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Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps

BERLIN
December 2009 - January 2010

Christmas
markets
Glühwein and gifts

Wall fall
The Stadtmuseum
exhibitions

N°42 - €1.75 “In Your Pocket: A cheeky, well-


berlin.inyourpocket.com
written series of guidebooks.”
The New York Times
CONTENTS 3

berlin.inyourpocket.com

Contents
www.plazahotel.de Berlin’s districts 5
Getting streetwise
www.restaurant-knese.de Arrival & Transport 6
Get your bearings on S, U and ICE
www.parken-am-kudamm.de Culture & Events 8
http://blog.plazahotel.de Roll up for theatre, show and cinema

Christmas in Berlin 17
Glühwein and Gifts

BERLIN PLAZA HOTEL Where to stay 20


Knesebeckstraße 63/Kurfürstendamm · 10719 Berlin From park bench to Park Grand

4EL  s&AX  


Tel.: 030/884 13-0 · Fax: 030/884 13-754 Restaurants in Mitte 27
Fine dining, food with a view, and more

Nightlife in Mitte
Ihre Privathotels in der City Berlins.
9OUR0RIVATEHOTELSINTHECITYOF"ERLIN From light drinking to debauchery
36

Take me to the Plaza® AM

Food & Drinks around town 38


Going out in Berlin’s happening ‘hoods

Family Fun 58
Soak your weary bones

What to see 59
Palaces, squares and museums

Cold war Berlin 66


Behind the Wall

Potsdam 67
Palaces and film history

Shopping 69
www.HotelAstoria.de Buy buy buy
www.HotelAstoria.de Directory 74
HTTPBLOGASTORIADE Maps & Index
Street register 76
Hotel Astoria Berlin Centre map 77-79
Fasanenstraße 2 · D-10623 Transport map 80-81
Hotel Astoria Berlin Berlin
Index 82
Tel. ++49(30) 3 12 40 67 · Fax ++49(30)
Fasanenstraße 2 · D-10623 3 12 50 27
Berlin AM

Tel. ++49(30) 3 12 40 67 · Fax ++49(30) 3 12 50 27 berlin.inyourpocket.com December 2009 - January 2010


4 FOREWORD BERLIN DISTRICTS 5

Lucky you – apart from summer, December is perhaps


the best time to visit Berlin, when some 60 different Greeting Berlin is four times the size of Paris, and even though the
city consolidated its 23 districts into 12 in 2001, you’re still Prenzlauer Berg (PB)
Christmas markets open around town in the weeks left with 23 self contained areas (Kieze) in which Berliners On a low hill northeast of Mitte, ‘Prenzl’ Berg’ is an old
before Christmas, selling crafts, gifts, food and the Since th e fall o f th e often find everything they need. Public transportation is working-class district in the former East Berlin that came
Berlin Wall around 20 far-reaching and effective though, and you’ll grow to love it through the war relatively unscathed. The best places to
famous cockle-warming hot glühwein that’ll keep you years ago, Berlin has
going in the cold for hours. as you shuttle between the four areas with the most sights: soak up the atmosphere are Kollwitzpl, Helmholzpl. and along
experienced breakneck Charlottenburg, Tiergarten, Mitte and Kreuzberg. Kastanienallee (all near U-Bahn Eberswalderstr.). Prenzlauer
change: its infrastructure Berg’s few attractions include the Vitra Design museum and a
Most markets close for Christmas itself, but just a was modernized from
few days later Berlin experiences one of the biggest the ground up, while Mitte (MI) 19th-century brewery complex that is now the Kulturbrauerei
culture centre. A good time to visit is Saturday when the eco-
New Year parties in the world, when a million people entire city districts were Since reunification, Mitte has rightly snatched back the title market is open on Kollwitzplatz, or Sunday when everyone
say goodbye to 2009 on the streets around the e i t h e r c re a te d fro m of most-visited district from Charlottenburg. On and off the sits outside being cool and eating breakfast all day.
Brandenburger Tor – a party to be remembered scratch or thoroughly boulevard Unter den Linden, whose trees Marlene Dietrich
remodeled. Moreover,
indeed. The loveliest and most popular markets this
season and the New Year street party details are
Berlin has become a
once extolled in song, are baroque and classical monuments
to Prussian culture. The proximity of state libraries, the State Further afield
capital not only in the Opera, Humboldt University, the old Arsenal (now the German Districts mostly known for their restaurant and nightlife
discussed on page 16. political sense, but culturally and intellectually as well. History Museum), Gendarmenmarkt, Museum Island, Berliner scene are Schöneberg (SB), the centre of gay Berlin, and
As a result, it is now considered one of the most exciting Dom, and the abandoned East German Parliament building Friedrichshain (FH), filled with creatively tattered and tattooed
After all that excess, January is a much quieter affair and diverse cities in all of Europe. make for more talk, less walk tours. The architecturally students. Berlin has green spots galore, and after Tiergarten
with less highlights – though we do want to point humbler area of Mitte is the Scheunenviertel, whose layout the most popular getaways are the Grunewald forest and lake
out the two shows concerning the Berlin Wall at the Berlin finds its positive image reflected in its tourist looks as if 17th-century planners got interrupted during a Wannsee, in the southwest district of Zehlendorf (ZD).
Stadtmuseum (see page 14), and the excellent Long industry statistics: more and more people are visiting game of pick-up sticks. It’s on these streets that the casually
Night of the Museums on Saturday 30 January, when our city to see its countless attractions for themselves. chic saunter from courtyard gallery to sidewalk café, pointing
over 60 museums open their doors and have special These include, for example, the ubiquitous traces of a
turbulent and emotional history and the city’s compelling
out directions to tourists seeking out the latest hotspots or Europe In Your Pocket
events till well past bedtime. traces of the Jewish community that lived here from the late
museums, which invite you to browse the world’s cultures. 17th-century until the mass deportations of the Nazi era.
The contemporary art scene, too, has long since found a
Whatever you do in Berlin this winter, let us know your home in Berlin, proof of which can be seen in the city’s
thought about this guide at berlin@inyourpocket.com. hundreds of galleries, many stellar collections – often Charlottenburg (CB)
Enjoy Berlin. exhibited in innovative settings – and, most recently, the If downtown to you means wide, traffic-filled streets,
new temporary art gallery in the heart of the city. crowds of shoppers, five-star hotels and tall buildings, then
Charlottenburg comes closest to fitting the bill in Berlin.
Cover story Great art can of course also be experienced in Berlin’s Much of what was here was bombed in the war and built
opera houses and its many renowned theaters. Its anew in the 1950s. The nexus of activity is the knot where
Berlin’s cud dliest Ch ristmas wide range of orchestras – including the Berliner Kufürstendamm, Joachimsthaler Str, Bahnhof Zoo and
m a r ke t t a ke s p l a c e a t t h e Philharmoniker, the Staatskapelle, the Deutsches Tauentzienstr. come together. Follow what becomes an
Gendarmenmarkt, Berlin’s most Symphonie Orchester, the Rundfunksinfonie Orchester, increasingly silken ribbon down Kurfürstendamm (Ku’damm)
elegant square, overlooked by and countless others – is unmatched in its quality and and the setting becomes more genteel where you can’t see the
the theatre and no less that two diversity. And let’s not forget Berlin’s exciting club scene buildings for the trees. Nearby but isolated from the hoi polloi is
identical towering cathedrals. Now and the many different restaurants, pubs, and bars Schloss Charlottenburg, the residence of King Friedrich I.
bordered by some of the city’s most that make the city the place to be for anyone looking for
exclusive hotels, the square is the cosmopolitan flair and the latest trends.
new centre of chique and the market In this spirit, I would like to wish you an eventful stay Tiergarten (TG)
obliges by offering high-quality in Germany’s capital city – Tiergarten is both a district and the name of the 255 hectare
products and entertainment. See welcome to Berlin! park that began as the Great Elector’s hunting grounds in
Sightseeing for more details. the 1600s and became increasingly more civilised with
landscaping in the 1800s. Traffic passes through it, doing a
dosey-doe around the Siegessäule (Victory Column). Slicing
though the park’s length is Str. des 17. Juni, which leads to the
Editorial Copyright notice Brandenburg Gate at the eastern end. Just south of it are the
Editor-in-Chief Jeroen van Marle Text and photos copyright In Your Pocket museums of the Kulturforum and Potsdamer Pl.
Editorial Contributors GmbH 2010. All rights reserved. No part
Wendy Wrangham, Christina Knight, of this publication may be reproduced
In Your Pocket GmbH
Jenny Pons, Michael Nevermann, in any form, except brief extracts for Kreuzberg (KB) It has been another great year for In Your Pocket.
Philippe Krueger, Alex Zuckrow the purpose of review, without written
Axel-Springer-Str. 39 Thanks to a large Turkish community and more hippies, We now publish a record 57 guides and mini-guides
Research Monika Kierewicz permission from the publisher and
10969 Berlin anarchists and alternative folks than you can shake a
Layout & Design Tomáš Haman copyright owner. The brand name In Your
didgeridoo at, Kreuzberg feels neither East nor West. It
across 22 European countries. We print more than
Tel: (+49)(0)30 27 90 79 81 Photos Ansgar Meemken (AM), Pocket is used under license from UAB
Fax: (+49)(0)30 24 04 73 50 was the black sheep of West Berlin, left alone in its far-off four million In Your Pockets annually. This year we
Jeroen van Marle (JvM) In Your Pocket (Vokieciu 10-15, Vilnius,
germany@inyourpocket.com Lithuania tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76). room to play loud music and draw on the walls (literally, it launched new guides in Maribor, Bled, Portoroz,
Maps Kartographie Eichner, Sarajevo, Banja Luka, Brasov, Lviv and Odesa.
www.inyourpocket.com kaeichner@online.de, www.ellomap.de was parked in a dead-end, cornered by The Wall). In 1987
Editor’s note social and economic frustration exploded into violence and Next year you can expect to see Venice, Vienna and
ISSN 1611-9037 Cover: © istockphoto.com
© In Your Pocket GmbH, a company
The editorial content of In Your Pocket vandalism during the traditionally political demonstrations Glasgow - amongst others - Pocketed.
Sales & Circulation guides is independent from paid-for of May Day. Every year since, the city prepares for a long
of UAB In Your Pocket advertising. Sponsored listings are
We welcome enquiries from anyone who would like to
Vokieciu 10-15 General Manager Stephan Krämer night of stone-throwing and burning automobiles. May 1st is take part in our Pocket Revolution, starting up an IYP.
clearly marked as such. We welcome all essentially Kreuzberg’s way of reliving its 15 minutes of fame.
Vilnius, Lithuania Production Manager Philippe Krueger readers‘ comments and suggestions. Send us an email to publisher@inyourpocket.com.
tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76 Accounting Martin Wollenhaupt We have made every effort to ensure
The rest of the days are marked by backgammon at the men’s
clubs, café-sitting on the Landwehrkanal, and ambling down We also want to find out how we can make our guides
Advertising Manager Philippe Krüger, the accuracy of the information at the
Printed by Druckteam GbR Berlin. Corina Alt, Thomas Sauer time of going to press and assume no the popular drags Oranienstr. and Bergmannstr. Two major better, so please take five minutes to complete our
Circulation: 20,000 copies bimonthly responsibility for changes and errors. museums, the House at Checkpoint Charlie and the Jewish online survey at inyourpocket.com/survey.
Museum, are planted in the staid parts of the district.

Berlin In Your Pocket berlin.inyourpocket.com berlin.inyourpocket.com December 2009 - January 2010


6 ARRIVAL & TRANSPORT
Public transport S-Bahn problems
Berlin’s integrated network of S-Bahn (Schnellbahn), U-Bahn
(Untererdische Bahn, underground), bus, and Straßenbahn Warning: due to technical and financial problems caused by
(tram, in eastern Berlin only) is run by the BVG (tel. 194 bad management (the responsible people have been fired),
49, www.bvg.de) and the system runs very smoothly, even many S-Bahn trains have been cancelled or are running on
though they confuse everyone by naming buses and trams a limited schedule. This situation may well last till the end of
the Metro network. If you remember the number (or colour) 2009 and till then it’s best to use the U-Bahn (underground
and end station of the U or S line you want to use, you’ll soon trains), buses and trams as much as possible.
be navigating the labyrinth-like stations like a local. Signs
display the destination of the train, and at U-Bahn stations,
display when the next train will arrive.
The same tickets serve all BVG services. Vending machines
at stations and on trams have instructions in English and
accept coins (and on platforms, banknotes too). At larger
stations there are S-Bahn information and sales counters.
On buses, the driver can sell you a ticket.
With a €2.10 Einzelticket (single ticket) you can travel
one-way, with transfers, within the AB zone. Buy a €1.30
Kurzstrecke (short distance) ticket if you want to travel
up to three S/U-Bahn stops, or up to six stops by bus or
tram. If you anticipate a lot of travelling, consider either the
Tageskarte (day card, valid until 03:00 the next morning;
€6.10) or seven-day pass (€26.20).
If you’re in a group of up to five people, you can buy a Kle-
ingruppenkarte (group day ticket, €15.90). The BVG, the Taxis
tourist office, and some hotels sell a variety of multiday cards Taxi drivers have a fine reputation in Berlin, and not only for
including the €21.50 Welcome Card, which grants one adult the splendid cream-coloured Mercedes they drive. Taxis
and three children three days of travel and the City Tour queue outside S- and U-Bahn stops, and can also be hailed
Card is good for unlimited travel in the AB zone for 48 hours from the street at the same rate. The special €3.50 Kurz-
(€15.90) or 72 hours (€20.90) or 5 days (€28.90), plus you strecke is a set fare for short trips (2km or 5 minutes), and
get various discounts. If you’re arriving in or leaving Berlin by can only be used in hailed cabs and if you mention it as soon
train and your ticket says Berlin Stadtbahn, you can travel as you board. Calling a taxi is an option as well; mention to
free on the elevated S-Bahn line between Charlottenburg and the operator if you want to pay by credit card, as not all taxis
Ostbahnhof on the day of arrival/departure. have card-reading equipment. By the way, Funk means radio.
Before boarding the S- or U-Bahn, always validate your
ticket by punching it in the machine near the end of the City Funk tel. 21 02 02
platform. On buses and trams, the machines are on board. Funk Taxi Berlin tel. 26 10 26
Public transport uses the honour system, and there are Spree Funk tel. 44 33 22
regular checks by plainclothes inspectors. If you are caught Würfel-Funk tel. 0800 222 22 55 (tollfree), tel. 0177-222
without a ticket (or with an unvalidated one) you’ll be fined 22 77 (for mobile phones)
€40 on the spot.
You can go play the night owl, as the nightime transport op-
tions are excellent and have smooth connections. All U-Bahn Airports
trains run every 15 minutes on weekend nights; on weekdays
buses marked N travel their routes every half hour. Also, all Berlin has two airports (online at www.berlin-airport.de).
tram and bus lines starting with M run every half hour at night.
Tegel (TXL), the main airport, is 7km northwest of the
Trains city centre. Behind the airport information desk in the
main hall are the BVG public transport ticket office
DB (Deutsche Bahn, German railways) runs ICE trains (high and the luggage office. Nearby are a post office and
speed), EC (EuroCity) and IC (InterCity). Seat reservations are ATMs. Tegel is well-connected to the city centre by bus;
sometimes obligatory; check before boarding. Tickets can the TXL JetExpressBus runs every 15-20 minutes
be purchased at the the DB Centres in the stations, or book between 05:00 and 23:30, and is the quickest con-
online in advance at DB’s fabulous online train timetable at nection to Hauptbahnhof station, Unter den Linden and
www.bahn.de. Alexanderplatz. Bus X9 (every 5-10 minutes from 04:50
Berlin’s huge new glass-sheathed Hauptbahnhof main to 23:00) gets you to Zoo Bahnhof in 20 minutes. Bus
station is where all regional and intercity trains stop. N°109 heads to S-Bahn station Charlottenburg and
The station has all the essentials; shopping mall, post N°128 to U-Bahn station Osloer Straße. Single €2.10
office, toilets and showers and the Infostore tourist tickets can be bought from machines outside or from
information centre. Zoo Bahnhof (Zoologischer Garten) the driver, and are valid for two hours. A taxi to the city
and Ostbahnhof (in Friedrichshain, 20 minutes away by centre will cost about €18.
S-Bahn from Zoo Bahnhof) have been reduced to regional
train stations. All three stations are connected by the Schönefeld airport (SXF) is 20km southeast of the city
main S-Bahn line, and some to the U-Bahn. Regional (RE) centre and mostly serves budget flights and holiday char-
trains along the elevated east-west track stop at Mitte’s ters. A shuttle brings you to the nearby S-Bahn/railway
Alexanderplatz and Friedrichstraße stations as well. If station. An Airport Express train from here reaches the
your ticket destination is ‘Berlin Stadtbahn’ you can use city centre in 30 minutes; the S-Bahn take about 40 min-
it to travel further on the elevated S-Bahn track between utes. Take bus X7 to U-Bahn station Rudow for Kreuzberg.
Charlottenburg and Ostbahnhof stations.

Berlin In Your Pocket berlin.inyourpocket.com


8 CULTURE & EVENTS CULTURE & EVENTS 9

With three opera houses, seven resident orchestras, doz- Residenz Orchestra plays well-known baroque-era works,
ens of variety and theatre companies and ticket prices to Ask the concierge with musicians in period costumes and playing by candlelight.
match all wallets, Berlin is truly a culture-lovers’ paradise. Guests can combine the concert with a tour of Charlottenburg
Here we present a selection of Berlin’s cultural highlights Berlin’s top hotels all have concierges that are there castle or a trip on the river Spree, and dinner amidst 500
that are suitable those who don’t speak German. Tickets to make the guest’s lives easier. They can inform you candles. Concerts up to 6 times weekly.QAdmission €29-65.
for theatre, concerts and other events can be purchased about current events, book tickets, make restaurant Dinner starts at 18:00, the concert at 20:30.
at the venues, the tourism offices as well as at one of reservations and hand out copies of Berlin In Your
many ticket kiosks (convenient ones are in Friedrichstraße Pocket, transport maps, and brochures. Concierges BLUE MAN GROUP E-4, Marlene Dietrich Pl. 4, MI,
and Alexanderplatz stations). Online bookings and pay- can be recognised by the crossed golden keys on the BLUEMAX Theatre, MPotsdamer Pl., tel. (+49)(0) 18
ments for most events can easily be done via the venue lapels of their jackets. 05 44 44 (€0.14/min), www.bluemangroup.de. The (quite
websites or www.btm.de. literally) Blue Man Group has been wowing audiences in the Hans-Peter Wodarz & Christian Lohse
US with a show that is a kaleidoscope, a whirlwind, a puzzle,
Opera & Classical music Friedrich Schinkel in 1821, it was destroyed in WWII and only
reopened as a concert hall in 1984. The Berliner Sinfonie-
psychedelic, and many more adjectives that people just haven’t
managed to sum up the visually and musically powerful show
Deutsche Oper B-3, Bismarckstr. 35, CB, MDeutsche Orchester (conductor Eliahu Inbal) plays at the venue. with. We’ll add creative, comedic and intelligent. Q Tue-Fri
Oper, tel. 343 84 01/0700 67 37 23 75 46, www. 20:00; Sat 18:00, 21:00; Sun 18:00. Tickets from €49. A
deutscheoperberlin.de. A functional, introvert 1960s build- Philharmonie E-4, Herbert-von-Karajan-Str. 1, TG,
ing houses the only opera stage available to West Berliners MPotsdamer Platz, tel. 25 48 89 99, www.berlin-phil- Friedrichstadtpalast F-3, Friedrichstr. 107, MI,
during the Wall era. Italian conductor Renato Palumbo is the harmonic.de. The crumpled-looking yellow modernist building MOranienburger Tor, tel. 23 26 23 26, www.friedrich- Europe`s most successful gourmet theatre
current music director. behind the chrome glitz of the Potsdamer Platz developments stadtpalast.de. No one does over-the-top better than the
was once just as revolutionary as its new neighbour. The excel- producers and long-legged dancers and acrobats of Fried-
Konzerthaus F-3, Gendarmenmarkt 2, MI, MStadt- lent Phil orchestra is directed by Liverpudlian Sir Simon Rattle. richstadtpalast. This venue normally puts on the glitziest,
mitte, tel. 20 30 90, www.konzerthaus.de. Together biggest revues in town. Q Tickets €17 - 61.
with the neighbouring Deutscher and Französischer Dom Staatsoper F/G-3, Unter den Linden 7, MI, MFranzösische
churches, the Konzerthaus forms Berlin’s most spectacu- Str, tel. 20 35 45 55, www.staatsoper-berlin.org. A grand Chamäleon G-2, Rosenthaler Straße 40/41 (Hacke-
lar architectural ensemble. Originally built as a theatre by building on Berlin’s grandest boulevard, with beautifully rebuilt sche Höfe), MI, MHackescher Markt, tel. 400 05 90,
interiors and an in-house confectionary. Daniel Barenboim has www.chamaeleonberlin.com. The Chamäleon offers
been named chief conductor for life of the award-winning Staats- high-class entertainment with a well-balanced blend of
Venue list Berlin kapelle orchestra, one of the oldest (1570) orchestras in the world. variety, music and theatre, intriguingly implemented through
outstanding artistry and fascinating stage design. In spite of
AD – Admiralspalast, Friedrichstrasse 101-102, tel.
(+49)(0)30 47 99 74 99, www.admiralspalast.de.
Shows the reformation modern vaudeville is currently undergoing, the
entertainment factor remains top priority, so that even the
AR – Arena, Eichenstr. 4, tel. (+49)(0)30 533 20 30, Admiralspalast F-3, Friedrichstrasse 101, MI, tel. 47 ‘variety-greenhorn’ gets his money worth. Q Shows at 20:00,
www.arena-berlin.de. 99 74 99, www.admiralspalast.de. Reopened to the public Sat 19:00 and 22:00, Sun 19:00 (17:00 from October). Closed
BD – Berliner Dom, Am Lustgarten, tel. (+49)(0)30 878 in 2006, the Admiralspalast was originally a bathhouse and Mon. Admission from €25; Fri, Sat from €29.
56 85, www.berliner-dom.de. club for Prussian soldiers to relax in. Rebuilt in 1911, it was
DG – Deutsche Guggenheim, Unter den Linden 13-15, famous in Berlin’s Roaring 20s for its cabaret, operetta house,
tel. (+49)(0)30 202 09 30, www.deutsche-bank-kunst. spa and brothel. Hitler cleaned up their acts in the 1930s, Palazzo nights
com/guggenheim. installing a private box so that he could watch his favourite
FP – Friedrichstadtpalast, Friedrichstr. 107, tel. (+49) operetta ‘The Merry Widow’, and in the 1940s the building Hans-Peter Wodarz, pioneer of entertained dining, returns
(0)30 23262326, www.friedrichstadtpalast.de. was spared war damage. Bertold Brecht used the theatre to Berlin for a third season of the Palazzo gourmet show.
HB – Hamburger Bahnhof Museum, Invalidenstr. 50-51, for his eyebrow-raising new theatre in the 1950s and 60s Accompanied by Christian Lohse, Berlin’s only two-star
tel. (+49)(0)30 39 78 34 11, www.hamburgerbahnhof.de. before the theatre went into decline. The complex has been chef, he creates a spectacular and unique gourmet menu,
HX – Huxley’s Neue Welt, Hasenheide 108-114, tel. restored (without the brothel) and is a new centre of nightlife. served in mirror tent at Berlin’s Humboldthafen. Between
(+49)(0)30 627 93 20. courses there’s a show extravaganza unlike any other in
KB – Kulturbrauerei, Knaackstr. 97, tel. (+49)(0)30 Berliner Residenz Concert B-3, Spandauer Damm Berlin, with entertainment by the finest artists, comedians,
44315151, www.kulturbrauerei.de. 22-24, Große Orangerie of Schloss Charlottenburg, tel. acrobats and musicians. Timo Wopp, one of the world’s
KH – Konzerthaus Berlin, Gendarmenmarkt, tel. (+49) 25 81 03 50, www.concerts-berlin.com. The Berliner fastest jugglers, will be in charge of the evening. Some
(0)30 20 30 90, www.konzerthaus.de. twenty years after the fall of the Wall, there just has to be
MB – Messe Berlin, Messedamm 22, tel. (+49)(0)30 an emphasis on Berlin as the metropolis of arts, cuisine
303 80, www.messe-berlin.de. Prinzessinnensaal and innovation. Palazzo is once again the place for gour-
mets and cuisine lovers from all over the world.
MG – Martin-Gropius-Bau, Niederkirchnerstr. 7, tel.
(+49)(0)30 25 48 60, www.gropiusbau.de. Wh ere on ce Prussian Palazzo, E-2, Humboldthafen, tel. (+49)(0)1805 38
MK – Museum für Kommunikation, Leipziger Str. 16, princesses lived there is 88 85 (€0,14/min), www.palazzo.org. Closed Mon.
tel. (+49)(0)30 20 29 40, www.museumsstiftung.de. now a complex of exclu-
NA – Neue Nationalgalerie, Potsdamer Straße 50, sive meeting and function
tel. (+49)(0)30 2662651, www.neue-nationalgalerie.de. rooms in the Opernpalais
OW – O2 World, Mühlenstraße 12-30, tel. (+49)(0)30 Unter den Linden. Tradi- Europe's most
20607080, www.o2world.de. tion and modern hospi- successful gourmet theatre
PG – Pergamonmuseum, Am Kupfergraben 5, tel. (+49) tality define the style,
(0)30 20905577, www.smb.spk-berlin.de. and make for a unique Show starts on November 13th, 2009
PH – Philharmonie, Herbert-von-Karajan-Str. 1, tel. (+49) event. Arrangements like Spiegelpalast Humboldthafen am Hauptbahnhof
(0)30 25 48 80, www.berliner-philharmoniker.de. “Operdinner” combined
SO – Staatsoper Unter den Linden, Unter den Linden with the gastronomical
7, tel. (+49)(0)30 20 35 40, www.staatsoper-berlin.de.
TD – Tempodrom, Möckernstr. 10, tel. (+49)(0)30 69
offer of the house are very
popular, and in the warmer months the event can spill 01805 - 388 883
(0.14 €/Min, calls from mobile telephones can cost more)
53 38 85, www.tempodrom.de. out onto the lovely Princesses Garden.
VD – Velodrom, S-Bahnhof Landsberger Allee, www.
velodrom.de.
Opernpalais, Unter den Linden 5, tel. 20 26 83,
info@opernpalais.de, www.opernpalais.de. www.palazzo.org
Berlin In Your Pocket berlin.inyourpocket.com berlin.inyourpocket.com December 2009 - January 2010
10 CULTURE & EVENTS CULTURE & EVENTS 11

Stars in Concert J-6, Sonnenallee 225 (Estrel Festival


Papagena Ticket Hotline Kennedys: Two days in Berlin Center), KB, MSonnenallee, tel. 68 31 68 31, www. BLUE MAN GROUP
stars-in-concert.de. Vegas meets Berlin in the huge Estrel
Berlin offers hundreds of entertainment possibilities The Kennedys museum
on any given day or night of the year. But the process presents a fascinating
hotel and convention centre, where the Stars in Concert
show features impressive performances of lookalike artists
DISCOVER THE WILD SIDE OF BERLIN
of getting tickets can be daunting for a foreigner who is new photo exhibition un- Elton John, Elvis, Tina Turner, Joe Cocker and Sting. Tickets
already in town, unfamiliar with internet booking options der the title ‘Two days are also available for combinations with dinner and/or a stay
or indeed unfamiliar with German language. And what in Berlin - images of a at the hotel. Q Shows at 20:30, Sat also at 17:30. Closed
about making a choice about where to go, and finding city’, with 50 images of Tue. Admission €16-45.
out if a show is suitable for non-German speakers? So, two important days in the
those interested in grand opera, classical concerts, city’s history: the visit of Tipi am Kanzleramt E-3, Große Querallee, TG,
musical shows, cabaret, theater, stadium pop concerts John F. Kennedy and the MBundestag, tel. (+49)(0)180 327 93 58 (€0,09/
or an intimate jazz or independent music gig at a small day the Wall fell. Both days min), www.tipi-das-zelt.de. Continuing a tradition that
club can call Papagena to find entertainment highlights are engraved on the minds started a century ago in Berlin, the Tipi team wine, dine and
to make their stay in Berlin unforgettable. of Berliners and people © Thomas Billhardt, entertain guests for an evening in their surprisingly elegant,
around the world, and the Silvester am year-round tent in Tiergarten park. Before the show starts,
Papagena can be contacted from Monday-Saturday often emotional photos by Brandenburger Tor, Berlin, gourmet food is served from their on-site kitchen. Then
09:00-20:00, Sundays/holidays 14:00-20:00 at tel. world-famous photogra- 1989 it’s over to the artists featured that night to entertain the
030 479 974 44 or via www.papagena-karten.de. phers offer new perspec- audience. Q Tickets €18.50-36.
tives on the fall of the Wall as a peaceful mass event. BLUE MAN GROUP is a spectacular show: pure fun, witty,
intelligent, unexpected – simply different! BLUE MAN
Until 31 January 2010. The Kennedys, Pariser Theatre & Comedy GROUP thrills and provokes with creativity, comedy and
Platz 4a, tel. (+49)(0)30 20 65 35 70, www. great music. An internationally unique mix of sweeping
English Theatre Berlin F-5, Fidicinstr. 40, KB, MPlatz concert atmosphere, high-class comedy and effects
thekennedys.de. Open 10:00-18:00. der Luftbrücke, tel. 693 56 92/691 12 11, www.etber- like you have never experienced before. First BLUE MAN
lin.de. Berlin residents, whether native English speakers or GROUP goes under your skin – and then never out of
not, come to this theatre for the edgy programming on the your head again. Unique in Europe it is staged in Berlin,
La Vie en Rose F-6, Tempelhof airport, MPlatz der little black box’s stage. The entrance is in the back courtyard. in BLUEMAX Theater Potsdamer Platz. An absolute
Luftbrücke, tel. 69 51 30 00, www.revuetheater.de. Q Admission €14/8. must for your Berlin visit. Entertainment for the whole
Apparently this is the only revue theater in the world that’s family - and naturally for guests from all over the world.
in an airport. La Vie en Rose has daily shows with magicians, Kookaburra G-2, Schönhauser Allee 184, PB, MRosa- You cannot describe BLUE MAN GROUP, you have to
acrobats, singers, can-can girls and is the only one in town Luxemburg-Pl., tel. (+49)(0)30 48 62 31 86, www. experience them!
to add a touch of eroticism. Q Shows at 21:00, Sun 20:00. comedyclub.de. Laughing matters at Berlin’s premier
Closed Mon. Admission €20-28, €45 including dinner, €65 comedy club, which has English-language stand-up comedy
w
ional Sho
including dinner and drinks. every Tuesday at 20:30 and Saturday at 23:45. Kim

IntGeerrmnaant and English


Eustace’s Comedy Night alternates with the Supernaturals
Madi-Zelt der Sinne (Madi - Tent of the Senses) experimental comedy show on Tuesdays, while the hilarious
B-1, Bernhard-Lichtenberg-Pl., corner Holzhauser Str., Laugh Olympics improvisation alternates with the Treason
MU Holzhauser Str., Tegel, tel. 01805/57 00 00, www. Show (Brighton) and others on Saturdays. QOpen 12:00 -
papagena Ticket Hotline
madi-ZeltderSinne.de. One way to cocoon yourself from
winter is to slip into this cozy, Moroccan royal-style tent in
north Berlin’s Tegel district. You’ll be whisked away to the
24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 02:00, Sun 11:00 - 24:00. Closed
Mon. Shows at 20:30. Admission €3-12.

Orient with a Middle Eastern four-course meal and 3.5-hour


show with belly dancers, story-tellers, musicians, acrobats,
and jugglers. The brainchild of a Palestinian Berlin resident, Sage: Welcome 2010!
the show makes the small audience (there is only room for
Hottest Ticket in Town! 45 guests in the tent) feel at home with rosewater, a welcome
drink, gleaming mint tea sets, and drags from a hookah water-
The wonderfully industrial Sage Restaurant along the
Spree river in Kreuzberg celebrates the arrival of 2010
pipe. Q Shows Thu - Sat at 19:30, doors open 18:00. (€75). with a gourmet 5-course dinner, fireworks a magic show
english spoken Palazzo E-2, Humboldthafen, MI, MHauptbahnhof, tel.
hosted by Magic Monty and a House-Elektro, Hip Hop
& Classics party (from 21:00) DJed by Vijay Chatterjee
(+49)(0)1805 38 88 85 (€0,14/min), www.palazzo. and Dört & Häzler. Tickets are €105, or €35 for just the
org. Not just any show, this is a three-and-a-half-hour dining party (€40 at the door).
and variety experience. Enjoy a multi-course gourmet meal
while you watch a varied programme of acrobats, jugglers,
comedians, musicians and magicians in a purpose-built
‘palace of mirrors’. The emphasis is on the visual effects, so
language is not a barrier. Q Closed Mon. Admission, includ-
ing food, €79-135.
BLUE MAN GROUP
Schiller Theater C-3, Bismarckstr. 110, CB, MErnst- Marlene Dietrich Pl.
Reuter-Pl., tel. 847 20 03 12/0180-557 00 00. Musicals 4, BLUEMAX Theatre,
animate the stage of this landmark theatre that originally Tel. (+49)(0) 18 05 44
opened in 1907 with the German poet and playwright Schil- 44 (€0.14/min), www.
ler’s The Robbers (1782). bluemangroup.de.
Shows: Tue-Fri 20:00;
Sat 18:00, 21:00; Sun
phone 030 - 479 974 44 www.inyourpocket.com Sage Restaurant , Köpenicker Str. 18-20, tel.
+49 (0)30 755 49 40 71, www.sage-restaurant.de.
18:00. Tickets from €49.

Berlin In Your Pocket berlin.inyourpocket.com berlin.inyourpocket.com December 2009 - January 2010


12 CULTURE & EVENTS CULTURE & EVENTS 13

Cinemas Classical music Cold War Cultures


6 Dec, 20:00 PH
Foreign film offerings in German cinemas are often Deutsches Symphonie-Orchester Berlin The exhibition “Art of Two Germanys - Cold War Cultures”,
dubbed, which is an irritation for non-German speakers Conductor: Tugan Sokhiev, Johannes Moser (Violoncello); on show at the Deutsches Historisches Museum from
but is a good gig for the voice-over artists. Look in local works by Alexander Borodin, Antonín Dvorák, Peter 3 October until 10 January 2010, focuses on art in East
listings magazines like Tip and Zitty, for subtitled films; Tchaikovsky and West Germany within the context of the Cold War.
these are marked in with OmU or OmengU (original ver- Divided into four periods of time and comprising some
sion with German/English subtitles) and OF or OV (original 8 Dec, 20:00 PH 300 artworks by 120 artists, it starts with the question of
version); DF means German version. CineStar has the Pierre-Laurent Aimard (Piano) continuity versus a new beginning in 1945. Then it shows
largest selection of non-dubbed films. works by Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart, George Benjamin, the controversies about the image of man in the 1950s
Karlheinz Stockhausen and Ludwig van Beethoven and the way artists dealt with the trauma of the past in
Arsenal E-4, Potsdamer Str. 2, KB, MPotsdamer the 1960s, before moving on to the art of the German
Pl., tel. 26 95 51 00, www.fdk-berlin.de. This little 9 Dec, 20:00 PH “economic miracle”, the dissident art of the GDR and the
art house cinema is in the basement beneath the Film Rundfunk-Sinfonieorchester Berlin archives of everyday life in photography.
Museum in the Sony Center. International films, some Conductor: Marek Janowski, Lise de la Salle (Piano); works
in English, some with English subtitles, are the normal by Claude Debussy, Camille Saint-Saens and César Franck Deutsches Historisches Museum, F-3
fare. Q Tickets €6. Unter den Linden 2, tel. (+49)(0)30 20 30 40
10-12 Dec, 20:00 PH www.dhm.de.
CineStar Original E-4, Potsdamer Str. 4 (Sony Berliner Philharmoniker, Rundfunkchor Berlin
Center), TG, MPotsdamer Pl., tel. 26 06 64 00, Conductor: Christian Thielemann; works by Johannes Brahms
www.cinestar.de. The biggest cinema in Germany is and Arnold Schönberg
loved by English-speakers and film purists for show-
ing movies in their original version: no dubbing, no 12 Dec, 20:00 PH
subtitles. With sleek ambience, eight screens, cocktail Das Sinfonie Orchester Berlin
bar, roomy seating (even love seats), this is where to Conductor: Karl-Heinz Bloemke; works by Felix Mendelssohn
catch the latest blockbuster. Being late is no problem, Bartholdy, Frédéric Chopin and Antonín Dvorak
as there are at least 30 minutes of previews and ads
(though they cut this shorter for late and very long 13 Dec, 20:00 PH
films). Q Tickets €7.50, Mon, Wed €6.50, Tue €4.50, Staatskapelle Berlin
Thu €5.50. Conductor: Michael Gielen; works by Gustav Mahler and
Anton Bruckner
Hackesche Höfe G-2, Rosenthaler Str. 40,
MI, MHackescher Markt, tel. 283 46 03, www. 15 Dec, 20:00 PH
hackesche-hoefe.org. Many foreign films play here, Deutsche Kammerphilharmonie Bremen

Lost in so speakers of languages other than German could


get by here as long as the films aren’t dubbed many
have German subtitles). You’ll have to climb three
Conductor: Paavo Järvi, Radu Lupu (Piano); works by Robert
Schumann
Jörg Immendorff, Café Deutschland I, 1977/78
Museum Ludwig Köln
flights of stairs to get here, but there’s a nice row of

Translation?
16 Dec, 20:00 BD
banquettes to catch your breath in. Q Tickets €7.50, German Brass © Jörg Immendorff estate
Mon €6, Tue €5. Works by Bach, Händel and Vivaldi
Conductor: Stefan Bevier; works by Arcangelo Corelli, Antonio
Highend 54 F-2, Oranienburger Str. 54, (Tache- 18 Dec, 20:00 KH Vivaldi, Johann Sebastian Bach et al.
Enjoy movies in the original les), MI, MOranienburger Tor, tel. 283 14 98. Rundfunk-Sinfonieorchester Berlin.
language versions! Welcome to Documentaries, anything by Jim Jarmusch or Goran Conductor: Marek Janowski; works by Mozart 29 Dec, 20:00 KH
Bregovic, and the occasional reprise of the Coen Neues Sinfonieorchester Berlin.
Germany’s largest variety of non- brother’s The Big Lebowski are standard fare in the 18-20 Dec, 20:00 PH Conductor: Rimma Sushanskaya; Sinfonie Nr. 9 d-Moll by
dubbed international movies. On intimate theater here. The modern couch seating is Berliner Philharmoniker, Atlanta Symphony Orchestra Ludwig van Beethoven
positively luxurious and quite a contrast to the rundown Chorus
8 screens inside the spectacular building itself. A cool bar is attached. Q Tickets €5-6, Conductor: Donald Runnicles, works by Sebastian Currier 29 & 30 Dec, 20:00 PH
Sony Center at Potsdamer Platz. Mon €4.50. and Johannes Brahms 31 Dec, 17:15
For showtimes and tickets go to Berliner Philharmoniker
IMAX 3D Sony Center E-4, Potsdamer Str. 4, 23 Dec, 20:00 PH Conductor: Sir Simon Rattle, Lang Lang (Piano); works by
www.cinestar.de (Sony Center), TG, MPotsdamer Pl., tel. 26 06 64 Festival Orchestra Berlin Sergej Rachmaninov and Peter Tchaikovsky
00, www.cinestar-imax.de. Wherever they take you,
the combination of towering IMAX screen and superb 31 Dec, 19:00 SO
cinematography is awe-inspiring. Films last 45 minutes,
German version only. Q Tickets €8.50, Sat, Sun €8.70,
Ellington Hotel events 1 Jan, 16:00
Staatskapelle Berlin
Tue €6.70. The groovy Ellington Hotel hosts various cultural events Conductor: Daniel Barenboim; Ludwig van Beethoven,
this winter, including Jazz brunches every Sunday at chef Sinfonie Nr. 9 d-Moll op. 125
Paris C-4, Kurfürstendamm 211, CB, MUhland- Carsten Obermayr’s Duke restaurant, several (German-
str., tel. 881 31 19, w w w.cinema-paris.de. The language) Crime Dinners where guests solve a murder 7 Jan, 20:00 PH
largest air mili tar y mission in histor y took place in between four courses, and a (German) lecture and a Deutsches Symphonie-Orchester Berlin
during peacetime in Berlin. The documentar y The dinner concert with the Comedian Harmonists on 13 Conductor: Herbert Blomstedt, Martin Helmchen (Piano);
Berlin Airlift shows how planes supplied ever y thing December at 18:00 (tickets from €85). On New Year’s works by Felix Mendelssohn Bartholdy and Anton Bruckner
2.5 million West Berliners needed for 11 months Eve, come to Ellington for a stylish exit from 2009 with
b et we en Jun e 1948 an d May 1949. In En glish JazzRadio and Djane Leslie (from 22:00, admission free). 8-10 Jan, 20:00 PH
ever y Saturday at 11:00. Q Tickets €8, Mon €5, Ellington Hotel, D-4, Nürnberger Str. 50-55, tel. Berliner Philharmoniker
U/S-Bahn to „Potsdamer Platz“, Busses 148, 200, M41
Tue, Wed €6. (+49)(0)30 68 31 50, www.ellington-hotel.com. Conductor: Tugan Sokhiev, Hélène Grimaud (Piano); works
by Heinz Holliger, Maurice Ravel and Sergej Rachmaninov

Berlin In Your Pocket berlin.inyourpocket.com berlin.inyourpocket.com December 2009 - January 2010


14 CULTURE & EVENTS CULTURE & EVENTS 15

12 Dec, 20:00 HX
Stadtmuseum: Speaking stones Doro (Rock) New Years’ Eve parties Yorckschlösschen
The city state of Berlin honours artist Konrad Knebel 17 Dec, 21:00 KB Dance like a Hollywood star at Dante’s glamourous New
with the Hannah Höch prize this year, and this exhibition Keimzeit (Rock) Years’ party. Admission includes a champagne cocktail
focuses on his paintings of the Berlin Wall. In addition and gourmet snacks, views of Berlin’s fireworks display at
to that, there are Berlin cityscapes over 30 years, and 18-21 Dec, 20:00 VD midnight and performances by DJs Scream and Deegree.
other topics. Knebel’s thematic focus and special light Rammstein (Rock) From 21:00, tickets €39 in pre-sale only.
and colour moods lend his paintings intensity and depth.
26 Dec, 20:00 PH
Until 7 Feb 2010. Ephraim-Palais, Stadtmuseum Axel Zwingenberger (Jazz)
Berlin , Poststr. 16, tel. 24 00 21 62, www.
stadtmuseum.de. Open 10:00-18:00, Wed 12:00-20:00, 3 Jan, 20:00 AD
Mon closed. Admission 5/3, free first Wed of the month. Manfred Krug (Jazz)

9 Jan, 20:00 OW
Depeche Mode (Pop) A Kreuzberg institution, the Yorckschlösschen (‘small
Yorck castle’) has been here for over a century, gather-
19 Jan, 20:00 TD ing fame in the 1970s as an artists’ watering hole and
Manowar (Rock) now a hub of local social life. Inside, there’s a busy bar
that features regular live music, with the emphasis on
27 Jan, 20:00 HX traditional jazz, swing and black rhythm’n’blues.
Air (Electronica) Concerts take place each Wednesday, Friday and Satur-
Dante, Hackeschen Markt, tel. 24 72 74 01, www. day from 21:00, with Sunday concerts beginning at 14:00.
29 Jan, 20:00 FP dante-silvesterparty.de, www.dante-club.de.
December
Michael Bolton (Soul) 2 Kat Baloun & the Alleycats, Berlin Blues
Elsewhere in town, the Irish Harp (Giesebrechtstr. 15,
www.harp-pub.de) has a big party starting at 20:00, with 3 Die definitive Berlin-Blues-Jam-Session
30 Jan, 20:00 HX 4 Louise Gold & das Quartz Trio, New Swing
Pothead (Rock) a band and raucous atmosphere, while Kilkenny’s party
(Am Zwirngraben 17-20, www.kilkenny-pub.de; also from 5 Two Against One, Hommage to Tom Waits
20:00, €5) has live music from 22:00. 6 Kuchenbeckers Sonntagsbraten, Boogie Woogie, 14:00
31 Jan, 20:00 TD 9 Los Reyes del K.O., Latin Blues
Chris Rea (Pop) 10 Berlin Jazz Jam Night
Exhibitions 11 Berlin Blues Band, Blues-Rock
12 Oloyé, Brasilian Rock
Until 13 December MK
Am Bremsenwerk, 1975, Konrad Knebel FallWallFall 61-89-09 Louis Braille and his alphabet for the blind
13 Acki Hoffmann & Friends, Swingin Jazz, 14:00
16 The Crazy Hambones, Blues
Documentation about the development of the embossed 17 Boogie Radio Band, Rhythm & Blues
Paintings, sculptures, performances, photography, film alphabet, celebrating the 200th birthday of the inventor.
amd more art forms by three generations of artists from 18 Muddy Feet, Swamp Bluesrock
14/16/17 Jan, 20:00 PH 19 Hattie St. John Quartett, Jazz & Blues
Berliner Philharmoniker two political systems are used to create a kaleidoscope Until 1 January 2010 PG
of perceptions and interpretations for the building of the 20 Sidney’s Blues, Hot Jazz, 14:00
Conductor: Bernard Haitink, Radu Lupu (Piano); Johannes Dionysos – Transformation and ecstasy 23 Kat Baloun & Friends, Blues
Brahms: Symphonie Nr. 3 F-Dur op. 90, Klavierkonzert Nr. Berlin Wall. The 300 works by 75 artists from East and The Greek god Dionysos is associated with dance, theatre
West include images of the 1982 setting fire to the Wall 24 Ernie’s X-mas Cocktail, Blues
1d-Moll op.15 and wine. Objects from the museum’s collection explain 30 The Mad Dawgs, Blues, Boogie & more
at Potsdamer Platz, and the photos made using the Dionysos’ modern day image and are supplemented by
first openings in the wall as pinhole camera objectives. 31 New Year’s Gala, 20:00
18 Jan, 20:00 PH artifacts from the Museum of Decorative Arts.
Deutsches Symphonie-Orchester Berlin Until 7 Feb 2010. Ephraim-Palais, Stadtmuseum January
Conductor: Peter Ruzicka, Elena Bashkirova (Piano); works by Berlin, Poststr. 16, tel. 24 00 21 62, www. Until 6 January 2010 DG 1 Los Reyes del K.O., Latin Blues, 22:00
Ludwig van Beethoven, Peter Ruzicka and Richard Strauss stadtmuseum.de. Open 10:00-18:00, Wed 12:00-20:00, Julie Mehretu: Grey Area 2 Lousie Gold & Die Herren Quartz, New Swing, 22:00
Mon closed. Admission 5/3, free first Wed of the month. Series of paintings about traces of old and new changes 3 Kuchenbeckers Sonntagsbraten, Hot Jazz Session, 14:00
21 Jan, 20:00 KH in the cityscape. 6 Marko Jovanovic & Blues Rudy, Blues
Konzerthausorchester Berlin. 7 Berlin Blues Session, Jam Night
Conductor: Lothar Zagrosek; works by Mahler, Dutilleux Until 10 January 2010 NA 8 Les Haferflocken Swingers, Crazy Jazz & more
and Brahms Collection Ulla and Heiner Pietzsch 9 Terrence Bowry Band, R&B and more
A first-time unification of many important surrealist works in 10 Mick’s Wachboard, Hot Jazz, 14:00
21 & 23 Jan, 20:00 PH Berlin, giving a good overview of the movement in the 20th 13 Felix Zöllner & The Dynacasters, Blues
Berliner Philharmoniker century. Works by André Breton, Salvador Dalí, René Magritte 14 Berlin Jazz Jam Night
Conductor: Bernard Haitink, Frank Peter Zimmermann (Violin); as well as by American abstract expressionists. 15 Chris Keys & Friends, R&B
works by Györgi Kurtág, Johannes Brahms and Béla Bartók 16 Mi Solar, Salsa Bigband
Until 17 January 2010 NA 17 Piano Schulze & Band, Boogie, 14:00
24 Jan, 20:00 KH Thomas Demand 20 Greg Denunzi Band, Blues
Staatskapelle Berlin. German artist Thomas Demand uses media messages in his 21 Django Lassi, Gypsy Swing
Conductor: Daniel Barenboim; works by Arnold Schönberg artworks, reconstructing models of places in press photos 22 Constance von Gertig Band, Soul & Blues
and taking photos of them. His current exhibition shows works 23 Roger Radatz Trio, Jazz + R&B
about recent German history, such as the fall of the Berlin Wall. 24 Sidney’s Blues, Hot Jazz, 14:00
Concerts 27 Tom Blacksmith & Band, R&B
7 Dec, 20:00 PH Until 17 January 2010 MG 28 Phill Edwards Soulband, Soul + R&B
Giora Feidmann, Gershwin Quartett (Klezmer) Istanbul Modern Berlin 29 Rudi Neuwirth Band, Jazz
In an attempt to show Istanbul’s artistic variety, this exhibition 30 Mike Russell Band, Soul + Jazz
11 Dec, 19:00 AR Mauerblicke I, 1989, Marcus Kaiser portrays the local art scene from the 19th century to modern 31 Sidetrack, Blues’n’Roots, 14:00
Motörhead (Rock) times with showcase works of art.

Berlin In Your Pocket berlin.inyourpocket.com berlin.inyourpocket.com December 2009 - January 2010


16 CULTURE & EVENTS CHRISTMAS IN BERLIN 17

30 January 2010 Berlin's many outdoor Weihnachtsmärkte (Christmas


Long Night of the Museums Football markets) bustle with both tourists and locals. There's music, Christmas at the Rote Rathaus
Dozens of Berlin museums stay open till well after midnight food, drinks and great gift shopping, as the markets offer
and put on special exhibitions and events. German football is still in deep shock following the tragic mainly handicrafts and decorations such as the popular
Various locations death of national team goalkeeper Robert Enke in Novem- wooden trinkets from the Erzgebirge mountains. Then
ber. Enke, who played his club football with Hannover, there are also huge fruitcakes (Stöllen) and nutcrackers
Until 14 February 2010 HB committed suicide by throwing himself in front of a train on (Nussknacker), scarves, hats, and gloves of richly coloured
Art is super! November 10th. He had been suffering from depression felt. Wrap up warm and stay tanked up on the Glühwein,
A new presentation from the modern art museum’s rich since 2003. His daughter, Lara, died aged two in 2006 hot mulled red wine, sold at all markets in souvenir mugs.
collection, with works by Joseph Beuys, Anselm Kiefer, Cy of a rare heart condition, and he struggled to cope with
Twombly, Nam June Paik, Martin Kippenberger et al. the loss. Germany cancelled a match against Chile as a Berlin has nearly 60 Christmas markets for you to enjoy.
mark of respect, and because many of the national team’s The most picturesque ones are on Gendarmenmarkt (until
Until 14 March MG players were unable to get over their grief in time to play. A 31 Dec, Sun-Thu 11:00-22:00, Fri-Sat 11:00-23:00, New
F.C. Gundlach – photography memorial service to Enke was held at Hannover’s stadium Years Eve until 01:00), the Nostalgischer Weihnachtsmarkt
A c o m p r e h e n s i ve r e s t r o s p e c t i ve o f G u n d l a c h’s on November 15th, and was attended by 45,000 people. am Opernpalais off Unter den Linden (see box), the market
groundbreaking fashion photography from the 1950s to Enke’s coffin was covered with white roses and was placed in Spandau’s old town (until 23 Dec, Sun-Thu 11:00-
1990; also with travel reports, portraits and biographical in the centre of the pitch. German politicians and sports 20:00, Fri 11:00-21:00, Sat 11:00-22:00), and the Lucia
images. stars were also at the memorial, where many of the fans Weihnachstsmarkt in the Kulturbrauerei complex (see box).
wore black and the club’s green, white and black scarf. The Jewish museum garden is home to a special Chanukka
Before the start of the ceremony, fans stood and applauded market (until 27 Dec, daily from 12:00 to 18:00 except Visit the “Berliner Weihnachtszeit” Christmas market
Irish Harp & Kilkenny when Enke’s wife Teresa walked to the coffin together with a
friend. Several members of the German national team also
24 Dec). The WeihnachtsZeit market beneath the TV
tower, in front of the Rotes Rathaus (see box) has stands
between the ‘Rote Rathaus’ town hall and the Marien-
approached the coffin to say goodbye to their teammate. kirche church for an old-style Christmas experience.
Kilkenny Irish Pub resembling the long gone Old Town of Berlin, while there‘s a Dozens of stalls, constructed to look like old Berlin
Enke was buried later in the day next to his daughter Lara huge ‘winter world’ at Potsdamer Platz (see box).
Fun & football, a drink or two and a bite to eat go hand in in a private ceremony near Neustadt, outside Hannover. streets and manned by traders in historical costumes,
hand. And if that’s what you’re after, the Kilkenny Irish Pub is When the Bundesliga programme resumed, on November sell traditional gifts, food and drink, while kids can
where you find it. Watch all major sport events, Champions Germans make Christmas a far less commercial holiday than pirouette on Europe’s largest round ice rink or take in
21st, Enke’s former side Hannover were beaten, 2-0, by some other nationalities, and instead whip themselves into a
League, Premier League, Formula One etc. on large screens, Schalke 04, who moved into third place, two points behind the views from the 50-metre high ferris wheel. Entertain-
together with locals and tourists from all over the world. frenzy with classical music concerts. The Staatsoper Unter ment for young and old is provided by street organs and
the leaders Bayer Leverkusen. Leverkusen, who got a draw den Linden (www.staatsoper-berlin.de) presents the classic
Am Zwirngraben 17-20, tel. 2832084, www. with Bayern Munich the next day, are the only unbeaten side musicians, and a fairy tale teller. Smaller children will
kilkenny-pub.de. Open daily from 10:00. Christmas ballet, The Nutcracker (Der Nussknacker) with love the sight of Santa flying across the market (daily
in the league as we go to press. Bayern, who have struggled music by Tchaikovsky on various dates in December. German
in both the Bundesliga and in Europe this season, are just at 16:30, 18:30 and 20:30).
writer E.T.A. Hoffman dreamed up the original tale, which
7th, with much pressure on coach Louis van Gaal: one more focused more on a sword-brandishing nutcracker and a mouse
bad result and he could be gone before you read these lines. Near Alexanderplatz S- and U-Bahn station and the
king than a sugar plum fairy and a pirouetting entourage. Spandauer Str./Marienkirche bus and tram stop. Open
Yet even Bayern’s current problems pale into insig-
nificance when set besides the woes of Hertha Berlin. Sun-Thu 11:00-21:00, Fri-Sat and 25-26 Dec 11:00-
Already well adrift at the bottom of the table the club 22:00, 24 Dec closed. www.berliner-weihnachtszeit.de.
is doomed to relegation barring a miracle of biblical
proportions. Quite how a side which challenged for the
Lucia Christmas Market
title last year can play so poorly is beyond most people’s at the Kulturbrauerei
comprehension. At a time when Berlin has been at the
Mo - Fr 3pm - 10pm 23.11. - 22.12.2009
Lucia Christmas Market
centre of the world’s attention, Hertha have become an
embarassment. The top-selling German tabloid, Bild, Sa - So 1pm - 10pm A Christmas market with village atmosphere in the Kul-
has called them ‘the capital’s shame.’ A change of coach turbrauerei courtyards, with stands selling handicrafts,
in October has yet to have had any effect whatsoever food and drinks. There‘s a tall Christmas tree, a daily
(they have won just one match all season) and the best visit by Santa at 17:00, stilt-walking artists performing
the team can now hope for appears to be avoiding the daily at 20:00, and plenty of activities for the children
Irish Harp Pub dubious record of lowest ever points total in a Bundesliga at the weekends.
Just off Kurfürstendamm, the Irish Harp Pub is a haven season. The record is currently held by the long-defunct
for music and sports fan alike. 2 bars, a cozy ambience, Tasmania Berlin, whose side of 1964-5 - the inaugural Kulturbrauerei, Schönhauser Allee 36, U-Bahn
3 large TVs and a big screen provide the setting for a Bundesliga season - amassed just eight points. Eberswalder Str, www.lucia-weihnachtsmarkt.de.
great night out, or an afternoon full of excitement and 23 Until 22 Dec, open Mon-Fri 15:00-22:00; Sat-Sun
entertainment while following international football, rugby 13:00-22:00.
and other sports, or playing a round of darts.
Giesebrechtstr. 15, tel. 22328735, www.harp-pub. Until 28 March 2010 HB
de. Open daily from 10:00. Paul Pfeiffer – The Saints
The artist who grew up in the Philippines re-enacted the
1966 football world cup final in Manila and edited the
resulting images.

Fairs Sredzkistr. 1
Knaackstr. 97
15-24 Jan 2010 MB
Schönhauser Allee 36-39
International Green Week Berlin 2010
Popular food and agriculture exhibition 10435 Berlin-Prenzlauer Berg
www.gruenewoche.de www.lucia-weihnachtsmarkt.de

28-31 Jan 2010 Santa visits the market daily between 5 and 6pm
Berlin Fashion Week 2010 merry-go-round, bungee trampoline and swing boat
www.berlin-fashionweek.de Coat-Open-Air-Heater and Swedenfire artworks
Various locations

Berlin In Your Pocket berlin.inyourpocket.com berlin.inyourpocket.com December 2009 - January 2010


18 CHRISTMAS IN BERLIN CHRISTMAS IN BERLIN 19

Nostalgic Christmas Market Winterwelt am Potsdamer Platz


31. October 2009 – 3. January 2010
The Nostalgic Christmas Market next to the Opernpalais www.winterwelt-berlin.de
in Berlin‘s historical centre presents over 220 stands
with gifts and artisans at work and selling their products. Christmas Market from 23 November to 27 December
Traditional food and drinks is available, and children can Toboggan run
enjoy special punch and rides on a century-old carousel Skating rink
and a 1926 Ferris wheel. Come at 16:00 for the daily cul- Large Alpine hut restaurant
tural programme of music and acts on the market stage. New: curling from 23 November

OUTSIDE THE OPERNPALAIS Until 27 Dec 2008. Opernpalais, Unter den Linden
5, MI, www.berliner-weihnacht.de. Market open
UNTIL 27 DEC, 2009 12:00-21:30, Fri/Sat 11:00-22:30, Sun 11:00-21:30.
Closed 24 Dec; 25-27 Dec 11:30-21:00. Park directly below the Potsdamer Platz – first hour €1,–

One of Berlin‘s loveliest


Christmas fairs. Pure nostalgia. Opening times
220 arts & crafts stands, including: New Year’s Eve Many larger stores and malls will open on the Sundays (from daily during the holidays, but may close earlier on the 24th.
chandlers, soap makers, nativity builders, Christmas
While Christmas might be a mellow affair in Berlin, the days 13:00-20:00) leading up to Christmas and remain open till Public transport operates as on Sundays on 25 Dec and
pictures, an old fashioned photographer, brush makers, preceding New Year’s (Silvester) suggest a war-torn city that late at night on weekdays. Museums are largely open during 1 Jan, and has extra services running throughout the night
lantern makers, and many, many others ... hasn’t quite given up its arms yet – that’s what happens when the holidays. The Hauptbahnhof tourist office is open on New Years' Eve.
the corner store sells fireworks to naughty twelve-year-old
boys. The city throws a fantastic 2km-long party that stretches
from the Brandenburger Tor at Pariser Platz all the way to the
Siegessäule column in the centre of Tiergarten park. You
won't be celebrating alone – up to a million people show up,
making this the world's largest New Year's Eve party. You’ll find
some of the best fireworks around Golden Else, on top of her
column. Shake off 2009 and warm up at the same time in one
of several the dance floor tents or at the various stages. For
detailed information see www.silvester-berlin.de.

Winter World at Potsdamer Platz


Until 3 January 2009, the Winter World at Potsdamer
Platz provides Alpine flair and winter sports in the middle
of Germany’s capital for several weeks, as well as the
traditional Christmas Market along Alte Potsdamer
Straße (until December 27). Open daily from 10:00 until
22:00, Sundays till 24:00, 24 Dec till 16:00. For more
information see www.winterwelt-berlin.de.

Hanukkah Market
A Christmas market with a difference.
Hanukkah, the eight-day Jewish festival of the lights,
celebrates the cleaning and rededication of the temple in
Jerusalem over two millennia ago. The Jewish Museum is
celebrating Hanukkah a whole month long with a Hanuk-
Monday-Thursday: noon - 9:30 pm kah Market in the Museum’s Glass Courtyard offering
Friday/Saturday: 11:00 am - 10:30 pm Jewish specialties and Hanukkah wares from all over
Sunday: 11:00 am - 9:30 pm the world, and an exciting program of events featuring Old Berlin flair
Christmas Eve: closed marionette shows, live concerts, and tours on the Jewish
Christmas Day/Boxing Day/27 Dec: festivals. The Hanukkah Market is a market square, a in front of the
11:30 am - 9:00 pm meeting place, and an exhibition all at once. Be it tradi- Rotes Rathaus
tional or outlandish, kitsch or art, wood or ceramic - you
PUBLIC TRANSPORTATION
will find a variety of original gift ideas from Germany, the
“Hausvogteiplatz” underground station
USA, and Israel. A café invites you to take a tasty break Free skating on
“Friedrichstraße” rail & urban rail station
Busses 100, 200 and a small exhibition about Hanukkah elucidates the large round ice rink
festival’s rituals and historical background.
FOR MORE INFORMATION, VISIT
Open until 27 December 2009, daily from 12:00 to 18:00 Open until
(closed on 24 December). Admission free. Jewish December 27
Museum Berlin, Lindenstr. 9-14, www.jmberlin.
www.berliner-weihnacht.de de/chanukka. www.berliner-weihnachtszeit.de

Berlin In Your Pocket berlin.inyourpocket.com berlin.inyourpocket.com December 2009 - January 2010


20 WHERE TO STAY WHERE TO STAY 21

The hotel categories are based on the most expensive Ellington Hotel D-4, Nürnberger Str. 50-55, MWit-
double room rack rate price. All prices include VAT and Symbol key tenbergplatz, tel. 68 31 50/683 15 55 55, contact@
breakfast unless mentioned otherwise. The room prices
that we list are rack rates; the price you pay may be P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted
ellington-hotel.com, www.ellington-hotel.com. A beauti-
ful 1920s building holds the Ellington hotel, named after the Unique books from
different depending on the season, holidays, weekend American jazz legend. Situated near the Kurfürstendamm

Ireland
O Casino H Conference facilities
offers, and special events like trade fairs. and Berlin Zoo, the rooms here have clean, understated
T Child friendly U Facilities for the disabled and elegant design, with the Tower Suites offering great
Over €200 R Internet W Wi-Fi L Guarded parking views over town. The Duke hotel restaurant serves up
international cuisine in fabulous surroundings.Q285 rooms
Adlon F-2, Unter den Linden 77, MI, MUnter den Linden, F Fitness centre G Non-smoking rooms (singles €108 - 238, doubles €118 - 248, suites €168 - 428).
tel. 226 10, fax 22 61 22 22, adlon@kempinski.com, K Restaurant M Nearest S/U-Bahn station PJHARUFLK (and 21 other prizes)
www.hotel-adlon.de. The historic Adlon hotel has views
of the Brandenburg Gate, unfussy 1920s-style rooms with D Sauna C Swimming pool Estrel I-6, Sonnenallee 225, NK, MSonnenallee, tel.
cherry wood, black marble and rich fabrics, plus the staff 683 10/68 31 23 45, info@estrel.com, www.estrel.
provides impeccable service. However, the Adlon’s excellent com. The largest hotel in Germany manages to feel less like
services can often bring noteriety - first Michael Jackson’s Brandenburger Hof C-4, Eislebener Str. 14, WD, something out of the film Metropolis and more like a sunny
baby-dangling episode, and now the CEO of the Bundesbank MAugsburger Str., tel. 21 40 50, fax 21 40 51 00, info@ Florida mall. Seven bars and restaurants ring a slope-roofed
has been forced to resign after having Dresdner Bank pay his brandenburger-hof.com, www.brandenburger-hof.com. atrium above which rise 1,125 rooms and suites. Modern
Adlon tab after he stayed here for the euro introduction cel- In this beautiful light-filled city mansion, rooms are classic art from the owners’ collection fills the public spaces and
Complete our latest readership
ebrations. There is no such thing as bad publicity though, and Bauhaus designed by Le Corbusier and Mies van der Rohe, rooms. The massive conference center even includes a survey at inyourpocket.com/survey
with such esteemed guests checking in on a regular basis the and make other design hotels look amateur. The Japanese glass-enclosed press box for the boxing matches that and we’ll enter you in our prize draw:
Adlon remains the most famous hotel in Berlin, nay Germany. garden courtyard works its way into the atrium in the form of take place here. Even more Las Vegas-style is the Stars
Q375 rooms (302 singles €240 - 310, 302 doubles €290 ikebana floral arrangements and meandering vines overhead. in Concert show in the attached Estrel Festival Center. the winner gets something priceless
- 360, 72 suites €520 - 3800, 1 presidential suite €8500). Ms. Brueder in the ‘beautysuite’ could be the most person- Superstar look-alikes sing to live music here and have and unique from every country
Breakfast €29. PHARUFLGKDC hhhhh able masseuse and beautician in town - she offers the only made the show Berlin’s most successful. When booking
silk cosmetic treatments of Kanebo in Berlin. Q82 rooms a room, ask about packages that include it. Estrel is near currentlyy In Your Pocket.
Am Zoo C-4, Kurfürstendamm 25, CB, MKurfürstendamm, (30 singles €170 - 260, 48 doubles €245 - 295, 4 suites the S-Bahn, but not central to sights. Q1125 rooms (1125
tel. 88 43 70, fax 88 43 77 14, berlin@hotel-am-zoo.de, €345 - 480). HARLEKD hhhhh singles €123 - 235, 1125 doubles €134 - 246, 69 suites Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps

www.hotel-am-zoo.de. With in-room safes, 24-hour service €164 - 639, 1 presidential suite €1790). Breakfast €14.50. VILNIUS BERLIN
and a strolling night watchman, you can rest assured at this Concorde C-4, Augsburger Str. 41, MKurfürstendamm, PHARUFLGKD hhhh June - July 2009

family-owned hotel just around the bend from Zoo Station. Loyal tel. 800 99 90, fax 80 09 99 99, berlin@concorde-hotels.
August
Au
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August
Augus
ugust
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us
s September
Septe
Se
Sep
Septem
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p emb 2009
berr 2
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Grand Esplanade D-4, Lützowufer 15, TG, MNol-


Užupis

employees have worked here for decades, and the floorboards com, www.concorde-hotels.com. The latest five-star hotel A brief sojourn inside Vilnius’
distinctly eccentric
independent republic
Spree river
tours

creak underfoot, just like home. The building dates to 1891 but to open in Berlin, the French-run, 11-floor Hôtel Concorde lendorfpl., tel. 25 47 80, fax 254 78 82 22, www.
Below the bridges
Vingio Parkas
From Tolstoy to rollerblades, Sandpit art
the city’s favourite park is Sandsation sculpting

the look is 1980s-standard; some furnishings have white or Berlin impresses with its wonderfully designed rooms with esplanade.de. Discover the popular Grand Hotel Espla-
pulled apart and examined festival

teal finishes. Q136 rooms (74 singles €133 - 153, 62 doubles sleek fine woods, contemporary art, flatscreen TVs and, on nade Berlin, a completely renovated and modern design
€175 - 255). THARLG higher floors, fantastic views. The curved corner suites have hotel conveniently located in between the cosmopolitan
sliding walls, elegant free-standing bathtubs and electroni- Kur fürstendamm and the Potsdamer Platz, right next
ARCOTEL Velvet F-2/3, Oranienburger Str. 52, MI, cally adjustable bathroom window opacity. Back downstairs, to Berlin’s Central Park the Tiergarten. The hotel is just
MOranienburger Tor, tel. 278 75 30, fax 278 75 38 00, there are top-notch conference facilities, and the Le Faubourg steps away from the KaDeWe, the New National Gallery N°95 - 6Lt
www.inyourpocket.com
N°39 - €1.75
berlin.inyourpocket.com

velvet@arcotel.at, www.arcotel.at. This Austrian-owned, brasserie. The business centre and wellness centre are and the Sony Center. Arrive at the glass-covered atrium
7-floor design hotel has the cuisine of Lutter & Wegner to keep free to use for all guests. Q311 rooms (singles €230 - 425, and enter a world of stylish ambiance and perfect service.
it from getting homesick but otherwise fits well onto gentrifying doubles €230 - 425, 44 suites €355 - 1170). Breakfast €21. Enjoy the view of an illuminated water wall while taking a Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps

Oranienburger Str. A flatscreen TV and CD player are the rooms’ break at the Terrace Restaurant or enjoy a cocktail at the BELFAST PRAGUE
technical perks. Forget to draw the curtains in front of your wall Crowne Plaza Berlin City Centre D-4, Nürnberger Str. legendary Harry’s New York Bar with Live Entertainment
of window and you may end up being the best entertainment 65, CB, MWittenbergpl., tel. 21 00 70, fax 213 20 09, every night. Work out at the Triangle Health & Spa, jog
YOUR COMPLIMENTARY COPY Aug - Sep 2007 December 2008 - January 2009

on the street. Q85 rooms (71 doubles €110 - 250, 14 suites info@cp-berlin.com, www.cp-berlin.com. Just off western through the Tiergarten, Berlin´s Central Park or rent a Better by

€150 - 450). Breakfast €15. PTHARULGK Berlin’s main shopping sprawl, the business-orientated bicycle directly at the hotel to discover Berlin. The main design
Stunning souvenirs,
stylish shopping and

Crowne Plaza offers American-style rooms. It’s the facilities train station is only 8 minutes away by taxi. The three
local crafts on display

The Great
Outdoors

art’otel Berlin City Centre West C-4, Lietzenburger Str. that make the difference between the 22sqm rooms; all are Berlin airports can be reached fast and easily. Q 394 Feel the burn, catch the
waves, take a hike

Gastro Tourism

85, CB, MUhlandstr., tel. 887 77 70, fax 887 77 77 77, fitted with bathtubs and internet keyboards that can be used rooms (singles/doubles from €99, 40 suites from €145). Northern Ireland on a
plate

aobwres@artotels.de, www.artotels.com. The staff’s casual with the TV. Downstairs is the pool/fitness area, plenty of PHARFGKDC hhhhh
black uniforms are suitably gallerist in a setting full of works by flexible conference space, Kemmons bar, Wilson’s restaurant Including
Christmas
Markets

Grand Hyatt E-4, Marlene-Dietrich-Pl. 2, MI, MPots-


NORTHERN

Warhol and photos of the white-haired enigma and pals snapped and a pub. Q423 rooms (singles €99 - 209, doubles €99 -
Gifts galore
IRELAND
HIGHLIGHTS & Winter Chill Out
N°48 - 100 Kþ Massage and more
HIDDEN GEMS

by Christopher Makos. The lobby’s seating is as comfortable as 209). PHARUFLGKDC hhhh damer Pl., tel. 25 53 12 34, fax 25 53 12 35, berlin@
www.inyourpocket.com

N°13
Complimentary copy

it is funky. Service is taken seriously as evidenced by the ques- hyatt.de, www.berlin.grand.hyatt.com. Par t of the
www.inyourpocket.com

tionnaire left on your pillow that asks, what art’rageous service mini-city at Potsdamer Platz, the Grand Hyatt has its own
means to you? Q91 rooms (11 singles €130 - 180, 74 doubles architecture guide and might just be the coolest hotel in
€160 - 250, 4 suites €180 - 280). PARUG hhhh Berlin, arranged according to ancient Feng-Shui principles. inyourpocket.com/survey
Perks in the large rooms include books, broadband internet
Berlin D-4, Lützowpl. 17, TG, MNollendorfpl., tel. access, and free fruit and mineral water. Q342 rooms (342
260 50, fax 26 05 27 16, info@hotel-berlin.de, www. singles €220 - 235, 342 doubles €265 - 280, 14 triples
hotel-berlin.de. Mostly known for its conference facilities, €385 - 400, 5 grand suites €505 - 520, 5 grand executive
the Berlin is a 1950s hotel in a central but rather bland area suites €870 - 885, 2 presidential suites €2520 - 3335).
just south of Tiergarten park. The glam period lobby and PHARUFLEGKDC hhhhh
restaurant give way to comfortably furnished rooms, in a
variety of styles. The Lützow Lounge sports bar shows live
sports action on big screens, while peace can be found in the
green summer garden restaurant. Q701 rooms (103 singles
€100 - 195, 569 doubles €100 - 245, 29 suites €220 - 900).
www.inyourpocket.com
PHARUFLGKD hhhh Ellington Hotel

Berlin In Your Pocket berlin.inyourpocket.com berlin.inyourpocket.com December 2009 - January 2010


22 WHERE TO STAY WHERE TO STAY 23

rooms have been recast into minimalist abodes with fur- fish in one million litres of salt water. 427 modern rooms and with bathtubs. The Xxenia restaurant serves new-German
Meet the concierge nishings you can rearrange through swivel action, and the suites, ten conference rooms, two bars and two restaurants cuisine. Fully renovated in 1999, the Dorint is rightly proud
spa has been revamped with several saunas. Q584 rooms are available for a stay, meeting or event. The DomLounge, to have the city’s largest hotel pool and sauna area. Q384
Togeth er wi th In Your (534 singles €165 - 350, 534 doubles €170 - 400, 50 suites a unique event location on the top floor, offers stunning views rooms (374 singles €195 - 265, 374 doubles €195 - 265, 9
Pocket, the city’s hotel €215 - 2500). Breakfast €20. PHARUIFLEG of the capital. Relaxation is guaranteed in the spa area with executive suite €315 - 385, 1 presidential suite €1500 - ).
concierges are important KDC hhhhh swimming pool, different saunas, steam bath and a 24-hour Breakfast €19. PHARUFLGKDC hhhhh
sources of information fitness room. Massage and beauty treatments are available
for travellers. Recognised Kempinski Bristol C-4, Kurfürstendamm 27, CB, MUh- on request. Q427 rooms (405 doubles €149 - 380, 21 suites Steigenberger Hotel Berlin C/D-4, Los-Angeles-Pl.
by the golden crossed landstr., tel. 88 43 40, fax 883 60 75, reservations.bris- €450 - 650, 1 Nikolai suite €850 - 1200). Breakfast €24. 1, CB, MKurfürstendamm, tel. 212 70, fax 212 71 17,
keys on the lapels of their tol@kempinski.com, www.kempinskiberlin.de. The elite PHARUFGKDC hhhhh berlin@steigenberger.de, www.berlin.steigenberger.de.
jackets, good concierges Kempinski and Adlon are sister properties, but this is where Centrally located but overlooking a quiet square, the Steigen-
will be able to give you res- well-travelled regulars feel more at home - out of the limelight, Ritz-Carlton E/F-4, Potsdamer Platz 3, MI, MPots- berger Hotel Berlin presents the standard five star services in
taurant and sightseeing but still on a swank corner of Ku’damm. The business lunch damer Pl., tel. 33 77 77, fax 337 77 55 55, berlin@ an understated, elegant way. Catering to the businessman as
tips, and can book event special is a steal. Q301 rooms (249 singles €265 - 326, ritzcarlton.com, www.ritzcarlton.com. Fake marble well as other travellers, there are comfort rooms and execu-
tickets for you. In this 249 doubles €322 - 447, 52 suites €470 - 1800). Breakfast Corinthian columns and a sweeping staircase dominate tive rooms, as well as suites, plus a choice of restaurants and
issue, we speak to Gerd €9.90/23. PHARUFLGKDC hhhhh the lobby, where the classic dark wooden bar opens with a well appointed wellness centre. Q397 rooms (387 singles
Buskies, concierge of the a ceremony every evening at 18:00 and serves over 400 €140 - 319, 387 doubles €169 - 319, 10 suites €439 - 1899).
Hilton Berlin since 1989. Mandala E-4, Potsdamer Str. 3, TG, MPotsdamer Pl, fine fruit brandies. The French brasserie has sections that PHARUFLGKDC hhhhh
Mr. Buskies started his tel. 590 05 00 00, fax 590 05 05 00, welcome@madison- were actually sent over and rebuilt at the Ritz. The English
career as a porter in East berlin.de, www.themandala.de. Excellent rooms and apart- tea lounge remains a favoured tradition but the (second) flat Swissôtel Berlin C-4, Augsburger Str. 44, CB,
Berlin's Metropol hotel in 1981, working his way up to the ments for both short and long-term stays. The Potsdamer screen TV in every bathroom is a newer addition for the hotel. MKurfürstendamm, tel. 22 01 00, fax 220 10 22 22,
position of concierge at the Domhotel which became the Platz hotel location has great views over Tiergarten park An executive lounge, gourmet dining, ballroom and conference emailus.berlin@swissotel.com, www.swissotel-berlin.
Hilton in 1992, helping set up various concierge offices and hosts the top-notch Facil restaurant and Qiu lounge; the facilities, health club and other superlative services complete com. Perfect for the busy business person, the Swissôtel
in the old East Berlin. “Like no other city, Berlin combines Friedrichstrasse Mandala Suites are close to the action in this gilt-edged hotel. Q302 rooms (singles €250 - 360, also pampers those looking to idle in understated luxury.
interesting urban sights with the open spaces of parks the heart of the city. Q167 rooms (166 suites €130 - 335). doubles €280 - 440, 40 suites €330 - 5000). Breakfast €28. Every room has a Lavazza espresso machine and suites are
and lakes; helping guests discover both sides of the city Also at Friedrichstraße 185-190 (tel. 20 29 20). Breakfast PTHARUFLGKDC hhhhh cranking with Bang & Olufsen stereos. When you’re done play-
gives me great pleasure”. €21. PHARFLKD hhhhh ing in your room, downtown western Berlin beckons. Q316
Savoy Berlin C-4, Fasanenstr. 9-10, CB, MZoologisch- rooms (219 singles €160 - 310, 219 doubles €160 - 310,
This make our hotel special... The Hilton has a Maritim proArte F-3, Friedrichstr. 151, MI, MFriedrich- er Garten, tel. 31 10 30, fax 31 10 33 33, info@hotel- 14 suites €310 - 480, 11 junior suite €260 - 410). Breakfast
fantastic location, one of the best in Europe, with views str., tel. 203 35, fax 20 33 42 09, info.bpa@maritim.de, savoy.com, www.hotel-savoy.com. Utterly un-Berlin, this 21€. PHARFLGD hhhhh
over the Gendarmenmarkt. Besides that, it's a modern www.maritim.de. Part of the last private German chain of stylish Cuban-flavoured abode made Latin-music lover David
hotel with friendly, unobtrusive service. hotels, the Maritim is equipped with a huge conference centre, Byrne a happy guest. Who knows who you’ll trade smoke The Regent Berlin F-3, Charlottenstr. 49, MI, MFran-
Guests’ requests... Guests often have questions that swimming pool, sauna and fitness area, shops, restaurants, rings with in the cigar shop off the clubby Times Bar. Q125 zösische Str., tel. 203 38, fax 20 33 61 19, www.
have to do with the unification of the Berlin and related black amethyst bathrooms and W-LAN throughout. Each floor rooms (45 singles €142 - 222, 62 doubles €152 - 232, triples theregentberlin.com. Within the luxurious digs of the former
sights, and many want to know about the cultural scene. has been named after and decorated by a different Berlin artist €192 - 272, 16 suites €202 - 292). ARFKD hhhh Four Seasons hotel, the Regent would be stating a truth if it
As for special requests, we once arranged tickets to a of the Young Savages school, and indeed it’s the modern art proclaimed from one of its “Juliet” balconies: “That which they
sold-out Metropolitan Orchestra concert in New York you’ll remember after checking out. Q403 rooms (374 singles Seehof A-4, Lietzensee-Ufer 11, CB, MMesse Nord, tel. call a rose, by any other name would smell as sweet.” Will the
for a regular guest via the Clef's d'Or concierge network. €153 - 223, 374 doubles €172 - 242, 29 suites €300 - 1900). 32 00 20, fax 32 00 22 51, info@hotel-seehof-berlin.de, Hollywood celebrities that frequently stayed here (especially
We've also managed to get a tuxedo rental shop to Breakfast €19. PHARUFLGKC hhhh www.hotel-seehof-berlin.de. With many rooms overlooking during February’s film festival) recognize Shakespeare’s lines?
open after hours for a VIP guest who was invited to an a beautiful lake and park, and located between the Trade Fair Nothing that drew A-list guests has changed. The warm public
important gala. Marriott E-4, Inge-Beisheim-Pl. 1, MI, MPotsdamer and Zoologischer Garten, this is a good place to settle if your spaces gleam with marble and plush guest rooms come
Special restaurants I recommend... Margaux is one of Platz, tel. 22 00 00, fax 22 00 01 00, www.marriott. business is in western Berlin. Decoration varies from classical with DVDs and even flatscreen TVs in the bathroom. Q195
the best in the city, with excellent food, attentive service com. Ten floors of superb rooms, conference facilities and to glam, rooms have large beds with silver/gold gleaming bed- rooms (singles €230 - 360, doubles €260 - 395, suites
and stylish ambience. suites (including the Capital Suite with dining room, piano posts, blue carpets and brown bathrooms with bathtubs. Both €360 - 1950, presidential suite €2950 - 3500). Breakfast
Special sights I recommend... I like to tell guests and entourage annex room). The lobby has a 3 tonne black the pleasant terrace and the small indoor pool overlook the €29. PHARUFLGKD hhhhh
to go to the East Side Gallery or the Bernauer Strasse granite globe spinning serenely on a watery base and the lake. Q75 rooms (singles €105 - 280, doubles €125 - 195,
Wall memorial to see what the Wall meant for this city. copper facade of one wall plays an unearthly light show. A 1 suite €215 - 275). PHALGKC hhhh
In Your Pocket... is much-used by our guests as a tool wellness centre, classic Art Deco NY bar and grill and execu-
for exploring the city. tive amenities round out one of Berlin’s newest and finest Sofitel Berlin Gendarmenmarkt F-3, Charlottenstr. Apartments
hotels. Q379 rooms (350 singles €159 - 219, 350 doubles 50 - 52, MI, MFranzösische Str., tel. 20 37 50, fax 20
€159 - 219, 9 suites €350 - 1200, 80 executive room €199 - 37 51 00, H5342@accor.com, www.sofitel.com. The Whether you’re on a short trip or on a longer work as-
Hilton F-2, Mohrenstr. 30, MI, MStadtmitte, tel. (+49) 259). Breakfast €22. PHAFLGKDC hhhhh success of this merger between sleek, modern design and signment, renting an apartment is often much cheaper
(0)30 202 30, fax (+49)(0)30 20 23 42 69, info.berlin@ 1980s East German grandeur is best seen in the impressive than checking into a hotel.
hilton.com, www.hilton.com. Maybe it’s the excellent Palace D-4, Budapester Str. 45, CB, MZoologischer banquet/conference hall, where GDR columns and chande-
breakfast and not the privileged view on Gendarmenmarkt Garten, tel. 250 20, fax 25 02 11 19, hotel@palace.de, liers meet a post-modern light-emitting floor. The fabulous HSH Apartments Mitte
that keeps guests coming back. Like the living room your www.palace.de. Joining the shopaholics shuttling from the top-floor fitness and sauna area with great views of the E-2/3, Invalidenstr. 32-33,
parents used only when guests came over, these rooms have Europa Center next door, sightseers ogling the zoo across the Gendarmenmarkt monuments, the huge buffet breakfast MZinnowitzer Str., tel. 24
a formal air. The location is perfect for attending summer street, and gourmands feasting at the First Floor restaurant in the light-filled atrium and the in-house Aigner restaurant 04 91 00, fax 24 04 91 01,
concerts on the square and Mitte attractions are so close are guests schmoozing in the banquet and conference rooms compensate for the small rooms, which use smart tricks, stay@hsh-mitte.de, www.
you can’t use long walks as an excuse for indulging in the that include Tai-Ping carpets, oak paneling, and fireplaces. like rolling doors, to use the available space as efficiently as home-suite-home.de. The
exotic spa treatments. Q591 rooms (singles €145 - 345, The staidly furnished rooms are large. Q239 rooms (59 possible. Q92 rooms (29 singles €175 - 270, 41 doubles 42 spacious apartments on
doubles €145 - 345, suites €220 - 1145). Breakfast €26. singles €200 - 300, 191 doubles €225 - 325, 32 suites €190 - 285, suites €320 - 750). Breakfast €15-25. PHA offer for short and long-term stays are comfortable and
PHARUFLEGKDC hhhhh €325 - 2150). PHARUFLGKDC hhhhh RUFLGKD hhhhh well-equipped, with a kitchen and living room and sleep-
ing 1-4 people. Some apartments have balconies and
InterContinental D-4, Budapester Str. 2, MI, MZoolo- Radisson Blu Hotel G-3, Karl-Liebknecht-Str. 3, Sofitel Berlin Schweizerhof D-4, Budapester Str. there is a courtyard garden where you can enjoy breakfast
gischer Garten, tel. 260 20, fax 26 02 26 00, berlin@ MHackescher Markt, tel. 23 82 80, fax 238 28 10, info. 25, MI, MWittenbergpl., tel. 269 60, fax 26 96 10 00, in summer. Guests can use the sauna and fitness room
interconti.com, www.interconti.com. The stretch it’s on berlin@radissonblu.com, www.radissonblu.com/hotel- H5347@accor.com, www.schweizerhof.com. Business at no extra cost. Q 42 rooms (singles €98-195, doubles
is a yawn, but this West Berlin stalwart has been keeping berlin. Perfectly located on the river Spree and opposite the people, Lufthansa flight crews and conference visitors are well €115-245, 3-4 bed rooms on request, prices lower for
up with the times. The excellent restaurant Hugos has been Berliner Dom. The highlight of the lobby is the Aqua Dom, the cared for here. All the 26sqm rooms are fitted out with modern long stays). TAUFLGBDW hhhh
relocated to the 14th floor for a stunning view, east-wing world’s largest cylindrical aquarium boasting 2,500 tropical furniture in bright colours, contemporary art and bathrooms

Berlin In Your Pocket berlin.inyourpocket.com berlin.inyourpocket.com December 2009 - January 2010


24 WHERE TO STAY WHERE TO STAY 25

Best Western President D-4, An der Urania 16 - 18, Hollywood Media Hotel C-4, Kurfürstendamm 202, LAN access and the proximity to the convention centre, while
Astoria MWittenbergpl., tel. 21 90 30, fax 218 61 20, presi- CB, MUhlandstr., tel. 88 91 00, fax 88 91 02 80, info@ everyone will like the sunny seventh-floor breakfast room.
dent@cca-hotels.de, www.cca-hotels.de. Wireless LAN filmhotel.de, www.filmhotel.de. Owned by octogenarian Q170 rooms (34 singles €101 - 161, 136 doubles €118
Astoria C-4, Fasanen- cards, huge leather reclining chairs, cosmetic tables, and an film producer Artur Brauner (Bridge Over the River Kwai), this - 178). Breakfast €13. PHARULGBD hhh
str. 2, tel. 312 40 67, old-time clubby lounge make this a smart choice for business hotel is nondiscriminating in its poster selections (Arnold
info@hotelastoria.de, travellers. Hotel with restaurant, bar, fitness centre, parking Schwarzenegger and the Muppets share one area), but Luisenhof H-4, Köpenicker Str. 92, MI, MMaerkisches
w w w.hotelastoria.de. garage and multifunctional meeting rooms with air condition. rooms named after film stars from the world over are kindly Museum/Heinrich-Heine-Str., tel. 241 59 06, fax 279
One of the best hotels Located next to Kurfürstendamm and KaDeWe, not far from sedate with just one headshot and bio on the wall. What’s 29 83, info@luisenhof.de, www.luisenhof.de. From the
in town - not for stars or the fairgrounds. Connections to all three Berlin airports and most like Hollywood is the 100-seat private screening powder blue colour scheme to the unusually quiet location,
underground parking, but train station „Zoologischer Garten” are excellent. Q178 room and the fact that every room has air-conditioning, a this building, built in 1822, is an ideal retreat for the busi-
for those most important rooms (25 singles €79 - 155, 153 doubles €96 - 183, 3 suites rarity in Berlin. Q185 rooms (134 singles €85 - 120, 134 ness traveller. Immaculate rooms have showers, minibars,
factors in the hospitality €189 - 305, junior suite). Breakfast €14. PHARF doubles €99 - 130, 21 apartments €150 - 172). PA and safes, but internet connection is still limited to modem
industry, service and staff, GKD hhhh RULGD hhhh use. A business plus is the conference room lined with
both of which are excel- windows. In less than five minutes you can reach either the
lent and consistently get Bleibtreu C-4, Bleibtreustr. 31, CB, MUhlandstr., tel. HSH Hotel Albergo - Partner of SORAT Hotels U-Bahn or a green lawn opposite the Märkisches Museum
rave reviews from guests. 88 47 40, fax 88 47 44 44, info@bleibtreu.com, www. **** B-5, Hohenzollerndamm 33, tel. 86 88 90, fax 86 and facing the Spree River. Tourists are just beyond in the
The rooms are spacious, bleibtreu.com. It’s hard to tell the hip guests from the hip 88 91 03, stay@hsh-albergo.de, www.home-suite-home. historic Nikolaiviertel, but Luisenstadt feels much more au-
newly renovated and come neighbours that share the deli and café fronting boutique- de. Once a Russian Orthodox cathedral with onion domes thentic and old. Q27 rooms (8 singles €89 - 140, 18 doubles
equipped with bath and/or shower and include a good lined Bleibtreustraße. The design hotel’s rooms operate by until refurbishment in 1938, the corner building that now holds €109 - 189, 3 triples €124 - 224, 1 junior suite €150 - 250).
breakfast. Set near the Kurfürstendamm and Berlin Zoo, remote-controlled amenities but are decorated with natural the Albergo is a good base for exploring western Berlin and HARLGK hhhh
it’s a good base for expeditions into town, and Astoria fabrics and light tones. If only we could all live in such an airy the nearby Ku’Damm shopping mile. Decorated in flamboy-
offers a variety of packages so you can combine a stay and stylish apartment building. Q60 rooms (15 singles €115 ant by Italian artists, the hotel has spacious standard and Mark C-4, Meinekestr. 18-19, CB, MKurfürstendamm,
with a visit to Berlin with a guided walk, boat tour or a - 157, 45 doubles €125 - 182). ARGK comfort rooms with terracotta tiles, cherry wood furniture, tel. 88 00 28 02, fax 88 00 28 04, info@markhotel.de,
trip to Madame Tussauds or the zoo. For dinner options, desks and wifi, and a bright top-floor Mediterranean-style www.markhotel.de. This comfortable hotel sports a lobby
look no further than the nearby Knese restaurant. Q32 D.O.M.I.C.I.L. B-4, Kantstr. 111a, CB, MWilmers- breakfast room. Q36 rooms (singles €115 - 150, doubles where dated-looking mirrored columns and an egg-carton-like
rooms (singles €89 - 160, doubles €126 - 190, triples dorfer Str., tel. 32 90 30, fax 32 90 32 99, info@ €140 - 175). TALGBKW drop ceiling meets the homey garden-like look of woodwork
€136 - 210, suites €146 - 220). hotel-domicil-berlin.de, www.hotel-domicil-berlin.de. painted light green. The modern rooms are spacious all have
Warm Mediterranean colours and pinewood are used in Ku’Damm 101 B-4, Kurfürstendamm 101, CB, MAde- a bathroom with showers and a fresh flower bloom. The fam-
D.O.M.I.C.I.L.’s modernly outfitted rooms. Continuing the nauerpl., tel. 520 05 50, fax 520 05 55 55, info@ku- ily rooms are a great; the two bedrooms are well separated
theme, the hotel is decorated with stone basrelief art damm101.com, www.kudamm101.com. Modern and styl- from one another, and children under 17 stay free. Guests in
Westin Grand F-3, Friedrichstraße 158-164, MI, hewn from the Pyrenees. Breakfast can be had on the ish, every room is furnished with designer chairs, and a rubber the business class rooms have a separate breakfast room
MFriedrichstr., tel. 202 70, fax 20 27 33 62, info@ rooftop restaurant’s terrace overlooking western Berlin. toy peers back at you from the white-tiled bathroom meant to hobnob in. The location is ideal with the Hard Rock Café,
westin-grand.com, www.westin.com/berlin. Built in GDR Q 70 rooms (singles €118 - 143, doubles €154 - 184, to emulate the Paris metro. Furnishings echo the 1950s and Diekmann restaurant, EasyInternet and Dunkin’ Donuts on
times for Party bigwigs but now completely overhauled, the suites €204, apartments €138 - 204). HARGB 70s, while 21st century, bi-colour rubber flooring is underfoot. the block. Q233 rooms (14 singles €79 - 195, doubles
Westin is a classically-furnished delux hotel in an enviably hhhh Business travellers will appreciate the high speed wireless €89 - 195). PRG
good location. From the huge atrium hall (with a copy of the
Adlon’s marble staircase), the round pool, the copyrighted Grosser Kurfürst G-4, Neue Roßstraße 11-12, MI,
Heavenly Beds and the upmarket restaurant to the sumptous MMärkisches Museum, tel. 24 60 08 43, fax 24 60
suites with butler service, this place breathes quality. Q358 03 00, www.deraghotels.de. Coin-op laundry, kitchen-
rooms (25 singles €136 - 350, 273 doubles €136 - 375, ettes, W-LAN Internet access, discounts for longer stays
suites €379 - 930, 15 junior suites €279 - 565, 1 presidential and the U2 line around the corner make this a great pad
suite €986 - 1930). Breakfast €23. PHARUFLG for anyone who is alternatively on the go, and stuck in-
KDC hhhhh side. The atrium lobby impresses with exposed hallways
and a Babelsberg film studio prop: Berlin’s Great Elector
€150-200 (1620-1688) rears out of a wall on horseback. Ayurvedic
treatments, sauna, and steambath are on site. Q 144
Artist Hotel Riverside F-3, Friedrichstr. 106, MI, rooms (123 singles €130 - 195, 123 doubles €150 - 260,
MFriedrichstr., tel. 28 49 00, fax 284 90 49, riverside@ 21 apartments €130 - 300). (Apartments: Breakfast €12).
tolles-hotel.de, www.great-hotel.de. Not only do they ARUFKD hhhh
have the best website name in Germany and a fabulous
location, the Riverside is also one of the few hotels in Hecker’s C-4, Grolmanstr. 35, CB, MUhlandstr.,
Berlin with a view over the often-overlooked Spree river. A tel. 889 00, fax 889 02 60, info@heckers-hotel.
shabby, cosy place on the third floor of a GDR-era building de, www.heckers-hotel.de. A superbly swank place
(the lounge used to be a dodgy lapdancing bar), rooms have - from the entrance next to the steelblue bar to the
been furnished with fleamarket antiques, old theatre props spacious double rooms, this h otel breath es subtle
and 1980s telephones. Q20 rooms (19 singles €70 - 140, class. The three beautiful suites are the pride of the
19 doubles €90 - 200, triples €110 - 140). Breakfast €9. management, each with a different design (Bauhaus,
ARLG Tuscany and Colonial), wooden floors, large balconies,
walk-in closets and marble bathrooms complete with
Berlin Plaza C-4, Knesebeckstr. 63, MUhlandstr., TV screens next to the mirror. Add the location near
tel. 88 41 30, fax 88 41 37 54, info@plazahotel.de, Savignyplatz, and you’re set for a nice stay. Q 69 rooms
www.plazahotel.de. The Berlin Plaza was renovated in (21 singles €100 - 150, 43 doubles €100 - 170, 3 suites
2006 and offers elegantly simple rooms, equipped with all €300 - 350, 2 junior suite €200 - 230). Breakfast €15.
modern conveniences, such as allergy-free bedlinen and PHARULGK hhhh
free wi-fi. Guests can enjoy German cuisine in the Knese
restaurant downstairs. Just off the Kurfürstendamm, the
hotel is a short walk from west Berlin’s main attractions
and major public transport links. Q131 rooms (singles
€80 - 150, doubles €79 - 180, triples €105 - 200).
www.inyourpocket.com
HLGKW

Berlin In Your Pocket berlin.inyourpocket.com berlin.inyourpocket.com December 2009 - January 2010


26 WHERE TO STAY RESTAURANTS IN MITTE 27

€75-150 Expense account diners could probably eat their way


through the city’s best restaurants on a two-week stay. Symbol key
Motel One G-4, Prinzenstr. 40, MMoritzpl., tel. 70 07 98 VAU, Vivo, Hugos, Die Quadriga, and First Floor all have
00, www.motel-one.com. Basic but cheap as chips. A budget German chefs at the helm, though homage to France and P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted
hotel with decent standards, the rooms and the prices are stan- the Mediterranean work their way onto the menus. Neigh- E Live music S Take away
dard, and check-in outside regular reception hours is by computer. bourhood restaurants and cafés often serve three meals
Excellent if you’re simply looking for a place to crash in style. a day and meld into bars in the later hours. T Child friendly U Facilities for the disabled
Breakfast is €5 extra. Q180 rooms (singles €49, doubles €55). This chapter reviews the restaurants in Mitte (F/G-2) many of G Non-smoking areas L Guarded parking
which are concentrated around upmarket Gendarmenmarkt
Park Inn Berlin Alexanderplatz G-3, Alexanderpl. 7, and the nightlife area on, north and east of Oranienburger O Casino M Nearest S/U-Bahn station
MI, MAlexanderpl., tel. 238 90, fax 23 89 43 05, berlin. Straße. Turn to p.32 for restaurants in the Potsdamer Platz R Internet W Wi-Fi connection
hotel@rezidorparkinn.com, www.parkinn-berlin.com. In area, and in western Berlin, Kreuzberg, Prenzlauer Berg and
terms of transportation options, this might be Berlin’s most Friedrichshain (see p.5 for more about Berlin’s districts).
central hotel and the best choice for the direction-impaired.
Germany’s third-largest hotel rises 40 stories and sits at
the transportation hub of desolate Alexanderplatz. Set your American
sights further from your room. The new Business Class cat- Play Off E/F-4, Alte Potsdamer Str. 7 (Postdamer Platz
egory rooms are newly renovated and all are stocked with a Arkaden), MPotsdamer Platz, tel. 25 29 99 99, www.
coffeemaker and ironing board. Q1012 rooms (318 singles play-off.tv. An American sports bar and restaurant in the style
€89 - 125, 671 doubles €89 - 125, 23 suites €130 - 185). of the 1950s, when times were good, and when we all aspired
Breakfast €15. POARFGKD hhhh to the American way of life. You can expect generous portions
of American snacks and food, including a huge hamburger, and
Park Plaza I-2, Storkower Str. 162, PB, MLandsberger drop by on Mondays for the spare ribs night. Sports events,
Allee, tel. 42 18 10, fax 42 18 11 11, www.parkplaza.com. American and others, are displayed on screens and if you’re
The neighborhood surrounding this business-oriented hotel in lucky you’ll meet the chain’s own cheerleader team. QOpen
the Forum Landsberger Allee is a yawn, but you will sleep well 09:00 - 01:00, Sun 09:30 - 01:00.
in rooms where curves and angles in the attractive furnishings
declare themselves modern. Five lines of Berlin’s perfectly efficient
electric street car (or tram) system stop right outside and will whisk Asian
you to the heart of shopping and nightlife in Mitte and Prenzlauer Kamala F-3, Oranienburger Str. 69, MI, MOranienburger
Berg in minutes. There’s also an S-Bahn station. A five minute Tor, tel. 283 27 97, www.kamala-thaifood.de. Respect- Manngo
jog brings you to the lovely Friedrichshain park. Q155 rooms (1 able Thai cuisine is served in a colonial atmosphere, where
single €77 - 86, 154 doubles €92 - 102). PARLGKD heavy, dark wood tables are adorned with woven placements, with chicken and piping hot, and the curries are rich and
orchids and tall candles. The Tom Yam Gai soup is crowded buttery. QOpen 12:00 - 23:30, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00, Sun
Riehmers Hofgarten F-5, Yorckstr. 83, KB, MMehring- 11:00 - 23:30. (€7-15). AB
damm, tel. 78 09 88 00, fax 78 09 88 08, info@riehmers-
hofgarten.de, www.riehmers-hofgarten.de. This grand Manngo G-2, Mulackstr. 29, MI, MWeinmeisterstr., tel.
Mark Apart C-4, Lietzenburger Str. 82, CB, MUhland- dame of a 19th-century apartment building maintains her classy 28 04 05 58, www.manngo.de. Recently expanded and still
str., tel. 88 91 20/88 91 21 51, info@markaparthotel. composure while the funky shops and gay nightlife unfurl around packing them in is Manngo, the deliciously enticing Vietnamese
de, www.markaparthotel.de. This building once held the corner on Mehringdamm. She’s unfussy and stylish and near with a small but perfectly formed menu. Curry, satay, spring rolls
private apartments, but there are no kitchenettes. Your the popular Bergmannstraße drag. On a balmy evening, join the and soups for €5 a plate, while fresh juices and Saigon beer also
minibar does greet you with a free beer, mineral water and Kreuzberg couples making the pilgrimage to the top of Viktori- up the ante. Friendly staff, authentic cuisine and low prices - a
softdrinks. Differences from its sister hotel, the Mark, are apark. Q22 rooms (2 singles €98 - 108, 20 doubles €123 - 163, match made in culinary heaven. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Sat
the larger rooms (all with tubs), a parking lot, and the fact 20 triples €143 - 183). ARUGK hhh 16:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. (€5.50). TANB
that there is no bar or restaurant (apart from the breakfast
Noodle Kitchen G-3, Karl-Liebknecht-Str. 3, tel. 238
room). Room balconies overlooking Lietzenburger Strasse
will let in a lot of traffic sound; better relax on the shared Airport hotels 28 34 64, fax 238 28 10, info@noodlekitchen-berlin.
terrace towards the back. Q96 rooms (5 singles €79 - 195, Mercure Airport Hotel Berlin Tegel B-1, Kurt-Schum- de, www.noodlekitchen-berlin.de. A taste of Asia in Mitte.
91 doubles €89 - 195). ALG acher-Damm 202, tel. 410 60, fax 410 67 00, H0791@ There’s a choice of freshly made sushi, noodle soups and
accor-hotels.com, www.mercure.com. This functional wok dishes at fair prices with a fast and uncomplicated
Myer’s H-2, Metzer Str. 26, PB, MSenefelder Platz, tel. and comfortable hotel is the only option close to Tegel air- service - enough reasons to return to the Noodle Kitchen.
44 01 40, fax 44 01 41 04, info@myershotel.de, www. port. The well-insulated doubles all have combined shower/ Smart or casual, everybody gets together at long tables to
myershotel.de. Entered from a quiet courtyard, Myer’s is an baths. Children under 16 sleep for free. The free shuttle bus philosophise about the different sauces - hot or spicy? - in a
upmarket private hotel catering to individual tourists and busi- can be ordered from the airport information desk or by using trendy Asian ambience. There are a lot of delicious choices,
ness travellers. Nearly all classically furnished rooms overlook the free hotel telephone between gates N°7 and 8. Q184 so order a few dishes at the same time so everybody can
the courtyard garden. The singles are small, but the double rooms (singles €69 - 199, doubles €69 - 199). Breakfast €16. try everything - that’s the right way to do it and to have fun.
rooms offer adequate space. On the ground floor, a tearoom PHARUFLGKDC hhh From sushi and kushiyaki to Singapore noodles, only original
opens up to the pleasant terrace and garden. Q41 rooms recipes are used - authentic, fresh and healthy. It never gets
(8 singles €85 - 140, 33 doubles €110 - 175). HARG
Apartments boring observing the open show kitchen or watching the boats
and ships passing by on the river Spree in front of the beauti-
Propeller Island City Lodge B-4/5, Albrecht-Achilles- ackselhaus H-2, Belforter Str. 21, PB, MSenefelder ful scenery of the Berlin Cathedral. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00.
Str. 58, WD, MAdenauerpl., tel. 891 90 16, fax 892 87 Platz, tel. 44 33 76 33, fax 441 61 16, info@ackselhaus.
21, reservierung@propeller-island.de, www.propeller- de, www.ackselhaus.de. An In Your Pocket favourite, ack- Van Long Reinhardtstrasse 8, MOranienburger Tor, tel.
island.de. With utterly individually decorated rooms, this sel’s fully equipped apartments with kitchens are spacious, (+49)(0)30 28 23 570, www.van-long.de. Best visited for
handcrafted hotel by musician Lars Stroschen is more like equipped with WLAN, and each have been individually theme- the wide range of Vietnamese specialities, from all parts of the
Fantasy Island. Fetishists of all sorts can find their niches in designed (Africa, Lover’s Nest and Water) with antiques country, Van Long also has some tasty Thai options served in
rooms like the Space Cube, Mirror Room, Two Lions, Forest, and beautiful colours. Throw in the low prices, delicious a modest space decorated with Vietnamese art. Try the spe-
Temple, Electric Wallpaper, Nudes, or Upside Down. Do check mattresses, the lush garden, the location between the cials such as the Chả Cá Lã Vọng fish that
the website before making a booking. Q32 rooms (4 singles Kollwitzstraße bars and Mitte, and you’ll keep coming back you finish grilling at your table, or the Lẩu chay clay
€65 - 180, 28 doubles €90 - 195). Breakfast €7. AG for more. Q16 rooms (25 apartments €66 - 165). ARG pot with tofu and vegetables. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (€11-19).

Berlin In Your Pocket berlin.inyourpocket.com berlin.inyourpocket.com December 2009 - January 2010


28 RESTAURANTS IN MITTE RESTAURANTS IN MITTE 29

Austrian Decoding the menu


Brecht-Haus Kellerrestaurant F-2, Chausseestr.
125, MI, MOranienburger Tor, tel. 282 38 43, www. Fleisch Meat
Auflauf casserole
brechtkeller.de. The recipes served here are those of a busy Braten roast
Austrian actress making do with East German ingredients, Bratwurst sausage
so though decent, it’s not the Tafelspitz (rump steak) that’s Brust breast
famous, but the spirit of the place where playwright Berthold Eintopf stew
Brecht and his actress wife Helene Weigel lived. The small Eisbein knuckle of pork
basement cellar is full of family photographs and original set Ente duck
models of plays like Mother Courage. Also inside is what could Gans goose
Hackbraten meatloaf
only be described as a romantic brick-lined lounge area. A wall Haxe knuckle
separates a terrace from the cemetery where the couple are Hühnchen chicken
buried. QOpen 18:00 - 01:00. (€9-15). B Kalb calf
Kaninchen young rabbit
Kohlrouladen cabbage-stuffed beef
Beer houses Küken puisson
Lamm lamb
Georgbräu G-3, Spreeufer 4, MI, MKlosterstr., tel. 242 Leberkäse meatloaf
42 44, www.georgbraeu.de. With a terrace overlooking the Pute turkey
river and flanked by a dramatic statue of St. George slaying Kaffeebank F-2, Unter den Linden 13-15, MI, MFried- Reh deer
a dragon (for no apparent reason), the Georgbräu is a merry, richstr., tel. 202 09 30. Get a free peek at the one-room Rind beef
tourist-orientated brewery serving great beer. The menu lists gallery of the Deutsche Guggenheim while also refuelling with Rippchen loin ribs
wonderful local food, with things like Big Berlin Balls, which we’re the cheapest cappuccino (€1.80) to be found on the grand Rouladen thinly sliced beef
sure to try... next time. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. (€5-11). B boulevard. A tiny coffee bar in the gift shop serves caffeinated Schenkel, Schlegel, Keule leg
Schnitzel veal, pork cutlet
drinks, beer, small cakes and sandwiches. Just three glass- Schwein pork
Cafés topped tables with low, cushioned seats join the displays
of art books and merchandise. QOpen 11:00 - 20:00, Thu
Steak
Weißwurst
steak
veal sausage
Adam’s Media Cafe F-3, Friedrichstr. 94, MI, MFried- 11:00 - 22:00. Closes during changes of exhibition. Wild venison
richstr., tel. 206 14 44 00, http://www.opel.de/experi- Wildschwein wild boar
ence/treffpunkt/berlin/index.act. A restaurant, bar and Label 205 F-3, Friedrichstr. 68, MI, MStadtmitte, tel.
Fisch Fish
internet café with an Opel showroom slipped in at the back. Van Long 20 94 45 45, www.label205.de. A café literally at the Forelle trout
Named after the manufacturer’s founder (indeed, Adam Opel), bottom of a huge pile of junk, on the lower level of the posh Hering herring
this place offers breakfast and lunch too. The large windows Assel F/G-3, Oranienburgerstr. 21, MI, MOranienburger Quartier 205 shopping gallery. Live music is played here Kabeljau codfish
offer good views of the crowds outside. QOpen 08:00 - 21:00, Str., tel. 281 20 56. The reason that German students several afternoons a week, varying from ‘light classic’ and Lachs salmon
Sun 08:00 - 20:00. can take up to 10 years to finish university must be their jazz to shopper’s blues. For cheap cocktails visit the after Scholle plaice
frequenting of bars like Assel. A well-known bar-cum-gallery, it work parties on Wednesdays. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00, Sun
has well-priced bar food and above all a scruffy bohemian feel 11:00 - 22:00. PE Beilagen Side dishes
Auberginen aubergines
to it. In addition to all that, Mr. Funny wrote the menu, which Blumenkohl, Karfiol cauliflower
lists breakfasts named existentialist (black coffee, cigarette), Operncafé F-3, Unter den Linden 5, MI, MFriedrichstr., Bohnen beans
hangover (espresso, aspirin, glass of water) and diet (glass tel. 20 26 83, www.opernpalais.de. The three Prussian Bratkartoffeln roast potatoes
Traditional Vietnamese Cuisine of water, SlimFast). QOpen 10:00 - 02:00. B princesses who once lived in this palace would have loved Brokkoli
Brötchen
broccoli
bread roll
what the current owner has done to the place. Not only is a
Cum Laude F-3, Universitäts Str, MI, MFriedrichstr., selection of 40 to 50 cakes and pies available each day, but Erbsen peas
Gurke cucumber
tel. 208 28 83, www.cum-laude.info. To escape the a complete renovation brought a rococo ambience and ceiling Karotten, Möhren carrots
tourists on Unter den Linden, duck into the side of Hum- paintings in the style of the early 19th century. The cakes are Kartoffeln, Erdäpfel potatoes
boldt University for some quiet time with students and made in-house and the best place to enjoy them is outdoors Knödel dumplings
professors. Classical music plays, the room is elegant with on the terrace that seats 650 people. Lunch and snacks are Knoblauch garlic
light lemon-coloured walls and dark furniture and you’ll feel served too. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. B Nudeln pasta
like a part of Berlin, even if you, as a Gäste, will pay a little Paprika pepper
more for your dish than the Studenten. The kitchen doesn’t Sophieneck G-2/3, Große Hamburger Straße 37, Pfannkuchen pancakes
Petersilie parsley
get good scores, so stick to soups, the tap beer or coffee MWeinmeister Straße, tel. 283 40 65, w w w.so- Pfeffer pepper
and house-made cake. QOpen 08:30 - 23:30, Sat 12:00 phieneck-berlin.de. A favourite of locals and tourists alike, Pilze mushrooms
- 24:00, Sun 11:00 - 24:00. Sophieneck is one of the most charming cafés in Mitte. Pommes Frites french fries, potato chips
Located near Hackescher Markt since the revamp of the Salz salt
district in 1984, it has resisted trendification, staying true to Sauerkraut sauerkraut
its warm mishmash décor of art nouveau and poster art. The Senf mustard
Spargel asparagus
menu offers delicious Central European fare, accompanied by
‡ Vegetarian dishes an international wine list. QOpen 12:00 - 02:00.
Spätzle egg noodles
Speck bacon
‡ Meat and fish dishes Spinat spinach
‡ Noodles Fine dining Zucker sugar
Zwiebeln onion
‡ Asian alcoholic drinks
Aigner F-3, Französische Str. 25, MFranzösiche Str., tel.
‡ Cocktails 203 75 18 50, info@aigner-gendarmenmarkt.de, www. Desserts Desserts
Apfelstrudel apple pie
aigner-gendarmenmarkt.de. One of Berlin’s best places to
Open daily 12:00-24:00 eat, Aigner is truly international, as its name, concept and all
Berliner/ Krapfen/ Kreppel
Bethmännchen
doughnut
almond paste cookies
the old furnishings originate from a famous Viennese cafe that Bienenstich cake
5einhardtstr  ‡ 1011 %erlin-Mitte closed in the 1980s. Master chef Herbert Beltle and his team Lebkuchen/Printen
Mousse
ginger bread
mousse
serve award-winning dishes with ingredients sourced fresh
Tel 00 - 22  0 ‡ ZZZYan-longde from the market. The ‘cheese duel’ dessert is a competitive Rote Grütze red fruit jelly
Sophieneck way to end your dinner.QOpen 12:00 - 02:00. AU

Berlin In Your Pocket berlin.inyourpocket.com berlin.inyourpocket.com December 2009 - January 2010


30 RESTAURANTS IN MITTE RESTAURANTS IN MITTE 31

Borchardt F-3, Französische Str. 47, MI, MFranzö-


sische Str., tel. 81886262. Borchardt didn’t have to invest
much to make a good first impression - the mere height of the
ceiling and the building’s original tile floors whisper class and
Restaurant
luxury. The money and creative energy goes into the kitchen,
which comes up with a different menu each day to keep its
regular clientele surprised. Leave the pork to the Germans,
Maxwell
the beef dishes here are delectable. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00.
(€20-30). A Bergstraße 22
Berlin-Mitte
Fischer s Frit z F-3, Charlottenstr. 49 (Regent Open daily from 18:00
Hotel), MI, MFranzösische Str., tel. 20 33 63 63,
Fischer sfrit z.b erlin@r ezidorr egent.com, w w w. tel: 280 71 21
fischersfritzberlin.com. The restaurant’s name comes www.mxwl.de
from a tongue-twister and the light, fish-focused menu
is for a very refined palate. Chef Chrisian Lohse has won
several of the Michelin stars that appear none too oft in
Maxwell F-2, Bergstr. 22, MI, MRosenthaler Pl., tel.
Germany. The German chef first trained in Dijon and has
since pleased gourmands such as those at The Dorches- 280 71 21. The restored redbrick courtyard of the Josty German
ter in London and the Sultan of Brunei (as a private chef). Brewery is the come-on to passers-by. The scents of nouvelle Alpenstueck F-2, Gartenstr. 9, MI, MNordbahnhof, tel.
The dining room has light woods, deep carpets and a French and German cooking and the mature, artsy-looking 21 75 16 46, info@alpenstueck.de, www.alpenstueck.de.
fireplace. Q Open 6:30-11:30; 12:00 - 14:00; 18:30 - crowd nail the curious to a seat. Dinner items include leg of Wiener Schnitzel with Schwabian potato salad maultaschen with
23:00. PAG lamb with Jerusalem artichoke and lime marinated guinea Bavarian creme are just a few of the dishes available at Alpen-
fowl with a mash of aubergine and mushrooms. QOpen stueck, a designer restaurant with a traditional twist. Chef Peter
Lutter & Wegner F-3, Charlottenstr. 56, MI, MFran- 18:00 - 24:00. AB Geissler prepares southern German and Austrian home cooking
zösische Str., tel. 202 95 40, www.lutter-wegner- with fresh ingredients, changing the menu every three days. A feast
gendarmenmarkt.de. Classy, traditional, and with a link to Paris-Moskau E-3, Alt-Moabit 141, TG, MHaupt- for the eyes and the palate. QOpen 18:00 - 24:00. Closed Mon.
the actor who put the sparkle in German wine in 1811, this is bahnhof/Lehr ter Bahnhof, tel. 394 20 81, w w w.
the place to share a bottle of Sekt before or after a concert paris-moskau.de. Many S-Bahn passengers assume Café Adler F-4, Friedrichstr. 206, KB, MKochstr., tel. 251
at the Konzerthaus on Gendarmenmarkt. There’s a warren this lonely and unusual half-timber house from 1898 is 89 65. It’s hard to believe a place near the tourist magnet of
of rooms in which to carve out a cosy niche. Germans know related to the railroad, as it sits along the tracks that Checkpoint Charlie could be so authentic. The café used to have
their roasts, and you can trust the national committee that link Paris and Moscow. But the fine restaurant inside a prime view of the Wall, and its back room with tin ceiling keeps
dubbed the Sauerbraten here the best in Germany in 2003. has more connections to the Mediterranean. Dishes a pre-war feel. Who knows how many fresh ingredients go into the
Maxwell QOpen 11:00 - 03:00. Closed Sun. The warm kitchen closes including lamb rack with roasted artichokes and gnocchi. amazingly tasty soups. Salads and daily specials are excellent
at 01:00 while the Weinstube serves cold dishes until 03:00. Q Open 12:00 - 15:00 (Mon to Fri), daily 18:00 - 23:30. too. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Sun 10:00 - 19:00. (€4-9). AGB
(€16-22). AB (€20-25). A

Margaux F-3, Unter den Linden 78 (entrance on Wil- VAU F-3, Jägerstr. 54/55, MI, MFranzösische Str.,
helmstr), MI, MUnter den Linden, tel. 22 65 26 11, tel. 202 97 30, www.vau-berlin.de. It’s easy to spell and
www.margaux-berlin.de. Rich cuisine by Chef Michael rhymes with wow, and the latter is the word-of-mouth that
Hoffmann at this Michelin-starred restaurant, which uses has kept chef Kolja Kleeberg’s restaurant fully booked for
only the best ingredients for a daily menu that is chosen the past four years. Using many products from the Berlin
by quality of supplies. Fish are only line-caught, mostly in area, Michelin-starred Kleeberg follows his mentor Josef
the Atlantic off the coast of France, and legumes cater for Viehhauser’s rule: never more than three products on a plate.
vegetarian gourmands. Save room for the French cheese Q Open 12:00 - 14:30, 19:00 - 22:30. Closed Sunday. (€35-
plate. Service is gracious, friendly, and professional with Mr. 38). PARG h
Ingo Sperling, the award-winning maitre d’ recommending
dishes and wines from their selection of 700, with California
Napa Valley becoming a firm favourite. A good way to sample French
the cuisine is the €35 three-course lunch or the six-course Café de France
dinner for €95. Q Open 19:00 - 22:30. Closed Sun. (€18- F-3, Unter den Linden 62-68, MI (Peugeot Avenue
48). PAG h Berlin), MUnter den Linden, tel. 20 64 13 91, www.
peugeot-avenue.de. For stylishness, airiness and privacy,
this red brasserie above the Peugeot car showroom is a
smart choice for a small business meeting. Designed by
Yves Taralon and Philippe Starck, the bistro hosts the
GANYMED BRASSERIE Avenue Lounge after-work party on the last Thursday of
the month from 18:30-23:00. Q Open 10:00 - 22:00, DAILY 11.00 – 24.00
…Š‹Ơƒ—‡”†ƒ͡Ȉͣ͜͝͝͝‡”Ž‹ Sun & holidays 10:00 - 18:00, on World Cup match days
10:00 - 23:00. (€8-13). A Modern and light German food on
‡ƒ”Ǧ”ƒ‹Ǧ–ƒ–‹‘ ”‹‡†”‹…Š•–”ƒé‡
Ganymed F-3, Schiffbauerdamm 5, MI, MFriedrichstr., Berlin‘s catwalk no.1
‘’‡†ƒ‹Ž›͝͞ƒǤǤ–‘͝͞’ǤǤ tel. (+49)(0)30 28 59 90 46, www.ganymed-brasserie.
”‡…Š…—‹•‹‡ƬƒŽ•ƒ–‹ƒ•’‡…‹ƒŽ‹–‹‡• de. Strolling along the Spree or after a show at the beloved
Berliner Ensemble, stop off at Ganymed’s historical rooms
for Alsatian Flammekuchen, French choucroute and beers, Kastanienallee 82 | 10435 Berlin Prenzlauer Berg
™™™Ǥ‰ƒ›‡†Ǧ„”ƒ••‡”‹‡Ǥ†‡ oysters, wines and the menu du soir. The terrace has a (030) 780 089 - 550 | www.gls-restaurant.de
’Š‘‡φͥ͠Ǧ͟͜Ǧͤͥͥ͜͢͞͡͠ view of the Spree and the trains pulling into Friedrichstrasse
station. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. Kitchen from 12:00 until
U2 Eberswalder Str. U8 Rosenthaler Platz
Ganymed 24:00. (€7 - 22). AB

Berlin In Your Pocket berlin.inyourpocket.com berlin.inyourpocket.com December 2009 - January 2010


32 RESTAURANTS IN MITTE RESTAURANTS IN MITTE 33

Pub and eatery in the historical centre of Berlin

We offer
fresh
regional
German Mutter Hoppe G-3, Rathausstr. 21, MI, MAlex- ous artistic programmes throughout the week, you can
cuisine! anderpl., tel. 241 56 25, www.prostmahlzeit.de/
mutterhoppe. Head down the winding staircase into this
dance to live music on Friday and Saturday nights. Visit
on Sundays between 11:00 and 14:00 for the famous
restaurant in the Nikolaiviertel district. You’ll find the space Jazz-brunch with the Swing Dance Band (€29.50 including
divided into cosy, low-ceilinged nooks with upholstered a glass of Prosecco and coffee). QOpen 14:00 - 01:00.
banquettes and historic photos and drawings on the Closed Mon. E
Große Hamburger Straße 37 Operntreff
painted walls. Heavy meat dishes are the meals to order
10115 Berlin Die Schule G-2, Kastanienallee 82, MEberswalder here. The kitchen offers sides not served at other German Rotisserie Weingrün G-4, Gertraudenstr. 10-12,
Str, tel. (+49)(0)30 780089-550, www.gls-restaurant. restaurants, including green beans wrapped in bacon. MSpittelmarkt, tel. 20 62 19 00, info@rotisserie-
Tel.: 0049(0) 30 283 40 65 de. Modern and light German food on Berlin´s catwalk no.1: Make reservations; or try their sister restaurant Julchen weingruen.de, w w w.rotisserie-weingruen.de. Set
Fax: 0049(0) 30 285 99 860 Kastanienallee aka „casting alley“ is a perfect place to watch
Berlin street style. „Die Schule“ has a terrace facing Kastani-
Hoppe, a few doors further towards the Spree. QOpen
11:30 - 23:30. (€9-15). E
inside the only pre-1900 house remaining in what was
once Berlin’s old town, Weingrün’s fresh and simple
enallee and the airy interiors belie that these rooms used to interior is a great place to sample regional grill dishes
E-mail: info@sophieneck-berlin.de be classrooms (hence the name). You can have all the German Operntreff F-3, Unter den Linden 5, MI, MFriedrich- such as Brandenburg duck and roast Saalow herb pig.
food classics, and even better: you can even have them all at str., tel. 20 26 83, www.opernpalais.de. The dance The cellar is stocked with wines from the owner’s own
www.sophieneck-berlin.de once: try “German Kleinigkeiten”, small samples of everything and cocktail bar inside the Opernpalais Unter den Linden vineyards in the Pfalz. The restaurant offers good views
the German cuisine is famous for. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. serves guests over 50 varieties of cocktails in a casual over the Spree canal. QOpen 17:00 - 23:00. Closed Mon,
environment that’s steeped in history. Apart from vari- Sun. € 8-18. A
DomCurry F-3, Gendarmenmarkt, Hilton hotel, tel.
+49(0)30 202 30, www.hilton.de/berlin. Elevating fast
food to a gatronomic experience, the Hilton allows you to style Hospitality as Tradition
your own currywurst using top-quality ingredients, right beside
the Deutsche Dom on Gendarmenmarkt. There are several
types of sausage (ostrich, eco, fish), sauces and bread to
choose from. Any currywurst combo costs €3.50, with french
Culinary,
fries €6.50. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00.

Habel Weinkultur F-3, Luisenstr. 19, MI, MFriedrichstr.,


Art & Culture
tel. 28 09 84 84, www.wein-habel.de. Set in the arches in the Opernpalais
under the rumbling S-Bahn tracks and in an adjacent grand
building, this excellent ‘wine brasserie’ serves delicious German Unter den Linden
and international cuisine backed up by their shop offering a stun-
ning selection of wines.QOpen 07:00 - 24:00. (€9-19). AB

Hackescher Hof G-2, Rosenthaler Str. 40-41, MI,


MHackescher Markt, tel. 283 52 93, www.hackescher-
hof.de. This spacious restaurant at an eye-catching position
within the Hackesche Höfe complex didn’t bother coming up
with its own name, nor does it seem to have invested any
energy in coming up with a good team in the kitchen. The food
is disappointing, so best stick to coffee and a snack. QOpen
07:00 - 03:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 03:00. (€6-17). AB

Mittmann’s G/H-3, Rungestr. 11, MI, MHeinrich-


Heine-Str., tel. 279 35 02, www.mittmanns.de. Old
German advertising covers the brick walls of this old-style
Berlin restaurant that’s been here since before the fall of
the Wall. Now there’s American license plates lining a ceiling
beam. The wait staff can make suggestions based on what
0QFSOQBMBJT
VOUFSEFOMJOEFO
you’re in the mood for, and the kitchen does well with its Kalb
VOUFSEFOMJOEFO]CFSMJO
(veal) and fish dishes. The restaurant is on the small side, so UÁ]GÁ
consider making a reservation. QOpen 11:30 - 23:00, Sat JOGP!PQFSOQBMBJTEF]XXXPQFSOQBMBJTEF
AM 17:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (€8-16). NB

Berlin In Your Pocket berlin.inyourpocket.com berlin.inyourpocket.com December 2009 - January 2010


34 RESTAURANTS IN MITTE RESTAURANTS IN MITTE 35

Schwarzwaldstuben F-3, Tucholskystr. 48, MI, HEat G-3, Karl-Liebknecht-Str. 3, tel. 238 28 34
MOranienburger Str., tel. 28 09 80 84. Bambi meets 72, fax 238 28 10, info@heat-berlin.de, www.heat- Fast Food
Berlin chic at the trendy Black Forest themed Schwarzwald- berlin.de. HEat with its show kitchen offers dishes with
stuben, which has a friendly atmosphere, bedraggled ani- authentic influences: spicy dishes from the Indian Tandoor 24 Hours G-2, Rosenthaler Str. 43, MI, MWeinmeis-
mal heads mounted on the walls and heavy mix-matched oven, crispy crusts from the wood oven and freshly grilled terstr., tel. 27 59 40 29. If the person next to you on the
furniture. Regional treats include Maultaschen (ravioli-like dishes from the Rotisol. In addition to the big terrace and night bus from Hackescher Markt reeks of fried food and
pockets in broth) and Jägerschnitzel, plus Eichbaum beer the spectacular view of the Berliner Dom, the restaurant onions, chances are he made a pitstop here. Opposite
on tap. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 24:00. offers a wide range of excellent wines from all over the the Hackesche Höfe, this place has got location, location,
Weihenstephaner location as well as French fries, Currywurst and Döner
(€5-13). B world. Flame, the private dining room, has a separate door
taurant. The legendary Under the Nut Tree Inn used to stand to the Spree terrace and is perfect for a private diner or kebab plates. Q Open 24hrs. (€2-5).
Ständige Vertretung F-3, Schiffbauerdamm 8, MI, on a street on the island 200m to the southwest. When a small meeting and can be booked for up to 12 people.
MFriedrichstr., tel. 282 39 65, www.staev.de. Bonn the war ravaged area was rebuilt in the 1980s, the inn was Q Open 06:30-23:00. Breakfast (€24) until 10:30, Sun Curry 36 F-5, Mehringdamm 36, KB, MMehring-
politicians and bureaucrats were not happy when they had reconstructed here. Most patrons don’t care an Ampelmann until 11:00. Open 06:00-23:00. Breakfast (€24) until damm. If you want to eat Currywurst the proper Berlin
to move to Berlin. They sent their favorite Bonn hangout for authenticity, and tuck into the well-priced Berlin specialities 10:30, Sun 11:00. way, you’ll order yours here boiled and naked. It looks a
(named after the West-German ‘embassy’ in the GDR) as with curious translations, such as ‘brown rolls with dripping.’ little pale in comparison to the ones with their pink skins
an advance scout. This laid-back politician’s meeting point QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (€7-10). AB Kaiser stub en F-3, Palais am Festungsgrab en, on, but you might earn an iota of respect from the hard-
supplies the homesick with their beloved Kölsch beer and MI, MFriedrichstr., tel. 20 61 05 48, w w w.kai- boiled Fraus who work the stand. Other proletarian Berlin
Rhineland specialties (like Blutwurst and Saumagen), but Zur Letzten Instanz G-3, Waisenstr. 14, MI, MK- serstuben.de. Tr y to keep your praise for the roasted specialities you can take to the stand-up outdoor tables
the menu has a selection of Berlin food as well. QOpen losterstr., tel. 242 55 28, www.zurletzteninstanz.de. turbot and poached veal saddle to a murmur, as hear ty are the fried burgers, Boulette. QOpen 09:00 - 04:00,
11:00 - 01:00. (€4-13). AB Berlin’s oldest restaurant doesn’t lie on the tourist path, and declarations do reverberate in this 16-seat dining room Sat 10:00 - 04:00, Sun 11:00 - 04:00. (€2-4).
maybe that’s why German leaders bring visiting heads of in a 18th-centur y palace. Ingredients from the world
Weihenstephaner G-3, Neue Promenade 5, MI, state here when everything in Mitte is too noisy and crowded. over imaginativel y add to the regional dishes set on Döner Imbiss F-5, Gneisenaustr. 85 (corner Zossen-
MHackescher Markt, tel. 25 76 28 71. This is the one Mikhail Gorbachev visited in 1989, and Gerhard Schröder silver charges. Be sure to make reser vations for this er Str), KB, MGneisenaustr., tel. 691 78 19. Chicken,
eatery on the sunny square next to the Hackescher Markt brought Jacques Chirac over for the Berlin specialities, special setting. Q Open 18:00 - 24:00. Closed Mon, not lamb, is what’s making the rounds on the skewer here.
train station that delivers a “hey, this is Germany!” experi- including Eisbein, in 2003. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (€27-28). ARB Choose from garlic, herb, or spicy sauce and various salad
ence. Part of the Wiehenstephaner brewery, the restaurant Sun. (€8 - 13). ARGB toppings - it’s a bargain at under €2. One man behind the
has dirndel-clad waitresses who serve simple and satisfying Oranium F-3, Oranienburger Str. 33-34, MOranien- stand here speaks English, and if the delicious food wasn’t
reason enough, his smile and friendly service would keep
Bavarian specialities (like white sausages). The outdoor
tables have typical blue-and-white checked tablecloths; Indian burger Str., tel. 30 88 29 67, www.oranium.de. Just down
the street from the Neue Synagoge, Oranium is a pleasant them coming back anyway. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00. (€3-6).
inside, the rooms are rustic but elegant. A singing zither Aapka G-2, Kastanienallee 50, MRosenthaler Platz, all-day café/restaurant/bar with plenty of dark wood, a long
musician sits in the front room and jazz takes place in tel. 44 01 04 94, www.aapka.de. Located on a pretty bar and pretty lights. There are great breakfasts (served until Fishing For Compliments G-2, Kastanienallee 23,
the back courtyard on Monday. Q Open 11:00 - 23:00. street corner near trendy Zionskirchplatz, Aapka offers 16:00), lunches and good-value dinner options. The menu is PB, MEberswalder Str.. Okay, so it’s not exactly a chippy
(€6-14). AEB healthy vegetarian, curry and grill dishes in a relaxed bar and as international as it can get; for something special try the in Scarborough or Blackpool, but they’re trying. One of only
restaurant with outside seating. You can drop by for the daily German Wrap - wrapped around two kinds of sausage - or a handful of fish ‘n chip take-aways in Berlin, it’s really not
Zum Nussbaum G-3, Am Nussbaum 3, MI, MK- changing lunch menu and on Sunday join the young Prenzl’ the chicken with strawberry/chili sauce. Wash it all down bad at all. The prices are reasonable, and the fish is fresh
losterstr., tel. 242 30 95. What seems a charming old Berg crowd for a relaxed brunch. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00, Sun with a cocktail or two. QOpen 09:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 and well cooked. It fails on the chips though, which are
German restaurant is in fact a charming new German res- 11:00 - 01:00. - 03:00. (€3-15). closer to wimpy French fries than big, fat English wedges.

Mirchi F-2/3, Oranienburgerstr. 50, MI, MOranien- Refugium F-3, Gendarmenmarkt 5, MI, MStadtmitte, Konnopkes Imbiss G-1, Schönhauser Allee 44a, PB,
Food with a view burger Tor, tel. 28 44 44 82. Mirchi offers Indian and tel. 229 16 61, www.restaurant-refugium.de. Set in the MEberswalder Str., tel. 442 77 65. The Ziervogel family
started selling their famous Wursts on October 4, 1930, a
Singaporean fusion cuisine, tamed down to suit the Ger- rear of the French Church on Gendarmenmarkt and named
When your dinner partner just isn’t that interesting, man palette, but nevertheless pleasing. The Tageskarte after the Huguenot refugees who erected the church, this day that has unluckily come to coincide with International
these restaurants at least have a nice view to look at. lunch menu (until 17:00) is especially attractive, with elegant Baroque eatery serves a good variety of dishes at Animal Day. This simple shack is a convenient stop for those
vegetarian, chicken and lamb options priced €4-7; in the low prices (considering the top location, anyway). QOpen spilling out of the Eberswalder Straße U-Bahn; the Imbiss is
Käfer Dachgar ten F-3, Platz der Republik 1 evenings the selection gets wider and dearer. Q Open from 11:00. (€12,80-32). AB just south underneath the tracks. To eat your Currywurst like
(Reichstag), TG, MUnter den Linden, tel. 22 62 99 12:00 - 24:00. Also at (H-3) Oranienstr. 204, KB, tel. 61 a true native, ask for it darmlos (without the intestine wrap-
33, www.feinkost-kaefer.de. When time is money, you 62 99 93. (€4-20). AB Reinhardt’s G-3, Poststr. 28, MI, MKlosterstr., tel. ping, please). QOpen 06:00 - 20:00. Closed Sat, Sun. (€3-6).
may as well spend it on a good meal while visiting the 242 52 95. Reinhardt’s friendly staff can whisk a coffee
Reichstag dome. The line to get into the building can mean
International to your table in no time, or if you’re here for the food, one
an hour-long wait, but those with a restaurant reservation
can use the side entrance and be whisked to their meal Alberts H-3, Karl-Marx-Allee 35, MI, MSchilling-
of the light meals. The large restaurant is situated in the
Nikolaiviertel, and is well-positioned for a break during a city Italian
and a 180-degree view of eastern Berlin. The restaurant straße, tel. 24 72 72 50, www.alberts-berlin.com. walk. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. (€10-20). AB Al Contadino Sotto Le Stelle G-2, Auguststr. 34, MI,
is run by Käfer, a gourmet-foods specialist from Munich. A bustling, modern café, lounge bar, club and restaurant MRosenthaler Pl., tel. 281 90 23, info@alcontadino.com,
German specialities are highlighted and a regional name with a large terrace that appeals to breakfasting singles, Suppenbörse F-3, Dorotheenstr. 43, MI, MFriedrich- www.alcontadino.com. On nights when other restaurants
appears in most main course listings. The last orders lunching businessmen as well as partying youngsters. str., tel. 20 64 95 98, www.suppenboerse.de. A stand-up on the street have more staff than guests, this mouthful of an
are taken at 21:30. Q Open for Breakfast 09:00-10:15; There’s a great weekend brunch buffet, pasta on Mon- or takeaway soup joint, with a wide variety of liquid lunches. Italian restaurant has to turn passersby away. The entrance
Lunch 12:00-14:30; Desserts 15:30-16:30; Dinner days, an all you can eat barbecue feast on Wednesdays Get the world watered down in a bowl with the Mexican, Thai, looks like that of an apartment, and you get to squeeze by
18:30-24:00. (€7-26). AB and for internet junkies free wifi with laptops available for French or local soups. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00, Sat 12:00 - the kitchen before dropping down into the dining room visible
guests. Q Open Mon.-Fri. 09:00 - open end; Sat.-Sun. 18:00. Closed Sun. (€4). S from the street. QOpen 18.00 - 24.00. (€11-20). PTNG
Telecafé (TV Tower) G-3, Panorama Str., MI, MAl- 10:00 - open end
Traube F-2, Reinhardtstr. 33, MI, MFriedrichstr.,
exanderpl., tel. 242 33 33, www.berlinerfernsehturm.
de. This rotating restaurant at 207 metres gives you a spin Ganymed F-3, Schiffbauerdamm 5, MI, MFriedrichstr., tel. 27 87 93 93, www.traube-berlin.de. A new wine Japanese
around the city in 30 minutes. It’s a relaxed Tower of Babel, tel. 28 59 90 46, www.ganymed-brasserie.de. Before restaurant ser ving gourmet ‘Alpine’ cuisine together Sushi Circle F-3, Französische Str. 48, MI, MFranzö-
where the menu makes foreign visitors feel at home with or after a Brecht play at the beloved Berliner Ensemble, with an excellent range of wines in an elegant building sische Str., tel. 20 38 79 60. This sushi bar caters less
Chinese, Italian, Indian, and Mexican dishes among the Ger- take your mind off of the oppressed and enjoy oysters from 1840. Chef cook Kevin Nathan conjures up ex- to the guests of the upscale hotels in the area and more to
man listings. Daily specials are the best prepared; the soups from Brittany, Provence lamb dishes, or pizza-like, Alsatian traordinar y cross-over dishes from southern Germany, shoppers and office workers on the go. If you’re not quick
and the red cabbage are delicious. Do make reservations, or Flammekuchen at this brasserie. The terrace has a view Elsas, Switzerland and Austria. Guests at ‘Grape’ can enough to grab the pieces passing by on the bar’s conveyor
wait for a table while circling the observation level. QOpen of the Spree and the trains pulling into Friedrichstraße. choose from a la car te dishes or compose their own belt, be patient and it will circle around again. If not, ask the
10:00 - 23:30. Entrance fee €8.50. (€9-14). E QOpen 11:30 - 02:00. Kitchen from 12:00 until 24:00. menus, with our without wines. Q Open 12:00 - 15:00, sushi chef stuck in the middle to whip a request off for you.
(€7 - 22). AB 18:00-23:45. Closed Sun. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 18:00 - 23:00. (€1-7).

Berlin In Your Pocket berlin.inyourpocket.com berlin.inyourpocket.com December 2009 - January 2010


36 NIGHTLIFE IN MITTE NIGHTLIFE IN MITTE 37

In this chapter, we give you the rundown of options in Mitte. walking in. The loft’s doorways once led to massage rooms
but now open onto a communal floor, where groups will con- Clubs
Dante G-3, Am Zwirngraben 8-10, MHackescher Markt,
Bars tinue sitting in circles on the wall-to-wall carpeting until their
drinking finances more furnishings. QOpen 18:30 - 02:00, tel. 24727401, info@dante-club.de, www.dante-club.de.
AM to PM G-3, Am Zwirngraben 2, MI, MHackescher Fri, Sat 18:30 - 06:00. The Dante on Hackescher Markt is a renowned club, interna-
Markt, tel. 24 08 53 01, www.amtopm.de. Finally, a bar tional restaurant and popular location for events all in one. In the
that owns up to Berlin’s overblown reputation for nonstop Belushi’s Bar G-2, Rosa Luxemburg Str. 39-41, centre of the lively capital city, it has a large summer terrace and
nightlife. Unlike the S-Bahn that rumbles above its vaulted MRosa-Luxemburg-Platz, www.belushis.com. Belushi’s an atmospheric open air lounge. On the Monday, Wednesday, Fri-
ceiling, this bar runs 24 hours. A café by day, AM to PM calls is a home away from home for sports fans, beer lovers, and day and Saturday club nights, Dante offers the perfect setting for
in its bartenders at 18:00 and DJs spin every night on the connoisseurs of delicious home-made burgers. Based on the Berliners and visitors to celebrate a party in good company. The
subterranean dance floor. Q Open 24hrs. American sports bar, this friendly chain pub especially caters latest music and a professional team create a party atmosphere
for English speakers and anyone who can’t bear to miss a Dante till the early morning hours. QOpen from 09:00.
Aqua Lounge G-3, Karl-Liebknecht-Str. 3, tel. 238 28 crucial match. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 02:00.
34 14, fax 238 28 10, info@aqualounge-berlin.de, www. range of over 150 cocktails is available daily for the thirsty. Grüner Salon G-2, Volksbühne, Rosa-Luxemburg-Pl.
aqualounge-berlin.de. The Aqua Lounge is a worthy addition Goldman’s Bar G-2, Weinbergsweg 1a, MI, MRosen- In summer, the terrace offers great views of the landmark TV 2, MI, MRosa-Luxemburg-Pl., tel. 24 59 89 36, www.
to Berlin’s nightlife. There’s an amazing selection of drinks, thaler Pl., tel. (+49)(0)30 28 39 14 33. For a real tourist tower. QOpen 18:00 - 02:00. gruener-salon.de. Chandeliers dress up this occasional club
unrivalled cocktail creations and great music in this brilliantly information exchange, head to the basement of the Circus venue, talk-show stage, and cabaret. Grab your partner for
designed bar. Every Thursday from 22:00 to 01:30 there’s live hostel where backpackers trade tips over cocktails that are as Schoko-Laden G-2, Ackerstr. 169, MI, MRosenthaler standard evenings like Thursday Tango and Friday Swing. Q
Jazz music performed by the New York, New York Duo and a cheap as they come in Mitte. Bold post-30 visitors will like the Pl., tel. 282 65 27, www.schokoladen-mitte.de. An old Open Thu 21:00 - 04:00; Fri, Sat 23:00 - 04:00.
special guest. QOpen 20:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 20:00 - 03:00. Atari games from the late 1970s. Wednesday night is karaoke squat bar that cropped up when the Wall fell, this near-dive
night and quiz takes place Fridays. QOpen 21:00 - 01:00. puts on a diverse events calendar. If your German is up to Kaffee Burger G-2, Torstr. 60, MI, MRosa-Luxemburg-
Atrium Lobby Lounge & Bar G-3, Karl-Liebknecht-Str. snuff, come on Sunday for the funny group of guys dryly Pl., tel. 28 04 64 95, w w w.kaffeeburger.de. The
3, tel. 238 28 34 70, www.berlin.radissonsas.com. The Keyser Soze F-2, Tucholskystr. 33, MI, MOranienburg- reading short stories, spoofing pop songs, acting out skits patterned wallpaper and wood panelling has withstood
Atrium Lobby Lounge & Bar, underneath the spectacular er Str., tel. 28 59 94 89. Crap service, but this renowned and inventing sound effects. QOpen 20:00 - 04:00, Fri, Sat decades of the alternative scene’s smoke and its stuck-in-
AquaDom with its 2500 fishes swirling around, is the perfect bar is perfect on all other accounts. The food, drinks, 20s-30s 21:00 - 04:00, Sun 19:00 - 04:00. the-Socialist-Sixties-look is perfect for DJ/author Vladimir
place to meet up with friends for coffee and cake, light snacks crowd, location, mysterious name, men’s toilets and the fact Kaminer’s wild and sweaty Russendisko nights. Happenings
or to enjoy delicious cocktails to unwind after a busy day. that Toast Hawaii is listed under German specialities all add Sharon Stonewall G-3, Kleine Präsidentenstr. 3, like poetry slams and jams start evenings that end with
QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. to its greatness. We can recommend the lamb chop, and MHackescher Markt, tel. (+49)(0)30 24 08 55 02, DJs spinning anything from Balkan and surf rock to samba.
Swabian specialities including Maultaschen (meat-filled ravioli, www.sharonstonewall.com. This is the rare stylish bar QOpen from 21:00. E
Bar an der Karl-Marx-Allee H-3, Karl-Marx-Allee 36, Wed only). QOpen 08:00 - 03:00. B calling all queers - men and women - but welcoming all oth-
MI, MSchillingstr., www.kma36.de. Poised to soak up ers too. They play silently, but the Hollywood films featuring Kingkongklub G-2, Brunnenstr. 173, MI, MRosentha-
the spill-off from Kino International across the street, this Kula Karma F-3, Dorotheenstr. 65, MI, MFriedrichstr., gay icons including the great Sharon Stonewall herself are ler Pl., tel. 28 59 85 38, www.king-kong-klub.de. The
nameless bar is the latest glass-box resident on the block. tel. 27 58 20 35, www.kulakarma-berlin.de. Apparently projected on a wall. Relax with a cocktail and watch Doris dark leather sofa units here are massive and if you squint,
The socialist-era building is all windows, so you can spy the the result of an explosion in a teenage girls’ room, this place Day chew out Rock Hudson. QOpen from 17:00, Sun from maybe the lounging blonde does look like she’s resting on the
crowd lining the low banquettes around the perimeter before has happily clashing pinks and oranges, with golden stripes 18:00. Closed Mon. big gorilla’s palm. It depends on what DJ is spinning, but you’ll
spiralling over the walls. You are the guru, and can indulge in occasionally find a crowd pushing the end of their clubbing
lounging, dining or chilling together with Mitte’s hip crowd. Silberfisch F-3, Oranienburger Str. 37, MI, MOran- career, but still looking fierce while doing it. Q Open daily
Come here for the relaxed atmosphere and the great cock- ienburger Str., tel. (+49)(0)30 28 38 73 88. In this tiny, from 22:00 - open end
tails. QOpen 17:00 - 02:00. A cave-like setting, off-duty waiters mingle with people who
really shouldn’t be out that late. A DJ lays tracks from a pulpit Week-End Club G-3, Alexanderplatz 5, MAlexander-
Mitte Bar F-2, Oranienburger Str. 46, MI, MOranien- and people dance when the spirit so moves them. This is the platz, www.week-end-berlin.de. A club/bar/galerie/lounge
burger Tor. Respectable enough for people with spending best option in Mitte after other bars have closed. Be prepared set on the 12th floor of the beautifully hideous Haus des Rei-
power, yet shabby enough to fit seamlessly into the Mitte for screeching noises as patrons climb out into the early sens (the GDR state travel agency specialising in saying ‘no’)
bar scene. A relaxed patch by day for French breakfast morning sun. QOpen 22:00 - 06:00, Fri, Sat 20:00 - 08:00. on the corner of Otto-Braun-Straße. QOpen 23:00 - 04:00.
or coffee-slurping, the evenings become interesting, with Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Sun. €6-8.
cocktail-testing and on weekends DJs mixing house. QOpen Strandbad Mitte F-2, Kleine Hamburger Str. 16, MI,
10:00 - 01:00. MRosenthaler Pl., tel. 24 62 89 63, www.strandbad-
mitte.de. Off Auguststraße, Kleine Hamburger Straße dead Jazz clubs
Newton Bar F-3, Charlottenstr. 57, MI, MFranzösische ends against a fenced-in football pitch and Strandbad where b-flat G-2, Rosenthaler Str. 13, MI, MWeinmeisterstr.,
Str., tel. 20 29 54 21, www.newton-bar.de. Men smoke all the cool thirty-something kids come with their bikes (and tel. 283 31 23/280 63 49, www.b-flat-berlin.de. For
cigars beneath Helmut Newton’s life-size shots of nude Ama- for children there’s also a playground opposite). QOpen once, a spacious jazz club with unobstructed sightlines to
zons and their dates sip expertly made cocktails. Dress sharp 09:00 - 02:00. the stage. Check the blackboard for the small snacks avail-
to compliment all the black leather and dark green marble. able; cocktails run €6-7. Musicians come from all over the
QOpen 10:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 04:00. planet, and Wednesday features a free local jam session.
Sunday is Tango night, when a DJ sets couples off into their
Reingold F-2, Novalisstr. 11, MI, MOranienburger Tor, passionately rigid embraces. QOpen 21:00 - 00:30, Fri, Sat
tel. 28 38 76 76, www.reingold.de. A lounge glowing in 22:00 - 00:30. E
amber tones recalls the thirties with an oversize drawing of
Thomas Mann’s forlorn offspring, Klaus and Erika, and leather
and velvet seating. Though it often has a DJ, no one dances Pubs
here. It’s a setting for making stationary moves on your date, Kilkenny Irish Pub G-3, Am Zwirngraben 17-20,
or your tapas. QOpen 19:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 19:00 - 04:00. MHackescher Markt, tel. 2832084, www.kilkenny-pub.
Closed Mon, Sun. de. The 3 large rooms directly in the train station Hackescher
Markt offer more than enough space for natives and tourists
Rivabar G-3, Dircksenstrasse, Bogen 142, MAlexan- to meet & mingle, drink, party and, of course, follow inter-
derplatz, tel. 24 72 26 88, www.riva-berlin.de. Named national sporting events live. 2 large TVs and 2 big screens
after the Italian football god who literally kicked Germany out make sure that, even in the farthest corner, you won’t miss
of the 1970 World Cup, Riva has a fantastic glowing drinks bar a single goal. Irish & German beer, whiskey, and other nice
in the centre of the gaily painted railway viaduct arch that it’s cold beverages flow more freely than the nearby Spree river.
housed in. DJ Fritz spins discs on weekend nights, and the Kilkenny Irish Pub QOpen from 10:00.

Berlin In Your Pocket berlin.inyourpocket.com berlin.inyourpocket.com December 2009 - January 2010


38 FOOD & DRINK AROUND TOWN FOOD & DRINK AROUND TOWN 39

For a night out with the locals, head out into a Kiez, the generic
term for a particularly lively sub-neighbourhood of a city district. Symbol key
Eating out and bar hopping is easy in Berlin because there CAFÉ & COCKTAILBAR
are so many restaurants, bars, pubs and clubs to dip and dive P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted
your way through. With all the choices in each neighbourhood, E Live music S Take away
people tend to stick to one area once the night begins (or if
they’re exhausted from the sightseeing, to stay close to their R Internet U Facilities for the disabled
hotel). Though there’s a range of places in each district, bars in G Non-smoking areas L Guarded parking
Potsdamer Platz and western Berlin are often more clean-cut
and targeted at the over-30 set. Prenzlauer Berg and Kreuz- O Casino M Nearest U/S-Bahn station
berg have a mix of hole-in-the-wall and trendy venues, while
Friedrichshain is really for the unwashed and adventurous.

Prenzlauer Berg
Cafés
Immer gern H-1, Dunckerstr. 10, PB, MEberswalder
Str., tel. 55 14 57 85, www.immergern.de. A groovy café
and cocktail bar on the sunny side of trendy Helmholtzplatz
square. Sink into the comfy couches for coffee, cakes and
crepes during the day, or mingle with the locals later on in
the day when DJs and baristas spin disks and liquor bottles.
Smoking room provided.QOpen from 12:00.

Kaffee Fröhlich H-2, Belforter Str. 22, PB, MSenefelder THE MOST POPULAR BAR IN PRENZLAUER BERG
Pl., tel. 41 72 52 42. Twenty-two years ago, owner Herr NEAR THE METRO STATION EBERSWALDER STRASSE
Daska planted the trees that shade your Czech or German
beer. Patronized by neighbourhood intelligentsia, grannies and DUNCKERSTR. 10 I 10437 BERLIN I WWW.IMMERGERN.DE
young families, Kaffee Fröhlich isn’t a trendy hotspot, but a
place where Daska plans to grow old. The menu of new and
12 AT NOON - OPEN END
Die Schule
traditional Berlin cuisine changes daily and all sauces and
condiments are house-made. Breakfast is served until 16:00 International
and the last call for supper is 23:00. Feel free to bring your Nocti Vagus G-2, Saarbrücker Str. 36, PB, MSenefelder
favorite record and lay it on the turntable. Q Open 12:00 - Platz, tel. 74 74 91 23, www.noctivagus.de. Fabulous offer Sundays, Tres Tapas is one of only a handful of Spanish Wohnzimmer H-1, Lettestr. 6, PB, MEberwalder Str.,
02:00; Sun 10:00 - 02:00. NB - an utterly dark restaurant. Blind and visually impaired restaurants in Prenzlauer Berg, and probably one of the best. tel. 445 54 58, www.wohnzimmer-bar.de. If the TV show
waiters will seat you safely at your table, where you can Popular for its fresh fish dishes, it also tempts its guests with Friends had to relocate to Berlin, Phoebe would vote to hang out
German stimulate all senses other than sight with the food and the
live performances. Make reservations, mention if you’re an
a wide range of tapas, decent to excellent Spanish wines, and
young, friendly waiting staff.QOpen 17:00 - 02:00.
here. The large ‘living room’ is ideally set up for meeting people.
Stools, chairs and GDR-era tables are constantly being shuffled
Metzer Eck G-2, Metzer Str. 33, PB, MSenefelder Pl., English-speaker, and plan to spend at least two hours here. to make room for the rumpled but attractive crowds. There’s
QOpen 18:00 - 24:00. (€28-50). AEG coffee and pastries in the morning. QOpen 09:00 - 04:00.
tel. 442 76 56, www.metzer-eck.de. Opened 1913, time
seems to have stood still in the oldest tavern in Prenzlauer Bars
Fluido H-2, Christburger Str. 6, MSenefelder Platz, tel.
Berg - and that’s the way the regulars like it. The Eck serves
inexpensive Berlin dishes - sausages, Boulette (hamburger), Italian 44 04 39 02. This ‘Bar di Notte’ is one of the best places Clubs
and Bratkartoffel (fried potatoes), and has a letter from artist Pizzeria i Due Forni G-2, Schönhauser Allee 12, in Prenzlauer Berg for night owls to enjoy some of the finest Geburtstagsklub H-2, Am Friedrichshain 33, PB,
Heinrich Zille to the first tavern owner hanging on the back wall, MSenefelder Platz, tel. 44 01 73 33. Atypical for Berlin, cocktails in town. The trick is to choose quickly: you can MRosa-Luxemburg-Pl., tel. 42 02 14 05, www.geburt-
as well as a savings box that regulars once contributed to. Q this Italian restaurant is not very chic, the service is rather easily lose precious drinking time while trawling through the stagsklub.de. Twenty year-olds fill the two low-ceilinged
Open 16:00 - 01:00; Sat 18:00 - 01:00. Closed Sun. (€5-9). cheeky, and the whole place has the feel of an overcrowded myriad liquid delights on offer. The staff know their stuff, the rooms of this otherwise spacious cellar. Like at many clubs
student canteen in Rome. But the cheap and cheerful pizza ingredients are first class, and there are snacks available in Berlin, you have to brave the walk down a dark courtyard.
Die Schule G-2, Kastanienallee 82, MEberswalder is highly praised, and the lively, convivial atmosphere of i Due for those needing sustenance after the third Mojito.QOpen The line-up changes every weekend. Q Fri, Sat, Sun 23:00
Str, tel. (+49)(0)30 780089-550, www.gls-restaurant. Forni is the perfect primer for a night out on the town.QOpen 20:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 20:00 - 04:00. B - 06:00.
de. Modern and light German food on Berlin´s catwalk no.1: 12:00 - 24:00. UB
Kastanienallee aka „casting alley“ is a perfect place to watch
Berlin street style. „Die Schule“ has a terrace facing Kastani-
enallee and the airy interiors belie that these rooms used to Latin American
be classrooms (hence the name). You can have all the German Frida Kahlo H-1, Lychener Str. 37, MEberswalder Str.,
food classics, and even better: you can even have them all at tel. (+49)(0)30 445 70 16, www.fridakahlo.de. A gastro-
once: try “German Kleinigkeiten”, small samples of everything nomic homage to the legendary Mexican painter, Frida Kahlo
the German cuisine is famous for. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. is one of the most established eateries in Prenzlauer Berg.
Offering deliciously authentic Mexican dishes as well as special
Zander G-2, Kollwitzstr. 50, MSenefelder Platz, tel. 44 brunch and daytime snacks, this tastefully decorated restau-
05 76 78, www.zander-restaurant.de. This award-winning rant on leafy Helmholtzplatz is open from late morning until
restaurant epitomizes the culinary revival of east Berlin: it’s after midnight.QOpen 09:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 03:00.
a fine blend of tradition, innovation, and casual professional-
ism. Using mainly regional products, Zander serves mouth-
watering German and international cuisine and excellent Spanish
wines in a stylish and intimate setting. Though the zander is Tres Tapas H-1, Lychener Str. 30, MEberswalder Str.,
a house speciality, the perfectly-composed set menus are tel. (+49)(0)30 41 71 57 18, www.tres-tapas.de. Open
highly recommended. QOpen 18:00 - 01:00. Closed Mon. B from early evening to early morning, with a Spanish brunch on Frida Kahlo Tres Tapas

Berlin In Your Pocket berlin.inyourpocket.com berlin.inyourpocket.com December 2009 - January 2010


40 FOOD & DRINK AROUND TOWN FOOD & DRINK AROUND TOWN 41

Western Berlin
Some of Berlin’s best restaurants reside in hotels in
the Charlottenburg district (C-3), and there are plenty
SUKSAN
of esteemed chef-owned restaurants as well. Places in Sawatdi Kap – welcome to Suksan. Experience a
Schöneberg (D-4) and western Tiergarten (D-3) are temple for Thai food and cooking culture in the
also listed here. West Berliners tend to be more affluent heart of West Berlin, offering varied dishes with
and fashion-conscious, and the bar and restaurant scene captivating aromas and tasty combinations that
caters to that. Young people go out here too, but those will tickle the palate. Quality, freshness, and
over thirty will appreciate the more professional service, healthy and original ingredients are central to our
more mature company, and the low count of penny- dishes, without losing sight of modern cuisine.
pinching hipsters. Under bamboo roofs, Suksan seats over 60 guests
in Thai settings. Let us take you on a culinary trip
to the land of smiles.
American
Hard Rock Café C-4, Meinekestr. 21, CB, MUhland-
str., tel. 88 46 20, www.hard-rock-cafe.de. The T-shirts
sold at this restaurant must be among the best-recognised
on the planet. This is the place to head to meet both foreign-
ers and locals looking for huge piles of food (ranging from
burgers and pasta to Tex-Mex) and staff who actually like
their jobs. The decoration is similar to that of all restaurants
in the chain - crammed with popstar memorabilia such as
guitars, records and clothing. And yes, they do occasionally
play hard rock. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00.
(€8-17). PAEGB

Julep’s New York Bar & Restaurant B-4, Gie-


sebrechtstr. 3, CB, MAdenauerpl., tel. 881 88 23, Ansbacherstrasse 4
www.juleps-berlin.de. The concept is to emulate an old (corner of Kurfürstenstrasse)
New York speakeasy - an illegal bar during the prohibi- tel. 21 01 86 73, www.suksan.de.
tion years in the U.S. - but what law-dodging drinker was
ever privilege to home-baked bread, house-smoked fish
and chicken, and friendly ser vice? Don’t expect a bar Asian
Icon G-1, Cantianstr. 15, PB, MEberswalder Str., menu: the caliber of the kitchen overseen by a culinar y Aaina Charlottenburg A-2, Stülpnagelstr. 2, U Kai-
www.iconberlin.de. The best drum n’ bass DJs in Europe, institute-trained New Jersey native matches that of the serdamm, tel. 30 20 41 27, www.aaina.de. Bringing the
including London’s Optical and Grooverider, descend into the exper tly made cocktails. Even a simple appetizer like far east to western Berlin, Aaina serves a surprising mix of
cavernous cellars of a brewery (built 1898) on Saturday night. potato chips comes homemade with lemon-pepper oil Indian, Singaporean, Malaysian and Thai dishes in vibrant
Between hits on the cement dance floor, take it easy in the and rosemar y sea salt. Menu items change ever y six Asian setting. Try the tandoor oven bread or chicken, the
lounge areas with low sofas or high back padded benches. weeks and ever y thing is prepared fresh to order. Strip Singaporean special noodles or the fish with hot Thai curry.
Friday night is for electric, hip hop, and funk fans. Berlin DJs loin and rib eye steak come in S, M, and L. Q Open Near the Messe trade fair centre.QOpen 11:30 - 24:00.
get to shake their reputation and play whatever they want on 17:00 - 24:00. €9-16.30.
Tuesday Electric Icon nights. Q Open Tue, Fri & Sat 23:00 - Suksan D-4, Ansbacher Str. 4, SB, MWittenbergplatz,
07:00. Admission €3-6. Route 66 C-4, Pariser Str. 44, WD, MUhlandstr., tel. tel. 21 01 86 73, www.suksan.de. A short stroll from west
883 16 02, www.route66diner.de. Kudos to this dual Berlin’s shops and sights, Suksan is a cosy Thai restaurant
Soda Club Schönhauser Allee 36, tel. 44 31 51 55, level über-diner of tableside jukeboxes and murals of Route decorated with ample bamboo poles and palmleaf roofs.
info@soda-berlin.de, www.soda-berlin.de. In the court- 66 attractions. This joint does a homesick American good, Drop by for the lunch specials, or dine on spicey Thai dishes
yard of the Kulturbrauerei complex, Soda is a fun club with even if the burgers aren’t grilled. The local twenty-somethings accompanied by wine or fresh coconut milk, perhaps followed

Soda
an enthusiastic regular crowd. Salsa is played on Thursdays filling the booths appreciate the affordable and huge Tex-Mex by a cocktail. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00,
and Sundays (starting off with a free lesson hour), and on dishes. QOpen 09:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 05:00, Sun Sun 17:00 - 23:00.
Fridays and Saturdays there’s five dancefloors with electro, 10:00 - 05:00. (€5-12). AGB
crossover, black and dance classics played - and girls get in
for free till 01:00. Check the website for special events.Q
Open Thu-Sun 19:00 - 04:00.

Club
House - R´n´B - Soul
Danceclassics - electro
KulturBrauerei Soda Club Aaina Charlottenburg Suksan

Berlin In Your Pocket berlin.inyourpocket.com berlin.inyourpocket.com December 2009 - January 2010


42 FOOD & DRINK AROUND TOWN FOOD & DRINK AROUND TOWN 43

Leysieffer C-4, Kurfürstendamm 218, CB, MUhlandstr.,


tel. 885 74 80, www.leysieffer.de. If you’re going to do it
just once in Berlin, have your cake here. For those who really
shouldn’t, you can shave off at least a euro by purchasing one
of the day-old pastries (how they could not be sold out every
day is cause for wonder). This chocolate purveyor occupies
the former Chinese embassy. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Sat
10:00 - 19:00, Sun 11:00 - 19:00. B

Tim’s Canadian Deli D-4, Maaßenstr. 14, SB, MNol-


lendorfpl., tel. 21 75 69 60. It looks good, the food and
service are great and the streetcorner setting is enviable,
but we can’t figure out from the German-language menu
what exactly is Canadian about Tim’s, apart from the maple
syrup pancakes (€5.10) and fresh bagels served all day.
QOpen 08:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 03:00, Sun 09:00
Café im Literaturhaus - 01:00. AB

list is extensive). Wines and other products from Ottenthal


such as pumpkinseed oil, are available for purchase. This Fine dining
is truly one of our favourite spots. QOpen 18:00 - 24:00. Die Quadriga C-4, Eislebener Str. 14 (Hotel Branden-
(€14-18). AB burger Hof), WD, MAugsburger Str., tel. 21 40 56 50,
www.brandenburger-hof.com. Chef Bobby Bräuer arrived
Schnitzelei B-3, Röntgenstr. 7, CB, MRichard- with his Michelin star from the Victoria in Düsseldorf. The
Wagner-Pl, tel. 34 70 27 78, www.schnitzelei.de. main room of the intimate restaurant is in the style of a
Nearly as far from central Berlin as Austria, Schnitzelei classic Berlin salon, with paintings from the Berlin Seces-
is well off the beaten track, but well worth looking up. No sionist movement and KPM porcelain. The cherrywood chair
tacky alpine decorations here, but a light take on the genre, design is by Frank Lloyd Wright, dating to 1904. QOpen
with oak patterns and subdued lighting creating a good 19:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. Tue-Fri 12:00-14:00 (€26-32).
vibe. There are delicious schnitzels in different variations, ARE h
though you may try the German tapas or have the great
Sunday brunch buffet. QOpen 16:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun First Floor D-4, Budapester Str. 45 (Hotel Palace), CB,
12:00 - 24:00. (€8-15). MZoologischer Garten, tel. 25 02 10 20, www.palace.
de. A Michelin star has been the beacon over Matthias Buch- Bourse Armadillo Building AM
Cafés holz’s restaurant for years now, and visiting gourmands who
can’t move well after a seven-course meal make a point of of Prussia, where buxom waitresses plonk down hearty
Café de Paris D-4, Budapester Str. 35, CB, MWitten-
Austrian bergplatz, tel. 25 79 44 87. Opposite the zoo aquarium and
staying at the Hotel Palace, which also sponsors culinary
events throughout the year. The cuisine has touches of the
German dishes and big glasses of Löwenbräu, Radler and
Franziskaner beer, to the merry tune of oompah-music. How
Ottenthal C-4, Kantstr. 153, CB, MUhlandstr., tel. 313 with a large terrace overlooking a square, this French-owned Far East and turbot with caviar or prawn is often on the menu. much more german can it get? Find the Bavarium on the
31 62, www.ottenthal.de. The pleasure in this intimate, café is a typical Parisian bistro in central Berlin. Specialising Q Open Mon. - Fri. 12:00-15:00, 18:30-23:00 and Wed., Sat. lower level of the Europa-Center, near the Gedächtniskirche.
classy bistro is that of fresh, seasonal ingredients, often in entrecôte charolaise, merguez maison, quiches lorraines and Sun. 18:30-23:00. (€34-36). PA h QOpen 12:00 - 24:00.
from the owner’s home town, Ottenthal. Daily specials might and coq au vin, the café is also known for its home-made
include foam of goose liver or venison pie with apple-celery pâtisseries. Popular with bankers, travellers and lovers of life. Hugos D-4, Budapester Str. 2 (InterContinental), CB, Forsthaus Paulsborn Hüttenweg 90, MOskar-
salad. The portion of Wiener Schnitzel could feed two. Service QOpen 08:30 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun. AUG MZoologischer Garten, tel. 26 02 12 63, www.hugos- Helene-Heim, tel. 818 19 10. An impressive neogothic
is excellent, and you can rely on wine recommendations (the restaurant.de. The InterConti adopted the American floor hunting lodge near the Grunewaldsee lake, serving tradi-
Café im Literaturhaus C-4, numbering system for its Michelin-starred French restaurant, tional German food and game specialities (fresh in season)
100m to KaDeWe and ZOO Berlin Fasanenstr. 23, CB, MUhlandstr., placing Hugos on the 14th (not 13th) floor and shortening its including boar and deer in the large dining hall with its cosy
tel. 882 54 14. Some guests may name from Zum Hugenotten. Named restaurant of the year fireplace. There’s quality old-fashioned service, just the
be sporting three-piece suits, straw by Feinschmecker magazine, its narrow dining room has a way granny appreciates it. In summer, sit on the terrace
TRAVEL FAR. hats, polished canes and freshly
fluffed pups, but you don’t have to be
dazzling view across the park to Potsdamer Platz. Heavy
menus reveal that chef Thomas Kammeier focuses on just
beneath the chestnut trees to enjoy the peace. QOpen
11:00 - 23:00, Sun 09:00 - 23:00.
all that precious about eating at this a few main courses; three fish and three meat dishes. The
EAT AT HOME.
RESTAURANT & COCKTAIL LOUNGE
literary hangout. Food (served until
24:00) runs from cheap sandwiches
€4 appetiser with Iranian caviar stands out for its single
digit - but it’s per gram. QOpen 18:00 - 23:30. Closed Sun.
for aspiring writers and critics, to lamb. (€33 and up). A h
The 19th-century building has airy
rooms that are pleasant to dine in on
a sunny day. Adjacent is a well-stocked German
bookstore. QOpen 09:30 - 01:00. April D-5, Winterfeldstr. 56, SB, MNollendorfpl., tel.
(€5-17). GB (+49)(0)30 216 88 69. Children are welcome in this
restaurant in gay Schöneberg. There’s even a special
ORIGINAL Grenander Morning Glory D-4, menu for them. This bistro is great value with a generous
Wittenbergplatz 3a, MWitten- appetiser plate for two and specials including delicious
THAI bergpl., tel. 23 62 84 36, www. rack of lamb. The dining is a bit more formal out back,
FOOD grenander.de. Pastries, muffins, where tables get the whi te-linen treatment. Q Open
croissants and rolls lie in waiting at 10:00 - 24:00. (€5-14).
Ansbacher Strasse 4 Telefon 030.21 01 86 73 the counter of this modern, earth-
Ecke Kurfürstenstrasse Telefax 030.21 01 86 88 tone café. Great for breakfast, lunch Bavarium D-4, Tauentzienstr. 9-12, Europa-Center,
U-Bhf Wittenbergplatz www.suksan.de or indeed something else to glorify MKurfürstendamm, tel. 261 43 97, www.bavarium-
your morning.QOpen 08:00 - 22:00. berlin.de. A traditional Bavarian restaurant in the heart Bavarium

Berlin In Your Pocket berlin.inyourpocket.com berlin.inyourpocket.com December 2009 - January 2010


44 FOOD & DRINK AROUND TOWN FOOD & DRINK AROUND TOWN 45

Over 100 years of comfort and quality


Traditional German
cuisine
Mon-Fri 12:00-24:00
Sat, Sun, Holidays 10:00-24:00

Tel. 030-881 70 40
Bleibtreustr. 48a
Berlin-Charlottenburg
www.zillemarkt.de
Renger-Patzsch
Knese C-4, Knesebeckstr. 63, MUhlandstr., tel. 88 41 southwest side of Viktoria-Luise-Platz. Schnitzel variations, different sizes up to 360gr), Asado offers various other meat
34 48, www.restaurant-knese.de. Alt-Berliner, traditional Berliner Eisbein (pork knuckle with pea puree, sauerkraut, and seafood dishes, all at reasonable prices. Drop by on
‘Old Berlin’ cuisine, is on offer at rustic Knese. Try the Königs- and boiled potatoes), Oma’s Rote Grütze (a vanilla pudding Thursday (from September to May) for all-you-can-eat ribs.
berger Klopse, meatballs with potatoes, the pork knuckle or with stewed red berries), and warm apple strudel make up QOpen 11:00 - 24:00.
the calf liver with apples, onions and potatoes for a taste of the menu of traditional Alt-Berlin and Brandenburg cuisine.
the Berlin of yesteryear at reasonable prices. There’s also a QOpen 17:00 - 24:00. (€4-12). Diekmann C-4, Meinekestr. 7, CB, MUhlandstr., tel.
Local cuisine selection of international meals and desserts for you to tuck 883 33 21, www.j-diekmann.de. Herr Diekmann was one
in to. Wash it all down with some good South-African wine. Zillemarkt C-4, Bleibtreustr. 48a, CB, MSavignyplatz, of the first to grace Berlin’s simple tables with some French
QOpen 11:00 - 01:00. AB tel. (+49)(0)30 881 70 40, www.zillemarkt.de. It’s easy finesse, even if it was in what began as a sandwich shop in
Wartburgstraße 54 to imagine Heinrich Zille, a local artist who became famous 1976. Shelves and drawers of an old Kolonialwaren store
Berlin - Schöneberg Marjellchen C-4, Mommsenstr. 9, CB, MUhlandstr., for his charming portraits of Berlin’s lower classes, stroll line the walls, and Diekmann still uses French techniques to
tel. (+49)(0)30 883 26 76. Not just any German restaurant, into this classically decorated family restaurant and order a primp excellent ingredients from throughout Germany. Always
Open daily from 18:00 Marjellchen serves traditional dishes from the formerly Ger- jellied boiled pork, the stuffed cabbage leaves or a Berliner on the menu are oysters and a selection of French cheeses.
Tel. 784 20 59 man territories of Eastern Prussia, now part of Poland, Lithu- currywurst. Zillemarkt serves everything from breakfast, If you can’t make up your mind on what to order, choose the
ania and Russia. Expect delicious Slavic-influenced dishes. Try coffee, home-made cakes and brunch to dinner, and the surprise three-course meal for €35. QOpen 12:00 - 23:30,
www.renger-patzsch.com the bartsch soup, followed by Köningsberger Klopse. Possibly glass-ceilinged bar has discounted cocktails in Happy Hour Sun 18:00 - 23:30. (€15-21). AB
the best thing about Marjellchen is the old-world feel; dark and serves the tasty home-made Zillebräu beer.QOpen
walls are hung with darker paintings, a record player crackles 12:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 24:00. Dressler C-4, Kurfürstendamm 207, CB, MUhlandstr.,
yesterday’s tunes and the owners stand at the bar. QOpen tel. 883 35 30, www.restaurant-dressler.de. A good place
17:00 - 23:30. Closed Sun. (€10-20). AB
International to go if you yearn to relive something of Berlin’s roaring 1920s.
Expect red seats, Art Deco wooden panelling, large mirrors,
Renger-Patzsch D-5, Wartburgstr. 54, MEisenacher Asado A-4, Messedamm 10, CB, MMesse, tel. 301 and good bistro and proper restaurant meals from a menu
Str., tel. 784 20 59, www.renger-patzsch.com. Formerly 60 38, www.asado-am-icc.de. Trade fair and conference that changes every week. Convenient for visiting the Story
known as the Storch, Renger-Patzsch offers upscale German visitors can escape work for a while at this Argentinian res- of Berlin exhibition, in the same building (see Sightseeing).
dining with a difference. The interior is kept casual and simple, taurant serving real gaucho food. Apart from huge steaks (in QOpen 08:00 - 01:00. (€15-27). AB
with all focus on the people and the food. Serving regional/
domestic cooking, you can order dishes such as sauteed mush- Duke D-4, Nürnberger Str. 50-55, MWittenbergplatz,
rooms in chervil sauce, pan-seared pike-perch and a selection Bavarium tel. 683 15 40 00, www.duke-restaurant.com. Creative
of tasty Alsatian flammekuchen. The Sunday roast is a true international crossover meals are served in the aptly named
feast, with wine-braised beef. QOpen 18:00 - 23:30. (€7-19). Bavarium is a part of Bavaria transplanted into the heart Ellington Hotel restaurant, set in a dazzling 1920s building near
of Berlin. This rustic patch of southern Germany offers the Ku’damm. The open kitchen allows you to watch chef cook
Schöneberger Weltlaterne D-5, Motzstr. 61, SB, the best of Bavaria without the long journey to get there. Carsten Obermayr create culinary treats with a Mediterranean
MViktoria-Luise-Pl., tel. 21 96 98 61, www.schoene- Sample local dishes such as Haxen, white sausages and and Asian influence, like roast monk fish with sugar pea or
berger-weltlaterne.de. Enough of the New East... come giant schnitzels, washed down with beers served by saddle of deer calf with glazed fennel. QOpen 11:30 - 23:00.
back to old West Berlin at this wood-panelled tavern on the waitresses in traditional garb.

Knese Bavarium, Tauentzienstr. 9-12 (Europa-Center com-


plex next to the Gedächtniskirche), www.bavarium-
Joe’s Wirtshaus zum Löwen C-4, Hardenbergstr. berlin.de. Open daily 12:00-24:00.
29, CB, MZoologischer Gar ten, tel. 262 10 20,
www.joes-berlin.de. This might be the only place in
Berlin to quaff Munich’s Löwenbräu by the litre, and it’s
definitely the only spot to sit in a leather booth from
the long defunct East German Palace of the Republic.
Furnishings from that parliament building’s Bierstube
are in one corner (distinguished wooden spheres the
size of bowling balls). Sit in the beer garden of tropical
potted plants while the weather holds and stop inside
for football screenings. The kitchen stops ser ving its
diverse cuisine (including Argentinean steaks) around
01:00, but the cocktails and drinks flow on after ward.
Joe’s can be rented out for group events as well. Q Open
10:00 - 01:00. (€7-16). AEB Zillemarkt Duke

Berlin In Your Pocket berlin.inyourpocket.com berlin.inyourpocket.com December 2009 - January 2010


46 FOOD & DRINK AROUND TOWN FOOD & DRINK AROUND TOWN 47

aqualight candleholders and an exposed heating duct - is ? 2@A. B ? . ; A @ < : : 2?4 .?A2 ; 0 < 0 8A. 6 9/ . ? 9< B ; 4 2
tolerated by the business people having a casual lunch and
the grandmothers chatting over coffee and cake. Vegetables
are cooked just right and the Königsberger Klöps (tender
meatballs with caper sauce) make for good comfort food.
QOpen 08:00 - 24:00, Sun 10:00 - 01:00. (€7-10).

Japanese
Yakitori Rokko C-5, Holsteinische Str. 40, Wilm-
ersdorf, MGünzelstr, tel. (+49)(0)30 86 39 73 60,
inf o@yakitori-rokko.de, w w w.yakitori-rokko.de.
Proving that there is much more to Japanese cuisine
than sushi, this authentic Japanese restaurant avoids
raw fish altogether and specialises in yakitori, delicious
Yakitori Rokko poultr y skewers grilled on flaming charcoal and accom- AndaLucia
panied with various other dishes. Tr y the udon (noodles
Einhorn C-4, Mommsenstr. 2, CB, MUhlandstr., tel. with duck and vegetables), kamameshi (rice with duck) oil plus the delicious homemade bread. Warm lighting
881 42 41, www.einhornonline.de. A fabulous vegetar- or bataa-yaki (pan fried chicken in butter and garlic). and dark wood make you feel at home, as does the at-
ian lunchbar, with standing space only. Every day there’s a You’ll soon see why the loyal Japanese clientele keeps tentive yet discreet service. With a wine cellar running
completely different menu, with European and Mediterranean returning here. Q Open 11:30 - 14:00 and 17:30-22:00. to 300 bottles and a heated terrace, Ciao is set to say
as well as Arab and Asian dishes. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Thu. A hello to Berlin’s Italian lovers. Q Open 18:00 - 24:00.
Closed Sat, Sun. (€3-6). Closed Mon. UBX

Florian C-4, Grolmanstr. 52, CB, MUhlandstr., tel. 313 Italian Zwölf Apostel C-4, Bleibtreustr. 49, CB, MUhlandstr.,
91 84, www.rflo.de. An especially popular restaurant on a Francucci’s B-4, Kurfurstendamm 90, CB, MAdenauer tel. (+49)(0)30 312 14 33/20 16 69 82, www.12-
street that’s crammed with eateries. Florian’s motto ‘make Platz, tel. 323 33 18, www.francucci.com. Fabulous food apostel.de. A worn, classic interior with a vague Tuscany/
food, not war’ could be extended with ‘not decoration,’ as it’s served in a popular Charlottenburg restaurant - once nomi- angel-theme and an open kitchen hide in the alley next to 1 6 ; 2 6 ; @ A F 9 2 .A / 2 ? 9 6 ; ¹ @ 5 < A A 2 @ A ; 2 D C 2 ; B 2  < ? 6 4 6 ; . 9
a simply furnished place with the emphasis on the food. The nated as one of the best Italian restaurants outside Italy by the S-Bahn tracks. The best thing about this place, after 0 B 9 6 ; . ? F 0 ? 2 .A 6 < ; @ 6 ; : < 1 2 ? ; . ; 1 < = 2 ; @ B ? ? < B ; 1 6 ; 4 @ ´
handwritten menu changes often and suggests interesting their president. Elegant flagstone floors and subdued lighting the great Italian food, is the fact that they never close. 612.9 3<? . @A F96@5 /B@6;2@@ 9B;05 16;;2? 6; . ?29 .E21
new combinations. QOpen 18:00 - 03:00. (€8-16). AGB set the scene, while the kitchen churns out fresh, fresh food, The regular kitchen closes at 05:00, switching straight to .A : < @ = 5 2 ? 2  < ? . @ B ; 1 .F : < ? ; 6 ; 4 7 . G G / ? B ; 0 5 ' A 6 : 2
with home-made pasta and bread and plenty of regional breakfast-mode, so that your Last Supper can simply go on 9 2 @ @ . ; 1 6 ; A 2 ? ; .A 6 < ; . 9 ´ A 5 2 1 B 8 2 ? 2 @ A. B ? . ; A / 2 ? 9 6 ; 
Montevideo D-5, Viktoria-Luise-Pl. 6, SB, MViktoria- ingredients found back in dishes like the veal scallop with forever. The business lunch is good value, but if you’re more ;r?;/2?42? @A? " ´"" $%& /2?96; A29 #% "!  DDD1B82?2@A.B?.;A0<:
Luise-Pl., tel. 213 10 20, www.montevideo.de. The herbs, potatoes and black truffles. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, than peckish choose a discounted pizza. Q Open 24hrs. Also
outdated décor of this old west Berlin bistro - grey carpeting, Sun 14:00 - 23:00. on Georgenstr. 2, MI. (€8-18). PGB

Il Nido C-5, Fasanenstr. 40, CB, MSpichernstr., tel.


Spanish Marooush
883 18 96. The aromas of Rome and Calabria waft through
this small, Italian-owned restaurant. Meals are prepared a AndaLucia C-4, Savignyplatz 2, MSavignyplatz, tel.
la minute with fresh ingredients; pasta is homemade; there (+49)(0)30 54 71 02 71, www.andalucia-berlin.de.
are 14 noodle variations and plenty of seafood and grilled Located at the chic Savignyplatz, AndaLucia offers a range
YAKITORI ROKKO meat dishes as well. The narrow front room is the cosi-
est and has a view of the vitrine full of grappa. 300 kinds
of Spanish wines and, of course, mouth-watering tapas. The
restaurant’s cosy and stylish interior and spacious terrace
Japanese Grill Cuisine are apparently available, but we didn’t ask the waiter to provide an inviting setting for well-priced Spanish fare, from
recite them all. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 16:00 - 24:00. Albóndiga meatballs to the monumental mixed grill.QOpen
(€13-20). B 17:00 - 01:00.

La Forchetta A-5, Königsallee 5b, MHalensee, tel.


892 85 97, www.la-forchetta-berlin.de. An upmarket Altberliner Biersalon Marooush C-4, Knesebeckstraße 46, MUhland-
restaurant well within the city limits but overlooking lake straße, tel. 887 11 83 35, www.marooush.de.
Halensee. Only fresh Italian food is served here, including The Alt Berliner Biersalon, strategically placed along Refined Egyptian-oriental opulence with a modern twist
a tagliatelle with salmon starter and oven baked lamb. In Berlin’s stately Kurfürstendamm boulevard, is the ideal and gourmet food. The combined restaurant, shisha
summer, a romantic terrace is available.QOpen 12:00 - place to take a break and rest on a city walk, or to end lounge and cocktail bar has luxurious and tasteful décor
23:00. AB your day with a good meal and some drinks. Open 24 enhancing the equally exotic menu. Puff on a shisha as
hours and also serving food non-stop, there’s no real you await your meal or come on Friday or Saturday for
Mola D-4, Wittenbergpl. 3, CB, MWittenbergpl., tel. 21 reason to leave at all – especially when major sports ‘dinner and dance’, with belly-dancers and live music.
47 50 60, www.restaurant-mola.de. After charging your events are screened and live bands play the night away. The Marooush-Club can be booked for special occasions.
way down Ku’damm and Tauentzienstraße, collapse here with Credit cards accepted. QOpen 16:00 - 01:00.
your shopping bags. Mola’s pizzas, which overflow the already
huge plates, are delicious. There’s no English menu, but the Alt Berliner Biersalon, Kurfürstendamm 225/226,
Open lengthy list is decipherable if you’ve eaten Italian before. On www.alt-berliner-biersalon.de.
11:30 - 14:00 Sunday, picking at the long brunch buffet table will run you
17:30 - 22:00 €8. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00. (€10-27). B
Closed Thursday
Ristorante Ciao B-4, Kurfürstendamm 156, CB,
Holsteinische Str. 40 MAdenauerplatz, tel. 89 00 68 47, www.ristorante-
Berlin-Wilmersdorf ciao.com. Ciao has reopened as a very chic Italian with
tel. 8639 7360 an open kitchen. Chef Heiko Probst entices discerning
www.yakitori-rokko.de diners with seasonal delights such as turbot in salt dough,
dragonhead ravioli and scampi carpaccio drizzled in lime

Berlin In Your Pocket berlin.inyourpocket.com berlin.inyourpocket.com December 2009 - January 2010


48 FOOD & DRINK AROUND TOWN FOOD & DRINK AROUND TOWN 49

El Dorado C-4, Kurfürstendamm 203, CB, MUhlandstr., the cocktail menu, which listing 150 kinds of champagne and
tel. 88 92 65 82, www.eldorado-steakhaus.de. Dark 250 cocktails, is thicker (and a better read) than the Little
woods and coloured tile work make a proper setting for this Red Book. At these prices, you’ll be glad you came for happy
Spanish restaurant. The various cuts weigh in between 180 hour - 16:00 - 21:00. QOpen 16:00 - 04:00.
and 500 grams. The non-red meat dishes include Moorish
and Catalan specialities and there’s also tapas if you just Berlin Plaza Bar C-4, Knesebeckstr. 63, MUhland-
want to snack while watching the boulevard’s shoppers pass str., tel. 88 41 30, info@plazahotel.de, www.plaza-
by. QOpen 11:00 - 02:00. (€18-20). AB hotel.de. The Berlin Plaza hotel bar serves a variety of
German and Czech beers to hotel guests and passers-by. Alt Berliner Biersalon
Mar y Sol C-4, Savignypl. 5, CB, MUhlandstr., tel. 313 Relax at the bar and try a Redeberger, Berliner, Paulaner,
25 93, www.marysol-berlin.de. Perhaps the most Mediter- Krusovice or a glass of Berlin’s white beer, often best with Hefner C-4, Kantstr. 146, CB, MUhlandstr., tel. 31 01
ranean spot in Berlin, sitting on Mar y Sol’s terracotta-and- a shot of sweet syrup. 75 20, www.hefner-berlin.de. The most happening spot
glazed-tiles terrace makes you think you never left Marbella. on Savignyplatz is this cool cocktail bar on the corner with
Though the seaview is missing, the point-and-choose tapas Har d Rock Café C-4, Meinekestr. 21, CB, Kantstraße. Though the lengthy cocktail menu includes all the
bar inside the hacienda-style interior should get you into the MKurfürstendamm, tel. 88 46 20, www.hardrock. favourites, Hefner prides itself on having the best selection of
mood. QOpen 11:00 - 01:00. (€5-19). AB com. Immediately next to the entrance is the place of pil- Martini cocktails in Berlin. To prevent the affluent 30-some-
grimage for so many travellers - the Hard Rock Café T-shirt thing crowd from getting bored, DJs perform on weekend
Bars and souvenir shop. Once past that, you’re in the familiar
surroundings of the generously decorated restaurant/bar
nights. And if that’s not enough, there’s a brothel just around
the corner. QOpen 14:00 - 03:00. AB
Alt Berliner Biersalon C-4, Kurfüstendamm 225, CB, area where you’ll find both foreigners and locals looking
MKurfürstendamm, tel. 88 43 99 28, www.alt-berliner- for a good time, with Bud, Miller and Corona beer. QOpen Joseph Roth Diele E-4, Potsdamer Str.75, MGleis-
biersalon.de. A favourite for many foreigners - a huge bar 12:00 - 02:00. PAEG dreieck, tel. 26 36 98 84, www.joseph-roth-diele.de.
with cosy corners as well as areas where wild sports fans A wonderfully cosy dark brown bar just west of Postdamer
can watch a large screen. The bar serves well-priced German Harry’s New York Bar D-4, Lützowufer. 15, MNol- Platz. Owned by the same people who run the odd Ave Maria
and international food as well as big breakfasts. Groups lendorfplatz, tel. 254780, www.esplanade.de. The religious shop next door, it’s named after a prolific Jewish
are welcome - actually you can fit 499 of your buddies plus undisputed king of central berlin bars and lounges. The minute writer, whose quotes and books decorate the walls and who
yourself in here.QOpen 24hrs. B you walk through the doors, you’ll see why Harry’s New-York lived nearby in the 1920s when this street was the beating
Bar resides atop of every Berlin bar guide. Step back to a heart of Berlin. Delicious dinners are served (snacks only on
Bar am Lützowplatz D-4, Lützowpl. 7, TG, MNol- time when the key elements for unforgettable nights were Fridays), and it’s a fabulous place for a beer or wine after a
lendorfpl., tel. 262 68 07, www.baramluetzowplatz. great drinks, great music, and great friends. Meet and greet show at the Wintergarten Varieté, just opposite. QOpen
com. From his portrait at the back of the narrow, stylish bar, new acquaintances from around the world. Enjoy music filling 10:00 - 24:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Chairman Mao is forced to take in the scene of successful the room from a jazzman tickling the ivories. Known for its
capitalists poring over each other. Professionals line what’s international drink menu consisting of nearly 200 choices, Kumpelnest 3000 E-4, Lüt zowstr. 23, TG,
reputed to be Berlin’s longest bar counter, or settle into the Harry’s is one of the most popular bars in Berlin. Q Open MKur fürstenstr., tel. 261 69 18, w w w.kumpel-
low leather coaches in the back - the most comfy spot to read Mon-Sat from 19:00, Sun closed. nest3000.com. Stragglers of all sexual orientations head
here for a nightcap or one last drunken spin on the tiny metal Eck is a comfortable and atmospheric pub and bistro boasting
dance floor. The velvet paintings and carpeted walls are over a hundred types of best-quality beer, lovingly preserved
fascinating after a couple of drinks, and so are the scruffy and served either inside or on the spacious terrasse. Full
patrons apparently: it’s known as a hook-up bar. QOpen menu, including Sunday brunch.
19:00 - 05:00.

The Original! Mommsen-Eck B-4, Mommsenstraße 45, CB, MAde-


nauerplatz, tel. 324 25 80, www.mommsen-eck.de. With
traditional charm a street north of the Ku’damm, Mommsen-
Trompete D-4, Lützowpl. 9, MNollendorfpl, tel. 23
00 47 94, www.trompete-berlin.de. Par t-owned by
actor Ben Becker, Trompete is an upmarket club often
presenting new live music acts. On every first Saturday of
Classic shopping and dining! the month there’s the Kasino Royale film music party. Q
Open Thu 19:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 22:00 - 04:00. Admis-
Irish Pub im Europa-Center sion €5-7. EB
A cosy pub in the style of an Irish village, hidden inside the Victoria Bar E-4, Potsdamer Str. 102, SB, MKurfürsten-
Europa-Center complex in western Berlin. Famed for its str., tel. 25 75 99 77, www.victoriabar.de. Grown-ups who
Over 80 36-metre long bar, it’s the perfect place for typical Irish appreciate a well-mixed cocktail make up the clientele of this
pub food and beer. Important sports events – including retro-sleek bar. The proof is in the barkeeps - they conduct
businesses: English football – are screened, and there’s daily live cocktail school on select Sundays. Slide onto an olive-green
bars, restaurants, music to listen or dance to. banquette and let the wood panelled walls evoke the times
Irish Pub, Tauentzienstr. 9-12, www.irishpubberlin. when you snuck drinks out of your parents’ liquor cabinet.
shopping and de. Open daily 12:00-04:00. Happy hour from 18:30 until 21:30. QOpen 18:30 - 03:00,
entertainment Fri, Sat 18:30 - 04:00.

Clubs
How to reach us: Luxor Club C-4, Knesebeckstraße 46, MUhlandstraße,
tel. 887 11 83 35, www.cluboriental.de. If you want to go
A Zoo: U2, U9 · AWittenbergplatz: U1, U2, U3 clubbing after dinner at the downstairs restaurant, head to
? Zoo: S5, S7, S75, S9 the Luxor club, where you can dance to oriental dance floor
classics in rooms with cool colours and fantastic lighting. Ad-
= Zoo: X9, X10, X34, 100, 109, 110, 200, 204, mission is free for ladies before 23:00. On Thursdays you can
245, 249, M45, M46, M49 get on a boat-ride party, starting off at the bar for a cocktail,
Tauentzienstr. 9 –12 · 10789 Berlin taking a shuttle to the riverside and partying on a boat before
= Europa-Center: M19, M29, M46 Tel.: 030/26 49 79 40 · www.24EC.de heading back to finish the night at Luxor (book in advance).
Dress code: elegant. Q Open Thu-Sat 20:00-06:00. E

Berlin In Your Pocket berlin.inyourpocket.com berlin.inyourpocket.com December 2009 - January 2010


50 FOOD & DRINK AROUND TOWN FOOD & DRINK AROUND TOWN 51

Kreuzberg Chantrey H-5, Paul-Lincke-Ufer 42/43, KB, tel. 0177 412


46 02, info@loftberlin.com, www.chantrey.de. A sleek new
Two Kiezes in Kreuzberg stand out with a high concentration eatery with large pastel paintings of faces, clean-cut design,
of restaurants, cafés, bars and clubs. Oranienstraße and a surprising menu consisting of typical Asian street food.
(G/H-3) is for the alternative set of all ages, nationalities, There’s everything from Thai spring rolls, Indonesian sate,
■ Berlin‘s first english pub since 1976 and sexual orientation. Those who hang out around the and Cambodian noodle soup to a Vietnamese banana des-
Bergmannstraße/Mehringdamm area (F-4) are perhaps a sert. Fresh juices and smoothies too. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00.
■ British and Irish beer on tap bit more pulled together and grey on the edges, but live music
◄ Drink from the YARD OF ALE (1 litre) and gay venues keep things adventurous. Kimchi Princess H-4, Skalitzer Str. 36, KB, MGörlitzer
Bahnhof, tel. (+49)(0)163 458 02 03, www.kimchiprin-
mouth-blown exclusively for Union Jack
■ Live Music during winter months Asian cess.com. Though this is not Berlin’s first Korean restaurant,
Kimchi Princess is being hailed by the capital’s gourmets as
Aaina Tempelhof Tempelhofer Damm 216, U Ullstein- the first one to serve authentic dishes - that is, not drowned
Schlüterstr.15, 10625 Berlin - Charlottenburg, Tel. 312 55 57, www.unionjack-berlin.de, Monday to Saturday from 19:00 str., tel. 72 01 25 89, www.aaina.de. Colourful lighting, in cream and sauce like most Asian food here. It’s indeed
outsized umbrella parasols and buddha statues form the excellent and spicy, and as a result it can be difficult to find a
décor for the second outlet of this Asian restaurant. The cooks free table in the evening. QOpen 18:00 - 01:00. Closed Mon.
I r i s h P u b D - 4 , Ta u e n t z i e n s t r . 9 - 1 2 , C B , conjure up food from across the region, and there’s ample
MKurfürstendamm, tel. 262 16 34, www.irishpub- choice of Indian, Singaporean, Malaysian and Thai dishes. Pagode F-5, Bergmannstr. 88, KB, MMehringdamm, tel.
berlin.de. Live music on the stage every night, Guinness on In summer enjoy sitting amidst palm trees on the terrace. 691 26 40. Simply one of the best Thai restaurants in town,
tap, sports on TV and beers in the 36m long bar are the key QOpen 11:30 - 24:00. and awarded by the Thai embassy in Berlin as one of the best
attractions that regularly get this place packed with punters. in Germany. It feels crowded, steamy and noisy, but that’s just
The Irish Pub provides all of these with flair. Come (or avoid) on part of the authentic self-service atmosphere; wait till you
Mondays for karaoke night.QOpen 12:00 - 03:00, Fri 12:00 sink your teeth in the fantastic food. All the Thai classics are
- 04:00, Sat 11:30 - 04:00, Sun 11:30 - 03:00. present, as are some other Asian dishes. If you like it hot, just
ask and they’ll make it hot. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (€2-9). B
Union Jack Schlüterstr. 15, CB, MSavignyplatz, tel.
(+49)(0)30 312 55 57, www.unionjack-berlin.de. A
corner of Scottish highland in the heart of Berlin, this whisky Austrian
pub is one of Berlin’s first true pubs and continues to draw Austria F-5, Bergmannstr. 30, KB, MGneisenaustr., tel.
Union Jack the punters in with an amazing collection of 401 types of 694 44 40. Have your Wiener Schnitzel where they do it right,
Pubs whisky (from the best Scottish and Irish brands to Canadian
and Japanese bourbon) as well as various English and Irish
here in Austria. This corner restaurant is known for its huge por-
tions, so indulge in the full experience or go for the half portion.
Irish Harp B-4, Giesebrechtstr. 15, CB, MAdenauer- beers, including John Smith’s and Newcastle Brown Ale, The setting is appropriate - heavy wooden furnishings and ant-
platz, tel. 22 32 87 35, info@harp-pub.de, www.harp- best consumed in the special Yard-of-Ale glass. Solid food is lers on the wall. All the other dishes, including Salzburger Fritat-
pub.de. A well-established Irish pub serving all the usual pub available too - home made snacks and and Walkers crisps. tatorte, are excellent as well. QOpen 18:00 - 24:00. (€8-17). A
Aaina Tempelhof
grub favourites as well as soups, salads and sandwiches. On QOpen from 19:00. Closed Sun.
tap there’s Guinness, Kilkenny and a range of German beers.
You can expect major sports events to be beamed on screens,
and there’s regular karaoke, quiz nights and live music too.
QOpen 17:00 - 02:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 02:00. B berlinasia.de
presents

PAGODE - thai kitchen SUMO - japanese fusion food


Bergmannstr. 88 Bergmannstr. 89
Irish Harp Irish Pub +49-30-6912640 +49-30-69004963

Gneis
enau
str.
u
U-Bhf Gneisenau Str.

r Str.
tr.

Zossene
Solmss
Bergm
annstrSUMO PAGODE
asse

Berlin In Your Pocket berlin.inyourpocket.com berlin.inyourpocket.com December 2009 - January 2010


52 FOOD & DRINK AROUND TOWN FOOD & DRINK AROUND TOWN 53

white picnic tables and the hip living room-like indoor portion is
made up of two construction containers. View of the water or
the rustling tall green reeds make this a peaceful respite from all
things city while still being near the heart of Kreuzberg (and can
you believe this very area was once filled with rubble, and part
of the Wall’s deathstrip?). Thai noodle dishes spring rolls, and
curry and lentil soups are delicious and at a great price. Cocktails
are served until about 02:00. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. (€4-7). B

Crossover
Kuchen Kaiser G/H-4, Oranienpl. 11-13, KB, MMori-
tzpl., tel. 61 40 26 97, www.kuchenkaiser.de. Located
on Oranienplatz, just a few meters from the Oranienstrasse
in the heart of Kreuzberg, this has been a melting pot for
Berliners, their friends and visitors since 1866. Famous for its Amar
cakes and tarts, exclusively sent by the Hindenburg to New
York in the 1920s, the “Kaiser of cakes” has transformed into mayonnaise-filled potato salad. The crisp, salty skin gives you
a restaurant with a wide variety of German specialities and another reason for quaffing yet another beer. For €6, you get a
Pagode international food. There’s a great choice of breakfasts, a low- lot of wood-panelled atmosphere. QOpen. Closed Mon. Open
cost lunch from 12.00 to 15.00 (under €7), and a huge brunch Tues-Sat from 19:00; Sun from 17:00; Closed Mon. (€2-6). B
streetcorner with a beautifully sleek, minimalist interior that on Sundays. You can watch the Champions League live, play
is good for both intimate dinners interacting with others at pool, and sit down for the special dinner service with fresh, Kartoffel Pfanne F-5, Burgherrenstr. 11, MPlatz der
shared tables. It’s so eco-concious that Foodorama’s employ- home-made specialities. The Kuchenkaiser team won the Luftbrücke, tel. 892 59 49, www.kartoffelpfanne.de. A
ees all use bikes or public transport to get to work. The cooks ‘smartest bar in Berlin and Brandenburg’ live radio show, and sandwich sign on Kurfürstendamm sends peckish wander-
use exclusively organically grown seasonal products, many of will be opening an new big tent in the garden soon to present ers on the short detour down to the best-tasting potatoes
No Kangaroo them regional, and served at afforable prices - breakfast can even more events, concerts and live cultural acts. A must-see in Berlin. The Wiener Schnitzel includes a generous portion
No Kangaroo H-4, Muskauer Straße 13, MGörlitzer be had from €5.50 and dinner mains start at €8.50. Try one in Berlin. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 01:00. B of the spuds. A single serving of vanilla pudding with Rote
Bahnhof, tel. 65 79 96 30, info@nokangaroo.com, www. of the bread baskets for a healthy lunch, or the delicious beef Grütze (fruit sauce) can sweeten the palettes of lovebirds who
nokangaroo.com. Austrian, not Australian - the ski hut decor
and gondola bar seats at No Kangaroos are the setting for
yakitori. Remember to ask for a Good Mojo Tree seed before
you leave, to offset any climate-changing you may unintenton- German have just polished off lamb medallions with garlic butter. The
good beer selection includes Warsteiner and Weihenstephan.
alpine treats from the Salzburg region, buffet lunches and ally do on the way home.QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. No Amex. A Altes Zollhaus G-5, Carl-Herz-Ufer 30, MPrinzenstr., QOpen 11:30 - 22:00. (€4-12). B
brunches, Stiegl beer as well as parties on weekend nights. tel. 692 33 00, info@altes-zollhaus.com, www.altes-
Check the events online.QOpen Tue to Thu 12:00 - 24:00, Weltrestaurant Markthalle H-4, Pücklerstr. 34, KB,
Fri & Sat 12:00 - 02:00, Sun 11:00 – 24:00, Mon closed. Cafés zollhaus-berlin.de. A bit of countryside in the city - the
beautiful old customs house along an idyllic stretch of the MGörlitzer Bahnhof, tel. 617 55 02, www.weltrestaurant-
Barcomi’s Deli F-5, Bergmannstr. 21, KB, MGneisenaus- Landwehrkanal has a calm, rustic atmosphere in which to try markthalle.de. Within a historic market hall building, the Mark-
Riehmer’s F-5, Hagelbergerstr. 9 KB, MMehringdamm, tr., tel. 28 59 83 63, www.barcomi.de. American-owned regional specialities featuring things such as goat’s cheese, thalle restaurant only 15 years old, yet already has such a rustic
tel. 78 89 19 80. Riehmer’s brings together the cuisines of Barcomi’s became a phenomenon with its simple concept: bring dumplings, mustard sauce and compotes.QOpen 18:00 - atmosphere. The room is long and tall, with wainscoting, simple
the far-reaching Austro-Hungarian empire. Standards on the bagels, Celestial Seasonings tea, and some fatty American cakes 23:00. Closed Mon, Sun. A wooden furniture and a bar that locals belly up to. It’s a restaurant
changing menu are Wienerschnitzel, beef consomme (Tafel- and cookies to Berlin’s table. There are two picnic tables outside, that doesn’t let its looks carry it: the kitchen takes pride in its
spitz Suppe) and beef goulash. The cream-coloured rooms and inside you’ll have to squeeze past the five-layer display case Henne H-4, Leuschnerdamm 25, KB, MMoritzpl., tel. nouvelle takes on German and Austrian standards. The menu
are bare of ornamentation save for a portrait of Kaiser Franz of lemon-strawberry-jam cake with white icing, chocolate walnut 614 77 30, www.henne-berlin.de. Who knew that the changes weekly, but count on Spätzel, Schweinebraten (braised
Joseph and linen napkins folded into crowns. The coveted pie, pecan pie, and other deadly sins. Bagels can be topped with Germans fried chicken? Other than a few Wursts, chicken pork), and apple strudel. Breakfasts run from Russian to American-
simpler seating is on the cedar chips of the garden that faces American Philly cream cheese or European Frischkäse, or chicken, is all that’s served in this appropriately named old, cosy, style, and as late as 17:00. After dinner, check if anything is going
an historic apartment complex for Prussian officers. QOpen hummus, or tuna salads. QOpen 08:00 - 21:00, Sun 09:00 - corner tavern, along with sides of coleslaw and disappointing down in the Privatclub, the club in the cellar. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00.
18:00 - 01:00. Closed Mon. (€7-16). B 21:00. Also on Sophienstr. 21, MI. (€3-5). BS (€8-16, weekday lunch menu €7.50). AB

Café am Engelbecken H-4, Heinrich Heine Pl, KB, Pagode


Biological MHeinrich-Heine-Str., tel. 28 37 68 16, www.cafe-am- Indian
Foodorama F-5, Bergmannstr. 94, KB, MGneisennaus- engelbecken.de. Opposite the impressive, partially-restored A much-loved self-service restaurant with inexpensive, Amar I-4, Schesische Str. 9, MSchlesisches Tor, tel. 69
tr., tel. (+49)(0)30 69 00 11 00, contact@foodorama. redbrick St. Michael’s church is a little pond, sunk into a de- mouthwateringly delicious and award-winning Thai 56 66 73, www.amar-berlin.de. A large, cosy restaurant with
de, www.foodorama.de. Kreuzberg is the proud home of pressed parkway that was once a canal. Hidden away at the cuisine. modern furnishings, Indian elements and big windows overlook-
Germany’s only certified climate neutral restaurant, on a reedy edge of the pond is a sunny terrace café. Umbrellas shade ing the terrace, filled with eating locals and visitors in summer-
time. Amar serves attractive Indian weekday lunch menus from
just €4.40, and delicious dinner courses, just as spicy as you
need it to be. After dinner, the cocktail menu usually convinces
the young clientele to stay longer. One of the most famous and
beloved Restaurant for good Food, service, atmosphere and
cheep prices.QOpen 11:30 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 02:00.

Amrit H-4, Oranienstr. 202, KB, MGörlitzer Bhf, tel. 28


88 48 40, www.amrit.de. Kreuzbergers love this restaurant,
and Amrit loves ‘em back with huge portions and free spiked
mango juice shots at the end of the meal. Make reservations
for weekend nights and be ready for tight seating. This might
be the one Indian restaurant that doesn’t serve Chana Saag
(chickpeas with spinach), but vegetarians can find other
combinations. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 02:00.
Also at F-1, Oranienburger Str. 45, MI, and E-3, Winterfeldstr.
40, SB. (€7-14). ABS

Berlin In Your Pocket berlin.inyourpocket.com berlin.inyourpocket.com December 2009 - January 2010


54 FOOD & DRINK AROUND TOWN FOOD & DRINK AROUND TOWN 55

International
Sage Restaurant H-4, Köpenicker Str. 18-20, MSchle-
sisches Tor, Ostbahnhof, tel. +49 (0)30 755 49 40 71,
reservierung@sage-restaurant.de, www.sage-restaurant.
de. If there’s such a thing as industrial charm, this is where to
find it. Sage is a fantastically designed Kreuzberg restaurant with
starkly modern and white furnishings contrasting with raw factory
bricks, peeling paint and chains. The food served is imaginative
gastronomy, and includes entrecote, pizza and a selection of
weekly dishes - drop by on Sundays for a rich buffet spread. In
summer, Sage opens earlier to serve lunch on its riverside terrace
with deckchairs and beach bar; in winter puff away by the fire in
the cigar lounge. The kitchen closes at midnight, but snacks are
available longer.QOpen from 18:00, Sun from 11:00. €7-40. I

Sage Restaurant
Italian
Gorgonzola Club H-4, Dresdener Str. 121, MKott- Sale e Tabacchi
busser Tor, tel. 6156473, www.gorgonzolaclub.de. An F-4, Rudi Dutschke Str. 23, KB, MKochstr., tel. 252 Japanese
In Your Pocket favourite, serving the best and biggest carpac- 11 55. This attractive restaurant with a nice garden and Sumo F-5, Bergmannstr. 89, KB, MMehringdamm,
cio we’ve tried, and with lovely seating in the green outdoor real Italian waiters seems to have gotten a bit comfortable tel. 69 00 49 63, www.s-u-m-o.com. Sumo is a cunningly
courtyard. The prices for the fresh pastas, pizzas and other and not so gracious with age. Guidebooks send tourists designed Asian restaurant on three levels serving much more
dishes are by all means reasonable, and there are additional here, and journalists working nearby may meet visiting than sushi; there are soups and a wide range of asian meat
changing dinner options too. Next door to the Würgeengel bar. colleagues here for a meal, but on a recent visit, the inex- and fish dishes, all with crackling fresh ingredients. Sushi is
QOpen 18:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 18:00 - 02:00. pensive wine by the glass was not pleasant, the crème of also as fresh as it can and should be. Photos on the menu
cauliflower soup could not be pepped up by pepper, salt, make it easy to choose what to have. A good place to sample
Osteria N°1 F-5, Kreuzbergerstr. 71, KB, MMehring- nor oil, and the waiter expressed a bit too much disdain a mix of fusion food and DJ music. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00.
damm, tel. (+49)(0)30 786 91 62, www.osteria-uno. for a customer who only wanted a light bite at 23:00. It’s (€2-9).
de. Next to Viktoriapark, this neighbourhood fixture has a the ‘nicest’ restaurant around Checkpoint Charlie, and is
fantastic Biergarten bordered by lemon, cherry and olive not far from the Jewish Museum either. QOpen 10:00 -
trees. Classic regional cuisine is prepared by cooks from 02:00. (€10-22). AG Weltrestaurant Markthalle
different parts of Italy, and everything is made fresh to order.
Order a pasta with Toscan hare ragout or salmon in orange H-3, Pückler str. 34, KB,
sauce. Perhaps the most child-friendly place in town, too. MGörlitzer Bahnhof, tel. 617
Choose from six different lunch menus from €7.Q Open Sumo 55 02, www.weltrestaurant-
markthalle.de. Within a historic
12:00 - 24:00. (€7-17). AB
A modern style two-floor asian restaurant engulfed in market hall building, the Mark-
DJ sounds offering fresh sushi and asian fusion food at thalle restaurant only 15 years
affordable prices. See p. 56. old, yet already has such a rustic
atmosphere. The room is long
and tall, with wainscoting, simple
wooden furniture and a bar that
locals belly up to. It’s a restaurant that doesn’t let its
looks carry it: the kitchen takes pride in its nouvelle takes
on German and Austrian standards. The menu changes
weekly, but count on Spätzel, Schweinebraten (braised
pork), and apple strudel. Breakfasts run from Russian to
American-style, and as late as 17:00. After dinner, check
if anything is going down in the Privatclub, the club in the
cellar. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. (€8-16, weekday lunch
menu €7.50). AB
Sumo

Berlin In Your Pocket berlin.inyourpocket.com berlin.inyourpocket.com December 2009 - January 2010


56 FOOD & DRINK AROUND TOWN FOOD & DRINK AROUND TOWN 57

NO KANGAROO

Alpine ambiance and Austrian specialties in Berlin;


the atmosphere at No Kangaroos is best described as
a cross between a Viennese café and an après ski hut
serving delicacies from the Salzburg region. Enjoy
hearty specialties presented at the Heurigen buff et DELICIOUS DINING
and a glass of tasty wine or the popular Stiegl beer. On E XCIT I N G LY CRE AT I V E CU ISI N E
Sundays the restaurant offers a superb brunch with free- R I G H T O N T H E R I V ERS I D E
flowing Schlumberger sparkling wine. Every Thursday F I R ES I D E CI G A R LO U N G E
from 21:00 participate in the traditional Hüttengaudi S U N N Y T ER R ACE A N D B E ACH
fun as the restaurant gets into apres ski party mode,
with snacks, DJs spinning ski hut hits and ski hut
games. On Friday and Saturday, slam down Stiegl beers S A G E R ES TA U R A N T OPENING HOURS
at the late night parties. Check No Kangaroos’ many KÖ P E N I C K E R S T R 18 -2 0 W I N T ER: 6 P M T I L L L AT E M O N - S AT, 11A M T I L L L AT E S U N
10 9 97 B E R L I N - K R E U Z B E R G S U M M ER: 11A M T I L L L AT E M O N - S U N
events, including Austrian movies, sports on screen
U1 S C H L ES I S C H ES TO R , S O S T B A H N H O F
and barbecue nights, on their website. F R E E PA R K I N G O N S I T E R ESER VAT I O N @ S AG E- R ESTAU R A N T.D E
T E L (+ 49) (0) 3 0 755 49 4 07-1 W W W.SAG E- RESTAU R A N T.D E
Muskauer Straße 13,
tel. 65 79 96 30, info@nokangaroo.com,
www.nokangaroo.com. Clubs SO36 H-4, Oranienstr. 190, KB, MGörlitzer Bahnhof,
Open Tue to Thu 12:00 - 24:00, Fri & Sat 12:00 - 02:00, Junction Bar F-5, Gneisenaustr. 18, KB, MGneisenaus- tel. 61 40 13 06, www.so36.de. Live bands perform nearly
Sun 11:00 – 24:00, Mon closed. tr., tel. 694 66 02, www.junction-bar.de. Squeezing onto every night at this institution that’s home to any alternative
the bat-cave of a stage is fine for a four-man blues band, but lifestyle, from gay Turks and metal heads to punks and
Yorckschlösschen Latin American
Dios mio for the 10-piece Afro-Cuban ensembles. Live music
draws an ethnically and generationally mixed audience every
hardcore vegans. On popular club nights, like the gay Electric
Ballroom or Gayhane, show up before 01:00 or face a long
night of the week. After the band, a DJ keeps everyone tight wait with the friendly door staff. QOpen 23:00 - 05:00. E
Home of Jazz & Blues Que Pasa H-4, Skalitzer Str. 107, MGörlitzer Bahnhof, on the dance floor. QOpen 21:00 - 04:00, Fri, Sat 22:00 -
tel. 81 49 26 14, www.quepasa.at. Mexican food lovers this
is your new spot! Que Pasa serves sizzling fajitas, enchiladas,
04:00. E
Jazz clubs
burritos as well as the traditional plate of nachos and all of these Kato I-4, Underneath U-Bahn station Schlesisches Tor, Yorckschlösschen F-5, Yorckstr. 19, MMehringdamm,
all time favorites taste just as you would imagine if not better. MSchlesisches Tor, tel. 611 23 39, www.kato-x-berg.com. tel. 215 80 70, www.yorckschloesschen.de. A Kreuzberg
During dinner be sure to try one or two of their many fabulous This place is right underneath the Schlesisches Tor train station institution, the Yorckschlösschen (‘small Yorck castle’) has been
cocktails for the best price in town €3,50. The atmosphere is but don’t worry - you will not hear or feel the steel wheels roar over here for over a century, gathering fame in the 1970s as an artists’
also festive with Mayan paintings on the walls and doorways. head... as you will be engulfed in the sounds sounding around you. watering hole and now a hub of local social life. Inside, there’s a
Q Mon-Thu from 15:00, Fri/Sat from 12:00, Sun from 10:00. So really anything goes and can happen... from punk to electro busy bar that features regular live music, with the emphasis on
and from jazz noises to exploding frog death metal music. The traditional jazz, swing and black rhythm’n’blues. Free concerts
Bars main hall is an integral part of main indie band’s tours from all
around the world. Look out for posters on the walls or just go
take place Wednesdays, Fridays and Saturdays from 21:00,
Sundays from 14:00. Diner is nicely priced, with most dishes
Milchbar H-4, Manteufelstr. 41, KB, MGörlitzer Bahnhof, and see what may happen to you... and try not to get run over! well under €11.Q Sun-Thu 17:00-03:00, Fri/Sat 17:00-04:00.
www.milchbar-berlin.de. It is the foam of beer that lines
the upper lip of patrons of Milchbar, home to punks, students,
and aging alternative types still loyal to the sounds of punk,
ska, thrash, and hard rock. The crowd is not so anarchic as
Yorckstrasse 19 to not want to cheer on their teams when football games are
screened. The murals and dark décor can heighten your woozi-
10965 Berlin ness if you’ve had one round too many. QOpen 17:00 - 03:00.
Open Sun-Thu 17:00-3:00
Würgeengel H-4, Dresdener Str. 122, MKottbusser
Fri/Sat 17:00-4:00 Tor, tel. 6155560, www.wuergeengel.de. Pronounced
tel: 2158070 ‘woor-ge-en-gel’ and named after Bunuel’s film “El Ángel Exter-
minador”, this dark brown bar is a great place for a drink and
www.yorckschloesschen.de a snack. The tapas list has a dozen tasty options, while the
cocktail menu has over 50 reasons to delay your departure.
To round it all off, there are Cuban and other cigars to enjoy.
Q Open from 19:00. Yorckschlösschen Que Pasa

Berlin In Your Pocket berlin.inyourpocket.com berlin.inyourpocket.com December 2009 - January 2010


58 FAMILY FUN WHAT TO SEE 59

Berlin has many exciting things to do that will keep both the Cinestar CineKidz Brandenburger Tor F-3, Pariser Pl, MI, MUnter den
adults and offspring happy. There are countless theatre The special family cinema inside the ALEXA mall Kindercity Essential Berlin Linden. Berlin’s landmark building is one of 14 gates com-
shows suitable for children, fun family city tours organised complex shows children’s films in daytime hours. The pleted in 1792 by Carl Langhans. Nike, the goddess of victory,
by the tourist office, and many museums put on special screening room has seats that can be adapted in height Berlin is a huge, fascinating city, but lacks a real Old drives the chariot atop the gate, and German armies used to
events and tours for children - there are even some museums for smaller children, and there’s space with cushions at the Town-type area. Attractions are fairly far-flung, so plan begin their parades here. The proud gate opens onto Pariser
made specially for kids. Join Berlin In Your Pocket on a tour front for them to sit or lie too. Note that most films will be your itinerary and get acquainted with the excellent public Platz, and it may as well have been built by the communists,
of Berlin’s best childrens’ attractions. dubbed in German. transporation. If you’re here for a limited amount of time, so linked in people’s minds is it to the double-wall system that
Cinestar CineKidz, ALE X A am Alexanderplatz, we recommend you join one of the walking tours to get essentially bricked it in. Fascists spoiled the gate as well by
Charlottchen restaurant Grunerstr. 20, tel. 30 87 43 90, www.kindercity.de. your bearings and see the main sights. staging their torch-lit parades through it. Berliners celebrated
A unique restaurant and theatre specially for children and Classic sights include the Brandenburger Tor and the the Wall’s fall in 1989 by standing on it in front of the gate.
their parents. Drop by with the kids for tasty meals, the indoor Labyrinth Kindermuseum nearby Reichstag with its glass dome, the Berliner
playground with slides and a castle, and the regular theatre This children’s museum encourages kids to ‘learn by doing’. Dom (the main cathedral), the museum-churches and Gedächtniskirche (Kaiser Wilhelm Memorial
shows and other events. Call ahead or visit the website to The current award-winning exhibition has them solving concert house on Gendarmenmarkt and the Neue Church) D-4, Breitscheidpl, CB, MKurfürstendamm,
find out when the next childrens’ theatre, puppet or clown problems, understanding correlations and learning about Synagoge. Fans of modern architecture shouldn’t miss tel. 218 50 23, www.gedaechtniskirche-berlin.de. The
show will take place. Charlottchen (‘little Charlotte’) is also humankind’s place in the wider world. With lots of active and the Potsdamer Platz area and the Jewish Museum. major attraction in what was West Berlin is this stark reminder
special for giving several handicapped people the chance to interactive games, mirrors, puzzles, numbers and letters, Finally, you can’t leave Berlin without a peek at one of the of World War II’s destruction. Kept as an open wound, the
work in a normal company. the museum offers hours of fun for children and parents. remnants of the Wall and the ruin of the Kaiser Wilhelm severe acknowledgement of German culpability is declared on
Charlottchen, Droysenstr. 1, tel. 324 47 17, www. Note that it’s a shoes-off museum – bring comfy warm Memorial Church. a plaque near the entrance of the old bell tower: ‘The tower of
mosaik-services.de/686.0.html. Open daily from 10:00. socks or slippers! the old church serves as a remembrance of God’s judgment,
Labyrinth Kindermuseum, Fabrik Osloer Straße, which befell our people during the war years.’ Berliners hold
Osloer Straße 12, tel. 800 93 1150, www.labyrinth-
kindermuseum.de. Open 13:00-18:00, Sun 11:00-18:00, Main sights little sacred and call the destroyed tower the hollow tooth.
The erection of the once enormous church dedicated to the
Berlin Zoo Mon closed. Admission €4/3,50. Berliner Dom G-3, Am Lustgar ten, MI, MHacke- German emperor had been a feat of national pride: even syna-
scher Markt, tel. 20 26 91 36, w w w.berlinerdom. gogues contributed to its funding, and it was first opened in
Visitor numbers to LOXX Miniaturwelten de. This Protestant church dating from 1905 might not 1895. Inside is a gilded mosaic of the Hohenzollern dynasty.
Berlin’s fantastic zoo have Experience Berlin and more in miniature, at the popular LOXX look as massi ve were the Stad tschloss still standing The modern chapel and tower next door were completed in
rocketed since the birth model train exposition inside the ALEXA shopping centre on across Unter den Linden (the GDR regime demolished 1961, and are worth entering on sunny days for the amazing
of Knut the polar bear Alexanderplatz. The 750 square meters of landscapes that the city castle in 1951). The royal Hohenzollern dynasty blue stained glass windows. Q Old tower open 10:00 - 16:00,
rocked the world – and took over 400,000 man hours to build has already attracted worshipped h ere wi thin th e four incarnations of th e closed Sun. Memorial church open 09:00 - 19:00.
in 2007, over 3 million over 700,000 people, and has immaculately recreated city church. Their places of rest in the cr ypt are indeed a
people visited, up 20% districts, buildings, city lighting and naturally lots of model yawn. The climb up to the dome’s rim is forgi ving, wi th
from 2006. There’s good trains zooming around. There’s even a miniature airport broad staircases, landings, and side exhibi t rooms.
reason too, even if you’ve had enough of cuddly white with planes taxiing around, and the US presidential airplane Q Open 09:00 - 19:00, Sun 12:00 - 19:00. Admis- www.inyourpocket.com
bears; with some 14,000 animals of nearly 1400 arriving. sion €5/3.
species, it’s the most varied zoo in the world. The kids LOXX am Alex, Miniatur Welten Berlin, Alexa-Center,
will have their faces glued to the glass for hours at the 3rd floor, Grunerstr. 20, tel. 44 72 30 22, www.loxx-
separate aquarium complex. Here, fish, reptiles and
amphibians of all shapes, colours and sizes can be
berlin.de. Open 10:00-19:00.
Ticket options For free admission to all museums on the Museumsinsel
(Alte Nationalgalerie, Altes Museum, Bodemuseum, or
viewed at close quarters in landscape basins and tanks. Magic Mountain
Highlights for most children are the blacktip reef sharks Discounts are a welcome relief, so if you are planning Pergamonmuseum), buy the CityTourCard Museumsinsel
Have the kids lose some energy on Berlin’s best indoor (€29,90; valid 72 hours, AB zone). Also includes the benefits
and the crocodiles, though the jellyfish, corals and the on seeing more than one museum, pick up one of these
climbing wall. Have them climb (charmingly called klettern of the standard CityTourCard.
rare lizard-like tuatara also deserve attention. The kids reduced rate cards.
in German) up sheer walls, secured by ropes and under
will love you forever if their visit if it coincides with the supervision of professionals.
daily feeding times; polar bears at 10:30, penguins at CityTourCard Get2riCard, tel. 438 09 80, www.get2card.de. A card
Böttgerstr. 20-26, U/S Gesundbrunnen, tel. 88 71 57 that allows you to get two for the price of one, whether it’s the
13:45, wolves and bears at 14:00, monkeys and pelicans w w w.city tourcard.com.
90, www.magicmountain.de. Open 12:00-24:00, Thu admission to a club, museum, cinema or to a show, nights at
at 15:30. At the aquarium, the sharks, rays and other Th e Ci t yTourCard is go o d for
10:00-24:00, Sat, Sun 11:00-22:00. Admission €14/7. a hostel or hotel, or food and drinks at a wide range of bars
large fish get fed every second Mon at 15:00, and the unlimited travel in the AB zone
crocodiles have dinner on Mon and Thu at 13:30. or ABC zone (including Potsdam) and restaurants. Check out the possibilities online. The tour-
Naturkundemuseum for 48 hours (€15,90/17,90), 72 ist version of the card is valid for seven days and costs €20.
The sight of the largest mounted dinosaur in the world, a
Berlin Zoo & Aquarium, Budapester Str. 32, Brachiosaurus brancai, will have both children and parents
hours (€20,90/22,90) or 5 days
S-Bahn Zoologischer Garten, tel. 25 40 10, www. (€28,90/33,90). It offers discounts State Museum Card, www.museen-berlin.de. The Staatli-
astounded – and Berlin’s wonderful natural history museum che Museen zu Berlin (state museums) have several ticket options
aquarium-berlin.de. Open 09:00-16:00. Admission of 20% or more at over 50 tourist
has much more. Poke fun at the aardvarks, learn about for their permanent collections. A single ticket ranges €4-8. You
(zoo and aquarium) €18/14; only zoo or aquarium attractions like sights, museums,
meteorites, see the world’s most famous fossil (the ancient can buy a €19/9.50 Schaulust three-day ticket valid for all
€12/9. tours, and theatres. Buy the card
bird Archaeopteryx lithographica), and teach children all state museums (but remember all are closed on Mondays). There
at the CityTourCard online shop, or at any BVG or S-Bahn
about the evolution of life on earth, as well as the diversity are groups of state museums in several neighbourhoods, and a
ticket machine or counter; if you use a machine, collect the
and beauty of nature. Bereich-karte (area card, €6-12) grants admission to those near
booklet free from any other salespoint.
Naturkundemuseum, Invalidenstr. 43, MI, tel. 20 93 each another; a ticket for all the museums on the Museum Island
85 91, www.naturkundemuseum-berlin.de. Open 09:30- costs €14/7. Admission is free for under-16s and for all visitors
17:00, Sat, Sun 10:00-18:00, Monday closed. Admission during the last four opening hours on Thursdays.
€6/3.50.
Welcome Card, www.btm.de. The WelcomeCard is
Osteria No. 1 restaurant a combined transport and reduction card valid for zone
After letting the children run around Kreuzberg’s Viktoriapark, AB or zone ABC (includes Potsdam and both airports) for
there’s no better place to head for a snack or meal than the 48 hours (€16,50/18,50), 72 hours (€22/25) or 5 days
child-friendly Osteria N°1 restaurant. Apart from catering (€29,50/34,50). The card offers reduced admission to
well to parents, they’re wonderful with children. No boredom several museums, bike tours and rental, boat tours, etc.
allowed on the pleasant green terrace. The Welcome Card is sold at tourist offices, S-Bahn offices,
Osteria N°1, Kreuzbergerstr. 71, KB, M Mehringdamm, hotels and kiosks. Students/youths may get better reduc-
tel. 786 91 62, www.osteria-uno.de. Open 12:00-24:00. tions at museums using their student cards.

Berlin In Your Pocket berlin.inyourpocket.com berlin.inyourpocket.com December 2009 - January 2010


60 WHAT TO SEE WHAT TO SEE 61

Neue Synagoge F-3, Oranienburger Str. 28-30, MI,


IMAX3D Sony Center MOranienburger Tor, tel. 88 02 84 51, www.cjudai- Museums Art Center Berlin
cum.de. Though not worth the extra admission charge or Because of its long period of separation, Berlin in ef-
Get right into the action with the the wait to stand inside it, the gilded cupola of the New fect has two cities’ worth of museums, and the quality Berlin’s largest exhibition space
IMAX experience. Wherever they Synagogue is one of the most eye-catching sights in Mitte. is proportional to the quantity. The state museums, for international art hosts some
take you, the combination of Exhibits strikingly balance the restoration of the Alhambra- many clustered on Museumsinsel (Museum Island), of the most interesting shows in
the towering IMAX screen and inspired synagogue from 1866, with preserved evidence at the Kulturforum next to Potsdamer Platz, and near town right opposite the Friedrich-
superb cinematography is awe- of its destruction, first on Kristallnacht on November 9, Schloß Charlottenburg, include audio guides and have stadtpalast theatre and a short
inspiring. The lounge chairs on 1938, and then through Allied bombs. Documents and a combined ticket system (see the ticket options). The walk from the Museum Island.
the balcony with a view of the spectacular Sony Center photographs remember the thriving Jewish community of free Museum infoline (tel. 90 26 99 444) has all details The full range of modern art is
are also a perfect spot to take a little break from sight- the neighbourhood, many of whom worshipped here in what about all Berlin museums. available, from paintings and
seeing, enjoy a cup of coffee, and to relax your feet while was the largest synagogue in Germany. A subtle but effective sculptures to photography and
waiting for the show to begin. sound installation adds to the experience. QOpen 10:00 - Bauhaus Archiv D-4, Klingelhöferstr. 14, TG, MNol- video art. Most exhibits are for
18:00, Fri 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sat. Admission €4.60/3. lendorfplatz, tel. 254 00 20, www.bauhaus.de. Sick of sale, and there’s a café in the
The new 3D Dinosaurs Live computer animation film centuries of decorative design, a group of young architects complex for contemplating which
shows these colossal and extremely succesful prehistoric Nikolaiviertel G-3, Between Rathausstr. and Mühlendamm, in Dessau under Walter Gropius star ted the Bauhaus contempory piece to take home.
animals in all their frightening glory, looking at dinosaurs MI, MAlexanderpl., www.stadtmuseum.de. Berlin’s tiny movement, believing firmly that by bringing design (and See p. 11 for more information.
from Mongolia’s Gobi desert to New Mexico’s mountains. medieval heart is the Nikolai Quarter, whose only truly medieval- foremostly the architecture and furnishing of homes) back
The 3D film ‘African Adventure’ takes you on a safari to looking building today is the Nikolaikirche (the twin-spired, stone to the basics would improve life. The group was joined by big Art Center Berlin, Friedrichstrasse 134 (opposite
Botswana’s fabulous Okavango Delta area, with shots of church). The church dates to 1230 and was rebuilt along with the names such as Paul Klee, Wassily Kandinsky, Ludwig Mies the Friedrichstadtpalast), tel. 27 87 90 27, www.
animals in their natural habitat – from lions and wildebeest entire quarter in the mid-80s to mark Berlin’s 750th birthday in van der Rohe, and was influenced by Piet Mondriaan and art-center-berlin.de. Open daily from 11:00 to 21:00,
to elephants and crocodiles. the area in which the fishermen’s settlement first began. No one Marc Chagall. Bauhaus’ top years were in the late 1920s. admission €2,50-5.
was trying to outdo Walt Disney here, and many of the buildings Soon after, Nazi politics put an end to the liberties of the
IMAX F-3, Sony Center, Potsdamer Str. 4, tel. 26 06 have the simple, concrete facades that the Communist govern- group, which was branded ‘culturally bolshevistic’ and it
64 00, www.cinestar-imax.de. Tickets €8.50/6.70, ment could afford. The small shops in the area mostly deal in was forced to move to Berlin. Many members emigrated to Berlinische Galerie G-4, Alte Jakobstr. 124-128, KB,
Tue €6.70. toys and souvenirs and tourists gladly fill the sunny tables at the the USA before the war broke out, and work was continued MHallesches Tor, tel. 78 90 26 00, www.berlinischegal-
restaurants that face the Spree River. On Rathausstraße, there’s there. This museum holds a large room with examples of erie.de. This museum for modern art, photography, architecture,
a row of restaurants that flaunt old-fashioned Berlin cuisine and Bauhaus interiors, models of buildings and a collection of and artist archives concentrates 120 years worth of creativity
atmosphere. Other rebuilt historic buildings in the area date to the original furniture, including Marcel Breuer’s famous 1926 forged in Berlin. Artists represent the Secession, Expressionist,
1700s, such as the Ephraim-Palais and Knoblauchhaus. Both have steel tube chair. Bauhaus’ influence on everyday design is im- Dada, New Objectivity movements, and those representing
changing exhibits related to Berlin. mense - after a visit here, you’ll start noticing it everywhere. divided Berlin. Giants of German art include Heinrich Zille, Otto
QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Tue. Admission Wed-Fri €6/3, Dix, George Grosz, Hannah Höch and Wolf Vostell. A much-needed
Potsdamer Platz E/F-4,, MPotsdamer Pl.. Once the Sat-Mon €7/4 (including audio guide in German, English, addition to the museum scene. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed
modern heart of a thriving metropolis, this urban centre French, Italian or Spanish). Tue. Admission €6/3. Every 1st Monday of the month: €2.
was heavily damaged in the war, and suffered again when
remaining buildings were pulled down to make way for the
Wall’s death strip. After years of construction in the mid-90s,
skyscrapers have added a cosmopolitan and glassy edge to
DEUTSCHE BANK &
Gendarmenmarkt F-3, Charlottenstr, MI, MFran- the city. The literal Potsdamer Platz is an intersection, and THE SOLOMON R. GUGGENHEIM
zösische Str.. Twin cathedrals-turned-museums (dating the east side of it, known as Leipziger Platz, is slowly building F O U N D AT I O N
to the early 1700s) and the Konzerthaus (from 1818, by
Carl Langhans) make up this classic square in Berlin. It’s
so classic Berlin that with the adding of a lion statue here,
up in height as well. Potsdamer Platz’s most popular public
space and architectural attraction is The Sony Center, with
its huge atrium and tent-like roof. It’s best to view at night
Grey Area
a fountain there, the film production team of Jackie Chan’s
Around the World in Eighty Days turned it into 19th-century
London in 2003. Luxury hotels use their position bordering
for its impressive lighting. The neighbouring DaimlerChrysler
complex holds architecture by Renzo Piano and Richard Rog-
ers, and the Arkaden shopping mall, with rather humdrum
Julie Mehretu
it as their drawing card. The square’s name stems from
the mid-1700s when military regiments were stationed
shops, but the best gelato café in the city. 28.10.09
Reichstag/Bundestag F-3, Platz der Republik 1, TG,
here. The Deutscher Dom (tel. 22 73 04 31) is home to a
museum on the development of the German Parliamentary MUnter den Linden, tel. 22 73 21 52, www.bundestag. – 6.1.10
system, not dull at all if you’re a politics buff. You’ll have to de/htdocs_e/visitors. The name together wi th i ts

Julie Mehretu, Berliner Plätze, 2008 /2009 © Julie Mehretu


read German or French to enjoy the Französischer Dom’s (tel. monumental size make most people associate Germany’s
229 17 60) exhibit on the contributions of French Huguenots neoclassical parliamentary building with the Nazis, but
to Berlin’s development, beginning in the late 1600s. Q Hitler and his party have little history here. After hosting
Deutscher Dom open 10:00-18:00, closed Monday. parliamentary sessions since 1894, one month after Hitler
was appointed chancellor in January 1933, it was set on fire
by Dutch communist Marinus van der Lubbe. In the years
during which it abutted the Wall as a conference centre, West
Tourist information Berliners played football on its lawn, while later artist Christo
famously wrapped it in cloth. It did not serve as parliament
Berlin Infostore E-2, Hauptbahnhof station, tel. 25 again until a reunited German government returned to Berlin
00 25, www.berlin-tourist-information.de. The help- in 1999. Renovated by Sir Norman Foster, this building is
ful staff at the official Berlin tourist offices can provide a perhaps the most public federal building in the world through Unter den Linden 13 / 15 · 10117 Berlin
wide range of information and publications. Most offices its glass-dome tourist attraction. On the rooftop, photographs Phone + 49 (0)30 20 20 93 - 0
will stay open longer than normal this summer. QOpen documenting the building’s history circle the rim above the www.deutsche-guggenheim.de
08:00 - 22:00. Also at F-2, Reichstag kiosk; F-2, Bran- parliament chamber. Two ramps spiral up the side of the dome, 10 a.m. to 8 p.m. · Thu to 10 p.m.
denburger Tor (south wing, open 10:00 - 18:00); D-3, an engineering feat even more fascinating than the panoramic Mon admission free
Budapester Str. (Europa Centre); C-3, Kurfürstendamm view from the top. Avoid long queues by arriving early or late,
21 (passage). or by booking at the Dachgarten restaurant. QOpen 08:00 -
24:00. Last admission at 22:00. Admission free.

u18_JM_ANZEIGE_IYP_42.indd 1 26.10.2009 14:32:36 Uhr


Berlin In Your Pocket berlin.inyourpocket.com berlin.inyourpocket.com December 2009 - January 2010
62 WHAT TO SEE WHAT TO SEE 63

Bröhan Museum B-3, Schloßstr. 1a, CB, MSophie-


The Museumsinsel museums Charlotte-Pl., tel. 32 69 06 00, www.broehan-museum.
The cluster of majestic nineteenth century neoclassic buildings
on the tip of the island in the Spree makes the trip worthwhile in
itself, although the works inside are not to be missed. Whether
de. A stellar collection of art deco, art nouveau, and art and
craft design awakens post-modern sensibilities, blunted by
so much IKEA and minimalism, to craftsmanship, whimsy
086(807+(.(1 1('<6
and indulgent beauty. In addition to the permanent collec- TWO DAYS IN BERLIN – IMAGES OF A CITY
you want to visit one or all, Museuminsel offers the avid or the tion (spanning 1889-1939) of porcelain, lamps, vases, and
temperate museum-goer a number of impressive collections furnishings, are paintings, including those by Peter Behrens Special Exhibition until January 31, 2010
of art, history and ethnology, covering many facets of ancient and Bruno Paul, as well as special exhibitions. QOpen 10:00
and oriental culture, as well as their cross-overs into modernity. - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission €5/4.
One of the museums is closed for long-term renovations,
but the Bodemuseum has been gathering interest since its Deutsche Guggenheim F-3, Unter den Linden 13-15,
reopening in October 2006. Admission to the museums is MI, MFranzösische Str., tel. 202 09 30, www.deutsche-
free during the last four hours on Thursday. guggenheim-berlin.de. Distancing itself as far as possible
from the conservative financial image, Deutsche Bank in
Alte Nationalgalerie G-3, Bodestr. 1-3, MI, MHacke- a unique joint venture with the Solomon R. Guggenheim
scher Markt, tel. 20 90 55 77, www.smb.museum. Foundation, hosts world renowned contemporary artists
Cézanne, Rodin, Monet, Degas and Liebermann are some of in solo shows in this exhibition space designed by Richard
the artists whose works hang around this museum of 19th- Gluckman. Four annual art exhibitions span classic modernism
century art. Head to the top floor for the German Romantics. to contemporary works. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Thu 10:00 -
The temple-like structure itself was built in 1876, and is sur- 22:00. Admission €4/3, free Mon. Free guided tours at 18:00.
rounded by a beautifully battered collonade. QOpen 10:00
- 18:00, Thu 10:00 - 22:00. Closed Mon. Admission €8/4. Deutsches Historisches Museum F-3, Unter den
Linden 2, MI, MHackescher Markt, tel. 20 30 40, www.
Altes Museum G-3, Am Lustgarten, MI, MHackescher dhm.de. Who’d have thought to look for a Prussian war chest
Markt, tel. 20 90 55 77, www.smb.museum. This in this early 18th-century building sitting pretty-in-pink by the
neoclassic building by Prussia’s star architect Karl Friedrich Spree? This former arsenal houses the German History Mu-
Schinkel was custom-made for the art collection of the royal seum, with its dazzling new extension designed by architect
Hohenzollerns of Berlin in 1830. Classical antiquities became I.M. Pei. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Admission €5.
the focus in 1904, and today the ground floor of the museum
uses pottery and sculptures to take you on a well-presented PARISER PLATZ 4A · 10117 BERLIN · AT BRANDENBURG GATE
Gemäldegalerie E-4, Matthäikirchpl. 8, TG, MPotsdamer
tour through ancient Greek history. Upstairs is the temporary Pl., tel. 266 29 51, www.museen-berlin.de. Berlin’s largest PHONE +49 30 20653570 · DAILY 10 AM – 6 PM · WWW.THEKENNEDYS.DE
home to the Egyptian Museum (same ticket). QOpen 10:00 art museum has 72 rooms full of works spanning the 13th to © WILL MCBRIDE, KENNEDY, BRANDT UND ADENAUER, BERLIN, 26.06.1963 © THOMAS BILLHARDT, SILVESTER AM BRANDENBURGER TOR, BERLIN, 1989
- 18:00, Wed 10:00.22:00. Admission €8/4. 18th centuries. German masters include Dürer, Cranach the Elder,
Bode Museum G-3, Monbijoubrücke, MI, MHacke- and Holbein. The Italian works of Botticelli, Titian, Raphael and with the phonetically spelled words Ish bin ein Bearliener
scher Markt, tel. 266 36 66, www.smb.museum. After Memorials others are from the 13th to 16th century, those of the Dutch from is now on display, together with the suitcase he held when
a long restoration, the opulent Bode Museum has reopened, the 15th and 16th centuries. The Rembrandt collection, one of he was shot in Texas a few months later, and hundreds of
once again making available a variety of beautiful artefacts Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe the world’s largest, has 16 works. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Thu photos documenting the Kennedy family’s history. QOpen
ranging from sculpture and European painting collections, F-3, Ebertstr, corner Behrenstr, MI, MUnter den 10:00 - 22:00. Closed Mon. Admission €8/€4. 10:00 - 18:00. Admission €7/3,50.
many religious and/or morbid, to the Byzantine wing, which of- Linden, www.holocaust-mahnmal.de. This bluntly
fers insight into the daily life of a disappeared culture (including named memorial avoids any vagueness surrounding Hamburger Bahnhof E-2, Invalidenstr. 50-51, TG, Märkisches Museum (City Museum) G-3, Am Köll-
a popular contemporary gambling machine). QOpen 10:00 the term Holocaust. Six million Jews are estimated to MLehrter Bahnhof, tel. 39 78 34 12, www.hamburger- nischen Park 5, MMärkisches Museum, tel. 24 00 21
- 18:00, Thu 10:00 - 22:00. Admission €8/4. have been killed by the Nazis during the Holocaust and bahnhof.de. If trains still stopped in this converted station, 62, www.stadtmuseum.de. Berlin’s city museum is set in
this site serves as Germany’s national memorial to now a modern art museum, it surely would have more visitors. an impressive purpose-built complex emulating local archi-
Eg yptian Museum G-3, Am Lustgar ten, MI, those victims. The design by American architect Peter But those curious about the expressiveness of a sculpture tectural styles and donned with a brick tower. Inside, Berlin’s
MHackescher Markt, tel. 20 90 55 77, www.smb. Eisenmann consists of 2,700 concrete pillars of varying made of animal tallow (Joseph Beuys) or urban dwellers fix- cultural history with exhibitions about diverse aspects of life
museum. Until the adjacent Neues Museum is finished in height, creating an undulating landscape that fills two ated by bars of neon lighting (Dan Flavin) should make the in the city is displayed in 50 rooms. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00,
2009, the excellent Egyptian Museum and Papyrus Collec- city blocks. The memorial has an undergound informa- effort to get here. Andy Warhol and Marcel Duchamp are the Wed 12:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. Admission €4/2, Wed free.
tion are housed on the top floor of the Altes Museum build- tion centre. Q Memorial open 24 hours. Admission other familiar stars of this post-1960s collection. QOpen
ing (ticket valid for both). The best and most spectacular free. Information Centre open Tue-Sun 10:00-19:00 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 20:00, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Martin-Gropius-Bau F-4, Niederkirchnerstr. 7, KB,
Egyptian finds are displayed here, including the famous (Oct - March, last admission 18:15) and Tue-Sun 10:00- Mon. Admission €8/4. MPotsdamer Pl., tel. 25 48 60, www.gropiusbau.de.
busts of Queen Nefertiti and King Echnaton. QOpen 10:00 20:00 (April - Sept, last admission 19:15).Closed 24 to Dusty pink brick, gilded mosaics, stucco work run riot - this is
- 18:00, Thu 10:00 - 22:00. Admission €8/4. 26 Dec, 31 Dec and 1 Jan. Jewish Museum F-4, Lindenstr. 9-14, KB, MHallesches the work of Great Uncle Gropius, not Walter ‘Bauhaus’ Gropius.
Tor, tel. 25 99 33 00, www.jmberlin.de. The famous zinc- Completed in 1881, the beauty once held an arts and crafts
Pergamon Museum G-3, Am Kupfergraben, MI, Neue Wache F-3, Unter den Linden 4, MI, MFried- plated fortress designed by Daniel Libeskind contains a museum and nothing on the touristy block can hold a candle
MHackescher Markt, tel. 20 90 55 55, www.smb. richstr.. Germany’s national war memorial is housed moving perspective on the many ways in which German life to it. Today the Martin-Gropius-Bau hosts excellent touring
museum. The Pergamon has the best of Berlin’s classical within the former royal guard house of the Prussians. The and Jewish history are intricately interwoven. The interior shows. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Tue. Admission €7.50/6.
antiquities: the Greek Pergamon Altar, the market gate of neoclassic building (1819) was the first commission the contains dark ‘voids’ for contemplation, but the exhibits cover
Miletus and the blue-tiled Ishtar Gate and processional famed Karl Friedrich Schinkel received in Berlin. The sole much more than the Holocaust chapter of Jewish history in Museum für Asiatische Kunst (Asian art museum)
way from Babylon. The Pergamon Altar’s enormous frieze image inside is that of a woman cradling her son, though Germany. All texts are also in English. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Lansstraße 8, Berlin- Dahlem, MDahlem-Dorf, tel. 830
depicts the battle between the gods and the giants, with the son is an adult and has presumably lost his life on the Mon 10:00 - 22:00. Admission €5/2.50, changing exhibitions 14 38, www.smb.museum. Alongside special exhibitions
gals like Athena, Aphrodite and Artemis wiping out their battlefield. The sculpture is an enlargement of a pieta by €4/2; combined ticket €7/3.50. dealing with everything from Qing-dynasty painting to archi-
opponents like robed Charlie’s Angels. Near-East antiqui- Käthe Kollwitz, a Berlin artist who was the first woman to tecture, this museum has an impressive permanent collection
ties, with an emphasis on Assyria and Iran, and Islamic allowed membership to the Prussian Academy of Art in Kennedy Museum F-3, Pariser Platz 4a, MI, MUnter of Indian, Chinese, Japanese and Korean art and archaeology.
art, including the great Mshatta palace facade round 1919. The inscription in front of the sculpture reads To den Linden, tel. 20 65 35 70, www.thekennedys.de. On Each tradition has its own gallery, and in the centre, a room
out the museum’s treasure chest. The audioguide has the victims of war and tyranny. Above it is an open skylight 26 June 1963, US President John F. Kennedy visited Berlin. He dedicated to Buddhist art. Chinese and Japanese painting
an instructive 30-minute highlights tour. QOpen 10:00 - that was added in 1931, when the building first became peered over the Wall at Brandenburger Tor, and, impressed and calligraphy are of special interest, as well as Japanese
18:00, Thu 10:00 - 22:00. Admission €8/4. a war memorial. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. after looking totalitarianism in the eyes, scribbled some woodcuts. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 18:00.
last-minute amendments to his famous speech. This note Closed Mon. Admission €6/3.

Berlin In Your Pocket berlin.inyourpocket.com berlin.inyourpocket.com December 2009 - January 2010


64 WHAT TO SEE WHAT TO SEE 65

Museum für Film und Fernsehen E-4, Potsdamer Str. 18th century French painting outside France plus a beauti- Air Service Berlin Schönefeld airport, tel. 60 91 37
2 (Sony Center), TG, MPotsdamer Pl., tel. 300 90 30, ful Baroque garden landscape, mausoleum, and Belvedere 30/0180-570 87 08, www.air-service-berlin.de. If you’re a Berlin Underworlds
www.filmmuseum-berlin.de. Hooray for Hollywood, but teahouse with a porcelain exhibition. Arriving via bus N°109 closet balloonist, or always had a special place in your heart for
remember that some of the personalities that gave it glamour or 210 will save you a 15-minute walk from any of the nearest the DC-3, Air Service Berlin will sweep you off your feet. You can go The Berliner Unterwelten Association allows you to
and style came from Germany. Actors Marlene Dietrich and Pe- S- and U-Bahn stations. Q Open Old Palace 09:00 - 17:00. for an hour-long aerial tour of town (€99) in a beautifully restored experience Berlin´s history from an unusual perspective,
ter Lorre, directors Billy Wilder and Josef von Sternberg came New Wing 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Admission Old Palace 1944 Dakota DC-3, the plane that helped Berliners beat the Soviet through its underground installations dating back to the
out of a country with a strong film-making tradition. Photo €10, New Wing €6. blockade, and that is a familiar sight in Berlin’s skies. You can also Cold War, WWII or earlier. Though predominantly in the
stills, footage, set designs and costumes provide glimpses tour the city by waterplane (starting from I-4, Treptower Park), heli- spaces below Berlin´s Gesundbrunnen station, tours
of the familiar, and exhibits on Leni Riefenstahl’s shooting of Spectrum Science Centre F-4, Möckernstraße 26, KB copter and zeppelin. If that isn’t enough, you can also go skydiving. are also offered in several other complexes usually not
Olympia (1936) and Nazi entertainment c.q. propaganda films (Technical Museum), MGleisdreieck, tel. 90 25 42 84, accessible to the public. The various tours are held every
will impress ‘seen-that’ film buffs. The museum ends with www.sdtb.de. Four floors of science within the Technikmu- Berlin City Tour, tel. 68 30 26 41, www.berlin-city-tour.de. day, except Tuesday and Wednesday, and most of the
special effects and science fiction. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Thu seum complex. Great for inquisitive children who can do 250 Doubledecker buses with live English commentary circle the main tours take place year round. With prior notification, tours
10:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. Admission €6, audioguide free. hands-on experiments with sound, light and air, answering sights all day. The full tour lasts 1hr 45mins. Hop on at Tauntzien- can be arranged for groups at other times.
questions like why the sky is blue, what happens if you stand straße 16, Town Hall or Brandenburger Tor. Q Tickets €14/11/5.
Naturkundemuseum (Natural history museum) F-2, between parallel mirrors, and how to play a laser guitar, and Tours in English:
Invalidenstr. 43, tel. 20 93 85 91, www.naturkundemuse- more. Q Open Tue-Fri 09:00-17:30, Sat, Sun 10:00-18:00, Berlin Trails, tel. 34 76 64 64, tours@berlin-trails.com. See Tour 1, Dark Worlds, a bunker from the Nazi era: year
um-berlin.de. All the wonders of nature under one roof; a grand Mon closed. Admission (with Technical Museum) €4,50/2,50. Berlin’s highlights by bus - a small minivan with your guide at the round Thu-Mon at 11:00, April to October daily at 11:00.
collection illustrating the evolution of life as well as the diversity steering wheel, that is. Choose between several tours, from a 2,5hr Tour 2, The Flak Tower Humboldthain, buried under
and beauty of nature. Due to renovations, the largest mounted Story of Berlin C-4, Kurfürstendamm 207-208, CB, classic city tour to the full-on 8hr tour that includes bunkers and rubble; Apr-Oct: Thu at 13:00.
dinosaur in the world and some of his friends are off-limits, MUhlandstr., tel. 88 72 01 00, www.story-of-berlin.de. Stasi prisons. Pick-ups from hotels and tailor-made trips possible. Tour 3, Subways, bunkers and the Cold War; Sat-Mon
but then there’s still the aardvarks, the early 20th-century For those whose eyes glaze over every time they step into a year round at 13:00.
dioramas, meteorites, the most famous fossil of Earth history museum, the bells, whistles, films, and original artifacts of this Severin & Kühn, tel. 880 41 90, www.severin-kuehn-
(the ancient bird Archaeopteryx lithographica), giant shells and multimedia museum are sure to engage your attention and berlin.de. Big yellow doubledeckers depart every 15 minutes Tickets (no reservations, just show up) and the meeting
the gorilla Bobby from the primates hall. QOpen 09:30 - 17:00, leave you better informed about the city’s turbulent history. to do a two-hour tour of the city with 14 stops where you can point are at the southern entrance hall of the Gesundb-
Sat, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission €6/€3.50. In the corridors covering the Nazi era, you walk over book break the trip and reboard. You can combine the tour with a river runnen station (exit Humboldthain Park, Brunnenstraße).
bindings, hearing footsteps tread on broken glass. Lest you cruise for €26. Q Tickets €18. Buses run from 10:00 - 15:00. For more information contact www.berliner-unterwelten.
Neue Nationalgalerie E-4, Potsdamer Str. 50, TG, end on the positive note of Berlin’s reunification, you can take de, tel. 49 91 05 17.
MPotsdamer Pl., tel. 266 26 51, www.museen-berlin.
de. You’d think that the art world had gone to minimalist ex-
a guided tour of the functional nuclear fallout shelter beneath
the complex, built to shelter 3000 people for 14 days - there Viewpoints
tremes when passing Mies van der Rohe’s empty glass box
of a museum; the 20th century treasures are all underground.
were no plans for what to do after that period. Though pricey,
this is probably the best museum to visit with children, though
Berlin’s most visited viewpoint is the Reichstag dome
(see Main sights). Great views can be had from the casino Zoo & Aquarium
It was here that the wildly successful “MoMA in Berlin” exhibit mind to leave the bunker before they play the recording of on the top floor of the Park Inn hotel on Alexanderplatz. Zoologischer Garten C-4, Hardenbergpl. 8 and Bu-
was on view 24 hours during its last three days. Now that the a WWII bombing-raid. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00. Admission For Food with a view see the Restaurants chapter. dapester Str. 34, CB, MZoologischer Garten, tel. 25
guest exhibit is gone, the permanent collection greats: Otto €9.80/€8. Last admission and bunker tour at 18:00. 40 10, www.zoo-berlin.de. Visitor numbers to Berlin’s
Dix, Georg Grotz, Paul Klee, Wassily Kandinsky, Picasso and Fernsehturm G-3, Panoramastr. 1a, MI, MAlexanderpl., fantastic zoo have rocketed since the birth of Knut the polar
Leger, among others, can make themselves at home again. Technical Museum (Deutsches Technikmuseum) tel. 242 33 33, www.berlinerfernsehturm.de. The skewered bear rocked the world - and in 2007, over 3 million people
QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 10:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - F-4, Trebbiner Str. 9, MGleisdreieck, tel. 90 25 40, www. disco ball may well have been Socialist Germany’s most innovative visited, up 20% from 2006. There’s good reason too, even if
18:00. Closed Mon. Admission €6/3. dtmb.de. Unmistakably recognisable from the U-Bahn by the design, as its form predated the light-throwing device of the ABBA you’ve had enough of cuddly white bears; with some 14,000
Douglas C-47 plane suspended above the new aeronautics era by about 10 years. The 368-metre television broadcast tower, animals of nearly 1400 species, it’s the most varied zoo in
Photography museum (Helmut Newton Stiftung) building, this is a huge complex set in and around an old freight completed in 1969 and 70m higher than the Eiffel tower, even has a the world. The kids will have their faces glued to the glass
C-4, Jebensstr. 2, CB, MZoologischer Garten, tel. 20 station rail depot, with technical exhibitions, the Spectrum restaurant with a rotating floor (phone ahead for a table). Whether for hours at the separate aquarium complex. Here, fish,
90 55 55. The late fashion photographer Helmut Newton science centre with 250 hands-on experiments, and a park one’s in the east or west, the tower’s round head peering over reptiles and amphibians of all shapes, colours and sizes can
fled Berlin with his Jewish family in the 1930s but his love with a Dutch windmill and a brewery. QOpen 09:00 - 17:30, rooftops certainly brings a level of humour to the skyline. Photos be viewed at close quarters in landscape basins and tanks.
for his hometown remained. Berlin has the honour of giving Sat, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission €4.50/2.50. circling the enclosed observation level point out the landmarks for Highlights for most children are the blacktip reef sharks and
him his final resting place this year, as well as opening this you. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. Admission €9.50/€4.50. the crocodiles, though the jellyfish, corals and the rare lizard-
new museum, made up of 1,000 photographs he donated Temporäre Kunsthalle Berlin G-2, Schlossfreiheit like tuatara also deserve attention. The kids will love you
to the city before his death. Only 250 works will be on view 1, MI, MAlexanderplatz, tel. (+49)(0)30 25 76 20 40, Panorama-Punkt E-4, Neue Potsdamer Str. 1, TG, forever if their visit if it coincides with the daily feeding times;
at a time. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission €6. www.kunsthalle-berlin.com. The temporary blue-and-white MPotsdamer Pl., tel. 25 54 21 04, www.panoramapunkt. polar bears at 10:30, penguins at 13:45, wolves and bears
hall on Berlin’s historical Schlossplatz square is Berlin’s fore- de. Set your stopwatch: the elevator that rises 25 floors up at 14:00, monkeys and pelicans at 15:30. At the aquarium,
Sammlung Berggruen B-3, Schloßstr. 1, CB, MSo- most location for international exhibitions of contemporary Hans Kollhoff’s redbrick skyscraper is apparently Europe’s fast- the sharks, rays and other large fish get fed every second
phie-Charlotte-Pl., tel. 326 95 80, www.museen-berlin. art for the next two years. Apart from offering exhibition est. Button up and walk up one more level for the loftiest view Mon at 15:00, and the crocodiles have dinner on Mon and
de. Picasso fans should not miss this collection. The artist’s space, the cube can be used as a projection screen - both of the modern architecture comprising Potsdamer Platz and Thu at 13:30. QOpen 09:00 - 18:30. Admission €12/9 for
blue and red periods are well represented, as are portraits inside and out. Inside, there’s also the Fiedrichs restaurant everything beyond it. QOpen 11:00 - 20:00. Admission €5/€4. zoo or aquarium, combined €18/14.
of his lovers. Providing variety are works by Matisse and and the König bookshop, selling art-related publications.
Klee. After the audio guide’s voice gives the interpretation QOpen 11:00 - 18:00, Thu 11:00 - 21:00. Admission free.
of a work, you sometimes hear the brittle with age, German
accent of collector Heinz Berggruen himself, sharing an
anecdote regarding the artists he knew personally. QOpen
10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission €8/€4.
Sightseeing tours
It’s unnarrated, but the cheapest tour through town is on
BERLINER UNTERWELTEN E.V.
Kg[a]lq^gjl`]=phdgjYlagfYf\<g[me]flYlagfg^KmZl]jjYf]Yf9j[`al][lmj]
buses N°100 and 200. These public double-decker buses

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Schloss Charlottenburg A-3, Spandauer Damm 20- run between Zoo Bahnhof and Alexanderplatz, with the N°100
24, CB, MRichard-Wagner-Platz, Sophie-Charlotte-Pl., passing the Tiergarten and Reichstag and the N°200 taking
tel. 32 09 14 40, www.museen-berlin.de. The largest a slightly more southern route via the embassy area and
royal residence in Berlin is Schloss Charlottenburg, named Potsdamer Platz before converging on Unter den Linden. A
for Prussia’s first queen. Though it began as a modest sum- two hour tour (€18) on the yellow, double-decker City Circle
mer palace in 1695, today’s version, distinguished by its bus runs every 15 minutes. Select your language of choice
;gd\OYjYf\OO AAZmfc]jlgmjkaf=f_dak`KhYfak`
505-meter length and central tower, took its final form in 1790. for the recorded narration piped in through headphones.
You can tour the luxurious and largely Rococo and Baroque You can jump on and off at the 14 stops between 10:00 <a^^]j]fllgmjk]n]jq\Yq$]p[]hlLm]&'O]\&œk]]2ooo&Z]jdaf]j%mfl]jo]dl]f&\]
apartments where an eye-glazing number of royal Friedrichs - 18:00. Kurfürstendamm 216 and Alexanderplatz are the 5 Yœ:]jdaf%O]\\af_
KmZoYq2?]kmf\Zjmff]f M0!$kgml`]jf]fljYf[]%`Yddœ:jmff]fkljYž])(0
and Wilhelms resided. Also here is the largest collection of two starting points.

Berlin In Your Pocket berlin.inyourpocket.com berlin.inyourpocket.com December 2009 - January 2010


66 COLD WAR BERLIN POTSDAM 67

Deutsch-Russisches Museum Zwieseler Str. 4 (cor- Part of Berlin’s charm is its proud grittiness, but don’t chide Park Sanssouci , tel. 0331 969 42 02, www.spsg.
ner of Rheinstr.), MKarlshorst, tel. 50 15 08 41, www. yourself for being bourgeois if it gets to you - it got on the de. The low-l ying rococo Schloss Sanssouci has a
museum-karlshorst.de. In the southeast, the building where nerves of Friedrich der Große (Frederick II the Great), too. gorgeous terraced approach. I ts Bildergalerie win g
Germany signed its surrender in May 1945 now serves as the The ruler of Berlin (and all of Prussia) from 1740 to 1786 features works by Rubens, Van Dijck and Caravag gio.
Deutsch-Russisches Museum Berlin-Karlshorst. More rooms built his favorite abode Sanssouci, outside Berlin in the On the opposite side are the Neue Kammern’s guest
focus on World War II, but exhibits include Soviet relations to both town of Potsdam. apar tments. The palace sits within the 290 hectares
East and West Germany and ‘the presence of the war following of Park Sanssouci, which among other sights holds
the war’. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission free. Without a worry was the French name of his palace, though a botantical garden, the Orangerie, Roman baths, the
thanks to considerable care taken by its architect Georg Chinese House, the Neues Palais, and Karl Friedrich
Haus am Checkpoint Charlie (The Wall Museum) Wenzeslaus von Knobelsdorff, craftsmen, and artisans, it is Schinkel’s Schloss Charlot tenh of, wh ose in terior is
F-4, Friedrichstr. 43-45, KB, MKochstr., tel. 253 72 50, hailed as the Versailles of Germany. Sanssouci was intended perhaps the best preserved example of Schinkel’s work.
www.mauer-museum.com. A homespun Great Escape as a summer residence, and though Friedrich stretched out Each sight has its own separate admission charge and
museum of false trunks, tools, videos and stills of tunnel- the seasons he spent here, tourists don’t have the same changing exhibits. A general information office can be
digging - and a submarine - attest to necessity and desire privilege: many buildings close between mid-October and found at the historic windmill, between the Orangerie
being the mother of invention. Visit this museum for dramatic April. The best attractions are open through winter - Park and Schloss Sanssouci. The hilltop Belvedere auf dem
stories of separated lovers, freedom-seeking families, and Sanssouci’s Schloss Sanssouci and Neues Palais; and the Pfingstberg (open 10:00 - 20:00) is a romantic folly
fed-up senior citizens in the GDR who eventually breached Neuer Garten’s Marmorpalais and Schloss Cecilienhof. lookout tower built according to plans of Friedrich Wil-
the Wall. A worthwhile stop, though unfortunately, the poor helm IV and completed in 1863. Q Open 09:00 - 18:00.
translations and outdated texts do little to illuminate the Besides the palaces and parks, the compact town’s centre, Closed Mon. Schloss Sanssouci is open 09:00 - 16:00,
events leading up to the Wall’s construction. The museum half faded and half restored, makes for a pleasant stroll. The closed Mon. The guided tour costs €8; entrance to the
also has art interpreting the concrete division of the city, an Kolonie Alexandrowka is in a park along Puschkinallee, south park (open from dawn to dusk) is free.
exhibit on human rights movements, and film screenings. of the rise to the Belevedere. Quaintly enough, the log cabins
QOpen 09:00 - 22:00. Admission €9.50/5.50. here were built in 1826 for a 12-member Russian choir who Neues Palais, tel. 0331 96 94 255, www.spsg.de.
had helped the Prussians fight Napoleon. Most of the boys Friedrich II preferred the simpler Schloss Sanssouci, but
Stasi Museum (Forschungs- und Gedenkstätte got homesick and eventually left. The redbrick Holländisches this was the palace in which his descendants Wilhelm I
The physical division of Berlin during 28 years, and the Normannenstraße) Ruschestraße 103, Haus 1, FH, Viertel (Dutch quarter) is another failed settlement, but a great and Wilhelm II razzled and dazzled guests. Use the English-
development of two completely separated cities on both MMagdalenenstr., tel. 553 68 54, www.stasimuseum. place to get a meal and browse in some shops. Friedrich Wilhelm language text (€10 deposit) as you follow the German
sides of the Wall that ran between them, has led to huge de. East Germany’s State Security Service or Stasi was I built the small district in the 1730s to attract Dutch craftsmen. guide through studies, bedrooms, and party rooms. The
differences that cannot be erased in a matter of a few responsible for intelligence gathering both at home and stone- and shell-encrusted Muschel Saal is like a grotto
years. Here‘s an overview of sights that give insight into abroad. It spied on its own citizens, sometimes employing Potsdam basics from The Little Mermaid, and amongst so many chande-
life with the Wall. the friends, colleagues, and family of those they wished to Potsdam is just a thirty-minute ride on RE train N°1 or 3 from liers on two floors, it’s Karl Friedrich Schinkel’s ‘crown of
keep an eye on. Today, this humble museum shows the office central Berlin. From Potsdam’s Hauptbahnhof station take kings’ that stands out. QOpen 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Fri.
Alliiertenmuseum (Allied Museum) Clayallee 135, of Erich Mielke, the Stasi minister for 32 years, in its original bus N°695 to get to the city centre and Sansoucci park. More Admission €5.
ZD, MOskar-Helena-Heim, tel. 818 19 90, www.al- dull state. In the former cafeteria you can watch a video of information: Postdam Tourist Information, Am Alten Markt 5,
liiertenmuseum.de. The Allied Museum covers 50 years of Mielke testifying before a panel in 1989. Symbols of Com- tel. 0331 275 58 20, www.potsdam.de. FLUXUS+ Museum Schiffbauergasse 4f, Potsdam, tel.
West German-Allied (US, British, French) relations in the US munist kitsch can be found in one room, and documents in 0331 601 08 90, www.fluxus-plus.de. A new museum
Army movie house Outpost. The prize exhibit is the original German make up the bulk of the exhibits. English tours are displaying changing exhibitions of private collections and lo-
sentry box from the Checkpoint Charlie border crossing. available with advance request. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00, Sat, Spielbank Potsdam cal artists, varying from books, prints and paintings to video
QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Wed. Admission free. Sun 14:00 - 18:00. Admission €3.50. art. There’s a café with pleasant views of the park from the
Together with many other imposing buildings in the area, terrace in summer. QOpen 12:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon.
Berlin Wall Memorial F-2, Bernauer Str. 111, Trabi Safari F-3, Zimmerstr. 97, MStadtmitte, tel. 27 the building housing the Potsdam Spielbank Joker’s Admission €7.50, Tues half price.
MNordbahnhof, tel. 464 10 30, www.berliner-mauer- 59 22 73, www.trabi-safari.de. East Germany’s cuddly Garden casino since 2002 was designed by Frederick the
dokumentationszentrum.de. This excellent information two-stroke 26hp plastic car, recognisable by the charac- Great’s master builder Georg Wenzeslaus von Knobels- Marmorpalais, tel. 0331 969 42 46, www.spsg.
centre covers the Wall’s history in film, slides, and English teristic bem-bem sound and cloud of smoke, has nearly dorff in the 1750s. Recently restored to its former glory, de. First built in 1791 by the man who would next design
text. German speakers can listen to the propaganda of the been wiped off the streets of Berlin. On a Trabi safari you the elegant building now is the venue for card games, the Brandenburger Tor, this early classicist palace on the
Studio at the Barbed Wire broadcasts, which vans blasted are shown how to operate the revolver-like gearshift and roulette and playing machines. shore of Heiliger See was fussed over one last time in
via bullhorns to East German border guards between 1961 then off you go on an hour-long trip through the eastern 1848. The fine furnishings and wares on exhibit include
and 1965. The guards often drowned out the message from part of town in a column of up to six farting Trabis. Choose Spielbank Potsdam, Schloßstr. 14, Potsdam, tel. Wedgewood ceramics. Q Open Sat, Sun 10:00 - 16:00.
the West by playing music. A graffiti-free portion of preserved from a fleet of 60 colourful cars, zebra-striped, cabriolet 0331-290 93 00, www.spielbank-potsdam.de. Open Admission €2.
Wall runs along Bernauer Straße; you can walk behind it and or streched. Find Trabi Safari at the Welt Balloon near 15:00-03:00, playing machines from 11:00. Admission
peer through a crack to see a preserved section of death Checkpoint Charlie. Q Open 10:00 - 18:00. Day trips €5/20, includes credit. Minimum age 18. Dress code: Schloss Cecilienhof, tel. 0331 969 42 44, www.spsg.
strip. One stop by tram M10 from the S-Bahn station. QOpen 10:00-18:00, Night trips 20:00-24:00. From €30/person, smart, jacket required (rental available). de. Twentieth-century history was made when Stalin, Truman,
10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Admission free. book in advance. and Attlee decided the future of postwar Germany during
the August 1945 conference at Schloss Cecilienhof. This
half-timber mansion between two lakes in the Neuer Garten
was finished in 1917. In the same park is the Marmorpalais.
QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Admission €5 including
Marmorpalais (open from 10:00).

Filmpark Babelsberg Großbeerenstr., MBabels-


berg, tel. 0331 721 27 50, www.filmpark.de. Over
3,000 films have been shot at the famous Babelsberg
UFA/DEFA studios, including Fri tz Lang’s Metropolis
(1927). Th e th em epark surroundin g th e studios is
great for children and adults. Though the topics may be
unfamiliar to foreigners, there’s enough action to keep
you amused, including stunt, animal and pirate shows,
studio tours and ‘behind the scenes’ insights into special
effects through the years. Q Open 10:00 - 18:00. Admis-
sion €17/15,50.

Berlin In Your Pocket berlin.inyourpocket.com berlin.inyourpocket.com December 2009 - January 2010


SHOPPING 69

where Soviets and Americans faced off in the Cold War.


The Friedrichstadtpassagen and Galeries Lafayette (with
Europe’s leading publisher a fascinating interior and gourmet basement) are the main
emporiums. Mitte’s maze of streets around Weinmeister-
str. is where to find what’s driving the under-thirty crowd
of locally produced city guides into debt. Half-sewn shirts are the new prêt-a-portier.
Kreuzberg, where the protesting students of 1968 have
grown grey alongside Turkish immigrants, has two main
shopping streets. Between bars and take-out eateries
on Oranienstr. are bookstores, wool specialists, ethnic
Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps

TIRANA BUCHAREST TALLINN ST. PETERSBURG PRAGUE


grocers, internet cafés and Luzifer, a long-time maker of
2007 - 2008 April - May 2006 April - May 2006 April 2006 June - July 2008
monotone linen and wool clothing. Bergmannstr. is less
scruffy but still full of funky gift and household supply
stores, as well as a few clothing stores.
A New Look
We‘ve never looked
Full of people under thirty, Prenzlauer Berg is where to
watch the trends. Kastanianallee and Szredzkistr. are
better: In Your Pocket
gets a makeover
Quick Picks
Your Prague
Blogging

two streets to comb, but you’re likely to find an interesting


Personalized
Bucharest
Our guide to the best Euro Cup 2008
politically incorrect Who’s Playing
Mystic Albania
window display wherever you walk.
comment online & Where to Watch
The Bektashi sect

Don’t get lost Easter Greetings


New Tirana map inside Egg breaking & church
walking…

Touring Narva

Antiques
Russian in Russia
Cool sights at the EU‘s The best ways to discover
eastern border the language

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IYP gets a new
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April 2006 N°24
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new look inside
LOOK

Stroll Kurfürstendamm, particularly between Uhlandstr. takes all the fun out of having a private driver. Keithstr.,
Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps
and Adenauerpl., for Versace, Jil Sander, Gucci, and Sonia a two-minute walk from U-Bahn station Wittenbergpl., is
COLOGNE BELFAST RIGA BERLIN Rykiel. If you’re looking for something other than the same lined with shops. The area around Nollendorfpl. - Eise-
Enjoy your
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June - July 2006 February - March 2008 April - May 2008 June - July 2008 old same old, follow Berliners to the boutiques of Annette nacher Str., Motzstr., and Nollendorfstr. - is another centre
Euro 2008
Where to watch the
football
Peterman and Nanna Kuckuck on Bleibtreustr. of dust-collection. The holdings of the shops along Geor-
Football events
Win or lose, this is
where to party
Babelsberg
Filmpark
With the exception of Berlin’s proudest department store, genstr. can’t be too precious because their roof is the
Kaufhaus des Westens (KaDeWe, ‘Department store of S-Bahn track between Hackescher Markt and Friedrichstr.
Film-themed family fun
River tours
Wine and dine on the
Rhine

the west’), Tauentzienstr. is lined with mass market retail


Titanic Made In
Belfast Festival
Celebrating the legend
Going Postal
Problems with the mail stores. KaDeWe has an excellent selection of foods as well
as a vast array of services, from umbrella repair to tailoring.
in her home city
Jÿrmala
Beach life is heating up

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St. Patrick

Mitte’s credit card trail is Friedrichstr., between Unter


Another global icon gets
the superstar treatment
Liepåja
The west coast beckons

Including

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Berlin‘s Luxury Fashion Store


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VILNIUS COLOGNE WROCLAW ZADAR ZAGREB Kurfürstendamm 64 – 10707 Berlin – 0049 (0) 30 883 37 31
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www.inyourpocket.com berlin.inyourpocket.com December 2009 - January 2010


70 SHOPPING SHOPPING 71

large department stores. With some 180 shops, restaurants children up to 6 years. The German-made cotton clothes are
and cafés, there’s something for everyone here, from fashion tausche Taschen functional, trendy, colourful and safe. Online sales available.
to books and groceries to music and film. Both parents and QOpen 11:30 - 19:00, Sat 11:30 - 16:00. Closed Sun.
children will love the massive kid’s area dedicated to them, Different every day. tausche Budapester Schuhe C-4,, CB, MUhlandstr., tel. 882
which even has a cinema. Q Open Mon-Sat 10:00-21:00 Taschen stands for bags 36 76. Men’s shoes get all the fondling nowadays - this shop
(lower level from 08:00). Food court also open Sun 11:00- with exchangeable flaps in carries handcrafted Italian, English, American, and Hungarian
19:00. Kindercity daily 10:00-18:00, LOXX daily 10:00-19:00. more than 100 different de- leather shoes. The women’s shoes, primarily by top Italian
City Quartier Dom Aquarée G-3, Karl-Liebknecht-Str. signs. Two flaps are included designers, rely on mechanical precision. QOpen 10:00 -
and Spandauer Str., MI, MHackescher Markt. There’s in the price of one bag. Vari- 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun.
more to this modern block than the ultra splashy Radisson ous insets equip your bag to Cijada G-1, Danziger Str. 15,
SAS hotel and the Sea Life aquarium. A sunny terrace café suit any occasion. tel. 48 49 77 16, www.ci-
faces the Spree River and gift shops front its Karl-Liebknecht- jada.de. For women whose
Straße side. Through May 7, the gallery Schoen + Nalepa Raumerstr. 8, tel. 40 30 first priority in buying shoes is
(entrance St. Wolfgang Str. 2) presents the works of Nikolai 17 70, fax 40 30 17 71, beauty, style and elegance,
Makarov, a Moscow-born artist who now makes his homes in info@tausche.de, www. Cijada is an essential stop on
Berlin and New York. His meditative work has been poetically tausche.de. any shopping tour. This inde-
linked to composer John Cage: “John Cage taught us to hear pendent shoe boutique offers
silence - Nikolai Makarov lets us see it.” a range of high-quality footwear that is hand-picked to keep
Galeria Kaufhof G-3, Alexanderpl. 9, MI, MAlexan- they even then liberal tree-huggers? Amongst the very cool pace with the very latest fashion trends. Brands include
derpl., tel. 24 74 30, www.galeria-kaufhof.de. The best boutiques selling shoes with tendon-thin heels, it’s refresh- Birkenstock, Paco Gil, Minnetonka, Fred de la Bretoniere and
department store east of Friedrichstraße is modern inside ing to find a shoe store that wants you to survive walking Bronx. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.
but a concrete and metal monstrosity seen from outside. Berlin’s uneven cobblestone streets. Comfort is even part East Berlin Supply Store G-2, Alte Schönhauser Str.
The store is linked to an excellent Saturn outlet (electronics of the design of the line by catwalk supermodel Heidi Klum. 33/34, MI, MWeinmeisterstr., tel. 24 72 41 89. Put that
and CDs) via the large 1st floor sports department. QOpen QOpen 11:00 - 20:00. Prussian eagle on your chest in cotton, or wrap an “East Berlin” belt
09:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. BOSS Orange G-2/3, Max-Beer-Str. 2, MWeinmeis- around your waist. You won’t find these T-Shirt designs anywhere
Galeries Lafayette F-3,, MI, MFranzösische Str., tel. terstr., tel. 847 10 78 80. A fantastic new BOSS shop else and many make cool references to Berlin. Bags, jewellery, and
20 94 80, www.lafayette-berlin.de. French Huguenots did aimed at the young, cool end of the market. The sawed-up those wrist bands that serve no purpose round out the selection.
much for Berlin’s cultural development in the late 1600s, and cars at the entrance may seem unusual, but then there’s QOpen 12:00 - 20:00, Sat 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Sun.
the rebirth of Friedrichstraße in the late 1990s wouldn’t have the underground gallery, in what looks like an air-raid bunker. Escada F-3, Friedrichstr. 176-179, MI, MStadtmitte,
been possible without this posh French department store. The wacky changing rooms top anything we’ve seen. A bar in tel. 238 64 04. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00.
Architect Jean Nouvel designed the building, which has a the shop serves ‘stylefood’ should you get peckish. QOpen Closed Sun.
fabulous gaping glass funnel in the centre. Less is indeed 11:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. Hilfiger Denim Store Rosenthaler Str. 38, tel. 24 63
more, as you’ll see on the price tag of every dainty accessory. Bubble.kid G-3, Rosa-Luxemburg-Strasse 7, MI, MAl- 20 91, www.hilfigerdenim.com. Denim with sexy patterns,
QOpen 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. exanderplatz, tel. 94 40 42 52, www.bubblekid.de. A cool styles and trendy colours in a designer shop. Three
Kaufhaus des Westens (KaDeWe) D-4, Tauentzien- young Berlin label producing creative fashion for babies and other outlets in town.
Books str. 21, CB, MWittenbergpl., tel. 212 10, www.kadewe.
de. Berlin’s answer to Harrod’s has seven huge floors with two
Berlin Story F-3, Unter den Linden 26, MI, MFriedrich- devoted completely to gourmet food and drink. Have oysters
str., tel. 20 45 38 42. The city is the muse of Berlin Story, at the champagne bar to take the sting out of your shopping
which has souvenirs in addition to books about and guides to spree. If anything has come undone on your travels, there
the city. A 25-minute film on Berlin, a 1930 city model, and a
history exhibit are part of the free exhibition upstairs. Those
interested in the film The Downfall, about Hitler’s last days
in his bunker, should take a flip through the book The Führer
are myriad repair and cleaning services at hand to make it
all better, dear. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Fri 10:00 - 22:00, Sat
09:30 - 20:00. Closed Sun.
Quartier 206 F-3, Friedrichstr. 71, MI, MStadmitte,
The Original!
Bunker, available in English only here. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00, tel. 20 94 62 40, www.quartier206.de. Berlin’s design Classic shopping and dining!
Sun 10:00 - 20:00. and lifestyle department store par excellence. An elegant,
Books in Berlin C-4, Goethestr. 69, CB, MErnst- cosmopolitan world of shopping on two storeys with an
Reuter-Pl., tel. 313 12 33, www.booksinberlin.de. A imaginative, exclusive and trend-setting range of items. Cover-
nook devotedly entirely to English-language books. QOpen ing 2,500 square metres of retail space in three interlinked
12:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. street blocks, and including international designer fashion,
Dussmann F-3, Friedrichstr. 90, MI, MFriedrichstr., accessories, popular labels, cosmetics, jewellery, books, art Over 80
tel. 20 25 24 10. Four floors make Dussmann the biggest and flowers, Quartier 206 offers an enriching shopping experi- businesses:
bookstore in Berlin. The English-language section is limited, ence. QOpen 10:30 - 19:30, Sat 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun.
but music and DVDs are for sale on the ground floor, there
shopping, bars,
restaurants and
are comfy balcony areas for reading upstairs and there’s a
cafe on the top floor. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. Fashion entertainment
Marga Schoeller Bücherstube C-4, Knesebeckstr. Adidas Store G-2/3, Münzstr. 13, MI, MWeinmeister-
33, CB, MUhlandstr., tel. 881 11 12. A tightly-packed str., tel. 27 59 43 81. QOpen 11:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun.
shop of English-language literature, as well as academic Bag Ground
books. QOpen 09:30 - 19:00, Thu, Fri 09:30 - 20:00, Sat G-2, Gipsstr. 23b, MWeinmeisterstr.,
09:30 - 16:00. Closed Sun. tel. 27 58 31 77, w w w.bag-ground. How to reach us:
com. Classi c, darin g an d cu te quali t y A Zoo: U2, U9 · AWittenbergplatz: U1, U2, U3
Department stores handbags from a variety of Germany and
in ter na ti onal d e si gn ers. Pri c e s s tar t ? Zoo: S5, S7, S75, S9
Alexa Centre G-3, Alexanderplatz, Grunerstr. 20, aroun d €35. Q Op en 12:00 - 20:00. = Zoo: X9, X10, X34, 100, 109, 110, 200, 204,
MAlexanderplatz, tel. 269 34 00, www.alexacentre. Closed Sun.
com. The Alexa mall is the new focus of Alexanderplatz Birkenstock Shop Berlin G-3, Neue Schönhauser Str. 245, 249, M45, M46, M49 Tauentzienstr. 9 –12 · 10789 Berlin
square, which was built as the proud, modern centre of East 6-7, MI, MHackescher Markt, tel. 28 09 96 94. Made in = Europa-Center: M19, M29, M46
Berlin. The remarkable spanish-designed building is inspired Germany since 1774. One has to wonder about what repu- Tel.: 030/26 49 79 40 · www.24EC.de
by Berlin’s golden age in the 1920s and the city’s tradition of tation 18th century Birkenstock sandal wearers had - were

Berlin In Your Pocket berlin.inyourpocket.com berlin.inyourpocket.com December 2009 - January 2010


72 SHOPPING SHOPPING 73

Heidenreich jewellery Veronica Pohle Markets Onitsuka Tiger Store Berlin


Kunst und Nostalgiemarkt F-3, Kupfergraben, MI,
The jeweller y shop Veronica Pohle C-4, Kurfürstendamm 64, MAde- MFriedrichstr.. Lining the way to the Pergamon Museum In a remarkable ambiance
near the Kulturbrau- nauerplatz, tel. +49 (0)30 883 37 31, secret@ are canal-side stalls carrying crafts and souvenirs including of high quality materials
erei in Prenzlauer Berg veronicapohle.de, www.veronicapohle.de. Fashion red-and-green gummi Ampelmännchen. Q Open Sat, Sun and exciting design, com-
o f fe rs i n d i vi d u al l y by 40 international designers, including Kenzo, Temperley 11:00 - 17:00. bining traditional and
made wedding rings London, Moschino, Milly and Catherine Malandrino, in Trödel and Kunstmarkt D-3, Straße des 17. Juni, modern Japan, the Japa-
and designs in plati- a cool-chic boutique with competent and multi-lingual TG, MTiergarten, tel. 26 55 00 96. Most the vendors nese brand Onitsuka Tiger
num, gold and silver, staff along the Ku-damm. QOpen 10:30 - 19:30, Sat at this antique and craft market next to Tiergarten S-Bahn presents the whole variety
as well as selling the 11:00 - 18:30. station are well-organised, making finding that door handle, of its shoe and apparel
work of contemporary French glass vase, Turkish kilim, or amber necklace more collections. Don’t miss the specials celebrating the 60th
young artists. With of a shopping than rummaging experience. Artisans with anniversary of the brand.
everything from minimal to classic, with or without gems, new wares are separate from the antique section, which Alte Schönhauser Str. 20-22, tel. 24 63 21 03,
any shopper can find something to wear, or have an item includes second-hand CDs and clothes. Q Open Sat, Sun www.onitsukatiger.com. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:30,
specially made. 10:00 - 17:00. Sat 11:00-19:00.
Trödelmarkt D-5, John-F-Kennedy Pl., SB, MRathaus
Juwelier Heidenreich, Danziger Str. 17, PB, tel. Schöneberg, tel. 03322-24 67 23. Less touristy than the
44 04 22 70, U-Bahn Eberswalder Str. Open Tue-Fri Straße des 17. Juni market, this fleamarket offers better deals, of Ampelmännchen figures make for more pedestrian
11:00-19:00, Sat 11:00-14:00, closed Sun, Mon. especially when vendors are wrapping up for the day. Q Open memories of Berlin. Other tiny beings that don’t take up
Sat, Sun 08:00 - 16:00. much luggage space are the straw and wood figurines of
Trödelmarkt J-4, Boxhagener Platz, FH, MFrankfurter the Erzgebirge that are sold in many tourist gift shops.
Hugo BOSS F-3, Friedrichstr. 165, MI, MFranzösische Str, Tor. The fleamarket on the Boxi may be the funkiest place Most of the ornaments and nutcrackers are meant for
tel. 20 61 38 90, www.bossshops.com. This German designer to trawl though junk including everything from 1970s tape display at Christmas.
makes shopping for clothes look as easy as picking something out recorders to Polish art posters and second-hand clothing. Erzgebirgskunst Petzoldt G-2/3, Sophienstr. 9, MI,
from a German’s super-organised closet. Everything here is more There are plenty of cafés in the area to combine your treasure MWeinmeisterstr., tel. 282 67 54. Traditional wooden
tailored than the Hugo Boss clothes found in department stores, hunt with breakfast. Q Open Sun 10:00 - 18:00. toys and decorative things from the Erzgebirge region. QOpen
and hand-tailoring is necessary for the “Selection” line. The two MO-A J-4, Oderstrasse 16, FH, MSamariter Str., tel. 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun.
Münz Chirurgie F-2/3, Oranienburger Str. 54/56
other men’s lines are the sporty Orange Collection and the Black
label. A separate hand-tailored luxury label is Baldessarini. You’re
27 57 13 33, www.mo-a.de. Monika Alschweig’s atelier
is where to pick up the woman of leisure’s must-haves: silk Souvenirs & Gifts (Tacheles), MI, MOranienburger Tor, tel. 336 75 69,
in time for summer sales and first dibs on the autumn/winter col- kimonos, linen Thai fishing pants, and dresses of comfortable You don’t have to walk far down Unter den Linden from w w w.muenzchirurgie.de. Ar tist Tom Petzold makes
lection that arrives in mid-July. Women have a half-floor of Boss elegance. Her pompadour bags in pastels or Asian-inspired Brandenburger Tor to find souvenir shops left and beautiful pendants from normal coins from across the
Woman items, much of which are monotone, but some blouses red and black are featured at the luxurious Hotel Adlon’s shop. (mostly) right. Scores of coffee table books document world by removing the unneccessar y bits with an ex-
and dresses have floral and woodgrain prints reminiscent of the Q Tue, Wed, Fri 14:00-19:00, Sat 11:00-14:00. the changing face of Berlin and its most scarred and tremely fine saw - leaving just the rim and the picture
1960s. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. A Nike Town D-4, Tauentzienstr. 66, CB, MWittenbergpl., wounded moments in history. The irrepressible cheer intact. From €50.
Hut up! F-3, Oranienburger Str. 36, MI (Heckmannhöfe), tel. 250 70. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00.
MOranienburger Str., tel. 44 35 75 25, www.hutup.de. Closed Sun.
Merino wool felt is the muse here, and it weaves its way into chiffon, Skoda G-2/3, Alte Schönhauser Str. 35, MI, MWein-
silks, organza, muslin and cotton creations for women and children. meister Str., tel. 280 72 11, www.claudiaskoda.com.
Not one object is stitched or sewn in this intricate craftwork, Claudia Skoda is the German designer who convinces even
which is handmade in Berlin. From sheer, light as a feather shirts the thrifty that sometimes a dress is worth €450. Her form-
and skirts to thick house slippers and sweaters, felt proves itself fitting knit tops and dresses shimmer with acetate this
a luxurious material in these wonderfully creative designs. The season. Women with long torsos are especially in luck here.
summer sale begins in August; prepare to spend around €200 Men can choose from sweaters. QOpen 12:00 - 20:00, Sat
for a single piece, or just about €20 for a whimsical and colorful 12:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun.
object from the home collection that includes cell phone holders, Tausche Taschen H-1, Raumerstr. 8, MEberswalder
egg warmers and vases. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Sun. Str., tel. 40 30 17 70, info@tausche.de, www.tausche.
de. Different everyday! tausche Taschen stands for bags
with exchangeable flaps in more than 100 different designs.
Two flaps are included in the price of one bag. Various insets
equip your bag to suit any occasion. Q Mon-Fri 11:00-20:00,
Sat 11:00-18:00

Jewellery
Askania G-3, Rosenthaler Str. 40/41, MHackescher
Markt, www.askania-watches.com. Berlin is a special city,
shoe store
and now the buzzing metropolis has its old watchfactory back,
once again producing mechanical masterpieces in line with
a tradition dating back more than a hundred years. Discover
STAR BABY / SHABBIES / AMSTERDAM
the excitement of mechanical watches made in Berlin at
Askania’s impressive store in the Hackesche Höfe courtyards.
QOpen 12:00 - 20:00.
SANITA / BETTY BLUE AND MANY MORE.
Bulgari C-4, Fasanenstr. 70, CB, MUhlandstr., tel. 885 Near the metro station Eberswalder Strasse.
79 20. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun.
Cartier C-4, Fasanenstr. 28, MUhlandstr., tel. 886 70 Danziger Strasse 15 / 10435 Berlin / www.cijada.de / info@cijada.de
60. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. TEL: + 49(0)3048491176 / FAX: + 49(0)3048491179
Christ Juweliere F-3, Friedrichstr. 176-179, MI, MFran- OPENING HOURS: Tue-Fri: 11–19 Uhr / Sat: 11–18 Uhr
zösische Str., tel. 204 10 49. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat
10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. 17 other outlets in town.

Berlin In Your Pocket berlin.inyourpocket.com berlin.inyourpocket.com December 2009 - January 2010


74 DIRECTORY DIRECTORY 75

Accountants Language schools


Ernst & Young Französische Str. 48, tel. (+49)(0)30 Berlitz Mitte F-3, Friedrichstr. 95, MI, MFriedrich-
25 47 10, www.ey.com.
KPMG Klingelhöferstraße 18, tel. (+49)(0)30 206 80,
str., tel. (+49)(0)30 204 21 24, www.berlitz.de/de/
berlin_mitte.
Full directory:
www.kpmg.de. Inlingua F-2, Kronenstr. 55-58, MLeipziger Str., tel. berlin.inyourpocket.com
Nörr Stiefenhofer Lutz Charlottenstr. 57, tel. (+49) (+49)(0)30 88 47 11 90, www.inlingua.de.
(0)30 20 94 20 00, www.noerr.de.
PricewaterhouseCoopers Leise-Meitner-Str. 1, tel.
(+49)(0)30 263 60, www.pwc.com. Money
The only good way to get euros in Germany is to stick your
ARRIVA Relocation Sybelstr. 43, tel. 32 77 43 11,
Airlines debit card (with a 4-digit PIN code) into an ATM (bank-
omat in German). Your bank charges you a small transfer www.arriva.de.
Air Berlin, www.airberlin.com. fee (usually €1-2) and calculates the exchange rate using Enter Berlin Hohenzollerndamm 55, tel. 88 92 02 40,
Air France, tel. 0180-583 08 30, www.airfrance.com. the bank’s middle rate, which is usually better than the www.enter-berlin.com.
Austrian, tel. 0180-300 05 20, www.aua.com. rate that you get at the exchange offices or banks. Credit First Relocating Kissinger Str. 67, tel. 826 14 51,
British Airways, tel. 01805-26 65 22, www.britis- cards can also be used in many ATMs, but may charge www.first-relocating.de.
hairways.com. high commissions. When changing cash, shop around if you
CSA, tel. 0180 392 00 35, www.csa.cz.
Deutsche BA, www.flydba.com.
plan to change a large amount - commissions and rates
differ. Traveller’s Cheques are outdated and practically Real Estate
Easyjet, www.easyjet.com. superfluous in Europe, but many banks and exchange of- BPC Berlin Property Consultants, tel. 411 98
EL AL, tel. 03-971 61 11, www.elal.co.il. fices still accept them. 39 00, email: info@bpc-berlin.com, www.bpc-berlin.
Finnair, tel. 01803-34 66 24, www.finnair.com. com.
Germania Express, www.gexx.de. American Express D-4, Bayreuther Str. 37, CB, MWit-
Germanwings, www.germanwings.com. tenbergplatz, tel. 21 47 62 92. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00,
KLM, tel. 41 01 38 44, www.klm.com. Sat 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Also at Friedrichstraße 172. Telephone
LOT, tel. 01803-300 03 36, www.lot.com. Berlin’s telephone code is 030. When phoning between Ger-
Lufthansa Kaiserdamm 109, tel. 322 10 51, www. Reisebank C-4, Zoo Bahnhof, tel. 881 71 17, www. man cities, the full city code including the zero must be used.
lhcc.de. reisebank.de. QOpen 07:30 - 22:00. Also at Ostbahnhof. Calls to mobiles (Handys in German) require the initial zero.
SAS, tel. 410 13 70, www.sas.se. To call abroad, dial 00 followed by the international country
Swiss , tel. 41 01 27 64/01803-00 03 37, www.
swiss.com. Moving to Berlin code and the local number. To call Germany from abroad,
dial the international access code followed by the German
Volare, www.volareweb.com. The following companies can help with every aspect of relo- country code (49), and the city code (Berlin 030, Frankfurt
Europcar G-3, Karl-Liebknecht-Str. 19-21, MI, tel. 240 cation, including moval, permits, acommodation, language 069, Munich 089) or mobile number, dropping the initial zero.
79 00, www.europcar.de. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00, Sat
Buses 08:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun.
courses and getting to know the local community. Most public telephones are card-operated.

Berlin Linien Bus Mannheimer Str. 33/34, CB, MHei- Hertz C-4, Budapester Str. 39, tel. 261 10 53, www.

8&&,&/%-07&3
delberger Pl., tel. 861 93 31, www.berlinlinienbus.de. hertz.de. QOpen 07:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 16:00, Sun
Buses to national and international destinations. Munich 09:00 - 13:00.
€45, Hamburg €25, Frankfurt €44, Prague €38, Amsterdam
€53, Paris €76.
Deutsche Touring (Eurolines) Masurenallee 4, Doctors
tel. 069 79 03 50, www.deutsche-touring.com. One Dipl.-Med. Christa Bottin Prenzlauer Allee 189,
of the founding members of the Eurolines bus network, MEberswalder Str., tel. 442 38 23.
DT has dozens of nicely priced international destina- Dr. Alexandra Heiser Kurfürstendamm 139, MAde- The best way to rent a car in Berlin:
tions. Prague €35. Q Kaiserdamm 30: 09:00 - 18:00, nauerpl., tel. 89 54 07 50. General medicine & homeopathy.
Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Dr. Karin Wrobel Schönhauser Allee 126 A, MSchön-
ZOB (Zentraler Omnibusbahnhof am Funkturm) hauser Allee, tel. 448 57 67.
Masurenallee 4-6, MKaiserdamm, tel. 301 03 80 Dr. med. Michael Oppel Der ff linger str. 14,
/302 53 61, www.zob-berlin.de. Berlin’s central bus MKurfürstenstr., tel. 44 72 81 28, fax 44 72 81 29,
station is not very central, at the western end of the oppel@integrative-medizin.com, w w w.integrative-
city. For tickets, contact the ZOB travel agency, www. medizin.com.
zob-reisebuero.de.
Hospitals
Business connections Benjamin Franklin Clinical Centre Klingsorstr.,
American Chamber of Commerce Charlottenstr. 42, MRathaus Steglitz, tel. 84 45 30 15, www.medizin.
tel. (+49)(0)30 28 87 89 21, www.amcham.de. fu-berlin.de.
Deutsche Industrie-und Handelskammer (Cham- Campus Charité Mitte Clinical Centre F-2, Luisen-
ber of Commerce) Breite Str. 29, tel. (+49)(0)30 str. 66, MZinnowitzer Str., tel. 450 53 10 00, www.
20308-0, www.dihk.de. charite.de.
Campus Virchow Clinical Centre Augustenburger
Car rental Pl. 1, MAmrumer Str., tel. 450 55 20 00, w w w.
charite.de.
Avis C-4, Budapester Str. 43, tel. 230 93 70, www.avis. German Heart Centre Berlin Augustenburger Pl. 1,
de. Q Open 24hrs. MAmrumer Str., tel. 45 93 10 00, www.dhzb.de. www.starcar.de rent-a-car
Budget Tegel Airport, tel. 41 01 33 64, www.budget. Charité Universitätsklinikum F-3, Schumannstr. 20-
de. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00, Sat 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 08:00 21, MOranienburger Tor, tel. 45 050, www.charite.de.
- 23:00. Also at Budapester Str. 24. For Schönefeld Airport Waldfriede Hospital Argentinische Allee 40, MK- Berlin - Neukölln Tel: 030 / 68 29 68 0 Berlin - Tiergarten Tel: 030 / 25 75 77 0
call the above number. rumme Lanke, tel. 81 81 02 85, www.waldfriede.de.

Berlin In Your Pocket berlin.inyourpocket.com berlin.inyourpocket.com December 2009 - January 2010


76 STREET REGISTER A B C

nnw

du
Adam-von-

-Olb

Sa
Jungfernheide

fer
eg

atw
richt-Damm

Dohn
in k
le r

ag
Ackerstr. FG 2 Engeldamm H4 Kaiserin-Augusta-Allee BC 2 Neue Blumenstr. H3 Skalitzer Str. G 4-I 4

es t e
Da
Straße 70
Adalbertstr. H4 Englische Str. C3 Kantstr. BC 4 Neue Grünstr. F4 Solinger Str. CD 3 Kol. Friedrichsweg

mm

ll
Admiralstr. GH 5 Entlastungsstr. E3 Kapelleufer EF 3 Neuenburgerstr. FG 4 Solmsstr. F5 A 111 g
Agricolastr. C3 Erkelenzdamm F4 Karl-Liebknecht-Str. G3 Niebuhrstr. BC 4 Soorstr. A 3/4 1 tw
e Hüttigpfad

1
Heckerdam va ttig
Albrechtstr. F3 Ernst-Reuter-Platz C3 Karl-Marx-Allee G-I 3 Niederkirchnerstr. F4 Sophie-Charlotten-Str. A3 Nordufer

That s Pri
m pfa
Alexanderplatz G3 Esmarchstr. H2 Karlsruher Str. A4 Niederwallstr. F3 Sophienstr. G 2/3 Paul-Hertz- Frie d

er
dric
Alexanderstr. G3 Fasanenallee D 3/4 Kastanienallee G2 Nikol.-Groß-Weg A2 Spandauer Damm AB 3 Heckerdam h-O
Alexanderufer F 2/3 Fasanenstr. C 4/5 Keibelstr. GH 3 Nollendorfstr. DE 5 Spandauer Str. G3
m Siedlung lbric
ht-D
Heckerdamm
Alexandrinenstr. F4 Fehmarner Str. D1 Keplerstr. B2 Nordhauser Str. B3 Spichernstr. C5 am

Halemweg
Go m
Almstadtstr. G 2/3 Fehrbelliner Str. G2 Kieler Str. E2 Nostitzstr. F5 Sredzkistr. H2 e be l

berg-Str.
Lichten-
Bernh.-
str. Toeplerstr.

Beussel
Reichweind
Alte Jakobstr. F4 Feldzeugmeisterstr. D2 Kl. Hamburger Str. F2 Novalisstr. F2 Stallschreiberstr. G4 AS

eg
Kol. Juliusruh Seestr.
Alte Schönhauser Str. G2 Fischerinsel G3 Kleiststr. DE 4 Nürnberger Str. D4 Stauffenbergstr. E4

Grenzw
Alt-Lietzow B3 Flensburger Str. D3 Klingelhöferstr. D4 Oberbaumstr. I4 Steinplatz C4 Jakob-Kaiser-Platz AS Westh

str.
U enweg
Alt-Moabit C 3-E 3 Flotowstr. D3 Kloppstockstr. D3 Oberberger Str. G 1/2 Storkower Str. I 1/2 U Margerit Beusselst.

amm
Halemweg
Altonaer Str. D3 Fr.-Künstler-Str. G4 Knaackstr. H2 Olivaer Platz B4 Stralauer Allee IJ 4
Am Friedrichshain H2 Franz-Klühs-Str. F4 Knesebeckstr. C4 Oranienburger Str. FG 2/3 Stralauer Platz H4 Heilmannring
A 100
Am Hauptbahnhof H4 Französische Str. F3 Kniprodestr. I2 Oranienplatz F4 Stralauer Str. G3 S iem
Am Karlsbad F4 Fraunhoferstr. C3 Kochstr. F4 Oranienstr. FG 4 Straßburger Str. G2 ensdamm

Lise-Meitner

Beusselstr.
Weg ß-
Am Kupfergraben F3 Friedensstr. H 2/3 Kollwitzplatz H2 Otto-Braun-Str. GH 3 Straße der Pariser Kommune

Gro
Am Spreebord B3 Friedrichstr. F 3/4 Kollwitzstr. GH 2 Otto-Suhr-Allee BC 3 I 3/4
Dreieck Am Sie

Nikol.-
f
An der Urania D4 Fritschestr. A 3/4 Kommandantenstr. G4 Pappelallee GH 1 Straße des 17. Juni C 3-E 3
Charlottenburg Bahnhorn-

Str.
Anhalter Str. F4 Fuggerstr. DE 4 Königin-Elisabeth-Str. A 3/4 Pariser Platz F3 Strausberger Str. H3 2 Jungfernheide
ohrn-
Str. Jungfe tr. 2

-Str.
am
m
U D heide gens
Annenstr. GH 4 Gartenstr. F 1/2 Konstanzer Str. B 4/5 Pariser Str. C5 Strelitzer Str. F2 Sickin Moa

Berlichingenstr.
nd Max-
Ansbacher Str. D 4/5 Gaußstr. B2 Köpenicker Str. HI 4 Passauer Str. D4 Stresemannstr F4 N on n e e Wittstocker

Wiebestr.
Spre

Ufnaustr.
Str.

Goslare
r.

Waldstr.
st

Emdener
Jungfernheide S Lambert

Lise-Meitner-Str.
Anton-Saefkow-Str. I2 Geisbergstr. C5 Koppenplatz G2 Pasteurstr. HI 2 Südstern G5

Rostocker
Neues
r.

Tegeler
Arndtstr. F5 Gendarmenmarkt F3 Kottbusser Damm H5 Paul-Lincke-Ufer H5 Swinemünder Str. FG 1/2 Olbers
str. Gaußst Hut

Str.
r Ufer
Aschaffenburger Str. D5 Georgenkirchstr. H 2/3 Kottbusser Str. H5 Perleberger Str. DE 2 Taubenstr. F3 briciusstr tens

Str.
. tr. Waldens
Schw er

Fa
lstr.
Auerstr. I3 Georgenstr. F3 Krausenstr. F4 Pestalozzistr. BC 4 Tauentzienstr. D4

Ufer
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tr.

estr.
Brah We Huttens

e
Augsburger Str. CD 4 Gertraudenstr. G3 Krausnickstr. G3 Petersburger Str. I3 Tegeler Weg B 2/3

Weg

rs
Hersch
estr. g tr.

Keple
Auguststr. FG 2 Geschw.-Scholl-Str. F3 Kreuzbergstr. F5 Pfalzburger Str. C 4/5 Tempelherrenstr. G5

Str.

Wieb
Klare

lin-
bachstn-

iner
Osnab Tu

elstr.
Axel-Springer-Str. F4 Giesebrechtstr. B4 Kronenstr. F3 Pflugstr. F2 Templiner Str. G2 Erasm

Reuch
ücker

Str.
r.

tr.
Schloß- U Mierendorffplatz

Kamm
B.-Lichtenberg-Str. HI 2 Gipsstr. G2 Krüllstr. I5 Pintschstr. I3 Thaerstr. IJ 3 Str. str. us-

nge str.

ys
garten Mierendorff- Kaiserin- Augusta- Allee

Tegele Bo n h o e

Beuss

Gotzkowsk
Wernigeroder
Baerwaldstr. G5 Gitschiner Str. F4 Krumme Str. B3 Planckstr. F3 Thaters Privatweg B1 Mind Zwinglistr.

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ener platz Goslarer

Ilsenburger
Fürstenbrunner

Klaustaler
ier Tauroggen

r-

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Barbarossastr. D5 Glinkastr. F3 Kurfürstendamm A 5-C 4 Platz der Vereinten Nationen Tieckstr. F2

Neues
Str.

Kuchastr. 4 Morsestr.
Nordhauser Str. Platz

.
Pulsstr.

str
Heubnerweg
Barnimstr. H 2/3 Gneisenaustr. FG 5 Kurfürstenstr. DE 4 H3 Tiergartenstr. DE 4

r W

str.chlesi
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rff

Str.
Str.
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St
Goslare
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Bartningallee D3 Goethestr. BC 4 Kurstr. F3 Platz vor dem Neuen Tor F 2 Tile-Wardenberg-Str. C3

rski-
Sömmeringstr.
Sophie-Ch

Ufer

r. 2
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Pa

en

S
Quedlinburger Str.

Jagowstr.
Baruther Str. F5 Görlitzer Str. HI 4/5 L.-Hermann-Str. HI 2 Pohlstr. E4 Torstr. FG 2 -
Heisenberg

4
Carnot-

scalst
fer str.
Bayerische Str. B 4/5 Görlitzer Ufer I5 Landsberger Allee H 2-I 2 Potsdamer Platz E4 Tucholsky-Str. F3 str.

Darwinstr.
M
f
u fer

r Ufer
r-
Bayerischer Platz D5 Gormannstr. G2 Langenbeckstr. I2 Potsdamer Str. E 4/5 Turmstr. CD 2 A 100 Schloß Halltre.

r.
s str. Lev

arlot
holtz

Weg
Bebelplatz F3 Grainauer Str. C5 Lausitzer Str. H 4/5 Prager Str. C5 Uhlandstr. C 4/5 Charlottenburg etz
Charlottenbur
ger Am Spreebord Helm ow

ten-Str.
Behrenstr. F3 Greifswalder Str. HI 1/2 Legiendamm H4 Prenzlauer Allee H 1/2 Unter den Linden F3 Ag s tr

str.
Ufe S p r ee rico

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str
Belforter Str. GH 2 Grolmannstr. C4 Leibnizstr. B 3/4 Prinzenstr. F4 Unterbaumstr. F3 AS Eosanders r

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str
tr.

Wintersteinstr.

r.
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tgeweg
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nstr.

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Bergmannstr. FG 5 Großbeerenstr. F5 Leipziger Platz F4 Pückler Str. H4 Urbanstr. GH 5 Spandauer

eyer-

S nge
Arcostr.
Wa

Do
istr.

go
nkli
Span andauer Damm Brauhofstr.

Röntge
Bernauer Str. FG 1/2 Große Hamburger Str. G 2/3 Leipziger Str. FG 4 Puschkinallee IJ 5 Veteranenstr. G2

li
Damm Wu rd

Ja
Sp

So
Nithackstr.
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Lohm
daue

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Ott

lv a
Klausener

Sa

Fra
Berolinastr. H3 Großer Stern Siegessäule D 3 Lennéstr. E4 Quedlinburger Str. B3 Virchowstr. I 2/3 r Damm Ei n z u f e r

K aise
Akazi o- we . rg
Alt- Lietzow

l
Westend

Ga
3 enall Platz N 3

Wilmersdorfer
Bertolt-Brecht-Platz F3 Großgörschenstr. E5 Leuschnerdamm H4 R.-Schwarz-Str. I2 Voßstr. F4 ee Guericke- st e ber
S Gardes-du- e u f ertstr. Gierkepl. Suh str. inu
fer str.

tr.

h-
r

r- Friedrich- Str
Bethaniendamm H4 Gruner Str. G3 Lewishamstr. B4 Raabestr. H2 W.-Kube-Str. I2 Ahorn- Corps -St r. Neue str. - Alle

Losc

str.lrausc
ers
Crusiu Schustehrus- Gue

str.
platz

rt
Beusselstr. C2 Grunewaldstr. D5 Lietzenburgerstr. CD 4 Rankestr. C4 W.-Stolze-Str. I3 str. s- str. Christ- e

Sieg Hof
Christ- rick

Wa
Behaim- str. Gut

Cau
hmi r.
str. est

Schloßstr.
Bismarckstr. BC 3/4 Günzelstr. CD 5 Lietzenseeufer B4 Rathausstr. G3 Wadzeckstr. GH 3 enb

Koh
Königin-Elisabeth

Danckelmanns
tr.
U Richard-Wagner- r.

e-
e

Nehringstr.

Gierkezeile

Str.
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str.rg-

allee

str.
Charlotte
Soors
Fra

Abb
Bleibtreustr. C4 Gutenbergstr. C3 Lindenstr. FG 4 Rathenower Str. DE 2 Waldemarstr. H4 Seeling- str. Haubach-

tr.
AS Platz unh

Richard-Wa g n

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Sa i nu
str. ofe

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Blücherstr. FG 5 H.-Jadamowitz-Str. I3 Linienstr. FG 2 Regensburger Str. D5 Wallnerstr. H3 Ott

Ahorn
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lisc
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fer

lzu
Kaiser- str. o-

ste
Thra solt

Ma
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Bodestr. F3 H.-Kapelle-Str. I2 Lobeckstr. F4 Reichenberger Str. G 4-I 5 Wallstr. FG 4

Eng
Suh fer

Fritschestr.
damm

Str.

Krumme Str.
nstr.
Borsigstr. F2 Habersaathstr. EF 2 Lohmühlenstr. I5 Reichpietschufer E4 Warschauer Platz I4 Haeselerstr. r- Tiergarten

Leibniz-
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Zille- Allee

tr.
tr. str. Zillestr. Zillestr.
Bötzowstr. HI 2 Hallesches Ufer F4 Lottumstr. G2 Reichstagufer F3 Warschauer Str. I 3/4 Knobelsdorffs Ernst-

str.
Juni
Kno belsdorffstr. Knobelsdorffstr. Reuter- Straße des 17.

er-Str.
Bouchéstr. I5 Händelallee D3 Ludwigkirchstr. C 4/5 Reinhardtstr. F3 Washingtonstr. E3
Horstweg Dt. Oper

-Str.

.
Platz

r n str
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Ho
Brandenburger Tor F3 Hannoversche Str. F2 Luisenstr. F 2/3 Ritterstr. G4 Wassertorplatz F4 rst Sophie-Charlotte-
U Bismarckstr.
weg Bismarckstr. üller-

Soors

M
Brandenburgische Str. BC Hansaufer D3 Lützowufer DE 4 Rosa-Luxemburg-Platz G2 Wassertorstr. F4 Platz U Ernst-Reuter- Bre

str.
U Str. slau-
Bismarckstr.

Salde
Platz

str.
4/5 Hanseatenweg D3 M.-Beer-Str. G 2/3 Rosa-Luxemburg-Str. G 2/3 Waterloo Ufer F5
Fredericiastr.
U CHARLOTTENBURG Schillerstr.

tr.
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nen
Kaiser- Friedrich-

.
Breite Str. G3 Hans-Otto-Str. HI 2 M.-Sommer-Str. I2 Rosenstr. G3 Wedekindstr. I3

nsstr
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Fasa
Witzleben-
Kaiserdamm

Windsch
Breitscheidplatz C4 Hardenbergplatz C4 Magazinstr. H3 Rosenthaler Str. G 2/3 Weidenweg I3

zstr.
str.

Schlüterstr.
Schiller-

Leibnizstr.

Ha
platz

Jebe
Her

Str.
str.
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SFB (Sender Kaiserdamm

Knesebeckstr.
Brückenstr. H 3/4 Hardenbergstr. C4 Mahlerstr. I1 Rückerstr. G2 Weimarer Str. B4 str. tzall

rde
Suare
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fer Str.

n
Goethestr. Stein- rgs

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Soorstr.
Brunnenstr. FG 1/2 Hauptstr. DE 4/5 Marburger Str. D4 Saarbrücker Str. G2 Weinstr. H 2/3 tr.

Weimarer
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Pestalozzistr.
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lma
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Uhlandstr.
Li

Fasanenstr.
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mm
Bülowstr. E 4/5 Heidelberger Str. I5 Marchstr. C3 Savignyplatz C4 Werderstr. F3 S Zoolog

Li

nst
llee Amtsgerichts- Kantstr.
Bundesallee C 4/6 Heidestr. E2 Mariannenplatz H4 Schaperstr. CD 4 Werkstättenweg A5 Neue Kantstr. U Kantstr.
platz

r.
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Trenburgstr. tr.
platz

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Wind
U Zoolog

K.-F
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Wilmersd
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Burgstr. G3 Heinrichplatz H4 Marienstr. F3 Scheidemannstr. EF 3 Wielandstr. C4 nha

dele
ICC (Int. platz Breitsche

isch
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Bleibtreustr.
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str
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Leibnizstr.
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Su

str.

orfer St
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lma
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Schlüterstr.
Mommsenstr.

Wielandstr.
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st r. m Gedäc
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Chodowickistr. H2 Herschelstr. B2 Mauerstr. F 3/4 Schleswiger Ufer D3 Wilmersdorfer Str. B 3/4 Dern burgstr. Rönn e tr.
rsten

Bundesallee
a inuss Mommsenstr. kirc

r.
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Choriner Str. G2 Hertzallee C4 Maybachufer H5 Schloßplatz F3 Winsstr. H2 Gerv

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Droysenstr.

r.

str.
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es

Fasanenstr.
Christburger Str. H2 Hiroshimastr. E4 Mehringdamm F5 Schloßstr. B3 Winterfeldtplatz D5 Str.
Me

Sybelstr.

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Christinenstr. G2 Hirtenstr. G3 Mehringplatz F4 Schlüterstr. C4 Winterfeldtstr. DE 5 nn

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Uhland-
West- lbro Dam Eis

r.
Colmarer Str. H2 Hohenstaufenstr. D5 Meierottostr. C 4/5 Schmidtstr. GH 4 Witzlebenplatz A4 Hei

str.
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Karlsruher Str.

tr.
Strleben

Ra
kreuz S asc Adenauerplatz e nd

Friedrich-Str.
Danckelmannstr. A3 Hohenzollerndamm BC 5 Meinekestr. C4 Schmollerplatz I5 Witzlebenstr. AB 4 hke
str. Ku rfürst . er

Katharinastr.
U .

G.-Wilhelm-Str.
Str
Danziger Str. G 1-I 2 Hohenzollernplatz C5 Melchiorstr. H4 Schöneberger Str. F4 Wöhlertstr. F2
Lützen-
Olivaer Lietzenburger Augsb
Hale
aper- str.
Dennewitzplatz E5 Holsteiner Ufer D3 Messe A4 Schöneberger Ufer E4 Wörther Str. GH 2
ndam
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Bundesallee
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Hale

illes-Str.

Emser Str.
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er str.

Str.
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Diedenhofer Str. H2 Holzmarktstr. H 4/5 Metzer Str. GH 2 Schönhauser Allee G 1/2 Wullenweberstr. C3
Kurfü

Brandenb

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nse

kirch-

r Str
r.
est

Dietrich-Bonhoeffer-Str. H 2 Hufelandstr. H2 Mittelstr. F3 Schönleinstr. H5 Württembergische Str. C 4/5 Ludwigstr.

St

Str.
Bornstedte

Cicerostr.

Str.

.
Pfalzburger
Nestorstr.

Sächsisc
Joachim-

str
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est

Kronprin r S
r.

Dircksenstr. G3 Ilsenburger Str. B 2/3 Mittenwalder Str. G5 Schröderstr. F2 Xantener Str. B4

eie
Uhlandstr.

ern

Grainauer Str.
Fasanenstr.
Albrecht- P Ach
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Eisenzahn- born
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r.

we dammzen-

ro
tanze
Düsseld
tr.
Döberitzer Str. E2 Immanuelkirchstr. H2 Möckernstr. F 4/5 Schumannstr. F3 Yorckstr. EF 5 nd