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Kheerganga: Trekking To A
Himalayan Heaven Of The
Restless Souls

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Kheerganga is a vast camping ground perched

in the middle of the mountains in the famous
Parvati Valley of Himachal Pradesh. It attracts
a lot of tourists during the tourist season of 7-8
months from March to November every year.
Although people used to hike till Kheerganga
throughout the year, but the main tourist
season is from March to November only. It
requires an ordeal of 12-kms trek on a
relatively easy trekking trek to reach
Kheerganga from the nearest motorable road.
Since, the trek is fairly easy and takes 4-5
hours to reach there at Kheerganga, this trek
is one of the most popular trek in the
Himalayas.

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Kheerganga Camping Ground

But, being a fairly easy trek doesn’t deprived

one from the breathtaking natural beauties. It
is a actually a prefect packaged destination for
many. It has a wide camping ground
surrounded by the Himalayan Mountains, a
temple dedicated to Lord Mahadeva, a natural
hot spring with an artificial swimming pool and
splendid beauty of nature in every direction.
During the tourist season, the villagers from
the lower areas arrive here to operate their
makeshift guesthouses, restaurants and small
shops. Suddenly, in the beginning of March,
Kheerganga looks alive with the beautiful
souls from all around the country.

The heavy rush of tourists comprises the

variety of people- the restless souls searching
their inner peace in the Himalayas, the hikers
wishing to hike on an easy trail, the pilgrims
expecting to get the company of Lord
Mahadeva and the youth wishing to enjoy the
best quality puff in the region. The charm of
Kheerganga attracts thousands of souls every
year, however, the truth is that majority of
tourists arrive here to enjoy the fine quality
Puff (Hashish) at cheaper prices. In the
evening, when darkness prevails outside, an
aura of light and music appears inside the
large common rooms of guesthouses , the

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atmosphere gets soaked with smoke of the

Puffs and multiple rounds of drinks. At that
time, Kheerganga or for that matter, many
places in Parvati Valley, turned into the last
crusader of the Hippie Movement in India.
Then it appears that we have arrived in the era
of the Hippies, where everyone is busy in his
own cocoon, escaping the brutal corporate
world outside.

Trek to Kheerganga: It is one the easiest yet

the very beautiful trek in the Himalayas. The
trek starts from the Barsheni Village in Parvati
Valley , a small village approx. 16 kms away
from Kasol and 12 kms from Manikaran. It
takes almost 4-5 hours of comfortable hike to
cover the distance of 12 kms from Barsheni
Village to the Kheerganga Camping Site. The
trek can be commenced in the early morning,
and it is possible to return to Barsheni or even
Kasol, after spending few hours at
Kheerganga on the same day. However, it is
advisable to spend at least a night at the
camping site to enjoy the beautiful
surrounding.

Barsheni Village on the Right and Pulga

Village on the Left Side of the River

Night Stay Before The Trek: The trek to

Kheerganga starts from Barsheni, but the
chances are very rare that you find any

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accommodation at Barsheni on the previous

night of the trek. It is better to spend night in
other villages around Barsheni, as Barsheni
has very few options for the night
accommodation. The other alternate options
are:

Kasol /Manikaran: It takes almost 45 minutes

to reach Barsheni from Manikaran and almost
1 hour from Kasol by a public bus. It is
possible to spend a night at Kasol or
Manikaran and then catch an early morning
bus to Barsheni, from where you can start the
trek as soon as possible. Kasol is a crowded
place and always remains in party mood with
lot of youngsters. Manikaran is a religious
destination, again crowded with many pilgrims.
But, both have plenty of accommodation
choices. If you want to stay away from the
crowd of both places, it is better to move
deeper in Parvati Valley and spend a night at
Pulga, Kalga or Tosh Village, and of course
Barsheni Village.

Barsheni Village: There is an under

construction dam on the Parvati River outside
the village of Barsheni. The trekking trail to
Kheerganga starts right after the dam site. So,
it is very convenient to stay at Barsheni
Village. However, the accommodation options
at Barsheni are very limited (Probably 2-3
Guest Houses only). Also, Barsheni doesn’t
offer the feel of a Himalayan Town/Village like
the other villages in the region.

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Dam Site near Barsheni Village

Tosh Village: Tosh is approx 2.5-3 kms further

away from Barsheni Village and has plenty of
accommodation options. Even during the high
season, getting an accommodation at Tosh
should not be a problem. But, being a favourite
option among the crowd, Tosh is more costly
than the other villages. Also, when you stay at
Tosh in the night, you have to descend for at
least 2 kms in the morning, to the dam site at
Barsheni, from where you can proceed further
towards Kheerganga.

View of Tosh Village

A direct trail from Tosh is also there to proceed

towards Kheerganga, but I don’t have any idea
on that. I heard that trail is a bit difficult and
merges with the main trail near Nakthan
village en-route to Kheerganga.

Pulga Village: Pulga village is on the other

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bank of Parvati River, just opposite to Barsheni

Village. Although it has a lot of
accommodation options, but getting a room
can be difficult during the heavy rush. It
requires 1.5-2 kms walk through the dam to
reach Pulga from Barsheni Village. If you stay
there at Pulga, you have to come to the dam
site again to start the trek to Kheerganga.

Pulga Village across Parvati River

Kalga Village: My favourite option for the

night stay is Kalga village. It is situated on an
upward slope on the right side of the dam site,
approx. 10 minutes from the dam. It is less
crowded as compared to the other villages and
has plenty of the homestays and the
guesthouses.

One hiking trail goes directly from the Kalga

village towards the Kheerganga. In case, you
stay at Kalga, there is no need to return to the
dam in the morning, instead, you can proceed
directly towards Kheerganga on that trail. It
reduces the distance by 1 km at least. This
trail merges with the main trail of Kheerganga
after 2 hours of walk. Interestingly, very few
people prefer this trail to Kheerganga. The
main trail that starts from the dam proceeds
along the river, however, the trail starting from
Kalga proceeds on a hill in the middle of the

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pristine forest. Multiple shops are available at

both the routes, where you can get the
breakfast and other things to eat.

Kalga Village clicked from the hiking trail

I hiked to Kheerganga via Kalga village and

returned to Barsheni via Nakthan Village
following the most preferred trail. Personally, I
find the trail from Kalga is more beautiful and
challenging than the one starts from the dam
site. This trail is leading through the dense
forests, sometimes being alone in a thickly
vegetated section feels scary on this trail. A
beautiful waterfall is also on the way. The
route is a bit confusing at 2-3 places, but
overall it is a well marked trail. The trail that
starts from the dam is in very good condition
and there is no chance of getting lost.

Signboard reminding the hikers to be

careful

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First Sight of Kheerganga

Plenty of options are available for breakfast

and other meals. Although the trekking season
started from March in the Parvati Valley, but it
reaches at its peak after the mid April only. So,
I found many shops are either closed or just
started 1-2 days prior to my trek.

The Kheerganga trek is fairly easy. Although

the trek length is almost 12 kms, but it is easily
doable in 4-5 hours at the comfortable pace.
After reaching Kheerganga, you have mainly 3
types of accommodation options:

The Wooden Room: Three person can easily

stay in this room. Rent is Rs 500 per night for
a room. The rooms are equipped with wooden
takhats(platform) and bathroom/toilet is in
common area for all.

The Tin Shade Rooms: The per night charge

is Rs. 300 for a single room. Mat and blanket
is available, but you have to unfold them on
the room floor. No cot or takhat is available.
3-4 persons can stay together in a room.

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Accommodation Options at Kheerganga

A Large Hall: Few guest houses at

Kheerganga has a big hall, like a dormitory,
where you can occupy a space on a wooden
platform in any corner and charge is Rs. 100
per night. A single halls can accommodate
30-40 persons. In the night, you get a blanket
to brave the cold and if it still feels too cold,
probably one more blanket subject to the
availability.

Large Dormitory Hall at a Guest House

Apart from these, you can independently pitch

your own tent anywhere on the vast camping
ground at Kheerganga.

Hot Spring at Kheerganga: The hot spring

situated near the temple is considered as very
sacred. Most of the people prefer to bath in the
hot spring after a long tiring trek. A large pool
has been erected for the bathing purpose.
There is a wooden enclosure to separate the
ladies pool from the gents. You are expected

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to wash your body through the another water

pipes before entering the main pool. The pool
has a magical effect on the tired body. All the
tiredness of the journey vanishes immediately.
After the 4 hours of trek, it feels like a natural
spa surrounded by the mighty peaks of the
Himalayas.

Hot Spring/ Bathing Pool

A lot of ashes like particles are visibly floating

in the pool. These floating particles have a
great relation with the mythology of
Kheerganga and its nomenclature.

The Mythology: It is believed that Lord

Kartikeya, the son of Lord Shiva and Goddess
Parvati, meditated here for many thousand
years. Mahadev and Parvati used to visit this
site once in a while and Parvati used to cook
Kheer for them. The particles floating in the
pool are methodologically related to that kheer
and hence, the name Kheerganga. I tried to
find out the origin of these particles and
walked upwards to the pool. I reached to a
certain extent upwards and the floating
particles were visible everywhere.

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Lord Shiva Temple

Kheerganga mostly remains peaceful during

the day, and slowly turns into a party town as
darkness prevails. In the evening, every corner
of Kheerganga looks like a party ground of
many groups of young travellers. In the large
common halls of the guesthouses, people
assemble in small groups to enjoy the Puff, the
drink and the music. The snacks, dinner, food
all are available at the seat. You just need to
find a place to assemble your group. Tea,
Maggie, Paratha, Rice, Dal, Puff, Beer etc all
are available instantly at this remote camping
ground in the Himalayas. There are heaters to
keep the room warm till the party is over.
During the normal days, the party life at
Kheerganga come to a halt by 11 PM, when
the room-heaters go off.

Following morning, most of the people head

back towards their home. After half of the
journey, the road again bifurcates to Kalga and
Nakthan villages. I hiked on the trail from
Kalga while ascending, so while descending
moved on the trail to Nakthan village. This is
also the most popular route and 90% of the
tourists hike on this trail only.

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Waterfall on the way

The pristine calm around Rudranag Temple,

fierce flow of Parvati River through the deep
gorges, a splendid waterfall, lot of apple
orchards and green fields near Nakthan village
enhance the beauty of this trail. The trail
passes through the middle of Nakthan village
and provides ample opportunities to glimpse
the routine life of this Himalayan Village.
Nakthan also has many fooding and lodging
facilities for the trekkers. Moving further, this
trail connects to the main road to Barsheni
Village near the dam, where you can get a bus
for the return journey.

View of Nakthan Village

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Rudranag Temple

If you are young, wish to travel in a Hippie

style or if you are a backpacker looking for
Himalayan beauty on the budget, then
Kheerganga is a must go attraction for you.
But, if you are in the higher age group, where
you prefer to travel with your kids and family to
enjoy the vista of the mighty Himalayas, then
Kheerganga may disappoint you unfortunately.

There is nothing specific to do at Kheerganga.

It is neither a lush green valley of blooming
flowers nor a spectacular setting on the bank
of a pristine lake. Just expect to spend 1-2
nights in the lap of nature away from the noisy
towns and cities. Be there to walk in a vast
camping ground for 400-500 meters, offer your
prayer at Lord Shiva Temple, enjoy a relaxing
bath in the natural hotspring, soak in the
erstwhile lifestyle of the Himalayan Hippies,
that’s all about Kheerganga.

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Restless Souls”

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