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4 2010

24 Hours IN Tokyo
bengaluru saves its heritage buildings


Magazine of the Marco polo club
4 2010

Co N t E N t S

06 MESSagE froM
tHE Club

FE AT urEs
18 EXpErt aDvICE Does the shape and type of glass alter the taste and quality of fine wine? 24 pErSpECtIvE What makes a city liveable? Vienna might top the lists but would you want to live there? 16 30 24 HourS A day in the life of Tokyo, from Asakusa’s ancients temples to Zen gardens 38 travEl Bengaluru preserves its heritage colonial buildings and the trees that make it The Garden City of India 18

08 EXplorE
HoNg KoNg

Great coffee and chocolate, bikes and kayaks, and a new map 12 EXplorE
tHE worlD

Drive through China, slide in Singapore and study in Bangkok 30

44 INSIDE CX A hydropower project in rural China helps us to FLY greener 48 CX NEwS Asia Miles award, new amenity kits, flights increase, and more news

14 wHat’S oN Tennis in Hong Kong, China treasures at the Met, and Phuket sailing 16 CHoICE Speakers that sound impeccable and look sculptural

Grace Poon Mun Wong Ella Young Mandy Chau
The Club is published by Cathay Pacific Loyalty Programmes Ltd. (CPLP) Cathay Pacific – The Marco Polo Club, PO Box 1024, Tsuen Wan Post Office, Hong Kong. Tel +852 2747 5500 Fax +852 2537 9900. No part of this magazine may be reproduced without the written permission of CPLP Ltd. All rights reserved. Copyright 2010 by CPLP Ltd. Opinions in The Club are the writers’ and not necessarily endorsed by CPLP Ltd. Manuscripts, photographs, drawings and other materials will not be returned unless they are accompanied by a self-addressed envelope and appropriate international postal coupons. The Club cannot be held responsible for unsolicited material.

unit 604-5, 6/F, 625 King’s road, Quarry Bay, Hong Kong Tel +852 3921 7000 Fax +852 3921 7099 Website Email

Chief Executive Officer Julie Sherborn • Publishing Manager Alky Cheung • Editor in Chief William Fraser • Chief Sub Editor Andy Gilbert • Sub Editors Ellen Wong, Yam Yim-lan, Kathy Wang, John Cramer, Ling Ka-wai • Art Director Shaun Horrocks • Designer Sepfry Ng • Photo Editors Elisa Fu, Ester Wensing • Production Director Jimmy Tse • Assistant Production Manager Chris Wong

Managing Director Peter Jeffery +852 2850 4013 Hong Kong, Advertisement Director (Cathay Pacific) Teresa Ngai +852 3106 8133 Printer: Paramount Printing Company Limited

advErtising EnquiriEs asian in-flight MEdia liMitEd

Photos. Meiji shrine Gardens: Martin Hladik – Dorling Kindersley/Getty images

Editorial advisory Board

PuBlishEd By aCP MagazinEs asia liMitEd

m e ssag e fr o m t h e clu b

A new lounge, new planes, more flights
Katie Rowen, Manager The Marco Polo Club


t is always nice to be the bearer of good news and we have plenty of glad tidings for the members of The Marco Polo Club as we approach the festive season. Cathay Pacific’s interim results, announced in August, showed a healthy profit of HKD6,840 million for the first six months of 2010. As business continues to return, we have announced our commitment to investing in new aircraft and upgrades to our products and services. In September Cathay Pacific concluded a purchase agreement with Airbus for the delivery of 30 new A350-900 aircraft, representing our biggest single aircraft purchase. The new acquisitions are valued at HKD60.84 billion at list price. Deliveries will begin in 2016 and are scheduled to stretch over a three-year period.

Also in September, we signed an agreement with The Boeing Company to exercise purchase rights for six more of the manufacturer’s B777-300ER (Extended Range) aircraft with an estimated value of HKD12.5 billion at list price. These additional aircraft will swell the airline’s total order for the aircraft type to 36 and will be delivered in 2013 and 2014. In October, our brand new First and Business Class departure lounge at Hong Kong International Airport opened. The Cabin is located by Gate 23 and covers 1,339 square meters with 200 seats. Highspeed Wi-Fi access, 11 PCs, six iMacs and a video-conference suite allow you to stay informed, in touch and entertained. You can also use one of 20 Wi-Fi enabled iPads pre-loaded with the latest apps including newspapers, magazines and games. Don’t

forget to try the innovative and unique Cathay Solus Chair. In addition we will be renovating The Wing, on a rolling basis to ensure as little disruption as possible to our members. We are also restoring passenger capacity as strong demand returns. Cathay Pacific has added additional flights to Sydney, Perth, Brisbane, Cairns, Auckland, Toronto, Osaka and Paris. Dragonair, which celebrated its 25th anniversary this year, has resumed flights to Fukuoka and Hongqiao International Airport in Shanghai, both daily services. Finally, Asia Miles was honoured to be named “Best Frequent Flyer Programme” for the sixth consecutive year at the 2010 Business Traveller Asia-Pacific Travel Awards in September. Thank you all for your support!

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Test your chocolate palate

In appraisal of chocolate
Taste 13 different types of top-quality raw and pure dark chocolate from 10 countries at Belgium chocolatier Goossens, which recently opened its first store in Hong Kong. Many of the samples are single origin and single estate. The informative tastings take a stroll through chocolate’s history from the time cocoa was first discovered in 2000BC to modern processing. Tastings cost HKD50 per person and take place at the shop in Happy Valley, or can be arranged at corporate venues.

Stick around for a buzzy time
Like a lazy susan, Busy Suzie is round and the centre of a lot of action. The circular Japanese robatayaki restaurant in the Heritage 1881 complex is the brainchild of dragon-i founder Gilbert Yeung. French designers Patrick Gilles and Dorothée Boissier – responsible for Buddakan in New York and Cha Cha Moon in London – created the interiors that add to the buzzy atmosphere. No detail has been overlooked – Joseph Li designed uniforms for the staff, who even have consultants for their hair and sneakers. The robata chefs pass the food from the grills to diners on wooden paddles – not on a lazy susan.

Made to measure
Stylish menswear designer Tom Ford recently opened a store in Hong Kong’s IFC Mall and has just added made-to-measure tailoring to its services. Clients can select from 217 fabrics for suiting and 130 for shirting.

A new model Ford
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www. The bikes combine peak performance with sophisticated aesthetics and can be bought online. www.Wheel life Neil Pryde is best known as Hong Kong’s slick manufacturer of sailing and sail-boarding the club 9 .neilprydebikes. and wetsuits. Now the company has added bicycles to its repertoire with the launch of two high-performance road bikes. a powerboat can whizz visitors to the beautiful beaches and clear seas of Tai Long Wan in minutes. hiking through the area’s beautiful country park or a mixture of all three.creativecity. www. Expect to see the area’s stunning volcanic coastline and explore sea caves and arches. developed with BMW Group subsidiary DesignworksUSA. Creative City is a pocket-sized map that folds out into six different districts with recommendations for more than 150 locations from art galleries to architectural landmarks and quirky design-led shops.kayak-and-hike. Available from major book All mapped out Discover the art galleries and creative places that Hong Kong designers love with the help of a new design.and culturefocused map compiled using recommendations from some of the city’s experts. part of the Geopark The action revolves around the Japanesestyle robatayaki grill at Busy Suzie Outdoor pursuits Discover Hong Kong’s wild side by exploring the Geopark at Sai Kung in the New Territories with a mix of kayaking and hiking trips led by experts. the Alize and the Sha Tong Hau Arch on Bluff Island. Options include kayaking and snorkelling around the area’s geological wonders. If that sounds too strenuous.

com.pontiwinecellars. roasted in Wellington and served to an enthusiastic customer base in Hong Kong. this is Fuel’s first venture outside New Zealand. quote your membership number and promotion code “MP731” when making your reservation.baristajam. Wedged between dry cleaners. Telephone: +852 2584 7038 (Reservation) Email: hongkong. There’s a gelato bar and an enticing selection of Café Punta del Cielo On the corner of Wellington and Lyndhurst Streets. Barista Jam serves excellent coffee (using a changing selection of single-origin beans) and a small selection of sandwiches and salads. the slick blackand-white interior is cool and calm. The main counter is dominated by two enormous shiny Victoria Arduino espresso machines and the coffee is freshly roasted on site by Italian master roaster Domenico Spadaccini. minimalist interior and devotion to the art of coffee-making. www. www. members of The Marco Polo Club will receive a 15% discount on purchases of selected festive wines from Ponti Wine Cellars. Website: hongkong. To enjoy the Holly Brown The spacious interior sets Holly Brown apart.fuelespresso. credit must be used per stay and is non-cumulative.hollybrowncoffee. Stock is subject to availability. this little gem in Sheung Wan is a tiny taste of Australia on lively Jervois Street. Coffee is supplied by a Mexican chain devoted to coffee-making in all its stages and including: • Complimentary upgrade from Grand Room to Grand Harbour View Room upon reservation • Spending credit of USD120 in Plateau Spa or restaurants and bars during stay To enjoy this offer. A minimum stay of 2 consecutive nights is required. carpenters and Chinese medicine shops. Ponti Wine Cellars source exceptional wines direct from Europe and around the world for the enjoyment of wine lovers – embracing every opportunity to share their passion and enthusiasm for wine with their customers. Barista Jam With its polished concrete floors. present your membership card when making your purchase.puntadelcielo. and present your membership card upon check-in. Website: www. In case of any dispute. florists. 10 the club . Choose from a menu of 12 coffees including espresso macchiato and a delicious café Bean hunters Hong Kong’s coffee culture has long been dominated by the big chains but a growing band of good independent coffee shops has hit town. Spa or food and beverage credit is not applicable to the purchase of merchandise. Fuel Tucked away on the top floor of the IFC Mall. www.grand.grand@hyatt. members of The Marco Polo Club who stay at Grand Hyatt Hong Kong for a minimum of two consecutive nights can enjoy a range of Domenico Spadaccini and the Holly Brown coffee team Terms and conditions 1.PA r T n E r O F F E r S Enjoy a complimentary room upgrade and spending credit at Grand Hyatt Hong Kong From 16 November 2010 to 15 February 2011. the decision of Ponti Food & Wine cellar ltd. The coffee is blended in Enjoy a 15% discount on selected wines from Ponti Wine Cellars From 16 November 2010 to 15 February Terms and conditions 1. shall be final. www. Saint-Emilion Grand Cru • Faiveley Chablis 1er Cru “Fourchaume” 2007 • Neyen Espiritu de Apalta 2005 • Renato Ratti Barolo Marcenasco 2006 • Duckhorn Napa Valley Merlot 2007 Established since 1988. This quarter’s featured wines are: • Bruno Paillard Champagne Assemblage Brut 1999 • Chateau Daugay 2005.

one of the few places in the world where double ikat woven fabric is produced.shang-xia. Ikat is a style of weaving that uses a tie-dye process on either the warp or weft before the threads are woven to create a pattern or design. Founded by Alex Kerr. accommodation. who has a passion for the traditional crafts of China. organises a Chinese driving licence and insurance and locates good Hit the road Mainland China Fancy a driving holiday through China – the easy way? On the Road in China guides you through the backblocks and some of the most scenic regions of China in a convoy of SUV vehicles on tours of five to 14 days. red and indigo and the dyes are derived from plants. and Escape to Shangri-La (five days). Kanok. Ikat: Alamy/ArgusPhoto. the ubiquitous Thai flame motif 12 ThE CLUB Photos.balitourismboard. cultural explorer and long-time resident Fine craftsmanship in Shang Xia’s zitan furniture and cashmere clothing of Japan and Thailand. Olympics: Getty Images . With the double ikat method. On the Road in China arranges the logistics. both the warp and the weft are tie-dyed before weaving to create patterns. opened in Shanghai. cashmere clothing and fine porcelain homewares www. Slide: Changi Airport Group. Best of Yunnan on Back Roads (eight days).E XPLO R E THE WORLD Made in China Shanghai China’s first high-end luxury brand. http://origin-asia. the aim is to teach the traditional cultures by experiencing them first Cultural affairs Kyoto. Bangkok and Chiang Mai. is a joint venture between French marque Hermés and designer Jiang Qiong Er. an author. Shang Xia. www.ontheroadinchina. A lead vehicle guides a maximum of four other Toyota Prado SUVs with pre-programmed GPS and walkie-talkies. in Bali Fruits of the loom Bali Visitors to Bali should take the trip to the charming village of Tenganan near Candidasa. Itineraries include From Kunming to Lhasa (14 days).com Complex and rare double ikat produced in Tenganan. The first boutique. Escape to Shangri-La: Peter Schindler. Bangkok and Chiang Mai Learn Asian arts from calligraphy to preparing a Japanese tea ceremony with Origin. The colours are limited to yellow. The elaborately designed ikat weave cloth is known as gringsing and can take months to complete. The lessons are taught in traditional buildings in Kyoto. was designed by Japanese architect Kento Kuma and the stock reflects Jiang’s modernist take on the traditional craftsmanship with elegant zitan wood furniture.

Enjoy the ride Singapore First came the Balinese-themed swimming pool and now Singapore’s Changi Airport has added a 12-metre (four-storey) twister slide to its list of attractions. Bookings are essential. The tour also shows how this area is being transformed into a green corridor with five kilometres of parkland. The journey from Narita International Airport to central Tokyo has been shaved by 15 minutes and now takes 36 minutes on the new Narita Sky Access entertainment-lifestyle The road to Tiger Leaping Gorge on the Escape to Shangri-La tour New twist to transit time Game plan London Take a tour to glimpse London’s 2012 Olympic Games venues. The new Skyliner train has spacious seats. providing a smooth 15-minute ride from Suvarnabhumi to the city centre. airy cabin and extra room for baggage. the spectacular wave-shaped roof of the Aquatics Centre. www. In Bangkok the longawaited rail link has opened. For every SGD10 (about HKD60) spent in the airport. which are rapidly taking shape in the 200-hectare Olympic Park in East London.bangkokairporttrain. The aim is to have everything finished by mid 2011 to allow for time for test runs. see the 80. Tours depart at 11am every day from Bromley-by-Bow underground London’s Olympic basketball arena ThE CLUB 13 .000-seat Olympic Olympic Village.html www. www. www. and the On the airport fast track Tokyo and Bangkok Travel times from airport to the city centre of both Tokyo and Bangkok have been dramatically reduced thanks to new train services travelling at speeds of up to 160 kilometres per shoppers receive one token for a ride on the slide at Terminal 3. which will host the opening and closing ceremonies. designed by architect Zaha Hadid. Choose between two speeds. transforming it into one of the largest new urban parks in Europe in 150 years.olympictourguides2012. From viewing points.narita-airport. a light.changiairport.

com Photos. Phuket: Dubrovskaya. meets Graham McDowell. Hong Kong Four international races with total prize money of HKD64 million – the highlight of the Hong Kong racing calendar.olympiahorseshow. www. 4-11 December Phuket King’s Cup Regatta 14-20 December Olympia: The London International Horse Show . Fanling. Florida The most important art show in the United states attended by international artists and all major commercial art 12 December Cathay Pacific Hong Kong International Races Sha Tin. London One of the world’s major equestrian events. who clinched the Ryder Cup for 14 THe CLub Phuket This major Asian bluewater sailing tournament has evolved into a “big boat”. Hong Kong The best of the international design world comes to Hong Kong to focus on the vital links between creativity and commercialism. www. French golfer Grégory Bourdy. DECEMBER 2-5 December Art Basel Miami Beach Miami. big boats in Phuket 29 November – 4 December Business of Design Week Various Blue water.kingscup. www.artbaselmiami beach. Races: Bobby Yip – West Kensington. www.cxhkir. www. Hong Kong Title holder.w hat ’ s o n WINTER EvENTs Vision D’etat wins the 2009 Hong Kong Cup NOVEMBER 18-21 November UBS Hong Kong Open Hong Kong Golf Club.bodw. ocean-going event.

http://festivals. www. The Forsythe Company.hksalsafestival. For details.discoverhongkong.theforsythecompany. 11-12 December. The Americas and Asia Pacific compete in the World Team Challenge. The exhibition includes JANUARY Photos. http://corporate. 17-18 January 2011 Asian Financial Forum Hong Kong Convention and exhibition Centre Hear influential members of the global financial and business community discuss developments and trends in 5-8 January 2011 Hong Kong Tennis Classic 2011 Victoria Park Tennis Stadium. Hong Kong http://hkballet.hongkongtennis festival.cloudgate. Russia. 31 December: The english/index. com/festivehk2010/eng/cny/ highlight_celebrations. Ballet: Johan Persson.snowfes. Chiayi County: Water Stains on the 17-27 December: The Nutcracker. www. bolshoi ballet. www. Moscow www. The emperor took a personal interest in the arts and had a onehectare private retreat built within the Forbidden City.1 February – 1 May 2011 The Emperor’s Private Paradise: Treasures from the Forbidden City The Metropolitan Museum of Art. Taipei. 24-27 November and 2-4 December: Woolf Phrase / 12. Cloud Gate Dance Theatre of Taiwan www. 17. Tennis: AFP Photo 8-30 January 2011 Sydney Festival Various venues.australianballet. log in to your Marco Polo Club account at www. THe CLub 15 . 26 January 2011 Republic Day Parade New Delhi India shows off its ethnic and cultural 19-28 Maria Sharapova at the 2010 Hong Kong Tennis Classic and fun at Art.metmuseum.N. Emperor: The Palace The Australian ballet.jsp 7-13 February 2011 Sapporo Snow Festival Sapporo A winter wonderland of ice sculptures and snowy activities.N. The Hong Kong ballet.cathaypacific. 4-5 December. 17-19 December. Hong Kong 1-7 February 2011: Hong Kong Salsa Festival. culture the Sydney Festival DANCE EVENTS 18-20. www. Sydney. Sydney Have fun on the opening night when the streets become a party venue. Kaohsiung. 19. 30. Hong Kong. decorative works and architectural details from this imperial residence.N. Beijing. A discount for members of The Marco Polo Club is available on registration. / a new work by William Forsythe. Frankfurt am Portrait of the Qianlong Emperor FEBRUARY 3 February 2011 Cathay Pacific International Chinese New Year Night Parade Hong Kong Don’t miss the fun of welcoming in the Year of the 3-22 December: Peter Wright’s The Nutcracker. www. New York The Qianlong emperor ruled from 1736 to 1795 when the Qing Dynasty was at its peak. o i ce sound investment It’s not enough for speakers merely to produce impeccable Anthony Gallo Anthony Gallo claims that spherical speakers eliminate Thiel the thiel Cs3. www. www.7 is a floorstanding model with a domed 16 The club . These sculptural sound systems score high on the scales of both looks and performance. they must look good and suit your décor.anthonygallo. Qurve the Qurve e200 bespoke floor-standing speakers incorporate full-range drivers and the cabinet amplifies the bass tones for depth and volume. the Reference 3 offers 300-degree dispersion and the cast-aluminium frame houses a 10-inch woofer. the speakers are made in Kentucky with laminated hardwood housing and a rigid aluminium front. the speakers are assembled and hand finished from machine-cut craftwood and can be natural wood or painted to specified www.

Mythos the mythos st supertower is a sleek hand-polished extruded aluminium shaft mounted on a polished granite base.definitivetech. Have them delivered in Hong Kong through the Cathay Pacific Home delivery service. www. graphite or silver gloss finish in metal and glass. meridian: Cameo Photography Ltd Zikmu Parrot by S+arck the Philippe starck-designed wireless hi-fi speakers have an iPhone and iPod docking Meridian no need for cables with the meridian dsP7200 digital Active Loudspeakers as everything is housed in the cabinet. soundsticks ii is compatible with most multimedia devices. www. with a built-in Photo. which is in the collection of the museum of modern Art in new Harman Kardon Clarity of sound gets new meaning with the transparent Harman Kardon soundsticks ii system. www.meridian-audio. www. Available in The club 17 .cathaypacific.

e xpe r t adv i ce Glassy affair The shape of the glass can accentuate or dull the flavours of wine Tokyo Temptation Burgundy glass from Lucaris 18 the club By And r e A Li .

would cause the flavours of a delicate fruity wine such as sauvignon blanc to dissipate. the right wine glass can showcase the maximum potential in a wine. “The rim of the glass. The aim ultimately is to achieve a balance of flavours. saltiness. but will. red-wine glasses are broader in shape to give the fuller bodied grape varietals more surface room to oxidise. White-wine glasses are typically smaller and narrower in shape. After all. “The glass shape is very important because it affects the way we receive the aromas and flavours of the wine. His advice dispelled the myth shared by many of the city’s wine enthusiasts that all expensive red wines should be decanted and consumed out of elaborate glassware as part of an extravagant spectacle.” says Master of Wine debra Meiburg. a widely respected wine judge. releasing the aromas and opening up the rich velvety finish in wines such as cabernet sauvignon and merlot. at the same time. and therefore our perception of the wine.” says Frantz dumey. thinner and tapered.” explains deneux. the big glasses and the crystal decanter. The narrow glass provides a smaller surface area that slows the escape of bubbles and captures the subtle nuances of the grapes. they want the sommelier to work at it. Glasses are designed in such a way that you unconsciously tilt the glass at a certain angle thus directing the wine to the right part of your tongue. At the end of the day. to enable the delicate and fruity smells to funnel up to the top of the glass so the drinker can enjoy the flavours immediately. acidity and bitterness. while too straight a glass angle would hinder the unique aromas from travelling upwards. sizes and price points may baffle and intimidate buyers. “The tongue has four key senses: sweetness. experts say the consumer should not be distracted from what is most important: in choosing the right glass. This. Michelin-star chef Alain ducasse’s restaurant in Hong Kong. the style of wine you are consuming.icolas deneux. a major glassware manufacturer. President of Sales in Asia for riedel. the size and bowl shape can dictate the flow of liquid to a specific part of your tongue. Wine glassware has also been flying off store shelves as wine drinkers are increasingly demanding the best conditions in which to drink their wines. and complexity of mineral flavours of a good wine. A large bowl shape also allows the wine to swirl easily. too. recently went against the grain by advising a customer that it would be a mistake to decant an expensive bottle of Bordeaux because the 1986 vintage had been a weak one. A narrower rim and thinner glass can help direct the flow of liquid to the right part of your palette.” Fueled by the removal of wine duty in 2008. used to be trendy in France but people are beginning to understand it is not necessary all the time. “The right glass can enhance all the components from aromas to tannin. “They expect a big show. what matters most is its shape and size of the bowl. Chief Sommelier at SPOOn. also heighten the flaws of a bad wine. “When someone orders an expensive wine. Although the wide variety of wine glassware and the availability of all shapes. At the most rudimentary level. it is not about how much the wine costs. for example. but rather. often sporting a thinner rim.” says dumey. A champagne flute is taller. Hong Kong is rapidly becoming a premier wine hub with wine imports surging and auction sales reaching record levels.” riedel’s leading market position is testament to its focus on going beyond the science of glassware manufacturing. Another crucial point to note is the diameter of the rim and the thinness of the glass. each glass is developed following rounds of Bangkok Bliss chardonnay glass from Lucaris the club 19 . Too large or broad a bowl shape.

in Asia. Premium glassware. director of the independent Wine Centre. a few white and red wine glasses and a handful of flutes is all you need at home. from tasters to producers from every part of the globe. “expensive glassware does add incrementally to the pleasure.e xpe r t adv i ce wine tastings with wine professionals. made predominately of delicate lead crystal. “There is a lot of apprehension around how to do things right.” says Meiburg. Thailand’s Ocean Glass and German designer Martin Ballendat. giving feedback on how each aspect of the wine glass can optimise the potential of a wine. says deneux. provides greater transparency. “if you have the means and the luxury of space then by all means go for the whole nine yards. not a necessity. “The range can be intimidating to someone who has not grown up in a wine culture.” Simon Tam.” even a restaurant such as SPOOn uses only about five types of wine glasses.” he says. Anything more. to create crystal stemware of international quality. “it is the difference between having a Porsche with leather seats versus one with vinyl seats. it would be like a westerner participating in a Japanese tea ceremony. Though riedel is often regarded as one of the leading glassware manufacturers (the brand currently has a total of 12 lines covering various grape varietals and regions). it is a luxury. sparkling brilliance and makes beautiful sounds at toasting.” 20 the club . The variety of glassware and wine paraphernalia can indeed be overwhelming to the novice drinker particularly as glass styles tend to vary between brands. “For most people. better light refraction.” says Meiburg. other european brands such as Spiegelau and Schott Zwiesel have also launched extensive portfolios of glassware. But it is important for people to know that you don’t need to have all the right glasses before embarking on the journey of wine. Lucaris is working with expert glassware-maker Toyo-Sasaki Glass of Japan. says Master of Wine Debra Meiburg says premium glassware adds to the pleasure Etched bowls of the Spiegelau Renaissance glasses it is important not to get bogged down in the dynamics of the nitty gritty. would be for show more than practicality. But in the orbit of functionality.

chief Sommelier at SPOON. “We use an ordinary wine glass on the assumption that not everyone will have an extensive range of glassware at home. “it is natural for novice drinkers to be swept up in buying the best of everything including glasses to help them complete the experience. says Tam. who judges between six to eight wine competitions every year.” For an all-purpose classic wine glass. this type is versatile enough to pinpoint the aromatics of both red and white wines. Tam recommends a chianti glass. he believes first and foremost in the power of a good wine. “remember that glassware is only one component to getting the most out of your wine. a glass or wine glass.” says Tam.” Nicolas Deneux. which uses a limited number of wine glasses GLaSS caRE • Use a microfibre cloth to polish glasses • Wrap cloth around your fingers then rotate around the inside of the bowl • Hold the glassware firmly by the bowl. “if the wine is good. With even wine producers making their own tailored glassware. Straddling the glass shapes of Bordeaux and chardonnay. i beg to differ whether it is really necessary to have all this glassware and theatrics. similar to a chardonnay glass. Meiburg. sceptics such as Tam feel the importance placed on glassware has been taken to the extreme. Other aspects of wine service like the temperature of the wine. in a new and flourishing wine market such as Asia’s. the temptation of having all the right drinking tools can at times overshadow what is practical or immediately relevant. but that they are all the same. to ensure a fair and consistent outcome that the public can appreciate. and since we are influencing the public’s buying decision. dutyfree 22 the club . odourless environment • To rid the glass of smell.” it is important to note that glasses alone do not define the drinking experience. says judges use a generic wine glass. not the stem • Rinse the glass with cold water after use • Lipstick stains can be removed by using warm water • Use of detergent is not recommended • Store in a clean. how it is served. Please see Discover The Shop – Beyond Duty Free or you can refer to: www. While he recognises the value that glasses bring to the drinking experience. it will taste good regardless of whether it is in a cup.e xpe r t adv i ce Riedel Black Tie collection has a black stem or base She assures consumers.” she says. whether or not it is decanted are just as important. in some quarters.” indeed. it is important to use a general wine glass. that this need not be a nerve-racking endeavour. rinse first in cold water before polishing Lucaris Shanghai Soul Champagne and Bordeaux glasses are available for Home Delivery to Hong Kong residents. “Wine is still very new to people in this part of the world and it takes time to recognise quality wine.cathaypacific. “it isn’t so much a case of what glass we use in the competition that is important. however.

New Wish you were By A AR O N PE A SLE y Lo n d o n York Paris Vienna .

the Mercer Quality of Living Survey and The Economist Intelligence Unit’s (EIU) Global Liveability Report. while a city’s natural beauty may be the trade-off for hellish traffic in another. An effortless five-minute commute to the airport may be essential to some. While a brief look at either Vancou ver here? Zu r i c h Hong Kon g the club 25 Photos.Pe r s Pec t i v e Surveys that rank cities often provide a snapshot of the good life elsewhere. London: Travelpix/Taxi/Getty Images . and each comes with a unique set of challenges and charms. has gained wider use. Paris: David Noton – Taxi/Getty Images. set out to rank the world’s cities – from Vancouver to Vilnius. dynamic and ever changing. Each year. New york: Sylvain Grandadam Photographer's Choice/Getty Images. Baghdad to Boston – according to their living conditions. the concept of liveability. Vienna: Guenter Rossenbach – Corbis. a word invented to define the quality of life a city provides. Liveability and concepts of “quality of life” differ from information on standard of living in that they measure much more than just income and living costs. Zurich: Hemis/ImagineChina. Others may emphasise a high-density urban environment. but they can overlook what really draws us to where we live hat is the formula for the perfect city? Some of us may envision sustainable enclaves with plentiful green space. By their very definition cities are imperfect. In recent years. Hong Kong: Scott E Barbour – The Image Bank/Getty Images. complete with round-the-clock cultural offerings. two major reports. Necessitated by an increasingly globalised economy. One thing is certain: the concept of the perfect city is not something we’re all likely to agree on. they are used primarily by international corporations to measure the living conditions in cities where they plan to relocate staff or operations. Vancouver: Jose Fuste Raga – Corbis.

efficient transport and established economies. explained the process: “Mid-density European cities always tend to dominate.” he says. historically rich. which always feature prominently. followed by the Swiss cities Zurich and Geneva. they contain those ineffable qualities that make a city truly great.Pe r s Pec t i v e survey proves that the flow of money is a key component – Swiss cities. which has a base index score of 100. “It’s really like splitting hairs at the top end of the survey. pulsating monuments to human ambition. one of Mercer’s San Francisco-based consultants. Mercer’s survey ranked Vienna as the world’s most liveable city. “When it comes to liveability.” Mercer’s methodology ranks cities based on a pointscoring index. “When I saw that Vienna had come at the top this year. But when compiling these surveys. urban environment. have long been established centres of wealth creation. we tend to think of places such as London. and civil liberties to whether a city is prone to natural disasters or outbreaks of disease. Rebecca Powers. and this year selected Vancouver as the world’s most liveable metropolis with a mark of 98 percent. and often hard to navigate. Editor of EIU’s study. I laughed that it must have been due to the excellent quality of its symphony. But they also examine a range of factors spanning everything from the quality of a city’s medical care. explains the group’s methodology. Jon Copestake. 26 the club Vancouver and Vienna were ranked the world’s most liveable cities in two separate surveys Vancouver Vienna .” When we think of the world’s most glorified cities.” The survey ultimately issues each city with a score out of 100. Clamorous. “We have correspondents based in each city and they rate indicators that we see as influencing liveability which we vet and weight to create an overall score.” says Powers. largely due to their great health care. with cities compared to New york City. Hong Kong. political climate. for instance. we seek to assess conditions in terms of the problems a location can present to someone’s lifestyle. New york or Paris – complex. a list of criteria that encompasses 30 qualitative and quantitative factors across five categories.

” the club 27 . “While I think liveability surveys can be used as a basic index or benchmark. Madrid). she stresses the importance of small.“if we were all alike then perhaps we all would be happy living in vienna” Paris The sweet life: critics say city surveys don’t take individual tastes into account researchers don’t take into account the emotional dynamics. cutting-edge architecture (Shanghai. The Death and Life of American Cities. Grant Thatcher. navigable neighbourhoods.” says Powers. these indices value urban environments that are highly efficient. Rio). danger. let’s face it. we all love to moan about the weather. and while she promoted preservation she espoused that cities should retain their historic character. financially robust and easy to navigate. that quintessentially Swiss of traits. “but we are here to calibrate the real quantifiable factors that influence a place.” Indeed. we would probably have a completely different list. They don’t tend to note spectacular natural settings (sorry. In her book. the intangible elements that separate great cities from merely good ones. will never be perceived as sexy. neither tends to lead the way when it comes to shaping the spirit of the times. the founder and Editor-in-Chief of Luxe City Guides. efficiency. But is it possible they can be just a bit unexciting? After all. “If this was a measure of hipness. By contrast. “If we were all alike then perhaps we all would be happy living in Vienna – as it is some of us need adventure. dirt. challenges and. you’re out of luck) or round-the-clock nightlife (too bad.” he says. faults and all. while both Vienna and Vancouver are undoubtedly pleasant places to live. believes quality-of-life studies should be viewed with just a little scepticism. they always fail to take into account the most important factor of the human condition – individuality. One wonders what the late urbanist Jane Jacobs would have made of liveability surveys.

We cannot capture a buzz that a city gives off and in many cases the big-city buzz or vibrancy is caused by the ’edge’ a city has. we are seeing a rapidly changing political climate with incidents of terrorism and political unrest. believes true liveability is all in the mix. “In some parts of the world. In some cases. is a pretty subjective factor. for instance. Managing Director Research Services. Lifestyle magazine Monocle launched its “Quality of Life” survey in 2007 and other liveability survey findings often appear in the media. liveability surveys have gained broader appeal. which can imply shortfalls in liveability.” Ed Brea. Fitch Solutions. “We are finding that factors can change incredibly swiftly. says these types of intelligence tools are becoming more important as global corporations move operations into lesser-known capitals. the General Manager of the Shangri-La Hotel Vancouver.” he says.Pe r s Pec t i v e EIU’s Copestake says such subjectivity has no place in the reviews. We need to New York monitor these factors constantly. who regularly relocates staff. for instance. “The city is a very clean and green urban place that is culturally and ethnically diverse.” Neither survey sees large fluctuations from year to year. “Vancouver is pretty hard to beat. Neil Smith.” says Smith. Africa and parts of Asia. “Boredom. however. but both are keeping an eye on the developing world as companies become more eager to move into those markets. “I’m often called by radio stations in the US demanding .” In recent years. who has lived all over the world. It has a very creative side and the sushi is to die for! The public transport system works [and there are] lots of bike lanes for people like me who do not drive. a lot can change in a year.

Governments have also become more interested. monitoring their performance and comparing it to other capitals. Vancouver: Photolibrary. deciding what you’re willing to forgo.New York and hong Kong have a vibrancy that’s hard to beat Hong Kong to know why the cities didn’t come out top. such as hong Kong. says many of her clients study the surveys. language barriers or notable cultural challenges are taken into account. But don’t say that to Luxe City Guide’s Thatcher. “Sometimes the reports are used to debunk myths about certain areas or to understand where the risk or hardship lies and to what degree. Hong Kong dining: Laurie Noble – The Image Bank/ Getty Images. but experts suggest that hardship allowances in some cities. New york: Rick Shupper – Ambient Images. “Our corporate clients who tend to be interested in the global liveability surveys are those companies who are either opening. Hong Kong and Bangkok. companies pay a premium – often an additional five percent or more of an employee’s base salary – to staff that relocate to cities where living conditions are considered difficult.” says Thatcher. or passionate residents of other capitals that fail to impress liveability researchers. “Having lived in New york. Donna DiGiovanni. liveability indices are grounded in quite the opposite – the idea of hardship. what you need.” says Mercer’s Powers. operations in regions commonly associated with risk or hardship. may be becoming less frequent as companies shift their focus towards less expensive local hires. I can safely say that variety is very definitely the spice of life.” Photos. Director of Global Mobility Services for crown Relocations. the club 29 . as Swiss writer and theorist Alain De Botton has suggested. a company that helps companies relocate employees. Paris. Vienna: Gerald Haenel – Laif/ImagineChina Tough moVes Rather than pinpointing the most alluring cities for potential expatriates. As urban centres have moved towards private enterprise. Hong Kong at night: Annie Griffiths Belt – Corbis. many governments are now using these surveys to encourage private investment. croissants and coffee: TPG images. “It’s all about deciding what you want. a truly liveable city is like a well-designed piece of furniture: functional. rather simple and perhaps just a little unexciting.” she says. Perhaps. if anything. or considering opening. and then getting off your butt to make it happen.“ In cases where hardship is assessed. Previous pages.

Explore the gardens of the Meiji Shrine .

a part of the Roppongi Hills complex that has so impressively changed the skyline in this part of the city. The Mori Building City Air Services Eurocopter takes a mere 15 minutes – compared to one hour. Check out the beautifully appointed rooms and the incredible views across Tokyo. by surface transport – and there is no more impressive way to get a first glimpse of Tokyo. the service includes a limousine transfer to the nearby to prepare for the indulgences that lie ahead.24 h o u r S 24 Tokyo HOURS Photo. The seats are leather and cabin walls bear the brand’s signature Toile H fabric. Grand Hyatt Tokyo. also used on its leather goods. on a good day. particularly as the lights begin to flicker on. The monks of Seishoji Temple – the club 31 . And that’s just a taste of what the city has to offer… 3pm Start in Style as soon as you touch down. Meiji Shrine Gardens: Martin Hladik – Dorling Kindersley/Getty Images By Jul IAN RyAll Sample sushi at the fish market. shop for traditional works of art. the mind and spirit must be in harmony. Instead of struggling onto a train or bus into Tokyo – buses and taxis are prone to the traffic jams that clog the roads into the city from Narita International Airport – hop aboard a Hermèsbranded chopper as soon as you clear customs for the transfer. 4pm 3:30pm after landing. sip some superb sake and drift away on a boat cruise.

7pm one of the most famous prints by ukiyo-e artist utagawa Hiroshige depicted Tokyo’s famous yakatabune – which literally means “roof-shaped party boat” – beneath a summer fireworks display on the Sumida River more than 200 years ago. as well as passing beneath modern landmarks. fare of seafood and vegetable tempura deep-fried in sesame seed oil. A two-hour cruise from the Asashio Pier incorporates an eight-course meal of seasonal dishes including the traditional yakatabune 10pm on the Southern fringes of Ginza.24 h o u r S 5:30pm loverS of Japanese art can take home some of the ukiyo-e woodblock prints on display at one of the most famous galleries in the traditional printing quarter of Jimbocho. how to breathe deeply and slowly and. Grand Hyatt Tokyo: Courtesy of Hyatt Hotels Woodblock prints depict a bygone era a walled compound that is an oasis of tranquility in the heart of this frantic city – teach those in search of zen enlightenment the most appropriate posture. such as Tokyo’s Rainbow Bridge. in time. Mita Arts Gallery has dealt in ukiyo-e since the early 1960s and its stock ranges from very affordable to museum-quality pieces. where it meets the more proletarian Shimbashi district. is a street dedicated solely to bars and restaurants. samurai and kabuki actors – from a bygone era. Tokyo residents still have the urge to escape the city and the party boats continue to ply the rivers and city canals. . Woodblock prints : Courtesy of Mita Arts Gallery. how to settle the mind. Eat as the lights of Tokyo float by and geisha in full regalia perform musical numbers and act out short dramas. yakatabune Harumiya has been in the party-boat business for 60 years and operates five vessels that depart from different piers around the city. Pictures of the “floating world” are a uniquely Japanese art form that depict the traditions and lives of people – geisha. Time for some therapy of a different kind. The rest of us can usually manage about 20 minutes before the mind wanders and the back begins to ache. Down a short flight of steps at the Shimbashi 32 the club Photos. Monks can hold their pose and empty their minds for hours on end.

Sake tray: Jeffrey Coolidge – Iconica/Getty Images Try sake or shochu flavoured with black sugar or yuzu citrus 5am While the rest of the city still slumbers. the club 33 . a small and dimly lit place that really knows its sake and shochu. Telephone: +81 3 3270 8950 Fax: +81 3 3270 8886 E-mail: motyo-reservations@mohg. along with some of the simple black-sugar or potato-based shochus. Tokyo in a Deluxe Room at the Best Available Rate between 16 November 2010 and 15 February 2011. but it’s still a remarkable place to witness in action. from the southern islands of Okinawa. For anyone who is unsure of Japanese spirits. put yourself in the hands of the barman. Tsukiji’s popularity with visitors to Tokyo has forced the operators to limit numbers. is always a good bet. It’s tangy. But don’t have too many as tomorrow starts very early. The dry Kaishun is from Shimane Prefecture and comes in a glass containing a generous cube of ice. or late check-out at 4pm • Complimentary Internet access • Welcome amenity (refreshment served upon arrival) • Double Asia Miles For reservations. A personal favourite is the sake made from the yuzu citrus fruit from Saitama Prefecture. Awamori. please contact Mandarin Oriental. with a taste that lingers. take a taxi (because the subway is not running yet) to the largest wholesale fish market in the world. served cloudy with the pith settling in the glass. and 1 January 2011 apply. and you’ll enjoy a range of exciting benefits. Tokyo Reservations and quote your Marco Polo Club membership number. including: • Complimentary upgrade to the next room category at time of reservation • Choice of early check-in from 11am. The décor features dark panelling and the deep red-brown counter is hewn from a 500-year-old Grand Hyatt Tokyo in Roppongi Hills Photo. terms and conditions blackout dates from 23 to 25 and 31 December 2010. The drinks are served in cut-glass tumblers and flutes and the staff are immaculately turned R T n E R O f f E R end of the street is the Ginza Saka Bar. Enjoy exciting benefits at Mandarin Oriental. Tokyo Book and stay at Mandarin Oriental.

24 h o u r S Cranes lift tuna carcasses caught in the waters off Mexico or the southern Pacific from the vessels’ holds. there is no better way to prepare for the day ahead than with a sushi breakfast. much of the pathway passes beneath cherry trees in full bloom. Ginza: Everett Kennedy Brown – epa/Corbis into a backpack and hit the streets. Imperial Palace: Franck Guiziou – Hemis/IC. Tokyo JuSt a couple of blocks east of the palace moat. don’t get comfy yet. within the Tsukiji complex. Sushi Daiwa. Tsukiji – the Metropolitan Wholesale Central Market – covers 23 hectares on the bay. More than 90 percent of the fish served in Tokyo restaurants and nearby Kanto region passes through this market. Authorities recently constructed changing and showering facilities along the route.000 tonnes of sea products. crab and other delicacies to locals and tourists alike. the grounds of the palace take on the colours of the season. is a local favourite. People have been using the five-kilometre path that circumnavigates the Imperial Palace as a jogging track for years. squid and dozens of varieties of seaweed. 7:30am With the SubWay now running. Elsewhere on the dock. use the time it takes to return to the hotel to digest breakfast. sea urchins. handling 700. stevedores unload crates of hamachi (yellowtail) hirame (flounder) or kampachi (greater amberjack) that seem to smoke as the ice hits the warmer air. Smaller vessels that have plied waters much closer to Japan return with an array of shellfish. vegetables and fruit a year. 9:30am In good hands at Mandarin Oriental. worth about JPy600 billion (HKD56 billion). past the imposing new 34 the club . salmon. Portions here seem more generous than other sushi restaurants in the city and the two white-clad chefs behind the counter hand over a steady stream of tuna. in autumn. 6:30am after Watching all that fish being hauled around. so freshen up after your jog before you go shopping. But in the suite. In spring. Slip those running shoes Photos.

a crystalline material made by baking oak branches at up to 800 degrees Celsius for as long as five days. with window displays of kimono. toys. Tenshodo has been associated with Ginza for 130 years and the statue of a naked angel pulling back a miniature bow is a local landmark. blackout dates apply from 31 December 2010 to 2 January 2011. while the duck dumpling with grated daikon radish. Attention to detail. wrapped in soba and seaweed. The store has an array of beautiful timepieces on display – incorporating the newest technology with time-honoured design values – with the watches constructed by the company’s mastercraftsmen. lacquerware bowls and the food is exquisite. Steamed Spanish mackerel is served in season. Deluxe Bay View. until terms and conditions 1. But try to buy something uniquely Japanese. Ginza Tanagokoro sells charcoal products called binchotan. Another favourite is angler fish liver with ponzu sauce or the yellowtail teriyaki and vinegared lotus root. quote your Marco Polo Club membership number and promotion code “MPO” when making your reservation.slty@shangri-la. Premier Room • late check-out until 3pm • Complimentary afternoon tea for 2 at The lobby lounge To enjoy this offer. the restaurant’s dishes aim to please all the senses. sesame tofu and yuzu served in a clear broth is a must. an early lunch will be required. Charcoal is used to absorb odours in the air to help purify a room. and present your membership card upon check-in.Jog around the Imperial palace edifice of The Peninsula Tokyo. The world’s major luxury brands grace the streets of Ginza the club 35 . traditional washi paper. from the setting to presentation. 11:30am after Such an early breakfast. members of The Marco Polo Club who stay at Shangri-la Hotel Tokyo at the Best Available Rate for two consecutive nights will enjoy a range of benefits. lacquerware items or works of calligraphy art in black ink. pa R T n E R O f f E R Enjoy a complimentary room upgrade and more at Shangri-La Hotel Tokyo From 16 November 2010 to 15 February 2011. 2. is Ginza. These streets boast flagship stores of major international luxury brands. Designed to reflect the grace of the 267 years of the Edo era. Traditional stores and art galleries line many of Ginza’s backstreets. In business for 97 years. the room rate is subject to a 10% service charge. Telephone: +813 6739 7878 (Hotel Reservations) +852 2331 6688 (Worldwide Reservation Center) Fax: +813 6739 7879 Email: reservation. including: • Complimentary upgrade to the next room category at time of booking for Deluxe. 5% government tax and accommodation tax. Genyadana Hamadaya is a chic ryotei restaurant in Tokyo’s Nihonbashi-Ningyocho district named after a geisha house. It was awarded two Michelin stars in the latest edition of the food-lovers’ bible.

Japanese stationery makes a great souvenir Spa Mandarin Oriental Tokyo Spa +81 3 3270 8300 Kaikaya +81 3 3770 0878 SHOp Ginza Tanagokoro +81 3 3538 6555 InfORMaTIOn Weekender Japan www.24 h o u r S 1pm there iS JuSt time to make one more shopping stop for lacquerware at the nearby Iwai Tsuzura Few of the artisans of these works of functioning art remain today – just two in english/ traditional/2004/06/english.html Ito-ya +81 3 3561 8311 (ginza) fresh octopus at Tsukiji Market .jp if you’re feeling TRaVEL Mori Building City air Services +81 3 3568 2474 www. Envelope: Getty Images Ginza Saka Bar +81 3 6228 5108 Maruyama nori Tsukiji Market english/guide/ Imperial palace http://sankan.or.go.senso-ji.tanagokoro.tsukiji-market. The Spa at the Mandarin tokyo/spa Oedo Onsen Monogatari +31 3 5500 1126 (no English) Iwai Tsuzura +81 3 3668 6464 english VISIT Hakone www. rejuvenate both mind and body. chuo-ku +81 3 3547 6807 Sushi Kaiseki nogawa +81 3 6228 4407 Drift away as the therapists get to work on those aching muscles.mandarinoriental.harumiya.kappabashi.kaikaya. Octopus: Wendy Connett – Robert Harding/Imagery World/Getty Images.html Tokyo Tower Baskets wrapped in layers of rice paper.aspx EaT & DRInK Genyadana Hamadaya +81 3 3661 5940 2pm Senso-ji Temple (no English) Sushi Daiwa tsukiji Market.gnavi.mita-arts.ginza-tenshodo. php?language=en Tenshodo Watches +81 3 3562 0023 (ginza) The peninsula Tokyo +81 3 6270 2888 www.html Kappabashi www.html Seishoji (Meditation lessons) +81 3 3431 3733 www5.or.grand.ooedoonsen. html Mita arts Gallery +81 3 3294 4554 Yakatabune Harumiya +81 3 3644 1344 www. coated with a base of persimmon and tannin and with a further covering of cashew lacquer used to be in great demand for storing kimono. part 6 36 the club Photos. Tokyo has windows that look out over the city from the 37th Meiji Jingu www. 5-2-1 default. STaY Grand Hyatt Tokyo +81 3 4333 1234 www.or.

Its nori is used at famous sushi restaurants and the shop also has very nice Japanese tea and tea sweets as well as tea tastings. cards (fold-out and pop-up ones in particular). Along this street you can find souvenirs. large red lanterns mark the Kaminarimon Gate.Sumiyo Hosokawa Cathay Pacific Marketing Communications Manager Japan Seafood of all sorts is served widely in Japan and the famous Tsukiji Market is one of my favourite places. sweets and freshly made delicious rice crackers. in Ginza. where the restaurant equipment shops sell pots. Many of them allow visitors to use the onsen at a reasonable price without staying in the ryokan. Also in Asakusa is Senso-ji. Take in the expanse of the city from Tokyo Tower Photo. near Asakusa. Hakone is a popular spot for overnight stays in the many onsen ryokans. Keen cooks should head to Kappabashi. the enormous forest and Shinto shrine created some 90 years ago. utensils. serves fine Japanese kaiseki cuisine with fresh sushi from Tsukiji. I usually buy dried seaweed at Maruyama Nori. This refuge from the urban crush has natural forest. the entrance to Nakamise Street which leads to the temple. Tange. fake food samples. prepared in a fusion of Eastern and Western cuisines. china. one of the great landmarks that is visible day and night. a light cotton kimono. visited by some 30 million people a year. beautiful gardens and elegant traditional shrine buildings. visit the 333-metre-high Tokyo Tower. Shibuya and Harajuku are dense areas teeming with young people and packed with shops. To get an idea of the expanse of Tokyo. In stark contrast nearby is Meiji Jingu. Bathing in an onsen in natural hot spring water is a quintessential Japanese experience. napkins and related items at reasonable prices. the oldest temple in Tokyo. visitors can see gardens and the volcanic landscape of Fuji-Hakone-Izu National Park. Kaikaya restaurant in Shibuya serves fresh seafood sourced by the owner and chef. lights and video screens. Apart from lake Ashi and views of Mount Fuji. But you can eat high-quality seafood in many places in Tokyo. brushes and painting equipment. Oedo Onsen Monogatari is located in the popular Tokyo waterfront area of Odaiba. Sushi Nogawa. Japanese stationery stores are a revelation and Ito-ya is the shop of shops with nine floors of paper. Tokyo Tower: ultra F/Image Bank/Getty Images the club 37 . An Edo-period street has been created to add to the atmosphere and you can spend a full day here and even book into a hotel. to wear and choose an onsen from those on offer. When you check in you will receive a yukata.

Success storeys by sh o ba nar ayan ph otos na m a s b h ojani Bengaluru’s beautiful heritage buildings have escaped the wrecking ball thanks to some passionate preservationists .

no major structural changes were allowed and several architectural features could not be touched: the heritage flooring. and then bought it after World War ii. a british man. Even financially. several years into the exercise. “after my parents passed.t r av e l R Reflected glory: The National Gallery of Modern Art in Bengaluru ishad minocher calls himself a hospitality consultant. he happens to live in one: a 175-year-old gem situated in the centre of bengaluru on Cunningham road. minocher says that the family are happy with their decision. they decided to do the same with their home with an iron-clad contract for all prospective tenants. fine wine. “my grandfather rented it from the original owner. good food and heritage buildings. and the burma-teak false ceiling all had to be handled with care by the tenants. it is a great way to keep these old structures going. malaysia and thailand. lime plaster. Even fixtures such as air-conditioning units had to be inserted tastefully and not “be stuck here and there so that they are an eyesore”. mud-brick walls. Called hatworks boulevard. “We have the home to enjoy and leave for future generations.” says minocher. but he is really an epicurean who enjoys single malts. says minocher.” he says. the half-hectare property has been converted into a series of high-end boutiques and retail outlets.” minocher and his wife travelled all over asia and saw Chinese shop-houses being used as retail outlets in singapore. live at the back with their two daughters. anna. heritage preservation in bengaluru. we five siblings were left with a choice: should we give it to real-estate developers who would tear it down and construct a high-rise in its place or figure out another way? We chose the other way. curlicues above the entrance arch reflecting the family’s parsi heritage. formerly known as the club 39 . the rents we are getting [are] commensurate with the rentals in the area. minocher and his wife.

in which “Lt. has finally come to the fore thanks to an unusual confluence of visionary architects. the mudaliars are an indian “forwardcaste” community with extensive land holdings in bengaluru. in one case. WLs Churchill” was one of the 17 defaulters. chose what architects call “adaptive reuse” and transformed their homes into offices. a few homeowners. and had outstanding dues at the beautifully preserved bangalore Club. Winston Churchill served as a young army officer in bengaluru in 1896. this resolutely modern city. shops and. the nGma building used to be the home of raja manickavelu mudaliar. in the 1980s. many sold to real-estate developers who tore down old bungalows and built high-rise buildings in their place. homeowners who lived in old bungalows with their characteristic monkeytop windows and slanting tiled roofs were forced to make a choice. has large tracts of army land and several buildings from the colonial era. civic activists and a young workforce that has become wealthy due to the software boom. as the land they lived on became more expensive. the national Gallery of modern art (nGma). however.t r av e l Hatworks Boulevard was transformed from a bungalow to an up-market shopping precinct bangalore. founded in 1868 by a cadre of british officers. When prince Charles visited bengaluru a few years ago and saw an entry in the displayed ledger book of the club from june 1899. he offered to settle the dues on Churchill’s behalf but the club refused. this city of five million people started to expand and thrive thanks to a nascent software industry. known more for its call centres and it companies. they came from neighbouring tamilnadu during the colonial era to service the british army cantonments with leather and 40 the club .

pA R T N e R o f f e R The Burmateak ceilings in Hatworks Boulevard were preserved (above) Receive a 20% discount on selected Avis services in India From 16 november 2010 to 15 February 2011. 3. arun pai talks about them as he takes tourists and locals on the Victorian bangalore Walk that he conducts every weekend (bangalore Walks. in the 1960s. the discount is applicable on all bookings made online or through the call centre. 2. used to live in this sprawling mansion on palace road. Standard Avis rental terms and conditions apply. the state Anokhi in RainTree sells quality traditional Indian crafts please quote your avis Worldwide Discount number when making a reservation and present your marco polo Club membership card at the avis rental the patriarch. the Velu family remains prominent and one of their homes is now a luxury boutique called raintree. members of the marco polo Club who purchase chauffeur drive services or airport transfers with avis in india will receive a 20% discount on super value rates. raja manickavelu. minocher remembers stories from his mother who used to visit the mansion for dinner parties served with the family’s exquisite gold dinner-set. the club 41 .avis.bangalorewalks. Enjoy a Luxury sedan airport transfer in bengaluru (bangalore) from only hKD350! oil goods – they could touch leather while their brahmin counterparts couldn’t – and never left. Airport transfer and chauffeur drive services less than 4 hours are not eligible to earn Asia Miles. their main home is now the national Gallery of modern art. • • • • Green: K305400 silver: K305500 Gold: K305600 Diamond: K305700 Telephone: +852 2882 2927 (Hong Kong) +91 11 23890707(India) Website: www. two of the nicest homes on mahatma Gandhi road (mG road) in bengaluru are still owned by people in the mudaliar terms and conditions 1.

“maybe we have too much of history in india and therefore very little respect for it. naresh shepherded the controversial and complicated project through to completion in 2009 when the gallery was finally open to the public. and there is a difference. there is no appreciation of the physicality of buildings. in 2000. a team of Central Library of Karnataka State in Cubbon park (left) Gulmohat tree photo: t. the city wanted to tear down the fireengine red attara Kacheri landmark building. they invited the prominent English conservation architect 42 the club sir bernard Feilden. not history. but such public heritage buildings are rare in bengaluru. naresh has developed his passion for restoration and become a spokesperson for the city’s architectural heritage. his father. since that landmark project. the taj mahal and the Great Wall of China.” recently.” naresh says. a crumbling colonial mansion and painstaking restoration. “historical buildings are seen as old-fashioned and out of date. was involved in bengaluru’s first heritage preservation project. naresh says his father and his colleagues did something rather smart. there has been some cause for hope. “Feilden persuaded them to let the building stay. to come in and speak to the city officials.” says naresh. the architect who won the project was narasimhan naresh. the attara Kacheri building houses the Karnataka high Court. no understanding that unless these buildings are preserved the history of the city and the continuation of its fabric is lost. decided to house indian art there. india’s old buildings are seen as archeology. thankfully. “it was a great victory for the conservation lobby in those days. who had advised on the restoring of british cathedrals. prabhakar – the hindu photo archives . architectural firms were invited to bid for the complex project involving landscaped gardens.L. also an architect.t r av e l government acquired the mansion and.” today.

Carrying the argument further. they could try to incorporate architectural elements such as cross ventilation and lattice work that are more suited to a tropical climate instead of building glass-and-steel towers that use more energy and electricity. Krishna.” says naresh. Designed by German horticulturist Gustav Krumbiegel under the auspices of the mysore maharajah.” the good news for bengaluru is that a dedicated band of naturalists. “the largest landowner in bengaluru is the government and.” the club 43 . ashwin mahesh. its traditional and scenic neighbourhoods such as malleshwaram and basavangudi. “the real challenge is to educate people that old buildings are not bad buildings and they just need some tLC [tender loving care].b. thanks to poor governmental policy.RainTree houses luxury boutiques The flame-red gulmohar tree (Delonix regia). jacaranda. laburnum and flaming red gulmohar. both parks have a profusion of flowering trees such as the bright yellow tabebuia. and its parks. bausch and Carrefour “could use native trees which would not only grow quickly and flourish in bengaluru’s climate but also reduce their landscaping costs as well. and civic planners are making a concerted effort to not only influence the government but also gain public support. these serially flowering trees scent bengaluru’s boulevards. the government’s heritage cell will look to preserve not just old buildings but also bengaluru’s lakes. popular spots for windsurfers. bengaluru is one of india’s few cities that has large lakes such as Ulsoor and hesaraghatta. we are losing a large number of old trees to road widening and other work.” says Krishna. Lalbagh and Cubbon park are bengaluru’s two large green spaces. Krishna. they have been pushing for better conservation and restoration of the city’s heritage. says that one-third of the tree cover that earned bengaluru its title of “Garden City” has disappeared in the past three years. architects. Krishna believes multinationals should get involved in preserving bengaluru’s green heritage. a city-wide train system called the bangalore metro rail is being built and naturalists are angry about the number of trees that have been cut to accommodate trains and stations. if implemented. such a move would be lauded by naturalists and ornithologists such as m. “We need to come up with a way to make them relevant to modern use. he believes that companies such as ibm. natural heritage and cultural heritage. says the state government has announced the establishment of a “heritage cell” within the municipal corporation that would look into three areas: built heritage. millingtonia. who also was involved in bengaluru’s urban lakes conservation plan. a professor at the indian institute of management (iim) and a member of abiDe. also known as the poinciana or flamboyant tree locals has been working together with bengaluru’s government on what has come to be known as abiDe (agenda for bengalore infrastructure and Development task Force). mostly to make way for development.

the cleanly generated power from a “run-of-river” hydropower station in Guangdong creates carbon credits to help offset emissions from air travel ph otos By dav i d G .Using the natural flow and elevation drop of a river. m ci n t y r e Natural wonder Green living: Crop yields have increased for farmers such as Liao Mei Lan .

Weave through the narrow streets of the town.757 tonnes of CO₂ a year – the amount of CO₂ that would be produced if the power station had been coal-fired. Janice says that Cathay Pacific and Dragonair had been looking for a project in Guangdong that would contribute to better air quality in Hong Kong and the Lankou project had the added benefit of being a water source for the territory. FLY greener has eight renewable energy projects in Mainland China that are either under the Clean Development Mechanism (CDM) or the Voluntary Carbon Standard scheme (VCS). such as this. explains that by choosing to FLY greener. The government recommended that the developer work with KOE Environment Consultancy Inc. population about 10. such as the Lankou hydropower station. The 26MW Lankou hydropower project provides average emissions reductions of 69.000.inside cx H ong Kong. when the project was underway. green vegetables and rice. In 2005-6. It’s a four-hour drive to Lankou and the Meihe Expressway snakes alongside the Dongjiang River. She says CDM projects must be in developing countries and qualify as “additional” – they could only be established with support from carbon funds. which are used to certify carbon credits. in Guangdong Province. It is an important contributor to Cathay Pacific and Dragonair’s FLY greener programme. The project cost RMB430 million (about HKD500 million) and an estimated RMB6 million in carbon credits comes back The Lankou hydropower project provides carbon offsets for Cathay Pacific and Dragonair’s FLY greener programme the club 45 . cross a narrow bridge above plots of carrots. in which passengers help offset their flight’s emissions by using cash or Asia Miles to contribute towards green projects. has transformed the lives of many local residents but the effect of the cleanly generated energy and its associated carbon offsets ripple much further. This is the first Guangdong-based project to provide carbon offsets for the FLY greener programme and is an important way of reducing our carbon footprint. Miao Shou Liang. spring onions. which helped prepare the documentation to comply with the CDM requirements. daikon. has vital links with the town of Lankou. and follow the raised concrete road that leads to a project across the Dongjiang. came from the Lankou area. Janice Lao. The owner of the development company. CO₂ generated from flights is reduced elsewhere. an eastern tributary of the Pearl River and the source of an estimated 70 percent of Hong Kong’s water supply.000 and was plagued by an irregular power supply. population seven million. a hydropower station and its related infrastructure. This project. Cathay Pacific Environmental Manager. which has a population of about 60. the developer faced funding difficulties and went to the Chinese government for assistance.

com. Fan Fo Heng only had random work before he started helping on the construction site. and then by travel class advantages include employment. Zeng Su Mei is one of the data recorders and along with her colleagues rotates eight-hour shifts around the clock. offsets are completed a survey that focused on determined according to actual the impact on the local economy and mileage flown. He explains that the higher water level and the more reliable electricity supply increased job opportunities.dragonair. For businesses and invited to meetings to voice objections www.cathaypacific. 46 the club Some 1. The results showed 92 ticipating in the corporate Offset percent supported the project and the Programme. In May 2007.800 jobs were created during construction and the finished project provides 50 full-time positions. they are calculated rest were neutral. The first generator supplied electricity in August 2007 You can calculate your own and by May 2008. 47 people vidual passengers.” says Janice. “Cathay Pacific and Dragonair voluntary offsets contribute to the continuation of the project. based on three flight categories: These projects must demonstrate • short-haul (1-3 hours) • medium-haul (3-6 hours) community benefits and.inside cx “carbon offset income made the project viable” to the project owner each year in addition to the sale of some 80. On the wall behind them they plot a graph that shows the power output. along with sales of electricity to the China Southern Power Grid. the variations caused by the different volumes of water that drive the turbines. For indiand concerns.000 MWh per year to the China Southern Power Grid. Just off the giant turbine hall four workers sit before a bank of computer screens and closed-circuit TV monitors and every hour they log the power that has been generated. and cleaner air from the • business displacement of renewable energy over • First coal for powering the local grid. He is now head of security and his wife works as a chef. The water level of the Dongjiang is raised about four metres and the construction . all three turbines carbon emissions by clicking were generating power. and younger people were staying in Lankou with their families rather than seeking work elsewhere. Zeng was trained for three months and sat exams before she qualified for the position. The run-of-river construction relies on the natural flow of the waterway to generate power. Xie Bai Fu had fixed cars before he underwent three months training and exams to become a hydro-plant mechanic. “Carbon offset income made the project viable. A consultation on the FlY greener icon process involved stakeholders within on the cathay Pacific and five kilometres of the project who were Dragonair home pages at www. apart from pro• long-haul (6+ hours) viding a reliable regional electricity supply. training • economy and education.” The Environmental Impact Assessment was approved at the end of 2005 and construction work started se e h ow You C an Make a DiFFerenCe in January 2006.

the flat. the area has one of the coldest climates in Asia with howling Siberian gales common in winter and temperatures reaching -30 degrees celsius. Mr Fang. The level is now higher and the new road has made it easier to get in and out of his property. stand on top of the only hills in Mulan county to harness the strong regional wind speeds. Consistent water supply enhances the local living standards. As a result of the reliable power supply.5 kilograms. raised concrete road from Lankou to the project site. Operations and maintenance are carried out by locals who were trained by the wind-turbine manufacturer and grid connection companies.000 tonnes of cO₂. the wind farm generates approximately 25 GWh of electricity each year using wind power as a renewable energy source. The trickle-down effects of the project touch the lives of people from Lankou to Hong Kong but are spread even wider by the FLY greener programme. One of the major project costs was the construction of a six-kilometre long. is the Mulan wind farm. Farming has not changed greatly – the main crop is two harvests of rice a year and vegetables – but those harvests are more certain and not as subject to flooding. winDs oF ChanGe Another carbon offset programme. located 170km north-east of harbin in heilongjiang. the most northern province of Mainland china. the soil is more fertile and produce has increased. About 20 new jobs have been created by the project. says the wind farm had benefited many people in the local area. developed by carbon Resource Management. each 50 metres tall. However it has also been one of the most valued assets as it provides an all-weather route for farmers and workers. Dai Zi Chang is a fisherman who sets his nets each morning and night.The project gives farmer Xie Jian heng (left) better access to water staff monitor data at the hydropower station 24 hours a day (far left) has 14 sections with gates that can be lowered and raised depending on the flow of the river. He buys fingerlings for his farm but the project owner has spent RMB50. Farmer Xie Jian Heng says his rice yield before and after were similar but previously the water level had been low and it was difficult to get water. Flood mitigation is another result with the flood incidence reduced from one every one to two years to every five years. factories are developed and roads built. or “fish grass” that he cuts from the riverbanks. Fish farmer Liu Guo Hong raises four types of fish that he feeds with yu cao.5 kilograms but now regularly catches ones up to 2. a RMB2 billion glass factory is planned to be built in 2011. He used to catch fish that were only 1. Trading along the Dongjiang has increased because bigger boats can use the river. Consequently. the manager of Mulan. the 20 wind turbines. harsh landscape is dotted with poor rural villages where locals farm corn to make a living.000 annually on restocking the river with fish. As the water level is higher he can deliver the fresh fish by boat to Heyuan. the government gets more tax income and can make more contributions to the region. mostly filled by local workers. The downriver area benefits as the project can release water during dry seasons. six-metre wide. One of the advantages of run-of-river projects is that large areas are not inundated by the water storage and this minimises the impact on surrounding communities and ecology. the club 47 . Other farmers say that because the water level is higher. the average annual emission reduction achieved from 2005 to 2009 was 25.

Complimentary parking is available at both racecourses. The Wing. The Web Marketing Association recently honoured Asia Miles iShop with an award for Oustanding Achievement in Web Development in the category of Shopping Standard of Excellence. Haneda Airport: Tomohiro Ohsumi – Bloomberg via Getty Images. at Happy Valley and Sha Tin racecourses – where you’ll be right on top of the action! Reserve your seats now to enjoy a sumptuous international buffet and watch the exhilarating races. The twicedaily service will make Tokyo an even more popular destination and provide members with greater flexibility for travel between Hong Kong and Japan. 2010. 48 the club Asia Miles has been named Best Frequent Flyer Programme at the Business Traveller Asia-Pacific Travel Awards for the sixth consecutive year. Cathay Pacific Director Sales and Marketing Rupert Hogg accepts the Asia Miles award Departure lobby of the new Haneda terminal The Wing hospitality box at Sha Tin racecourse Best Frequent Flyer award – again Thrills and action from Cathay Pacific’s racetrack hospitality boxes Enjoy an incredible view of the racetrack from Cathay Pacific’s hospitality boxes. and recognise travel and hospitality providers who have made frequent travellers’ journeys seamless and productive. For reservations or to find out more.7 million members worldwide. The Business Traveller Asia-Pacific Travel Awards are one of the industry’s most prestigious regional events. log in to your Marco Polo Club account at or contact The Wing Reservation Hotline on +852 2837 5000. The award recognises the effort to provide the best products and services to its 3. Toronto: Getty Images .cathaypacific. Photos. subject to availability upon booking.C X N E WS Cathay Pacific launches new Haneda services Cathay Pacific began operating flights to Tokyo’s Haneda Airport on 31 October.

cathaypacific. Regis® Hotels & Resorts • The Luxury Collection® • Le Méridien • W Hotels® • Westin Hotels & Resorts® Swire Hotels the Peninsula Hotels CaR Rental avis Hertz lIfeStyle Blt Steak Ming Court. Langham Place. the kits feature the latest amenity bags exclusively designed and handmade by the finest artisans in Asia from Ipa-Nima. keeping skin refreshed and revitalised during and after the flight. The kits are packed with skincare products specially selected from another leading Italian brand. Advance reservation is required. please visit www. Offer cannot be used in conjunction with any other promotional offer or membership benefit. prices quoted are subject to change without prior notice. Peak season surcharges apply. Acca Kappa. two more flights will be added to Auckland. making a total of 12 flights per week. a world-class fashion brand established in Hanoi in 1997. Toronto is served with 12 flights per week and a daily flight is added to Osaka. From 27 November. the club 49 . Paris will be served with 11 flights per week from 11 December. Hong Kong Cathay Holidays limited CHI. including Ermenegildo Zegna. For the ladies. Langham Place.Bags of style Cathay Pacific is pleased to present a new line of travel kits for First Class passengers in collaboration with some of the world’s most prestigious or www. Dragonair resumed a direct daily service to Fukuoka in Japan on 31 October. and three more flights are added to Perth from 16 November. elegant pouches are filled with products made from the highest quality plant-based ingredient as well as nonbotanical elements from Australian brand Aēsop. Rooms and offers are subject to availability.dragonair.cathaypacific. The renowned Italian men’s fashion brand designed the understated yet stylish men’s amenity bag exclusively for Cathay Pacific. Mongkok. The Langham. please visit the member’s area of www. blackout dates Cathay Pacific now flies 12 times a week to Toronto Club partners : For exclusive Club partner offers. Flights increase to top destinations Cathay Pacific increases its flights this winter. Hong Kong tokoro. From 31 Hotel Hilton Worldwide Hilton® Hotels • Conrad® Hotels & Resorts • Doubletreeby Hilton™ • Embassy Suites Hotels by Hilton™ • Hilton Garden Inn™ • Hilton Grand Vacations™ • The Waldorf Astoria™ Hotels & Resorts Hyatt Hotels & Resorts™ Park Hyatt™ Hotels • Grand Hyatt™ Hotels • Hyatt Regency™ Hotels • Hyatt Place™ • Hyatt Summerfield Suites™ langham Hotels International Mandarin oriental Hotel Group Marriott® International JW Marriott® • Renaissance® Hotels • Marriott® Hotels & Resorts Shangri-la Hotels and Resorts Shangri-La Hotels and Resorts • Traders Hotels Starwood Hotels & Resorts Worldwide Sheraton Hotels & Resorts® • Four Points® by Sheraton • St. Conrad Hong Kong Prince Restaurant t’ang Court. These perfectly proportioned. Hong Kong nicholini’s. Mongkok. the Spa at Shangri-la Salvatore ferragamo Cathay Pacific Inflight Sales Programme – Discover the Shop Dragonair Inflight Sales Programme – Emporium Ponti Wine Cellars Regus travelex For all partner offers. Four flights a day fly to Sydney from 15 November. An additional flight creates a daily service to Cairns and Brisbane will have a total of 11 flights from 21 November. responding to strong demand. For details. A daily service to Hongqiao International Airport in Shanghai resumed on 15 September.