundred left. The coastline of the island is steep and isolated one and Agrio Livadi and Kampos the most
next year’s holiday or immediately abandon the capital, popular. No airport on the island, so you’’ll have to fly to
head to Piraeus and get on the first ferry departing to the rocky so don’t expect top class beaches. Olympic airlines
operate daily flights from Rhodes. Kos and get the local ferry.
blue Aegean waters.

1. Symi 2. Paxoi 5. Ikaria 6. Anafi

The colourful harbour of Symi No tourist development on the island Armenistis The harbour of Anafi
Probably the poshest and most expensive in this group The smallest of the Ionian islands (the group west Ikaria is an island like no other. The concept of time You must be determined to have a quiet holiday on a
of ten and a favourite among yachters and international of the mainland) is a giant olive grove surrounded by here is different from the rest of the world and it is worth beautiful isolated island if you embark on the little odys-
jet-setters, Symi is a small island near the Turkish coast. clear blue waters. It attracts quality tourism in smaller visiting it if only to experience a lifestyle long gone in the sey necessary to reach Anafi. Although just a few miles
Yalos, with its colourful Neoclassical houses, is the is- numbers compared to its neighbours but during August western world. The island is dead until midday, shops away from Santorini, all high speed ferries end their
land’s harbour while Ano Symi, five hundred stone stairs it is impossible to find accommodation. There are many open in the evening and stay open until the early morn- journey there and your only option is the old slow and un-
up, is the main town built around an old fortress. There pebbly beaches on the island -mainly on the eastern ing hours. It is not uncommon for people to walk into a reliable ferries that can take up to 18 hours from Piraeus
are a number of excellent beaches on the island, and coast- and you can get to the most isolated ones by hiring shop, pick up what they need, leave the corresponding (alternatively take the fast ferry or fly to Santorini and
most are reachable only on boats departing from the a small motor boat for the day (no licence necessary). money and go, simply because the shopkeeper is not then hope for a local boat on that day). You’ll be rewarded
harbour frequently. The guest house of the monastery The western part of the island is rocky with caves. Gaios there. Ikaria is also famous for its ‘Panigiria’, huge however as you’ll have one of the most tranquil holidays
of Archangel Michael Panormitis is a good alternative is the main village and harbour and Lakka is a smaller village parties in honour of the patron Saint where of your life. Hora is as usual, bright white and built on top
to stay if you arrive during the peak season when ac- picturesque village with nice little streets and traditional everyone eats drinks and dances the night away in the of a mountain with a breathtaking view of the Aegean
commodation can be an issue. Best way to get to Symi houses. For even more tranquility and isolation visit the village square. Having said all the above it is not surpris- while the island’s 5-6 beaches (the best known of them
is on a sailing boat but for the less lucky of you there are island’s tiny satelite Antipaxoi. A local ferry connects ing that with such a relaxed lifestyle people here have is Roukounas), are top class. You and your companion
frequent boat connections from Rhodes. Paxoi with Corfu and the rest of the Ionian islands. one of the highest life expectancies in the world. will have a few hundred square metres of fine sand all to
yourselves - even if you come in mid-August.

Athens In Your Pocket athens.inyourpocket.com athens.inyourpocket.com August - September 2010


18 Greek Islands athens beaches 19

7. Samothraki 8. Elafonisos

Typical Samothraki nature Simos beach


Lying in the northeastern Aegean, Samothraki boasts If you love spending your days on a beach with white
some of the most diverse natural beauty in the country. powder sand and crystal emerald waters and you can’t
Olive groves and sandy beaches on the south resemble be bothered with long ferry rides, then Elafonisos is
a typical Greek island. But the forests of chesnut trees your holiday destination. Just a few minutes off the
and ancient oaks in the north with the hundreds of fresh Peloponese mainland, all this tiny island has to offer
water springs, rivers, small waterfalls and ‘vathres’ (small is a beach. But what a beach - many insist it is one of
lakes of fresh water) where swimming is possible, are all the top 3 in Greece. We guarantee that you’re going to
trademarks of this unique island. You can therefore enjoy spend more time in the water than out of it and that
a mountain break within your island holiday, with excellent you’ll go back home completely rejuvenated. The small
mountaineering and trecking opportunities. Forget about village is just 5 km from Simos and offers all the neces-
sea food too. Here you’ll enjoy delicious goat and kid meat sary amenities and some very good seafood tavernas.
cooked in every possible way. The most popular of the There is an organised camping site on the beach. We Athens is surrounded by water and most of the beaches Grand Beach, Lagonissi 40km Tel. 22910 76000 KTEL
island’s beaches are Pachia Ammos and Kipi and the highly recommend that you combine Elafonisos with around the city are easily accessible by public transport. (intercity) bus from Pedion to Areos to Sounio, bus stop
best way to get there is fly to Alexandroupolis or Kavala a tour of the southern Peloponese (Mani, Kalamata The Athenian beaches fall into two broad categories, basically Lagonissi €3.30, Weekdays 10:00-sunset, Weekends
from Athens and then take a local ferry. etc) by car. those that are public and free and the privately operated ones 09:00-sunset,Admission: Weekdays: €5, children under 12
where an admission fee is charged for the services. free, Weekends: €14, children 6-12 yrs: €7. Parking week-
As a general rule, free public beaches do not offer any ame- days: €3, weekends €8, Sunbeds incl. all days.
nities (except a beach bar in some cases). In the privately
9. Koufonisia 10. Gavdos operated beaches the entrance fee sometimes includes
sun-beds, umbrellas and showers and there are of course Public beaches
beach bars, restaurants and even shops to keep you oc- There are hundreds of beaches down the Attica coast and if
cupied for the whole day. you don’t feel like planning ahead, you can just board the bus
and find the appropriate bus stops by just following the crowd.
Finally, if you are really lazy, cannot be bothered to drag Or, if you drive, a good way to find a good beach is to watch for
yourself down the coast and all you want is to enjoy the hot the number of cars parked at the side of the road.
Athenian sun, many hotels have swimming pools that are The following are some of the most popular free beaches.
open to the public, for a fee of course. As a rule, the price Although there is some kind of shop near almost every one
includes the use of the swimming pool sun-beds and towels of them, remember to bring a bottle of water, towels, hats
(and often lockers and changing rooms) and you can buy and everything else you may need.
drinks and light snacks from the pool bar.
Alimos, 11 km,
Privately operated beaches: Tram, stop Zephyros/ Kalamaki / Bus 141 from Agios Dimi-
trios metro station / Bus 103 from Akadimias st €0.80
Agios Kosmas 15 km, Tram, stop 1st Agios Kosmas /
Ano Koufonisi As south as it gets: Agios Ioannis beach Ble, Alimos 12 km Tel. 210 9855169 Bus 141 from Agios Dimitrios metro station / Bus 103 from
Until about 10 years ago, hardly any tourists (foreign or Gavdos is that small dot on the map just bellow Crete Tram:stop Zephyros/Kalamaki / Bus 141 from Agios Akadimias st €0.80
Greek) visited the two islands, and their amazing beaches and it is a place worth coming to if only to experience the Dimitrios metro station / Bus 103 from Akadimias st. Daily: Vouliagmeni -Limanakia 28 km, Bus E22
were a well kept secret among the few nudist campers feeling of being on the very edge of Europe. Hundreds 08:00-20:00,Admission: Weekdays€6 (free sunbeds) Week- Agia Marina 34 km, Bus E22 , KTEL (intercity) bus to
that spent their summers there. Suddenly Koufonisia of campers arrive every summer and join the 50 locals ends €8 (sunbeds €3) Chidren under 12: half price. Sounio, €2.90
became en vogue and the tiny Ano Koufonisi (the only who mainly live from tourism and fishing. Expect basic Thalassea, Voula 20 km Tel. 210 8959632 Anavyssos 44 km, Bus E22 , KTEL (intercity) bus to
inhabited of the two) gets so packed in August that amenities, a few tavernas, a self styled night life and no Bus A1 from Faliro metro station Daily: 08:00-20:00 Admis- Sounio, €4.20
you’d be better off chosing Mykonos instead. However, ATMs to get money from, so make sure you have enough sion: Weekdays €5.5,Weekends €6.5 (sunbeds incl.) Legraina 64 km, KTEL (intercity) bus to Sounio, €5.20
the smart visitor who comes to the island off season upon arrival (not that you’re going to need much here). Astir Beach, Vouliagmeni 26 km Tel. 210 8902000 Sounio 69 km, KTEL (intercity) bus to Sounio, €5.20 / €5.70
will be rewarded with empty top class beaches and The beaches of the island are excellent and Agios Ioan- Tram, stop Glyfada and then bus 114, Daily: 08:00 -21:00 depending on the route.
lots of fresh sea food as fishing is what most locals do nis is probably the best but you have to walk quite a while Admission: Weekdays €15, children €10 Weekends € 25,
for living. There are no proper hotels on the island and across dunes and cedar trees to get there. If you are not children €15 OASA coast Express bus E22 departs Akadimias st (&
the accommodation is cheap off season. Local tourist up for camping there are some rooms available on the Yabanaki, Varkiza 27km Tel. 210 8972414 Ippokratous MPanepistimio) every 20 minutes, Tickets
boats depart daily to Kato Koufonisi, a nudist’s and free island but better book in advance if you want to visit in Bus 171 from Dafni metro station. Daily: 08:00-20:00, cost €1.20
camper’s paradise and Keros a nearby uninhabited islet. August. There is a ferry service from Palaiohora (south Admission: Weekdays €6 (sunbeds incl.) Weekends €7 KTEL buses servicing the southern coast depart Pedion
The ferry from Piraeus takes about 8 hours. Crete) but it runs daily only during the high season. (sunbeds: €4,5). Children under 6yrs free, children under 12 Areos (Alexandras & Mavromateon st, MVictoria) starting
yrs, students €4, Free Parking at 06:30 and every half hour - last bus 21:30

Athens In Your Pocket athens.inyourpocket.com athens.inyourpocket.com August - September 2010


20 Culture & Events Culture & Events 21

Louise Bourgeois/Sarah Lucas Eretria: Insights into an Ancient City Carte Blanche Woman as Muse 1900-1950

Until September 5: ‘Carte blanche’, The Art


Foundation (TAF), D5, Normanou 5, MMonasti-
raki, tel. (+30) 210 3238757, (+30) 6988391684,
www.theartfoundation.gr, An installation in progress
created by the visitors based on the ‘blank’ surrendering
of the gallery space to all those who wish to participate.
Everyone is welcome to create a work-message. Isolate
yourself in the specially constructed booth and leave your
mark on a blank paper. Draw, write, wish, ridicule, idolise,
condemn and submit your own personal statement-vote,
as many times as you like. Anonymous or not. At the end
of each day, the envelopes are opened and your personal
“work” will be displayed on the walls of the gallery -next
to and equally, to “works” created by known and unac-
knowledged ones. The participation of the audience in
the installation configures a field of exploration and play,
forming an open-ended project. The ultimate purpose
of such a happening is the recording of the present, the
Until September 12: “Sarah Lucas: Nuds/ emergence of dialogue, diversity and uniqueness. Without
Louise Bourgeois: Personages”, Cycla- discrimination, without conditions, without limits.
dic Museum of Art, I5, The Stathatos Mansion, Until August 25: “Eretria: Insights into an An-
Vasilissis Sof ias & Irodotou 1, MSyntagma, Same venue until September 5: Reflections.
Evangelismos, tel. (+30) 210 7228321 - 3, www.
cient City” National Archaeological Museum 10 artists design and implement their installations in the
Patision (28th October) 44, MVictoria, tel. 210 rooms Taf in an attempt to lead the viewer into a new
cycladic.gr.
8217724, fax 210 8213573 experiential visual experienceQOpen 13:00 - 24:00,
The Cycladic Museum of Art’s double bill showing Louise Free admission.
A massive group effort which includes cooperation from the
Bourgeois and Sarah Lucas alongside the sculptures of
Museums of Eretria, Chalkis, Olympia, Samos, as well as the
Cycladic Art, is the perfect move in an ongoing project
Numismatic Museum, Benaki Museum, Musee Capitolini and
to unite contemporary culture with the prehistoric with
the Montemarti Collection. An initiative of the Swiss School
the setting of Athens itself, a city inseparable from its
of Archaeology, the exhibition is realised with funds from the
classical and Byzantine past. The exhibition places the
school, the only permanent archaeological mission outside
tradition of contemporary sculpture within the context
Switzerland which has been excavating and studying the September 3 - November 21: Woman as Muse,
of figurative art history.
ruins of ancient Eretria since its foundation in 1964. 1900-1950C5, Herakleidon Experience in Visual
One of the trailblazers of Young British Art, Sarah Arts, Iraklidon 16, MThissio, tel. 210 3461981,
Epic in scale as well as in content, the show narrates the
Lucas is coming to Athens with a selection taken from www.herakleidon-art.gr.
history of a city that lies under modern day Evia, from its
the artist’s latest series of work, Nuds. The exhibition A The female form has been an inspiration to artists of
ancient origins to Late Antiquity, some 437 artefacts have
marks an evolution in the artist’s career. More classi- all ages and ethnic groups, dating back to antiquity. The
been divided into four sections. With evidence of Eretria
cally sculptural than any of Lucas’s previous sculptures, exhibition “Woman as Muse, 1900-1950” will showcase
being the ancestor of the modern Roman alphabet used
the delicate handling of what are essentially stockings works on paper by world renowned artists of modernism,
today, as well as remains that suggest Eretria being a vital
stuffed with wadding creates anthropomorphic sugges- depicting their varied interpretations of the female form
link in the development of the Greek alphabet, Robin Lane
tions of limbs and torsos entangled within themselves. and reflecting the prevailing artistic movements of their
Fox, renowned historian of the ancient world notes; “I have
The result is a timely depiction of the body in the grand time. Woman is portrayed as mother, muse, lover, friend
never seen a show that better illustrates so many sides of
old tradition of the nude body in art. Presented on or confidante. She is alternately nurturing, beguiling, as-
Greek culture across such a time span. It is a presentational
rough plinths, the Cycladic Museum’s choice is both sertive or conspiratorial.
triumph.”The exhibition leads the viewer through a history of
unexpected yet completely natural. This exhibition will include works from the collection of
habitation, from scarce Mycenaean remains dating to the
Held in parallel with Sarah Lucas’s exhibition, Louise U2 September 3, Olympic Stadium the Herakleidon Museum as well as the Greek National
beginning of the 3rd millennium B.C., though it is the archaeo-
Bourgeois is yet another apt choice made by the Cycla- Gallery and the George Economou Collection.
logical finds from the Geometric period of the 8th Century
dic Museum. With works from the Personages series, The works include drawings and prints created by master
made in 1947-53, Bourgeois is the perfect mid-point
B.C. that really demonstrate the illustrious beginnings of a Concerts artists such as:
flourishing civilisation that played an active role in establish-
- modernist works result in totem-like geometric sug-
ing commercial relations with the East and participated in September Pablo Picasso, Henri Matisse, Gustav Klimt, Egon Schiele,
gestions of man and woman act as a bridge between Fri 3: U2, Olympic Stadium, www.tickethouse.gr €33- Salvador Dali, Aristide Maillol, Théophile Steinlen, Henri
the first phase of Greek colonisation in Northern Greece,
prehistoric sculpture to the mid 20th Century, to now. 330 de Toulouse-Lautrec, M.C. Escher Dame Laura Knight,
South Italy and Sicily. Through the investigation into colonies
Essentially, what you get is a timeline that looks at the Thu 6: Porcupine Tree, Technopolis, www.tickethouse. G.Economidis, K.Gramatopoulos, etc...
and commerce, the exhibition presents an image of culture,
human body throughout the ages. At the same time, gr €45
through artefacts that reflect on daily life, from household
we are also getting a peek at the form from a woman’s QOpen 13:00 - 21:00, Sun 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon.
objects to items of religious and political importance. Sat 11: Placebo, Terravibe Park, www.tickethouse.
perspective. Admission fee: €6, Concessions:€4, Under 12: Free
The exhibition also features drawings and watercolours that gr €40
With a developing programme that aims to merge con-
depict the ancient landscapes that set the scene, while Fri 17: Prodigy, Athinon Arena (Peiraios st 166), www.
temporary art with classic, the juxtaposition of Cycladic
models that recreate some of Eretria’s most important ticketarena.gr €48
sculpture and with Sarah Lucas and Louise Bourgeois’s
buildings. Video projections explore the ancient ruins through Sun 19: Tindersticks, Lycabet tus Th eatre, w w w.
pieces casts the viewer as a critical link between past
their co-existence with the modern city, and chart different
and present. Genius.
phases of excavation. This is one exhibition in which the
ticketpro.gr €40 Ticket reservations:
QOpen 10:00 - 17:00, Thu 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 11:00 Sat 25: Ozzy Osbourne, Terravibe Park, www.ticket-
- 17:00. Closed Tue. Admission fee: €7, concessions:
past truly comes alive. house.gr €45 www.tickethouse.gr / www.ticketnet.gr
€2.5-3.5, Mondays: €3.5. Under 18: Free
QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Mon 13:30-20:00 Admission fee Mon 27: Goran Bregovic, Odeon of Herodes Atticus, www.ticketpro.gr / www.i-ticket.gr
€7, concessions €3.
www.ticketshop.gr €30-70

Athens In Your Pocket athens.inyourpocket.com athens.inyourpocket.com August - September 2010


22 Where to stay Where to stay 23

The suite occupies the hotel’s entire ninth floor and boasts Grand Resort Lagonissi 40th km Athens-Sounion
Hotel Listings Policy of a terrace with a private swimming pool, a jacuzzi and a Av, tel. (+30) 22910 7600, fax (+30) 22910 24534,
wonderful Parthenon view which is included in many of those grandresort@grandresort, www.lagonissiresort.gr. This
Athens offers its visitors a comprehensive range of ac- international lists compiled for the rich and privileged of this resort is sprawled across a peninsula jutting into the sea,
commodation, as you‘d expect from a city of its size. world. Tudor Hall, the 7th floor French restaurant, remains in the calm area of Lagonissi, about one hour from the city
The Olympic Games of 2004 gave its hotel industry a a prominent member of the Athenian dining elite. Q 102 centre. Better to opt for a villa or bungalow, but be warned:
radical overhaul, many new hotels were built and most rooms, Singles/Doubles: €180-400, Suites: €500-10,000. prices are sky high, especially for the more exclusive sea
existing ones underwent complete renovation. PTJHARUFGBKDCW hhhhh view villas (with private swimming pool and fitness centre, no
Although accommodation is ample, Athens‘ hotels are less). There is a large selection of restaurants, bars, sports
not cheap and hoteliers seem to prefer lower occupancy Club Hotel Casino Loutraki Poseidonos 48, Loutraki, and water sports on offer, plus an elegant spa with an array
rates at higher prices. tel. (+30) 27440 60300, fax (+30) 27440 60306, Res- of enticing treatments. It provides a fully-equipped business
In Your Pocket will not stop crying out that Athens is in ervations@clubhotelloutraki.gr, www.clubhotelloutraki. centre, as well as translation and secretarial services. Why
desperate need of reasonably priced accommodation gr. An ultra luxurious resort less than an hour away from not prepare for that meeting while basking under the sun on
at all levels and our list of recommendations is primarily Athens. Everything you could desire for a dream stay, away its sandy private beach? Or, then again, why not just lounge
based on the premise of the fairness of prices charged from the hustle and bustle of the city centre: Designer fur- by the pool or enjoy the uninterrupted sea views from your
for the services being offered. niture, a private beach, large swimming pools and gardens, luxurious villa, and forget about all meetings whatsoever?
an excellent invigorating Wellness Centre and, last but not As long as you can afford to stay here, that is. Q 321
least: the largest casino in Greece worth a visit even if you rooms. Singles/Doubles: €500-800, Suites: €1000-€5000.
stay in the city. There are regular shuttle bus connections PTHARUFLBKDCW hhhhh
Cream of the Crop from the centre of Athens. With just €15 you’ll get transport,
entrance fee, free drinks and lunch as well as the opportunity
Astir Palace Apollonos 40, Vouliagmeni, tel. (+30) 210 to spend a few hours of fun and style in a real world class Over €180
8902000, fax (+30) 210 8962582, reservation@astir. casino. Even if you are not the gambling type, the experience Electra Palace F6, Nikodimou 18-20, Plaka, MSyntag-
gr, www.astir-palace.com. Located in the coastal suburb is worth a visit and you still stand a chance of winning one of ma, tel. (+30) 210 3370000, fax (+30) 210 3241875,
of Vouliagmeni, less than an hour from the city centre, Astir the free regular instant cash lottery draws (€1000 & €2000) salesepath@electrahotels.gr, www.electra-hotels.com.
Palace is for those who wish to spend their holidays in an Transport info & reservations: 210 5234188 & 210 5234144 All time classic luxury in the heart of Plaka. You’ll certainly
elegant and exclusive environment, being pampered by the Q 255 rooms, Singles: €200-350, Doubles: €245-370. feel you’re worth a bob or two once you pass the front door.
sea. This luxurious resort, sheltered among shady pine-tree POTHARUFLEBKDCW hhhhh No hi-tech extravagances in the standard rooms and small
groves, with its rock-hewn landscape, idyllic sea views and bathrooms are marked down as a negative, but you can
private beaches, offers soothing serenity for those wanting Grande Bretagne G5, Syntagma Square, MSyntagma, always book a suite with living room, LCD TV and balcony
to escape the madding crowd. In general, its amenities are tel. (+30) 210 333000/(+30) 210 3228034, info@ with a startling view of Plaka. The spectacular indoor pool
good, including a spa, fitness centre, hair and beauty salon, grandebretagne.gr, www.grandebretagne.gr. This his- and fitness centre will certainly make up for potential bad
mini soccer terrains, tennis courts and water sports, as well toric hotel occupies probably the most expensive piece of weather and keep you in shape. Q 154 rooms. Singles:
as a good choice of restaurants and bars. And for those VIPs commercial property in the country. Pure luxury, grandeur and €150-200,Doubles: €160-250, Superior rooms: €295-450.
among you, we have to mention that there’s a helipad and splendour, consistently place GB in every kind of ‘top hotels PTJHAFLGBKDXCW hhhhh
private helicopter service, no less, as well as a limousine of the world’ list. Most impressive though, is the list of its Saint George Lycabettus I4, Kleomenous 2, tel.
transfer service. Couples will love its romantic sunsets and famous guests, more or less all the important people who Ledra Marriott Syngrou 115, tel. (+30) 210 930 00 00, (+30) 210 7290711-19, info@sglycabettus.gr, www.
lovely rejuvenating surroundings while, with its detached have visited Athens since the hotel was built back in 1874: fax (+30) 210 935 86 03, athensmarriott.com. 50 Cent sglycabettus.gr. Situated on the slopes of Lycabettus hill,
bungalows, it also makes a good choice for those bringing Winston Churchill, Maria Callas, Aristotle Onassis and...Naomi and rock star Tina Turner stayed in the presidential suite of this is probably the only hotel with such a breathtaking view
their family entourage. Q 199 rooms. Singles: €150-200, Campbell, as well as countless kings, queens and heads of this famous luxury hotel. The colonial style furniture adds a of the city and coast. The rooms are pretty small but certainly
Doubles: €200-300, Suites: €700-1000. PTHARU� state have in the past slipped between its crisp sheets. certain character to the rooms, which are spacious with huge appreciated by those who enjoy compact spaces. In terms
FLKDCW hhhhh The hotel has housed governments and occupying forces single beds. City breakers and businessmen alike love Ledra of decoration, each floor has its own theme. To that extent,
during turbulent times and from its balconies, the foreign Marriott. The executive lounge gives you the impression Byzantine paintings are to be found on the entire 4th floor.
Athens Hilton K5, Vas. Sofias 46, MEvangelismos, tel. press has watched and reported on every important event you’re staying in a Tokyo skyscraper hotel and you can’t help “Toni’s bar” covers all major sports events and if that is not
(+30) 210 7281000, fax (+30) 210 7281111, reserva- of modern Greek history. Needless to describe its amenities, but feel that Bill Murray and Scarlett Johansson will walk in quite your style, opt for classy bar-restaurant “Frame”. If you
tions.athens@hiltoncom, www.hiltonathens.gr. Need we if you can afford the bill you can find out for yourself. What we any minute to join you for a nightcap. The hotel’s Polynesian can spare the extra cash, book an evening in the “Princess
mention that panache and elegance are synonymous with the need to point out is its Spa, which is definitely worth one of restaurant, Kona Kai, has ranked among the capital’s top Marie Christine” suite. The more expensive rate is a small
word Hilton? Built in 1963, it wouldn’t be an overstatement your Athens days, and will only set you back a few hundred dining spots for the last quarter of a century. Q 314 rooms. price to pay to be treated like royalty. Q 154 rooms. Singles/
to say that governments have risen and fallen in this build- euros… Q 321 rooms. Singles/Doubles: €250-400, Suites: Singles/Doubles: €149-269, Junior suites: from €349, Suites: Doubles: €150-200, Deluxe Acropolis view: €240-500.
ing. Recently, it underwent a total refurbishment adopting a €500-€5000. PTJHAR6UFGBKDXCW from €850. PTJHARUFLEGBKDCW PTJHARUFLBKDW hhhhh
minimal style without abandoning its true Hilton character. hhhhh hhhhh
Heads of state and top celebrities love the presidential suite Semiramis Charilaou Trikoupi 48, Kifisia, tel. (+30) 210
overlooking the city. Any type of conference or meeting can O&B Boutique C4, Leokoriou 7, Psirri, MThissio, tel. 6284400, fax (+30) 210 6284449, info@semiramisa-
be held here, hosting from 10 to 1200 people. An immense
fitness centre, a beauty salon, barber’s shop, cigar store, Symbol key (+30) 210 3312950, fax (+30) 210 3312942, reserve@
oandbhotel.com, www.oandbhotel.com. One of the city’s
thens.com, www.semiramisathens.com. If you are willing
to exchange central location for a stay in a truly exceptional
newsagent and jewelry store all at your service. And if you favourite small hotels has just doubled in size, remaining how- hotel and pop design is your cup of tea, then look no further
feel you’re carrying the weight of the world on your shoulders, P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted ever small enough for the personalised service and top hospi- than Semiramis. Located in the leafy and posh northern
you can wind down in the silent room, a place of complete tality its owners take pride in offering their guests. The subtle suburb of Kifisia 15 km from the centre of the city, owned by
relaxation. Q 524 rooms. Singles: €160-250, Doubles: E Live music S Take away luxury, minimal decoration and calm atmosphere O&B has an art collector and designed by Karim Rashid no less, this
€180-400. PTJHAR6UFLBKDCW been known for, have been carefully preserved and the guests hotel is a temple of modern living. An outright riot of colours
hhhhh T Child friendly U Facilities for the disabled now have a large choice of accommodation ranging from a and shapes complemented by top class facilities will tempt
standard double up to the ‘Acropolis Grand Suite’. Internet is you to spend your entire holiday inside the hotel! Q 51 rooms.
Classical King George Palace G5, Vasileos Georgiou G Non-smoking areas L Guarded parking of course free-of-charge. Q 22 rooms, Doubles: €190-210, Singles / Doubles: €180-300, Bungallows / Suite: €350-600.
3, Syntagma Sq, MSyntagma, tel. (+30) 210 3222210/ Suites: €300-550. PTJALGKW hhhh PTHARFLBKDCW hhhhh
(+30) reserv.210 3443590, fax (+30) 210 3250504, O Casino M Nearest station
kgpalace@classicalhotels.com, www.classicalhotels.
com. A member of ‘The Leading Hotels of the World’ and R Internet 6 Animal friendly
one of the distinguished Syntagma Sq trio. If you have a few Post your own hotel review at:
thousand euros to spare, go for the 350 sqm Royal Penthouse D Sauna C Swimming pool athens.inyourpocket.com
Suite and impress your companion beyond any expectation.

Athens In Your Pocket athens.inyourpocket.com athens.inyourpocket.com August - September 2010


24 Where to stay Where to stay 25

Herodion D7, Rovertou Gali 4, MAcropolis, tel. (+30)


€100-180 210 9236832-6, fax (+30) 210 9211650, herodion@
Achilleas F5, Lekka 21, MSyntagma, tel. (+30) 210 herodion.gr, www.herodion.com. One of the best roof
3233197/(+30) 210 3216777, fax (+30) 210 3228531, gardens in Athens. Wooden floors, jasmine and olive trees
achilleas@tourhotel.gr, www.achilleashotel.gr. Well hid- and two jacuzzis looking towards the Acropolis. You can
den in the narrow streets of the commercial centre of Athens, almost reach out and touch the Parthenon. Americans and
this hotel is super family-friendly as most of its rooms are so Australians love it here and and now the New Acropolis Mu-
large that can easily accommodate up to four people. Some seum has opened just around the corner, this hotel looks set
others exchange the extra space for a balcony. The reception to become a definite meeting-point for Greeks and visitors
area is tastefully decorated and the central location is a big alike Q 90 rooms, Singles: € 90-120, Doubles: €100-150,
plus. Q 34 rooms. Doubles: €100-130, Triples: €140-155, Triples: €160-230. PTJHAIGBKW hhhh
Quads: €160-175. PTJAW hhh
Magna Grecia E5, Mitropoleos 54, MSyntagma,
Ava F7, Lysikratous 9-11, MAcropolis, tel. (+30) 210 Monastiraki, tel. (+30) 210 3240314-5, fax (+30)
3259000, fax (+30) 210 3259001, info@avahotel.gr, 210 3240317, info@magnagreciahotel.com, www.
www.avahotel.gr. Ava hotel has just been renovated and magnagreciahotel.com. For an 111-year old mansion, this
the impressive result puts it among the top four star hotels hotel looks in pretty good shape. A princess used to live
in the capital. It offers suites of different sizes that can ac- here, but its new residents are usually businessmen and
commodate a whole family. Probably the only hotel in Athens access, as many beverages as you can drink and hydro- leisure travelers. It’s situated right in the heart of Athens’
offering a unique combination of luxurious accommodation massage in every room are some of the details that make main commercial street and yet, thanks to its baroque influ-
and facilities to prepare your own meals, as all suites have the difference. Try out the fitness centre, with a sauna and a ences and touches of artistic ingenuity, it makes you feel
their own fully equiped kitchenette. This will keep your holiday hamam. A non-smoking wing is also available. An excellent, you’ve suddenly immersed yourself in a totally original world.
budget low and will give you the oportunity to practice your value for money, highly recommended hotel. Q 38 rooms. If you like the inviting entrance and drawings on the walls,
Greek cooking skills with fresh stuff bought from the nearby Standard: €120-170, Acropolis view: €150-190, Suites: €200- wait until you eat your breakfast on the 3rd floor, in what
Plaka greengrocers. Internet is free of charge, there are 350. PTJHAFLGKDW hhhhh can only be described as a belle époque atmosphere. Try to
blue ray dvd players and ambi light tv sets in every room, concentrate more on finishing your coffee and less on that
and the front balconies face both the Acropolis rock and Esperia Palace (Best Western) Stadiou 22, stunning Acropolis view. Q 10 rooms. Singles: €80-100,
Hadrian’s Gate. Q 15 rooms, Doubles: €130-160, Triples: MPanepistimio, tel. (+30) 210 3238001, fax (+30) 210 Doubles: €100-120. PTJAGBXW hhhh
€140-170, 4persons: €230-270, 5persons: €250-280. 3238100, info@esperiahotel.com.gr, www.esperiahotel.
PTJAUGBW hhhh com.gr. A central city hotel with an aristocratic feel. The good Melia Athens F2, Chalkokondili 14, MOmonia, tel.
refurbishment it was given recently didn’t change its style (+30) 210 3320100, fax (+30) 210 3320200, melia-
Classical BabyGrand Hotel Athinas 65 & Lykourgou, and character. All the fittings in the rooms are numbered and athens@solmelia.com, www.melia-athens.com. A luxury
MOmonia, tel. (+30) 210 3743590, fax (+30) 210 designed by Greek rustic furnisher Saridis. Classic luxuries in hotel nearest the National Archaeological Museum. This
3250920, bg@classicalhotels.com, www.classical- junior and superior suites are accompanied by a distant but modern hotel is housed in one of the city’s old buildings,
hotels.com. Dreamy hotel situated next to the Town Hall, nonetheless enticing Acropolis view. Well-sized conference which somehow survived its unattractive replacements of
overlooking Kotzia square. Two mini coopers, transformed rooms in case you‘re in town on business. Sip your Greek cof- the late 60s. The fitness centre, hamam and sauna are free
into reception desks and the graffiti in the rooms will most fee in café ‘L’angolo’, a typical old style upper class Athenian of charge and the rooms are elegant and attractive. Safety
definitely bring out the child in you. You can choose between cafeteria and try out the delicious and generous buffet at freaks have finally found their haven, as all rooms have a
the Spiderman and the Smurf room. And if that doesn’t its excellent restaurant ‘Athineos’. Q 185 rooms. Singles: safety door that isolates the bedrooms in case of fire. Q
guarantee a good night’s sleep, go for the nature room with €100-140, Doubles: €120-200, Triples: €150-250, Superior/ 126 rooms, 10 suites. Singles/Doubles: €90-140, Suites:
drawings of trees and rivers and a Zen atmosphere to take Suites: €185-300. PTJHARKW hhhh €220. P T J H A R U I F G B K D X C W
your stress away. The entire 78-room establishment is hhhhh
outfitted with all the necessary gadgets (even condoms and Golden Age K5, Michalakopoulou 57, MMegaro Mousi-
CD players). You can always get a good massage and facial kis, tel. (+30) 210 7240861-9, fax (+30) 210 7213965, Periscope I4, Haritos 22, Kolonaki, MSyntagma, tel.
to smarten yourself up before a posh dinner in the stylish goldenage@ath.forthnet.gr, www.goldenage.gr. It is (+30) 210 7297200, fax (+30) 210 7297206, info@
and ultra modern Meat Me taverna. Q 78 rooms, Singles/ worth going for one of its two executive suites: Glass roofs periscope.gr, www.periscope.gr. An ultra stylish hi-tech
Doubles: €100-250, Suites: €230-550. PTJHAR� and large verandas, minimal decoration and the impressive small hotel in the smart neighbourhood of Kolonaki. Rooms
UFKDW hhhh night city view through its large windows, will make you feel are grey and minimally decorated with coloured details, the
as if you spent a lot more on your accommodation. The ceilings are covered with photographs of Athens and there
Electra F5, Ermou 5, MSyntagma, tel. (+30) 210 standard rooms offer comfortable accommodation too and is a penthouse suite with a private jacuzzi and panoramic
3378000, fax (+30) 210 3220310, saleselath@ balconies completely separated from each other, with a high views of the city. Views that can be enjoyed 24 hours even
electrahotels.gr,, www.electra-hotels.com. This 4-star degree of privacy. Overall, a good, modern and reasonably from the lounge downstairs on the flat screens connected
establishment is the ideal choice for those looking to priced business hotel that will do fine for your holiday too. Q to the rooftop periscope. Wi-Fi Internet is free. Q 22
spend their holidays shopping. Situated on Ermou street, 122 rooms. Singles/Doubles : €90-120. PTJHAR� rooms, Singles: €150-170, Doubles: €165-190. PT�
the country’s top commercial thoroughfare, this hotel has 6UKW hhhh JARFW hhhh
always been regarded as a meeting point for Athenians. In
this 9-storey building you’ll be offered basic luxury and a good Hera E8, Falirou 9, MAcropolis/(+30) 210 9236682, Royal Olympic F8, Athanasiou Diakou 28-34, MA-
vantage point from which to gaze down at passing crowds. fax (+30) 210 9238269,, info@herahotel.gr, www. cropolis, tel. (+30)210 9288400, info@royalolympic.
If you have some extra euros to spare, ask for a suite with a herahotel.gr. If Greek god Zeus’s companion were a hotel, com, www.royalolympic.com. A large central five star
French style Rococo balcony with a view of Lycabettus Hill. she’d probably be as attractive as this small boutique hotel. hotel located very close to most top Athenian sights. The
Q 106 rooms. Singles: €110-200, Doubles: €120-250. The 38-room establishment is located in a typical early 20th Acropolis museum and Plaka are only a few steps away
PTJHAFLKW hhhh century Athenian building, right across from the New Acropolis and the front rooms face directly the Temple of Zeus. The
Museum. A lovely roof garden and restaurant is an excellent facade stands out as it combines a modern glass surface
Eridanus C4, Pireaus 78, tel. (+30) 210 5205360, alternative to going out if you feel a little tired one evening with ancient architecture elements and the facilities on
fax (+30) 210 5200550, eridanus@eridanus.gr, www. and breakfast will brighten up your day, thanks to a glass roof offer are excellent and include a swimming pool, a library, a
eridanus.gr. One of the top small hotels in the city, in the hot in the breakfast room. Visitors are mainly holidaymakers and gym and Ioannis, the brand new rooftop restaurant set to
nightspot zone of Gazi. It is named after an ancient waterway businessmen looking for an elegant and well-placed hotel. Q impress the Athenian gourmet lovers this summer . Q 230
of Athens, and is singled out for its unique indoor design and 38 rooms, Singles: €100-130, Doubles: €110-170, Suites: rooms. Singles / Doubles: €125 - 200. PTJHAR�
modern decoration. Hermes bathroom sets, free Internet €200-250. PTJHAULGBKCW hhhh UIFLBKCW hhhhh

Athens In Your Pocket athens.inyourpocket.com athens.inyourpocket.com August - September 2010


26 Where to stay
The Athenian Callirhoe F8, Kallirois 32 & Petmeza, Arethusa F5, Mitropoleos 6, MSyntagma, tel. (+30)
MSyngrou-Fix, tel. (+30) 210 9215353,, hotel@tac.gr, 210 3229431, fax (+30) 210 3229439, arethusa@
www.tac.gr. Ideal hotel both for business and leisure visitors. traveling.gr, www.arethusahotel.gr. Named after an
Even fussy customers will be satisfied with the wide range of Athenian nymph, this centrally located hotel is a good
plush comforts. To name a few of these, free Internet, free fit- choice if location is important to you. It is spotlessly clean
ness centre and generous upgrades. Some of the bathrooms, and ideal for mid-rangers who care more about outdoor
especially in executive rooms, are more than spacious. A fine activities and want decent accommodation for the right
meeting room, the roof-garden bar-restaurant and the indul- price. Try the café on the mezzanine, there’s something
gent Café Degli Artisti for after-work or sightseeing laidback Parisian about it. Q 87 rooms, Singles: €60-80, Doubles:
entertainment, stand out as this hotel’s strong points. Q €75-95. PTJAGK hhh
84 rooms. Singles: €100-150, Doubles; € 100-180, Suites: €
200-250. PTJARFLKDW hhhh Athens Lotus C1, Hiou 9, Metaxourgeio, MMetax-
ourgeio, tel. (+30) 210 5249050, info@athenslotus.
The Athens Gate F7, Syngrou 10, MAcropolis, tel. gr, www.athenslotushotel.gr. Housed in a recently
(+30) 210 9238302, fax (+30) 210 9237493, reser- renovated neo-classical building, Athens Lotus is a great
vations@athensgate.gr, www.athensgate.gr. Located mid-size hotel with a character and a feel of old Athens,
opposite Hadrian’s Gate, this classy beauty is a good choice conveniently located two minutes walk from the nearby
if you want to spend a couple of days in style. Drink one of the metro station. The rooms and communal areas are taste-
cheapest and best cappuccinos in the capital while trying to fully decorated and spacious, the staff very professional
imagine what Athens used to look like from the eighth floor. All and internet access is free. Family rooms available. Q
rooms are non-smoking and 14 have a see-through (from the 31 rooms. Singles/Doubles: €70-90. PTJARLW
bed) shower in case you can’t get enough of your companion. hhhh
Time also equals information, a fact of which the owners here
are no doubt aware, as you can access the Internet even while Attalos E4, Athinas 29, tel. (+30) 210 3212801,
in the bathroom. Q 99 rooms. Singles: €95-205, Doubles: fax (+30) 210 3243124, info@attaloshotel.com,
€100-225, Suites: €270-340. PTJHA6ILBKW www.attaloshotel.com. Basic accommodation in a well
hhhh situated building. It has a seventies feel and the staff are
polite and helpful. The attraction in this establishment is
Titania F3, Panepistimiou 52, MPanepistimio, Omo- its roof garden, with a great Acropolis view where we guar-
nia, tel. (+30) 210 3326000, fax (+30) 210 3300700, antee you’ll spend many relaxing hours, and its location
titania@titania.gr, www.titania.gr. Large central hotel, on leafy and bustling Athinas Street bordering Psirri and
with a spacious reception area dominated by marble, gold the historic centre, just two minutes walk from the metro.
and a few ancient replicas. The rooms are comfortable, Q 80 rooms, Singles: €50-70, Doubles: €60-80, Triples:
decorated for mainstream tastes and provide all standard €80-100. PTJAGBW hh
amenities. Olive Garden, the rooftop restaurant, offers an
almost 360 degrees view of the Athenian skyline and live jazz Classical 2, Fashion House Hotel E2, Pireos
to pleasantly accompany your Mediterranean dinner. Q 385 2, MOmonia, tel. (+30) 210 5235230/(+30) 210
rooms. Singles: €90-120, Doubles : €100-140, Suites: €400. 3743590, reservations@classicalhotels.com, www.
PTJHAR6UBKW hhhh classicalhotels.com. Omonia will never be the same
again after this iconic new entry opened its doors last
Under €100 year. In a bid to transform the square, Classical Hotels have
turned a former boring hotel into a groovy fashion temple,
Acropolis Museum Hotel E8, Syngrou 48, MSyngrou- following the steps of sister Baby Grand Hotel. The facade
Fix, tel. (+30) 210 9249050 - 1, info@acropolismuseum- is covered with colourful fashion photos, the rooms are
hotel.com, www.acropolismuseumhotel.com. This 1930s unique and each designed by a different Greek designer
building was once a clinic. These days, this modern renovated and a Chanel bicycle decorates the minimal reception area.
establishment is appreciated most by those who prefer a cozy
family atmosphere to impersonal service. The owner’s motto
What’s more: all this style overload comes at reasonable
(for Athens) prices. Q 115 rooms. Singles/Doubles: €80- IOANNIS
is “feel at ease and come and go as you like, because this will 100. PTJAR6GKW hhhh
be your home for the next couple of days”. A philosophy also
applied to its sister hotel, Magna Grecia. Rooms designed to Niki F6, Nikis 27, MSyntagma, tel. (+30) 210
Our new Roof Garden Restaurant-Bar
suit all kinds of tastes, with high ceilings and a belle époque 3220913, fax (+30) 210 3220886, info@nikihotel. is at your disposal all year round!
aura. The wall colors vary depending on the floor you‘re on. gr, www.nikihotel.gr. An elegant colourful and taste-
Couples and businessmen love it here and with free Internet fully decorated small budget hotel conveniently located Fo r r e s e r v a t i o n s e i t h e r f o r L u n c h o r D i n n e r p l e a s e c a l l : 2 10 9 2 8 8 4 0 0
access and a warm welcoming ambiance, no doubt, so will you. between Syntagma Sq and Plaka. Ideal therefore for those
Q 22 rooms. Singles: € 75-90, Doubles: € 90-110, Family: € who prefer walking to public transport. Q 22 rooms,
200. PTJARILGW hhhh 1 sui te. Singles/Doubles: €70-100, Sui te:€110-130.
PTJAR hhh
Acropolis Select E8, Fallirou 37-39, Makrigianni, tel.
(+30) 210 9211611, select3@otenet.gr, www.acropo- Omiros F5, Apollonos 15, Plaka, MSyntagma, tel.
liselect.gr. This is a decent three star hotel housed in a typical (+30) 210 3235486-7, fax (+30) 210 3228059, omiro-
seventies building, more impressive once you walk in. Tasteful shotel@hol.gr, www.omiroshotel.gr. A very good choice
and low profile decoration as well as helpful and professional if you want to stay cenrtally and not spend a fortune. Just
staff guarantee a pleasant stay for those not looking for swim- off the centre of action, Syntagma Sq and Ermou St, this
ming pools and spa services but good value for money accom- medium sized hotel comes complete with all the facilities
modation instead. Some rooms boast large verandas, an extra you’re going to need for a pleasant stay, free WiFi included.
definitely worth asking for. The location is very convenient too, The rooms are comfortable with wooden floors and some
just two minutes from the metro and within walking distance of them have an Acropolis view at no extra charge. Q 40
to the Acropolis and Plaka. Q 72 rooms. Singles/Doubles: rooms. Doubles/Triples: €70-90. PTJAW hhh
€60-100. PTJHALKW hhh
www.royalolympic.com
Athens In Your Pocket athens.inyourpocket.com
28 Where to stay Restaurants 29

Philippos E8, Mitseon 3, MAcropolis, tel. (+30) Hostels Restaurant Listings Policy
210 9223611-4, fax (+30) 210 9223615, philippos@ Athens Backpackers F7, Makri 12, MAcropolis, tel.
herodion.gr, www.philipposhotel.gr. A sister hotel of (+30) 210 9224044, info@backpackers.gr, www.back-
Herodion, this one caters for more budget conscious travelers. packers.gr. With quotes such as “this is not a prison cell, it’s Many Athenian restaurants sell a number of things like
Acceptable, excellently located accommodation, on a quiet a host-cell”, “pay in advance and if you’re not happy you can ob- décor, location, view, exclusivity and attitude, forgetting
street very close to the Acropolis and Plaka. Rooms are basic, tain a refund”, this hostel is a never-to-be-forgotten experience. to pay adequate attention to their primary business:
but if you are not extremely fussy and you’re not planning to 18-30 curious Americans adore this fully non-smoking, English food.
spend all your time in the hotel (why should you?), this is very speaking joint, but if you hang out here long enough you’ll get Some others concentrate on food but make their custom-
good value for your money accommodation. Q 50 rooms. to meet people from all around the world. You can always chill ers pay through the nose for the privilege.
Singles:/Doubles €80-100. PTJARGW hhh out for free on the settees if you arrive in the middle of the night In Your Pocket staff untertake the strenuous task of
and your booking is for the next morning. A heavy duty oven selecting, among hundreds of establishments, those
Budget with all necessary food preparation accessories awaits the
cooking types. If it’s luxury you’re after, look elsewhere. What
that truly respect the custom of their visitors and take
their business seriously, whether they are humble cheap
Cecil E4, Athinas 39, MMonastiraki, tel. (+30) 210 you’ll get here is a clean room for a good night’s sleep and great souvlaki joints or sophisticated expensive Michelin-
3217079,, fax (+30) 210 3219606, info@cecil.gr, opportunities to meet free style travelers like yourself. Look starred restaurants.
www.cecil.gr. This pretty neoclassical building was once out on the notice board for funny announcements like, “Fabian, Your experiences are always appreciated. Please post
a rather high-class establishment, thanks to its French style call your mother” and prepare for cool parties on the ground your own review on our website or email us at: athens@
rooms and its belle époque feel. That’s probably why many floor. Test your ‘surviving-on-a-tight-budget’ skills by trying out inyourpocket.com
Greek film scenes set in France are shot here instead of on Ed’s “3 days in Athens for 30 euros” plan. Q Dorms: €18-25,
site: it’s a lot cheaper! You are guaranteed to experience Doubles: €40-50. PJARGW
gangster movie flashbacks thanks to a historic early 20th
century elevator (still operational). All in all, this is definitely a American
AthenStyle D5, Agias Theklas 10, Psirri, MMonastiraki,
distinctive choice. Q 40 rooms. Singles: €50-80, Doubles: Thissio, tel. (+30) 210 3225010, info@athenstyle.com, Hard Rock Café F6, Filellinon 18, MSyntagma, tel.
€70-100. PTJAGW hhh www.athenstyle.com. If you are the type who prefers to (+30) 210 3252758, www.hardrock.com/athens.
stay close to nightlife this new hostel is a perfect choice as There are no surprises with Hard Rocks, you know that.
Metropolis F5, Mitropoleos 46, MSyntagma, tel. it is located right in Psirri. An old recently converted building It’s all guitars and jackets and motorbikes hanging from the
(+30) 210 3217871, fax (+30) 210 3217469, info@ with four and six bed dorms sharing a bathroom each and, walls, burgers, margueritas and rock n’roll! One thing that
hotelmetropolis.gr, www.hotelmetropolis.gr. Anyone if you prefer more privacy (at a higher price) you can opt for certainly distinguishes this one, is the very Athenian three-
interested in some good old hanky panky? This is the place for one of the double rooms or even the studio flats. There is a storey refurbished neoclassical building, a few steps from the
you. This is also a good choice for backpackers and travelers bar, free internet and a rooftop bar with a close up view of historic Plaka district. Go ahead, buy this Athens T-shirt that
who prefer to spend their money on anything other than a the Acropolis and Plaka. Q Dorms: €25, Doubles, studios: is missing from your collection and enjoy a true Hard Rock
hotel. The rooms are less than basic but then again, you will € 60-150. PJAB evening. QOpen 10:00 - 01:00. PJA
get to use the smallest bathroom ever. So why stay in this
22-room lodge? Because you’ll get the feel of what life is like in Fivos E4, Athinas 23, MMonastiraki, tel. (+30) 210 Jackson Hall H5, Milioni 4, Kolonaki, tel. (+30) 210
an original Bauhaus structure. Q 22 rooms. Singles: €40-70, 3226657, www.hotelfivos.gr. Fivos is another non-smoking 3616098, info@jacksonhall.gr, www.jacksonhall.gr.
Doubles: € 40-80, Triples: €60-100. PJR6 hh establishment in this tobacco-fanatic capital. It isn’t fancy and This is a classic hotspot for chic Athenians of all ages, the
luxurious but it’s clean, and is favoured by young city travelers place to see and to be seen in classy upmarket Kolonaki.
Pan F5, Mitropoleos 11,, MSyntagma, tel. (+30) 210 eager to meet new friends. According to the Scottish reception- Serves tasty cocktails and an interesting assortment of
3237816, fax (+30) 210 3237819, reservations@pan- ist, who looks like he’s just walked off the set of a gangster film, American-style food, though a tad on the expensive side (it
hotel.gr, www.panhotel.gr. Named after ancient god Pan, “this is a place for travelers. The people who work here are must, after all, live up to its eclectic clientele). Its crammed
this family business is a respectable choice. The Internet also travelers stopping over, making it easier to understand tables lining the pavement, with a unique uninterrupted view
is free of charge, the rooms are not bad for the price and a guest’s needs”, which means that they may have a job for to the pedestrian path/fashion catwalk, are a distinctively
it is very well positioned, only a two-minute walk from the you, if you fancy staying in Athens a little longer. Travel light or Athenian landmark, even in winter. Service is very profes-
Monastiraki area. Q 33 rooms. Singles: €60-80, Doubles: choose a room on the first floor, as the word “lift” is unknown sional. If you are looking for a stylish night out in town, you
€70-100. PTJAGW hhh here. Q Dorms: €20, Singles: €30 Doubles: €40, Triples: should consider checking this out. QOpen 10:00 - 02:00.
€50, Quads: €60. PJARGB €€€. PJAB

Apartments/Studios Arabic
Habiba Astypaleas & Patission 224, tel. (+30) 210
Athens Studios E8, Veikou 3A, MAcropolis, tel. EP16 D4, Epikourou 16, MThissio, tel. 6976 484135, 8673722. If you want to go off the beaten-track, brave the
210 9235811, info@athensstudios.gr, www.athens- info@boutiqueathens.com, www.EP16.com. Luxury outer limits of the city centre and head towards Patissia. On
studios.gr. This is one of our top low budget favourites. apartment accommodation is scarce in Athens, as is rea- the corner of Patission and Astypaleias, Habiba serves the
You’ll be just a couple of steps away from the New Acropolis sonably priced accommodation. Brand new entry EP16 best falafels and humus in the city, homemade on a daily basis
Museum and the Acropolis itself. You’ll get to stay in an hits both birds with one stone and what’s more: it brings
apartment that pretty much looks like home. Some of the
delights to look forward to are flat screens, comfy sofas
a fresh metropolitan air in downtown Athens. Don’t think
of chandeliers and silver cutlery, the 4 brand new apart-
Price Guide
and a free ADSL connection. Elspeth Geronimos, the lady ments housed in a refurbished 30s building are luxurious
in charge, wants to create an English speaking corner in the contemporary sense of the word: designer furniture,
in the heart of Athens and her studios form part of this pleasant homey but minimal environment, a location right Prices are based on a good meal with house wine
plan. A lunch corner and a laundromat make up the other in the arty heart of the city and every modern amenity you (where not available, we assume that a bottle
pieces of the puzzle. By the way, don’t bother dropping off may ever need for a comfortable stay. This is definitely the of decent but reasonably-priced wine is shared
your dog at the kennels. Dogs are more than welcome! next Athenian super-hit for the knowledgeable and lucky few between two people).
Make sure you don’t miss out on the opportunity to get a (reserve well in advance). Minimum stay 3 days. Q €110 €: Less than €15 per person
glimpse of the “Athens by night” walking tour, organised by for the larger apartments and €90 for the smaller ones.
Athens Studios. That’s the right time of day to appreciate Negotiable for long term stay.A complimentary bottle of €€: €15 - €30 per person
the city’s delights, with people who know where to take champagne awaits those who mention In Your Pocket on €€€: €30 - €45 per person
you. Q Singles: €22-26, Doubles: €35-50, Triples: €96. booking!. PTJA6GBW €€€€: More than €45 per person
PTJAR6GW

Athens In Your Pocket athens.inyourpocket.com athens.inyourpocket.com August - September 2010


30 Restaurants Restaurants 31

by brothers Mohammed and Mahmoud. Serving up traditional


recipes their mother taught them while growing up in Pales- Bar Restaurants salads. Accompany your meal with a fine wine or champagne
from its discerning wine list and enjoy your meal in an elegant
tine, this restored, neo-classical interior - of what once was a Avalon C4, Leokoriou 20 & Sarri, Psirri, MThissio, tel. environment to the sound of mellow ethnic, jazz and classical
music school - hosts live music on Friday and Saturday nights. (+30) 210 3310572. A bar restaurant with long wooden music. QOpen 13:00 - 02:00, Sat 13:00 - 18:00. Closed
QOpen 20:30 - 01:30. Closed Mon. PAES tables and a medieval ambience specialising in mussels Sun. €€€€. PJA
prepared in every possible way. It offers a good selection of
Argentinean beers and you can continue your evening with nicely prepared
drinks at the bar. Occasionally, they organise live events. Ethiopean
El Bandoneon B2, Virg. Benaki 7, Metaxourgio Sq, QOpen 18:30 - 01:00, Sun 13:00 - 01:00. Closed Mon. Lalibela Naxou 26-28, Kypseli, tel. (+30) 210 8652495.
MMetaxourgio, tel. (+30) 210 5224346, www.elbando- €€€. PJAE Athens’ Ethiopian restaurant. Simple and unrefined family-run
neon.com. An authentic restaurant run by an Argentinean establishment offering authentic Ethiopian cuisine served
tango teacher who, after falling in love with a Greek lady, Bacaro E4, Sofokleous 1, MPane, tel. (+30) 210 in the traditional way. Should you decide to come here, we
decided to bring a bit of his country’s passion to the heart 3211882. Hidden in a lovely atrium this is a modern bar- recommend that you have plenty of time in your hands, as
of Athens. Theatrical events with tango dancers, free tango restaurant and at the same time a music stage where bands service tend to be rather slow. Then again, if you are at leisure
lessons some days of the week and a fantastically decorated perform live jazz on a daily basis. The menu is a collection to while the time away and do not mind the rather haphazard
dining hall, make up the perfect setting to savour the delicious of delicious Mediterranean dishes worth trying but you can approach to the menu (basically, the menu is more or less
meats and wines coming straight from Argentina. Reserva- also watch the performances enjoying a fine cocktail.The redundant, you need to ask which dishes are available), this
tions highly recommended. QOpen 20:00 - 01:00. Closed place hosts jazz-themed art exhibitions and during the day- is an interesting and definitely original dining choice. QOpen
Sun. €€€. PJA time they serve coffees and snacks.There is no admission 13:00 - 01:00. Closed Tue. €€. PA
charge for the performances. QOpen 09:00 - 01:00. €€.
Asian PTJAEB
French
Kona Kai Syngrou 115, (Ledra Marriott Hotel), Balthazar Tsoha 27 & Vournazou, MAmpelokipi, tel. Cellier Le Bistot G5, Panepistimiou 10, MSyntagma,
MSyngrou-Fix, tel. (+30) 210 9300000. This Polynesian (+30) 210 6441215. A classic ‘see and be seen’ bar- tel. (+30) 210 3638525. A grand Parisian bistrot right in
restaurant became a synonym for fine dining in an era when restaurant for the affluent crowds of the city, housed in an old the centre of Athens. Excellent location to enjoy a glass of
Athenians were used to international cuisine as much as grand neoclassical mansion with a beautiful garden. Food is wine and a light lunch in style, after a tiring sightseeing or
they were used to snow sledges. A quarter of a century later, Mediterranean and priced for the celebrity clientele, but the shopping walk. The piano and a sax will add that extra touch.
Athenians have become true cosmopolitan diners but Kona music can be too loud for those who prefer to enjoy a quiet QOpen 12:00 - 01:00. Closed Aug €€€. PJA
Kai remains a point of reference for the knowledgeable who dinner. Do not dress too casual. QOpen 21:00 - 01:30.
come here time and again to enjoy excellent food prepared €€€€. PJA Chez Lucien A7, Troon 32, Petralona, MThissio, tel.
by top Polynesian chefs. As Marriott deliberately keeps its (+30) 210 3464236. A tiny French owned bistrot hidden for
original tacky Polynesian decoration, the place cannot be Central H5, Kolonaki Sq, MSyntagma, tel. (+30) 210 years in the now upcoming area of Petralona. Troon street
described as ultra fashionable, but who needs to be trendy 7245938. Right on Kolonaki Square, this is the top meet- is one of the prettiest in the city with an old Athenian flavour
when one is already a legend? QOpen 19:00 - 00:00. Closed ing point for très chic ladies, after they’ve spent a fortune in and atmoshere. You may have to share your table (there is
Sun. €€€€. PTJAU the expensive fashion boutiques which abound in the area. also one hanging upside down from the ceiling but we doubt
The music is mainstream and loud and the food pricey. The you can dine there) and you’ll enjoy original French specialties
Red Indian D3, Epikourou 25 Psirri, MThissio, tel. party every Friday starts as soon as the Yuppies walk out of prepared in the open kitchen and French wines at very rea-
(+30) 210 3219908, www.redindian.gr. This restaurant is their offices and every Saturday as soon as the shops close. sonable prices. Just make sure you come early (that’s before
so authentic, it feels like it has been taken to bits somewhere QOpen 12:00 - 02:00. €€€€. PJA 21:00 in Athens) - they take no phone reservations. QOpen
in India and reassembled in the darkest part of Psirri. You can 20:30 - 01:30. Closed Aug 9-31 €€. PTB
tell it is an up market establishment for the local Indian and Hell’s Kitchen E3, Kleisthenous 13, MOmonia, tel.
(+30) 210 5241555, www.hellskitchen.gr. This is not
Pakistani community, no less welcoming though for those of
us who appreciate an original Madras. All the dishes served a typical Athenian restaurant, in the sense that it has more Greek Cretan
are equally authentic and you can choose between a set of a London, Berlin or indeed, New York feel, and that’s why Alatsi K5, Vrasida 13 (Hilton area), MEvangelismos, tel.
menu and dozens of delicious main courses. QOpen 18:00 we love it. Huge glass windows overlooking the seedy back (+30) 210 7210501/(+30) 210 7210502. When famous
- 00:00, Sun 02:00 - 00:00. €€€. PTJA streets of the City Hall, dim lights, open kitchen and a bar that, TV journalist Stavros Theodorakis launched this restaurant,
unlike most restaurants, makes it worth visiting even just for it became an instant hit. Politicians and fellow journalists,
Wagamama The Golden Hall, Kifissias Avenue 37, tel. drinks. The food mainly consists of burgers and sophisticated among others, throng here to savour the Cretan dishes
(+30) 210 6836844, www.wagamama.com.gr. Athens sandwiches, with a few salads and pasta. I QOpen 12:00 - cooked using fresh produce shipped daily from the island of
got its own Wagamama recently and those of us who never 00:00. Closed Sun. €€. PJA Crete. Snails, rabbit, and ‘gamopilafo’ (risotto served at Cretan
miss the oportunity to enjoy its fresh and delicious Asian weddings) are among the specialties. QOpen 13:00 - 01:00.
meals abroad got really excited! The quality and prices are Mommy G3, Delfon 4, Kolonaki, MPanepistimio, tel. Closed Sun. Closed Aug €€€. PJA
the same as in every other wagamama around the world but (+30) 210 3619682. An interesting bar-restaurant packed
it is a shame that this first Athenian restaurant is housed with old mismatched furniture and a sixties pop-kitsch home Revaizi Thermopylon 21 & Kastoros, Pireaus, MPi-
in the open space of a shopping mall. They take no phone feel. It hosts periodical art and photographic exhibitions and raeus, tel. (+30) 210 4080017. Cretan cuisine is extremely
reservations, but once you’re there you can request a table, boasts of a loyal clientele of ultra-fashionable and avant- en vogue these days in Athens but this is a hidden original
do your shopping in the new exclusive Golden Hall and then garde Athenians who come here to enjoy lazy drinks in the Cretan restaurant in the harbour of Piraeus, that was not even
return to enjoy your freshly prepared yasai yaki soba. QOpen afternoons or lively dj sets in the evenings. The small terrace featured in Greek listings magazines till recently. You’ll enjoy
12:00 - 11:30. €€. PTA outside is a good option for a quieter dinner and conversation. all the usual Cretan fare (‘gamopilafo’, rabbit etc), excellent
QOpen 20:00 - 03:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 04:00. Closed Aug meats and real Cretan wine, plus a free welcome ‘raki’ carafe,
Drinks 7-24 €€€. PJAB to the sounds of Cretan music (live on Friday evenings). Take
metro line 1 all the way to the harbour of Piraeus, on exiting the
Ouzo Traditional aniseed-flavoured spirit usually ac- Ratka Haritos 30-32, Kolonaki, MSyntagma, tel. (+30) station turn right and walk along the harbour for 500 metres.
210 7290746. Bar-restaurant with a 30-year prominent Take a right turn just before the Church of Agios Dionissios.
companying seafood ‘mezedes’
Tsipouro Traditional strong spirit
presence, great flair and a distinctive aura of a stylish Pa-
risian bistro, Ratka retains a loyal crowd of chic (and many
tel: 210 3805004 QOpen 12:00 - 01:00. €€. PE
Raki Traditional strong spirit similar to tsipouro
Rakomelo ‘Raki’ blended with honey, served warm
celebrity) Athenians who are attracted by its reputation. A
multicultural array of dishes is available to choose from, true
www.bfoodcompany.gr
Retsina Traditional wine flavoured with pine resin to its sophisticated metropolitan ambience. We enjoyed its 63-65 Emanouel Benaki str.
fillets cooked on stone, its excellent sushi and innovative

Athens In Your Pocket athens.inyourpocket.com athens.inyourpocket.com August - September 2010


32 Restaurants Restaurants 33

Kanella A4, Konstantinoupoleos 70 & Efmolpidon , Gazi, Tirbouson A3, Konstantinoupoleos 104, Metaxourgio,
Greek Modern MKerameikos, tel. (+30) 210 3476320. One of the great MKerameikos, tel. (+30) 210 3410107. A relatively new
Aleria B3, Megalou Alexandrou 57, Metaxourgio, success stories of Gazi and the neo-taverna movement. A entry, this modern Greek restaurant is run by a young man
MMetaxourgio, tel. (+30) 210 5222633. Great setting combination of a Greek mum’s type of cooking, low prices and Giannis and his parents and offers delicious traditional Greek
that manages to successfully combine pop, belle époque a fashionable clientele, packs this restaurant and its pavement food with a creative touch. The highlight of the dining hall (a
and urban funky elements with the romantic simplicity of a tables every single day and night. Cold lentil salad, and lemon converted workshop) is an impressive light pendant made
beautiful terrace, the food here is equally impressive. The lamb are our favourites while the house wine is an acceptable with wine bottles. If you are a train spotter, window tables
cuisine on offer ranges from traditional Greek dishes to fusion choice if you want to keep your bill at really low levels. QOpen offer an undisturbed view of the rail tracks outside. QOpen
Mediterranean cuisine, prepared with simple ingredients in 14:00 - 03:00. €€. PTJB 14:00 - 02:00. €€. PTA
ingenious combinations, with delightful results. QOpen
21:00 - 01:00. Closed Sun. €€€. PJA Kuzina C5, Adrianou 9, Thissio, MThissio, tel. (+30) 210 Yantes G2, Valtetsiou 44, Exarchia, MOmonia, tel.
3240133. Stylish modern taverna serving quality cooking that (+30) 210 3301369. An upmarket (for the neighbourhood of
Athiri B4, Plateon 15, Kerameikos, MThissio, tel. has rightfully earned its place among the most famous fusion Exarchia) restaurant serving modern Greek cuisine prepared
(+30) 210 3462983, athirirestaurant@gmail.com, cuisine restaurants. The well known chef Aris Tsanaklides uses with almost exclusively organic ingredients. The clientele
www.athirirestaurant.gr. Dine in style in this excellent his experience and imagination and combines successfully consists mostly of young freestylers and intellectuals and the
Greek restaurant named after an Aegean grape variety. Here traditional, Mediterranean ingredients in an innovative way atmosphere is laid back and casual. QOpen 13:00 - 01:00.
you will enjoy traditional Greek dishes like stifado and beef based on the international gastronomic trends. Try out some €€. PTJA
stew served with hand made pasta, the way tourists usually of his creations such as dumplings filled with a feta cheese
don’t. All the ingredients used are fresh, the atmosphere in mousse and served with pomegranate syrup or orzo risotto
the neo-classical building is civilised but not stiff and the ser- style with lobster that will impress even the most demanding Greek Traditional
vice professional yet friendly. A restaurant worth one of your fans of gastronomy. Continue your evening with drinks at
less casual (but not expensive) Athenian evenings. QOpen Tarazza roof bar, with a geat Acropolis view. QOpen 13:00 - Damigos (Bakaliarakia) F6, Kidathineon 41, Plaka,
20:00 - 01:30. €€€. TJALB 02:00. €€. PJAB MSyntagma, tel. (+30) 210 3225084. Right in the heart
of touristy Plaka, this basement taverna serves ‘bakaliarakia’
Barbara’s Food Company G2, Emm. Benaki 63-65, ManiMani E8, Falirou 10, Makrigianni, MAcropolis, tel. (fried cod in batter served with ‘skordalia’- the deadly garlic
Exarchia, MOmonia, tel. (+30) 210 3805004. If you’re (+30) 210 9218180. Mani is the rocky area in the south of sauce) the same way it has done throughout the twentieth
looking for a bit of soul in your food, look no further than the Peloponnese, and many of its local dishes are served in century. Dining here makes one feel like an extra in an old
Barbara’s Food Company. Very close to the archaelogical this superb modern restaurant, housed in the first floor of a black and white film and rightly so…the place has provided
museum, serving up what they like to call ‘food for real people’, neoclassical building a few steps away from the new Acropolis the setting for many Greek films of the sixties. QOpen
this is one restaurant that never compromises on quality. With museum. If you are looking for real, non -touristy Greek food at 14:00 - 12:00. €€. PJN
modern interpretations of classic Greek staples and a few surprisingly low prices, this is your first choice. We love dining
more experimental dishes thrown in, the warm atmosphere here and we cannot recommend it enough. QOpen 13:00 - Doris E4, Praxitelous 30, MPanepistimio, tel. (+30) 210
that crosses service and self-service makes this one of the 01:00, Sun 13:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. €€. PTJA 3232671. A daytime-only restaurant, catering to a clientele
nicest places to eat in the city. QOpen 12:00 - 02:00, Sun of local business people and shoppers. Do not be deterred
12:00 - 01:00. €. PTJA Mespilea A4, Persefonis 59, Gazi, MKerameikos, tel. by the colour of the walls (who on earth thought of painting a
(+30) 210 3460972. With a distinct ‘homey’ feeling, this new
Fasoli G2, Emmanuel Benaki 45, Exarchia, MOmonia, arrival on the Athenian restaurant scene has been welcomed traditional, old -fashioned Greek restaurant pink?) the food
Panepistimio, tel. (+30) 210 3300010. This is a low-bud- by gourmets who have come to appreciate its simple traditional here is excellent. You can choose from an extensive menu
get restaurant that nonetheless will impress your companion and fusion recipes with their fresh ingredients, great taste and (displayed every day on a blackboard, only in Greek) that could
as long as she doesn’t see the bill. Students love this place refreshing simplicity. Its dishes include a selection of soups, in its own right be proclaimed a cook book on Greek cuisine.
as it gives them the opportunity to eat a decent meal in an pies, ‘meze’, fish and succulent meats traditionally slow-cooked Prices are dead cheap and, if you prefer to opt for sweets,
uplifting environment, without spending a fortune. The place in earthenware dishes. The atmosphere is reminiscent of a styl- ‘loukoumades’ (Greek-style doughnuts topped with honey)
is bright, with small glittering lights inside and outside. We ish taverna, with a tranquil flow of background music, perfect are the house specialty. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed
found the staff was in a hurry to serve us but nonetheless to relax and savour the tasty food. QOpen 20:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sun. €€. PTJNS
friendly and fun to talk to. QOpen 13:00 - 01:00. Closed Sat 13:00 - 02:00, Sun 13:00 - 01:00. €€. PJ
Sun. Closed Aug 9-23 €€. PJAB Ilias C5,B5, Thessalonikis 7 & Eptahalkou 5, MThissio,
Milos K5, Hilton hotel, Vasilisis Sofias 46, MEvangelis- tel. (+30) 210 34 22 407/(+30) 210 345 80 52. The
Ioannis (Royal Olympic Hotel) F8, Athanasiou Diakou mos, tel. (+30) 210 7244400. Although you’ll find it at the hands-on consumption of copious amounts of barbecued
28-34, MAcropolis, tel. (+30)210 9288400. Famous Hilton hotel, this is a fine stand-alone Athenian restaurant. The lamb chops constitutes a time-honoured ritual that has
chef Kostas Tsigas is in charge of this new gourmet restaurant strong point of Milos is its use of top-quality local produce, survived the refinement of the modern Athenian. In these
in the roof garden of Royal Olympic Hotel. Traditional forgotten brought in from around the country, including fresh fish from the sister traditional Greek taverns you will enjoy the best lamb
Greek recipes prepared with the freshest ingredients and a Aegean Sea, which is shipped in on a daily basis. The ambience chops in town, and an excellent location on a quiet pedes-
modern twist and a breathtaking view of most city landmarks is ultra modern and the clients are mainly businessmen and tianised street. Beat the locals by arriving before 21:00,
(you can almost touch the Temple of Olympian Zeus) make celebrities, among others. Very nice thought to offer a €20 or call for a reservation as both places are packed every
this restaurant well worth of one of your less casual Athenian lunch menu of the same quality as dinner but watch out: wine evening. QOpen 20:00 - 01:00, Sun 12:00 - 17:00. Closed
nights. QOpen 13:00 - 01:00. €€€€. PTJAB is not included and it is not cheap. QOpen 12:00 - 00:00. Mon. €€. TJN
€€€€. PJA
Kallisti Gefsis I2, Asklipiou 137, tel. (+30) 210 Kappari A8, Dorieon 36, Petralona, tel. 210 3450288.
6453179, www.kallisti-restaurant.gr. Sweet and feminine Rififi G2, Emmanuel Benaki & Valtetsiou, Exarchia, tel. An old house, salvaged from demolition, and its front yard
like its name, which means “most beautiful”, with stylised (+30) 210 3300237. Modern restaurant huddling in a narrow have become a traditional Greek tavern that preserves a nos-
photographs of flowers adorning its walls and impeccable art street crammed with interesting culinary choices ideal for a talgic old Athenian atmosphere. The emphasis of the menu
de la table, Kallisti Gefsis is a restaurant that has managed to quiet dinner in style. The bright decoration brings to mind sum- is on grilled meat but there are other typical Greek dishes on
make its presence felt on the Athenian gourmet scene both mers on the Greek islands. To that extent, the food is quite light offer and the quality and taste of almost everything we tried
for its innovations, as well as for its refined and high quality and mostly represents Aegean cooking. You may need to book was exeptional. QOpen 13:00 - 01:00. €€. TJAB
food. Under its new management and the two female chefs, ahead, since it is usually filled with arty types. The house wine
flavours here are intense and memorable. A good choice for is an acceptable and economic solution, especially if you plan
savouring tantalisingly flavoursome Greek cuisine prepared to drink much. Anything you decide to eat will be a success but
with creativity and respect for quality. QOpen 20:00 - 01:00,
Sun 14:00 - 01:00. Closed Mon. €€€. PJA
do make sure you order the burgers. They’re simply delicious.
QOpen 13:00 - 01:00. Closed Sun. €€. PJA
inyourpocket.com

Athens In Your Pocket athens.inyourpocket.com athens.inyourpocket.com August - September 2010


34 Restaurants Restaurants 35

Palia Taverna tou Psara E6, Erechtheos 16, Plaka, wine list to choose from and whatever you order will be
Fine Dining MSyntagma, tel. (+30) 210 3218733. Plaka is full of more than appetizing. Make sure you try the ‘keftedakia tis
tourist traps but many expats swear by this taverna’s name. giagias’ (grandma’s meatballs), ‘mastelo’ cheese, anything
Matsuhisa (Nobu) Astir Palace Hotel, Apollonos It has been operating for more than a century in an old, now that ends in mastic, the chicken ribs with roast potatoes
40,Vouliagmeni, tel. 210 8960510. No need to restored building not very easy to find in the labyrinth of small and, last but not least, any pie. The salad with ‘anthotiro’ (a
travel to Beverly Hills and Aspen (or indeed Malibu, New streets. The food is basically fish and the kind of standard type of creamy soft cheese) is a good choice too. QOpen
York, Milan and of course Tokio) anymore, to savour Mr Greek more appreciated by foreigners. There is live music 13:00 - 01:00. Closed Sun. €€. PJAB
Matsuhisa’s heavenly creations. His newest restaurant and the prices are slightly high but it is probably your best
choice if you die to dine in Plaka. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00.
opened its doors in Athens recently, and became im-
mediately the gastronomic talk of the town. If you can €€€. PTJAIE Italian
appreciate the Nobu experience of creative Japanese Il postino Skoufa 64 & Griveon 3, Kolonaki, MPanepis-
cuisine at its best combined with a superb seaside Rozalia G2, Valtetsiou 58, Exarchia, MOmonia, tel. timio, tel. (+30) 210 3641414. This Italian-owned osteria
location and impeccable service, you won’t mind the bill, (+30) 210 3821685. Rozalia is a garden taverna that has serves fresh, simple, well cooked Italian food that you can
probably the highest you’ll pay in Greece (a ‘dégustation’ been around for almost three decades and is considered watch being prepared in its open kitchen. Postcards on the
menu costs €98 without wine). QOpen , Tue, Wed, Thu an institution in simple original Greek cooking among its walls and flowery windows give the place a pleasant Ital-
19:30 - 00:00, Fri, Sat 19:30 - 01:00, Sun 13:00 - 17:30. regulars that include students, artists and laid back types ian feel, while outside tables will make you feel like you’re
Closed Mon. €€€€. PAUG who frequent the Exarchia neighbourhood.You’ll be tempted dining in a suburb of Rome. Its position is very convenient
to pick most of the fifteen starters that will arrive as soon should you wish to continue your evening in the nearby
Spondi I8, Pyrronos 5, Pangrati, tel. 210 7520658, as you take your seat but don’t get carried away, the main bars in this small but lively nightlife neighbourhood on the
www.spondi.gr. With two Michelin stars and a member- dishes, grilled meats and fresh fish look and taste equally borders Kolonaki and Exarhia. QOpen 13:00 - 01:00. €€.
ship of Rélais & Châteaux, it is considered by many as good. Accompany with organic wine from the barrel and PTJAB
the best restaurant in Athens. Its French chef creates don’t worry about the cost, Rozalia is a crisis-friendly eatery.
haute cuisine dishes with imaginative flair, catering for QOpen 13:00 - 01:00. €€. TJAB La Pasteria Tsakalof 18, Kolonaki, H4, tel 210
people with exquisitely refined taste buds. The wine list 3632032, B. Katraki 6, Glyfada, tel. 210 8945085,
is as comprehensive as you’d expect in a world class Taverna tou Psirri D4, Eschylou 12, Psirri, MMona- Kasaveti 9, Kifisia, tel. 210 8085607, Ag. Alexandrou
restaurant like this and prices reflect the gastronomic stiraki, tel. (+30) 210 3214923. As you can probably 7, Palaio Faliro, tel. 210 9858880, K.Palaiologou 15,
experience. But if you choose to dine at Spondi we don’t guess from our list of recommendations, we are huge fans Nea Smyrni, tel. 210 9319146, 28 October Sq, Peris-
suppose that cost is an issue… QOpen 20:00 - 00:00. of original Greek tavernas serving real Greek food with no teri, tel 210 5775133, Ag Ioannou 19, Agia Paraskevi,
€€€€. PJAB frills and attitude attached. This is definitely one of those tel. 210 6019975, M. Geroulanou 58, Argyroupoli, tel.
places that has survived for decades in an area full of frills 210 9945722, Pentelis 73, Halandri, tel. 210 6854210,
Tudor Hall G5, Georgiou A, Syntagma Sq, MSyntag- and attitude and poor excuses for Greek restaurants. They Thivon 228, Rentis, tel. 210 4922960, Andrea Papan-
ma, tel. (+30) 210 3222210. Housed on the 7th floor do fish and they do meat and day specials and everything is dreou 35 Marousi, The Mall, tel. 210 6198230,Achar-
of the luxurious King George Hotel, right on Syntagma simply excellent. The wine is decent and comes from a barrel, non 309, Kato Patisia, tel. 210 2236295, Poseidonos
square, this is a restaurant with an aristocratic feel for the atmosphere is welcoming and the staff are trying their 2, Nea Makri, tel.22940 91330 If you are a fun of the
a truly special night out in Athens. The menu is a fine best when the place is packed. As for the bill, just don’t worry Italian cuisine, La Pasteria is an affordable option for dining
mixture of Greek and French dishes prepared with the about it. QOpen 12:00 - 01:30. €€. PTJ out in the environment of a traditional trattoria The famous
best local organic produce. The dining hall has a theatrical Italian chef Ettore Botrini is in charge of a true italian menu
splendour with chandeliers, high ceilings and Greek pillars To Kafeneio I5, Loukianou 26, Kolonaki, tel. (+30) that contains a great variety of traditional Italian recipes,
but we recommend you book a table on the terrace where 210 7237757. Unadulterated traditional Greek food in an authentic Italian pizza and pasta, fresh salads and pastry.
you’ll feel you can almost touch the floodlit Parthenon. atmosphere of understated elegance. The dishes here are QOpen 13:00 - 01:00. €€. PTJA
QOpen 12:00 - 16:00 & 19:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. simple and flavoursome. We recommend the “aginares ala
€€€€. PJAUB polita” (artichokes in a lovely creamy egg and lemon sauce), L’osteria Da Claudio Varnali 26, Halandri, MHalandri,
stuffed cabbage leaves (“lachanodolmades”) or the lovely tel. (+30) 210 6834228, www.osteriaclaudio.gr. After
Varoulko C4, Pireos 80, Metaxourgeio, MThissio, speciality salad, accompanied by its good quality house twenty years of success on the island of Sifnos, Claudio set
Kerameikos, tel. 210 5228400,www.varoulko.gr. wine. Of course, this being Kolonaki you will pay a bit more up shop in the elegant Athenian neighbourhood of Halandri.
By far the best sea food restaurant in Athens. Lefteris for your Greek culinary experience, but then again, the pleas- Authentic, casual and relaxed, this traditional Italian taverna
Lazarou, a celebrity chef awarded with a Michelin star and ant atmosphere and tasteful surroundings (including the attracts time and again pasta lovers from every corner of
founder of Varoulko, chooses the foremost ingredients signatures of famous personalities that have passed through Athens who come here for the imaginative recipes and the
and creates a magnificent, yet simple menu. He maintains its doors) explain the pricing policy. QOpen 12:00 - 00:00. freshness of the ingredients: Claudio boasts that there isn’t
a personal relationship with his guests and you’ll often Closed Sun. €€€. PJA a single can opener to be found in their kitchen! The place
see him leaving his kitchen and and discussing with them is a short taxi ride from Halandri metro station. QOpen
their impressions. A cellar visible from one of the dining Triantafyllo tis nostimias F5, Lekka 22, MSyntagma, 20:00 - 01:00. €€. PTAL
halls hosts an excellent list of Greek and international tel. (+30) 210 3227298. Difficult to pronounce and impos-
labels. A selection of daily-prepared imaginative des- sible to find as it is hidden inside a small arcade, this traditional
serts will ensure the best possible conclusion to your Greek taverna serves the local population of the surrounding Taverna: Synonymous with ‘tavern’ or ‘diner’, a
Varoulko experience. QOpen 20:30 - 0:30. Closed Sun. offices. There are both meat and fish dishes prepared with
€€€€. PJA fresh ingredients and a genuine taverna atmosphere that
no-frills, authentic and lower-priced eating-out
every Saturday afternoon comes alive with bouzouki. Add establishment.
to all that its ridiculous prices and you have a perfect lunch Psistaria / Psitopolio: No-frills grill-house serv-
Kioupia J4, Deinokratous & Anapiron Polemou, Kolonaki, place two minutes from Syntagma Sq. QOpen 12:00 - 19:00. ing meat dishes.
tel. (+30) 210 7400151. The philosophy of this Greek res- Closed Sun. Closed Aug 10-31 €€. PTJE Mezedopolio: Taverna specialising in ‘mezedes’
taurant is serving a plethora of traditional dishes from around
Greece, with an emphasis on local specialties, in a set menu that Tzitzikas and Mermigas G5, Mitropoleos 12-14, (entrées-nibbles)
is renowned for its lavish servings and never-ending succession Syntagma Sq, MSyntagma, tel. (+30) 210 3247607. Ouzeri: Taverna specialising in ‘mezedes’ that are
of finely-prepared dishes. There is also the option of an à la Located in the heart of Athens, at walking distance from many best accompanied by a carafe of ouzo
carte menu if you so prefer. Its strong point is that it offers an top and mid-range hotels, you’ll have to book in advance un- Tsipouradiko: Taverna specialising in ‘mezedes’
all-in-one crash-course introduction to Greek, regional cuisine in less you’re lucky. Crowded with all sorts of types and ages, that are best accompanied by a bottle of ‘tsi-
an elegant environment with a touch of aristocratic class. Bear this ‘mezedopolio’ is well known for its modern atmosphere
in mind, however, that the quantity occasionally overwhelms the and tastes. Decorated as an old grocery store, this 2-storey
pouro’
quality. QOpen 13:00 - 01:00. €€€€. PJA establishment is ideal for a relaxed night out. There’s a good

Athens In Your Pocket athens.inyourpocket.com athens.inyourpocket.com August - September 2010


36 Restaurants Restaurants 37

GB Corner G5, Hotel Grande Bretagne, MSyntagma,


Greek food 24 hrs tel. (+30) 210 3330000. This classic brasserie, a meet-
ing point for government officials, prominent businessmen
Papandreou Aristogeitonos 1, Central Market, and powerful media professionals lives up to the fame and
Mezes (sing.) / Mezedes (pl.): A selection of MOmonia. This is a veritable institution of the central luxury of its host Grande Bretagne hotel. Art-deco atmo-
entrées served in small plates and placed at the meat market. A 24-hour restaurant serving market sphere, leather sofas and immaculate service, together
centre of the table for sharing among friends. workers and visitors alike since 1896. A favourite early- with the well prepared Mediterranean food, make up the GB
Horiatiki: Traditional salad consisting of tomatoes, morning hangout for journalists in the older days, when experience. Probably the most formal business lunch you
cucumber, green peppers, olives, feta cheese and can have in Athens. And you’ll pay for it accordingly. QOpen
a generous serving of olive oil, universally known all national newspapers were based downtown. These
days party animals and bar staff make a stop here in 12:00 - 24:00. Closed Sat, Sun. €€€€. PJAW
as Greek Salad.
Horta: Salad composed of certain varieties of the early hours of the day. If you just had a crazy night
boiled wild herbs or greens. out topped with copious amounts of alcohol to boot, In Town F5, Mitropoleos 26-28, Syntagma, MSyntag-
take our word for it, this is what the doctor orders before ma, tel. (+30) 210 3243786. Home made Mediterranean
Saganaki: Pan-fried type of dish served with lem- treats with an emphasis on Greek cuisine, fresh pasta and
on. Popular varieties are the shrimp, or ‘garides heading back to your hotel balcony to watch the sunrise.
daily special dishes, just a few steps from Syntagma sq. The
saganaki’, cheese or ‘tiri saganaki’ and mussels QOpen 24h. €. PJS trademark of this friendly restaurant is the Greek platter for
or ‘midia saganaki’. two that will give you the chance to taste a number of Greek
Gemista: Oven-roasted tomatoes, peppers (and specialties (mousaka, meatballs, tzatziki, salad etc) at just
less usually, courgettes and aubergines) stuffed Pano Kato G4, Lykavittou 14, Kolonaki, tel. (+30) 210 €18.90. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. €€. PTJB
with rice and herbs (and optionally mince meat, 3617821. A chic and ultra-modern revamp of the traditional
pine nuts, raisins). neighbourhood grill-house, serving carnivorous specialties Olive Garden (Titania Hotel) F3, Panepistimiou
Gigantes: Giant beans oven-roasted in a tomato and a selection of tasty ‘mezedes’ in a sophisticated en- 52, MPanepistimio, tel. (+30) 210 3326000. This
and herb sauce. vironment. However, the glitz is matched by substance, as atmospheric and elegant restaurant is situated on the
Melitzanosalata: Aubergine salad (dip). the ingredients used are of fine quality and they have been roof of Titania hotel and is an excellent choice for night out
Taramosalata: Fish roe salad (dip). artfully prepared into mouth-watering dishes. A classy modern in style in the middle of an olive grove facing the floodlit
Fava: Chick-pea dip served with lemon and taverna that manages to match presentation with culinary Acropolis.There is live but subtle music and a full bar to
chopped onion. delectation. QOpen 13:00 - 02:00. Closed Sun. Closed take you and your companion into the early hours. The set
Soutzoukakia: Spicy meatballs flavoured with Aug €€€. PJA menu is a reasonably priced option but there is plenty of
cumin and served in a red sauce. imaginative dishes to spoil you for choice. QOpen 13:00
Moussakas: Well-known oven-baked dish of Telis D4, Evripidou 86, Psirri, MMonastiraki, tel. (+30) - 01:00. €€€. TJAUEB
potatoes, layered with mince meat, aubergines 210 3242775. Rich and poor have been eating side by side
and bechamel sauce.
Spanakopita: Traditional spinach pie. here for decades. Leave your table manners at home and Orizontes I3, Lycab ettus Hill, tel. (+30) 210
Tiropita: Traditional cheese pie. do not expect pleasant surroundings and fancy decoration. 7227065. Only a helicopter can offer you a better view
Stifado: Type of meat dish slow-cooked in wine You’re only here for one reason: to stuff yourself with the of the city. Here, the view will cost you a little less and
best pork chops in Athens. QOpen 13:00 - 01:00. Closed you’ll get dinner added in as an extra bonus. At the top of
and spices, together with a generous amount
of shallots.
Sun. €€. PJNB Lycabettus Hill, the panoramic view of Athens will add a
special touch to a romantic dinner. Take the railway from Middle Eastern
the top end of Ploutarchou St. in Kolonaki. QOpen 12:00 Nargile Harilaou Trikoupi 50, Kifisia, MKifisia, tel. (+30)
Mediterranean - 02:00. €€€€. PAB 210 8083333, www.nargile.gr. This excellent Lebanese
Pasta la vista A4, Dekeleon 1A, Gazi, MKerameikos, Boschetto J5, Evangelismos Grove, MEvangelismos, restaurant is the best excuse to leave the city centre and ex-
tel. (+30) 210 3461392, www.pastalavista.gr. Gazi was tel. (+30) 210 721 08 93. For the fans of aristocratic fin- Pasaji G5, City Link Shopping Centre, Spyromiliou plore the posh leafy suburb of Kifisia. The Lebanese chef with
temporarily left without a good Italian restaurant but Pasta de-siècle ambience and for those who still cling to ‘passé’ Arcade, MSyntagma, tel. (+30) 210 3220714. This years of experience in top restaurants in his country creates a
la vista is now back in new premises just of the buzzing main formalities, rules of etiquette and other such charming Mediterranean/Middle Eastern centrally-located restaurant menu as authentic as the atmosphere of the place. The nargile
square. The food is still prepared and served to true Italian antiquated traditions. As expected, this restaurant attracts caters to people with urbane tastes, seasoned in metro- (water-pipe), prepared by a dedicated employee in true middle
standards which means fresh ingredients, simple cooking a mainly older and well-mannered, ‘high-society’ crowd. That politan flair. The attractions of Pasaji, however, are by no eastern fashion and the belly dance show, every Friday and
and delicious results at very reasonable prices. One of having been said, it must be stressed that the strengths of means confined to its trendy-sophisticated décor and young Saturday, complete the experience. QOpen 20:30 - 01:15,
your best choices to start a long evening in the capital’s this establishment do extend to an interesting selection of professional clientele. The dishes on offer are a culinary Sun 13:30 - 17:00. Closed Mon. €€€. PTAX
‘entertainment village’ QOpen 14:00 - 01:00, Sun 13:00 dishes on offer, with a slight preference for fish and seafood, treat, while you will be spoilt for choice between a selec-
and its lovely garden. QOpen 13:00 - 16:00 & 20:00-00:30. tion of well-prepared finger-food, meat and pasta dishes.
- 01:00. €€. PTJA
Closed Sun. €€€€. PJA QOpen 13:00 - 00:30. Closed Sun. €€€. PJA Ouzeri
Glykis F6, Agelou Geronta 2, Plaka, MMonastiraki, tel.
Meat Lovers Canteen A4, Iakchou 8 & Efmolpidon, Gazi, MKer- Salero G2, Valtetsiou 51, Exarchia, MVictoria, tel. (+30) 210 3223925. Glykis is an ouzeri just off Plaka square
Butcher A5, Persefonis 19, Gazi, MKerameikos, tel. ameikos, tel. (+30) 210 3451508. Simple east Mediter- (+30) 210 3813358. There’s nothing the owners can do frequented mainly by students and some tourists where you
(+30) 210 3413440. Following the huge success of fish ranean food in a minimal environment at the right price is about the dodgy surroundings. So they made up for it by can have an ouzo lunch accompanied by a pikilia (a plate
restaurant ‘Sardeles’, the owners set up shop next door. the philosophy of this brand new retaurant (opened a couple doing a pretty good job of brightening the interior. Salero of assorted mezedes) coming in different sizes depending
This meat-only restaurant looks like an old butcher’s shop of months ago). It is located just off the hustle and bustle started off as a Spanish delicacies restaurant and has now on the number of people sharing. QOpen 10:00 - 02:00.
and serves fine organic meats and local varieties of sausage of the top Athenian nightlife destination, Gazi, and comes evolved into what we would call a Mediterranean treat. €. JB
supplied directly from every corner of Greece. Potatoes complete with a separate bar and a club upstairs where Tapas are always up for grabs, but don’t ask for the bill
fried in olive oil are a must. Lemon or chocolate pie and you can continue your evening until the early hours among before you’ve tried the spinach pie or the Catalane crème. Naxos D5, Hristokopidou 1 Psirri, MMonastiraki,Thissio,
the complimentary liquors will round off your meal nicely. young and cool crowds of the city. QOpen 20:00 - 01:00, QOpen 14:00 - 01:30. €€. PJA tel. (+30) 210 3218222. An ‘old school’ ouzeri in Psirri that
QOpen 13:00 - 01:30. €€€. PTJA Sun 13:00 - 01:00. Closed Mon. €€. PAB pre-existed the charge of the masses. Humble but real food,
fried fish and lots of ‘mezedes’ as well as charcoaled octopus
Meat Square I4, Irodotou 2, Kolonaki, tel. (+30) - usually on weekends- will perfectly accompany the ouzo-
2107251100. Set in a lovely converted neoclassical drinking experience you ought to have ay least once while in
mansion, this meat restaurant offers a good selection of post your own restaurant review at: for more restaurant reviews check out: Athens. QOpen 08:00 - 01:00. PTJB
carnivorous delights. We recommend the rib eye and lamb
ribs, as well as the leek and cheese pie and wild herb salad
(‘stamnagathi’). The atmosphere exudes sophistication and
www.inyourpocket.com www.inyourpocket.com Ouzou Melathron D5, Astigos& Philippou, MMonas-
tiraki, tel. (+30) 210 3240716. Thessaloniki in northern
an aura of well-mannered propriety that will appeal to some Greece is a city of fine food and a relaxed lifestyle and it
and not to others. QOpen 13:00 - 01:00. €€€. PJA is only natural that Ouzou Melathron, one of its famous

Athens In Your Pocket athens.inyourpocket.com athens.inyourpocket.com August - September 2010


38 Restaurants Restaurants 39

‘ouzeri’ set up shop in the capital. Convenient location and Gialiskari Achilleos 119, Paleo Faliro, tel. (+30) 210
Souvlaki excellent ‘mezedes’ make it a favourite among Athenians 9837498. We don’t often recommend restaurants outside
and visitors alike. You may have to wait for a table (no the city centre unless we think that the food you will enjoy there
reservations) but it is well worth it. QOpen 13:00 - 01:00. is really worth a short bus or tram ride. This is one of those
Bairaktaris E5, Monastiraki Sq, MMonastiraki, tel. full menu on the right and walk into the left door where you
€€. PJA cases: a restaurant paying utmost attention to the quality and
(+30) 210 3213036. Mr. Bairaktaris, the owner of this have no choice but a kebab in non greasy pita bread with
the freshness of the ingredients they use. The menu is therefore
historic kebab house (and a neoclassical buildings…collec- just tomato and onion, the original stuff sold here since
the fifties when the father’s owner came to Athens from
Rebecca D4, Miaouli 22, Psirri, MMonastiraki. If not set but depends on the fish that passed the cook’s daily
tor!) has been feeding both the Athenian élite and working you’re looking for an unaffected, no-frills going-out experi- tests: ie the best in the market. And what’s more: the bill will be
classes for decades. He loves being photographed with Constantinople. The kebab is top quality pure meat and
ence in a buzzing, youthful environment, this is wor th just a fraction of what you’d pay elsewhere for the same quality.
his celebrity customers and putting the framed pictures on less spicy than elsewhere but the hot paprika added on
checking out. Situated in the lively nightlife area of Psirri Some regulars will be disappointed we’re giving away their little
the dining hall’s walls. Its strategic location on Monastiraki top adds that little piquant extra that makes it one of the
and brimming with a casual crowd of students sipping secret, but that’s our job after all, isn’t it? Tram from Syntagma
Square ensures it is perennially packed, despite fierce tastier choices in the city. QOpen 12:00 - 16:00. Closed
their “rakomela” (traditional sweet but in no way innocent Sq, tram stop Achilleos (about 30 min) QOpen 14:00 - 00:00.
competition by its equivalent neighbours. The kebab, which Sat, Sun. €. JNS drink concocted by warming up raki -a strong spirit- with Closed Mon. €€. PTA
is actually an elongated meatball flavoured with spices, is honey), the atmosphere here is reminiscent of a university
very tasty and the grease will keep you going for a whole Livadia F2, Gladstonos 7, MOmonia, tel. (+30) 210 campus bar. You will be surprised to find that despite its in Jackson Fish H5, Milioni 4, Kolonaki, MSyntagma, tel.
day if you’re on a budget holiday! QOpen 09:00 - 02:00. 3832413. Named after the Greek town famous for its no way extraordinary décor, it manages to create a lively, (+30) 210 3616098. Jackson Hall’s second level has been
€€. PTJABS kalamaki this is a heavy-duty souvlatzidiko. A look in the playful ambience and you may even have to queue for a transformed into a fish restaurant following the establishment’s
refrigerator with the thousands of kalamakia waiting to be cramped little table on the curb. A good choice if you’re original principles: Great food and fun in a casual American atmo-
Iroon Square E5, Iroon Square 6, Psirri, MMonasti- grilled will give you a good idea of the turnover of this place the laid-back type and enjoy being at the epicentre of all sphere. White furniture and navy decoration prepare the visitors
raki, tel. (+30) 210 3218219. This is actually an address and therefore the freshness of the meat sold. The uneven the buzz - the ideal people-watching spot. QOpen 13:00 for the seafood feast that awaits them. There are lots of deli-
as this place has no name. It doesn’t need one as it has chunks of pork on the skewer, as opposed to the perfect
- 02:00. €€. JNB cious starters and mussel dishes but the emphasis is on large
been well known for years for its tasty fare among its fans cubes in most places, make them look and taste home-
fresh fish grilled to perfection.The clientele is the usual Kolonaki
who queue everyday during lunchtime to enjoy high quality made and are enjoyed by most on a plate with french fries
trendy crowds. Prices are fair for the quality of the food. QOpen
kalamakia and meatballs served on their own or inside half and a cold glass of beer. QOpen 12:00 - 16:00. Closed Sea Food 13:00 - 01:00, Sun 13:00 - 18:00. €€€. PTJA
a loaf of normal bread. If you are a fan of pita bread head Sat, Sun. €. JNS
Efta Thalasses G4, Omirou 11, Kolonaki, MPanepis-
elsewhere, none is served here. QOpen 12:00 - 16:00. timio, tel. (+30) 210 3624825. Coming to Athens after Sardeles A5, Persefonis 15, Gazi, MKerameikos, tel.
Closed Sat, Sun. €. JNS Nikitas D4, Agion Anargyron 19, Psirri, MThissio, a big success in the capital of good food Thessaloniki, Efta (+30) 210 3478050. This modern and reasonably-priced fish
tel. (+30) 210 3252591. If you happen to pass through
Thalasses (seven seas) is a modern fish and sea food res- restaurant specializes in humble varieties of fish and has become
Kavouras G2, Themistokleous 64, Exarchia, MOmo- Psirri during the daytime and feel like an authentic cheap
taurant with a civilised feel. It is not dirt cheap but the qual- a huge success. When the weather is good it more than triples
nia, tel. (+30) 210 3838010. Feast your appetite on and delicious lunch, is very easy to spot Nikitas. It is the one
ity of the food served (everything is fresh and deliciously its size with pavement tables right on the main Gazi street, where
gyros or kalamaki, wrapped in warm pita bread and topped whose outside tables are always crammed and you may
cooked) makes it a good choice for an ouzo lunch among you can watch the crowds go by and enjoy the complimentary
with tzatziki. Kavouras is a place to savour the traditional have to wait for a while, but it is worth it. This psitopolio has
politicians and local businessmen. QOpen 13:00 - 01:00. limoncello and masticha liquors offered to pleasantly conclude
Greek souvlaki, no niceties, no refinements, just plain old been serving the working crowds of Psirri since 1967 and
Closed Sun. Closed until Sep 6 €€€. PTJA your meal. QOpen 12:30 - 01:30. €€. PJA
hearty meat-lovers’ fare. If, while taking a stroll through has maintained a loyal clientele even these days with the
the district, you feel pangs of hunger and decide to look for hundreds of choices in the area. QOpen 12:00 - 18:00,
something on the go, give it a try, though keep in mind that Sun Closed (July). €. JBS
good taste here is limited to the food, don’t go looking for
tasteful décor. QOpen 10:00 - 05:00. €. JNS Thanassis E5, Mitropoleos 68, MMonastiraki, tel.
(+30) 210 3244705. Opposite Bairaktaris, this is the
Kosta E5, Agias Eirinis Sq, MMonastiraki, No Tele- second of the three establishments making up the souvlaki
phone. A lunch cult for Athenians in the know. Every day, triangle of Monastiraki square. Tourists just grab the first
from his narrow kitchen, Mr. Kostas serves hundreds of available table on the street without much thought to which
portions of his single speciality: Meatballs on pita bread, of the three it belongs, but the loyal to Thanassis locals will
french fries, tomato, spicy sauce and a pickled peper on wait as long as it takes, as they insist that the superiority
top. Do not expect seating and service, customers enjoy in taste and quality compared to the neighbours is clear.
their lunch standing outside, in one of Athens’ prettiest The downside is that the menu is limited but that shouldn’t
squares. With €6 you’ll stuff yourself and you’ll feel like a matter as a merida kebab is why you’re here for anyway.
true Athens insider. QOpen 12:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, QOpen 09:00 - 02:00. €. JS
Sun. €. JNBS

Kostas F5, Pentelis 5, MSyntagma, tel. (+30) 210 Glossary


3228502. In every Athens guidebook you will invariably Souvlaki: (Athens & southern Greece only): A generic term
find the world famous ‘hole-in-the wall’ Kostas souvlaki in used for any kind of meat consumed inside warm pita bread
Plaka. Don’t go looking for it as this place shut down more together with tzatziki, tomato and onion. In northern Greece
than a year ago. However (and remember, you read it here the word sandwich is used instead, whereas souvlaki refers
first), Kostas is now back in business. He set up shop at exclusively to kalamaki.
a new location to serve his many loyal fans who insist that Kalamaki: (Athens & southern Greece only) A small wooden
he makes the best souvlaki in Athens since 1950. The new skewer with chunks of pork or chicken meat used in souvlaki
premises are modern and minimal with just a tiny grill, a or consumed on its own with a slice of bread.
fridge and a sink. The only reminder of the old place is the Gyros: Pork or chicken donner meat used in souvlaki or
same old sign reading ‘No stress’ in Greek. But the souvlaki served as a merida
is top class, and you won’t need to worry about the side- Kebab: Spicy long meatballs made with minced lamb and
effects of the tzatziki, as Kostas uses plain yoghurt instead. consumed as a merida or wrapped inside pita bread as
QOpen 12:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. €. JNS a souvlaki
Merida: Means ‘portion’ and it consists of a few kalamakia, or
Lefteris (o Politis) E2, Satovriandou 20, MOmonia, kebabs (usually four) served on a plate with a couple of pites
tel. (+30) 210 5225676. Hidden in the back streets of and increased amounts of tomato and tzatziki.
seedy Omonia square these are actually two separate Tzatziki: Traditional yoghurt, garlic and cucumber dip.
joints next to each other. Forget about the one with the

Athens In Your Pocket athens.inyourpocket.com athens.inyourpocket.com August - September 2010


40 Restaurants
cafÉs CafÉs 41

Clemente G5, Voukourestiou 3, MSyntagma, tel. (+30) the marks of the extraordinary decade. The crowd is equally Home made sweets and preserves like cherry and bergamot,
210 3219340. Part of the City Link complex, this is a spot cheerful and relaxed, you are right on Exarchia square after huge ice cream servings, sweet crepes, baklava and all kinds
to watch people passing by. It has a French feel inside where all. QOpen 10:00 - 02:00. PJB of coffees are served in this cute little cafe just off the main
people enjoy their drinks standing, and its cappuccinos are Psirri square. QOpen 10:30 - 01:30. PT
excellent. QOpen 07:30 - 24:00. PTJA Inoteka D5, Avissinias sq 3, Monastiraki, MMonasti-
raki, tel. (+30) 210 3246446. Located right in the middle Skoufaki H4, Skoufa 47-49, MPanepistimio, tel. (+30)
Da Capo H5, Tsakalof 1, Kolonaki Sq, MSyntagma, of Monastiraki antique shops, hidden behind jumbles of old 210 3645888. A small café with character. This is where
tel. (+30) 210 3602497. Famous outdoor café, where any furniture and every kind of second hand item sold in Avissinias you’ll find your average arty type sitting side by side with
self-respecting nouveau riche Athenian wants to be spotted square this all day café-bar is a perfect stopover during your your typical mid 30s ladies taking a break from their strenu-
among politicians, actors and high profile celebrities. This wanders in the city. Coffees, cold snacks and sweets are on ous shopping spree. It’s a strange combination but, for this
isn’t just a simple “place to drink your coffee” choice but a offer from early in the morning and when the evening comes freestyle coffee shop, it seems to work out fine. You’ll get to
way of life for some of its regulars who spend hours here on electro and ambient dub sounds by different DJs attract listen to an assortment of music and, if you lose track of time,
a daily basis practicing the intricate ancient art of checking young and fashionably alternative crowds. QOpen 07:00 you’ll witness its gradual transformation into a night bar. If you
out passing crowds. Espresso and cappuccino prices are - 03:00. PJB want to stay out of sight, try the upstairs level. Lazy sofas and
surprisingly reasonable considering the location and the cozy corners are perfect for hush-hush rendezvous. QOpen
clientele. QOpen 07:30 - 00:00. PJB Kafeneio Thissio C6, Akamantos 2, Thissio, MThissio,, 10:00 - 02:00. PJ
tel. (+30) 210 3473133. This café was serving the locals of
Dioskouroi Café D5, Adrianou 39, Monastiraki, MMo- Thissio long before bars and cafés took over every last inch Stavlos C5, Iraklidon 10, Thissio, MThissio, tel. (+30)
nastiraki, tel. (+30) 210 3253323. ‘Dioskouroi’ were the of available space around the area. These days, its clientele 210 3467206, www.stavlos.gr. The King’s stables once,
sons of Zeus and Leda. This is one of the few cafés under this is a lot younger and its decoration modern and minimal. It now a café, restaurant, club and art exhibition venue all under
label in the region and is situated in the picturesque spot just maintains a distinct laid back Bohemian character, unlike most the same roof. It is probably the only one among equivalent
above Monastiraki Metro station. Students love it and you’ll of its undifferentiated neighbouring counterparts. Drinks are establishments situated on Thission’s central night-time
have a hard time finding a table. Order frappé or Greek coffee cheap and if you feel peckish after the obligatory walk around thoroughfare, which is known by its name and which can
in the morning and if you hang around long enough, continue the Acropolis Rock, a light lunch comes at low prices. QOpen boast of loyal regulars. The inner courtyard provides a
with ouzo and “mezedes” while practicing your backgammon 10:00 - 02:00. PJ pleasant alternative if you’re not desperate to enjoy your
skills. QOpen 08:00 - 02:00. JB drink with a ‘catwalk’ view just outside. QOpen 09:00 -
Klepsidra E6, Klepsidras & Thrasyvoulou 9, Plaka, 02:00. PJA
Ethnikon G5, Syntagma Square, MSyntagma, tel. (+30) MMonastiraki, tel. (+30) 210 3212493. A nicely isolated
210 3310576. You can’t get any more central than this. Right from the madding crowd café, it is a must stop during your Zonar’s (Le Café D’Athenes) G5, Panepistimiou &
on Syntagma Sq, the heart of the city, this is an essential wandering in the narrow streets of Plaka. Coffees and refresh- Voukourestiou st, MSyntagma, tel. (+30) 210 3211158.
stop between sightseeing walks. ments will be placed next to the tasteful little fragrant basil A historic café that opened its doors again, following complete
If the weather is good, grab a table under the trees, get your plants adorning the tables. An idyllic setting for quiet evening renovation a couple of years ago. It has the atmosphere of a
camera out, order a frappé and enjoy being a complete tourist! drinks too. QOpen 10:00 - 02:00. JB grand café, a rich history during the last century and a very
QOpen 06:00 - late. PTJA central location. QOpen 09:00 - 01:00. PJA
Krinos E4, Aiolou 87, tel. (+30) 210 3216852. This café
Filion H4, Skoufa 34, Kolonaki, tel. (+30) 210 3612850. has been around since the twenties. Most of its regulars
Despite its unremarkable décor, this lively café manages too! Its old style has been kept intact, despite the occa-
Cafés to retain its multitude of regular customers (many of them sional refurbishments. Here you’ll savour the best bougatsa
famous actors and writers), because of its cosy laid-back (cream pie topped with sugar and cinnamon) in town. Also
Acropolis Museum Café E7, New Acropolis Museum, atmosphere and congenial environment. The coffee here loukoumades, ice-cream and sandwiches priced lower for
MAcropolis, tel. (+30) 210 9000901. Someone should is superb and so is the ice-cream, as this is one of the few takeaways. QOpen , Mon, Wed, Sat 07:30 - 15:30, Tue,
finally set an example in this overcharging city and what a places serving acclaimed Greek ice-cream brand Kayak, Thu, Fri 07:30 - 20:30. Closed Sun. PTJNS
nice surprise: it was the brand new Acropolis Museum with guaranteed additive and preservative-free. A good choice for
its two cafés. Elsewhere you’d pay through the nose for the lingering and enjoying an invigorating beverage together with Magaze E5, Aiolou 33, tel. (+30) 210 3243740. This
view and the privilege of the surroundings (the terrace tables a scoop or two (or three!), or a traditional pastry following a café became an instant hit as soon as it opened its doors a
are facing directly the Parthenon), but here you can enjoy the strenuous shopping session in Kolonaki. QOpen 08:00 - couple of years ago. Trendy and colourful crowds frequent it
absolute cheapest coffee in town (€1.50-2.50) and snacks 24:00. PTJB and its regulars prefer to sit at the bar under the huge map
and salads (€2.50-6.00) with traditional Greek products pre- of Athens that covers one of its walls. Mind you, on a sunny
pared with a modern twist. We look forward to the complete Gallery Café D5, Adrianou 33, Monastiraki, MMonas- day, it can be impossible to get a table outside. QOpen
menu they have promised. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00. Closed tiraki, tel. (+30) 210 3249080, www.cafe-gallery.com. 09:00 - late. PJB
Mon. PTJUB This is a café-restaurant and a genuine art gallery under the
same roof. The periodic art exhibitions often brighten up National Gardens café H6, National Gardens, Irodou
Aiolis E5, Aiolou 23, MMonastiraki, tel. (+30) 210 conversations and attract passing crowds. Exhibits range Attikou entrance, MSyntagma. Grab a book and walk
3312839. A large café housed in a lovely neo-classical from photography to sculpture and handicrafts. On Saturday into the national gardens where you’ll find this little tranquil
building. The tables outside are usually occupied by tourists afternoons (15:30) a jazz trio performs swing tunes at no outdoor café, with its tables scattered in the thick shade
enjoying their drinks in the sun, but the real attraction of Aiolis extra charge and Sunday mornings are dedicated to classi- of the garden’s trees. Coffees, snacks, refreshments and
is the atmospheric interior with its high ceilings and wooden cal music performed by a string quartet. If you prefer people the best cool afternoon break in the city. QOpen 09:00 -
panels. QOpen 09:00 - late. PJNB watching, grab a table outside and enjoy your Greek mountain 20:00. J6B
tea or Jamaican coffee on the busy Adrianou street with a
Booze E4, Kolokotroni 57, MMonastiraki, tel. (+30) direct view of the Temple of Hephaestus and the Stoa of Polis F3, Pesmazoglou 5, MPanepistimio, tel. (+30)
210 3240944, booze@boozecooperativa.com, www. Attalos. QOpen 10:00 - 02:00. PTJAEB 210 3249588. This is a secret retreat to get away from the
boozecooperativa.com. This is not an ordinary café, it is hustle and bustle, right in the centre of the city. An first class
rather a part of an alternative art house, Booze Cooperativa, Ginger Ale G2, Themistokleous 74, Exarchia, MOmo- choice for a relaxing light lunch or a cold refreshing drink during
that hosts a large number of art events, exhibitions, concerts, nia, tel. (+30) 210 3301246. Retro pop has become so a warm spring afternoon. To get there you must pass through
video art projections and performances. There is a long trendy during the last few years in Athens, that it is getting the bookshops’ arcade which is an interesting visit in its own
wooden table, magazines and board games, and if you feel a bit boring, not least because of the cheap and soulless right. QOpen 08:30 - late, Sun morning closed.
at home and spend the whole day there, just step upstairs imitations of 60s objects and furniture used en masse by
to the night club, an offspring of the historic 90s Booze club. owners who in their effort to differentiate their place achieve Serbetia tou Psirri Eschylou 3, Psirri, MMonastiraki,
QOpen 10:00 - late. PJ6E the exact opposite result. Ginger Ale is no place like that, tel. (+30) 210 3245862. The best way to finish off the
every piece of furniture is an original vintage item carrying dinner you’ve just had in Taverna tou Psirri across the street.

Athens In Your Pocket athens.inyourpocket.com August - September 2010


42 Nightlife Nightlife 43

Athens Sports Bar E8, Veikou 3A, Makry, MAcropolis, Blues Panormou 20, Ampelokipoi, MPanormou, tel.
www.athenssportsbar.gr. It’s the only Australian-run bar in (+30) 210 6437667. A bit of Memphis and Tennessee
Athens and it caters to ex-pats, tourists and all sports fans in Athens, this bar draws the laid back type of characters
who love watching a game of their favourite sport the right who don’t care much about keeping up appearances. They
way: with lots of beer and a fun atmosphere. Mondays are simply want to sip bourbon and listen to some good old blues,
pub quiz nights and Thursdays Karaoke. Happy hour every surrounded by posters of famous musicians, guitars and
evening 19:00-20:00 QOpen 07:30 - late. PJB trumpets. Every Friday and Saturday climb the stairs to the
first floor to enter a whole different world. Rock legends adorn
Baba Au Rum E5, Kleitiou 6, MSyntagma, Monastiraki. the walls, while the music takes you back in time, when rock
Forget everything you knew about cocktails! This new arrival used to rule supreme. QOpen 22:00 - 04:00.
is virtually a cocktail lab! The guys import directly most of the
rare spirits, bitters and syrups they use to produce their out- Brettos F6, Kydathineon 41, Plaka, MSyntagma, tel.
of-this-world cocktails. Their excellent menu-booklet includes (+30) 210 3232110, www.brettosplaka.com. A unique
seven cocktails you ‘must taste at least once in your lifetime’. store and one of the oldest Athenian family distilleries, selling
We had them all during our first visit and we can only agree its own brand of traditional sweet liquors during the day and
with the statement. The place itself has the minimal-industrial a bar serving these same spirits in the evening. The colourful
feel of the ‘Bios’ school but most people stand outside right bottles on the shelves covering its walls are artfully lit and
in the heart of the city’s historic triangle. The only negative make the place one of the most recognisable attractions of
point is that it can take long to be served when the place is Plaka. Bring your camera: Switched at low shutter speeds, it
packed. QOpen 20:00 - 03:00. PJB will produce some interesting pictures to take home. QOpen
10:00 - 02:00. PJ
Bartesera F5, 25, Kolokotroni St. & Praxitelous Gallery,
MSyntagma, tel. (+30) 210 3229805. This bar is divided Cachica Club B4, Plataion 5 & Agisilaou, Kerameikos,
into 3 parts. A sitting room for quiet conversations, a bustling MKerameikos, tel. (+30) 210 3470188. Cachica is a bar
section and, in the middle, a space for those who like a bit of that serves up summer evenings, rustic warmth and classic
both. As for the music, expect nothing less than alternative cool. Travelling the world with parties that explore music from
lashings of jazz, progressive, soul and hip-hop. One of the different countries and genres, if you’re looking to escape from
hottest night spots in town these days, frequented by your uber arty-farty haunts, electro-pop and hippie hang outs, a
average 25-40 freestylers. QOpen 12:00 - 02:00. Closed: nightcap here is just the ticket. With a perfectly restored,
Aug 13-24. PJB neo-classical interior bathing in soft, gold and red lighted hues
accentuated by coloured, opaque glass windows in rich blues,
Belafonte C4, Agisilaou 61, Kerameikos, MKer- greens and purples, banners falling from the gloriously high
ameikos, tel. (+30) 210 3462054. What could easily be ceiling and natural embellishments, there is no place quite
described as Nixon’s little brother, Belafonte is flying the flag like it in town. QOpen 21:00 - 04:00. PJ
for the Nixon-style Doxiadis-executed design identity. With
greys in a lighter shade, Nixon’s downtown New York urban Capu F5, Lekka 14, MSyntagma, tel. 210 3226844.
chic has been streamlined with clean, warehouse lines, plenty One of the two bars that have transformed this small arcade
Bars of standing space, and a magnificent glass façade overlooking
the dark, atmospheric streets of downtown Athens. A bar with
on Lekka street into a buzzing nightspot. The decoration
is retro-pop and the music is mainly black beat and soul.
A Lier Man A4, Sofroniou 2 Gazi, MKerameikos, tel. lights that perfectly illuminate, Belafonte is the ultimate night QOpen 10:00 - 04:00. PJ
(+30) 210 3426322. This bar-restaurant belongs to the haunt for the devilishly hip. QOpen 20:30 - 03:00. PJ
select club of establishments that become trendy as soon Circus G3, Navarinou 11, Exarchia, MPanepistimio, tel.
as they open their doors to the public. Tucked in a narrow Big Apple G3, Skoufa 69, Kolonaki, MPanepistimio, tel. (+30) 210 3615255. Different styles of people mingle in a
street just off the main Gazi square, it has been one of the (+30) 210 3643820. This bar restaurant obviously reminds cozy bar that fills up every single night. Try their cocktails and
big hits of the last season. Although they serve food, the one of New York. If you decide to dine here, be warned: You hold your ground. You’re in for a night of pushing, shoving and
place is primarily a bar with small rooms and smart decora- may have someone’s backside ending up in your plate. Or up close and personal. Helpful Tip: head for the settee at the
tion where freestyle crowds pack themselves to enjoy good some of the squashed customers might attack you in order back of the room. It’s the best place to be when things get
music of different genres. When the weather is good a couple to take your seat. Big Apple is the spot to be if you’re looking crowded. QOpen 10:00 - 03:00. PJ
of tables outside serve as a much needed chill out retreat. for some flirting or loud RnB/ pop music in a crowded environ-
QOpen 20:00 - 02:00. PJK ment. Take our word for it, it’s probably more sensible to stick Crudo A4, Konstantinoupoleos & Megalou Alexandrou,
to alcohol, eye contact and dancing than to try and maintain a Gazi, MKerameikos, tel. (+30) 210 3477048. Wine bars
Alley Cat A4, Konstantinoupoleos 50, Gazi, MKer- conversation over what was supposed to be a quiet romantic are rarely found in Athens despite the fact that Greece has
ameikos, tel. (+30) 210 3454406, thecat@alleycat.gr, dinner. QOpen 10:00 - 03:00. PJA come a long way in its appellation products. It was an Ital-
www.alleycat.gr. If cold beer and rock is what you need after ian, Antonio, who finally created a minimal and chic vineria,
a good dinner in Gazi, then you’ll find it in this old converted Bios B4, Pireos 84, Kerameikos, MKerameikos/ where you can complement your choice of Italian and Greek
house. A welcome change from the almost identical music Thissio, tel. (+30) 210 3425335, www.bios.gr. A point labels with a large variety of cheeses and hams supplied
played in every bar around the area. Music is not too loud, of reference for the alternative-progressive Athenian youth. A directly by the best Italian producers. With prices as low as
understandably as there are residences around, so don’t minimal bar, a stage for live performances, a basement club €4 per glass, your evening here can turn into an interesting
expect a head-banging kind of evening. QOpen 21:00 - hosting experimental djs and two small art house cinemas, and fun wine-tasting experience. The music is appropriately
03:00. Closed Mon. all under the same industrial roof of a beautiful bauhaus cheerful and discreet. QOpen 20:00 - 02:00, Sun 13:00 -
building with a quiet roof garden with a distinct downtown 02:00. PJAB
Ambariza F5, Lekka 14, MSyntagma, tel. 210 feel. Founder Vassilis Charalampidis, a designer and his team,
3257644. It opens early in the morning serving coffees and have embarked on a ‘creative exploration of the multiple En Delphis G3, Delfon 5, Kolonaki, MPanepistimio,
snacks etc but this place is basically a watering hole for selec- manifestations of urban culture’, at the same time bringing tel. (+30) 210 3608269. In the summer or when weather
tive drinkers. Dark wood is everywhere and the long bar is its Athenian nightlife a step closer to Berlin, London and New York. permits, large crowds occupy the lovely pedestrianised street
strongest point while guest DJs fill the place with appropriate Its quiet roof garden has a distinct downtown feel. QOpen with the neoclassical buildings, situated in this quintessential
funky - jazzy tunes. QOpen 08:00 - 03:00. PJ 11:00 - 3:00. PJW meeting point of the Athenian bar scene. Its loyals are neither
the posh nor the grungey types that hang around the two
inyourpocket.gr districts that it borders, Kolonaki and Exarchia respectively.
Basically, a happy medium. QOpen 10:00 - 02:00. PJ

Athens In Your Pocket athens.inyourpocket.com athens.inyourpocket.com August - September 2010


44 Nightlife Nightlife 45

Fantaseed A4, Triptolemou 8, Gazi, MKerameikos. Micraasia A4, Konstantinoupoleos 70, Gazi, MKer- Pop E5, Kleitiou 10, MMonastiraki, tel. (+30) 210
Freestyle bar that could have been a house but thank good- ameikos, tel. (+30) 210 3469139, www.micraasia. 3220650. Imagine fitting a bar in your corridor. That’s how
ness someone decided to make better use of it. It can get loud gr. A old neoclassical house, just off the main bar square narrow Pop is, situated in the city centre opposite a shoe
and crowded but that’s what those stylish small rooms are of Gazi, belonging to the owner’s family since they moved shop that in the evening suffers tens of young people sprawled
cozily tucked away for. Sprawl yourselves on the indulgently to Athens from Asia minor in 1926, is now converted into on its doorstep. Why should you go to a bar that probably
comfy settees and stay away of the dance floor. Unless you’re a 3 level atmospheric nightspot. A ground floor bar playing doesn’t have the space to accommodate your entire group
up for one last drunken spin. QOpen 11:00 - 03:00. PJ funky tunes, a first floor bistro with small rooms and flowery of friends within its premises? Because this is where you’ll
wallpapers and an open air terrace (when weather permits) get to savour the finest margueritas in town, to the sounds
Galaxy Bar F4, Stadiou 10, MPanepistimio/Syntagma, with an ethnic feel. The whole experience is completed with of Pulp and the rest of Brit-Pop hits. QOpen 12:00 - 02:00.
tel. (+30) 210 322 77 33.. Vintage at its best, a small bar Mediterranean food coming in small tapas portions, nargile Aug closed PJ
that has existed in Athens for ever, as reflected in its smoke and live dance show every Friday evening. The bar hosts
stained walls and furniture. Original seventies, with not-so- interesting photographic exhibitions of new and famous Priza Bar F4, Christou Lada 1, Karitsi Sq, MPanepisti-
young regulars, it has a civilised gentleman-like atmosphere, artists. QOpen 20:00 - 03:00. PJ mio, tel. (+30) 210 3244101, www.stinpriza.gr. A bar
and, as such, it is not recommended for a crazy night out. decorated with hundreds of… sockets, promising to electrify
Come here instead to experience how people used to enjoy Molly Malone’s Yiannitsopoulou 8, Glyfada, tel. (+30) your evenings in Athens. It is fast acquiring its own fans and
their evenings in an era long gone: fine drinks and meaning- 210 8944247, www.mollymalones.gr. Come the spring, becoming a distinct presence around Karitsi square, a neigh-
less conversation. Q Open 10:00 - 03:00. Closed Sun. the Athenians just love to spend their evenings down the bourhood with many bars of different styles that, nonetheless,
Closed Aug PJN coast, in and around the southern seaside suburb of Gly- all cater for selective crowds of the city. A different dj takes his
fada.The tram from Syntagma Sq will get you straight there place behind the decks every evening, playing anything from
Galaxy Bar (Hilton hotel) K5, Vas. Sofias Ave 46, and you can combine your little excursion with an evening of electronica to house and freestyle. Just watch your fingers,
MEvangelismos, tel. (+30) 210 728 10 00. Stay away authentic Irish hospitality and probably the only Irish Stew unless of course you are desperate for a funky Einstein-
if you’re on a budget holiday, but do come along to the roof you can find in Athens. Molly Mallone’s has been around reminiscent hairdo! QOpen 20:00 - 03:00. PJB
bar of the Athens Hilton if you’re the type who only feels at for more than five years and it’s a regular meeting point
home when mingling with important (looking) people, even if for the many expats of the area as well as locals who love Rock n’ Roll I5, Loukianou 6, Kolonaki, MSyntagma,
this comes at a price of €15 per drink. A classy bar not to be live sports and a pint of Guiness or two. QOpen 12:00 - tel. (+30) 210 7217127, www.rocknroll.gr. For more
confused with the classic Galaxy on Stadiou Ave.Amazing city 02:00. PTEK than twenty years Rock n’ Roll has been a nightlife point of
view, fine cocktails and delicious finger food, accompanied reference in posh Kolonaki. Always packed with affluent and
by music from top Athenian radio djs, all at the…appropriate Nipiagogeio A5, Elasidon & Kleanthous 8, Gazi, pretty faces, as mainstreem as it gets and relatively hard to
price. QOpen 15:00 - 03:00. PAB MKerameikos, tel. (+30) 210 3458534. This old and get in, this is a typical place to savour the wicked Athenian
stylish Athenian house used to be a kindergarten and that’s nightlife you’ve been hearing about. On Saturday afternoons,
Gazaki A4, Triptolemou 31, Gazi, MKerameikos, tel. what its name means. It looks quiet from the outside but just after the shops close the party starts and goes on until
(+30) 210 3460901. Those in favour of an evening of drink- that’s only because this is a residential area and many the early hours of Sunday. They serve food too - burgers
ing and hooking up with complete strangers should head for locals have complained about the noise in the past. You etc - but you are not here to stuff yourself but to see and be
Gazaki. In a neighbourhood crammed with bars, you’ll often might have to wait in line after midnight as it tends to get seen. An effort to look smart will pay off at the door. QOpen
find yourself wondering off into the street, glass in hand, only seriously packed, but that’s the price you have to pay for 21:00 - 04:00, Sat, Sun 13:30 - 05:00. PJA
to return a little later to wrap up the evening by knocking back good old soul and funk music and wonderful decoration. If
tequila shots and mumbling utter nonsense to the person you want to get more comfy and intimate you might try the Seven Jokers F5, Voulis 7, MSyntagma, tel. (+30) 210
who as it happened was unfortunate enough to be standing room to your left (as you walk in). It’s almost pitch black in 3219225. A real fun bar for those who want to get sloshed.
next to you. QOpen 21:00 - 03:00. PJ there. QOpen 21:00 - 03:00. PJ The owner/bartender puts on an amazing show, with dancing
and singing on his everyday menu. Freestylers and media staff
Hoxton A4, Voutadon 42, Gazi, MKerameikos, tel. Nixon B4, Agisilaou 61, Metaxourgeio, MKerameikos, love it here, but you’ll also get to meet expats as Reuters is
(+30) 210 3413395. In Hoxton’s industrial environment, tel. (+30) 210 3462007. It feels good to be able to take at walking distance from here. And when you find yourself
you get the distinctive impression that seamstresses are con- part in a conversation without having to scream one’s lungs awake the next morning on a bench or on one of the bar’s
stantly working behind the Chesterfield couches to shorten out in order to be heard. DJs wouldn’t exactly fit in the same seats with a terrible hangover, just order a coffee and one of
those baggy pants of yours. Pop, rock and electro glimpses room together but this is why this “film noir” bar attracts those delicious sandwiches Seven Jokers offers in the morn-
in an environment alluding more to a workhouse. There are all sorts of types. Minimal decoration for low profile people, ing and head off straight to work. QOpen 10:00 - 03:00, Sun
quite a few bars just outside the Kerameikos metro station with better things to do than stare at the couple on the 21:00 - 03:00. PJ
but make no mistake, this club is one of the top hot spots of beautiful red leather couch. Tasty nibbles from a limited
Athenian nightlife. QOpen 21:00 - 03:00. PJ menu in case your stomach begins to grumble. QOpen Six D.O.G.S. E5, Avramiotou 6-8, MMonastiraki, tel.
21:00 - 03:00. PJA (+30) 2103210510. A completely new concept has taken
Intrepid Fox A4, Triptolemou 30, MKerameikos, tel. over Avramiotou Street, a tiny, little road hidden just off Athinas
(+30) 210 3466055. With its name borrowed from the O’Connell’s Akti Miaouli 79, Piraeus, MPiraeus, tel. Street. Once the haunt of skaters and general night-time
legendary London club, this new Gazi entry is of course a (+30) 210 4281110. A new entry at the port of Piraeus, shenanigans with four different bars offering up four very
pure rock-metal house. There are hundreds of posters and this brand new Irish pub became an instant hit with the different identities, 6 D.O.G.S has taken over with a bar, an
record covers of the genre on the walls, a long bar, and a shipping community of the biggest harbour in east Mediter- events space as well as a gallery. Hosting a mixture of live
pool table and the music is thankfully far from the stale old ranean. Open all day for lunch, dinner, after work drinks, and and electronic musical events and parties practically on a
type rock one expects to listen in similar establishments. of course all live sporting events on satellite TV. QOpen daily basis, this is one street that’s always got something
Live performances organised from time to time. QOpen 12:00 - late. PAK going on. Good times to be had. QOpen 22:00 - 03:00, Fri,
10:00 - 02:00. PJEK Sat 22:00 - 05:00. PJEB
Pairidaeza F4, Parnasou 3, MPanepistimio, Syn-
Mai Tai I4, Ploutarchou 18, Kolonaki, MEvangelismos, tagma, tel. (+30) 210 3210233. Paradise in Persian. Swing A4, Iakchou 8 & Efmolpidon, MKerameikos,
tel. (+30) 210 7258306. This is a good choice for Kolonaki Situated on Karitsi Square, the owners of this bar seem to tel. (+30) 210 3451508. It seems that the team behind
beginners in the sense that it doesn’t feel as exclusive as have a distinct preference for black music. Perhaps that’s other iconic success stories in the Athenian nightlife are up
other establishments in the area, (without of course being their image of the afterlife. A room filled with indie-style to something similar in the Gazi Area. A cool and cosy bar,
completely laid back). Typical Kolonaki crowds enjoy early furniture and James Brown effigies singing “it’s too funky in and a tastefully decorated club upstairs make up oe of the
and late drinks: the after work ones, and those who come in here”. Should you decide to go out late, past metro opening top hotspots in Gazi. Different DJs every eveningl fill the place
later, with a certain number of regulars ‘working’ both ‘shifts’. hours, don’t worry. Driving there is also an option, courtesy with tunes ranging from swing to soul, and they have tango
If too much socializing makes you hungry, there is a Greek of an extensive parking lot situated right next to Pairidaeza. and milonga classes every Wednesday afternoon. QOpen
Mediterranen selection of dishes to choose from. QOpen QOpen 11:00 - 02:00. PJ 21:00-03:00. Closed Mon. PJK
11:00 - 02:00. JB

Athens In Your Pocket athens.inyourpocket.com athens.inyourpocket.com August - September 2010


46 Nightlife Nightlife 47

Villa Mercedes A5, Andronikou & Tzaferi 11, Rouf,


MKerameikos, tel. (+30) 210 3422606. Mainstream as Sexy Athens
they get, posey as they get and summery as they get, this
grand club will give you a good taste of a typical Athenian night
among pretty and wealthy faces. Make an effort to dress up
a bit, the beach look will not get you past the bouncers, and
arrive after midnight, unless you come for dinner. QOpen
21:00 - 04:00.

Tapas Bar A4, Triptolemou 44, Gazi, MKerameikos, Clubs Vinilio Riba’s club, 32 km Athens-Sounio road, tel. (+30)
tel. (+30) 210 3471844. The Iberian peninsula in the Baraonda Tsocha 43, MAmpelokipi, tel. (+30) 210 210 9655555, www.discovinilio.com. The city’s only
heart of Athens. Start off with interesting Spanish nibbles in 6444308. A luxurious club-restaurant located behind “Leo- original discoteque has moved to it’s summer opain-air home
the small dining area and end up knocking back the great- foros” Stadium, old home to Panathinaikos FC. Businessmen, on the coastal road to Sounio: disco balls, black neon lights,
est mai tais you’ve tasted since your last trip to Madrid. politicians and plain showoffs are often spotted here. It might the works.As always the music is the exact 60s 70s and 80s
Funky Tapas bar used to be low profile and selective, but be a little hard to get in if you’re not appropriately dressed, hits you’d expect and it’s strictly from vinyl records! It’s only
the owners probably thought their setting was big enough but don’t worry about being turned away if you wear sneak- natural that there aren’t many teens among the regulars but
to merit a change. They may have to think again. QOpen ers. If they are made by Ferrari that is! Dimmed lighting inside what do teens know about good old fashioned fun? QOpen
21:00 - 03:00. PJA prevents you from taking a closer look at your dinner. Don’t 22:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu, Sun. B
worry; it’s all wholesome and elegantly presented on your
The Art Foundation (TAF) D5, Normanou 5, Mo- plate. If you worry about finding another parking spot for a Vitrine Summer G8, Markou Moussourou 1 & Arditou,
nastiraki, MMonastiraki, tel. (+30) 210 3238757, night cap, no need to leave early as this neo-baroque venue MAcropolis, tel. (+30) 210 9242444. You won’t forget for Athens is not a European sex destination. However, as a
www.theartfoundation.gr. Established in 2008, TAF is is a full scale club too. QOpen 21:00 - 03:00. Closed Mon. a second you’re in Athens as this club’s main selling point is the big city, it certainly offers a range of sinful pleasures to its
a relatively new kid on the Monastiraki block, a refreshing €€€€. PJAK huge veranda with a fantastic view of the lit up Acropolis rock locals and visitors. The legal part of prostitution caters to
and creative endeavour that puts all other art-cum-bar and the night skyline of the city. However, alternative types, the lower end of the market. Brothels are concentrated in
establishments to shame. An outdoor bar situated in the BoBaYo G8, Arditou 1, MAcropolis, tel. (+30) 210 will only have the view to remember as the music is a typical certain areas of the city such as Metaxourgeio or around
courtyard of an exquisitely rundown neoclassical building 9219397. This is actually a long and narrow garden in the mainstream soup targeting people who mainly want to see and Filis St. and are usually seedy establishments housed in
dating back to 1870, the soothing sound of jazz, cool light- middle of a busy road converted every summer by different be seen in one of the capitals prime night spots. Drinks cost old buildings that can be distinguished by a simple light
ing and lovingly-tended plants make for a vibrant and intel- people into a club (this year three winter clubs joined forces). €10 QOpen 22:00 - 04:00. JB bulb placed at the entrance, which is lit even during the
lectual atmosphere that attracts the crème-de-la-crème Do not be detered by the heavy traffic all around, once you day. The ladies in most of these have seen better days
of the Athenian crowd. Its excellent exhibition programme
changes frequently and utilises the entire space in a way
hide inside its thick greenery, the cheerful music will be the
only thing you hear. QOpen 22:00 - 03:00. Adult Entertainment and the prices are accordingly low (€20-€30).
As for illegal prostitution, the cheaper end of the spec-
that would bring any art enthusiast to their knees. One of Alcatraz Syngrou 137, tel. (+30) 210 9316417, www. trum is basically composed of street workers that can be
the best bars Athens has to offer, a nightcap here brings Cubanita D4, Karaiskaki 28, Psirri, MMonastiraki, tel. alcatraz.gr. Some tables are just a breath away from the found during night hours along Solonos St. and around
together fine art and even finer conversation. Q Open (+30) 210 3314605. This night club has been around for dancefloor, but if you’re not lucky enough to get one of them, you Theatrou Sq. and Evripidou St. just off the Psirri nightlife
19:00 - 01:00. J6B many years but it hasn’t lost any of its Cuban finesse and can watch the show - which is the strong point of this club - on district. The latter ones are mostly good looking African
atmosphere. Cuban bands perfom on its live stage and its the plasma screens too. QOpen 23:30 - 06:00. girls, illegal immigrants who work the streets for little
The James Joyce D5, Astigos 12, Monastiraki, regulars are the fun loving Athenians of all ages. Dress up, get money and very often face organised police raids and
MMonastiraki, Thissio, tel. (+30) 210 3235055, fax into the mood and shake your hips to the Caribbean rhythms. Baby Gold Syngrou 140, tel. (+30) 210 9228902/(+30) disappear for a few hours in the back streets of the area.
(+30) 210 3235070, info@jjoyceirishpubathens.com, QOpen 22:30 - 04:00. Closed Mon. PJE 210 9235576, www.babygold.gr. The music is really loud in Be aware that these girls do not necessarily undergo any
www.jjoyceirishpubathens.com. This is precisely what here and if you forget about the naked beauties all around, you medical examinations, which their counterparts in the
was missing from the Athenian scene: A typical Irish pub. Island 27th km Athens - Sounio road, Varkiza, tel. (+30) could easily mistake it for a dance club. Things can get really legal brothels are legally bound to undertake. The higher
All major sports events are covered and every weekend 210 8925000. This classic summer nightclub could not be hot (and expensive) if you opt for a private lapdance. Avoid it end of the market is naturally made up of call girls that
and some week nights artists from around Europe perform called anything else. If you like being among well dressed, Fridays and Saturdays and better stick to beer. QOpen 23:30 publicise their services in many Greek newspapers, thinly
live. The decoration is unpretentious and tasteful: dark tanned, good-looking people and are willing to drive or take - 06:00. Admission fee: €15 (one drink included). disguised as soul mate ads. One of these (foreign) ladies’
wood, barrels, porcelain and books. The interesting black a 40 minutes taxi ride down the coast of Athens, you’ll be hourly visit rates will set you back at least €100.
n’ white liquor trade photos add an extra touch to the rewarded with a wonderful seaside setting and feel like you Baby O Pireos 171, tel. (+30) 210 3477744, www. For those with more…‘particular’ tastes, every night
whole drinking ritual.If your stomach begins to complain, spend one of your Athens nights on a real island. The food is baby-o.gr. One of the oldest strip clubs in town, with a really along the right hand by-street of Syngrou Avenue (running
order, what else? Fish n’chips. Q Open 12:00 - 02:00. Mediterranean and pricey but you can come just for drinks, funny DJ whose comments are unfortunately only in Greek! from the centre of the city down towards Piraeus), boys
PJA6IEB in which case you shouldn’t arrive before midnight. QOpen The shows performed by the girls get really hot. Try to get dressed as girls (transvestites) take up their posts and
21:00 - 04:00. €€€€. ABK one of the tables next to the dancefloor, you won’t regret it. wait for their clients. Prices negotiated on the spot.
Toy Bar F4, Karitsi 10, MPanepistimio/ Syntagma, Otherwise, the large sofas are roomy enough for all of you plus Of course there is always the pure entertainment option:
tel. (+30) 210 3311555. This is a small bar that pio- Second Skin A4, Konstantinopoleos 78 and Iera Odos, the ladies you’ll invite for drinks (€20). Lap dance: €10 QOpen you can head for one of the numerous strip clubs that
neered the nightlife scene around Karitsi Square. A classic Keramikos, MKerameikos, tel. (+30) 6974140013. If 23:30 - 06:00. Admission fee: €15. spring up in the city like mushrooms, where foreign girls
already, it encompasses three distinctive bars within the you’ve got an insatiable need to dress up in black leather and will table-dance for you or just keep you company if you
same establishment: In the morning, it serves coffee and strut your stuff like a main character in a Goth fantasy, then Diammond Dolls Syngrou 237, tel. (+30) 210 9421264, buy them an (expensive) drink (do not expect much more
sandwiches, in the late afternoon, it attracts professionals Second Skin is the place for you. A seriously seductive club www.penthhouseclub.gr. Some of the girls in this club could than this). Most of these clubs have an ongoing dance
for after work drinks while, in the evening, it transforms catering for the darker souls among us, this is one place girls easily be Playboy bunnies but the management is not content show, some quite explicit. Fortunately, you only pay for
itself into a lively and perennially packed bar with a loyal (and boys) can let their (Goth) hair down. The upper floor’s with them alone and from time to time calls in international what you get and there aren’t frequent cases of ripping
clientele that flocks here to enjoy delicious cocktails and electro dance floor is perfect for dirty hip-shaking (Fri-Sat), while celebrity showgirls to keep the regulars on the alert. A private off like it happens in many other European capitals.
listen to excellent music of different genres, depending on the ‘catacombdownstairs provides a more intimate setting. dance upstairs will set you back €50. Drinks cost €11, table (Owners wouldn’t want to push their luck, as these clubs
the resident dj. One of our favourites. QOpen 10:00 - QOpen 23:00 - late. Closed Mon, Sun. PJ dance €12 QOpen 23:30 - 06:00. Admission fee: €15. although tolerated aren’t exactly legal). That is not to say
02:00, Sun 18:00 - 02:00. PJA6 that what you get is cheap. Your entrance with one drink
Venue A5, Pireos 130, MKerameikos, tel. (+30) 210 Grand Ritorno K5, Michalakopoulou 52, MMegaro costs €10-15, a table dance of 2-3 minutes €10-15 and
Tribeca G3, Skoufa 46, Kolonaki, MPanepistimio, 3411410, www.venue-club.com. A typical Athenian mega- Mousikis, tel. (+30) 210 7245233, www.grandritorno. the ladies’ drinks €20 or more. Most gentlemen’s clubs,
tel. (+30) 210 3623541. Young flir ty professionals club hosting celebrity DJs from around the world. Mainstream, gr. A large number of mostly stunning dancers will happily join as is their self-professed title, are to be found on both
gather here for after-work drinks to see and be seen by posey crowds is the norm, with exceptions depending on the you for a drink (€20-30) or tabledance for you (€10-50). The sides of Syngrou Avenue and are easily recognisable by
their peers. Music is mainstream, drinks are good but if guest DJ There are three separate sitting areas, the main one regular shows during the night aren’t exeptional but the service their bright neon signs, but you can find them elsewhere
you arrive dressed as if coming straight from the beach, for the commoners, a VIP and a super exclusive one behind the is polite and the drinks passed our quality tests. QOpen in town too. Your hotel receptionist will probably be able
souvlaki-gyros in hand, you will definitely raise a few eye- DJ booth, just to remind us that when it comes to nightlife we’re 23:30 - 06:00. Admission fee: Week nights: €10, Weekends: to point you to one of them.
brows. QOpen 10:00 - 02:00. PJA not all the same. QOpen , Fri, Sat 22:00 - 05:00. PJ €15 (one drink included).

Athens In Your Pocket athens.inyourpocket.com athens.inyourpocket.com August - September 2010


48 Gay athens
Athens is by no means New York, Berlin or Amsterdam when
it comes to homosexuality. It has, however, come a long way
during the last ten years, more though on the entertain-
Saunas
ment side of things rather than on the actual acceptance of Alexander Sauna A4, Megalou Alexandrou 134,
homosexuality. It seems that the gay community of the city Gazi, MKerameikos, tel. (+30) 210 6980282/(+30)
takes a less assertive approach than gay people in other 6936959134, www.alexandersauna.com. A gay
western countries do. This is because Greek society is still meeting point of European standards and great atten-
overarchingly conservative, dominated by the Greek Ortho- tion to hygiene and service. There is a large and cruising
dox Church, which still adamantly opposes the introduction area and a cozy patio and the friendly staff provide high
of same-sex marriages in Greece. As a visitor, though, you quality service. Theme days, events and happenings
tend to be looking to have a good time rather than resolve guarantee endless fun for the summer days and nights.
the hang-ups of Greek society and you won’t find yourself (Mon: Partner Day, Tue: Bears, Wed: Underwear, Thu: Mix
short of a wide array of gay bars and clubs . As for our list, ‘n’ Match, Fri: Explosive, Sat: Infernal and Sun: Cruising
there are many more places frequented by gay and lesbians Spa Fun) QOpen 19:00 - 03:00, Fri-Sun 19:00 - 08:00,
than those who actually call themselves so and can be readily . Admission fee: €15, Happy hour 19:00-19:30: €10.
identified as gay. Here you’ll find a list of some classics but Three visits tourist pass: €35. PJDC
if you’re looking for more diversity you can always head to
the Gazi district and follow the crowds.
Flex Gym E4, Polyklitou 6, MMonastiraki, tel.
Cafés 210 3210539. Gym and sauna under the same roof
in the centre of the city. 3 saunas, 2 jacuzzis, a steam
Blue Train Café Konstantinoupoleos 84, Gazi, MKer- room and 100 sqm gym, will keep you busy for hours.
ameikos, tel. 210 3460677. This is a romantic bar and A new ‘military style’ floor with a relax area just opened
its outdoor tables boast of a hard to beat décor: Real trains last May. They also offer free solarium and internet in a
passing by every so often! Perfect for early drinks but you spotlessly clean environment. QOpen 14:00 - 03:00,
may find yourself still lingering at its tables long after the last weekends 14:00-08:00. Admission fee: €15, Happy hour:
sleeper train has departed to the north. QOpen 20:00 - €10. PJRD
03:00. PJB

Myrovolos C3, Giatrakou 12, Avdi Sq, Metaxourgio,


MMetaxourgio, tel. 210 5228806. A favourite lesbian Noiz A4, Efmolpidon & Konstantinoupoleos, Gazi, MK-
all-day hangout tucked away in a lovely hidden square that erameikos, tel. (+30) 210 3224771, www.noizclub.gr.
gives you the feeling of a small country town. There is food A warm and friendly girls’ bar brought to you by a pioneer
on offer if after a few coffees or drinks you’re having such a team in the gay and lesbian nightlife scene of Athens. The
relaxing time that you’re too lazy to move on. QOpen 11:00 atmosphere is cozy and flirty and you’ll immediately make
- 03:00. PB friends with the welcoming staff and customers. Music is
mixed and there are frequent happenings making this bar a
Bars top nightlife destination. QOpen 10:00 - 04:00. PJ
Big A4, Iera Odos 67 & Falesias, Gazi, MKerameikos,
tel. 6946 282845, www.bigbarathens.gr. Athenian bears Lamda Club F8, Lebesi 15, MAcropolis, tel. 210
found their favourite hang out in this friendly and unassuming 9224202. This gay dance club has been around for long
bar, appropriately located just off Gazi and the model-faced enough to be considered a classic. Ground floor is no dif-
and bodied gay crowds that frequent the district’s bars. Drinks ferent to any other dance club but things can get sizzling
are cheap, the atmosphere is friendly and there are frequent hot in the basement darkroom. Music is mainstream and
events and parties. Every Tuesday is Greek night and every Greek and they hold frequent events like competitions,
Thursday rock QOpen 22:00 - 03:00. Closed Mon. PJ lotteries etc. QOpen 23:30 - 05:00. PJ

My Bar E5, Kakourgiodikiou 6, Psiri, MMonastiraki, S-Cape Army Academy A4, Megalou Alexandrou
139, Gazi, MKerameikos, tel. 210 3411003, www.s-
tel. (+30) 6932 338551, www.mybar.gr. A fine cocktail
cape.gr. A large club with an army theme and a strong
bar outside the gay district of Gazi with minimal decoration,
presence in the gay nightlife scene. It consists of two
reasonably priced drinks, finger food and different music every
separate rooms, an outdoors cocktail lounge open in
night. The crowds are young, trendy and friendly. Look out for
the weekends, and an indoors club where you can dance
their special theme parties QOpen 10:00 - 04:00. PJ
the night away among its young regulars. The music is
mainstream-dance.(Thursdays are Greek nights) QOpen
Clubs 22:00 - 04:00.PJ
Kazarma A3, Konstantinopoleos 84 (1st floor), Gazi,
MKerameikos, tel. (+30) 210 3460667. A small but Sodade A4, Triptolemou 10, Gazi, MKerameikos, tel.
vibrant gay club with a youthful and sexy clientele of all ages 210 3468657. Pretty young faces and pure dance music
and walks of life. The music is mainstream (every Thursday is make this place one of the most popular ‘straight friendly’
Greek night) and as soon as the weather permits its superb clubs in town. Both its rooms are packed during weekends
roof garden becomes one of the top gay meeting points in the and the party doesn’t stop till early morning hours. QOpen
city. QOpen 23:00 - late. Closed Mon, Tue. PJB 23:30 - 06:00. PJ

www.greekgayguide.eu / www.gaygreece.gr
www.athenspride.eu / www.lesbian.gr

Athens In Your Pocket athens.inyourpocket.com


50 What to see What to see 51

Monuments & Archaeological Sites

The Erechtheion on the Acropolis Rock. The Caryatids are replicas of the original ones housed in the new Museum

Acropolis of Athens , MAcropolis, tel. 210 3210219. 6th Century BC, was the site of the Great or City Dionysia
Set in a site covering 30,000 sq.m., the Acropolis of Athens celebrations. Here too was the theatre of Dionysus, one of
is a perfect example of how ancient architecture was adapted the world’s most ancient theatres, where the works of the Ae-
to a natural site to form what has become a model worldwide schylus, Sophocles and Euripides were performed. The same
and down the ages. It was the ancient city’s most important archaeological area is also home to the Odeion of Pericles,
religious centre and its monuments, (the Parthenon, the ancient Athens’ first roofed building for musical contests,
Erechtheion, the Propylaea -the monumental entrance to the the sanctuary of the healing god Asklepius founded in the
Acropolis- and the small Temple of Athena Nike) have become 5th century BC, the Stoa given to the city in 160 B.C. by the
an important symbol of ancient Greece’s bequest to Europe king of Pergamon, Eumenes II, various monuments donated
and the world.The first signs of occupation on the ‘sacred by sponsors of theatrical performances such as the Monu-
Ancient Athens by J Buhlmann rock’ of the Acropolis date back to the Neolithic period (2nd ment of Lysicrates, and the Odeion of Herodus Atticus, built
millennium BC). In Mycenaean times (1200-1100BC) it was in the 2nd century AD. With the predominance of Christianity,
ambitious urban planning projects ever. This has seen the the seat of the king, whose palace stood roughly where the especially during the 5th century AD, many buildings on the
Athens is known the world over for its ancient monuments Erechtheion was built many centuries later. After the 11th South Slope were reconsecrated as Christian monuments.
creation of 3-km long pedestrian walkway-archaeological
- and no visit to the city would be complete without seeing century BC until the end of Antiquity, it was home to the cult The East Slope is dominated by the cave of Aglauros, where
park in the centre of the densely inhabited modern city, with
its most iconic landmark, the Acropolis. Dating back to of Athena, patron goddess of the city that took her name. the Athenian youths (ephebes) took the oath to protect the
whole areas (such as the East, West and North Slopes of
the 5th century BC, the Acropolis is made up of the Par- There, Athena was worshipped at majestic temples, brilliant sanctuaries and sacred institutions of the city. One of the
the Acropolis, the Western Hills and the Library of Hadrian)
thenon, the Erechtheion, the Temple of Athena Nike buildings and a vast number of votive monuments. The most most important monuments of the North Slope is the spring
restored and now open to visitors.
and the Propylaea, and embodies the highest ideals of renowned were built in the second half of the 5th century of Klepsydra, in front of which ran the last section of the
In all, the pedestrianised site covers more than 1,000,000
Ancient Athens - harmony, beauty, proper measure, liberty, BC, when Athens took a lead among the ancient world’s city Panathenaic Way. On this side of the rock there are three cave
sq.m. The project won 3rd prize (Diploma) in the ‘Conser-
knowledge, virtuous competition and democracy. states, following important victories against the Persians sanctuaries dedicated to the cults of Pan, Zeus and Apollo, the
vation of Cultural Landscapes’ category of the annual
The Acropolis and its surrounding area - including the and the establishment of Democracy. In the golden age that cave with the Mycenaean spring, the sanctuary of Aphrodite
European Union Prize for Cultural Heritage/Europa Nostra
Acropolis Slopes, the Ancient Agora, the Areopagus, the followed, thought and art flourished, and an exceptional group and Eros and the Medieval church of Saint Nicolas.
Awards in 2005. The pedestrianised zone formed by
Pnyx and the Hills of the Muses, the Roman Agora and of artists made the ambitious plans of Athenian statesman
Dionysiou Areopagitou and Apostolou Pavlou streets
Library of Hadrian - are at the historical heart of the city.
Walking through them, it doesn’t take too much imagination
hosts cultural events, including an annual summer Book
Fair and art exhibitions. The Theatre of Herodus Atticus
Pericles reality, under the guidance of the sculptor Pheidias.
The most important monuments were built during that time: www.theotheracropolis.com
to picture Ancient Athens as it was back then. The monu- the Parthenon, built by Ictinos (447-432BC), the Erechtheion,
is also an important venue for theatrical, musical and The Acropolis of Athens has been many things other than
ments are intrinsically linked with the birth of Democracy with its shrines to Athena Polias and Poseidon-Erechtheus and
dance performances, giving visitors the opportunity to what we have learned to believe. The collective behind
and they symbolise a precious part of the cultural heritage the porch adorned with the famous Caryatids hand-maidens
experience a unique blend of ancient and modern civilisa- the ‘www.theotheracropolis.com’ project, tries to intro-
of Greece and western civilisation ever since. Those ide- (421-406BC), the Propylaea - the monumental entrance to the
tion. Greeks are rightly proud of their heritage and they are duce us to the different faces, roles and identities of the
als have echoed down through the centuries and can still Acropolis designed by Mnesicles (437-431BC) - and the small
keen to share it with the world, so special consideration sacred rock through the centuries. They want to take our
be heard today. temple of Athena Nike (421-407BC). QOpen 08:30 - 15:00.
is providing visitors with information, with detailed signs, perception of the site away from the stereotypical tourist
The Middle Ages and Ottoman Period, however, were try- Admission: €12, Concessions: €6 (4 day pass).
publications, leaflets, guides and audiovisual material in
ing times for the Acropolis and its surrounding sites. They experience and “undermine the monolithic discourse on
English and Greek. Educational programmes are also avail-
suffered as a result of natural disasters like earthquakes, The Slopes of the Acropolis D6,D7,E7, The 70,000 the Acropolis as an exclusively classical site”.
able to introduce children to Athens’ unique monuments
but more so at the hands of man. Some monuments were sq.m. archaeological site of the Slopes of the Acropolis
and raise awareness of the importance of respecting and
reused as palaces, churches, mosques and residential extends around the Sacred Rock of the Acropolis. After An extremely interesting photo blog worth checking out
protecting the cultural heritage they represent.
areas. But perhaps the greatest damage occurred when the Acropolis itself, the Slopes were the most important before the obligatory visit, especially for those who like
Though Athens is generally not an easy city to get around
an explosion rocked the Acropolis during Morosini’s siege religious centre of ancient Athens. The sanctuary of Dio- to go a bit deeper than the surface.
for people with mobility problems, efforts have been made
in 1687, and (as many Greeks will tell you) as a result of nysus Eleuthereus on the South Slope, established in the
at the Acropolis with an arrangement of pathways with
Lord Elgin’s looting of the marbles (1801-1803). These
ramps at specific locations to enable such visitors to visit
events irreversibly altered the face of the Acropolis more
- or at least view - the most important monuments, and the
than anything else in its long history.
installation of a lift on the North Slope means that disabled
Exploration and excavation of the sites began a few years
visitors can now get a close-up view for the first time.
after the establishment of the Greek state in 1834, and
UNESCO proclaimed the Acropolis site a World Heritage
continued until about the middle of the 20th century.
Monument in 1987. The administration of the sites is
Important restoration programmes are now underway
funded by National Resources, while the majority of the
on several monuments. In 1997, the sites around the
restoration programmes and the project for the Unifica-
Acropolis were included in the project for the ‘Unification of
tion of the archaeological sites surrounding the Acropolis
the Archaeological Sites of Athens’, one of the city’s most
is co-funded by the EU.

Athens In Your Pocket athens.inyourpocket.com athens.inyourpocket.com August - September 2010


52 What to see What to see 53

Hadrian’s Gate The Roman Agora The Parthenon Lysikrates Monument

Parthenon E6, MAcropolis, tel. 210 3214172. Built


between 447-437BC, during the ‘Golden Age’ of Athens
under Pericles, the Parthenon is a world famous sight. Its
design harmoniously combines the Doric and Ionic orders,
and its architectural and structural details and the precision
in the carving of the marble are a testament to the expertise Lysikrates Monument F7, Lysicratous Square and
in the artisans that created it. Further, the décor of the Tripodon St, Plaka, MSyntagma. This monument com-
Parthenon and its surrounding monuments had a profound memorates the support of its benefactor-founder of a the-
and lasting influence on Western art (especially sculpture atrical performance at the nearby theatre of Dionysus, the
The Roman Agora and the Library of Hadrian and portraiture), as it depicted the human form in an individu- earliest theatre in the world - that’s the answer in case you
E5, The 28,000 sq.m. site of the Roman Agora and the alised manner for the first time. These artistic innovations wonder just what that strange structure on Tripodon Street
Library of Hadrian includes the two large Roman monu- fuelled developments that influenced the art of Hellenistic is. It was built in 335BC by Lysicrates and is also known as
Hadrian’s Gate F7, Amalias Ave. Built by Athenians ments north of the Acropolis and east of the Ancient the “Lantern of Diogenes” in reference to its unusual shape.
in honour of the the Roman Governor Hadrian 131AD, the and Roman times, as well as the Renaissance, Baroque,
Agora. The Roman Agora was the centre of commercial Romanticism and Neoclassicism. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00. The circular building rests on a square shaped limestone
gate bears two inscriptions - the first, facing the Acropo- activity of the city during Roman times, while the Library podium and includes a portico of six Corinthian columns. It
lis, reads ‘This is Athens, the ancient city of Theseus’, Admission: €12, Concessions: €6 (four day pass)
of Hadrian housed the state archives and philosophical also has a frieze featuring the life of Dionysos, the god of
and the other, facing the Temple of Olympian Zeus and Academies and was its spiritual, educational and cultural wine and revelry. In 1669, the structure was handed over to
the centre of the Roman city, reads ‘This is the city of
Hadrian and not of Theseus’. The monument attempts
centre. The Roman Agora was constructed by the Roman
emperor Augustus (between 19 and 11 BC) to accom-
Panathenaic Stadium Capucin monks, who used it as a study room. The Lysicrates
monument is the best preserved of its kind, mainly due to
to harmoniously combine architectural elements typical modate the commercial enterprises of the city, with the efforts of French archaeologists Fr. Boulanget and E.
of both Roman (such as the arch) and Greek (colonnades) shops, storerooms and offices. The Library of Hadrian Loviot who restored the area in 1887.
traditions. was built as part of a project to re-design Athens by
Hadrian in 132 AD to house the city’s largest library, the
The Ancient Agora D5, MMonastiraki, Thissio, tel. state archives and philosophical schools. The site also Temple of Olympian Zeus
features monuments such as the Water Clock (Horolo-
210 3210185. The Agora was the heart of the public life of
gion) or Tower of the Winds - with its ornate sculpted Temple of Olympian Zeus F7, Vasilissis Olgas &
the city - its religious, political and commercial centre, where
depictions of wind-gods, wind vanes, sundials and a Amalias, MAcropolis, tel. 210 9226330. Construction
Athenian Democracy was born and flourished. The Agora was
complicated internal water-clock - built around 50BC by of the temple began in the 6th century BC under the tyrants
a large, open square that provided a forum for social and
Macedonian astronomer Andronikos Kyrrhestes, as well Hippias and Hipparchos, at the site of the ruins of an earlier
cultural activity, commercial exchange, religious festivals,
as the Vespasianae (public latrines), the Agoranomeion temple built by their father, the tyrant Peisistratus. The Temple
open-air theatrical performances and athletic contests.
and the Fethiye Mosque (Tzami). North of the Roman
Panathenaic Stadium H7, Arditos Hill, tel. 210
From the 6th century BC, the area was gradually surrounded 3251744. A Stadium existed on this site from as early as the stood unfinished throughout the ‘Golden Century’ of Athens
Agora is the Medrese (Seminary) and to the south the and was only completed by Roman governor Hadrian, known
by public buildings that were rebuilt over the course of some 4th century BC, when it was used for the mystical Ceremonies
Mosque. A section of the Late Roman fortification wall as the ‘Philhellene’, in 132AD. The Temple was huge by ancient
800 years while the Agora remained the centre of Athens. It held for the Panathenaic Festival in honour of Athena, patron-
and a four-apse early Christian can be seen within the standards, rivalling other colossal famous Temples such as
was traversed by the Panathenaic Way and by the West Road. goddess of the City of Athens. Roman governor Hadrian had
Library of Hadrian. the Heraion in Samos, and featured a large gold and ivory
Tradition has it that Europe’s first law court in Europe was on also constructed a Stadium at this site, where gladiatorial
the Areopagus, next to the Ancient Agora. The nearby hill of contests and shows were put on for the Athenian public. The statue of Zeus in its cella. Today, only fifteen of its original
the Pnyx is another unique site, where the meetings of the ancient Stadium was completely restored, as an exact replica 104 columns are still standing. A sixteenth column lies on the
Assembly of the ‘Demos’ (Public Assembly of the Citizens), The Western Hills C6,7, The Western Hills (Hill of the Muses of the Ancient Stadium, in the late 19th century, in order to ground, where it fell during a storm in the 19th century. QOpen
were held. The Ancient Agora and Areopagus site covers an or Philopappus Hill, the Pnyx and the Hill of the Nymphs) site host the first modern Olympiad (1896). During the Athens 08:30 - 20:00. Admission: €2, Free for pass holders.
area of about 400,000 sq.m. northwest of the Acropolis. covers 680,000 sq.m. to the west of the Acropolis. It was an Olympic Games of 2004, this gleaming white Pentelic-marble
Q Open 08:00 - 20:00, Mon Museum opens at 11:00. important and densely inhabited section of the ancient city, with Stadium provided the venue for the archery event as well as for
Admission: €12 (or pass) Concessions: €6 many important road axes. The Pnyx is dominated by the site the culmination of the Marathon Run. The stadium opened its A four day pass costing €12 (concessions €6) will get
where meetings of the Assembly of the Demos, the principal doors again last April. A free audio guide in ten languages gives you in: The Acropolis, the Ancient Agora & museum,
www.parthenonfrieze.gr institution of Athenian Democracy, were held. Philopappus Hill
is crowned by the monument of the same name as well as a
visitors all the information about the history of this landmark
monument. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00. Admission: €3
Kerameikos & museum, the Roman Agora, Acropolis’
North & South Slopes and the Temple of Olympian Zeus.
Hats off to the Ministry of Culture and everyone else modern Observatory. The Philopappus monument is a funer-
involved in this unusual for the Greek public sector hi-tech ary stele erected in 114-116AD by the Athenians in honour
effort. If you are an archaeology buff, just interested or of Caius Julius Antiochus ‘Philopappus’, the exiled prince of
want your kids to spend some pleasant yet useful time Commagene (a kingdom in south-east Asia Minor that had just
online then check out this great interactive application: been conquered by the Roman Empire).This area, mythically
www.parthenonfrieze.gr. You will see details of the connected with the Amazonomachy, was first inhabited during
Parthenon in 3D, take thematic interactive tours, learn the 6th century BC. During the 5th century BC, it was one of the
about the frieze, play games, puzzles etc and download most densely populated parts of ancient Athens including two
interesting brochures with useful information about the well-known ‘demes’ (districts), Melite and Koile. The ancient Koile
monument. road, running from Athens to the port of Piraeus, was a most
important commercial and strategic thoroughfare.

Athens In Your Pocket athens.inyourpocket.com athens.inyourpocket.com August - September 2010


54 What to see What to see 55

his wife Plautillia and a rather handsome portrait of a Barbar-


ian from the 3rd quarter of the 2nd Century AD exhibited in the
Roman period – who knew savages could look so refined? This
section also contains the museum’s most curious exhibits - a
haunting marble face of a woman dating to the 5th/4th Century
BC, with black lines running from her expressive inlaid eyes,
she seems to be crying, while a marble sphere dating to the
3rd/2nd BC carved with magic symbols and icons suggests we
are looking at something that was just as much a mystery to
the ancients as it is to those looking upon it today.

Caryatids from an angle never seen before VK


The Propylaia, Erectheion and Temple of the
Athena Nike, 1st Floor: After the Archaic temple comes
one of the crowning jewels of the Acropolis complex and the
Museum – the famous Caryatids – female sculptures that
acted as columns on the Erectheion temple’s porch. Built on
the site of the geometric period temple to Athena Polias (the
Ancient Temple) which had been destroyed by the Persians, the
Erectheion is known for its irregular design, in part due to the
irregular surface of the rock as well as the need to protect the The magnificent Parthenon Gallery VK
Acropolis view from the Museum’s Parthenon Gallery VK remains of ancient cults, a mark of respect after the Persian-
induced destruction to the Acropolis, something the ancient The Parthenon Gallery, 3rd floor: The Parthenon
different terracotta painting Greeks never forgot. Another special aspect of this display is Gallery is where visitors can truly appreciate the museum
Acropolis Museum Guide techniques used in ancient
Greece, something pottery
that rather than being sealed off in a glass, as was the case in design and its intentions. Built with the precise geometry and
the old Acropolis Museum, the Caryatids can finally be enjoyed dimensions of the Parthenon, one can admire the inner frieze,
The New Acropolis Museum has proven to be a massive buffs will delight in, while the the outer metopes and the crowning pediments while look-
success as was expected. Receiving 90,000 visitors in its in the round, an illustration of the museum’s dedication to bring-
collection of unusual, figurative ing its exhibits to life. This is evident in the temple of Athena ing towards the Parthenon itself, perched atop the Acropolis
opening week alone, the monumental complex buzzes daily vases with three-dimensional hill. Finally, it feels like the pieces have found a home worthy
with the excited chatter of visitors from all over the world, Nike’s frieze exhibit– a scaled arrangement of how the frieze
bodies worked onto the sur- would appear on the temple itself, which most people pass as of their stature, and a walk around this exhibition hall evokes
eager to see the rich collection of artefacts discovered in face are also a hit with visitors. Pieces from the Sanctuary of the magnificence of the mighty structure. Nevertheless, the
and around the ancient Acropolis hill. With light, space and they enter the Acropolis through the Propylaia without a sec-
Dionysus’ temple frieze reveal magnificent workmanship that ond glance. A number of reliefs are also on display, taken from spectacular exhibition space invokes mixed feelings. Many of
angular lines, the museum design and its perfect view of expertly transformed dense marble into flowing fabrics draped the displayed pieces are replicas of fragments housed mainly
the Acropolis, honours the history of this ancient site and its the Nike temple’s balustrade, the Sandal-binding Nike being a
over dancing women. Theatrical masks and a statue of Old glorious example of superb relief-carving, with luscious fabrics in the British Museum, though the conspicuous gaps in the
treasures. It is divided into historically-defined sections that Silenus carrying a young Dionysus on his shoulders allows gallery make the frieze found behind the west pediment appear
put the ancient site into context: draped over an even more lusciously carved out body.
one to go back in time to see what a temple to an enigmatic all the more miraculous – bar one missing piece, this section is
and flamboyant god would have looked like. 5th Century BC. – 5th Cen- made up entirely of fragments belonging to the museum. The
The Ancient Neighbour- tury AD, 1st floor: Repre- shame in the situation is unavoidable, particularly when most
hood: Built on the remains The Archaic Gallery, 1st senting periods in the Acropolis’ of the breathtaking pediment sculptures - especially on the
of an Athenian neighbour- Floor: The Archaic Gallery history from the Hellenistic pe- west pediment - are plaster casts. However, the cast makers’
hood, the remnants of streets, paints a vibrant picture of Ath- riod, the Roman period, and the excellent work, is also apparent in the expert reconstruction of
houses, workshops and baths ens and the Acropolis before advent of Christianity, classical the floral akroterion that once crowned the Parthenon’s east
are clearly visible through the the refinement of the Classical art lovers will admire the face of pediment. Indeed, regardless of the debate, the work that has
transparent floors and view- era, expressed in the Archaic the cult statue of Artemis Brau- gone into the museum is unquestionable, something eloquently
ing areas at the entrance to Parthenon’s pediment that ronia by Praxiteles, one of the
the museum. Walking into the dominates the gallery’s entrance. A stark contrast to the most celebrated attic sculptors of
museum, the neighbourhood highly-classical figures of the Parthenon, the archaic style is the 4th Century BC. In fact, faces
continues below, a reminder exemplified in the size and scope of its centrepiece - a mag- are the real winner in this section, Acropolis Museum E7 Dionysiou Areopagitou 15,
of the history that lies beneath nificent sculpture depicting two gargantuan lions devouring a with a collection of portrait busts MAcropoli, tel. 210 9000901, info@theacropolismu-
one of the world’s most histori- bull. Those archaic sculptors certainly had a talent for depicting allowing visitors to gaze into the seum.gr, www.theacropolismuseum.grQOpen 08:00
cal cities. animals – seek out the hunting dog if you aren’t convinced. intricately carved faces of histori- - 20:00, Closed Mon, Admission fee: €5. We recommend
Then, after animals come statues of women – lots of them. cal figures such as a young Alexander the Great, as well as you reserve tickets on-line in order to avoid queues.
The Gallery of the Slopes of the Acropolis: Provides Reflective of the worship of a female deity, some 200 ‘Korai’ Lucius Verrus, Agrippina the Younger, Emperor Caracalla,
an insight into the ancient Athenian daily life, with display cases were discovered on the Acropolis, many with the traces of the
lining an ascending ramp that mirrors the slope leading to the original paint that decorated the expertly carved fabric chitons
Acropolis. Keep your eyes down – a collection of ceramic bowls, clothing their stylistic (and voluptuous) bodies. Nearby, the
wine glasses and plates discovered buried in the floor of a house pediment of the Ancient Temple - which replaced the old
dating to the 3rd Century BC are encased in the museum floor geometric temple (close to the site of the Parthenon) around
at the gallery’s entrance. Amongst the artefacts from house- the time of the abolishment of tyranny in 508/507 BC – tells
holds, what really puts things into perspective are unfinished the story of the Gigantomachy, the war between the gods and
statues and clay moulds – a touch of reality behind the mythical rebelling giants. A warlike Athena is shown with her cloak made
figurines of ancient times. Votive offerings of ‘loutrophorai’, of snakes, though the real triumph here is the work that went
or vessels that carry bathwater to the nuptial bath, taken from into restoration efforts – the plaster casts that complete the
the sanctuary of the Nymphs give a complete overview of the statues are second to none.

Athens In Your Pocket athens.inyourpocket.com athens.inyourpocket.com August - September 2010


56 What to see What to see 57

Archaeological Museum Other Museums Herakleidon-Experience in Visual Arts C5, Heraklei-


don 16, MThissio, tel. 210 3461981, fax 210 3458225,
Battleship Averoff Marina Flisvos, Trokadero, tel. 210 info@herakleidon-art.gr, www.herakleidon-art.gr. This
9888211, info@bsaverof.com, www.bsaverof.com. excellent private Museum is housed in an attractive listed
This late 19th century battleship has today been converted neoclassical building in the busy heart of the trendy Thissio

Collection Herakleidon Museum


into a Naval Museum, showcasing the history of the Greek district. It regularly houses periodic visual arts exhibitions
Navy and honouring the servicemen who died during naval focusing on the work of important twentieth century artists,
engagements during its time of service, the first half of the such as M.C. Escher and V. Vasarely. Don’t leave without a visit
twentieth century. QOpen , Mon, Wed, Fri 09:00 - 13:00 & to the giftshop. QOpen 13:00 - 21:00, Sun 11:00 - 19:00.
18:00-20:00, Tue, Thu 09:00 - 13:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 14:00 Closed Mon. Admission fee: €6, concessions: €4.
& 18:00-20:00.
Ilias Lalaounis Jewelry Museum E7, Karyatidon
Benaki Museum H5, Koubari 1 & Vasilissis Sofias, & Kalisperi, MAcropolis, tel. 210 9221044, fax 210
MSyntagma, tel. 210 3671000, fax 210 3671063, 9237358, info@lalaounis-jewelrymuseum.gr, www. NEW EXHIBITION
benaki@benaki.gr, www.benaki.gr. Housed in a beautiful lalaounis-jewelrymuseum.gr. This is a private non-profit

Three Graces / Dame Laura Knight / 1926, etching and drypoint on paper /
neoclassical building, this reputable private Museum houses foundation devoted to the historical development of the from 3/9/2010
a vast collection of finds from Prehistoric down to early twen- art of jewelry. It is located at the foot of the Acropolis, in a
tieth century Greece. It regularly hosts periodic thematic picturesque neoclassical building. Its permanent collection
National Archaeological Museum Patision (28th exhibitions that are generally highly regarded and attract comprises more than 4000 items of jewelry, designed by its

Woman as Muse
October) 44, MVictoria, tel. 210 8217724, fax 210 large numbers of visitors. Its permanent collection is vast - founder Ilias Lalaounis (1940-2000). Many items in its collec-
8213573, eam@culture.gr. The National Archaeologi- indeed, this is simultaneously an Archaeological, Byzantine tion have been inspired by the art of ancient and Byzantine
cal Museum is set in a characteristic hefty neoclassical and Folk Culture Museum - yet also very instructive, thanks Greece, Europe, America and Asia, as well as from nature and
building, designed by L. Lange and remodelled by P. Kalkos, to the well-organised exhibition structure. The café-restaurant from scientific discourse. It also provides educational facili-
H. Vlachos and E. Ziller (built 1866-1889), housing a extends to the roof-terrace and offers uninterrupted views of ties such as a library and jewelry-making workshop, as well
unique, recently refurbished, collection of ancient Greek
art and artefacts. Its more than 20,000 exhibits show-
case the development of Greek civilisation from Prehistory
the Acropolis and Lycabettus Hill. The Museum shop also
provides an on-line sales service via the Internet. QOpen
09:00 - 17:00, Thu 09:00 - 24:00, Sun 09:00 - 15:00. Closed
as seminars designed for students. QOpen 09:00 - 16:00,
Wed 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Tue. Admission
fee: €4, concessions: 2,30 €Free admission for members and
1900 - 1950
down to the late Roman era. There are vast collections Tue. Admission fee: €6. children under 10Free admission on Wednesdays after 15.00
of finds from the Neolithic, Bronze Age, Cycladic and & Saturday 9.00 - 11.00.
Mycenaean periods (Prehistoric Collection) including: Byzantine and Christian Museum Vasilissis Sofias
the famous gold mask attributed to Agamemnon, finds 22, tel. 210 7232178. Set in a beautiful building, surrounded Islamic Art Museum C4, Ag. Asomaton 22 & Dipilou
from the prehistoric settlement on the island of Thera by a serene courtyard -a leisurely outdoor stroll is a must- this 12, MThissio, tel. 210 3251311, fax 210 3225550,
(Santorini) - including wonderfully preserved colourful Museum offers visitors the opportunity to explore the way islamic_collection@benaki.gr, www.benaki.gr. This
wall-murals; the Sculpture Collection (7th-5th centu- of life, art, religious practices and customs of the Byzantine recently opened annex of the Benaki Museum, housed in an
ries BC) showcasing many internationally-acclaimed and Medieval periods in Greece. It is especially instructive elegant neoclassical building complex in the historic heart
masterpieces of the genre, some of which attributed as regards the intricate interconnections underlying the of Athens, near the ancient Kerameikos cemetery, displays
to Praxiteles’ workshop, the Near Eastern Antiquities symbolisms of the pagan -ancient- and early Christian periods, a fine collection of Islamic art from the Near East, Middle
Collection; as well as the Metallurgy and Vase & Minor revealing lesser-known facets of this transition. The Museum East, Far East and North Africa, from the 12th to the 19th THE COMPLETE SCULPTURES OF
Objects Collections. also houses a very important collection of Byzantine and post- centuries. It presents the evolution of Islamic art in relation

Two of its newest exhibits include a 4th century BC gold


Byzantine icons and frescoes. A gift shop is available. QOpen
08:30 - 15:00. Closed Mon. Admission fee: €4.
to the historic development of Islamic civilisation. QOpen
09:00 - 15:00, Wed 09:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon. Admission
EDGAR DEGAS
funerary wreath and a 6th century BC marble statue of fee: €5, concessions: €3.
a young woman, returned to Greece in 2007 by the Getty Epigraphical Museum F1, Tositsa 1, MOmonia,
Museum in California and conspicuously displayed. Victoria, tel. 210 8232950, fax 210 8225733, ema@ Jewish Museum F6, Nikis 39, MSyntagma, tel. 210
Another major highlight is its renowned Egyptian Collec- culture.gr. This Museum houses the leading collection of 3225582, fax 210 3231577, info@jewishmuseum.gr,
tion, 1,100 priceless items of which were recently put ancient Greek inscriptions and it is the largest of its kind in www.jewishmuseum.gr. This is a historical and ethno-

© ‘‘The Degas Sculpture Project LTD’’


on permanent exhibition following years in the Museum’s the world. Decrees, tribute lists, records, all have their place graphic Museum that aims to preserve, explore and present

Photography: Joseph Coscia, Jr.


vast underground storage areas. Considered one of the in this interesting archival Museum. It is housed in the south the material evidence related to the historic Jewish community
foremost Egyptian collections worldwide, its star items wing ground floor of the National Archaeological Museum. It in Greece. It holds more than 8000 artefacts showcasing the
include a wooden body tag for a mummy, the bronze comprises an internal and external courtyard (atrium), a lobby, secular and religious history and way of life of Jews in Greece.
statue of Princess-Priestess Takushit (c. 670BC) adorned eleven rooms, a large hypostyle corridor, a gallery, offices and a A giftshop is also available. QOpen 09:00 - 14:30, Sun 10:00
with a gown strewn with hieroglyphs, a 3,000-year-old laboratory for the conservation of inscribed stone monuments. - 14:00. Closed Sat. Admission fee: €5, concessions €3.
preserved loaf of bread (with a bite-sized chunk miss- QOpen 08:30 - 15:00. Closed Mon. Free admission.
ing!) and other intact organic materials, as well as a Kerameikos Museum B4, Ermou 148, MThissio, tel. UNTIL AUGUST 14 th 2 0 1 0
rare bronze miniature figurine depicting an African boy Goulandris Museum of Cycladic and Ancient 210 3463552. Displays the important archaeological finds
at a street market. The Stathatos Collection was also Greek Art Neophytou Douka 4, MSyntagma, tel. 210 unearthed at the adjacent ancient Kerameikos cemetery,
recently brought up from storage and put on display, 7228321 - 3, fax 210 7239382, info@cycladic-m.gr, such as funeral urns, funerary monuments (‘stelai’) and pot- Museum
mainly showcasing ancient jewellery. www.cycladic-m.gr/. This small Museum is housed both tery items, aptly illustrating the funerary customs of ancient
in an appealing modern building as well as in a stunningly Athenian society. There are a number of impressive pottery
There are plans for the future underground expansion of beautiful neoclassical edifice and includes one of the best and items and funerary monuments in its collection. QOpen
the Museum’s permanent exhibition spaces, but these most representative collections of Cycladic art worldwide (from 08:00 - 19:00, Mon 11:00 - 19:00. Admission fee: €2, conces-
are not expected to materialise any time soon. It also the Cycladic group of islands in the Aegean, third millennium sions:€1, students, under 19 yrs: free.
periodically houses temporary exhibitions. Its amenities BC), as well as a smaller selection of Bronze Age, Minoan, Herakleidon 16 (close to Apostolou Pavlou Str.)
include a coffee-shop/restaurant in the pleasant atrium Mycenaean, Geometric, Archaic, Classical and Hellenistic Thissio, Athens 118 51 • Metro: Thissio
in the basement area, Museum shop, conference facilities items, including very well-preserved black-figure pottery. It Tel.: 210 3461981

www.culture.gr
and modern conservation workshops. also regularly hosts interesting periodic exhibitions. Ameni- www.herakleidon.com / info@herakleidon-art.gr
ties include a children’s area, Museum shop and agreeable
Museum hours:
QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Mon 13:30-20:00 Admission fee café-restaurant in the cozy atrium. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00,
Tues.-Sat. 13:00-21:00, Sun. 11:00-19:00, Monday Closed
€7, concessions €3. Thu 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Tue. Admission
fee: €5, Saturdays: €2.5, 18-26: €1.

Athens In Your Pocket athens.inyourpocket.com athens.inyourpocket.com August - September 2010


58 What to see What to see 59

Museum of the City of Athens / Vouros-Eutaxias companies. The Museum Shop is well worth a visit if you’re
War Museum Foundation F4, Paparrigopoulou 5-7, MPanepistimio, looking for original and creative -though a tad expensive- gift The Art Foundation (TAF)
tel. 210 3231397, fax 210 3220765, http://www.ath- ideas, while the café-restaurant on the ground floor serves
enscitymuseum.gr/. This Museum, inaugurated in 1973 a good selection of dishes and lovely freshly-made salads.
by benefactors Lambros Eutaxias and his uncle Alexandros QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 22:00. Closed Mon,
Vouros, is housed in the stately mansion that was the resi- Tue.
dence of Otto, the first King of Athens and his wife Amalia,
from 1837 up to 1843, and its first floor is dedicated to their Numismatic Museum G4, Panepistimiou 12, MSyn-
memory. It seeks to present the modern history of the city tagma, tel. 210 3643774, fax 210 3635953, protocol@
of Athens, since it became capital of the nascent Hellenic nm.culture.gr, www.nma.gr. Its exhibits include more than
State in 1834, up to the present day. Among its collections 600,000 coins spanning a period from antiquity to the early
are works of art, items of furniture and household objects, as modern era. It is housed in the mansion of Heinrich Schli-
well as complete reconstructions of typical late 19th - early emann, discoverer of the Mycenaean treasure, which was
20th century living and sitting rooms of the Athenian aristo- designed by the famous architect Ernst Chiller during the late
cratic elite. QOpen 09:00 - 16:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 15:00. 19th century. Its amenities include conservation laboratories,
Closed Tue. Admission fee: €3, Concessions: €2. a well-equipped library, a hall that houses temporary exhibi-
War Museum I5, Rizari 2, MEvangelismos. Dedi- tions and a Museum shop. QOpen 08:30 - 15:00. Closed
cated to the history and practice of warfare, it holds an Museum of Traditional Musical Instruments E6, Mon. Admission fee: €3, concessions: €2.
important collection of war memorabilia from the Myce- Diogenous 1-3, Plaka, MAcropolis, tel. 210 3254119,
naean Period up to present-day Greece, with special focus fax 210 3250198. Housed in a simple neoclassical three- Postal and Philatelic Museum H7, Stadiou Square
on the Second World War, the War in Korea and the Cyprus storey building in a serene quarter of Plaka, this Museum 5 (Panathenaic Stadium), tel. 210 7519042, fax 210
War. The architecture of the building itself is very original, houses one of the foremost collections of traditional musical 7519279, postmuseum@elta-net.gr, http://www.
as it is one of the most representative examples of the instruments in Europe. Exhibits are accompanied by sound postalmuseum.gr/. Stamp lovers and collectors should not
avant-garde architectural movement in Athens during recordings, allowing you to experience the sound of each miss a visit to this Museum. Among its star exhibits are the
the 1950s. The historical fighter planes at the entrance instrument, as well as its musical combination with other printing plates of the first stamp in Greece, as well a collection
are also worth seeing. QOpen 09;00 - 14:00. Closed instruments. Information is provided on how the instruments of the first stamps in history to be connected with the Olympic
Mon. Free admission. are created. There is a large library for dedicated scholars in Games (namely, with the 1896 first modern Olympics that
the adjacent Research Centre for Ethnomusicology. Musical were held in Athens, at the adjacent Panathenaic Stadium).
recitals are sometimes held in the garden. A giftshop selling Its interesting exhibits narrate the postal and philatelic history
Museum of Contemporary Art Fratzi 14 (man- traditional music CDs and musical instruments is also avail- of modern Greece. There is a gift shop that sells stamps and
The Art Foundation D5, Normanou 5, MMonasti-
agement), tel. 210 9242111-2, fax 210 9245200, able. QOpen 10:00 - 14:00, Wed 12:00 - 18:00. Closed other collectors’ items. QOpen 08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sat,
raki, tel. (+30) 210 3238757, (+30) 6988391684,
protocol@emst.gr. (as yet not housed at a permanent Mon. Free admission. Sun. Free admission.
www.theartfoundation.gr
address -the building was originally due for completion by
The Art Foundation, affectionately known as TAF, was
the end of 2009- but exhibitions take place in an array of National Glyptotheque Militar y Park, Goudi, Railway Museum Siokou 4, Sepolia, tel. 210 5246580. founded in 2008, inside a building that dates back to
various establishments as circumstances permit, mainly MKatechaki, tel. 210 7709855. This recently opened A haven for the railways aficionados, here you can feast your
1870 in parts. A classic design of the 19th Century
at the New Wing of the Athens Concert Hall).The Museum annex of the National Gallery holds its important Sculpture eyes on historic 19th century steam locomotives, historic
neo-classical style, the building hosts a magnificent,
of Contemporary Art, since it begun operating in 2000 Collection, including works by acclaimed Greek and inter- tram trains, as well as unique exhibits such as the royal car
large internal courtyard that is walled by 140 sqm of
-albeit its as yet nomadic existence- has organised some national artists of the 19th and 20th centuries. Interesting of King George I of Greece, or a wagon (the smoking carriage)
gallery space, with two additional buildings providing
very successful exhibitions, that have remained true to temporary exhibitions are frequently organised. QOpen that was part of the Sultan train of the Ottoman Empire. Also
four studios and deck with eight more. The renovated
its mission to showcase the transcultural, experimental/ 09:00 - 15:00, Sun 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Tue. Admission on display are related railway paraphernalia, such as tickets,
space is enough reason to visit.
exploratory and thought-provoking aspects of contemporary fee: €6, Concessions: €3. instruments and mechanics’ tools, as well as models and
international art. historic photographic archives. Bus 024 from Syntagma sq
At the same time, the work and dedication obviously
National Historical Museum F4, Stadiou 13, (Praktoreia stop) QOpen 9:00 - 13:00, Wed 9:00 - 13:00 &
required to have realised a vision to unite the past with
Museum of Greek Folk Art F6, Kydathinaion 17, MSyntagma, tel. 210 3237617. Housed in the imposing 17:00-20:00. Closed Mon. Free admission.
the present through the restoration of the structure
Plaka, MSyntagma, tel. 210 3229031, fax 210 historical building that was Greece’s first House of Parlia-
reflects the passion TAF has for the arts, and their pro-
3226979, melt@melt.culture.gr. From the 17th century to ment, this Museum tells the story of Greece since the fall Spyros Vassiliou Museum D7, Webster 5, MA- motion. The foundation nurtures collaboration between
the present, this Museum preserves, records, exhibits and of the Byzantine Empire in 1453, with special focus on the cropolis, tel. 210 9231502, fax 210 922 0193, atelier@
artists, curators and institutions through a constantly
presents the history and evolution of Greek folk art. Among War of Independence (1821-1829), through to the mid 19th spyrosvassiliou.org, www.spyrosvassiliou.org. A small
developing program of exhibitions that embrace young
its exhibits are embroidery, weaving, traditional costumes, century. The commanding statue of Theodoros Kolokotro- museum near the Acropolis dedicated to the life and work of
artists from Greece and abroad. The emphasis on solo
household items (such as the intricate ‘stamps’ used for nis, among the leaders of the Greek War of Independence, Greek artist Spyros Vassiliou. Paintings, woodcuts, posters
and group shows curated with topical sensitivity and a
embossing and decorating bread during traditional festivals), proudly greets visitors to the Museum. Among its invaluable and illustrations for book covers and records are among the
strong thematic premise creates a conceptual space
shadow-theatre puppets (the famous ‘Karaghiozis’), as well exhibits are archival records, photographs, costumes, flags, works on display. QOpen , Tue, Thu, Fri, Sat, Sun 10:00 -
where the viewer is exposed to an array of young art-
as silver, wood and stone carvings. QOpen 10:00 - 14:00. paintings, religious icons, royal portraits and weapons. A 16:00, Wed 12:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon.
ists working today.
Closed Mon. Admission fee: €2, consessions: €1. giftshop is available. QOpen 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon.
The National Gallery J5, Michalakopoulou 1, MEvan- Based on a premise that focuses on creating concep-
Museum of the Ancient Agora D5, Adrianou 24, New Benaki Museum A5, Pireos 138, MKerameikos, gelismos, tel. 210 7235857, fax 210 7224889, www.
tual and creative dialogue between art and the public,
MThissio, tel. 210 3210185. Housed in the renovated tel. 210 3453111, www.benaki.gr. This recently opened nationalgallery.gr. Housing a collection of Greek art from
TAF nurtures a social aura further amplified by the
‘Stoa of Attalos’ (dating to 150BC) within the archaeological annex to the Benaki Museum is situated in an ex-industrial the sixteenth century to the present, mainly spanning the
crowded courtyard bar during unmissable opening
site of the Ancient Agora, it is a veritable Museum of the and underprivileged strip spanning Piraeus Str and extend- nineteenth and twentieth centuries, it includes some works
nights that fully utilise the courtyard bar as a space
History of Democracy, showcasing items linked with the ing to the Gazi area, which is fast transforming itself into a by Dominicos Theotocopoulos (El Greco), as well as works by
for discussion. A series of theatrical performances, live
development of Athenian public and commercial life, civic veritable hub of experimental and avant-garde artistic activ- seminal Greek artists such as Theophilos, Nikiforos Lytras,
music shows and experimental performances, as well
emancipation and democratic institutions, from antiquity ity. Housed in a tasteful building that gracefully combines Nikolaos Gyzis, Georgios Iakovidis, Nikolaos Kounelakis, Niko-
as a variety of other creative endeavours, further add
up until the birth of the modern Greek State. There are simplicity and an imposing aspect and provides a most laos Chatzikyriakos-Ghikas, Yiannis Tsarouchis, Yiannis Mora-
to a holistic atmosphere of creativity. Only two years
a number of world-acclaimed ceramic items and statues welcome contrast to its rather neglected surroundings, lis, Nikos Eggonopoulos and Alekos Fassianos. The Gallery
old and already an established space, things can only
among its collections, such as the colossal statue of Apollon this Museum is well worth a visit if you wish to take in what frequently organises interesting temporary exhibitions. It also
get more creative.
Patroos (c. 330BC). The models of the Ancient Agora (com- Athens has to offer as far as modern and contemporary art houses conservation laboratories and a library, while plans
mercial centre), Acropolis and Pnyx (public meeting area) are exhibitions are concerned. As well as its regularly alternating for its expansion are underway, with no concrete timeframe
very illuminating as regards the city’s ancient topography. temporary exhibitions, it also periodically hosts alternative announced as yet. QOpen 09:00 - 15:00, Sun 10:00 - 14:00.
QOpen 13:00 - 24:00, Free admission.
QOpen 08:00 - 16:45, Mon 11:00 - 16:45. Admission fee: drama performances by independent unconventional theatre Closed Tue. Admission fee: €6.5, concessions: €3.
€4, concessions: €2.

Athens In Your Pocket athens.inyourpocket.com athens.inyourpocket.com August - September 2010


60 What to see What to see 61

the forecourt of the build- Observatory C6, Hill of Tzisdarakis Mosque E5, Monastiraki Square, MMona-
Historic Buildings ing. The Tomb is guarded the Nymphs, MThissio. stiraki. Overlooking Monastiraki Square, this was a historic
by the Presidential Guard This historic Observatory, Ottoman mosque constructed during the governorship of the
Arsakeion Megaron F3, Panepistimiou 47, MPanepis- (‘Evzones’) in traditional the first of its kind in Greece ‘voivode’ Tzisdarakis in Athens, in 1759. It now houses the
timio. Built by renowned 19th century architect Lysandros dress, whose intricately and the Balkans, was de- Museum of Greek Ceramic Art, while its Minaret has been
Kaftantzoglou, this imposing building is among the finest ex- orchestrated changing of signed by renowned archi- removed.
amples of modern Athenian architecture and hosts the Council the guard at the turn of the tect Theophile Hansen and
of State High Court. Adjacent to the Arsakeion is the pleasant hour attracts many visitors, was inaugurated in 1842. It Zappeion G6, Amalias &
Books’ Arcade, an ideal book-lovers’ haunt and anyone avid for who also take the opportu- has a unique cross-shaped Vas Olgas, MSyntagma.
a shelter during a rainy day. nity to feed the ubiquitous structure, that points to Built in 1874-1878 by ar-
flocks of pigeons. QOpen the four points of the hori- chitect von Hansen, on the
Athens City Hall Kotzia , Sat, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. zon, while its resplendent order of Greek-Romanian
Square, MOmonia. An im- Free admission. golden dome can be seen gleaming in the Athens sky from national benefactors and
pressive neoclassical building quite a distance. cousins Zappas, this lofty
situated in a breathtaking Church of Aghioi Theodoroi F4, Aristeidou & Euripidou neoclassical structure origi-
cobblestone square, bris- St, MPanepistimio. Yet another structure built over the ruins Old House of Parlia- nally housed an exhibition
tling with pleasant cafés and of a much earlier temple. This was common practice during ment F4, Stadiou 13, hall. Surrounded by beauti-
busy shopping centres (the Byzantine ages, in an attempt to wipe out idolatry. And what MSyntagma. It was the ful gardens, that include a
picturesque Central Athens less costly method than appropriating the very materials the first residence of King Otto, pleasant coffee-shop and restaurant, as well as an array of
open-air meat market is right ancient building was made of, for “holy purposes”! According to while he awaited completion interesting sculptures, it is now used for international confer-
down the street). The square the inscription found on the west wall, this church dates back of the Royal Palace (now ences, commercial events, as well as for European heads of
also functions as an open-air to 1065 AD. The last known restoration was in 1840, following House of Parliament) and State meetings.
antiquities Museum and is damages it incurred during the Greek War of Independence. subsequently housed the
surrounded by beautiful neoclassical buildings from the turn of
the century (such as the National Bank or ‘Karatza Megaron’).
This is a cross-in-square construction, with 3 apses on the
east side. As is the case with most churches in Greece, the bell
Greek Parliament between
1843-1854 and 1875 -
Cemeteries
The City Hall also houses a valuable art collection. tower was added later. As for the imposing wall paintings, they 1932. In front of the building Commonwealth war
date to the 19th century. there stands an imposing equestrian bronze statue of General cemetery Poseidonos
Athens Metropolitan Cathedral Mitropoleos Sq, Theodoros Kolokotronis, among the leaders of the Greek War of Av, Alimos. 2,028 Com-
MMonastiraki, Syntagma. Completed in 1862 after 20 years Church of Panaghia Independence. Today, this stately neoclassical building houses monwealth servicemen of
of construction (the first stone was laid by King Otto and Queen Kapnikarea E5, Ermou the National Historical Museum (see museums). the Second World War are
Amalia), this large three-aisled domed basilica was consecrated & Kapnikareas St, MSyn- buried or commemorated
to the Annunciation of the Virgin Mary. Inside are the tombs of tagma, Monastiraki. Built Presidential Palace in this cemetery. 596 of
two Orthodox saints. In its pleasant courtyard there are the as usual on the ruins of an and Megaron Maxi- the burials are unidentified
statues of the last Byzantine Emperor (Saint Constantine XI ancient temple, which was mou H6, Irodou Attikou and there are also 74 men
‘the Martyr’) and a former Archbishop of Athens. It is currently dedicated to goddess Athe- Street, MSyntagma. The of the army of undivided India who died during the campaigns in
undergoing restoration, so large parts are not visible under na or Demeter, this miniscule imposing Presidential Palace, Greece and Crete during the Second World War. In the north-east
the scaffolding. church is commonly known which was formerly a Royal corner of the cemetery, a plot contains the graves of servicemen
as Kapnikarea. It is usually Residence, now hosts the and civilians who after serving in the Crimean War, died in Greece.
Athens Stock Exchange Sofokleous 10, MOmonia. Built surrounded by hundreds of Republic’s Presidency and is A Memorial within Phaleron War Cemetery commemorates nearly
in 1934 to host the nomadic stock market of those days, it is an people, either waiting for guarded by ‘evzones’ (Presi- 3,000 members of the land forces of the Commonwealth who
imposing neoclassical building that is well worth a detour from someone or having their portrait drawn and even having a dential Guards in traditional lost their lives during the campaigns in Greece and Crete in 1941
Kotzia Square. There is no activity in the building these days as breather in between shopping. In a poll, it would probably be costume). It was designed and 1944-1945, in the Dodecanese Islands in 1943-1945 and
trading went electronic a few years ago and the management voted the best loved church in Athens. As for its background, it by renowned architect Ernst in Yugoslavia in 1943-1945, and who have no known grave.
moved to a new building in 2007. Don’t miss the innovative was erected around 1050AD, but the small porch with the two Ziller in the 1870s. Nearby is the attractive neoclassical Megaron Tram stop: Pikrodafni
glass display on the ground, which exhibits a section of the columns was built closer to the end of the 12th century. It is Maximou, which functions as the Prime Minister’s office. Admis-
Ancient Athenian wall. cross-in-square shaped, with three apses on the east side and sion by invitation only. First cemetry of Athens
a narthex on the west. A chapel, dedicated to Aghia Varvara, G8, Anapafseos and Trivoni-
Bank Of Greece F4, was later added to the north side. As for the interior, which is Turkish Baths E6, anou, Mets, MAcropolis.
Panepistimiou 21, open to the public, there are paintings signed in 1955 by Greek Kyristou 8, Plaka, MSyn- Most famous Greeks are bur-
MPanepistimio, w w w. artist Photis Kontoglou. tagma. This is among one ied here. It is a museum in its
bankof gr e ece.gr. T h e of the very few surviving own right with every kind of
headquarters of the Central National Library - Ath- remnants of the Ottoman monument and ornamental
Bank of Greece. The building ens Academy - Athens period in Greece and the patterns, marble sculptures,
was designed by architects University F4, Panepisti- sole surviving traditional columns, sarcophagi and neo-
K. Papadakis and N. Zoum- miou 28-32, MPanepisti- bathhouse in Ath ens. classical temples, conveying the memorial art that flourished
poulidis and its foundations mio. These striking neo- This interesting 17th cen- during the 19th century along the rebirth of the new Greek
were laid in 1933. The official classical buildings were built tury bathhouse is open to state. (It was founded around 1837, when Athens was also
inauguration took place in 1938, under Governor Emmanouil by the Hansen brothers of visitors. QOpen 10:00 established as the capital city of the modern Greek state
Tsouderos. Copenhagen. The National - 14:30. Closed Mon. (1834). It spreads on the slope of the Ardittos hill, close to the
Library is reached via an Panathinaiko Stadium.
House of Parliament (Vouli) G5, Syntagma Square, impressive sculpted marble
MSyntagma, tel. 210 3707000, fax 210 3692170, info@ staircase, while the Athens
parliament.gr, www.parliament.gr. Overlooking Syntagma Academy is flanked by imposing statues of Apollo and Athena on
Square, it was originally the Royal Palace of King Otto and Queen either side, while the impressive frescoes at its entrance depict
Amalia, the first monarchs of Greece. Designed in the neoclas- the myth of Prometheus.
sical style by Friedrich von Gartner, the palace was completed
in 1843. It was used as the Royal Residence until 1924 and, National Theatre D2, Ag. Konstantinou 22, MOmonia.
since 1934, has housed the Greek Parliament. The Tomb of Housed in an impressive neoclassical building, with a grand
the Unknown Soldier, a monument in honour of the servicemen colonnaded façade and beautiful interior, it is the foremost
who fell in the struggle for Greek Independence, is located in establishment of the National Theatre of Greece.

Athens In Your Pocket athens.inyourpocket.com athens.inyourpocket.com August - September 2010


62 What to see What to see 63

Children’s Athens Open air cinemas Sundays in Athens


Allou Fun Park Kifissou & Petrou Ralli Junction, tions of an interactive character, including state-of-the-art
Rentis, tel. 210 4256990, www.allou.gr. Entertain- technological applications.
ment Park covering about 40,000 square metres. The The Foundation also hosts the ‘Tholos’, a dome-shaped
Park includes an extensive array of amusement rides, virtual-reality theatre, currently showing an interactive tour
an ‘Adrenaline Zone’, the ‘Shock Tower’: a 40m free fall of the Ancient Athenian Agora. The Foundation includes a
experience and the largest observation wheel in Greece. conventional theatre, a café, internet-access area and gift-
‘Kidom’ is the adjacent fairytale park designed for younger shop. Highly recommended if you are looking for a high-tech
children, complete with a pirate ship, carousel, trampolines, educational experience for the whole family and want to
and climbing towers. Bus no: B18 and trolleybus 21 from rediscover the little explorer in you. (Bus line 049 Omonia-
Omonia. A taxi will cost €6-8 from the centre of Athens. Piraeus, Bus-stop: Viochalko) QOpen 09:00 - 16:00, Wed
QOpen 17:00 - 01:00, Fri 17:00 - 02:00, Sat 10:00 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat. Admission
- 02:00, Sun 10:00 - 01:00. Admission: Free (A fee is fee: €4-6, Tholos: €10. Don't miss the opportunity to spend an evening in true
charged for using the rides & games). Kidom is open until Athenian summer style at one of the many open-air cinemas
00:00 daily Hellenic Children’s Museum Kidathineon 14, that open throughout the capital when the weather gets
Plaka, MSyntagma, tel. 210 3312995, fax 210 warm. Most are small gardens in their own right, with
Attica Zoological Park Yalou, Spata, tel. 210 3312996, info@hcm.gr, www.hcm.gr. This is a small jasmine trees and bougainvilleas all around, a real treat for
6634724, fax 210 6634726, zoo@atticapark.gr, haven for children aged up to 12 years old, with multifaceted sultry summer nights. Together with your chosen movie,
you can enjoy food, drinks and -of course- cigarettes, Unlike some European capitals where Sundays don’t
www.atticapark.gr. Although it cannot be said that this thematic exhibits specially designed to cater to childrens’ differ much from any other week day, in Athens all shops
imagination and stimulate their intellectual, creative and making it a completely different cinema experience.
is among the world’s greatest zoos, you and your children Open air cinemas used to replay winter movies but their are closed and a shopaholic visitor can get very easily
will definitely enjoy a few hours of fun inquisitive faculties. It covers an area new-found popularity during the last few years has resulted depressed. Here are some things you can do in the capital
away from the city centre. You’ll have of more than 520 sq. m. in a historic in many of them screening new films. Tickets cost €8-9 only on a Sunday, just to help you get over the closed
the opportunity to see more than three-storey neoclassical building, The best open-air cinemas around the centre of Athens, shops blues.
two hundred species of birds, many including an attic and garden. QOpen each with its own distinctive character, are: Sunday church. Attending a Greek Orthodox church
reptiles, Greek fauna species like: , Tue, Wed, Thu, Fri 10:00 - 14:00, Cine Psirri D4, Sarri 40-44, Psirri,tel. 210 3212476 service can be an interesting experience whether you’re re-
wolves, bears, foxes and wild cats, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Mon. A parking lot at the backyard of a theatre and a warehouse ligious or not. The Sunday morning service (between 07:00
a number of African mammals like Free entrance. (during the winter) are transformed into a lovely cinema in and 09:30) is the one most Greek churchgoers attend all
giraffes, zebras, antelopes and some the summer months, very conveniently located for those over the country, although fewer and fewer young people are
rare animals like snow leopards and Natural History (Goulandris) who don’t feel like going back to their hotel after the show.
seen in church. The best place to visit in the city centre is, of
white lions. Visitors can walk into the Museum Levidou 13 / Othonos Expect re-mastered copies of old movies and new quality
productions. course, Athens Cathedral (modest compared to magnificent
monkeys’ enclosure and also walk 100 (Gaea Centre), MKifisia, tel. cathedrals you may have seen elsewhere) on Mitropoleos
through a special tunnel and get very 210 8015870, fax 210 8080674, Cine Dexameni H4, Dexameni Sq, Kolonaki, tel. 210
3623942 A lovely garden in the heart of Kolonaki, but Street, where you are likely to mingle with local dignatories,
close to the four cheetahs of the park. info@gnhm.gr, www.gnhm.gr. This politicians, etc. The little old church of Kapnikarea (see pg
Museum houses an extensive collec- just off the hustle and bustle of ‘The Square’. Mainstream
To get there take the 319 bus from films followed by an ouzo or two at the ouzeri just outside 62) on Ermou street is a more intimate and atmospheric
Doukisis Plakentias metro station. tion of zoological, botanical, entomo- the cinema, to round your evening off combining style and alternative, although it can get crammed.
QOpen 09:00 - sunset. Admission logical, geological and palaeontologi- tradition. Changing of the guard. The guards (Evzones) at the
fee: €14, Children, Seniors: €10. cal exhibits, with the aim of shedding Aigli G7, Zappeion Garden, tel. 210 3369370 Tomb of the Unknown Soldier in front of the Greek Parlia-
light on the evolution of the Earth and The poshest of all, plays movies catering to all tastes. A ment change on the hour every day and night and this is a
Copa Copana 12th km Athinon living systems, as well as raising public pleasant walk from your hotel through Zappeion garden and top tourist attraction. Every Sunday morning though, just
Ave. Haidari, tel. 210 5576006, awareness regarding the urgent need back. You can stop over for a drink at one of the other Aigli after 10:30 the visitor can watch the full official ceremony
www.copacopanapark.com. Chil- to safeguard the environment. The complex establishments nearby. when the whole Presidential Guard march from their bar-
dren and grown ups are guaranteed Gaea Centre is a modern exhibition Vox G2, Themistokleous 82, Exarchia, tel. 210 racks to the tomb followed by a millitary band. The uniform
a day of endless fun in this huge area with interactive displays and 3301020 A historic rooftop cinema on Exarchia square,
showing films true to the intellectual character of the of the elite soldiers originates in the war of independence
entertainment theme park just fifteen audiovisual performances that tackle from the Ottomans and the kilts have 400 pleats, as many
minutes from the city centre. Waterslides of every kind, and invite the reader to address topical environmental is- district. European and every kind of arty cinema are
favourites here. as the years of the occupation.
swimming pools, islands, waterfalls and the Magic Town, sues. Amenities include special educational programmes Monastiraki flea market. Once you’re done with the
for children, a café-restaurant, gift-shop, as well as a parking Cine Paris F6, Kydathineon 22, Plaka, tel. 210 3222071
the bigest children playground in Greece, complete with a Walking around Plaka Square, you couldn’t possibly imagine Evzones, you can cross Syntagma square and walk down
pirate ship: an absolute heaven for the little ones. There area. QOpen 09:00 - 14:30, Sun 10:00 - 14:30. Closed: the deserted commercial Ermou street to get to Monastiraki
that there is a cinema with a direct Acropolis view atop
is a café, pool bars and a mediterranean restaurant and Until Aug 20 Admission fee: €5 (€7 combined ticket for Gaea one of the surrounding buildings. What a wonderful way to where the flea market is at full swing every Sunday morn-
the fun continues in the evening with cocktails, djs and live Centre), concessions: €3 (€4). continue your evening after you have stuffed yourself with ing. Avisinias square is where you’ll find most shops selling
music. Bus No: A16, B16, E16, 865 from Koumoundourou mousaka at the restaurants of the area. antiques mixed with junk and you can spend a few hours
sq, Bus stop: Afaia-Haidari. A taxi ride costs about €10. Planetarium-Eugenides Foundation Syngrou 387, Thission C6, Apostolou Pavlou 7, Thissio, tel. 210 watching people digging under the piles of used objects of
QOpen 10:00 - 02:00. Weekdays: €17, children up to 12 Palio Faliro, tel. 210 9469641, www.eugenfound.edu. 3420864 This cinema has hardly had any facelifts and all kinds. If you decide to buy something, remember that
yrs: €10 Weekends: €20, children up to 12 yrs: €12. Family gr. Fancy a journey to the stars? If you’re not a millionaire or that’s because it doesn’t need any (except maybe its chairs prices are negotiable, especialy those quoted to foreigners.
and member tickets also available. an astronaut but just curious what Neptune looks like this which are not very comfy). It is the most atmospheric of A self styled market with old stamps, coins and banknotes
time of year, drop by the Eugenides Foundation. This is home all, very conveniently located on pedestrianised Apostolou takes place every Sunday at the end of Adrianou street just
Foundation of the Hellenic World Pireos 254, to the largest and, by general acclaim, most advanced digi- Pavlou street and directly facing the sacred rock of the
Acropolis. outside Thissio metro station where you can buy a set of old
MKallithea, tel. 212 2540000, fax 212 2540123, hel- tal 3-D 360 degrees Planetarium in the world, built in 2003 drachma coins, but again, be cautious with the prices.
lenic_cosmos@ime.gr, www.hellenic-cosmos.gr. This and designed to seat 280 people at a time. Large format
Centre, situated in a former industrial complex and span- films and planetarium shows are projected on a 25-metre
ning a total area of approximately 60,000 sq.m., is not a diameter dome. Thanks to the latest digital technology
Museum in the conventional sense of the term. It does host you can scuba dive in the great barrier reef, get up close
exhibitions aiming at showcasing the development of the and personal with a Hawaiian volcano crater and follow
arts, sciences and every aspect of society throughout the Neil Armstrong’s footsteps on the surface of the moon.
Hellenic world (the current exhibition is entitled ‘A Journey to Buses: 126, A2,B2 from Akadimias & Omirou St QOpen
the World of Greek mathematics’). Yet, its exhibits are not 19:30 - 20:30, Sat, Sun 10:30 - 20:30. Closed Mon, Tue.
the usual original artefacts, but contemporary reconstruc- Planetarium Digital Shows: €6, iWERKS Shows: €8.

Athens In Your Pocket athens.inyourpocket.com athens.inyourpocket.com August - September 2010


64 Gardens & Parks Getting around 65

Public transport Taxis


A universal type of ticket is used, at a cost of €1 and it is
usable for 90 minutes after its validation on all means of
transport. 24h tickets cost €3 and 7day tickets cost €10.
(see pg 67 for the new 3 day ‘Tourist ticket’)
There are also monthly and yearly unlimited travel cards at
various costs. For info call 185 or ask at any public transport
ticket kiosk or metro station. Fines for fare-dodgers are 60
times the price of the ticket.

Buses and Trolley-


buses tel. 185, www.
oasa.gr. They operate
between 05:00-24:00
and th eir net work is
convenient. The recent
inauguration of bus lanes
means that th ey are
relativel y fast though Be extremely careful as some taxi drivers - usually
sometimes unpunctual. operating at airpor ts - tr y to earn a day’s (or even
If you’re within the town a week’s) wages from foreign visitors.
centre you should be I f you have to use a taxi, always ask for the meter
fine, as you’ll find there’ll be more than one bus line serv- to be on, and never accept a fixed price i f you pick
ing your route. Make sure you purchase your ticket from up a taxi in the street. The current starting price is
a kiosk (‘periptero’) beforehand and that you validate it at €1.05 and then there is a fixed rate of €0.60 per
once on board. km for the single, day-time tari f f (05.00-24.00),
and €1.05 per km for the double, night-time tari f f.
Metro tel. 210 The minimum charge for every ride is €2.80. There
National Gardens AIYP 6792399, www.ametro. is an additional charge of €3.40 when you travel
gr. This is definitely the from and to Athens Airpor t and €0.95 from and to
National Gardens G6, Amalias Street, MSyntagma. pages) are also to be found here offering the same breathtak- most convenient means harbours, train and bus stations. You can call a
Created and designed by Queen Amalia in the 19th century, ing views of the capital. to getting around Athens. It radio taxi by paying an extra €1.70 for immediate
the National Gardens provide a pleasant green haven in the operates between 05:00- pick up (which can take some time during rush
heart of bustling downtown Athens. Its meandering bench- Pedion tou Areos Pati- 24:00 from impeccable hours) or €3 - 5 for an appointment.From July 1
laden paths, cool trees and popular ponds, make up a favou- sion (28th October) & Al- stations (some, such as 2010, VAT (11%) is charged on top of those
rite stroll for everyone. Feeding the ever-hungry water fowl at exandras St, MVictoria. Acropolis and Syntagma, rates.Please note that th e following radio-taxi
the ponds is a must, while you may also visit the Botanical A lovely park located within also doubling as site mu- companies only handle the calls and do not own
Museum and, for the young (or young at heart) there is the easy walking distance (just seums) playing soothing the taxis. They are not there fore responsible for
dedicated Childrens’ Museum. A pleasant coffee-shop is also fi ve minu tes) from th e classical music and featur- the conduct of the drivers.
located in its grounds. National Archaeological ing glittering white marble and interesting works of art.
Museum, i ts expansi ve The metro has good links to the pre-existing over ground If you feel that you are about to be ripped
Botanical Gar den tree-lined vistas make for rail network, connecting the harbour of Piraeus with the of f,ask for a receipt, refuse to pay and
(Diomidous Gardens) a pleasant stroll during the day - there are also numerous northern suburb of Kifisia, the stations of which have been demand to be taken to the nearest police
401, Iera Odos Avenue. impressive statues of Greek War of Independence heroes. recently upgraded. At long last, the operating hours have station. This has worked wonders in the
Extending over a vast area been extended to 02:00 am every Friday and Saturday and past and tourists have seen the price asked
of 1,800 hectares in Ath- Zappeion Garden G7, Athenians just love it. dropping dramatically in seconds!
ens’ western suburbs of Vas. Olgas Av. MSyntag-
Korydallos, Dafni and Agia ma, Acropolis. Situated Tram www.tramsa.
Var vara, i t makes for a gr. For the leisurely
lovel y and invigorating,
right next to (and actually
forming an extension of) traveler who wishes Radio Taxi Companies
if impractically situated, the National Gardens, the to get around in style
scenic stroll. Within its expansive serene grounds you can Zappeion Garden gener- (the tram cars were Apollon tel. 210 3636508
find an overwhelming abundance of flora (more than 3000), ously provides a serene designed by Ferrari Asteras tel. 210 6144000
some of which are exceedingly rare, as well as a dedicated get-away from the hustle designer Sergio Pin- Ellas tel. 210 6457000
botanic section with pharmaceutical plants. QOpen 08:00 and bustle. There are wonderfully crafted statues to be infarina, no less) and Enotita tel. 210 6459000
- 14:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 15:00. seen, while the café and restaurant are well worth a visit. in a less crowded, Evropi tel. 210 5028574
These Gardens harmoniously combine the grand (imposing albeit slower fashion, Hermes tel. 210 4115200
Lycabettus Hill I3 . architecture of the Zappeion Hall) with the pristine, in its cool the tram is the way. It Icaros tel. 210 5152800
It can be reached on foot shady vistas and green corner get-aways. is brand new and more comfortable and spacious than the Kosmos tel. 18 300
for the adventurous via a buses and trolleybuses. Plus, you get the chance to view the Protoporia tel. 210 2130400
beautiful pedestrian walk- wonderful seaside esplanade of Athens’ southern coastal
way surrounded by pine Presidential Palace Gardens H6, Irodou Attikou suburbs by boarding the tram towards Voula. Operating
St. MSyntagma Do not miss the opportunity for a stroll hours are 05:00-01:00 (Fri - Sat: 24h).
trees, by the funicular or by
car, offering excellent views in the gardens of a historic Royal residence-now the IYP recommends:
of the entire city and the For a fast, reliable and trusted taxi service call Aris,
Saronic Gulf. There is an open-air theatre atop the Hill that
Presidential Palace. The magnificent gardens became
accessible for the first time last March after President Courier Services our favourite taxi driver. Mob. (+30) 6937 202504
regularly hosts concerts during summer months. Also on the Karolos Papoulias decided to open their gates to the ACS 210 8190000 DHL tel. 210 9890000
Hill is the small gleaming-white picturesque church of Saint public every Sunday 10:00 - 14:00. TNT tel. 801 11868868 UPS tel. 210 9984000
George. A coffee-shop and restaurant (see our restaurant

Athens In Your Pocket athens.inyourpocket.com August - September 2010


66 Getting around Getting around 67

Aircraft/helicopter rentals Post Offices


ABI (air business international) Vouliagmenis 602A,
Glyfada, tel. 210 9967870, fax 210 9967872, info@
abi.gr, karafil@abi.gr. Buy, sell, lease or hire helicopters
and aircrafts.
Airlift Herodou Attikou 12A, Marousi, MMarousi, tel.
210 8093771/210 8093777, airlift@airlift.gr, www.
airlift.gr. Helicopter rental for sightseeing or transport in If you are the old-fashioned type and a snail-mail lover,
style. here is a list of centrally located post offices.
The stamp to post a 20gr letter or postcard abroad
costs €0.70. Add to that €3.20 for registered and €2.90
Airlines for express mail.
Aegean Viltanioti 31, Kifisia, tel. 210 6261000/Air-
port: 210 3530101. Acropolis post kiosk D6, Acropolis rock, MAk-
Aeroflot Xenofontos 14, tel. 210 3220986/Airport: ropolis, tel. 210 3217650. QOpen 07:30 - 14:00,
210 3531101. Sun 09:00 - 13:30.
Aerosvit Syngrou 36-38, tel. 210 9210710/Airport: Aiolou - Central PO E3, Aiolou 100, MOmonia,
210 3534020. tel. 210 3216024. QOpen 07:30 - 20:00, Sat 07:30
Air France Megalou Alexandrou 7, Argyroupoli, tel. 210 - 14:00. Closed Sun.
9970700/Airport: 210 3530380. Exarchia G1, Zaimi 36-38, MVictoria, tel. 210
Air China Filellinon 24, tel. 210 3716386/Airport: 8219570. QOpen 07:30 - 14:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
210 3534245. Kolonaki I5, Ploutarchou & Karneadou 35, MEvan-
Albanian Panepistimiou 15, tel. 210 3227466/Airport: gelismos, tel. 210 7244404. QOpen 07:30 - 14:00.
210 3530376. Closed Sat, Sun.
Alitalia Vouliagmenis 577, tel. 210 9988888/Airport: Makrigianni F7, Dionisiou Areopagitou 7, MAk-
210 3534284. ropolis, tel. 210 9218076. QOpen 07:30 - 14:00.
Ultra-modern Kerameikos metro station AIYP Austrian Vouliagmenis 18, Glyfada, tel. 210 9601240/ Closed Sat, Sun.
Airport: 210 3533425. Metaxourgio C3, Thermopylon 42, MMetaxourgio,
British Airways Themistokleous 1, Glyfada, tel. 210 tel. 210 5225277. QOpen 07:30 - 14:00. Closed
Free Internet Internet 801 1156000/Airport: 210 3531170. Sat, Sun.
Bits and Bytes Akadimias 78, MPanepistimio, tel. Bulgaria Air Nikis 33, tel. 210 3228113/Airport: 210 Mitropoleos E5, Mitropoleos 60, MMonastiraki,
athenswifi: Grab your laptop, head to Syntagma (+30) 210 3813830. 3531156. tel. 210 3218143. QOpen 07:30 - 20:00. Closed
Square, Kotzia Square, or Thissio (from the metro station Continental Airlines Filellinon 25, tel. 00800 Sat, Sun.
up along the pedestrian path), find somewhere comfort- c@fe4U Ippokratous 44, Exarchia, MPanepistimio, 44143592/Airport: 210 3530678. Omonia E2, 3rd Septemvriou 28, MOmonia, tel. 210
able to sit and log on: Internet access is free! tel. (+30) 210 3611981, info@cafe4U.gr, www.cafe4U. Cyprus Athens International Airport, tel. 210 3534100/ 5233636. QOpen 07:30 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
gr. QOpen 24h. Airport: 210 3534312. Plaka F6, Nikis 33, MSyntagma, tel. 210 3235831.
Czech Airlines Kyprou 151, Argyroupoli, tel. 210 QOpen 07:30 - 14:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
easyInternetcafé Syntagma Square, Everest restau- 9652957/Airport: 210 3531252. Syntagma Square F5, , MSyntagma, tel. 210
24 hrs kiosks rant, MSyntagma. Delta Athens International Airpor t, tel. 00800 3237573. QOpen 07:30 - 20:00, Sat 07:30 - 14:00,
Sun 09:00 - 13:30.
44129506/Airport: 210 3530116.
Emirates Syngrou 128, tel. 210 9333400/Airport:
210 3531174.
Information Numbers Gulf Air Nikis 33, tel. 210 3220851/Airport: 210 Luggage lockers
3531566.
Luggage lockers can be found at Omonia, Monastiraki
Ferries departure info tel. 1441. Ib eria Athens International Airpor t, tel. 210 and Piraeus old (green) line metro stations (€3 per 24h).
KTEL (intercity buses) departure info tel. 14505 3537600.
OASA (urban transportation) info tel. 185. Jat Airways Amerikis 10, tel. 210 3622054/210
OSE (Greek Railways) info tel. 1110. 3634572.
KLM Megalou Alexandrou 7, Argyroupoli, tel. 210
Transport tickets maths
9110000/Airport: 210 3533436.
LOT Panepistimiou 15, tel. 210 3237762/Airport: 210 A new ‘Tourist ticket’ has been introduced for visi-
Car rental 3530376. tors coming to Athens only for a few days. The cost
Lufthansa Sorou 18-20, Marousi, tel. 210 6175200. of the ticket is €15 and it can be used on all means
Avis Tel. 210 6879600, fax 210 6879610, Malev Panepistimiou 15, tel. 210 3241116/Airport: of transport including unlimited journeys to and from
reservations@avis.gr, www.avis.gr 210 3530376. the airport for three days.
Olympic Syngrou 96, tel. 801 801 0101/Airport: 210
Budget Tel. 800 11 800 12, 210 8981444, 3550500. However, given the existence of a weekly ticket
reservations@budget-athens.gr, www. Qatar Airways Syngrou 170, tel. 210 9508700/Air- costing €10 (excluding the airport lines), going for the
Run out of cigarettes, feel like reading a newspaper, budget-athens.gr. port: 210 3534011. new ticket only makes sense for those who only want
craving for a chocolate, need a condom, or worst of SAS Vouliagmenis 85, Gly fada/Airpor t: 210 to travel to and from the airport on metro or suburban
all, someone stole your In Your Pocket guide at 5 in the Europcar Tel. 210 2882151, fax 210 2882050, 3530373. railway (€6 each way - €10 return).
morning? No worries, here is where you’ll find 24-hour info@batek-europcar.gr, www.europcar.com.gr Singapore Airlines Kallirois 103, tel. 210 3728000/
kiosks: Airport: 210 3531259. If you want to use the bus to and from the airport
Hertz Tel. 210 6264000, fax 210 6264409, Swiss Sorou 18-20, Marousi, tel. 210 6175320/Airport: (€3.20 each way) you’re probably better off buying
Kolonaki Sq. H5 Mavili Sq. K4 www.hertz.gr 210 3530382. the weekly ticket and pay for the airport bus sepa-
Syntagma Sq. G5 Omonia Sq. E3 Thai El. Venizelou 32, Glyfada, tel. 210 9692020/210 rately. This will cost you just €1.40 more but you’ll
Kanigos Sq. F2 Ag Assomaton Sq. C5 National Tel. 210 3493428, fax 210 3493417, 3531237. get a week’s worth of transport rather than just
reservations@nationalcar.gr, www.nationalcar.gr Turkish Athens International Airport, tel. 210 3537280/ three days.
Airport: 210 3530401.

Athens In Your Pocket athens.inyourpocket.com athens.inyourpocket.com August - September 2010


68 Getting around Shopping 69

Ferry Schedule Spending guide


From Piraeus to: Days Dep.
Here you are in Athens, this sprawling, chaotic, enticing style labels (some of which designed by well-known graf-
Siros-Tinos-Mykonos / HS 1234567 7:25
city, with its rough-hewn lively urban character, wonder- fiti artists).
Siros-Tinos-Mykonos / HS –––4567 17:15
ing where to head off shopping. Let us give you a few Oh, and as regards local colour, don’t miss out on a walk
Paros-Naxos-Santorini/BS 1234567 7:25
insiders’ tips… though the bristling Monastiraki Flea Market (great for
Siros-Tinos-Mykonos /BS 12–4567 7:35
First of all, and take our word for it, you’ll need to keep shop collectors’ items, vintage records and other quirky items
Kithnos-Serifos-Sifnos-Milos- 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 7:25
Kimolos/GA opening hours in mind. Although opening hours are officially and memorabilia) and the colourful Athens’ Central Market
Paros-Naxos/HS 1234567 7:30 unregulated from Monday to Saturday (on Sundays all (we recommend you purchase some local herbs here -
Ios-Santorini/HS 1234567 7:15 shops except pastry shops, wine and spirits shops, flower there’s a very wide selection available at great prices).
Santorini-Rethymno –2–––6– 15:45 shops and emergency pharmacies, are closed), you’ll find At the opposite end of the spectrum, Kolonaki caters
Paros-Naxos/HS 1234567 16:30 that most businesses (with the exception of large depart- to those after some sophisticated, upmarket chic (at the
Siros-Tinos-Mykonos /HS 12–4567 17:15 ment stores) adhere to the following opening hours: appropriate price, of course).
Paros-Naxos-Iraklia-Shinousa- – – 3 – 5 – 7 17:30 Mon, Wed, Sat: 09:00-15:00. Then again, if you’re the department-store type of shop-
Koufonisi-Amorgos-BS Tue, Thu, Fri: 09:00-14:30 & 17:00-20:30. per, you’ll have to choose between a few really impressive
Paros-Naxos-Amorgos- 1–––––– 17:30 OSE train in northern Greece VK All shops close on National Holidays. Souvenir shops and department stores. (See our list).
convenience stores operating around tourist sites are gen- Finally, some useful shopping tips before you set off:
Astipalea/BS
Syros-Paros-Naxos-Donousa- –2 – 4 – 6 – 17:30
Trains erally open longer hours, usually 09:00-23:00 every day. Credit cards: All major international credit cards are
Amorgos-Astipalea/BS The Greek rail network is one of the smallest in Europe. Now that we’ve sorted when to shop, time to tackle the accepted in all large stores, as well as in boutiques. They
Siros-Ikaria-Samos-HS 1234––– 13:00 In fact, there is one main line to the north of the country next question: where to shop. may not be accepted in family-run businesses or local
Siros-Ikaria-Samos-HS ––––5–– 16:00 and another to the Peloponnese. The mountainous neighbourhood stores, so in those establishments it is
Paros-Naxos-Kalimnos-Kos- 1 – 3 – – – – 15:00 landscape of the country does not allow for an extensive A visit to the charming Plaka district, apart from some best to double-check. Most Greeks pay for their purchases
Nisiros-Tilos-Rodos/BS network but the truth is that the railway never featured rather kitsch souvenir shops, will also reward you with in plastic, which accounts for the proliferation of credit
Chios-Mytilini/NEL 12345–7 19:00 among Greek governments' top priorities. Only over the great traditional arts and crafts shops that are well worth schemes available, as well as for the very large amounts
Siros-Kos-Rodos/BS 1––4––– 19:00 last twenty years, there has been an effort to modernise a visit (we give you some ideas in our listings section). On of debt incurred by many Greek households.
Serifos-Sifnos-Milos/HS 12–4567 18:00 and upgrade the standards of the rail services and as a the other hand, if it’s a more all-encompassing shopping Sales: Winter sales run during the period from middle to
Kalimnos-Kos-Rodos/BS –2–4––– 18:00 result the travel time between Athens and Thessaloniki is experience you’re after, a good bet is to head to Ermou end- January up to mid-February (maximum five weeks’
Syros-Patmos-Leros-Kos- –– 3–––– 19:00 now less than five hours. However, for the rail journey lov- Street (starting from Syntagma Square and culminating duration). Summer sales run during the period from mid-July
Rodos/BS ers, Greek railways are not short of scenic routes, some in Monastiraki). This is a great shopping spree destina- up to the end of August at the latest.
Heraklio/ANEK 1234567 20:30 of them otherwise inaccessible. Every train departs tion, as it’s conveniently pedestrianised and offers a very
Heraklio/ML 1234567 21:00 Athens from Larisis station (Metro: Stathmos Larisis) wide selection of mainstream consumer goodies: clothes, Local shopping culture: Greeks tend to be big spend-
Chania/Anek 1234567 21:00 OSE Sina 6 (Central tickets office), tel. 1110, www. jewelry, shoes, cosmetics, gift shops (yes, you guessed it, ers and great fans of branded items, generally sporting
Paros/BS ––––5–7 21:00 ose.gr. The Greek railways state monopoly. No online Ermou Street is mainly a ladies’ shopping haven). designer sunglasses and top of the range mobile phones
Paros-Naxos-Ios-Sikinos- –––––6– 15:00 booking. But the lower end of Ermou Street, towards the seedier as essential accessories, with a concurrent tendency to
Folegandros-Santorini-Anafi/ Monastiraki area, is a different story. Head here for accumulate rather large credit card bills as well. In short,
GA urban wear, so you can deck yourself out in original street you’re in a true shopping-lovers’ city. Enjoy!
Kithnos-Serifos-Sifnos- –2–4––– 15:00
Kimolos-Milos-Folegandros- Train schedule
Sikinos-Ios-Santorini-Anafi
Patmos-Leros-Kos-Rodos/BS – – – – – 6 – 23:55
From Athens To Athens Clothes Notos Galleries Aiolou 99, MOmonia, www.notos-
Dep. Arr. City Dep. Arr.
Ferry companies 6:50-IC 12:21 THESSALONIKI 1:51-IC 6:45 Prime-Timers Ifaistou 12, MMonastiraki, tel. 210 galleries.gr. A standard department store primarily selling
7:54-ICEX 12:09 THESSALONIKI 7:24-ICEX 11:39 3242972, www.prime-timers.gr The top chain for street clothes and satisfiying most of the consumption needs of
ANEK LINES Akti Kondyli 22, Pireaus, tel. Domes- 9:21 15:03 THESSALONIKI 7:35 14:06 fashion in Athens. Young Athenians go crazy for their ex- the modern Athenian.
tic:210 4197420/International:210 4197430, boo- 10:51-IC 15:50 THESSALONIKI 10:13-IC 15:20 clusively imported brands like WeSC, BENCH, RINGSPUN, Notos Home Kratinou 5, Kotzia Sq, MOmonia, tel.
king@anek.gr, www.anek.gr. Ferry connections between 13:21-IC 18:31 THESSALONIKI 11:40-IC 16:42 SIXPACK, HOOCH , FREESOUL etc as well as exclusive Levi’s 210 3743000, www.notosgalleries.gr. This is a one stop
Piraeus - Crete and Greece - Italy 14:53 20:55 THESSALONIKI 12:43 18:18 Adidas and Converse collections. shop for young couples setting up their new home. Furniture,
16:51 23:44 THESSALONIKI 14:54-IC 19:49 electrical appliances and even a travel agency cater to every
Blue Star Ferries Amalias 30, tel. 210 8919800,
bluestarferries@bluestarferries.com, www.bluestarfer-
19:29-IC 23:44
20:39-IC 02:01
THESSALONIKI
THESSALONIKI
16:29 22:46
19:01-IC 23:16 Collectors Items self-respecting wedding list.
The Mall , MNerantziotissa, www.themallathens.
ries.com. Ferry connections from Piraeus to Cyclades and 22:55-SL 06:26 THESSALONIKI 23:03-SL 5:46 Collectors shop Stadiou 44 (Stoa Arsakeiou 10), gr. This shopping centre with the imaginative name is the
Dodekanese 23:59-SL 07:18 THESSALONIKI 23:39-SL 6:12 MOmonia, tel. 210 3318248, fax 210 3318249, info@ biggest shopping complex in the wider Athens area. If you
ALEXANDROU- collector-shop.com, www.collector-shop.com. Mr Syvr- have a whole day to spend shopping then head for this out-
6:50-IC 17:16 POLIS 0:51 14:06
Hellenic Seaways , tel. 210 4199000, www.helle- idakis is an expert dealer of rare Greek coins, banknotes and of-town temple of consumption. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00, Sat
nicseaways.gr. High speed ferry connections to the Saronic ALEXANDROU- stamps. In his shop you’ll find huge collections which can also 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. PTALK
16:51 5:50 6:42-IC 16:42
islands and Cyclades POLIS be purchased from his excellent on-line shop.
ALEXANDROU- Tarasouleas Stadiou 10, MSyntagma, tel. 210
20:39-IC 6:58 15:22 5:46
Minoan Lines 25th August St. 17, Heraklion, Crete, tel. POLIS
ALEXANDROU-
3255564, fax 210 3221440. Mr Tarasouleas is an author- Electronics, Computers & Gadgets
210 4145700, info@minoan.gr, www.minoan.gr. Ferry 23:59-SL 13:18 20:32-IC 6:45 ity in numismatics and in his shop you’ll find rare greek coins,
POLIS
connections between Piraeus - Crete and Greece - Italy 22:55 12:40 SOFIA 17:00 6:12 banknotes and a large collection of stamps. Germanos , www.germanos.gr. There is a branch on
every other corner. Here you can change batteries and repair
NEL Lines Astigos 2, Pireaus, tel. 210 4115015, To
sales@nel.gr, www.nel.gr. Connections to Lesvos, Chios
From
THESSALONIKI THESSALONIKI Department Stores and buy every brand of mobile phone.
Plaisio, www.plaisio.gr. The largest computer and office
and the Cyclades Dep. Arr. City Dep. Arr. Attica Panepistimiou 9, City Link, MSyntagma, tel. supply chain.-Stournari 19 & 24, F1-Zaimi 10, F1-Voulis 3,
16:15-SL 5:06 BELGRADE 22:20-SL 13:07 211 1802600, fax 211 1802698, www.atticadps. Syntagma, F5
Superfast Ferries Karamanli 157, Voula, tel. 210 19:58-SL 7:45 ISTANBUL 20:30-SL 8:17 gr. Upmarket department store,the biggest in the city. All Public, www.public.gr. You can’t miss this large store
8919509, www.superfast.com. Blue Star's international 6:26 12:40 SOFIA 6:55 13:00 top brands priced accordingly. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00, Sat selling computers, gadgets and books: It’s right on Syn-
sister company connects Greece and Italy and also Scotland 17:48 23:55 SOFIA 17:00 23:39 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. PTJAGK tagma Sq, G5
and Belgium

Athens In Your Pocket athens.inyourpocket.com August - September 2010


70 Shopping Shopping 71

Gifts & Souvenirs Market values Markets


Benaki Museum Gift Shop Koumbari 1, Kolonaki, € $ £
Athens Central Market (Varvakeios) Athinas Street inyourpocket.com
MSyntagma, tel. 210 367 1000, fax 210 367 1063, (between Evripidou & Sofocleous Streets), MMonasti-
the-shop@benaki.gr, www.benaki.gr/museumshop/en. Mc Donald’s Big Mac 3.20 4.16 2.69 raki, Omonia. An extravaganza of sights, smells and sounds,
A tasteful selection of replicas of ancient Greek and Byzantine Kg of white bread 0.75 0.97 0.63 here you will be treated to a very wide selection of spices, twitter.com/inyourpocket
art, as well as an interesting selection of jewelry, prints, ce- Snickers bar 0.60 0.78 0.50 herbs, cheeses, olives, meats, fish and all sorts of gastro-
ramics, antiques, religious icons and books. QOpen 09:00 0.7L of vodka 16.00 20.80 13.44 nomical delights. Take a pick from the wonderful selection of
- 17:00, Thu 09:00 - 24:00, Sun 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Tue. 0.5L bottle of beer
20 Marlboros
1.10
3.80
1.43 0.92
4.94 3.19
nuts, herbs and dried fruits - you will be hard pressed to find
these back home. QOpen 07:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.
facebook.com/inyourpocket
Kombologadiko H5, Koumbari 6, Kolonaki. This spe- Public transport ticket 1.00 1.30 0.84
Cinema ticket 8.00 10.4 6.72
cialty shop offers all kinds of rosary beads, known as ‘kom-
bologia’ - in Greece they are used for pleasure and for aiding
Fruit & Vegetable street markets (Laiki markets)
Every Athenian neighbourhood has its own open air fruit and
youtube.com/inyourpocket
Exchange rates (as of 28.07.2010):
concentration and are especially favoured by older men. It is EUR=1.30USD EUR=0.84 GBP veg market on a specific day of the week. Licenced produc-
also recommended against stress and, believe it or not, as
an aid for quitting smoking. A gift with many uses…
ers bring their fresh goodies from their farms to the big city
neighbourhoods. Prices start high in the morning but in true Sweets
Aristokratikon F5, Karageorgi Servias 9. The city’s
Melissinos, The poet-sandalmaker Agias Theklas 2, International Bookshops market fashion get really low towards midday.
One of the best and well worth pottering around is in Kal- premier sweets and pastries emporium, with an extensive
Psirri, MMonastiraki, Thissio, tel. 210 3219247, info@ Compendium Nikis 28, MSyntagma, tel. 210 3221248, lidromiou St. Exarchia, every Saturday morning. array of delicious hand-crafted sweets and chocolates, made
melissinos-poet.com, /www.melissinos-poet.com. Fancy compendium@otenet.gr. An independent English language with the finest local ingredients.
a pair of hand-made ancient Greek sandals made by a world bookshop in Plaka. Literature, newspapers, magazines Monastiraki Flea Market Ifestou & surrounding
streets, MMonastiraki. It has lost some of its old days
famous...poet? Stavros Melissinos has crafted sandals for
celebrities like the Beatles, Jackie Kennedy, Sofia Loren and Deutsche Buchhandlung (German Bookshop) Sta- charm as modern shops have replaced the stalls, but it re- Tattoo & Piercing
has featured in newspaper articles all over the world. He runs diou 10 & Omirou 4, MPanepistimio, Syntagma, tel. 210 mains the absolute Athenian open-air, vibrant, people-packed, Black Rose D4, Pallados 16, Psirri, MMonastiraki,
his workshop together with his son, an artist. 3225294, fax 2103232289, sales@dbo.gr, www.dbo. shopping/haggling experience. Head here if you are looking tel. (+30) 210 3238610, www.blackroseta2.gr. If you
gr. German books are not widely available in Athens but this for antiques, collectors’ items, vintage clothing, old music are up for a permanent souvenir from Athens, then head to
National Archaeological Museum Gift Shop Pati- excellent buchhandlung perfectly covers the needs of German records and books, homeware, leatherwear and souvenirs. Black Rose, one of the top tattoo and piercing studios in the
sion (28th October) 44, MVictoria, tel. 210 8217724, locals and travellers. QOpen 07:00 - 15:00. centre of the city. Professional art work, safety and hygiene
fax 210 8213573. Recently refurbished and expanded, it of- are guaranteed.
Eleftheroudakis Panepistimiou 17, MPanepistimio, tel.
fers a wide selection of replicas of ancient artifacts, as well as
a comprehensive collection of guide books on ancient Greece. 210 322938, elebooks@books.gr, www.books.gr. Expats’ Natural Cosmetics Traditional Food Products
An interesting selection of gift ideas and memorabilia is also favourite hang out, this 7 storey bookshop boasts a large English Apivita G4, Solonos 26, Kolonaki, www.apivita.com. A
available. QOpen 08:30 - 19:00, Mon 13:00 - 19:00. section with all the paperbacks you’re likely to wish for before full series of natural cosmetics produced with propolis, honey, Gaea Products, www.gaea.gr. Greek traditional products
you head to the beach and then some. royal jelly, rosemary, green tea and fruits. Greek products that of exceptional quality and many international awards. Extra
Fashion Bookstore F5, Thisseos 6. An interesting little
Greek designers bookshop selling exclusively fashion magazines from around
make perfect gifts for anyone back home.
Korres, www.korres.com. Started as a homeopathic
virgin olive oil, olives, and dips to take home with you. Available
in large supermarkets and the airport duty free shops.
Celia Kritharioti F6, Dedalou 8, Plaka. Internationally ac- the world. pharmacy, Korres now produces more than 500 skin and hair Mastiha Shop G5, Panepistimiou & Kriezotou and Ath-
claimed Greek designer, her creations are feminine, sensuous care herbal products, sold in more than 30 countries.Greek ens Airport, www.mastihashop.gr. All mastiha products
and elegant. She is also well known for her wedding gowns Librairie Kauffmann (French Bookshop) Stadiou 28, women love them as they are 100% natural. brought to you by the association of Chios mastic growers.
and lovely sequined and hand-embroidered garments, many of MPanepistimio, Syntagma, tel. 210 3255321, fax 210 These exclusively Greek product makes the ideal gift to
3230320, kauffmann.stadiou@yahoo.gr, www.kauffmann.
which are strewn with semi-precious stones and crystals.
gr. A historic bookshop supplying local francophones since an Second hand bring home if you want to avoid an ‘ouzo power’ t-shirt! Try
the natural chewing gum and the sweet liquor. A full range of
Ioanna Kourbela F6, Adrianou 109 & Hatzimichali era when French was the foreign language of choice among American Markets . Ermou 30, D5, 2nd floor tel. 210 natural cosmetics is also available.
12, Plaka, www.kourbelaioanna.gr. Innovative fashion educated Greeks. 3217870, Ermou 48, D5, 1st flor tel. 210 3215740, Mesogaia F6, Nikis & Kydathineon 52, Plaka. Delica-
designer Ioanna Kourbela takes the national body conscious Sofokleous 19, E3, 1st floor tel. 210 3217051 tessen selling delicious local speciality foods from around
image to a whole different level with a barrage of billowing Road Travel Bookstore Solonos 71, MPanepistimio, Yesterday’s Bread Kallidromiou 87, Exarchia, tel. 210 Greece, such as extra-virgin olive oil, the local spirit, “raki”,
fabrics twinned with creative layering, seeking to showcase tel. 210 3613242, fax 210 3614681, bookstore@road.gr, 8811233. Imported second hand clothes. a diverse array of cheeses and a fragrant selection of wild
the female form in a completely different way to what we’re www.road.gr. This excellent travel bookshop belongs to the top herbs.
accustomed.. Greek cartography company Road, which is our map supplier. A
Shoes
Loukia H5, Kanari 24, Kolonaki. Unique designer label that
visit here is essential before any excursion to the countryside,
where you’ll have a huge choice between their top quality maps Camper Ermou 34, MSyntagma, tel. 210 3216709. Traditional Instruments
manages to exude an aura of romance, unconventional cre- covering every last corner of the country, their state of the art The world’s grooviest shoes! Iapetos D4, Louka Nika 14, Psirri, MThissio, Monas-
ative originality and theatrical extravaganza, all in one. Loukia’s GPS system and all international travel guides series.If you men- Kalogirou H5, Patriarchou Ioakim 4, Kolonaki. The tiraki, tel. 210 3225963, www.karellas.gr. A workshop
clothes are simultaneously reminiscent of a fairy tale princess, tion you’re an In Your Pocket reader, the bookshop’s experienced ultimate fashionable shoe shop, with top international labels producing handmade traditional musical instruments. Prices
with flamboyant tulle, ruffles, laces and embroideries, as well staff will happily give you an extra discount. as well as its own-brand discerning designs. A must-visit are high but your bouzouki will be of the highest quality. On
as an outspokenly subversive-yet-glamorous diva, confident destination for all shoe afficionados. line orders too.
enough to pull off these exciting creations in style.
Jewellery
Parthenis H4, Dimokritou & Tsakalof 20, Kolonaki. Zolotas G5, Panepistimiou 10, Stadiou 9, www.zolotas. Supermarkets Wines & Spirits
Casual chic designer label, offering sophisticated garments gr. Fine jewellers since 1895. Inspired by classic Greek art, their AB Vassilopoulos www.ab.gr. Supermarkets are rare Wine Garage I4, Xenokratous 25, Kolonaki, tel. 210
using exclusively natural fibres for those who opt for style creations are objects of desire for every female with fine taste in downtown Athens, they tend to concentrate in residential 7213175, info@winegarage.gr, www.winegarage.gr.
and comfort in one. Orsalia Parthenis’ creations can aptly be and finesse. If a knickknack souvenir is not your cup of tea and areas. Some central branches of the best supermarket chain Greek wines are much better than you may think and if you
characterised as unaffected and simple, yet quintessentially you have a corresponding bank balance, then walk in one of their AB Vassilopoulos can be found at the following addresses: want to bring a few bottles back home, in this excellent shop
elegant. posh boutiques and spoil yourself or your beloved. -Vouliagmenis 67 & Menonos, Mets, F8 you’ll find a huge selection of Greek and world labels, expert
-Marni 24, E1 -Spyrou Merkouri 38, Pangrati, J6 -Keiriadon & advice and prices to make you smile.
Sfiton, Petralona, A6 -Mavromichali 157 & Digeni Akrita, I1
QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun.
www.inyourpocket.gr €1 = £0.84
(July 28 2010)

Athens In Your Pocket athens.inyourpocket.com athens.inyourpocket.com August - September 2010


72 directory directory 73

Embassies Banks Business services Italian Cultural Institute Patission 47, MVictoria,
tel. 210 5242646, fax 210 5242714, www.iicatene.
Alpha Bank Stadiou 40, tel. 2103260000. esteri.it.
Adecco Kifisias 56, tel. 210 6930490, www.adecco.
Albania Vekiar eli 7, Filothei, tel. 210 ATE Bank Panepistimiou 23, tel. 210 3298911. gr. HR and recruitment business services
6876200.
Government
Australia Kifisias 1-3, tel. 210 8704000. Bank of Greece (Central Bank) Panepistimiou 21, Dowlings Solicitors Kifisou 19, Nea Kifisia, tel. 210 Parliament Vasilissis Sofias 2, tel. 210 3707000, info@
tel. 210 3201111, www.bankofgreece.gr. 8076575, www.dowlings.gr. English Solicitors operating parliament.gr, www.parliament.gr.
Austria Vas.Sofias 4, tel. 210 7257270. in Greece, specialising in Greek property, management and
Belgium Sekeri 3, Kolonaki, tel. 210 BNP Paribas Vasilissis Sofias 94, tel. 210 7468000. related taxation issues. Prime Minister Irodou Attikou 19, www.primemin-
3617886. ister.gr.
Bulgaria Stratigou Kallari St, Psyhiko, tel. Citibank Achaias 3, Kifisia, tel. 210 8186000. Fair Consulting F5, Lekka 23-25, MSyntagma, tel.
210 3232633, fax 210 3232664, info@fairconsulting.
210 6748106.
Eurobank Amalias 20, tel. 210 9555000. gr, www.fairconsulting.gr. Claims management, loss ap- Greek language courses
Canada Ioannou Gennadiou 4, tel. 210 praisals and insurance settlements negotiations. Athens Centre Archimidous 48, tel. 210 7012268,
7273400. HSBC Mesogion 109, tel. 210 6962100. info@athenscentre.gr, www.athenscentre.gr. A private
Cyprus Herodotou 16, tel. 210 7237883. FC&D Zisimopoulou 16, Psichiko, tel. 210 6930780, institute offering lessons in modern Greek and also business
Czech Republic Seferi 6, Psichiko, tel. 210 Mar f in Egnatia Bank Zef yr ou 56, tel. 210 www.fcd.gr. Franchise consultancy in the Greek and inter- Greek, Greek culture, theatre, poetry etc
6719701. 9304811. national markets.
University of Athens Modern Greek Language
Denmark Vas.Sofias 11, tel. 210 7256440. National Bank Eolou 86, tel. 210 3341000. Global Business Services Kifisias 90, tel. 210 Teaching Centre, University Campus, Ilissia, tel. 210
France Vas.Sofias 7, tel. 210 3391000. 8764876, www.gbs.gr. Furnished, equipped and serviced 7277672, nglt.info@nglt.uoa.gr, www.nglt.uoa.gr.
Germany Karaoli & Dimitriou 3, Kolonaki, tel. Piraeus Bank Amerikis 4, tel. 210 3335000. offices for as long as you need them. Modern Greek lessons organised by the University of Ath-
210 7285111. ens. All year, summer and intensive classes and reasonable
Hungary Karneadou 25, tel. 210 7256800. Postal Savings Bank Pesmazoglou 2-6, tel. 210 International Business Services Michalakopoulou tuition fees.
3704000. 29, tel. 210 7245541, www.ibs-ltd.gr. Translation, HR,
China Krinon 2A, Psichiko, tel. 210
6723282.
conference and consultancy services to traveling business-
International Schools
Ireland Vasileos Konstantinou 5-7, tel. 210 Business connections men and foreign companies entering the Greek market
American Community Schools of Athens (ACS
7232771. Kantor Omirou & Vissarionos 1, tel. 210 7297500, Athens) Agias Paraskevis 129, Ano Halandri, tel. 210
Israel Marathonodromou 1, Psichiko, tel. 210 American-Hellenic Chamber of Commerce Meso- www.kantor.gr. Business consultants with an international 6393200, fax 210 6390051, www.acs.gr.
gion 109, tel. 210 6993559, www.amcham.gr. presence.
6719530. Byron College 7 Filolaou St, Gargitos Geraka, tel. 210
Italy Sekeri 2, Kolonaki, tel. 210 3617260. Athens Exchange Athinon 110, tel. 210 3366800, KPMG Stratigou Tombra 3, Agia Paraskevi, tel. 210 6047722, fax 210 6048542, www.byroncollege.gr.
Japan Papadiamanti 21, Psichiko, tel. 210 www.ase.gr. 6062100, www.kpmg.gr. Auditing, accounting, business
6709900. consultancy, the global way. Campion School Agias Ioulianis, Pallini, tel. 210
Netherlands Vasileos Konstantinou 5-7, tel. Athens Chamber of Commerce and Industry 6071700, fax 210 6071750, www.campion.edu.gr.
Akadimias 7-9, tel. 210 3604815, www.acci.gr. Manpower Xenofontos 9, tel. 210 3240200, www.
210 7254900. manpowerteam.gr. Recruitment services by the global Ellinogermaniki Agogi (German) Doukisis Plakentias
Nor way Vasilissis Sof ias 23, tel. 210 Athens Tourism & Economic Development Com- experts. 25, Halandri, tel. 210 6853220, fax 210 6821953, www.
7246173. pany G6, Xenofontos 7, MSyntagma, tel. 210 3253123, ellinogermaniki.gr.
Poland Chryssanthemon 22, Psichiko, tel. fax 210 3216653, info@atedco.gr. Sarantitis Law Firm Anagnostopoulou 9, tel. 210
210 6797700. 3670400, www.sarantitis.com. A legal firm specialising French-Greek School Trikalon & Chlois, Agia Paraske-
British Hellenic Chamber of Commerce Vasilissis in all areas of business law vi, tel. 210 6012704.
Romania Emmanouil Benaki 7, Psichiko, tel. Sofias 25, tel. 210 7210361, www.bhcc.gr.
210 6728875. SOL SA Fokionos Negri 3, tel. 210 8691100, www. International School of Athens (ISA) Xenias &
Russia Nikiforou Lytra 28, Psichiko, tel. 210 General Secretariat for Investment and Develop- solae.gr. The largest Greek accounting & auditing firm with Artemidos, Kefalari, Kifissia, tel. 210 6233888, info@
6725235. ment Nikis 5-7, tel. 210 3332402, www.ggea.gr/ offices all over the country isa.edu.gr, www.isa.edu.gr
Serbia Vasilissis Sof ias 106, tel. 210 index_en.htm.
Italian School Mitsaki 18, tel. 210 2280338, www.
7774344. German-Hellenic Chamber of Commerce and Foreign Institutes scuolaitalianathene.edu.gr.
Slovakia Georgiou Seferi 4, Psichiko, tel. 210 Industry Dorileou 10-12, tel. 210 6419000, http://
6771980. griechenland.ahk.de/. British Council Kolonaki Sq, MSyntagma, Evange- Polish Community School Navarinou 19, Holargos,
South Africa Kifisias 60, Marousi, tel. 210 lismos, tel. 210 3692333, fax 210 3634769, www. tel. 210 6538204.
6106645. Hellenic-Dutch Association of Commerce and In- britishcouncil.gr.
dustry Kifisou 102, tel. 210 5384177, www.heda.gr. St Catherine’s British Embassy School Sofokli
Spain Dionysiou Areopagitou 21, tel. 210 Cervantes Institute Skoufa 31, tel. 210 3634117, fax Venizelou 73, Kifisia, tel. 210 2829750, administrator@
9213123. Hellenic-Chinese Chamber Amerikis 10, tel. 210 210 3647233, dirate@cervantes.es. stcatherines.gr, www.stcatherines.gr.
Sweden Vasileos Konstantinou 5-7, tel. 210 3629052, www.chinese-chamber.gr/.
7266100. French Institute Sina 31, MPanepistimio, tel. 210 Real estate
Switzerland Iasiou 2, tel. 210 7230364. Hellenic Center for Investment Mitropoleos 3, tel. 3398600, fax 210 3646873, www.ifa.gr.
210 3355700, www.elke.gr. Remax Hellas Adrianiou 42, Neo Psichiko, tel. 210
Turkey Vasileos Geor giou 8, tel. 210 Goethe Institute Omirou 15, MPanepistimio, tel. 210 6753417, info@remax.gr, www.remax.gr.
7263000. Hellenic Foreign Trade Board Marinou Antipa 86-88, 3661000, fax 210 3643518, gi@athen.goethe.org,
UK Ploutarhou 1, tel. 210 7272600. Ilioupoli, tel. 210 9982100, www.hepo.gr. www.goethe.de/athen.
USA Vasilissis Sofias 91, tel. 210 7212951-
Hellenic Ministy of Economy and Finance Nikis 5-7, Hellenic American Union Massalias 22, Kolonaki, €1 = $1.30
9. (July 28 2010)
tel. 210 3332000, www.mnec.gr/en. MPanepistimio, tel. 210 3680000, fax 210 3633174,
hau@hau.gr, www.hau.gr.

Athens In Your Pocket athens.inyourpocket.com athens.inyourpocket.com August - September 2010


74 directory maps 75

Hospitals
Public Accidents’ Hospitals
Asklipieio Voulas Vasileos Pavlou 1,Voula, tel. 210
8958301.

KAT Nikis 2, Kifisia, MKAT, tel. 210 6280000.


Public General Hospitals
Evangelismos Ypsilantou 45-47, MEvangelismos,
tel. 210 7201000.

Geniko Kratiko ‘Gennimatas’ Mesogion 154,


MEthniki Amyna, tel. 210 7768000.

Ippokratio Vasilissis Sofias 114, MAmpelokipi, tel.


210 7483770.

Laiko A giou Th oma 17, MAmpelokipi, tel. 210


7456000.

Tzanio Afen touli & Tzani 1, Pira eu s, tel. 210


4519411.

Public Children’s Hospitals


Agia Sofia Thivon & Papadiamandopoulou, Goudi,
tel. 210 7726000.

Aglaia Kyriakou Thivon & Levadias, Goudi, tel. 210


7726000.
Athens metro map
Maternity Hospitals
Travel Agencies
Alexandra Vasilissis Sofias 80, MMegaro Mousikis,
tel. 210 7750432. Viamare E8, Missaraliotou 2, Makrigianni, MAcropolis,
tel. 210 9228930-2, fax 210 9228940, info@allyeart-
Elena Venizelou Elena Venizelou Sq, MAmpelokipi, ravel.gr, www.allyeartravel.gr. This is a small independent
tel. 210 6432220. travel agency run by young people who will go out of their way
to satisfy all your travel needs around the country. Accom- TRAVEL
Iaso Kifisias 37-39, tel. 210 6184000. modation, tours & cruises, sightseeing, ferry tickets and last BOOKSTORE
but not least: objective and independent advice.
Leto Mouson 7-13, tel. 210 6902000.
Get inspired to explore!
Mitera Ki fisias 7 Eri throu Stavrou 6, tel. 210
6899421. Learn Greek online: It’s free! roAd travel bookstore offers a great variety
www.ellinika.org of maps & travel guides for every corner of
the planet.
www.xanthi.ilsp.gr/filog
Removals
Mondial Forwarding Hellas 20th km National road take advantage of the 20% discount offer
Athens-Korinthos, Elefsina, tel. 210 5540907, www. for the readers of Athens In your Pocket
mondialtransport.com.
Emergency numbers (applies to ROAD Editions titles only)
Orphee Beinoglou Syngrou & Evripidou 2, Kallithea,
tel. 210 9466100, www.beinoglou.gr. Aiport Police 210 3536919.
Ambulance 166.
Coast Guard 108.
Sailing Charter Companies ELPA (roadside assistance) 10400. 71, solonos street
Kiriakoulis Mediterranean Alimou 7, Alimos, tel. 210 Fire Service 199. tel: 210 3613242
9886187-91, fax 210 9818979, charter@kiriacoulis. Hospitals, Doctors, Pharmacies Info 14944. fax: 210 3614681
com, www.kiriacoulis.com. Police 100. www.road.gr
SOS Doctors 1016. e-mail: bookstore@road.gr
Vernicos Yachts Poseidonos 11, Alimos, tel. 210 Tourist Police 171.
9896000, fax 210 9850130, info@vernicos.gr, www. Traffic Police 210 5230111.
vernicos.com.

Athens In Your Pocket athens.inyourpocket.com athens.inyourpocket.com August - September 2010


map 1
82 Index
E D I T I O N S
ABI (air business Bits and Bytes 66 Foundation of the Hellenic Kazarma 48 Pasta la vista 36
international) 67 Black Rose 71 World 62 Kerameikos Museum 57 Pedion tou Areos 64
AB Vassilopoulos 71 Blues 43 France 72 Kioupia 34 Piraeus Bank 72 MAINLAND GREECE
Achilleas 24 Blue Train Café 48 French-Greek School 73 Kiriakoulis Mediterranean 74 Poland 72
Acropolis Museum Café 40 BNP Paribas 72 French Institute 73 Klepsidra 41 Polish Community School 73 1:250.000
Acropolis Museum Hotel 26 BoBaYo 46 Galaxy Bar 44 Kona Kai 30 Pop 45
Acropolis Select 26 Booze 40 Galaxy Bar (Hilton hotel) 44 Kosta 38 Postal Museum 59
Adecco 73 Boschetto 36 Gallery Café 40 Kostas 38 Postal Savings Bank 72
Aegean 67 Brettos 43 Gazaki 44 KPMG 73 Presidential Palace 61
Aiolis 40 British Council 73 GSID 72 Krinos 41 Prime Minister 73
Alatsi 31 British Hellenic Chamber of German-Hellenic Chamber of KTEL (intercity buses) 66 Railway Museum 59
Alcatraz 47 Commerce 72 Commerce and Industry 72 Kuzina 32 Ratka 30
Aleria 32 Bulgaria 72 Germanos 69 Lalibela 31 Rebecca 39
Alexander Sauna 48 Buses and Trolleybuses 65 Germany 72 Lalu 30 Red Indian 30 MUNICIPALITIES & CAPITAL CITIES
A Lier Man 42 Butcher 36 Ginger Ale 40 Lamda Club 48 Remax Hellas 73
Alley Cat 42 Byron College 73 Global Business Services 73 La Pasteria 35 Revaizi 31
All Year Travel 74 Byzantine and Christian Glykis 37 Ledra Marriott 23 Rififi 32
Alpha Bank 72 Museum 56 Goethe Institute 73 Lefteris (o Politis) 38 Rock n' Roll 45
Ambariza 42 Cachica Club 43 Golden Age 24 Livadia 38 Romania 72
American Community Camper 71 Goulandris Museum of L'osteria Da Claudio 35 Royal Olympic 25
Schools of Athens 73 Campion School 73 Cycladic and Ancient Greek Magaze 41 Rozalia 34
American-Hellenic Chamber Canada 72 Art 56 Magna Grecia 25 Russia 72
of Commerce 72 Canteen 36 Granazi 48 ManiMani 32 Saint George Lycabettus 23
American Markets 71 Capu 43 Grande Bretagne 22 Manpower 73 Salero 37
ANEK LINES 68 Cecil 28 Grand Ritorno 47 Marfin Egnatia Bank 72 Sarantitis Law Firm 73
Apivita 71 Celia Kritharioti 70 Habiba 29 Melia Athens 25 Sardeles 39
Aristokratikon 71 Cellier Le Bistot 31 Hard Rock Café 29 Melissinos 70 Second Skin 46
Astir Palace 22 Central 30 Hellenic American Union 73 Mespilea 32 Semiramis 23 SPECIAL EDITIONS
ATE Bank 72 Cervantes Institute 73 Hellenic Center for Metropolis 28 Serbetia tou Psirri 41
Athens Backpackers 28 Chez Lucien 31 Investment 72 Milos 32 Serbia 72
Athens Central Market China 72 Hellenic Children's Museum Molly Malone's 44 Seven Jokers 45
(Varvakeios) 71 Church of Aghioi Theodoroi 62 Mondial Forwarding Hellas 74 Six D.O.G.S. 45
Athens Centre 73 60 Hellenic-Chinese Chamber 72 Museum of Greek Folk Art 58 Skoufaki 41
Athens Chamber of Church of Panaghia Hellenic-Dutch Association of Mus. of the Ancient Agora 58 SOL SA 73
Commerce and Industry 72 Kapnikarea 60 Commerce and Industry 72 Museum of Traditional South Africa 72
Athens City Hall 60 Cilentio 32 Foreign Trade Board 72 Musical Instruments 58 Spain 72
Athens Exchange 72 Circus 43 Hellenic Ministy of Economy Nargile 37 Spyros Vassiliou Museum 59
Athens Hilton 22 Citibank 72 and Finance 72 Archaeological Museum 56 Stavlos 41
Athens Lotus 26 Classical 2, Fashion House Hell's Kitchen 30 National Bank 72 St Catherine's School 73 1:425.000
Athens Metropolitan Hotel 26 Hera 24 National Gardens café 41 Sweden 72
Cathedral 60 Classical King George 22 Herodion 25 National Glyptotheque 58 Swing 45
Athens Sports Bar 42 Club Hotel Casino Loutraki 22 Hondos Center 69 National Historical Museum Taverna tou Psirri 34 GREEK MOUNTAINS 1:50.000
Athens Stock Exchange 60 Collectors shop 69 House of Parliament (Vouli) 60 58 Telis 36
Athens Tourism & Economic Commonwealth cemetery 61 Hoxton 44 National Library - Athens Temple of Olympian Zeus 53
Development Company 72 Compendium 70 HSBC 72 Academy - Athens University Thanassis 38
AthenStyle 28 Copa Copana 62 Hungary 72 60 The Art Foundation (TAF) 46
Athinaios 36 Crudo 43 Iapetos 71 National Theatre 60 The Athens Gate 26
Athiri 32 Cubanita 46 Ilias 33 Natural History Museum 62 The James Joyce 46
Attalos 26 Czech Republic 72 Ilias Lalaounis Jewelry Naxos 37 The National Gallery 59
Attica 69 Da Capo 40 Museum 57 Netherlands 72 Tirbouson 33
Attica Zoological Park 62 Damigos (Bakaliarakia) 33 Inoteka 41 New Benaki Museum 58 Titania 26
Australia 72 Diammond Dolls 47 International Business Nikitas 38 To Kafeneio 34
Austria 72 Dioskouroi Café 40 Services 73 Nipiagogeio 44 Toy Bar 46
Ava 24 Doris 33 In Town 37 Nixon 44 Tram 65
Avalon 30 Dowlings Solicitors 73 Intrepid Fox 44 Norway 72 Travel Plan 74
Baba Au Rum 42 El Bandoneon 30 Ioannis 32 Numismatic Museum 59 Triantafyllo tis nostimias 34
Baby Gold 47 Electra 24 Ippopotamos 44 OASA (urban transportation) Tribeca 46
Baby O 47 Electra Palace 23 Ireland 72 info 66 Tudor Hall 34
Bairaktaris 38 Ellinogermaniki Agogi ) 73 Islamic Art Museum 57 O&B Boutique 23 Turkey 72
Balthazar 30 Epigraphical Museum 56 Island 46 O'Connell's 44 Turkish Baths 61 GREEK ISLANDS 1:20.000 - 1:100.000
Bank Of Greece 60 Eridanus 24 Israel 72 Old House of Parliament 61 Tzitzikas and Mermigas 34
Bank of Greece 72 Esperia Palace (Best Italy 72 Olive Garden -Titania Hotel 37 UK 72
Barbara's Food Company 32 Western) 24 Jackson Fish 39 Omiros 26 USA 72
Barbounaki 39 Ethnikon 40 Jackson Hall 29 Orizontes 37 Vernicos Yachts 74
Bartesera 42 Eurobank 72 Japan 72 Orphee Beinoglou 74 Vinilio 47
Belafonte 42 Fair Consulting 73 Jewish Museum 57 OSE (Greek Railways) info 66 Vitrine Summer 47
Belgium 72 FC&D 73 Kafeneio Thissio 41 Ouzou Melathron 37 Wagamama 30
Benaki Museum 56 Ferries departure info 66 Kallisti Gefsis 32 Pairidaeza 44 Wine Garage 71
Benaki Museum Gift Shop 70 Filion 40 Kanella 32 Pan 28 Yantes 33
Big 48 First cemetry of Athens 61 Kantor 73 Pano Kato 36 Zappeion 61
Big Apple 42 Fivos 28 Kappari 33 Parliament 73 Zappeion Garden 64
Bios 42 Folli Follie 70 Kavouras 38 Pasaji 37

Tell us what you think We’re all ears!


about our guide:

athens@inyourpocket.com ROAD EDitiOns s.A. 21, Kozanis Str., 118 55 Athens, Greece, Tel.: +30 210 3455575, Fax: +30 210 3455565, road@road.gr
tRAvEl BOOkstORE 71, Solonos Str., Athens, Greece, Tel.: +30 210 3613242, Fax: +30 210 3614681, bookstore@road.gr
E-shOp: www.road.gr
Athens In Your Pocket athens.inyourpocket.com