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JAPAN

TRAVELING THROUG H ART,


DESIG N & ARCHITEC TURE

art.japan.travel
LISTINGS BY REGION
HOKKAIDO
01 Suiboku 30 Hoshinoya Tokyo
02 The Barn 31 Mitsubishi Ichigokan Museum, Tokyo
03 Moerenuma Park 32 Jiyu Gakuen Myonichikan
04 Sapporo International Art Festival 33 The Japan Folk Crafts Museum
05 Zaborin 34 Nakano Broadway
06 Space 1-15 35 The Peak Bar
36 The National Museum of Western
TOHOKU Art, Tokyo
+1 Rethinking Reconstruction 37 Tokyo National Museum, The Gallery
07 Aomori Museum of Art of Horyuji Treasures
08 Towada Art Center 38 National Museum of Nature and Science
09 Akita Museum of Art 39 Yokohama Museum of Art
10 Akita International University 40 Yokohama Triennale 2017
Nakajima Library 41 The Hakone Open-Air Museum
11 Onagawa Station 42 Sayama Forest Chapel
12 Iwate Museum of Art 43 Art Tower Mito
13 Ginzan Hot Spring Fujiya Inn
14 Yamagata Biennale 2018 CHUBU
TRAVELING THROUG H ART,
15 Ken Domon Museum of Photography 44 Genbi Shinkansen DESIG N & ARCHITEC TURE
16 Tendo Mokko Yamagata Head 45 Echigo-Tsumari Satoyama Museum
Office Showroom of Contemporary Art / Kinare
17 Sendai Mediatheque 46 Satoyama Jujo
18 Kankaku Museum 47 Kyu-Hyuga-Bettei at Atami Hyuga Villa
19 Hajimari Art Center 48 Asaba
49 Izu Photo Museum
TOKYO & KANTO 50 Takasugi-an
+1 The Infinity of Limited Space 51 Japan Alps Art Festival 2017
20 TOKYO CULTuART by BEAMS 52 Maru Factory
21 Kawaii Monster Café 53 D.T. Suzuki Museum
22 SunnyHills at Minami-Aoyama 54 Suzu 2017: Oku-Noto Triennale
23 Nezu Museum 55 Nakaya Ukichiro Museum of Snow
24 Taka Ishii Gallery and Ice
25 TOTO GALLERY·MA 56 Yoshijima Heritage House
26 21_21 Design Sight 57 21st Century Museum of
27 The National Art Center, Tokyo Contemporary Art, Kanazawa a r t .j a pa n .trave l
28 Mori Art Museum 58 Mosaic Tile Museum Tajimi
29 The National Museum of Modern Art,Tokyo 59 Site of Reversible Destiny -Yoro Park, Gifu
INTRODUCTION
“In my world, people, locations, and concepts change all the time.
This keeps me focused and excited, especially the pressure not
to miss out on anything,” says Hiroshi Nakamura, summing up
what young architects think about their work in Japan. Six years
as a student under the wings of celebrated building designer
Kengo Kuma have certainly eased his way to stardom, but that’s
not the only reason for his success. More important is Nakamura’s
unique sense to wed his structures with nature, such as designing
a reception hall roof like a volcano to let plants grow rampant in its
crater. His mentor Kuma, on the other hand, expresses closeness to
nature with intrinsic wood structures as modest as SunnyHills
(spot #22), or as big as the stadium for the upcoming Tokyo 2020
Olympic and Paralympic Games.
introduction

In the same spirit – being aware of nature – architects, designers, and

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artists all over Japan have created pockets, corners, and islands full
of their imagination. From the northernmost island of Hokkaido
to the sunny beaches of Okinawa, we’ve compiled 99 spots to spark
your imagination as a traveler – be it a museum, a shop, a building,
an art installation, or even everyday stopping points like Hiroshi
Hara’s imposing Kyoto Station (p.68).

We also made sure to get out of the cities and into more rural areas
up north in Tohoku, and down to Kyushu with its majestic volcanoes
(p.104). With all that in one compact booklet, as well as on our
homepage, what spot will you discover
along the way - by and for yourself ?
What will be the +1 that makes it 100?
We leave it up to you and wish you a
safe trip home – packed with
unforgettable memories.

–Roland Hagenberg
Hiroshi Hara and Roland Hagenberg #61 - “KOU-AN Glass Tea House” by Tokujin Yoshioka
HOKKAIDO
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“House K” in Sapporo by Yoshichika Takagi
01 02

Window view at Suiboku with Mt. Yotei

LUXURY RETREAT INSPIRED BY INK


S UIB OKU | 水墨

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The Barn
Not many homes in this world were designed for a 2,000 meter
volcano to fit into their window frames, but Suiboku is such
a building – a stylish retreat for vacationers with ten loft-size PROTECTED FROM THE ELEMENTS
luxury apartments facing the slopes of Mt. Yotei. It was developed THE B ARN
under the supervision of architect Koichiro Ishiguro, who had
previously worked with star architect Hiroshi Hara on the 40,000 A bistro-style restaurant, bar and café in Niseko, the Barn is a
seat Sapporo Dome stadium. “What water does to ink, light modern, minimalist take on the heavy-snow proof, gambrel-
does to concrete,” he explains, referring to suiboku – an ancient roofed farm structure typical of Hokkaido. Its facade and back
Chinese ink-drawing technique. Inside and outside Ishiguro left wall are faced with glass to allow the guests an unhindered
the concrete walls of the five story building uncovered, with the view outside – almost like a cozy, protective tunnel. Whether in
imprints of wood-casings serving as design patterns. It is “most daylight or at night, spring or winter, with its superb food and
beautiful when moonlight reflecting from the volcano’s snowy service, experiences are sure to be special at the Barn.
slopes casts shadows,” says the architect.
170-323 Yamada, Kutchan-cho, Abuta-gun, Hokkaido 044-0081
191-29 Yamada, Kutchan-cho, Abuta-gun, Hokkaido 044-0081 +81-136-23-0888
+81-136-21-6133 Hokkaido | Niseko
Hokkaido | Niseko Restaurant
Hotel
Ryuichi Sakamoto + Daito Manabe, “Sensing Streams - invisible,
inaudible”, 2014, at Sapporo International Art Festival 2014
PL AYIN G IN T H E ART A ND M U SI C
MO UN TA IN S 03 SA PP O RO 04
MOERENUMA PARK I NT E R NAT I O NA L
| モエレ沼公園 A RT FESTIVAL
| 札 幌 国 際 芸 術 祭 2017
Moerenuma Park is a treat to
visit all year round. Situated Sapporo International Art
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just outside Sapporo City, Festival, the first of its kind

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this public park infuses the in the region, launched in
surrounding nature with 2014 with musician Ryuichi
brightly colored playground Sakamoto as its Guest Director.
equipment and sculptural art It makes its return in 2017
by Isamu Noguchi. The park with artist and musician
project was initiated in 1988 Otomo Yoshihide in that
to realize Noguchi’s lifelong leading role. The next edition
dream of creating a park for will incorporate an open call
children. Although the artist component to further involve
had a fundamental role in the public.
the planning of this museum,
he did not live to see its Across Sapporo City
completion in 2005. +81-11-211-2314
Hokkaido | Sapporo
1-1 Moerenuma-koen, Higashi-ku, Event
Sapporo-shi, Hokkaido 007-0011
+81-11-790-1231
Hokkaido | Sapporo
Park
05 06

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CA STLE OF D RE A MS
SE REN E H OT S P R IN G R E SO RT S PACE 1 -1 5
Z AB OR IN | 坐忘林
Space 1-15 was formerly a residential building called “Château
Australian photographer, producer and art director Shouya Grigg de rêves” (Castle of dreams) in which a soap dealer decided to
turned Zaborin into a stylish ryokan spread over 15 villas. His open shop in one of the rooms. Since that simple beginning, the
art works – a dreamy interpretation of Hokkaido’s nature – are vintage structure is now a complex of intimate stores that hosts
on permanent view throughout the buildings that also feature a numerous destinations for art and design lovers alike. Its offerings
gallery, library, and private indoor and outdoor hot spring baths. range from handmade ceramics to cheese, artist books to used
The architecture’s serene atmosphere seems to have influenced even records, organic clothes, and even photography classes. Open only
the meticulously prepared kaiseki meals by chef Yoshihiro Seno. on weekend afternoons, Space 1-15 also organizes seasonal events
such as morning markets and summer festivals.
76-4 Hanazono, Kutchan-cho, Abuta-gun, Hokkaido 044-0084
+81-136-23-0003 15-1-319 Minamiichijo-nishi, Chuo-ku, Sapporo-shi, Hokkaido 060-0061
Hokkaido | Niseko Hokkaido | Sapporo
Hotel Complex

Shouya Grigg
TOHOKU

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#08 - “Wish Tree for Towada” by Yoko Ono at Towada Art Center, © Yoko Ono All Rights Reserved
+1 Toyo Ito at Sendai Mediatheque

When Pritzker Architecture the world. He completed the


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Prize winner Toyo Ito started building in 2001 with 13 inner

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work on his Mediatheque tubes branching out from
R ET H IN KIN G in Sendai he envisioned the bottom to top like giant tree
R EC O N ST RU CT IO N seven-story glass library as stems. “We live inside two
an artificial forest, where bodies. One is virtual, created
people could stroll around, by communication technology
electronic gadgets in hand, expanding continuously. The
Toyo Ito at Sendai Mediatheque
meeting friends or retreating other is primitive, limited,
to hideouts to study – all the and has not changed for
while communicating with thousands of years,” explains Ito.

“ One
We live inside two bodies.
is virtual, the other is
primitive. Between them,
architecture can be
the interface.”
-Toyo Ito
“Home-for-All” for children in Soma City by Toyo Ito and Klein Dytham architecture
“We still need sleep and
food and cannot escape
gravity, but architecture can
be the interface between
those bodies.” The Tohoku
Earthquake 10 years later
proved him right, as the
Mediatheque withstood the
devastating seismic shocks “ Besides designing,
and the people inside survived affordable housing is
– their “virtual bodies” one of my main concerns.
connected to the whole world. That explains my interest
in new construction “Earth Bricks” - Japan’s first earth structure house by Yasuhiro Yamashita
To support the reconstruction ”
materials.
efforts, Ito and like minded to help. High salt levels technique he developed makes
- Yasuhiro Yamashita

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contemporary architects
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had made farmland along transport easy and assembling


started Home-for-All, a the coast non-arable, but of building structures quick
Japanese npo that creates for children in Soma City with since Yamashita and his and painless, with the bonus
houses in disaster stricken an intricate wooden ceiling practice, Atelier Tekuto, had of being a creative design
areas around Tohoku, with and roof structure. Home- experience using earth as a alternative to nondescript
15 buildings finished so far. for-All members Toyo Ito, construction material, he shelter containers. -rh
These are gathering spaces for Kumiko Inui, Sou Fujimoto, developed a new method to
those in temporary housing, and Akihisa Hirata even used make use of the damaged
for kids to play in, and for debris and trees broken by the earth of Minamisanriku for an
farmers and fishermen to tsunami to create a building emergency supply warehouse.
get back on their feet. At the in Rikuzentakata where 1,800
same time Home-for-All people had lost their lives. It Shigeru Ban too put his
also serves as a role model. was so unusually designed ingenuity to work (spot #11).
“Shelters and support facilities that the prestigious Venice For decades, the award-
should not be dull containers Biennale architecture event winning architect helped
or warehouses but places exhibited the structure. out all over the world where
with a pleasant, uplifting destruction, war, or famine
design,” says architect Mark Others, like Tokyo-based threatened survival: with
Dytham. He and partner architect Yasuhiro Yamashita, emergency structures made Recipient of the Pritzker Architecture
Prize and disaster relief innovator
Astrid Klein created a building went out on their own of simple paper tubes. The Shigeru Ban
D ESIGN M EETS WHITE CUBES FOUJI TA’S THE BO OK
A RC HEOLO GY 07 TOWADA ART CENTER 08 MA STERPI ECES 09 COLOSS EUM 10
AOMORI M US EUM | 十和田市現代美術館 AKI TA MUS E UM AKITA INTERNATIONAL
OF ART | 青森県立美術館 OF ART | 秋 田 県 立 美 術 館 UNI V E RS I T Y NAK A JIMA
Occupying an entire block L I B R ARY | 国 際教養大学
The museum is situated next on the city’s main avenue, Centrally located in Akita, 中 嶋 記 念 図 書館
to the excavation site of the Towada Art Center is this museum designed by
This magnificent university
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Sannai-Maruyama ruins from comprised of 16 white cubes Tadao Ando houses Masakichi

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the Jomon Period (10,000 - interconnected by glass Hirano’s collection of library designed by Mitsuru
300 BC). Architect Jun Aoki’s hallways. The cubes, some significant works by Leonard Senda is open to serve its
idea was to dig trenches as if themselves with walls of (Tsuguharu) Foujita (1886-1968), students 24 hours a day, 365 days
they were from an excavation glass, allow for a dialogue which the local businessman a year, and is held together with
site. Works of domestic and between city and museum, had amassed through a bare wood beams and columns
international artists make up between passersby looking in relationship with the expatriate made of local cedar, forming
the permanent collection – and museum goers looking artist in the 1930s. Hirano what resembles a large umbrella.
among them Yoshitomo Nara, out. Ryue Nishizawa’s unique later established a foundation With rows of bookshelves in
Shusaku Arakawa (spot #59), design creates an open, that eventually merged with the stadium seats, watching
Marc Chagall, and Paul Klee. A inviting space that serves to the state museum, and today over the students and their
theater, restaurant, and shop highlight the museum’s 38 the comprehensive collection desks situated in the arena, the
are also part of the four-story site-specific works. includes paintings, watercolors, building is conceptually referred
structure. and sketches. to as a “book colosseum”.
10-9 Nishi-nibancho, Towada-shi,
185 Chikano, Yasuta, Aomori-shi, Aomori 034-0082 1-4-2 Nakadori, Akita-shi, Akita 010- 193-2 Okutsubakidai, Yuwa-
Aomori 038-0021 +81-176-20-1127 0001 Tsubakigawa, Akita-shi, Akita 010-1292
+81-17-783-3000 Aomori | Towada +81-18-853-8686 +81-18-886-5907
Aomori | Aomori Museum Akita | Akita Akita | Akita
Museum Museum Library
11 12

SH IGERU BA N IN TO H OKU S EE THE WORKS OF JA PA NES E MOD ERN MAST ERS


ON AG AWA STAT I O N | 女 川 駅 舎 I WATE MUS E UM OF ART | 岩 手 県 立 美 術 館

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Onagawa Station on the jr Ishinomaki Line was one of the Opened in 2001 within Morioka City’s Chuo Park, the Iwate
many train stations that lost its buildings and trains to the 2011 Museum of Art holds a large collection of works by artists from
tsunami, and less than a decade since, the Onagawa Station the region, namely Tetsugoro Yorozu, Shunsuke Matsumoto, and
area has been revamped through the town’s revitalization Yasutake Funakoshi; all important figures in shaping Japanese
efforts, with the station itself as a shining example. Designed by modern art. The museum also organizes exhibitions with
Shigeru Ban, the wide and soaring three-story structure features contemporary artists, as well as young artists from Iwate. Nearby
a latticed wood ceiling that yields generous amounts of light. It in Chuo Park are the Study Museum of Archeological Site, the
also functions as more than a train station, with retail shops and Children’s Science Museum, and the Morioka Memorial Museum
a spacious hot bath “Yupoppo” decorated with contemporary of Great Predecessors, all worth visiting.
murals. New businesses, such as the Seapal-Pier Onagawa
shopping center, are opening near the station as well. Onagawa 12-3 Matsuhaba, Motomiya,
Station may be the last stop on the train line, but today the Morioka-shi, Iwate 020-0866
building stands as a starting point for many. +81-19-658-1711
Iwate | Morioka
1-10 Ohara, Onagawahama, Onagawa-cho, Oshika-gun, Miyagi 986-2261 Museum
Miyagi | Onagawa
Station
13

A RT I N THE
MOUNTA I NS
14 A PHOTO GRAPHER
& HI S FRI E NDS
15
YAMAGATA KE N D OMON
BIENNALE 2018 MUSEUM OF PHOTOGRAPHY
HOT WAT ER | みちのおくの 芸 術 祭 山 形 | 土 門 拳 記 念館
GINZ AN H OT S P RI N G F UJ I YA I NN | 銀 山 温 泉 藤 屋 ビエンナーレ 2018
Ken Domon (1909-1990)

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This historic inn is situated in a valley just broad enough for a noisy The second edition of this art is perhaps one of the
creek and a row of dreamy ryokan on either side. 400 years ago the festival in Yamagata Prefecture most prolific 20th century
village was booming with 30,000 miners trying their luck in silver, took place in 2016, with the photographers, having
but when the last piece of metal had been extracted and carted off, the Tohoku University of Art worked in a wide range of
fortune hunters disappeared. Today there are a mere 120 people living and Design campus and the fields from photojournalism
in Ginzan, pumping and sharing the same 60°C hot spring water Yamagata Cultural Center to portraits of cultural icons
from 10 meters underground as their ancestors did for centuries. at the center of operations. and Buddhist statues. The
Fujiya Ginzan’s original 300 year old structure was redesigned by The festival invited artists museum collection consists
Kengo Kuma, whose cozy minimalism immediately catapulted the of various mediums, both of 70,000 of Domon’s works,
village onto the pages of international lifestyle magazines. “Anybody local and new, to explore the gifted by the photographer
from the street is now welcome to step in,” says the proprietor, “not area through fine arts, music, himself to his hometown of
only guests, and they can have a cup of tea in the lobby to enjoy the fashion, food, poetry, as well as Sakata. It opened in 1983 in
architecture.” Doors to the guest rooms seem to disappear and blend nature. The third installment scenic Iimoriyama Park.
into the surrounding walls, as do drawers and cupboards, which of the Biennale is scheduled to
keep you prisoner in a labyrinth of relaxation. take place in 2018. 2-13 Iimoriyama, Sakata-shi, Yamagata
998-0055
443 Shinpata, Ginzan, Obanazawa-shi, Yamagata 999-4333 Across Yamagata City +81-234-31-0028
+81-237-28-2141 +81-23-627-2091 Yamagata | Sakata
Yamagata | Obanazawa Yamagata | Yamagata Museum
Hotel Event
Butterfly Stool by Sori Yanagi

ART OF PLYWOOD E V E RY B O DY ’S GET IN TOUCH WITH TO NEW


TE N D O M O KKO 16 GL ASS PAL AC E 17 YOUR S ENS ES 18 BEGI NNI NG S 19
YAMAG ATA H E AD S E NDA I K ANK AKU MUS E UM HA JI MARI ART
OFFIC E SH OWRO O M M E D I AT H EQ U E | 感 覚ミュージアム CE NTE R | はじまりの美術館
| 天童木工 本社ショールーム | せんだいメディアテーク
Opened in 2000, visitors of Located in a renovated 19th
In the town of Tendo, where This Toyo Ito-designed all ages come to the Kankaku century sake brewery, the
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there has been a long cultural institution with Museum, designed by Kijo Yoshiji Takehara-designed
tradition of woodcraft, Tendo galleries, cinema, and a Rokkaku, to explore all five Hajimari Art Center is a
Mokko developed its own library is one of Japan’s bodily senses. In collaboration unique art brut art center
bent plywood technology in modern architectural with artists and engineers, the which opened in 2014 to foster
1947, and has been fabricating masterpieces, and has museum has incorporated a better understanding of the
plywood furniture with received international new technology with basic works of artists not commonly
renowned designers and acclaim. The intrinsic glass ideas to create fun, interactive placed within the traditional
architects including Sori structure withstood the installations, as well as a and institutional trajectories
Yanagi, Arata Isozaki, Bruno massive earthquake that meditation area for cultivating of the fine arts. It is also one
Mathsson, and Kenzo shook the Tohoku region in one’s inner creativity with of the very few art centers
Tange. Factory tours are also 2011, and became a symbol those honed senses. around the world operated
available, though reservations for Japanese engineering by a support facility for
are required. ingenuity that doesn't 100 Shimokawara-machi, Iwadeyama, individuals with disabilities.
compromise great design. Osaki-shi, Miyagi 989-6434
1-3-10 Midarekawa, Tendo-shi, +81-229-72-5588 4873 Ara-machi, Inawashiro-machi,
Yamagata 994-8601 2-1 Kasuga-machi, Aoba-ku, Miyagi | Osaki Yama-gun, Fukushima 969-3122
+81-23-653-3121 Sendai-shi, Miyagi 980-0821 Museum +81-242-62-3454
Yamagata | Tendo +81-22-713-3171 Fukushima | Inawashiro
Showroom Miyagi | Sendai Art center
Interactive Library
TOKYO & KANTO

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Fuji TV building by Tange Associates


+1 TOD’S building in Omotesando by Toyo Ito

Visitors to a mega-city like “I concluded that spaciousness


Tokyo are always fascinated is not so much a matter of
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how buildings fit into the how far you put walls apart.

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most unlikely places, with More important is to provoke
THE IN F IN IT Y O F a high rise structure next to new and unfamiliar feelings,”
L I MI T E D S PACE a three-story family home says Makoto Tanijiri, one
next to a designer shop or a of Japan’s successful new-
shrine. Just walk along the generation architects, whose
Omotesando shopping avenue practice suppose design
with its narrow side streets, office has branches in Tokyo
and you understand why and Hiroshima. “As if you
space management is one of suddenly see a pink or purple
the biggest challenges for any apple falling from a tree!”
contemporary architect in That’s why Tanijiri designs
Japan. How can they design rooms boxed into each other
an appealing structure on to form a maze of surprises
a plot of land confined to a where floor levels and ceilings
small corner, and how can tiny often overlap.
rooms project largeness and
individuality? Does nature A case in point is SunnyHills
even have a chance within by Kengo Kuma (spot #22),
Tokyo International Forum by Raphael Viñoly these confines? which looks like a giant fabric
story Keyaki building slightly is slightly lower and the
higher, seem only centimeters restroom under the stairway.
apart as if hugging each other. Copper partially covers
“Competing for attention, they walls to reflect the garden
nevertheless had to project outside.” Multifunctionality
synergy,” says Dan. “Otherwise is an effective architectural
both would look awkward.” tool, as also demonstrated in
Dan’s solution was to let the entrance area, where the
multiple leaf-shaped columns wardrobe serves as a piano
form a funnel that breaks room. As for their source of
out from the “L” towards the inspiration, Tsukamoto and
sky. It is space management Kaijima refer to a meditation
at its best: practical and room on top of their studio
compromising, vying for building not far from Split
attention, and breaking out of Machiya, a room just big
“Garden and House” in Tokyo by Ryue Nishizawa
norms. Summed up, it defines enough for a person to sit

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of chopsticks, or perhaps a history would have it that, half Tokyo’s sophistication. down and absorb the never-
wooden porcupine. The rooms a century later, Kuma himself ending horizon of Tokyo and
inside appear bigger with is giving shape to the stadium Yoshiharu Tsukamoto and its endless possibilities of
the help of elaborate design for the Tokyo 2020 Olympic Momoyo Kaijima represented limited space. -rh
patterns and witty surprises and Paralympic Games. Japan at the 2010 Venice
like the microscopic garden Biennale under the name Atelier
sneaking into the entrance And then there’s the Bow-Wow. Their architecture is
area. Translucent paper walls flagship store of Italian shoe often compared to M.C. Escher’s
give way to alcoves where one manufacturer Tod’s, with its drawings, where everything
can catch a view of Tokyo’s skin of criss-crossed concrete starts and nothing ends – always
skyline: packed but spacious. braces that mimic the zelkova in the service of space illusion.
Kuma decided to become trees lining Omotesando. In Tokyo’s Shinjuku district, the
an architect in 1964 at age Toyo Ito built it on an L-shaped couple built a family residence
10. “The way Kenzo Tange lot in 2004, and nine years that’s only three meters wide, “isI concluded that spaciousness
not so much a matter of how
had designed the gymnasium later Norihiko Dan faced the called Split Machiya (split
far you put walls apart. More
for the Tokyo Olympics, and challenge of squeezing another townhouse). “For every
important is to provoke new and
how he explained it on TV, flagship store into the space design detail, we took the
convinced me to choose his inside Ito’s “L” – the Hugo building’s three-meter-width
unfamiliar feelings. ”
profession,” remembers the Boss Keyaki Building. The two into consideration,” explains - Makoto Tanijiri
famous architect. The irony of structures, with the eight- Tsukamoto. “The furniture
20 21

RAWR!!!
CURATED POP CULTURE CREATIVITY
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K AWAI I MONSTE R C AFÉ

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TOKYO CULTUART BY BEAMS | トーキョー カルチャート BY ビームス

After window shopping in Omotesando with its domestic


Located on the 4th floor of the new beams japan flagship store
designers and international flagship stores, relax in a fantasy
in Shinjuku, tokyo cultuart by beams hand-picks an ever
world reminiscent of Alice in Wonderland. Kawaii Monster Café
changing selection of art, fashion, and design products from famous
features manga-inspired waitresses, food in psychedelic colors,
and underground Japanese artists and designers. Their collection
and an oversized décor of glowing mushrooms and blinking
includes everything from skate decks to vinyl figures, prints, books,
cakes for just the right degree of fashionable weirdness.
graphic t-shirts, and even refurbished Japanese boomboxes from
the 70s and 80s. It’s a great place to find contemporary art for
YM square building 4F, 4-31-10 Jingumae, Shibuya-ku, Tokyo 150-0001
everyday life, and discover something to take home that you won’t
+81-3-5413-6142
find anywhere else.
Tokyo | Harajuku
Café
BEAMS JAPAN B1F-5F, 3-32-6, Shinjuku, Shinjuku-ku, Tokyo 160-0022
+81-3-5368-7300
Tokyo | Shinjuku
Shop

Kawaii Monster Café


22

PRE-MOD ERN CONTEMP ORARY


A S I A N A RT I N A 23 JA PA NES E ART 24
MOD ERN TAK A I S HI I G ALLERY
JAPANESE CONTEXT | タカ・イシイギャラリー
NEZU MUSEUM | 根津美術館

Nezu Museum was founded This leading contemporary


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A LL THE C OZ IN ESS O F A P I NE AP P L E

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in 1941 to conserve and exhibit gallery specializes in
S UNN YH I L LS AT M IN AM I -AOYA M A | サニーヒルズ南青山店 the collection of pre-modern photography and has a branch
Japanese and East Asian art that in New York. Taka Ishii lists
From the outside it looks like a giant nest made of randomly piled businessman Nezu Kaichiro dozens of Japanese as well
up wooden planks, and absent any signage or even a hint of what's (1860-1940) had accumulated. as foreign artists – among
inside. Positioned along a side street leading to the Prada flagship Among the 7,400 items are them Daido Moriyama,
store on Omotesando, one might assume that it has something paintings, ceramics, and Martin Kippenberger, and
to do with fashion, but of all things it's a sweets shop owned by sculptures. Architect Kengo controversial photographer
Taiwanese pineapple cake maker SunnyHills. Architect Kengo Kuma designed and supervised Nobuyoshi Araki. Publications
Kuma playfully recreated the rough surface of a pineapple, and the re-building of the museum and editions add to the variety
inside the stylish environment visitors can enjoy pineapple cake in 2009, which carries his of the gallery program.
and tea while they take in the atmosphere. signature style of vertical lines.
The adjacent Japanese garden is 3F, 6-5-24 Roppongi, Minato-ku, Tokyo
3-10-20 Minami-Aoyama, Minato-ku, Tokyo 107-0062 one of the most exquisite in Tokyo. 106-0032
+81-3-3408-7778 +81-3-6434-7010
Tokyo | Omotesando 6-5-1 Minami-aoyama, Minato-ku, Tokyo | Roppongi
Shop Tokyo 107-0062 Gallery
+81-3-3400-2536
Tokyo | Omotesando
SunnyHills interior
Garden, Museum Nobuyoshi Araki
27

JAPAN’S LEADING
ARC HITEC T UR E 25 ARC H I T EC T U R E &
D E SI GN M EC CA 26
G ALLERY 21_21 DESIGN SIGHT
TOTO G A L L ERY · M A
| TOTO ギャラリー・間 The establishment of this space
was realized by the Japanese
Among the founding members design world’s dream team: K UROK AWA’S STATE OF THE A RT MUS EUM

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of toto gallery·ma in 1985 initiated by Issey Miyake, THE NATI ONAL ART CE NTE R , TOKYO | 国 立 新美術館
were design luminaries such as architecture by Tadao Ando,
Tadao Ando and Ikko Tanaka. and currently co-directed by The National Art Center, Tokyo, opened in 2007, boasting one
Since then every Japanese Miyake, Taku Satoh, and Naoto of the largest exhibition spaces in Japan. It doesn’t have its
architect that has left a footprint Fukasawa. 21_21 design sight own permanent collection, but is capable of organizing a wide
on the international stage opened in 2007 on the grounds variety of art exhibitions, in addition to artist associations
started out here, or was rewarded of Tokyo Midtown with the and competition exhibitions unique to Japan. The building,
with an exhibition. toto goal of making a space to hold completed in 2007, is the last museum designed by the architect,
provides two floor spaces and an programs based on everyday Kisho Kurokawa.
open terrace for experimental things. The three directors take
presentations that sometimes turns organizing and curating 7-22-2 Roppongi, Minato-ku, Tokyo 106-8558
even involve constructing exhibitions of their specialties, +81-3-5777-8600
sections of a building. including architecture, craft, Tokyo | Roppongi
product design, and more. Museum
TOTO Nogizaka Building 3F, 1-24-3
Minami-aoyama, Minato-ku, Tokyo 9-7-6 Akasaka, Minato-ku, Tokyo
107-0062 107-0052
+81-3-3402-1010 +81-3-3475-2121 Kisho Kurokawa

Tokyo | Nogizaka Tokyo | Roppongi


Gallery Exhibition space
28

ART HISTORIES 101


THE NATI ONAL
29 LUX URY RYOKAN
I N THE CI T Y
30
MUS E UM OF HOS HI NOYA
MODE RN ART, TOKYO TOKYO | 星のや東京
| 東京国立近代美術館
Hoshino Resorts has a history
The momat, Japan’s first of managing luxury hotels
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national art museum, boasts in numerous vacation spots
one of Japan’s largest art around the country. This is
Louise Bourgeois’ “Maman” and Mori Tower
collections of more than 13,000 its first ever branch in Tokyo,
works, and presents modern much less an urban setting.
A RT IN T H E S K Y Japanese art from the 20th Centrally located near the
MORI ART MUSEUM | 森美術館 century to the present. The Imperial Palace, the hotel
museum’s “A Room With a offers a traditional Japanese
Mori Art Museum, a contemporary art museum founded by View” relaxation space offers a inn setting with modern
real estate developer Minoru Mori in 2003, has come to be must-see view of the Imperial touches and impeccable
an important and indispensable presence in the art scene Palace grounds, and the Craft hospitality. It also offers
today. Known for organizing solo and group exhibitions of Gallery is housed in the former natural hot spring onsen on
incomparable quality and scale, the museum also actively works Imperial Guard headquarters, the 17th floor (yes, with a
with young emerging artists, stages discourses on historical an Important Cultural Property. view), perfect for unwinding
movements, and publishes handsome catalogs. after a long day out in the city.
3-1 Kitanomaru-koen, Chiyoda-ku, Tokyo
Roppongi Hills Mori Tower 53F, 6-10-1 Roppongi, Minato-ku, Tokyo 106-6150 102-8322 1-9-1 Otemachi, Chiyoda-ku, Tokyo
+81-3-5777-8600 +81-3-5777-8600 100-0004
Tokyo | Roppongi Tokyo | Takebashi +81-50-3786-1144
Museum Museum Tokyo | Otemachi
Hotel
31

HOUS E OF FOR A LL MING EI


TOMORROW 32 ENTHUS I A STS 33
JI Y U G AKUE N THE JAPAN
MYONI CHI K AN FOL K CR AF TS
| 自 由 学 園 明日 館 MUS E UM | 日本民藝館
ME IJI RESTO R AT IO N
MITSUBISHI ICHIGOKAN MUSEUM, TOKYO | 三菱一号館美術館 Jiyu Gakuen Myonichikan Tucked away in a quiet

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was built in 1921 as the main residential neighborhood is


Located in the center of a bustling business district, Mitsubishi building of a private all- a museum with a traditional
Ichigokan Museum, Tokyo offers an escape from the rush girls’ school established wood and stone structure,
of city life. The building opened in 2010 within Marunouchi by publishers Motoko and dedicated to the folk art
Brick Square, surrounded by offices, shops, and restaurants. Yoshikazu Hani. Designed movement Mingei. It was
The complex is a reconstruction of Mitsubishi’s previous by American architect initiated in the 1930s by thinkers
home, first built in 1894 by Josiah Conder and in use until Frank Lloyd Wright, his and artists Soetsu Yanagi (who
1964. Programming at the museum reflects the period of prairie-style architecture is coined the word "mingei"),
modernization undertaken by Japan during the 19th century, implemented here to create Shoji Hamada, and Kanjiro
and holds exhibitions themed around the era. The museum’s a warm, domestic learning Kawai (spot #65). The museum
permanent collection is home to works by Redon, Toulouse- environment with basic strives to preserve and research
Lautrec, and many other turn of the century Western artists. materials of wood and plaster, traditional forms of arts and
large windows, and low, crafts particularly those found in
2-6-2 Marunouchi, Chiyoda-ku, Tokyo 100-0005 approachable structure. various parts of Japan and in Asia.
+81-3-5777-8600
Tokyo | Marunouchi 2-31-3 Nishiikebukuro, Toshima-ku, 4-3-33 Komaba, Meguro-ku, Tokyo
Museum Tokyo 171-0021 153-0041
+81-3-3971-7535 +81-3-3467-4527
Tokyo | Ikebukuro Tokyo | Komaba
Event space Museum
34

I NTOX I CATI NG WESTERN ART


VIEW OF THE CITY 35 I N JA PA N 36
THE PEAK BAR THE NATIONAL MUSEUM
| ピーク バー OF WESTERN ART, TOKYO
Mandarake Nakano Store Henya
| 国立西洋美術館
OTAK U HAV EN There are many locations
NAK AN O BROADWAY | 中 野ブロードウェイ around Tokyo where one can Situated at the main entrance
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gaze at the city in its twilight of Ueno Park, the National
Nakano Broadway is where the real anime geeks hang out in Tokyo and night-time glory, and The Museum of Western Art is a
now. With Akihabara’s otaku scene exhibiting mass cultural Peak Bar is one of the best. symbol of French-Japanese
tendencies, this shabby shopping arcade/mall has become Tokyo’s Situated on the 41st floor of the cultural relations. The museum
character culture mecca. Manga? Check. Anime? Check. Kaiju? Park Hyatt Tokyo in Shinjuku exhibits works from the
Double-check. Whether it’s a record store devoted to progressive (also home to the famed Matsukata Collection as well
German and Japanese music, vintage and indie bookshops, or New York Bar from Lost in as works created from the
Tokyo’s tallest soft serve ice cream cones, you’ll find it all next to Translation), guests are invited Renaissance through the early
everything from fortune tellers to a Takashi Murakami gallery. to walk through a bamboo 20th century. In July 2016, 17
Only a responsible, sensible adult would skip an hours-long trek grove to get to this view, works by Le Corbusier, including
through Nakano Broadway and a coffee or drink at Bar Zingaro. unhindered by construction the nmwa Main Building were
cranes or other buildings. designated by unesco as World
5-52-15 Nakano, Nakano-ku, Tokyo 164-0001 Heritage Sites.
+81-3-3388-7004 Park Hyatt Tokyo 41F,
Tokyo | Nakano 3-7-1-2 Nishi-shinjuku, Shinjuku-ku, 7-7 Ueno-koen, Taito-ku, Tokyo 110-
Mall Tokyo 163-1055 0007
+81-3-5323-3461 +81-3-5777-8600
Tokyo | Shinjuku Tokyo | Ueno
Bar Museum
37 38

TRE ASUR ES F RO M T H E 7T H C E NT U RY PU TTI NG FUN I N S CI ENCE


TOKYO N AT IO N AL M US E U M , T H E G A L LE RY O F H O RY UJI NATI ONAL MUS E UM OF NATURE AND S CI ENC E
| 国立科学博物館
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TRE ASU RES | 東京国立博 物 館 法 隆 寺 宝 物 館

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The dramatic approach to The Gallery of Horyuji Treasures nmns is the nation’s only state-administered comprehensive
foreshadows the equally dramatic use of space and lighting science museum, as well as the largest, with over 4.4 million
that awaits inside the spacious foyer, halls, and galleries that specimens in its collection. Established in 1877, the main activities
give an otherworldly experience to visitors. Designed by Yoshio of the institution are to research, collect and preserve, and educate
Taniguchi and opened in 1999, the museum houses over 300 through exhibits and programs, with a goal to deepen the public’s
valuable pieces dating from the 7th to the 8th century that were appreciation for science. Over 10,000 items are on permanent
gifted from the Horyuji Temple in Nara to the imperial family exhibition in the two main buildings (Japan Gallery and Global
in 1878, and then transferred to the museum after World War II. Gallery), in addition to a special temporary exhibition. The
Boasting state-of-the-art conservation technology, the museum museum also contains “Theater 360”, featuring spatial, audio,
also has a digital archive featuring the entire collection. and visual presentations on themes such as space, dinosaurs,
and evolution.
13-9 Ueno Park, Taito-ku, Tokyo 110-8712
+81-3-5777-8600 7-20 Ueno Park, Taito-ku, Tokyo 110-8718
Tokyo | Ueno +81-3-5777-8600
Museum Tokyo | Ueno
Museum
39 40

Shinro Ohtake, “Retinamnesia Filtration Shed”, 2014, at Yokohama Triennale 2014

GLOBA L A RT D I S COURS E
YOKOHAMA TRI E NNAL E 2 0 1 7 | ヨコハマトリエンナーレ 2017

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A RT IN T H E PO RT C IT Y Since its inauguration in 2001, the Yokohama Triennale has become


YOKOH AM A M USEUM O F A RT | 横 浜 美 術 館 a staple destination in the international art exhibition circuit. It's
not an exaggeration to say that of all the art exhibitions in Japan,
The Kenzo Tange-designed Yokohama Museum of Art opened in Yokohama does its best at addressing contemporary global issues
1989 in one of the pavilions built for the Yokohama Expo that had while attempting to contextualize the Japanese art scene within
taken place earlier that year. The Tange structure stands immense, the discourse. The 6th installment takes place from August 4
and the Grand Gallery entrance hall is particularly cavernous to November 5, 2017, with the theme “Islands, Constellations &
and overwhelming in scale. The museum is home to a large Galapagos”. The main venues are Yokohama Museum of Art by
collection of Japanese and Western artworks from the 19th century Kenzo Tange and Yokohama Red Brick Warehouse No.1, which will
up to present day. It also has a strong photography collection be linked together by shuttle bus service.
which upholds the city’s reputation as one the birthplaces of
photography in Japan. Yokohama Museum of Art / Yokohama Red Brick Warehouse No. 1
+81-45-663-7232
3-4-1 Minatomirai, Nishi-ku, Yokohama-shi, Kanagawa 220-0012 Kanagawa | Yokohama
+81-45-221-0300 Event
Kanagawa | Yokohama
Museum
U LT R A-P R EC I SI O N
SAYA M A FO R E ST 42
CH A PE L
| 狭山の森 礼拝堂

Sayama Forest Chapel by


architect Hiroshi Nakamura
is part of the Sayama Lakeside
ART U N DER Cemetery. Ultra-precision
N AT U RA L LIG H T 41 construction technology was
TH E H AKO N E O P EN - used to create a frame that
AIR MUS EUM doubles as the building’s
| 彫 刻の森美術館 surface, and the altar was
positioned so worshippers
#42 - Sayama Forest Chapel
Hakone has more to offer than can face the forest where,
just hot springs, and the unique during morning services, the
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Open-Air Museum takes typical sun lights up the surrounding winds, and hot summers, as long as we don’t forget to contemplate

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art viewing out of the box and trees. Pillars join at the top how they have always been part of our existence. Doing so provides
places it under the open sky. It to form a “sasu” (truss-like) the ultimate feeling of comfort.” Nakamura’s unique sense to
is filled with monumental art frame, and the roof was wed his structures with nature is a concept that was also observed
by modern to contemporary thatched with sand-cast by Wallpaper magazine, whose editors honored the 42-year-
artists such as Rodin, Calder, aluminum tiles handcrafted old innovator with their prestigious Design Award in 2015. For
Moore, Hepworth, Okamoto, by local artisans. “Creating a Nakamura, the link to nature is wood. “When we touch it, we can feel
Niki de Saint Phalle, and comfort zone or the feeling its grooves and this reminds us of our own skin, the pattern of our
Vangi. Some of the collection, of comfort does not mean we fingerprints. Wood creates a constant feedback-loop between us and
including Brancusi’s Kiss have to exclude the harshness a natural environment that we run danger of cutting off completely
sculpture, Giacometti bronzes, of nature,” explains Nakamura. from our city lives.” No wonder that Nakamura created the first
and Picasso’s ceramics, are “Of course we should protect 3D computer program that helps protect roots and branches when
housed indoors. ourselves from storms, cold houses are built between trees. It can simulate and predict the growth
of the plant, as well as the swaying of branches during typhoons, and
1121 Ninotaira, Hakone-machi, also suggests how to best place foundations to protect roots.
Ashigarashimo-gun, Kanagawa
250-0493 2050 Kamiyamaguchi, Tokorozawa-shi, Saitama 359-1153
+81-460-82-1161 +81-4-2922-4411
Kanagawa | Hakone Saitama | Tokorozawa
Hiroshi Nakamura
Museum Chapel
43

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T HE C IT Y ’S SYM B O L
ART TOW ER M I TO | 水戸 芸 術 館

Art Tower Mito, a multi-art complex designed by Arata Isozaki


consisting of a theatre, a concert hall, and a contemporary art
museum, was opened in 1990 as a means of revitalizing the area.
Each of the three major facilities has an active programming to
promote its respective field. The museum is widely known for its
exhibitions with subject matter unconventional to the white cube
environment, such as graffiti/street art, fashion, and young up-
and-coming artists from Asia.

1-6-8 Goken-cho, Mito-shi, Ibaraki 310-0063


+81-29-227-8111
Ibaraki | Mito
Museum

Architect Arata Isozaki at Art Tower Mito


#43 - Art Tower Mito
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CHUBU

#56 - Yoshijima Heritage House


44 45
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SPEED ART IN G A RT FOR A LL S E A S ONS

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GE N BI SHI N K AN S EN | 現 美 新 幹 線 ECHI GO -TS UMARI SATOYAMA MUS E UM OF
CONTE MP OR ARY ART / KI NARE
The new Genbi Shikansen is the “fastest museum” yet conceived. | 越 後 妻 有 里 山 現 代 美 術 館 [キナーレ]
Running close to 210 km/h down Japan Railway’s Joetsu
Shinkansen line, it allows the passengers to relax in an art- Architect Hiroshi Hara (Kyoto Station, Sapporo Dome) decided on
clad environment during their 54 minute ride between Echigo- pure geometric shapes, exposed concrete, and lavish use of glass to
Yuzawa and Niigata stations. Eight contemporary artists were give the museum a quiet appearance. “Rooms are boxed inside each
tapped to decorate the seven cars with their artwork, ranging other, a traditional form in Japanese architecture found in sacred
from photography (Mika Ninagawa), paintings (Kentaro Kobuke), places such as temples and shrines,” explains Hara. “In summer,
fabric (Nao Matsumoto), video work (Brian Alfred) and, perhaps cultivate the fields – in winter, cultivate the mind” is an old Japanese
most befittingly, a plastic train rail installation (Paramodel). In saying and the leading theme for the museum. It organizes festivals
addition, the train is equipped with a nursery for children, and a and outdoor shows in summer, and enriches the exhibition programs
café that offers local Niigata snacks and coffee. inside with lectures during cold seasons. 200 permanent art works
are scattered outdoors in the region.
Niigata Station to Echigo-Yuzawa Station
Nigata | Niigata / Echigoyuzawa 6 Hon-cho, Tokamachi-shi, Niigata 948-0003
Transportation +81-25-761-7767
Niigata | Tokamachi
Museum Hiroshi Hara
46 47

AWARD -WINN IN G DESIGNER HOTEL BAUHAUS EX PERI MENT


SATOYAMA JUJO | 里山十帖 KYU-HYUGA-BETTEI AT ATAMI HY U G A V I L L A
| 旧日向別邸 ブルーノ・タウト「熱海の家」

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Satoyama Jujo is a hot spring resort with a 150 year old wood
building that creative director Toru Iwasa meticulously restored. Rihei Hyuga was a successful businessman who made his riches
High-tech utilities are hidden behind handcrafted wood, and supplying match factories in Japan with phosphorus. When
chairs by legendary designers such as Finn Juhl and Arne Hyuga wanted a room extension for ping-pong tables, he met one
Jacobsen enrich the lobby. Iwasa’s other passion is to gently of the most important city planners, designers, and architectural
educate his guests how to live a healthier and more balanced life. thinkers of his time: Bruno Taut. The German polymath had found
“That’s why I grow my own rice, promote local farm produce, himself out of work when fleeing Nazi Germany in 1933, and
and develop my own recipes,” he says. “Less cooked, less salty, Hyuga’s job offer was a gift from heaven. The centerpiece of Taut’s
but with more flavor.” annex became a ballroom that he equipped with light bulbs on
a string used by Japanese fishermen to lure fish. The ping-pong
1209-6 Osawa, Minami-uonuma-shi, Niigata 949-6361 tables never had a chance.
+81-25-783-6777
Niigata | Minami-uonuma 8-37 Kasuga-cho, Atami-shi, Shizuoka 413-0005
Hotel, Shop +81-557-81-2747
Shizuoka | Atami
Museum
48 49
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PHOTO GRA PHY A ND PE ACEFUL G A RD ENS

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I ZU P HOTO MUS E UM
RO O M S W IT H N O H V IE W
ASAB A | あさば Izu Photo Museum opened in 2009 to explore works of photography
and film. Since then, it has organized a wide range of exhibitions
Half a millennium ago, Yakuro Yukitada Asaba founded Shuzenji addressing the many issues surrounding photography and time-
temple. At the gate he positioned monks as guards and housed based media. The interior space and garden were designed by
them in a lodge which still exists today, albeit as one of Japan’s artist Hiroshi Sugimoto, and the details that belie this can be
most exquisite hot spring resorts, featuring a small lake, a café readily spotted: crystal glass, shadow and light, and tearoom-like
salon with minimalist art, Harry Bertoia chairs, and a Noh theater tranquility. Plan your trip to include visits to the other museums at
from the 19th century. A seventh generation Asaba family member the Clematis no Oka art complex, such as Bernard Buffet Museum,
assembled the theater with parts from an old shrine that he Vangi Sculpture Garden Museum, and Yasushi Inoue Literary
transported all the way from Tokyo, and today the gold masks of Museum. Be sure not to miss the restaurants either.
the actors reflect in the surrounding waters while guests enjoy the
Noh performances directly from their rooms. 347-1 Clematis no Oka, Higashino, Nagaizumi-cho, Shizuoka 411-0931
+81-55-989-8780
3450-1 Shuzenji, Izu-shi, Shizuoka 410-2416 Shizuoka | Nagaizumi
+81-558-72-7000 Museum
Shizuoka | Shuzenji
Hotel
52

A TE AH O US E TO ART I N T H E AL P S
MED ITAT E 50 JA PA N A L PS A RT 51
TAKASUGI-AN | 高過庵 F E ST I VA L 2017
| 北アルプス国際芸術祭 2017
With its archaic simplicity, FA BRI CS FROM A FA RMHOUS E
Takasugi-an (too-high-house) The first Japan Alps Art MARU FACTORY

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is one of Terunobu Fujimori’s Festival is slated to take place


best known creations. It is a from June 4 to July 30, 2017, In the mountainous region of Nagano, textile designer and artist
teahouse on stilts that stands with the promising theme Tadashi Maruyama brought a 300-year-old farmhouse back
on a property belonging to “Shinano-Omachi Food and to life and turned it into “Maru Factory”. With a keen eye for
his family, now turned into an Art Corridor”. The organizers details, he restored the wood structures, the original furniture,
outdoor museum. Fujimori have tapped curator Fram and even the fireplace in the kitchen floor. The traditional
has designed dozens of Kitagawa to take the directorial lifestyle of a bygone era inspires him when creating delicate
buildings in Japan with the position and to put together kimono fabrics with a minimalist touch, and the coloring and
same playfulness as Takasugi- an exhibition with artworks the sewing are all done by hand.
an, yet doesn’t consider and projects that reflect the
himself an architect; rather an history, culture, and nature 4762 Ookaotsu, Nagano-shi, Nagano 381-2703
architecture historian. found in and around Omachi +81-26-266-2890
City, located at the foothills of Nagano | Nagano
Jinchokan Moriya Historical Museum the Japan Alps. Shop
389-1 Miyagawa, Chino-shi, Nagano
391-0013 Across Omachi City
+81-266-73-7567 +81-261-22-0420
Nagano | Chino Nagano | Omachi
Teahouse Event
A MERCHANT ’S
STEEP YO URS EL F T I P P I NG P O I NT HOME 56
IN Z EN 53 S U Z U 2017: 54 YOS HI JI MA
D.T. SUZUKI O KU -NOTO HE RI TAGE HO USE
M USE U M | 鈴木大拙館 T R I E NNA LE | 吉島家住宅
| 奥能登国際芸術祭 2017 A RT OF I CE
Daisetz T. Suzuki (1870-1966) NAK AYA UKI CHI RO 55 The Yoshijima Heritage
was a Buddhist philosopher Located at the very tip of the MUS E UM OF S NOW House, a nationally designated
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who was crucial to the spread Noto Peninsula on the northern AND I CE Important Cultural Property,
of Zen teachings in the West. coast of Japan, the small city | 中谷宇吉郎雪の科学館 was built in 1907 by renowned
Opened in 2011, the architect of Suzu will be hosting its first traditional carpenter Isaburo
Yoshio Taniguchi designed the triennale. The festival plans Dr. Ukichiro Nakaya (1900- Nishida as a house and shop for
space to reflect the landscape to invite more than 40 artists 1962) is renowned for his a sake merchant (p.52). There are
in Kanazawa, as the museum and designers from around the research on snow, and for many architectural elements
is surrounded by stone walls world to make works in the being the first to create worth noting: the large central
and a reflective pond while set context of the city’s diverse and artificial snowflakes. The pillar around which beams and
against impressive plateaus. plentiful nature (designated museum, dedicated to the life pillars are structured to create
The museum is structured so as one of Globally Important and research of the physicist a lofty foyer, the high windows
that the visitor goes through Agricultural Heritage and science writer, and to that allow dramatic presence
stages of observing, learning, and Systems), as well as its current foster a deeper understanding of light and shadow, and the
contemplating about the ideas issue of depopulation, and of snow and ice, is housed in rich tones of wood from varied
and achievements of D.T. Suzuki. has incorporated an open call architecture by Arata Isozaki. polishing and use.
program as well.
3-4-20 Honda-machi, Kanazawa-shi, i-106 Ushiozu-machi, Kaga-shi, 1-51 Oshin-machi, Takayama-shi, Gifu
Ishikawa 920-0964 Across Suzu City Ishikawa 922-0411 506-0851
+81-76-221-8011 +81-768-82-7720 +81-761-75-3323 +81-577-32-0038
Ishikawa | Kanazawa Ishikawa | Suzu Ishikawa | Kaga Gifu | Takayama
Museum Event Museum House, Museum
ME RGING A RT & A RC HI T EC T U R E
57
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21ST CENTURY MUSEUM OF CONTEMPORARY ART,

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K ANA Z AWA | 金沢 2 1 世紀美 術 館

Designed by the Pritzker Prize winning architect team sanaa


(Kazuyo Sejima and Ryue Nishizawa), the 21st Century Museum of
Contemporary Art is centered in Kanazawa City and designed as
a park for people to gather and meet. The circular glass structure
allows accessibility from multiple directions, the starting point
for many of their creations are dozens of models. “After that, we
compare and think about more options,” says Sejima. “We repeat
this process several times. Somewhere along the way ideas evolve
that will shape the character of a building,” say the architects.

1-2-1 Hirosaka, Kanazawa-shi, Ishikawa 920-8509


+81-76-220-2800
Ishikawa | Kanazawa
Museum

#57 - 21st Century Museum of Contemporary Art, Kanazawa


58 59

BAC K TO E A RT H | M OSA I C T I L E M US E U M TA J I M I
| 多治見市モザイクタイルミュージアム

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A RT YOU CA N WA LK ON
The area around Tajimi City has the country’s largest production S I TE OF RE V E RS I B L E DE STI NY - YORO PAR K , GIF U
output of mosaic tiles, so it comes as no surprise that a museum | 養老公園 養老天命反転地
recently opened to house 10,000 artifacts relating to the history of
this building material, collected over the years by local volunteers. Outdoor sculpture museums usually don’t allow walking and
In Terunobu Fujimori they found the perfect designer and climbing on art works, but Site of Reversible Destiny is an exception.
historian to put the design of the building in the right context. Conceived by the late New York based artists, Shusaku Arakawa
“In ancient times the human dwelling in its most reduced form and Madeline Gins, it features caves, walls, hidden enclosures, and
has always been made of earth piled in the shape of a simple secret rooms. From the names that Arakawa and Gins bestowed
mound,” says Fujimori. “Earth is the source of tiles, and so I gave on the numerous and carefully designed environments you can
the museum the appearance of an ancient mound.” sense that they are conceptual artists: Exactitude Ridge, Critical
Resemblance House, or Kinesthetic Pass to name a few. The couple
2082-5 Kasahara-cho, Tajimi-shi, Gifu 507-0901 could not foresee that their work, built in 1995, would still be one of
+81-572-43-5101 the most popular art adventure spots in Japan, even 22 years later.
Gifu | Tajimi
Museum 1298-2 Takabayashi, Yoro-cho, Yoro-gun, Gifu 503-1267
+81-584-32-0501
Gifu | Yoro
Terunobu Fujimori inside “Flying Mud Boat” Park
KANSAI
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Kyoto Station by Hiroshi Hara
60

TRA NS LUCENT JAPANESE SWEETS


MOD ERNI T Y ON 61 IN MODERN WOOD 62
TEMPLE PL ATFORM AMBIENCE
KOU-AN GLASS TEA HOUSE TORAYA KYOTO ICHIJO SHOP
| ガラスの茶室 - 光庵 | 虎 屋 菓 寮 京 都一条店

The transparent structure, Toraya Confectionery was


Concept room by Shiho Ukaji

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constructed of thick glass founded in the early 16th century


panels, is a modern exploration in Kyoto, but with the move of
C O N C EPT A RT H OT EL of traditional Japanese the imperial family to Tokyo in
H OT E L AN T ERO O M KYOTO culture designed by Tokujin 1868, the headquarters of the
Yoshioka, whose creations company followed suit. Hiroshi
Just one stop south of Kyoto Station, this hotel has turned are displayed in permanent Naito, a specialist in intrinsic
its reception area into an exhibition space, the entrance exhibitions such as MoMA wood structures, redesigned
into a sculpture museum, and the comfortable guest rooms and the Musée d’Orsay. Glass the old store opposite the Kyoto
into galleries: A cherry blossom-wallpapered room by Mika Tea House currently stands Gyoen National Garden. His
Ninagawa, for instance, or a double-bed with a giant silver on the wooden observation expertise shows in the curved
wardrobe hook overhead by Kenji Yanobe. Even the smokers’ deck of Seiryuden Temple ceiling of tearoom, and his open
corner underwent a witty transformation reminiscent of Pop Art in the eastern mountains of design lets the garden optically
installations of the 1960s. Kyoto overlooking the ancient flow into the building.
imperial capital.
7 Aketa-cho, Higashi-kujo, Minami-ku, Kyoto-shi, Kyoto 601-8044 415 Hirohashidono-cho, Ichijo-kado,
+81-75-681-5656 28 Zushiokukacho-cho, Yamashina-ku, Karasuma-dori, Kamigyo-ku,
Kyoto | Kyoto Kyoto-shi, Kyoto 607-8456 Kyoto-shi, Kyoto 602-0911
Hotel +81-75-771-0390 +81-75-441-3111
Kyoto | Kyoto Kyoto | Kyoto
Teahouse Shop, Café
63

CONNECTI NG MI NGEI HOUSE


V I S UA L 64 K AWAI K ANJ IRO’S 65
HI STORI ES HO US E
THE NATI ONAL MUS E UM | 河 井 寬 次 郎記念館
H AVE N O F T R A N Q UIL I T Y OF MODE RN ART, KYOTO
SOM USH I | 素夢子 | 京都国立近代美術館 The potter Kanjiro Kawai

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(1890-1966) was one of the


Handmade curtains, old doors from condemned buildings, momak was established in central figures of the Mingei
flowers and plants – everything is a reflection of architect 1963 to link traditional arts and movement, which strove to
Katsumi Yasuda’s own warm and sensitive personality. Located crafts to 20th century ideas and bring out the aesthetic beauty
in Kyoto’s historic quarter for kimono makers, Somushi is a vision, and Japanese modern in everyday traditional crafts
haven of tranquility with a meditative quality. “When you design art movements to those of the and readily available nature.
something, it is vital to allow time to go over everything in detail,” West. The current building was The museum offers a thorough
explains Yasuda. “Here in Kyoto, the pace of life is just that bit designed by Fumihiko Maki, survey of Kawai’s wide range
slower, so there’s always time!” and today is host to many of works, including ceramics,
high-calibre exhibitions such calligraphy, woodwork,
73 Ogura-cho, Nishi-iru, Karasuma-sanjo, Nakagyo-ku, Kyoto-shi, Kyoto 604-8166 as the recent Mary Cassatt brasswork and furniture, as
+81-75-253-1456 and James McNeill Whistler well as his selection of artifacts
Kyoto | Kyoto retrospectives. from around the world.
Café
Okazaki Enshoji-cho, Sakyo-ku, 569 Kanei-cho, Gojozaka,
Kyoto-shi, Kyoto 606-8344 Higashiyama-ku, Kyoto-shi, Kyoto
+81-75-761-4111 605-0875
Kyoto | Kyoto +81-75-561-3585
Museum Kyoto | Kyoto
Katsumi Yasuda Museum
MOD E RN IST J E W E L B OX O F A KYOTO’S NATIONAL S C ULPTI N G
T E M PLE 66 G AL L E RY 67 TRE A S URES 68 TEX TI LES 69
HIGASHI HONGANJI K A H O G A LL E RY KYOTO NATI ONAL K ATAYAMA
| 真宗大谷派 東本願寺 | カホ・ギャラリー MUS E UM, HE I S E I BUNZABURO SHOTEN
CHI S HI NK AN | 片 山 文 三 郎商店
To commemorate the 500th One of Kyoto’s best-kept | 京都国立博物館 平成知新館
memorial of its priest Rennyo art secrets, this residential Shibori is the Japanese word for
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(1415–1499), the unifier of the gallery opened in 2012 near The Yoshio Taniguchi- techniques that shape textiles
Jodo Shinshu school, the temple the Tofukuji Temple grounds. designed Heisei Chishinkan and preserve their form, even
Higashi Honganji built a new Its commercial gallery wing of the Kyoto National when dyed. Kazuo Katayama is
visitor center. Designed by Shin programming has shown Museum opened in 2014. the third-generation president
Takamatsu, the structure is rare works by masters such as The new structure was built of this company that keeps
for its modern design, and was painter Toshio Arimoto and to house and exhibit its up the century-old tradition.
made three-stories deep in order sculptor Katsura Funakoshi, collection of over 12,500 “Shibori tie-dye’s concave-
to preserve the temple's historic as well as young contemporary artworks and treasures from convex characteristics achieve
scenery. The circular ceiling Japanese artists. The intimate over 12,000 years, many of unique and daring designs,”
symbolizes the sun and the and intense space creates for which are National Treasures he says. “Fashion and art
moon, and after dark the light an ideal location to immerse and Important Cultural fuse and thereby turn into
pouring from the underground oneself in art. Properties. a complete new form of
construction creates a crescent. wearable art.”
15-778-1 Hon-machi, 527 Chaya-cho, Higashiyama-ku,
Shichijyo-agaru, Karasuma-dori, Higashiyama-ku, Kyoto-shi, Kyoto Kyoto-shi, Kyoto 605-0931 221 Hashibenkei-cho, Takoyakushi-
Shimogyo-ku, Kyoto-shi, Kyoto 605-0981 +81-75-525-2473 dori, Karasuma Nishi-iru, Nakagyo-ku,
600-8505 +81-75-708-2670 Kyoto | Kyoto Kyoto-shi, Kyoto 604-8151
+81-75-371-9181 Kyoto | Kyoto Museum +81-75-221-2666
Kyoto | Kyoto Gallery Kyoto | Kyoto
Temple Shop, Museum
70 71

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GET SC H O O L ED IN M A NG A S CHO OL’S OU T


KYOTO IN T ERN AT I O N AL M A NG A M US E U M KYOTO ART CE NTE R | 京 都 芸 術センター
| 京都国際マンガミュージアム
In 2000, Kyoto Art Center opened as a means to bring artists
Kyoto International Manga Museum opened in 2006. Its main role of all genres, from traditional to contemporary, to work under
is to record, preserve, and present the long history of comic books the same roof. Established in a former elementary school, today
and cartoons, and how humor has helped humankind overcome the classrooms function as art studios, galleries, and workshop
some challenging times. The museum’s growing collection rooms. There are exhibitions and performances that are open to
currently consists of some 300,000 books and rare prints, and the public, as well as a library and a café. The wooden hallways of
many of the current titles can be picked up from the “manga wall” this Showa Era building make it a great place to wander.
to be read in any part of the former elementary school building,
and outside on the lawn. 546-2 Yamabushiyama-cho, Nakagyo-ku, Kyoto-shi, Kyoto 604-8156
+81-75-213-1000
Oike-agaru, Karasuma-dori, Kyoto | Kyoto
Nakagyo-ku, Kyoto-shi, Kyoto 604-0846 Cultural Center
+81-75-254-7414
Kyoto | Kyoto
Museum
72 73
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W H EN IN N A R A ... UND ERGROUND A RT MUS EUM
N AR A NAT IO N AL M US EU M | 奈 良 国 立 博 物 館 THE NATI ONAL MUS E UM OF ART, OSAK A | 国立国際美術館

The Western-style structure of the “Nara Buddhist Sculpture First established in 1977, the museum was relocated to its
Hall” is representative of the Meiji Era. The new wing, designed current space in 2004, and the César Pelli-designed building is a
by Junzo Yoshimura in 1972, houses one of the most important primarily underground structure. Visitors can only see the wing-
collections of Buddhist art in Japan. The museum frequently like arch structure protruding from the ground at first, and have
changes its permanent exhibition display of statues, sculptures, to descend to the basement floors for more. The museum offers
and scrolls, and offers the opportunity for Buddhist art lovers to stellar in-house exhibitions.
return frequently to its galleries.
4-2-55 Nakanoshima, Kita-ku, Osaka-shi, Osaka 530-0005
50 Noborioji-cho, Nara-shi, Nara 630-8213 +81-6-6447-4680
+81-50-5542-8600 Osaka | Osaka
Nara | Nara Museum
Museum
THE WORLD’S THE ULTIMATE SPA
S HA RPEST 74 GETAWAY 75
K NI V ES AQ UA× I GNIS
SAK AI CI T Y TR ADI TI ONAL | アクアイグニス
CR AF TS MUS E UM
| 堺伝統産業会館 Situated deep in the mountains
of Mie, this modern hot

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600 years ago, when Kyoto was spa complex is focused on


still the imperial capital, nearby providing the ultimate forms
Sakai City in Osaka was where of healing and dining for its
the best blades in the world guests. Aqua×Ignis consists
were forged. Even today, local of Kataoka Onsen and its
community blacksmiths and natural hot spring bath and
sharpeners work in pairs to spa facilities; restaurants run
keep up the tradition, and Sakai by three award-winning chefs
City Traditional Crafts Museum all using their own organically
explains the forging process. grown produce; and spacious
A great variety of knives are hotel rooms and villas. The
exhibited and available in the impeccable attention to detail
museum and shop for those will be a treat for both the body
interested in learning about and the mind.
this important craft.
4800-1 Komono, Komono-cho,
1-1-30 Zaimokucho-nishi, Sakai-ku Mie-gun, Mie 510-1233
Sakai-shi, Osaka 590-0941 +81-59-394-7733
Osaka | Sakai Mie | Komono
#74 - Blacksmith and sharpener in Sakai Museum, Shop Hotel
76 77
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FAIRY TALE ARCHITECTURE A RT S HA NGRI -L A
TANEYA CLUB HARIE AT L A COLLINA OMIHACHIMAN MIHO MUSEUM
| たねや クラブ ハリエ ラ コリーナ近 江 八 幡
This private museum was opened in 1997 to house close to 2,000
Since 1872, the Taneya Group has been producing sweets based pieces of art, from Ancient Greek to Roman, and Middle Eastern
on local agricultural products, recipes, and nature. Architect to Asian works. Located high in the mountains of Shigaraki,
Terunobu Fujimori designed the company headquarters “La 80% of the museum structure was built underground so as not
Collina”, and the giant facility includes restaurants and shops to hinder the natural landscape. The architectural marvel was
surrounded by rice fields. Grass grows on roofs and walls curve designed by I. M. Pei, who envisioned creating a “Shangri-La” for
like mushrooms, just like something out of a fairy tale. the museum’s collection.

615-1 Kitanosho-cho, 300 Tashiromomodani, Shigaraki-cho, Koka-shi, Shiga 529-1814


Omihachiman-shi, Shiga 523-0806 +81-748-82-3411
+81-748-33-6666 Shiga | Koka
Shiga | Omihachiman Museum
Shop
CHUGOKU
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Townhouse in Kurashiki covered with clay tile roofing
#79 - Shinshoji Zen Museum and Gardens
Z E N G AR D E NS
S H I NS H O J I Z E N 79
M US E U M A ND
G A R D E NS
| 神勝寺 禅と庭のミュージアム

With structures dating back


as early as the Kamakura
CYC LE IN . Period, the Shinshoji Zen
CYC LE O U T. 78 Museum and Gardens offers
ON OMICH I U2 a tranquil environment to
experience various practices
Situated in a small town facing of Zen Buddhism. Opened
the Seto Inland Sea, Onomichi in September 2016, the vast
U2 opened as a complex to grounds of the Shinsho
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suit the various needs of the Temple have much to offer:


avid modern cyclist. The hotel a reconstruction of the
has rooms equipped with bike teahouse designed by master
racks; the restaurant, bar and Sen no Rikyu, the temple
café menus were planned with office building by Terunobu
athletes in mind; and there Fujimori, and an art pavilion
is, of course, a shop with bike and installation work by
rental service. The complex Kohei Nawa | sandwich are
is in a renovated warehouse just a few of the architectural
built in 1943, with a minimal marvels to be found amongst
and warm interior designed by its strolling gardens.
architect Makoto Tanijiri.
91 Kamisanna, Numakuma-cho,
5-11 Nishigosho-cho, Onomichi-shi, Fukuyama-shi, Hiroshima 720-0401
Hiroshima 722-0037 +81-84-988-1111
+81-848-21-0550 Hiroshima | Fukuyama
Hiroshima | Onomichi Temple, Garden, Museum
Complex
#81 - “The Dry Landscape Garden”, Adachi Museum of Art
AWA R D W I NNI NG
GARDEN 81
A DACH I M US E U M
O F A RT | 足 立 美 術 館

The Adachi Museum of


Art was founded by local
businessman Zenko Adachi
N O GUCH I’S in 1970, in the hope of sharing
BRID GE S 80 his love for Japanese art and
PE AC E BRI D G E , gardens with the people
WE ST P E AC E BRID G E of Japan. Adachi himself
| 平和大橋、西平和大橋 assembled its traditional
arts and crafts collection,
Isamu Noguchi visited war- which is most famous for 120
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ravaged Hiroshima in 1950 quality works by the master


when Kenzo Tange invited him Taikan Yokoyama, and he was
to design bridges connecting also deeply involved in the
the river island that is home landscaping of the rolling
to the Hiroshima Peace gardens.
Memorial Park to the rest of
the city. The two bridges are 320 Furukawa-cho, Yasugi-shi,
both grandiose, organic forms Shimane 692-0064
looking upwards to the sky; the +81-854-28-7111
West Peace Bridge titled Yuku Shimane | Yasugi
(to depart) was designed to Museum
resemble the bow of a Japanese
ship, and the Peace Bridge or
Tsukuru (to build) symbolizes
the rising sun.

Hiroshima Peace Boulevard


Hiroshima | Hiroshima
Bridge
82

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Onsaka no ie in Kurashiki

GU ESTH O US E C LO S E TO guesthouses – like Onsaka originally constructed one takes 15 minutes to the center
T RAD ITI O N , M O DER N I N no Ie (house on Onsaka hundred years ago. Onsaka no of Kurashiki with its landmark
ST Y LE slope) – a great alternative Ie stands on massive granite townhouses covered by clay
ONSAK A N O I E | 御坂の家 to staying in a conventional blocks arranged like a castle tile roofing.
hotel room. Modern facilities fortification that bear witness
Traditional townhouses are and a contemporary design to a long history. Inside, 11-16 Hon-machi, Kurashiki-shi,
disappearing. To preserve blend into traditional interior, however, the atmosphere is Okayama 710-0054
this part of Japanese culture, make experiencing Japan light because of wood and +81-90-7999-6682
npo Kurashiki Machiya both comfortable and unique. paper walls and the high, Okayama | Kurashiki
Trust restores historical Some of Machiya Trust’s sloped ceiling with exposed Townhouse, Hotel
buildings and turns them into restored buildings were beams. From Onsaka no Ie it
83 84
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Inujima Seirensho Art Museum

BOOKS AND OTHER TR E A S U R E S PEOPLE LI V I NG WI TH A RT, A RT LI V I NG WIT H PEOPL E


MUSH I BUN KO | 蟲文庫 I NUJI MA | 犬 島

Miho Tanaka loves design, art, and music. Her store, Mushi Bunko Inujima is a remote island of Okayama in the Seto Inland Sea
second hand bookshop, is hidden away along a dreamy street of with a population of 50 people and average age of 70, now
Kurashiki. On display are rare books, postcards, photographs, coexisting with contemporary art and architecture. Of note is the
CDs, and art objects which she carefully selects. If you're looking museum by Hiroshi Sambuichi that houses works by Yukinori
for something out of the ordinary to bring back home, this is the Yanagi, and scattered across the island is the "Inujima Art House
place. Tanaka’s other love is moss, and her observations about this Project" with works by artists such as Kohei Nawa, Haruka Kojin,
fragile plant are published in books and magazines. and Olafur Eliasson.

11-20 Hon-machi, Kurashiki-shi, Okayama 710-0054 Inujima, Higashi-ku, Okayama-shi, Okayama 704-8153
+81-86-425-8693 Okayama | Inujima
Okayama | Kurashiki Island
Shop
SHIKOKU
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#90 - Toyo Ito Museum of Architecture, Imabari
85 86

HO M E FO R W IN D, L IG H T AND WAT E R
TE SH IM A ART M USEUM | 豊 島 美 術 館

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I NOK UMA-S A N’S LI FE & WORK


Teshima Art Museum is a concrete shell in the shape of a MARU G AME GE NI CHI RO -I NOKUMA MUS E U M OF
waterdrop. Two oval openings allow wind, sound, and light to CONTE MP OR ARY ART | 丸 亀 市 猪 熊 弦 一 郎 現代美術館
enter the space – a collaborative effort between architect Ryue
Nishizawa and artist Rei Naito (her installation “Matrix” is the Artist Genichiro Inokuma (1902-1993) is known for his paintings
only work on view). “It was a structural challenge,” explains and drawings of animals and people, depicted in bold lines and
Nishizawa. “A space that equals nine tennis courts, has no colors in a style that masterly fuses both the abstract and the
supporting columns, and is only 4.5 meters high would normally figurative. The museum celebrates the life and work of this artist.
collapse. The minimum is 10 to 15 meters, but then you lose Designed by Yoshio Taniguchi in conversation with Inokuma,
the visual impact!” Nishizawa’s solution was to have the static the facade of the building features a large mural by the artist
program rewritten for stability. that also plays as a backdrop to the outdoor sculptures and the
town square. The museum houses 20,000 pieces of work in its
607 Karato, Teshima, Tonosho-cho, Shozu-gun, Kagawa 761-4662 permanent collection and a vibrant exhibition program.
+81-879-68-3555
Kagawa | Teshima 80-1 Hama-machi, Marugame-shi, Kagawa 763-0022
Museum +81-877-24-7755
Kagawa | Marugame
Museum
Ryue Nishizawa
87 88

Marine station “Naoshima” by SANAA


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A RT ISL A N D H O P PIN G THE ST UD I O THAT NO GUCHI BUI LT
SE TO U C HI T RI EN N AL E | 瀬 戸 内 国 際 芸 術 祭 THE I SAMU NO GU CHI G ARDE N MUS E UM JAPAN
| イサム・ノグチ庭 園 美 術 館
Set against the scenic waters of the Seto Inland Sea, the Setouchi
Triennale first launched in 2010 to bring domestic and global Japanese-American sculptor Isamu Noguchi (1904-1988) first
awareness to the area and its issues of declining population. The visited Kagawa in 1956 on a trip to source material for a landscape
2016 edition took place on 12 islands and 2 ports from spring to commission from the unesco Headquarters in Paris. Taken by the
autumn, with site-specific works by 226 artists. Many of these scenic mountains and the isolation in which he could concentrate
are large-scale outdoor installations that remain even after the on his art-making, he founded a studio in the town, and divided
festival, and become a part of daily life for the island's inhabitants. his time between New York and Takamatsu until his death. The
museum can only be visited by booking a tour, which allows the
Islands in the Seto Inland Sea and the coastal cities of Takamatsu and Uno visitor to walk inside the artist’s studio (formerly a sake cellar)
+81-87-813-0853 with his final works just as he had left them, around his home, and
Kagawa | Setouchi up to the sculpture garden which the artist built himself.
Island, Event
3519 Mure, Mure-cho, Takamatsu-shi, Kagawa 761-0121
+81-87-870-1500
Kagawa | Takamatsu
Museum
89
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EAST MEETS WEST


KAGAWA PREFECTURAL GOVERNMENT OFFICE E AST WING
| 香川県庁舎

Completed in 1958, the East building was formerly the main hall
of the Kagawa Prefectural Government office building, designed
by Kenzo Tange, who incorporated many elements inspired by Le
Corbusier. Tange was introduced to the then-governor through
artist Genichiro Inokuma, which led to a collaboration of sorts,
with Inokuma creating vibrant tile murals installed in the lobby.

4-1-10 Bancho, Takamatsu-shi, Kagawa 760-8570


+81-87-831-1111
Kagawa | Takamatsu
Government office

#89 - Kagawa Prefectural Government Office East Wing


90 91

Toyo Ito
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PL ACE OF PILGRIMAGE FOR ITO FANS THE FE ATS OF THE FATHER OF JA PA NE SE BOTANY
TOYO ITO M USEUM O F A RCH I T ECT U R E , I M A B A R I THE KO CHI P RE FECTUR AL MAKI NO B OTAN IC AL G AR D EN
| 今治市伊東豊雄建築ミュージアム | 高知県立牧野植物園

Imabari is the hometown of Japan’s great postwar architect Kenzo First opened in 1958 to honor the achievements of Tomitaro
Tange, so when Pritzker Architecture Prize winning architect Toyo Makino (1862-1957), the “father of Japanese Botany” and a Kochi
Ito was offered the opportunity to build a museum there in his native, this botanical garden sprawls across six hectares on the
own name, he was hesitant out of modesty. The mayor, however, mountainside of Godaisan. Within are 3,000 species of plants,
convinced him, and now the town has two landmark structures many of which Makino himself studied, a conservatory (opened
that make up the Toyo Ito Museum of Architecture: Steel Hut for in 2010), an exhibition hall, shops, a café, and a restaurant open to
exhibitions and Silver Hut for workshops - both overlooking the the public. The garden also has a herbarium and a research center
Seto Inland Sea. with limited access to the public.

2418 Urado, Omishima-cho, Imabari-shi, Ehime 794-1308 4200-6 Godaisan, Kochi-shi, Kochi 781-8125
+81-897-74-7220 +81-88-882-2601
Ehime | Imabari Kochi | Kochi
Museum Garden
Kyushu National Museum

KYUSHU &
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OKINAWA

Aso volcano
Unsen volcano
+1 Unzen volcano

In the late 1960s, the American Our tour begins in Kagoshima,


artist Robert Smithson coined a city with 600,000 inhabitants

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the term “land art.” Works are and a picturesque bay facing
not simply placed outdoors, but Sakurajima – the “cherry
VO LCA N O created as part of nature and the blossom island” that is also an
WO RLD S landscape (spot #59). One of the active volcano. Around here,
proponents of this movement, the fruit hanging from the trees
James Turrell, even turned is wrapped in white paper to
an entire volcano in Arizona protect it, graves in cemeteries
into an art installation. Which have their own roofs, and
brings us to the southern island people carry umbrellas despite
of Kyushu with its 30 active and the sunshine, all in case it
inactive volcanoes. They are suddenly starts raining ash.
part of a fascinating landscape, And when it does, there’s a
where nature has created its own slight tingling on your skin as
version of land art that visitors if you were being bombarded
to Japan should not miss. It by tiny insects, and your lower
is the awareness of powerful arms are soon covered in grey
forces designing nature that powder the consistency of finely
is so inspiring when hiking ground pepper. It’s a bizarre
along crater rims, especially for sensation. Often the powdery
Manai Falls, Takachiho Gorge architects or artists. precipitation stops after a few
across the landscape, some
of them filled with turquoise
lakes. At Mt. Io, the sulfur
mountain, heat hits you in
the face, and stones crumble
underfoot to reveal their
Shelter at Aso crater rim
yellow innards. After that,
it’s back again to fragrant
meadows and woods, and washing machine half-mired
on across the water. To get in petrified volcanic dust. To
from Amakusa to the Unzen get a better view of Unzen you
volcano massif, the ferryboat had better take to the skies in
has to churn through wind a helicopter from Nagasaki.
Aso crater
and waves for 40 minutes, After 20 minutes, you can
pursued by gulls who dive- circumnavigate the awe-
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99+1 | 111
minutes, but if it doesn’t and comfortable reach. One bomb you to snatch potato inspiring volcano at an altitude
the rain comes, it’s like India example is Myuken Ishiharaso, chips from your outstretched of 2,000 meters.
ink dripping from the sky. which was partly created by hands. After mooring, it’s
Japan’s renowned interior another hour’s drive to Unzen, There’s also no ignoring Mt.
From there, the tour continues designer Takashi Sugimoto “the cloud mountain”. It’s Aso, Japan’s largest active
in the direction of Kirishima- of Super Potato. Here he currently rated as “safe”, but it volcano with a sizable, bowl-
Kinkowan National Park. playfully unites postmodern wasn’t always that way. shaped caldera that’s not
Where there are volcanoes in elements with traditional only estimated to be 380km²,
Japan, hot springs are rarely Japanese features – double An eruption around 200 years but is home to a population
far away, and with them glass walls, for example, filled ago sparked a chain of events of 50,000 living directly on
ryokan, traditional Japanese to the ceiling with colored which led to 15,000 deaths. top of it. The most popular of
inns - many with their own bottles. Some have walls made From another blast 26 years Aso’s peaks, Nakadake, can
spring water supply. And of stacked-up driftwood, or a ago, bizarre remnants stand be reached by cable car and
that’s another thing that sets polished granite rock weighing every few hundred meters looks like a barren moonscape,
volcano walkers apart from a ton; perfect for setting your like an outdoor installation with a crater rim lined with
ordinary mountain hikers: cocktail glass upon. of a sculpture park. This is concrete shelters in case of
after the rigors of the day, you where you’ll find roadside an unexpected eruption.
can take a leisurely soak in On to Kirishima-Kinkowan barriers wrapped around trees Together with the majestic
a sulfurous hot tub beneath National Park, which features like the curled lid of an open surroundings, they might as
the stars, sake bottle within dozens of craters scattered sardine can, or a light-blue well go for land art as well. -rh
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ART EXP ER IEN C E IN A SH O P P I NG M A L L G ATEWAY TO A S I A


M ITSUB I S H I ESTAT E ART I U M | 三菱地所アルティアム 92 F UKU OK A AS I AN ART MUS E UM 93
| 福 岡アジア美 術 館
mitsubishi estate artium is an art gallery on the 8th floor
of Inter Media Station (ims), a giant shopping mall in the heart Fukuoka Asian Art Museum is a unique institution which
of Fukuoka. The gallery has a genre-free approach to curation, focuses its collection and exhibition programming on modern
featuring a range of art in addition to photography, fashion, and contemporary Asian art. This museum opened its doors in
design, architecture, and film. Exhibitions generally run for a 1999, with hopes to elicit dialogues across Asian visual cultures.
month at a time and feature local artists, as well as those active in In addition to residency and public education programs,
Tokyo and internationally. the museum organizes the Fukuoka Asian Art Triennale, an
international contemporary art exhibition.
IMS 8F, 1-7-11 Tenjin, Chuo-ku, Fukuoka-shi, Fukuoka 810-0001
+81-92-733-2050 Riverain Center Building 7F & 8F,
Fukuoka | Fukuoka 3-1 Shimokawabata-machi, Hakata-ku, Fukuoka-shi, Fukuoka 812-0027
Gallery +81-92-263-1100
Fukuoka | Fukuoka
Museum
94 95

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JAPAN A N D A S IA LO CA L C ULT URE CENTER OF GLOBA L SCAL E


KY USH U N AT I O N AL M US E U M | 九 州 国 立 博 物 館 KY US HU GE I B UNK AN | 九 州 芸 文 館

Seeing and walking into the impressive structure is worth the This public multi-purpose town cultural center, designed by
slight hike from the station. Set against the mountains, the Kengo Kuma, was opened in 2013 to provide a flexible public space
exterior glass walls of the museum, designed by Kyushu native for the community to come and grow together. Today, it offers
Kiyonori Kikutake, mirror the surrounding trees and skies. The art, craft, and language classes in addition to music events and art
museum’s exhibition program strives to address the history and exhibitions. There are permanent works of art installed indoors
the relationship between Japan and its Asian neighbors. and outdoors.

4-7-2 Ishizaka, Dazaifu-shi, Fukuoka 818-0118 1131 Tsushima, Chikugo-shi, Fukuoka 833-0015
+81-92-918-2807 +81-942-52-6435
Fukuoka | Dazaifu Fukuoka | Chikugo
Museum Museum
96 97
99+1 | 116

99+1 | 117
Yayoi Kusama, “INFINITY MIRRORED ROOM — early spring rain 2002 — ”, 2002
SC E N IC C O EXIST EN C E
N AG ASAKI P REF EC T UR A L A RT M US E U M | 長 崎 県 美 術 館 MUS EUM FOR THE CI T Y A ND I TS PEOPLE
CONTE MP OR ARY ART MUS E UM, KUMAMOTO
Located at the edge of the Nagasaki Seaside Park, this Kengo Kuma | 熊本市現代美術館
and Nihon Sekkei-designed institution opened in 2005 with the
concept of a “breathing museum”: To inhale what surrounds, and Located in central Kumamoto, camk is one of the few
to coexist with the collective output of new ideas. The enormous contemporary art museums in Kyushu. Opened in 2002, its goal
yet elegant glass and stone structure is surrounded by a moat is to bring art closer to people’s lives, and to bring the community
connected to the sea, and is in visual harmony with the sky and closer through art. Today, it is actively engaged in providing
the nearby waters. events for the community, and functions as a community center
of sorts. Work by James Turrell is permanently installed amongst
2-1 Dejima-machi, Nagasaki-shi, Nagasaki 850-0862 the unique bookshelves designed by Marina Abramovic.
+81-95-833-2110
Nagasaki | Nagasaki 2-3 Kamitori-cho, Chuo-ku, Kumamoto-shi, Kumamoto 860-0845
Museum +81-96-278-7500
Kumamoto | Kumamoto
Museum
98 99

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ART AN D N AT UR E IN ITS F U L L E ST
KIR ISH IMA O P EN -AI R M US E U M | 鹿 児 島 県 霧 島アートの 森 OK I NAWA’S HI STORY I N A GUS UK U
OKI NAWA P RE FECTUR AL MUS E UM AND ART MUSEU M
Situated on a hillside 700 meters above sea level, the Kirishima | 沖縄県立博物館・美術館
Open-Air Museum is host to many site-specific sculptures and art
installations by contemporary Japanese and foreign artists. Iconic This museum complex in Naha has an expansive programming
works by Jonathan Borofsky, Dan Graham, Yayoi Kusama, and geared at preserving and researching its local history and culture.
Noboru Tsubaki are just a few of the works seen on the grounds. Artifacts embedded with unique Okinawan folklore and traditions
Its indoor space, designed by Kunihiko Hayakawa, houses many are on display, while the art museum elicits active dialogues
more sculptures by notable artists such as Anish Kapoor, Marisol, regarding Okinawa’s complicated modern history through
and Takashi Murakami. In addition to its impressive permanent exhibitions of contemporary works by local artists.
collection, the museum holds temporary exhibitions and events.
3-1-1 Omoro-machi, Naha-shi, Okinawa 900-0006
6340-220 Koba, Yusui-cho, Aira-gun, Kagoshima 899-6201 +81-98-941-8200
+81-995-74-5945 Okinawa | Naha
Kagoshima | Yusui-cho Museum
Museum

Yayoi Kusama
C O N T RI B U TO RS ACKNOWLED G EMENTS

99+1 JAPAN: Traveling A b out JN TO


thro ug h a r t , d esig n & Japan National Tourism Organization
a rchit e c t ure is a pocket (JNTO) is a government body
publication borne out of our love for whose aim is to promote Japan
integrating creative experiences with internationally as a leisure,
travel. The “+1” for any trip in Japan is conference, meeting, and event
the unexpected location that makes destination. Consisting of offices
the trip extra special, from a backstreet around the world, JNTO is the ultimate
bookstore to a mountain hike into resource for travel-related information
inspiring scenery. What’s your +1? on Japan.
RO L A N D H AG ENBERG IA N LY NA M
ED ITO R IN CH I EF, W R I T ER DESIGNER
Special thanks to everyone who www.jnto.go.jp
made this book happen, especially

acknowledgements
the museums, galleries, and other Publisher
contributors

spaces that provided support and Japan National Tourism Organization (JNTO)
encouragement. 4-4-1, Yotsuya, Shinjuku-ku, Tokyo, Japan

160-0004
We also send our thanks to:
Zenbon Tei and Ryo Ito for getting
this project moving forward;
Nao Arai, Mayu Otani, and everyone
R E N N A O KUBO M ICHA EL KEFERL at NAVITIME Japan for keeping
WR IT ER DIREC TOR
everything on track; Don Kennedy for
image editing; Jan Fiedler and
Marky Star for proofreading our work;
Keiko Sakabe and Yutaka Akahoshi for
coordinating locations.

All rights reserved. No part of this publication


may be reproduced or transmitted in any form
or by any means, electronic or mechanical,
Printed by Kousoku Printing Co.,Ltd. including photocopy or any storage and
retrieval system, without permission in writing
Published January 2017 from the publisher.

M I MMO CANG IANO BELC UO RE YOKO KITA KO G A


C R E AT IV E D IR ECTOR PROJEC T MANAGER
PH OTO C R E DI TS
KANSAI SHIKOKU
© Roland Hagenberg: cover, pp.3, 4, 6, 15, 17 Tokyo, installation view at Yokohama Triennale 2014. 60 Hotel Anteroom Kyoto 85 Teshima Art Museum
(bottom), 22, 24 #17, 26, 28, 29, 30, 31, 32, 33 Photo: TANAKA Yuichiro / Courtesy of Organizing 61 KOU-AN Glass Tea House 86 Marugame Genichiro-Inokuma
(bottom), 34 (bottom), 35 #24 (bottom), 37 (bottom), Committee for Yokohama Triennale 62 Toraya Kyoto Ichijo Shop Museum of Contemporary Art
38, 43 #35, 49, 50 (bottom), 55 (bottom), 57, 58 p.48 #42 - Hiroshi Nakamura & NAP
63 Somushi 87 Setouchi Triennale
(bottom), 61, 68, 72 (bottom), 74 #66, 80, 84, 90, 92, pp.50 top, 51 - Courtesy of Art Tower Mito
96 (bottom), 102, 104-105, 109, 110, 116 (bottom) p.55 - Hiroshi Hara + Atelier Φ, Echigo-Tsumari
64 The National Museum of Modern 88 Isamu Noguchi Garden Museum Japan
Satoyama Museum of Contemporary Art, KINARE / Art, Kyoto 89 Kagawa Prefectural Government
© Said Karlsson: pp.32, 33 (top), 34 (top) Photo by ANZA ï 65 Kawai Kanjiro's House Office East Wing
p.56 - © Satoyama Jujo 66 Higashi Honganji 90 Toyo Ito Museum of Architecture,
Cited: p.59 #49 - © Hiroshi Sugimoto / IZU PHOTO
67 Kaho Gallery Imabari
p.2 - Keiko Sakabe MUSEUM
p.8 #03 - Courtesy of MOERENUMA PARK p.62 #53 - Courtesy of D.T. Suzuki Museum 68 Kyoto National Museum, Heisei 91 The Kochi Prefectural Makino
p.8 #04 - Fujiko Nakaya, “FOGSCAPE #47412”, p.62 #54 - Naoki Ishikawa Chishinkan Botanical Garden
2014, installation view at Sapporo International Art pp.64, 65 - Osamu Watanabe / Courtesy of 21st 69 Katayama Bunzaburo Shoten KYUSHU & OKINAWA
Festival. Photo: Keizo Kioku / Courtesy of Sapporo Century Museum of Contemporary Art, Kanazawa +1 Volcano Worlds
70 Kyoto International Manga Museum
International Art Festival Executive Committee p.66 - © Akitsugu Kojima
71 Kyoto Art Center 92 MITSUBISHI ESTATE ARTIUM
p.9 - Ryuichi Sakamoto + Daito Manabe, “Sensing p.67 - © 1997 Estate of Madeline Gins
Streams - invisible, inaudible”, 2014, installation view p.70 #61 - Courtesy of Anteroom 72 Nara National Museum 93 Fukuoka Asian Art Museum
photo credits

at Sapporo International Art Festival 2014, Photo: p.71 #62 - Akiyoshi Fukuzawa 73 The National Museum of Art, Osaka 94 Kyushu National Museum
Keizo Kioku / Courtesy of Sapporo International Art p.72 top - © Katsumi Yasuda 74 Sakai City Traditional Crafts Museum 95 Kyushu Geibunkan
Festival Executive Committee p.73 #64 - Kunihiro Shikata
75 Aqua×Ignis 96 Nagasaki Prefectural Art Museum
p.10 - Shouya Grigg p.75 #68 - Toshiharu Kitajima
p.12 - Yoko Ono, “Wish Tree for Towada”, © Yoko Ono p.77 - Toshie Kusamoto 76 Taneya Club Harie at La Collina 97 Contemporary Art Museum, Kumamoto
All Rights Reserved p.82 - © La Collina Omihachiman 98 Kirishima Open-Air Museum
p.14 - Koichi Torimura p.86 #78 - Tetsuya Ito / Courtesy of DISCOVERLINK 77 Miho Museum 99 Okinawa Prefectural Museum and
p.16, 17 top - Courtesy of Atelier Tekuto Setouchi
Art Museum
p.18 #7 - Courtesy of Aomori Museum of Art p.87 - © SANDWICH
p.20 - Courtesy of Onagawa-cho p.89 - “The Dry Landscape Garden” / Courtesy of
CHUGOKU
p.23 #15 - Courtesy of Ken Domon Museum of Adachi Museum of Art 78 Onomichi u2
Photography p.93 - Daici Ano 79 Shinshoji Zen Museum and Gardens
p.24 #16 - Courtesy of Tendo Co.,Ltd pp.94-95 - © Toyo Ito Museum of Architecture 80 Peace Bridge, West Peace Bridge
p.25 #19 - Shin Suzuki p.96 - Noboru Morikawa TOHOKU
81 Adachi Museum of Art p12–25
p.35 #23 - © 藤塚光政 Fujitsuka Mitsumasa p.97 - Tadasu Yamamoto
p.35 #24 top - Taka Ishii Gallery p.98 - Marine station “Naoshima” by SANAA 82 Onsaka no Ie HOKKAIDO
CHUBU p04-11
p.36 #25 - Daici Ano p.99 - Courtesy of The Isamu Noguchi Garden 83 Mushi Bunko p52–p67
p.36 #26 - Masaya Yoshimura Museum Japan 84 Inujima KANSAI
p.39 #30 - Courtesy of Hoshinoya Tokyo pp.100, 101 - Courtesy of Kagawa Prefecture p68–83
p.43 #36 - © The National Museum of Western Art, pp.106, 107, 108 - Steven West CHUGOKU
p84–93
Tokyo p.112 - Courtesy of Kyushu National Museum
p.44 - Akira Sato p.115 - Yayoi Kusama, “INFINITY MIRRORED ROOM TOKYO & KANTO
p26–51
p.45 - Courtesy of National Museum of Nature and — early spring rain 2002 —”, 2002, Contemporary
KYUSHU
Science Art Museum, Kumamoto OKINAWA SHIKOKU
p.46 - Yasuyuki Kasagi p104–117 p94–103
p.47 - Shinro Ohtake, “Retinamnesia Filtration Shed”,
2014 © Shinro Ohtake, Courtesy of Take Ninagawa,
Get off the beaten path and onto a more creative trajectory
by planning your trip to Japan around art, design, and
architectural experiences. Featuring 99 unique locations
covering every region in the country, you’ll be able to
easily put a trip together or enhance your current plans.
Comments by architects and designers, and feature essays
by writer Roland Hagenberg provide additional insights.

HOKKAIDO
TO H O KU
TOK YO & K A N TO
CHUBU
K A N SA I
C H U GO KU
S H I KO KU
KY US H U & O K I N AWA

“We are all travelers. So, how shall we best traverse


the Japanese archipelago? Here’s the answer.”
- Hiroshi Hara, architect

“An indispensable guide to creative travel in Japan from some of


the most knowledgable experts on the subject.”
- Mark Dytham, architect

Find the full comprehensive guide and suggested itineraries at


art.japan.travel

Cover photo: Terunobu Fujimori’s Flying Mud Boat and Takasugi-an

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