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Cambelt change on a R33 GTS-t - by Bob Owen (bob.owen@btinternet.

com )
I struggled finding ay information on the web, with detailed instructions for a cam belt change I did find the actual Nissan belt number however, so decided to change it myself. Total time needed, IF you have all the tools is around 3 hours. In reality, for most of us anyway, you will probably need nearer 5 or 6 hours. This covers the coffees, the fags, answering the phone, finding that dropped screw, locating that bloody 10mm spanner that was here a moment ago and all the other distractions that plague the home mechanic Before you decide to go ahead yourself, you do need all the normal metric spanners and sockets, including a 23mm one for the crank pulley bolt and allen keys, plus a persuader extension tube for the socket wrench. You will also need a suitable pulley extractor to remove the crank pulley, and ideally a torque wrench for re tightening. A bottle of Tippex is helpful to mark various timing marks, but any other suitable means of marking can be used You will, of course, also need the cambelt. While carrying out this job, it makes sense to replace all the ancillary drive belts that drive the alternator, air con and power steering. The Nissan numbers for all these are:CAMBELT AIRCON ALTERNATOR POWER STEER - 13028-20P25 (Supersedes 20P10) - 11720-77A01 - 11720-42L01 - 11950-58S01 (Supersedes 77A00)

If your local Nissan dealer can't or won't help, (Even if they do, they will probably have to order them in) then try Middlehurst Nissan parts on 01744 457166. They usually carry them in stock and will take orders over the phone. Cambelt is around 40 pounds, the rest are about 10/11 pounds each and overnight delivery around a tenner... My local dealer wouldn't even take cards over the phone, you would have to call in so they could swipe the card. Then call back to collect the parts, customer service eh? The job itself is mainly removing light parts, fixed by small nuts and bolts, the crank pulley being the only pig element. I will show you a rather neat way of locking it in place while you undo the main fixing bolt, with nothing more than a little nylon cord! (Thanks for that Roger)

You must protect lose a litre or so of coolant. and some mechanical experience then this is not a particularly difficult job. The rest is up to you! 1 . Bend the hose back. This article is only MY experience and I do not accept ANY liability should you choose to go ahead. Ease the this . you would drain all coolant. is a round device fixed with 3 bolts. Remove the spark plugs. This is the cam sensor. On the LHS. At the bottom of the cam belt cover (Which is actually in two parts. Using this as a guide. here's how I did it. Undo the 4 nuts holding the fan stem on its pulley and gently remove 3 .Identify the plastic shroud fixed to the radiator rear.Reread disclaimer. Remove the radiator OR find a suitable piece of cardboard to cover the radiator matrix with. If you are in any doubt.Finish your brew. you would remove the radiator. with a keen conscience and plenty of time.DISCLAIMER: If you have the tools.owen@btinternet. Get the kettle on. You will . On the LHS is a sensor. go to:a) b) c) LHS the alternator and fan the power steering pump (PSP) the aircon compressor RHS upper RHS lower 2 . you would obtain the correct locking tools. to avoid any possible damage. It has an electrical loom entering it. Any constructive comments or further detailed info that could be included are most welcome Bob. you should find no major problems. located on the front of the block. upper right of the cambelt cover. Disconnect the battery. in fact if your that keen. Unplug this and remove the loom from the clips on the shroud. Remove the two top screws holding the plastic radiator shroud in place.the slightest touch on this WILL bend the fins and block your radiator air flow off or worse. out of the way. Tuck the loom and plug well out of the way. Unscrew the clamp holding the top hose on the radiator LHS and pull off. which would require starter motor removal. an upper and lower) you will see the main crank pulley with all the belts on These belts. 3 off. seek qualified All references to LHS (Left Hand Side) and RHS (Right Hand Side) are with the viewer standing in front of the car facing the engine THE BEGINNING In an ideal world. you would wheel out your 'Snap On' tool box. lift the bonnet and identify the various parts In front of you is the cambelt cover. you'd probably pay someone else to do it! Anyway. notice the fan is held onto a pulley by 4 nuts. make a nice brew. you would obtain the correct puller.

so repeat as per alternator 5 .shroud partially out and pull the hose that is clipped in the bottom of the shroud. you will see it passes an idle wheel near the bottom of the engine bay. you need to drop the plastic pan running across the engine bay bottom. which allows the belt to come off the alternator. The tray will drop down at the front.Remove all ancillary belt . Access is easy without crawling right under the car.On the LHS identify the alternator locking bolt and adjuster screw SEE FIG. out. being held up by the rear most bolts that do not need removal.If you examine the A/C compressor belt. Remove the shroud 4 . then the middle 2. To access the adjuster. unslacken these. The power steering pump on the RHS has a similar arrangement.1. Remove the front 3 bolts. Slacken the idler off 6 .

This is held in place with a central bolt.. allowing you to undo the bolt. you can get on with the job of removing the crank pulley. Then it needs to pass over the alternator pulley. you need to wrap the cord around the pulley and pass it through itself as shown.Look at FIG.5M long and about 4mm diameter. You will need a 23mm socket and a good extension bar to undo the beast.. To adjust the length. twist the cord before putting it on the alternator pulley.THE PIG 1 . so to speak. is that the pulley turns with it. Military types will know this as 'para cord' 2 .Having now cleared a space.. which will effectively shorten it . My motor is an auto. if you have a manual you may be able to put it in gear and get someone to stomp down on the brakes. about 1. maybe I'm sure that Nissan will have some engine locking device. probably involving starter motor removal and locking the starter ring The solution I used is incredibly simple and easy. It works too! I took a length of nylon cord. The problem of course.2.

to 'crack' it off the shaft. without fouling the radiator The pulley is actually a collection of pulleys fixed together via an internal rubber mount. Locate the cam sensor on the upper RHS of the cam belt cover SEE FIG. to make life easier on replacement CHANGING THE BELT 1 .Having gotten this far. Ease the sensor out. you now need the puller to pull the pulley off the crank. the worst is over. Once the bolt is removed. it is worth cleaning the shaft and pulley mating surfaces.3. as the fixing holes are slotted. it should lock the crank pulley and allow the bolt to be undone. Make a celebratory brew. Mark the cover and the sensor with Tippex or some other marker before removing. pull the wiring loom out of the clip and tuck it out of the way . This means that the rubber will compress as the pulley assembly is pulled off. This needs to be replaced back in the exact same position! It is on a keyed spline and can only go on/off one way.3 . I used a cheapish 2 legged puller I've had knocking about. using your extension shaft on the wrench and rotating anti clockwise.Now. so the puller has to be wound more than normal. The pulley assembly is keyed onto the shaft Once removed. this is held in place by 3 bolts which allow adjustment. but needed to cut 50mm off the legs to allow it to fit in place.

Remove the upper cam belt cover. two rotating wheels in the centre and the bottom crank belt pulley. The RHS centre wheel is a fixed idler. don't lose these! They are also different lengths.2 .4 for LHS . the back of the corresponding tooth and the block marker with Tippex SEE FIG. Behind each cam pulley is a notch on the engine block.You should now see the cam belt in all its glory. I marked the dimples. You will see the two cam pulleys at the top.There are 3 timing marks you need to identify. The LHS centre wheel is the tensioner 4 . Each cam pulley has a dimple alongside one tooth. Ease the cover off 3 . so take note where each one comes from. They are held in place with bolts fixed in rubber grommets.

Mark these with Tippex SEE FIG. On my car.5 . this was marked with a dot of orange paint. On the lower cam belt cover is a raised marker on the upper RHS. Holding the pulley in the orientation it came off. the TDC (Top Dead Centre) notch that is the most anti clockwise one.The crank pulley you removed has a series of notches.

which allows you to rotate it with an allen key and vary the tension. The tensioner must be on and all 3 marks must align correct – that is. 6 . (Rotating the crank pulley) so that the crank pulley and the lower cover mark are in line. rotate the tensioner against its internal spring to its slack position. Lock it in this position and ease the cam belt off by edging it of each pulley in turn by a millimetre or so at a time.Remove the crank pulley again and the lower cam belt cover. Slacken the nut. This places the engine at its TDC point. retighten the tensioner centre nut to lock it . The tensioner has an allen key hole off centre. If not. Observe the cam pulley marks as you rotate the crank pulley. If not. Check the idler wheel (RHS) is in good condition easy to move and has no wobble. Once correct. the crank pulley mark and each of the cams. so it engages the keyway. You must arrive at a point where all 3 marks are aligned.Ease the crank pulley back on. It is locked in position by a central nut. Remember the cam pulleys will pass their marks TWICE for every rotation of the crank. You should see them in line with their block marks. taking care to ensure there is no slack on the RHS. Release the tensioner and recheck all the timing marks. replace 7 -Fit the new belt on the pulleys. This is essential as even one tooth slack will screw the cam timing up and probably your engine! Note that the belt is marked to indicate its front edge. All 3 must be aligned. then redo. Rotate the engine by hand. when the crank pulley is at TDC.5 .

When correct. Re check that all 3 timing marks (The crank and each cam) are perfectly aligned 9 . The engine can be started to check all is well. Rotate the crank pulley AGAIN and recheck the marks are all perfectly aligned!!!!! Remove crank pulley 3 . Refit the crank pulley on the crank.RonS). and rotate the engine at least 2 times.Ease the crank pulley on again. Give engine a good coat of 'looking at'. remove all tools and wonder where that screw that's left over came from.RonS) . If any resistance is felt .Make a brew. Refit plastic lower engine pan. Refit top hose and top system coolant up 8 . ensuring sensor and bottom hose are fitted as they came off.Refit the lower and upper cam belt covers. rotate the crank pulley a number of times to ensure the engine can turn OK and there are no strange noises. nice work Bob . jiggling the still loose top cam belt cover to allow central fitting. looms. I don't know the Nissan figure – you may want to check this (140 ft/lb is fine . Refit fan and radiator shroud. Make sure all loose items.8 .Refit cam sensor ensuring you re align with the marks made earlier.Clean and polish everything. so it just catches the keyway. Remember the water pump is not running – so there is no coolant circulating! Do not run for more than a minute 7 . check all parts are refitted. I tightened the crank bolt to 140 ft/lb which I remember from the last car I did. Refit plugs and reconnect battery 6 . VROOM VROOM! (Info should be good for any RB engine.Make brew.Re read the disclaimer at the top of this article. Its downhill from now on FINALLY 1 .STOP . retighten sensor and cover 5 . sensors are clear.Refit and tension all belts. Use the rope technique described earlier (Or your engine locking device) but in reverse. leaving the top one a little may have made a mistake with the timing and now have interference between piston and valve. remove rope 4 .At this point.Rotate the crank pulley AGAIN and recheck the marks are all perfectly aligned 2 .