Blazena Musilova, FT TU Liberec, Department of Clothing Technology E-mail: blazena.musilova@tul.

cz

COMPUTER PATTERN DESIGN

DIGITIZING
If you decide to use a computer for pattern designing and you are usual using paper patterns, the first step is to digitize those patterns. By digitization, the geometrical shapes of the pattern are transmitted with high precision to the computer in order to be stored in digital format. The pattern is positioned on the digitizing table and the operator follows the contour using a pointing device such as a mouse, also marking notches, darts, grain line and other technical elements. The pattern is identified on the horizontal x-axis and vertical y-axis. Function: identity piece (name, set, size, mirror) digitising contour (intermediate points on the curves, grading points – value zero or grade rule, standard notch, variable notch) digitising internal contours digitising big pieces in parts digitising the marks (reference line, position marks)
© Technical University of Liberec 2009

Blazena Musilova, FT TU Liberec, Department of Clothing Technology E-mail: blazena.musilova@tul.cz

COMPUTER PATTERN DESIGN

CHECKING AND MODIFYING
All patterns can be: automatically checked for problems concerning the seam line length, the matching of notches and the geometrical shapes correspondence. Patterns can be displayed and checked folded or unfolded, with or without seam allowance, with the darts closed or opened.
Some commands for modification and create pieces:
Notches – to create and manipulate notches Divide – to cut a pattern into two pieces Darts – to create and move darts on a pattern Grade – to choose which sizes to show on screen
© Technical University of Liberec 2009

Draw – to draw lines or curves Seam allowance setting Altering – to move a graded point Mode rule – the input of grade values for each point pattern Place – one pattern to be moved/rotate to fit against a second pattern

sample pattern or base size pattern can be either a block pattern or a production pattern of a style from which the other sizes are graded. the operator introduces into the computer the grading rules for each piece.0 0 x In order to grade a pattern. based on the grading rules previously stored on your computer.0 86.0 66.0 70. Grading is the process used by clothing manufacturers to produce patterns for a garment in a range of sizes for ready-to-wear clothing. Larg e y Sma ller r siz e Body measurements chart for Women of medium height 160 cm-172 cm S IZE B ust (cm ) (cm ) (cm ) 8 80.0 102.0 10 84.0 104. Grading methods may be used.cz COMPUTER PATTERN DESIGN PATTERN GRADING After the patterns are digitized.musilova@tul. Department of Clothing Technology E-mail: blazena.0 62.0 82.0 100. The master pattern.0 78.0 size grade points W aist H ips 98. It is generally the centre of the size range for grading accuracy.0 74.0 86.0 104.0 14 92.Blazena Musilova.0 94.0 106. © Technical University of Liberec 2009 .0 16 18 20 96. increases (or decreases) are applied at specific points of a pattern to make each new pattern in another larger (or smaller) size. FT TU Liberec.0 90.0 12 88.

respecting the standard construction rules and formula. The x-axis or y-axis represents the straight warp grain line of the fabric and is generally used as the grade reference line. The automatic grading method is based on complete redrawing of each pattern. Piece runs horizontally on the x-axis. FT TU Liberec. y).Blazena Musilova. For computer grading. these are expressed as Cartesian coordinates (x.musilova@tul.cz COMPUTER PATTERN DESIGN These are in the form of the vertical and horizontal changes at cardinal points on the pattern. +y -x +x -y Reference line The graded sizes can be simultaneously displayed on the computer screen and can be aligned in order to be checked in various ways. This method will always ensure perfect fitting for all sizes without any deviation. Department of Clothing Technology E-mail: blazena. © Technical University of Liberec 2009 .

0 7 4 .0 8 6 . dx) is the difference in measurement between two sizes. Department of Clothing Technology E-mail: blazena.0 9 2 . S IZ E T o fit w a is t T o fit h ip s cm in cm in 8 6 2 .0 2 4 1 /2 8 8 .0 3 8 1 /2 39 4 1 1 /2 4 3 1 /2 4 5 1 /2 Back skirt Front skirt Increment d = 4cm Increment d = 6cm © Technical University of Liberec 2009 .0 2 7 1 /2 29 3 1 1 /2 34 3 6 1 /2 9 6 . The full girth and length grading increments are found in most size charts.0 3 6 1 /2 18 12 14 16 20 7 0 . Increase or decrease in size takes place within the pattern area. Can be calculated from any reliable drafting system by calculating two sizes then subtracting the smaller from the larger.0 1 0 0 .0 1 0 5 . FT TU Liberec.Blazena Musilova.cz COMPUTER PATTERN DESIGN Grading increments A grading increment (dy.0 26 9 2 . Can also be calculated if the measurement was derived as a proportion of a full major girth measurement.musilova@tul.0 1 1 0 . either in a size chart or a specific point on a pattern.0 35 10 6 6 .0 1 1 5 .0 8 0 .

Department of Clothing Technology E-mail: blazena. -X.cz COMPUTER PATTERN DESIGN Grade points Grade points are positioned at the cardinal points of a pattern where the measurement to another size takes place.musilova@tul. -Y. These can be perimeter or internal. d y = 0 ) © Technical University of Liberec 2009 .axis and Y . grade point intersection point The distance and direction of the grade point movement is recorded on an X.axis from a zero point (ZP) that is stationary at the junction of the axis. FT TU Liberec. + Y. perimeter grade point contour This movement is in an X (horizontal) and Y (vertical) direction similar to the grid of manual internal grading.Blazena Musilova. The measurements are marked from the zero point in one of the four directions of + X. +y zero point -x +x -y +y ZP -x -y +x Front trouser grade rules of ZP ( d x = 0.

FT TU Liberec. The X-axis is horizontal.cz COMPUTER PATTERN DESIGN Zero point -x +y zero point +x -y +y zero point +x -y -x This option allows the graded nest to be stacked at a different point to the original grade. It is from this point that all the grading increments are calculated. © Technical University of Liberec 2009 The stationary zero point represents the position where no movement takes place in the X or Y direction. The movement up from the zero point is positive and down negative.Blazena Musilova.musilova@tul. Zero point can be situated in different position. Department of Clothing Technology E-mail: blazena. . The movement to the right from the zero point is positive and to the left negative. The Y .axis is vertical.

d y = 0 ) The same rules can be assigned to any point of any other pattern piece within the same size range. Department of Clothing Technology E-mail: blazena. Once a grade point number is assigned to a point on the pattern the computer automatically redraws the shape of the piece by connecting the grade points. Skirt SIZE dx dy grade rule of ZP ( d x = 0. The grade rules are listed in a grade rule table that lists and defines the numbered grade rules.musilova@tul. FT TU Liberec. © Technical University of Liberec 2009 .cz COMPUTER PATTERN DESIGN Grade rules For computer grading each movement of a graded point in both X and Y direction is defined by a numbered grade rule.Blazena Musilova.

© Technical University of Liberec 2009 1. Department of Clothing Technology E-mail: blazena. 3. notch. .These can be perimeter or internal.cz COMPUTER PATTERN DESIGN The method of grade rules setting – computing method The construction points are regarded as grade points Steps: Grading increments calculation. -X. 4. Grade points mostly coincide with construction points on pattern. Zero point (ZP) setting. 2. -Y recorded on an X. The direction of the grade point movement is marked in one of the four directions of + X. dx. Rule is setting for every points = movement of grading increment value. ZP ( d x = 0. It is difference dy. The position of zero point is mostly at the intersection point of one horizontal construction line and vertical construction line to each other situated on pattern construction. either in a size chart or a specific point on a pattern. FT TU Liberec.musilova@tul. d y = 0 ) Rule setting.axis and Y . + Y. Difference in measurement of construction abscissa between two sizes. top of dart and so on.Blazena Musilova. Grade points setting. It can be an intersection point. Keep the construction steps is required.axis from a zero point (ZP) that is stationary at the junction of the axis.

4 H7H4´ 0.25 hg 0.cz COMPUTER PATTERN DESIGN SKIRT grading W1 is ZP of Back skirt W7 is ZP of Front skirt W1 W21 W2 W4 W4´ W6 W7 Dimension h [ mm] wg [ mm] hg [ mm] kl [ mm] Distance H1H4 W1W4 W1W2 H7 H4´ W7W4´ W7W6 W1 H1 W1 K1 Sup Size 36 1680 680 920 580 Measurement 0.5hg + Pv (1) – 0.1 h+3 cm knee length 38 1680 720 960 580 Size 36 240 180 96 230 170 920 198 580 120 Size 40 1680 760 1000 580 Size 38 250 190 100 240 180 960 198 580 120 Size 40 260 200 104 250 190 100 198 580 120 Increments 0 40 40 0 Increments [mm] 10 10 4 10 10 4 0 0 0 W22 W61 W62 H1 0. FT TU Liberec.musilova@tul.5(wg + Pv(1)) W1 H1 K1 W2 W4 H4 K4 W7 W6 W4´ H4´ K4´ Grade rules W21 = W2 = W22. © Technical University of Liberec 2009 W61 =W6 = W62 .25wg+1cm 0.25hg+1cm 0.25 hg H7 Grade point Size 36 Δx 0 0 0 -4 -10 -10 -10 0 4 10 10 10 Δy 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 Δx 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 Size 38 Δy 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 Δx 0 0 0 +4 +10 +10 +10 0 -4 -10 -10 -10 Size 40 Δy 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 Back Front K1 Suppression: K4 K7 0. Department of Clothing Technology E-mail: blazena.25 hg+1cm H4=H4´ 0.Blazena Musilova.25 wg 0.4 H1H4 0.

as well as manual or semiautomatic methods to obtain the best results. so a minimal number of markers and lays are needed to obtain the ordered quantities.cz COMPUTER PATTERN DESIGN MARKER MAKING AND LAY PLANNING In the computer Marker plan (Cut Plan) application. Department of Clothing Technology E-mail: blazena. © Technical University of Liberec 2009 .Blazena Musilova. the operator sets the quantity of garments ordered by the client for each model. The user may choose among several automatic strategies of lay planning. some general settings regarding cutting: the length of the spreading table and spreading type for the marker the maximum number of sheets in the lay fabric width sizes selection safety distance between the pieces in the marker pieces placed along or against the Grain The Marker plan application can automatically generate the most efficient plan for size grouping and distribution on markers. FT TU Liberec.musilova@tul.

e. Department of Clothing Technology E-mail: blazena. © Technical University of Liberec 2009 Lay .cz COMPUTER PATTERN DESIGN Marker making The pieces that have to be cut in certain materials are nested in a rectangle that has the width of the fabric. glossy surface for example. Fabric with nap i. FT TU Liberec.out plan of pattern pieces . Pattern pieces be placed in the fabric along the reference line which is usually parallel to the fabric warp or to the column of knitted fabric.musilova@tul. The pieces are placed as efficient possible to achieve good fabric utilisation. Principles and rules of marker making Final shape of pattern pieces (Master) are nested with seam and hem allowances. Properties of the used material have to be respected such as type of pattern style and nap. corduroy: All pattern pieces need to laid directly along or corduroy against the nap. Plain fabric without pattern – pattern pieces can be placed as a turned by180º ⇒ less material waste Patterned fabric: (striped and check fabric) – balance marks are positioned at the strategic points on the seams to maintain correct relationship.Blazena Musilova. that is also applicable to fabrics with the distinctive surface texture.

This depends on the length of the cutting table. © Technical University of Liberec 2009 . manual cut 5 mm ÷ 15 mm.musilova@tul.cz COMPUTER PATTERN DESIGN There is needed to make provision of cutting technology. The pieces of one complete garment are cut out of 1 layer. T = Tubular spreading. A = face to face spreading. The different spreading types are: S = Simple spreading. Set the safety distance (buffer) that will be applied between the pieces in the marker for a better cutting quality. Each spreading defines the way the different layers are placed one on top of the other.Blazena Musilova. U = Upper fold spreading Using more sizes together and variety of pattern pieces and more compactly fit together leads to less material waste. FT TU Liberec. Respect the spreading type for the marker. Department of Clothing Technology E-mail: blazena. Range of safety size (buffer) is in the case of: cutter 0 ÷1 mm. The marker mustn't include the fixed edge of the fabric. all layers are placed in the same X and Y direction.

FT TU Liberec.musilova@tul.cz COMPUTER PATTERN DESIGN Formulas of fabric percentage utilisation Parameters needed to assessing of the material utilisation Marker area Sp S p = B p Lp [m 2 ] Bp… Lp… marker width [m] marker length [m] Lp Bp Technological waste Ot Ot = S p − ∑ S i m 2 i =1 n (space among the pattern pieces) [ ] [m2] Marker percentage utilisation „e“ e= Sp …marker area i ∑S i =1 n i ∑S i =1 n Sp 10 2 [%] e+Ot% = 1 …area of all pattern pieces [m2] Percentage technological waste Ot [ % ] O Ot [%] = t = Sp S p − ∑ Si i =1 n Sp 10 2 [%] © Technical University of Liberec 2009 .Blazena Musilova. Department of Clothing Technology E-mail: blazena.

cz COMPUTER PATTERN DESIGN MARKER GENERATION SYSTEM Maximum performance in interactive and automatic marking Main characteristics Combines interactive fitting and automatic fitting Allows all kinds of fabric to be dealt with. Department of Clothing Technology E-mail: blazena. marker length. and safety or distances buffering. whether open. FT TU Liberec.Blazena Musilova. for faced fabrics. checked. Unlimited dimensions as to the number and size of pieces. styles. folded.musilova@tul. with stripes. tubular… Great flexibility and simplicity in assignment and management of gross or blocking distances. the user may add new sizes. style or pieces to the marker. © Technical University of Liberec 2009 . Allows any marker from the data base to be viewed for use as a reference marker. tubular. Supports all kinds of laying methods. etc… Marking is dynamic.

Pattern pieces on the marker plan on striped fabrics. Department of Clothing Technology E-mail: blazena.Blazena Musilova. which are taken by a high resolution telecamera. FT TU Liberec. © Technical University of Liberec 2009 Checked marker plan. .musilova@tul. The program guarantees the correct position of the cloth patterns on the fabric pattern design.cz COMPUTER PATTERN DESIGN Allows pieces on striped and checked or patterned fabrics as simply as on plain fabric. Matching system Main characteristics Ideal tool to cut striped. based on the digital process of image on the real fabric. checked and other patterned fabric in the tailoring and upholstery industry.

Main characteristics Automatic performance of the pattern modification on the reference garment to achieve the custom adapted garment patterns for the individual customer. Modifications of the patterns is performed on the nearest reference size to the customer. The individual garment markers are fitted by copying from the reference marker. Automatic fitting of the markers required to manufacture the garment.Blazena Musilova.T.cz COMPUTER PATTERN DESIGN MADE TO MEASURE M.musilova@tul.M. The specific measurements of a customer are employed for the adaptation of standard pieces already saved in the system. Department of Clothing Technology E-mail: blazena. FT TU Liberec. It is a program used for the production of individual and personalized garments. Modification pattern. as identified at the point of sale. . the complete automatized solution for industrial custom tailoring. © Technical University of Liberec 2009 Take measurements.

cz COMPUTER PATTERN DESIGN The set of possible modifications to adapt a garment to the customers individual measurements is unlimited (shortening sleeves. The customer defines the personal options for the product desired.Blazena Musilova. raise right shoulder 2cm. shortening hems. Department of Clothing Technology E-mail: blazena.musilova@tul. etc…) The data is sent by internet to the factory. where the garment will be produced in the shortest possible time Creating patterns automatically. FT TU Liberec. raising both shoulder. © Technical University of Liberec 2009 .

blade cooling system. automatic mat cleaning system. direct digital control. Cutting room Detail of a knife Top cutting quality. sharpening mechanisms. FT TU Liberec. automatic control for adaptable regulation of the vacuum level.Blazena Musilova. cutting checked or patterned fabrics (Matching system). Cutting digital control systems may be applied in any sector where automated knife-cutting of materials is required. allowing the user to cut stock paper patterns. EXPORT FOR CUTTERS The markers can be directly sent to an automatic cutter.musilova@tul. both pen plotters and inkjet plotters.cz COMPUTER PATTERN DESIGN MARKER AND PATTERNS OUTPUT TO PLOTTER for manual cutting A large variety of plotters and cutters are offered. balanced knife. Some of the pen plotters can also be used as cutters. lateral vacuum. Department of Clothing Technology E-mail: blazena. © Technical University of Liberec 2009 . digital control.

cz COMPUTER PATTERN DESIGN 3D DESIGN APPLICATION Transform your vision into reality E. Realistic virtual human body. fabric and texture data.musilova@tul.g. FT TU Liberec.V-Sticher is a 3D design application that lets you streamline the design cycle. Department of Clothing Technology E-mail: blazena.Blazena Musilova. It simulates texture. fit your collection on unlimited body types © Technical University of Liberec 2009 Transform your 2D shapes into 3D garment . draping and fit of garments by displaying them on a realistic virtual human body based on your pattern.

Department of Clothing Technology E-mail: blazena. in various poses. true-to-life representation of an adaptable 3D human body. FT TU Liberec. Exceptionally detailed.musilova@tul.Blazena Musilova. © Technical University of Liberec 2009 . Transforming standard 2D information into a 3D garment directly from the data base from standard CAD system.cz COMPUTER PATTERN DESIGN FIT The most advanced computerized simulation of garments that genuinely reflects reality. Supporting fitting sessions by delivering real-time 3D response to any 2D changes using inherent PGS powerful tools Advanced testing tools enable accuracy of the garment fit.

© Technical University of Liberec 2009 . FT TU Liberec. present and transmit garments.cz COMPUTER PATTERN DESIGN DESIGN Designing in 3D using picture perfect textures Design. prints and logos in real-time 3D. with photo quality true-to-life representation Designing in different sorts of textures. fabric. Department of Clothing Technology E-mail: blazena.musilova@tul. seams.Blazena Musilova.

attachments and sizes. Department of Clothing Technology E-mail: blazena. interactive 3D catalogue. Communicate with your partners. expand your portfolio of design option through a realistic 3D digital catalogue.musilova@tul. shapes. Sharing data among multiple users through an integrated database that stores information such as style.cz COMPUTER PATTERN DESIGN MERCHANDISE Present a real-life view of your collection in a high quality.Blazena Musilova. fabrics. textures. FT TU Liberec. COLLABORATE Enabling remote viewing through Internet platform. © Technical University of Liberec 2009 .

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