Palm Tree Fertilizer

1 Can of Beer 1 Cup of Epsom Salts ½ Cup of Ammonia 2 Cups of Water

Mix all four ingredients and put in a container. Use ½ ounce at a time. One time every 2 weeks.


Choose houseplants suited to the light levels and temperatures of your home to avoid disappointment. Most houseplants require little attention apart from regular watering and feeding and occasional potting on.

Light Most plants require bright filtered light. Light levels decrease rapidly as plants are placed further back from the window. Our eyes compensate for this lack of light. Low light levels can lead to a decline in health as insufficient food is produced to replace older leaves as they die, leaving pale stunted plants. Too much light can lead to scorching of the foliage with many tropical houseplants.

Temperature Although many houseplants require warm rooms, they generally prefer an even temperature. In winter this becomes a problem when central heating creates large fluctuations between day and night temperatures. Avoid placing plants near radiators, in draughts, or on windowsills at night.

Humidity Many tropical plants require a humid atmosphere. Mist plants daily, or place on a tray of damp gravel. Plants grouped together will create a humid micro-climate around their leaves. Low humidity is a problem

in centrally-heated rooms in winter.

Water Indoor plants more commonly die of over-watering, than from drought. Overwatering eventually leads to root death and collapse of the plant. Keep plants just moist. Avoid letting the compost dry out completely. As the compost dries it becomes lighter in weight and often paler in colour. Water from below allowing the plant to take up water as it is needed, but allow excess to drain away. Brown tips and margins of the leaves often indicate that the compost or atmosphere is too dry. Always use tepid water to prevent temperature shocks to the roots.

Feeding Liquid feeds are generally the best for houseplants. Choose one high in potash for flowering pot plants, more balanced for foliage plants. Slow-release fertiliser tabs or granules will last the growing season, but may concentrate the nutrients to one side of the pot. Specialist feeds are available for certain groups of plants such as orchids and citrus. Most plants should only be fed when actively growing in March to September; flowering plants should be fed when in bud and flower.

Repotting After a year or two plants may need repotting into a larger container to maintain healthy growth. Choose a clean pot one or two sizes large than the old one. Water the plant before potting and allow to drain. Repot using a similar type of compost to the old one. Never repot unless the plant actually needs it. ==================================================== Diagnosing leaf problems in woody plants Pests and diseases may damage leaves, but environmental causes are far more common. Most trees and shrubs will have a few leaves that suffer damage or disfigurement during the growing season. Following severe winter weather or prolonged summer drought, however, there may be more extensive leaf damage on these plants. Foliage can be damaged in a number of ways but identifying the causes from leaf symptoms is not always easy. Take into consideration:

When and where a plant is growing - new plants take time to establish. Soil and root conditions - always examine the condition of the roots to check that they are healthy and have

grown out into the soil (established) Site conditions over the past 12 months - especially if the ground has been waterlogged or very dry. In some cases, such as when leaves are uniformly yellow, there may be a range of factors to consider and all available information should be assessed. Possible explanations may vary from too much or too little water, too sunny a position or simply the shredding of older lower leaves. Bear in mind that even evergreens discard older leaves, which usually function for three to five years then deteriorate and drop. Establishment problems Leaves turning brown and desiccated on young trees and shrubs in the first summer after planting, often remaining firmly attached, indicates that plants have not established correctly. This may be due to the poor quality and condition of the plants purchased, poor planting technique or lack of aftercare. How to avoid Always buy healthy-looking, good quality plants with a good root system. Make sure they are suited to the soil and situation in your garden. Always prepare the site thoroughly and ensure roots are spread out when planting. Avoid planting too deeply – or too shallowly. Plant in autumn so the roots can establish in cool conditions before the following summer. For the first two years water well once a week in dry spells and keep weed free. Drought Browning of leaf tips or margins, especially on young growth, may suggest drought and a failure to establish. Brown leaf tips are common when dry weather follows spring planting before new roots have established properly. How to avoid Water as necessary and maintain a 5-7.5cm (2-3in) mulch around shrubs and young trees, particularly on lighter, drier soils. Cold Frost can damage young shoots in spring distorting growth and causing leaves to turn brown. Plants will recover but re-growth may be slow. Where leaves turn dark purple, common in camellias and clematis, it is usually due to low night-time temperatures. The older leaves of Photinia often show vivid dark red spots and discoloration following cold winters while Garrya leaves often have large areas of black spotting. Cold and drought conditions may cause leaf margins to roll up or the leaves to droop and this often occurs in hardy evergreen shrubs, particularly Rhododendron. Leaves that are white and chlorotic have usually experienced low temperatures and are especially common on tender plants placed outdoors too early in spring. How to avoid Use fleece or other material to protect against frost. Give careful thought to the planting position and, where necessary, erect temporary windbreaks using stout posts and windbreak fabric. In exposed gardens consider planting a shelter belt of tough trees and shrubs.

Scorch Scorching of foliage caused by bright sun is usually obvious, especially as it is worse on the sunny side. It often occurs where water has collected on the leaves. Cold winds in spring or warm, dry winds in spring and summer can cause browning and desiccation of young foliage on deciduous trees and shrubs and may even damage evergreens. Japanese maples (acers) are particularly susceptible. Cold winds in winter, especially if the soil is frozen, may even cause scorch on hardy conifers. How to avoid Erect windbreaks and site susceptible plants in sheltered situations. Ensure plants are mulched and never dry out. Waterlogging The blackening of leaves, usually starting along the vein, is due to waterlogging and is particularly common on heavy soils after wet winters. It is frequently seen on Aucuba. The roots are a bluish-black and fall apart when teased out. There is often a sour smell to both the soil and roots. Waterlogging can also result in reduced variegation or leaf colour. Evergreens, such as hollies, may lose all their leaves following periods of environmental stress, such as waterlogging, but often re-sprout if conditions improve and root damage has not been too severe. How to avoid Either, improve drainage, plant in ridges or mounds or choose plants that thrive in wetter soils

Physical damage Abrasion or other superficial tissue damage (often on Clematis and other wall-trained plants) or the shredding of softer leaves is usually cause by wind buffeting or leaves blowing against a hard surface, such as a fence or wall. Hail damage, represented by small white spotting or flecking, may occur occasionally, mainly to the upper surfaces of leaves. How to avoid Tie in young growth regularly and provide shelter in more exposed situations. Oedema Raised corky patches of tissue on the underside of leaves represents the late stages of oedema. This is caused by excessive water uptake and is worst in situations where there is a lack of airflow and humid atmosphere. How to avoid

Improve airflow around affected plants by pruning and reduce watering. Loss of variegation Variegation may vary during the year and is often less apparent in late summer. Where there is a permanent loss of colour inadequate light is often the cause. Waterlogging can also lead to loss of leaf colour. Reversion may also occur where more vigorous green shoots outgrow variegated shoots. How to avoid Ensure variegated plants are in good light and improve drainage where necessary. Prune out reverted growth. Leaf deformation Where leaves are crinkled or creased it may be due to stop/go development, often cause by a cold spell in spring or early summer. Where herbicides have been used consider the possibility of spray drift. How to avoid Use fleece to protect young growth and ensure regular watering in dry spells during early growth.

Nutrient deficiencies Lack of leaf colour with poor growth may simply be due to a shortage of nutrients in general, particularly nitrogen. This is more common on light, sandy soils than on clay soils. Interveinal yellowing is usually caused by iron, magnesium or manganese deficiencies. Yellowing of foliage will also occur where hard water is used on ericaceous plants, such as rhododendrons and camellias. Yellowing of foliage may, however, be a secondary symptom and there may be other causes for the deterioration, such as drought, pot-bound roots or a general lack of root function due to poor establishment.

How to avoid For a general lack of vigour apply a balanced fertiliser in spring. For specific mineral deficiencies apply sequestered iron, Epsom salts or manganese sulphate. Where yellowing is due to excess calcium in an alkaline soil it is better to choose lime-loving plants. Chemicals Brown, dead areas on foliage can be caused by using pesticide sprays at the wrong strengths or in hot, sunny conditions; also by misjudged application of some weedkillers. Path weedkillers are residual and heavy rain can wash them into adjoining beds. Spray drift may cause distorted growth, particularly on roses.

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------Insecticides DEWORMING CONCOCTION This is an old time remedy for deworming dogs and cats. Use full amount on dogs and 1/4 amount on cats. Mix one teaspoon of dried, powdered rosemary and one teaspoon of wormwood with 1/2 teaspoon of fresh ground garlic. Mix well and divide into 4 portions. Give pet a portion mixed in with food or pet treat four times a day. Repeat this for 3 days and pet should be completely dewormed

House and Garden Natural Insecticide 2 tablespoons liquid soap 1 quart water Spray bottle

Mix soap and water; add to spray bottle; spray plants evenly, aiming directly at pests whenever possible. All-Purpose Insecticide 1 bulb of garlic 1 small onion 1 tablespoon cayenne (red) pepper 2 tablespoons liquid soap 1 quart water Spray bottle

Finely chop onion and garlic; mix with tap water; add cayenne pepper; let sit for one hour, then add soap. Mix well. When foam subsides, strain into spray bottle. Keep refrigerated. Good for 1-2 weeks.

Special Pest Treatments Ants Use boric acid, talcum powder, or chalk as a barrier along the line of entry.

Snails and Slugs

Fill a shallow pan with flat beer and place in the infested area.

Roaches Set out a dish containing equal parts sugar and baking soda. Roaches are attracted to sugar, and baking soda is deadly to them.

Fleas Orange peels Grapefruit peels 3 cloves garlic 1 tablespoon rosemary, (optional) 1 pint water Combine ingredients in blender; blend until liquified. Heat mixture on low heat for 15 minutes. Strain liquid into spray bottle. Spray on pet, and massage thoroughly into your pet's coat, avoiding their eyes.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------Note: Feed your pet brewers yeast and garlic, as a diet supplement. Vacuum furniture and carpet frequently (store vacuum outside of home--in shed or garage--during problem periods); clean your pet's favorite sleeping spots regularly and sprinkle with fennel, rue or rosemary. .

THE SAFE INSTANT KILL INSECTICIDE The most effective insecticide that instantly kills flying and crawling insects on contact but does no harm to mammals or birds is the dried and crushed flowers of the Pyrethrum Plant. This brown powder will kill or stun the insects the moment it touches them but does no harm to pets when sprinkled on their coats. This member of the daisy family is a beautiful ornamental and will compliment any garden or flower bed. While very effective, the dried powder only lasts for a few days. You can prolong its use throughout the year by freezing fresh flower heads in zip-lock bags and drying and crushing them as needed

Cedar Oil Try a cedar oil spray. I get it at PetSmart & use it on the dogs, cats & kids - it may seem a bit pricey but one

bottle lasts for awhile. There may be another source for it among herbal shops, natural food stores, etc. One tip for anyone using it for fleas - it's a REPELLANT and works best if used before you see any fleas. If you've already got fleas, the same company makes a shampoo.

Rubbing Alcohol I found out many years ago, when I was a young teenager, that just splashing plain rubbing alcohol on me and allowing it to dry would deter mosquitoes from biting me. I am allergic to mosquito bites and develop huge welts everywhere they bite me. With the alcohol, they never bit me. And once it dries, it leaves a pleasant odor on the skin, not repugnant at all. Thought this might help. And it only costs less than 50 cents a bottle! Vaporub This is going to floor you, but one of the best insect repellents I have found and I am in the woods every day, is Vick's Vaporub. I rub it on my pants and legs to ward off ticks. If you can tolerate the smell it's pretty good. Marigolds in the Yard There are several things to do when trying to protect yourself and kids from those nasty bugs in the yard during the summer. One thing to do is plant marigolds around the yard, the flowers give off a smell that bugs do not like, so plant some in that garden also to help ward off bugs without using insecticides. Try putting a bounce dryer sheet on your belt or in your sock, the sheet will mask your smell and ward off the bugs.

Marine's Choice I don't know how "organic" you want to go, or if it's just DEET you're trying to avoid. But here in Jacksonville, NC, home of Camp Lejeune Marine Corps Base, our "tough guy" Marines who spend a great deal of time "camping out" say that the very best mosquito repellant you can use is Avon Skin-So-Soft bath oil mixed about half and half with alcohol. I've tried it, and I have to admit it works just as well if not better than the commercial sprays. Actually, I just saw an ad on TV this week for Avon's own Skin-So-Soft insect repellant. I'm assuming it's made about the same way -- but it may turn out to be less expensive in the long run to mix your own. An added plus -- it smells great too.

Homemade Recipe 20 drops Eucalyptus oil 20 drops Cedarwood oil 10 drops Tea Tree oil

10 drops Geranium oil 2 oz. carrier oil ( such as Jojoba ) Mix together in a 4 oz. container. Apply to skin as needed avoiding the eye area. Keep out of reach of children. Test on a small area of skin for sensitivities . Experiment with different percentages of essential oil.

Vanilla One of the best natural insect repellants that I've discovered is made from the clear real vanilla (not the grocery store vanilla extract which is mostly alcohol). This is the pure vanilla that is sold in Mexico. It's cheap there if you know of someone that lives there or in the US close to the border. If not, health food stores usually carry it or can order it for you. I use it half vanilla and half water and find that it works great for mosquitoes and ticks, don't know about other insects. It's nice that you don't smell like a chemical plant but a cookie! I cannot use chemical insecticides, so I love the way this works and I hope you and your kids will also.

Moth Balls To the person who needed natural insect repellent. This is not natural but if you put out moth ball in the yard where children can't find them, they are great for mosquito. Or make a mixture of 1part baby powder, 1 part flower of sulfur(found at drug stores), 1 part cornstarch. Mix in a ziploc bag, sprinkle on the ground. Repels most bugs.

from HGTV "Finely chop a dozen garlic cloves into 4 ounces of mineral oil. Soak for a day or 2, strain it and add 4 drops of dishwasher liquid. Dilute with half cup of water and pour into sprayer." I used a coffee filter to strain it (sort of messy) and it smells out loud. So far I have used it on two plants and it appears nondamaging. Incidentally, I planted garlic cloves next to each rose bush and that appears ot have repelled insects. That is a widely known practice, I gather. Incidentally, I use old soap and garden spray bottles with no harmful residue.

Catnip Concoction Make your own by filling a quart jar with some herbs from the mint family - catnip, spearmint, pennyroyal and then cover with apple cider vinegar. Shake twice a day for 2 weeks. Strain and either rub on or spray on.

Lavender Oil

I just read about a pleasant solution, though, that worked for me last weekend in the mountains (lots of biting bugs, but they pretty much left me alone.) Use lavender oil, and dab it on your pulse points (I used it on my wrists, behind my ears, temples, behind my knees, and on my ankles). Smells wonderful, but apparently the insects don't think so.

Bug-Proof Your Yard There are many insect repellents that contain 'pyrethum' which is actually a natural extract of the marigold plant. It is very safe for use around children and pets but it is quite expensive. You may also want to regularly spray your plants and grass with a soap and water solution. This will have 3 effects: 1) it will dehydrate most bugs and kill them without chemicals, 2) it will help to keep your grass and plants clean of pollution and make them healthier and 3) it will soften your soil which mean you won't have to water as much. Use a hose-end sprayer filled with 1 cup of any cheap dishwashing soap for your grass or 1 tablespoon of soap in a hand-held sprayer for your plants.

THE GREAT MOSQUITO REPELLENT Mosquitoes are very sensitive to certain scents, Chamomile and Citriodora especially. Both are easy to grow and both are used in dry flower arrangements. Citriodora is also used in potpourri. To make The Great Mosquito Repellent, take one oz. of green leaves from both plants and boil in a gallon of water. Strain and place in the refrigerator. Before going outside, splash the mixture liberally over your face and exposed parts of your body. You will enjoy the fresh, citrus smell but the mosquitoes will stay far away.

TOBACCO DUST. This dust is ideal for making a great natural pesticide. Mix 1/8 oz. of tobacco dust with one tablespoon of black pepper and one teaspoon of liquid dishwashing detergent. Simply apply as you would a chemical pesticide. This dust is also very effective sprinkled around the base of plants.

Paint Sticks. To repels bugs from your plants, Pick up paint sticks from your paint store. You can get them for free. Spray paint them florescent yellow. Then spray them with a spray adhesive. Put near all your plants. The bugs will be attracted to the color, they will fly or crawl on the sticks and get stuck!


Lemon is a natural insecticide and has similar pest-resistant qualities to those of lavender, marigolds, sassafras and eucalyptus. Try placing minced lemon peel at the base of day lilies, for example, to discourage the destructive lily beetle. By all means, plant lemon herbs throughout the garden as they a provide a natural ?line in the sand? to discourage unwanted insects.

ANT CONTROL "An organic approach has worked better for me and creates no contamination. To control fire ants and other pests such as fleas, termites, chinch bugs, ticks, crickets and grasshoppers, try the following method"( Authors' note: This approach has not been scientifically evaluated.). Step 1: Spray the site with a citrus product. Use a d-limonene product, an orange oil product or any product that contains a citrus base. Follow label instructions for mixing. Homemade citrus can be made by soaking citrus peels in water for ten days to two weeks. Use one cup of homemade concentrate per gallon of water to create a spray. Adding garlic-pepper tea makes the spray even more powerful. This same spray also will help control aphids, whiteflies and mosquitoes. The garlic-pepper tea spray also will kill beneficial insects, so use it carefully. In addition, don't use more than the recommended rates of any of the citrus concentrates or it could kill plants or burn foliage. Step 2: Treat mounds with a drench of manure compost tea, molasses and citrus oil. Commercial products may become available that contain these ingredients. The homemade mix includes the following per gallon of water: 1 to 2 cups compost tea, 2 ounces molasses and 2 ounces citrus oil (see recipe above). Step 3: Distribute beneficial nematodes on problem areas. Be sure to apply these living organisms within the date listed on the container - nematodes have a limited shelf life. Step 4: Spray the site at least monthly with a mixture of manure compost tea, seaweed, natural vinegar and molasses.

Inorganic Compounds. Boric acid is a slow-acting stomach poison. It is commonly formulated as a dust or liquid bait for indoor control of ants. One product has been formulated as a fire ant bait for outdoor broadcast treatment; however, scientifically acceptable data supporting its effective use have not been produced. Care should be taken when using any boron-containing product around plants, as excess amounts can lead to boron toxicity. Diatomaceous earth (D.E., silicone dioxide) products registered by EPA as pesticides are usually applied as a fine dust contact insecticide to ant trails indoors or to produce barriers. No other forms of D.E. (e.g. swimming pool filter grade or treated D.E.) should be used as a pesticide. D.E. abrades the waxy layer from the insect exoskeleton causing the insect to desiccate. Although suitable for dusting foraging ant trails indoors, when applied as a dust or drench to fire ant mounds, dust the tops of imported fire ant mounds with D.E. dust alone usually does not eliminate treated colonies.

ANT CONTROL Home-Made Boric Acid Baits. The recipe below can be prepared and used to eliminate fire ants in indoor situations Mix 1 part boric acid powder (available from most pharmacies) per 100 (or 50) parts bait material, e.g., 1 teaspoon per 2 (or 1) cups food material Do not make the bait concentration of boric acid too strong as this reduces its acceptance. The one percent bait is better than higher concentrations since it is less repellent to the ants and kills ants as efficiently. Keep the bait fresh and moist. Small quantities of bait can be placed in bottle caps or on pieces of tin foil, or injected into short (2 inch long) sections of soda straws using a squeeze bottle. Place 20 to 30 small bait stations where ants have been seen or were attracted to baits as described in the previous section. Do not place stations in areas accessible to small children or pets. If the proper food is used and the bait is kept fresh, control should be achieved after 3 to 4 weeks for a careful, thorough baiting program. For outdoor use, a boric acid solution can be made by mixing 1 tsp boric acid, 3 Tbsp sugar in 2 cups water and placing it in a container laid on its side near an ant hill. However, organic gardeners feel that boric acid should not be used outdoors since it can be toxic to plants.

Ant Killers Ingredients: -----SUGAR BAIT, NON-TOXIC----1/2 C Honey 2 Tbsp Sugar 1/2 C Dry yeast -----SPICE BATE----1 Tbsp Red pepper 1 Tbsp Ground cloves 2 Tbsp Boric acid Directions: Sugar Bait: Mix ingredients together. Put around where ants are troublesome. If possible, use a small plastic container with a cover and pierce holes in it for the ants to enter. The sweetness of this mixture is apt to attract your pets. Spice Bait: Mix and place in ant trails. BE CAREFUL OF PETS-- boric acid-- POISON.

Basic Bug Spray RecipeIngredients: liquid soap and waterCombine 1-tablespoon liquid soap and 1 gallon of water in a bucket and stir until blended. Fill a spray bottle with the mixture to spray infested areas. Always make sure to use liquid soap and not detergent. Detergents may kill your plants. Basic Bug Spray with Repellent Ingredients: liquid soap, water, spices, and roots (garlic, onion, horseradish, ginger, rhubarb leaves, or cayenne pepper) To eradicate current infestations and to prevent future ones, add some of the strong smelling spices and roots, listed above, to repel those pests. Boil 1-quart water and pour into a Mason jar with a handful of the spices and roots. Make sure to screw on the top and let the mixture sit overnight. The next morning strain the mixture, mix in 1 to 2 tablespoons of liquid soap and spray on infested plants. The soap mixture will act as an insecticide and the spices and roots will repel the insects. This mixture can go bad, so freeze any leftovers for use on another day. Fruit Tree Dormant Oil SprayIngredients: vegetable oil, liquid soap and water This solution can be used to suffocate overwintering pests such as mites and aphids on fruit trees and shrubs. Combine 2-tablespoons of liquid soap and 1-cup of vegetable oil and blend thoroughly. Add 1gallon of water a little bit at a time, stirring as you go. Spray a coat of the mixture over the entire bark of a tree. Make sure the solution stays mixed as you are spraying. Snail Repellent Recipe Bury a small bowl or metal can flush with the ground and fill it with beer to attract and trap snails. Mildew Control Solution (for flowers and vegetables) Ingredients: baking soda, liquid soap and waterBlend 1-tablespoon baking soda and 1-tablespoon liquid soap into 1-gallon of water. Pour into a spray bottle and spray on mildew.

Fertilizes Soil while you Kill Insects

Formula Ingredients: liquid soap, 1 gallon hot water, spices, and roots (garlic, onion, horseradish, ginger, rhubarb leaves, or cayenne pepper) 1 bottle of beer, 1 tsp. baking powder Fill a spray bottle with the mixture to spray on grass and plants. Always make sure to use liquid soap and not detergent. Detergents may kill your plants. ---------------------------------Canada Geese Control The most effective long-term and environmentally sensitive solution to controlling geese on your property is through landscaping. Geese prefer short manicured lawns and do not feel as comfortable feeding in areas were their view is obstructed by dense vegetation. By allowing grassy areas to return to a natural meadow state, growing 20-30 inches tall, geese will not be able to maneuver as well and will seek out a more suitable habitat elsewhere.


Put the following ingredients in a blender (1 onion, some garlic, a chile pepper, marigold leaves and Ivory soap) and then pour into a glass jar and set in the sun for 3 days. Use this as a spray to deter pests. ____________________________________________ Control cicada-killers In an old dish wash soap bottle (squeeze type) mix salad dressing (1/2 of the bottle of oil, the remaining half vinegar) equal amounts of each to fill the old soap container. Use the cheapest oil and vinegar I could find in the supermarket. Mix and shake, wait for a wasp to enter a hole, then squirt the mixture into the hole after it. Look for all of the other holes and randomly just fill them with the mix. The vinegar helps the mix to run down into the hole, and the oil coats it. The wasps will leave. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------Other Fertilizers

All-Purpose Tree Fertilizer

3 parts cottonseed meal, soy meal, or blood meal 2 parts finely ground raw phosphate rock or steamed bone meal 3 parts wood ashes, granite rock or greens 1 part dolomitic limestone Mix all materials. Apply 1 pound of fertilizer for each foot of the drip line diameter of the tree (3 feet = 12 pounds).

Monthly Fertilizer for flowers, plants & lawn: 1 gal. warm water 1 tsp. baking powder 1 tsp. epsom salts 1/2 tsp. household ammonia Mix together in a gallon jug. The lady that sent it in said it came from her brother who used to work in a flower shop and it is what they used.

-----------------------------------------Epsom Salts are simply superb for everything in your yard-trees, shrubs, flowers, and especially your lawn. Epsom Salts contain 16% magnesium and 22% sulfur to deepen the color, promote new growth, and even help strengthen stems and roots. Many store bought fertilizers are available, but making your own may bring better rose results: bigger blooms and in general, a more healthy plant. How to make your own flower fertilizer: 1 1/4 cup beer, 1 tbsp. honey,, 2 tbsp. fish sauce, 2 tbsp. ammonia, 2 tbsp. liquid dish soap, 1 1/2 tbsp. hydrogen peroxide, 4 tbsp. instant tea. Mix it all up with 2 1/2 gallons of warm water. Feed your flowering plants every two weeks. To make a home made brew (use no more than twice a month) in a blender or food processor: 1 Banana skin (cutting of the woody hard to pulverize top and bottom) 1/4 cup Epsom salts (The magnesium in Epsom salts assists in the metabolic process. It's usually less expensive to buy it at a drug store than at the nursery.)

4 Cups of Water THE REST IS OPTIONAL: 1 Cup of fresh grass trimmings (Optional) 1 Cup of Potato Skin Peelings (So make a smoothie for lunch and mashed potatoes for dinner) A few teaspoons of milk of magnesia (if you have any around.) 1/2 Cup of Cotton Seed Meal (If you have any around) 2 Tbsp. of Ammoni


Weed Control SolutionIngredients: salt, liquid detergent and vinegarCombine 1-cup salt, 1-teaspoon liquid detergent, and 1-gallon vinegar in a bucket. After the mixture is thoroughly blended, spray onto weeds. This recipe is to be used for weeds growing in sidewalk cracks and between bricks – not in the garden. This solution can kill the beneficial plants in your landscaping. To kill weeds on you lawn use this effective recipe: 80% vinegar and 20% water. Spray on and kill almost any weeds.
For inside landscaped areas, your safest bet is to remove the weeds by hand when the soil is moist. Moist soil allows for the plant and its roots to be pulled out more easily. To prevent weeds, before mulching, first put a couple of layers of newspaper down and then place the mulch on top. This will prevent weed seeds from sprouting. ---------------------------------------------------Keep your grass green Never water your grass when the sun is high. Always do it in the morning or before the night. ---------------------------------------------------Want a well-aerated lawn? Then wear your golf shoes when mowing or walking on your lawn. You'll need less water to keep it green!

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