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Subject: Principles of pattern making

Unit 7 Collars

Quadrant 1 – E-text

Welcome to the unit 7.

This unit comprises of 7 modules,

Module 1 is about the basic of collar like collar terminology, types of collars
etc.

Module 2 is flat collar drafting. In this module step by step instruction to
make flat collar is explained. In Module 3 we are going to make convertible
collar patterns. Module 4 explains how to make shirt collar with collar stand.
In module 5 full roll collar drafting will be explained. Module 6 will explain
how to draft shawl collar and its variation and Module 7 will discuss about
the notched collar and its variation. The review section that invites you to
reflect on what you have learnt.

Learning Objectives

The learning objectives of this unit are to:

 Review collar terminologies and different types of collars.
 Develop drafts for basic collars.
 Describe different roll types.
 Explain the difference between convertible and non-convertible collars.
 Review different grain lines in the collar.
 Develop a draft for shawl and notched collar.
7.1 Collar Basics

This module comprises of 3 topics are: Collar terms, Collar stand and roll
types and Collar classifications.

Collar Terms
Neckline Edge

It is Side of the collar which is attached to the garment neckline. It should
match with the garment neckline.
Notches should be marked on the neckline edge to match correspondence
notch in the garment to achieve perfectly balance collar.

Collar Edge / Style line

The outer edge of the collar is called collar edge. One can create many
designs in the collar edge. It is also called as style line. Notches are marked
if necessary.

Collar Stand

Collar rise from the neck level at center back is called collar stand. While
deciding the collar stand wearers comfort should be considered. Some collar
designs like mandarin collar have only stand. Collar like Peter pan will not
have any stand. Some collar like shawl has both stand and fall. 1” collar
stand is commonly used in many designs.

Fall

It is the part of collar that extends from top of the collar stand, it turn back
and covers the stand and neckline seam. Mostly the fall measurement should
be bigger than stand.
Roll Line

Roll line is the folding line formed when collar fall turns down.

Break Point

It is point at which a lapel turns back on itself.

Upper collar

It is the outer or visible part of the collar.

Under collar

The inner or underside of the collar. The seam line of the style line should be
roll to underside. This will produce neat look and seam line will be hidden.
This can be achieved adding 1/16” to 1/8” based on fabric thickness on the
upper collar or removing 1/16” to 1/8” to under collar. This should be done
only on the style line / collar edge. Many readymade manufactures use same
pattern for both upper and under collar to faster production.

Collar Stand and Roll Types

The collar neckline shape determines the collar stand and roll. You can see
the comparison of different collar neckline.

Flat

These collar produce 1/8” stand just to cover the garment neckline. The fall
will cover the body parts and it has deeper concave shape in the neckline.

It allows one to create various style lines in the collar edges. Peter pan
collar, Bertha collar and sailor collars are commonly used flat collars.

Partial Roll

It produce ½” stand at back. The neckline will be concave shape but not
deeper like flat collar.
Full Roll

It produce 1” stand and the fall will cover the stand and neckline.

Collar Classifications

Convertible

These collars can be worn as closed collar or open collar.
Non-Convertible

It is either open collar or closed collar, for example, Notch collar.

.2 Flat Collar

Peter Pan Collar

In the collar style line the ends are rounded then it is called Peter Pan collar.
The rounded edge may be given only in the front or both front and back if
the style has back opening.
Peter pan collar may be designed with pointed, scallops or rounded also.
Upper collar should roll under to hide the seam at the style line. Upper Collar
draft may be 1/16” to ⅛” bigger than under collar to achieve this effect. But
many readymade garment manufacturers use upper collar and under collar
as same for faster production.

Bertha Collar

A Bertha collar is a wide, flat collar that extent to the shoulders or it may go
beyond shoulders. Mostly it is designed with rounded style line, but it may
designed with a v-shape at the opening. One can increase the neck width if
required.

Sailor Collar

Sailor collar is another flat collar which has V shape at the front opening and
square shape at the back. Front neckline also changed to V shape according
to the collar shape.
7.3 Convertible Collars

One Piece Convertible

The name itself says this collar can be converted. This can be worn as closed
with close button at neck or it may open worn as open which create lapel
effect. This collar is similar to roll collar except there is a shape from
neckline to center front. This collar is used on blouses, dresses and suits.
Two Piece Convertible

This is similar to convertible collar but it has upper and under collar. The
under collar may be reduced to 1/16” to ⅛” than upper collar to roll under
the style line seam.
7.4 Convertible Collars

Mandarin Collar

Mandarin is a narrow standing up front the garment neckline. It is usually 1”
to 1 ½” wide. Since the width is smaller this collar stand and it won’t fall.
This can be designed to center front or till placket edge with overlap and
with button and buttonhole closure. Sometime this may be designed away
from center font. The collar stand width may be reduced at center front. This
collar may be designed for basic neckline or lowered neckline. This collar
also known as Chinese collar, Nehru collar, or Military collar. The end may be
square or rounded.

Collar with Stand

It is most commonly used in shirt. It is drafted collar and band separately.
The band will extend till the placket edge and will have button and
buttonhole closure. The band will stand and collar will fall along the roll line.
The collar width will be at least ½” bigger than stand width so that it will
cover the band and neckline seam. This collar is mostly designed with
pointed at front but it may be designed as round, scallops.
7.5 Full Roll Collar

Basic Full Roll Collar

The Basic full roll collar has full stand and fall at center back and the roll is
reduced to zero at center front. The collar width is limited to neck length due
to wearers comfort. Usually, the style line will be straight. These collars may
found in T shirts.

Bias Full Roll Collar

A Bias full-roll collar has an equal amount of stand and fall which fits around
the neck. This may be designed with open at center back or center front with
zipper or button and buttonhole closures. It may be designed without
opening if the neck is lowered or the fabric is stable and allow the head pass
through. The folded width should not more than 4” due to wearers comfort.
This collar also referred to as a turtleneck collar or a rolled-band collar.

7.6 Shawl Collar

Shawl Collar Narrow Variation

In shawl collar, collar and reverse or lapel cut in one piece. It can only be
worn open. It may be created with different style lines. It is commonly found
in many garments.
Shawl Collar Wide Variation

The fall will be extended to shoulder or beyond for style variation.

7.7 Notched Collar

Two Piece Notch Collar

A notched collar is a two piece collar that can only be worn open. It consists
of a lapel or revere, which is usually cut in one with the garment and a
collar, which meets the lapel resulting in a notch. Notched collars are used in
all garment categories from tailored coats and to suits to evening wear.
Notched Collar for Lowered Necklines

This is a variation of notched collar. In this the neckline is lowered. It may
be worn with one or two buttons sometimes without buttons.
Notched Collar away from Neck

It is another variation of notched collar. The neck width is increased so that
the collar will be wide. It is also used in many garments.
Double Breasted Notched Collar

This design has two set of button and buttonhole closures. These designs
have more overlap at front. Style line may be designed with pointed or
rounded edge.
Notched Collar in Wide and Cape Variations

It is another variation of notch collar. The fall will be spread over shoulder.
These designs will have bigger fall. It may go beyond shoulder to create
cape effect.