Fire-breathing

in Jakarta
Cosmopolitan
Cardif
Great American
road trips
From cruising and schmoozing in LA to rollin’
with the cowboys in Texas, the US is best explored
by car – so hop in, fll up and hit the freeway
total guide
THE MIDDLE EAST’S BIGGEST TRAVEL MAGAZINE SEpTEMBER 2010
Plus! Win a Weekend stay for tWo at the Cove rotana resort – turn to P71 to find out hoW
produced in International
Media production Zone
Bajan Bliss
Kicking back
in Barbados
The Gulf’s most
mind-blowing
hotel rooms
(including frst-look pics of
the new Yas Hotel suite!)
On the
prOwl
Indian tiger
safaris
KWT Cover September FINAL.indd 1 8/30/2010 9:30:45 AM
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Untitled-4 1 8/25/2010 10:58:23 AM
September 2010 Kanoo World Traveller 5
Travel biTes feaTures
07 AgendA
Everything you need to know about travel this month
12 Ask the expert
Your travel questions answered
14 drive time
France in the autumn – it doesn’t get much better
16 picture this
Daydream with these incredible travel photos
65 thirty-second concierge
Watch turtles hatch in the Seychelles
66 city guide: jAkArtA
You’ll love it or hate it but never forget it
68 city guide: cArdiff
Castle-spotting in the Principality
70 detAils
Find your nearest Kanoo outlet
71 competition
Win a stay at the Cove Rotana Resort
72 suite dreAms
The most luxurious cave you’ll ever sleep in
21 essentiAl selection
From the sublime to the (slightly) ridiculous: we show
you around the Gulf’s most incredible hotel rooms.
28 tropic of conversAtion
Balmy Barbados, away from the glitzy resorts
37 totAl guide: roAd trip usA
Want to drive through America? Here’s the lowdown
on where to go (and where to sleep along the way)
58 eAsy tiger
Searching for the big cats on an Indian safari
CONTENTS
Kanoo World Traveller SEPTEmBER 2010
managing Director: Victoria Hazell-Thatcher
Publishing Director: John Thatcher
Advertisement Director: Chris Capstick
chris@hotmediapublishing.com
+971 4 369 0917
Editor: Ele Cooper
ele@hotmediapublishing.com
+971 4 375 7617
Art Editor: Jenni Dennis
jenni@hotmediapublishing.com
Designer: Matthew McBriar
matt@hotmediapublishing.com
Production manager: Haneef Abdul
haneef@hotmediapublishing.com
+971 4 369 0918
Reproduction in whole or in part without written permission from HOT Media Publishing is strictly prohibited. All prices mentioned are
correct at time of press but may change. HOT Media Publishing does not accept liability for omissions or errors in Kanoo World Traveller.
‘Tropic of conversation’, ‘Total guide: USA road trips’ and ‘Easy tiger’ reprinted with the permission of Sunday Times Travel magazine.
Jan-June 2010
22,620 BPA
Consumer Audit
Produced by: HOT Media Publishing FZ LLC
On the cover:
‘Golden
Gate Bridge
Above Mist’,
shot by Ed
Pritchard,
courtesy
of Getty
Images.
28 63 69 22 48 39
KWT Contents September.indd 5 8/30/2010 9:45:35 AM
Untitled-6 1 8/25/2010 11:05:37 AM
July 2010 Kanoo World Traveller PB
AGENDA
Be informed, be inspired, be there
Residents of Dubai will be familiar with the sight of the
magnifcent, 60m-high, Moroccan-style gate next to
Ibn Battuta Mall – and the hotel it leads onto is fnally
opening on October 1. The fve-star property has
396 bedrooms decked out in Moroccan style, while
its suites are themed around the countries visited
by its namesake, the famous Arabian adventurer.
The four restaurants also refect Ibn Battuta’s travels
(apparently Chinese was his favourite) and we reckon
he’d have been pretty impressed with the rooftop
swimming pool, too. www.moevenpick-hotels.com
Book it Now
Ibn baTTuTa GaTe
September 2010 Kanoo World Traveller 7
KWT Agenda opener September.indd 7 8/30/2010 9:50:46 AM
8 Kanoo World Traveller September 2010
Celebrity chef Gary
Rhodes, who recently
opened new restaurant
Rhodes Twenty10
at Dubai’s Le Royal
Meridien (www.
leroyalmeridien-dubai.com), tells us
where he’d choose to dine when in his
home city of London.
‘I’d either head to Le Gavroche or
La Chapelle. The former is a culinary
institution, opened by the godfathers
of the industry – the Roux brothers
– and it’s also run by Michel Roux Jr,
who’s a good friend of mine. I’d order
the Tournedos et Tranche de Foie Gras
Poeles, Gratin de Macaronis, Ragout
de Legumes Rotis – Scotch fllet of
beef and foie gras, port sauce and
trufed macaroni cheese. La Chapelle,
meanwhile, is set in a beautiful old
building and has a relaxed atmosphere.
It’s a great place to take friends if you
want to impress; I love the red mullet
soup with gruyère and croutons, and
also the Supreme of Landaise chicken.’
www.le-gavroche.co.uk,
www.galvinrestaurants.com
If you’ve got a luxury-loving brood, One&Only Le Saint Géran in Mauritius could
be the ideal destination for your next holiday: book a fve-night stay there before
September 30 (to be taken before February 28, 2011) and you’ll get a complimentary
room upgrade, half board, kids stay free in parents’ room, 50 per cent of an
additional children’s room, free food for the youngsters, one free babysitting session
and complimentary membership of the KidsOnly club. It’s one of the best in the
world, coming with its own pool, dining areas and sandpit – perfect for tots who
demand nothing but the most exclusive care. www.oneandonlyresorts.com
Suite deal
Global Gourmet
Base Qatar
Next time you’re
staying in the Qatari
capital check out
the newly opened
Oryx Rotana: it’s
the closest hotel to
Doha airport, making
it perfect for short
stays, but the Jazz
Club, opulent pool
and city-sleek décor
are sure to make you
want to extend your
trip. www.rotana.com
ONE-MINUTE MASTERCLASS: ITALIAN Hello, my name is… Salve, mi
chiamo… I’d like the cheese and tomato pizza please… Vorrei la pizza
margherita per favore… I don’t speak Italian very well… Non parlo
molto bene italiano… Do you mind if I smoke? ti dà fastidio se fumo?
KWT Agenda September.indd 8 8/30/2010 10:05:13 AM
September 2010 Kanoo World Traveller 9
agenda
|
news
maadi, 12km from the city centre
13 bedrooms
Draws on the building’s colonial past, with
a period feel and modern egyptian art
the pool, surrounded by lemon, mango,
olive, guava and palm trees
From $265; www.villabelleepoque.com
Corniche, Garden City
191 bedrooms
Soothing neutrals livened up with the odd
feature wall of patterned wallpaper
Floor 10, a ‘destination foor full of surprises’
which includes exquisite local cuisine
From $240; www.kempinski.com
location
size
décor
HigHligHts
details

A boutique hotel in the suburbs or a city-centre newcomer? You decide…
cairo conundrum
Villa Belle Époque Kempinski Nile Hotel
Love indulgent holidays, hate
the resultant weight gain?
Brown’s Hotel in London (www.
brownshotel.com) has the
solution: tea-tox. It’s a healthy
take on their award-winning
traditional afternoon tea, with
delectable options like dark
rye bread with smoked salmon
and low-fat crème fraîche, and
blueberries and low-fat lemon
cream served in a sugar-free
chocolate cup. As if that wasn’t
enough to alleviate your guilt,
the in-house ftness specialist
has devised bespoke sightseeing
jogging routes, and you can
also request an in-room ft kit
complete with workout routines.
Guilt-free getaway
brItISH brollIeS
leaving the sunny gcc for
rainier climes this autumn? then
snap up one of these über-cool
umbrellas, available online at www.
londonundercover.co.uk for $75
– they ofer worldwide shipping.
we love this fsh and chips brolly,
complete with newspaper wrapping.
compare and contrast
Abu Dhabi’s Yas Hotel (www.theyashotel.
com) opens its new ESPA, featuring a
contemporary hammam, on September
1 – plus turn to p26 for an exclusive peek
inside the incredible Presidential Suite,
also being unveiled this month.
KWT Agenda September.indd 9 8/30/2010 10:05:39 AM
10 Kanoo World Traveller September 2010
How important is it to get a
good night’s sleep?
It’s vital: if you don’t get seven
to nine hours each night you
will become irritable, anxious
and less in control of your
reactions. Your concentration
will also sufer, which is bad
news on business trips.
So what can we do to make
sure we get our requisite seven
hours in?
Going to bed should have
certain rituals associated with
it, as this will create memory
associations which trigger
the release of sleep-related
hormones. Have a warm bath
or eat a sleep-inducing snack
like walnuts, yoghurt or warm
milk. Avoid cafeine for at least
six hours before bedtime. While
exercise is very good for giving
you a better night’s sleep,
make sure you do it at least
three hours before sleeping.
Set your room temperature
to 18-21°C and practise some
simple breathing exercises to
relax yourself. Don’t lie there
watching the clock; just wait
for sleep to come.
Should you really count sheep,
or is that a myth?
Doing anything boring will
help: read a boring book, watch
a boring movie; don’t lie in
bed using your phone as this
is associated with work, and
therefore stress. Also, ensure
you have the right pillow for
you, which should be based
on your sleeping position.
www.ichotelsgroup.com
Getting to sleep in a foreign hotel can be a
nightmare before you even close your eyes. We
quizzed the International modern Hospital’s sleep
expert Dr tania tayah, who consults for Crowne
Plaza hotels, on how to escape to the land of Zs.
King o’ Pop
Did you know that, shortly before he died, Michael Jackson lived
in a converted cowshed in rural Ireland with his three children?
Nope, us neither, but it turns out the megastar headed for Grouse Lodge, in County Westmeath,
just after his infamous Bahrain sojourn. The owners managed to keep Jackson’s presence secret
for several months, and when word did eventually get out – the singer had been spotted in the
nearby village of Moate – locals became so protective of him that one farmer was even reported
to have threatened to empty slurry over a
lurking paparazzo.
Jackson ended up staying for the rest of
the year – and now you can follow in his
footsteps and fnd out exactly why he fell in
love with the lush green area. Grouse Lodge
is a Georgian house-turned-residential
recording studio complex and, as well as
the occasional resident celebrity (REM and
Shirley Bassey have also stayed), it ofers a
15m indoor pool, cross-country quad-biking
and archery. If it was good enough for the
King of Pop… www.grouselodge.com
if you travel to india a lot, register with etihad’s new loyalty programme at www.etihadindiaconnect.com
to enjoy a host of frequent flier benefits, including exclusive member discounts on hotels and restaurants.
Book it now
Kanoo travel has come up
trumps this month with four
incredible reader offers:
three nights’ B&B at the
Jumeirah Beach Hotel, dubai,
for $999pp
three nights’ B&B at
shangri-la’s Barr al Jissah
resort & spa, muscat, for
$639pp
six nights’ B&B at shangri-
la’s Villingili resort & spa,
maldives, for $2,759pp
six nights’ B&B at the
Kempinski Hotel Bahía
estepona, spain, for $949pp
To book, call your nearest Kanoo
office – see p70 for contact
details. All packages subject
to terms and conditions.
Dream on
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KWT Agenda September.indd 10 8/30/2010 10:05:43 AM
September 2010 Kanoo World Traveller 11
agenda | calendar
September
the most exciting events in the world this month.
1-11
Venice
international
Film FeStiVal
Venice, italy
The 67th instalment of
this annual component
of the Venice Biennale
will draw the world’s
top critics, screening
approximately 20
international flms.
Some will be judged
in competitions while
others – including those
exploring new trends in
cinema – are there solely
for your enjoyment.
www.labiennale.org
26
magic oF maSala
Jumeirah bab al
Shams, Uae
Learning how to cook
is so much better when
you’ve got a celebrity
chef showing you the
ropes. From September
23-27, Cyrus Todiwala,
of London’s Café Spice
Namaste, will be cooking
up a storm for guests,
but on the 26th he’ll be
showing you how to do
it yourself. Unmissable.
Email jbasrestaurants@
jumeirah.com to book
your place.
5
canmore HigHland
gameS
alberta, canada
Don your tartans for
this Celtic festival:
situated in the stunning
mountainous town of
Canmore, just east of
Banf National Park,
it features piping and
drumming, highland
dance, sheep dogs and
the caber toss – where
strong types toss 80kg
wooden poles around.
Bizarre but impressive.
www.canmorehighland
games.ca
4
international
FeStiVal oF KiteS
and air creationS
bristol, UK
Unsurprisingly, this is a
celebration of all things
kite-shaped: this year,
serpents, shoals of fsh, a
3D monkey and appliqué
specialist Kelvin Woods’
‘celebrity tribute edo kites’.
No, we’re not sure what
that means either, but
you can rest assured that
it will be a spectacularly
colourful (not to mention
jolly) afair.
www.kite-festival.org.uk
5
roodHarigen
breda, netherlands
Ginger and proud? Make
a beeline for the ofcial
Coebergh Redhead Day,
which draws an average
of 4,000 strawberry-
locked types each year
with redhead fashion
shows, photo shoots,
picnics, and even lectures
on the background of
red hair. (But if you’re in
a mixed-hair couple,
don’t worry: all are
welcome. Roodharigen
doesn’t discriminate.)
www.roodharigen.nl
22-25
monaco YacHt
SHow
port Hercules, monaco
Join Europe’s super-rich
and check out the latest
innovations in the luxury
boating world, admiring
$1.25bn worth of
superyachts – including
40 previously unseen
models – while you’re
at it. Not only is the
event super-glam, but
it’s also carbon neutral,
which will go somewhere
towards alleviating long-
haul fight guilt… www.
monacoyachtshow.com I
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KWT Calendar September.indd 11 8/30/2010 10:13:52 AM
12 Kanoo World Traveller September 2010
Q: I would love to do a safari in Africa for
my 50th birthday but, while my family loves
camping, I’m not the roughing-it type. Are
there any options that will satisfy both tastes?
A: Forget sleeping bags: huge beds, fne linen and en-suite
bathrooms are the order of the day at Ol Seki Mara Camp in
Kenya (www.olseki.com). With six beautiful tents and two
family suites, Ol Seki provides a traditional safari experience
without forcing you to sacrifce on creature comforts.
Each tent has panoramic views over the Masai Mara Game
Reserve, and while there you can experience bush picnics,
night game drives, hot air ballooning and tribal village visits.
Singita’s Sabora Tented Camp (www.singita.com,
pictured), on the plains of the Tanzanian Serengeti, is
another personal favourite of mine for camping in luxury.
Its tents are decorated in 1920s, colonial style, with antique
mahogany travel chests, Persian rugs, four-poster beds and
outdoor showers. Sabora is set in a private 340,000-acre
game reserve bordering the Serengeti National Park and sits
in the path of the great wildebeest migration. It’s unfenced,
so animals can wander around the camp – meaning you can
safari from your tent! As well as game drives, you can play
tennis, take a dip in the pool and enjoy drives in vintage
cars. The best times to visit are the dry seasons, which run
between July and October and January and February.
Jessica Hudson
Q: Do you have any tips for handling
toddlers during a long-haul fight?
A: The key to easing in-fight boredom is variety. Take a
number of small, individually wrapped gifts to whip out
when your toddler starts fdgeting – consider sticker
books, crayons and colouring pads, an MP3 player
complete with audio books, an Etch A Sketch, and other
small toys – avoiding those with tiny pieces or irritating
sound efects. It’s also worth including a few healthy
snacks (raisins, pretzels, bread sticks), as in-fight meals
rarely turn up when you need them. If you don’t have
faith in your airline’s entertainment system, invest in
a portable DVD player – but don’t forget plenty of
high-capacity batteries. Also pack headphones that ft
comfortably on your child’s head.
Really, though, the easiest toddler to handle on a
long fight is a sleeping toddler. So, even if you’re not
fying overnight, pack your child’s favourite cuddly toy
and bedtime story. Changing children into their pyjamas
can also help create a calmer, sleepier environment.
Who knows, you might even be able to catch the end
credits of your favourite movie!
Rachel Hamilton
Q: My love of eco resorts is rivalled only by
my wife’s passion for hotels that impress
her friends. Where will tick both boxes?
A: I would suggest Venezuela: it’s blessed with diverse
landscapes, including Caribbean coastline, Amazonian
rainforest, the northern peaks of the Andes, and the
dramatic Angel Falls – the world’s highest at 979m.
Venezuela has an excellent network of eco lodges
from which to admire these stunning natural wonders.
The Coral Lagoon Lodge, near Ocumare de la Costa
(around 100km west of Caracas), is located right on
the coast – and only accessible by sea, making it a
wonderfully secluded place to unwind – and has solid
eco credentials: it’s partly powered by solar energy,
the chefs use locally sourced food and the fresh water
supply comes from collected rainfall. You can dive and
snorkel in sparkling blue waters by day, then relax in a
hammock in the evenings as your wife decides which of
the day’s photos will make her friends green with envy.
Tim Woods
Got a question for our panel? Email
editorial@hotmediapublishing.com.
AgendA
|
trAvel q&A
Posh safari camping, in-the-know eco resorts and
fying with kids? no problem, say our panellists.
Ask the expert
Tim Woods, the
go-to man for all
things green, is
an international
project leader for
the British Trust
for Conservation
Volunteers.
Rachel
hamilTon is a
full-time writer
and the mother
of two young
children whom
she travels
frequently with.
Jessica
hudson co-
founded The Chic
Collection’s travel
advisory, and is
tasked with
sampling endless
luxury hotels...
The panel
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KWT Ask the expert September.indd 12 8/30/2010 10:22:38 AM
Untitled-3 1 8/25/2010 10:57:36 AM
AgendA | RoAd tRip
14 Kanoo World Traveller xxxx 2010
Drive time: THE GERS
AgendA | RoAd tRip
14 Kanoo World Traveller September 2010
ready, sTeady, go
Rolling hills and woodland kissed by the fery hues of autumn
make The Gers perfect for those seeking a days-gone-by trip
through rural France. Located in the Midi-Pyrénées, this is
farmer’s country, with ducks and geese fussing around dusty
yards before meeting their fate as the tasty pâtés and foie gras
the southwesterly region is famous for.
Spend your days cruising near-deserted roads – this is the
least densely populated départment in France – and around
every corner, a breathtaking surprise awaits: magnifcent
châteaux, glassy lakes fanked by sandy beaches, or a long,
straight path like this one, just begging you to test the power
of your engine.
Image: Photolibrary
Take advanTaGe oF The quieTeST RoadS in
FRance and PuSh youR enGine To The Max
KWT Drivetime September.indd 14 8/26/2010 11:44:34 AM
Untitled-2 1 8/25/2010 10:45:01 AM
uluru
You’ll probably recognise this – after all, it’s one of
Australia’s most famous landmarks – but its ofcial name
may come as a surprise if you know it as Ayers Rock.
The sandstone formation, which rises like a fame-licked
phoenix from the fat land surrounding it, has been
ofcially known as Uluru, its Aboriginal moniker, since
2002. Explore its periphery and you’ll fnd springs, caves
and ancient paintings, all of which add to the deep sense
of mystery at what is one of the oldest rocks on Earth.
Image: Photolibrary
Picture this
central australia
KWT Picture this Sept.indd 16 8/26/2010 11:56:53 AM
KWT Picture this Sept.indd 17 8/26/2010 11:57:13 AM
KWT Picture this Sept.indd 18 8/26/2010 11:57:33 AM
rock islands
Palau may be an insanely peaceful spot now but the
broccoli-like islands haven’t always been so still: they
originally existed as coral formations, until violent
tremors shook them above the surface of the Pacifc
Ocean several millennia ago. A particularly spectacular
feature of modern-day Palau is to be found at Jellyfsh
Lake, on Eil Malk island. Its millions of golden-bodied
inhabitants are stingless and spend their days foating
through the water in ghoulish horizontal swathes. Join
them for a once-in-a-lifetime snorkelling experience.
Image: Photolibrary
Picture this
palau, micronesia
KWT Picture this Sept.indd 19 8/26/2010 11:57:40 AM
Untitled-5 1 8/25/2010 10:59:43 AM
EssEntial sElEction
|
amazing stays
August 2010 Kanoo World Traveller 21
The Monarch Dubai: Floors 32 & 33
The USP: The Monarch Suite has its own
10-seater cinema as well as a swimming pool
which extends from an indoor stretch out to
the private terrace which, incidentally, ofers
spectacular views of the Dubai skyline.
The damage: From $11,430 per night.
www.themonarchdubai.com
September 2010 Kanoo World Traveller 21
From rotating four-posters to stingrays foating
past your bath, these beautiful spaces will make
your next weekend away infnitely more special.
Words by Ele Cooper.
essenTial selecTion
EssEntial sElEction
|
amazing stays
KWT Essential selection September.indd 21 8/30/2010 10:28:10 AM
22 Kanoo World Traveller August 2010
EssEntial sElEction
|
amazing stays
six senses hiDeaway Zighy bay: PrivaTe reserve
The USP: Comprising three villas, the complex has a 14m infnity
pool overlooking the Gulf of Oman as well as an exquisite copper
bathtub, private quarters for your security staf and a live-in chef.
The damage: From $15,000 per night.
www.sixsenses.com
aTlanTis The PalM: room 2464
The USP: The Poseidon Suite’s foor-to-ceiling window walls look
straight onto the Ambassador Lagoon, a huge aquarium housing
eels, stingrays and sharks – exceptionally relaxing (and very cool).
The damage: From $8,000 per night.
www.atlantisthepalm.com
arMani hoTel Dubai: room 812
The USP: The only hotel in the world’s tallest building had to ofer
something more than simple luxury – so they got Giorgio Armani
to personally design it. The Armani Suite’s minimalist look perfectly
complements the magnifcent Dubai Fountain, which it overlooks.
The damage: From $1,360 per night.
www.dubai.armanihotels.com
22 Kanoo World Traveller September 2010
most expensive
most exclusive location
Clockwise from left: Armani Suite; Zighy
Bay; Atlantis The Palm; Burj Al Arab.
KWT Essential selection September.indd 22 8/30/2010 10:28:52 AM
EssEntial sElEction
|
amazing stays
August 2010 Kanoo World Traveller 23
burj al arab: room 2501
The USP: Book the Royal Suite in Dubai’s most famous
landmark and you’ll have a rotating four-poster bed as well as
a marble-and-gold staircase, complimentary access to Wild
Wadi and Assawan Spa, private library, cinema and elevator.
The damage: From $12,400 per night.
www.jumeirah.com
EssEntial sElEction
|
amazing stays
September 2010 Kanoo World Traveller 23
KWT Essential selection September.indd 23 8/30/2010 10:29:28 AM
24 Kanoo World Traveller August 2010
EssEntial sElEction
|
amazing stays
riTZ-carlTon bahrain: villa 20
The USP: Surrounded by grass and with direct beach access,
this three-bedroom Manama hideaway has its own shaded
infnity pool overlooking the azure waters of the Gulf of
Bahrain and a private butler attending to your every need.
The damage: From $3,130 per night.
www.ritzcarlton.com
24 Kanoo World Traveller September 2010
KWT Essential selection September.indd 24 8/30/2010 10:29:52 AM
EssEntial sElEction
|
amazing stays
August 2010 Kanoo World Traveller 25
al Maha: PresidenTial suiTe
The USP: Its total privacy – the Presidential Suite is over half
a kilometre from the rest of the already-exclusive resort – is
likely to have something to do with the fact that it was the
favoured retreat of the late Sheikh Maktoum bin Rashid
Al Maktoum. The spectacular villa sits atop a sand dune
overlooking a pristine wildlife reserve in the heart of the
Arabian Desert.
The damage: From $8,205 per night.
www.emirateshotelsresorts.com
EssEntial sElEction
|
amazing stays
September 2010 Kanoo World Traveller 25
KWT Essential selection September.indd 25 8/30/2010 10:30:02 AM
26 Kanoo World Traveller August 2010
EssEntial sElEction
|
amazing stays
26 Kanoo World Traveller September 2010
The yas hoTel: Yas PresidenTial suiTe
The USP: At 2,531 sq m and with a whopping 28 bedrooms,
this is the Gulf’s largest and newest suite (it opens this month)
– book it and you’ll be able to watch top-level motor-racing
from the privacy of your own room, as the windows look right
onto Yas Marina Circuit.
The damage: From $5,450 per night.
www.theyashotel.com
26 Kanoo World Traveller September 2010
KWT Essential selection September.indd 26 8/30/2010 10:30:44 AM
EssEntial sElEction
|
amazing stays
August 2010 Kanoo World Traveller 27
w Doha: room 1501
The USP: Where else could you watch a movie on an Aquavision
TV from a hexagonal bathtub before going to bed, safe in the
knowledge that you’re being watched over by a life-sized model
of a horse?
The damage: From $9,000 per night.
www.whoteldoha.com
al Faisaliah: room 716
The USP: Al Faisaliah’s Royal Suite has an opulent sunken
Jacuzzi, steam showers, dramatic views over Riyadh and
a dedicated butler’s pantry – perfect for midnight feasts.
The damage: From $6,400 per night.
www.alfaisaliahhotel.com
KeMPinsKi Mall oF The eMiraTes: room 216
The USP: The Grand Ski Chalet may have been around for a few
years but it’s still impossible not to get a certain childish thrill at
staying in a desert-based hotel room which ofers ski slope views.
The damage: From $6,000 per night.
www.kempinski.com
EssEntial sElEction
|
amazing stays
most eccentric
most novel
Clockwise from left: Yas Hotel; W Doha;
Al Faisaliah; Kempinski Mall of the Emirates.
September 2010 Kanoo World Traveller 27
KWT Essential selection September.indd 27 8/30/2010 10:31:30 AM
28 Kanoo World Traveller September 2010
Tropic of
conversation
Bendy palms, white sand, clear water… Barbados is
a textbook Caribbean paradise, but the real talking
points are the people. Nick Redman gets chatting.
KWT Barbados September.indd 28 8/26/2010 11:41:39 AM
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September 2010 Kanoo World Traveller 29
Y
ou happen abruptly upon Fisher Pond,
in the green heart of St Thomas parish:
a blur of cottages on the drive from the
coast, pink villages, a bumpy track. Then
the Great House, a weathered plantation property,
materialises among the cane felds. It’s a slab of
sepia-tinted Caribbean, stately-home-familiar
to the British, yet exotic against branches of red
African tulips.
Shutters are open to the Barbados January sun, a piano-
plink comes from within, and white-bearded owner
John Chandler shows you to one of a dozen garden
tables, covered in psychedelic bougainvillea, busy with
chattering guests. A woman gets a tablecloth caught
to her as she rises. Is she about to perform some El
Stupendo whip-it-away magic act? It wouldn’t surprise
me; ‘camp’ is too tame a term for this place. There are
pink parasols in the drinks that John’s wife, Rain, is
dispensing. Tablecloths are resplendent with Swiss-
cheese-plant motifs. Betty, eightysomething, is on the
baby grand, playing beside a superb-looking home-
cooked bufet. She launches into ‘La Vie en Rose’, and I
glance at my partner. What have we let ourselves in for?
Graham Norton’s 50th? Carry on up the Caribbean?
We’re light years from the demure Barbados of
brochure clichés. A macaw screeches, putting me in mind
of Maria Callas. (Not so much the vocal impression; just
that I read somewhere about the opera singer holidaying
on the island with her pet marmoset.) Jewel-coloured
glasses are flled, the lunch grows longer, drowsier, and
Fisher Pond Great House blooms into Barbados past, like
a lost Noel Coward play. The cooking is all done by Rain
– and what cooking. Based on classic recipes from across
the West Indies, there’s curried green banana from
St Lucia; from Martinique, a caramelly fan made with
condensed milk, leaving room (just) for the guava bread
pudding, an old Bajan recipe. We fll our bellies, indulging
in the classic Barbados holiday pursuit: people-watching.
‘The older lady, two to your left,’ I say quietly, pointing
with my eyes. ‘Wallis Simpson?’
‘Defnitely more Marge Simpson.’
Both of us are loving Barbados. For the sun and the
sands and the sheer unadulterated indolence, sure, but
more than anything for the characters. Sit around for a
while and tune in – it’s like a soap opera but, tragically,
not weekly. John Chandler has the most intoxicating lilt
to his voice, somewhere between Bob Marley and Pam
Ayres. I could listen to the Bajan accent all day.
We’re almost too heavy to stand by the time John
ofers us a whizz around his antiques, including a pair of
18th-century hurricane lantern shades owned by Anthony
Eden, Britain’s former prime minister. They’d look lovely
in our apartment but are too big to smuggle out subtly.
John’s family arrived from Scotland to grow tobacco in
1638. He used to run a hotel where Princess Margaret
lodged (‘She stayed up too late’). Once at Fisher Pond
he scolded Prince Harry for smoking. And he’s sorry he
lost Helen Mirren’s number when she visited: ‘I wanted to
invite her to stay. If you’re reading this, Helen…’
Home for us is Coral Reef Club. It’s set on the same
stretch of coast as the Sandy Lane hotel, yet it’s the
antithesis of that gigantic glitz-fest – family-run, friendly,
a love story. Budge O’Hara came to manage the place in
the ’50s, bringing his wife, Cynthia – their honeymoon
was the rocky cargo-ship passage over. Budge passed
away in the ’90s, but silver-haired Cynthia, with her two
sons and their wives, still presides, like an elegant British
forerunner to Miss Ellie in Dallas.
This clutch of coral-stone cottages and suites is
another Caribbean classic, the kind you daydream about
at your desk: mental blotting paper. Chunky novels
KWT Barbados September.indd 29 8/26/2010 11:41:44 AM
30 Kanoo World Traveller September 2010
rest unopened on thighs, owners gazing mindlessly out
to sea. At breakfast, pairs of chairs are scraped back
simultaneously as Mr and Mrs leave for a day of nothing-
muchness around their plunge pool.
Birds staccato-hop for crumbs – so many, it’s as if
Alfred Hitchcock is still directing from on high, and so
pushy. They’ll be cadging my Marlboros next. Now all
heads swivel at a sudden commotion: ‘Joan. Joan. JOAN.’
An American has given up trying to signal discreetly to
a stick-like septuagenarian, picking her way along the
beach with the head-nodding concentration of a stork.
Joan, I’m not surprised to observe when her breakfast
arrives, barely pecks at her mufn, so she’ll be an even
bigger hit with the fnches.
Next day, we motor north along the ‘platinum’ west
coast, past coves of sand so fne you could sieve it
onto a donut. Gingerbread homes fit by, and theatrical
mansions lurk like stars in ’shades behind curly gates.
We turn inland at Speightstown and the sea now glints
in the rear-view mirror, disappearing as horizons of sugar
cane hog the frame. In Barbados, it somehow doesn’t
feel as if we’ve fown across the Atlantic – it’s more as if
we’ve taken an exotic exit of an English motorway and
our cottage is somewhere beyond the finty manor house
that’s materialising ahead, among a shock of palms.
In the verdant wilds of St Philip Parish, towards the
Atlantic Coast, there’s a sign to Sunbury Plantation
House. It’s a proper Scarlett O’Hara set, guarded by a
‘Gingerbread homes
fit by, and theatrical
mansions lurk like
stars in ’shades
behind curly gates’
KWT Barbados September.indd 30 8/26/2010 11:42:16 AM
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September 2010 Kanoo World Traveller 31
bearded fg tree, and if it weren’t for the occasional ‘Please do not
sit…’ signs you’d think the place was still lived in. Built by an Irish/
English planter in 1660, it’s a splendid window on bygone Barbados,
stufed with spooky, lifeless-eyed dolls in the children’s room, a
wince-inducing ladies’ manicure set and old photos on the walls. But
again, it’s the people that make the moment: ‘Is that snow?’ asks
a lady out loud, studying the white drive in a monochrome 1905
picture. ‘No,’ I feel qualifed to answer.
Between reading tabloid interviews with Tina Turner and Paul
Daniels at Coral Reef Club, my partner is now ofcially addicted to
people-watching. There’s the blonde X-ray in Lycra pants, endlessly
heading of on manic runs, as if she’s always left the iron on. There
are well-kept men who clearly work out between the boardroom
sessions back home, only a crêpe-like midrif leatheriness betraying
their middle age. And there was some fne resort dancing last night,
to band covers of Joni Mitchell and Frank Sinatra. Girls twirled and we
guys let what was left of our hair down.
One evening, we heard that Naomi Campbell and David Walliams
had recently been spotted in fashionable restaurant Daphne’s.
Out we went, under a torch-beam moon. Fashionable? Yes, in a
Previous page: Bottom Bay. Opposite from left: Luxury Plantation Suite at Coral
Reef Club; Luxury Cottage at same hotel. This page, clockwise from top left (all
Coral Reef Club): Warleigh terrace; Breakfast by the beach; Seared pepper-
crusted tuna; Stoking the barbecue.
KWT Barbados September.indd 31 8/26/2010 11:42:54 AM
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September 2010 Kanoo World Traveller 33
darkwood way. Celebrities? No – just a berk in a short-sleeved
Burberry shirt, forcing the staf to sell a double espresso for the price
of a single. ‘You know, and I know,’ he hissed, ‘it’s just a little more hot
water.’ The discreet charm of the bourgeoisie…
Next morning, the sky, ominous before a shower an hour ago, was
now bright blue, with canyons of pufy white clouds. The sea was
spearmint-clear. Barbados-beyond beckoned. We took of with a
small group led by the chuckly Duane. He was quite a character, even
if his microphone was turned up too loud, causing all in the vehicle
to jump each time he cleared his throat to point out an unusual sight.
But inland, Barbados unravelled beautifully – untouristy, untouched
– passing down avenues of palms and tunnels of overhanging
mahogany, black-belly sheep grazing the waysides.
Animal Flower Cave, on the northern tip, was a shivery moment:
a staired descent to a mysterious, drip-drip, coral-limestone hollow,
where anemones pulsed in rock pools. A huge scallop shell in the
ceiling, embedded, then exposed by time, looked just like a hand with
gnawed nails. Through a gaping aperture crashed the mad Atlantic,
which brought us neatly on to Billy Ocean, the singer. ‘He flmed a
video here in the ’80s,’ Duane explained, almost wistfully, I thought.
As we chugged over Cherry Tree Hill, the island fell away
dramatically to the east, down to the Atlantic Coast at Bathsheba,
each headland nudging further out, fading into mists. The longing for
what was never home: I’m not sure why it exists, but I know that it
does. I felt it myself as the day closed and Duane dropped me of at
the prettily lit Coral Reef Club, for some people-watching from a soft
sofa, over a big cold drink.
Where to stay
Coral Reef Club (www.
coralreefarbados.com) has
rooms from $420 B&B. On
the Atlantic coast at Tent Bay,
near Bathsheba, The Atlantis
(www.atlantishotelbarbados.
com) reopened this year after an
extensive refurb; rooms from $255
B&B. Or try Sea-U Guest House
(www.seaubarbados.com; from
$129 B&B), an informal, cosy little
east-coast retreat.
Where to eat
Fisher Pond Great House (www.
chandelierweddingsbarbados.net)
has a Caribbean bufet Sunday
lunch (served from 1pm) for $50pp.
Daphne’s (www.daphnesbarbados.
com) has mains for around $40.
Sightseeing
Sunbury Plantation House (www.
barbadosgreathouse.com), St
Philip; 9.30am-5pm. Animal
Flower Cave, St Lucy; 9am-5pm.
The brief
Clockwise from top left: Room at the refurbed Atlantis; St James beach; Daphne’s
– the place to see and be seen; Plumeria thrives in Barbados’ tropical climate. I
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KWT Barbados September.indd 33 8/26/2010 11:38:18 AM
34 Kanoo World Traveller September 2010
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Untitled-4 1 8/26/2010 5:34:27 PM
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total guide | uSa Road tRip
September 2010 Kanoo World Traveller 37
uSa Road tRipS
Hot tarmac, cool breeze, and 50 states to see: if
you want to tour america, better get motoring…
P38 THE WHEEL THING Drive yourself to distraction on America’s most
scenic journeys. From Fifth Avenue to Route 66, there’s a road for every
kind of rider. P44 INTO THE WILD The crowds in Yellowstone National
Park? Sure, they can be a bit grizzly – but arrive in an RV and you’ll bear-ly
see another tourist. P48 BEDS AND BURGERS Find your perfect pit stop
for an all-American highway adventure: roadside diners, time-warped
motels and kitsch crash pads. P52 LOST IN TRANSMISSION On a driving
tour of La-La Land, truth and hype collide. See Bel Air, Hollywood, Beverly
Hills – and enough silicone to fll the valley. P56 KEEP ROLLING Seen the
movie? Now live the dream… Retrace the routes in these cult classics and
you’re guaranteed a good time.
TOTAL GUIDE
Your total guide to USA
road trips, in association with
KWT Total guide September.indd 37 8/30/2010 11:13:54 AM
38 Kanoo World Traveller September 2010
the wheel thing
From Route 66 to the Rio grande, the greatest american drives
start here. Buckle up and hit the road. By Stanley Stewart.
A week: TOWARDS THE RIO GRANDE
This road trip takes you across Texas to Big
Bend National Park, and one of the West’s
best-kept secrets. Only an hour or so out of
New Orleans and you’re in Louisiana back
country, which is still inhabited by French-
speaking Cajuns (stop here for zydeco music
and juicy crawfsh). Sign up for one of the
swamp tours in Henderson to go head to head
with ’gators. Then head west to Texas, bypass
Houston, and spend a night in music-centric
Austin, where you might catch tomorrow’s
rock stars playing for tips. Head west again
into the Hill Country, jink south to San Antonio
and the Alamo, then take Highway 90 through
long stretches of Big Sky country to Big Bend.
In the small towns there’s a real old-west feel;
in the parks (www.nps.gov/bibe) there’s hiking,
rafting, and glider rides. Don’t miss Highway
70, which climbs spectacular desert buttes, for
views of the Rio Grande.
One dAy: cAPE cOD
Start in Plymouth, checking out the Pilgrim
Fathers’ frst settlement, before crossing the
bridge into the Moby Dick world of Cape
Cod. Forego the big mid-Cape Highway for
the coastal road 6A, which winds along an
old Indian trail. Detour to Hyannis (summer
home of the Kennedys) to visit the JFK
Museum and pay homage at the statue of the
Wampanoag Indian chieftain who sold Cape
Cod for $30 and two pairs of trousers. Finish in
Provincetown, where the Pilgrim Fathers frst
stepped ashore in 1620.
FOur dAys: BLUES HIGHWAy
To discover America’s musical taproot, head
to the Mississippi Delta. The blues was born
along its back roads, and all the great artists –
Howlin’ Wolf, Muddy Waters, John Lee Hooker
– came from the Delta, an area smaller than
KWT Total guide September.indd 38 8/26/2010 4:33:34 PM
total guide | uSa Road tRip
September 2010 Kanoo World Traveller 39
Wales. Highway 61 is the key route but detour
down Highways 49 and 1: you’ll see towns
like Indianola, where BB King used to play
on street corners (he returns every year for a
homecoming concert), and Greenville, which
hosts the Mississippi Delta Blues and Heritage
Festival every September. Clarksdale, where
Muddy Waters caught the train to Chicago, is
Blues Central. Don’t miss Morgan Freeman’s
Ground Zero, a great blues lounge there. The
route ends in Memphis, home to the man who
took the blues to the world.
TwO dAys: BLUE RIDGE PARKWAy
Known as America’s Favourite Drive, the Blue
Ridge Parkway sweeps along the crest of the
Appalachians, from Virginia to Tennessee’s
Great Smokies. The Parkway is that rare thing
in America – a pristine road. No billboards, no
motels, no gas stations; just lay-bys, a few
visitor centres and uninterrupted views of
forest-clad mountains. For some Appalachian
culture, and to hear bluegrass music, take
the side roads into local towns – Asheville is
home to the annual Mountain Dance and Folk
Festival (www.folkheritage.org).
One hOur in A TAxi, depending
On TrAFFic: fIfTH AvENUE
Running down the centre of Manhattan, Fifth
Avenue revels in its reputation as the most
expensive street in the world. But a cruise
along it is a journey through the many faces
of New York. Hop in a cab at its northern end
on the Harlem River and head south, passing
venues where the great jazzmen discovered
be-bop. Of to the left, between 115th St and
111th St, is Spanish Harlem, where samba rules.
With a sudden shift of gear, you’re cruising
past Central Park, on a stretch once known as
Millionaire’s Row. From 105th St to 82nd St,
it’s Museum Mile; next up is Midtown, with the
Rockefeller Centre, the Empire State and the
Flatiron building. Dangerously upmarket stores
begin to loom – Bergdorf Goodman, Tifany
& Co – but your fnal destination is Second
Ave Deli (156 Second Ave), one of New York’s
greatest foodie joints.
in the know
Clockwise from far left: Believe it or not, it can be hard
catching a cab on Fifth Avenue; Altogether quieter scene
in Provincetown, Cape Cod; The open road in Big Bend
National Park; Blue Ridge Highway is stunning in autumn.
It’s easy to rent a car in America – specialists
such as Hertz (www.hertz.com) are dotted
throughout the country. Or consider a drive-
away car – an agency enlists you to deliver a
client’s vehicle to a specifc destination and you
just pay the gas (see www.autodriveaway.
com). And why not save money by checking
www.gasbuddy.com? It lists gas stations
selling the cheapest petrol from state to state.
total guide | uSa Road tRip
Your total guide to USA
road trips, in association with
KWT Total guide September.indd 39 8/26/2010 4:33:37 PM
40 Kanoo World Traveller September 2010
Five hOurs: LA TO LAS vEGAS
The worst way to land in this city is of a trans-
continental fight; Vegas can be just too bizarre
for people sufering from jet lag. Instead,
arrive by road – at night. Have a late lunch on
Venice Beach in LA and then head out; there
are some fne mountains to cross during the
afternoon, as well as vast stretches of desert.
Watch the sun set on a horizon fat as a ruled
line, then drive on, through a chiaroscuro world
of headlights and undiluted night. The white
lines begin to hypnotise; the landscape is a
dark nothing beneath a vault of stars. And
then, suddenly, as you crest a desert ridge,
Vegas appears, a spectacular blaze of light, a
surreal apparition, foating in the desert like an
alien space station. The last stage of the drive
is the cruise up The Strip past the Eifel Tower,
the Venetian gondolas, the Pyramids and the
Roman palaces. Welcome to Vegas.
‘As you crest a ridge,
Vegas appears, a
surreal apparition’
40 Kanoo World Traveller September 2010
KWT Total guide September.indd 40 8/26/2010 4:33:58 PM
total guide | uSa Road tRip
September 2010 Kanoo World Traveller 41 xxxxx 2010 KANOO WORLD TRAvELLER 41
total guide | uSa Road tRip
TwO weeks: ROUTE 66
Route 66 ain’t what it used to be. The
Interstates have robbed it of its trafc and its
importance, and the old highway has been
replaced and diverted in many places. But you
can still follow it, and along the way fnd the
two-lane dream on which America was born.
Route 66 has always been an integral part of
the country’s great western migration. The
Okies took to the road to escape dust-bowl
depression; soda-fountain girls followed it to
Hollywood and Chuck Berry made it famous. It
starts in Chicago, drops down into Illinois and
Missouri, and runs across the Texas Panhandle
before heading west through New Mexico,
Arizona and California to LA. The kitsch and
the weird loom large on Route 66, from the
Cadillac Ranch near Amarillo, where 10 cars
have been ‘planted’ hood frst in the ground, to
the quirky Baghdad Café, where the 1988 flm
of the same name was shot. The best stretch is
in Arizona, where 600km of the old blacktop
runs through timeless towns like Kingman,
Oatman and Winslow with their ageing motels
and classic diners. Check out www.national66.
com and www.historic66.com.
‘The kitsch and the
weird loom large on
Route 66’
September 2010 Kanoo World Traveller 41
KWT Total guide September.indd 41 8/26/2010 4:34:13 PM
42 Kanoo World Traveller September 2010 42 Kanoo World Traveller September 2010
A week: PAcIfIc cOAST HIGHWAy
This iconic road trip links the cheesy glamour
of LA with the funky bohemia of San Francisco.
Unravelling along the ocean in a series of West
Coast clichés – surfers’ beaches, orange groves
and giant redwoods – this highway makes
California Dreamin’ a reality. After a few days
taking in the insanity of LA, pop in the Beach
Boys and motor out past beach houses, palm
trees and the big Pacifc surf: Santa Barbara
is just a couple of sunny hours away. The next
day, cross the Santa Ynez Mountains into
big-sky, ranch country. An hour later, you’re
in Steinbeck’s California: vegetable and fruit
territory. Another hour and you’ll be back on
the coast at Pismo, where surfers ride big
waves and Baywatch extras play volleyball
on an endless beach. Just past San Simeon,
stop to see Hearst Castle, the former home
of William Randolph Hearst, immortalised
by Orson Welles as Citizen Kane. You’re
now entering Big Sur, 145km of spectacular
coastline. From the viewpoints, spot blue and
humpback whales in the summer, or grey
whales during the winter. When the forests
push down to the coast, get out of the car and
take a hike in Pfeifer Big Sur State Park (www.
parks.ca.gov), deep among the redwoods,
where rivers pool in sunstruck swimming
holes. Next it’s all windows open for a leisurely
cruise through Monterey Peninsula. Carmel is
now as famous for electing Clint Eastwood as
mayor as it is for its boutiques, galleries and
twee teashops. For contrast, spend the night in
Santa Cruz, a wonderful mix of surfers, skaters,
yuppies and ageing hippies. Cross the Santa
Cruz Mountains to Interstate 280, which whisks
you into San Francisco. Highway 84 is a great
end to a great drive – but once you’re in town,
ditch the car: San Fran is a lefty, eco-conscious
sort of place, so keep quiet about the road trip
and the gas-guzzling convertible.
42 Kanoo World Traveller September 2010
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September 2010 Kanoo World Traveller 43 September 2010 Kanoo World Traveller 43
FOur dAys: THE fOUR cORNERS
Stunning desert and canyon landscapes
combined with a rich Navajo culture make the
Four Corners – where Arizona, Utah, Colorado
and New Mexico meet – one of America’s
most fascinating junctions. This is archetypal
drive country: long straight roads sweeping
through jaw-dropping scenery. Start at the
Grand Canyon, north side, then head south
on Highway 89 and east on 160 to Monument
Valley where the West was born (thanks to
John Ford westerns). The stark sandstone
buttes and strange pinnacles of rock rising
from a bleak red desert are as familiar to
movie-goers as the Hollywood sign. This is
where the stagecoach ran into trouble in
Stagecoach, where Wyatt Earp drove his cattle
on the way to his gunfght at the OK Corral and
where that irritating bird escapes his deserved
demise in Roadrunner cartoons. Beyond the
Valley, a looping clockwise itinerary dips into
Colorado, turning into Utah before returning
to Arizona and the Grand Canyon. En route, it
takes in some of the region’s most fascinating
landmarks: the haunting Mesa Verde plateau,
with the ruins of ancient Indian settlements,
and the Canyon de Chelly, sacred to the
Navajo. This is RV land, the ideal place to ‘carry
it all on your back’ with a motorhome – and to
park up at night under a wilderness of stars.
‘Long, straight roads
make this archetypal
drive country’
September 2010 Kanoo World Traveller 43
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44 Kanoo World Traveller September 2010
into the wild
the best road trips involve getting out of the car. Brian
Schofeld gets close – possibly too close – to nature in
Yellowstone National park.
I
t’s cheaper than reconstructive surgery,’
leered the elderly shop owner, placing
$30-worth of highly pressurised cayenne
pepper on the counter with the confdence
of a man whose sales pitch hadn’t failed
him in years. A blood-spattered face stared
dolefully out from the side of the canister –
‘Designed by a genuine bear-attack survivor!
Efective at 10m!’ I thought of my mother at
my graveside and opened my wallet, then
drove on through the thickening woods to
the entry gates. A can of bear spray on the
way into Yellowstone Park – it might be the
best $30 you’ll ever spend… or it might be
the last.
But I was determined this road trip through
grizzly country was not going to be a car-
window adventure. I wanted to drive, sure,
but then I wanted to park my RV and get out
there. That’s the real joy of a road trip, after
all: opening the door to a new destination
every time you turn of the engine. And if I’m
honest, I was pretty safe.
Greater Yellowstone – a towering patch of
mountains, forests and sulphurous volcanic
activity in the northwestern hinterland of the
USA, with the world’s oldest national park
at its heart – has witnessed only nine fatal
bear attacks in the past 100 years, and the
majority of those lost souls had made quite
considerable strides towards deserving their
fates. In 1907, a tourist to the park chased two
bear cubs up a tree and proceeded to stand
poking them with his umbrella until mummy
bear arrived on his blind side and taught him
a lesson his terrifed, watching companions
never forgot.
On two other poetically just occasions,
poachers have trapped grizzlies in grotesque
steel foot-clamps and approached them,
skinning knife poised, only to discover
that there is something more deadly than
a wounded tiger. One amateur wildlife
photographer decided that, to get the perfect
shot, he needed to get within fve metres of a
bear, a distance an adult grizzly can travel in
less than half a second. And, most famously,
in 1972 a young backpacker left food and
unwashed dishes lying around his camp
site, and fatally attracted a hungry beast.
His parents sued the park for not making it
crystal clear that bear country might possibly
be a dangerous place in which to slob out.
Thus statistically emboldened, I drove
into Yellowstone’s timber and meadowland
interior with a light heart, only for spirits to
plummet with the realisation that the most
likely explanation for the park’s relative safety
is that bears don’t like trafc. The greatest
peril ahead seemed certain to be a Chevy van
veering unpredictably into my path in pursuit
of the perfect view of a family of elk.
Yellowstone, you see, holds a special place
in both American and worldwide hearts, as its
unique fora and fauna inspired the very idea
of preserving wild places as national parks,
and it thus attracts three million visitors a
year. As the overwhelming majority bring a
car along for the ride, there’s a considerable
risk of the landscape being loved to death.
Commuter rush hours are established by the
timetables for likely geyser eruptions, as the
massed ranks hurry for the best vista, while
roadside animal encounters, of which there
are many, produce chaotic temporary
44 Kanoo World Traveller September 2010
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September 2010 Kanoo World Traveller 45
‘The bear silently hung
a left, moved on over
the river and followed
his nose west’
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46 Kanoo World Traveller September 2010
car parks of zoom-lens-wielding naturalists,
crowding for the perfect image of a bison
scratching its bottom on a tree stump. And,
all the time, the park rangers in their Hanna-
Barbera hats patiently spend their days
pointing out that: ‘Ma’am, that’s a 900-kilo
wild animal you’re standing a metre away
from/trying to pet/placing your child on top
of. Please reconsider.’
Thankfully, this maelstrom is easily
escaped. Three strategies, one soon learns,
reveal the best of Yellowstone and shield
you from the worst. The frst is to avoid the
perilously expensive park hotels and plump
for the campsites, where from your RV or tent
you can enjoy half-whispered conversations
with equally peace-seeking neighbours, and
wander down to rivers and lakesides for quiet
communion with the fy-fshermen, elk and
moose that populate the shorelines.
Second, dusk and dawn must be enjoyed
to the full: that’s when the animals are at their
most active, and when you’ll be sharing the
road with the serious nature lovers, wielding
interstellar binoculars in the hunt for the
rarer sights on the Yellowstone spotter’s list
– doughty long-horn sheep, beavers, otters
and, most elusive of all, wolves. One twilight, I
tracked a pair of wolves who were ominously,
relentlessly shadowing a family of elk across
the open food plain of the Yellowstone
River. The end of the epic was out of sight
but inevitable – a favoured lupine tactic is to
slowly, methodically walk their prey to death.
Third, and most important, park, backpack
up and do some hiking. Even half a kilometre
from the road, the crowds all but disappear
and Yellowstone recovers its magic. I had set
my heart on seeing the Pelican Creek Valley,
a wide treeless basin away from any human
presence, with thick forest on three sides and
jagged mountains on the fourth — so I did
what any keen hiker must do and consulted
the ranger station.
‘Yip, that’s grizzly country in there, and it’s
pretty active. If you stay on the low ground,
you should be OK. They’re in the trees on
the high slopes right now, eating the pine
cones – that’s how ravenous they are. Got
spray? Good. And make a lot of noise!’ Hiking
in Yellowstone is not a peaceful activity. A
surprised bear is a moody one, so I set of
over the low ridge into Pelican Creek val-
deri-ing and val-dera-ing for all I was worth,
slapping my walking stick on every log on
the path while trying not to slip into a jaunty
whistle (which apparently makes you sound
too much like prey).
After a cacophonous kilometre, the forest
cleared to reveal Pelican Creek, aimlessly
winding its way through the tan grass of the
perfect widescreen valley foor, with those
of-limits high forests rolling away to a clear
horizon, and the alpine peaks to the east
wearing the frst snowfall of autumn. The
scene was perfected with my own personal
herd of bison, a caravan of dust, hair and
haunch strolling along the riverbank. I
climbed a rise and found a smaller clan a few
metres from the path, grazing noiselessly.
It’s easy to see why so many visitors to
Yellowstone cannot compute that bison might
be dangerous – they have the physiques
of comic-book superheroes, with their vast
shoulders tapering to a cluster of dainty,
tottering feet. The leader of this family left
me under no illusions, though, delivering a
snort and a toss of his horns that I interpreted,
Dolittle-style, to mean: ‘I’m as dumb as a
heifer, as mean as a wasp and as fast as a
steeplechaser, and you’re standing too close.’
After a wide diversion, the river was reached
and lunch was served, with the additional
thrill of watching a rogue male bison and the
caravan’s leader brutally clashing horns in the
far distance.
The problem with binoculars, though,
is that they distract from the unmagnifed
world around you. The bear was no more
than 35m away when I shot to my feet with
a furry, hand wobbling over the bear spray
like a novice gunfghter. Jet black, but with
the distinctive hunchback of a grizzly, it was
strolling towards the river, nose down for
dinner. My stumbling signalled that there was
company, he looked up, and our gazes met.
For an unforgettable instant, I stared into
those eyes, two unfathomable, pristine black
pools, awash with… well, with complete and
utter indiference. With boredom, in fact, at
yet another scrawny, meat-free hiker making
a racket and scaring away the real food. The
bear silently hung a left, moved on over the
river and followed his nose west, never giving
me another thought. I watched for half an
hour as he patrolled the valley foor, then he
disappeared into the forest.
At that point it started to snow, a thick,
spinning blizzard that settled frst on the
bisons’ backs, then on the pine branches
and, fnally, into a perfectly pressed sheet
lying across the valley foor, only the steam
from the hot springs breaking through the
whiteness. Before they named it Yellowstone
National Park, it was known as Wonderland.
the brief
Previous page: You won’t be the only one wandering
around Yellowstone National Park. Opposite, clockwise
from top left: Bison drink at river edge; Lower Yellowstone
Falls; Grizzly bear; Hot springs; Rainbow at Yellowstone;
An elk stalks through the park; Geyser quietly simmering.
Getting there
The closest airport is Jackson Hole, 90km away.
Where to stay
The Grand Teton Lodge Company (www.gtlc.
com) has four lodges in and around Jackson
Hole, starting from $224 per night. Try
Xanterra (www.travelyellowstone.com) for
accommodation within the park including
campsites (from $15 per night).
Getting around
Cruise America (www.cruiseamerica.com) has
RVs for hire from $1,450 per week inclusive,
from Jackson Hole. For park information, see
www.nps.gov/yell. Entry costs $25 for a private
vehicle and $12 on foot.
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48 Kanoo World Traveller September 2010
Beds and burgers
It’s not a road trip without classic diners and crazy
motels – pull in for the best on the block.
The Shady dell
BisBee, ArizonA
Just a half-hour trundle from the Mexican
border is Shady Dell – a perfect introduction
to the weird world of the American trailer
park. There are plenty of grassy plots, of
course, just crying out for dusty RVs. But why
take your own when you can pick from the
collection of shiny silver Airstreams glinting
in the sunshine? (They’re the still-futuristic-
looking, spaceship-shaped motorhomes frst
built in the ’50s.) Or you might prefer the
sky-blue-and-white Tiki bus, or the 12m yacht.
All with absolutely no mod cons – expect
black-and-white TVs, cassette players, and
blonde-wood interiors. Dinner (and breakfast
and lunch) is at Dot’s Diner – housed in a 1957
railroad car. There are just 10 stools squeezed
around the gleaming aluminium counter, so
rise for breakfast early. From $55 for a small
towing caravan to $80 for an Airstream.
Shady Dell RV Park, 1 Old Douglas Road,
Bisbee, Arizona (www.theshadydell.com).
66 diner
AlBuquerque, new Mexico
Not many roads have had a TV series named
after them. But then Route 66 is not just any
old road. Built in 1937, the road eventually
joined up to stretch from Chicago to Santa
Monica, and before the ’60s series Route 66
was aired it had already seen Henry Fonda
hitchhiking his way along in The Grapes of
Wrath. More recently, Disney animation Cars
was based on real people and places along
the iconic 3,940km stretch. Your automobile
isn’t the only one that will need a decent
refuelling stop en route, and the Green Chile
Cheeseburgers at 66 Diner should get you
going. Road-weary travellers sit under pink
fuoro lights on stainless-steel swivel stools
glugging chocolate peanut-butter milkshakes
and shovelling down mammoth plates of
huevos rancheros and creamy chicken potpie.
Come up for air between mouthfuls to select
Buddy Holly tracks on the jukebox, or to fash
a glance at the life-size model of Marilyn
by the turquoise booth seats. Burgers from
$6.99. 1405 Central Avenue NE, Albuquerque,
New Mexico (www.66diner.com).
Movie Colony hoTel
PAlM sPrings, cAliforniA
A motel’s not a motel without its own legend
– and if the gossip along the Palm Springs
boulevards is to be believed, Jim Morrison
once leapt from the balcony of Movie Colony
Hotel into the pool. Forty years later and the
same pool is breast-stroked by media types
from LA (it’s just two hours away). And Movie
Colony is a fabulous motel to catch zeds in –
the rooms are California cool with seagrass
foors, retro monochrome bathrooms and
sunny terraces. The hotel was originally built
in 1935, designed by Modernist superstar
Albert Frey, and has all those photogenic
features nostalgic travellers crave – low-rise
living, in particular. Crucially, it’s a great pit
stop for road-trippers on the highway from
LA to Phoenix, or for those on the classic Las
Vegas-LA-San Diego circuit. From $99 B&B.
726 North Indian Canyon Drive, Palm Springs,
California (www.moviecolonyhotel.com).
KaTe’S lazy MeadoW MoTel
Mount treMPer, new York stAte
Set among expanses of rolling pastures next
to the Esopus creek is Kate’s Lazy Meadow
Motel, a peaceful red-and-green cabin.
Peaceful, that is, until starlet Mandy Moore’s
tour bus rumbles up (she took over the motel
for three nights during her tour a couple of
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September 2010 Kanoo World Traveller 49
‘Road-weary travellers sit
under pink fuoro lights on
stainless-steel swivel stools,
eating creamy chicken pie’
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50 Kanoo World Traveller September 2010 50 Kanoo World Traveller September 2010
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September 2010 Kanoo World Traveller 51
years ago). Truth be told, with or without
Ms Moore, there’s a bit of a riot going on
inside B-52 singer Kate Pierson’s motel in the
Catskill mountains. The place is crammed
with orange daisy-print bedspreads, coloured
gobstopper-studded spiral staircases, retro
lamps and ceramic dogs. Artists Phillip
Maberry and Scott Walker lent a hand with
the décor (their house was the set for the
‘Love Shack’ video, so you get the picture).
The lounge in Room Four features a river
scene mural studded with real branches and
gnomes bobbing downstream in rubber
rings. From $130 room only. 5191 Rt 28 Mount
Tremper, New York (www.lazymeadow.com).
ole WeST Bean’n’Burger
Athens, texAs
You may have devoured the occasional
mammoth fry-up in your home country – but
it’s a mere drop in an ocean of saturated fat
compared with what’s on ofer at the Ole
West Bean’n’Burger in Athens, Texas. Its
double-meat half-pounder approaches the
dimensions of a small African dictatorship
next to armband-sized onion rings and hefty
chips. And it’s not just Texas big, it’s also
mighty fne beef from the state’s sprawling
pastures. The Ole West is a pleasant enough
mix of check tablecloths and wood, but
in-the-know citizens have voted its burgers
the best in town. And they should know:
Athens claims to be the maternity ward of the
modern American burger – the place where,
in the late 1880s, café owner ‘Uncle’ Fletch
Davis frst put a meat patty between slices
of bread. You’re not just mainlining calories,
you’re scofng history. Double-meat half-
pounder $7. 1500 E Tyler Street, Athens, Texas
(+1 903 675 8100).
Mangrove MaMa’S
sugArloAf keY, floridA
Mangrove Mama’s is a ramshackle roadside
eatery down the Florida Keys – a string
of islands that skips south from Miami,
connected, join-the-dots-style, by the
overseas highway. The friendly pit stop is so
casual that it might have been washed up
with the tide. Littered with driftwood and
shaded by banana trees and palm fronds,
it has no-fuss concrete foors, mismatched
chairs and a brick freplace (an incongruous
addition, given the balmy climate). Despite
the humble surrounds, the menu is great:
stufed lobster and freshly grilled fsh, washed
down with mocktails served in salt-rimmed
jam jars. It’s the tangy key lime pie that draws
a loyal following, though; savour it outside in
the tropical garden. A Florida favourite, it’s
served super-chilled, and delivers a sugary
boost that’ll sustain you for the fnal hop
down to Key West, the end-of-the-road island
that marks the most southerly point in the US.
Key lime pie costs $5 a slice. Mile marker 20,
Sugarloaf Key, Florida (+1 305 745 3030).

MCdonald’S #1 STore MuSeuM
des PlAines, illinois
Fancy sinking your teeth into a Big Mac under
the original golden arches? Following uproar
when the world’s frst McDonald’s was torn
down in the early ’80s, the building rose
again (based on the chain’s original 1955
blueprints), Phoenix-like, and was turned
into a museum. The road sign of the frst
mascot, Speedee, is original, as are some
of the utensils on show – milkshake mixers,
fryers from the days when the all-male staf
(now replaced by waxy mannequins) actually
hand-cut the chips. There are no real burgers
served any more, but there is a working
McDonald’s across the road, where you can
order supersize portions among glass-cased
exhibits and displays of ties worn by the frst
staf. McDonald’s #1 Store Museum, 400 N
Lee Street, Des Plaines, Illinois (open from
May to September; www.mcdonalds.com).
Madonna inn
sAn luis oBisPo, cAliforniA
Kitsch. Extremely kitsch. Liberace cut
with Hansel and Gretel, and a dash of the
Flintstones thrown in for good measure
kitsch. Madonna Inn, halfway between LA and
’Frisco in San Luis Obispo, is a retina-searing
riot of pink and gold, camped up with boulder
waterfalls and bizarrely themed rooms. Take
your pick from the rose-splattered walls and
bedspread of ‘American Beauty’; the red
ceiling of ‘Madonna’ (a nice juxtaposition to its
waterfall sink and rock walls); or the boulder-
coated cocoon of ‘Caveman’ with its leopard-
print bedspread. Not staying? Book dinner
amid the bordello chic of the Gold Rush steak
house, or try a creamy Black Forest gâteau
in the Alpine-style bakery – perfect for the
blistering California sun outside. From $140
room only. 100 Madonna Road, San Luis
Obispo, California (www.madonnainn.com).
‘Mangrove Mama’s
tangy key lime pie
will sustain you for
the fnal hop down
to Key West’
Clockwise from top left: Movie Colony Hotel; The Shady
Dell; Kate’s Lazy Meadow Motel; You can’t beat an
American burger; Madonna Inn; Service with a smile is
standard in diners (just make sure you tip accordingly).
learn the lingo
Sweet talk: be sure to learn some American
diner slang before you order. ‘Deadeye’ is a
poached egg; ‘keep of the grass’ means no
lettuce; ‘axle grease’ is butter; ‘frst lady’ is an
order of spare ribs; while a ‘blonde with sand’
is cofee with cream and sugar.
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52 Kanoo World Traveller September 2010
lost in transmission
to discover all there is to know about la, says John Arlidge,
get behind the wheel.
n
ew York may be the city that never sleeps
but lA is a metropolis on the move. it’s
midnight and i’m standing on the terrace of
producer rob reiner’s home. in front of me,
lava streaks of suVs speed west on santa
Monica Boulevard. to my left, skyscrapers
glow red and white, caught in the lights of
thousands of stop-start cars. to the right, the
beams of ocean Avenue convertibles pick out
Pacifc coast highway 1 and the ocean beyond.
LA can be one big trafc jam, but choose
your moments, and it is also the greatest
driving city in America. Take to the wheel
of a large automobile and you’ll fnd out
everything you need to know about the place.
Just ask Anne Block, who runs the city’s frst
drive tour, ‘To Live and Drive in LA’ (www.
takemymotherplease.com). We meet in the car
park of the Four Seasons Hotel in Beverly Hills.
Block is sitting behind the wheel of her 1998
Cadillac Sedan DeVille. ‘Welcome to LA,’ she
smiles, as she steps out and hands me the key
to a clunky-looking hybrid – half-electric, half-
petrol – Ford Escape. ‘You have to drive the car
of the moment and, right now, that means a
hybrid. We’ve gone green overnight.’
First, though, I need to get my bearings.
‘We don’t do maps in LA, we have something
better,’ says Anne. ‘Come see.’ Half an hour
later, I ease into the car park at the Getty
Center art museum, high in the Hollywood hills,
and walk past the Monets and Rembrandts on
to the terrace to admire the best picture of all.
Stretched out before me like a giant tableau is
LA. To the right are the coastal districts of Santa
Monica, Malibu and Venice. In front are Beverly
Hills and Century City. Below is Hollywood.
Left, rising through the grey fog and haze, is
Downtown and, behind it, South Central.
‘Now, you need a little history,’ says Anne.
We head downtown on the 10 Freeway and pull
over at a sign that reads ‘Historic Arroyo Seco
Parkway’. ‘Dry Creek Road’ may not sound like
much, but this is where every road trip should
start: ‘This is the frst freeway in America, built
in the 1940s,’ Anne explains. ‘It’s the road that
convinced Americans that freedom is only a
drive away. It has shaped everything in LA.’
As we rumble over the freeway, I realise it’s
true. LA is a city more about cars and motion
(pictures) than anything static. There are few
skyscrapers because when the city grew –
thanks to roads – it expanded ouwards,
52 Kanoo World Traveller September 2010
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54 Kanoo World Traveller September 2010
not upwards. In a town that is bigger than most
island nations, pedestrians are an endangered
species. And what you drive tells the world
who you are or, at least, who you want to be.
Everything hangs in a hubcap’s balance.
So, before we start cruising, we need to
make sure we look good. ‘Twenty dollars for the
wash and wax, please,’ says Maurice Aguillera,
head valet at La Cienega car wash on La
Cienega Boulevard. ‘You want cherry soda?’ No
thanks. ‘How about lemon lime?’ No, really, I’m
not thirsty. Anne laughs. ‘It’s not for you. Give
the car a new smell.’ I opt for ‘New Car’.
‘Where do you want to cruise frst?’ asks
Anne. A light blings on in my head. ‘South
Central.’ If my car really is the right ride, the
place to pose will be the home of the low-
rider, ‘tricked out’ with chrome wheels and
vanity licence plates: the ghetto. On Crenshaw
Boulevard I meet Mario Don, who runs the
Magic Shears Afro Hair Salon, and drives a
black Rolls-Royce Silver Shadow. ‘Sweet ride,’
he says, admiring my car. But being green isn’t
enough. ‘This is LA,’ he says. ‘People care about
your character but they care more about what
you got. If I were you, I’d get a second car, to
impress. A Ferrari – you know what I’m saying?’
A $930,000 Ferrari Enzo stands on the
forecourt of Black on Black Motor Sports in
law-abiding citizen
Don’t cruise up and down Sunset Boulevard
at night – it’s been made illegal to reduce noise
and racing. Tip valet parkers $5-$10. Don’t have
an accident in Beverly Hills: you won’t fnd a
hospital in that part of the city, ‘because nobody
ever gets ill in Beverly Hills’. Always stop dead at
a Stop sign. Even slowly rolling past one, when
the road ahead is clear, can mean a $195 fne.
Motorways are called freeways. The speed limit
on Californian freeways is 65mph (100kph); on
other roads it’s 25mph (40kph). LA roads can be
up to 40km long, so don’t use street numbers
to navigate: ask for the ‘cross street’ – which
crosses the main road – nearest your destination.
KWT Total guide September.indd 54 8/30/2010 11:20:15 AM
total guide | uSa Road tRip
September 2010 Kanoo World Traveller 55
Beverly Hills, half an hour from South Central.
Manager Rick Black says he has a full order
book for the next 12 months, ‘but some
customers change cars every month, so I’ll get
a few back in.’ Every month? ‘They get bored.
Or the ashtrays get full.’ He’s only half joking.
Where can I see the people who change
their cars more often than their therapist, I
ask Anne? It’s a short run, via the Petersen
Automotive Museum on Wilshire Boulevard, to
palm-lined Rodeo Drive. ‘On this street, how
you arrive is more important than what you
wear,’ says Anne. Right on cue, a woman who’s
had so much cosmetic surgery she surely no
longer remembers what she originally looked
like, arrives in a canary-yellow Hummer. She
checks in her two cocker spaniels – pets are
accessories, after all – at the Beverly Wilshire
hotel and totters towards Prada.
‘Hey lady, what war are you fghting?’ a
passer-by shouts, pointing at her giant military
vehicle. The environmental lobby may have
made it to Beverly Hills but the surgery queen
is unimpressed. She raises a drawn-on eyebrow
and shouts, ‘The planet is so O-V-E-R’.
I need some fresh air. Pacifc Coast Highway
1 runs north to San Francisco – after Route
66, it’s the most famous stretch of Tarmac in
America. We soon leave the smog behind and
enjoy the spume-fecked breeze as we head for
Duke’s Barefoot Lounge in Malibu, a restaurant
set up by Duke Kahanamoku, the Hawaiian who
brought surfng to the USA.
Maybe it’s the Huli Huli sandwich, maybe the
sun has fried our brains, but after lunch I wish
we could throw caution – not to mention taste
– to the wind and head north, singing soft rock
classics all the way to Santa Barbara. But this is
an LA story, so instead we head back down the
coast and pull onto Sunset Boulevard. It’s 40km
long and runs from the Pacifc to Downtown,
passing through Brentwood, Bel Air, Beverly
Hills and Hollywood.
Later, Anne takes me to Miyagi’s restaurant.
It has a giant raised car park and a driveway
that leads right up to the best tables. There’s
a new Bentley Azure on the driveway. It’s time
to tackle those great taste-makers of California
car culture: valet parkers. Does my Escape have
enough ‘pull’ to park out front within ogling
distance of the best tables? I give the head
valet parker my best ‘out front’ look. He barks:
‘Move the Bentley. The Escape is coming in.’
Why? ‘The biggest tippers are driving them
funny new electrics these days,’ he replies.
After feasting on sushi and snippets of
conversation between Hollywood actors and
their leather-skinned agents, Anne and I drive
into the hills to catch the last of the sun from
Mulholland Drive. I pull over, turn of the engine
and listen to the cicadas. The soundtrack is
pure Tuscany, but staring down at the twinkling
tail-lights like a billion stars, I could only be in
the most car-centric city in the world.
Then it’s of to Rob Reiner’s home: tonight’s
party venue for exclusive London club Soho
House. On the way, we speed through a tunnel
negotiated by Jamie Foxx and Tom Cruise in
Collateral. The basso thump of the engine as it
bounces of the tiles is movie poetry. When we
arrive, the Escape does it again. The security
steakheads don’t let just anyone in but, seeing
the car, they fgure Anne and I are anything but
anyone. We walk in past Leonardo DiCaprio and
Sharon Stone, enjoying our new-found status.
As we stare out from the terrace over the city,
I realise that we’ve travelled more than 240km,
taken in hilltop roads, palm-lined boulevards,
the ocean, and fnished where we started.
‘We’ve gone nowhere – and everywhere. That’s
weird,’ I tell Anne. ‘That,’ she smiles, ‘is LA.’
‘Seeing the car, the
security guards
fgure we’re anything
but no one’
Clockwise from top left: Santa Monica Pier; Lifeguards
patrol the beaches; In Los Angeles what matters is not
what you wear but what you drive; Queensway Bay.
KWT Total guide September.indd 55 8/30/2010 11:20:18 AM
56 Kanoo World Traveller September 2010
Keep rolling
telephone poles stretching into infnity; wailing a-trains; blinking motel signs. So evocative
is the american road movie that it’s tough not to book your fights to the uS while the credits
are still rolling. Here are four classics, plus the crucial crib notes to recreate the trip.
eaSy rider
(dennis hopper, 1969)
This is the flm that
launched a thousand
bike trips, as the laid-
back Wyatt, played by
Peter Fonda, and Billy
(Dennis Hopper), his
uncool sidekick, rev their way from Mexico
to New Orleans for Mardi Gras. Easy Rider
features road-movie motifs galore: striated
pink and purple sunsets, neon-lit motels,
desert gas stations, and a classic soundtrack by
Steppenwolf, Hendrix and Dylan. On their way
to New Orleans, they pass through numerous
clashing Americas, from a hippie commune
already going to seed, to the ultimately lethal
redneck territories of the Deep South. Even
the non-speaking characters stand out: a
moustachioed café proprietress in gingham
smirking as her bigoted regulars taunt the duo
of the premises, or the black farming family,
who simply wave as they pass. This is a picture
of an America that’s deeply uneasy with itself,
whose lingering divisions resonate even today.
THE ROUTE: Interstate 10, from El Paso in
Texas, on the Mexican border, to New Orleans.
That’s almost 2,000km across two states so
you’ll need a week.
RELIVE THE MOMENT: The famous scene
in the redneck café, featuring genuine locals,
takes place in the village of Morganza,
northwest of New Orleans, of Highway 61.
MOST ROADWORTHY QUOTE: ‘What you
represent to them is freedom… Talking about
it and being it, that’s two diferent things.’
BadlandS
(terrence Malick, 1973)
‘Little did I realise that
what began in the
alleys and backways
of this quiet town
would end in the
badlands of Montana.’
So says 15-year-old
Holly (Sissy Spacek) who watches her life
degenerate from a straightforward across-
the-tracks teen romance into a bloodbath, as
Kit (Martin Sheen) hones his shooting skills on
Spacek’s dismal father, and is soon applying
them liberally across two states. It’s a bleak
introduction to Badlands National Park, yet
the movie still pulls fans across the Atlantic.
It’s down to Badlands’ haunting but irresistible
portrait of the Midwest: craggy, Stetsoned old
men; small-time school ma’ams; and petrol
pump attendants standing solitary among sun-
faked Pepsi-Cola murals.
THE ROUTE: Interstate 90, from South Dakota
through Wyoming to Montana – roughly
600km, which you could do in a long weekend.
RELIVE THE MOMENT: For details on South
Dakota’s Badlands National Park, visit www.
allblackhills.com/badlands.
MOST ROADWORTHY QUOTE: ‘Through
desert and mesa, across endless miles of open
range we made our headlong way, steering by
the telephone lines towards Montana.’
KWT Total guide September.indd 56 8/26/2010 4:40:02 PM
total guIde | uSa Road tRIp
September 2010 Kanoo World Traveller 57
ThelMa & louiSe
(ridley scott, 1991)
Sixties America didn’t
hold much for the
country girl. Take
Thelma. She has no car,
no money and barely
leaves the house for fear
of a beating from her brutish husband. Thelma
does, however, have Louise. And together,
without telling a soul, Thelma, played by Geena
Davis, and Louise (Susan Sarandon) embark on
a journey that takes them to one of the most
memorable flm endings ever made. Slipping
of the shackles of suburban living, the girls
speed of for a weekend in the mountains in
their iconic 1966 green Thunderbird – but after
stopping at a roadside café, their plans soon
head downhill when Louise shoots a man dead.
With the law hot on their heels, so begins the
infamous road trip that makes this flm the
showpiece of a repressed feminine era. Taking
on the men of America, they shoot their way
towards Mexico.
THE ROUTE: From Oklahoma suburbia to
Mexico, purposely avoiding Texas (look at a
map and you’ll appreciate how difcult that
is). We suggest you just do the New Mexico
to Grand Canyon bit, which measures about
1,200km (roughly two days).
RELIVE THE MOMENT: Look out for Court
House Towers in Arches National Park, Utah, for
the memorable scene where the policeman was
locked in his trunk.
MOST ROADWORTHY QUOTE: ‘You shoot of
a guy’s head, believe me, Texas ain’t the place
you want to get caught.’
PariS, TexaS
(wim wenders, 1984)
A bearded man picks
his solitary way across
the blinding emptiness
of America’s southern
desert. Soon he has been
rescued by his brother
and the road trip begins, up through Texas, all
the way to LA and back down again. Along the
way, Harry Dean Stanton’s mute Travis regains
frst his speech, then his memory and his life,
journeying with his son in a beaten-up truck
in search of the boy’s mother – a peroxided
Nastassja Kinski. With the help of a melancholy
soundtrack by Ry Cooder, the endless scrub
takes on the look of a lunar landscape – this
is archetypal road trip territory. Here, away
from the mainstream cities, lies another hidden
America, like the life beneath a rock.
THE ROUTE: The section of Interstate 10 that
runs from Texas through New Mexico to Los
Angeles – about 2,500km. You’ll need a week.
RELIVE THE MOMENT: The dramatic desert
landscapes in the opening scenes of the flm
are in Big Bend National Park, Texas. Take
Interstate 90 to Marathon, then drive 110km
south to the park’s headquarters.
MOST ROADWORTHY QUOTE: A sign on
the wall of a forgotten desert diner says: ‘The
dust has come to stay. You may stay or pass
on through or whatever.’ I
m
a
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e
s
:

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.

Top: Thelma and Louise knew how to have fun during
a pitstop. Opposite: The bleak landscapes of Badlands.
Your total guide to USA
road trips, in association with
KWT Total guide September.indd 57 8/26/2010 4:40:08 PM
58 Kanoo World Traveller September 2010
EASY TIG R
It’s all efortless ‘rustic-luxe’ in the safari camps of India,
fnds Josephine Davies. But hunting the big cats is still
a challenge – especially when they’re hunting you too…
KWT Easy Tiger India September.indd 58 8/26/2010 11:48:24 AM
IndIa
|
tIger safarI
September 2010 Kanoo World Traveller 59
K
artikeya is not happy
with me. Moustache
twitching, he squints in
the buttery early morning
light, scanning the landscape for a
suitable spot. ‘there.’ He points to a
small, straggly bush just of the dusty
track. ‘But be quick, stay alert and don’t
wander of.’ as loo breaks go, this must
be the scariest I’ve ever experienced. I
sheepishly climb down from the Jeep
and make a mental note to decline the
pre-safari masala chai (sweet Indian
tea) next time.
It’s just after dawn in India’s Bandhavgarh
National Park, home to one of the highest
densities of tigers in the world – and I have
broken one of our guide’s golden rules: never
get out of your vehicle. Hurrying back to the
safety of our olive-green, open-top Jeep,
the stillness is suddenly pierced by a high-
pitched ‘whoop-whoop’ noise. Kartikeya
jumps up, fxing his binoculars on the dense
tangle of forest right behind the bush I have
just emerged from. ‘Alarm calls from spotted
deer – quick, get in. There’s a predator close
by,’ he whispers urgently. We watch and
wait, hearts thudding like drums. Suddenly,
two peacocks burst out noisily from the
undergrowth, shimmying and shaking their
emerald-blue tails like Vegas showgirls.
Kartikeya fashes us a Colgate-white grin and
we continue onwards, bumping gently along
the trail as sunlight slices through the trees
in dazzling tiger-like stripes.
Just three days ago, we had arrived in
the sun-baked state of Madhya Pradesh,
India’s dry and dusty heartland (there’s a
monument here marking the very middle
of the sub-continent). Tuk-tuks buzzed
like angry hornets as we pulled away from
Nagpur Airport, while ladies riding side-
saddle on scooters weaved deftly among the
trafc, their saris billowing out behind them
like gaudy streamers. It was a colourful urban
scene typical of any city in India, streets flled
with the scents of ghee and spices, and the
clamour and clatter of hawkers. But just an
hour and a half’s drive later, we were deep
in tiger country. Here, the monsoon was still
months away, the landscape painted in an
autumnal palette of gold and brown beneath
a cloudless cobalt sky.
India’s elusive, endangered felines once
roamed freely across this enormous state
(one of the country’s largest, but seldom
visited by tourists). Now a network of
national parks provides the beasts with
safe(ish) pockets of protected jungle,
although illegal poaching means numbers
are still dwindling. To see one in the wild is
a privileged experience – future generations
may not be so lucky – and for the best
chance of spotting one, we had decided to
take in not one, but three nature reserves:
Pench, Panna and Bandhavgarh. The frst
stop on our week-long wildlife circuit is
KWT Easy Tiger India September.indd 59 8/26/2010 11:48:29 AM
60 Kanoo World Traveller September 2010
Pench, an unspoiled wilderness of shadowy
teak forests and rushing streams straight
out of The Jungle Book. In fact, it was the
inspiration for Kipling’s famous work. ‘Shere
Khan is lurking in there somewhere,’ said
my husband dramatically as he gazed into
the impenetrable vegetation beyond. My
thoughts, however, were frmly focused on
the more material comforts that awaited us:
a cool drink and a long shower to wash away
the red dust that clung to my skin.
Baghvan is one of a handful of supremely
stylish safari camps dotted around Madhya
Pradesh, and oozes rustic-luxe from every
corner. Our suite comes with an open-air
shower that faces the brooding forest
beyond (the hotel lies right on the edge
of Pench reserve). As butterfies dance in
the rising steam, I rinse the shampoo from
my hair while keeping a careful eye on the
rustling vegetation – just in case.
The next day, we clamber into the poshest
Jeep I’ve ever seen and sit on raised, throne-
like seats while Karun, our enthusiastic guide,
Clockwise from below left: Spotted deer drink
at a jungle watering hole; Looking for tigers in
Bandhavgarh National Park; Ready for dinner at
the Baghvan safari camp. Opposite: Bandhavgarh
National Park is Shere Khan territory.
takes us deep into the park. He is incredibly
adept at multi-tasking, steering us along the
rough tracks while simultaneously swivelling
his head around like an owl to chat and point
out interesting fauna.
We learn to tell the diference between
Bambi-cute spotted deer and their sturdier,
darker cousins, Sambar deer. We spot jewel-
bright bee-eaters and kingfshers, crested
serpent eagles and tiny owlets huddled in
tree hollows like feather dusters. We watch
anxiously as a hungry jackal chases a fawn
– and sigh with relief when it bounds away
unharmed. We spend hours watching muddy
watering holes, where black-faced langur
monkeys sit on dead tree trunks like old
men on park benches, cradling their furry
white bellies. We even become accustomed
to the blood-curling screams of tourists
being eaten alive (the sounds are, in fact, the
mating calls of spotted deer).
We don’t see any tigers. They, however,
are watching us. Fresh paw marks the size
of dinner plates are imprinted deep in the
‘Pench is a wilderness of shadowy forests and
rushing streams straight out of The Jungle Book’
KWT Easy Tiger India September.indd 60 8/26/2010 11:48:52 AM
IndIa
|
tIger safarI
September 2010 Kanoo World Traveller 61
IndIa
|
tIger safarI
KWT Easy Tiger India September.indd 61 8/26/2010 11:49:07 AM
62 Kanoo World Traveller September 2010
‘There’s nothing like the sight of 300 kilos
of fur and fangs approaching to wake you up’
sandy paths. Freddy Krueger-like claw marks scar teak trees, etched
deep into the bark fve metres up. We start to realise the awesome
size of this predator, and suddenly the Jeep feels rather exposed. We
quiz Karun about close encounters (he has had plenty) and ask him
if he ever gets scared. He laughs. ‘If they wanted to, they could jump
in and eat us, but they don’t.’ I shiver despite the warm breeze and
another chorus of alarm calls lets us know that we are not alone.
Go on safari in Africa and you simply view the wildlife. In India,
you must track it – which is at once frustrating and immensely more
exciting. It takes patience: at Panna – another immodestly beautiful
park riddled with deep gorges and wide rivers where plump crocs
wallow expectantly – we search in vain. But tigers or no tigers, the
landscape here is a scene-stealer, and we leave awed by a wild side
of India we never knew existed.
It’s back to business at Bandhavgarh, however. This park, we
are told, is our best shot – home to 50-odd felines, with sightings
reported just days before our arrival. If Pench feels remote, this vast
reserve – 448sq km of open grasslands and knotted jungle – feels
even more so. The nearest town is the sleepy backwater of Umaria,
best reached by light aircraft (unless you fancy a serious overland
slog). As we touched down on the airstrip, kids scrambled to the
rooftops, jumping up and down and waving madly. Tumbling out
onto the hot tarmac, we were met by the smiling manager of Mahua
Kothi, another handsome hideaway, made of mud-walled huts that
hide sumptuous rooms with sink-in beds and deep tubs.
Gitandra (or ‘Geet’ as he prefers to be called) had never seen a
tiger before he was posted to Mahua Kothi. But his frst encounter
required little efort. ‘It was over there,’ he says, gesturing at a small
watering hole just a few hundred metres from our room. ‘It was dusk,
and I glanced up – he was lapping water and watching me.’ I decided
right then to take up his ofer of sending over a chaperone to our hut
for the moonlit walk to dinner later that evening.
Beneath the shade of a giant Banyan tree, we clink glasses with
other khaki-clad guests, feasting on delicately spiced dhal and
deliciously rich curries as the jungle hums with nocturnal life. I’m
still groggy when we’re woken at 4.30am the next morning with
KWT Easy Tiger India September.indd 62 8/26/2010 11:49:40 AM
IndIa
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tIger safarI
September 2010 Kanoo World Traveller 63
sweet tea and fapjacks. Mist hangs low over the grassy meadows;
the breezeless air is damp and cool. Shivering, we hug the hot-water
bottles and blankets laid out in the Jeep, and doze gratefully during
the short ride to the park entrance.
I’m still half-asleep when we see the tiger stalking silently towards
us. But there’s nothing like the sight of 300 kilos of fur and fangs
approaching to wake you up. After days of watching and waiting, we
forget to take pictures or even reach for our binoculars (he’s so close,
there’s no need). I barely remember to breathe as he pads through
the long grass, russet stripes blending with the dappled vegetation.
Then he looks up and fxes me with a serial-killer stare that says, ‘I
could have you for breakfast.’
Instead of proving his point, however, he nonchalantly sprawls
across the path, thick folds of velvety fur spilling around his neck, and
throws back his head in a yawn, giving us a superb view of his ferce
dentistry. There’s an unsettling awareness that we have rejoined
the food chain. The machine-gun fre of camera shutters signals the
arrival of other Jeeps, and with a fick of his tail the tiger – a young
male, Kartikeya tells us – slopes back into the shadows.
A few hours later, we get the chance to get even closer to him.
He’s been seen sunning himself on a rocky escarpment – too steep
for Jeeps to get near. So we switch to an elephant, swaying as it
crashes through the foliage. ‘Won’t he, um, hear us coming?’ asks my
husband. And the tiger has indeed gone; straining into the distance,
we see no sign of it. I’m disappointed, but feel fortunate to have had
our brief encounter earlier.
Suddenly the mahout yelps and tries frantically to hit reverse (the
elephant is having none of it). Just a few metres below our dangling
fip-fops lies the snarling tiger, teeth bared and understandably
disgruntled at having his nap interrupted. We are so close I can count
his whiskers. It’s thrilling, terrifying and utterly mesmerising – so
much so that I completely forget my desperate need to pee.
Opposite: You never know who’s watching from afar. This page, clockwise from
top left: Mahua Kothi at dusk; Bedroom suite at same hotel; Luxurious bathing
at Mahua Kothi; My, what big teeth you have; Safari at Pench National Park.
Where to stay
Baghvan, in Pench National Park,
and Mahua Kothi, in Bandhavgarh
National Park, are both luxurious
Taj safari lodges. Each property
ofers accommodation from $685
per night. www.tajhotels.com
When to go
Avoid monsoon season (June to
September) when parks are closed
due to rain and fooding. Visit
between November and February
as April and May are too hot, with
temperatures reaching up to 40ºC.
the brief
I
m
a
g
e
s
:

P
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i
b
r
a
r
y
;

i
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p
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;

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s
.
KWT Easy Tiger India September.indd 63 8/26/2010 11:50:38 AM
12 Kanoo World Traveller September 2010
The above package prices are
inclusive of The following:
• 2nightsaccommodationatyour
selectedhotelfrom8–10October,2010
• Dailybreakfast
• ReturnairporttransferonDay1&Day3
(KLIA/KLCITYHOTEL/KLIA)
• Returntransferon9thOctober
betweenhotelandSepangInternational
Circuitonprivatebasis
• Mobilephonesimcard
remarks
• Packagevalidfortheperiodof8–10
October,2010only.
• Packagerateisbasedonminimum2
personsperconfrmedbooking.
• 50%surchargeisapplicablefortransfer
between2300hrs–0600hrs.
• Pricesaresubjecttochangewithout
priornotice,Kanootermsand
conditionsapplytoallbooking.
for more informaTion and reservaTions,
conTacT:
dammam, saudi arabia:+96638355642/632/8355645
riyadh, saudi arabia :+96614634454/2933740/4652834
Jeddah, saudi arabia:+96622632875/2633040
mahooz, bahrain:+97317828801/828792/828793
doha, Qatar:+9744483777/4483704
dubai, uae: +97143341444
abu dhabi, uae:+97126313900
muscat, oman:+96824700249/24700279
(08 – 10 October 2010)
Malaysian
Grand Prix 2010
HOTEL
*priceisperperson
1 PERSON 2 PERSONS & ABOVE EXTENSION STAY
SingleTraveller
[Perpersonperpackage]
SingleOccupancy
[Perpersonperpackage]
TwinShare
[Perpersonperpackage]
SingleOccupancy
[Perpersonperpackage]
TwinShare
[Perpersonperpackage]
HOTEL SENTRAL (3*) USD360 USD237 USD183 USD53 USD27
HOTEL CORONAdE (4*) USD440 USD314 USD223 USD92 USD46
HOTEL ISTANA (5*) USD476 USD360 USD246 USD116 USD58
KWT Kanoo advert September.indd 12 8/30/2010 11:23:39 AM
Is there much to see and do on the island?
Absolutely – the Seychelles location makes it perfect for conservation
walks (which are turtle and bird-focused), and you can check out the
baby turtle hatchery, feed giant tortoises, cycle through the coconut
plantations, go for picnics, play tennis, have a go at sea-kayaking, visit the
local Creole village, or simply chill out in the spa and sample our new Dr.
Hauschka facials.
What makes Desroches unique?
Where do I start? Firstly, we have an all-inclusive concept, meaning you
don’t need to worry about additional costs. Then there are our gorgeous
four-bedroom family villas, deep-sea fshing, and diving opportunities
(Desroches has some of the world’s best scuba sites). We ofer private
island living, with just a handful of villas and suites on the island and no
other hotels in sight: ours is the only one in the Amirantes Islands. We’ve
also just opened the Castaway Centre, the biggest of its kind in the
Seychelles, which provides state-of-the-art diving and sailing equipment –
all guests need to bring is their diving licence.
What can I eat on Desroches?
Fresh fsh and seafood, spicy Creole cuisine, fresh salads and wood-fred
pizza – we had oyster platters last night (delish!). Le Veloutier, the main
restaurant, overlooks the infnity pool and the beach – it’s beautiful.
www.desroches-island.com
The 30-second concierge
Avi PArAhoo, heAd villA host, desroches islAnd
concierge
seychelles | Jakarta | cardif | Matera
September 2010 Kanoo World traveller 65
KWT Concierge opener September.indd 65 8/30/2010 11:26:19 AM
66 Kanoo World Traveller September 2010
Fire-breathing displays, contemporary art exhibitions and designer shopping are all in a day’s
work when you visit southeast Asia’s largest city – just make sure you plan around the trafc.
Indonesia
Visit JaKarTa
JAKARTA MUST-DOS
The Dutch architecture in
Fatahillah Square, Kota (the old
town), is slightly out of place but
is a fascinating reminder of the
city’s colonial past. Head here on
a Friday or Saturday night to see
fre-breathers and glass-eaters.
Want to shop but can’t shake
the feeling that you ought
to be doing something more
cultural? Alleviate the guilt by
making Grand Indonesia (Jalan
Mohammad, Husni Thamrin; www.
grand-indonesia.com) your mall of
choice – its basement was turned
into modern gallery space Jakarta
Art District earlier this year.
Alternatively, you can pick up
anything from traditional Javanese
masks to vintage records at Jalan
Surabaya, an authentic, open-air
antiques market in the Menteng
neighbourhood. It’s quiet, shady
and a manageable size.
In the mood for haggling and
street food? Glodok (Chinatown)
is the place for you, just hold onto
your handbag.
There’s no denying that
National Museum (12 Jl Medan
Merdeka Barat, Gambir 10110, +62
21 386 8172, open Tue-Sun 9am-
3pm) could do with modernising,
if only for the sake of A/C – but its
collections of ancient Indonesian
artefacts make the heat worth it.
Indonesia is the world’s largest
Muslim country, so it’s only ftting
that it has a suitably impressive
mosque – cue the Masjid Istiqlal
(Jalan Taman Wijaya Kusuma),
with fve foors and room for up to
250,000 worshippers at a time.
J
akarta is not a city anyone forgets in a hurry. Its
nickname, ‘The Big Durian’, perfectly sums up the
Indonesian capital’s divisive nature: just like the pungent
fruit, you’ll either love it or hate it. The poverty gap is
unabashedly visible, the city is so sprawling that walking
is not an option (make sure you know which district
you’re heading for before getting in a taxi) and the
smog is horrendous – but few places are as intoxicating.
No matter the hour, the streets throb with life –
hawkers fog handicrafts and everywhere you look
are people who’ve followed the bright lights and are
determined to make their fortune where countless
others have failed. Alongside this warts-’n’-all scene,
mall culture has well and truly hit, and if you’re on the
hunt for designer goods and air-conditioned environs
you’ll be spoilt for choice. Come nightfall, sample the
high-end lounges of Plaza Indonesia’s EX Annex, or, for
a more alternative experience, check out the world-class
underground music scene.
KWT Jakarta September.indd 66 8/26/2010 4:28:34 PM
concIerge | Jakarta
September 2010 Kanoo World Traveller 67
wheRe TO STAy
Kemang Icon by Alila
Jl Kemang Raya 1,
www.alilahotels.com
This all-suite, boutique hotel in
south Jakarta sits above two foors
of exclusive shops. It has über-
slinky, individually designed rooms
and a divine rooftop infnity pool.
From $185 room only.
Mandarin Oriental Jakarta
Jl MH Thamrin,
www.mandarinoriental.com
The recently refurbished bedrooms
at the Mandarin Oriental are
sleek and contemporary – think
cool neutrals complemented by
splashes of scarlet or turquoise –
and bathrooms feature huge bath
tubs and dark wood units. From
$160 room only.
wheRe TO eAT
Payon
Jl Kemang Raya 17, Kemang,
+62 21 719 4826
The atmospheric outdoor pagoda
setting means Payon is always
buzzing, and its spicy rice dishes
ensure it has plenty of repeat
customers – so be sure to book
ahead. Mains from $8.
Tesate
Plaza Senayan, 4th foor, Jl Asia
Afrika, www.tesate.com
Accessed via a corridor with
Javanese script light-projected
onto its walls, this new satay
restaurant is seriously upmarket.
Cashews, rather than peanuts,
are used in the signature sauce,
making for a smooth, decadent
favour. Mains from $15.
ARGY BAJAJY: In a hurry? Swerve around the trafc in a bajaj, the
bright-orange Indonesian answer to thai tuk-tuks. FISH OUT OF
WATER: Indonesia is home to the walking catfsh, which can wriggle
out of water and even up trees in quest of food.
Opposite: You
couldn’t get much
more central than
the Mandarin
Oriental. This page,
clockwise from
top left: Travel in
style in a bajaj;
Luxury at the
Mandarin Oriental;
The Kemang Icon’s
swimming pool;
Executive suite at
same hotel; Tasty
Indonesian satay.
jakarta
National Museum
Kemang Icon
Glodok
Mandarin Oriental
Payon
Tesate
Grand Indonesia
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Masjid Istiqlal
KWT Jakarta September.indd 67 8/26/2010 4:28:55 PM
68 Kanoo World Traveller September 2010
From epic rugby matches to fairytale
castles, Cardif is the city that has it all.
Wales
Visit Cardiff
C
ardif is one of the most afordable cities in the UK and yet also one of the nicest. Huge green spaces, a
gorgeous castle in the city centre and excellent shopping make it a popular tourist destination, and investment
in the older areas – most notably the now-swanky Cardif Bay, which provides the set for much of the Doctor Who
television series – has attracted young, wealthy professionals whose presence only enhances the cosmopolitan buzz.
The Welsh are a notoriously patriotic bunch and never is this more obvious than on match days for the national
sport: rugby. But while they may roar with pride for their national team, the locals are generally garrulous and
friendly, welcoming visitors with open arms (and more often than not, an invitation to join them for a drink). Many
of Cardif’s buildings were either built or revamped in the 19th century by then-richest man in the world John Patrick
Crichton-Stuart, third Marquess of Bute, whose tastes veered towards the fairytale-esque, though cutting-edge
design is also evident nowadays in the modern developments.
KWT Cardiff September.indd 68 8/26/2010 2:38:38 PM
ConCierge | Cardiff
September 2010 Kanoo World Traveller 69
CARDIFF MUST-DOS
Explore the city centre, frst
taking in the Arcades – a network
of Victorian shopping complexes
laced with one-of boutiques
– and then St David’s (www.
stdavidscardif.com), a huge
new mall ofering myriad British
favourites, from department
stores like John Lewis and Marks
& Spencer to smaller home-grown
specialists including accessories
shop Ollie & Nic and Karen Millen
for frocks.
Catch a rugby match at the
Millennium Stadium (www.
millenniumstadium.com), the
74,200-capacity venue that
hosted the FA Cup Final while
Wembley was being redeveloped.
The atmosphere is indescribable.
If no one’s playing, it’s still well
worth booking yourself onto a
tour of the enormous grounds.
Escape the hustle and bustle
with a riverside bike ride along the
pretty Taf Trail to the gorgeous
Castell Coch, a fairytale-style
castle surrounded by forest. Then,
back in the city, stroll around
Cardif Castle (www.cardifcastle.
com), which was built on the
foundations of a Roman fort and
decorated in painstaking detail.
Watch the sun set over Cardif
Bay before sampling the city’s
fnest mocktails and dim-sum at
the chic Ba Orient (www.baorient.
com) – then take in a performance
by the Welsh National Opera at
the stunning Millennium Centre
(www.wmc.org.uk).
Have a picnic in Bute Park, a
glorious (and huge) green space
in the city centre that’s fanked
by Cardif Castle, the River Taf,
Sophia Gardens and Pontcanna
Fields. The mature parkland is
home to a wide array of wildlife as
well as ornamental and rare trees
– a true joy to visit.
Do a day trip to the Gower
peninsula, about 90 minutes’
drive from the city. Its expanses
of rugged coastline and deserted
beaches are simply breathtaking.
TAKE A DEEP BREATH: if you get time, head north to
Llanfairpwllgwyngyllgogerychwyrndrobwllllantysiliogogogoch, if
only to be photographed by the welcome sign for what is the longest-
named town in europe. YOU SAY TOMATO… AND SO DO THEY:
only 20 per cent of Wales’s population is fuent in Welsh – english is
far more widely spoken, so you can leave the phrasebook at home.
Opposite, clockwise
from left: Cardif
Castle; Castell
Coch; Rugby – the
national sport;
Cardif Bay. This
page, clockwise
from below: Wales
Millennium Centre;
Arcade shopping;
Master suite at St
David’s Hotel & Spa.
wheRe TO STAy
St David’s Hotel & Spa
Havannah Street,
www.thestdavidshotel.com
The light-fooded rooms at this
high-end hotel feature Cardif Bay
views and cool décor (we love the
fur throws) – plus the Marine Spa
has been voted one of the world’s
best. From $250 room only.
Lincoln House
Cathedral Road,
www.lincolnhotel.co.uk
The owners of this intimate
Victorian townhouse have
retained its period features – tiled
foors, intricate cornicing – and, as
well as sumptuous four-posters,
added modern touches including
animal prints. From $135 B&B.
wheRe TO eAT
The Thai House
Guildford Crescent, Churchill
Way, www.thaihouse.biz
Launched by its Thai/Welsh
owners in 1985, this award-
winning restaurant dishes up
exquisite fare: the prawns with
coconut and kafr lime are a
must-try. Mains from $14.
The Armless Dragon
Wyeverne Road, Cathays,
www.armlessdragon.co.uk
Head here for Welsh food with a
contemporary twist – think cockle
and laverbread cakes with leek
fondue and trufe oil – served in
what feels like someone’s home
(it could only happen in Cardif).
Mains from $20.
Cardiff
Arcades
St David’s
Cardif Bay
Millennium Stadium
Bute Park
Cardif Castle
Ba Orient
Millennium Centre
St David’s Hotel & Spa
The Armless Dragon
Lincoln House
The Thai House
Castle S
t
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KWT Cardiff September.indd 69 8/26/2010 2:39:06 PM
70 Kanoo World Traveller September 2010
Bahrain
Abu Obeidah Avenue
Wroad No. 302
Manama
Tel. 17 576950
Air Canada/Austrian
Airlines/Polish Olympic
Airways/Sudan Airways/
Sas/Swiss Int’l/Tunis
Mahooz
Tel. 17 828770
Air India
Manama
Tel. 17 220788
Airport Ofce
Bahrain
Tel. 17 321325
Al Moayd Tower
Manama
Tel. 17 220220
Awali Branch
Sitrah Avenue
Road No. 4522
Tel. 17 756487
British Airways
Manama
Tel. 17 220701
Cyprus Airways
Manama
Tel. 17 220849
Egypt Air
Manama
Tel. 17 220747
Kanoo Holidays
Mahooz
Tel.17 828802
Kanoo Travel
Refnery
Tel. 17 755012
Lufthansa
Mahooz
Tel. 17 828763
Mahooz
Tel. 17 828754
Qantas/Jetabout
Manama
Tel. 17220743
Thai International
Mahooz
Tel. 17 828771
EGYPT
Alexandria
Booz Allen
1 Youssef El-Shazly Street
Roushdy, Alexandria
Tel. 002 03 5459265
Alexandria
14 May Str, Sayadlia
Building, Symoha
Tel. 002 03 424 1050
Aswan
Abtal El-Tahrir Street
Corniche El-Nil
Tel. 002 097 2306983
Cairo
C/O Halliburton
Overseas Ltd Kilometer
No 10, Land No 30
Ein Sokhna Road
North Kattamia, Cairo
Tel. 002 02 27591690

Dr. Kamal Hussin
Heliopolis, Cairo
Tel. 002 02 26251307
El Areesh
C/O Mfo, Northern Sinai
Tel. 002 068 3502868
Heliopolis
Business Travel Centre
33 Nabil Elwakkad St
Heliopolis, Cairo
Tel. 002 02 4130375/6
Kasr El Nil
15 Kasr El Nil Street
Down Town
Tel. 002 02 25747991
Luxor
Winter Palace Hotel
Tel. 002 095 2378333
Nile Hilton
Down Town, Cairo
Tel. 002 02 25785001
C/O Schlumberger
Zeiny Tower
25 Misr Helwan Road
Maadi
Tel. 002 02 7684700
Ext. 1014
C/O U.N.D.P
4th Floor,
World Trade Center
1191 Cornich El Nil
Tel. 002 02 25804491
1 Wahib Doss Str.
Ofce No 9, Maadi
Tel. 002 02 27513930
FrancE
Bureau de Change Kanoo
Printemps Dept. Store
64 Boulevard Haussmann
75009 Paris
Tel. +33 1 4282 4181
Foreign Exchange
11 Rue Scribe
Paris 75009
Tel. +33 1 5300 9897
Foreign Exchange
11 Cours de I’Intendance
Bordeaux 33000
Tel. +33 5 5600 6336
OMan
Kanoo Travel LLC
PO Box 75
114 Jibroo, Muscat
Tel. +968 24700249
QaTar
Museum Street
Corporate Centre
Al Hithmi, Doha
Tel. 448 3777
Old Al Salatta, Doha
Tel. 441 3441
Ras Lafan Commercial
Complex
Ras Lafan
Tel. 474 8772/4
Salam Tower
West Bay,
Doha
Tel. 483 7826/483 7297
SaUDi araBia
WESTERN PROvINCE
Kanoo Centre
Medina Road,
Jeddah
Tel. 02 661 4950
Kanoo Travel
Medinah
Tel. 02 263 3040
Kanoo Travel
Sharafya
Tel. 02 643 9426
Kanoo Travel
Rabigh
Tel. 02 423 2785
Kanoo Travel
Taif
Tel. 02 736 4211
Aboobacker
Al Siddiq Street, Medina
Tel. 04 823 9120
Air Canada
Jeddah
Tel. 02 263 2996,
Ext. 190
Air India
Jeddah
Tel. 02 668 0303/669 6571
Albishar Commercial
Centre
King Abdulaziz Street
Al Bahar, Yanbu
Tel. 04 322 1087
Al Nawa Commercial
Centre
Al Sinnaiyat, Yanbu
Tel. 04 321 3607
Bab Makkah
Jeddah
Tel. 02 644 9030
Bamaroof Centre
Hail Street, Jeddah
Tel. 02 653 0541
Gulf Air
Jeddah
Tel. 02 668 0303/669
Kenyan Airways
Jeddah
Tel.02 263 2959 Ext. 108
Khamis Abha Main Road
Khamis Mushayat
Tel. 07 222 3624
Philippine Airways
Jeddah
Tel. 02 263 2959
Ext. 100/122
Prince Sultan Street
Gizan
Tel. 07 317 4285
Singapore Airlines
Jeddah
Tel. 02 657 9898
Srilankan Airlines
Jeddah
Tel. 02 263 2959
Umalquara Street
Hayfer
Makkah
Tel. 02 544 7741
United Airlines
Jeddah
Tel. 02 263 3021/2959
Ext. 196/197
EASTERN PROvINCE
Kanoo Building
Corniche Road
Jubail
Tel. 03 362 2340
Kanoo Holidays
Retail Airline Centre,
Khobar
Tel. 03 882
2206/2601/2249
Kanoo Holidays
Wholesale Airline Centre
Khobar
Tel. 03 8821626/1851/
8820161
Kanoo Tower
King Saud Street,
Damman
Tel. 03 833 9793
Airport Ofce
Dammam
Tel. 03 883 2660/2660
Air India
Khobar
Tel. 03 882 2478
Air India
Jubail
Tel. 03 362 3454
Al Quds Street
Qatif
Tel. 03 851 5009
British Airways
Khobar
Tel. 03 882 2000
British Airways
Dammam
Tel. 03 835 5714
British Airways
Jubail
Tel. 03 362 1069
City Centre
Al Mahoob Buidling
Hufuf
Tel. 03 586 3823
Dhahran Street
Damman
Tel. 03 833 7694
Gulf Air
Khobar
Tel. 03 896 8496/
9393/8493
Gulf Air
Dammam
Tel.03 835 4194/4917/
4952
Gulf Air
Qatif
Tel. 03 852 9384/
854 5240
Gulf Air
Rastanura
Tel. 03 667 8041/7972
Gulf Air
Hofuf
Tel. 03 585 3358/
4080/2252
Gulf Air
Jubail
Tel. 03 363 0982/84
Hertz
Khobar
Tel. 03 882 2005/5597
King Khalid Street
Khobar
Tel. 03 864 7471
Municipal Street
Al Khafji
Tel. 03 766 0045
Qantas
Khobar
Tel. 03 882 3711/2467
Srilankan Airlines
Khobar
Tel. 03 882
2789/2675/2792
United Airlines/Air
Canada/Singapore
Airlines/Swissair/
Austrian Airlines
Tel. 03 882 1518/2962/
2602/03 882 4477/4442
Feeling excited about your holiday? Check through our list of the most popular Kanoo Travel
ofces, fnd one near you and head down or call up to turn your getaway dreams into reality...
KWT Kanoo details September.indd 70 8/26/2010 11:53:10 AM
concierge | book your trip
September 2010 Kanoo World Traveller 71
47th Street
Rahima
Tel. 03 667 0388
CENTRAL PROvINCE
Kanoo Tower
King Abdul Aziz Road
Riyadh
Tel. 01 477 2228
Kanoo Travel
Naseem
Tel. 01 232 8519
Airport Road
Hail
Tel. 06 543 0430
Air India
Kanoo Tower, Riyadh
Tel. 01 477 2228

Air India
Buraidah
Tel. 06 324 6514/325 0888
Al Kubaih Street
Buraidah
Tel. 06 325 0888
Batha
Riyadh
Tel. 01 403 0368
Gulf Air
Olaya, Riyadh
Tel. 01 461 0589/462 4902
Gulf Air
Hail
Tel. 06 532 0280
Gulf Air
Buraidah
Tel. 06 324 6514/325 0888
King Faisal Foundation
Al Khairia Complex
Riyadh
Tel. 01 463 4454
Main Street
Al Khamseen
Wadi Ad Dawasir
Tel. 01 784 6500
Philippine Airlines
Kanoo Tower
Riyadh
Tel. 01 477 2228
Ext. 237/238
Qantas
Kanoo Tower
Riyadh
Tel. 01 477 2228
Ext. 288/305
Sharjah Street
Hotat Bani
Tamim, Al Hotah
Tel. 01 555 0304
Silsilah Road
Onaiza, Al Qassim
Tel. 06 362 0080
Singapore Airlines
Kanoo Tower
Tel. 4734102/4734103
Srilankan Airlines
Kanoo Tower
Riyadh
Tel. 01 477 2228
Ext. 292/293
United Airlines/Air Canada
Kanoo Tower, Riyadh
Tel. 01 477 2228
Ext. 289/290
Wazir Street
Al Azizea Building
Riyadh
Tel. 01 411 4780
UaE
Kanoo Holidays Dubai
Tel. 04 334 1444/315 6624
Kanoo Building
Khalid Bin Al Waleed
Street, Bur Dubai
Tel. 04 507 2242
Kanoo Building
Al Orouba Street,
Sharjah
Tel. 06 561 6058
Kanoo Travel –
American Express
Hermitage Building
Al Karama
Tel. 04 334 9219
Kanoo Travel
Corniche, Abu Dhabi
Tel. 02 631 3900/631 8187
Airport Ofce
Dubai
Tel. 04 393 1963
Deira City Centre
Dubai
Tel. 04 294 1481
Dubai Internet City
Building 12
Tel. 04 390 1992
Green
Community
Jebel Ali Road
Dubai
Tel. 04 885 3321
Jebel Ali
LOB 16, Ground Floor
Jebel Ali Free Zone
Tel. 04 881 5050
Karama
Al Fathooi Centre, Dubai
Tel. 04 334 1222
Marine Travel Services
Dubai
Tel. 04 335 1314
Najda Street
Abu Dhabi
Tel. 02 678 0400
UK
Birmingham
American Express
Bank House
8 Cherry Street
Tel. 0121 644 5514/
0121 644 5560
Bournemouth
American Express
95A Old Christchurch
Road
Tel. 07872 600528/
01202 780 752

Brighton
Amex House Implant
American Express
Ground Floor
Amex House
Edward Street
Tel. 01273 525 041/040

Bristol
American Express
74 Queens Road
Tel. 01179 065 107/105
Cardif
American Express
3 Queen Street
Tel. 02920 649 305/
02920 649 301

Coventry
American Express
5 Cathedral Lanes
Shopping Centre
Tel. 02476 225511/
07872 600 528

Croydon
American Express
2-4 High Street
Tel. 0208 256 0808/0805
Edinburgh
American Express
69 George Street
0131 718 2508/
0131 718 2505
Essex
Lakeside Bureau
American Express
Lakeside Shopping Centre
West Thurrock Grays
Tel. 01708 890 654
Glasgow
American Express
66 Gordon Street
Tel. 0141 225 29 05/08

Guildford
American Express
38-40 High Street
Tel. 01483 551 605/607

Leicester
American Express
1 Horsefair Street
Tel. 0116 242 18 05/08
London
American Express
84 Kensington High Street
Tel. 0207 795 6703

London
American Express
78 Brompton Road
Knightsbridge
Tel. 0207 7617 900/908
London
American Express
1 Savoy Court, The Strand
Tel. 0207 240 1521

London
Credit Swiss
First Boston
American Express
Travel Ofce
Cabot Square
Canary Wharf
Tel. 0207 888 4196
London
Haymarket
American Express
30 – 31 Haymarket
Tel. 0207 4849 600/674

London
Holborn Bureau
American Express
156a Southampton Row
Tel. 07872 600528/
0207 837 4416

Manchester
American Express
10-12 St Mary’s Gate
Tel. 0161 833 7301

Milton Keynes
American Express
670 Silbury Boulevard
Tel. 01908 608 877

Nottingham
American Express
2 victoria Street
Tel. 0115 924 7701/05
Plymouth
American Express
139 Armada
Tel. 01752 502 702/707
Shefeld
American Express
20 Charles Street
Tel. 0114 263 9305/08

Southampton
American Express
99 Above Bar
Tel. 02380 716 805/808

York
American Express
6 Stonegate
Tel. 01904 676 505
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KWT Kanoo details September.indd 71 8/26/2010 11:53:12 AM
concierge | matera
72 Kanoo World Traveller September 2010
Ever slept in a cave before? Neither had we, until we discovered this fascinating project, which has seen part of a UNESCO World Heritage
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preserving all traces of the site’s history, from the centuries-old wood used for the furniture to the iron rings in the walls, which working
animals were tethered to. It’s not all dim lighting and mystery, though – venture out to the gardens and you’ll be blasted with panoramic
vistas across the Murgia Park river valley.
www.sassidimatera.com
Suite dreamS
Le Grotte DeLLa Civita, itaLy
KWT Suite dreams September.indd 72 8/30/2010 11:27:43 AM
C
M
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Offer valid from 4th May – 15th September.
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Do you live an InterContinental life?
Bahrain 800 00 880 | Egypt 0800 44 333 22 | Jordan 0800 22 666 | Kuwait 2473 2100 Ext.6233 | Lebanon (01) 426 801 (ask for 866 866 7556)
Oman 800 77 999 | Qatar 0800 971 234 | Saudi Arabia 800 8 971 465 | South Africa 0800 999 136 | UAE 800 4642

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HOT Media Publishing does not accept liability for omissions or errors in Kanoo World Traveller.com +971 4 369 0917 jenni@hotmediapublishing.com Production manager: Haneef Abdul haneef@hotmediapublishing. 12 Ask the expert Your travel questions answered 68 city guide: cArdiff Castle-spotting in the Principality 28 tropic of conversAtion Balmy Barbados. Jan-June 2010 22.620 BPA Consumer Audit Produced by: HOT Media Publishing FZ LLC September 2010 Kanoo World Traveller 5 .CONTENTS Travel biTes 07 AgendA Everything you need to know about travel this month Kanoo World Traveller SEPTEmBER 2010 feaTures 66 city guide: jAkArtA You’ll love it or hate it but never forget it 21 essentiAl selection From the sublime to the (slightly) ridiculous: we show you around the Gulf’s most incredible hotel rooms. 48 Publishing Director: John Thatcher 39 Editor: Ele Cooper ele@hotmediapublishing. shot by Ed Pritchard.com Reproduction in whole or in part without written permission from HOT Media Publishing is strictly prohibited. courtesy of Getty Images. ‘Total guide: USA road trips’ and ‘Easy tiger’ reprinted with the permission of Sunday Times Travel magazine.com +971 4 369 0918 69 managing Director: Victoria Hazell-Thatcher Advertisement Director: Chris Capstick chris@hotmediapublishing. away from the glitzy resorts 14 drive time France in the autumn – it doesn’t get much better 70 detAils Find your nearest Kanoo outlet 37 totAl guide: roAd trip usA Want to drive through America? Here’s the lowdown on where to go (and where to sleep along the way) 16 picture this Daydream with these incredible travel photos 71 competition Win a stay at the Cove Rotana Resort 65 thirty-second concierge Watch turtles hatch in the Seychelles 72 suite dreAms The most luxurious cave you’ll ever sleep in 58 eAsy tiger Searching for the big cats on an Indian safari 28 On the cover: ‘Golden Gate Bridge Above Mist’. All prices mentioned are correct at time of press but may change.com +971 4 375 7617 Art Editor: Jenni Dennis 22 63 Designer: Matthew McBriar matt@hotmediapublishing. ‘Tropic of conversation’.

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while its suites are themed around the countries visited by its namesake. The five-star property has 396 bedrooms decked out in Moroccan style.moevenpick-hotels. www. 60m-high. Moroccan-style gate next to Ibn Battuta Mall – and the hotel it leads onto is finally opening on October 1. The four restaurants also reflect Ibn Battuta’s travels (apparently Chinese was his favourite) and we reckon he’d have been pretty impressed with the rooftop swimming pool. be there Book it Now Ibn baTTuTa GaTe Residents of Dubai will be familiar with the sight of the magnificent.AGENDA Be informed.com September 2010 Kanoo World Traveller 7 . too. be inspired. the famous Arabian adventurer.

coming with its own pool.rotana.le-gavroche.uk. The former is a culinary institution. mi chiamo… I’d like the cheese and tomato pizza please… Vorrei la pizza margherita per favore… I don’t speak Italian very well… Non parlo molto bene italiano… Do you mind if I smoke? ti dà fastidio se fumo? Global Gourmet Celebrity chef Gary Rhodes. www.co. Ragout de Legumes Rotis – Scotch fillet of beef and foie gras. It’s a great place to take friends if you want to impress. who recently opened new restaurant Rhodes Twenty10 at Dubai’s Le Royal Meridien (www.’ www. and also the Supreme of Landaise chicken. www. is set in a beautiful old building and has a relaxed atmosphere. One&Only Le Saint Géran in Mauritius could be the ideal destination for your next holiday: book a five-night stay there before September 30 (to be taken before February 28. port sauce and truffled macaroni cheese. I’d order the Tournedos et Tranche de Foie Gras Poeles. www.com ONE-MINUTE MASTERCLASS: ITALIAN Hello.oneandonlyresorts. my name is… Salve. free food for the youngsters.com Base Qatar Next time you’re staying in the Qatari capital check out the newly opened Oryx Rotana: it’s the closest hotel to Doha airport. meanwhile. leroyalmeridien-dubai. 2011) and you’ll get a complimentary room upgrade. half board. La Chapelle. It’s one of the best in the world. tells us where he’d choose to dine when in his home city of London.com). 50 per cent off an additional children’s room. dining areas and sandpit – perfect for tots who demand nothing but the most exclusive care. Gratin de Macaronis. making it perfect for short stays. 8 Kanoo World Traveller September 2010 who’s a good friend of mine. I love the red mullet soup with gruyère and croutons. opened by the godfathers of the industry – the Roux brothers – and it’s also run by Michel Roux Jr. but the Jazz Club.galvinrestaurants. ‘I’d either head to Le Gavroche or La Chapelle. one free babysitting session and complimentary membership of the KidsOnly club. kids stay free in parents’ room. opulent pool and city-sleek décor are sure to make you want to extend your trip.Suite deal If you’ve got a luxury-loving brood.com .

and you can also request an in-room fit kit complete with workout routines. Garden City 191 bedrooms Soothing neutrals livened up with the odd feature wall of patterned wallpaper Floor 10. londonundercover. Abu Dhabi’s Yas Hotel (www. complete with newspaper wrapping.agenda | news cairo conundrum Villa Belle Époque compare and contrast A boutique hotel in the suburbs or a city-centre newcomer? You decide… Kempinski Nile Hotel brItISH brollIeS location maadi. the in-house fitness specialist has devised bespoke sightseeing jogging routes. www. It’s a healthy take on their award-winning traditional afternoon tea. Guilt-free getaway Love indulgent holidays. also being unveiled this month. we love this fish and chips brolly. olive. with delectable options like dark rye bread with smoked salmon and low-fat crème fraîche. surrounded by lemon. available online at www. guava and palm trees From $265. brownshotel.com) has the solution: tea-tox. on September 1 – plus turn to p26 for an exclusive peek inside the incredible Presidential Suite. 12km from the city centre 13 bedrooms Draws on the building’s colonial past. hate the resultant weight gain? Brown’s Hotel in London (www. com) opens its new ESPA.uk for $75 – they offer worldwide shipping. and blueberries and low-fat lemon cream served in a sugar-free chocolate cup. www.com size décor HigHligHts details leaving the sunny gcc for rainier climes this autumn? then snap up one of these über-cool umbrellas. with a period feel and modern egyptian art the pool.kempinski.com Corniche. a ‘destination floor full of surprises’ which includes exquisite local cuisine From $240.co. As if that wasn’t enough to alleviate your guilt.theyashotel. September 2010 Kanoo World Traveller 9 .villabelleepoque. featuring a contemporary hammam. mango.

Should you really count sheep. which is bad news on business trips. shortly before he died. it offers a 15m indoor pool. Michael Jackson lived in a converted cowshed in rural Ireland with his three children? Nope. dubai. King o’ Pop Book it now Did you know that. maldives. Set your room temperature to 18-21°C and practise some simple breathing exercises to relax yourself. Images: iStockphoto. Rotana. call your nearest Kanoo office – see p70 for contact details. for $639pp six nights’ B&B at shangrila’s Villingili resort & spa.759pp six nights’ B&B at the Kempinski Hotel Bahía estepona. watch a boring movie. us neither. as this will create memory associations which trigger the release of sleep-related hormones. as well as the occasional resident celebrity (REM and Shirley Bassey have also stayed). muscat.com Dream on Getting to sleep in a foreign hotel can be a nightmare before you even close your eyes. www. Brown’s Hotel. which should be based on your sleeping position. and when word did eventually get out – the singer had been spotted in the nearby village of Moate – locals became so protective of him that one farmer was even reported to have threatened to empty slurry over a lurking paparazzo. All packages subject to terms and conditions. for $2. Jackson ended up staying for the rest of the year – and now you can follow in his footsteps and find out exactly why he fell in love with the lush green area. for $999pp three nights’ B&B at shangri-la’s Barr al Jissah resort & spa. who consults for Crowne Plaza hotels. The owners managed to keep Jackson’s presence secret for several months. The Yas Hotel. but it turns out the megastar headed for Grouse Lodge. Have a warm bath or eat a sleep-inducing snack like walnuts. If it was good enough for the King of Pop… www.com to enjoy a host of frequent flier benefits. in County Westmeath. make sure you do it at least three hours before sleeping. anxious and less in control of your reactions.etihadindiaconnect. Le Royal Meridien. register with etihad’s new loyalty programme at www. spain. We quizzed the International modern Hospital’s sleep expert Dr tania tayah.co. if you travel to india a lot.com 10 Kanoo World Traveller September 2010 Kanoo travel has come up trumps this month with four incredible reader offers: three nights’ B&B at the Jumeirah Beach Hotel. Your concentration will also suffer. Kempinski. just wait for sleep to come.ichotelsgroup. Don’t lie there watching the clock. . Avoid caffeine for at least six hours before bedtime. While exercise is very good for giving you a better night’s sleep. ensure you have the right pillow for you. and therefore stress. just after his infamous Bahrain sojourn. on how to escape to the land of Zs. cross-country quad-biking and archery.londonundercover. So what can we do to make sure we get our requisite seven hours in? Going to bed should have certain rituals associated with it.uk. or is that a myth? Doing anything boring will help: read a boring book. don’t lie in bed using your phone as this is associated with work. yoghurt or warm milk. www. Grouse Lodge is a Georgian house-turned-residential recording studio complex and. including exclusive member discounts on hotels and restaurants. One and Only Resorts. Villa Belle Époque. Also. for $949pp To book.grouselodge. Grouse Lodge.How important is it to get a good night’s sleep? It’s vital: if you don’t get seven to nine hours each night you will become irritable.

roodharigen. www.kite-festival. sheep dogs and the caber toss – where strong types toss 80kg wooden poles around. but on the 26th he’ll be showing you how to do it yourself. italy The 67th instalment of this annual component of the Venice Biennale will draw the world’s top critics. Unmissable.agenda | calendar September the most exciting events in the world this month. www. canada Don your tartans for this Celtic festival: situated in the stunning mountainous town of Canmore. monaco Join Europe’s super-rich and check out the latest innovations in the luxury boating world.nl 22-25 monaco YacHt SHow port Hercules. Image: © Bristol Kite Festival 2009. but it’s also carbon neutral.25bn worth of superyachts – including 40 previously unseen models – while you’re at it. will be cooking up a storm for guests.ca 5 roodHarigen breda. Roodharigen doesn’t discriminate.000 strawberrylocked types each year with redhead fashion shows.) www. Cyrus Todiwala. September 2010 Kanoo World Traveller 11 .labiennale. admiring $1. Not only is the event super-glam. and even lectures on the background of red hair. we’re not sure what that means either. Email jbasrestaurants@ jumeirah. shoals of fish.org 5 canmore HigHland gameS alberta. Uae Learning how to cook is so much better when you’ve got a celebrity chef showing you the ropes. Some will be judged in competitions while others – including those exploring new trends in cinema – are there solely for your enjoyment. From September 23-27. picnics. a 3D monkey and appliqué specialist Kelvin Woods’ ‘celebrity tribute edo kites’. which draws an average of 4. www. international FeStiVal oF KiteS and air creationS bristol.canmorehighland games. it features piping and drumming. monacoyachtshow.com 26 magic oF maSala Jumeirah bab al Shams. screening approximately 20 international films. Bizarre but impressive. serpents. don’t worry: all are welcome. of London’s Café Spice Namaste. this is a celebration of all things kite-shaped: this year. but you can rest assured that it will be a spectacularly colourful (not to mention jolly) affair. netherlands Ginger and proud? Make a beeline for the official Coebergh Redhead Day.com to book your place.org. just east of Banff National Park. UK Unsurprisingly.uk 4 1-11 Venice international Film FeStiVal Venice. (But if you’re in a mixed-hair couple. highland dance. photo shoots. No. which will go somewhere towards alleviating longhaul flight guilt… www.

Its tents are decorated in 1920s. So. and is tasked with sampling endless luxury hotels. Persian rugs. Changing children into their pyjamas can also help create a calmer. so animals can wander around the camp – meaning you can safari from your tent! As well as game drives. then relax in a hammock in the evenings as your wife decides which of the day’s photos will make her friends green with envy. You can dive and snorkel in sparkling blue waters by day.com). an MP3 player complete with audio books. even if you’re not flying overnight. crayons and colouring pads. 12 Kanoo World Traveller September 2010 Image: Singita Sabora Tented Camp. the chefs use locally sourced food and the fresh water supply comes from collected rainfall. you can play tennis. sleepier environment. and the dramatic Angel Falls – the world’s highest at 979m. as in-flight meals rarely turn up when you need them. Sabora is set in a private 340. which run between July and October and January and February. Rachel hamilTon is a full-time writer and the mother of two young children whom she travels frequently with. hot air ballooning and tribal village visits. Venezuela has an excellent network of eco lodges from which to admire these stunning natural wonders. Ask the expert Q: Do you have any tips for handling toddlers during a long-haul flight? A: The key to easing in-flight boredom is variety. Who knows. I’m not the roughing-it type. including Caribbean coastline. Tim Woods Got a question for our panel? Email editorial@hotmediapublishing. colonial style. in-the-know eco resorts and flying with kids? no problem.AgendA | trAvel q&A Q: I would love to do a safari in Africa for my 50th birthday but.singita. Also pack headphones that fit comfortably on your child’s head. Amazonian rainforest. Tim Woods. pack your child’s favourite cuddly toy and bedtime story. an Etch A Sketch. The Coral Lagoon Lodge. It’s also worth including a few healthy snacks (raisins. the easiest toddler to handle on a long flight is a sleeping toddler. Jessica Hudson Posh safari camping. pictured). Q: My love of eco resorts is rivalled only by my wife’s passion for hotels that impress her friends. individually wrapped gifts to whip out when your toddler starts fidgeting – consider sticker books. Really. and while there you can experience bush picnics.. Singita’s Sabora Tented Camp (www.olseki. Each tent has panoramic views over the Masai Mara Game Reserve.com. take a dip in the pool and enjoy drives in vintage cars. and other small toys – avoiding those with tiny pieces or irritating sound effects. the go-to man for all things green. you might even be able to catch the end credits of your favourite movie! Rachel Hamilton The panel Jessica hudson cofounded The Chic Collection’s travel advisory. is another personal favourite of mine for camping in luxury. on the plains of the Tanzanian Serengeti. pretzels. Take a number of small. If you don’t have faith in your airline’s entertainment system. bread sticks).. is located right on the coast – and only accessible by sea. four-poster beds and outdoor showers. near Ocumare de la Costa (around 100km west of Caracas). . night game drives. making it a wonderfully secluded place to unwind – and has solid eco credentials: it’s partly powered by solar energy. fine linen and en-suite bathrooms are the order of the day at Ol Seki Mara Camp in Kenya (www. Ol Seki provides a traditional safari experience without forcing you to sacrifice on creature comforts. say our panellists.000-acre game reserve bordering the Serengeti National Park and sits in the path of the great wildebeest migration. with antique mahogany travel chests. Are there any options that will satisfy both tastes? A: Forget sleeping bags: huge beds. the northern peaks of the Andes. It’s unfenced. Where will tick both boxes? A: I would suggest Venezuela: it’s blessed with diverse landscapes. though. invest in a portable DVD player – but don’t forget plenty of high-capacity batteries.com. while my family loves camping. is an international project leader for the British Trust for Conservation Volunteers. The best times to visit are the dry seasons. With six beautiful tents and two family suites.

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go Drive time: THE GERS Take advanTaGe oF The quieTeST RoadS in FRance and PuSh youR enGine To The Max Rolling hills and woodland kissed by the fiery hues of autumn make The Gers perfect for those seeking a days-gone-by trip through rural France.AgendA | RoAd tRip ready. this is farmer’s country. Located in the Midi-Pyrénées. with ducks and geese fussing around dusty yards before meeting their fate as the tasty pâtés and foie gras the southwesterly region is famous for. Image: Photolibrary 14 Kanoo World Traveller September 2010 Kanoo World Traveller xxxx 2010 . just begging you to test the power of your engine. straight path like this one. Spend your days cruising near-deserted roads – this is the least densely populated départment in France – and around every corner. or a long. sTeady. glassy lakes flanked by sandy beaches. a breathtaking surprise awaits: magnificent châteaux.

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caves and ancient paintings. its Aboriginal moniker. it’s one of Australia’s most famous landmarks – but its official name may come as a surprise if you know it as Ayers Rock. has been officially known as Uluru. Explore its periphery and you’ll find springs. which rises like a flame-licked phoenix from the flat land surrounding it. Image: Photolibrary uluru . since 2002. all of which add to the deep sense of mystery at what is one of the oldest rocks on Earth.Picture this central australia You’ll probably recognise this – after all. The sandstone formation.

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Image: Photolibrary . Its millions of golden-bodied inhabitants are stingless and spend their days floating through the water in ghoulish horizontal swathes. until violent tremors shook them above the surface of the Pacific Ocean several millennia ago. micronesia Palau may be an insanely peaceful spot now but the broccoli-like islands haven’t always been so still: they originally existed as coral formations. on Eil Malk island. A particularly spectacular feature of modern-day Palau is to be found at Jellyfish Lake.Picture this rock islands palau. Join them for a once-in-a-lifetime snorkelling experience.

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offers spectacular views of the Dubai skyline.themonarchdubai.EssEntial sElEction | amazing stays essenTial selecTion From rotating four-posters to stingrays floating past your bath. The damage: From $11.com September 2010 Kanoo World Traveller 21 August . www. these beautiful spaces will make your next weekend away infinitely more special. Words by Ele Cooper.430 per night. incidentally. The Monarch Dubai: Floors 32 & 33 The USP: The Monarch Suite has its own 10-seater cinema as well as a swimming pool which extends from an indoor stretch out to the private terrace which.

The damage: From $1.com most exclusive location arMani hoTel Dubai: room 812 The USP: The only hotel in the world’s tallest building had to offer something more than simple luxury – so they got Giorgio Armani to personally design it. www. a huge aquarium housing eels. Zighy Bay.dubai. 22 22 Kanoo World Traveller August 2010 Kanoo World Traveller September 2010 .atlantisthepalm.360 per night.sixsenses. Burj Al Arab. stingrays and sharks – exceptionally relaxing (and very cool).000 per night. The Armani Suite’s minimalist look perfectly complements the magnificent Dubai Fountain. Atlantis The Palm. The damage: From $15.com Clockwise from left: Armani Suite.EssEntial sElEction | amazing stays most expensive six senses hiDeaway Zighy bay: PrivaTe reserve The USP: Comprising three villas. private quarters for your security staff and a live-in chef. the complex has a 14m infinity pool overlooking the Gulf of Oman as well as an exquisite copper bathtub.com aTlanTis The PalM: room 2464 The USP: The Poseidon Suite’s floor-to-ceiling window walls look straight onto the Ambassador Lagoon.000 per night. www. which it overlooks.armanihotels. www. The damage: From $8.

complimentary access to Wild Wadi and Assawan Spa.jumeirah. www. cinema and elevator.400 per night.com September 2010 Kanoo World Traveller 23 August . The damage: From $12.EssEntial sElEction | amazing stays burj al arab: room 2501 The USP: Book the Royal Suite in Dubai’s most famous landmark and you’ll have a rotating four-poster bed as well as a marble-and-gold staircase. private library.

ritzcarlton. The damage: From $3. www.com 24 Kanoo World Traveller August 2010 September 2010 .EssEntial sElEction | amazing stays riTZ-carlTon bahrain: villa 20 The USP: Surrounded by grass and with direct beach access.130 per night. this three-bedroom Manama hideaway has its own shaded infinity pool overlooking the azure waters of the Gulf of Bahrain and a private butler attending to your every need.

The damage: From $8.EssEntial sElEction | amazing stays al Maha: PresidenTial suiTe The USP: Its total privacy – the Presidential Suite is over half a kilometre from the rest of the already-exclusive resort – is likely to have something to do with the fact that it was the favoured retreat of the late Sheikh Maktoum bin Rashid Al Maktoum.205 per night.emirateshotelsresorts. www.com September 2010 Kanoo World Traveller 25 August . The spectacular villa sits atop a sand dune overlooking a pristine wildlife reserve in the heart of the Arabian Desert.

theyashotel.com 26 Kanoo World Traveller August 2010 September 2010 . as the windows look right onto Yas Marina Circuit.531 sq m and with a whopping 28 bedrooms.EssEntial sElEction | amazing stays The yas hoTel: Yas PresidenTial suiTe The USP: At 2. The damage: From $5.450 per night. www. this is the Gulf’s largest and newest suite (it opens this month) – book it and you’ll be able to watch top-level motor-racing from the privacy of your own room.

www.com al Faisaliah: room 716 The USP: Al Faisaliah’s Royal Suite has an opulent sunken Jacuzzi. safe in the knowledge that you’re being watched over by a life-sized model of a horse? The damage: From $9.000 per night. September 2010 Kanoo World Traveller 27 August .com Clockwise from left: Yas Hotel. Kempinski Mall of the Emirates.000 per night. Al Faisaliah. steam showers. The damage: From $6. dramatic views over Riyadh and a dedicated butler’s pantry – perfect for midnight feasts. W Doha. The damage: From $6. www. www.400 per night.EssEntial sElEction | amazing stays most eccentric w Doha: room 1501 The USP: Where else could you watch a movie on an Aquavision TV from a hexagonal bathtub before going to bed.kempinski.alfaisaliahhotel.whoteldoha.com most novel KeMPinsKi Mall oF The eMiraTes: room 216 The USP: The Grand Ski Chalet may have been around for a few years but it’s still impossible not to get a certain childish thrill at staying in a desert-based hotel room which offers ski slope views.

Nick Redman gets chatting. Tropic of conversation 28 Kanoo World Traveller September 2010 .Bendy palms. but the real talking points are the people. white sand. clear water… Barbados is a textbook Caribbean paradise.

Budge O’Hara came to manage the place in the ’50s. drowsier. the lunch grows longer. and white-bearded owner John Chandler shows you to one of a dozen garden tables. Is she about to perform some El Stupendo whip-it-away magic act? It wouldn’t surprise me. like a lost Noel Coward play. ‘Wallis Simpson?’ ‘Definitely more Marge Simpson. Tablecloths are resplendent with Swisscheese-plant motifs. John Chandler has the most intoxicating lilt to his voice. Based on classic recipes from across the West Indies.’ I say quietly. but more than anything for the characters. Helen…’ Home for us is Coral Reef Club. The cooking is all done by Rain – and what cooking. a pianoplink comes from within. a love story. putting me in mind of Maria Callas. friendly. is on the baby grand. with her two sons and their wives. pink villages. stately-home-familiar to the British. two to your left. eightysomething. pointing with my eyes. He used to run a hotel where Princess Margaret lodged (‘She stayed up too late’). indulging in the classic Barbados holiday pursuit: people-watching. If you’re reading this. in the green heart of St Thomas parish: a blur of cottages on the drive from the coast. Rain. Cynthia – their honeymoon was the rocky cargo-ship passage over. not weekly. This clutch of coral-stone cottages and suites is another Caribbean classic. Sit around for a while and tune in – it’s like a soap opera but. It’s set on the same stretch of coast as the Sandy Lane hotel. It’s a slab of sepia-tinted Caribbean. And he’s sorry he lost Helen Mirren’s number when she visited: ‘I wanted to invite her to stay. We’re almost too heavy to stand by the time John offers us a whizz around his antiques. sure. There are pink parasols in the drinks that John’s wife. Shutters are open to the Barbados January sun. an old Bajan recipe. Once at Fisher Pond he scolded Prince Harry for smoking. like an elegant British forerunner to Miss Ellie in Dallas. somewhere between Bob Marley and Pam Ayres. a bumpy track. ‘The older lady. Budge passed away in the ’90s. is dispensing. the kind you daydream about at your desk: mental blotting paper. A macaw screeches. covered in psychedelic bougainvillea. She launches into ‘La Vie en Rose’. I could listen to the Bajan accent all day. ‘camp’ is too tame a term for this place. a caramelly flan made with condensed milk. materialises among the cane fields. We fill our bellies.xxxxxx | xxxxxxxxx Y ou happen abruptly upon Fisher Pond. and Fisher Pond Great House blooms into Barbados past. tragically. playing beside a superb-looking homecooked buffet. a weathered plantation property.) Jewel-coloured glasses are filled. and I glance at my partner. leaving room (just) for the guava bread pudding. Then the Great House. yet exotic against branches of red African tulips. For the sun and the sands and the sheer unadulterated indolence. just that I read somewhere about the opera singer holidaying on the island with her pet marmoset. (Not so much the vocal impression.’ Both of us are loving Barbados. including a pair of 18th-century hurricane lantern shades owned by Anthony Eden. Britain’s former prime minister. John’s family arrived from Scotland to grow tobacco in 1638. Betty. Chunky novels September 2010 Kanoo World Traveller 29 . still presides. What have we let ourselves in for? Graham Norton’s 50th? Carry on up the Caribbean? We’re light years from the demure Barbados of brochure clichés. They’d look lovely in our apartment but are too big to smuggle out subtly. bringing his wife. busy with chattering guests. but silver-haired Cynthia. yet it’s the antithesis of that gigantic glitz-fest – family-run. from Martinique. A woman gets a tablecloth caught to her as she rises. there’s curried green banana from St Lucia.

among a shock of palms. and so pushy. pairs of chairs are scraped back simultaneously as Mr and Mrs leave for a day of nothingmuchness around their plunge pool. Gingerbread homes flit by. picking her way along the beach with the head-nodding concentration of a stork. and theatrical mansions lurk like stars in ’shades behind curly gates. we motor north along the ‘platinum’ west coast. At breakfast.’ An American has given up trying to signal discreetly to a stick-like septuagenarian. Joan. past coves of sand so fine you could sieve it onto a donut. In Barbados. and theatrical mansions lurk like stars in ’shades behind curly gates’ 30 Kanoo World Traveller September 2010 . guarded by a ‘Gingerbread homes flit by. so she’ll be an even bigger hit with the finches. We turn inland at Speightstown and the sea now glints in the rear-view mirror. towards the Atlantic Coast. In the verdant wilds of St Philip Parish. barely pecks at her muffin. It’s a proper Scarlett O’Hara set. They’ll be cadging my Marlboros next. owners gazing mindlessly out to sea. there’s a sign to Sunbury Plantation House. Next day.rest unopened on thighs. JOAN. Birds staccato-hop for crumbs – so many. I’m not surprised to observe when her breakfast arrives. it’s as if Alfred Hitchcock is still directing from on high. Now all heads swivel at a sudden commotion: ‘Joan. disappearing as horizons of sugar cane hog the frame. it somehow doesn’t feel as if we’ve flown across the Atlantic – it’s more as if we’ve taken an exotic exit off an English motorway and our cottage is somewhere beyond the flinty manor house that’s materialising ahead. Joan.

This page. Opposite from left: Luxury Plantation Suite at Coral Reef Club. Stoking the barbecue. under a torch-beam moon. my partner is now officially addicted to people-watching. lifeless-eyed dolls in the children’s room. September 2010 Kanoo World Traveller 31 . There are well-kept men who clearly work out between the boardroom sessions back home. stuffed with spooky. Out we went. There’s the blonde X-ray in Lycra pants.’ I feel qualified to answer. and if it weren’t for the occasional ‘Please do not sit…’ signs you’d think the place was still lived in. studying the white drive in a monochrome 1905 picture. in a Previous page: Bottom Bay. ‘No. One evening. we heard that Naomi Campbell and David Walliams had recently been spotted in fashionable restaurant Daphne’s. clockwise from top left (all Coral Reef Club): Warleigh terrace. Girls twirled and we guys let what was left of our hair down. only a crêpe-like midriff leatheriness betraying their middle age. But again. Built by an Irish/ English planter in 1660. And there was some fine resort dancing last night. a wince-inducing ladies’ manicure set and old photos on the walls. endlessly heading off on manic runs. Fashionable? Yes. Seared peppercrusted tuna. it’s the people that make the moment: ‘Is that snow?’ asks a lady out loud.xxxxxx | xxxxxxxxx bearded fig tree. Luxury Cottage at same hotel. as if she’s always left the iron on. Breakfast by the beach. it’s a splendid window on bygone Barbados. Between reading tabloid interviews with Tina Turner and Paul Daniels at Coral Reef Club. to band covers of Joni Mitchell and Frank Sinatra.

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almost wistfully. He was quite a character. September 2010 Kanoo World Traveller 33 . But inland. com) reopened this year after an extensive refurb. but I know that it does. ominous before a shower an hour ago. Sightseeing Sunbury Plantation House (www. forcing the staff to sell a double espresso for the price of a single. Celebrities? No – just a berk in a short-sleeved Burberry shirt. the singer. the island fell away dramatically to the east. Daphne’s – the place to see and be seen. Small Luxury Hotels of the World. St Philip. com) has mains for around $40. ‘He filmed a video here in the ’80s. Or try Sea-U Guest House (www. black-belly sheep grazing the waysides. Clockwise from top left: Room at the refurbed Atlantis.com). small group led by the chuckly Duane. Images: Photolibrary. even if his microphone was turned up too loud. A huge scallop shell in the ceiling. Barbados-beyond beckoned. over a big cold drink. Animal Flower Cave. Elegant Hotels. with canyons of puffy white clouds. near Bathsheba. coral-limestone hollow. was now bright blue. As we chugged over Cherry Tree Hill.net) has a Caribbean buffet Sunday lunch (served from 1pm) for $50pp. and I know. where anemones pulsed in rock pools. iStockphoto. The sea was spearmint-clear. an informal. for some people-watching from a soft sofa. on the northern tip. each headland nudging further out. causing all in the vehicle to jump each time he cleared his throat to point out an unusual sight. rooms from $255 B&B. cosy little east-coast retreat.daphnesbarbados. I felt it myself as the day closed and Duane dropped me off at the prettily lit Coral Reef Club. Plumeria thrives in Barbados’ tropical climate. The longing for what was never home: I’m not sure why it exists. embedded. which brought us neatly on to Billy Ocean. then exposed by time. Through a gaping aperture crashed the mad Atlantic. We took off with a The brief Where to stay Coral Reef Club (www. St Lucy. ‘it’s just a little more hot water. Animal Flower Cave.com) has rooms from $420 B&B. chandelierweddingsbarbados. On the Atlantic coast at Tent Bay. The Atlantis (www. Essential Details.’ Duane explained. coralreefbarbados. 9am-5pm. Daphne’s (www. fading into mists.com. Where to eat Fisher Pond Great House (www. drip-drip. was a shivery moment: a staired descent to a mysterious.30am-5pm. ‘You know. barbadosgreathouse. looked just like a hand with gnawed nails. I thought. St James beach.atlantishotelbarbados.’ he hissed. Barbados unravelled beautifully – untouristy.seaubarbados. from $129 B&B).xxxxxx | xxxxxxxxx darkwood way. down to the Atlantic Coast at Bathsheba. 9.’ The discreet charm of the bourgeoisie… Next morning. untouched – passing down avenues of palms and tunnels of overhanging mahogany. the sky.

40” LCD TV and DVD player) and an ultra-mod kitchen which allows you to cater for yourself if the urge takes you. which include a 25m lap pool. muted tones complemented by warm lighting and incredible views of the Burj Khalifa and Palm Jumeirah. The décor is perfect.com Stay at the Fraser Suites before the end of September and get a one-bedroom suite plus breakfast for two for just $155++ 34 Kanoo World Traveller September 2010 . welcome to the fraser suites. http://dubai.KWT promoTion ULTrA-STyLiSh SUiTeS in The heArT oF DUBAi privacy. tennis and squash courts. gym and Awazen Medical Spa. comfort. with classy. state-of-the-art entertainment (including iPod docking station. each ‘room’ is actually a serviced apartment. Bliss. But it might be worth leaving your suite if only to sample the in-house amenities. They’re so well-equipped you don’t even need to venture into the corridor if you don’t want to – there’s in-suite dining. luxury.frasershospitality. Privacy-seekers will love the Fraser Suites: recently opened.

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total guide | uSa Road tRip

TOTAL GUIDE

uSa Road tRipS
Hot tarmac, cool breeze, and 50 states to see: if you want to tour america, better get motoring…
P38 THE WHEEL THING Drive yourself to distraction on America’s most scenic journeys. From Fifth Avenue to Route 66, there’s a road for every kind of rider. P44 INTO THE WILD The crowds in Yellowstone National Park? Sure, they can be a bit grizzly – but arrive in an RV and you’ll bear-ly see another tourist. P48 BEDS AND BURGERS Find your perfect pit stop for an all-American highway adventure: roadside diners, time-warped motels and kitsch crash pads. P52 LOST IN TRANSMISSION On a driving tour of La-La Land, truth and hype collide. See Bel Air, Hollywood, Beverly Hills – and enough silicone to fill the valley. P56 KEEP ROLLING Seen the movie? Now live the dream… Retrace the routes in these cult classics and you’re guaranteed a good time.

Your total guide to USA road trips, September 2010 Kanoo World Traveller 37 in association with

and spend a night in music-centric Austin. then take Highway 90 through long stretches of Big Sky country to Big Bend. Only an hour or so out of New Orleans and you’re in Louisiana back country. and all the great artists – Howlin’ Wolf. The blues was born along its back roads. for views of the Rio Grande. John Lee Hooker – came from the Delta.nps. head to the Mississippi Delta. which is still inhabited by Frenchspeaking Cajuns (stop here for zydeco music and juicy crawfish). which winds along an FOur dAys: BLUES HIGHWAy To discover America’s musical taproot. in the parks (www. Then head west to Texas. before crossing the bridge into the Moby Dick world of Cape Cod. One dAy: cAPE cOD Start in Plymouth. where you might catch tomorrow’s rock stars playing for tips. Detour to Hyannis (summer home of the Kennedys) to visit the JFK Museum and pay homage at the statue of the Wampanoag Indian chieftain who sold Cape Cod for $30 and two pairs of trousers. By Stanley Stewart. Buckle up and hit the road. which climbs spectacular desert buttes. and one of the West’s best-kept secrets. In the small towns there’s a real old-west feel. old Indian trail. where the Pilgrim Fathers first stepped ashore in 1620.the wheel thing A week: TOWARDS THE RIO GRANDE This road trip takes you across Texas to Big Bend National Park. Forego the big mid-Cape Highway for the coastal road 6A. rafting. Sign up for one of the swamp tours in Henderson to go head to head with ’gators. Muddy Waters. bypass Houston.gov/bibe) there’s hiking. and the Alamo. Finish in Provincetown. checking out the Pilgrim Fathers’ first settlement. jink south to San Antonio From Route 66 to the Rio grande. Head west again into the Hill Country. an area smaller than 38 Kanoo World Traveller September 2010 . the greatest american drives start here. and glider rides. Don’t miss Highway 70.

hertz. on a stretch once known as Millionaire’s Row. it can be hard catching a cab on Fifth Avenue. For some Appalachian culture. Wales.com? It lists gas stations selling the cheapest petrol from state to state. from Virginia to Tennessee’s Great Smokies. com). Blue Ridge Highway is stunning in autumn. From 105th St to 82nd St. Hop in a cab at its northern end on the Harlem River and head south. Altogether quieter scene in Provincetown. a few visitor centres and uninterrupted views of forest-clad mountains. Or consider a driveaway car – an agency enlists you to deliver a client’s vehicle to a specific destination and you just pay the gas (see www. in association with TwO dAys: BLUE RIDGE PARKWAy Known as America’s Favourite Drive. it’s Museum Mile. the Empire State and the Flatiron building. just lay-bys. Don’t miss Morgan Freeman’s Ground Zero. And why not save money by checking www. where samba rules. past Central Park.com) are dotted throughout the country.autodriveaway.total guide | uSa Road tRip Clockwise from far left: Believe it or not. depending On TrAFFic: fIfTH AvENUE Running down the centre of Manhattan. a great blues lounge there. The open road in Big Bend National Park. the Blue Ridge Parkway sweeps along the crest of the Appalachians.folkheritage. where Muddy Waters caught the train to Chicago. with the Rockefeller Centre. take the side roads into local towns – Asheville is home to the annual Mountain Dance and Folk Festival (www. Highway 61 is the key route but detour down Highways 49 and 1: you’ll see towns like Indianola. and to hear bluegrass music.org). With a sudden shift of gear. Fifth Avenue revels in its reputation as the most expensive street in the world. you’re cruising in the know It’s easy to rent a car in America – specialists such as Hertz (www. next up is Midtown. Cape Cod. Dangerously upmarket stores begin to loom – Bergdorf Goodman. But a cruise along it is a journey through the many faces of New York. The Parkway is that rare thing . Your total guide to USA September 2010 Kanoo World Traveller 39 road trips. where BB King used to play on street corners (he returns every year for a homecoming concert). The route ends in Memphis. Clarksdale. No billboards. One hOur in A TAxi. between 115th St and 111th St. no gas stations. Tiffany & Co – but your final destination is Second Ave Deli (156 Second Ave). one of New York’s greatest foodie joints. which hosts the Mississippi Delta Blues and Heritage Festival every September.gasbuddy. and Greenville. no motels. in America – a pristine road. home to the man who took the blues to the world. passing venues where the great jazzmen discovered be-bop. is Spanish Harlem. Off to the left. is Blues Central.

as you crest a desert ridge. Watch the sun set on a horizon flat as a ruled line. And then. a surreal apparition. Have a late lunch on Venice Beach in LA and then head out. The white lines begin to hypnotise. there are some fine mountains to cross during the afternoon. Welcome to Vegas.Five hOurs: LA TO LAS vEGAS The worst way to land in this city is off a transcontinental flight. a surreal apparition’ 40 Kanoo World Traveller September 2010 . Vegas can be just too bizarre for people suffering from jet lag. as well as vast stretches of desert. the Pyramids and the Roman palaces. Vegas appears. the landscape is a dark nothing beneath a vault of stars. floating in the desert like an alien space station. suddenly. the Venetian gondolas. a spectacular blaze of light. then drive on. through a chiaroscuro world of headlights and undiluted night. arrive by road – at night. The last stage of the drive is the cruise up The Strip past the Eiffel Tower. Instead. ‘As you crest a ridge. Vegas appears.

where 10 cars have been ‘planted’ hood first in the ground. The kitsch and the weird loom large on Route 66. Check out www. It starts in Chicago. where 600km of the old blacktop runs through timeless towns like Kingman. The best stretch is in Arizona. But you can still follow it. from the Cadillac Ranch near Amarillo. and runs across the Texas Panhandle before heading west through New Mexico. drops down into Illinois and Missouri. and along the way find the two-lane dream on which America was born. to the quirky Baghdad Café. Oatman and Winslow with their ageing motels and classic diners. soda-fountain girls followed it to Hollywood and Chuck Berry made it famous.com. com and www. and the old highway has been replaced and diverted in many places.total guide | uSa Road tRip TwO weeks: ROUTE 66 Route 66 ain’t what it used to be.national66. ‘The kitsch and the weird loom large on Route 66’ xxxxx 2010 KANOO WORLD TRAvELLER 41 September 2010 Kanoo World Traveller . Arizona and California to LA. The Okies took to the road to escape dust-bowl depression.historic66. Route 66 has always been an integral part of the country’s great western migration. where the 1988 film of the same name was shot. The Interstates have robbed it of its traffic and its importance.

An hour later. spend the night in Santa Cruz. eco-conscious sort of place. 145km of spectacular coastline. Highway 84 is a great end to a great drive – but once you’re in town. Carmel is now as famous for electing Clint Eastwood as mayor as it is for its boutiques. Next it’s all windows open for a leisurely cruise through Monterey Peninsula. Another hour and you’ll be back on the coast at Pismo.ca. When the forests push down to the coast. skaters. immortalised by Orson Welles as Citizen Kane. or grey whales during the winter. which whisks you into San Francisco. galleries and twee teashops. get out of the car and take a hike in Pfeiffer Big Sur State Park (www. a wonderful mix of surfers. You’re now entering Big Sur. you’re in Steinbeck’s California: vegetable and fruit territory. From the viewpoints. so keep quiet about the road trip and the gas-guzzling convertible. Unravelling along the ocean in a series of West Coast clichés – surfers’ beaches. The next day. ranch country. ditch the car: San Fran is a lefty. After a few days taking in the insanity of LA. pop in the Beach Boys and motor out past beach houses.gov). where surfers ride big waves and Baywatch extras play volleyball on an endless beach. stop to see Hearst Castle. For contrast. palm trees and the big Pacific surf: Santa Barbara is just a couple of sunny hours away. parks. Just past San Simeon. where rivers pool in sunstruck swimming holes. 42 Kanoo World Traveller September 2010 . Cross the Santa Cruz Mountains to Interstate 280. cross the Santa Ynez Mountains into big-sky. yuppies and ageing hippies. deep among the redwoods. spot blue and humpback whales in the summer.A week: PAcIfIc cOAST HIGHWAy This iconic road trip links the cheesy glamour of LA with the funky bohemia of San Francisco. the former home of William Randolph Hearst. orange groves and giant redwoods – this highway makes California Dreamin’ a reality.

it takes in some of the region’s most fascinating landmarks: the haunting Mesa Verde plateau. ‘Long. En route. Beyond the Valley. then head south on Highway 89 and east on 160 to Monument Valley where the West was born (thanks to John Ford westerns). Colorado and New Mexico meet – one of America’s most fascinating junctions. straight roads make this archetypal drive country’ September 2010 Kanoo World Traveller 43 . a looping clockwise itinerary dips into Colorado. Start at the Grand Canyon. This is where the stagecoach ran into trouble in Stagecoach. turning into Utah before returning to Arizona and the Grand Canyon. Utah. The stark sandstone buttes and strange pinnacles of rock rising from a bleak red desert are as familiar to movie-goers as the Hollywood sign. the ideal place to ‘carry it all on your back’ with a motorhome – and to park up at night under a wilderness of stars.total guide | uSa Road tRip FOur dAys: THE fOUR cORNERS Stunning desert and canyon landscapes combined with a rich Navajo culture make the Four Corners – where Arizona. sacred to the Navajo. north side. and the Canyon de Chelly. This is RV land. with the ruins of ancient Indian settlements. This is archetypal drive country: long straight roads sweeping through jaw-dropping scenery. where Wyatt Earp drove his cattle on the way to his gunfight at the OK Corral and where that irritating bird escapes his deserved demise in Roadrunner cartoons.

then drove on through the thickening woods to the entry gates. As the overwhelming majority bring a car along for the ride. while roadside animal encounters.’ leered the elderly shop owner. but then I wanted to park my RV and get out there. in 1972 a young backpacker left food and unwashed dishes lying around his camp site. and fatally attracted a hungry beast. poachers have trapped grizzlies in grotesque steel foot-clamps and approached them. with the world’s oldest national park at its heart – has witnessed only nine fatal bear attacks in the past 100 years. you see. he needed to get within five metres of a bear. I was pretty safe. to get the perfect shot. That’s the real joy of a road trip. Commuter rush hours are established by the timetables for likely geyser eruptions. And if I’m honest. I drove into Yellowstone’s timber and meadowland interior with a light heart. But I was determined this road trip through grizzly country was not going to be a carwindow adventure. watching companions never forgot. In 1907. And. a tourist to the park chased two bear cubs up a tree and proceeded to stand poking them with his umbrella until mummy bear arrived on his blind side and taught him a lesson his terrified. Thus statistically emboldened.into the wild I t’s cheaper than reconstructive surgery. produce chaotic temporary 44 Kanoo World Traveller September 2010 . and it thus attracts three million visitors a year. the best road trips involve getting out of the car. as its unique flora and fauna inspired the very idea of preserving wild places as national parks. of which there are many. there’s a considerable risk of the landscape being loved to death. The greatest peril ahead seemed certain to be a Chevy van veering unpredictably into my path in pursuit of the perfect view of a family of elk. One amateur wildlife photographer decided that. A blood-spattered face stared dolefully out from the side of the canister – ‘Designed by a genuine bear-attack survivor! Effective at 10m!’ I thought of my mother at my graveside and opened my wallet. Greater Yellowstone – a towering patch of mountains. skinning knife poised. as the massed ranks hurry for the best vista. after all: opening the door to a new destination every time you turn off the engine. only for spirits to plummet with the realisation that the most likely explanation for the park’s relative safety is that bears don’t like traffic. I wanted to drive. On two other poetically just occasions. and the majority of those lost souls had made quite considerable strides towards deserving their fates. Brian Schofield gets close – possibly too close – to nature in Yellowstone National park. only to discover that there is something more deadly than a wounded tiger. His parents sued the park for not making it crystal clear that bear country might possibly be a dangerous place in which to slob out. most famously. Yellowstone. holds a special place in both American and worldwide hearts. sure. a distance an adult grizzly can travel in less than half a second. placing $30-worth of highly pressurised cayenne pepper on the counter with the confidence of a man whose sales pitch hadn’t failed him in years. forests and sulphurous volcanic activity in the northwestern hinterland of the USA. A can of bear spray on the way into Yellowstone Park – it might be the best $30 you’ll ever spend… or it might be the last.

September 2010with World Traveller 45 in association Kanoo . moved on over the river and followed his nose west’ Your total guide to USA road trips.total guide | uSa Road tRip ‘The bear silently hung a left.

Geyser quietly simmering. Grizzly bear. ‘Yip. 90km away.com) has RVs for hire from $1. I watched for half an hour as he patrolled the valley floor. methodically walk their prey to death. For park information. beavers. though. meat-free hiker making a racket and scaring away the real food. Hot springs. Jet black. a wide treeless basin away from any human presence. Previous page: You won’t be the only one wandering around Yellowstone National Park. clockwise from top left: Bison drink at river edge.cruiseamerica. moved on over the river and followed his nose west. you should be OK. The scene was perfected with my own personal herd of bison. that’s a 900-kilo wild animal you’re standing a metre away from/trying to pet/placing your child on top of. is that they distract from the unmagnified world around you. and our gazes met. awash with… well. and when you’ll be sharing the road with the serious nature lovers. I had set my heart on seeing the Pelican Creek Valley. otters and.com) for accommodation within the park including campsites (from $15 per night). Got spray? Good. It’s easy to see why so many visitors to Yellowstone cannot compute that bison might be dangerous – they have the physiques of comic-book superheroes. see www. then he disappeared into the forest.’ After a wide diversion. hand wobbling over the bear spray like a novice gunfighter. The first is to avoid the perilously expensive park hotels and plump for the campsites. with the additional thrill of watching a rogue male bison and the caravan’s leader brutally clashing horns in the far distance. though.’ Thankfully. wolves. 46 Kanoo World Traveller September 2010 . A surprised bear is a moody one. the river was reached and lunch was served. I tracked a pair of wolves who were ominously. spinning blizzard that settled first on the bisons’ backs. with thick forest on three sides and jagged mountains on the fourth — so I did what any keen hiker must do and consulted the ranger station. and it’s pretty active. backpack up and do some hiking. Three strategies. where from your RV or tent you can enjoy half-whispered conversations with equally peace-seeking neighbours.car parks of zoom-lens-wielding naturalists. Lower Yellowstone Falls. so I set off over the low ridge into Pelican Creek valderi-ing and val-dera-ing for all I was worth. At that point it started to snow. into a perfectly pressed sheet lying across the valley floor. aimlessly winding its way through the tan grass of the perfect widescreen valley floor. One twilight. tottering feet. com) has four lodges in and around Jackson Hole. the brief Getting there The closest airport is Jackson Hole. Opposite. this maelstrom is easily escaped. and wander down to rivers and lakesides for quiet communion with the fly-fishermen. Even half a kilometre from the road. finally. For an unforgettable instant. Please reconsider. And make a lot of noise!’ Hiking in Yellowstone is not a peaceful activity.travelyellowstone. Second. crowding for the perfect image of a bison scratching its bottom on a tree stump. the forest cleared to reveal Pelican Creek. hair and haunch strolling along the riverbank. Try Xanterra (www. The leader of this family left me under no illusions.gtlc. They’re in the trees on the high slopes right now. and most important. delivering a snort and a toss of his horns that I interpreted. An elk stalks through the park. a thick. he looked up. My stumbling signalled that there was company. dusk and dawn must be enjoyed to the full: that’s when the animals are at their most active. Entry costs $25 for a private vehicle and $12 on foot. elk and moose that populate the shorelines. Getting around Cruise America (www. two unfathomable. the crowds all but disappear and Yellowstone recovers its magic. The end of the epic was out of sight but inevitable – a favoured lupine tactic is to slowly. as mean as a wasp and as fast as a steeplechaser. The bear was no more than 35m away when I shot to my feet with a flurry. Where to stay The Grand Teton Lodge Company (www. at yet another scrawny. starting from $224 per night. never giving me another thought. nose down for dinner. I stared into those eyes. park. then on the pine branches and. I climbed a rise and found a smaller clan a few metres from the path. most elusive of all. eating the pine cones – that’s how ravenous they are. but with the distinctive hunchback of a grizzly.450 per week inclusive.nps. grazing noiselessly. relentlessly shadowing a family of elk across the open flood plain of the Yellowstone River. with their vast shoulders tapering to a cluster of dainty. The problem with binoculars. in fact. it was known as Wonderland. If you stay on the low ground. wielding interstellar binoculars in the hunt for the rarer sights on the Yellowstone spotter’s list – doughty long-horn sheep. The bear silently hung a left. pristine black pools. reveal the best of Yellowstone and shield you from the worst. it was strolling towards the river. the park rangers in their HannaBarbera hats patiently spend their days pointing out that: ‘Ma’am. Before they named it Yellowstone National Park. to mean: ‘I’m as dumb as a heifer. After a cacophonous kilometre. slapping my walking stick on every log on the path while trying not to slip into a jaunty whistle (which apparently makes you sound too much like prey). and the alpine peaks to the east wearing the first snowfall of autumn. all the time. only the steam from the hot springs breaking through the whiteness. with those off-limits high forests rolling away to a clear horizon. With boredom. from Jackson Hole. and you’re standing too close. Dolittle-style. Third. one soon learns. And. a caravan of dust. that’s grizzly country in there. Rainbow at Yellowstone. with complete and utter indifference.gov/yell.

total guide | uSa Road tRip September 2010 Kanoo World Traveller 47 .

new York stAte Set among expanses of rolling pastures next to the Esopus creek is Kate’s Lazy Meadow Motel. until starlet Mandy Moore’s tour bus rumbles up (she took over the motel for three nights during her tour a couple of 48 Kanoo World Traveller September 2010 . Palm Springs. The Shady dell BisBee. 66 diner AlBuquerque. Disney animation Cars was based on real people and places along the iconic 3. so rise for breakfast early. Built in 1937. Peaceful.moviecolonyhotel. The hotel was originally built in 1935. or for those on the classic Las Vegas-LA-San Diego circuit. spaceship-shaped motorhomes first built in the ’50s. in particular. From $55 for a small towing caravan to $80 for an Airstream.Beds and burgers It’s not a road trip without classic diners and crazy motels – pull in for the best on the block. of course. Bisbee. Burgers from $6. There are just 10 stools squeezed around the gleaming aluminium counter.66diner. cAliforniA A motel’s not a motel without its own legend – and if the gossip along the Palm Springs boulevards is to be believed. Forty years later and the same pool is breast-stroked by media types from LA (it’s just two hours away). California (www. Dinner (and breakfast and lunch) is at Dot’s Diner – housed in a 1957 railroad car.com). glugging chocolate peanut-butter milkshakes and shovelling down mammoth plates of huevos rancheros and creamy chicken potpie. Road-weary travellers sit under pink fluoro lights on stainless-steel swivel stools KaTe’S lazy MeadoW MoTel Mount treMPer. Jim Morrison once leapt from the balcony of Movie Colony Hotel into the pool. and blonde-wood interiors. Your automobile isn’t the only one that will need a decent refuelling stop en route. 1 Old Douglas Road. it’s a great pit stop for road-trippers on the highway from LA to Phoenix. and before the ’60s series Route 66 was aired it had already seen Henry Fonda hitchhiking his way along in The Grapes of Wrath. that is. There are plenty of grassy plots.theshadydell. and the Green Chile Cheeseburgers at 66 Diner should get you going. From $99 B&B. ArizonA Just a half-hour trundle from the Mexican border is Shady Dell – a perfect introduction to the weird world of the American trailer park.99. Arizona (www.com). Movie Colony hoTel PAlM sPrings. and has all those photogenic features nostalgic travellers crave – low-rise living. Crucially. 726 North Indian Canyon Drive.) Or you might prefer the sky-blue-and-white Tiki bus. the road eventually joined up to stretch from Chicago to Santa Monica. New Mexico (www. new Mexico Not many roads have had a TV series named after them. But why take your own when you can pick from the collection of shiny silver Airstreams glinting in the sunshine? (They’re the still-futuristiclooking. just crying out for dusty RVs. All with absolutely no mod cons – expect black-and-white TVs. retro monochrome bathrooms and sunny terraces. designed by Modernist superstar Albert Frey. or to flash a glance at the life-size model of Marilyn by the turquoise booth seats.940km stretch. But then Route 66 is not just any old road. Shady Dell RV Park.com). More recently. And Movie Colony is a fabulous motel to catch zeds in – the rooms are California cool with seagrass floors. a peaceful red-and-green cabin. 1405 Central Avenue NE. or the 12m yacht. cassette players. Come up for air between mouthfuls to select Buddy Holly tracks on the jukebox. Albuquerque.

September 2010with World Traveller 49 in association Kanoo .total guide | uSa Road tRip ‘Road-weary travellers sit under pink fluoro lights on stainless-steel swivel stools. eating creamy chicken pie’ Your total guide to USA road trips.

50 Kanoo World Traveller September 2010 .

retro lamps and ceramic dogs. Take your pick from the rose-splattered walls and bedspread of ‘American Beauty’. is a retina-searing riot of pink and gold. You can’t beat an American burger.com). Liberace cut with Hansel and Gretel. and a dash of the Flintstones thrown in for good measure kitsch. MCdonald’S #1 STore MuSeuM des PlAines. halfway between LA and ’Frisco in San Luis Obispo. join-the-dots-style. there’s a bit of a riot going on inside B-52 singer Kate Pierson’s motel in the Catskill mountains. 5191 Rt 28 Mount Tremper. Des Plaines. it’s served super-chilled. Athens claims to be the maternity ward of the modern American burger – the place where. connected. Littered with driftwood and shaded by banana trees and palm fronds. the red ceiling of ‘Madonna’ (a nice juxtaposition to its waterfall sink and rock walls). you’re scoffing history. You’re not just mainlining calories. San Luis Obispo. Speedee. Double-meat halfpounder $7. Kate’s Lazy Meadow Motel. Texas (+1 903 675 8100). New York (www. There are no real burgers served any more. so you get the picture). The Ole West is a pleasant enough mix of check tablecloths and wood. by the overseas highway. The friendly pit stop is so casual that it might have been washed up with the tide. washed down with mocktails served in salt-rimmed jam jars. Service with a smile is standard in diners (just make sure you tip accordingly). savour it outside in the tropical garden. ‘axle grease’ is butter. the building rose again (based on the chain’s original 1955 blueprints). Its double-meat half-pounder approaches the dimensions of a small African dictatorship next to armband-sized onion rings and hefty chips. McDonald’s #1 Store Museum. where you can order supersize portions among glass-cased exhibits and displays of ties worn by the first staff. Key lime pie costs $5 a slice. Mangrove MaMa’S sugArloAf keY. A Florida favourite. The lounge in Room Four features a river scene mural studded with real branches and gnomes bobbing downstream in rubber rings. camped up with boulder waterfalls and bizarrely themed rooms. Texas. it has no-fuss concrete floors. as are some of the utensils on show – milkshake mixers. Madonna inn sAn luis oBisPo. Madonna Inn. or try a creamy Black Forest gâteau in the Alpine-style bakery – perfect for the blistering California sun outside. coloured gobstopper-studded spiral staircases.com). mismatched chairs and a brick fireplace (an incongruous addition. is original. floridA Mangrove Mama’s is a ramshackle roadside eatery down the Florida Keys – a string of islands that skips south from Miami. Not staying? Book dinner amid the bordello chic of the Gold Rush steak house. From $140 room only. The place is crammed with orange daisy-print bedspreads. ole WeST Bean’n’Burger Athens. with or without Ms Moore. Athens. café owner ‘Uncle’ Fletch Davis first put a meat patty between slices of bread. and delivers a sugary boost that’ll sustain you for the final hop down to Key West. And it’s not just Texas big.total guIde | uSa Road tRIp years ago). fryers from the days when the all-male staff (now replaced by waxy mannequins) actually hand-cut the chips. illinois Fancy sinking your teeth into a Big Mac under the original golden arches? Following uproar when the world’s first McDonald’s was torn down in the early ’80s. cAliforniA Kitsch. California (www. though. Illinois (open from May to September. 1500 E Tyler Street. Phoenix-like. Truth be told. while a ‘blonde with sand’ is coffee with cream and sugar. but in-the-know citizens have voted its burgers the best in town. And they should know: Clockwise from top left: Movie Colony Hotel.com). Extremely kitsch. 400 N Lee Street. Mile marker 20. ‘Deadeye’ is a poached egg. It’s the tangy key lime pie that draws a loyal following. The road sign of the first learn the lingo Sweet talk: be sure to learn some American diner slang before you order. ‘Mangrove Mama’s tangy key lime pie will sustain you for the final hop down to Key West’ mascot. Madonna Inn.mcdonalds. www. The Shady Dell. ‘first lady’ is an order of spare ribs. Sugarloaf Key. Artists Phillip Maberry and Scott Walker lent a hand with the décor (their house was the set for the ‘Love Shack’ video. From $130 room only. the end-of-the-road island that marks the most southerly point in the US. or the bouldercoated cocoon of ‘Caveman’ with its leopardprint bedspread. it’s also mighty fine beef from the state’s sprawling pastures. but there is a working McDonald’s across the road. Florida (+1 305 745 3030). given the balmy climate).lazymeadow. the menu is great: stuffed lobster and freshly grilled fish. ‘keep off the grass’ means no lettuce. Despite the humble surrounds. texAs You may have devoured the occasional mammoth fry-up in your home country – but it’s a mere drop in an ocean of saturated fat compared with what’s on offer at the Ole West Bean’n’Burger in Athens. 100 Madonna Road.madonnainn. and was turned into a museum. September 2010 Kanoo World Traveller 51 . in the late 1880s.

it’s midnight and i’m standing on the terrace of producer rob reiner’s home.’ Half an hour later. We’ve gone green overnight. I ease into the car park at the Getty Center art museum. We head downtown on the 10 Freeway and pull over at a sign that reads ‘Historic Arroyo Seco Parkway’. 52 Kanoo World Traveller September 2010 . high in the Hollywood hills. ‘You have to drive the car of the moment and. There are few skyscrapers because when the city grew – thanks to roads – it expanded ouwards. Just ask Anne Block. lava streaks of suVs speed west on santa Monica Boulevard. but this is where every road trip should start: ‘This is the first freeway in America. I need to get my bearings. though. In front are Beverly Hills and Century City. who runs the city’s first drive tour. takemymotherplease.’ Anne explains. ‘Welcome to LA. the beams of ocean Avenue convertibles pick out Pacific coast highway 1 and the ocean beyond. ‘Come see. that means a hybrid. ‘It’s the road that convinced Americans that freedom is only a drive away. you need a little history. Malibu and Venice. get behind the wheel. ‘To Live and Drive in LA’ (www. behind it. It has shaped everything in LA. built in the 1940s. to my left. Take to the wheel of a large automobile and you’ll find out everything you need to know about the place. ‘Dry Creek Road’ may not sound like much. We meet in the car park of the Four Seasons Hotel in Beverly Hills. LA can be one big traffic jam.’ she smiles.’ As we rumble over the freeway. says John Arlidge. and walk past the Monets and Rembrandts on to the terrace to admire the best picture of all. ‘Now. rising through the grey fog and haze. LA is a city more about cars and motion (pictures) than anything static. Stretched out before me like a giant tableau is LA.com). Below is Hollywood. as she steps out and hands me the key to a clunky-looking hybrid – half-electric.lost in transmission to discover all there is to know about la. ‘We don’t do maps in LA. n ew York may be the city that never sleeps but lA is a metropolis on the move. in front of me. South Central. Left.’ says Anne.’ First. To the right are the coastal districts of Santa Monica. I realise it’s true. but choose your moments. skyscrapers glow red and white. halfpetrol – Ford Escape. and it is also the greatest driving city in America. Block is sitting behind the wheel of her 1998 Cadillac Sedan DeVille. we have something better.’ says Anne. caught in the lights of thousands of stop-start cars. to the right. is Downtown and. right now.

total guide | uSa Road tRip Your total guide to USA road trips. September 2010 Kanoo World Traveller 53 in association with .

when the road ahead is clear. I’m not thirsty. ‘South Central. please. the place to pose will be the home of the lowrider.’ If my car really is the right ride. But being green isn’t enough. ‘Twenty dollars for the wash and wax. Everything hangs in a hubcap’s balance. If I were you. admiring my car. can mean a $195 fine. who runs the Magic Shears Afro Hair Salon.’ says Maurice Aguillera. On Crenshaw Boulevard I meet Mario Don. ‘It’s not for you. And what you drive tells the world who you are or. 54 Kanoo World Traveller September 2010 .’ I opt for ‘New Car’. ‘How about lemon lime?’ No. Even slowly rolling past one. pedestrians are an endangered species.000 Ferrari Enzo stands on the forecourt of Black on Black Motor Sports in law-abiding citizen Don’t cruise up and down Sunset Boulevard at night – it’s been made illegal to reduce noise and racing. who you want to be. A light blings on in my head. ‘Sweet ride. Don’t have an accident in Beverly Hills: you won’t find a hospital in that part of the city. Motorways are called freeways. really. ‘You want cherry soda?’ No thanks. ‘tricked out’ with chrome wheels and vanity licence plates: the ghetto. and drives a black Rolls-Royce Silver Shadow. we need to make sure we look good. Anne laughs. LA roads can be up to 40km long. I’d get a second car. ‘People care about your character but they care more about what you got. ‘Where do you want to cruise first?’ asks Anne. head valet at La Cienega car wash on La Cienega Boulevard. Tip valet parkers $5-$10. So. ‘because nobody ever gets ill in Beverly Hills’. so don’t use street numbers to navigate: ask for the ‘cross street’ – which crosses the main road – nearest your destination. The speed limit on Californian freeways is 65mph (100kph). on other roads it’s 25mph (40kph).not upwards. to impress. Give the car a new smell. Always stop dead at a Stop sign. In a town that is bigger than most island nations.’ he says. at least.’ he says. A Ferrari – you know what I’m saying?’ A $930. before we start cruising. ‘This is LA.

Or the ashtrays get full. Pacific Coast Highway 1 runs north to San Francisco – after Route 66. Does my Escape have enough ‘pull’ to park out front within ogling distance of the best tables? I give the head valet parker my best ‘out front’ look. The security steakheads don’t let just anyone in but. Where can I see the people who change their cars more often than their therapist. it’s the most famous stretch of Tarmac in America. I pull over. The basso thump of the engine as it bounces off the tiles is movie poetry. I realise that we’ve travelled more than 240km.total guide | uSa Road tRip Beverly Hills. passing through Brentwood. ‘We’ve gone nowhere – and everywhere. but staring down at the twinkling tail-lights like a billion stars. We walk in past Leonardo DiCaprio and Sharon Stone. I need some fresh air. I ask Anne? It’s a short run.’ He’s only half joking. so I’ll get a few back in. a restaurant set up by Duke Kahanamoku.’ Every month? ‘They get bored. ‘but some customers change cars every month. ‘Seeing the car. what war are you fighting?’ a passer-by shouts. Beverly Hills and Hollywood. It has a giant raised car park and a driveway that leads right up to the best tables. She checks in her two cocker spaniels – pets are accessories. That’s weird. palm-lined boulevards. The environmental lobby may have made it to Beverly Hills but the surgery queen is unimpressed. they figure Anne and I are anything but anyone. On the way. after all – at the Beverly Wilshire hotel and totters towards Prada. turn off the engine and listen to the cicadas. enjoying our new-found status. Anne and I drive into the hills to catch the last of the sun from Mulholland Drive.’ he replies.’ says Anne.’ September 2010 Kanoo World Traveller 55 . We soon leave the smog behind and enjoy the spume-flecked breeze as we head for Duke’s Barefoot Lounge in Malibu. It’s time to tackle those great taste-makers of California car culture: valet parkers. ‘Hey lady. ‘On this street. how you arrive is more important than what you wear. I could only be in the most car-centric city in the world. but after lunch I wish we could throw caution – not to mention taste – to the wind and head north. pointing at her giant military vehicle. Clockwise from top left: Santa Monica Pier. seeing the car. Maybe it’s the Huli Huli sandwich. Then it’s off to Rob Reiner’s home: tonight’s party venue for exclusive London club Soho House. the ocean. the Escape does it again. He barks: ‘Move the Bentley. But this is an LA story. a woman who’s had so much cosmetic surgery she surely no longer remembers what she originally looked like. Bel Air. ‘That.’ I tell Anne. singing soft rock classics all the way to Santa Barbara. and finished where we started. The soundtrack is pure Tuscany. so instead we head back down the coast and pull onto Sunset Boulevard. maybe the sun has fried our brains. It’s 40km long and runs from the Pacific to Downtown. arrives in a canary-yellow Hummer.’ she smiles. In Los Angeles what matters is not what you wear but what you drive. half an hour from South Central. ‘The planet is so O-V-E-R’. After feasting on sushi and snippets of conversation between Hollywood actors and their leather-skinned agents. Lifeguards patrol the beaches. the security guards figure we’re anything but no one’ Later. There’s a new Bentley Azure on the driveway. As we stare out from the terrace over the city. The Escape is coming in. Anne takes me to Miyagi’s restaurant. When we arrive.’ Why? ‘The biggest tippers are driving them funny new electrics these days. to palm-lined Rodeo Drive. Manager Rick Black says he has a full order book for the next 12 months. She raises a drawn-on eyebrow and shouts. via the Petersen Automotive Museum on Wilshire Boulevard. ‘is LA. the Hawaiian who brought surfing to the USA. we speed through a tunnel negotiated by Jamie Foxx and Tom Cruise in Collateral. taken in hilltop roads. Queensway Bay. Right on cue.

rev their way from Mexico to New Orleans for Mardi Gras. Hendrix and Dylan. featuring genuine locals. desert gas stations. Stetsoned old men.com/badlands.’ Holly (Sissy Spacek) who watches her life degenerate from a straightforward acrossthe-tracks teen romance into a bloodbath. THE ROUTE: Interstate 10. his uncool sidekick.’ BadlandS (terrence Malick. who simply wave as they pass. and petrol pump attendants standing solitary among sunflaked Pepsi-Cola murals. On their way to New Orleans. RELIVE THE MOMENT: The famous scene in the redneck café.000km across two states so you’ll need a week. as Kit (Martin Sheen) hones his shooting skills on Spacek’s dismal father. and a classic soundtrack by Steppenwolf. from South Dakota through Wyoming to Montana – roughly 600km. whose lingering divisions resonate even today. 1973) ‘Little did I realise that what began in the alleys and backways of this quiet town would end in the badlands of Montana. takes place in the village of Morganza. That’s almost 2. 1969) This is the film that launched a thousand bike trips. MOST ROADWORTHY QUOTE: ‘Through desert and mesa. played by Peter Fonda. plus the crucial crib notes to recreate the trip. and Billy (Dennis Hopper). which you could do in a long weekend. MOST ROADWORTHY QUOTE: ‘What you represent to them is freedom… Talking about it and being it. as the laidback Wyatt.Keep rolling eaSy rider (dennis hopper. visit www. northwest of New Orleans. off Highway 61. or the black farming family.’ So says 15-year-old 56 Kanoo World Traveller September 2010 . neon-lit motels. of an America that’s deeply uneasy with itself. that’s two different things. and is soon applying them liberally across two states. This is a picture telephone poles stretching into infinity. So evocative is the american road movie that it’s tough not to book your flights to the uS while the credits are still rolling. Even the non-speaking characters stand out: a moustachioed café proprietress in gingham smirking as her bigoted regulars taunt the duo off the premises. to the ultimately lethal redneck territories of the Deep South. blinking motel signs. from a hippie commune already going to seed. they pass through numerous clashing Americas. on the Mexican border. allblackhills. steering by the telephone lines towards Montana. yet the movie still pulls fans across the Atlantic. Here are four classics. It’s down to Badlands’ haunting but irresistible portrait of the Midwest: craggy. It’s a bleak introduction to Badlands National Park. RELIVE THE MOMENT: For details on South Dakota’s Badlands National Park. Easy Rider features road-movie motifs galore: striated pink and purple sunsets. across endless miles of open range we made our headlong way. small-time school ma’ams. to New Orleans. wailing a-trains. from El Paso in Texas. THE ROUTE: Interstate 90.

Soon he has been rescued by his brother and the road trip begins.total guIde | uSa Road tRIp ThelMa & louiSe (ridley scott. all the way to LA and back down again. away from the mainstream cities. Texas. played by Geena Davis. then drive 110km south to the park’s headquarters. so begins the infamous road trip that makes this film the showpiece of a repressed feminine era. the endless scrub takes on the look of a lunar landscape – this is archetypal road trip territory. You may stay or pass on through or whatever. Shady Dell. Slipping off the shackles of suburban living. We suggest you just do the New Mexico to Grand Canyon bit. journeying with his son in a beaten-up truck in search of the boy’s mother – a peroxided Nastassja Kinski. no money and barely leaves the house for fear of a beating from her brutish husband. TexaS (wim wenders. LA Photo Tour. have Louise. She has no car. Here.500km. and Louise (Susan Sarandon) embark on a journey that takes them to one of the most memorable film endings ever made. Along the way. With the help of a melancholy soundtrack by Ry Cooder. US Fish & Wildlife Service. which measures about 1. MOST ROADWORTHY QUOTE: ‘You shoot off a guy’s head. MOST ROADWORTHY QUOTE: A sign on the wall of a forgotten desert diner says: ‘The dust has come to stay. believe me. Tom Meinhold for the Madonna Inn. Harry Dean Stanton’s mute Travis regains first his speech. purposely avoiding Texas (look at a map and you’ll appreciate how difficult that is). on the men of America. You’ll need a week. With the law hot on their heels. Thelma. THE ROUTE: The section of Interstate 10 that runs from Texas through New Mexico to Los Angeles – about 2. like the life beneath a rock.’ PariS. Utah. Take Interstate 90 to Marathon. THE ROUTE: From Oklahoma suburbia to Mexico. RELIVE THE MOMENT: Look out for Court House Towers in Arches National Park. without telling a soul. Movie Colony Hotel. 1991) Sixties America didn’t hold much for the country girl. however. they shoot their way towards Mexico. And together. Thelma does. Taking Top: Thelma and Louise knew how to have fun during a pitstop. in association with . lies another hidden America. up through Texas. Images: Photolibrary. the girls speed off for a weekend in the mountains in their iconic 1966 green Thunderbird – but after stopping at a roadside café.’ Your total guide to USA September 2010 Kanoo World Traveller 57 road trips. Texas ain’t the place you want to get caught. Butter. RELIVE THE MOMENT: The dramatic desert landscapes in the opening scenes of the film are in Big Bend National Park. iStockphoto. their plans soon head downhill when Louise shoots a man dead. for the memorable scene where the policeman was locked in his trunk. 1984) A bearded man picks his solitary way across the blinding emptiness of America’s southern desert. Opposite: The bleak landscapes of Badlands. Take Thelma. then his memory and his life.200km (roughly two days).

EASY TIG R It’s all effortless ‘rustic-luxe’ in the safari camps of India. finds Josephine Davies. But hunting the big cats is still a challenge – especially when they’re hunting you too… 58 Kanoo World Traveller September 2010 .

But just an hour and a half’s drive later.’ He points to a small. but seldom visited by tourists). Just three days ago. their saris billowing out behind them like gaudy streamers. India’s elusive. I sheepishly climb down from the Jeep and make a mental note to decline the pre-safari masala chai (sweet Indian tea) next time.’ as loo breaks go. although illegal poaching means numbers are still dwindling. Tuk-tuks buzzed like angry hornets as we pulled away from Nagpur Airport. Kartikeya flashes us a Colgate-white grin and we continue onwards. Now a network of national parks provides the beasts with safe(ish) pockets of protected jungle. The first stop on our week-long wildlife circuit is It’s just after dawn in India’s Bandhavgarh National Park. straggly bush just off the dusty track. ‘there. Panna and Bandhavgarh. fixing his binoculars on the dense tangle of forest right behind the bush I have just emerged from. ‘Alarm calls from spotted deer – quick. while ladies riding sidesaddle on scooters weaved deftly among the traffic. To see one in the wild is a privileged experience – future generations may not be so lucky – and for the best chance of spotting one. we had decided to take in not one. Suddenly. he squints in the buttery early morning light. we were deep in tiger country.’ he whispers urgently. There’s a predator close by. the trail as sunlight slices through the trees in dazzling tiger-like stripes. and the clamour and clatter of hawkers. Moustache twitching. get in. open-top Jeep.IndIa | tIger safarI K artikeya is not happy with me. two peacocks burst out noisily from the undergrowth. the monsoon was still months away. endangered felines once roamed freely across this enormous state (one of the country’s largest. It was a colourful urban scene typical of any city in India. We watch and wait. this must be the scariest I’ve ever experienced. stay alert and don’t wander off. streets filled with the scents of ghee and spices. we had arrived in the sun-baked state of Madhya Pradesh. but three nature reserves: Pench. Kartikeya jumps up. scanning the landscape for a suitable spot. hearts thudding like drums. shimmying and shaking their emerald-blue tails like Vegas showgirls. Here. Hurrying back to the safety of our olive-green. ‘But be quick. India’s dry and dusty heartland (there’s a monument here marking the very middle of the sub-continent). home to one of the highest densities of tigers in the world – and I have broken one of our guide’s golden rules: never get out of your vehicle. the landscape painted in an autumnal palette of gold and brown beneath a cloudless cobalt sky. bumping gently along September 2010 Kanoo World Traveller 59 . the stillness is suddenly pierced by a highpitched ‘whoop-whoop’ noise.

We watch anxiously as a hungry jackal chases a fawn – and sigh with relief when it bounds away unharmed. we clamber into the poshest Jeep I’ve ever seen and sit on raised. In fact. Looking for tigers in Bandhavgarh National Park. an unspoiled wilderness of shadowy teak forests and rushing streams straight out of The Jungle Book.Clockwise from below left: Spotted deer drink at a jungle watering hole. where black-faced langur monkeys sit on dead tree trunks like old men on park benches. the mating calls of spotted deer). are watching us. ‘Pench is a wilderness of shadowy forests and rushing streams straight out of The Jungle Book’ Pench. however. As butterflies dance in the rising steam. We even become accustomed to the blood-curling screams of tourists being eaten alive (the sounds are. We spend hours watching muddy watering holes. Our suite comes with an open-air shower that faces the brooding forest beyond (the hotel lies right on the edge of Pench reserve). thronelike seats while Karun. We learn to tell the difference between Bambi-cute spotted deer and their sturdier. The next day.’ said my husband dramatically as he gazed into the impenetrable vegetation beyond. I rinse the shampoo from my hair while keeping a careful eye on the rustling vegetation – just in case. He is incredibly adept at multi-tasking. Opposite: Bandhavgarh National Park is Shere Khan territory. My thoughts. Fresh paw marks the size of dinner plates are imprinted deep in the 60 Kanoo World Traveller September 2010 . Ready for dinner at the Baghvan safari camp. We spot jewelbright bee-eaters and kingfishers. it was the inspiration for Kipling’s famous work. cradling their furry white bellies. takes us deep into the park. ‘Shere Khan is lurking in there somewhere. They. crested serpent eagles and tiny owlets huddled in tree hollows like feather dusters. and oozes rustic-luxe from every corner. Baghvan is one of a handful of supremely stylish safari camps dotted around Madhya Pradesh. We don’t see any tigers. darker cousins. were firmly focused on the more material comforts that awaited us: a cool drink and a long shower to wash away the red dust that clung to my skin. steering us along the rough tracks while simultaneously swivelling his head around like an owl to chat and point out interesting fauna. our enthusiastic guide. however. in fact. Sambar deer.

IndIa | tIger safarI September 2010 Kanoo World Traveller 61 .

this vast reserve – 448sq km of open grasslands and knotted jungle – feels even more so. I’m still groggy when we’re woken at 4. But tigers or no tigers. It’s back to business at Bandhavgarh. If Pench feels remote. ‘It was over there. etched deep into the bark five metres up. Gitandra (or ‘Geet’ as he prefers to be called) had never seen a tiger before he was posted to Mahua Kothi. Beneath the shade of a giant Banyan tree. and I glanced up – he was lapping water and watching me. We start to realise the awesome size of this predator. ‘It was dusk. As we touched down on the airstrip.’ I decided right then to take up his offer of sending over a chaperone to our hut for the moonlit walk to dinner later that evening. It takes patience: at Panna – another immodestly beautiful park riddled with deep gorges and wide rivers where plump crocs wallow expectantly – we search in vain. He laughs. we were met by the smiling manager of Mahua Kothi. however. with sightings reported just days before our arrival. Tumbling out onto the hot tarmac. we clink glasses with other khaki-clad guests. Go on safari in Africa and you simply view the wildlife.’ I shiver despite the warm breeze and another chorus of alarm calls lets us know that we are not alone. But his first encounter required little effort.’ he says. made of mud-walled huts that hide sumptuous rooms with sink-in beds and deep tubs. best reached by light aircraft (unless you fancy a serious overland slog). feasting on delicately spiced dhal and deliciously rich curries as the jungle hums with nocturnal life.‘There’s nothing like the sight of 300 kilos of fur and fangs approaching to wake you up’ sandy paths. The nearest town is the sleepy backwater of Umaria. jumping up and down and waving madly. ‘If they wanted to. is our best shot – home to 50-odd felines. the landscape here is a scene-stealer. we are told. but they don’t. and suddenly the Jeep feels rather exposed. they could jump in and eat us. kids scrambled to the rooftops. We quiz Karun about close encounters (he has had plenty) and ask him if he ever gets scared. Freddy Krueger-like claw marks scar teak trees. you must track it – which is at once frustrating and immensely more exciting. and we leave awed by a wild side of India we never knew existed.30am the next morning with 62 Kanoo World Traveller September 2010 . another handsome hideaway. gesturing at a small watering hole just a few hundred metres from our room. This park. In India.

We are so close I can count his whiskers. we forget to take pictures or even reach for our binoculars (he’s so close. Mist hangs low over the grassy meadows. but feel fortunate to have had our brief encounter earlier. A few hours later. Taj Safaris. iStockphoto. and with a flick of his tail the tiger – a young male. www. and Mahua Kothi. clockwise from top left: Mahua Kothi at dusk. are both luxurious Taj safari lodges. Kartikeya tells us – slopes back into the shadows. And the tiger has indeed gone. giving us a superb view of his fierce dentistry. Visit between November and February as April and May are too hot. Safari at Pench National Park. and doze gratefully during the short ride to the park entrance. teeth bared and understandably disgruntled at having his nap interrupted. with temperatures reaching up to 40ºC. Luxurious bathing at Mahua Kothi. there’s no need). and throws back his head in a yawn.tajhotels. I’m disappointed. swaying as it crashes through the foliage. straining into the distance. Shivering. thick folds of velvety fur spilling around his neck. however. terrifying and utterly mesmerising – so much so that I completely forget my desperate need to pee. the breezeless air is damp and cool. what big teeth you have. I barely remember to breathe as he pads through the long grass.IndIa | tIger safarI sweet tea and flapjacks. Just a few metres below our dangling flip-flops lies the snarling tiger. husband. we get the chance to get even closer to him. Each property offers accommodation from $685 per night. Then he looks up and fixes me with a serial-killer stare that says. russet stripes blending with the dappled vegetation. My. But there’s nothing like the sight of 300 kilos of fur and fangs approaching to wake you up. It’s thrilling. we hug the hot-water bottles and blankets laid out in the Jeep. After days of watching and waiting. in Pench National Park. The machine-gun fire of camera shutters signals the arrival of other Jeeps. I’m still half-asleep when we see the tiger stalking silently towards us. he nonchalantly sprawls across the path. This page. we see no sign of it. in Bandhavgarh National Park. ‘I could have you for breakfast.com When to go Avoid monsoon season (June to September) when parks are closed due to rain and flooding. hear us coming?’ asks my Opposite: You never know who’s watching from afar. There’s an unsettling awareness that we have rejoined the food chain. ‘Won’t he.’ Instead of proving his point. Bedroom suite at same hotel. the brief Where to stay Baghvan. He’s been seen sunning himself on a rocky escarpment – too steep for Jeeps to get near. So we switch to an elephant. Images: Photolibrary. Suddenly the mahout yelps and tries frantically to hit reverse (the elephant is having none of it). September 2010 Kanoo World Traveller 63 . um.

• 50% surcharge is applicable for transfer between 2300 hrs – 0600 hrs. saudi arabia : +966 14634454/2933740/4652834 Jeddah. for more informaTion and reservaTions. • Package rate is based on minimum 2 persons per confirmed booking. saudi arabia: +966 2 2632875 / 2633040 mahooz. Qatar: +974 4483777 / 4483704 dubai. uae: +971 2 6313900 muscat. 2010 only. • Prices are subject to change without prior notice. conTacT: dammam. bahrain: +973 17 828 801 / 828 792 / 828 793 doha.Malaysian Grand Prix 2010 1 PERSON HOTEL *price is per person Single Traveller [Per person per package] [Per person per package] (08 – 10 October 2010) 2 PERSONS & ABOVE Single Occupancy Twin Share EXTENSION STAY Single Occupancy Twin Share [Per person per package] [Per person per package] [Per person per package] HOTEL SENTRAL (3*) HOTEL CORONAdE (4*) HOTEL ISTANA (5*) USD 360 USD 440 USD 476 USD 237 USD 314 USD 360 USD 183 USD 223 USD 246 USD 53 USD 92 USD 116 USD 27 USD 46 USD 58 The above package prices are inclusive of The following: • 2 nights accommodation at your selected hotel from 8 – 10 October. Kanoo terms and conditions apply to all booking. 2010 • Daily breakfast • Return airport transfer on Day 1 & Day 3 (KLIA/KL CITY HOTEL/KLIA) • Return transfer on 9th October between hotel and Sepang International Circuit on private basis • Mobile phone sim card 12 Kanoo World Traveller September 2010 remarks • Package valid for the period of 8 – 10 October. uae: +971 4 3341444 abu dhabi. oman: +968 24700249 / 24700279 . saudi arabia: + 966 3 8355642 / 632 / 8355645 riyadh.

Then there are our gorgeous four-bedroom family villas. We’ve also just opened the Castaway Centre.concierge seychelles | Jakarta | cardiff | Matera The 30-second concierge Avi PArAhoo. Hauschka facials. which provides state-of-the-art diving and sailing equipment – all guests need to bring is their diving licence. fresh salads and wood-fired pizza – we had oyster platters last night (delish!).com September 2010 Kanoo World traveller 65 . spicy Creole cuisine. the main restaurant. and diving opportunities (Desroches has some of the world’s best scuba sites). www. Le Veloutier. or simply chill out in the spa and sample our new Dr. desroches islAnd Is there much to see and do on the island? Absolutely – the Seychelles location makes it perfect for conservation walks (which are turtle and bird-focused). feed giant tortoises. have a go at sea-kayaking. the biggest of its kind in the Seychelles. cycle through the coconut plantations. What can I eat on Desroches? Fresh fish and seafood. visit the local Creole village. we have an all-inclusive concept. go for picnics. overlooks the infinity pool and the beach – it’s beautiful. heAd villA host. What makes Desroches unique? Where do I start? Firstly. deep-sea fishing. We offer private island living. and you can check out the baby turtle hatchery. meaning you don’t need to worry about additional costs. play tennis. with just a handful of villas and suites on the island and no other hotels in sight: ours is the only one in the Amirantes Islands.desroches-island.

the streets throb with life – hawkers flog handicrafts and everywhere you look are people who’ve followed the bright lights and are determined to make their fortune where countless others have failed. an authentic. you can pick up anything from traditional Javanese masks to vintage records at Jalan Surabaya. or. Gambir 10110. mall culture has well and truly hit. The poverty gap is unabashedly visible.000 worshippers at a time. 66 Kanoo World Traveller September 2010 JAKARTA MUST-DOS The Dutch architecture in Fatahillah Square. Its nickname. Want to shop but can’t shake the feeling that you ought to be doing something more cultural? Alleviate the guilt by making Grand Indonesia (Jalan Mohammad. and if you’re on the hunt for designer goods and air-conditioned environs you’ll be spoilt for choice. is slightly out of place but is a fascinating reminder of the city’s colonial past. if only for the sake of A/C – but its collections of ancient Indonesian artefacts make the heat worth it. No matter the hour. . In the mood for haggling and street food? Glodok (Chinatown) is the place for you. Alternatively. Head here on a Friday or Saturday night to see fire-breathers and glass-eaters. just hold onto your handbag. It’s quiet. Husni Thamrin. so it’s only fitting that it has a suitably impressive mosque – cue the Masjid Istiqlal (Jalan Taman Wijaya Kusuma). ‘The Big Durian’.com) your mall of choice – its basement was turned into modern gallery space Jakarta Art District earlier this year. shady and a manageable size. There’s no denying that National Museum (12 Jl Medan Merdeka Barat. sample the high-end lounges of Plaza Indonesia’s EX Annex. Come nightfall. Indonesia is the world’s largest Muslim country. with five floors and room for up to 250. Kota (the old town). +62 21 386 8172. check out the world-class underground music scene.Indonesia Visit JaKarTa Fire-breathing displays. open-air antiques market in the Menteng neighbourhood. you’ll either love it or hate it. www. for a more alternative experience. J akarta is not a city anyone forgets in a hurry. perfectly sums up the Indonesian capital’s divisive nature: just like the pungent fruit. open Tue-Sun 9am3pm) could do with modernising. Alongside this warts-’n’-all scene. contemporary art exhibitions and designer shopping are all in a day’s work when you visit southeast Asia’s largest city – just make sure you plan around the traffic. the city is so sprawling that walking is not an option (make sure you know which district you’re heading for before getting in a taxi) and the smog is horrendous – but few places are as intoxicating. grand-indonesia.

www. rather than peanuts. wheRe TO eAT Payon Jl Kemang Raya 17.com The recently refurbished bedrooms at the Mandarin Oriental are sleek and contemporary – think cool neutrals complemented by splashes of scarlet or turquoise – and bathrooms feature huge bath tubs and dark wood units. Luxury at the Mandarin Oriental. Cashews. Tasty Indonesian satay. Tesate Plaza Senayan.com This all-suite.com Accessed via a corridor with Javanese script light-projected onto its walls. 4th floor. boutique hotel in south Jakarta sits above two floors of exclusive shops. +62 21 719 4826 The atmospheric outdoor pagoda setting means Payon is always buzzing. Mandarin Oriental Jakarta Jl MH Thamrin. Executive suite at same hotel. The Kemang Icon’s swimming pool. Mains from $15. Mains from $8. www. www. decadent flavour. wheRe TO STAy Kemang Icon by Alila Jl Kemang Raya 1. are used in the signature sauce. From $185 room only. Grand Indonesia Payon Jalan I Gusti Ngurah Rai nd er Tesate al Jalan Kolonel Soegiono Kemang Icon September 2010 Kanoo World Traveller 67 . It has überslinky. jakarta Mandarin Oriental l To Je Ja lan Jalan G ajah Mada Glodok Masjid Istiqlal National Museum Jalan Tol Insiny ur Wiyoto Wiyono Images: Mandarin Oriental.tesate. FISH OUT OF WATER: Indonesia is home to the walking catfish. Alia Hotels. clockwise from top left: Travel in style in a bajaj. individually designed rooms and a divine rooftop infinity pool. Kemang.concIerge | Jakarta Opposite: You couldn’t get much more central than the Mandarin Oriental.mandarinoriental. iStockphto. ARGY BAJAJY: In a hurry? Swerve around the traffic in a bajaj. which can wriggle out of water and even up trees in quest of food. this new satay restaurant is seriously upmarket. This page.alilahotels. Jl Asia Afrika. making for a smooth. the bright-orange Indonesian answer to thai tuk-tuks. and its spicy rice dishes ensure it has plenty of repeat customers – so be sure to book ahead. From $160 room only.

68 Kanoo World Traveller September 2010 . though cutting-edge design is also evident nowadays in the modern developments. and investment in the older areas – most notably the now-swanky Cardiff Bay. Cardiff is the city that has it all. third Marquess of Bute. The Welsh are a notoriously patriotic bunch and never is this more obvious than on match days for the national sport: rugby. the locals are generally garrulous and friendly.Wales Visit Cardiff From epic rugby matches to fairytale castles. a gorgeous castle in the city centre and excellent shopping make it a popular tourist destination. wealthy professionals whose presence only enhances the cosmopolitan buzz. welcoming visitors with open arms (and more often than not. which provides the set for much of the Doctor Who television series – has attracted young. C ardiff is one of the most affordable cities in the UK and yet also one of the nicest. Many of Cardiff’s buildings were either built or revamped in the 19th century by then-richest man in the world John Patrick Crichton-Stuart. Huge green spaces. an invitation to join them for a drink). But while they may roar with pride for their national team. whose tastes veered towards the fairytale-esque.

the River Taff. Do a day trip to the Gower peninsula. September 2010 Kanoo World Traveller 69 . a fairytale-style castle surrounded by forest. intricate cornicing – and. Watch the sun set over Cardiff Bay before sampling the city’s finest mocktails and dim-sum at the chic Ba Orient (www. The atmosphere is indescribable. Its expanses of rugged coastline and deserted beaches are simply breathtaking. millenniumstadium. stroll around Cardiff Castle (www. head north to Llanfairpwllgwyngyllgogerychwyrndrobwllllantysiliogogogoch. YOU SAY TOMATO… AND SO DO THEY: only 20 per cent of Wales’s population is fluent in Welsh – english is far more widely spoken. back in the city. Rugby – the national sport. Cardiff Bay. so you can leave the phrasebook at home. From $250 room only. clockwise from left: Cardiff Castle. The mature parkland is home to a wide array of wildlife as well as ornamental and rare trees – a true joy to visit.thaihouse. it’s still well worth booking yourself onto a tour of the enormous grounds. Churchill Way. www. Have a picnic in Bute Park.thestdavidshotel.biz Launched by its Thai/Welsh owners in 1985. Escape the hustle and bustle with a riverside bike ride along the pretty Taff Trail to the gorgeous Castell Coch.co. if only to be photographed by the welcome sign for what is the longestnamed town in europe. Castell Coch.wmc.lincolnhotel. from department stores like John Lewis and Marks & Spencer to smaller home-grown specialists including accessories shop Ollie & Nic and Karen Millen for frocks. Then. www. St David’s Hotel & Spa.armlessdragon.uk Head here for Welsh food with a contemporary twist – think cockle and laverbread cakes with leek fondue and truffle oil – served in what feels like someone’s home (it could only happen in Cardiff). stdavidscardiff. Cathays. com) – then take in a performance by the Welsh National Opera at the stunning Millennium Centre (www. From $135 B&B. Arcade shopping. Catch a rugby match at the Millennium Stadium (www. Mains from $20. added modern touches including animal prints.ConCierge | Cardiff The Armless Dragon No rth Rd Opposite. about 90 minutes’ drive from the city. wheRe TO eAT The Thai House Guildford Crescent. Mains from $14. which was built on the foundations of a Roman fort and decorated in painstaking detail. Welsh Assembly Government (Crown Copyright). this awardwinning restaurant dishes up exquisite fare: the prawns with coconut and kaffir lime are a must-try. Castell Coch. Master suite at St David’s Hotel & Spa. a glorious (and huge) green space in the city centre that’s flanked by Cardiff Castle. www. com). wheRe TO STAy St David’s Hotel & Spa Havannah Street.com The light-flooded rooms at this high-end hotel feature Cardiff Bay views and cool décor (we love the fur throws) – plus the Marine Spa has been voted one of the world’s best.uk). Lincoln House Cathedral Road.com). If no one’s playing.baorient. a huge new mall offering myriad British favourites. first taking in the Arcades – a network of Victorian shopping complexes laced with one-off boutiques – and then St David’s (www. Images: Visit Britain. This page.com). Lincoln House Ca th e Bute Park al Rd Cast le S dr t Arcades St David’s The Thai House Cardiff Castle Millennium Stadium Ce n t ra l Lin Pe na Clare St k Cardiff Co rp or at io n Rd rt h Rd Millennium Centre Ba Orient St David’s Hotel & Spa Cardiff Bay CARDIFF MUST-DOS Explore the city centre. as well as sumptuous four-posters. TAKE A DEEP BREATH: if you get time. The Armless Dragon Wyeverne Road. www. the 74.org. Sophia Gardens and Pontcanna Fields.uk The owners of this intimate Victorian townhouse have retained its period features – tiled floors. clockwise from below: Wales Millennium Centre.co.cardiffcastle.200-capacity venue that hosted the FA Cup Final while Wembley was being redeveloped.

002 097 2306983 Cairo C/O Halliburton Overseas Ltd Kilometer No 10. 02 643 9426 Kanoo Travel Rabigh Tel. 448 3777 Old Al Salatta. 03 883 2660/2660 Air India Khobar Tel. 02 653 0541 Gulf Air Jeddah Tel. 03 362 3454 Al Quds Street Qatif Tel. 03 362 1069 City Centre Al Mahoob Buidling Hufuf Tel. 03 882 2206/2601/2249 Kanoo Holidays Wholesale Airline Centre Khobar Tel.P 4th Floor. 02 657 9898 Srilankan Airlines Jeddah Tel. 002 02 7684700 Ext. 002 03 5459265 Alexandria 14 May Str. 002 095 2378333 Nile Hilton Down Town. 002 02 4130375/6 Kasr El Nil 15 Kasr El Nil Street Down Town Tel. 17 220788 Airport Office Bahrain Tel. 04 321 3607 Bab Makkah Jeddah Tel. 196/197 EASTERN PROvINCE Kanoo Building Corniche Road Jubail Tel. 002 02 27591690 Dr. Cairo Tel. 03 882 2789/2675/2792 United Airlines/Air Canada/Singapore Airlines/Swissair/ Austrian Airlines Tel. 1014 C/O U. 17 220220 Awali Branch Sitrah Avenue Road No. 17 576950 Air Canada/Austrian Airlines/Polish Olympic Airways/Sudan Airways/ Sas/Swiss Int’l/Tunis Mahooz Tel. 03 766 0045 Qantas Khobar Tel.03 835 4194/4917/ 4952 Gulf Air Qatif Tel. 03 363 0982/84 Hertz Khobar Tel. 02 544 7741 United Airlines Jeddah Tel. 002 03 424 1050 Aswan Abtal El-Tahrir Street Corniche El-Nil Tel. 441 3441 Ras Laffan Commercial Complex Ras Laffan Tel. 17 828754 Qantas/Jetabout Manama Tel. Land No 30 Ein Sokhna Road North Kattamia. Bahrain Abu Obeidah Avenue Wroad No. +968 24700249 QaTar Museum Street Corporate Centre Al Hithmi. find one near you and head down or call up to turn your getaway dreams into reality. 474 8772/4 Salam Tower West Bay. Cairo Tel. 03 882 3711/2467 Srilankan Airlines Khobar Tel. 02 263 2959 Ext. 02 263 3021/2959 Ext. 17 220849 Egypt Air Manama Tel. 03 586 3823 Dhahran Street Damman Tel. +33 1 4282 4181 Foreign Exchange 11 Rue Scribe Paris 75009 Tel. 03 864 7471 Municipal Street Al Khafji Tel. 17 828763 Mahooz Tel. 100/122 Prince Sultan Street Gizan Tel. 483 7826/483 7297 SaUDi araBia WESTERN PROvINCE Kanoo Centre Medina Road. 03 833 7694 Gulf Air Khobar Tel.D. 04 322 1087 Al Nawa Commercial Centre Al Sinnaiyat. 04 823 9120 Air Canada Jeddah Tel. 17220743 Thai International Mahooz Tel. 108 Khamis Abha Main Road Khamis Mushayat Tel. Khobar Tel. 4522 Tel. Yanbu Tel.Feeling excited about your holiday? Check through our list of the most popular Kanoo Travel offices. Doha Tel. 02 423 2785 Kanoo Travel Taif Tel. Doha Tel. 190 Air India Jeddah Tel. Kamal Hussin Heliopolis. Alexandria Tel. +33 5 5600 6336 OMan Kanoo Travel LLC PO Box 75 114 Jibroo. 03 585 3358/ 4080/2252 Gulf Air Jubail Tel. Doha Tel. Damman Tel. 17 220747 Kanoo Holidays Mahooz Tel. Cairo Tel. 07 317 4285 Singapore Airlines Jeddah Tel. Store 64 Boulevard Haussmann 75009 Paris Tel. 03 8821626/1851/ 8820161 Kanoo Tower King Saud Street. 03 882 2000 British Airways Dammam Tel. 02 661 4950 Kanoo Travel Medinah Tel. +33 1 5300 9897 Foreign Exchange 11 Cours de I’Intendance Bordeaux 33000 Tel. 03 851 5009 British Airways Khobar Tel. 02 263 2996. 17 321325 Al Moayd Tower Manama Tel. Medina Tel. 03 882 1518/2962/ 2602/03 882 4477/4442 70 Kanoo World Traveller September 2010 . 03 882 2478 Air India Jubail Tel. 17 828770 Air India Manama Tel.. Ext. 002 02 25804491 1 Wahib Doss Str. Jeddah Tel. 03 833 9793 Airport Office Dammam Tel. 03 882 2005/5597 King Khalid Street Khobar Tel.02 263 2959 Ext.. 002 02 27513930 FrancE Bureau de Change Kanoo Printemps Dept. 002 02 25747991 Luxor Winter Palace Hotel Tel. 02 668 0303/669 6571 Albishar Commercial Centre King Abdulaziz Street Al Bahar. 17 756487 British Airways Manama Tel. 02 736 4211 Aboobacker Al Siddiq Street. 03 362 2340 Kanoo Holidays Retail Airline Centre. 02 263 2959 Umalquara Street Hayfer Makkah Tel. 03 667 8041/7972 Gulf Air Hofuf Tel. 02 668 0303/669 Kenyan Airways Jeddah Tel. Jeddah Tel. 03 835 5714 British Airways Jubail Tel. 002 02 25785001 C/O Schlumberger Zeiny Tower 25 Misr Helwan Road Maadi Tel. Symoha Tel.N. 03 896 8496/ 9393/8493 Gulf Air Dammam Tel. World Trade Center 1191 Cornich El Nil Tel. Office No 9. Sayadlia Building. 002 02 26251307 El Areesh C/O Mfo. 07 222 3624 Philippine Airways Jeddah Tel. 17 828771 EGYPT Alexandria Booz Allen 1 Youssef El-Shazly Street Roushdy. Maadi Tel. 302 Manama Tel. 02 644 9030 Bamaroof Centre Hail Street. Muscat Tel. 002 068 3502868 Heliopolis Business Travel Centre 33 Nabil Elwakkad St Heliopolis. Northern Sinai Tel. Cairo Tel. 02 263 3040 Kanoo Travel Sharafiya Tel. Yanbu Tel. 17 755012 Lufthansa Mahooz Tel. 17 220701 Cyprus Airways Manama Tel. 03 852 9384/ 854 5240 Gulf Air Rastanura Tel.17 828802 Kanoo Travel Refinery Tel.

01179 065 107/105 Cardiff American Express 3 Queen Street Tel. 01 477 2228 Air India Buraidah Tel. 0141 225 29 05/08 Guildford American Express 38-40 High Street Tel. 02476 225511/ 07872 600 528 Croydon American Express 2-4 High Street Tel. 04 334 1444/315 6624 Kanoo Building Khalid Bin Al Waleed Street. 237/238 Qantas Kanoo Tower Riyadh Tel. com) is the ideal place for escaping the stresses of everyday life. 288/305 Sharjah Street Hotat Bani Tamim. 06 362 0080 Singapore Airlines Kanoo Tower Tel. 02380 716 805/808 York American Express 6 Stonegate Tel. 06 325 0888 Batha Riyadh Tel. 02920 649 305/ 02920 649 301 Coventry American Express 5 Cathedral Lanes Shopping Centre Tel. There are six dining options and the swimming pools.rotana. 0208 256 0808/0805 Edinburgh American Express 69 George Street 0131 718 2508/ 0131 718 2505 Essex Lakeside Bureau American Express Lakeside Shopping Centre West Thurrock Grays Tel. 01 403 0368 Gulf Air Olaya. the village-like complex draws on Arabic design principles to offer rooms and villas decked out with soothing colours and fabrics. Riyadh Tel. 04 335 1314 Najda Street Abu Dhabi Tel. Al Qassim Tel. 06 324 6514/325 0888 Al Kubaih Street Buraidah Tel. the Cove Rotana Resort (www.concierge | book your trip win a two-night stay at the Cove Rotana ResoRt Situated in the quiet emirate of Ras Al Khaimah. 01 477 2228 Ext. 0207 7617 900/908 London American Express 1 Savoy Court. 47th Street Rahima Tel. 07872 600528/ 01202 780 752 Brighton Amex House Implant American Express Ground Floor Amex House Edward Street Tel. 01 477 2228 Ext. spa. 01908 608 877 Nottingham American Express 2 victoria Street Tel. 2011. 0207 888 4196 London Haymarket American Express 30 – 31 Haymarket Tel. Riyadh Tel. Riyadh Tel. 04 881 5050 Karama Al Fathooi Centre. simply answer the following question and email your answer to easywin@hotmediapublishing. ThE PrizE We’ve got a two-night stay including breakfast and a 30-minute massage for two to give away to one lucky reader. Bur Dubai Tel. 01 555 0304 Silsilah Road Onaiza. 0121 644 5514/ 0121 644 5560 Bournemouth American Express 95A Old Christchurch Road Tel. 0207 4849 600/674 London Holborn Bureau American Express 156a Southampton Row Tel. 289/290 Wazir Street Al Azizea Building Riyadh Tel. 04 507 2242 Kanoo Building Al Orouba Street. 0115 924 7701/05 Plymouth American Express 139 Armada Tel. 292/293 United Airlines/Air Canada Kanoo Tower. 0207 240 1521 London Credit Swiss First Boston American Express Travel Office Cabot Square Canary Wharf Tel. 01 477 2228 Ext. 01 477 2228 Kanoo Travel Naseem Tel. 06 324 6514/325 0888 King Faisal Foundation Al Khairia Complex Riyadh Tel. 0161 833 7301 Milton Keynes American Express 670 Silbury Boulevard Tel. 01904 676 505 September 2010 Kanoo World Traveller 71 . 04 390 1992 Green Community Jebel Ali Road Dubai Tel. 0207 795 6703 London American Express 78 Brompton Road Knightsbridge Tel. 4734102/4734103 Srilankan Airlines Kanoo Tower Riyadh Tel. Nestling around a natural inlet on the placid Gulf coastline. Prize cannot be transferred to a third party or exchanged for cash. Q. 01 784 6500 Philippine Airlines Kanoo Tower Riyadh Tel. 01 232 8519 Airport Road Hail Tel. 0114 263 9305/08 Southampton American Express 99 Above Bar Tel. 04 294 1481 Dubai Internet City Building 12 Tel. 01273 525 041/040 Bristol American Express 74 Queens Road Tel. 04 334 1222 Marine Travel Services Dubai Tel. 0116 242 18 05/08 London American Express 84 Kensington High Street Tel. 04 885 3321 Jebel Ali LOB 16. private beach and nearby golf courses will keep you entertained for the duration of your stay. 04 334 9219 Kanoo Travel Corniche. 02 678 0400 UK Birmingham American Express Bank House 8 Cherry Street Tel. 06 543 0430 Air India Kanoo Tower. 01 463 4454 Main Street Al Khamseen Wadi Ad Dawasir Tel. Prize must be used before March 31. 04 393 1963 Deira City Centre Dubai Tel. The Strand Tel. Ground Floor Jebel Ali Free Zone Tel. Dubai Tel. 01708 890 654 Glasgow American Express 66 Gordon Street Tel. How many dining options does the Cove Rotana Resort offer? a) b) c) Three Six Fifty TERMS AND CONDITIONS: Entries must be submitted on or before September 30. 01 477 2228 Ext. 01752 502 702/707 Sheffield American Express 20 Charles Street Tel.com. 06 532 0280 Gulf Air Buraidah Tel. 03 667 0388 CENTRAL PROvINCE Kanoo Tower King Abdul Aziz Road Riyadh Tel. 07872 600528/ 0207 837 4416 Manchester American Express 10-12 St Mary’s Gate Tel. Al Hotah Tel. 01483 551 605/607 Leicester American Express 1 Horsefair Street Tel. 06 561 6058 Kanoo Travel – American Express Hermitage Building Al Karama Tel. 01 411 4780 UaE Kanoo Holidays Dubai Tel. 2010. Sharjah Tel. To enter. 01 461 0589/462 4902 Gulf Air Hail Tel. 02 631 3900/631 8187 Airport Office Dubai Tel. Abu Dhabi Tel.

Owners Margareta Berg and Daniele Kihlgren have restored the caves with meticulous attention to detail. which has seen part of a UNESCO World Heritage Site – the stone city of Matera – converted into 18 extraordinary hotel rooms. from the centuries-old wood used for the furniture to the iron rings in the walls.com 72 Kanoo World Traveller September 2010 .concierge | matera Suite dreamS Le Grotte DeLLa Civita. which working animals were tethered to. though – venture out to the gardens and you’ll be blasted with panoramic vistas across the Murgia Park river valley. preserving all traces of the site’s history. The grottoes have been lived in since prehistoric times. itaLy Ever slept in a cave before? Neither had we. www. until we discovered this fascinating project. It’s not all dim lighting and mystery. and we suspect the original inhabitants might have been pretty jealous if they’d seen the luxury their humble dwellings were destined to be steeped in several millennia later.sassidimatera.

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