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Painting 1/35 scale heads in 8 steps
I would like to share with you the most common approach I use when painting a head. There are many ways but this is the quick and easy system I have used for the past few years. It is essentially a mix of many techniques wrapped into one methodology. Step 1 - Priming Prior to starting, wash the figurine entirely with soap and water; for white metal use vinegar and water. Remove all flash, and fill joints and holes with Milliput or plastic putty. Spray an undercoat of Tamiya Dark or Desert Yellow mixed with acrylic Flat White in a ratio of 1:1 mixed with gloss coat Let dry for 24 hours.
http://www.missing-lynx.com/articles/figures/mbheads/mbheads.htm[9/3/10 1:53:05 PM]
Before you do the eyes. It should be thinly spread out and translucent enough so that the base colour be visible through the fresh flesh oil paint. fan-shaped brush and very lightly stroke downwards across the face one or two times. Fiddle until you like the colour of the flesh tone. You will require four tubes of oil paint -Gold Ochre.com/articles/figures/mbheads/mbheads. above the eye browse. Remember. neck and hands. Burnt Sienna. and particularly white. Basically. Apply a thin wash to the entire face. Little by little . the sockets should be dark as a result of your umber wash. Mix up Raw Umber and enamel thinner. sides of nostril.Painting Other Facial Details If you feel the face needs a little more colour contrast. add a wash until you are satisfied with the results. you will begin to see the results take life. Leave under direct light for two hours. leaving the middle area with a dark residue from the original wash . neck and hands as well as any other exposed flesh area. wet oil colours tend to dry to a slightly darker shade so be liberal with the white! With a good brush (but not necessarily a pointed brush). Step 5. Dip your toothpick/needle in your whitish mixture and place a tiny spec in the inner and outer corners of each eye socket. Dab a splinter into a brown/black oil paint mix and place a dot in each of the sockets between the two specs of white. The effects of the highlight won't be apparent while the paint is wet. Step 4 . Step 6 .missing-lynx. either looking left. add three tiny dots the size of a typed period of pure white to each of these highlight points . Split toothpicks in half and you will note that the halve-ends actually break into extremely thin splinters. Let this dry for two hours under direct light. I have chosen oil paints as my standard medium for painting figures. Let it dry for a day and prepare yourself to work on the eyes. The oil/thinner mixture should find itself into all the crevices. right. up or down. you've put in the whites of the eyes. apply one coat of paint in a very thin layer by jabbing the paint on softly to the entire face . chin. mix a little Burnt Sienna and thinner and very lightly wash your http://www. ridge of the nose.htm[9/3/10 1:53:05 PM] . and Flake White to a 2:1:4 ratio. and generally place irises looking slightly off centre. As it dries. Step 3 . You may need to split a dozen before you get that perfect splinter. straight on looks can never be perfect! Let the paint dry thoroughly for three days.Missing Links Mark Bannerman Painting 1/35 scale heads in 8 steps Article Step 2 . are translucent in nature and this is favourable. tops of ears and knuckles. and not thinned paint. oils look glossy when wet which obliterates the highlight completely.Painting the Eyes Drop a little spec of enamel Flesh Pink to white oil on your palette and bring the mixture to an off white-pink colour. Raw Umber Flake White.Deep Shadows Give yourself fifteen minutes a day for each of the following steps over a course of two weeks. always avoiding both the eye sockets and avoid directly painting in flesh where you have residue from your original wash of burnt umber. Burnt Sienna. Take a soft. The white specs of paint will then be blended into the semidry flesh colours leaving a subtle highlight colour. It should be tainted thinner.Highlights While the flesh is still semi wet and with the aid of a toothpick. Let this cure for two days. dry.Upper cheek bones. Oil colours in general. I tend to avoid straight head-on glares. In my experience.The Flesh Prepare a flesh mix by adding Gold Ochre.
nose. place a little spec of white in the middle of the lower lip. add a little of your mix of flesh to it and blend it in. When the hair is thoroughly dry. That wraps up a step by step. draw a wide brush across the hand and the white oil paint will blend out. spray a coat of semi or gloss coat to the head from above so that the gloss catches only the protruding features. use a toothpick splinter and apply dotted line of Raw Umber across the eyebrow area. However. However. On the lower lip. Let it sit for one hour and whisk a dry brush across the face downwards very lightly. Step 8 . nose bridge. I suggest spraying a little gloss coat to protect the dry oil paint underneath.Last but not least. lower cheeks..but in some instances where these are necessary. mix a little Crimson colour to your flesh and paint in the lower lip only. add a pin head-size drop of pure white highlight to the peaks of the facial features again (the eye ridge. If are going to do this. and again avoiding the eyes.com/articles/figures/mbheads/mbheads. When your head is thoroughly dry. It will add that much more life to your figure. almost a drybrush stippling motion to the area you want covered. Once the white dots are in place. I rarely paint eyebrows unless they protrude . A neat trick after this all dries is to add little specs of white oil on the knuckles and joints. I have attached a few heads which were painted in this manner. Another wash of Burnt Sienna will shade those areas between the deep shadows and high points on the hand. It is best to apply this when the base flesh tone used for the face is still wet so that you can blend the two together. gives similar a result.. The 5 o'clock shadow can be achieved by combining of Paynes' Grey with Burnt Umber and applying it very lightly. If you do decide to lightly wash your figure's head.htm[9/3/10 1:53:05 PM] . Main What's New Articles Reviews Gallery Think Tank Contests http://www.Missing Links Mark Bannerman Painting 1/35 scale heads in 8 steps Article figure's face. This is really crucial. If it looks too rosy. a slight wash of black (any medium) through tire hair will provide the shadows followed with a highlight of white whisked across the hair tops. the Raw Umber wash could a be a little heavier to ensure that the recesses between the fingers are well accentuated. I treat hands similarly to the face. top of cheeks. This last step is probably the easiest. When dry.Extra Facial Details There are few important steps which can make your figure look that much more realistic. Let this dry for an hour.Raw Umber mixed with Black makes quite a good colour match. ensure the oils have dried for at least a week! When all has dried. This step is the equivalent of blending "rosy" oil colours and if done with a little patience. paying particular attention to the forehead. "Rosy" cheeks is quite easily duplicated by adding Humbrol 50 with Burnt Sienna (50/50) to your flesh base and lightly applying to the cheeks area. Paint the hair whatever colour you wish -. Step 7 .missing-lynx. This could either be done wet on wet or right over the dry paint. I tend to apply this last and directly on top of the dry flesh paint. It has to be very subtle. This step is not entirely necessary and it is up to you to judge wether it is required. sides of nostrils. and chin).
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