DIY

Bed Frame
Step 2: Figure out what size your mattress is. I wouldn’t recommend making this bed frame for a king-sized bed - I don’t know that 4 casters would be sufficient to hold the weight. If you are buying a new one, make sure you actually measure it - don’t assume anything. Write down the measurements here. Length: Width:

**Important note: Some mattress manufacturers will not honour their warranties if it is found that the mattress in question was used without an approved boxspring unit. I am not responsible for any financial or physical problems that may arise from the fabrication or use of the following bed frame. Proceed at your own risk.**

Step 1: Read this tutorial thoroughly before embarking on this project. Make sure you understand what all the materials are and for heaven’s sake, always always always measure twice, cut once! Don’t use power tools you don’t know how to use. Ever. Ask for assistance or get someone with experience to do it.

Step 3: Sit down with a calculator and this sheet and figure out your materials. THEN go and buy them. Make sure you have everything BEFORE you start. The following pages contain diagrams for the lumber you will need (make sure to pick out your own lumber, so you’re getting the nicest stuff), but you will also require:

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Fasteners: * Note: numbers depend on size of bed - when in doubt, get more than you think you’ll need ✦ 4 x 5” screws (No. 10) ✦ 18 x 3” screws (No. 10) ✦ 100 x 2 1/2” screws (No. 10) ✦ 100 x 1 1/2” screws (No. 10) ✦ 20 x “cup” or “finishing” washers sized for No. 10 screws Casters: ✦ 4 x 6” swiveling casters (with brakes), or other suitable furniture legs (nonmarking, so as not to damage flooring) Varnish: ✦ One small (quart) can of water-based acrylic polyurethane ✦ An appropriate bristle brush to apply (consult the paint expert at your local hardware store) Sandpaper (a variety of grit levels) Tools: ✦ Pencil ✦ Measuring tape ✦ Electrical sander or sandpaper holder ✦ Power drill with appropriate screwdriver bit to suit screws ✦ Drill bit suitable for pilot holes (refer to recommended pilot hole size on box of screws) ✦ Circular saw for cutting lumber to size ✦ Jigsaw

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Model #: 15010020501 Manufacturer: Richelieu www.richelieu.com

1 1/2” 2x2’s (slat supports) Note: 2x2’s are 1 1/2” x 1 1/2” . and keep the leftover pieces .Note: Lumber comes in a variety of lengths. Sand and varnish these before assembling. following the manufacturer’s specifications.more like 9 1/4” x 1 1/2” Note: Varnish on these is optional . 2x10’s (frame) Note: 2x10’s are not actually 2” x 10” . . However.you can use them later. you should sand them. Minimize waste.they will be under the mattress and you won’t see them.

1 1/2” x 1 1/2” notch at each end (create. Some math will be required. using a jigsaw) 2x4 (intermediate slat support) Note: 2x4’s are 1 1/2” x 3 1/2” . on your part. However. 1x3’s (slats) Note: 1x3’s are 3/4” x 2 1/2” Varnish on these is optional . You’ll be spacing them with 1 1/2” gaps between.they will be under the mattress and you won’t see them.Note: The number of slats will depend on the size of bed frame you are making. to maximize your $$ and minimize your waste. you should sand them to protect your mattress and linens.

Create a pilot hole for each screw (at about 10” intervals) and use the 2 1/2” screws. .Step 4: Start by attaching the slat supports to the frame members. Screw through the 2x2 and into the 2x10.

as shown. The bottom screw is 3” long. through the 2x2. Screw into it from each end of the frame.Step 5: Start fastening the frame together. . Step 6: Fasten the intermediate slat support in the middle of the frame. and 2” into the 2x4. and goes through the 2x10 and into the 2x4 only. using the 3” screws and cup washers. The 5” screw (top screw) should go through the 2x10.

you may end up with some slats spaced closer together at one end. The slat spacing might not be perfect .Step 7: Fasten the slats to the slat supports. making sure that you drill pilot holes first (or you’ll split the 1x3’s). pilot holes 1/4” gap at each end of every slat 1 1/2” gap between slats . That’s fine (you’re just getting a bit more support there). Use the 1 1/2” screws and place 2 screws per end of each slat.

Just remember that is half the thickness of the 2x10. so you have access to the underbelly. This is for personal and non-profit use only. using 1 1/2” screws. provided that they are large enough to provide full support for the caster. Always always always follow manufacturers’ instructions and specifications. Alternatively. Place the wood in the corner of the frame and fasten. because it’s thinner. You can trim this portion of the block. The triangle should give you plenty of room to fasten the caster. when you cut the frame members? You can use them to provide a fastening plate for each caster. Also. You remember those 2x10 leftovers you got. though.Step 8: Flip the whole bed frame over. it’s heavy and awkward) and you’re done! You don’t need a boxspring for this bed . using the 2 1/2” screws. You may want to add a little corner brace to support the diagonal edge. And be careful while you’re building this . Make sure that the casters can swivel freely. Enlist the help of a friend and flip the bed frame over (careful.the slats support the mattress. Photos and content are © At My Mother’s Knee. Remember what I said at the beginning about warranties. so your bed will sit lower.nobody wants you to get hurt. you can use a piece of 3/4” plywood. it won’t have the same strength. Fasten the casters to the blocks. trimmed to fit in the corner. to keep things tidy. .

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