Localized dyeing is called printing

key purpose of printing

More attraction could be produced by this system of dyeing due to the following
characteristics

 multi coloured pattern

 to fulfill design approach

Textile printing can be carried out using either dyes or pigments. The decision
on which to use is made on the basis of
 the particular design to be printed
 the nature of the fabric
 the intended end use

Method of printing

 Block printing
 Roller printing
 Screen printing
 Transfer printing
 Other ( batik , tie and die etc )
Screen printing
 A method in which background of design is printed on screen with paste
and dye /pigment is printed through exposed fabric.
 It is a process that uses a stencil or screen made o f silk, polyester,
polyamide, or nickel mashes through which the printing paste is
transferred to fabric .
 The screen is coated in certain areas of block the total transfer of the
paste and it is stretched over dimensionally stable frames (usually made
of light metal alloys).
 screen came in various mesh sizes to match the type of fabrics(for
example course or fine ) used and desired print designs
 separate screen should used for each colour .

Types of screen printing

screen printing

hand screen printing rotary screen

flat screen printing
printing
ROTARY SCREEN PRINTING

In rotary-screen printing, continuous rotation of a cylindrical screen while in

contact with the fabric ensures genuinely continuous printing. Print paste is fed
into the inside of the screen, and during printing is forced out through the design
areas with the aid of a stationary squeegee.

The design of most machines follows the pattern established for fully automatic
flat screen machines: an endless driven blanket, screen positions along the top,
and blanket washing and drying effected underneath during the return passage.
Provision for the use of a thermoplastic adhesive is common on rotary machines,
with a curved-surface heating plate to heat the fabric before it is pressed on to
the blanket. The cylindrical screens can be much closer together than is possible
with flat screens and so the blanket is shorter (for a given number of colors). The
fabric dryer, however, must be longer to enable the printed fabric to be
adequately dried at higher running speeds. Typically, speeds of 30–70 m min–1
are used depending on the design and the fabric quality. It is quite possible to
run the machine faster than this, the limitations often being the length and
efficiency of the cloth and blanket dryers and the difficulty of observing Printing
faults at high running speeds. Print paste is often poured into flat screens by
hand, even in fully automatic machines, but the continuous movement of a
cylindrical screen and the restricted access necessitates automation of this
operation. The print paste is pumped into the screen through a flexible pipe
from a container at the side of the machine; inside the screen, the paste pipe has
a rigid structure as it also acts as a support for the squeegee. Holes in the pipe
allow the paste to run down into the bottom of the screen; since the paste is
pumped in from one end, the holes need to be larger at the end furthest from
the pump to achieve an even spread across the full width of the screen. A sensor
(level control) actuates the pump when the paste level falls below a preset
height.

Continuous screen printing process

o Fabric glued to blanket

o Fabric moves under rotating screens
o Rod or blade squeegee system
o Fine adjustments easily made
o Speeds up to 100 yards per min

Advantages
· Fast

· Quick changeover of patterns

· Continuous patterns
Disadvantages
· Design limitations

· Small repeats

styles of printing

1) Direct style
2) Resist style
3) Discharge style
4) Discharge resist style

1) Direct style
colour for designs are applied directly on to the fabric without further treatment
.

2) Resist style
In this method the fabric is first printed with a substance called resist which will
prevent the dye from being taken up in a subsequent dyeing process
the resist function either by :

 Mechanically preventing the dye from reaching local areas of the fabric
(using substances such as waxes, fats and resins as well as inert
substance such as china clay, lead sulphate and barium sulphate all of
which prevent absorption of the dye by the fabric.)
 chemically reacting with the dye or fiber ,to prevent absorption (using a
wide variety of compounds such as acids , alkalis. neutral salts ,oxidizing
agent and reducing agents ) .
3) Discharge style
In this method fabric is pre dyed to a solid shade by a traditional dyeing
process and the color is destroyed locally, be chemical (usually a reducing
agent) incorporated in print paste especially for print purpose.
The choice of the reducing agent depends on
 the dyes being used
 the fiber being printed

4) Discharge resist printing

The fabric is dyed with resist dyes and then it’s is printed with non resistible
dyes.
PRINTING
In Nina textile there are 3 m/c of REGGIANI having max fabric length 120” ,
98”and 75” and length is 30 meter . On Printing 1 16 colors can be printed and
On Printing 2 and 3 12 colors can be printed at a time.
· Production is 12 hour is 16-17 thousand meter .

CAM CAD:
The design given by the customer may be on a paper or directly they given a
sample fabric to the cad cam department they scan the design in the computer.

Software used:
 Ram Set
 Photoshop......Lucher
 Stork
After the approval of the design by the customer design is sent to the engraving
department.

Screen Coating:
The screen is made up of 100% nickel. Screen is coated with coated material SCR
64 or SCR 61. Screen is coated upside down for 15-30 min at high temp over 180-
200c and left for dry about 10-30 min.

Screen exposing:
There are 2 machine of exposing screen such as

 Wax exposing machine.

Contain black wax which fired on the screen. When light strikes on the screen
Wax become hard.

 Laser exposing.
Laser light bombarded. SCR 102+101 coat is used only curing, exposing and
endering.
Types of sheets/mashes for screen:
1. Standard 30,40,60,80
2. Panda 100,125,125 V, 155,155 DHL, 165 mesh
3. Nova 135,135 DHL, 165,195 mesh.

Repeats:
1. 640 mm
2. 819 mm
3. 914 mm

Recipe:
 Thickener
 Liquor
 Binder
 Water
 Pigment

For reactive:
 Urea
 Sodium bi carbonate
 Alginate
 Revatol
Process flow:

Entry Printing Dryer Exit

Components of machine:
 Entry
 Testa (only for knitted fabric)
 Suction(blour)
 Flat rollers
 Trolley

Printing zone
 Sensor
 Conveyor belt washing
 Dryer
The fabric is passes through guide screen rollers to the suction area here the
sucker sucks thefabric fluff and dust particles. Flats are provided when we use
knit fabric. The fabric enters into the trolley where PVA is applied to stick he
fabric with the blanket belt. The machine is provided with an I.R system and
cambered plate to give temperature to the thermoplastic glue. Then the fabric
enters into the printing zone. The fabric is sandwiched b/w the rollers and the
blanket, magnetic system of printing is used.
Color is dozed into the squeegee through pumps automatically. The first screen
roller is to press the fabric and the second gathers the remaining fluff. The
printing starts from the third screen. Each screen prints a single color. The
number of the screen depends on the type of design.
The sensor is used to control the speed of the blanket. The fabric than entered
into compact HC dryer 160-210 c. the dryer has 5 burners. The dryer has three
passages air is blown into the chambers 2 times. Finally the fabric is collected by
a crank gear mechanism to a trolley.

Parameters:
 Machine name REGGIANI
 Made Italy
 Max. speed 90 m/min
 dryer temperature 215°C