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All modern hovercraft - large and small - use a skirt of one sort or another for their suspension system so that the power required to lift the craft can be minimised. A hovercraft skirt is required to fulfil the following functions:
y y y y y y
Contain the cushion of air beneath the craft at the required hoverheight. Have the ability to conform or contour efficiently over obstacles so as to keep to minimum, the loss of cushion air. Return to its original shape after having been deformed. Give adequate stability. Offer little resistance to the passage of obstacles beneath it. Have the ability to absorb a large proportion of the energy which is produced on impacts or collisions with obstacles greater than hoverheight or cushion depth
A hovercraft skirt should have the following features:
y y y y
Be easily maintained on site without the need to lift or jack-up the craft. Have a long operating life. Be relatively simple to make and fit. Have a low maintenance cost. The initial cost of making the skirt may not be very low but it is important that once made and fitted, the skirt be cheaply maintained. Be tailored so that it is even in height above the ground all the way around the craft. One part of the skirt should not drag whilst another is 20 or 30 millimetres above the ground.
SKIRT DESIGNS There are several major designs of hovercraft skirts but only the three main types will be presented in the following pages. Each has its own applications.
The bag skirt
deciding where to put the hull structure to pick up the skirt and remembering the hydro-dynamics of the hull form. ie. DESIGN SEQUENCE The first action when designing a skirt is to decide upon the main use to which you will put the hovercraft and the type of terrain over which you intent to operate it. If you fancy yourself as the driver of a racing hovercraft you may choose the full finger skirt which has very low drag characteristics or maybe a straight bag skirt if racing on terrain where hull damage would otherwise occur if a soft skirt were used. The skirt and the hull shape must be designed together. At this point in designing a hovercraft . There fore extra cushion area and thus more lift is provided at that side. This stiffness is derived from two main sources: y y The bag skirt employs an inflated bag surrounding the air cushion and it is the pressure of the bag which provides the stability. moving the centre of lift pressure over and tending to raise the craft to restore it to a level position. All three designs use the movement of the centre of pressure on the collapse of the skirt to provide stability. the effective contact point where the skirt touches the ground moves. For a cruising craft that will be operated over water you will probably opt for the smooth but stable ride of the bag and finger skirt. Finger skirt hulls generally have rounded corners whereas those fitted with bag skirts usually have square or angular ones. The next step is to develop a section through the side skirt geometry. when the skirt crumples as the edge of the craft drops.The finger or segment skirt The bag and finger skirt HOVERCRAFT SKIRTS The stability of a hovercraft is dependent upon the pitch (fore and aft) and roll (side to side) stiffness of the air cushion..
however. The final stage is the development of the tailoring. These panels should be sufficient in number to enable the skirt to look smooth and free from stress when it is inflated. when sewn or glued together. adopt the shape required. The bow shape can now be developed in a similar way. you must decide on the type of material. splitting it into a sensible number of panels which.a great deal of variation in the exact shape and size of the skirt and structure can be considered until the happy medium is found. There should. be few enough panels to make construction of the skirt fairly simple and straightforward. Finally. .
* IF YOU ARE MAKING THE SAME AS OUR HOVERCRAFT (type 2). Type I hovercrafts generally use Bag Skirts. holes feeding into the middle. and we will briefly explore into other types of skirts As far as Hovercrafts go. but for one on a cheap homemade one): HOW THEY WORK: A bag skirt is like an intertube with a piece of plywood on top. As so far we don't know how to construct a Finger Skirt (they're really complicated). You can mix and match the type of skirt with the type of hovercraft you're making. The pressure eventually buld up enough so that it and the bag skirt is lifting the The bag skirt with a disc mounted in the middle . ONLY THE WALL SKIRT WORKS. the plywood. but down at the bottom of the page is a brief explination of what one is and how they work. inflating it so it is about two inches high. Type II (our type) use Wall Skirts. Wall Skirts. and a bag skirt like the one on hovercraft 1 doesnt work too well. and an air supply. since that's essentially what it is. there are three types of skirts to be concerned with: Bag Skirts. but as for now we've only tested Type I with a bag skirt and Type II with a wall skirt. and Finger Skirts. Our Hovercraft A bag skirt floating BAG SKIRT (Not like the ones on a racing or recreation hovercraft. making the air also build up pressure in a chamber between the ground. Air goes into the bag. When it inflates its the same principle as simply sitting on a O-shaped ballon. and Type III large-scale professional hovercrafts for racing or recreation usually use finger skirts.Skirt Designs Home Flycycle! Pictures (HPH 1) Procedure (HPH 1) Videos Pictures 1 Pictures 2 Frequently Asked Questions Building a Type I Hovercraft Rudders and Steering Building a Type II Hovercraft Introduction to Hovercrafting Skirt Designs Propulsion Contact Us Here we will give specific instructions on how to make a wall skirt. The air inflating it goes out the holes located towards the center. and the inflated ring of the bag skirt (plenum chamber). A finger/segmented skirt or real bag skirt requires the frame to have a huge air chamber built in and a ton of stuff that costs a ton and takes a ton of time.
but goes into the center where the bag contains it like walls. Then staple the skirt onto the plywood in lots of places. nylon. Make sure the skirt has enough slck to inflate. We reccommend that you first staple the skirt in place. but we cannot confirm this. and a little more than one inch in diameter. and it lifts the whole thing up a tiny bit for the air to slide out. Cut six holes about 4 inches away from the edges of the lid. mounted in the center with a disc. you'll want the bag skirt the cover the whole bottom. The reason the holes in the skirt need to be closer to the center is so that the air doesnt immediately go out of the bag and away from the craft. lay your craft on top of it. NOTE: We have not guarantee this skirt to work on a type two craft. This makes the skirt sections around the center inflate in a donut shape. Then attach your coffee can lid.com You will want a thick sheet of plastic. seal it tight with caulk. then when you know its in the right place. HOW TO CONSTRUCT A BAG SKIRT: This depends on what you're using the bag skirt on. and duct tape it a lot to the top. You want at least 5 or 6 inches of slack without having to mount the two sides too close together) and you're going to mount the outside edge of the cloth in a oval around the outside of your hovercraft. Make sure you leave enough slack so that it has space to inflate. becuase if it has none it wont lift. and the air slides out underneath the bag. If you're constructing a Type I circular. Or it will explode. making sure no air can get out. (trash bags have been known to work. creating a nearly frictionless environment. and the inside edge in a smaller oval further inward on the bottom of the hovercraft.) This sheet has to be at least two feet bigger than your craft. This means you're going to need a long straight piece of material (make sure it's thick enough by holding the sides of it and seeing how far you can push it down. Just like in the Type I A wall skirt doing its job . hovercraft from xinventions.plywood. carrying the outsides of the craft. or other air tight and durable material. On a Type II hovercraft you want to go ahead and have the piece of cloth be mounted in a donut shape. but don't make a skirt thats TOO loose. then take the corners and sides of the sheet and fold them up onto the top of the craft.
hovercraft. HOW THEY WORK: Wall skirts hang down from the edge of your hovercraft (hence the wall name). get enough material to fit around the outer edge of your hovercraft. the matress would still inflate. with top edge of the skirt mounted and bottom edge of the skirt pulled tight. So you have a long material that is about 15 inches wide. so you need something to hold it. we recommend making your skirt around 1317 inches tall. A good bag skirt is like a wall skirt that uses an inflated wall to contain the air. __________________________________________ _______________ The bottomside. If you just put this on the hovercraft the skirt would just flap out. We then sewed these pieces together. but make sure it stays the same height all around. and remember to always get a little bit extra. The skirt inflates and pushes outwards. If you're constructing an 8-by-4 hovercraft like we did. if the bottom was cut out of it. This is what we did. If you notice that the material you're buying comes in heights more than twice the height you want your skirt. and double stitched them just to be sure. . Hovercraft from xinventions. NOTE: We DO NOT reccommend using a bag skirt on your 8-by-4 Type II hovercraft because we HAVE NOT tried it before! If you try. you're doing so at your own risk of failure. since we bought a 9-by-5 foot piece of material. and cut it up into three skirt segments that were each 15 inches tall and 9 feet long. just go ahead and buy enough so you can cut it up and sew different pieces of the skirt together. so the hovercraft rides on a cushion of air. WALL SKIRT: (not generally used on high performance hovercrafts because disadvantages in repair capabilities and terrain handling capabilities. you'll need to space small holes on the bottom of the skirt to let air escape. Next.com HOW TO CONSTRUCT A WALL SKIRT: Find some airtight (make sure it's airtight before hand!) material to use for your wall skirt. and a piece of plywood placed on top of it. but when it was fully inflated some air would pick it up still a centimeter more so it could slide out from underneath. It's like an electric inflating matress.
Before you finally cut the rope and seal the knot. and knot it so it doesn't slip out. If your hovercraft doesn't inflate. and sew the material on itself to create a slot for the rope to be in) to keep it tight. This keeps the bottom of the skirt from flapping outwards. The top edge of the material is mounted to the edge of your hovercraft. not allowing enough slack. pull it tight and burn the ends to prevent fraying. But make sure that you make it with the rope already in it. so it will inflate. A professional finger skirt FOR EXTRA PROTECTION: Cover the part of the skirt that drags on the ground (the section that the rope is strung through) in duct tape or some other strong material so the sewing doesn't come undone and the rope doesn't come out. Make sure to use a strong rope that is braided rather than wound. try pulling your rope tighter. The fingers are actually a bunch of seperated "little skirts" that inflate independantly. try to make sure you haven't pulled your rope too tight. fold it over the rope. FINGER SKIRT: HOW THEY WORK: Finger skirts are used on professional hovercrafts. and the bottom end should have a rope strung through it (take the material. A finger skirt has tons of little segments that each individually inflate that conform to the ground so the hovercraft can go over all terrain. like duct tape. you need a large hull with a built in plenum chamber and that takes a lot of work.A rope is then attatched to the bottom and pulled tight. To build a finger skirt. some people fold the skirt over the rope then duct tape it. Any part of the rope (like the knot) that's going to drag across the ground should get covered in something to protect it. put the rope on it. Professional finger skirts are generally made out of very strong rubber material. so that if one part breaks it doesn't all fall apart. (We used a thick nylon rope for Home Depot) We folded an inch of the skirt over the rope and sewed it to itself to make a pocket. . Cut the skirt so that you have an inch overlapping and sew it by hand. tie the rope.
.A FINAL NOTE ABOUT SKIRTS: When picking a material. and needs to be able to maintain it's air tight manner. make sure it can take a lot of wear and tear. Keep in mind this material is going to be dragging along the ground a lot.
lead to considerable loss of skirt pressure which in turn could result in dangerous instability. The no-flow system pressurizes the loop via small scoops at the tip of the lift fan. The size of the scoop is about 10% of the total lift fan area. The radius of the inner circle is calculated by multiplying the outer radius by a factor given in the following table.2 : 1 Factor Inner radius / outer radius 6. To design the cross section. y Skirt Characteristics. however. The inflated loop consists essentially of a tube of material (similar in a way to a car inner tube) which is inflated at a slightly higher pressure than the air cushion beneath the craft and this is achieved in one or two ways: y The full flow system feeds all the lift air into the skirt and from there through small holes in the inner skirt wall into the cushion. the outer curve and the inner curve. The cross section of the bag is comprised of two radii. the height must first be established and this should be about one eighth of the craft width. To design the cross section. Usually it gives fairly high drag over undulating surfaces. Pressure Differential bag pressure / cushion pressure 1. The bag skirt is fairly simple to design and construct but gives a harder ride than the segmented type and has more limited obstacle clearance. By controlling the number and size of the holes it is possible to alter the pressure differential between the loop and the air cushion.0 . The ground contact point can in fact be positioned fractionally in from the outer hull edge but for the sake of stability. make a scale drawing of the craft lower hull at the appropriate hover height and draw in the outer semi-circle. The skirt is sealed and does not have any exit holes since most of the air is fed directly into the cushion. THE BAG SKIRT CROSS SECTION. depending upon the pressure differential between the loop and the air cushion. The inflated loop skirt is very stiff in roll and pitch. it must never be outside. Even small tears in this type of skirt can.THE BAG SKIRT Description. For simplicity it can be assumed that the ground contact point is directly beneath the outer extremity of the hull and therefore the outer radius is equal to half the distance between the ground and the upper fixing point.
center the outer radius at a distance equal to r x 0.6 : 1 1.53 3.5 3. but at the expense of undulating surface performance and higher skirt wear on uneven terrain.4 : 1 1.4 : 1 1. but the outer radius is now centered on a point retracted well in from the leading edge of the hull. thereby providing a number of joints where the skirt can be forced into this shape.43 .66 2.5 : 1 1.66 2.1. If the bow is straight with square corners.see table below. therefore the bow section is usually designed with a less bellowed outer curve. The skirt cross section calculated in this way has balanced geometry and will automatically take up this shape.7 : 1 4. use an inside radius equal to r x FACTOR as used in calculating the side cross section .6 : 1 1. The inner curve has the same radius as that of the side cross-section. This will give the inner skirt fixing point and note that the changeover from the small radius to the larger radius is at a point 15 degrees in from the ground point. The higher the ratio the greater the stability. does not have balanced geometry and so it will not automatically take up this shape but must be forced to do so by the tailoring. This shape however.43 1.2 : 1 1.3 : 1 1. After calculating the inner radius. the long front panels of the skirt will not adopt this shape and will tend to round out. THE BAG SKIRT .7 : 1 Factor Inner Radius / Outer radius 6.5 3.25 The choice of pressure differential is based upon the degree of stability required.0 2. To layout this cross section. To overcome this problem. draw in the inner circle.3 : 1 1. the bow skirt will need to be designed with balanced geometry which means using a much larger inner radius.53 3. Pressure Differential bag pressure / cushion pressure 1.5 : 1 1.8 : 1 2.85 in from the leading edge and maintaining a hover height of 1/8 hull width.0 2.0 4. This is quite acceptable if the bow corners are tapered back. provided that the pressure differential is accurately predicted.BOW SECTION An ordinary side cross section at the bow would be very prone to plough-in problems.
Each contour line should be drawn its respective distance from the outer fixing. ft) Pc = Pressure in the cushion (lb. Holes should only be cut in the bow and side sections of the skirt. Tailoring of skirts is quite an art and can be approached in two ways. checking regularly the relative pressures with a simple water manometer until the required differential is obtained.PERIPHERAL JETS The bag skirt requires a number of holes on the inner fact to transfer air from the skirt to the cushion. These marks will be the contour lines. THE BAG SKIRT . scribe marks around the skirt circumference at intervals of 100 mm. ft) Cut about 90% of the calculated number of holes and then slowly cut out the remainder. .25 The disadvantage of this skirt is the large overall width of material. put a line XY and draw contour lines at right angles to it and at 100 mm intervals.1.8 : 1 2. SKIRT TAILORING Once the skirt cross-sections have been worked out you have to decide how to cut out all the panels of material and assemble them so that the skirt will adopt the required shape. Measure the horizontal distance from the outer skirt fixing to each of these contours. To design a piece of material from AA' to BB'. For example. Even if you can patch several times your bag skirt you will need to replace him once the patches produce major wrinkles in the lower section ( 3" inner and outer of ground contact line ). / sq. ft) Q = Air Flow (cu ft / sec) Pb = Pressure in the bag (lb. / sq. These holes vary in size but are generally 3 . These contours now have to be plotted on a scale horizontal plan of the craft. Measure the distance between the AA' line and the xy line along each of the contours and transfer the distances. On a piece of skirt material. one is by employing a mathematical method and the other is by using a system of templates. The method to calculate a rear corner by drawing lines along every side. The total required area of these holes can be calculated using the following formula: A = 20 X Q Pb x Pc Where A = Total area of peripheral jets (sq. draw a 'line (xy) midway between AA' and BB' at right angles to the body.6 inches in diameter. THE BAG SKIRT The Mathematical Method: To begin. the distance between xy and AA' along the 900 contour is 300 mm. No holes should be cut in the rear section as this can cause water scooping. As well as very high wear on uneven terrain around the ground contact line. starting from the inside edge.
This is vastly different to the bag skirt which has a peripheral pressure much greater than cushion pressure.therefore put a mark 300 mm from XY on the 900 contour and repeat this for the xy to BB' distances. The extended finger is best used at the side and rear of the hovercraft as it has a better obstacle clearing characteristic and also its design helps to maximise the effective cushion area because the ground contact point is much further out towards the hull perimeter than for that of the straight finger.mark all different angles ( attachment panel to panel ) and copy to cardboard. they may be joined together with pins and subsequently sewn together as described in the mathematical method. but unfortunately is quite . The Template method. link the marks and you will have the shape for the panel. is very unforgiving to being dragged backwards over obstacles. individual strips may be sewn to the inner edges of each finger which extend out belong the ground contact point. Place the skirt material over the templates so that it adopts the proposed shape of the skirt. The inner fact of the finger skirt is completely open which means that apart from a very marginal increase in pressure due to the peripheral jetstream. Where pieces of the skirt meet at the joint. THE FINGER SKIRT The finger skirt is comprised of a large number of separate segments which are able to slide and bellow individually to conform with the shape of the water surface or terrain over which the craft is traversing. the fingers should only be attached to the craft by a rigid strip along the upper edge and by some from of corner tie at the two innermost apexes. When this has been done for each contour line.side down and affix the templates in position. This reduces their efficiency in retraining cushion air from escaping. To make up the skirt. pin the two adjacent panels together along the sewing line and sew several times for strength. The straight finger serves well as a bow skirt due to the advantageous receding angle of attached which helps in riding over waves and ground undulations and at keeping frontal spray and dust to a minimum. Cut out a number of full-size templates of the required size from stiff cardboard or plywood.allow again at least 20 mm for sewing and gluing panels together. Calculating the bow. The fingers should not be sewn or connected together in any way or else the design of the skirt which is to form a very flexible air seal between the hovercraft and terrain. Check shape on your foam mock up and continue. This is done by taking 100 mm contour points around the bow section and plotting these on a scale horizontal plan of the craft together with the side contours. The finger skirts at the rear of the hovercraft must be equipped with either a single antiscoop flap or for improved flexibility. The same techniques can be applied for the bow as that used for the other skirt sections. is a very soft and flexible with only actual cushion pressure holding it firm. allow a 20 mm margin to allow for sewing and gluing. The straight finger however. will be defeated. Lay cardboard on skirt material and transfer shape . Turn the craft hull up . To achieve this. Or try to make a mock up from your finally skirt shape in foam . When cutting out the panel.
it has become common practise for the expensive low friction neoprene coated fabric to be used only on the knuckle which constantly rubs across the on-coming waves and for less expensive noncoated fabric to be used on the bellow and sides of the finger. The knuckle template will naturally be separate from the lower part. The lengths of these curves must be equal as they represent the common stitch lines on the finished finger and the hull contact point on the crosssection shape and the top of the knuckle must come together at the same point. Extended fingers are best used at the side and rear of the craft although it is common practise to use them as bow fingers also. Allow for a seam at the top of the rectangle and then using this completed shape. make a full template out of plywood. Straight Fingers are best used at the bow of a hovercraft. To draw a development. Draw a rectangle of width equal to half the hoverheight and of height equal to the skirt length from the nose of the hull to the ground contact point. . To construct a Straight Finger Skirt. TO CONSTRUCT AN EXTENDED FINGER SKIRT. The finger skirt. simple mark around the template and cut out as many fingers as are necessary to evenly fit across the bow of your hovercraft. To design a straight finger you must draw the cross-section of the skirt under the bow and make a paper template to this shape. To make the skirt. gives a very smooth ride and has a low friction characteristic and so long as the cushion height is adequate.essential if the hovercraft is to be used anywhere than over smooth terrain. a hovercraft with a finger skirt does not trap water like a bag skirt at lift off. Allow for a seam at the top of the knuckle and then using this completed shape. you must draw the cross section of the skirt under the bow and make a paper template to this shape. straight or extended. Next draw a rectangle of height equal to the straight fore edge of the cross section and of width equal to half the hoverheight. The extended finger however is a little more difficult to design . CHARACTERISTICS OF THE FINGER SKIRT The straight finger skirt is easy to design and construct and repair work is also easy because of the small size of each segment. The extended skirt knuckle is developed by extending two curved lines upward from the centre of the top of the rectangle to intersect with a horizontal line equal in width to half the hoverheight and at such a height that the distance along the outward radiating curves is exactly equal to the upward radiating curves. make a full template out of plywood. Transpose the cross-section shape along both sides of this rectangle and then draw in two smooth curves from the centre of the top of the rectangle out to the outer hull contact points of the two adjoining skirt cross-sections. in lieu of the straight finger which has a set back ground contact point. Duplicate the cross section pattern and lay these alongside the rectangle. it may be an advantage to leave a web of material between the two curve lines on each side to facilitate stitching. is ideal for travelling at high speed over waves and rough ground. Apart from the rear fingers which should have an anti-scoop flap. An extended finger uses a great deal more material than a straight finger or bag skirt and for this reason. but when making the skirt.
. you will need to make approximately three fingers on each side with progressively more knuckle bellow to accommodate the transition between the straight fingers and the extended fingers.If you use straight fingers on the bow.
Even with the partial loss of up to 3 finger your craft will fly safely. You will see this skirt design in nearly all commercial craft and some noncommercial. While a replaced finger has the same ground contact shape as all the other finger and will not be worn off quicker than the surrounding finger. All patches and repair on a bag skirt will only be quickly chaffed off if they are close to the "ground contact" line. Low friction from the small cross section of the finger compared to the wide and relatively inflexible bag skirt. Detail of commercial Bag and finger skirt as used on the Hover ferry. Where there is a lot of sunshine is always some shadow . This combination uses the positive aspects of both skirt designs while only implementing marginal disadvantages of the finger and bag skirt. It is easier and more inexpensive to replace some finger than a whole bag skirt of a craft. The bag section is not only a flexible attachment for the finger but as well a pressurized flexible cushion to the craft. The bag section provides higher stability to the craft while absorbing great forces to the bow and side section just before "plow in" would occur.the biggest disadvantages of the B/Fskirt are the high weight.THE BAG AND FINGER SKIRT The integrated bag and finger skirt compromises between the flexibility of the finger skirt and the economy of the bag skirt. Most of the time you can get your craft at a save location if not even back to your home base or trailer. Several small drain holes in the bags aft section will allow the water to drain out of your skirt and hold craft weight low. big amounts of material and much labor to build. It is the most complex and sophisticated Hovercraft skirt . Reduce "plow in" compared to a racing finger skirt provided by the upper bag section of this skirt. As shown in several tests it is seldom that you damage several finger at the same time and it is easier to repair in the field once damage occurs than a bag skirt. The advantages are a relative smooth ride over most uneven surfaces with the finger section quickly adjusting to the surface contours. Because of these . In the integrated bag and finger skirt ( short B/F-skirt ) the bag section can be easily drained once water found its way in.a combination of a pressurized bag skirt and finger skirt.
20 % and the finger section the remaining 80 . Building sequence: You can break down the building sequence into five major steps : 1. Bag section molds . For all cruising craft with a mixed use of land. Sequence 1. water.90% of your final hover height. start lift and mark ground contact line on finger. cut in shape and enjoy flying.) Before you can get your bag and finger cross section you have to determine your actual hover height which should be about 10% of your craft width. Hold in mind that your bag section has to provide a section which is parallel to the surface to attach your finger. If you use your craft over not totally frozen bodies of water you could reduce damage from floating ice. Once you have the shape you can either make a temporary mock up to get the dimensions or follow bag skirt and finger skirt pages for the dimensions. A craft mostly used over ice or smooth water would as well not benefit from the B/F-skirt.) Set your craft on temporary feet.) Glue the finger to the bag sections and bag sections to each other 4.) Cut and mark the fabric for final glue joints 3. 2.) Dimension of bag section and finger. ice and uneven terrain the skirt would provide the biggest benefit. Once you know your hover height the bag section should provide 10 .) Apply to craft and adjust bounce web. As you see the skirt selection is mostly done from the final application of your craft.downsides this skirt design is not at all useful for a racing craft. 5.
Do not attempt to glue both at the same time since this would loosen the wet glue joint. remaining fabric can be used for finger.) Lay the bag skirt sections (sides of craft) on a flat surface and make sure that there are no wrinkles in the fabric.Sequence 2. make a template of a single finger and mark to the left over material. Allow enough time for the glue to set before bending them over and glue one side section ( reference point B ) to the bag section. Mark the corner glue joints and don't forget to allow at least ?? ( or 1.which can be easiest done if your bag skirt panels ( side and front / aft ) are temporary glued together.) Take the dimension (length ) from the lower skirt attachment line and top skirt attachment line of your craft. Leave the last 1 ? ? ( or 50 cm ) open for the final corner finger . Glue every second finger ( reference point A ) to your bag skirt section. . On the outer surface of the bag skirt panel mark the location of your finger .it is useful to start from the CL of the bag and work yourself to the aft and front corner. and mark the bag skirt section first. Sequence 3.2 cm ) for overlap and glue joint. Once you have all lines on the fabric. Turn the bag skirt fabric around and mark location of the bounce web. Satisfied with the layout start cutting all the finger and bag skirt sections. Start with the side sections of the craft . Mark and cut the fabric as well as mark the final glue joints. After the glue has adequate set apply the last finger section ( reference C) to your bag section.
Only if this is the case start gluing the finger in the same sequence as on the side panels of the skirt. .Top= Finger / X-X-X. Now is the best time to glue all corner joints on your bag section. This is best done when you glue the corners of the bag skirt along the lower corner together while the fabric is still laying flat on a surface. side front and aft finger attached . Before gluing the finger to the front and aft sections of your skirt verify your CoG on the craft and be sure that the fingers ground contact line will have an equal distance ( CoG to front ground contact line as well as CoG to aft ground contact line. Apply the bounce web to the inner side of the skirt and if you are 100% confident that the dimensions are correct . Once you have all finger in place you can turn your skirt around and it should stand on all the finger 45 degree pointing upwards.glue as well to the top craft attachment line (not recommended). right = C Bottom template for finger Once you are done with the first set apply the remaining finger ( every second one) on glue joint (reference A) to the bag section. left = B .) to the CoG.if you rush now you will increase friction of the craft.Line = folding line top = a. Even if it is very time consuming to apply the corner finger . Allow at least 24 hours for your glue to set before applying the side sections of these finger in the same building sequence as described above for the first set. More or less done deal.ready for corner layout Once all finger are attached to your bag skirt section decide on a nice and clean layout for the corner finger.
Once the pressure escaped from your skirt it is relatively easy to cut your finger in shape.reduce lift pressure to just over idle.) Once your skirt is all glued and well dried . Just for safety reasons leave at least ?? (1. Sequence 5. Most of them will be tucked under the craft and show wrinkles in the ground contact line. . This should provide enough pressure to hold the bag section inflated and apply a small amount of pressure to the finger. Mark all finger along the ground contact line and shut lift unit down. If you have no major wrinkles in the bag section and the appearance is more or less smooth it's time to get to the final adjustment of the finger. Now the bag and finger skirt should lay quite flat to the floor and it is the best possibility to attach the bounce web ( temporary with SS staples ) before you fold the bag section over and attach to the top hull attachment line. The easiest way is to let the lift unit lift your craft and slide precut temporary feet under the craft. Once all finger are even the required air volume should be less and friction between surface and finger nearly nothing. When the skirt is all sealed it's time to start your lift unit and apply pressure to the skirt . Start your lift unit and your craft should fly gently off the temporary feet ready for your first test flight.) Final adjustment. Try to support your craft on a leveled surface to actual hover height.the bag section should inflate while the finger should slowly expand and hold the air under your craft.start with the aft lower craft attachment line and work yourself forward.you can start to attach it to your craft .Sequence 4.2 cm ) from your marked ground contact line to the actual cut. Once the skirt is attached to the lower hull set your craft on a leveled surface. Once you have supported your craft even .