Report on

“Study on muslin”

Under the guidance of

Mr. Montu Basak

Assistant Professor, FD

& Cluster Initiative Coordinator (CIC),

Submitted/Prepared By

Amit Raj Kishore (BFT/17/

Priyadarshi Adarsh (BFT/17/960)

Shailja Sundaram (BFT/17/817)

F.P.Tech.

National Institute of Fashion Technology, Kolkata

May, 2018
 ACKNOWLEDGEMENT

It is our privilege to express our sincerest regards to our

project mentor, Mr. Montu Basak, Assistant professor, FD &
Cluster Initiative Coordinator (CIC), for his valuable inputs,
able guidance, encouragement, and whole-hearted cooperation
throughout the duration of our project.

We wish to thank Mrs. Supriya Basu, Center Coordinator, F.P.

for her efforts and support in the course of our project work to
make it success.

We express our deep sense of gratitude to Mr. Subroto Biswas

Director of NIFT, Kolkata, for providing an incommensurable
opportunity and facilities in college.

On a personal note, we wish to avail this opportunity to

express our deep sense of heartfelt gratitude and indebtness to
our parents and family members without whose inspiration,
affection, blessings and constant encouragement this work
could have not seen the light of the day.
1 Table of Contents
2 Introduction .......................................................................................................................................... 6
3 Origin..................................................................................................................................................... 7
3.1 How did muslin gets its name? ..................................................................................................... 7
4 History ................................................................................................................................................... 7
4.1 Muslin trade in Bengal .................................................................................................................. 9
4.1.1 Sixteenth century ........................................................................................................... 10
4.1.2 Seventeenth century ...................................................................................................... 10
4.1.3 Eighteenth century......................................................................................................... 10
4.1.4 Decline ............................................................................................................................... 10
4.2 Muslin in Mughal era .................................................................................................................. 11
5 Raw materials used ........................................................................................................................ 12
6 The production process for muslin .............................................................................................. 13
6.1 Tools used for making muslin ..................................................................................................... 14
7 Exploring the types of muslin ...................................................................................................... 16
7.1 Mal mal khush: ............................................................................................................................ 16
7.2 Jhuna: .......................................................................................................................................... 16
7.3 Rongo: ......................................................................................................................................... 16
7.4 Abrawan: ..................................................................................................................................... 17
7.5 Khassa: ........................................................................................................................................ 17
7.6 Shubnam: .................................................................................................................................... 17
7.7 Alaballee: .................................................................................................................................... 17
7.8 Tanzeb: ........................................................................................................................................ 17
7.9 Taranddam: ................................................................................................................................. 17
7.10 Nyansookh: ................................................................................................................................. 17
7.11 Buddun-Khash: ............................................................................................................................ 18
7.12 Surbund: ...................................................................................................................................... 18
7.13 Kamis: .......................................................................................................................................... 18
7.14 Jamdani: ...................................................................................................................................... 18
7.15 Dooria:......................................................................................................................................... 18
7.16 Charkona: .................................................................................................................................... 18
8 Evolution........................................................................................................................................... 19
9 Characteristics of muslin: ............................................................................................................. 19
10 Muslin fabric care ....................................................................................................................... 20
11 Yarn counts .................................................................................................................................. 20
12 Uses................................................................................................................................................ 22
12.1 Dress-making and sewing ........................................................................................................... 22
12.2 Shellac polishing .......................................................................................................................... 23
12.3 Culinary ....................................................................................................................................... 23
12.4 Theatre and photography ........................................................................................................... 23
12.5 Medicine ..................................................................................................................................... 24
12.6 Where are muslin used nowadays? ............................................................................................ 25
13 Benefits of muslin: ...................................................................................................................... 25
14 Downsides to muslin: ................................................................................................................. 25
15 Marketing Of Muslin ................................................................................................................. 26
16 Future activities .......................................................................................................................... 26
16.1 Alternative Cotton Research ....................................................................................................... 26
16.2 • Development of the Spinning process ..................................................................................... 26
16.3 • Training .................................................................................................................................... 27
16.4 • Research ................................................................................................................................... 27
16.5 • Knowledge management site/ knowledge platform ............................................................... 27
16.6 • Institute of Muslin and Jamdani............................................................................................... 27
16.7 • Market research ....................................................................................................................... 27
17 Initiatives By Prime Minister of Bangladesh ................................................................................... 28
18 Muslin Festival ................................................................................................................................ 29
19 SURVEY ............................................................................................................................................ 30
19.1 Visit to Kalna ............................................................................................................................... 30
19.2 Weaving ...................................................................................................................................... 30
19.3 Export .......................................................................................................................................... 30
19.4 Price range .................................................................................................................................. 30
19.5 Government Help........................................................................................................................ 30
20 QUESTIONAIRE ................................................................................................................................ 31
21 Learning Outcome........................................................................................................................... 33
BIBLIOGRAPHY ............................................................................................................................................ 34
Introduction
Muslin, plain-woven cotton fabric made in various weights.
Muslin also mousseline, is a cotton fabric of plain weave. The better qualities of
muslin are fine and smooth in texture and are woven from evenly spun warps and
wefts, or fillings. They are given a soft finish, bleached or piece-dyed, and are
sometimes patterned in the loom or printed. The coarser varieties are often of
irregular yarns and textures, bleached, unbleached, or piece-dyed and are generally
finished by the application of sizing. Grades of muslin are known by such names as
book, mull, swiss, and sheeting. It is made in a wide range of weights from delicate
sheers to coarse sheeting. They were imported into Europe from India in the 17th
century and were later manufactured in Scotland and England. It gets its name
from the city of Mosul, Iraq, where it may have been first manufactured. Early
muslin was hand-woven of uncommonly delicate handspun yarn, especially in the
region around Dhaka, Bengal (now Bangladesh), where it may have originated. It
was imported into Europe for much of the 17th and early 18th centuries.
Fine linen muslin was formerly known as sindon.
In 2013, the traditional art of weaving Jamdani muslin in Bangladesh was included
in the list of Masterpieces of the Oral and Intangible Heritage of Humanity
by UNESCO.

Figure 1 woman showing muslin sheerness

2 Origin

Archaeologists believe that muslin of the finest weave found from the excavated
sites in India was produced during the Indus Valley Civilization about 5000 years
ago. But the first documented origin of this finely-woven fabric is from Dhaka
(ancient India).

Figure 2 cultivation areas of Bengal's finest cotton in 18th century

2.1 How did muslin gets its name?

Some say that the word was derived from Mosul, an old trade centre in Iraq, while
others think that muslin was connected with Musulipattam, sometime
headquarters of European trading companies in southern India. Muslin is not a
Persian word, nor Sanskrit, nor Bengali, so it is very likely that the name Muslin
was given by the Europeans to cotton cloth imported by them from Mosul, and when
they saw the fine cotton goods of Dhaka, they gave the same name to those fabrics.

3 History
Muslin was imported into Europe from India in the 17th century and were later
manufactured in Scotland and England. Early muslin was hand woven of
uncommonly delicate handspun yarn, especially in the region around Dhaka,
Bengal (now Bangladesh), where it may have originated. It was imported into
Europe for much of the 17th and early 18th centuries.
 Figure 2 woman wearing muslin saree

The name Muslin was given by the Europeans admits of little doubt, because not
only Dhaka cotton textiles, but cotton goods imported by the Europeans from other
parts of India like Gujarat, Golconda, etc. were also called Muslin.
Early muslins were often woven or embroidered with gold. The fabric can be
printed, or given a more textured appearance. Muslin cloth can also be decorated
with geometric or floral designs.

Figure 3 Man weaving muslin

During the Mughal rule in India, the muslins from Dhaka received royal patronage
and clothes made of this fabric were a sign of royalty and nobility. The Portuguese,
Dutch and English traders imported these textiles from India into much of Europe.
The fabrics were prized for their quality and were used to make fashionable gowns
and dresses. Trade with the Middle-East, China, Japan and other regions in Asia
also flourished. However, during the 18th century, the British monopolized the
textile trade with Bengal and squeezed other European and Asian traders out of the
region. In turn, they forcibly lowered the prices paid to weavers to purchase their
textiles.

Figure 4 Early muslin dress

This led to a gradual decline in the textile manufacturing industry in Bengal. The
final blow to the muslin trade was caused by the industrial revolution in Britain
when cheaper, machine-made goods from Britain flooded the market, and resulted
in the eventual death of the legendary fine muslin textiles of Bengal. After a long
period of decline, today some of the muslin weaving industry is being revived in
West Bengal and Bangladesh by governments, non-governmental organizations and
research groups.

3.1 Muslin trade in Bengal

Bengal has manufactured textiles for many centuries, as recorded in ancient hand-
written and printed documents. The Periplus of the Erythraean Sea mentions Arab
and Greek merchants trading between India and the Red Sea port of Aduli (in
present-day Eritrea), Egypt and Ethiopia in the second century CE. Cloths
including muslin were exchanged for ivory, tortoiseshell and rhinoceros-horn at that
time. Muslin was traded from Braganza – an ancient port of India located in
Gujarat – to different parts of Indian subcontinent before European merchants
came to India.

The Romans prized muslin highly, using bullion and gold coins to buy the material
from Deccan and South India. They introduced muslin into Europe, and eventually
it became very popular. A Chinese voyager, Ma Huan, wrote about five or six
varieties of fine cloths after visiting Bengal in the early fifteenth century; he
mentions that Bengal muslin was highly priced in China at that time.
3.1.1 Sixteenth century
In the early sixteenth century, a Portuguese apothecary named Tomes Pires
mentioned that Bengal muslins were traded to Thailand and China. Bengali muslin
was also traded throughout the Muslim world, from the Middle East to Southeast
Asia. During Ottoman rule from the sixteenth century onwards, large quantities of
muslin were exported to the Middle East. Muslin turbans were favored by the
Ottomans.

3.1.2 Seventeenth century

British and Dutch merchants traded textile goods including muslin from Bengal to
Aleppo of Syria. In an official inventory of Istanbul market dated from 1640, 20
types of muslins were found and the highest value found there is 1600 silver pence.
As the business expanded, European companies became interested in founding their
own factories in Dhaka. The Dutch made their factory in Dhaka in 1663, the British
in 1669 and the French in 1682.

3.1.3 Eighteenth century

The Ostend Company came to Bengal at the beginning of the eighteenth century.
They purchased textiles through agents and their own officials. When they found
the business very profitable, they also made settlements in Dhaka.

Available statistics show that in 1747 the trade of Dhaka cotton goods (primarily
Muslin), including local trade valued twenty-eight and a half lakh rupees.

3.1.4 Decline
From 1782 to 1787 the industrial revolution began in Britain, and fine cotton was
produced locally. During British colonial rule, the muslin industry declined due to
various colonial policies, which supported imports of industrially manufactured
textiles from Britain. A heavy duty of 75 percent was imposed on export of cotton
from Bengal. These measures ultimately lead to the decline of muslin trade in
Bengal.

In 1811, Bengal was still a major exporter of cotton cloth to the Americas and the
Indian Ocean. However, Bengali exports declined over the course of the early 19th
century, as British imports to Bengal increased, from 25% in 1811 to 93% in 1840.

Over the last few years, Muslin is making small revival as Hand woven Muslin
Sarees from Fulia are increasingly being adopted by Consumers worldwide. Muslin
forms a perfect backdrop for weaving of Floral Jamdani patterns.
 3.2 Muslin in Mughal era

Mughal emperors wore dresses made of Dhaka muslin, and this became another
crucial signifier of its quality. Muslin, by being worn by the emperor, became a part
of the Mughal apparatus of power.

The Mughals often embellished their muslin-wear with Persian-derived motifs

called buti and embroidery known as chikankari. More crucially, they incorporated
it within their aesthetic framework, giving names that drew on the idioms and
images of classical Persian poetry for the different varieties of muslin: abrawan
(flowing water); shabnam (evening dew); tanzeb (ornament of the body); nayansukh

Figure 5 Mughal princes wearing muslin robes in 1665

(pleasing to the eye); and more. It was during Akbar’s half century of reign in the
late 16th century that mulmul khas (―special clothing,‖ or muslin diaphanously
fine) began to be made exclusively for the emperor and the imperial household. It
was Akbar again who deemed muslin suitable for India’s summers and who
designed the Mughal jama, men’s outerwear with fitted top and a pleated skirt
falling to below the knees.
4 Raw materials used
 FINE COTTON

Figure 6 cotton plant Figure 7 cotton yarn

Figure 8 muslin yarn Figure 9 weavers weaving muslin fabric

5 The production process for muslin

Figure 10 cotton

Figure 11 cotton yarn

Figure 12 muslin fabric

Muslin was spectacularly demanding from beginning to end. The cotton plant
called phuti karpas (Gossypium arboreum var. neglecta), is used to make muslin.

All attempts—and there were many—to grow it outside that one natural habitat
failed. Its fibers were the silkiest of all. Contrary to all cotton logic, when soaked in
the water they shrank instead of swelling and dissolving. Alternate sections of its
ribbon-like structure flattened and actually became stronger so that even the ultra-
thin thread spun from it could withstand the stress when wound in the frame of the
loom.

5.1 Tools used for making muslin

Lined with countless fine, razor-sharp teeth, the upper jaw of a boalee (catfish) was
used for combing karpas (raw cotton) to clean it before ginning and spinning

Figure 13 tools for weaving

A few of the more than 50 tools used by specialists to make the muslin weaver’s
shana (ultrafine-toothed reed comb) from a dense bamboo called mahal that allows
for the setting of more than 1,000 teeth per meter. On a loom, Shanas keep
separation among spiderweb-thin warp threads.

Figure 14 cotton plant

This thread was spun in intensely humid conditions, usually in the morning and
evening, and then only by young women, whose supple fingers worked with water
bowls around them to moisten the air, or else besides riverbanks or on moored
boats.

Figure 15 muslin yarn

Even the seeds for the next planting season were specially treated to keep them
ready to germinate. After being carefully selected and dried in the sun, they were
put in an earthen pot in which ghee (clarified butter) had been kept. Its mouth was
sealed airtight, then it was hung from the ceiling of the hut at the height of an
average individual over the kitchen fire to keep it moderately warm.

Figure 16 cotton yarn

The most delicate, the very lightest of fibers were spun into muslin thread, and this
was obtained by using a dhunkar, a bamboo bow tautly strung with catgut. The
special bow for muslin cotton was small, and only women did the work—presumably
because a light touch was needed. When it was strummed (dhun also means a light
raga in classical Indian music) in a distinctive way, the lightest fleece from the
cotton pile separated from the heavier fibers and rose into the air. One theory is
that the strumming, by vibrating the air over the cotton pile, reduced its pressure
enough to allow the very lightest fibers to be pulled upward. It was these finest of
fibers—a mere eight percent of the total cotton harvest—that went into the making
of the finest muslin. Indeed, muslin was woven out of air.

Figure 17 Muslin

6 Exploring the types of muslin

Muslin is a cotton fabric of plain weave. Hand woven from an uncommon and
delicate yarn, it was found in Bangladesh and the Indian State of West Bengal and
was exported to Europe for much of the 17th and 18th century.

There are different types of muslin that emerged from different places over the
years. Here is a look at the most prominent ones:

6.1 Mal mal khush:

Derived from Mal-bush Khash which means special clothing, this fine muslin was the designated
cloth for the Emperor and his family and was specially made for their use.

6.2 Jhuna:

Jhuna was another type of muslin that was gauze-like and highly preferred by dancers. The
word Jhuna comes from a Hindi word “Jhina” which means “thin.” With a low thread number
(thread count refers to the number of horizontal and vertical threads per square inch) of 1000,
it was highly transparent which led to its ban as an export item. It was however, always popular
amongst the wives and harem members.

6.3 Rongo:

Similar to the Jhuna but described more as “muslin gauze,” it was approximately one and a half
times heavier than Mal-Mal Khas and also had a low thread number.
 6.4 Abrawan:

The meaning of Abrawan comes from two Farsi words meaning “water” and “flow.” This type
of muslin was extremely delicate and thin and was thus compared to that of the flowing water.

6.5 Khassa:

Khassa means very fine and thin muslin. The cloth was plain and famous for its thick weave
which had a count of 1400 to 2800. It was mentioned in the book Ain-i-Akbari written by Abu’l-
Fazl ibn Mubarak who used to document the administration of Emperor Akbar's empire.

6.6 Shubnam:

Shubnam which means 'morning dew' was such fine muslin that if the cloth was laid on the
grass to be dried, one could hardly differentiate between it and the dew. It usually had a thread
count from 700 to 1400.

6.7 Alaballee:

According to the weavers, alaballee meant “very fine” and was closely textured muslin. It was
mentioned as 'abollai' in the “Sequel to the Periplus of the Erythian Sea.” It had a thread
number of 1100 to 1900 and was quite heavier compared to the other kinds.

6.8 Tanzeb:

Tanzeb is another Farsi word which – when broken down – means “body” and “ornament.”
With a count of 800 to 1900, it was a light and plain muslin.

6.9 Taranddam:

Taranddanm was derived from the Arabic word “turuh” and the Farsi word “anddam” and
closely translated; it meant “a kind of cloth for the body.” It was imported by the English under
this name and was used as wearable cloth. It was plain and had a varying thread count from
1000 to 2700.

6.10 Nyansookh:

It is said that this particular type of muslin brought “pleasure to the eye.” The book, Ain-e-
Akbare mentions the use of Nyansookh. The cloth was famous for being a very thin fabric and
was used as a neckerchief. The thread number of this particular muslin would vary from 2200 to
2700.
 6.11 Buddun-Khash:

Buddun means ―body‖ while khash means ―special.‖ The meaning is self-
explanatory. This type of muslin was used for making clothes. It was of a very fine
cloth even though it was not as closely textured and had a thread count of about
2200.

6.12 Surbund:

The word Sunbund comes from Farsi words 'sur' and 'bund' meaning ―head‖ and
―tie.‖ The 'surbund' was mainly used for head attire, i.e. turbans. It had a thread
count of about 2100 and the Company would export this muslin back to the home
country. They were mostly used by the English as scarves.

6.13 Kamis:

Derived from the Arabic word Kamis which means dress, this type of muslin was
used to make kurtas. Unlike today, kurta's were once long enough to cover the
ankle, and required long pieces of cloth. It was plain and had a thread number of
1400.

6.14 Jamdani:

Muslin that had woven motifs was always commonly known as Jamdani. 'Jam'
meant flowers and 'dani' meant a container thus forming a flower vase of sorts.
Jamdani had many great varieties and was always in demand which made it
extremely expensive.

6.15 Dooria:

Dooria, derived from the word Dorakata was a type of stripped muslin. It was done
by twisting two or more threads on the loop and using three parts cotton and two
parts silk. It was usually made from 'bhoga' or 'sironj' cotton. Dooria was used to
make cloths for both men and women and had a thread number that varied from
1500 to 2100.

6.16 Charkona:

Charkona was a square checkerboard type of designed muslin. Charkona and

Dooria were similar in length, weight and thread numbers with the significant
difference being that Dooria was striped whereas Charkoa was square in shape and
had a design in the four corners.

7 Evolution
Even though Muslin has died down over the ages, the small groups of muslin
weavers in the Dhaka region did not let the tradition fade out completely. Even
though the muslin yarn became a little rougher and the designs became a little
simpler, the products of the Bengali weavers – however small scaled – retained its
charm and continued to be highly coveted by the members of the genteel society,
especially the Hindu community.

In the late 60s of the last century, there came a revival of the loom-embroidered
muslin, more commonly known as the Jamdani industry. The Jamdani had motifs
with floral and geometric patterns and was believed to be influenced by the
Persians. The unique patterns and representations of plants and flowers were
skillfully adapted onto the weave of the fabric, with the finest patterns being gentle
flowing lines instead of sharp edges. It was the remarkable range and diversity of
their patterns that set Jamdani apart from all other muslins.

From Dhaka, Jamdani has been transplanted to other parts of India and gradually
evolved over time into many other variations. These variations were later
influenced by their respective surroundings and created even more types and styles.
These products, today, benefit largely and are supported by organizations with
research, funding, marketing and communication. Bangladesh needs to improve
dramatically to keep with other country's backing of the lost arts of Muslin.

8 Characteristics of muslin:
(a) It is 100% cotton cloth.

(b) Muslin is comfortable.

(c) Muslin is perfectly plain, even, thin and transparent.

(d) Muslin is extremely light in weight.

(e) Muslin is normally white and off white colored. But it may be colored, printed
and embroidered.
 Figure 18 muslin in process

Muslin can range in color, finish, size and weight.

• Colors (natural, bleached white, black, etc.)

• Finish (flame retardant vs. non-flame retardant)

• Size (large seamless widths available)

• Weight (light to heavy weight)

9 Muslin fabric care

Muslin can be washed at home with cold water and mild detergent and
can be hung/laid flat to dry or tumble dried in the dryer on low. Muslin
fabric does wrinkle.

10 Yarn counts
The count in the best variety of muslin was 1800 threads per inch, while the lower
varieties had about 1400 threads per inch.

West Bengal produces nearly 55% of the Muslin produced in India. Though big
efforts were made to revive the fine muslin that was known worldwide, it has so far
been possible to create only the 500 count muslin. The entire process of spinning
and weaving needs immense skill and patience, and only a very small quantity of
the 500 count is produced in some areas of West Bengal. Cotton khadi yarn beyond
100 threads is considered to be Muslin Khadi which can be produced up to 500
count or more.
 Figure 19 muslin of different yarn counts

Muslin can be made in the following counts (Warp x Weft - English)/reed x pick(
EPI x PPI)/Wt is gm/sq. m

60s x 60s / 66 x 58/ 50

64 x 80/71 x55/40
80 x 80 /76 x 73/45
100 x80 /96 x 88/ 48
Normally in count, reed x pick and weight a tolerance of +-5% is observed. A
dimensional change of 4% and a scouring loss of 2.5% is generally the agreed norm.

The fabric should be free of the following flaws:

-More than two adjacent ends running parallel, broken or missing and extending
beyond 20 cm;
- Weft crack or more than two missing picks across the width of the material;
- Prominently noticeable weft bar due to the difference in raw material, count, twist,
luster, etc.;
- Noticeable selvedge defects;
- Noticeable warp or weft float in the body;
- Noticeable oil or other stains;
-Noticeable hole; cut or tear up to 3 mm in size;
-Smash rupturing the texture of the fabric;
- Undressed snarls noticeable throughout the piece;
- Conspicuous gout due to foreign matter usually lint or waste woven into cloth;
- Conspicuous broken pattern; and
- Any other flaw which would mar the appearance or affect the serviceability or
durability of the cloth.

11 Uses

11.1 Dress-making and sewing

When sewing clothing, a dressmaker may test the fit of a garment, using an
inexpensive muslin fabric before cutting pieces from expensive fabric, thereby
avoiding potential costly mistakes.

Muslin is also often used as a backing or lining for quilts, and thus can often be
found in wide widths in the quilting sections of fabric stores.

Figure 20 muslin dress

 11.2 Shellac polishing

Muslin is used as a French polishing pad.

11.3 Culinary

Muslin can be used as a filter:

• In a funnel when decanting fine wine or port to prevent sediment from

entering the decanter

• To separate liquid from mush .

• To retain a liquid solid (for example, in home cheese-making, when the milk
has curdled to a gel)

Muslin is used when making traditional Fijian Kava as a filter.

Beekeepers use muslin to filter melted beeswax to clean it of particles and debris.

Figure 21 muslin use in culinary

11.4 Theatre and photography

Muslin is often the cloth of choice for theater sets. It is used to mask the
background of sets and to establish the mood or feel of different scenes. It receives
paint well and, if treated properly, can be made translucent.
It also holds dyes well. It is often used to create nighttime scenes because when
dyed, it often gets a wavy look with the color varying slightly, such that it resembles
a night sky. Muslin shrinks after it is painted or sprayed with water, which is
desirable in some common techniques such as soft-covered flats.

Figure 22 muslin use in theater

In video production as well, muslin is used as a cheap green screen or blue screen,
either pre-colored or painted with latex paint (diluted with water). It is commonly
used as a background for the chroma key technique.

11.5 Medicine

A first-aid packet of 5m of "hydrophilic muslin", given to Italian soldiers in World

War I.

Surgeons use muslin gauze in cerebrovascular neurosurgery to wrap around

aneurysms or intracranial vessels at risk for bleeding

Figure 23 first aid packet

 11.6 Where are muslin used nowadays?

With its light weight and cotton material, muslin is an ideal fabric across many
applications. It’s commonly used in theater (for set design—cycloramas, stage flats,
backgrounds and props) and photography (as photography backdrops).

Here are a couple more uses for muslin fabric:

o Home décor
o Divider and accent curtains
o Draped ceiling and walls
o Painted backdrops
o Aisles runners
o Pillows
o Sheets
o Teabags
o Wrap veggies to remove moisture
o Squeeze lemons
o Make cheese
o Beauty
o Exfoliate/wash face and lips

12 Benefits of muslin:
1. Easy to sew

2. Lightweight and breathable

3. Relatively inexpensive

13 Downsides to muslin:
1. Not as durable as other weaves, such as twill

2. Tends to shrink

3. Wrinkles easily
14 Marketing Of Muslin
Aggressive marketing is key to the revival of muslin. The romances of
the fabric and its legendary lightness and distinctive motifs have to be
promoted both in the urban and rural areas. The approach for both
these areas is different and unique. The photograph shows the spanking
new showroom opened in Kolkata to promote muslin in an urban
setting. Rural outlets are being opened too.

Figure 24 Club muslin showroom in Kolkata

15 Future activities

15.1 Alternative Cotton Research

Since the original cotton plant for muslin is rare to find/ non-existent in current
times, Drik will research through new sources of cotton – other plants that are
similar to the original plant in characteristics and nature. It is identify if there can
be any alternative plants to add in the course of cotton production attaining support
from the Cotton Development Board.

15.2 • Development of the Spinning process

The manual process of spinning and weaving the cotton for cultivating yarn for
muslin is quite extensive. As time passed by, we have lost those skilled weavers and
spinners and the compression and pull of fingers adequate for the spinning; Drik
would like to develop the spinning skill of spinners to acquire as soft and delicate
yarn they can spun similar to previous generation spinners.

15.3 • Training

Drik aspires to provide training to the existing hero’s behind muslin/jamdani.

Through training the current spinners and weavers, meaning the craftsmen who
are involved in producing cotton goods in Bangladesh – Drik’s purpose would be to
enhance their skill and knowledge on Muslin.

15.4 • Research

As Drik’s research process on cotton/muslin and its origin, evidences and

artifacts is ongoing, it plans to practice it in upcoming years as well. As Drik
believes it’s a rich section of heritage and history, it requires nourishment of experts
and proper concern in finding the flawless facts.

15.5 • Knowledge management site/ knowledge platform

Drik plans to create a knowledge platform on Muslin and its origin, where books,
journals, articles, expert opinions, professional write-ups from different
organizations, agricultural and economical facts concerning muslin, audio visual
content, authentic research papers would be stored and managed for further use of
research or any initiative by local and international bodies or individuals. The site
will also have overall information on Drik’s project and the knowledge will be
shared descriptively to provide access to public on the concerning issue.

15.6 • Institute of Muslin and Jamdani

With effective support from government, local and international organizations –

Drik plans to establish an institute of Muslin and Jamdani; where all the experts
and people concerned can learn, share knowledge and work together on the
development of cotton and ensure further prosperity of Muslin and Jamdani
worldwide.

15.7 • Market research

The branding value of Muslin was already established and dominated the world
trade for centuries. As today, Drik is aiming to revive its legacy, in future Drik
wants to once again re-introduce its uniqueness and break in to the international
markets. To raise public concern and to make people recognize the true ownership
of Bengal over Muslin – Drik would like to capture the world trade market and
retain its branding value.

16 Initiatives By Prime Minister of Bangladesh

The honorable Prime Minister of The Government of The People’s Republic of
Bangladesh visited the Ministry of Textiles & Jute on 12-10-2014 and gave
directions for the development of handloom industry of the country.

A Specialized Committee headed by Chairman, Bangladesh Handloom Board

(BHB) comprising 7 members was formed and they are working according to the
TOR and work plan. Meanwhile, specialized committee chalked out strategies to
implement the aforesaid directives. BHB is frantically looking for Muslin made
Angarakha to carry out research work. In this context, BHB is making an
effective coordination and rapport with Bangladesh National Museum. BHB is
asking technical support and expertise from Rajshahi University Biological
Science & famous Research Organization ―Drik‖.

By turns this effort will help developing lost glory of muslin and uphold heritage
and tradition across the country and globe.

Figure 25 muslin in showroom representing its fineness

17 Muslin Festival
Muslin festival culminated an arduous two-year effort by a small research team
affiliated with Drik Picture Library, a Dhaka nonprofit that began in the 1990s and
has since evolved into a cultural institution aiming to change representations of
Bangladesh. It aimed at reviving the lost glory of the special fine cloth of the
subcontinent.

Figure 26 muslin festival held in Bangladesh 2016

18 SURVEY
18.1 Visit to Kalna

We went to Kadiapara, Kalna in Burdwan district to do our survey on muslin.

There we met Mr. Sukumar Das who is a Khadi farmer and he runs his own muslin
weaving unit in Kadiapara. All kinds of weaving related to muslin are done under
his guidance.

18.2 Weaving

He purchases cotton from Bohrumpur. According to him Bohrumpur’s muslin in

very fine and it is very good to make muslin. His daughter in law and other female
members of the family make spools of the cotton yarn. Then it is further weaved by
weavers. There are mostly handloom machines at his cluster because power loom
cannot weave very fine muslin products. So he prefers handloom.

The products he produces are plain muslins, muslin sarees, muslin dupatta,
handkerchiefs etc.

18.3 Export

He exports his products through different mediators to countries like Mexico,

France, and New Zealand etc. In India hi sells his products to states like States of
West Bengal, Orissa, Jharkhand, Assam, Bihar, Uttar Pradesh, Madhya Pradesh,
Maharashtra, Uttarakhand etc. In state he sells his products in Bara Bazar, Shyam
Bazar etc. He also takes order from different designers.

18.4 Price range

Fancy Dupatta- Rs. 900-1000

Normal dupatta- Rs. 400-500

Muslin Sarees( 400 count)- Rs. 7000-9000

Muslin Sarees (500 count)- Rs. 19000-20000

Handkerchiefs- Rs. 50

18.5 Government Help

He says there is no help provided from the government. Loan processes are very
difficult. Everything is private.
19 QUESTIONAIRE

Name - Address-

Age- Educational qual.-

Gender- Marital status-

Position- Social group-

1. How many members are there in your family?

a. No. of adults- ____
b. No. of children- ____
2. Do your children go to school?

3. When did this cluster start?

4. What is the number of workers working here?

5. What are the different kinds of products produced here?

6. From where are you provided with the raw material?

7. How much do you produce in a month?

8. Where do you export?

9. Are you able to export your product easily?

10. Time taken to make muslin?

11. What types of looms they are using?

12. What type of raw materials (Yarn) they use for production?

13. From where raw materials are purchased?

14. Do you participate any trade fairs?

15. Whether you need loan from Banks?

16. DO they face any kind of problem in getting loan?

20 Learning Outcome

o We got to know about muslin, and different kinds of muslin, yarn counts its
uses, market area around the globe.

o It is a major source of income to all those who are involved in the Muslin
business. It provides them with all types of possible facilities.

o In recent years, a downward trend can be noticed in the production and profit
pattern. This might be due to faulty policies or inadequate implementation of
adopted schemes.
 BIBLIOGRAPHY

 http://mytextilenotes.blogspot.in/2014/06/difference-between-muslin-and-
malmal.html, (accessed on 02.03.2018)

 http://www.sewnews.com/blogs/sewing/2012/09/17/muslin-monday-what-
to-make-with-one-of-the-oldest-cottons/ (accessed on 01.04.2018)

 http://www.biswabangla.in/pro-spc-club-muslin/2015/7/6/club-muslin
(accessed on 01.04.2018)

 https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Muslin (accessed on 18.04.2018)

 Mr. Sukumar Das – Taant Silpa, Khadi And Silpa Karyalaya, Kadiapara