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Antagonist and Stabilizer Training Exercises Core Training Exercise

Wrist & Forearm Stabillizers REPS SETS Anterior Core


Band Finger Extension 15 - 25 1-2 Feet-Up Crunches
Reverse Wrist Curls 15 - 25 2-3 Hanging Knee Lifts
Pronators 20 - 25 2 Mountain Climber Plank
Reverse Arm Curl 15 - 20 1-2 1-Arm Elbow & Side Plank
Wrist Extension Isometric 45 - 90 sec. 2 TRX “Marine Core”
Wide Pinch w/ Wrist Ext. 10 - 20 sec. 3-5 Windshield Wipers
Rotator Cuff & Scap Stabilizers REPS SETS Posterior Core
DB Internal Rotation 20 - 25 2 Superman
DB External Rotation 20 - 25 2 Reverse Plank
Sling Trainer “Ts” 10 - 20 2 Reverse Mtn. Climber Plank
Sling Trainer “Ys” 10 - 20 2 Side Hip Raises
Shrugs 20 - 25 2 Total/Posterior Chain
Scapular Push-Up 15 - 20 2 Sumo Deadlift
Scapular Pull-Up 6 - 12 2 Dumbbell Snatch
Antagonist (Push) Muscles REPS SETS Barbell Deadlift
Shoulder Press 15 - 20 1-2 Barbell Squat
Bench Press/Push-Up 15 - 25 1-2 Climbing-Specific Core
Tricep Pushdown 8 - 12 2 Steep Wall Traversing
Sling Trainer Pec Flys 8 - 12 2 Steep Wall Cut & Catch
Dips 8 - 20 2-3 Roof Lever-Ups
Front Lever

For a detailed description of every exercise listed above, see Eric Hörst's Training for Climb

Entry-level exercises shown in GREEN -- appropriate for all climbers.


Intermediate-level exercises shown in GOLD -- appropriate for experienced & advanced climbers.
Advanced-level exercises shown in PINK -- appropriate only for advanced/elite climbers.

Copyright 2016 Eric J. Hörst www.Training4Climbing.com


Eric Hörst's Training for Climbing Program
e Training Exercise Limit-Strength Exercises
REPS SETS Finger Flexors REPS SETS
25 - 100 2 Limit Bouldering 1 - 4 tries/prob 3 -7 problems
15 - 20 1-3 Wide Pinch w/ Wrist Extension 10 - 20 sec. 05-Feb
20 - 50 1-2 Hypergravity Bouldering 1 - 3 reps/prob 2 - 7 problems
10 - 25 1-2 “Minimum Edge” Hangs 5 hangs/set 2-5
5 - 12 2-3 Max-Weight Hangs “10-Second” 5 hangs/set 2-5
6 - 12 2-3 Max-Weight Hangs “7-53” Protocol 3 hangs/set 2-5
REPS SETS HIT System—Max-Strength Protocol 8 - 15 6 - 12
20 - 25 2 Heavy Finger Rolls 3-8 3-5
20 - 60 sec. 2-3 Pinch Ball Hangs 3 hangs/set 2-5
8 - 15 1-2 Arms & Torso REPS SETS
10 - 20 2 Weighted Pull-Ups 4-8 3-6
REPS SETS Lat Pulldown 4-8 3-6
10 - 15 2 System Wall “Isolation” 6 - 12 2-5
5-8 2-3 Square Pull-Ups 3 - 6 1-2
3-6 2-4 Typewriters 3-6 1-2
5-8 1-2 Scapular Pull-Ups 6 - 12 2-3
REPS SETS Uneven-Grip Pull-Ups 3-5 2-3
60 - 120 sec. 2-4 Steep Wall “Lock-Offs” (aka Touches) 6 - 12 2-5
1 ascent 3 - 5 ascents One-Arm Lock-Offs 2-3 2-3
3-8 2-3 One-Arm Pull-ups 1-5 2-5
2-5 2-3

c Hörst's Training for Climbing (3rd edition) or The Rock Climber's Exercise Guide (2017). Learn mo

DISCLAIMER & TERMS OF USE


climbers.

ng.com
bing Program -- www.Training4Climbing.com (Copyright 2016 - All Rights Reserved)
Power-Training Exercises
Finger Flexors REPS SETS
One-Arm Traversing 6 - 12 moves 2-3
One-Arm Lunging 6 - 12 moves 2-3
Campus Board (CB) “Bumps” 2 - 4 sets each side
CB Laddering (no skips, smallish rungs) up only 3 - 10
CB “Switch Hands” 6 - 12 moves 2-5
CB Double Dynos (smallish rungs) 6 - 12 moves 2-5
HIT System Pinch Hold Double Dynos 3 - 6 moves 2-3
Arms & Torso REPS SETS
Big-Move Boulder Problems 4 - 8 moves 3-8
Power Pull-Up (Chest-Bump) 5 - 12 1-3
Gym Rope Climbing sprint to top 3-8
CB “Laddering” (larger rungs w/ skips) 3 - 6 moves 3 - 10
Clap Pull-Ups 3-6 2-3
Boulder Campusing (Monkey Biz) 3 - 8 moves 3 - 10
CB Double Dynos (Large Rungs 5 - 9 moves 1-5

RPE (Rating of Preceived Exertion) is a 1 to 10 scale


See Training For Climbing (page 117) or The Rock Climber's Exercise

e (2017). Learn more at: www.Training4Climbing.com


ght 2016 - All Rights Reserved)

Strength/Power-Endurance Training Exercises


Finger Flexors REPS SETS
Short-Duration Fingerboard Repeaters 6 - 12 3-5
Bouldering 4x4s 4 4
Long-Duration Fingerboard Repeaters 4 3-5
HIT System—S/P-Endurance Protocol 30 - 90 sec. 6 - 12
System Wall Repeaters 30 - 60 sec. 4 - 12
Small-Rung Ladder Laps (No Skips) 30 - 60 sec. 2-5
Arms & Torso REPS SETS
Pull-Up Intervals ~5 10 - 20
Big-Holds, Big-Move 4x4s 4 4
Route Intervals 3 - 4 routes 1-3
Power Pull-Up Intervals (Chest-Bump) 3-5 5 - 10
Frenchies 2 - 6 cycles 2-4
Square Dance 45 - 90 sec. 2-4
Campus Ladder Laps on Big Holds 30 - 60 sec. 2-5
Gym Rope Interval sprint to top 3 - 10

RPE (Rating of Preceived Exertion) is a 1 to 10 scale of exercise/climbing intensity and subjective exertion.
Climbing (page 117) or The Rock Climber's Exercise Guide (page 182) for a detailed coverage of "training zones" for climbers.
Local and Generalized Aerobic Training Exercises
Local/Climbing-Specific Aerobic Endurance REPS SETS
ARC Traversing - Recovery Climbing (RPE: 4 to 6) 15 - 30 min. 1
Submaximal Route Intervals (RPE: 6 to 8) 2-4 min/route 10 - 20
Climb All Day many routes
Fingerboard Moving Hangs 5 - 10 min. 1-3
Campus Board or System Wall “Hand Play” 3 - 5 min. 3-6
Threshold Intervals (RPE: 7 to 8.5 out of 10) 3 - 5 min. 3-8
Generalized Aerobic Training REPS SETS
Steady State Aerobic Training (RPE: 6 to 8) 15 - 30 min.
Interval Training (RPE: 8 to 9) 30 - 60 each 6 - 10
High-Volume Generalized Aerobic Training (big wall and
alpine climbers only) 45 - 120 min.

ity and subjective exertion.


led coverage of "training zones" for climbers.
Beginner-level Program (with Cli
Workout with Climbing (1.5 - 3
SUGGESTED REPS & SETS
15 minutes of general warm-up activity, including mobility/flexibility exercises.
1 5 minutes of jogging, rowing, or other aerobic activity
2 5 minutes of easy (large hold) bouldering
3 5 minutes of mild hip, torso, shoulder, arm, and finger stretching

20 - 40 minutes of submaximal climbing--focus on learning new skills, refining technique, and mental game.
4 Do 4 - 8 top-rope routes (1/2 to 2 number grades below maximum ability)
Do a second lap on an route that you struggle or fall on--striving for efficient movement and pace.

10 - 30 minutes of strenuous bouldering or near-limit roped cimbing


5 Do 5 - 10 near-limit boulder problems….or do 2 - 4 near-limit roped routes.

3 - 5 set of pull-muscle exercises (10 - 20 minutes) REPS SETS


6 Weighted Pull-ups (select weight that would limit you to 7 or 8 reps) 5 3-5

4 - 8 sets of Core Exercises (10 - 15 minutes) REPS SETS


7 Hanging Knee Lifts 15 - 20 1-2
8 Supermans 16 - 20 1-2
9 Mountain Climber Plank 20 - 30 1
10 Feet-up Crunches 25 - 50 2-3

5 - 10 sets of Antagonist/Stabilizer Exercises (20 - 40 minutes) REPS SETS


* These can be done on a rest day from climbing; but don't skip--Important!
11 Shoulder Press 15 - 20 1-2
12 Bench Press 20 - 25 1-2
13 Finger band extensions 15 - 20 1-2
14 Reverse Wrist Curls 15 - 25 1-2
15 Dumbbell External Rotation 20 - 25 1-2
16 Dumbbell Internal Rotation 20 - 25 1-2

20 - 30 minutes Generalized Aerobic Conditioning


* This can be done on a rest day from climbing. See Microcycle Tab (below)
17 Running, Rowing, Cycling (or other) - 2 to 4 days per week

See Eric Hörst's Training for Climbing (3rd edition) or The Rock Climber's Exercise Guide (20

Copyright 2016 Eric J. Hörst | All Rights Reserved |

DISCLAIMER & TERMS OF


ram (with Climbing) [<5.11/V4 ability]
ut with Climbing (1.5 - 3.0 hours)
DATE DATE DATE DATE

ROUTES/LAPS ROUTES/LAPS ROUTES/LAPS ROUTES/LAPS

WT - REPS - SETS WT - REPS - SETS WT - REPS - SETS WT - REPS - SETS

REPS - SETS REPS - SETS REPS - SETS REPS - SETS

WEIGHT WEIGHT WEIGHT WEIGHT

xercise Guide (2017) for comprehensive guidance. Learn more at: www.Training4Climbing.com

st | All Rights Reserved | www.Training4Climbing.com

ISCLAIMER & TERMS OF USE


DATE

ROUTES/LAPS

WT - REPS - SETS

REPS - SETS

WEIGHT

www.Training4Climbing.com
Beginner-level Program (w
Workout without Climbing - No
SUGGESTED REPS & SETS
10 - 20 minutes of general warm-up activity, including mobility/flexibility exercises.
1 5 - 10 minutes of jogging, rowing, or other aerobic activity
2 5 - 10 minutes of mild hip, torso, shoulder, arm, and finger stretching

7 - 11 sets of finger flexor & pull-muscle exercises (30 - 50 minutes) REPS


3 Pull-ups (body weight -- do half of estimated max # of reps) 1/2 of BW Max
4 Weighted Pull-ups (select weight that would limit you to 7 or 8 reps) 5
5 Fingerboard Short-Duration Repeaters (bodyweight 10"/30" x 6) 6

7 - 14 sets of Core Exercises 15 - 25 minutes) REPS


6 Hanging Knee Lifts 15 - 20
7 Supermans 16 - 20
8 Mountain Climber Plank 20 - 30
9 Feet-up Crunches 25 - 50

5 - 10 sets of Antagonist/Stabilizer Exercises (20 - 40 minutes) REPS


* These can be done on a rest day from climbing; but don't skip--Important! See Microcycle tab.
10 Shoulder Press 15 - 20
11 Bench Press 20 - 25
12 Finger band extensions 15 - 20
13 Reverse Wrist Curls 15 - 25
14 Dumbbell External Rotation 20 - 25
15 Dumbbell Internal Rotation 20 - 25

20 - 30 minutes Generalized Aerobic Conditioning


* This can be done on a rest day from climbing. See Microcycle Tab (below)
16 Running, Rowing, Cycling (or other) - 2 to 4 days per week

See Eric Hörst's Training for Climbing (3rd edition) or The Rock Climber's Exercise G

Copyright 2016 Eric J. Hörst | All Right

DISCLAIMER
evel Program (without climbing) [<5.11/V4 ability]
Workout without Climbing - No Wall/Gym Available (1 - 2 .5 hours)
UGGESTED REPS & SETS DATE DATE DATE
ility exercises.

SETS WT - REPS - SETS WT - REPS - SETS WT - REPS - SETS


1
3-5
3-5

SETS REPS - SETS REPS - SETS REPS - SETS


2-4
2-3
1-3
2-4

SETS WEIGHT WEIGHT WEIGHT


See Microcycle tab.
1-2
1-2
1-2
1-2
1-2
1-2

b (below)

ck Climber's Exercise Guide (2017) for comprehensive guidance. Learn more at: www.Training4C

ght 2016 Eric J. Hörst | All Rights Reserved | www.Training4Climbing.com

DISCLAIMER & TERMS OF USE


DATE DATE

WT - REPS - SETS WT - REPS - SETS

REPS - SETS REPS - SETS

WEIGHT WEIGHT

rn more at: www.Training4Climbing.com


MICROCYCLE #1
Training Activity MONDAY TUESDAY WEDNESDAY THURSDAY FRIDAY
Performance Climbing (Outside)
Climbing (indoors)
Climbing-Specific Exercises
Core Exercises
Antagonist/Stabilizer Exercises
Generalized Aerobic Conditioning

MICROCYCLE #2
Training Activity MONDAY TUESDAY WEDNESDAY THURSDAY FRIDAY
Performance Climbing (Outside)
Climbing (indoors)
Climbing-Specific Exercises
Core Exercises
Antagonist/Stabilizer Exercises
Generalized Aerobic Conditioning

MICROCYCLE #3
Training Activity MONDAY TUESDAY WEDNESDAY THURSDAY FRIDAY
Performance Climbing (Outside)
Climbing (indoors)
Climbing-Specific Exercises
Core Exercises
Antagonist/Stabilizer Exercises
Generalized Aerobic Conditioning

MICROCYCLE #4
Training Activity MONDAY TUESDAY WEDNESDAY THURSDAY FRIDAY
Performance Climbing (Outside)
Climbing (indoors)
Climbing-Specific Exercises
Core Exercises
Antagonist/Stabilizer Exercises
Generalized Aerobic Conditioning

MICROCYCLE #5
Training Activity MONDAY TUESDAY WEDNESDAY THURSDAY FRIDAY
Performance Climbing (Outside)
Climbing (indoors)
Climbing-Specific Exercises
Core Exercises
Antagonist/Stabilizer Exercises
Generalized Aerobic Conditioning

LONG-TERM PROGRAMMING & NOTES


Program Focus: Learn climbing skills, refine technique, improve body composition, general conditioning, increase strength/en
Notes: Periodization not necessary. Repeat weekly microcycles indefinately, but take a 4- to 7-day break every 8 to 10 weeks

raining for Climbing (3rd edition) or The Rock Climber's Exercise Guide (2017) for comprehensive guidance. Learn mo

Copyright 2016 Eric J. Hörst | DISCLAIMER & TERMS OF USE


SATURDAY SUNDAY

SATURDAY SUNDAY

SATURDAY SUNDAY

SATURDAY SUNDAY

SATURDAY SUNDAY

ditioning, increase strength/endurance.


day break every 8 to 10 weeks.

ensive guidance. Learn more at: www.Training4Climbing.com

SE