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To cite this article: S. F. Ng , C. L. Hui , T. Y. Lo & S. H. Chan (2001) Fabric Loss during
Spreading: A Comparative Study of the Actual Loss in Manufacturing Men's Shirts, Journal of the
Textile Institute, 92:3, 269-279, DOI: 10.1080/00405000108659576
Article views: 77
A theoretical model has been developed for describing the spreading process in a cutting
room. Verification work Tor this model is described in this study, the aim of which was to
determine whether the model could accurately calculate the total spreading losses in a real
situation. The results presented in this paper address the difference in total fahric loss during
spreading that was obtained hetween actual performance and theoretical calculation.
Through a further investigation, the difference is highly negatively correlated with the
number of completed plies lying on the cutting table, and there is no treatment of the number
of turns in the theoretical model when Vo is equal to zero. Ultimately, the equation for
calculating the total fabric loss by the theoretical model is refined to improve its precision.
The result of this refinement is better than the original theoretical performance.
1. INTRODUCTION
Garment production can roughly be broken down into three major operations, which are
cutting, sewing, and pressing {Solinger, 1988). Before performing the sewing and finishing
operations, the main role of the cutting process is to transform fabric rolls into garment
panels, and the cut panels are usually sorted by different sizes and colours for the pre-
paration of subsequent sewing operations. In garment-manufacturing, material utilisation
is an important issue in controlling the production costs. To control the material utilisation
and wastage, fabric losses due to cutting are particularly important, since this process has
a great impact on actual fabric consumption.
As illustrated in Fig. 1, when we examine the fabric loss in an ordinary cutting process,
two main sources of fabric loss exist. The first is called marking toss or marker fallout,
which occurs because of the gaps and other non-usable areas at places between the garment
panels of a marker. The amount of marking loss is determined by comparing the total area
of the marker with the perimeter area of the pattern pieces; the area not used by garment
pieces is the wastage (Ruth and Kunz, 1990). The second source is generally termed the
spreading losses. Tyler (1991) stated that spreading losses were those fabric losses that
exist outside the marker. During the spreading process, end loss, width loss, splicing loss,
splicing allowance, and remnant loss are all factors contributing to spreading losses.
Many previous studies (Cole and Sanbom, \995a.b\ Kallman, 1979; Kush, 1990;
Magowan. 1982; Milokhina tVfl/., 1986; Ng e/«/., 1990; Roberts, 1981; Wing, 1995) have
been conducted with the aim of improving material utilisation. However, most of them
focus mainly on practical guidelines or procedures in fabric-saving. In fact, there is a lack
of systematic approach and fundamental analysis to evaluate fabric loss during spreading.
Although the work of Milokhina et al. (1986) has allowed a regression model to be
developed to compute fabric loss along tbe length of the overlays, its approach is not
End Loss
^; Remnont Loss
Spreoding Losses! width Loss
^ ^ ^ Splicing Ailowonce
Fabric Loss in Cutting g ^ splice LOSS
Marldng Loss
2. N O M E N C L A T U R E
The following notation is used in the development of a model in order to calculate the
fabric toss during spreading.
tn Marker length
w Marker width
n Number of splicing intervals
I Number of fabric roll, ranging from 1 to a positive integer
} Number of splicing interval, ranging from I to a positive integer
Sn Length of the nth splicing interval
7} Length of marker from the left-hand to the right-hand end of the jth
splicing interval
7)' Length of marker from the right-hand to the left-hand end of the /th
splicing interval
Li Length of the /th fabric roll
W Width of the fabric roll
h Length of overlap during spreading
p, Number of complete plies laid by the /th fabric roll
Ri Length of remnant laid by the /th fabric roll
V, Distance from the end of the marker to the cut edge laid by the /th
fabric roil
Xi Cut-off length of the /th fabric roll
g Length of allowance made for the fabric in turn between one ply and the next ply
A^, Total number of turns from the first fabric roll lo the /th fabric roll
Xk Proportion of the fabric loss in the ^th splicing interval
Bi Length of 'internal' loss for each lay of the /th fabric roll
Ai Area of fabric loss in the /th roll
In the theoretical model for calculating total fabric loss during spreading (Ng et al., 1998), it
is assumed that the spreading process is handled in a controlled manner and that there are no
flaws in the fabric being spread. Since the total area of fabric isA=WLt, the proportion of
waste area over all rolls is expressed by Equation (1):
4.3 Methods for Measuring Various Types of Fabric Loss during Spreading
in an Industrial Environment
4.3.1 Scope
The fabric loss during spreading consists of marking loss, width loss, end loss, splicing
allowance, splicing loss, and remnant loss. Different methods were designed to measure
these types of fabric loss in an industrial environment. Details of each measuring method
are given below.
the marker efficiency of each cutting lay that is available in the computerised marking
system of the factory. The marking loss is obtained by multiplication of the area of the
marker, the value of the marker efficiency, and the number of plies spread on a cutting
table. It is expressed in terms of the marker-fallout area.
Length of the cutting lay (cm) = Total area of width loss (cm^)
Number of complete
pliss laid by a single
Width Loss
Table I
Comparison of Actual Fabrie Loss during Spreading and Theoretical Calculation by Using Equation (1)
Sample Percenlage of Tolal Fabric Loss Percentage of Total Fabric Loss Difference
during Spreading Collected during Spreading Computed (A)-(B) {=^D)
from the Factory (A) by Equation {1) (B)
1 14.05% 14.12% -0.07%
2 6.17% 2.65% 3.52%
3 9.79% SJ51% 4.27%
4 1L62% 7.99% 3.63%
5 13.74% 9.68% 4.06%
6 16.65% 13.47% 3.18%
7 12.82% 9.02% 3.80%
8 11.89% 10.26% 1.63%
9 13.80% 9.44% 4.36%
10 11.12% 7.92% 3.20%
u 13.10% 7.80% 5.30%
12 14.17% 4.68% 9.49%
13 15.76% 13.03% 2.73%
14 14.87% 5.05% 9.82%
15 13.34% 7.43% 5.91%
16 14.75% 8.64% 6.11%
17 14.58% 12.56% 2.02%
18 12.38% 7.84% 4.54%
19 12.73% 12.77% -0.04%
20 12.72% 12.16% 0.56%
21 U.49% 8.64% 2.85%
22 11.86% 3.78% 8.08%
23 13.00% 10.23% 2.77%
24 11.13% 10.56% 0.57%
25 13.61% 14.06% -0.45%
26 14.22% 9.74% 4.48%
27 12.94% 10.20% 2.74%
28 10.65% 9.89% 0.76%
29 14.09% 8.33% 5.76%
30 11.67% 9.47% 2.20%
that the difference between these two sets of data was very close to zero. We believe that,
if a difference between actual measurement and theoretical calculation exists, such a
difference will not be caused by the measurement error.
Table 11
Summary of Correlation Results
w W m P P D
w 1
W 0.996 1
0.045 0.049 1
m -0.273 -0.266 0.289 1
P 0,091 0.081 0.274 -0.777 1
P 0.406 0.424 0.534 -0.007 o.ni 1
^r -0.104 -0.095 0.129 0.063 0.034 -0.201 1
0.328 0.345 0.185 0.687 -0.661 0.244 -0.080 1
«i 0.236 0.278 0.030 -0.311 0.266 -0.101 0.071 0.0671 1
D -0.258 -0-276 -0.197 0.352 -0.431 0.188 -0.285 0.2220 -0.813 1
w
(2)
1=1
Otherwise, if VQ = 0, then
Table m
Comparison of Actual Fabric Loss during Spreading and Tbeoretitat Calculation by Using Kqualion <2)
Sample Percentage of Total Fabric Loss Percentage of Toial Fabric Loss Difference
during Spreading Collected during Spreading Computed (A>-(B)(=AD)
from the Factory (A I by Equation (2) (B>
1 14.05% 15.69% 1.64%
2 16.17% 19.02% 2.85%
3 9.79% 9.28% 0.51%
4 n.62% 13.23% 1.61%
5 13.74% 11.52% 2.22%
6 16.65% 15.35% 1.30%
7 12.82% 11.82% 1.00%
8 n.89% 12.28% 0.39%
9 13.80% 12.46% 1.34%
10 11.12% 9.75% 1,37%
11 13.10% 11.56% 1.54%
12 14.17% 11.95% 2.22%
13 15.76% 15.90% 0.14%
14 14.87% 15.62% 0.75%
15 13.34% 14.06% 0.72%
16 14.75% 14.71% 0.04%
17 14.58% 16.41% 1.83%
IS 12.38% 10.71% L67%
19 12.73% Ll.85% 1.12%
20 12.72% 14.32% 1.60%
21 11.49% 12.90% 1.41%
22 11.86% 9.32% 2.54%
23 13.00% 12.67% 0.33%
24 11.13% 11.34% 0.21%
25 13.61% 15.51% L90%
26 14.22% IL90% 2..12%
27 12.94% 12.62% 0.32%
28 10.65% 1L63% 0.98%
29 14.09% tO.84% 3.25%
30 11.67% 12.94% 1.27%
12.00%
8.00%
600%
4,00%
2,00%
0 00%
1 2 'S'.*' 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14-1fi 1©J7 18 19 20 21 22 23 24.25 26 27 ^ 29 30
•2.00% •
-4.00%
I Equ3t]on|1) - - - • Equation(2)[
Fig. 3 Comparison of the computational performance by using Equations (1) and (2)
6. CONCLUSION
The results of our analysis reveal that there is a difference between the actual performance
and theoretical calculation of the model (Ng et ai, 1998). This difference is highly
negatively correlated with the number of completed plies lying on a cutting table. On the
basis of the analysis of the theoretical model, we identify that Vo is closely associated with
the number of completed plies of a cutting lay and there is no treatment in the model when
VQ is equal to zero. Thus, we refined the theoretical model and recomputed it by using the
same data set collected from the factory. After comparison with actual performance again,
the performance of the refined model is found to be better than that of the original model
derived by Ng et al. (1998). This implies that the refined model would be able to calculate
the total fabric loss during spreading more accurately.
REFERENCES
Cole. W. R., jun., and Sanbom. C. H.. 1995a. Cui Your Losses: Practical Tips to Improve Fabric Yield in the
Cutting Room—Part One. Bobbin. 37. No. 1. 146-151.
Cole. W. R.. jun., and Sanbom. C. H.. \995b. Cut Your Losses; Practical Tips to Improve Fabric Yield in the
Cutting Room—Pun Two. Bobbin. 37, No. 2, 76-83.
Kallman, R. M., 1979. Material Uiilization Control in ihe Cutting Room. JSN Int.. June, 26-32.
Ko.sh. K., 1990. Pattern Qualily. MU and CAD/CAM Systems, Apparel Mfr. 72. No. 8, 11, 12, 14, 16.
Magowan, J.. 1982. Optimising Material Utilisation. Ready-wear. No. II. 28-31.
Milokhina, V. A., Burlakin, A. I., and Skututa, M. A., 1986. Use of a Regression Model to Calculate Fabric Loss
along the Length of the Overlays. Tekhnol. Legkoi Prom., No. 1 (169), 90-91.
Ng, S. F.. Hui, C. L., and Leaf, G. A. V., 1998. Fabric Loss during Spreading: A Theoretical Analysis and its
Implications. J. Text. Inst.. 89, Part 1. 686-695.
Ng. T. S.. Choi. Y. H. C Lee. C , and Lau, C. C , 1990. A Study of Material Utilization for Jeans Production
(Final Report ITC). The Hong Kong Polytechnic University. Hong Kong.
Robers, F,. 1981. The Width of Shirtings as an Influence on Material Con.sumption. JSN Int.. Sept., 39-44.
Ruth. E. G., and Kunz, G. I., \99Q. Apparel Manufacturing—Sewn Product Analysis. Macmillan, New York, NY,
USA, p. 392.
Soiinger, J., 1988. Apparel Manufacturing Handbook—Analysis, Principles and Practice, Bobbin Blenheim,
Columbia. SC, USA, pp. 3-5.
Tyler, D. J., 1991. Material Management in Clothing Production. BSP Professional Books, Oxford, UK. p. 69.
Wing, B.. 1995. Cutting for Profit. World Clothing Mfr. 76. No. 6, 52-53.
Table AI
Sample Total Total Number Fabric Marker Marker Marker Total Total Length
Number of Number of of Rolls Width Length Width Efficiency Remnant of intemal'
Completed Spread Plies (m) (m) fm) Length Fabric Loss
Plies for for a (m) (m)
all Rolls Cutting Lay
1 47 60 14 1.502 19.98 1.467 11.31% 28,50 3.315
2 51 61 14 L487 20.21 1.455 13.65% 0,00 4.013
3 65 78 16 1.128 23.01 1.124 8.48% 14.81 2.193
4 59 73 18 1.521 20.98 1.480 8,52% 15.88 2.645
5 36 52 17 1.152 34.87 1.118 10.37% 11.27 4.042
6 41 51 11 1.145 23.85 1.118 13,67% 7.13 3.644
7 54 68 16 1.15 23.27 1.118 9.59% 18.40 2.495
8 34 48 15 1.509 25,87 1.473 9.01% 0.00 3.434
9 45 60 17 1,164 29,57 1.118 10.48% 92.00 3,463
10 36 50 15 1.147 30.25 1.124 8.46% 86.00 2,877
11 36 49 15 1.152 28.42 1.118 9.96% 56.10 3.164
Table AT (Continued)
Sample Total Toial Number Fabric Marker Marker Marker Total Total Length
Number of Number of of Rolls Width Length Width Efficiency Remnant of 'Internal'
Completed Spread Plies (m) (m) (m) Length Fabric Loss
Plies tor for a (m) (m)
all Rolls Culling Lay
12 27 39 15 1.155 33.17 1.118 10.65% 18.47 3.949
13 45 64 21 1.479 26.52 1.422 12.23% 67.45 4.612
14 48 64 23 1.459 23.19 1.422 11.88% 0.00 3.919
13 55 73 23 1.452 22.62 1.422 10.64% 4.07 3.422
16 44 63 23 1.459 16.86 1.422 11.46% 6.56 2.748
17 81 100 23 1.475 16.63 1.441 11.45% 0.83 2.744
18 49 67 20 1.144 28.51 .118 9.52% 12.80 3.036
19 67 89 23 1.516 25.09 .480 9.98% 3.99 3,706
20 70 89 21 1.515 25.09 .480 9.98% 16.49 3.706
21 51 66 18 1.500 25.09 .480 9.98% 73.00 3.706
22 43 55 15 i.452 25.67 .486 9.28% 2.92 3.540
23 68 78 12 1.135 16.91 .102 9.97% 19.50 1.858
24 106 119 14 1.151 11.79 .134 11.31% 89.00 1.333
25 52 65 14 1.501 19.98 .467 10.31% 38.30 3.315
26 30 44 15 1.158 34.87 .118 10.37% 10.57 4.042
27 68 79 13 1.155 14.47 .118 9.10% 4.77 1.472
28 38 51 14 1.507 25.87 .473 9.01% 126.00 3.434
29 23 38 16 1.149 33.17 1.U8 10.65% 8.05 3.949
30 43 56 15 1.513 25.67 1.486 9.28% 0.00 3.540
Table All
Sample Total Length Marker Fallout Area of Splice Area of Splice Area of
of All Fabric Area Loss Allowance End Loss
Rolls
(m) (m-) (m^) <m^
I 1241.280 198.90 10.67% 10.891 0.58% 4.601 0.25% 5.193 0.28%
2 1242.264 244.79 13.25% 6.913 0.37% 2.047 0.11% 5.237 0.28%
3 1831.019 171.05 8.28% 16.506 0.80% .703 0.08% 5-611 0.27%
4 1560.237 193.09 8.14% 9.491 0.40% .920 0.08% 7.887 0.33%
5 1841.562 210.18 9.91% 13.287 0.63% ^521 0.12% 3.372 0.16%
6 1238.895 185.84 13.10% 13.036 0.92% ,174 0,08% 2.851 0.20%
7 1616.262 169.66 9.13% 12.565 0.68% .041 0,06% 3.801 0.20%
8 1251.828 164-83 8.73% 8.956 0.47% .561 0.08% 4.172 0.22%
9 1876.683 207.78 9.51% 7.094 0.32% ().973 0,04% 3.452 0.16%
10 1623.210 143.85 7.73% 23.133 1.24% .100 0.06% 3.541 0.19%
U 1464.767 155.04 9.19% 13.964 0.83% .118 0.07% 3.068 0.18%
12 1325.258 154.01 10.06% 11.577 0.76% ,124 0.07% 1.831 0.12%
13 1780.134 295.17 11.21% 10.041 0.38% 1.402 0.09% 9.829 0.37%
14 1496.950 250.82 11.48% 8.081 0.37% .460 0.07% 9.010 0.41%
15 1671.818 249.81 10.29% 15.144 0.62% ,664 0.07% 7.059 0,29%
16 1083.106 173.12 10.96% 9,990 0.63% 3.178 0.20% 6.988 0,44%
17 1684.903 274-40 11.04% 17.840 0.72% 0-994 0.04% 11.823 0,48%
18 1941.904 203.41 9.16% 14.601 0.66% 2.029 0.09% 4.912 0.22%
19 2253.728 329.83 9.65% 12.025 0.35% 2.716 0.08% 9.484 0.28%
20 2269.113 329.83 9.59% 14.825 0.43% 3.527 0,10% 10.142 0.30%
2! 1744.442 244.60 9,35% 12.988 0.50% 1.945 0.07% 7.619 0,29%
22 1424.844 194.70 9,41% 10.580 0.51% 1,040 0.05% 3.433 0,17%
23 1347.650 144.92 9.47% 4.265 0.28% 0.683 0.04% 5.157 0.34%
24 1500.919 158.63 9.18^ 3.600 0.21% 0.970 0-06% 5,128 0.30%
25 1344.930 215.48 10.67% 6.710 0.33% 2.327 0.12% 5.721 0.28%
26 1580.096 177-85 9,84% 12.309 0.68% 1.934 0.11% 2.902 0.16%
Table Am
Sample Area of Width Total Area Computed by Computed by
Loss of Wastage Equation (1) Equation (2)