This action might not be possible to undo. Are you sure you want to continue?
Source: New Cloth Market
The defect will appear at the selvage. would cause the item to be a second. is to provide actual examples or photographs of both major and minor defects. There will also be areas of "end out". When inspecting piece goods prior to cutting. since the inspector will not know where the defect may occur on the item. Caused by yarn breaking and loom continuing to run with missing end. When the restriction is removed the excess slack is woven into the fabric. Severity Major Drawbacks Caused by excessive loom tension gradually applied by some abnormal restriction. causing the filling yarn to be woven without tension. The Quality Control Manager can provide this list to inspectors as a practical tool for achieving uniform inspection decisions. Major and Minor Defects The following definitions are central to fabric inspection: Major Defect: A defect that. This section provides a list of defects and explanations and simplifies the language and the judgments used in making visual fabric evaluations." This will usually leave an open place in the fabric.Understanding and Identification of Fabric Defects Source: New Cloth Market Often inspectors are given the responsibility of inspecting finished garments without adequate training in fabric defects and their causes. Caused by an extra piece of filling yarn being jerked part way into the fabric by the shuttle. Usually the ends are broken Caused by the filling insertion mechanism on a shuttleless loom not holding the filling yarn. Woven Fabric Defects Defect Burl Mark Explanation When a slub or extra piece of yarn is woven into the fabric. (A "second" is a garment with a conspicuous defect that affects the salability or serviceability of the item. . The filling yarn appears as "kinky". it is necessary to rate questionable defects as major. Minor Defects: A defect that would not cause the product to be termed a second either because of severity or location. Caused by tying spools of yarn together Major Dropped Pick Major End Out Major Jerk-in Major Minor or Knots Usually Minor Usually Major Mixed (Yarn) End Yarn of a different fiber blend used on the wrap frame. resulting in a streak in the fabric. The ultimate solution. it is often removed by a "burling tool. if conspicuous on the finished product. of course.
oil looking spots on the wrap or filling yarns. Major Knitting Defects Defect Barre Explanation Occurs in circular knit. Will appear as a distinct shade change. Usually caused by colored yarn out place on frame Severity Usually Major Birdseye Broken Color Pattern Drop Stitches Major or Minor Major Results from malfunctioning needle or jack. or on package-dyed yarn. It can also be caused by thick places in the yarn. Occurs in circular knit. exposing the filling yarn. the yarn elongates under tension. Results from knitting machine continuing to run with missing end. Fabric will appear to have horizontal streaks. Major End Out Occurs in wrap knit. Caused by one end of yarn missing from feed and machine continuing to run. Caused by mixing yarn on feed into machine. side by side.Mixed Filling Caused by bobbin of lightweight yarn or different fiber blend used in filling. Often is caused by fly waste being spun in yarn in the spinning process. Caused by unintentional tucking from malfunctioning needle. Caused by broken needle. when loom starts again' the slackness is woven into the fabric. Dirty. Usually caused by an extra piece of yarn that is woven into fabric. When the loom is stopped. Usually Major Major Major Hole Missing Yarn . Will appear as holes or missing stitches. Usually two small distorted stitches. Results from a bent reed wire causing wrap ends to be held apart. Major Open Reed Major Slub Major Minor or Smash Major Soiled Filling or End Stop Mark Major Can Major Minor be or Thin Place Often caused by the filling yarn breaking and the loom continuing to run until the operator notices the problem. Caused by a number of ruptured wrap ends that have been repaired. Will be conspicuous on fabrics that use different colored yarns on wrap and shuttle.
Establish standards of acceptance. Bad press-offs usually start a new roll of fabric. Fabric could appear as thick end or different color if fibers have different affinity for dye. Major Minor or Color Out The result of color running low in reservoir on printing machine Major . Will appear as vertical line. in knits the course lines lie an arc across width of goods. (Most machines have a stopping device to stop machine when a needle breaks. Severity Major or Minor depending Back Fabric Seam Impression Backing fabric is often used to cushion fabric being printed. Major Runner Caused by broken needle. Critical on stripes or patterns. an impression will result on printed fabric. Major Needle Line Major or Minor Press-Off Results when all or some of the needles on circular knitting fail to function and fabric either falls off the machine or design is completely disrupted or destroyed. Caused by bent needle forming distorted stitches. or by lint getting onto yarn feeds. Results from wrong fiber yarn (or wrong size yarn) placed on wrap. Major Bowing Usually caused by finishing. Many knitting needles are broken and have to be replaced when bad press-off occurs. Woven filling yarns lie in an arc across fabric width. If there is a joining seam in the backing fabric. Usually verticals line.Mixed Yarn Occurs in wrap knit. Major Slub Major or Minor Dyeing or Finishing Defects Defect Askewed Bias or Explanation Condition where filling yarns are not square with wrap yarns on woven fabrics or where courses are not square with wale lines on knits. not as critical on solid color fabrics.) Usually caused by a thick or heavy place in yarn.
Color applied unevenly during printing Major Mottled Major Minor or Pin Holes Holes along selvage caused by pins holding fabric while it processes through tenter frame. Major . On napped fabric. Difficult to detect during inspection on inspection machine with fabric under roller tension. usually Major for fashion outerwear. Crease mark appears where creases are caused by fabric folds in the finishing process. Major Minor or Crease Mark Differs from crease streak in that streak will probably appear for entire roll. Minor for underwear. Major. Major Crease Streak Occurs in tubular knits. final pressing may not be able to restore fabric or original condition. usually caused by defective spray heads. color migrates leaving blotchy spots. Often discoloration is a problem. Usually caused by excessive processing through tenter frames. Sanforize Pucker Major Minor or Scrimp The result of fabric being folded or creased when passing through printing machine. Results from uneven wetting out on sanforize.Color Smear The result of color being smeared during printing. tension while Major Selvage Torn Major Water Spots Usually caused by wet fabric being allowed to remain too long before drying. Major> if pin holes extend into body of fabric far enough to be visible in the finished product. Depending on the product. or Dye Streak in Printing Results from a damaged doctor blade or blade not cleaned properly. There will be areas not printed. Usually a long streak until the operator notices the problem. Fabric will appear wavy or puckering when spread on cutting table. Results from creased fabric passing through squeeze rollers in dyeing process. Major Minor.
forming what is referred to as a pill. The short staple fibers will separate from the yarn and curl up in a ball.Pilling is a common fabric defect occurring on knitted and woven fabrics. When short stable fibers are mixed into the yarn the result is a yarn that will not hold together. Originally published in New Cloth Market: June 2009 . Pilling is accentuated by the friction of normal wear. long fibers tightly-twisted produce a serviceable yarn. In producing a yarn. washing and routine drycleaning.
This action might not be possible to undo. Are you sure you want to continue?
We've moved you to where you read on your other device.
Get the full title to continue reading from where you left off, or restart the preview.