BOAT PERFORMANCE SAILING A TRITON TO WIN- by former National Triton Champion, Ridgley Melvin, Chesapeake Bay Triton Fleet


In general, I like to think of a boat as an athlete, say a miler in track, and the skipper and crew as a combination coaching and training staff. In order to win races, the first requisite is that the athlete be in tip-top physical condition. In a boat this means the following: 1. A clean, smooth bottom. Without it any boat is like a miler with clogged cleats. Before every race I always cleaned JEM's bottom. A section of a discarded life cushion wrapped with a towel or burlap and attached to a board on the end of a long pole makes a dandy scrubber from the dock if you can't persuade your crew to go overboard. 2. Good sails. I had four sails--main, genoa, spinnaker (all Murphy & Nye), and working jib (Ratsey). The main and genoa were cut fairly flat, excellent for heavy air to windward and, with easily controllable outhaul and ;uff adjustments, highly satisfactory even in light going. I know many disagree, but I think it's easier to increase draft in a flat cut sail than to take it out of a full cut sail. 3. Equipment that WORKS. A traveller that "travels"; sail slides that slide; jam cleats that jam (for pole lift and foreguy leading to cockpit)) blocks that turn and are big enough; easily seen compass for detecting small wind shifts; snap shackles that snap; outhauls that "haul, etc. 4. Properly tuned mast. This results largely from trial and error, but I found the following produced satisfactory results for Triton #27 with her 7/8th rig. (a) Mast - no rake aft; if anything, a slight forward rake. This seemed to reduce weather helm. (b) Jumpers - very tight. Turn buckles at the lower ends of the jumpers are easier to adjust than the V struts. (c) Head and back stays - very tight. I was never able to produce a taut enough head stay without also putting a slight curve in the mast, but the curve was a smooth curve and I thought the taut headstay more important than a perfectly straight mast. (d) Upper shrouds - about same as backstay. (e) Lower shrouds (I did not have forward lowers)-I found that these had to be very loose (floppy) in order to produce a straight mast athwartships under sail. Here I think straightness IS important, other- wise the slot effect is seriously affected, and the main's efficiency is markedly decreased. To get straightness, I set up the shrouds fairly tight at the dock and, underway in a good breeze, backed off the lowers until perfect straightness (sighting along the sail track, not the forward side of mast) was achieved. Once adjusted, I rarely had to touch thenm the rest of the season.

In light breezes (5 .cularly on reaches. On a run in a breeze.. when one is enough. keep as much weight as you can low in the boat and out of the ends. or 10 gallons of gas when 5 is enough to meet any emergency. put your crew on the rail amidships and. a Triton cannot be slammed about like a dinghy without losing both speed and dis. By so doing I found little loss of boat speed and considerable gain in distance to windward. in calm water. These three controls should be adjusted with every change in wind strength and sai7ins angle. feathering up to windward if necessary (except in very rough seas).e.tance. When gear is all stowed. Sail her around whenever traffic conditions permit.h. extra weight is excess baggage and does nothing but slow you down.10 m. including a substitute for yourself. the engine thrusts bow up. especially with spinnaker. Tell-tales on the genoa (about 8" back from the luff). or 50 Ibs. Here I think the important thing is to keep the boat on her feet.) I got best results by steering so as to keep the sails as full as possible -. Consistent with any rating or class rule. The waterline will tell you whether or not she is on her lines. boat speed stayed up with no loss in distance to windward and very little weather helm. So. move your crew aft when running downwind. I found that by trimming the genoa very flat. of ice when 25 is plenty. (You didn't ask me about tactics!) Sail Control. and the boat balances with more weight aft than she does at rest or beating and reaching. Why carry two cases of beer.even by sacri. this is important. not the forepeak. and more weight forward makes her cruise under power quieter as Hell as faster. parti. as head coach you then tell him how to use his physical attributes to best advantage to get around the course faster than anyone else. slight weather helm). or why carry a week's supply of heavy canned goods for a 15 mile race? As with the miler athlete. While racing to wind.ficing distance to windward if necessary. or 15 gals. . Weight distribution.p. check how your Triton floats with crew at normal stations. Speaking of gain to windward. Fine trim the genoa first and use the main chiefly to produce a good helm (i. I found most helpful. Human weight is by far the greatest and most mobile. The main sheet traveller I found most helpful in controlling the leach and reducing excess windward helm without losing much drive. of water when 2 is more than enough (especially with the beer aboard). Tiller Control. I got best results by regarding the genoa as the primary source of power. Another Observation: Several hundred pounds of ballast forward of the mast reduces the weather helm and aids in heavy weather and foul seas. In light air the genoa luff should be slack and the main downhaul and outhaul loose. thesail aloft presses the bow dorm.5. Under power. (if you can get away with it!) put one below on the windward bunk in the main cabin. Having gotten your athlete in tip-top shape to race. better yet. Put the beer and cokes in the bilge. For racing. No unnecessary weight. In a boat this means doing the right thing at the right time with the sails and the tiller. In stronger breezes. with a slight luff to the main.ward.

push the traveler from part way down to the entire way down. Alan Campbell (NETA) made up a dual vang from "Blockit" parts. The function is explained in most good sailing books (such as Bavier's Sailing to Win) and repeat. run aft to cleats at the cockpit. but not all." As an added incen. then. The prime opportunity to do well. "Try it. I found that by racing regularly I kept the boat and gear in better all around shape than otherwise. To them my best advice is. Then. By pushing the slider more to leeward as the wind rises. and then the maneuvering for the start begins. leaving the mainsheet as is--unless the puff overpowers you. and recover it again as soon as order is restored. interested in gawking and gabbing with neighboring boats milling around the starting area. the crew finally focuses on readying the boat. at some point on the line. of course. to the start of the preceding class. finally. for example. Indeed. The attention of the skipper easily wanders from the list of little details yet undone. needs constant reminders that the purpose of the day is to do well in the imminent race.edly shown and described in the various magazines. This made for peace of mind. This is standard on racers and modern cruisers. if you are trimmed right on a beat for 15K breeze and a puff comes to 18K or more. He put a double thimble block on a strap on the boom and then snapped fiddle blocks to stanchion bases on either side of the boat. of the same advantages as the VANG. with the structure of the race itself taking hold. Thus. the positions in the race seldom change.Finally . preserving the shape of the sail. but perhaps that's because the Triton is such a great boat to race and cruise. *************** THE BOOM VANG Recommended for use in moderate and heavier breezes is the BOOM VANG. I hope it helps.tive to those with an eye to the future. THE TRAVELER Traveler for main sheet accomplishes most. The crew. THE FIRST OF THE FIRST by Stovy Brown (CBTF) After the fleet has passed the first mark. to wondering whether he's brought enough lunch to please the winch grinders. except for occasional swap of places by adjacent competitors. the first part of the first leg is crucial. Before realizing it. the start and first leg are unquestionably the most difficult to handle. the skipper begins his methodical analysis of the . 3/8" lines. It does what it's supposed to do! To those who have not yet been bitten by the racing bug. you keep the main sheet leading down. less than ten minutes remain to the gun. you'll like it. lies in the relatively short part of the race preceding the first rounding.After reading the above. and away we go. on some tack. I realize I have not really said anything new or startling. Psychologically. give easy control. instead of allowing the boom to lift and distort the sail as the boom is let out. more enjoyable cruising. in which case you temporarily let the sheet go. The gun sounds.

Too late.Early analysis of the first leg should lead to a decision about whether to play one side or tack on shifts up the middle. One solution to this problem is for the skipper to provide a suitable structure for decision making before the start.. Failure to take this factor into account before the start in all likelihood leads to a competitor blocking the way. or forcing you about to clear your air. he condi. A one page planning form or check sheet can accomplish this very comfortably. crucial moments. that the boat is set up for a fast breakaway from the line. Poor starting position . This crewman helps keep the strategy development on the right timetable by seeking the necessary items on the sheet before the warning gun. Unless the wind velocity changes after the preparatory gun.tions himself to early methodical observations and decision making.mine whether you can take advantage of these first. The boat that uses them correctly enjoys clear air and freedom to tack properly on future shifts. by preventing an early tack. As the skipper and crew fill in each entry or check off the items. .conditions. the fleet. The crew must not distract the skipper from his vigil by questions about the set up of the boat or strategical and tactical factors. Poor tactical position . and that the crew is in agreement with the initial strategy.sidered. On the way to the starting line. The opportunity to do well on the first leg most probably is already jeopardized by one or more of the following factors: Poor boat speed .. Your position on the line may deter. (See page 6). 2) The skipper has confidence that all factors have been con. most of the items relating to the boat can be done and checked off. beginning with the dockside items. two things happen: 1) The entire crew focuses on the race from the beginning of the sailing day.Leaving the line with good headway and without interference from the backwind or blanket of adjacent boats requires concentration during the final few minutes before the gun. for the wind is already shifting. Notice that the check sheet begins with writing down the weather report. Poor strategic position .In the last minute rush. details of setting up the boat have escaped. but not in an overbearing fashion.If you elect to play shifts. the current acting. such as the main outhaul. One member of the crew can then be assigned to complete the form. perhaps tacking. being right on the first couple off the line is usually all important. no adjustments should be necessary during the initial moments of the race itself. certainly before the preparatory. If the skipper does this before the crew arrives. Those remaining will usually have to do with exact settings of various control lines.

Limiting movement of the crew when approaching marks is very important in the light to medium wind conditions prevailing on the Chesapeake. the skipper and crew can relax knowing that the boat is ready and the strategy in hand. As he dictates these decisions to the request. if lifted. the only talking needs to be the steady count of the time keeper. . This procedure usually leads to discussion about which sails will probably be set on each leg. By taking these readings several times before the start. He should then review his work with the skipper and entire crew. he does them in the right order for maximum benefit on the first leg. This procedure helps you figure where the wind is in its cycle as you cross the line. Walking about or unnecessary weight on the foredeck will noticeably slow a Triton. you may be able to pick up a persistent shift and integrate its dominating effect into your first leg strategy. and orders from the skipper. or a delayed one. observations on wind. yet just as fast as most conventional ways. Observations supporting or counter to the earliest thinking should be routinely relayed to the skipper. A major strategic advantage to one side of the course usually far outweighs any advantage of a slightly cocked starting line. The other decisions should already be written down. Sail long enough to note the full range of headings and the approximate time between oscillations. then. All that check list recorder. This structure insures proper attention to a good start. an occasional observation from the crew. is for the skipper to make more decisions: the strategy for the first leg. As soon as the Race Committee boat makes the course signal. Having the crew thus prepared can save many headaches for the skipper when rounding marks in heavy traffic. leading you to an early tack.cockpit) have devised a technique for setting the spinnaker with a minimum of activity on the foredeck. focusing on the race. and weather should be filled in rapidly. current. With all of this done before the warning gun. not entirely new ones. This data This data should also be written down in the cockpit for quick reference throughout the race. During the last five minutes then. Set the jib and note compass headings on each tack. even with a moderate breeze blowing. and what sail to set initially.Once in the starting area. A FAST TECHNIQUE FOR SETTING THE SPINNAKER by Stovy Brown Traveller's regular crew (Tom Jayne. who now must deal only with changes in plan. Postponing sail selection to the end allows you to take advantage of last minute shifts of wind velocity or strength without sacrificing your ability to arrive at other decisions because of the inevitable confusion surrounding a headsail change. for the start and the first leg. the crewman assigned to the check list should note all the marks in proper sequence with compass headings. if any. before the warning gun. if headed. the crew begins to pull together. The basic idea for this technique involves hoisting the spinnaker out of the forward hatch with sheet and guy set up on the proper side before the start. where to start on the line. But more importantly. Steve Jent and Norman Weisman. foredeck. and to making the proper moves just following and during those crucial first few moments of the first leg.

the foredeck crew guides the pole up as the topping lift is raised by one of the cockpit crew. Make sure that the bottom of the bag is fastened (say to a loop of the line tied through a small hole drilled in the door) so that the bag cannot be raised above the height of the hatch. and back down the foredeck to one tack of the spinnaker. All the rest of his duties since the race began have been done at or . lead the guy forward. This prevents the genoa from fouling the spinnaker halyard on the final tack. over the life lines. All presetting is now done. On the last port tack of your approach. Attach the topping lift. and attach the foreguy or downhaul.a cruising boon as well as a racing advantage). Prepare the spinnaker as usual by stuffing it into a large sailbag or turtle. Set up the spinnaker halyard on the expected leeward side of the head stay. Leave the three corners about two feet out of the top of the bag.For most races. If the mark is to be left to port. Near the mark on your final starboard tack. From its turning block on the windward transom (as determined by examining course and wind direction). (All spinnaker control lines should be led aft to the cockpit . The head of the sail is left free. around the shrouds. take the three corners of the sail and place them outside the hatch itself.ward hatch and eases the tack of the spinnaker toward the pole as the after guy is pulled taut. Similarly. outside of everything. It is very' important that the tack be pulled all the way to the pole to help keep the spinnaker outboard and in front of the genoa at hoisting. around the headstay. have your foredeck crew attach the spinnaker halyard by taking it off the mast and snapping it onto the head of the sail. You next attach the turtle to the door between the head and the forward cabin. It receives the halyard just before the actual set. The boat is now completely set for the raising of the spinnaker. Snap the guy into the outer end. lead the sheet from the leeward transom turning block forward. The foredeck crew raises the for. and attach to the other tack. Close the forward hatch over the three corners. under the genoa sheet. You can now preset the pole by placing it on the expected windward side. You are now ready to lead the sheet and guy. Catch the topping lift under a cleat at the base of the mast. The remaining steps are designed to be executed on the last two or three tacks as you approach the windward mark when the next leg calls for the spinnaker. being careful to put the foot in first and then the remainder such that the two iuffs or edges are kept on opposite sides of the bag without becoming crossed. Have him lightly tape the halyard to the lifeline about halfway toward the bow from the mast. the most likely setting is with pole to starboard. Next. or tape it there to keep it from tangling accidentally with the genoa while maneuvering before the start and on legs of the course before the spinnaker is needed. The foredeck crew has only been in front to the mast to tape the halyard to the lifeline. leading it under the genoa sheet to pen~nit tacking and jibing. being careful to keep it under the sheet and guy now lying on the deck. you can figure out when you will first need the spinnaker as soon as the race committee signals the course. It is usually the first leg that is more than 90 degrees off the wind direction.

We did most of our racing under the old CCA rule and did fairly well. light.Ted Kirchner (NETA) A Triton performs quite well in light air conditions as a direct result of its significant sail area. if you are looking for maximum performance there is still no substitute for a large (500 to 550 square feet) tri-radial head spinnaker for running or broad reaching. On the other hand. Hood recommends that our drifters be built with an overlap of about 1302. This performance can be enhanced considerably with light air specialty sails. a key ingredient to successful decision making and communication among the crew about and during the race. Dynac is probably what you should get. the cockpit crew immediately adjusts the sheet and guy to fill the sail. The foredeck man then lowers the genoa promptly.a new point of view . when the worker is the only sail that will wing out to windward and stand. as far as set is concerned. We had a very full. The higher. whidh is too long and wings poorly. Then we had the #2 . . pointed as high or footed as well in any kind of breeze when this sail was set. It has more drive and beauty than the working jib. we consider our re-cut genoa our prettiest and most useful cruising sail. Finally. However. and pole with its control lines. a large 180% or more drifter made with a 1. sheet. The old working jib is then used only in exceptionally hard winds or for reaching with the wind almost on the beam. the thinking on drifters has changed considerably over the last five years. shorter clew makes it a better reaching sail than the original.Reid A. It was a winner for many years. no Triton ever passed us to windward. good for anything under about 8 or 10 knots apparent wind. it doesn't have battens to fool with.about 85% or 90% full size. If you do not have or plan a spinnaker for off the wind sailing.alongside the base of the mast.5 oz. This technique substantially reduces movement of the crew at the windward mark by presetting the guy. tl Genoa with a stretchy luff. you will note that it wings better on the spinnaker pole than the #1 genoa. for windward sailing in light air. Drifters . This makes the finest cruising sail you could own. #2 GENOA . cut flat and of cloth of about the same weight as the mainsail. This sail would afford considerable area while reaching and running while still providing reasonable windward performance. its clew is now high enough so the helmsman can see under it. Dunn The #2 Genoa is under-rated. ***************** SAILS If you buy a new genoa. As you can gather. He now comes aft to stand by the halyard. consider having a foot or two cut off the "dead" foot and leach of the old one. It also involves the whole crew in planning the legs of the course before the start. which he raises smartly as the bow is abreast of the mark. and it is a good efficient sail because of its size and because cutting the dead cloth from it has rejuvenated it.

This storm jib is large enough to give good handling characteristics and easy jib sheet tending in breezes of 20-30K with full or reefed main. Triton U125. He cuts the jib to lead to the working jib leads.·we have used the storm jib alone. However. We use those sheets and blocks for other purposes around the boat. are without terrors. the weather helm is not too bad. All would find a storm jib a joy. in 1964. This sail would be constructed using 1. This plan was drawn to scale for SOBRAON. this clew is positioned. If the main is kept good and flat with traveller and vang and a tight downhaul. a fixed boom makes a good overhead hand rail when you stand up in the cockpit during rough sailing. and handling the boat is greatly simplified. before his famous family cruise to Bermuda. Storm sails. (See Plate 1) When planning your sail inventory. We use ours with the full mainsail sometimes on a windy day. The storm jib just flits over when you come about. ft. A jib with a trisail in 35K wind is tame and simple. A storm trisail of 75 sq. despite the small size of this storm jib. The larger sails were designed for another Triton. I think. with full or reefed main. Also. With the genoa winches. Any good sailmaker knows how to cut storm sails. with one sheet to each spinnaker block on the quarter. and as a matter of fact. and up. Finally. . Hood found that the 130% overlap is about the most effective and has the potential to move the boat as well if not better than a 150% or 1602 genoa that may have been built years ago. Dorwin reported that the jib was so small that it lacked sufficient drive for anything but a whole gale. Most owners do not need a storm trisail. Dynac cloth with a wire luff and would have two or three hanks to attach to the forestay. The small sails were those for Dorwin Teague's OLE'. Furthermore. If you are going to order sails.5 oz. is a good compromise size for the Triton. use single jib sheets. and they all have the Triton sail plan from which to design. you don't need double jib sheets. we selected the larger jib and the smaller trisail We have used the two together on a few occasions for day sails on brilliant NW days of about 30-40K. works out fine. the boom menace is out of action.. Further. and had a marvelous time. coming about. the less likely the sail is to fill properly. etc. About 55 sq. the blocks are a menace to one's head and face under such conditions. now is the time. ft. a storm trisail makes a lamb of the Triton. Thus. as the double ones furnished with working jibs tend to snarl terribly in coming about in a strong breeze. put a storm jib in your long-range plans. on many occasions each year. they are so small that stowage is no problem. jibing. when the wind is howling. you've got too much sail up. If the winch isn't strong enough for one person to handle. whereas even a working jib thunders and sometimes fouls and is a real handful in a strong breeze. Skippers who want to extend their sailing capability into the heavier wind velocities will be interested in the following layouts for storm jib and storm trisail. #8. The trisail is led like a jib. It just flits over onto the other sheet. before the sailmakers get jammed up with Spring deliveries.Under true drifting conditions you are asking the wind to support the weight of a clew and the further aft. For SOBRAON. With trisail up. if you plan to sail occasionally in winds of 35K and over.

PLATE 1 Reducing Sail on a Triton As all experienced Triton sailors know. and it is not necessary with a Triton to head for a snug harbor the . strongly constructed and rigged for safe operation by a competent skipper and crew in winds at least up to 50K. The trisail head is set to the main halyard.************ The trisail is sheeted like a jib. The sailmaker attaches wire pendants to jib head and tack permanently. This is not to recommend that a skipper should try his luck under such conditions without thorough practice and experience. However. The sailmaker cuts the jib to sheet to the normal working jib leads. The trisail tack is attached by spare line to the gooseneck. if sailed properly. as well as readiness for the worst should you purposely plan to risk such sailing conditions. Storm sails add to their capability and fun. the Triton is an excellent heavy weather boat. the boat can take it. led to the quarter blocks normally used for spinnaker sheets. Tritons are known as capable heavy weather boats. so that your normal jib halyard hoists the jib to design position with normal position of your jib halyard.

) It takes good crew to handle a full genoa in 18-25K to windward. or just day-sailing) and his auxiliary equipment. some of our most enjoyable sailing has been experienced with winds in the 20-30K range and even higher gusts. but would reef before switching from the II genoa. in increasing winds. II genoa. cruising. ft. steering. Lee Moore (7/8 rig) in Eastern waters. He will develop his own formula depending on the capabilities of his crew. Full main and genoa Wind Strength 0-18 . on day race. In racing. hoisted on spinnaker stem head (but not hanked). One or 2 jibs and the other wung on the pole. To enjoy sailing under these stronger wind conditions. and I then know that I won't have to go to the fore. the earlier and deeper you should reef.with recording an outline of the procedures followed by two experienced skippers. It eliminates jibing worries. a storm trisail leads is a great ally. Both are almost selftending. In distance races sail reduction or changing is more practical. his objectives (racing.). and luffing in the gusts.deck again. ft. I frequently go direct to the storm jib (55 sq. but it wins on puffy round-the-buoy races. large spinnaker (555 sq. If it is blowing 3OK we usually start out cruising with storm jib and storm trisail. yet retains maneuverability. The following tables will provide a general guide to the sail combinations we use at various wind strengths. and Dick Marshall (mast. and tacked to How soon to reef the mainsail depends on several questions: How experienced are you and crew? Do you have a traveler and claw gear for vanging after reefing? The more negative the answers. From Dick Marshall: (On 7/8 rig. I first switch down to the working jib. eases can be set. going to windward: Sail Combination A. On a long run downwind in rough sea. sheeted to spinnaker reduces yaw.head rig) in Pacific Northwest waters. adding sail later if warranted.minute white caps appear on your favorite sailing water. one normally halyard. ft. (On 7/8 rig reef main peak to around the jib stay tang to keep even strain on rig.) and keep full mainsail. For making more speed and distance. a Triton skipper should know and practice the basic steps in shortening sail. In an effort to be helpful to the "average" Triton skipper.a real winner. Some new gold plate ocean racers are adopting 7/8type rigs for improved heavy weather handling.). Weather helm is kept reasonable by flattening the main with 15-to-1 vang and traveler all the way down. The 7/8 rig Triton is fully competitive in fresh and strong breezes -. working jib. First. Indeed. I normally carry full sail regardless. Our sail inventory consists of a main. and small spinnaker (360 sq. we are here. From Lee Moore: When cruising in freshening breezes.

When you heel in excess. often breaks the battens. Several masts have been lost by various masthead types in our area due to spreader failure in this configuration. Full main and working jib 18-25 C. Also we ease the pole forward and carry the spinnaker more behind the mainsai1 for the same reason. we generally avoid the temptation to use a reefed main and %1 genoa. We have had several long downwind runs under The boat handles very well and is relatively in winds of 3OK plus and is not difficult to reached speeds of 8 knots surfing under main main and small spinnaker. Second. In config. C. the boom vang and traveler are used to flatten the main more as the wind strengthens. and can broach any type craft if allowed to "get away" from the helmsman inexperienced in such wild headsail In downwind work. The masthead Triton appears to be very competitive downwind from 0-25 and can actually hold its own with many larger boats. we have no vang. They are used as much as possible in 8. as well aS the boat's course -. B.5 oz spinnaker small spinnaker genoa (on pole or reaching) working jib Wind Strength 0-15 15-20 20-28 25-30 28-32 30-40 F. you are not only hard on the crew.dead down. and we use the pole to eliminate the problem.wind or reaching. or C.uration E· when dead downwind. going downwind: Sail Combination A. In C. *** Builder Ev Pearson told an NETA meeting that a Triton should be reefed when it starts to heel over 18 degrees. We have alone and 8. E. our sail combinations are less definite as they depend on sea conditions and wind. It will surf handle while surfing. When in B. The boat requires a lot of helmwork in B.B. First Batten reefed main and working jib 25-30 D. the working jib tends to collapse and refill as the boat rolls. Second Batten reefed main and working jib 30-35 In A.6 knots surfing with . Full main only . easy on the helm. but this does not bother us as the main has most of the draft rolled out of it on the first or second turn. D. because this combination places severe strains on the masthead rig. Full Full Full Full Full main main main main main and and and and and big 3/4 oz spinnaker big 1. we lead both sheet and guy through match blocks on the forward end of the (long) genoa tracks (near shrouds) to dampen out roll. This is hard on the sail. and C. and D. you are losing ground! You make excessive leeway and can full main alone in heavy winds. With a masthead rig.

the topping lift is set. Richmond VA For cruising.actually lose speed against a properly trimmed boat. The Cunningham hook is transferred to the reefing tack and the Cunningham tackle is taken up. "TALISMAN". There are a number of systems for "Jiffy Reefing" a foot or so off the main. lest the hook fall loose. #561. using a vice and a pair of vice-grip pliers and a hamner. Reefing . A similar fitting known as an "S-Hook" is now commercially available in supply catalogues. This means that the reefing line has to go to a cringle some four or five feet above the boom. Slack off the reefing line and hook the clew reefing hook into the cringle. the main halyard and Cunningham are slacked. The line has been permanently woven through the eye of the hook which hangs at the outer end of the boom. These fittings are similar to mine except that they do not have the important 90 degree twist between the eye and the hook. Under full sail. there are times when a Triton is most comfortable with a deeper reef than that used in racing. reefed to Ist batten Main. Back at the mast. suggests "Reef Early and Often. A permanent line flaps and chafes if left in place and it's a tough job to thread it through the cringle under way.From Reid Dunn. full Main. Here is a system for heavier reefing from a cruising sailor. you sweat in the reefing line to complete the furl. We use one such hook at the tack and one at the clew. The solution for "CA IRA" has been to develop a hook of stainless steel. reefed to 2nd batten #1 genoa Working jib Storm jib Storm trisail Spinnaker 7/8-rig sloop(sq ft) Masthead sloop (sq ft) 215 217 145 144 98 94 240 307 135 150 55 55 55 55 490 555 Area 455 350 270 %of Full 100% 77 59 Area 524 367 272 %of Full 100% 70 52 Sail combinations Full main & #1 genoa Full main & Working jib Full main & Storm jib . On reefing. Mine was home-made. The hook is about 3" long with a closed eye at one end and an open hook at the other. Dave Sykes. It is important to keep tension on the reefing line. Leigh Abell developed a good system which was modified and written up by Paul Brent of TODSF and published in the December '78 "Trumpet. TRITON SAIL CHART Individual sails Main. the reefing line is pulled taut along the boom. The hook at the tack is regularly used for the Cunningham downhaul.

Main reefed to Ist batten & #1 genoa 385 85 Main reefed to Ist batten & Working jib 280 62 Main reefed to Ist batten & Main reefed to 2nd batten & Main reefed to 2nd batten & Main reefed to 2nd batten & Storm trisail & Working jib Storm trisail & Storm jib Full main & Spinnaker Storm jib #1 genoa Working jib Storm jib 200 338 233 153 190 110 705 44 74 51 34 42 25 155 451 86 294 56 199 401 244 149 205 110 772 38 77 47 28 39 21 147 .


to damp the oscillation and to eliminate "twist" at the top of the mainsail beyond 85" to wind. RHYTHMIC ROLL. to keep him from falling with the tiller during a wild roll until the vessel can be brought under better control. tending to bury in her own bow-wave while the canvas above tries to press her under. To some extent one can compensate for sag in the forestay by cutting the upper part of the genoa with a hollow luff. 3. hollow leech). Sag in the forestay. easing or eliminating the roll. If this proves to be insufficient for a large sail in a strong wind. leading her and lifting her by the nose. If the camber of the foresail is too large or if it is sheeted too hard. excessive convergence of the slot produces a vel. The desired aerodynamic effect will be obtained only when the slot between the foresail and the mainsail is of a suitable shape.out the mainsail being backwinded. from driving too hard.sometimes to a frightening extent. It is necessary to have the same general shape at all heights. 2. 5. causing backwinding of the main.ocity component perpendicular to the surface of the mainsail. Position of the fairleads. Trim of the mainsail and foresail sheets. so to speak. the leech also may be cut with a hollow. Shape of the foresail (high cut jib. low cut genoa. The obvious solutions to this problem when cruising are either (1) alter course. However. particularly spinnaker. The mainsail should be vanged down hard and trimmed back more than normal for running. Let the spinnaker way forward on both guy and sheet to fly high and ahead. and particularly with following quartering sea. you can deal with the problem with proper sail handling. Ocean racers get this too. When running downwind with too much sail up. if you are racing and wish to continue on course without reducing sail.SAIL INTERACTION The most important condition for effective interaction between the two sails is that the foresail should be trimmed in such a way that a substantial increase in air velocity occurs in the slot with. Getting the mainsail off or heavily reefed is . so the hull is exceeding her natural hull speed. any yacht may commence rhythmic roll -. The helmsman must be extremely well braced during these maneuvers. Camber of the mainsail and foresail. The shape of the slot depends upon: 1. or (2) reduce sail. 4. hollow luff. One frequently finds that the ineffectiveness of a foresail can be attributed to its having the correct profile near the foot but an excessive camber higher up.

5.. I offer the following observations: 1.. Therefore. Pacific Grove California 93950 To order IMPROVEMENT BULLETINS NTA members. When the wind comes it's a quick Genoa furl (drop along the lifelines) and raise the jib (all within two minutes).. 3. small drum diameters just don't do the job.$5.. ********************* NATIONAL TRITON ASSOCIATION 243 Asilomar Blvd. Manufacturers tell you that their #250 unit (up to 250 square feet of sail) will work on a Triton.the sweetest solution as the jib being forward will tend to hold her on course.. The larger drum units have the room to hold line in place of wire. On my particular unit. The fact is that it's marginal in size. off it came... ********************* Roller Furl .. In talking to other people with roller furl and from my own experience. A bonus here is the increased bearing size which comes with the larger unit (no binding).What Type and Size Frank Alla (NETA) When I bought the "Northwind" in 1973.. It was always a problem unit. it had a Merriman unit sized for around 250 square feet of sail.00 Non-members. I do not partly furl my Genoa in heavy The storm jib during a cruise can be left hanked on the forestay bag with the sheets lead to the jib tracks. I prefer an all rope tail on the drum (5/16" Marlow pre-stretch) as my old wire and rope tail always experienced jams on the wire section. Remember to attach the unit with a toggle to prevent binding. 2. especially in a blow. The replacement for it was a Shaefer #600 drum and X450 upper swivel which have never given a bit of trouble. Drum diameter is where you get the power. go one or two sizes over the recommended size on the drum. so when my new sail did not work well with it. 4.$2. and the reduced amount and height of sail will reduce speed and the pressure from above.00 ..

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