.archivetempMANUAL DE REPARACION Scorpio Pik Up L6 LHD PDF

Repair Manual MAN-00196
SUV/SC/DC L6 July 2012/Rev 1
REPAIR MANUAL
SUV, SC/DC L6
MAN-00196
RELEASED BY –
TECHNICAL PUBLICATION CELL

MAHINDRA & MAHINDRA LTD.
Rev1 – JULY 2012

www.teknetmahindra.com
ALL INFORMATION CONTAINED IN THIS MANUAL IS MOST UP-TO-DATE AT THE TIME OF PUBLICATION.
HOWEVER, SPECIFICATIONS AND PROCEDURES ARE SUBJECT TO CHANGE WITHOUT NOTICE. THIS
© 2012IS
MANUAL Mahindra
STRICTLY& Mahindra
MEANTLtd. All rights
FOR reserved. This
RESTRICTED book may not
INTERNAL be reproducedWITHIN
CIRCULATION or copied,M&M
in whole or in
AUTHORIZED
part, without
DEALER SERVICEthe CENTERS.
wri en permission of Mahindra & Mahindra Ltd.
The repair methods given by the manufacturer in this document are based on the technical specifications, current at the time of release. The methods may be modified as a result of changes introduced by the
manufacturer in the production of the various component units and accessories from which the vehicles are manufactured. The reproduction, translation, transmission, in part of or whole of the present
document, are prohibited without the prior written consent of Mahindra & Mahindra Ltd. The use of this document by any person other than the trained personnel, at the Authorized Service Centre of Mahindra
& Mahindra Ltd., will amount to unauthorized use and shall be liable for penalty/prosecution© 2012 Mahindra & Mahindra Ltd.
About this Repair Manual
This Repair Manual is published for the information and guidance of the service technician of
authorized MAHINDRA & MAHINDRA dealers to help them provide efficient and correct
service and maintenance on Mahindra vehicle. It contain information on the operation and
maintenance of the SUV/ SC & DC L6 as well as descriptions of the major units and
their functions in relation to the other components of the System.
To ensure customer satisfaction with Mahindra products, proper service and maintenance by
Mahindra Dealer Technicians is essential. Technician should know and understand the
content of this manual before starting actual work on the vehicle. The copy of this manual
should be kept in a handy place on the shopfloor for quick and easy reference.
This manual includes special notes, important points, service data, precautions that are
needed for the maintenance, adjustments, service, removal and installation of Engine and
other aggregate components.
All information, illustrations and specifications contained in this manual are based on the
latest product information available at the time of publication. Dealers will be provided
Technical Service Bulletins or Supplementary Notes in case modifications done in future.
All rights are reserved to make changes at any time without prior notice.
Pictures, photographs used in this manual are illustrations only and may pertain to some
variation than actual in the vehicle.
Table of Content
• How to use this manual……………………………………………………………………….………….

• General Information…………………………………………………………………………….………….
• Vehicle Specification…………………………………………………………….…………….………….
• Engine……………………………………………………………….................…………………………
• Air Intake System……………………………………………………………………..………………….………….
• Cooling System………………………………………………………………………….………………….………….
• Fuel System…….………………………………………………………………………..………………….………….
• Emission Control System………………………………………………………….………………….………….
• Clutch……………………………………………….………………................…………………………
• Transmission…………………………………………………………………………………………………….
• Transfer Case……………………………………………………………………………………..……………
• Propeller Shaft…………………………………………………………………….. …………..……………
• Front Axle (4WD)………………………………………………………………………………..……………
• Rear Axle……………..………………………………………………………………………………………….
• Steering System…………………………………………………………………….…………….………….
• Front Suspension………………………………………………………………………………………………
• Rear Suspension (Multilink Type).………………………………..……..……………………….
• Rear Suspension (Rigid Type)……..………………………………………..……………………….
• Brake System ………………………………………………………………………..…………… ………….
• Anti-Lock Braking System……………………………………………………………………………….
• Wheels and Tyres…………………………………………………………………..……………………….
• Chassis…………………………………………………………………………………….…………….………….
• HVAC……..……………………………………………………………………………………………..………….
• SRS (Airbag)…………………………………………………………………………………………. ………….
• Appendices…………………………………………………………………………………………….………….
How to use this manual
There is table of contents for the whole manual on the second page of this manual, where the
required section can be easily found. Also, there is content on the first page of each section, where
the main objects in that section are listed. Each section is further divided in to sub-sections –
• Description section gives an overview of the functioning of the system.

• Construction, Operation and Identification section gives details of construction of System, its
operation and serial number identification.
• Care of the system details the maintenance and adjustments, if any, to be carried out on the
system to keep it functioning at its best performance level.
• Trouble shooting section details a generic trouble shooting for major problems.
• In-car repair outlines the procedure to carryout minor repairs/adjustments without removing the
aggregate from the vehicle.
• Dismantling/overhauling section covers the detailed process and procedures to be followed,
while repairing the system. This is generally carried out after removing the aggregate/system from
the vehicle.
• Inspection section gives information on how and what are all components to be inspected.
• Assembly section covers the detailed process and procedures to be followed, while repairing the
system.
• Repair & maintenance data provides information on the dimensions of a new part as well as how
much wear can be tolerated on a specific part, respectively.
• Technical Specification section provides information on the dimensions; service and wear data of
system components.
• Torque Specification is the specified torque values for all crucial fasteners in the Component/
vehicle system.
• Mahindra Special Tools (MST) lists out the special tools should be used for the service and repair
work described in that section.
• Appendices are provided in the last section of this manual. It includes of Abbreviations, measuring
units, Lubrication chart, Greasing points, Do’s & Don’ts, Vehicle preservation notes and List of
MST’s applicable to this model.
The proper performance of service is essential for both the safety of the technician and the efficient
functioning of the system. The service methods in this repair manual are described in such a manner
that the service may be performed safely and accurately. Service varies with the procedures used, the
skills of the technician and the tools & Parts available. Accordingly, anyone using service procedures,
tools or parts which are not specifically recommended by MAHINDRA & MAHINDRA must first
completely satisfies himself that neither his safety nor the vehicle’s safety will be jeopardized by the
service method selected.
General Informations
1. Health and Safety Precautions –
Toxic Substances
Many liquids and other substances used are poisonous, so care should be taken while handling the
same. It is also advisable to keep all the substances away from open wounds. These substances
include anti-freeze, brake fluid, fuel, windscreen washer additives, air conditioning refrigerant,
lubricants and various adhesives. These toxic substances are irritant to the skin, eyes, nose and throat.
They can cause burns and destroy ordinary protective clothing. Wear a suitable protective apron,
gloves and goggles. Do not breathe the mists. Make sure that the access to eye wash bottles, soap and
shower are readily available.
Air Conditioning Refrigerant
Instructions given by the manufacturer must be followed. The air conditioning system contains
refrigerant under high pressure. Severe personal injury may result due to improper service
procedures. Repairs should only be performed by a qualified service personnel. Avoid breathing the
refrigerant or refrigerant oil vapor or mist. Exposure may irritate the eyes, nose and throat. Wear
suitable protective gloves and goggles for eye protection while servicing the air conditioning
refrigerant system. If eye contact occurs, immediately seek medical attention.
Adhesives and Sealers
A number of renowned products are recommended in this manual for use during maintenance and
repair work. They should be available locally at garage equipment suppliers. If there is any problem in
obtaining the supplies, contact the company for advice and the nearest dealer. Cleanliness should be
observed where necessary, for example disposable paper covering benches should be dispensed from
applicators and secondary containers should be labeled appropriately.
Antifreeze
Antifreeze is an ethylene glycol base coolant, which is harmful if swallowed or inhaled. If swallowed,
drink two glasses of water and induce vomiting. If inhaled, move to fresh air area. Seek medical
attention immediately. Do not store in open or unmarked containers. Wash skin and clothing
thoroughly after coming in contact with ethylene glycol. Keep out of reach of children. To dispose the
glycol base coolant properly, contact your dealer or government agency for the location of collection
center in your area. Do not open a cooling system when the engine is at operating temperature or hot
under pressure, which may result in personal injury. These products should not be used in any cooling
or industrial water system that is connected or linked to general, food preparation or drinking water
supplies.
Asbestos
Breathing asbestos dust may cause lung problems or in some cases, cancer. Asbestos is used in brake
& clutch linings, transmission brake bands and gaskets. The use of drum cleaning units, vacuum
cleaning or damp wiping is preferred. Asbestos dust waste should be dampened first, and placed in a
sealed container and marked for safe disposal. If any cutting or drilling is attempted on materials
containing asbestos the item should be dampened and only hand tools or low speed power tools are
to be used.
Chemical Materials
Chemical materials such as solvents, sealers, adhesives, paints, resin foams, battery acids, antifreeze,
brake fluids, fuels, oils and grease should always be stored and handled with care. They may be
poisonous, harmful, acidic or highly flammable and give rise to harmful vapors and dust. The effects of
excessive exposure to chemicals may be immediate or delayed, temporary or permanent, life
threatening or may decrease life expectancy.
Corrosion Protection Materials
These materials are varied and the manufacturer‘s instructions must be followed. They may contain
solvents, resins or petroleum products. Skin and eye contact should be avoided. They should only be
sprayed in conditions of adequate ventilation and not in confined spaces.
Engine Oil
Prolonged and frequent contact with the engine or motor oil will result in removal of natural fats from
the skin, leading to dryness and irritation. An used engine oil contains potentially harmful
contaminants which may cause skin cancer. Adequate means of skin protection and washing facilities
should be provided.
Transmission Fluids
Transmission and power steering fluids contain additives which have the potential to cause irritation
or even skin disease when prolonged or repeated skin contact with the fluid occurs. These fluids are
used for vehicle initial fill and service purposes. Draw attention to the existence of Material Safety
Datasheets (MSDS's) for the fluids. These MSDS's contain detailed information on hazards and
appropriate controls.
Fuel Handling Precautions
This information is issued only for basic guideline. Fuel vapor is highly flammable, and in restricted
spaces it is highly explosive and poisonous. The vapor is heavier than air and will always fall to the
lowest level, which flows throughout the workshop by air current. Even a small spillage of fuel is very
dangerous. Always have fire extinguisher containing foam CO2 gas or powder close at hand while
handling fuel or dismantling fuel systems, and in areas where the fuel containers are stored.
• Always disconnect the vehicle battery before working on the fuel system.
• Avoid prolonged and frequent skin contact with oils, particularly engine oils.
• Properly ventilate the area so that the flammable fumes do not become concentrated.
• Never smoke or have an open flame in the work area.
• Always check for leaks after fuel system repairs.
• Clean up fuel spills immediately with absorbent materials, by using proper disposal procedures.
• Wear protective clothing, including resistant gloves wherever required.
• Do not put oily rags in your pockets.
• Avoid wearing contaminated clothes.
• Overalls must be cleaned regularly.
• First-aid treatment must be given immediately for open cuts and wounds.
Do not operate the engine for unlimited period of time without proper exhaust ventilation. Keep the
work area well ventilated and free of any flammable materials.
Special care should be taken when handling any flammable or toxic materials such as gasoline,
refrigerant gas, etc.
Fuel Transfer
The transfer of fuel from the vehicle fuel tank must be carried out in a well ventilated area. An
approved transfer tank must be used according to the transfer tank manufacturer’s instructions and
local regulations, including attention to grounding of tanks.
Fuel Tank Repair
The fuel tank should not be repaired in case of damage and has to be replaced with a new tank.
Fire
Many materials related with the repair of vehicles are highly flammable. Some give off poisonous or
dangerous fumes if burnt. Observe strict fire safety standards while storing and handling flammable
materials or solvents particularly near the electrical equipment or during welding processes. Make
sure a suitable fire extinguisher is available before using the welding or heating equipment.
To avoid severe burns:
• Avoid contact with hot metal parts. Do not remove the degassing tank cap, when the engine is
hot.
• Dispose or recycle drained oil or solvent used for cleaning parts in a proper manner.
• Do not try to top off the fuel tank after the fuel pump nozzle shuts off automatically.
• Continued refueling may cause fuel overflow, resulting in fuel spray and possibly fire.
• Clean all disassembled parts in the designated liquid or solvent prior to inspection or
assembly.
• Replace oil seals, gaskets, packing’s, O-rings, locking washers, cotter pins, self-locking nuts,
etc. with new ones.
• Replace the inner and outer races of tapered roller bearings and needle bearings as a set.
• Arrange the disassembled parts in accordance with their assembled locations and sequence.
• Do not touch the terminals of electrical components which use microcomputers.
• Static electricity may damage internal electronic components.

• After disconnecting vacuum or air hoses, attach a tag to indicate the proper connection.
• Use only the fluids and lubricants specified in this manual.
• Use approved bonding agent, sealants or their equivalents when required.
• Use hand tools, power tools (disassembly only) and recommended special tools which are
specified for safe and efficient service repairs.
• When repairing the fuel, oil, and water, vacuum or exhaust systems check all affected lines for
leaks.
First Aid
It is desirable for someone in the workshop to be trained in first-aid procedures. Splashes to the eye
should be flushed carefully with clean water for at least ten minutes. Soiled skin should be washed
with soap and water. In case of cold burns from alternative fuels place the affected area in cold water.
Individuals affected by inhalation of gases and fumes should be immediately moved to fresh air area.
If there is no improvement, consult a doctor immediately. If liquids are swallowed accidentally,
consult a doctor giving him the information on the container or label.
Health Protection
• Avoid extended and repeated contact with oils, particularly used engine oils.
• Wear protective clothing, including resistant gloves where possible.
• Do not put oily rags in your pockets.
• Avoid contaminating clothes, particularly underpants with oil.
• Heavily soiled clothing and oil-impregnated footwear should not be worn. Overalls must be
cleaned regularly.
• First aid treatment should be obtained immediately for open cuts and wounds.
• Use barrier creams, applying them before each work period removes oil from the skin.
• Wash with soap and water to ensure that all oil is removed (skin cleansers and nail brushes
will help).
• Preparations containing lanolin replace the natural skin oils which have been removed.
• Do not use gasoline, kerosene, diesel fuel, gas oil, thinners or solvents for cleaning skin.
• If skin disorders develop, obtain medical advice without delay.
• Where practical, degrease components prior to handling.
• Where there is a risk of eye contact, eye protection should be worn, for example, chemical
goggles or face shields and an eye wash facility should be provided.
Guidance to safe working
Always follow the safety instructions provided by the respective manufacturers for all the equipment,
tools, safety gears etc. used in the workshop.
2. Precautions for repairing a vehicle in the workshop
When working on the vehicle in the workshop, always follow the below mentioned procedure:
• Make sure the work area is ventilated and well lit. When it is necessary to run the engine
indoors, make sure that the the area has adequate ventilation to disperse exhaust gases such
as carbon monoxide and other fumes.
• Do not perform service work in areas where combustible materials can come in contact with a
hot exhaust system. When working with toxic or flammable materials, make sure that the area
you work in is well-ventilated.
• Make sure that the work area such as floors, workbenches, tools are clean and free from debris
and clutter. Keep work area clean, dry and well organized.
• Be sure that all necessary tools and measuring equipment are available before starting any
work. Keep tools and parts off the floor or in a trolley.
• Use Mahindra Special Tools where ever applicable and recommended.
• Do not allow other people near the vehicle during servicing.
• When it is necessary to do service work with the engine running, make sure that the parking
brake is set fully and the transmission is in Neutral. Keep hands, hair, clothing, tools, etc. away
from the fan and belts when the engine is running.
• Do not let fuel, coolant and other fluids spill over electrical and hot vehicle parts.
• Avoid repeated contact with fluids.
• The battery should be disconnected while, working on the engine, underneath the vehicle or if
the vehicle is raised.
• Cover seats and carpets, wear clean overalls and wash hands or wear gloves before working
inside the vehicle.
• Avoid spilling hydraulic fluid or battery acid on paint work. Wash off with water immediately if
this occurs. Use Polythene sheets to protect carpets and seats.
• While using the welding equipment on the vehicle, keep a suitable fire extinguisher readily
available. Follow the recommended standard procedure before doing welding job.
• Make sure that the Transmission, Transfer Case, Oil/ Exhaust system has cooled down
sufficiently before attempting to remove any components, for your safety.
• Use correct lifting devices whenever raising a vehicle for service. Follow the instructions.
• Wear proper safety equipment as recommended and authorized for the job. Wear proper
hearing protection.
• Wear protective safety glasses/ goggles or face shields. Wear safety shoes.
• Wear correct work clothing, do not wear wrist watches, jewelry, rings, loose or hanging
apparel, such as ties, torn clothing, unzipped jackets that can catch on moving parts.
• New and used engine oil, Brake or Clutch oil, Radiator Coolant, Transmission and Differential
oils can be hazardous. Continuous contact with used engine oil has been found to cause [skin]
diseases. Brief contact with used oil may irritate skin. To minimize your exposure to used
engine oil, wear a long-sleeve shirt and moisture-proof gloves (such as dish washing gloves)
when changing engine oil. If engine oil contacts your skin, wash thoroughly with soap and
water.
• Recycle or properly dispose the used Coolant, oil and filters.
• Make sure that charged fire extinguishers are available in the workshop.
• Make sure a first Aid Kit is available in workshop.
Preparation before dismantling the vehicle parts
• Clean components and surrounding area prior to removal.

• Blank-off any openings exposed by component removal using masking tape.
• Using plastic caps or plugs immediately seal fuel, oil or hydraulic lines when separated to
prevent loss of fluid and entry of dirt.
• Close the open ends of oil ways, exposed by component removal with tapered hardwood
plugs or readily visible plastic plugs.
• Before dismantling the component, clean it thoroughly with a recommended cleaning agent.
Check that agent is suitable for all materials of the component.
• After a component is removed, place it in a suitable container/tray. Use a separate
container/tray for each component and its associated parts.
Dismantling of the vehicle parts
• Observe cleanliness while dismantling the components, particularly brake, fuel or hydraulic
system parts. A particle of dirt or cloth fragment can cause dangerous malfunction if trapped
inside the system.
• Blow out all tapped holes, crevices, oil ways and fluid passages with an air line. Ensure that
any O-rings used for sealing are correctly replaced or renewed.
• Use marking ink to identify mating parts and ensure correct reassembly. If a centre punch or
scriber is used they may initiate cracks or distortion of components.
• Label and separate the mating parts to prevent accidental interchange.
• Label parts which are to be renewed and requiring further inspection before being passed for
reassembly. Place these parts in separate containers.
• Do not discard a part due for renewal until it has been compared with the new part, to ensure
that its correct replacement has been obtained.
Environmental protection precaution
It is illegal to dispose used engine oil, engine coolant, brake fluid, transmission fluid, battery and
electrolyte transfer case oil, differential oil and power steering fluid in to the sewers, drains or into
waterways. Dispose the used oil through authorized waste disposal contractors, licensed waste
disposal sites or to the waste oil reclamation trade. Rubber and plastic parts should be disposed
through the authorized recycle centers and/or agencies. If you have doubt on disposal of any of the
above mentioned materials, contact your local authority for advice for disposal facilities.
Noise
Several operations may produce high noise levels, which might damage hearing. In these cases, proper
ear protection must be worn.
Accessories and Conversions
Do not fit unapproved accessories or conversions, as they could affect the safety of the vehicle.
Mahindra will not accept liability for death, personal injury or harm to property which may occur as a
direct effect of fitting non-approved accessories or conversions to the vehicle.
Fitment of non-approved accessories could lead to vehicle not performing as intended resulting in
personal injury or death in case of an accident.
Workshop Tools and Equipment
It is essential that all tools and equipment are maintained in good condition. Never use tools or
equipment for any purpose other than that for which they were designed. Never overload equipment
such as hoists, jacks, axle and chassis stands or lifting slings. Damage caused by overloading is not
always immediately apparent and may result in fatal failure when the equipment is used another time.
Do not use damaged tools or equipment, mainly high-speed equipment such as grinding wheels. The
damaged grinding wheel can break up without warning and cause serious injury. Wear suitable eye
protection when using the grinding or sand blasting equipment. Wear a suitable breathing mask when
using the abrasive blasting equipment, working with asbestos-based materials or while using the
spraying equipment. Make sure there is adequate ventilation to control dusts, mists and fumes.
Always maintain the tools in a neat and good condition for quality repairs. Always keep the tools and
equipment calibrated.
Hose Removal and Installation
• To prevent damage to rubber hoses, do not force open rubber hoses with the screwdriver.
• To reinstall rubber hoses securely, make sure that the hose length and direction is correct.
Hose Clamping
• If old rubber hose is re-used, install the hose clamp in its original position (at the groove in
which the old clamp is fixed). If there is a trace of tube bulging on the old rubber hose, align
the rubber hose accordingly.
• Discard old clamps, and replace with new ones.
Removal of Parts
While correcting a problem, try to determine its cause. Begin to work only after first learning which
parts & subassemblies need to be removed and disassembled for replacement or repair. After
removing the part, plug all holes and ports to prevent entering of foreign materials.
Disassembly of Parts
If the disassembly procedure is complex and requires many parts to be disassembled, all parts should
be temporarily marked in a place that will not affect their performance or external appearance and
identified so that reassembly can be performed with ease and efficiency.
Inspection during Removal/ Disassembly
When removed, each part should be carefully inspected for malfunctioning, deformation, damage,
and other problems.
Arrangement of Parts
All disassembled parts should be carefully arranged for reassembly. Be sure to separate or otherwise
identify the parts to be replaced from those that will be reused.
Cleaning of Parts
All parts to be reused should be carefully and thoroughly cleaned by using the appropriate cleaning
agent and method.
Using compressed air will cause dirt and other particles to fly out, and cause injury to the eyes, wear
protective goggles to avoid probable injury.
Reassembly
• Standard values, such as torques and certain adjustments, must be strictly adhered to while
reassembling the parts.
• If removed, these parts should be replaced with new ones:
1. Oil seals 4. Lock washers
2. O-rings 5. Nylon nut
3. Cotter pins
• Specified oil/lubricant should be applied to the moving components of parts.

• Specified oil or grease should be applied at the prescribed locations such as oil seals before
reassembly.
Adjustment
Use recommended/appropriate gauges and testers while making adjustments.
Rubber Parts and Tubing
Prevent fuel or oil from spilling on rubber parts or tubing.
Hose clamps
When reinstalling, position the hose clamp in the original location on the hose, and squeeze/tighten/
compress the clamp lightly to ensure better fit.
Bench Vise
When using a bench vise, use protective padding in the jaws of the vise to prevent damage to parts.
Component Cleaning
To prevent the ingress of dirt, accumulation of loose dirt and greasy deposits should be removed
before disconnecting or dismantling components or assemblies. Components should be thoroughly
cleaned using appropriate cleaning agent before inspection and prior to reassembly. Use Mahindra
recommended cleaning agents only.
Cleaning Methods:
• Dry cleaning. • Scraping off dirt with metal/wood scraper.
• Removal of loose dirt with brushes. • Wiping off dirt with a rag.
Wear eye protection while cleaning vehicle components with compressed air, a steam cleaner or
power washer. Failure to follow this instruction will result in personal injury.
• Various solvents are available which are suitable for component cleaning. All the components
should be cleaned only with appropriate solvents. Ensure that the solvent does not affect the
performance of the component as intended. Always follow the safety precautions
recommended by respective solvent manufacturer.
3. General Inspection
• Never inspect a component for wear or dimensional check unless it is absolutely clean.
• Slight smear of grease can conceal an incipient failure.
• When a component is to be checked dimensionally against figures quoted for it, use correct
equipment (surface plates, micrometers, dial gauges, etc.) in serviceable condition. Makeshift
checking equipment is dangerous.
• Reject a component if its dimensions are outside the quoted limits, or if damage is apparent. A
part may however be refitted if it’s critical dimensions are given to the prescribed size limits,
and is otherwise satisfactory.
• Legend of the Standard Operating Procedure Symbols
Symbol Denotation
set/ place
Locate/ show
Move/ Fit
Turn Clockwise
Turn anti-clockwise
• Legend of the Safety Symbols
Carefully read, understand and follow the safety symbols/ instructions given in this manual.
To emphasize information and procedures regarding safety, use, maintenance, etc., the following
symbols are used throughout the manual. DANGER, WARNING, CAUTION and NOTICE symbols are
given in this manual to alert the service technician to an area of potential hazard or to note
something of importance.
Any repairs related to safety or critical items such as the steering, brakes, suspension or the
supplementary restraint system should be carried out by a Mahindra dealer/ certified technician only.
Following correct service methods and repair procedures are essential for the safe, reliable operation
of vehicle as well as the personal safety of the individual while carrying out the work. This manual
cannot possibly predict all such variations and offer warning or cautions as to each. Deviation from the
instructions provided in this manual could lead to personal injury or damage to the vehicle.
Term/ Symbol Denotation

DANGER indicates an imminently hazardous
situation which, if not avoided, will result in
death or serious injury.
WARNING indicates a potentially hazardous

situation which, if not avoided, could result in
death or serious injury.
CAUTION indicates a potentially hazardous

situation which, if not avoided, may result in
minor or moderate injury.
CAUTION used without the safety alert

symbol indicates a potentially hazardous
situation which, if not avoided, may result in
property damage.
Indicates important information relevant to

the vehicle, the vehicle's use or to sections of
this manual to which particular attention
must be paid for optimum use of the vehicle.
If you see this symbol, it indicates “no”, “do

not,” “do not do this,” or “never”.
Vehicle Specification
v Refer following chart for SUV general speciﬁcations –
M-Hawk 2.2 L Diesel L6
v Refer below chart for SC/ DC vehicle speciﬁcations –
M-Hawk 2.2 L Diesel L6
The repair methods given by the manufacturer in this document are based on the technical specifications, current at the time of release. The methods may be modified as a result of changes introduced by the manufacturer in the production of the various component units and accessories from which the vehicles are
manufactured. The reproduction, translation, transmission, in part of or whole of the present document, are prohibited without the prior written consent of Mahindra & Mahindra Ltd. The use of this document by any person other than the trained personnel, at the Authorized Service Centre of Mahindra & Mahindra Ltd.,
will amount to unauthorized use and shall be liable for penalty/prosecution© 2012 Mahindra & Mahindra Ltd.
Refer below chart for SUV vehicle lubricaƟons recommendaƟons –
Refer below chart for SC & DC vehicle lubricaƟons recommendaƟons –
Engine
mHawk 2.2 L
Table of Content
Description……………………………………………………………………….…….……………..........
Trouble Shooting…………………………………..…………………………….…………………………
Care of the System………….…………………………………………………………….……………….
In Car Repair………..………………………………………………………………...........................
Dismantling and Overhauling……………………………………………….…………………..……
Inspection of the Components………………………………………………………………….……
Assembly Procedure...…………………………………………..……………………………………….
Technical Specification………….……………………………………………………………………….
Lubricant and Sealant Specification……………………………………………………………….
Sealant Location and Specification……………………………………………………………….
Torque Specification……………………………………………………………………………………….
Tightening Sequence..…………………………………………………………………………………….
List of Special Tools(MST)……………………………………………………………………………….
The repair methods given by the manufacturer in this document are based on the technical specifications, current at the time of release. The methods may be modified as a result of changes introduced by
the manufacturer in the production of the various component units and accessories from which the vehicles are manufactured. The reproduction, translation, transmission, in part of or whole of the present
document, are prohibited without the prior written consent of Mahindra & Mahindra Ltd. The use of this document by any person other than the trained personnel, at the Authorized Service Centre of
Mahindra & Mahindra Ltd., will amount to unauthorized use and shall be liable for penalty/prosecution© 2012 Mahindra & Mahindra Ltd.
Description
The 2.2-liter Turbocharged and intercooled common rail direct injected diesel engine with a bore 85
mm and stroke of 96 mm develop 88 KW(120 HP) at 4000 RPM and a torque of 290 Nm at 1800
RPM.
A variable geometry turbocharger controls the boost to 2.2 bars. The compressed air is cooled by the
charged intercooler which is mounted upstream of the turbocharger. The cooled air enters the inlet
manifold’s plenum and it enters the Aluminium cylinder head through the inlet valves having an
angle.
The piston features re-entrant type combustion chamber and having ferrous ring insert in the Top
ring groove. A 3-ring pack is used. The top ring is asymmetrical barrel face and with CKS coating and
keystone shape. The 2ndring is taper faced. The 3rd is conformable Oil Ring.
The forged connecting rod is connected to induction-hardened crankshaft. The small end of the
connecting rod is trapezoidal shaped to reduce the mass as well as to ensure higher loading. The
crankshaft is induction hardened with the filets hardened & ground. The flywheel has a shrunk fit
ring gear and also a ball bearing to act as pilot for the gearbox input shaft. The front end is having a
rubber molded dampener pulley.
The high pressure pump & camshaft are chain driven. There are two overhead camshafts (Inlet and
exhaust). The valves are actuated through HFF & RLA (hydraulic tappets). There are four valves per
cylinder. This ensures that the charge fill as well as the purging is optimum.
Refer below illustrations for mHawk engine accessory & component location -
mHawk Engine Accessory and Components Location – Engine Side View Schematic
manufactured. The reproduction, translation, transmission, in part of or whole of the present document, are prohibited without the prior written consent of Mahindra & Mahindra Ltd. The use of this document by any person other than the trained personnel, at the Authorized Service Centre of Mahindra & Mahindra Ltd., will
amount to unauthorized use and shall be liable for penalty/prosecution© 2012 Mahindra & Mahindra Ltd.
mHawk Engine Accessory & Component Location – Engine Top & Bottom View Schematic
Trouble Shooting
Refer to the Service diagnosis chart. Additional tests & diagnostic procedures may be necessary for
specific engine complaints that cannot be isolated using only the diagnostic chart.
Information concerning the additional checks is provided within the following diagnostic.
Cylinder compression pressure Test

The results of the cylinder compression test can be utilized to diagnose several engine malfunctions.
Before carrying out the compression test ensures that the battery is in good working condition.
Otherwise the indicated pressures may not be valid for diagnostic purpose.
 Remove Injector from the cylinder you want to measure compression from. Insert the Dummy
Injector in place of the Original Injector.
 Mount the Universal Adapter to Dummy Injector one end and on Gauge at other End. Hold the
throttle plate open.
 Crank the engine over a few times until the needle on the gauge stops climbing. Record the final
reading
Sr No. Engine Type Compression value in Compression value in
PSI Kg/cm2
1 2.2L mHawk 400-440 28.0-30.8
Engine cylinder Head Gasket Failure Diagnosis

A leaking engine cylinder head gasket usually results in loss of power, loss of coolant and engine
misfiring, overheating and poor fuel economy.
An engine cylinder head gasket leak can be:

A. Between adjacent cylinders
Or
B. Between a cylinder and adjacent water jacket.
Cylinder head gasket failure between cylinders is indicated by Loss of power and /or engine misfiring.
Cylinder head gasket leaking between a cylinder and coolant passage results in coolant foaming or
overheating and loss of coolant indicate leakage in engine water jackets.
Cylinder to Cylinder Leakage Test

Check the cylinder compression pressure as already explained. Leakage between cylinders will be
result in drop of compression pressure by nearly 50 to 70% in the affected cylinders.
Cylinder to Water jacket Leakage Test
• Remove the radiator cap.

• Warm up the engine and allow it to warm up until the engine thermostat opens.
• If large combustion /combustion pressure leak exist, bubbles will be visible in coolant.
• If bubbles are not visible, install a radiator pressure tester and pressurize the cooling circuit. If a
cylinder is leaking combustion pressure into the water jackets then the tester’s needle will pulsate
with every combustion stroke of the cylinder.
Refer below chart for various symptoms, causes and there remedial actions -
Symptom Causes Remedial action

Engine will not start & 1. Air intake obstructed  Replace the element.
emit black smoke 2. Defective injectors  Check for free operation of
Turbocharger.
3. Lack of compression.  Replace
4. Cylinder head gasket  Check compression pressure.- if
failure low check for valve seat ,rings &
liner wear
5. Engine timing- Valve  Replace the cylinder head gasket.
6. CR system  Check timing chain.
 Refer diagnostic manual.
Noisy engine & black 1. Faulty injectors.  Replace injectors
smoke. 2. Loose main bearings  Tighten the main bearings.
3. Broken parts  Inspect and replace the broken
parts.
4. EGR valve stuck open  Check the EGR valve & replace if
mechanically required
Noisy engine & high 1. Cylinder head gasket  Replace the cylinder head gasket.
smoke ( White/ Grey) defective.
2. Worn out or damaged  Lap the valve seats or regrind.
valve seats.
3. Leaking injector holder  Tighten the injector holder.
Black smoke. 1. Air intake restricted.  Check for hoses, replace air
cleaner element.
2. Defective injectors  Check injectors.
3. Air leaks.  Check for leaks between
Turbocharger to intercooler,
intercooler & intercooler to inlet
manifold.
4. EGR valve stuck open  Check the EGR valve
5. Restricted exhaust system.  Remove restriction or replace
parts.
6. Gas leak between exhaust  Replace manifold gasket or parts.
manifold & cylinder head.  Overhaul engine.
7. Worn out rings, liners &
valves.
8. Improper vacuum  Check & correct
connection for EGR valve
Excessive oil 1. Cracked vacuum line  Check the vacuum line from the
consumption hoses. alternator to the EGR valve - check
for leaks, crack. And vacuum line
to the VGT actuator. Replace
cracked hoses.
2. Clogged air filter element.  Replace element.
3. Restriction in air intake to  Locate & remove restriction.
compressor duct.
4. Restrictions in  Remove the restriction in the

turbocharger oil drain line. drainpipe.
5. Restriction in crankcase  Check the crankcase ventilation &
breather. rectify.
6. Damaged oil separator  Replace the oil separator
7. Turbocharger damaged.  Change oil, filter, service the
Turbocharger & use recommended
oils & drain intervals. Follow the
recommended procedure while
shutting down.
8. Worn out rings, liners, and  Repair Turbocharger.

valves.
9. External oil leaks  Overhaul engine.
10. Leakages through inlet  Stop the external oil leakages.
manifold mounting face
allowing dust entry.  Change the vacuum hoses.
11. Bend/kink in any of the oil
return pipe’s/vacuum  Change the manifold gasket or
hoses. replace the manifold.
12. Defective vacuum pump.  Remove the bend or kinks.
 Replace the vacuum pump.
Blue smoke. 1. Clogged air filter element.  Replace element.

2. Restriction in air intake to  Locate & remove restriction.
compressor duct.
3. Air leak between the  Locate the leaks, change hose or
Turbocharger to intake clamp if required.
manifold.
4. Excess oil.  Correct the oil level.
5. Wear in valve seal.  Check the valve stem seals,
replace if required.
6. Wear in piston rings &  Check the compression pressure,
liner. replace rings & liners.
7. TC oil seal leaks  Check the Turbocharger if
defective get it attended.
White smoke. 1. Improper timing  Check sprockets & chain for wear.
Rectify
2. Defective cylinder head  Replace the cylinder head gasket.
gasket.
3. Restriction in fuel supply  Remove the restrictions.
Starter will not work or 1. Electrical complaints.  Refer the electrical section.
only cranks slightly 2. Check water level.  If water level reduced drastically
then check for hydrostatic lock.
3. Hydrostatic lock  Remove the water in the cylinder
and find the cause for water entry.
Starter will not crank 1. Weak battery.  Check the battery specific gravity.
the engine. 2. Corroded or loose  Clean & tighten battery
battery connection connections.
3. Faulty starter.  Repair starter.
4. Improper earthing.  Rectify earthing.
Noisy valves 1. Thin or diluted oil.  Change oil.

2. Low oil pressure.  Check the oil level.
3. Worn HLA  Replace the HLA.
4. Worn valve guides.  Replace the valve guides.
5. Excessive run out of valves  Grind valve seats and valves.
seats
6. Oil thickening  Replace oil & find the reasons of
thickening, rectify.
7. Aeration in oil  Follow the de-aeration procedure.
Oil pressure drop 1. Low oil level.  Check engine oil level.
2. Defective oil pressure  Install new sensor.
sensor.
3. Clogged oil filter.  Replace filter.
4. Clogged oil cooler  Clean the oil cooler.
5. Clogged oil strainer.  Clean the strainer.
6. Pressure relief valve in oil  Clean the valve & bore and
filter bracket stuck. assemble.
7. Oil leaks- internal  Check the gasket between the
block & front cover or any of the
MOG plugs
8. Worn parts in oil pump.  Replace the worn parts or pump.
9. Excessive bearing  Check bearing clearances.
clearances
10. Thin or diluted oil.  Change oil to correct viscosity.
11. Excessive bearing  Replace the bearing
clearance.
12. Oil pump relief valve stuck.  Remove the valve, inspect, clean &
refit.
13. Oil pump suction tube  Remove sump, inspect the parts &
loose, bent or cracked. replace.
14. Sealant blocking the  Check for sealant at the face of the
suction suction pipe.
15. Oil pump cover warped or  Install new pump.
cracked
Oil leaks 1. Worn oil seals  Replace seals.

2. Misaligned or deteriorated  Replace gasket.
gaskets.
3. Loose fastener, broken or  Tighten fastener
porous metal parts  Repair or replace.
Maintenance Schedule -
The repair methods given by the manufacturer in this document are based on the technical specifications, current at the time of release. The methods may be modified as a result of changes introduced by the manufacturer in the production of the various component units and accessories from which the vehicles are manufactured. The
reproduction, translation, transmission, in part of or whole of the present document, are prohibited without the prior written consent of Mahindra & Mahindra Ltd. The use of this document by any person other than the trained personnel, at the Authorized Service Centre of Mahindra & Mahindra Ltd., will amount to unauthorized use and
shall be liable for penalty/prosecution© 2012 Mahindra & Mahindra Ltd.
Maintenance Schedule…contd. 2
Lubricant Chart
Care of the System

The performance of the engine is dependent on ensuring that the following maintenance is carried out
as per the schedule without fail.
Accessory Belt: The belt system employs an auto Tensioner. Hence no tension adjustment is required.
The belt for the HVAC is having a manual Tensioner. This needs to be checked at every 10,000 KMs &
readjusted if required. The manual Tensioner bearing needs to be replaced at every 80,000 Km
Air cleaner: The element should be replaced at every 40,000 KMs or when red indicator band shows.
For the detailed procedure, refer to the Air Intake System.
Oil: The oil should conform to CH4 grade and with a viscosity Index of SAE 15W40. It should be kept in
mind that in the turbocharger engine the oil has to have do an additional load of lubricating and cooling
the Turbocharger shaft If any oil of lower specification is used it can break down under the high thermal
load at the turbine end of the shaft especially during the hot shutdown.
This oil grade also ensures that the oil consumption is within the desire limits. Use Maximile Supreme
Grade of oils. The Oil change intervals are first at 5000 KMs. & then subsequently every 15000 KMs.
Cooling system: Ensure that no leakages are present. For details of the coolant and ratio refer the
Cooling System.
Turbocharger: The engine is having a Variable Geometry Turbocharger. This turbocharger helps in
maintaining a good power curve at low speeds also.
EGR: The following additional check points have to follow during scheduled maintenance.
• Check for any exhaust gas leakage through sealing faces, EGR pipe. Formation of any black soot
indicates leakage.
• Check the vacuum hoses for any leaks, cracks.
• Retighten all nuts and bolts as per the recommend torque.
As this engine is equipped with HLA with RFF (Hydraulic tappets); Tappet setting is not required.
Refer below maintenance schedule activities to be carried during vehicle regular maintenance -
manufacturer in the production of the various component units and accessories from which the vehicles are manufactured. The reproduction, translation, transmission, in part of or whole of the present document,
are prohibited without the prior written consent of Mahindra & Mahindra Ltd. The use of this document by any person other than the trained personnel, at the Authorized Service Centre of Mahindra & Mahindra
Ltd., will amount to unauthorized use and shall be liable for penalty/prosecution© 2012 Mahindra & Mahindra Ltd.
ENGINE OIL – REPLACE
Nut/ Bolt description Quantity Nos. Spanner Size Torque Value – Nm.
Oil Sump drain plug 01 22 mm 27.5 ± 2.5
Engine oil –SAE 15W-40

Capacity – 6.0 Lit
mHawk Engine Oil Refill - Schematic
ENGINE OIL – DRAIN & REFILL

1. Open the oil filler cap.
2. Put the oil collecting tray below the sump, loosen & remove the oil sump drain plug. Allow
the oil to drain for 15 min.
3. Fit the drain plug with a new gasket/ washer. Torque tightens the Drain Plug –Torque 27.5 ±
2.5 Nm.
4. Fill fresh oil as per the recommended quantity and specification.
5. Refit the oil filer cap & check the oil level as per procedure.
 Park the vehicle on level ground/2 post lift /4 post lift

 Engine should be hot while draining the oil.
ENGINE OIL – LEVEL & LEAK - INSPECT
MAX
MIN
ENGINE OIL LEVEL & LEAK – INSPECT

1. Pull out the dip stick gauge and wipe it clean with a cloth/paper.
2. Insert the dip stick gauge into the dip stick guide fully till the end.
3. Pull out the dip stick slowly and check for the oil level between Maximum and Minimum
level - if found below, top up with recommended oil.
4. Start the engine and check for oil leakage/ seepage at –
 Oil sump & crankcase joint.
 Oil sump drain plug.
 Oil filter joint.
 Ensure that the vehicle is parked on level ground/2 post lift/4 post lift.
 Ensure that the engine is not running.
 Engine oil level & leak to be inspected at every service.
ENGINE OIL FILTER– REPLACE
Oil filter Removal – Refer illustrations.

1. Remove the oil filter by unscrewing it in anti-clockwise direction, using an oil filter wrench.
2. Check the oil cooler stud for tightness – Torque 27.5 ± 2.5 Nm.
3. Smear a layer of fresh engine oil on the oil filter “O” ring
4. Fit the oil filter & turn it clockwise till the “O” ring touches to oil cooler face.
5. Turn the filter another 3/4th turn by hand.
6. Check for Oil leakage/ seepage at –
 Oil pan & crankcase joint
 Oil pan Drain Plug.
 Oil filter joint.
 Oil cooler joint
 Never use a wrench/ spanner to tighten the oil filter.

 Engine oil filter element to be replaced first at 5000kms & at every 15000kms.
ACCESSORY DRIVE BELT – INSPECT
(AC Comp/Water Pump & Alternator/Power steering pump Drive Belts)
Accessory Drive Belts Layout - Schematic ACCESSORY DRIVE BELT TO BE CHECK
FOR –
Refer illustrations below.
1. Abrasion
2. Cracking
3. Improper Install
4. Uneven Rib Wear
5. Misalignment
6. Chunk-out
7. Gravel penetration
8. Pilling
Refer illustrations shown.

1. Abrasion – Each side of belt appears shiny or glazed. In advanced stages, fabric becomes
exposed.
2. Cracking – Small, yet visible cracks along the length of a rib or ribs.
3. Improper Install – A belt rib begins separating from the joined strands. If left unattended,
the cover will often separate, causing the belt to loosen.
4. Uneven Rib Wear – 5. Misalignment –

Refer illustration shown. Refer illustration shown.
Belt shows damage to the side with the Sidewalls of the belt may appear glazed or the edge
possibility of breaks in the tensile cord cord may become frayed and ribs removed. A noise
or rough edged ribs. A thumping noise may result. In severe cases, the belt can jump off
may also be heard when running. the pulley.
Refer illustrations shown.

6. Chunk Out – Pieces or chunks of rubber material have broken off from the belt. When
chunk-out has occurred, a belt can fall at any moment.
7. Gravel Penetration – Small pinholes are visible on the backside of the belt. Bumps may be
visible and the fabric around the holes can be frayed.
8. Pilling – Belt material is sheared off from the ribs and builds up in the belt grooves.
• Accessory drive belt on Alternator/ Power Steering and AC/ Water Pump to be
inspected at 60000kms, 80000kms and to be replaced at 100000kms.
ACCESSORY DRIVE BELT – REPLACE
(Alternator/Stg. pump Drive Belt & AC Comp/Water Pump Drive Belt)
Nut/ Bolt description Quantity Spanner Size Torque Value – Nm.
Nos.
Cooling Fan mtg. nut 01 34 mm. 45± 05
Removal Steps –
Refer illustration.
1. Remove NVH cover.
2. Remove Fan & shroud.
3. Rotate the auto tensioner in clockwise direction by using spanner to relieve the belt tension.
Use lock pin to lock the tensioner.
4. Remove Alternator/Power steering Pump drive belt.
5. Rotate the auto tensioner in clockwise direction by using spanner to relieve the belt tension.
Use lock pin to lock the tensioner. Remove the AC Compressor/ water pump drive belt.
Assembly Procedure –
Refer illustration.
1. Realign AC Compressor/ water pump drive belt, rotate the auto tensioner in clockwise
direction and remove the lock pin.
2. Realign Alternator/power steering pump drive belt.
3. Rotate the auto tensioner in clockwise direction and remove the lock pin. Ensure that the
drive belt is in line with the drive belt pulley and auto tensioner.
4. Refit Fan & shroud, NVH cover.
AUTO TENSIONER – INSPECT
AUTO TENSIONER - INSPECT

(ALTERNATOR/POWER STEERING PUMP DRIVE BELT & AC COMP/WATER PUMP DRIVE BELT)
Refer illustrations shown -
Inspect automatic tensioner carefully for symptoms such as cracked arms, excessive vibration
during idle speeds, looseness, noise (clatter or rattling) and sticking or seized operation. These can
all be signs that a tensioner needs replacing.
If the lug is deviated its position when the engine is running, then it is an indication that the auto
tensioner is not maintaining sufficient tension and has reached its service limit. Refer sketch ‘A’
and ‘B’ indicating lug position in Auto tensioners.
A B
Auto tensioner to be inspected at 60000kms, 80000kms and to be replaced at

100000kms.
AUTO TENSIONER – REPLACE (Alternator-Steering Pump Drive Belt)

 Auto tensioner mtg. bolt 03 12 mm. 35 ± 05
Auto Tensioner (Alternator-Steering pump drive Belt) - Schematic
AUTOTENSIONER – REPLACE (on Alternator/Power Steering Drive Belt)

Refer illustrations ‘A’ and ‘B’.
1. Using a spanner, rotate the Auto Tensioner in the clockwise direction shown in the figure
[A]. Lock the Auto Tensioner in that position using a pin shown in illustration [B].
2. Remove the drive belt.
3. Take the locking pin out & release the Auto Tensioner.
4. Remove auto tensioner assembly by removing its mounting bolts.
5. Replace the components in reverse to the assembly procedure.
Note – Check the auto tensioner free arm position. Ensure that end of travel is not reached.

100000kms.
AUTO TENSIONER – REPLACE (AC Compressor-Water Pump Drive Belt)

Auto tensioner mtg. bolt 03 12 mm. 35 ± 05
Auto Tensioner (AC Compressor-water pump drive Belt) - Schematic
AUTOTENSIONER – REPLACE (on Alternator/Power Steering Drive Belt)

Refer illustrations ‘A’.
1. Using a ring spanner, rotate the Auto Tensioner in the direction shown in the figure [A]. Lock
the Auto Tensioner in that position using a pin shown in illustration [B].
2. Remove the belt.
3. Take the locking pin out & release the Auto Tensioner.
4. Remove auto tensioner assembly by removing its mounting bolts.
5. Replace the components in reverse to the assembly procedure.

100000kms.
In Car Repair
The in car repairs which can be carried out are:
• Engine Assembly Removal from Vehicle
• Accessory belt removal & Refitment
• VFD Assembly with Fan Blade removal
• High Pressure pump Removal
• Oil filter changing
• Turbocharger removal & Refitment
• Cylinder head gasket Replacement
Engine Assembly Removal from Vehicle -
Pull the bonnet release lever. Raise and

hold the bonnet assembly using the hood
stay rod.
Press the lock clip and remove the wiper

washer hose from the bonnet.
Using spanner, loosen the securing mounting bolts

from both the sides of the bonnet and remove the
bonnet assembly.
Using a flat screw driver, loosen the securing

clip and remove the turbocharger inlet hose.
Using a grip plier, remove the clip and disconnect

the hose connected to the oil separator.
Remove the alternator electrical connector Cover

and remove the alternator connector mounting bolt
for removing the alternator electrical connectors.
Disconnect the complete engine wiring harness
Remove the suction line and delivery line from the

A/C compressor.
Using a cutting plier, press and hold the securing clip

of the fuel return line. Pull and remove the fuel
return line from fuel rail.
Press the clip and remove the fuel inlet pipe and
fuel outlet pipe of the HPP.
Using a socket and wrench set, remove the Diesel

Oxidation Catalyst (DOC)mounting bolts from the
turbocharger and detach the DOC.
Using a socket and wrench set, remove the side

engine mounting nuts from the chassis frame.
Using a socket and wrench, remove the bottom

engine mounting nuts from the chassis frame.
NOTE:
Tie-up the rope chain with the hook of the engine

lifting jack and the lift the engine carefully out of the
vehicle.
Position the engine lifting jack properly and

lock it securely.
Using a rope chain hook the engine carefully at its

lifting brackets .
Accessory drive belt Remove & Refit –
Accessory Drive Belt Layout - Schematic
Using the special tool, rotate the auto tensioner in the direction shown in the figure. Lock the
auto tensioner in that position using a pin.
Remove the auto tensioner mounting bolts & remove the belt tensioner.
Fan Blade & Viscous Fan Drive Removal & Assembly –
Do not remove the accessory belt before removing the

nut.
Loosen the fan nut.
Note that the threads are anticlockwise threads.

Hence to loosen then the direction of rotation has to
be clockwise when viewed from front.
Do not tamper or service the center portion of the

fan.
Remove the radiator shroud & remove the fan.
The fan blade assembly and the VFD assembly can be removed together.
High Pressure Pump Removal & Refitment –
To replace the high pressure pump; it is advisable to remove the engine out from vehicle.
Follow the steps explained in the chapter Removal of the Engine.
Oil filter removal & refitting
Remove the oil filter using the Wrench – Special tool.
After removal, ensure that the central stud is fully

tight.
It can work out loose while removal of the filter.
If it has worked loose then tighten it to torque of 25-

30 Nm ( 18-22 lb-ft)
While fitting the new oil filter. Apply oil on the “O” rings.
Tighten by hand only.
Turbocharger removal & Refitment
Remove the air intake hose to turbocharger & the outlet hose from turbo charger to Intercooler.
Please cover the opening of the turbocharger to avoid accidentally dropping any foreign object.
Do not apply oil to the hoses while fitment.
Remove the exhaust pipe from the

turbocharger.
Note - It is recommended to apply rust

cleaning spray (WD 40) in the nuts before
attempting to remove otherwise, the stud is
tending to break.
Remove the oil feed pipe and the oil return

pipe to turbo.
Loosen & remove the turbo charger support

bracket.
Remove the turbocharger mounting

fasteners from exhaust manifold.
Cylinder Head Gasket Removal & Refitment
Disconnect the battery cables & remove the

battery.
Remove the NVH cover.
Remove the Intercooler hoses & the intercooler.
Loosen & Remove the radiator drain cock. Collect the coolant -if the coolant is clean; then it can be
reused.
Remove the hose fastened on the Front cover.
Loosen & remove the water collector pipe from the head.
Remove the electrical connections of:

 Sensors (HFM, Cam Phase Sensor, Boost Pressure Sensor)
 Water temperature sensor & Oil Pressure Switch
 Connection to Injectors, Modulator etc.
 Alternator connections
Remove the air cleaner assembly.
Remove the hose connection from the Turbocharger end TC to intercooler.
Remove the exhaust pipe at the Turbocharger

outlet elbow.
Remove the vacuum hose from the vacuum pump in alternator to booster.
Remove the oil separators. (Labyrinth type

separator fitted on Cam cover)
Remove the EGR pipe mounting clips & in the sequence as shown in figure.
Using the special tool, rotate the auto tensioner in the direction shown in the figure.
Lock the auto tensioner in that position using a locking pin. Remove the drive belt.
Remove the locking pin and release the auto tensioner.
Remove the auto tensioner mounting bolts. Auto tensioner can take out.
Using the spanner tool, rotate the auto tensioner in the direction shown in the figure.
Lock the auto tensioner in that position using a pin. Remove the drive belt.
Remove the locking pin and release the auto tensioner.
Remove the auto tensioner mounting bolts & remove the auto tensioner.
Loosen & remove the oil filter.
Loosen & Remove the alternator mounting bolt &

the alternator brace.
Remove the alternator.
Loosen & remove the Throttle valve from air
intake pipe.
Remove the coolant inlet & outlet hoses from the

main EGR Cooler assembly.
Remove the EGR Cooler assembly.
Loosen and remove the EGR mixer mounting

bolts connected to intake manifold.
Loosen and remove the EGR mixer mounting

bolts connected to intake manifold.
Remove the EGR mixer and gaskets.
Loosen and remove the pipe cylinder head water

outlet connected to intake manifold.
Loosen and remove the bolts of intake manifold.
Remove the intake manifold and gasket.
Loosen & remove the oil filler neck.
Remove the dip stick & remove the dip stick

clamp bolt & the dip stick guide.
Loosen & remove the Intercooler bracket

mounting bolts & remove both the intercooler
brackets.
Remove the leak off pipes from the injector.
Loosen & remove the high pressure pipes from

common rail & injector.
It is advisable to loosen the high pressure pipes

from Common Rail end first.
Loosen & remove the injector holding clamps &

remove the injector.
Loosen & remove the intake manifold mounting

bolts.
Care must be taken while removing the Inlet

Manifold Mounting bolt near the EMPROP.
It is advisable to use an open ended spanner to
loosen the particular bolt.
Loosen & remove the Oil supply lines to

turbocharger.
Note – It is recommended to remove the lock clip

of the Oil Return Line at the cylinder block end
first & then the oil supply line inlet to the
turbocharger.
Loosen the Turbocharger Mounting bolt from the

support bracket & the support bracket mounting
bolts from the block.
Loosen & remove the Turbocharger mounting

bolts from exhaust manifold.
Loosen the tensioner pulley nut.
Loosen the lock nut of the AC belt tension setting

bolt. Loosen & remove the AC belt tension setting
bolt.
Remove the AC belt.
Loosen & remove the damper pulley bolt & the

damper pulley.
Care must be taken while handling the damper
pulley.
Loosen & remove the front cover bolts. Remove

the front cover.
To remove the front cover; 3 Nos. bolts should be

removed from the front side of the oil sump.
Use Special tool and lock the cam shaft position,

before removing cam sprockets.
Loosen the cam sprocket bolt.
• Loosen & remove the secondary (Upper)

tensioner.
• Remove the chain guides by removing
the ‘e’ clips.
Loosen & remove cam to cam chain guide.
Remove the bolt & remove the cam sprocket.
Remove the bolt & remove the other cam

sprocket.
Loosen & remove the cam cover bolts.
Remove the cam cover.
If the cam phase is not dismantled from cam

cover; care must be taken while handling the cam
cover.
Lift & remove both the cam shafts.
Lift out the HLA & RFA assembly.

Place the HLA & RFA in straight upward position
in a clean tray.
Ensure that the HLA & RFA are kept in straight

upward direction in the head assembly if not
removed.
Loosen & remove the water outlet pipe.
Loosen & remove the head bolts.
It is advisable to follow the tightening sequence

for loosening the bolts.
Remove the head assembly.
Remove the Head Gasket.
Working principle of the various subsystems of the Engine –
The various subsystems are:
• Turbocharger: Please refer to the Air Intake System section.
• Exhaust Gas Recirculation
• Crankcase ventilation
• Lubrication System/ Oil circulation
Working Principle of Exhaust Gas Recirculation –
During acceleration and in higher loads the combustion chamber temperatures increase. The high
combustion temperatures increase the NOx generation. The higher percentage of NOx generated in the
combustion chamber come out through the tail pipe in the atmosphere.
To reduce the amount of NOx coming through the tail pipe the EGR system adds exhaust gases into the
fresh air that is going into the combustion chamber. Since the exhaust gas is already burnt hence when
mixed with fresh air acts an inert gas. Thus when the exhaust gas mixed with fresh air enters the
combustion chamber, it performs a dual role. The first role it does is that it reduces the amount of
oxygen available for combustion. The second role that it acts is as a heat absorbent/heat sink.
The net effect is that it reduces the combustion temperatures. This results in lower amount of NOx
being generated.
To control the amount/percentage of exhaust gases to be circulated back to the combustion chamber
an ECU is used. The ECU monitors the coolant temperature, altitude, engine speed, and accelerator
pedal position and the air flow. Based on the above parameters the ECU operates a switch that in turn
controls the amount of vacuum going to the EGR valve. The amount of vacuum applied controls the lift
of the EGR valve.
EGR Valve
Remove the EGR valve and check it valve-sticking, deposition of carbon etc. If excess carbon deposits
and sticky valve noticed then it should be cleaned with a suitable solvent, so that the correct valve seat
is ensured.
After cleaning the valve blow air from the bottom side of the valve and check for any leakages.
EGR Pipe
Remove the EGR pipe and check for gas leakage, damages etc. Clean the gasket seating area from any
carbon deposits burrs etc. Spray WD 40 rust cleaning spray on the nut.
To check the pipe for any leakages, close one end of flange and from other end blow air at 2 bars. Dip
the pipe in water and observe if any leakage is observed. If any leaks are observed then the pipe has to
be replaced. Do not attempt to weld/ seal the leakage joint
Vacuum Modulator Valve
It does not require any maintenance. However please check and confirm that that the line from the
modulator to air cleaner is clean and the hole at the air cleaner hose end is not choked.
EGR Mixer Assembly
The EGR Mixer mixes intake air with exhaust gas. The EGR
assembly has an convergent-divergent construction at the
place where the EGR gas comes and mixes with the fresh
air. After this the mixture passes through a divergent path
that helps in retaining the pressure drop faced in the
convergent zone.
Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) Cooler
A. EGR Cooler B. Electrical EGR valve with position feedback sensor C. Coolant Inlet
D. Coolant Outlet E. Pneumatic Actuator F. EGR Gas Outlet
The EGR cooler cools the exhaust gases before it is re

circulated into the engine. The exhaust gas passes through a
EGR cooler. The coolant flowing through the EGR cooler
takes away the heat and reduces the temperature. EGR
cooler is coupled with electrical EGR valve. The electrical
EGR valve is operated by DC motor and has got a position
sensor.
Working of Crankcase Ventilation System –
The ventilation system is closed ventilation type. A hose connects the sump assembly to the oil
separator. There are two oil separators in series. First the oil vapor goes to the labyrinth oil separator. In
the labyrinth- The oil goes through the labriyanth, the oil collected drops down. The excess pressure
acts below the diaphragm. The diaphragm is acted from below by the crankcase pressure and from top
the suction by air cleaner. A spring also acts on top of the diaphragm. Once the pressure exceeds the
diaphragm lifts and the excess crankcase oil and vapor pressure goes to the cyclonic oil separator. Here
again the mixture is separated and oil drained back to the sump while the vapor is fed back to the air
suction pipe – in between the air cleaner and the turbocharger.
Certain amount of oil will be carried from the oil separator to the Air inlet hose, which is normal.
However if it is excessive please look for all the causes mentioned in the high blow bye.
Oil circulation system –
An external G rotor pump sucks the oil through the strainer. The oil pump is driven by the rotor, which
is mounted, on the crankshaft. The oil pump is mounted in the front cover.
The oil goes to the oil filter. The oil cooler is located in between the oil pump and the oil filter. The oil
cooler is provided with a bypass throttle.
After cooling the oil goes through the oil filter and is delivered to the main oil gallery.
Oil is supplied to the main bearing con rod bearing, thrust bearing and the piston cooling jets. In the
front of the block the oil is given to the secondary chain, chain tensioner, the vacuum pump and the
turbocharger.
The oil supply to the secondary chain tensioner, the camshaft bearing and the HLLA is after an orifice
The lubrication system provides a steady supply of pressurized oil to the moving parts of the engine.
Lubrication reduces friction heat and keeps parts from wearing against each other. A pump draws in oil
from the oil pan supply via an oil pump screen and forces it to the engine lubricating points via the oil
gallery. The major components of the lubrication system are:
1. Oil Pan
The oil pan is the reservoir for the oil and also
covers for the crank case. It is secured to the engine
block by bolts. A liquid sealant is used to provide a
leak proof joint.
2. Oil Strainer
Oil strainer is the first stage in the filtration of the

lubricant. It filters the minute dust particles present
in the oil before it enters the oil pump.
3. Oil Pump
The oil pump is driven by the crankshaft. It pumps

engine oil throughout the engine and returns to the
sump. The gear rotor type pump consists of an outer
rotor with inner teeth and an inner rotor with outer
teeth. The inner rotor has one tooth less than the
outer rotor and is connected to the drive shaft
which is located eccentrically with respect to the
rotor pump The teeth of the inner rotor are shaped
so that each tooth comes into contact with the
outer rotor and more or less seals off the chambers
that are created. Due to the rotation of the rotors,
the chambers on the intake side are continuously
enlarged.
As the pump draws in oil, the chambers become smaller on the delivery side. The oil is forced into the
pressure line. The oil is simultaneously fed to the pressure line by several narrowing pump cells. It can
generate high pressures at high feed rates.
4.Oil Filter
The oil filter traps the impurities and foreign

particles that may be present in the oil.
Oil Dipstick
Oil dipstick is used to measure the level of oil in the

sump. It has two marks on it specifying MIN and
MAX levels.
Low Oil Pressure Switch
Low Oil Pressure switch operates the low oil

pressure indicator in the cluster. This serves as a
warning indicator to the driver, indicating a
decrease in the oil pressure which might harm the
engine if he continues running the engine.
Oil Cooler
The engine oil becomes hot and has to be cooled

else it loses its properties. The hot oil rejects heat to
the coolant in the oil cooler. The oil thus maintains
its temperature at optimum level.
Description and Operation of Engine Components –
Engine Overview
A. Turbo Intercooler B. Turbocharger C. A/C compressor

D. Power steering pump E. Viscous fan F. Alternator
G. EGR cooler mixer
Cylinder Block
The Cylinder block is the basic building of an engine. It is the

place where the power is produced and delivered.
Essentially the cylinder block forms a housing for most of
the components of the engine like crank shaft, connecting
rod, piston, piston pin etc. its also houses the water jacket
and main oil galleries, Which takes away the excess heat
and disperses it to the atmosphere. Since the engine block
is always exposed to high pressure and temperature and
hence is made of strong materials like cast iron.
The four cylinder liners are made of grey cast iron and installed individually in the cylinder block. They
are interchangeable. The cylinder liners are directly swept with coolant (wet type).
Together with the compression chamber in the cylinder head and the piston crown, the cylinder forms
the combustion chamber. The cylinder's task is to guide the piston and to dissipate surplus heat which
occurs during combustion. In addition, the cylinders, together with the piston rings, have a sliding and
sealing function.
Cylinder Head
The cylinder head is bolted on top of the cylinder block to
form the roof of the combustion chamber.
The cylinder head:
• Seals the top of the cylinder block.
• Holds the glow plugs, fuel rail and injectors.
• Provides seats, guides and ports for the intake and
exhaust valves.
• Holds the valve train
• Provides mountings for the intake and exhaust manifold.
Unlike the cylinder block, the head is made of aluminium alloy. The intake and exhaust manifolds are
mounted to the cylinder head against the valve ports. The top part of the cylinder head is designed such
that the rocker arm and other parts of the valve train can be mounted on it. The aluminium alloy gives
the head superior heat dissipating capability to that of the cast iron head. The coolant and oil passages
are incorporated in the head for cooling and lubrication purposes.
The cylinder head gasket forms the gas and watertight junction between the cylinder head and block. It
also offsets any minor irregularities in the mating surfaces. Thus the gasket is made up of flexible
material.
Piston
The task of the piston is to receive the pressure forces that

arise as a result of the combustion of the air/fuel mixture
and to transfer them via the piston pin and the connecting
rod to the crankshaft.
The piston has to provide the moving seal between the
combustion chamber and the crank case. Due to its up and
down movement it creates vacuum to induce the air and
then compress it. The main task however is to transmit the
pressure of the combustion gases through the connecting
rod to the crankshaft. Accordingly the piston has to be light
in weight in order to minimize the inertia forces and also be able to withstand the combustion heat and
dissipate it. Its thermal expansion should not be too high as otherwise it could stick to the cylinder bore.
The piston has the following components, the crown, the ring zone, the skirt and the pin bore. The
crown is the top most part of the piston which is subjected to the greatest thermal and pressure loads.
The crown also has the combustion chamber incorporated into it. It also has grooves cut on it to make
way for the valves when they are fully open.
In the ring zone 3 rings ensure a good sealing in the cylinder. It minimizes the quantity of the
combustion gasses that is escaping to the crank case. The piston skirt guides the piston in the bore.
The rings also prevent the lubricating oil from getting into the combustion chamber. The piston bore
accommodates the piston pin which connects piston to the connecting rod. There are two types of
rings, one is the compression rings and other one is oil ring. Compression rings are located at the top on
the piston. They are intended to ensure the gas-tight seal possible to the combustion chamber.
Compression rings include the plain compression ring at the top and second is having an inside bevel
and taper-face. The lower piston rings are the oil scraper rings. These prevent oil from penetrating into
the combustion chamber. The oil scraper rings include the slotted oil control ring (with oil passage to
the insides of the piston) and the oil ring with an expander or spiral-type expander (narrow running
surface to increase pressure force). The three rings are mounted on the pistons at a phase difference of
120 dg. to each other. The piston cooling is by an oil jet mounted on the crankcase and on the main oil
gallery.
Connecting Rod
The connecting rod transfers the movement of the piston to
the crank pin on the crank shaft. A steel piston pin connects
the piston to the connecting rod. Since it is subjected to
severe alternating tensile, compressive and buckling loads.
Its “I” cross section gives the connecting rod the required
stiffness. The piston pin allows the piston to pivot the small
end of the connecting rod. The large end of the connecting
rod is connected to the crank shaft with a bearing cap. The
cap is very similar in design and function to the main
bearing caps.
These caps are lined with interlocked split bearing shells. These are cooled by oil supplied from the
crank case through the gallery drilled into the body of the connecting rod.
The connecting rods are usually made of heat treated steel and are drop forged. fracture split and
cannot be interchanged or direction interchange.
Crankshaft
The crankshaft changes up and down movement of the
pistons into the rotational motion needed to drive the
wheels of the vehicle. The crankshaft is mounted in the
engine block on U shaped supports that are cast into the
engine block assembly. The caps called main bearing caps
are bolted onto the supports to secure the crankshaft onto
the block. Between the crankshaft and its mounting
surfaces are bearings in which the crankshaft is held and is
able to spin. The main bearing surfaces are machined to be
exactly parallel to the crankshaft. For this reason, main
bearing caps must never be interchanged. The crankshaft transmits the torque via the flywheel to the
transmission. The crankshaft also drives the valve gear, oil pump, HPP, water pump and auxiliary
equipment like alternator, etc.
The crankshaft journals lie in one axis. They serve to support the crankshaft in the crankcase. The
crankpins are located on the circumference of the crankshaft. Oil bores provide a steady supply of oil to
the big end bearings from the lubricating system.
The crankshaft is subjected to a number of forces. The force of the piston creates bending and torsional
loads. Due to the engine operation the combustion forces are transmitted to the crankshaft unevenly.
This produces vibrations which affect the smooth running of the engine and may damage the crankshaft
in extreme cases. The crankshaft is dynamically balanced for this reason by removing material in the
balance weights.
The flywheel (Adapter ring), which is bolted to the crankshaft at the rear of the engine also helps to run
the engine smoothly by storing the potential energy. The torsional vibration dampers (also called
crankshaft pulley) at the other end of the crankshaft help in damping the torsional vibrations.
The bearing surfaces of the crank pins and the main journals are surface hardened and ground. The
crankshaft is held onto the journals by main bearings and caps. The main bearings are split circular
sleeves that wrap around the crankshaft main journals. The upper half usually has oil holes to lubricate
the inside surfaces. The upper bearings sit on the main support of the engine block, while the lower half
fits into the bearing cap. The wear surface is made of softer material when compared to the crankshaft.
This reduces friction and tends to mould itself around any uneven areas on the main journal. In case
wear occurs the bearing is affected.
The crankshaft tends to move back and forth. This is in addition to the rotary motion. This is prevented
by the thrust bearings. The thrust bearings have oil holes that facilitate lubrication of the journal.
Valves
The main function of the valve is opening and closing the
ports in the cylinder head during the exchange of gases. The
four valves per cylinder design is more precise and efficient.
Two inlet valves are bigger in diameter when compared to
the two exhaust valves. They are subjected to extremely
high pressure and temperatures. Although the inlet valves
are cooled by the intake air it still heats up to high
temperatures since it lies in the path of hot combustion
gases. The valves are solid and heat treated.
Valves are exposed to extreme mechanical stress, hence are “armoured” with hard metal alloys on the
stem and face. Collect grooves at the end of the stem provide grip to support the valve spring retainer.
A valve has the round head with tapered face that seals again the seat in the cylinder head. Because of
this construction it is sometime called mushroom valve or poppet valve.
The valve face is the contact point between the valve and its seat. Both these surfaces are machined to
form a tight seal when closed. Maximum contact is essential for better heat transfer.
The valve guides keep the valves in precise alignment in the cylinder head. They allow the valve stem to
go through the combustion chamber to the upper cylinder head area, where the valve springs are
mounted. The guides are soft alloy inserts that are pressed into the head.
The valve springs are responsible for closing the valve firmly on to the valve seat. This is installed on to
the cylinder head around the valve stem. The upper and lower spring seats prevent wear and keep the
spring in place.
When the valve moves it must seated firmly again the valve seat. There must not be any pressure on
the stem side of the valve. A small space is created between the step and the actuating device. This is
called valve clearance.
Camshaft
The camshaft controls the valve opening and closing events.
It is driven by the crankshaft through a chain connection.
The camshaft rotates at half the speed of the crankshaft to
maintain proper timing of the four cycle of combustion. The
opening and closing of the valves are done by lobes on the
camshaft. The engine has two camshafts one for operating
intake valves and the other for exhaust. The exhaust
camshaft is identified by the presence of a ring for the
purpose of operating a cam phase sensor.
The camshafts are forged from steel since they are subjected to high torsional stress. The timing of the
valve depends on the position of the camshaft and shape of the lobes on it.
The valve lift is the distance the valve is lifted off its seat when fully opened. This is determined by the
height of the cam lobe. The valve need enough lift to allow air to flow freely into the cylinder and for
exhaust gases to flow out of the cylinder, without interfering with piston or binding the spring.
The duration is the length of time the cam lobe keeps the valve open. it is measured in degrees of
camshaft rotation and is determined by the shape of the cam lobe.
Roller Finger Follower (RFF) and

Hydraulic Lash Adjuster (HLA) Assembly
A. Valve
B. Valve Spring
C. Hydraulic Lash Adjuster (HLA)
D. Roller Finger Follower (RFF)
The RFF and HLA assembly together provide zero clearance
between the valve stem and roller follower. The HLA damps
the spring return force when the valve closes (comes back
to original position). This will result in noiseless and smooth
operation of valve opening and closing.
The HLA is operated by hydraulics (oil). Oil for the HLA is provided from the oil gallery. During valve
closing the cam force initially presses the HLA down, then the valve is opened. When the valve opens
the HLA dampens the spring force by moving HLA up and down. As the valve stem gets worn off the HLA
moves up and maintains the zero clearance between valve stem and roller follower. Thus by this actions
RFF and HLA provides noiseless the valve closing and opening operation.
Valve Gear Drive
The main function of the engine timing is to coordinate the

induction of the fresh gases and expulsion of the exhaust
gases. The valve gear drives the camshafts by taking drive
from the crankshaft via a timing chain. The timing chain
transmits the motion with comparatively less noise and
better efficiency. The chain and the tensioner are subjected
to minimal wear and maintenance is unnecessary. In
extreme cases when the chain wears out it is replaced.
The timing chain is tensioned using an auto tensioner. There is no need to constantly reset or service
the timing chain or the tensioner or the crankshaft sprocket. The camshaft sprocket bolted to the
camshaft is having mark which must be aligned appropriately during the assembly to maintain proper
valve timing. The auto tensioner has to be replaced compulsorily as per the recommended maintenance
schedule.
Intake Air Throttle

A. Aluminum body B. Metallic flap
C. Manifold inlet
The intake air throttle allows more EGR gases to enter into
the engine even at low exhaust back pressure conditions, by
creating restriction to the fresh air flow.
Throttle opening and closing is on trolled by the Engine
Management System Electronic Control Unit (EMS ECU)
based on the amount of EGR flow and the back pressure of
exhaust gas.
Viscous Fan
The viscous fan is connected to a drive pulley by viscous

coupling. The drive for the pulley is taken from the water
pump end (drive ratio is 1:31 with crank shaft). The fan
rotates and supplies air to the radiator that cools the engine
coolant.
The viscous fan is placed behind the radiator core. The

viscous fan drive engages or disengages depending upon
temperature of air reaching the bimetallic coil on fan, after
passing through radiator core.
The viscous coupling works in the principle that when the air surrounding the coupling crosses the
designed limit, the coupling engages the fan with the pulley by transferring the positive drive to the
pulley and provides more cooling to the radiator. When the air surrounding the coupling falls down, fan
is disconnected from the pulley and rotated freely from 80 to 90%.
High Pressure Pump (HPP)
A. Pump outlet B. Pump overflow

C. Gear feed pump D. Pump inlet
E. Drive shaft F. Metering unit
The HPP is driven by the engine timing chain. The sprocket

bolted to the main shaft of the HPP is also marked while
setting the timing of the engine. The HPP pumps in the
required quantity of the fuel into the common rail. The HPP
is not a serviceable component.
Water Pump
The centrifugal type water pump is provided with the

impeller which is formed by seven vanes. The impeller is
placed inside an in volute casing. The drive for the water
pump is taken from the crank shaft (damper pulley) via belt
with the ratio of 1:31. The water pump is a non serviceable
component.
Dismantling & overhauling of the Engine –
Comprise of 5 steps:
• Removal of the engine from vehicle
• Engine Dismantling
• Engine Components Inspection
• Engine Assembly
• Engine Testing
Removal of the engine from vehicle –
Disconnect the battery cables & remove the

battery.
Remove the NVH cover.
Remove the Intercooler hoses & the intercooler.
Remove the bonnet.

Remove the radiator drain cock. Collect the coolant -if the coolant is clean, so that it can be reused.
Remove the electrical connections of:
 All sensors (HFM, Cam Phase Sensor, Crankshaft Speed Sensor, Boost Pressure Sensor etc.)
 Water temperature sensor & Oil Pressure Switch etc.
 Connection to Injectors, Modulator etc.
 Alternator & Starter connections
Remove the air cleaner assembly.
Remove the hose connection from the Turbocharger end TC to intercooler.
Remove the exhaust pipe at the Turbocharger

outlet elbow.
Remove the starter motor assembly.
Remove the fuel lines from filter to High Pressure Pump & return to fuel tank.
• Remove hoses connecting the water pump to radiator.

• Remove the hose connected from the water pump to heater and also the heater return line.
• Remove the fan shroud.
• Remove the radiator.
Remove the power steering connection hoses from the power steering pump.
Remove the pipes connecting from AC compressor suction and discharge lines.
Remove the vacuum hose from the vacuum pump and brake booster.
Drain the oil from the sump.
Attach lifting device.
Remove the front and rear insulators by removing

its mounting bolts.
Remove the gearbox mounting bolts.
Pull out and lift the engine from the engine compartment.
Dismantling -
Mount the engine on the Engine stand.
Remove the oil separators. (Labyrinth)
Remove the EGR pipe mounting clips & in the sequence as shown in figure.
Using the special tool, rotate the auto tensioner in the direction shown in the figure. Lock the auto
tensioner in that position using a pin. Remove the drive belt.
Take out the lock pin & release the Auto tensioner. Remove the auto tensioner mounting bolts &
remove the belt tensioner.
Using the spanner, rotate the Auto Tensioner in the direction shown in the figure. Lock the Auto
Tensioner in that position using a pin.
Remove the belt.
Take the locking pin out & release the Auto Tensioner.
Remove auto tensioner assembly by removing its 2 nos. mounting bolts.
Loosen & Remove the alternator mounting bolt &

the alternator brace.
Remove the alternator.
Loosen & remove the power steering pump

mounting bolts.
Remove the power steering pump.
Loosen & remove the water pump mounting bolts &

remove the water pump.
Loosen & remove Air Intake pipe.
Loosen & remove the oil filler neck.
Loosen & remove the oil filter, using filter wrench.
Remove the dip stick & remove the dip stick clamp
bolt & the dip stick guide.
Disconnect the coolant pipe clips connected to the

oil cooler.
Loosen & remove the Oil Filter Body mounting bolts

& remove the Oil Filter Body.
Loosen & remove the Intercooler bracket mounting

bolts & remove both the intercooler brackets.
Loosen & remove the Cam phase sensor.
Remove the Vacuum Pump assembly mounted on

the cam shaft end.
Remove the leak off pipes from the injector.
Loosen & remove the high pressure pipes from

common rail & injector.
It is advisable to loosen the high pressure pipes

from Common Rail end first.
Remove the common rail assembly.
Loosen & remove the injector holding clamps &

remove the injector.
Loosen & remove the intake manifold mounting

bolts.
Care must be taken while removing the Inlet

Manifold Mounting bolt near the EMPROP.
It is advisable to use an open ended spanner to

loosen the particular bolt.
Loosen & remove the Oil supply lines to

turbocharger.
Note – It is recommended to remove the lock clip of

the Oil Return Line at the cylinder block end first &
then the oil supply line inlet to the turbocharger.
Turbocharger Removal -
Loosen the Turbocharger Mounting bolt from the

support bracket & the support bracket mounting bolts
from the block.
Loosen & remove the Turbocharger mounting bolts

from exhaust manifold.
Loosen & remove the AC compressor mounting bolts &

remove the compressor.
Loosen & remove the AC compressor mounting

bracket bolts & remove the mounting bracket.
Remove the flexible pipe clip & remove the pipe from
water inlet pipe to oil cooler.
Remove 2 Nos. clamping bolts & remove the metal
pipe from cylinder block.
Loosen & remove the water inlet pipe with metal pipe
from the cylinder block.
Loosen & remove the damper pulley bolt & the

damper pulley.
Care must be taken while handling the damper pulley.
Loosen & remove the front cover bolts. Remove the

front cover.
To remove the front cover; 3 Nos. bolts should be

removed from the front side of the oil sump.
Lock the flywheel using the MST.
Note - Do not remove the MST from flywheel.
Loosen the cam sprocket bolt.
Loosen the HPP sprocket nut.
HP Pump fitment on Block -
Loosen & remove the flywheel bolts.
Remove the MST.
• Loosen & remove the secondary (Upper) tensioner.

• Remove the chain guides by removing the ‘e’clips.
• Press & lock the primary (Lower) tensioner. Loosen & remove the mounting bolts & the
tensioner.
Remove the bolt & remove the cam sprocket.
Remove the bolt & remove the other cam

sprocket.
Loosen & remove the cam cover bolts & remove

the cam cover.
Lift & remove both the cam shafts.
Lift out the HLA & RFA assembly.
Ensure to keep HLA in vertical position while

storing in tray to avoid oil leak.
Loosen & remove the head bolts.
Note – It is advisable to follow the tightening

sequence for loosening the bolts.
Remove the head assembly.
Remove the Head Gasket.
Loosen the HPP mounting (03 nos.) bolts.
Do not remove the mounting bolts.
Remove the timing chain & remove the crank

sprocket.
Loosen & remove the Crankshaft Speed Sensor.
Invert the engine.
Loosen & remove the Oil Sump bolts.
Remove oil sump assembly.
Remove the Oil strainer and its pipe.
Loosen & remove the Bed Plate bolts & the Bed
Plate.
Loosen & remove the rear seal retainer & remove

the rear seal.
Loosen & remove the connecting rod cap bolts &

caps.
Tap & remove the pistons with connecting rods.
Remove the Connecting rod bearings carefully.
Lift out the crank shaft assembly with toner ring.
Tonner ring can removed separately, if required.
Remove main bearing shell as well as Thrust

washers from the seat.
Loosen & remove oil jet bolts & remove the oil
jets.
Loosen & remove the main oil gallery & auxiliary

oil gallery plugs.
While fitting the Oil Gallery Plugs; Loctite is

applied. So while removing care must be taken to
use proper sockets so that the head will not get
damaged.
Remove the circlip & tap the gudgeon pin out.

Remove the piston rings.
Dismantling of the Head Assembly
Loosen & remove the Engine Lifting hooks.

Remove the Valve Spring locks. Remove the
Retainer Valve Springs – Upper, remove the
Valve Springs & the Valve Springs Retainer -
Bottom.
Remove Inlet & Exhaust Valves.
Note – If the valves are to be used again; mark

the valves according to the respective cylinder.
Separate the Water outlet pipe & the nipple.
Remove the valve seals.
Remove the Valve guides & valve seats using

appropriate tools & method.
Remove the Oil Gallery Plugs.
Engine Components Inspection -
Assembly –
The assembly sequence is the reverse of the dismantling procedure.
To obtain a good life of the rebuilt unit absolute cleanliness of the parts is taken as a prerequisite and
also the fact that all the parts have been inspected.
The additional points which are mentioned are necessary to give you the engine life same as the original
engine.
Bolts:
The following bolts are recommend to be replace every time they are opened-if the Maximum length
exceeds the specification. However the connecting rod bolt has to be changed every time without
exception.
The bolts have to be tightened by base torque then 2 stage angular torques. The angular torque’s
ensures that the bolts are torque tightened up to yield point. And the 2 stage ensures that the clamping
load for each bolt is within a very close tolerance.
Cylinder head bolts - 10 no --Maximum length 136.6/135.4 mm

Main Bearing Bolts - 10 no Maximum length 90.6/89.4mm
Connecting rod bolt s- 8 no replace every time
Flywheel bolts - 6no Maximum length 29.58/30.42 mm
Cylinder block – Top face -- Ensure that the tapping for the cylinder head bolt as well as the
crankshaft’s main journal is fine. Ensure that no water or oil after cleaning is in the bolt holes (esp. the
cylinder heads.). If found please remove them, if necessary using cotton cloth (not cotton waste).
If the oil /water is not removed then it is possible that while tightening the bolt. It may not allow
complete tightening of the bolts and one will get a false reading.
Cylinder head gasket –
It is a multi layer steel gasket type. Do not use any oil or shellac on the cylinder head gasket or on the
block face or the cylinder head face. The gasket has to be fitted dry.
The gasket can be assembled any face up or down. However it is suggested that the face with the
numbers should be facing up.
Piston & Rings –
While fitting the piston rings ensure that the rings end gap are staggered in 120°.
The first ring end gap should not be on the thrust axis but the minor axis i.e. on the gudgeon pin axis.
Please note that the first ring is keystone shaped hence the top mark has to face up. The 2nd ring is taper
faced. The face, which should be on the top, has to be facing up. The 3rd ring is the conformable type oil
ring. It can be assembled either way.
While assembling the piston on to the liner- apply clean oil liberally on the liner surface.
Bearing shells –
The bearing shells are marked with Red & Yellow paint mark according to the clearances. The bearing
shells need a selective assembly for optimum performance of the engine.
While dismantling when the shells are removed from the Cylinder Block as well as the Bed Plate;
please note the colour & while assembly the bearing shells marked with same colors are to be fitted
at the respective position.
Before fitting the bearing shell ensure that the parent bore of the block/connecting rod are clean.
Wipe with a clean cloth the back end of shells before assembling on to the block or connecting rod.
Ensure that the bearing shells are located properly in the notches.
Oil seals –
Ensure that
 All the oil seals are fitted using the dolly MST.
 Always ensure that the lip is coated with grease before fitment.
 Apply engine oil on the outside diameter of seal. The receiving bore should be free of burrs, dent.
Assembly Tips –
Whenever the HLA & RFF assembly is

removed from the head or stored or
while handling; should be kept in straight
direction.
Before assembling the HLA & RFF back fill

oil using a syringe through the hole
shown in the sketch.
While tightening the cam sprockets (Exhaust & Inlet); use the special tool as shown to avoid the
rotation of cam sprocket.
The Exhaust Camshaft can be identified easily because of the trigger wheel for the Camshaft sensor.
Also please note that while assembly the machined portion on both the camshafts should be in
vertical direction as shown in the sketch.
Camshaft Installation
Check and confirm the TDC Position of the piston for cylinder-1 before installation, in case the
same was not followed while removing the timing chain.
Slightly lubricate seating area of the camshaft

and install both the cam shafts on the
cylinder head assembly.
Cam shafts should not be interchanged during the removal or installation. Exhaust camshaft
has the trigger wheel for the cam phase sensor mounted on it.
Install the MST and align the camshafts such that

the machined surface area on the camshaft is in
the vertical direction as shown below.
Lock the MST on the camshaft key slot located at

back part of the sprocket.
Insert the MST at the rear side of the

camshaft (intake manifold side). This is to be
done to avoid leakages from the Stefa Plug.
After aligning the cam lobes properly, remove

only the MST placed on the top of
camshafts.
The Camshaft locking tool as shown in the image should not be removed till the cam cover is
installed on to the engine.
Prepare the cam cover by applying sealant as

recommended, Install the camshaft cover on the
cylinder head assembly.
Insert the camshaft cover mounting bolts and

tighten them slightly by hand.
Using a 0.47” (12mm) socket and wrench,

tighten the mounting bolts (A) of the cam cover
to the specified torque value as per the
recommended sequence.
Remove the MST at the rear side of the camshaft

(intake manifold side).
Install the stefa plug at rear side of the camshaft

(intake manifold side).
Install the vacuum pump and cooling pipe and

breather pipe brackets together on the vacuum
pump and tighten vacuum pump mounting bolts
to specified torque.
Check the vacuum pump seal ring for damages, in case of any damages replaces the seal ring.
Connect the outlet hose of the vacuum pump to

the vacuum pump assembly.
Install the fuel injectors.
Install the fuel rail unit with the cylinder head

assembly.
Connect the fuel main and return lines with the

fuel rail and injectors.
Connect the cam phase sensor connector to the

sensor unit on camshaft cover and connect the
engine wiring harness.
Prepare the oil separator by applying sealant.

Install the oil separator unit on the camshaft
cover assembly and tighten the mounting bolts
to specified torque.
Connect oil separator hose pipe to the oil

separator unit. By using nose plier press and lock
the clip of oil separator hose pipe.
Using a MST, install the timing chain and

sprocket.
Connect the negative cable to the battery.
Hydraulic Lash Adjuster Removal & Installation
• Disconnect and isolate the negative terminal of the battery.
• Remove the camshafts from the engine.
Carefully lift the hydraulic lash adjuster from the

cylinder head assembly and place them safely in oil
filled container.
Check the HLA for any damage, and replace it if

necessary.
Hydraulic lash adjuster should be kept in straight

upward position in an engine oil filled container
only.
Do not disassemble the HLA, as it is not a
serviceable component. In case of a failure of a
HLA, replace the complete assembly.
Install the HLA into the cylinder head assembly and

properly align them.
Install the camshafts from the engine.
Connect the negative terminal to the battery.
This tool has to be inserted in the Stefa plug hole & then cam cover to be assembled & torque
tightened.
After torqueing the locator is to be removed & then mount the Stefa plug using the dolly adaptor.
Note - This practice has to be followed in service because this avoids oil leakage in Stefa plug joint.
ENGINE Timing Procedure –
1. Rotate the engine in such a way that the crank shaft key comes at 12’o clock position (Facing
towards the camshafts) as shown in fig.
2. Fit the camshaft locking tool & the crankshaft locking pin as shown in the sketch above.
3. Assemble the crankshaft sprocket, HPP sprocket & the primary chain. Hands tighten the
sprocket bolts.
4. Assemble the primary chain guide & Primary Chain Tensioner.
5. Assemble the floating chain guide.
6. Release the primary chain tensioner.
7. Tighten the bolt of HPP Sprocket to the specified torque.
8. Assemble the Inlet & Exhaust camshaft sprockets, Cam to Cam chain guide & Secondary chain.
Do not tighten the Camshaft sprocket bolts.
9. Assemble the Secondary Chain Guide & Secondary Chain Tensioner. Release the Primary Chain
Tensioner by rotating the bolt.
10. Turn & hold the Exhaust Cam Camshaft Sprocket against the tightening direction with the help
of the tool as shown in figure above & tighten the bolt of Exhaust Camshaft Sprocket to the
specified torque.
11. Tighten the bolt of Intake Camshaft Sprocket to the specified torque.
• Remove the tool for locking the Camshaft.

• Assemble the Front Cover & assemble the bolts. Tighten the front
cover bolts to the specified torque & following the specified sequence.
• Assemble the flywheel. Torque tightens the Flywheel Bolts following
the specified sequence. Lock the flywheel using the flywheel locking tool.
• Remove the Crankshaft Locking Pin from the Block.
• Fit the Damper Pulley & tighten the bolt to the specified torque.
• Remove the Flywheel Locking Tool.
Cylinder head
While assembling the cam cover, first fit the dolly and then assemble the cam cover, after that fit the
end seals. Then only tighten the cam cover as per the sequence given in the Sequence section. If the
dolly is not used then the probability of oil leak through the seals is high. The risk is that the oil leak
from the seals facing the fire wall is difficult to observe during normal inspection. While inspection from
bottom the oil leak may be confused with transmission leak.
Oil separator
Please ensure sealant application in between the oil separator and the cylinder head in the seating
areas only
ENGINE TESTING –
After the engine is reassembled in the engine stand;
Then engine to be reinstalled back to the vehicle. All the connections are made.
 Start the engine

 Run at idle for 5 minute. Observe for leaks.
 Drive the vehicle at 50% of the maximum speed in each gear for about 10 to 30 KMs each (Approx.)
 Hand over the vehicle to customer to drive with speed limitations.
 After 5000 KMs. Recall the vehicle and recheck the Engine for abnormality, if any.
 Change the engine oil with recommended specifications.
DO NOT RUN THE ENGINE WITHOUT LOAD FOR HOURS FOR BEDDING IN. THIS PROCESS CAN ONLY
HARMS THE ENGINE.
RUNNING THE ENGINE WITHOUT LOAD CAUSES RING FLUTTERING; IT DAMAGES TO THE RINGS AS
WELL AS LINERS.
RUNNING THE ENGINE AT IDLE FOR PROLONGED TIME HAS SERIOUS CONSEQUENCES ON MAJOR
ENGINE COMPONENTS
Technical Specification
Figure Description Value
Bore 85 mm
Stroke 96 mm
Power- Max 88 kW (120 HP) @ 4000 rpm
Torque-Max 290 Nm@1600-2800 rpm
Firing Order 1-3-4-2
Direction of rotation Clockwise from fan side
Compression Ratio 16.5:1
Compression Pressure Standard Service Limit bar
Piston Re-entrant Bowl
Piston Pin Full floating. Surface hardened &

ground. Offset by 0.3 mm
Oil filter bypass opening pressure 32.6+/-3.6 psi (2.25+/-0.25 bar)
1.0+/-0.2 kg/cm2 Relief valve opening pressure ( bar

for gear drive engines only)
low idle: 1.5 bar, oil Oil pressure at

temp 90 degrees C Idle ( 60∼80°C) bar
high idle: 4.5-5.5 bar, Max speed( 60∼80°C)
oil temp 90 degrees C
Piston ring to groove clearance Standard Service Limit
Diametrically :
1st ring 1.2-2
2nd ring 1.2-2.4
3rd ring 0.7-1.5
Piston ring end gaps

1st ring 0.25-0.4
2nd ring 0.4-0.6
3rd ring 0.25-0.5
Gudgeon pin O.D φ 31.00-0.006
Connecting rod – Small end bush Standard

I.D φ in assembled condition 31.00 (+0.041 / +0.025)
Standard Service Limit
Gudgeon pin to connecting rod 0.025 to 0.047
small end bush clearance.
Gudgeon pin to piston pin hole Standard Service Limit

clearance 0.009 to 0.021
Piston weights grading

A A: 594-599 GMS
B B: >599-604 GMS
C C: >604-609 GMS
D D: >609-614 GMS
E
Connecting rod grading as per FOUR CONNECTING ROD WEIGHT

weights ASSEMBLIES OF ONE ENGINE WILL
F HAVE WEIGHT DIFFERENCE OF 5 GM
G MAXIMUM
H
I WEIGHT OF ONE CONROD ASSEMBLY
J (CONROD, BOLT, BEARING, BUSH)=
K 950 +/- 12.5 GMS
L
M
N
O
P
R
S
T
U
Recommended for service
replacement
Connecting rod bend or twist BEND AND TWIST: PARALLELISM OF

SMALL END ID 0.06/100 WRT BIG
END ID
Connecting rod end play Standard Service Limit
0.1-0.3
Crankshaft end play Standard Service Limit

0.1-0.3
Crankcase top surface distortion Top surface flatness:

0.04 and 0.02/100
Cylinder head bottom face Bottom face flatness:

distortion 0.1 and 0.03/100X100
Height of cylinder head from top 124

to bottom face
Rocker lever bush I.D 22.0

(in pressed condition)
Rocker shaft O.D 21.98/21.980
Rocker to shaft clearance Standard Service Limit

0.02/0.06 0.2
Push rod bent ≤ 0.25 0.4
Valve spring Standard Service Limit

Free Length 47.16
Squareness 1.5 max
Installed Load/Installed length Load: 204.0 +/- 10.2 N,
Length: 34.5
Valve seat angle 90.0 0/+0.15' degrees
Valve stem O.D

Inlet 5.98 +/-0.008
Exhaust 5.96 +/-0.008
Valve to Valve guide clearance
Inlet
Exhaust 0.012-0.142
0.032-0.168
Chain
Crank Sprocket 20 teeth
Idler Sprocket NA
HPP Sprocket 21 and 30
Difference between Cam height

& base circle diameter
Inlet 3.71
Exhaust 4.01777
Camshaft Bush I.D
Camshaft Journal O.D 24.0 (-0.04 / -0.053)
Camshaft bush to cam journal Standard Service Limit

clearance 0.02/0.075 0.1
Crankshaft pin Standard Service Limit

OD
Roundness/Ovality 50.981-50.996
Cylindricity /Taper 0.008
0.005
Main Bearing oil clearance Standard Service Limit
Undersize of the c/s crank pin Dimensions of the crankpin.

OD
0.25mm US
0.50 mm US
0.75 mm US

Crankshaft journal Yellow: 61.986-61.993
OD Red: 61.993-62.000
Roundness/ Ovality 0.005
Cylindricity/ Taper 0.008
Undersize of the c/s journal pin Dimensions of the journal

OD
0.25mm US
0.50 mm US
0.75 mm US
Crankshaft bend Standard Service Limit
FILLETS ARE HARDENED. DO NOT
ATTEMPT TO STRAIGTEN
Standard Service Limits

Crankshaft fillet radius
3.0 mm typical
Crankshaft Hardness Minimum surface hardness: 50+5
all case areas are effective case depth
is at HV450
Connecting rod Bearing oil
clearance 0.026-0.069
The Maximum length of bolts

after which they cannot be used
Can be used 3 times
Cylinder head bolts Can be used 3 times
Main Bearing Bolts Connecting
rod Can be used 3 times
Flywheel bolts length
Thermostat
Starts opening at NA
Fully opens at
Lift
Water pump pulley ratio 0.76 (WP pulley runs faster than
damper pulley)
Flywheel 31.5+/-0.15
Width from Mounting face to
clutch face
Flywheel Standard Service Limit
Flatness 0.05
Runout 0.05
Cylinder Head warpage Limit 0.1 mm.
Lubricants & Sealant Specification
Mahindra Maximile Supreme or any other engine oil conforming to API grade CH4 or above and a
viscosity Index of 15W 40.
RTV silicone sealant - RHODOSEAL. Part number 0024532 to be used:
 Between Rear oil seal retainer & Block
Rust cleaning solution (For the Turbocharger mounting nuts):
Brand Name: WD-40---

Manufacturer- WD-40 COMPANY
Sealant Location & Specification

Sealant on Cylinder block
Sealant between Cylinder Block & Bed Plate – Loctite 574
Sealant on bed plate
Sealant on Front Cover – Loctite 5900
Sealant between Cam Cover & Oil Separator – Loctite 5900
Sealant on Front Cover
Sealant between Head and Cam cover
Sealant between Cam Cover and Oil Separator
Sealant on Oil Pan
Water Pump "O" Ring
Sealant on Vacuum Pump
Torque Specification
Description Torque Value
Head Bolts 65 ± 3Nm + 90° + 90°
Bed Plate bolts 50 ± 2 Nm
Main Bearing bolts 65 ± 3 Nm + 2 X 60°
Connecting Rod caps 35 ± 3 + 60°
Flywheel 50 Nm + 600
Damper Pulley 150 + 650
HPP Mounting Nut 11 ± 1 Nm
Trigger wheel to Crank 15-20 Nm
Speed Sensor Mtg. bolt 11 ± 1 Nm
Oil Jets mtg. bolts 11 ± 1 Nm
HPP sprocket lock nut 72.5 ± 2.5 Nm
HP pipe nut – Rail End/ Injector End 27 ± 2 Nm
Viscous Fan clutch nut 50-60 Nm
Injector holding clamp nuts 25 ± 3 Nm
Injector holding studs 22.5 ± 2.5 Nm
Common Rail Mounting Bolts 25 ± 3 Nm
HP pipe Pump to Rail – Pump End/ Rail End 11 ± 1 Nm
Front cover Bolts 25 ± 3 Nm
Water Pump Bolts 25 ± 3 Nm
Water Outlet Pipe from Water Pump 11 ± 1 Nm
Water Inlet pipe from Head to Radiator 11 ± 1 Nm
Alternator Bracket bolts 32.5 ± 2.5 Nm
Chain Guide Bolts 10 ± 1 Nm
Chain Tensioner (Primary) Bolts 25 ± 3 Nm
Chain Tensioner (Secondary) Bolts 25 ± 3 Nm
Cam to Cam Chain Guide 11 ± 1 Nm
Cam Sprocket Bolts 90 ± 5 Nm
Oil Filter Cartridge 11±1Nm
Dip Stick Guide 18 Nm
Oil Filter body 25 ± 3 Nm
Alternator oil supply line – Banjo End 17.5 ± 2.5 Nm
Alternator oil supply line – Block End 18 Nm
Power Steering Pump Mtg. Bolts 25 ± 3 Nm
Exhaust Manifold Mtg. Bolts 25 ± 3 Nm
Turbocharger Mtg. studs on exhaust manifold 25 ± 3 Nm
Turbocharger Oil supply pipe – Banjo/ Block End 11 ± 1 Nm
Turbocharger Oil drain Banjo Bolt 25 ± 3 Nm
EGR Mtg. nuts 25 ± 3 Nm
AC compressor Mtg. Bracket Bolts 25 ± 3 Nm
AC compressor Mtg. Bolts 35 ± 3 Nm
Intercooler Mtg. Nuts 17.5 ± 2.5 Nm
Intercooler dampers 17.5 ± 2.5 Nm
AC compressor on bracket 25 ± 3 Nm
Automatic belt tensioner Mtg. nuts 25 ± 3 Nm
Bolts – Mtg Inlet Manifold 25 ± 3 Nm
Tightening Sequence
Cam Cover Bolts
Front Cover Bolts
Head Bolts
Cylinder Block and Bed Plate Bolts
Head Bolts
Cylinder Block and Bed Plate Bolts
Intake Manifold
Exhaust Manifold
AC Compressor Mounting Bolt
List of Special Tools (MST)
Description / Part No Usage View / Sketch
Lock Pin for Chain Tensioner

MST 273
Cam Shaft front end Timing tool

0301BM0001ST
TDC Locking Pin

0301BM0004ST
Stefa Pin Locator

0301BM010ST
Injector Removal Tool

0305BAM0001ST
High Pressure Pump Removal Tool

0305BC007ST
SUV/SC /DC L6 July 2012/Rev 1
Air Intake System
Table of Content
Description……………………………………………………………………….…….……………..........
In Car Repair………..………………………………………………………………...........................
Assembly Procedure..…………………………………………..…………………………………………
Technical Specification……………………………………………………………………………………
SUV/SC/DC L6 July 2012/Rev1
Description
Air Intake System ‐ Overview
D
C
E
B
F
A K
H
I
L
J
A. HFM Sensor G. Air Intake Manifold

B. Air Filter Assembly H. Oil Separator hose
C. Intercooler Unit I. Clean side intake hose
D. Boost Temperature Sensor J. Dirty side intake hose
E. Intercooler outlet hose K. Boost pressure sensor
F. Air Intake throttle L. Air filter service indicator
Description and Operation
By virtue of suction created in the system, air is drawn through the intake hose. The unfiltered air enters the air
cleaner housing at the bottom and leaves through the top after passing through a filter element. The filter ele‐
ment has multiple filtering media layers which have different porosities and cleaning efficiencies. Dust and
other fine particles sucked inside along with air get trapped in the air cleaner while passing through the filter
element.
After filtration the air enters the turbocharger. The turbocharger compresses the air and pushes it into the
intercooler assembly, here the heated air is cooled by the draft coming from the bonnet scoop. At the outlet
of the intercooler is a boost temperature sensor which gives the feedback for the temperature of air. The
cooled air now passes through the EGR mixer/Throttle valve assembly into the intake manifold. The intake
manifold pressure is sensed by the boost pressure sensor.
The repair methods given by the manufacturer in this document are based on the technical specifications current at the time of release. The methods may be modified as a result of changes introduced by the manufacturer in the production of
the various component units and accessories from which the vehicles are manufactured. The reproduction, translation, transmission, in part of whole of the present document, are prohibited without the prior written consent of © 2012
Mahindra & Mahindra Ltd.
Hot Film Air Mass Flow Rate Sensor
(A) HFM (Hot Film air Mass Flow rate) sensor is
attached to the outlet of the air cleaner. Clean air
coming out of the air cleaner passes through the
sensor mounted on air cleaner housing. The HFM
sensor measures the air mass, flow rate and
temperature of the air inside the system.
A. HFM (Hot Film air Mass Flow rate)
A
SE
RVI
CE IND
RA ICATOR
NG
E : 70 m r
ba
PA
RT
NO : 03 CO680N
13A
Air Filter Service Indicator
The air passes through a mechanical service
indicator (A) mounted next to the HFM sensor (B).
When air filter elements get clogged with dust, a red
band appears on the service indicator indicating that
the filter element needs replacement. The
replacement frequency depends upon the kind of
environment in which the vehicle is being driven. In
A case filter element is not replaced on time, the
PRE
vehicle’s performance is affected. Then the air enters
TO SS
RESET
R
PA
SE
RV
AN
ICE I
GE
NDICATOR
: 70 mbar +5
into the turbocharger.
RT -0
NO :
0313ACO680N
After replacement of the air cleaner element the

service indicator needs to be reset by pressing on
top of the indicator.
A. Air filter service indicator
Air Filter Housing Assembly
The Air Filter Housing is made up of two parts.The
bottom housing and top housing with the air filter
elements sandwiched in between.Air is drawn by the
A dirty side intake hose into the bottom housing.It
B gets filtered and passes on via the top housing, air
mass sensor into the turbocharger.
C The top and bottom housing are sealed using a
rubber seal. Bottom housing also posses a water
D drain outlet.
A. Air Filter Housing Top
E B. Element Grate
C. Filter Seal
D. Filter
E. Air Filter Housing Bottom
Intercooler with Boost Temperature Sensor
The compressed air is cooled by the charge
intercooler, which is mounted on the engine.The
boost temperature sensor fitted on the outlet hose
of the intercooler unit measures the boost pressure.
A The boost signal is given to the EMS ECU. Based on
B the load, engine speed and temperature, the EMS
ECU controls the boost pressure by manipulating
the VGT. The cool air then enters the inlet
manifolds.
A. Intercooler
B. Boost Temperature Sensor
Air Intake Throttle
To achieve stringent emission norms, it is necessary
to re‐circulate more EGR gases into the system. In
A very low load points the exhaust back pressure is
less and this limits the amount of EGR that is fed
B
into the engine. Here the air intake throttle is used
to enable the flow of EGR gases even at low exhaust
back pressure conditions, by restricting the fresh air
flow.
C The opening and closing of the throttle is controlled
by EMS ECU based on the amount of EGR flow and
the back pressure of exhaust gas. The throttle valve
has a DC motor, a metallic flap (aluminum body),
gear arrangements to transfer the motion from the
DC motor to flap, and a hall effect sensor that
A. Aluminium Body senses the position of the valve. This position
B. Metallic Flap sensor gives input to the EMS ECU, ensuring that
the desired position demanded by the EMS ECU is
C. Manifold Inlet
achieved. The DC motor is driven accordingly and
the throttle valve is actuated. The position sensor
gives feedback about the current valve position
which is then corrected to meet the desired
position.
Breather (Oil Separator) System
A. Oil Separator
B. Clean Gas To Air Filter
B The breather system provides proper ventilation for
A the crank case. The gas from the crank case flow to
the oil separator where the oil is separated and the
gas is sent to the intake. The separated oil is routed
back to the crank case. The oil separator has baffles
and cyclones by construction. When the flue gases
pass through the baffles the oil is separated due to
the sudden change in momentum and when it flows
through the cyclone the oil is separated due to
centrifugal action. Whenever the PCV hose is
disconnected the error signal is sent to OBD.
Trouble Shooting
Inspection and Verification
1. Verify the customer‘s concern.
2. Visually inspect the air intake system for any noticeable signs of mechanical damage.
3. If an obvious cause is found, correct the same before proceeding to the next step.
4. If the cause is not found visually during the inspection, refer to the chart given below.
Troubleshooting Chart
Symptom Possible Causes Remedy
1. Air intake is obstructed. 1.Check the air filter and air intake tract.

Replace if required
2. Air leak in the pressure lines 2. Replace the air intake hoses or clip if
extending from turbo to intercooler required.
and extending from intercooler to
manifold. 3. Replace if necessary.<002 Bold> For
additional information refer to Diag‐
3. Boost pressure pipe/hose assembly is nosis and Testing section of engine.
Engine underpow‐ damaged.
ered 4. Check the throttle valve and replace
the throttle unit if required.
4. Improper opening of throttle valve.
5. Replace the inlet manifold gasket.
5. Damage or crack of inlet manifold
gasket. 6. Check the EGR mixer and replace if
required.
6. Improper opening of EGR mixer.
1. Diesel Particulate Filter (DPF) Failure. 1. <002 Bold>For additonal inform‐

tion refer to Engine Removal and
Black smoke
Installation removal and installa‐
tion section.
1. A clogged air filter element. 1. Clean or replace the air filter ele‐

ment.
2. Obstruction in the crankcase breather. 2. Locate and remove the restriction in
crankcase breather.
3. Obstruction in air intake of the turbo‐ 3. Check the crankcase and replace it if
charger compressor. necessary.
Excess oil consump‐ 4. Change the manifold gasket or
4. Leaks in the inlet manifold mounting
tion replace the manifold.
face which allows the entry of dust
particles.
5. Locate the leaks, change the hose or
5. Air leakage between the turbocharg‐ clamp if required. <002 Bold> For
er and intake manifold. additional information refer to Diag‐
nosis and Testing section of engine.
1. Clogged air filter element. 1. Clean or replace the air filter ele‐

ment.
2. Restriction in air intake to compressor 2. Locate and remove obstruction in

duct. air intake to compressor duct.
3. Air leakage between the turbocharg‐ 3. Locate the leaks, and change the
Blue smoke
er and the intake manifold.
hose or clamp if required.<002
Bold> For additional information
refer to Diagnosis and Testing
section of engine.
Whining noise 1. Indication of an air leak between the 1. Check and replace the inlet and
turbocharger and the inlet manifold. outlet hoses of the intercooler.
clearly audible after
Tighten the clamps at the inlet and
2000 RPM outlet. of the intercooler. Check the
hoses for leak.<002 Bold> For
additional information refer to
Diagnostics and Testing section of
Turbocharger.
Component Inspection and Action Table
Component Inspection Action
Air filter • Inspect the air filter element for possible damage. • Replace the filter

element.
• Inspect the air filter element for clogging. • Replace the filter

element.
Service Indica‐ • Red band visible. • Replace the filter element

tor and reset the service
indicator.
• Indicator damage or cracked. • Replace service indicator.
• Inspect air intake manifold for cracks or distortion. • Replace if cracks or

damages are found.
Air intake man‐ • Check for air leakage between block and intake • Check surface for
ifold and hoses manifold. distortion.
• Clean the water drain
• Check water clogging in filter housing. holes and refit.
Intercooler <002 Bold>For additonal informtion refer to Component
Test removal and installation section..
Care of the System
The performance of the engine is dependent on ensuring that the following maintenance is carried out as per
schedule without fail.
Air filter element: Replace the air cleaner element every 30,000 miles under normal operating conditions.
Under highly dusty or polluting conditions, the air cleaner element should be replaced earlier.
In any case, replace air filter element as soon as the red band appears on the service indicator mounted on
the intake hose.
If the filter element is not replaced on time, the vehicle’s performance gets affected.
CAUTION
Under extremely dusty conditions early replacement of the air filter element may be required.
It should be noted that if the engine runs with a clogged air cleaner, then it will lead to the seepage of oil
from the turbocharger into the air intake system.
NOTICE
Ensure that only the recommended engine oil is used and the specified drain intervals are maintained.
Check for oil leaks in the air intake system and if traces are found check the oil separator system.
Do’s and Don’t’s for Air filter element
SL. NO DO’S REASONS
1. Use only genuine air filter element. Unauthorized air filter element usage may lead to

malfunctioning of air intake system.
2. Clean the top housing, bottom housing, Dirty and clogged housing results in less air flow.

and support grate with clean and dry
cloth or brush.
3. Ensure that there is no physical damage Damage and improper sealing have adverse effect in
the engine performance.
visible on the filter media and on the
sealing gasket.
4. While assembling the air cleaner, make Misalignment may lead to leakage of air flow.

sure that support grate is in position.
5. While assembling the element, the most
porous layer will be at the bottom and
This sequence ensures the air gets filtered properly
will rest against the bottom grate. Finer and efficiently.
layers are placed progressively above the
coarser layers.
6. Tighten diagonally opposite bolts while Incorrect sequence of tightening may lead to improper

sealing.
re‐assembling the air cleaner housings.
7. Check for any leakage in the air intake Leakage in the air intake system will lead to less air
system. flow.
SL. NO DONT’S REASONS
1. Do not use spurious air filter element. Unauthorized air filter element usage may lead to

malfunctioning of air intake system.
2. Do not clean the air filter element with Usage of solvents is not recommended and may cause
pressurized air/water/gasoline/diesel. improper air filtration.
etc.
3. Do not use oil on the filter element. Usage of oil is not recommended and may cause
improper air filtration.
4. Do not squeeze the filter element. This may lead to the elongation of the porosities in the
filter element.
5. Do not use the filter element if it is This will result in failure of ail filtration.
physically damaged.
In Car Repair
Air Filter Element
1. Disconnect and isolate the negative terminal of
the battery.
2. Using a 0.31”(8mm) socket and wrench set,
loosen the hose pipe securing clip lock screw (A)
and detach the hose (B) from the air filter
assembly.
A
SE
RVI
CE IND
RA ICATOR
NG
E : 70 m r
ba
PA
RT
NO : 03 CO680N
13A
3. Disconnect the HFM sensor connector and

position it aside.
4. Using a 0.19”(5mm) Allen key, loosen the air

filter top cover mounting bolts (A) and remove
the cover (B) from the assembly.
B
A
PRESS
TO
RESET
SERVICE INDICATOR
RANGE : 70 mbar
PART NO:0313ACO
- 680N
5. Remove the filter element from the air filter
housing and place it in a secure place.
SERVICE INDICATOR
RANGE : 70 mbar
PART NO:0313ACO
- 680N
CAUTION
Cleaning the foam is not recommended under any circumstances. Replace the foam if it is torn or if the lay‐
ers are separated.
NOTICE
The filter grate element need not be removed while replacing the air filter element. Incase the element is
removed it will be located in one position only. This can be identified by the circular notch on the grate and
should be facing the air mass sensor side.
Inspection
1. Check thoroughly for air filter element damage, if
necessary replace it.
2. Clean the water drain holes (A) in the housing.
NOTICE
While assembling the element, most porous layer will be at the bottom and will rest against the bot‐
tom grate. Finer layers are placed progressively above the coarser layers.
Air Filter Housing Assembly
Removal
loosen the inlet hose lock clip screw (A) and
detach the hose from the filter assembly (B).
NOTICE
Engine should be switched OFF and the igni‐
B tion key removed, prior to any removal work
A on the Engine.
SERVICE INDICATOR
RANGE : 70 mbar
PART NO:0313ACO
- 680N
2. Disconnect the HFM sensor from connection

and position it aside.
1.
NOTICE
Handle the HFM Sensor carefully, be cautious
while disconnecting to avoid damage.
3. Remove the dirty hose secured to the

condenser seal.
loosen the clamp screw (A) and remove the
hose (B) its position.
PRESS
TO
RESET
SERVICE INDICATOR
RANGE : 70 mbar
PART NO:0313ACO
- 680N
A
loosen the mounting bolts (A) of the air filter
assembly (B).
A
B
6. Carefully remove the air filter assembly from

the vehicle.
Installation
• To install, reverse the removal procedure.
• Tighten the mounting bolts to the specified torque.
NOTICE
Handle the HFM Sensor carefully, so that it is not damaged while connecting.
Air Filter Service Indicator
Removal
1. Using a 0.67” (17mm) (A) open end spanner, hold
the service indicator (B) mounting on the intake
hose and using a 0.43”(11mm) spanner (C) remove
C the service indicator.
ESS
PRTO T
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AT
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C
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68
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Inspection
1. Check the service indicator for any physical damage.
Installation
1. To install, reverse the removal procedure.
Clean Side Intake Hose
Removal 1. Using a 0.31”(8mm) socket and wrench set,
loosen the clean side intake hose lock clip screw (A)
and detach the hose from the filter assembly (B).
NOTICE
tion key removed, prior to any removal work
B on the Engine.
A
SERVICE INDICATOR
RANGE : 70 mbar
PART NO:0313ACO
- 680N
2. Using a suitable plier, pull back the clamp (A) and
remove the positive crankcase ventilation hose (B).
A
B
SERVICE INDICATOR
RANGE : 70 mbar
PART NO:0313ACO
- 680N
3. Disconnect the atmospheric pressure hose (A) to

the vacuum modulator from the clean side air
intake hose.
Inspection
Installation
Dirty Side Intake Hose
Removal
1. Remove the clean side intake hose.
loosen the dirty side intake hose lock clip screw (A)
and detach the hose from the filter assembly (B).
NOTICE
PRESS
TO
RESET
SERVICE INDICATOR A tion key removed, prior to any removal work
on the Engine.
RANGE : 70 mbar
PART NO:0313ACO
- 680N
3. Pull out the dirty side intake hose lock clip screw
and detach the hose (A) from the scoop end (B).
PRESS
TO
RESET
SERVICE INDICATOR
RANGE : 70 mbar
PART NO:0313ACO
- 680N
A
B
Inspection
Installation
Intake Manifold
Removal
1. Remove the Intercooler.
2. Remove EGR unit.
A
3. Disconnect the coupler (B) to the throttle valve
actuator (A).
NOTICE
tion key removed, prior to any removal work
on the Engine.
4. Using a 0.47”(12 mm) socket and wrench, loosen

the mounting bolts (A) to the EGR mixer plate.
Remove the EGR mixer plate with the throttle valve
and the intercooler outlet hose (B).
A
B
5. Unlock the wiring harness clips (A) from the inlet
manifold bracket.
6. Using a 0.47”(12 mm) socket and wrench, remove
the oil dip stick mounting bracket bolt (A) from the
cylinder head water outlet pipe.
7. Using the MST, loosen the HP line (A) from the
fuel rail.
8. Using a suitable spanner, loosen and remove the

HP line (A) from the HPP.
A
9. Using a 0.39”(10 mm) socket and wrench, loosen
and remove the HP line mounting bolt (A) from
bracket (B).
A
10. Using a 0.39”(10 mm) socket and wrench,

remove the DPF sensor mounting bolt (A) and keep
the sensor with the pressure port hoses aside.
A
CAUTION
Do not remove the pressure port hose to the DPF
sensor, since the ports and the hose are identical.
If these hoses are wrongly installed, it could lead
to malfunctions in the emission system and trig‐
gering of the check engine lamp.
11. Disconnect the boost pressure sensor coupler

(A).
loosen the intake manifold bolts (A) and remove the
B
intake manifold (B).
A
A
Inspection
1. Check for any physical damages to the intake manifold.
Installation
NOTICE
Replace the gaskets to the intake manifold / throttle valve whenever removed from the engine.
Description Specification
Air velocity between the air filter compressor inlet 35 m/sec.
Air velocity between the compressor outlet and the inlet manifold 50 m/sec. (max)
Maximum static back pressure at downstream of turbine 60 m bar
Rated Air Flow of the System 540 Kg/hr. 450 m3/hr. at
rated engine speed 4000
rpm
Mechanical Service Indicator Rating 70mbar
Tool Description Torque in Nm
Air cleaner Mounting Bolts 25 ± 5
HFM mounting bolts 4.5 ± 0. 5
Tightening torque for worn gear clamps at intake hoses 4.5 ± 0.5
Allen screws between top and bottom air cleaner housings 1.5 ± 0.5
Service indicator fitment on intake hose 4.5 ± 0.5
Inlet manifold mounting bolt 25 ± 3
EGR mixer plate mounting bolts 25 ± 3
Cooling System
Table of Content
Description……………………………………………………………………….…….……………..........
In Car Repair………..………………………………………………………………...........................
Technical Specification……………………………….………………………………………………….
Description
Engine Cooling System ‐ Overview
The cooling system is designed to ensure that all engine components are maintained at appropriate
temperatures under all driving conditions. The cooling system also helps the Heating, Ventilation and Air
Conditioning (HVAC) system to maintain desired temperature inside the cabin. The cooling method adopted
is closed loop, pressurized liquid and forced circulation type.
The cooling system primarily consists of the following components and sub‐ systems:
• Radiator • Primary shroud
• Degassing tank • Secondary shroud
• Pressure cap • Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) precooler
• Water pump • EGR cooler
• Viscous fan • Coolant hoses and clamps
• Thermostat • Engine coolant mixture
Water pump is of centrifugal type which pressurizes the coolant and circulates it throughout the system
circuit. Inside engine, coolant flows from wer pump to cylinder block and then to cylinder head.
In the main circuit, coolant flows from cylinder head to inlet side of thermostat. If temperature of coolant is
lower than specified limit, the thermostat valve remains closed, and coolant goes through the bypass hose to
water pump. Once coolant temperature increases beyond specified limit, the thermostat valve start opening
and coolant passes through the radiator.
Radiator is down flow, corrugated fin type. In radiator, coolant rejects heat to atmosphere there by becoming
cooler and is again fed to the water pump.
Pull type of viscous fan is placed behind the radiator core. Viscous fan drive engages or disengages depending
upon temperature of air reaching the bimetallic c on fan, after passing through radiator core. Between radiator
core and viscous fan, primary shroud is provided over which secondary shroud get snap‐fitted. Four condenser
seals are also provided to help air flow through core of heat exchangers.
In second auxiliary circuit, coolant is forced to flow from cylinder head to main EGR cooler and then to EGR
pre‐cooler. The coolant flowing through these coolers extract heat from exhaust gases and is again fed back to
water pump.
In third auxiliary circuit, coolant is forced to flow from cylinder block to engine oil cooler and then to cabin
heater. Inside engine oil cooler, coolant extracts heat from engine lubricating oil. Inside cabin heater, coolant
rejects heat to the air inside HVAC unit which in turn is used to maintain desired temperatures inside the
cabin.
For pressurizing the whole engine cooing system and to store coolant, degassing tank with pressure cap is
provided. If system pressure falls below or rises above specified limits, valve inside the cap get operated to
control it. The system is kept pressurized primarily to ensure higher boiling point of the coolant mixture. Two
inlets located at the top of degassing tank are connected to radiator top tank and EGR cooler hose
respectively. The internal baffles of degassing tank make coolant to pass through restricted, pre‐defined flow
path and deaerate the coolant. Outlet of degassing tank is connected to radiator outlet hose which in turn,
fed coolant to water pump.
Degassing tank allows coolant to expand or contract depending upon temperature. When coolant is at normal
room temperature, it's level should be maintained between 'MIN' (minimum) and 'MAX' (maximum) marking
provided on side walls of degassing tank. Coolant level should be checked only when vehicle is parked on flat‐
horizontal surface and coolant is at normal room temperature. Coolant can be topped‐up through the
degassing tank filler neck after removing the pressure cap. For draining coolant from the system, drain plug is
provided on radiator bottom tank.
Coolant mixture used in this system is 50% aqueous solution of BASF Glysantin G 37‐92 engine coolant. Top
up only with recommended Ready To Use (RTU) coolant for ensuring required performance, anti‐freezing and
corrosion protection. Do not add water directly. Mixing with other brand of coolants should be avoided and
not recommended. Coolant should be drained out of system and replaced with new mixture every XXXX miles
or 3 years, whichever is earlier.
Engine Oil Cooler
The Multi plate aluminum oil cooler in the engine
coolant system provides passages in which some are
used for oil circulation and some passages are used
for coolant circulation. Hot oil from the cylinder
block enters the cooler and circulates through the
passages which are surrounded by the cooling water
on both sides. The cooled oil then comes out of the
cooler and flows into the filter.
The cooling water for the cooler is taken from the
cylinder block water gallery. After cooling the oil,
the hot water passes through the water pump inlet.
Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor
The Engine coolant temperature sensor is an NTC
type of sensor which sends coolant temperature
information to the EMS ECU. The ECU processes this
information for calculating fuel injection quantity
and timing. If the engine overheating then ECU will
switch off the engine for protection.
Water Pump
The centrifugal type water pump pressurizes the
coolant and circulates it throughout the system
circuit. The coolant flows from the pump to the
cylinder block and then to the cylinder.
A water pump is provided with the impeller which is
formed by seven vanes. The impeller is placed inside
an involute casing. The drive for the water pump is
taken from the crank shaft (damper pulley) via a
belt with the ratio of 1:31.
Viscous Fan
A viscous fan is connected to a drive pulley by
viscous coupling. The drive for the pulley is taken
from the water pump end (drive ratio is 1:31 with
crank shaft). The fan cools the radiator which in turn
cools the engine coolant.
The viscous fan is placed behind the radiator core.
The fan drive engages or disengages depending upon
the temperature of air passing through radiator core
and reaching the bimetallic coil on the fan. The fan
will engage at the temperature of 80° C ± 3° C
(176°F± 37.4°F) and will disengage at 45° C (113°F).
The viscous coupling works according to the
following principle. When the air surrounding the
coupling crosses the designed limit, the coupling
engages the fan with the pulley by transferring the
positive drive to the pulley and provides more
cooling to the radiator. When the air surrounding
the coupling flows down, the fan gets disconnected
from the pulley and rotates freely.
Thermostat valve
Thermostat valve is essentially a coolant flow control
device which gets operated by virtue of heat
received from engine coolant flowing across it.
Thermostat valve helps in regulating the operating
temperature of engine by controlling the amount of
coolant flowing through radiator.
When engine and coolant is relatively colder,
thermostat valve remains closed thereby preventing
coolant from flowing through radiator. Coolant goes
directly to water pump inlet. Because of this, coolant
and hence engine progressively get warmer. Once
the engine and coolant is warm enough, valve starts
opening up, allowing a portion of coolant to flow
through radiator.
Extent of valve opening and hence amount of
coolant flowing through radiator depends upon the
temperature of engine coolant flowing across it.
Valve starts opening at 188°F (87°C) and fully opens
up at 208°F (98°C).
Trouble Shooting
2. Visually inspect the cooling system for any noticeable signs of leakages and mechanical damage.
3. If an obvious cause is found, correct the same before proceeding to the next step.
4. If the cause is not found visually, refer to the troubleshooting chart given below.
5. All the components should be inspected for wear and replaced if necessary.
Mechanical
• Check the viscous fan for any damage.
• Check for any leakage in the degassing tank and radiator.
• Check the hoses in the cooling system for any damage or leakage.
• Check the thermostat and its housing for any leakages and damages.
Diagnosis Chart
Engine does not 1. Thermostat valve stuck at partial/fully 1. Perform thermostat test, and replace
reach normal open condition. it if necessary.
operating 2. Viscous fan drive remains engaged 2. Check the viscous fan and replace if
temperature. even at low air temperatures. necessary.
1. Mechanical damage in shrouds. 1. Tighten the bolts on primary shroud.

Snap fit the shroud over primary, and
replace the shrouds if necessary.
2. Loose water pump impeller or bear‐ 2. Replace the water pump.
ing failure.
3. Loose mounting of the pump. 3. Tighten the pump mounting bolt.
4. Damaged belt. 4. Check the auto‐tensionors, inspect the

belt and replace if found to be dam‐
Noise from aged.
engine‐while 5. Stretched or damaged fan belt. 5. Inspect the pulleys for damage and
idling /driving Replace the affected belt.
6. Rough surface on the drive pulley’s. 6. Inspect the pulleys for damage and
Replace the affected belt / pulley.
7. Improper belt alignment. 7. Check the belt alignment and rectify.
8. Alternator bearing failure. 8. Replace the alternator bearing.
9. Idler pulley bearing failure. 9. Replace the idler pulley bearing.
10. Idler mounting bracket failure. 10. Replace the idler mounting bracket.
1. Coolant level is too low or too high 1. Maintain the coolant level between

MIN and MAX marking on the degas‐
sing tank when coolant is at normal
room temperature and the vehicle is
parked on flat‐horizontal surface.
2. Leakages at inner side the cooling sys‐ 2. Check and repair any coolant leakages
tem. from radiator, hose, joints, thermostat
housing, water pump, cylinder head,
crank case, cabin heater etc.
3. External blockages in heat exchangers 3. Check and clean/clear external block‐
restricting the air flow. ages from core/fins of the radiator,
condenser.
4. Damages in shroud/condenser seals 4. Check and replace shrouds and
the limiting air flow. condenser seal if necessary.
5. Presence of air bubbles inside 5. Deaerate/bleed/purge the cooling
the system. system thoroughly.
6. Internal blockages in the system due 6. Check and clear the internal blockages
to casting flashes from engine by flushing/draining and refilling the
components, or external system.
contamination restricting coolant flow.
Engine getting
7. Improper ratio of antifreeze and wa‐ 7. Drain and refill specified coolant mix‐
over heated
ter inside system. ture
(excessively high
engine coolant
temperature) 8. Contaminated or aged coolant mix‐ 8. Drain and refill specified coolant
ture inside system mixture.
9. Thermostat valve stuck at partial/fully 9. Check and replace the thermostat
closed condition valve if necessary.
10. Insufficient air flow due to faulty vis‐ 10. Check the viscous drive fan engage‐
cous fan. ment/disengagement and replace it if
necessary.
11. Insufficient air flow due to faulty 11. Check the condenser fan engage‐
condenser fan. ment/disengagement, pressure switch,
electrical wiring continuity and re‐
place it if necessary.
12. Insufficient water flow due to faulty 12. Check the seal, shaft and impeller and
water pump replace the water pump if necessary.
13. Check and replace the pressure cap if
13. Faulty pressure cap. necessary.
14. Replace the cylinder head gasket if ev‐
14. Gas mixing with the coolant inside idence of gas mixing is found.
the engine.
15. Replace the water pump drive belt.
15. Faulty or damaged water pump drive
belt.
Hoses collapse 1. Vacuum created inside the system 1. Faulty vacuum valve of pressure cap.

while the en‐ Check and replace the pressure cap if
gine is running. necessary.
1. Fan blades striking a surrounding ob‐ 1. Locate the fan blade contact and re‐
ject. pair it if necessary.
2. External blockages in the heat ex‐ 2. Check and clean/clear external block‐
Noisy viscous changers restricting the air flow ages from core/fins of radiator and‐
fan. condenser.
3. Defective viscous fan bearing.
3. Replace the viscous fan.
4. Loosen fan mounting bolt. 4. Replace the fan mounting bolt.
1. Low cylinder head torque. 1. Replace the cylinder head gasket, and

adjust the torque as per procedure.
Coolant loss. 2. Faulty cylinder head gasket. 2. Replace the cylinder head gasket.
3. Blow hole in the crankcase, cylinder 3. Replace the affected part.

head and liner.
1. Coolant level is too high. 1. Park the vehicle on flat horizontal sur‐

face and allow the coolant to cool
down to ambient temperature. Check
and correct coolant level.
Coolant spill 2. Coolant level is too high and insuffi‐ 2. Check wether the cap is tightened suf‐
over from ficiently. Check sealing of pressure cap.
cient sealing between the degassing If required replace the degassing tank
degassing tank.
tank neck and pressure cap. assembly.
3. Engine getting over heated. 3. Follow the corrective measures as sug‐
gested for overheating in the trouble
shooting chart.
1. Coolant mixes with oil 1. Check and rectify.
2. Oil cooler punctured/damaged be‐ 2. Carry out the pressure test

Water Observed tween coolant and oil passage
in Oil Sump
3. Blow holes causing the coolant and oil 3. Check and rectify
to mix with each other in crankcase
galleries.
Drive Belt 1. Check the accessory drive 1. Replace the belt and adjust

belt for abrasion, cracking,
improper installation, uneven
rib wear, misalignment,
chunk‐out, gravel penetra‐
tion and piling
Water Pump 1. Check for leakages. 1. Replace the water pump

2. Check for bearing noise. 2. Replace the water pump
Fan 1. Check for physical damage. 1. Replace the Fan.

2. Check for oil leakage. 2. Replace the Fan.
Degas Tank 1. Check for physical damage 1. Replace the degas tank.

like cracks, wear and tear.
Thermostat 1. Check for physical damage. 1. Replace the thermostat as‐

2. Check thermostat normal op‐ sembly.
eration. 2. Perform thermostat valve test
and replace if required.
Radiator 1. Check for physical damage, 1. Replace radiator if required.

fin distortion etc.
2. Check for radiator blockage. 2. Replace the radiator, if found
to be blocked.
Pressure Cap 1. Check the cap for physical 1. Replace if required.

damage.
2. Check pressure cap for leak‐ 2. Perform pressure cap test and
age. replace if required.
Coolant Hoses 1. Check hoses for cracks, dis‐ 1. Replace the concerned hose
tortion or flaring. and perform coolant pres‐
sure test.
Care of the System
Recommended Engine Coolant Replacement/Filling and Bleeding Procedure
1. Park the vehicle on flat‐horizontal surface. Keep the parking brake fully engaged and keep transmission
shift lever in 'P' position.
2. Verify that engine and hence coolant is at normal room temperature. Never remove the pressure cap if
engine is still hot.
3. Slowly open the degassing tank cap. Never open the pressure cap quickly. This will ensure progressive
pressure release in the system.
4. Remove the drain plug on the radiator bottom. Drain the coolant completely. Refit the drain plug. Fill the
new (prescribed) coolant mixture in system from degassing tank filler neck.
5. Loosely fit the degassing tank pressure cap. Do not tighten it fully.
6. Coolant should be filled till fill level reaches just
below the 'MAX' making on degassing tank as
shown below. Check the system for leakages.
CAUTION
MAX Always maintain required coolant level and Use
MIN
recommended engine coolant and in specified
mixture ratio only.
7. Start the engine and run it at approximate 1200 rpm for approximately 5 minutes.
8. Press accelerator pedal slowly near to full and then release it instantly. Repeat this cycle multiple times
for approximately 2 minutes.
9. Caution should be observed, as the cap is not tightened fully till now, there could be coolant splashes
near the degassing tank.
10. After the above, stop the engine. Press/release the coolant hoses so as to drive entrapped air to some
extent
11. Fully tighten the pressure cap on degassing tank.
12. Start the engine and warm it until thermostat valve opens. This can be verified by touching the radiator
inlet hose with hand and feeling the warm coolant flowing inside it.
13. Press accelerator pedal slowly near to full and then release it instantly. Repeat this cycle multiple times
for approximately 5 minutes
14. Stop the engine and remove the pressure cap. Let the engine cool down.
15. Check the coolant level in degassing tank. If required, add coolant mixture so as to bring the level
between 'MIN' and 'MAX' markings. Tighten the pressure cap fully over degassing tank.
16. Once any rework/service is done on cooling system, It is highly recommended that after running the
vehicle for first XX miles, coolant level should be checked and added if required. While checking the
level, vehicle should be parked on flat‐horizontal surface and coolant should be at normal room
temperature.
Cooling System Draining
WARNING
Never open the coolant tank pressure cap when
the engine is hot. The escaping steam will cause
severe burns and/or injuries.
1. Release the cooling system pressure by slowly

turning the degassing tank cap.
2. Remove the degassing tank cap.
3. Raise and support the vehicle.
4. Using a screw driver, loosen the drain plug (A),

B and drain the coolant completely from the radiator
(B).
5. Install the radiator drain plug after draining the
coolant and lower the vehicle to the ground.
CAUTION
Remove the degassing tank cap covered with a
A
thick cloth to prevent scalding from the cooling
system pressure
Notice
Always replace the coolant at the specified intervals.
In Car Repair
Degassing Tank Removal
CAUTION
Engine should be switched off and allowed to cool down completely. Do not open the degas tank cap when
the engine is hot and pressurized, it will lead to coolant spillage and possible injury.
WARNING
Do not remove the drain cock when engine is hot with pressurized coolant. Serious burns will occur due to
splashing of hot coolant.
1. Disconnect and isolate the negative cable away

from the battery.
2. Using a screw driver, remove the drain plug and
drain the coolant from the radiator. .
3. Using the grip plier, compress the degas inlet
hoses securing clip, and detach the inlet securing
hose (A).
NOTICE
A Place a container beneath the radiator to avoid
spillage of coolant on shop floor.
4. Using the grip plier, compress the degas inlet hose
(A) and remove it from the EGR cooler (B) as shown
below.
A
B
5. Using the grip plier, compress the outlet hose
securing clip, and detach it from the coolant
degassing tank.

remove the mounting bolts (A) of the coolant
degassing tank (B).
A
A
7. Remove the coolant degassing tank from its

position and place it aside.
Inspection
1. Check the coolant degassing tank thoroughly for any damage or leakage and replace it if necessary.
Installation
2. Topup the coolant as required and check for leakages.
Water pump leakage test
Typical sign of failed water pump is leakage through the seal and bearings. Water pump has a small hole
below where the coolant will seep out if the seal or bearing is failed. If the water pump is leaking replace the
pump as soon as possible. Water pump failure can be confirmed by below steps:
1. Remove the V‐belt.
2. Rotate the water pump pulley and check for free rotation.
3. Check for water leakage through the leakage hole.
4. Replace the water pump, if necessary.
Thermostat valve test
1. Remove the thermostat valve from the thermostat housing, by removing the respective screws.
2. Mount the thermostat valve on a suitable fixture, and place the fixture in a container filled with water.
3. Heat the container and measure the temperature of water by using a digital thermometer.
4. Keep track of water temperature and respective valve opening/travel.
5. Thermostat should start opening at 87+/‐2 °C. Once temperature reaches 98+/‐2 °C valve should be fully
open. At this moment, valve travel will be approximately 0.31” (8.0mm).
6. In case thermostat valve behavior does not confirm to above specifications, it should be replaced.
DANGER
Use extreme caution while the engine is running. Do not stand in a direct line with the fan. Do not put your
hands near the pulleys, belt or fan. This will lead to personal injury.
Cooling system leakage test
1. Force low air pressure into the system which cause the coolant to pour or drip from any leak in the
system.
NOTICE
Should not over pressurize the system, since this may lead to leakages and bursting of the coolant hos‐
es. Refer to the pressure ratings prior to the test.
2. Using the pressure tester which is essentially a hand‐operated air pump, pressurize the system for leak
detection.
NOTICE
Refer to the pressure ratings of the system/cap before pressuring an external tester/device, else it will
damage the hose leading to leakage.
Pressure cap test
NOTICE
Refer to the pressure cap ratings prior to testing the cap. Do not over pressurize the cap.
1. Install the pressure cap on the cooling system pressure tester, and pump the tester to pressurize the cap
and watch the pressure gauge.
NOTICE
Refer to the pressure ratings before performing the pressure cap test.
2. The cap valve should open at 1.1+/‐ 0.15 bar gauge pressure and should hold that pressure for at least
one minute. If cap behavior is not as per specification, replace the pressure cap.
3. Other wise install the pressure cap on a degassing tank. Close the two inlet spouts/pipes of degassing
tank. Pressurize the degassing tank through outlet spout/pipe and watch the pressure gauge.
Radiator
Removal
WARNING
Do not remove the drain cock when engine is hot with pressurized coolant. Serious burns will occur due to
1. Disconnect and isolate the negative cable away

from the battery.
2. Using a screw driver, remove the drain plug and
drain the coolant from the radiator. .
B
3. Remove the coolant degassing tank from its
A position.
4. Using a grip plier, compress the degas hose
C
securing clip (A) and remove the hose (B) from top
of the radiator (C).
5. Remove the vacuum modulator outlet hose (A)

from the turbocharger vacuum modulator.
NOTICE
Mark/observe the size of the vacuum hoses
A (inlet and outlet) fitted on the modulator prior to
removal.
6. Remove the radiator top cover mounting bolts (A)
and detach the top cover (B).
B
7. Remove the radiator bottom cover mounting
bolts (A) and detach the bottom cover (B).
B
A
8. Loosen the thermostat by‐pass hose securing clip

and remove the by‐pass hose (A).
9. By using a grip plier, loosen the radiator top inlet
hose clip (A) and detach the inlet hose from the
A radiator (B).
10. Using the grip plier, loosen the radiator bottom
outlet hose clip (A) and detach the outlet hose from
the radiator (B).
11. Remove the thermostat housing assembly.
NOTICE
B A While removing the oil cooler inlet line, drain
the oil into a suitable container to avoid spill‐
age onto the floor.
12. Unlock the lock clip (A), press the lock gently on
both sides and pull the connector out and
disconnect the oil cooler inlet line (B) from the
intank oil cooler.
NOTICE
B Do not put more pressure to unlock the connec‐
tor. Doing so would only lock the connector.
A
NOTICE
While removing the oil cooler inlet line at the
radiator end, drain the oil into a suitable con‐
tainer to avoid spillage onto the floor.
13. Using a 0.39”(10mm) ring spanner, loosen the
radiator fan primary shroud mounting bolts (A) and
B
remove the radiator fan shroud assembly (B).
A
A
14. Using a 1.42”(36mm) open end spanner, loosen

(clockwise) the viscous fan securing nut and remove
the fan assembly.
NOTICE
The viscous fan should be placed in a vertical
position after removal, to avoid damage to the
bi‐metallic heater.
15. Using a 10 mm socket and wrench, remove the

radiator RHS top mounting bolts (A).
radiator LHS top mounting bolts.

radiator RHS bottom mounting bolts (A).
radiator LHS bottom mounting bolts (A).
19. Detach the radiator separately from its position.
Inspection
1. Check the engine radiator thoroughly for any damage or leakage, and replace it if necessary.
Installation
2. Top up the coolant and check for leakages. .
3. Top up AT fluid
Water Pump
Removal
1. Disconnect and isolate the negative cable of the battery.
2. Using a screw driver, remove the drain plug and drain the coolant from the radiator.
NOTICE
Place a container beneath the radiator to avoid spillage of coolant on shop floor.
WARNING
Do not remove the drain cock when the engine is hot and pressurized. Serious burns will occur due to
3. Remove the intercooler NVH cover.
4. Remove the coolant degassing tank.
5. Remove the radiator assembly.
6. Detach the accessory drive belt which drives the water pump and keep it aside.
remove the water pump mounting bolts.
8. Remove the water pump assembly from the

engine.
Inspection
1. Check the water pump thoroughly for any damage or leak, replace it if necessary.
2. Inspect the water pump pulley for play / ease of rotation. Also check for damages.
Installation
1. Replace the water pump O‐ring while installing
the water pump.
3. Refill the engine coolant, check the level and
leakages if any. .
Coolant Hoses ‐ All
Removal
2. Using a screw driver, remove the drain plug and drain the coolant from the radiator.
3. Remove the coolant degassing tank.
NOTICE
WARNING
1. Using a grip plier, compress the degas hose

securing clip (A) and remove the degas hose (B)
from top of the radiator (C).
2. Loosen the radiator by‐pass hose securing clip

(A) at the thermostat (C) and remove the
radiator by‐pass hose (B).
3. Using a grip plier, compress the radiator inlet
B hose securing clip (A) and detach the radiator
inlet hose (B) from the radiator (C).
4. Disconnect the electric connector (A) to the

A
water temperature sensor. Using a grip plier,
compress the thermostat inlet hose securing
B clip (B) and remove the inlet hose from both
the ends.
5. Using a grip plier, compress the EGR cooling

water outlet hose securing clip (A) at the water
pump and remove the hose (B).
6. Using a grip plier, compress the EGR cooling
water inlet hose securing clip (A) at the EGR
cooler and detach the hose (B) from the EGR
cooler.
A
7. Using a grip plier, compress the hose clip (A)

and remove the cooling water inlet hose (B)
from the EGR cooler and also cylinder head.
B
8. Using a screw driver, loosen the securing clips

(A) and remove the inlet and outlet hoses (B)
A from HVAC heater pipes.
B
9. Using a screw driver, loosen the thermostat by‐
pass hose securing clip and remove the by‐pass
hose (A).
10.Using a grip plier, press the hose securing clip

(A) and detach the radiator outlet hose (B) from
the radiator (C).
11.Remove the engine oil cooler inlet and outlet
A coolant hoses.
NOTICE
C The radiator outlet hose, degas tank outlet
hose and the thermostat bypass hose are inte‐
B grated to form one single hose and cannot be
replaced separately.
Inspection
1. Check the coolant hoses for any sign of damage, replace it if necessary.
Installation
2. Top up the coolant, check the level and leakages. .
Thermostat Assembly
Removal
2. Using a screw driver, remove the drain plug and drain the coolant from the radiator. .
NOTICE
WARNING
3. Using a screw driver, loosen the radiator by‐pass

hose securing clip (A) and remove the hose (B) at
the thermostat valve (C).
4. Compress the securing clip (A) and remove the

radiator inlet hose (B) from the thermostat valve (C).
B
5. Compress the securing clip (A) and remove the
hose (B) from the thermostat inlet valve (C).
6. Loosen the windshield washer filler neck

mounting bolt and place aside.
7. Using a 0.39”(10mm) spanner, remove the
thermostat mounting bolts (B) from the thermostat
valve (A).
8. Remove the thermostat valve assembly.
Installation
2. Topup the engine coolant, check the level and leakages.
Thermostat Valve
Removal
1. Disconnect and isolate the negative cable of the
battery.
2. Remove the thermostat valve assembly from its
position and place it properly aside.
remove the mounting bolts (B) of the thermostat
housing top cover (A).
4. Disassemble the thermostat housing and remove

the securing O‐ring (A) from the thermostat valve
(B).
B
5. Remove the thermostat valve from its housing.
Inspection
1. Check the thermostat valve thoroughly for proper operation, if necessary replace it.
Installation
2. Topup the engine coolant, check the level and leakages.
Radiator capacity 0.7 gallons (2.65 Liters)
Cooling system capacity 2.64 gallons (10 Liters) approx.
Engine coolant manufacturer BASF
Engine coolant specifications Glysantin G 37‐23
Coolant‐water ratio 50%
Degassing tank cap: Pressure valve 0.95‐1.25 bar gauge pressure
Degassing tank cap: Vacuum valve 0.05 bar max vacuum
Thermostat valve open travel/temperature start open at 185‐192°F(85‐89°C) with 0.004”
(0.1mm) valve travel
Thermostat full open travel/temperature Full open at 205‐212°F(96‐100°C) with 0.31”
(8.0 mm) valve travel
Radiator leakage test, if needed, to be carried out at 1.38 bar gauge for 20 seconds
Input speed of fan pulley 1.31 X engine speed
Number of fan blades 11
Fan blade size 12.59” (320mm)
Viscous Fan engagement 181‐184°F(80°C ± 3)
Viscous Fan disengagement 113°F(45°C)
Tool Description Torque in Nm Torque in lb.-ft.
Mounting bolts each between radiator tank and side 10 ± 2 7 ± 1

mounting bracket
Radiator assembly mounting bolts 16 ± 2 12 ± 1
Degassing tank mounting bolts 6.5 ± 0.5 5
Bolts between thermostat housing 7.5 ± 0.5 6
Thermostat assembly mounting bolts 7.5 ± 0.5 6
Shroud mounting bolts 6.5 ± 0.5 5
Viscous fan clutch nut 45 ± 5 32 ± 3
Condenser mounting bolts 6.5 ± 0.5 5
Worn gear clamp hose screw at radiator outlet hose 5.5 ± 0.5 4 ± 1
Mounting bolts each for condenser seal LH, RH and top 4.5 ± 0.5 4
Mounting bolts of condenser seal bottom 8 ± 2 6 ± 1
Fuel System
Table of Content
Description……………………………………………………………………….…….……………..........
In Car Repair………..………………………………………………………………...........................
Technical Specification..………………………………………………………………………………….
Torque Specification………………………………………………………………………………………
List of Special Tools(MST).………………………………………………………………………………
Description
Fuel System ‐ Overview
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A. Rail Pressure Sensor I. Fuel Tank

B. Common Rail J. Prefilter/Strainer
C. Fuel Injector K. Fuel Filter
D. Accelerator Pedal L. High Pressure Pump (HPP)
E. Engine Speed (crank) M. Fuel Inlet Pipe to HPP
F. Engine Speed (cam) N. Fuel Inlet to Common Rail
G. Sensors O. Fuel Return Line
H. Engine Management System Electronic Control
Unit (EMS ECU)
The common rail diesel injection system is a pressure accumulator fuel injection system in which production
of pressure and fuel injection are decoupled.
In this system, the fuel pressure is continuously available at the injectors at all times of operation.
The system consists of a high‐pressure system with a common rail diesel pump, a fuel rail (fuel injection
supply manifold) with the high pressure fuel lines, electrically controlled fuel injectors, low‐pressure system
with the fuel supply, return lines, and pressure regulating valve. The fuel filter unit includes fuel filter, water
in fuel sensor, fuel , fuel temperature sensor and fuel priming unit.
Generation of pressure and fuel injection are performed separately on the common rail diesel fuel injection
system. Because of this, the increase of injection pressure is largely independent of engine speed and
injection quantity.
The HPP supplies fuel through the high pressure pipes into the common rail and to the injectors, and raises
the injection pressure.
Injection timing and quantity are calculated by the Engine Management System Electronic Control Unit (EMS
ECU). Using various input variables, the EMS ECU controls the electrically operated injectors, which inject the
required quantity of fuel into the combustion chamber.
The fuel pressure sensor on the common rail provides rail pressure information to the EMS ECU. The Pressure
Regulating Valve (PRV) regulates the rail pressure taking information from the EMS ECU.
The PRV controls the fuel metering for the system by using the fuel metering valve and the fuel pressure
regulator, so the optimum fuel pressure is available in every operating state. Excess fuel passes through the
fuel return pipe to the fuel tank.
In the fuel tank, a venturi pump ensures that the returned fuel fills the fuel supply unit in the tank.
Fuel injector
The top (fuel entry) end of the fuel injector is
C attached to an opening on the fuel rail. The injector
uses electric actuation for precise control of
injection. When electric current is passed through a
A
stack of electrodes, the stack is compressed.This
B
compression of electrodes is used to open the
passage for high pressure fuel leading to fuel
injection. electric actuation is very fast so the
injections can be very precisely controlled.
The injectors can inject very small quantities of fuel.
D This reduces noise while having the advantage of
lesser particulate emissions. The injectors are
A. Electrical connector operated at a maximum injection pressure of
26,107psi(1,800bar). The configuration of the nozzle
B. Overflow outlet
used is 360 CC/30 seconds which flows through
C. Fuel from common rail seven holes and a 148 degree cone angle.
D. Fuel injection nozzle
Common fuel rail
D. Fuel outlet to injectors
E. Fuel return line/port to the tank
F. Fuel to injector
G G. Fuel return line
E
D F
The common fuel rail is a high pressure accumulator
in which the fuel from HPP is accumulated and is
maintained at required pressure. This is
manufactured by hot forging. The fuel rail is
provided with 26,107psi (1,800bar) pressure.
A B C D
A. Rail pressure sensor
B. Mounting boss
C. Rail body
Common Fuel Rail Sub‐components:
1. Rail
A. Fuel Delivery Ports (to injectors)
B. Fuel Inlet Port from HPP
C A C. PRV Return line
D. Mounting Boss
The rail is a container that consists of six ports. One
port is used to receive high pressure fuel, four ports
are used to deliver fuel to the injectors and the last
port for fuel which returns from the PRV. Each port
B
has a built in throttle which reduces the created
pressure waves when fuel enters/leaves through the
D ports.
E. Drive Shaft
F. Metering Unit
F A
The fuel pump assembly has an integral primary
B feed pump and a HPP. The feed pump is a gear type
pump which sucks the fuel from the tank and feeds
E the HPP i.e. radial piston pump. High pressure is
generated by the radial piston pump having three
C pistons located at 120 degree intervals. The three
cylinders are arranged radially in which the plungers
reciprocate and increase the fuel pressure to the
required level. The flow into the pump is controlled
by an electrical solenoid valve called metering unit.
D
This valve is located at the inlet of the valve. This
meters and controls the amount of fuel that is
A. Pump Outlet to Rail
sucked into the pump in accordance with desired
B. Pump Overflow pressure to be maintained at the rail. The metering
C. Gear Feed Pump unit is an integral part of the HPP and is not
serviceable.
D. Pump Inlet
Fuel lines
The fuel lines are high pressure lines connecting the
common rail to the HPP and to the fuel injectors.
The fuel lines also avoid the possibility of fuel
contamination in the system. The high pressure lines
are marked 1, 2, 3, 4 respectively for easy
identification and installation. These HPP insure air
tight connection and avoid chances of leakages.
Fuel Filter
The fuel filter filters the fuel of small impurities that
may be present in the fuel. The fuel system operates
under high pressure which makes it absolutely
essential for the fuel to be dust free and moisture
free. It has a water separator which filters the
moisture present in the fuel. The high pressure
components in the fuel system require constant
B lubrication which is provided by the diesel fuel.
Hence the diesel fuel is required to be free of
contaminants and also free of moisture.This is
achieved by the water separator and also by a water
in fuel sensor mounted at the lowest portion of the
A fuel filter assembly. This sensor provides the warning
for presence of water in the fuel. In such a situation
A. Sedimenter lock nut water needs to be drained off.The fuel filter
B. Fuel filter assembly also consist of the fuel temperature sensor
and feed pump primer. The purpose of the primer is
to bleed the air in the fuel system during servicing. .
Fuel Feed Primer
This is an integral part of the fuel filter assembly and is mounted on the top of the fuel filter housing. The
fuel feed primer is provided to help in bleeding the air in the fuel system (low pressure circuit) whenever the
fuel filter or the fuel system is serviced.
How to bleed the fuel system (Low pressure circuit):
• Loosen the bleeding screw by 3‐4 turns.
• Switch “ON” the ignition and remove the diesel filling cape.
• Do the bleeding using the hand primer till pressure is felt while pumping.
• Tighten the bled screw.
• Fit the diesel cap and tighten.
Fuel Tank and Strainer
A. Fuel strainer and fuel gauge unit.
A B. Fuel tank.
The fuel tank is a reservoir for the fuel and
incorporates the strainer for primary filtration. The
strainer acts as a primary filter and helps in filtering
the larger impurities which otherwise can get into
the high pressure side of the fuel system. The fuel
tank can hold upto 19 US gallons of fuel. This helps
in increasing the range of the vehicle in a single
fill.The fuel gauge sensor is mounted in the fuel
B tank, it provides the level of fuel in the tank.The
tank is ventilated to the atmosphere so as to avoid
collapse due to the engine vacuum.
Trouble Shooting
2. Visually inspect the fuel tank for any noticeable signs of mechanical damage.
3. If an obvious cause is found during the inspection for the reported concern, correct the same before
proceeding to the next step.
4. If the cause is not found visually during the inspection, refer to the Troubleshooting chart given below.
Diagnosis Chart
Engine will not 1. Clogged fuel filter/fuel lines. 1. Check the fuel supply line and the
start fuel filter. Replace it if necessary.
2. Defective injectors. 2. Check the injectors and replace if
necessary.
3. No fuel in the fuel tank
3. Physically check the fuel level in
the tank. Take corrective action
accordingly.
.
1. Faulty injectors. 1. Check the injectors and replace if

Irregular Com‐ necessary.
bustion noise
2. Contaminated / adulterated fuel. 2. Check the Fuel quality/properties/
contamination by water. Take
corrective action accordingly.
3. Leakages in fuel system (Air entrapment). 3. Check for leakages and rectify

accordingly.If not replace the
affected components.
1. Clogged fuel filter/fuel supply lines. 1. Check the fuel supply line and

correct the clogging. Replace the
fuel filter if required.
2. Fuel level low. 2. Refill the fuel in the tank.
3. Filling of non recommended fuels. 3. Fill only recommended fuel.
Engine speed
reduces 4. Defective fuel pump. 4. Replace the fuel pump.
5. Replace the throttle valve.
5. Defective throttle valve.
6. Replace the fuel injector.
6. Defective fuel injector.
7. Check for faults via MDS and rectify
7. Malfunction in EMS ECU/ TCU systems. accordingly.
1. Defective injectors 1. Check the injectors and replace if

necessary.
2. Fuel level low/ no fuel in tank. 2. Refill the fuel.
3. Replace the fuel filter and inspect
3. Fuel filter/ supply lines/ return pipe to fuel supply lines/return pipe.
tank is blocked.
Engine under
powered 4. Faults in the HPP components. 4. Check for faults via MDS and
rectify accordingly.
5. Boost pressure pipe/hose assembly is 5. Change the gasket or hose.
damaged.
6. Malfunction in EMS ECU/ TCU/ ESC sys‐ 6. Check for faults via MDS and recti‐
fy accordingly.
tems.
Irregular idling 1. Leaking HPP/LP unions or connections. 1. Inspect all LP and HPP lines for
leakages. Take corrective action
2. Contaminated/adulterated fuel. accordingly
3. Air entering into the fuel system through 2. Check the Fuel quality/properties/
contamination by water. Take
the banjo washer at the fuel filter. corrective action accordingly.
4. Defective injectors 3. Replace the banjo washer at the
fuel filter
5. Malfunction in EMS ECU system. 4. Check the injectors and replace if
necessary.
6. For other causes, refer to the air intake/
5. Check for faults via MDS and
engine section rectify accordingly.
1. Defective injectors. 1. Check the injectors and replace if

necessary.Check for faults via MDS
2. Restriction in fuel supply from tank to en‐ and rectify accordingly.
2. Physically check the LP/ HPP lines
gine
White smoke and Filter.Take corrective action.
3. Water contamination in fuel.
3. If water contamination is found,
drain the complete fuel system and
flush it thoroughly with
recommended diesel.
1. Fuel tank is empty. 1. Physically check the fuel level in

the tank. Take corrective action
2. Fuel filter is blocked. accordingly.
2. Replace the fuel filter.
3. HPP defective (Metering valve failure). 3. Check for faults via MDS and re‐
Engine cranks place the HPP if required.
but will not 4. Check for faults via MDS and
start 4. One or more Injector is defective. rectify accordingly. Also check the
injector return flow quantity.
5. Replace the banjo washer at the
5. Air entrapment in the fuel system (from
fuel filter and perform air bleeding
fuel filter).
via the primer.
6. Malfunction in EMS ECU system.
6. Check for faults via MDS and recti‐
fy accordingly.
Misfiring, back 1. Adulterated fuel. 1. Check the Fuel quality/properties/

firing or knock‐ contamination by water. Take
ing in the engine corrective action accordingly.
2. One or more Injector is defective.
2. Check for faults via MDS and rectify
3. Malfunction in EMS ECU system accordingly. Also check the injector
return flow quantity.
4. For other causes, refer to Engine/Air 3. Check for faults via MDS and rectify
Intake/ Turbocharger / Emission control accordingly.
section.
Fuel Consump‐ 1. Adulterated fuel. 1. Determine the type/quality of fuel

tion high filled in the tank.
2. One or more Injector is defective. 2. Check for faults via MDS and rectify
accordingly. Also check the injector
3. Malfunction in EMS ECU system return flow quantity.
3. Replace the fuel injector.
4. For other causes, refer to Engine / Air In‐
take/ Turbocharger / Emission control /
Brake / Engine Cooling section.
• Check for physical damage • Replace the High pressure

especially on the sprocket pump if any part found
and connectors. damaged.
High Pressure Pump
• Check high pressure pump for • Replace high pressure pump
any signs of fuel leakage. if any signs of leakage is
found.
• Check for physical damage. • Replace the fuel rail

assembly.
Fuel Rail • Check for malfunction of rail • Do not dismantle the sensor,
pressure sensor and regula‐ For additional information
tor. refer to diagnostic manual.
• Check fuel lines for physical • Replace the fuel lines if
damage. damage is found.
Fuel Lines (High pressure side)
• Check for leakage from the • Replace the lines if leakage is
lines. found.
• Check lines for physical dam‐ • Replace the line if damage is
age especially crimping. found.
Fuel lines (Low pressure side)
• Check for signs of leakage es‐ • Replace the line if required.
pecially at joints.
• Check for physical damage. • Replace injector if damage is

found.
• Check for signs of leakage. • Replace the injector if
Fuel Injectors
leakage is found.
• Check for carbon deposition • Clean the tip and refix.
at the nozzle tip.
• Check fuel filter assembly for • Replace the fuel filter if leak‐
leakages. ages are found.
• Replace the fuel filter assem‐
• Check for physical damage on bly.
Fuel Filter Assembly
the filter body or connectors.
• Check corroded terminals in • Clean the corroded part and
filter connectors and water refix.
sensors.
• Check for physical damage. • Replace the fuel tank.
Fuel Tank • Check for dirt accumulation • Clean the tank and replace
in tank. the fuel.
• Check the fuel gauge / sen‐ • If the fuel level Gauge / sen‐
sor for operation sor does not operate as in‐
tended, then replace the fuel
level gauge
• Check for leakages from the • If leakages are observed from
Fuel level gauge / sensor
fuel level gauge / sensor the fuel level gauge /sensor,
then replace the gasket to
the fuel gauge and recheck. If
the problem persists, then re‐
place the fuel tank assembly.
• Check for external damages / • If external damages are no‐

leakages / operation of the ticed, then replace the fuel
fuel feed primer filter assembly
• If leakages are found at the
fuel feed primer, first inspect
the primer. If not, replace the
Fuel feed primer (Not serviceable) fuel filter assembly.
• Check the fuel feed primer

for ease of operation. If the
primer is hard or does not
operate, then replace the fuel
filter assembly unit.
• Check for leakages at the sen‐ • If leakages are observed at

sor mounting / location the fuel temperature sensor
mounting port, Then clean
and inspect again for leakag‐
es. If still the problem per‐
sists then replace then fuel
filter assembly.
Fuel temperature sensor • Check the sensor coupler for • If sulfation or corrosion is ob‐
damage / sulfation served in the coupler to the
(Not serviceable)
fuel temperature sensor, then
clean the coupler and re‐in‐
sert. If the coupler is dam‐
aged for any reason, then
replace the fuel filter assem‐
bly and if necessary repair /
replace the affected wiring
harness.
• Check for external damage to • If the fuel filler cap is dam‐
the fuel filler cap. aged, then replace the cap
• Check if the fuel filler cap • If the fuel filler cap fails to
Fuel filler cap locks onto the fuel filler neck. lock onto the neck, then in‐
spect for damages and re‐
place only the affected
components.
• Check for leakages. • If the fuel return line is leak‐

ing, then replace the fuel re‐
turn line.
• Check for mounting outlet • If the outlet port of the re‐
ports for damage. turn line is damaged, then re‐
Fuel return line
place the return line.
• Check the one‐way valves/ • If any damages are found on
restrictions in the return line the one‐way valves or restric‐
for damage. tions in the return line, then
replace the return line.
Care of the System
The maintenance should be performed as per the schedule to maintain the performance of the fuel system.
In general, the fuel injection system depends on supply of clean diesel for proper functioning of the fuel
system.
Fuel Filter
The fuel filter is equipped with a water separator. If
the water indication is displayed on the instrument
panel, then the water should be immediately
drained. Water sediments which get accumulated at
bottom of the fuel filter should be drained when
indicator comes on in the instrument cluster.
NOTICE
The precision finished internal components of
the HPP (fuel system) depends on the lubricating
A
property of diesel. Care has to be taken to avoid
the presence of water in the system. Regularly
drain the water in the fuel filter. If this is not
done, the water present in the fuel may break
A. Fuel Filter Water Sedimenter down the fuel components and lead to seizure.
Fuel Tank and Strainer
A. Fuel Strainer With Main Assembly
B. Fuel Tank
To ensure the proper and efficient performance, the
fuel tank and fuel strainer should be checked and
A cleaned at the recommended periodic interval.
Gradually blow the compressed air with low pressure
into the fuel strainer. Then clean the fuel tank thor‐
oughly as recommended.
Tentative Procedure which can be followed:
1. Disconnect the positive battery cable, main line, return line, filler hose and the vent/breather hose
2. Disconnect the electrical connector from Fuel tank unit
3. Remove the fuel tank from the vehicle
4. Remove the fuel tank unit by un‐fastening the bolts
5. Drain fuel from tank
6. Clean the fuel tank and strainer
7. Blow compressed air gradually with low pressure through fuel tank unit in the opposite direction of fuel
supply
8. Assemble the fuel tank unit on tank
9. Refit the fuel tank unit, reconnect the main line, return line, filler hose, breather hose and tank unit
electrical connections
10. Refill fuel in the fuel tank. (Fuel tank capacity is approximately 70 Liters)
11. Bleed the fuel system
12. Recommended Torque Values:‐
• Fuel tank unit fitment (4.5+/‐0.5Nm) 3.3+/‐ 0.3 lb‐ft.
• Worm gear drive clamps (4.5+/‐0.5Nm) 3.3+/‐ 0.3 lb‐ft.
• Fuel tank mounting on chassis (25+/‐5Nm) 18+/‐ 4lb‐ft.
Do’s and Don’t’s for Fuel System
SL.NO DO’S
1. Drain the water at every service and check for clogging of the fuel filter.
2. Unplug the injector electrical connectors only after the engine has been switched OFF.
3. Use only EMS ECU to operate injectors.
SL.NO DONT’S
1. Do not try to measure the resistance of the rail pressure sensor. This test is destructive to the inter‐
nal components.
2. Do not remove the fuel return connector.
3. Do not reuse high pressure pipes.
4. Do not remove fuel rail pressure sensor from the fuel rail.
5. Do not use adulterated fuel / performance additives which may lead to damage of components like
injector and HPP.
6. Do not interchange wires at injector coupler terminals.
7. Do not operate the injectors if their body is not connected to the battery ground (Risk of
electrostatic discharge).
8. Do not short circuit the ground of injectors as they will remain open leading to
engine damage.
9. Do not loosen the inlet HPP connector.
11. Do not dismantle the component from the injector body.
Do’s and Don’t’s for High Pressure Fuel Pump
SL.NO DO’S
1. Whenever the HPP is removed immediately place protective dust caps on the connectors.
2. Remove dust protective caps only just before assembly.
3. Handle the pump with care. If a new pump falls down it must be scrapped though it is visibly ok.
4. Pay attention to ensure that there are no contact between hard objects and critical components
like eccentric shaft, LP connectors, flange.
5. Before assembly verify the integrity of the external O‐ring on pump flange.
6. Ensure clean environment while working on the pump especially during assembly.
7. During engine rework, carefully unplug both low pressure fittings (inlet and backflow).
8. Carefully unscrew HP pipe nut from HP connector during removal.
SL.NO DONT’S
1. Do not keep or handle the HPP by applying forces on external components like fittings, M‐Prop,
overflow valve.
2. Do not run the pump in dry condition i.e without lubrication.
3. Do not remove or assemble the M‐Prop electrical when the ignition is switched ON.
4. Do not dismantle the HPP or try to repair any of the components.
5. Do not use adulterated fuel which may lead to damage of components.
Do’s and Don’t’s for Common Rail
SL.NO DO’S
1. The inlet/outlet HP connector and Rail Pressure Sensor and Pressure Control Valve dust protection
caps should be removed just before assembly.
2. Handle the rail with care. If a new rail falls down it must be scrapped though it is visibly ok.
3. Pay attention to ensure that there are no contact between hard objects and critical components
like rail pressure sensor and pressure control valve.
4. Carefully unscrew HP pipe nut from HP connector.
5. Whenever the rail is removed immediately place protective dust caps on the connectors.
SL.NO DONT’S
1. Avoid foreign material entry inside the rail connectors, rail pressure sensor and pressure control
valve.
2. Protect the rail against any external damage.
3. Do not remove or assemble the rail pressure sensor electrical connections when the ignition is
switched ON.
4. Do not dismantle the rail or try to repair any of the components.
6. Do not paint on the type sticker or name plate.
Do’s and Don’t’s for Fuel Filter
SL.NO DO’S
1. Apply thin film of diesel on fuel filter gasket before assembling.
2. Screw the spin on to the casting and tighten by hand only.
3. Cover the open end of the filter till the moment it is about to be assembled
SL.NO DONT’S
1. Avoid foreign material entry inside the rail connectors, rail pressure sensor and pressure control
valve.
2. Protect the filter against any external damage.
In Car Repair
Fuel Filter Removal
DANGER
Keep fuel away from flames and sparks. Failure to follow these instructions may result in personal injury.
1. Remove and isolate a negative cable (A) of the

A battery (B).
CAUTION
Before removing the fuel filter, open the fuel
tank cap to release the pressure from the tank
and fuel lines.
2. Disconnect the water sedimenter connector (A)

from bottom of the fuel filter (B) and drain the
water by releasing the water sedimenter lock nut.
B

the fuel inlet line securing banjo bolt (A) and
separate the fuel inlet line (B) from the fuel filter
A assembly (C).
B
A the fuel outlet line securing banjo bolt (A) and
B separate the fuel outlet line (B) from the fuel filter
assembly (C).

the fuel filter mounting bolts (A) from its mounting
A bracket and remove the fuel filter assembly (B) from
the engine.
6. Remove the water sedimenter lock nut (A) from
the fuel filter (B).
NOTICE
The water sedimenter lock nut should be tight‐
ened or removed only by hand.
B
7. Using the special tool (B), remove the fuel filter
from the fuel filter assembly (A).
A
Installation
2. Always install new banjo bolt and washers.
3. Use the hand primer for priming the system. Start the engine and check for leakages.
CAUTION
While installing the fuel filter element, the copper washers should be changed to avoid fuel rail pressure
variation.
Fuel Injector
Removal
NOTICE
Note the IQA codes for (1) or (all) fuel injector mounted on the head of the injector before you remove it
from the engine. The injectors have to be installed back onto their respective cylinders, do not interchange
or mix up the injectors. This will lead to errors in the system.
1. Remove and isolate a negative cable (A) of the

A battery (B).
2. Detach the wiring harness connector from the

injectors.
NOTICE
Clean the injector seating area before starting
the work.
3. Pop open the press type adapters to remove the
fuel overflow line mounted on the injectors.
CAUTION
While loosening the nuts of supply lines, take
care not to damage the overflow pipe mounted
on the fuel injector. Supply lines must be replaced
at correct position.
4. Using a open end spanner, remove the 0.66”(17

mm) supply lines mounting lock nuts (A) connecting
the fuel rail.
5. Using a open end spanner, remove the 0.66”(17

mm) supply lines mounting lock nuts (A), connecting
the fuel injector.
6. Remove the mounting nut of the injectors and

using the MST, remove the fuel injector (A) from the
cylinder head.
NOTICE
Store the injectors and washers in a dust free place after removing them from the injector holder. Place the
fuel injectors exactly in the same cylinders from where it was removed.
CAUTION
Remove the injectors one by one and mark them according to the corresponding cylinder number and note
the IQA code mentioned on the injectors. The same injector has to be installed back at its respective
position else it may lead to malfunctions.
Inspection
1. Check the fuel injector thoroughly for any damage, and replace if necessary.
Installation
CAUTION
Do not interchange the injectors between cylinders or between vehicles (engine) while installation, if so
the IQA code in the ECU will have to be rewritten according to the injector present on the engine.
CAUTION
While installing the fuel injector, the injector washers should be changed to avoid fuel rail pressure varia‐
tion.
2. Check for leakages in the compression pressure and check for faults via MDS.
CAUTION
In case of replacement of injector(s) refer Mahindra Diagnostic System for programming the new IQA code
of the injector into the EMS ECU memory. If this procedure is not performed it may lead to errors in the
engine system.
CAUTION
Always replace the HP line(s) whenever removed. This is to be performed to avoid leakages from the HP
lines.
Fuel Rail
Removal
1. Remove the fuel rail.
2. Remove the fuel rail carefully and store it in
dust free place.
NOTICE
Remove the HP line bracket at the cylinder head,
incase the rail does not come out easily.
Installation
2. Check for leaks in the fuel system. Connect MDS and check for faults.
CAUTION
Always replace the HP line(s) whenever removed. This is to be performed to avoid leakages from the HP
lines.
Fuel Supply and Return Line
Removal
1. Disconnect and isolate a negative cable (A) of the
A battery (B)..
2. Press and release the quick release coupling of

the fuel supply line (A) and return line (B). Detach
A the fuel lines from the tank.
3. Unhook the fuel lines (A) from the clips (B) in
undercarriage.
A
4. Disconnect the fuel return line (A) from the fuel
leak off line.

the fuel inlet line securing banjo bolt (A) and
separate the inlet line (B) from the fuel feed pump
A (C).
B

A the fuel outlet line securing banjo bolt (A) and
B separate the outlet line (B) from the fuel filter
assembly (C).
7. Using the suitable plier, press and hold the
securing clip (A) of fuel return line. Then pull and
remove the fuel return line (B) from the fuel rail.
8. Using a suitable plier, press and hold the securing
clip of overflow hose. Then pull and remove the fuel
overflow hose from the fuel rail.
9. Press and remove the fuel inlet and return lines
of the HPP.
10. Using the MST, loosen the HP line (A) connecting
to the fuel rail from the HPP.
A
11. Using a 0.40”(10 mm) socket and wrench loosen
the mounting bracket bolt (A) of the HP line at the
cylinder head and detach the HP line mounting
A bracket (B).
12. Using the MST, loosen the high pressure line

connecting to fuel rail.
CAUTION
Always replace the HP line(s) whenever
removed. This is to be performed to avoid leak‐
ages from the HP lines.
Installation
NOTICE
2. Check for any leakages in the fuel system. Replace the HPP lines after removal.
Fuel Tank
Removal
1. Disconnect and isolate a negative cable (A) of the
A battery (B)..
3. Press the coupler clip (A) over the fuel tank and
remove the float sensor (B).
NOTICE
A
B
Store the fuel in a suitable container and in a
safe environment.
4. Using a screw driver, loosen the securing clip (A)

which connects the hose (B) and the breather hose
B pipe on top of the fuel tank (C).
5. Remove the breather hose.
6. Using a flat screw driver, loosen the securing clip
(A) of the fuel inlet hose (B).
B
7. Press and release the quick release coupling of

the fuel supply line (A) and the return line (B).
A Detach the fuel lines from the tank.
8. Using a transmission jack, support bottom of the

fuel tank.
A loosen and remove the mounting bolts (A) of the
fuel tank (B).
10. Lower the jack to bring the fuel tank down from
the vehicle. Remove the fuel tank carefully from the
transmission jack and position it on an appropriate
B support to avoid any damages.
A
loosen the bolts (A) of the fuel strainer unit (B) on
top of the fuel tank.
Inspection
1. Check the fuel tank for any damage and replace it if necessary.
2. Check the tank ventilation hose for clog/debris.
Installation
2. Replace the gaskets for the fuel gauge and fuel strainer unit.
3. Refill the fuel into the tank and check for any leakages.
Fuel Filler Neck Hose
Removal
1. Raise and support the vehicl.
2. Using a 0.39” (10mm) socket and wrench (A),
remove the bolt from the hose (B) securing band.
B
CAUTION
Do not remove the filler neck when the fuel tank
is full. Failure to follow this instruction may lead
A
to unwanted fuel spillage.
3. Block the fuel tank inlet port with a suitable plug/
cap to avoid entry of foreign particles into the tank.
B 4. Using a suitable open end spanner (A), remove
the two 0.39” (10mm) bolts (B) from clamp holding
the filler hose and breather hose to the chassis.
5. Using a 0.39” (10mm) socket and wrench (A),

remove the hose securing band (B) and gently pull
out the fuel filler neck hose (C).
A
Inspection
1. Check the hoses for any damage or deterioration and replace if necessary.
Installation
2. Refill the fuel into the tank and check for any leakages.
Removal
1. Remove the timing chain and sprockets.
2. Remove the intake manifold assembly.
A 3. Disconnect the HPP Metering Valve electrical
connector (A).
4. Press the clips and remove the Fuel inlet pipe (A)

and outlet pipe (B) of HPP.
CAUTION
Always replace the HP line(s) whenever
removed.This is to be performed to avoid leak‐
ages from the HP lines.
5. Using a 0.51” (13 mm) socket and wrench, loosen
the High Pressure Pump (HPP) mounting bolt (A)
A and detach the HPP using the MST.
Installation
2. Check for leaks in the fuel system. Connect MDS and check for faults.
HPP specifications 1800 bars
HPP model CP1H
EMS ECU EDC 17CP20
Tool Description Torque in Nm
Pipe High Pressure nut on Common Rail 27 ± 2
Pipe High Pressure nut on Fuel Pump 20 ± 2
Pipe High Pressure nut on Injector 27 ± 2
Pipe High Pressure Pump to rail mounting on intake manifold 10‐12
Common Rail Mounting on Cylinder Head 25 ± 3
Injector Clamp Stud 22.5 ± 2.5
Injector Clamp Nut 25 ± 3
Assembly Fuel Injection Pump Nut 72 ± 3
Assembly Fuel Injection Pump Mounting on Crankcase 25 ± 3
List of Special Tools(MST)
Tool Name Illustration
Fuel injector removing tool

0305BAM0001ST
High Pressure Pump Removal Tool

0305BC007ST
Emission System
Table of Content
Description……………………………………………………………………….…….……………..........
In Car Repair………..………………………………………………………………...........................
Description
Exhaust After Treatment System ‐ Overview
A. Diesel Oxi‐Cat ‐ Diesel Particulate Filter C. Gasket

B. Flexible Coupling D. Muffler
Overview Description
The Exhaust After Treatment System comprises of the Engine Exhaust Manifold, Diesel Oxidation Catalyst‐Diesel
Particulate Filter, Flexible Coupling, Muffler and Exhaust Tailpipe.
As the exhaust gases pass through the, chemical reaction occur, and the Carbon Monoxide (CO), gaseous
Hydrocarbons (HC) and liquid HC particles (unburned and oil) are oxidized, thus reducing harmful emissions.
Then the exhaust passes through the Diesel Particulate Filter (DPF) where the accumulated Diesel Particulate
Matter (DPM) or Soot from the Diesel Engine Exhaust is removed by active regeneration process.
The filter systems integrated in the Exhaust After Treatment System consist of Aluminium Titanate substrate.
The substrate is formed by tiny channels arranged parallel to one another. As the ends of the channels are
alternately closed, the gases are forced to flow through the intermediate walls, which are provided with
extremely fine pores. While gaseous components can pass through, the particles are trapped. To prevent the
particulate filter from becoming clogged and to avoid excessive exhaust‐gas back pressure in the engine, the
particulate stored in the filter has to be burned off from time to time. This procedure is called regeneration.
The Engine Management System Electronic Control Unit (EMS ECU) receives input signals from the Nitrogen
Oxide Oxygen (O2) sensors which are mounted on the Exhaust After Treatment System.
Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR)
A
C
A. EGR Unit D. Cooling Water Outlet

B. Electrically Operated Motor with Position E. Pneumatic Actuator
Feedback Sensor F. EGR Outlet
C. Cooling Water Inlet G. EGR Inlet
EGR recirculates a part of the engine’s exhaust back into the engine at a lower temperature. The cooled gases
have a higher heat capacity and contain less oxygen than air, lowering combustion temperatures, thus
reducing the formation of NOx.
The EGR Cooler is coupled with the electrically operated EGR with position feedback sensor which is operated
by a DC motor and provided with a position sensor. The position of the EGR pneumatic actuator is controlled
by the EMS ECU to meet the air mass requirement. The difference between the desired and current positions
of the EGR pneumatic actuator is corrected by the duty cycle from the EMS ECU. The exhaust gases that flow
via the EGR pneumatic actuator is circulated through the EGR cooler attached to it. Water taken from the
cylinder head is used as a cooling medium.
The EGR cooler also has a by‐pass valve which is operated by a pneumatic actuator. If the EMS ECU decides
not to cool the EGR in an operating point, it sends the duty cycle accordingly to the pressure modulator. This
in turn controls the vacuum supply to the pneumatic actuator and activates the bypass valve. In this case, the
EGR gases bypass the EGR cooler and are directly sent to the EGR mixture.
Diesel Oxidation Catalyst‐Diesel Particulate Filter
A. (T4) Temperature Sensor C. Upstream DPF pressure pipe

B. O2 Sensor
DPF ‐ Cross sectional view
Diesel Oxidation Catalyst
The DPF unit consists of DOC, DPF sensor, O2 sensor,
two ports for Differential Pressure Sensor.
The Diesel Oxidation Catalyst (DOC) is a flow through device that consists of a canister containing a
honeycomb‐like structure or cordierite substrate. The substrate has a large surface area that is coated with an
active catalyst layer. This layer contains a small, well dispersed amount of precious metals such as platinum
and palladium. As the exhaust gases traverse the catalyst, CO, gaseous HC and liquid HC particles (unburned
fuel and oil) are oxidized and converted to CO2 and water thereby reducing harmful emissions.
The catalyst in the DOC requires minimum exhaust temperature of 356°F (180°C) to begin oxidation process.
The DOC should be operated within the normal exhaust temperatures of the diesel engine. Elevated exhaust
temperatures and sustained near peak torque can adversely affect the performance of the DOC in the
presence of high sulfur concentrations. At higher temperatures, catalysts can oxidize sulfur dioxide to form
sulfate particulates (sulfuric acid). Therefore, higher sulfur fuels can increase DPM emission.
Diesel Particulate Filter (DPF)
The Diesel Particulate Filter (DPF) is a device designed to remove diesel particulate matter or soot from the
exhaust gas of a diesel engine. It removes all particles of soot from the exhaust gases and subsequently burns
them.
The DPF consists of precise matter coated with Aluminium Titanate substrate. The substrate is formed by tiny
channels arranged parallel to one another. As the ends of the channels are alternately closed, the gases are
forced to flow through the intermediate walls, which are provided with extremely fine pores. While gaseous
components can pass through, the particles are trapped. To prevent the particulate filter from becoming
clogged and to avoid excessive exhaust‐gas back pressure in the engine, the particulate stored in the filter has
to be burned off from time to time. This procedure is called regeneration.
The Differential Pressure Sensors monitor the load status of the particulate filter based on driving style and
distance driven. When the soot loading in the filter reaches pre‐determined limit, the Differential Pressure
Sensors and O2 sensor process the signals to EMS ECU. Based on the signals, the EMS ECU modifies the fuel
injection, intake‐air throttle, exhaust‐gas recirculation and boost‐pressure control to raise the engine
temperature and initiate regeneration.
Troubleshooting
1. Visually inspect the components in the exhaust After treatment system for any mechanical damage or
leakage, and replace if necessary.
2. If the cause is not visually evident, verify the symptom and refer to the troubleshooting chart.
Mechanical
• Check for perforation in the muffler and in the SCR system.
• Check for any damage of the rubber insulator supporting the exhaust after treatment system.
• Check for the external damages.
Electrical
• Inspect the sensor wiring and connectors for looseness and burnouts.
Diagnosis Chart
Engine not starting/Delayed stating 1. The exhaust after treat- 1. Check & replace if required.
ment system is chocked
or blocked.
Engine power is restricted/ MIL blink- 1. EGR electrical motor fail- 1. Check physical damage, replace
ing ure. if required. Troubleshoot using
MDS.
2. EGR valve stickiness 2. Troubleshoot using MDS.
leading to high air mal-
function. 3. Troubleshoot using MDS.
3. Malfunction of any of the
electronic component in
the exhaust.
Engine growling noise 1. Exhaust manifold is 1. Replace the exhaust manifold.

cracked or broken.
2. DOC mounting gasket 2. Replace the gasket. Tighten the
leakage. mounting bolts to specified
torque.
3. EGR pipe Leakages. 3. Replace the EGR pipe gasket.
<002 Bold> For additional infor-
mation refer to Diagnosis and
Testing section.
1. Leaks at pipe joints. 1. Tighten the clamps/bolts to spe-

cific torque.
2. Rusted or blown out muf- 2. Replace the muffler. Inspect the
fler. exhaust after treatment system.
3. Broken or rusted exhaust 3. Replace the exhaust pipe.
pipe.
4. The exhaust pipe leaking 4. Tighten/replace the flange mount-
at the manifold flange. ing nuts/bolts.
Noisy exhaust and leaking exhaust
gases 5. Leakage between the
exhaust manifold and 5. Replace the gasket. Tighten the
cylinder head. bolts between the exhaust mani-
fold and cylinder head.
6. Exhaust after treatment
system choked. 6. O2 and malfunction. For addition-
al information refer to OBD.
<002 Bold> For additional infor-
mation refer to Diagnosis and
Testing section.
Engine power lose 1. Gas leakage between 1. Change the gasket or the hose.
EGR pipe joints.
2. EGR pipe leakage. 2. Change the EGR pipe.
3. Improper functioning of 3. Check the EGR by using the
the EGR pneumatic blink codes and proceed appro-
actuator. priately.
4. Vacuum hose crack, 4. Ensure proper connection of vac-
loose, fallen off. uum hose at the vacuum modu-
lator, reservoir, and alternator.
Check for cracks and replace the
vacuum hose if necessary
5. EGR malfunction. 5. Troubleshoot using MDS.
6. T3 sensor (temperature 6. Troubleshoot using MDS.
before turbine) malfunc- <002 Bold> For additional infor-
tion. mation refer to Diagnosis and
Testing section.
• Check for physical damage to • Replace the hose if required.

DPF Sensor Vacuum Hoses
the hoses.
• Refer to modules and sen- • Refer to modules and sen-

DPF Sensor
sors section. sors section.
• Check the DOC - DPF for • If external damages are

external damage. observed then replace the
DOC - DPF only.
• Check for signs of exhaust • Inspect the cause of leakage
gas leakages from the DOC - and rectify, if not replace the
DOC - DPF DPF. affected components only.
• Check if the internal sub- • Fine powder deposits will be
strate of the DOC - DPF for noticed if the DOC - DPF
failure. internal substrate has failed,
if the above is noticed
replace the DOC - DPF.
• Check for physical damage. • Replace the EGR module.

EGR Module • Check for valve being sticky. • Replace the EGR module.
• Check for motor not working. • Refer to MDS.
Exhaust Pipe • Check for physical damage. • Replace the exhaust pipe.
Care of the System
• Check for physical damage to • Replace the hose if required.

DPF Sensor Vacuum Hoses
the hoses.
• Refer to modules and sen- • Refer to modules and sen-

DPF Sensor
sors section. sors section.
• Check the DOC - DPF for • If external damages are

external damage. observed then replace the
DOC - DPF only.
• Check for signs of exhaust • Inspect the cause of leakage
gas leakages from the DOC - and rectify, if not replace the
DOC - DPF DPF. affected components only.
• Check if the internal sub- • Fine powder deposits will be
strate of the DOC - DPF for noticed if the DOC - DPF
failure. internal substrate has failed,
if the above is noticed
replace the DOC - DPF.
• Check for physical damage. • Replace the EGR module.

EGR Module • Check for valve being sticky. • Replace the EGR module.
• Check for motor not working. • Refer to MDS.
Exhaust Pipe • Check for physical damage. • Replace the exhaust pipe.
In Car Repair
Exhaust Removal
CAUTION
The operating temperature of the exhaust after treatment system is very high, never attempt to service
any part of the exhaust after treatment system until it is cooled.
WARNING
Dropping of heavy/large parts will cause property damage and personal injury.

the battery.
B 3. Using a 0.47” (12mm) socket and wrench set,
remove the mounting bolts (A) and detach the
exhaust pipe (B) from the DOC‐DPF unit (C).
4. Detach the exhaust pipe (A) from the rubber

insulator (B).
5. Release the SCR unit (A) from the rubber insulator
(B).
6. Disconnect the electrical connectors (A) from the

SCR Module (B).
B
7. Using the 0.47” (12mm) socket and wrench set,

remove the U‐clamp support mounting nuts (A)
holding the exhaust Pipe (B).
A
CAUTION
To avoid damage to the exhaust pipe joint shake
the pipe before removing it.
CAUTION
To avoid damage to the muffler joint shake the
muffler before removing it.
A B
8. Using the 0.47” (12mm) socket and wrench set,

remove the U‐clamp mounting nuts (A) near the
muffler (B).
9. Release the front end of the muffler (B) from the
rubber insulator (A).
A
B
10. Release the rear end of the muffler (A) from the

rubber insulator (B).
11. Detach the Exhaust Tail Pipe (A) from the rubber
Insulator (B) and detach the complete exhaust pipe
assembly from the vehicle.
Inspection
1. Check the exhaust pipe, muffler and mountings for improper attachment, leaks, cracks, damage or
deterioration. If found any defect, replace the exhaust pipe.
Installation
2. Tighten all nuts and bolts to specified torque.
EGR Module
Removal
the battery.
2. Pull and remove the vacuum hose from the EGR
Pneumatic Valve (A).
CAUTION
Ensure caution while removing the vacuum hose.
A
3. Disconnect the electrical connectors (A) & (B)

from the EGR Module.
4. Using a 0.24” (6mm) Allen key, remove the Allen

key bolts (A) securing one end the EGR Gas Outlet
Pipe (B).
B
key bolts (A) securing the EGR Gas Inlet Pipe (B).
6. Using a grip plier, compress the hose clip (A) and
remove the cooling water outlet hose (B) from the
EGR Module.
B NOTICE
A
Collect the coolant which will overflow during
the process.

A key bolts (A) securing other end of the EGR gas
outlet pipe (B) and take it out.
B
A
8. Using a grip plier, compress the hose clip (A) and
remove the cooling water inlet hose (B) from the
EGR Cooler.
B NOTICE
Take care, coolant will overflow due to
disconnection of the hose, collect the same in a
suitable container to avoid spillage onto the
floor surface.
A
9. Using a 0.47” (12mm) socket and wrench set,

remove the mounting bolts (A) of the EGR cooler
A top mounting (B).

remove the other side mounting bolts (A) of the
EGR Module.
remove the oil dipstick mounting bracket from the
EGR cooler.
remove the bottom mounting bolt (A) on the EGR
Cooler (B).
13. Carefully remove the EGR module from the

vehicle.
Inspection
1. Check the EGR module for soot accumulation, cracks, damage or deterioration. If any defect is found,
replace the EGR module.
NOTICE
Do not tamper/play with the EGR pneumatic valve, if required test the valve using a vacuum gauge for leak
only.
Installation
3. Check the coolant level post replacement/installation of the EGR module assembly and also check for
leaks in the system.
4. Check the EGR operation/faults via MDS post installation/replacement.
SCR Module
Removal
the battery.
C B
3. Press and remove the electrical connectors (A)
from the SCR Module (B) and using a suitable screw
driver, remove the securing bolts (C) and separate
the SCR Module from the Chassis Frame Mounting.
A
CAUTION
C
Ensure that the SRS Module connector is
removed carefully to avoid breakage.
Installation
Diesel Oxidation Catalyst (DOC)
Removal
the battery.
3. Disconnect the DOC electrical connectors to all
the sensor.
remove the joint flange from the Diesel Oxidation
Catalyst (DOC) pipe bottom side.
5. Using a 17mm spanner, loosen the DPF pressure

port (A) P1 on the DOC.
6. Using a 17mm spanner, loosen the DPF pressure

port (A) P2 at the bottom of the DOC.
7. Remove the bracket (B) of the DOC (A) from the
engine mounting side.
A
8. Using 0.51”(13mm) socket and wrench, remove

the turbocharger side DOC mounting bracket bolt
(A) from the cylinder b lock.
9. Using 0.51”(13mm) socket and wrench, remove

the bottom side DOC mounting bracket bolt (A)
from the Cylinder Block.
NOTICE
A
Disconnect all the sensor connectors mounted
on the DOC top before unbolting the DOC
mounting bolts.
10. Using 0.51”(13mm) socket and wrench set,
remove the DOC mounting bolts (A) from the turbo
charger (B) and detach the DOC.
Installation
Description Torque in Nm Torque in lb-ft
DOC/DPF mounting bracket fitment on engine block 25 ± 5 18 ± 3
DOC/DPF mounting on the engine bracket 25 ± 5 18 ± 3
DOC/DPF bottom mounting stud 20 ± 3 15 ± 2
Flexible coupling fitment 20 ± 3 15 ± 2
Exhaust assembly fitment 35 ± 5 26 ± 3
Clutch
Table of Content
Description……………………………………………………………………….…….……………..........
In Car Repair………..………………………………………………………………...........................
Description
The clutch disc is a single, dry type with cushion springs in the hub. The clutch disc’s friction material is
riveted to the hub.
The clutch cover is a diaphragm type with one-piece construction.
In the engaged position (when the clutch pedal is not pressed), the diaphragm spring of the clutch
cover assembly holds the clutch pressure plate against the clutch disc. This enables the engine torque
to be transmitted to the input shaft of the gearbox, without any slip / loss.
The clutch is hydraulically actuated with self-adjusting features. The complete actuation system
comprises of a clutch master cylinder with integral reservoir. The master cylinder is connected to the
clutch actuation or the slave cylinder by hydraulic pipe. The travel of the push rod results in linear
movement of the release bearing through a release fork pivoted on a ball in the clutch housing.
The clutch release bearing pushes the diaphragm spring center towards the flywheel. The diaphragm
spring pivots at the fulcrum, relieving the load on the clutch plate. Steel spring straps riveted to the
pressure plate cover pulls the pressure plate away from the clutch disc. When the clamping load on
the clutch plate is relieved it slides on the splines of the input shaft away from the flywheel thus
disengaging the engine torque from the input shaft & enabling the gears to be changed.
Care of the System

While topping up use the recommended fluid conforming to DOT 3 specifications only. Avoid mixing
different brands.
The clutch fluid is hygroscopic fluids hence tend to collect humidity. The humidity along with the brake
fluid can cause acidic reaction & seizure of the master & slave cylinders. The clutch fluid should be
replaced every 40,000 km or one in a year, whichever is earlier. The master & clutch cylinder seals to
be replace every 50,000 Kms
The following maintenance activities needs to be done on Clutch System during Service intervals –
• CLUTCH FLUID LEVEL & LEAK - INSPECT
• CLUTCH FLUID LEVEL & LEAK – REPLACE
CLUTCH FLUID LEVEL & LEAK - INSPECT

Clutch Fluid – SAE J1703 FMVSS No.116 DOT 4 or IS 8654 Type-2
Clutch Master
Cylinder with
Reservoir
Bleed
Screw
Concentric Slave
Cylinder Assy.
CLUTCH SYSTEM - SCHEMATIC
CLUTCH FLUID – LEVEL & LEAK - INSPECT

Refer above illustration –
1. Check for Clutch Fluid Level up ‘MAX’ mark on the clutch fluid reservoir [1].
2. Check for Clutch Fluid leakage and correct fitment at all joints –
• Hose connected from reservoir and Clutch master cylinder.
• Clutch Master Cylinder inlet and outlet.
• Clutch Bundy tube to flexible hose joint.
• Clutch slave Cylinder inlet banjo.
• Clutch slave cylinder bleed screw.
 Park the vehicle on level ground/2 post lift /4 post lift.

 Always use recommended fluids only.
 Do not mix different brand fluids.
 Clutch fluid level and leak to be inspected at 5000 kms, 15000 kms & then at every
10000 kms.
 If the activity is done on a 2 post lift, ensure that the LSPV spring is disconnected
before lifting the vehicle. After lowering, re-connect the LSPV spring and ensure that
the setting height is correct.
CLUTCH FLUID LEVEL & LEAK – REPLACE

Clutch Fluid – SAE J1703 FMVSS No.116 DOT 4 or IS 8654 Type-2
CLUTCH SYSTEM - SCHEMATIC
1
1
Bleed
Screw
Concentric
Slave Cylinder
CLUTCH FLUID – REPLACE.

Refer above illustration –
1. Remove the dust cap of the bleeder screw.
2. If the bleeding operation is done without connecting a tube and in the open air then the
chance of air remaining trapped is high.
3. Connect bleeding tube, to bleeding screw on slave cylinder.
4. Ensure that the other end of the tube is fully immersed in the bottle having clean clutch
fluid.
5. Fill the Reservoir clutch master cylinder up to the top level with recommended clutch fluid.
6. Operate clutch pedal 3 or 4 times slowly to the full stroke.
7. Holding the clutch in depressed condition loosen the bleeding screw on slave cylinder by ½
to ¾ turn and allow all the air escape in to the container bottle.
8. Repeat the exercise till no air bubbles appears in the bottle.
9. During this operation ensure fluid level in reservoir.
10. Tighten the bleed screw properly.
11. Remove bleeding tube and place the dust cap on bleed screw.
12. Check the fluid level in container and top up to the ‘MAX’ level. [1]
 Use recommended fluids & don’t mix different brand fluids.

 Clutch fluid to be replaced at 35000 kms, 75000 kms & then at 115000 kms.
before lifting the vehicle & re-connect the LSPV spring & ensure that the setting
height is correct after job complete.
Trouble Shooting
Unless the cause of a clutch problem is extremely obvious, accurate problem diagnosis will require a
road test to confirm that the problem exists. To find out the actual root cause of the problem the
clutch will have to be dismantled and the failed parts examined to determine the cause.
During road test, drive the vehicle in normal operating speeds. Shift the gears and observe the clutch
action. If chatter, grab, slip or improper release is experienced, remove & inspect the parts. However if
problem is noise or hard shift then the problem may not be in clutch only but also the transmission or
the driveline.
If the clutch slip is suspected then drive the vehicle in 1st or 2nd gear at the top speed (corresponding
to the gear). Keeping the accelerator fully pressed; slowly apply the brake- with your left feet. If the
engine stalls then the clutch is not slipping.
Clutch Problem Causes –
Fluid contamination is the most frequent cause of clutch malfunction. Oil, water on the clutch contact
surface will cause faulty operation viz. Slip, grab, and judder.
During inspection check if any parts in the clutch are coated with oil or water splash from road.
Oil contamination indicates a leak at either rear main seal or transmission-input shaft. The oil leaks
from either of these areas will normally coat the housing interior or clutch cover or flywheel. Heat
buildup due to slippage between the clutch plate and the flywheel or the pressure plate can result into
the leaked oil literally getting baked. Visually this will result in a glazed residue varying from amber to
black.
Roads splash contamination will mean that the dirt water is entering the clutch housing either due to
lose bolt or torn rubber boot.
Clutch misalignment –
The clutch component i.e. the clutch plate, flywheel and the pressure plate have to be aligned with
the crankshaft and the transmission input shaft. Misalignment caused by runouts/ warpage will cause
clutch to grab judder as well as improper release (also manifesting as hard gearshift).
Flywheel runout –
The flywheel runout needs to be checked whenever misalignment is suspected. Flywheel runout
should not exceed 0.10 mm.
To measure the runout mount the base of the magnetic dial gauge on the block. Locate the dial
gauge’s needle on the outer surface of the flywheel.
Some of the common reasons for excessive runout are –
 Heat warpage.
 Improper machining.
 Incorrect bolt tightening
 Foreign material on crankshaft flange or flywheel.
 Improper seating on crankshaft.
Clutch cover & Disc runout –
A warped cover or diaphragm spring will result in clutch grab and / or incomplete release of clutch
plate.
If the clutch alignment tool is not used then the misalignment of the clutch plate can cause distortion
of the cover and also disc damage.
The cover can also get misaligned due to improper tightening of the cover onto the flywheel. The only
way to avoid is that the bolts must be tightened alternatively (diagonal pattern) and evenly i.e. 2 to 3
thread a time only.
A noisy gearshift operation especially the 1st and 2nd gear can be due to clutch not getting disengaged
completely. To check it, jack up the rear axle. Lift the axle till both the wheels are rotating freely.
Press the clutch pedal completely and start the engine, the wheels should not be spinning. Now slowly
release the pedal till it has moved about 10 mm, the wheel should still not be spinning. If some
spinning is noticed then it indicates improper lift of the pressure plate. First check the bleeding and
the pedal travel then check for the pressure plate lift.
Clutch Housing Misalignment –
The clutch housing has to be aligned with the engine so that the input shaft is aligned with the
crankshaft. Absence of this alignment results in clutch noise, incomplete release of the clutch plate. It
can normally be judged by uneven wear of the finger and pilot bearing. In severe case it can also
damage the spline of the input shaft and clutch hub’s well as the clutch splines
 Normally the clutch housing misalignment is a result of:

 Incorrect seating on the engine/transmission.
 Missing alignment dowel holes.
 Loose or missing mounting bolt.
 Mounting surfaces that are damaged/ not parallel.
To check the clutch housing misalignment bell housing runout will also need to be checked.
Clutch slippage
Observation Causes Remedial action

Disc facing worn out. 1. Normal wear.  Replace clutch disc
2. Clutch riding.  Replace clutch plate
3. Insufficient diaphragm spring  Replace clutch plate & cover
clamp load. assembly.
4. Faulty release mechanism.

5. Vehicle being driven despite  Replace , and bleed/
slipping clutch.
6. Bad driving practice of  Customer to be informed.
allowing the clutch to slip far
too long.
 Customer to be informed.
Clutch disc facing Leak at :

contaminated with oil, 1. Crankshaft rear end oil seal  Replace seal & disc. Clean cover
grease or clutch fluid. assembly.
2. Leak through the input shaft
 Replace seal & disc. Clean cover
3. Excess amount of grease assembly.
applied to the input shaft
splines  Apply less grease. Replace clutch
disc. Clean cover assembly.
Clutch is running Release bearing carrier sticky.  Replace bearing / carrier.

partially disengaged.
Flywheel height 1. Improperly machined

incorrect. flywheel.  Replace flywheel.
2. Excess machining done.
Wrong disc or pressure Use the correct parts  Replace the parts after
plate used. comparison.
Clutch disc/ cover or 1. Improper tightening or  Replace the parts and tighten as
diaphragm spring loosening procedure. per sequence.
warped.
2. Rough handling of clutch
plate or cover assembly
 Replace the parts, ensure that
the rough handling is avoided
Flywheel side clutch Flywheel surface ,scored and  Reduce the scoring and nicks by
facing surface – torn/ having light notch sand paper. Reduce if scoring
nicked/ worn deeper.
Clutch disc facing burnt. 1. Frequent operation under  Roughen the flywheel face with
Excessive glazing of the high loads or hard sandpaper. Replace clutch plate
flywheel & pressure acceleration conditions & cover assembly.
plate.
2. Frequent clutch riding by the
driver.  The driver has to be alerted to
avoid repeat failure.
Clutch facing broken Improper storage- clutch plate  Replace.
dropped prior to fitting.
Fouling marks on the Improper fitment- assembled the  Rectify
torsion damper. wrong way around
Clutch grab/chatter

Clutch disc facing Leak at :
contaminated with oil, 1. Crankshaft rear end oil seal  Replace seal & disc. Clean cover
grease or clutch fluid. 2. Leak through the input shaft assembly.
3. Excess amount of grease  Replace seal & disc. Clean cover
applied to the input shaft assembly.
splines  Apply less grease. Replace clutch
disc. Clean cover assembly.
Clutch disc / pressure 1. Incorrect or substandard  Replace disc and cover with the
plate warped. parts. correct parts.
2. Improper tightening or  Replace the parts and tighten as
Disc facing show unusual loosening procedure. per sequence.
wear
3. Rough handling of clutch  Replace the parts, ensure that
plate or cover assembly the rough handling is avoided.
Partial engagements of 1. Clutch pressure plate  Replace clutch cover & clutch
clutch disc (One side position setting incorrect or plate.
worn – opposite side modified
glazed and lightly worn.) 2. Clutch cover, spring or  Replace clutch cover & clutch
release fingers bent or plate.
distorted due to rough
handling or improper
assembly.
3. Clutch disc damaged or  Replace clutch plate.
distorted.
4. Clutch misalignment.  Check alignment and runout of

flywheel disc or cover.
 Replace the clutch plate & cover

assembly (if required. Correct
the alignment)
No fault found with Problem related to suspension or  Further diagnosis required.

clutch components. driveline components. Check engine & transmission
mounting insulators. U Joint,
tyres, body attaching parts.
Clutch master cylinder Piston/ bore damaged or  Overhaul the master & slave
or slave cylinder piston corroded cylinder.
jammed/ scuffing.
Tangential strap 1. Incorrect driving practice  Advise the customer of the
connecting the pressure  Mostly due to tow starting in consequences.
plate to the diaphragm 1st or 2nd gear
cover broken.
Or
 Incorrect gear selection
Improper clutch release

Clutch disc warped. New disc not checked before  Check the new disc’s runout
installation & replace it.
Clutch plate is binding 1. Clutch disc hub splines  Replace the clutch plate.
on the input shaft’s damaged during installation.
splines.
2. Input shaft splines rough or  Replace input shaft is
damaged. severely damaged.
3. Corrosion or rust formation on  Replace the clutch plate.
splines of disc and input shaft. Replace the input shaft if the
scaling can not be removed.
Clutch disc-facing sticks Vacuum may form in pockets over  Drill 1/16 inch diameter hole
to flywheel. rivet head. Occurs as clutch cools through rivets and scuff sand
down after use. the clutch disc facing .
Clutch will not 1. Low fluid in the clutch master  Top off the fluid and check
disengage properly. cylinder. for leaks.
2. Air in the hydraulic system  Bleed & refill the system.
3. Clutch cover loose.  Tighten the bolts.
4. Wrong clutch disc.  Replace disc.
5. Clutch cover diaphragm spring  Replace the cover assembly.

bent / warped during
transmission installation.  Fit the clutch plate correctly
the hub should be facing the
6. Clutch disc fitted backwards. pressure plate side & the
flywheel side mark towards
the flywheel
Bush worn out / Vibration / misalignment  Fit new bearings & check for
damaged Clutch misalignment misalignments.
Hard gear shift

Brake fluid less and or 1. Leaks  Replace fluid.
contaminated 2. Reservoir strainer missing Stop leaks and avoid
contamination.
Excessive clutch pedal Wrong adjustment or lock nut Adjust
free plays. loosening
Clutch plate warpage 1. Warpage due to handling or Replace
assembly.
2. Warpage due to
misalignment.
In Car Repairs
Adjustment of clutch pedal height –
Loosen the lock nut of master cylinder’s push rod

fork.
Slide backs the dust cover.
Rotate the master cylinder push rod till desired

height of pedal is achieved.
Tighten the lock nut of push rod fork.
Screw in pedal stopper bolt completely.
Press pedal fully till the pedal bottoms on the

floor.
Now screw out the pedal stopper bolt till it
touches the pedal lever, release pedal.
Screw out the bolt further by one turn. Tighten the
locknut.
Recheck pedal height.
Clutch Actuation Mechanism –
The clutch actuation is hydraulic actuation. The clutch pedal actuates a master cylinder. The hydraulic
fluid is transmitted to the slave cylinder through a flexible pipe.
The clutch actuation mechanism does not have a fork and the pivot ball. The hydraulic concentric
bearing is a unique design and incorporates the slave cylinder and the release bearing. The bearing is
permanently attached to the slave cylinder piston. The hydraulic lines are permanently attached to
the bearing assembly. The hydraulic line near the slave cylinder is fitted with a quick disconnect
coupling.
• Clutch Master cylinder overhaul
• Slave cylinder and Concentric bearing Overhaul
Clutch Master Cylinder Overhaul –
Remove the outlet pipe connection.
Remove the clevis pin lock & the clevis pin.
Remove the clutch push rod fork & the clutch pedal.
Remove the master cylinder from

the firewall.
Clutch Master Cylinder – Exploded View Schematic

Dust Cap
Filter
Reservoir
Piston Assy.
Clutch Master
Cylinder
Rubber Boot
Clevis
1. Pull back the dust cover.

2. Remove circlip.
3. Remove the push rod assembly with retainer washer.
4. Remove the piston assembly by gently tapping the Clutch Master cylinder body on a wooden
block.
Using a screwdriver, lift the leaf spring retainer.

Remove spring assembly from plunger.
Take care, while lifting the spring otherwise the spring and the stem will fall off.
Compress spring to free valve stem from
eccentrically positioned hole in the end face of
spring retainer. This will separate spring retainer
from valve stem.
Remove spring, valve spacer and spring washer

from the valve stem.
(While assembling hold the spacer between fingers
such that the valve stems hangs down vertically.
Pull down the stem downwards as far as possible.
Observe if the valve stem has moved freely
upwards. If movement is not free replace valve
spacer.)
Remove the valve seal from the valve stem.
The bore and the plunger should be checked for scoring, scuffing uneven wear marks, corrosion and
excessive clearance between plunger & body
Check the condition of dust cover for cut, deterioration if damaged replace.
The assembly procedure is the reverse of the dismantling procedure.
While fitting the plunger lubricate it with brake fluid.
Slave cylinder overhaul –
The concentric bearing and the slave cylinder are serviced as an

assembly only. It cannot be overhauled. The release-bearing portion of
the assembly is permanently attached to the piston.
The only time the concentric bearing should be replaced is when it is
either leaking or obviously damaged. The bearing should not be
changed just because the clutch disc or the pressure plate assembly is
being replaced. Replace the bearing assembly only when it has failed.
Replacing the Clutch Slave Cylinder –

To replace the Concentric Clutch Slave Cylinder; the transmission
needs to be removed.
For the removal of transmission please refer to ‘Clutch Overhaul’
section in this manual.
Dismantling -
1. Loosen & remove the 3 Nos. mounting bolts of the Concentric Slave cylinder.
Note – The mounting bolts are ‘Torx’ type. Care should be taken to use the proper tools to avoid
any damage to the mounting bolts head.
2. Separate the Bleeder – CSC & Concentric Slave Cylinder by removing the Quick Release
Coupling.
Assembly –
1. While fitting the new Concentric Slave Cylinder also separate the Bleeder – CSC & the Slave
Cylinder.
2. Fit the Slave Cylinder in the Transmission & tighten the mounting bolts. Now connect the
Bleeder – CSC to Slave Cylinder.
3. Fit the transmission back on the vehicle.
4. Connect the hydraulic pipe from CMC to CSC.
5. Bleed the System.
Note – While assembling, hand tighten the mounting bolts opposite to each other & torque tighten to
the specified torque.
Failing to which can lead to adverse effect on release bearing life.
Clutch Overhaul –
Block the front wheels, so that the vehicle does not move forward.
Disconnect the negative cable of the battery.
Remove the electrical connections to the starter
motor.
Remove the starter motor by removing the

mounting bolts.
Remove the Rear (Differential) End Propeller Shaft bolts – 4 Nos.

Carefully pull the Propeller Shaft out from the transmission.
Note – After the propeller shaft yoke is pulled, a bit of oil is expected to come out as the yoke itself
is the guide for the oil seal.
Disconnect the speed sensor connection.
Remove the electrical connection for the
reverse lamp switch.
Support the engine suitably at rear end.

Remove the gearshift lever grommet.
Remove the gear shift lever upper half.
Support the gearbox using a suitable stand.
Remove the gearbox mounting insulators.

Remove the clutch housing fastening screws to
the engine.
Remove the hydraulic pipe connecting the

Clutch Master Cylinder to Clutch Slave Cylinder.
Collect the Hydraulic Fluid. Do not allow the

fluid to fall on painted surface.
Move the gearbox away from the engine.
If the cover assembly may be reused then loosen the cover bolts evenly and in tightening sequence
to relive the spring tension equally.
The bolts should be loosened few threads at a time – so that the warping is avoided.
If the cover assembly is not going to be reused then this precaution is not essential.
If the pilot bearing has to be removed then the flywheel has to be removed and then the bearing
removed using the MST no 543.
(To install the bearing MST no 544 has to be used.)
During assembly use the MST 546 to align the clutch plate while the cover is being tightened.
The assembly sequence is the reverse of the dismantling (except the precautions mentioned.)
Inspection:
All the components should be inspected for wear. Any components, which are beyond the wear limits,
have to be replaced.
Over & above the wear limits: The following points also need to be ensured.
Flywheel runout --
The flywheel runout needs to be checked whenever misalignment is suspected. Flywheel runout
should not exceed 0.10 mm
To measure the runout; mount the base of the magnetic dial gauge on the block. Locate the dial
gauge’s needle on the outer surface of the flywheel.
Some of the common reasons for excessive runout are:

 Heat warpage.
 Improper machining.
 Incorrect bolt tightening
 Foreign material on crankshaft flange or flywheel.
 Improper seating on crankshaft.
If the flywheel has been removed for resurfacing or replacing the pilot bearing then while fitting it
back ensure that:
 No dirt and grease present on the mounting face (it can cause cocking & run out)
 The flywheel bolts have been replaced.
 Torque tightened as per sequence and also the angular tightening as per the specification is done.
Absence of any of these requirements may result in bolt loosening causing flywheel runout.
Clutch cover & Disc runout --
Check the clutch disc runout before fitting. It should be within the specifications. If it is more than the
specification- use a different clutch plate.
A warped cover or diaphragm spring will result in clutch grab and / or incomplete release of clutch
plate.
If the clutch alignment tool is not used then the misalignment of the clutch plate can cause distortion
of the cover and also disc damage.
The cover can also get misaligned due to improper tightening of the cover onto the flywheel. The only
way to avoid is that the bolts must be tightened alternatively (diagonal pattern) and evenly i.e. 2 to 3
thread a time only.
Clutch Housing Misalignment –
The clutch housing has to be aligned with the engine so that the input shaft is aligned with the
crankshaft. Absence of this alignment results in clutch noise, incomplete release of the clutch plate. It
can normally be judged by uneven wear of the finger and pilot bearing. In severe case it can also
damage the spline of the input shaft and clutch hub’s well as the clutch splines
 Normally the clutch housing misalignment is a result of:

 Incorrect seating on the engine/transmission.
 Missing alignment dowel holes.
 Loose or missing mounting bolt.
 Mounting surfaces that are damaged/ not parallel.
Before fitting the clutch housing ensure that no dirt, debris or foreign parts are trapped between the
mating surface of the transmission & the clutch housing.
Flywheel --
If the flywheel is found to be having minor scoring then it can be resurfaced. However the maximum
allowed cut is 0.076 mm. If scoring is deeper than 0.0076mm then the flywheel needs to be replaced.
(Excessive material removal will cause the flywheel to either crack/ warpage after installation/ drop in
clamping load and will affect the proper clutch release as the travel of release bearing gets affected.)
If the flywheel has been removed for resurfacing or replacing the pilot bearing then while fitting it
back ensure that:
 No dirt and grease present on the mounting face (it can cause cocking & run out)
 The flywheel bolts have been replaced.
 Torque tightened as per sequence and also the angular tightening as per the specification is done.
Absence of any of these requirements may result in bolt loosening causing flywheel runouts.
Starter ring replacement: Unless the provision of properly heating & fitting is available. It is not
recommended to replace the starter ring. It is worthwhile to replace the ring along with the flywheel.
Caution: If the starter ring is only going to be replaced then:-
• Do not use a gas flame to cut. It can cause local overheating of flywheel.
• The ring gear has to be heated in an oven to get uniform expansion. (Nearly 191°C)
• Do not uses flame to heat the ring – it can cause annealing of the ring teeth and premature
failure.
Technical Specifications
Clutch control type- Hydraulic- self adjusting
Pressure plate Diaphragm
Clutch Disc -
Outer Dia (mm) 240±1
Inner Dia ( mm) 160± 1
Disc Thickness ( mm) 8.8 mm ( free)
Clutch disc run out 0.8 mm Max
Minimum thickness from 0.4 mm

outer face to rivet head.
Clutch pedal Suspended Type
Clutch pedal Ratio 7.4
Clutch Pedal Height above 172 mm

carpet thickness of 10 mm. 165 mm.
Normal
Under full depression.
Clutch pedal free play ( 5 to 6 mm

including push rod play at
pedal top)
Master Cylinder 19.05 mm

Bore diameter
Slave Cylinder 15 mm
Inner diameter
0.13 mm
Clearance between
The piston & the bore
( Both cylinders)
Flywheel Standard Service Limit

≤ 0.05 0.1
Flatness ≤ 0.05 0.1
Runout
Flywheel 35±0.13
Width from Mounting face to
clutch face
Clutch release point from 25 mm from Bottom position
pedal full stroke end position
Pressure plate finger height 47.6 ± 1.0 mm
( mm)
Diaphragm spring tip non 0.8 mm ( finger to finger)
alignment.( Max)
Diaphragm spring finger wear Max depth 0.5 mm
Max width 5 mm
Location Torque Nm ( Lbft)
Pressure plate bolts 32.5 ± 2.5 Nm (24 ± 2 Lb-ft)

Clutch pedal position Switch lock nut 25 Nm (18 Lb-ft)
Clutch master cylinder nut 25 Nm (18 Lb-ft)
Clutch slave cylinder bolts 45 Nm (33 Lb-ft)
Flywheel Bolts 90 Nm + 60° ( 66 Lbft + 60°)
Clutch pedal pivot bolt and nut 27.5 ± 2.5 Nm ( 20 ± 2 Lb-ft)
Description / Part No. / Sketch Usage View

Master clutch plate assembly-
diesel ( aligner)
MST 546
Transmission (NGT530R)
Table of Content
Description…………………………….................................................………….……………
Trouble Shooting……………………................................................…………..……………
Care of the System……………………...............................................……...........………
In Car Repair………………………...................................................…………..……………
Dismantling and Overhauling……………………………………………….………….………..……
Sealant Specification………….………………………………………...……………………………….
Tightening Sequence………….……………………....………………………………………………….
CLUTCH HOUSING
SHIFT LEVER
MAIN DRIVE SHAFT
SYNCHRO
RELEASE
PACK REAR HSG.
BEARING ST ND
1 &2 ASSY.
SLEEVE
INTERMEDIATE SPLINED
FRONT PLATE OUTPUT
SHAFT
HSG. ASSY.
SYNCHRO TH
COUNTER SHAFT RD
PACK 3 & 4
TH 5 REVERSE
SUB-SHAFT
Transmission (4WD) Cross-sectional View
• SpecificationSynchronizer
– Pack Assembly Cross Section View
Trouble Shooting
A low transmission lubricant level is generally the result of a leak, inadequate lubricant fill, or an
incorrect lubricant level check.
Leaks can occur at the mating surface of the gear case, intermediate plate and adapter or extension
housing or from the front/rear seals. A suspected leak could also be result of an overfill condition.
Leaks at the rear of the extension or adapter housing will be from the housing oil seal. Leaks at
component mating surface will probably be the result of inadequate sealer, gaps in sealer, incorrect
bolt tightening, or the use of a non-recommended sealer.
A leak at the front of the transmission will be from either the front bearing retainer or retainer seal.
Lubricant may be seen dripping from the clutch housing after extended operation. If the leak is
severe, it may also contaminate the clutch disc causing slip, grab and chatter.
A correct lubricant level check can be made only when the vehicle is level, use a two post or a four
post hoist to ensure this. Also allow the lubricant to settle for a minute or so before checking. These
recommendations will ensure that an accurate check and avoid an under fill or overfill conditions.
Hard Shifting
Hard shifting is usually caused by low lubricant level, improper or contaminated lubricants,
component damage, and incorrect clutch adjustment or by a damaged clutch pressure plate or disc;
or worn out brass synchro ring.
Substantial lubricant leak can result in gear, shift rail, synchro and bearing damage. If a leak goes
undetected for an extended period the first indications of a problem are usually hard shifting and
noise.
Improper clutch release is one of the most frequent causes of hard shifting. Incorrect adjustment of
a worn damaged pressure plate or disc can cause incorrect release. If the clutch problem is advanced
then gear clash during shifts can be resulted. Incomplete travel of the clutch pedal due to
restrictions at the end of stroke (upturned carpet, extra carpet or cover or bend clutch linkage can
also cause improper clutch release and hard shift.)
Worn or damaged synchro rings can cause gear clash when shifting any forward gear. In some new
or rebuilt transmissions, new synchro rings may tend to stick slightly causing hard or noisy shifts. In
most conditions this will decline as the rings wear in.
Transmission noise
Most manual transmissions make some noise during normal operation. Rotating gears can generate
slight whine that may only be audible at extreme speeds.
Severe obviously audible transmission noise is generally the result of a lubricant problem.
Insufficient, improper or contaminated lubricant can promote rapid wear of gears, synchros, shift
rail, forks and bearing’s. The overheating caused by a lubricant problem can also lead to gear
breakage.
Trouble Shooting Chart

PROBLEM POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
Gear Whine • Low oil level  Top up oil.
• Worn teeth gears  Replace gears
• Worn bearings  Replace bearings.
Knocking or ticking • Chipped gear teeth  Replace gears.

• Foreign matter inside  Remove the foreign matter
transmission. and locate how the foreign
matter came inside e.g.
missing breather and rectify
that also to avoid
recurrence.
• Defective bearings.  Replace the bearings.
Jumping out of gear • Defective detent springs.  Replace the detent springs.
• Worn out grooves in shift rail.  Replace the shift rails.
• Shaft misalignment.  Check & Correct it.
• Worn dog teeth in gear  Replace the gears
• Worn out fork/ fork pads  Replace the fork/ pads
• Worn out synchronizer body.  Replace the body
• Gear lever fouling.  Check & correct.
• Bottom lever slot worn out.  Replace bottom lever.
Unable to select gear • Clutch defective  Rectify the clutch/ clutch

withdrawal mechanism
• Worn out selector mechanism.  Rectify the gear selector
mechanism.
• Worn out brass synchro ring.  Replace synchro ring.
• Gear clutch teeth damaged.  Replace gear.
Hard gear shifting • Clutch defective  Rectify the clutch/ clutch

withdrawal mechanism
• Improper or contaminated  Replace the lubricant with
lubricants the specified lubricant.
• Worn out brass synchro ring.  Replace synchro ring.
• Gear clutch teeth damaged.  Replace gear.
• Transmission assembly steps given below consist of Problems, Causes and Precautions while
assembling of sub components and main assembly.
• For more details on various problems and probable causes refer the assembly procedure
section prescribed in this manual.
Procedure to diagnose concern of reverse gear lock

Step 1:
Confirm concern of gear lock in reverse gear or gear lever is not coming to neutral position.
After confirmation of the concern remove Transmission from the vehicle. Refer SOP.
Step 2:
Loosen the companion flange nut.

Remove nut, washer and companion flange from
transmission assembly carefully.
Take care that rear end oil seal is not getting

damaged.
Step 3:
Remove shift lever grommet, bottom shift lever

and plunger & retainer plate assembly.
Avoid using a steel hammer, as retainer plate is

made of cast iron and may break.
Step 4:
Remove Speedo sleeve and Speedo driven gear.

(As shown in figure)
Step 5:
Remove rear housing carefully.
Take care that rear end oil seal and bearing are
not getting damaged.
Step 6:
Remove 5th driven gear and bearing carefully

with the help of puller (MST-523).
Step 7:
Remove 5th drive gear and bearing carefully with

the help of puller (MST-524).
Step 8:
Remove Sub-shaft and hub assembly.
Step 9:
Take new Sub Shaft & Hub Assembly,
Part No - 0703DAD06050N for NGT 530R

Transmission.
Step 10:
If Synchroniser Ring or Key Found Damaged,

Replace the damaged parts.
Step 11:
Assemble 5th/Reverse shift rail and shift fork

assembly with reverse sliding gear and
5th/Reverse Synchroniser Pack assembly,
carefully.
Step 12:
Assemble the front housing with the assembled

intermediate housing.
Apply Loctite 574 on the mating surface of the

front housing.
Step 13:
Assemble the 5th drive gear assembly on to the

5th/Reverse sub shaft.
Step 14:
Assemble the modified 5th driven gear and

bearing assembly on to the main shaft.
Step 15:
Assemble the spacer 5th drive gear on the sub

shaft.
For sub shaft shimming, refer to the Repair

Manual.
Step 16:
Assemble the bearing on the sub shaft.
Step 17:
Apply loctite 574 on the mating surface of the rear

housing.
Assemble rear housing on to the intermediate

housing.
Step 18:
Assemble gear shift bottom lever assembly.
Use recommended grease as mentioned in Repair

Manual.
Step 19:
Fit grommet on gear shift lever and tie with strap.
Step 20:
Assemble companion flange, washer & nyloc nut.
Step 21:
Assemble Transmission on Vehicle & Take Trial for rectification of concern.
Care of the System

Use lubricant meeting oils specification of API GL4 and viscosity 75W90 Synchro. The fluid capacity/
quantity in NGT530R Transmission are 1.8 to 2 Liters.
• TRANSMISSION OIL – Replacement Procedure
Transmission Assembly - Schematic
Transmission Oil – Replace

Refer above illustration.
1. Remove the Filler plug.
2. Put the oil collection tray under transmission, Remove the drain plug. Allow the oil to
drain out completely.
3. Clean the metal particles if any deposited on the drain plug. Assemble & torque tight the
drain plug with new washer – 27.5±2.5 Nm.
4. Fill fresh transmission oil as per specified capacity & assemble the filler plug with new
washer and torque to 27.5±2.5 Nm.
5. Check Oil leakage / seepage at –
• Transmission Housing Joints.
• Transmission Oil drain plug.
While replacing the transmission fluid ensure that –

• Vehicle is parked on level ground/ 2 post/ 4 post lift.
• If the activity is done on a 2 post lift and vehicle is fitted with LSPV, ensure that the LSPV
spring is disconnected before lifting the vehicle & re-connect the LSPV spring & ensure that
the setting height is correct after job completion.
• The lubricant level should be at the lower edge of the filler plug.
• The filler plug and drain plug on NGT 530R TM to be tightened to 27.5 + 2.5 Nm.
• Rear Oil Seal Replacement (2WD) –
Follow below step If the Transmission assembly is not removed from the vehicle -
• Remove the Rear propeller shaft from the transmission end*
( Only front end of rear propeller shaft to be removed in case of 2WD vehicle)
• Refer section ‘removal and installation of propeller shaft’ for more information.
The rear oil seal is fitted at the rear end of the

Transmission assembly.
The seal is protected by dust cover.
Refer illustration shown.
• Remove the dust cover from Transmission

assembly rear end.
Use mallet in case it found jam.
• Remove rear oil seal, using tool.
• Always replace with a new seal once it has been removed.

Installation –
• Before installation apply multi-purpose grease to lip of oil seal.
• Install new seal, press until it stops.
• Refit propeller shaft assembly.
Ensure that Seal is not getting damaged during assembling of propeller shaft to Transmission
assembly.
• Gear Position/ Gear Neutral Switch Check -
If the vehicle is equipped with Engine “Stop-Start” feature, follow the procedure given below –
Micro hybrid vehicles are equipped with ‘STOP START’ system. The Gear neutral Switch is located on
the Adaptor Pivot Plate. Refer illustration below.
• Check continuity, refer below chart.
Switch Gear Position Continuity

Reverse Yes
Reverse lamp switch
Except Reverse No
Neutral Yes
Neutral Position Switch
Except Neutral No
Neutral switch should be fitted with 6 mm gap with sensor; Sensor is fitted on bottom gear
lever.
In Car Repairs -
• Transmission Removal –
Cross Member below

transmission
• Before separating the transmission from the engine, remove the crankshaft position sensor
*(OBD) from the clutch housing. *(if applicable)
• Support transmission while removing it from vehicle.
• Remove battery –ve terminal.
• To prevent oil spills, drain Transmission and Transfer Case oil before removing transmission.
• Ensure and take care of rear oil seal while removing propeller shaft.
• Lift vehicle on four post lift.
• Remove battery terminals.
• Remove Clutch Slave Cylinder* from clutch

housing.
* Ignore this illustration and follow the next one

in case vehicle is fitted with Concentric Slave
Cylinder.
• In case of Concentric Slave Cylinder -

Remove the Clutch fluid line from the quick
fix joint.
NOTE
Put a tray below to avoid clutch fluid seepage.
Avoid dropping of fluid particles over vehicle
components.
• Remove Gear Neutral switch connector*

from transmission.
• Remove reverse light switch connector on

TM assembly.
• Disconnect and remove speedo cable and

from speedo sleeve/ speedo drive fitted on
Transmission.
• Remove starter motor from the vehicle.
• Remove Rear propeller shaft.
-and-
• Remove front propeller shaft in case of 4WD

vehicle.
• Remove gear knob and shift lever- upper part.

• Remove insulator below TM and the Cross member below the TM assembly.
CAUTION:
• Support to the TM assembly bottom side for safety purpose and to avoid TM damage.
• Support engine by placing a jack under oil pan; before removing Bell housing mounting bolts.
• Do not place jack under oil pan drain plug.
• Remove bell housing mounting bolts and separate transmission from engine.
If vehicle is equipped with 4 wheel drive, ensure to –
• Disconnect and remove four wheel drive

Shift link;
This is applicable for 4WD and only if Mechanical

Shift type Transfer Case is fitted in the vehicle.
• Put tray below the transfer case, remove the

oil drain plug and drain the Transfer Case oil.
If required. This is required in case of system

overhaul.
• In case of 4WD with BW Electric Shift

mechanism –
Remove the Front and Rear side brackets on the

TF case assembly.
• Disconnect and remove the front propeller

shaft.
• Remove the transfer case insulator by

removing its mounting bolt.
Put spanner through cross member hole to

access the mounting bolt of insulator.
Support to the TM assembly bottom side for

safety purpose and to avoid TM damage.
Transmission Case Components
NGT 530R TRANSMISSION HOUSING AND ATTACHING – 2WD
NGT 530R TRANSMISSION HOUSING AND ATTACHING – 4WD
Transmission Gear Components –

Main Shaft Drive Gear & Synchroniser (2WD & 4WD) –
MAIN SHAFT DRIVE GEAR & SYNCHRONISER – 2WD
MAIN SHAFT DRIVE GEAR & SYNCHRONISER – 4WD
• Counter Lay Shaft Gear & Synchronizer –
• Main Drive Gear –
• Shift Control Components -
• Shift Rail and Shift Fork Assembly – Sectional View
A: 1st/ 2nd fork boss is facing towards rear. B: 3rd/4th fork boss is facing towards front.
C: The position of the interlock pin.
Suggestion: While assembly lightly smears the interlock pin & the detent spring & the balls with grease, so
that they do not fall.
• Transmission Shift Lever Components -
Sectional View
• Selection Biasing -
• Transmission Components Disassembly –
SCHEMATIC OF NGT 530R (2WD) TM - DISASSEMBLY
SCHEMATIC OF NGT 530R (4WD) TM - DISASSEMBLY
• Remove Clutch release bearing and fork*.
*if applicable.
NOTE:
Ignore this step, if vehicle is fitted with Concentric
Slave Cylinder.
• If vehicle is fitted with Concentric Slave

Cylinder - Remove the Clutch fluid line from
the quick fix joint. Refer illustration.
NOTE:
Put a tray below clutch housing to avoid clutch
fluid seepage. Avoid dropping of fluid particles
over vehicle components.
• Remove clutch housing from transmission

assembly. 09 nos. mounting bolts.
NOTE:
• Use mallet for slight tapping on bell housing
while removing from transmission.
• Remove the below clamp and below from the

bottom lever.
• Lever and locating pin removal.
• Use a lengthy screw driver and put gear in

neutral position for ease of removal of gear
components.
• Keep the removed bottom lever assembly safe

from dirt and dust.
• Remove the Speedo gear along with adaptor.
Remove rear dust cover.
Use mallet to remove dust cover if it is jam.
Avoid damage to the dust cover which will not

allow proper fitment.
Remove rear housing mounting bolts.
Ensure removal of all the mounting bolts from rear

housing and then remove the rear housing from
TM assembly.
Use mallet if the rear housing is jam.
Rear housing Removal -
• Rear housing should be in straight position

while removing.
• To avoid oil spillage, check and drain
remaining oil residuals from housing.
• Be careful not to damage of rear oil seal.
• Remove 5th drive gear bearing using puller.

Remove Shim and Spacer.
• Remove cylindrical roller bearing.
• Remove adjusting shim on sub shaft.
• Remove the needle case – 5th driving gear.
• Remove the 5th driving gear assembly.
• Remove the reverse synchronizer cone.
• Remove synchronizer assembly 5th & reverse.
• Remove the counter sub shaft assembly.
• Disassemble the 5th driving hub.
• Remove the front housing and separate the

TM gear assembly along with intermediate
plate.
• Keep the gear assembly safely in the tray.
• Remove the drive shaft from assembly.
• Remove the counter shaft.
Remove the 5th gear assembly along with bearing.

Use special tool for removal of 5th gear assembly. Refer illustration.
• Move sub shaft in forward direction.
• Reverse gear fork to be taken forward and

remove Circlip and bearing using puller.
• Remove 5th driven gear with bearing.
Remove shift rail locking plug.
Ensure to remove lock plug alongwith Spring and

steel ball.
Keep Plug safely to avois misplacing of Spring and

Steel Ball.
Remove 5th and Reverse hub assembly -
CAUTION:
Be careful not to lose pin, shifting inserts.
Remove poppet plug fitted on intermediate plate and shaft rail assembly of 5th and reverse.
• Be careful not to lose ball & spring while removing shaft and rail assembly.
NOTE:
• It is differ as in 2WD and 4WD.

• Output shaft in 4WD provided with lock nut where as in 2WD it is plane OD.
• Output shaft in 4WD is having splines throughout the shaft where as in 2WD it is fitted with
companion flange.
Remove Shaft rail and fork safely.
Removal of Shift Rail and Fork assembly -

CAUTION:
• Remove insert pin using dolly.
• Remove fork shaft by hand.
• Remove insert pin on 1st/2nd shift rail.
• Remove fork shaft by hand, use mallet if required.
• Remove fork on 3rd/4th and 1st/2nd
Remove elastic pin from rail assembly.
Inspect Lock pins for reuse.
• Keep lock pins safely if found ok.
• it is recommended to replace lock pins if it is

not found in usable condition.
• 4WD output shaft having splines throughout the shaft end, whereas 2WD output shaft is having
Companion flange and nut fitment arrangement at the shaft end.
Remove the circlip from output shaft.
• Remove lock nut on output shaft* in case 4WD

transmission.
NOTE:
Use special tool, lock the free movement of

assembly and remove nut.
• Remove the reverse gear from output shaft.
• Take out reverse gear from output shaft.
Separate drive shaft from intermediate plate -
NOTE:
• Use mallet to remove the main drive shaft
from intermediate plate.
• Remove main drive gear assembly.

• Remove main shaft main bearing using puller.
MD Gear dismantling –
• Remove synchro ring.
• Remove circlip and bearing using universal

bearing removal tool.
Main Shaft Drive Gear & Synchronizer dismantling –
• Counter shaft front bearing can be removed by

using bearing puller.
NOTE:
Main shaft, sub shaft bearings also to be removed

using universal puller.
• Transmission Components Inspection –
1. Shift Control Rod and Fork Inspection:

• Check contact and sliding surfaces of Shift Rod and Fork for wear, scratches and damage if any.
2. Gear Components Inspection:
• Check gear shafts for cracks, wear and

bend if any.
• Check gears for excessive wear, cracks,

tooth breakage and chips if any.
3. Synchronizers:
• Check splines portion of coupling

sleeves, synchronizer hubs, and gears
for wear, chips, and cracks.
• Check shifting synchro key for wear

and deformation.
• Check synchro key C-spring for

deformation.
4. Bearings:
• Ensure that all bearings are roll freely.

They are free from noise, cracks, wear
and pitting.
• Transmission Components 0Assembly –
• Assembly of the Transmission is the reverse of its disassembly. While assembling following care
should be taken.
• Ensure that front housing, intermediate plate and all components are free from dirt, dust before
assembling.
• Transmission bearings life will reduce in case use of unclean gear components used.
 Assembling Synchronizers (Strut type) -
• Ensure fitment of both sides.

• Check all three key for proper fitment.
• Ensure free movement of hub & sleeve.
• Ensure proper C-spring fitment.
 MD Gear Sub assembly -
• Ensure circlip groove on the bearing to be on

the top side. Refer illustration.
• Circlip to be assembled after bearing
fitment.
NOTE:
• In case circlip is missing/ not fitted properly;

excessive play in MD gear will be observed
which can lead to gear slippage.
 Counter Shaft Sub assembly -
• Ensure direction of inner race as shown in

illustration.
• Press bearing as shown in illustration.
• Press bearing to the full depth.

• Maintain runout of counter & sub-shaft within 0.05 mm. (extended countershaft with subshaft)
• Mark counter & sub-shaft with marker on spline end for matching at which the runout is within
specification.
• If run out in counter sub-shaft pairing is not maintained then 5th gear slippage can take place.
MD Gear Assembly -
• Keep bearing outer race in MD gear and

press bearing with help of dolly.
• Press pilot bearing outer race with help of

dolly.
• If outer race are not pressed properly then it may causes gearbox noisy.
• If md gear oil holes are missing then it may lead to 4th gear seizure/gear box jam due to pilot
brg seizure
Front Housing Sub assembly -
• Press output and counter shaft bearing race

to the housing with the help of dolly.
NOTE:
If outer race are not pressed properly then it

may causes gearbox noisy.
Rear Housing Sub Assembly -
• Assemble the drain plug and tight it to 25~30

Nm.
• Refer illustration. Press the Oil seal and

bearing outer race.
• Fit the circlip into the rear housing grove.
• If oil seal fitment is improper then it causes

rear end oil seal leakage.
• If circlip is not fitted properly then it causes
gearbox Seizure.
• If drain plug torque is not done then it
causes gearbox seizure.
• If dust cover not pressed completely then it
will lead to dust cover fouling with propeller
shaft on vehicle
Power Train Assembly and Plate Assembly -
• Set the counter shaft and output shaft

properly before assembly.
• Apply grease to pilot bearing.
• Insert 4th gear brass ring to MD gear.
Make sure that output shaft and MD gear are

free to rotate.
• Keep intermediate plate over counter and

output shaft.
• Assemble the reverse driven and idler gear.
Check and ensure that circlip is not having axial

play.
• Check dimple mark on 1st-2nd shift rail

before using it for assembly.
Refer illustration.
• Apply loctite on Front & Rear housing joint

Face with Loctite robo 7192.
• If retainer plate bolt torque missed then it will lead to gearbox seizure.
• If circlip having axial play then while running circlip may come out in field leading to gear
seizure.
Shift Rail and Shift Fork Fitment -
Ensure that reverse driven gear is placed•
properly before inserting 1st & 2nd gear fork.
• Put grease before placing interlock plunger
into 3rd & 4th rail.
• Put fork and then insert 1st/2nd rail; put ball
and then insert 3rd/4th rail.
• Press the 1st/2nd split pin, make sure that
1st/2nd split pin is not fouling to the 3rd/4th
rail.
• Ensure that 1st/2nd split pin should flash with
boss.
• Ensure that both pins are pressed, then
insert the plunger.
• Insert 5th/reverse synchro assembly and
5th/reverse fork with reverse sliding gear.
(Use aluminium 5th fork for strut type synchro)
• Insert ball and spring after 5th reverse rail assembly.
• Ensure to apply Locktite 574 to detent plug and put torque of 25 ~ 30 Nm.
• Place NRB before 5th Gear Placement; Use 5th gear (Without stopper on CB ring) to avoid 5th
gear slippage.
• There will not be gear shifting if split pin is not pressed.

• Crash shifting will happen if split pin is fouling.
• If there is no rail end gap, it may foul and make hard shifting complaint.
5th DRIVING & DRIVEN GEAR ASSEMBLY

• Keep roller bearing on 5th driven gear,
ensure that cone is downward side.
• Ensure that brass ring is placed below the 5th
driving gear.
• Match 5th gear tooth and press the gears.
• Ensure output shaft sleeve free rotation
after pressing 5th driven gear.
• Place spacer on the 5th driving gear sub
shaft.
• Use 5th driving gear without worm for 4WD
type transmission.
• Ensure fitment of 1.1 mm standard shim over sub shaft gear.
• Ensure presence of spacer on 5th driving gear.
• Ensure fitment of circlip on 5th driven gear.
• If gear not pressed properly then it will lead to reverse gear failure.
• If 5th spacer shimming not done properly then it will lead to 5th gear slippage.
SPEEDO SLEEVE SUB ASSEMBLY
• Ensure correct direction while assembling the oil seal.
• Ensure proper fitment of oil seal after installation.
REAR HOUSING FITMENT
• Press sub shaft inner race bearing with help

of impactor.
• Fit pre coated Puppet Plug in 4th rail bore.
• Apply 10-15 NM Torque On pre coated
puppet plug & Detent Plug.
• Use fevicol on the speedo sleeve threads and
assemble speedo gear.
• Speedo sleeve to be torque tighten to 30~40
Nm.
CLUTCH HSG SUB ASSEMBLY & OIL SEAL PRESSING

• Ensure Proper placement of clutch housing
• Ensure fitment of ball stud before fitment of
sleeve thrust bearing.
• Ensure fitment of circlip after proper
pressing of Sleeve thrust bearing.
• Ensure ball stud torque (17-22 Nm)
• Ensure proper application of sealant
(anabond - 412) around the Outer diameter
of sleeve thrust bearing for proper retention.
• Use proper locator & dolly for Eagle & NEF

clutch housing.
1. Sleeve thrust bearing not seated

properly - Oil leakage.
2. Ball stud not fitted - Clutch can't be
operated in vehicle assembly
3. If oil seal is not pressed properly it will
cause oil seal leakage.
LEVER SUB ASSEMBLY

• Use New Retainer plate & Spring as shown in
picture.
• Place circlip over pivot with the help of
fixture.
• Place bottom grommet over pivot.
• Place circlip over bottom grommet with its
grove facing towards 1st-2nd biasing, as
shown in picture.
• Wrong use of lever spring causes to lever rattling.

• Wrong direction of bottom grommet circlip causes leakage from grommet.
Intermediate Plate assembly -
• Press wire ring over idler shaft with fixture as

shown in illustration.
• Keep idler shaft and tight its M10 mounting

bolt to torque 43 ± 7 Nm.
• Assemble Bearing retainer plate by

tightening its mounting bolts.
NOTE:
Put Anabond 111 to the 6 nos. M8 size mounting

bolts.
CAUTION:
• Ensure counter shaft bearing is pressed such that bearing should be flushing with the rear face
of the plate.
• Ensure torque on M10 bolts for idler shaft. Torque value 43 ± 7 Nm.
NOTE:
• If Wire ring is not fitted properly then it will cause reverse gear crash shifting or Hard Shifting.
• If outer race missing then it will lead to Gearbox noisy & seizure due to oil leakage.
5th Reverse Hub Sub assembly (Double DOP) –

Do entire assembly of 5th/Rev hub on press fitted hub along with sub shaft or do separate sub
assembly of 5th/Rev hub & then press it on sub shaft.

CAUTION:
In case assembly is not proper, hard shifting or reverse gear failure may occur.
• Match the sleeve in hub with respective

direction. (Plain side of sleeve & grooved
side of hub on upper side.
• Insert three struts. Small length on rev side

& big length on 5th side.
• Insert the C-SPRING covering all three struts.
• Place the BELLE VELLE WASHER in hub with

tapper angle down side.
• Place the PROTECTOR & fix the circlip by

hammering using dolly.
• Rotate entire assembly on opposite side i.e.

5th side & fix the C-SPRING.
• Check the entire assembly for the fitment.
• Use Double DOP hub having groove on OD.
• In case synchro key is missing or fitted in wrong direction, no shifting will takes place or synchro
will damage in running.
• If sleeve is fitted in opposite direction, no shifting will takes place.
• In case C-spring missing or if it is not covering one key, crash shifting occurs.
• If belle velle washer is missing gear box noise may come.
• Gear box will jammed in case of circlip is missing.
Double Cone Synchronizer
Double cone synchronizer consists of Hub, sleeve, struts, inner ring, outer ring and intermediate ring
with a friction element.
Place hub on the plain surface and install sleeve

on to the hub as shown in the picture. Please
ensure big groove comes exactly in center of the
hub slot.
Place 3 nos. struts at each slot of the hub. Push

struts against sleeve and slid in the grove.
NOTE:
Be careful, struts should not jump out of ring,

causes injury.
Place outer ring on the hub by engaging ring’s

projections in to hub pockets.
Place intermediate ring as shown in the picture,

three tang should come in front of groove on the
hub.
Hub groove and outer ring tangs are shown in

illustration.
Place inner ring by engaging tangs with the
pocket of outer ring. For reference: marking on

the inner ring should come exactly in center of
groove on the hub.
A:Hub Groove
B:Marking on the inner ring
C:Outer ring tags
Place 1stgear by engaging intermediate ring’s

tang with the three cuts on the dog plate of gear.
Please ensure other synchronizer assembly
remains in the same position.
Invert the above whole assembly and put on to

the Gear box shaft.
Put outer ring, intermediate ring, inner ring and

2ndgear as described above.
Refer illustration of full double cone assembly –

1st & 2nd.
Speedo Sleeve Sub Assembly –
CAUTION:
• Ensure proper direction of oil seal during assembly.
• Ensure proper pressing of oil seal.
NOTE:
• In case oil seal is not pressed properly or damages while assembling, oil leak issue may occur.
Adaptor Pivot Assembly / Lever Sub Assembly -

• Use New Retainer plate & Spring as shown in
picture.
• Place circlip over pivot with the help of
fixture.
• Place bottom grommet over pivot.
• Place circlip over bottom grommet with its
grove facing towards 1st-2nd biasing, as
shown in illustration.
• Wrong use of lever spring causes to lever rattling.

• Wrong direction of bottom grommet circlip causes leakage from grommet.
• After adaptor dowel fitment, put the adaptor pivot on fixture/ assembly table.
NOTE:
• If pivot not entering s/a fixture fully then check whether the pivot pin is inserted fully.
Torque 3 M8 Bolts. - 24 ± 4 Nm.
• Assemble the gear bottom lever into the

Transmission assembly.
NOTE:
• The TM bottom lever assembly differs from
vehicle to vehicle as the NGT 520
Transmission is used for Xylo mDICRDe,
Scorpio M2Di, and in Bolero variants.
• Bottom lever shown in Illustration belongs to
Scorpio M2Di model.
• Assemble the correct gear bottom lever into the adaptor pivot assembly. Refer illustrations -
• Assemble the nylon bush, spring and retension plate. Refer illustartions.
NOTE:
• Ensure bush fittment. In case bush is missing, improper shifting or lever rattling may occur.
• After placing retension plate, press it and

then install the plunger and spring.
• Plunger and Spring fittmnet.

NOTE:
• In case plunger or spring is missing, biasing will not takes place.
• In case wrong spring used the biasing force will not ok.
• Side cover plate fittment. Ensure proper bolt fittment and torquing.
NOTE:
• In case bolt is missing or not torqued properly, the incorrect biasing may occur.
• Torque the side cover bolts to the torque

value 8 ± 2 Nm.
Lever Fittment -
• Apply inadequate sealant on the adaptor

pivot bottom side mating face.
Refer illustration.
• Put the rubber below over bottom lever and
adaptor pivot.
• After fitment of Bottom lever assembly into the Transmission, torque the adaptor pivot to 24 ± 4
Nm torque.
• Ensure proper location of pivot assy. with

help of dowel. - Pivot pin facing downwards.
• Fit pivot pin with pivot insertion & pressing
impactor dolly.
• Apply silicon sealant on pivot.
• Fit pivot by tapping it.
• Use new Rubber grommet along with new

metal clip.
• Keep the clips of the metal tie clip towards
5th/rev gear side.
• Apply sealant (Anabond 413/ Loctite 648) on

breather cap.
Adapter Pivot & Gear Neutral Switch Fitment -
• Place the sensor on retainer plate.

• Put two lugs of sensor on plate hole and
press it.
• Fit two bolts of M8 40 on sensor lugs and fit
one bolt of M8 20 on plate. Torque them 29
± 2 Nm.
• Put 6 mm gauge between Magnet and

sensor while fitting to ensure gap (6 mm)
between them.
• Fit the Allen screw with help of screw driver;
apply 2.5 ± 0.5 Nm torque.
• Fit the grommet on pivot.
 Assembly Inspection -
Make sure that the following check points to be carried out after completion of Transmission
assembly and before fitting it on vehicle –
• Check for presence of railed caps.

• Check for presence of breather.
• Check for static shifting.
• Check for biasing.
• Check for presence of countershaft spacer.
• Check for presence of one number M10 flange bolt with hole.
• Check for reverse lamp switch lead damage.
• Check for drain plug torque (check if it is loose by hand)
• Check for presence of filler plug.
Recommendation –
Mahindra & Mahindra recommends that after the fitment of Transmission assembly on vehicle,
check all the parameters ensure all the fitments are completed and do vehicle drives test to check
Transmission behaviour as well as vehicle performance.
Vehicle to be run in neutral condition for 5 to 10 min for proper churning or lubrication of oil.
Type Mechanical
Description NGT 530 R
Gears 5 Forward and one reverse gear
Gear shift Direct shift with rubberized lever
Gears Helical- toothed
1 3 5 Gear Engagement Block synchro ring type synchronizer

on 1,2,3,4 & 5th
2 4 R
Gear Ratio
1st 3.78
2nd 2.09
3rd 1.38
4th 1.00
5th 0.79
Reverse
3.52
Oil grade/ quantity SAE 75W90; API GL 4
Oil Capacity: 1.8 litres.
Counter shaft bearing One ball bearing & one Cylindrical

roller.
Input Torque capacity 30 Kg-m.
Weight 68 Kg
Kg
Play Limit (mm) Service limit(mm)

1st 0.175 0.375
2nd 0.175 0.375
 3rd
4th
0.175 0.375
0.175 0.375
5th 0.18 0.3
Fork to groove clearances/ 0.1 to 0.4 mm
Sealant Specification
Sr. No. Location Sealant / Thread Locks Applicability
1 Ft. Hsg. & Intermediate Plate Loctite 574 
2 Intermediate Plate & Rear Hsg. Loctite 574 
3 Clutch Hsg. & Front Hsg. Loctite 510 

Anabond 413
4 Breather 
( Retaining Grade )
RTV Sealant Metlock 920
5 Pivot locking Option 1 – Rhodorseal 
Option 2 – Pidiseal 3P
Between Clutch Hsg. & OD of Ft.
6 Loctite 510 
Bearing Retainer
Clutch Release Bearing support
7 Loctite 510 
sleeve
8 Poppet Plug M 12X1.25 Loctite 542 
Tightening Sequence
Description Torque in Nm
Transmission decking with engine 80 ± 10Nm
Tee 3 way assembly to gear carrier 8 ± 2Nm
Grommet and retainer plate fitment on bell housing 4.5 ± 0.5Nm
Gear shift lever fitment 33 ± 4Nm
Gear shift dust shield fitment on body 3 + 0.5Nm
Transmission gear shift knob fitment to shift lever 6.5 + 0.5Nm
Plug - Shift Rail Poppet Spring
12.5 ± 2.5 Nm
For 1st/2nd & 3rd/4th & For 5th / Rev = 20 – 28 Nm
Bolt / Nut – Clutch Housing To Main Housing 30 ± 5 Nm
Flange Bolt – Front Intermediate & Rear Housing 35 ± 5 Nm
Drain plug 27.5 ± 2.5 Nm
Filler plug 27.5 ± 2.5 Nm
Reverse light switch 27.5 ± 2.5 Nm
Bolt - Idler Shaft 43 ± 7 Nm
Bolt - Bearing Retainer Plate 31 ± 4 Nm
Lever Retention Bolt 24 ± 4 Nm
Lever Assy. Side Cover Plate 8 ± 2 Nm
Speedometer Sleeve 35 ± 5 Nm
Bolt – Gear Box to Transfer case 30 ± 5 Nm
Bolt – Front Companion Flange 35 ± 5 Nm
Transfer Case cover screw 30 ± 5 Nm

Description/ Part No./ Sketch Usage View
Press Plate 5th Gear Removal

MST – 502
Press Block 5th Gear Removal

MST – 505
Output Shaft Roller Bearing Press

MST – 507
Press Plate For Input Shaft

MST – 511
Rear Housing Seal Installing Ring

MST – 512
Support Transmission
MST – 522
Extract 5th Gear

MST – 523
Reverse Sub Shaft

Bearing
MST – 524
Extractor For Roller Bearing On 5th

Gear MST – 525
Extract 5th Gear

MST – 523 with Extra Large Fork
Universal Bearing Removal Tool
Transfer Case
Table of Content
Description……………………………………………………………………….…….……………..........
In Car Repair………..………………………………………………………………...........................
List of Special Tool(MST).……………………………………………………………………………….
Description
Electronic Transfer Case‐Overview
A. Electronic Transfer Case
The Divgi‐Warner’s two‐speed, part‐time electronic shift transfer case consists of a shift motor, speed sensor,
electric clutch and transfer case Electronic Control Unit (ECU). The mode selector switch located on the
centre console, which is used to select the transfer case mode and mode indicator (4WH and 4WL) are on
the dash board. The wiring harness connects the above parts with the power input.
The power received by the input shaft and is coupled to the two output shafts of the transfer case. One of
the output shafts is fixed to the rear axle and other is fixed to the front axle.
The planetary gear set provides gear reduction. The power is transferred to the front wheel drive through a
Morse HY‐VO chain drive. The oil pump provides lubrication to the planetary gear set and the upper output
shaft components. The 2H, 4H and 4L modes are obtained by rotating the selector switch, which in turn gives
a signal to the transfer case ECU that controls the operations. The transfer case ECU senses the conditions
and shifts the transfer case as per the selected mode.
The transfer case allows both two and four wheel drive operations. The HY‐VO chain‐driven output in the
transfer case provides four wheel drive for the vehicle. The positive displacement oil pump and filter in the
transfer case assures full lubrication while driving or towing the vehicle, reducing maintenance needs. The
helical gearing provides quiet and low‐range operation. The four‐wheel drive indicator light on dash board
indicates the four wheel drive. The electromagnetic shift‐on‐the‐fly provides effortless engagement of four
wheel drive high mode at highway speeds. However the four wheel drive low engagement, vehicle should be
at zero speed and should be in neutral.
The auto‐locking hub should be lubricated as per the maintenance schedule.
Power to the road wheels is transferred via mechanical units called as auto‐locking hubs. When 4WD is
selected the auto‐locking hubs lock the axle shaft to the wheel hub. This mechanical locking will occur when
the vehicle is driven in either forward or reverse direction. Incase the mode is shifted to 2WD, the vehicle has
to driven in either forward or reverse direction for few feet. Disengagement of the auto‐locking hubs can be
identified by clicking sound from the units.
4H ‐ Four Wheel High
All four wheels are driven at 1:1 speed ratio. The
four wheel drive lamp illuminates when 4H mode is
selected. This mode provides additional traction and
maximum pulling power for loose, slippery road
surfaces such as ice, snow, gravel, sand and dry
pavement. Front and rear drive shafts are locked
together in this mode which forces the front and
rear wheels to rotate at the same speed.
4L ‐ Four Wheel Low
damage to driveline components. Front and rear
drive shafts are locked together in this mode which
forces the front and rear wheels to rotate at the
same speed. Take care not to over rev the engine
and do not exceed 20 mph when driving in this
mode. When operating your vehicle in 4L, the
engine speed is considerably higher than that of the
4H position at a given road speed.
NOTICE
Because four‐wheel drive provides improved
traction, there is a tendency to exceed safe
turning and stopping speeds. Do not go faster
than the permitted road conditions. Do not
All four wheels are driven at 2.48:1 speed ratio. Use
shift to a lower gear than necessary to
this mode for maximum pulling power and traction.
maintain forward motion. Over‐revving the
Use 4L position for climbing or descending steep
engine can spin the wheels and traction will be
hills, off‐road driving, hard pulling in sand, mud or
lost. Avoid abrupt down shifts on slippery
deep snow. Driving in the 4L position on dry hard
roads, engine braking may cause skidding and
surfaced roads may cause increased tire wear and
loss of control.
Shifting Procedure
Shifting Between 2H and 4H
To shift from 4H to 2H, turn the selector switch
knob to 2H position. This can be done at any speed
from 0‐60 mph. 4WD HIGH lamp in the instrument
cluster goes out. If the lamp continues to illuminate,
drive straight ahead accelerating or decelerating, or
drive forward and backward in a short distance. If
the lamp continues to illuminate, contact an
authorized Mahindra USA dealer as soon as
possible. There may be a malfunction in your four
wheel drive system.
CAUTION
Never operate the selector switch knob if the
wheels are slipping. Stop the slipping or spinning
before operating.
Your vehicle is equipped to shift from 2H to 4H
mode at any vehicle speed from 0‐60 mph. To shift NOTICE
from 2H to 4H turn the selector switch to 4H The vehicle uses automatic hub lock system to
position. Once the shifting is complete 4WD HIGH engage or disengage the front wheels. Once
lamp in the instrument cluster illuminates. If the the 2H mode is selected from either 4H or 4L,
lamp doesn't come on, drive straight ahead whenever possible drive vehicle in reverse di‐
accelerating or decelerating. If the lamp still doesn't rection for 1 to 1.5 meters to disengage the au‐
come ON, contact your an authorized Mahindra USA tomatic locking Hubs. If the vehicle still seems
dealer as soon as possible. There may be a to be engaging the front wheels, drive the ve‐
malfunction in the four wheel drive system. hicle in reverse for further few meters to make
sure that the auto hub locks are disengaged
completely.
Shifting from 4H to 4L
Bring the vehicle to a complete stop with the brake
pedal depressed. Shift the TGS lever into N
(Neutral). Turn the four wheel drive selector switch
to 4L position. 4WD LOW lamp in the cluster should
illuminate and 4WD HIGH lamp goes out. If 4WD
LOW lamp doesn't illuminate within 10 sec. Repeat
the above steps again.
Shifting from 4L to 4H
Bring the vehicle to a complete stop with the brake
pedal depressed. Shift the TGS lever into N (Neutral).
Turn the four wheel drive selector switch to 4H
position. 4WD LOW lamp in the cluster goes out and
4WD HIGH lamp should illuminate. If 4WD LOW
lamp doesn't go out within 10 sec., drive forward or
reverse for short distance, stop the vehicle
completely, shift the TGS lever into N (Neutral) and
operate the selector switch knob again. If the
problem persists contact an authorized Mahindra
USA dealer as soon as possible. There may be a
malfunction in the four wheel drive system.
Trouble Shooting
2. Visually inspect the transfer case for any noticeable signs of mechanical damage.
3. If an obvious cause is found during the inspection, correct the same before proceeding to the next step.
4. If the cause is not visually evident, verify the symptom and refer to troubleshooting chart.
Mechanical
• Check for any oil leakage in the transfer case.
• Check the yoke, flange, drive gear and shift motor for any damage.
• Check for loose mounting bolts.
Electrical
• Check for any damage and continuity in the transfer case wiring harness.
• Check for malfunction of the transfer case module and 2W/4W change switches.
1. Broken drive chain link‐ 1. Check the drive chain and re‐

age. place it if necessary.
2. Shift motor faulty 2. Check the motor, replace if nec‐
essary.
No front wheel drive when shifted to 3. Selection switch faulty 3. Check the selection switch, re‐
4WD. place if necessary.
4. TCCU faulty 4. Check and replace the TCCU.
5. Faulty wiring harness 5. Check the wiring harness and

rectify the problem.
1. Transfer case oil level is 1. Drain old oil and fill the transfer
too low. case with specified oil.
2. Tighten the bolts and nuts to the
2. Loose bolts or mounting
specified torque.
parts of transfer case.
Noise during 4WD operation. 3. Disassemble the transfer case
3. Noisy or worn transfer
(Make sure that noise comes from case bearings. parts, and check the bearings for
the transfer case and not from wear or damage, and replace it if
clutch, transmission, drive shaft, au- necessary.
tomatic locking hubs or other com- 4. Worn or damaged gears. 4. Check for wear and damage of
ponents.)
the gear including speedometer
gear and replace necessary parts.
5. Worn or damaged 5. Disassemble and check the
sprockets. sprockets for wear and damage,
replace if it is worn-out.
1. Cracked transfer case. 1. Replace the transfer case.
2. Clogged breather. 2. Remove and clean the breather.
Replace it if necessary.
3. Oil level is high or im‐ 3. Use the recommended oil and
proper brand of oil is maintain correct oil level.
used.
Transfer case oil leakage. 4. Tighten the bolts to the speci‐
4. Sealing bolts are loose.
fied torque.
5. Improper brand of seal‐ 5. Use recommended sealant and
ant used or improperly ensure proper application.
applied sealant.
6. Worn or damaged oil 6. Replace the oil seal.

seal.
1. Faulty or damaged TC‐ 1. For additional information refer

CU, speed sensor, clutch to MDS.
or internal wiring.
2. Damaged or worn shift 2. Disassemble the transfer case and

Electronic shift problems.
cam, hub, fork or rail check for wear and damage.
shaft Replace the necessary parts.
3. 2W/4W shift motor 3. Check and replace the shift mo‐
malfunction. tor if necessary.

1. Check for external damages. 1. If external damages are found
replace the Transfer Case.
2. Check for external damages 2. If wirings are damaged, check
to the wirings of Transfer and rectify if necessary
Electronic Transfer Case
case. replace the affected
components.
3. Check for oil leakages. 3. Take suitable action and
replace the required seals.
1. Check for external damages 1. Replace the selector switch.

to the switch.
2. Check the rotary knob for 2. If the switch is hard to
Selector Switch ease of operation. operate the replace it.
3. Check the electrical 3. If the electrical connection to

connection to the rotary the rotary knob is burnt then
knob. replace the wiring.
Electronic Transfer Case ECU 1. Check for damages/corrosion 1. If corrosion is observed then
to the electrical terminals of clean the terminals with the
the ECU. suitable agents. If damages
are observed to the electrical
connection to the ECU, then
replace the affected
components.
2. Check for external damages. 2. If external damages are found
replace the affected
components.
Auto ‐ Locking Hubs 1. Check for ease of operation. 1. If the auto‐locking hub fails

to operate properly then
remove and inspect the unit.
2. Check for leakages. 2. Confirm the source of oil
leakage and rectify
accordingly.
3. Check for noise while 3. Inspect the auto‐locking hub.
operating. (after
engagement/disengagement)
In Car Repair
Removal
the battery..
B 3. Disconnect the wiring harness connection from
the transfer case.
4. Disconnect the front and rear propeller shafts
from the transfer case..
A 5. Using a 0.63”(16mm) socket and wrench set,
A remove the bolts (A) and detach the transfer case
supporting bracket (B).
6. Remove the drain plug (A) and drain the transfer
case fluid into a suitable container. (Transfer case
assembly is removed for clarity)
7. Using a transmission jack, support the transfer

case.
8. Using a 0.31” (8mm) Allen key, remove the
mounting bolts (A) and detach the transfer case (B)
from the transmission.
Installation
10. Tighten all bolts and nuts to the specified
torque.
11. Using a suitable spanner, remove the oil filling
plug (A) from the transfer case.
12. Fill up oil in the transfer case and then insert
the 0.31” (8mm) Allen key (A).
13. Remove the Allen key and check the oil level
mark (B). Refill the oil into the oil filling plug (A) if
B the oil level is below the maximum level mark.
14. Using a suitable spanner, tighten the oil filling
plug (A) in the transfer case.
Disassembly
1. Position the transfer case on the repair fixture (A).
WARNING
Dropping of heavy/large objects will damage
the part and cause personal injury.
NOTICE
A Ensure the oil is drained prior to disassembly of
the transfer case.
2. By holding the transfer case rear yoke flange with
a flange holder (A), remove the lock nut and washer
and pull out the yoke with a puller.
A
3. Separate the oil seal (A) and nut (C) from the yoke
flange (B).
B
4. Remove the mounting bolts from the bracket and

take out the speedo body (A).
5. Separate the speedo driven gear shaft (A) and

speedo body (B).
A B
6. Using a suitable flat screw driver, remove the oil

(A) seal from the rear casing.
AD
7. Remove the speedo drive gear from the rear case.
AD
8. Using a 0.39”(10mm) spanner, remove the

mounting bolts (A) and remove the speed sensor
C
bracket (B) and the motor (C).
B
A
9. Gently pull and detach the sensor from the rear
casing.
CAUTION
To avoid damage of the metal surface, apply lim‐
ited force to the bosses on the cover and the
transfer case while breaking the sealant bond.
10. Using a 0.63”(16mm) socket and wrench set

remove the nine mounting bolts (A) and remove the
identification tag (B).
A B
11. Separate the front case assembly (A) and the

rear case assembly (B).
A
12. Separate the return spring (A) from the rear

casing by pulling them outwards.
13. Using a 0.39”(10mm) ring spanner, remove the

clutch coil mounting nut (A).
14. Remove the clutch coil wiring (single pin) (A)

from the connector (B).
B A
15. Detach the clutch coil separately from the rear

casing cover.
16. Using suitable flat screw drivers (A), remove the

snap ring (B).
17. Remove the ball bearing (A) from the rear

casing.
18. Using a MST, pull out the needle bearing (A)

from the rear casing cover.
CAUTION
Care must be taken not to damage the metal sur‐
face while removing the needle bearing.
A
19. Remove the shifting fork and clutch housing (A)

from the output shaft.
20. Using a circlip plier (A), remove the circlip (B)

from the output shaft.
21. Remove the 2W‐4W lock up assembly (A), lock

up fork with sprocket (B) and drive chain (C) from
the output shaft.
A
B
22. Detach the 2W‐4W shifting fork.
23. Separate the drive chain.
24. Separate the clutch plate (A) and the 2W

sprocket (B).
A
25. Remove the output shaft (A) and the gear rotor
pump (B).
26. Separate the gear rotor pump and strainer

assembly from the output shaft.
27. Unlock the clip (E), and separate the output

B shaft (A), gear rotor pump (B), the hose (C) and the
A strainer (D).
C
D
E
28. Remove the magnet (A) from the front casing.
A
29. Remove the shaft assembly (A) from front side

of the transfer case.
A
30. Remove the cam and shaft assembly (A).
31. Separate the reduction hub (A) and the

reduction fork (B) from the case.
B
A
32. Remove the input shaft from the front casing.
33. Unlock the snap ring (A) and remove the bearing
(B).
34. Using a yoke holder (A) and a socket and wrench
set (B), remove the lock nut, washer and oil seal
B then pull out the front yoke assembly.

remove the adapter input shaft and carrier assembly
bolt (A).
A
36. Remove the carrier adapter front oil seal (A).
37. Remove the snap ring (A), and pull out the input
shaft and the sun gear from the carrier.
38. Remove the bush from the input shaft carrier

assembly.
39. Remove the needle bearing from the input shaft
carrier assembly.
40. Separate the carrier assembly.

41. Remove the input shaft assembly from the
carrier assembly.
42. Remove the sun gear thrust plate from the input
shaft.

43. Using an outer circlip plier, unlock the bearing
lock circlip (A) and remove the bearing (B).
CAUTION
Do not remove the ring gear shown in the below
figure from the case.
Inspection
1. Visually check all the parts for any damage and distortion.
2. Check the magnet for the presence of any metal particles which indicates internal damage of the
transfer case parts.
3. Referring to normal gear tooth face, specifically inspect the uneven wear, chips of gear tooth. and
bearings. Replace the parts if necessary.
Cleaning
1. Using recommended cleaning solvent clean the oil and dirt parts.
2. After cleaning, dry the parts by blowing low pressure compressed air.
Assembly
1. Insert dowel pins (A) to the ring gear casing.
WARNING
Dropping of heavy/large objects will damage
the part and cause personal injury.
A
2. Press the ball bearing (B) and install the retainer
ring to the front casing (A).
NOTICE
B
Check the ball bearing for functionality prior to
installation.
3. Install the input shaft (A) into the front casing.
NOTICE
A
Check the oil seal prior to installation. In case of
any external damages are observed, then
replace the oil seal.
4. Using a MST, install an oil seal (A) into the carrier
assembly body.
5. Using a circlip plier (A), expand the snap ring (B)
and press the ball bearing with bearing installer (C)
and lock it in correct position.
C
NOTICE
Check the ball bearing and the oil seal for dam‐
ages prior to installation. In case any damages
are observed, then replace the affected compo‐
A nent. Always ensure correct installation of the
bearing and the oil seal.
B
6. Install the needle bearing (A) into the carrier

assembly input shaft.
7. Install the bush into the carrier assembly input

shaft.
8. Install the input shaft (A) to the carrier assembly
(B) by matching the splines.
B
9. Install the thrust plate to the input shaft.
10. Using a circlip plier (A), expand the snap ring

and insert the carrier assembly with input shaft (B)
B to the adapter case.
11. Apply a 0.06”(1.6mm) bead of sealant on the

mounting face for the transfer case and tighten the
mounting bolts.
12. Install the adapter input shaft and carrier

assembly to the case, and using a 0.63”(16mm)
socket and wrench set, tighten the mounting nuts
(A) to specified torque.
A
13. Install the breather nipple.
14. Position the output shaft (A) in transfer case,

and install the end yoke assembly (C), seal, washer
D (B) and lock nut (D).
C
15. Using the MST yoke holder (A), socket and

wrench set (B) and torque wrench, tighten the front
B flange mounting lock nut to specified torque.
16. Install the reduction hub (A) and reduction shift

fork (B) into the front casing.
B
A
17. Install the electric shift cam(A).
NOTICE
Position the cam on the spring and rotate it in
anti‐clockwise direction, push the spring to‐
A wards left along with cam and fix it on the
drive tang.
18. Install the fork shaft (A) in the reduction hub
housing.
A
19. Install the magnet (A) into body.
A
20. Assemble the strainer and hose (A) to the gear
rotor pump (B). Tighten with the hose clip (C).
B
A
21. Align the gear rotor pump with the output shaft.
NOTICE
Align the guide pin of the shaft to the slot on
the pump body and slide the pump assembly
onto the output shaft over pump pin.
22. Install the output shaft (A) and gear rotor pump
assembly (B) into the reduction hub housing by
matching the splines.
A
23. Position the drive sprocket (A) on the rear

output shaft end.
24. Install the driven sprocket (A) on the front

output shaft end.
25. Install the drive chain (A) onto the sprocket.
A
NOTICE
Holding each sprocket with the drive chain
tight and parallel with the transfer case, in‐
stall the drive chain assembly to the output
shaft. Rotate the driven sprocket slightly to en‐
gage splines on the front output shaft.
26. Install the snap ring (A) into the groove of the
front output shaft.
27. Install the 2W‐4W lock up fork (A), the clutch
plate (B) and the clutch housing (C) to the output
shaft.
A
B NOTICE
Check the ball bearing prior to installation. In
case of any external damages are observed,
then replace the ball bearing.
28. Using a bearing installer (A), press the ball

bearing into the rear casing.
29. Using a MST, install the bearing lock (A).
30. Install the return spring (A) over rail shaft in the

transfer case.
31. Using a MST, install the needle bearing (A) in

correct position and press it into the cover.
32. Insert the clutch coil assembly inside the cover.
NOTICE
Insert the clutch coil wire into the hole in the
A transfer case and pull it out.
33. Tighten the coil mounting nut (A) to specified

torque.
34. Apply a 0.06”(1.6mm) bead of loctite (RTV598)

to the transfer case mounting surface (A).
NOTICE
Align both the cover holes with the transfer
case dowel pins. Align the cover bearings with
the output shaft and the shift shaft with the
cover boss.
A
Notice
Align the cover blind hole with rail shaft and
make sure that the return spring is not cocked.
35. Position an identification tag (B) and tighten the

casing bolts (A) to the specified torque.
A B
36. Install the speedo gear output shaft spline in the
cover assembly.
AD
37. Using the MST, install a new oil seal into the
cover assembly.
AD
38. Install the flange (A) with seal and washer on
the output shaft. Tighten the lock nut.
A
NOTICE
Do not fully tighten the bolts at this stage.
39. Insert the sensor (A) into its position.
40. Apply a 0.06”(1.6mm) bead of loctite (RTV598)

at the motor and transfer case mating surfaces.
41. Position the motor (C) and the speedo sensor

C bracket (B) in its position and tighten the mounting
bolts (A) to specified torque.
A NOTICE
Position the motor in its position by aligning it
with the shift shaft.
B
A
42. Assemble the speedo driven gear shaft (B) and

speedo body (A).
A B
43. Install the speedo sensor assembly (A) in its

position on the cover, and using a 0.39”(10mm)
spanner, tighten the mounting bolt to specified
torque.
44. Install the transfer case supporting brackets (B)

and tighten the mounting bolts (A) to specified
torque.
A
A
45. Using the MST, tighten the rear flange lock nut
(A) to specified torque.
46. Remove the transfer case from the repair

fixture.
NOTICE
Post installation of the transfer case on to the
vehicle, fill and check the oil level.
Transfer Case Electric Shift Circuit Diagram
Circuit Diagram
Self diagnosis of ECU:
ECU detects transfer case system malfunctions and indicates malfunctioning part(s) through flashing indicator
lights. The operator will be alerted of fault condition by continuous illumination of both 4WD HI and 4WD LO
lights on dashboard when ignition is On.
A service connector is provided to indicate the fault codes in binary. Connect one end to the pin hole
number 9 in ECU connector, and other end to the ignition switch. The flashing of indicator light will show the
defective code (as illustrated in the table). Identify the malfunctioning part and replace it.
NOTICE
Before replacing the malfunctioning parts with defective codes, check the wires and connectors for proper
condition.
Use only 12v 3-watt bulb for diagnostic purpose.
If only one part is malfunctioning, the indicator light will display defective code three times continuously. If
more than two parts are malfunctioning, the first malfunctioning part will be displayed three times and then
the other malfunctioning parts will be displayed.
After repair clear the fault stored in the memory. Ground the service connector and keep ignition 'On' for
five seconds continuously to erase defective code.
Connect a service connector as described earlier. Turn the ignition switch On. 4WD CHECK indicator will turn
On for 0.6 seconds and turn Off for 3 seconds. Then it will display a defective code 3 times continuously.
The chart for the defect codes reference is enclosed
Automatic Locking Hub
Construction
When 4‐wheel drive is selected, the automatic hub locks the axle shaft to the wheel hub. This occurs when
the vehicle is driven in either forward or reverse direction. The hub unlocks when 2‐wheel drive is selected,
and the vehicle is driven in the opposite direction for a few feet.
The 4 Tanged washers are held in place on the Wheel Spindle. The cutouts on the drag sleeve (26) fit over
the tangs on the washer, preventing the drag sleeve from rotating. The brake band (24) fits over the serrated
portion of the drag sleeve. The tangs of the brake band are fitted through the window in the steel inner cage
(21). The plastic outer cage (20) fits over the inner cage. Each tang of the brake band fits through each
cutout in the outer cage. The cam follower (19) is attached to the clutch gear (15). The follower profile on
the cam follower (A) ride against the cam faces or ramps of the steel inner cage. The clutch gear slides on
the splines on the outside the hub sleeve (16). The axle shaft(C) is splined to the inside of the hub sleeve.
The large teeth on the outside of the clutch gear can engage the teeth inside the outer clutch housing
(9).The outer clutch housing is bolted to the wheel hub. An End Cap (2) fits over the hub lock assembly. The
end cap contains a bearing assembly (6) that supports the other end of the hub sleeve. The End Cap is fitted
with Aluminum Decorative Plate (1) for better aesthetics.
Briefly, this is what happens when the hub locks
The clutch gear (15) and cam follower (19) rotate up the cam face of the inner cage (21). This causes the
clutch gear to move outward on the hub sleeve (16). The outside teeth of the clutch gear engage the inside
teeth of the outer clutch housing (9), locking the wheel hub to the axle shaft.
When the hub un‐locks,
The clutch gear and cam follower rotate in the opposite direction, back down the cam face of the inner cage.
Spring pressure forces the clutch gear inward, unlocking the wheel hub from the axle shaft.
Construction
12
13
14
15
19
16
30
26
Now, let's see how the hub operates in detail. When 4‐wheel drive is engaged (and vehicle starts to move),
the axle shaft starts to turn the hub sleeve (16), clutch gear (15) and cam follower (19). The steel inner cage
(21) And plastic outer cage (20) also start to turn. (Remember, the drag sleeve (26) is fixed to the wheel
spindle and doesn't rotate) When the inner cage window hits the first brake band tang (30) the band
tightens up on the drag sleeve. This stops the inner cage. The cam follower (19) is forced up the ramp of the
inner cage (21).
As the cam follower moves up the ramp of the inner cage, it is moved outward along the hub sleeve (16),
pushing the clutch gear (15) into engagement with the outer clutch housing. The cam follower (19) also
pushes against the lugs of the outer cage (20). The outer cage tang contacts the second brake band tang
(30). This unlocks the brake band and allows it to turn freely on the drag sleeve serrations. When 2‐wheel
drive is selected to disengage the hubs and the vehicle is driven in the opposite direction for a few feet, the
rotating front wheel turns the outer clutch housing, clutch gear (15) and cam follower (19) in the opposite
direction. The cam follower moves down the ramp of the inner cage (20). The return spring (14) pushes the
clutch gear (15) along the hub sleeve (16) and out of engagement with the outer clutch housing.
Symptoms Causes Remedial Action

Oil Leakage
Make sure that a suspected oil • A cracked or porous or improper  Replace the end cap.
leak is actually coming from the fitment of protective end cap.
hub. Oil leaks can originate in the • Damaged or missing "O" rings.
axle shaft (oil seal).
 Fit a new ‘O’ ring.
• Incorrectly installed or damaged  Fit properly.
sealing ring of the End Cap and
outer clutch housing.
Does not engage/ disengage
Before disassembly of a locking • Transfer case not engaging or  Replace the end cap.
hub, be sure the problem is disengaging front axle shaft.
caused by the hub and not • Viscosity of front differential  Check & fill proper lubricant.
another component in the drive lubricant too high (i.e. due to cold
train. weather).
Rectify.
• Front differential preload too
high.
• Seized front axle shaft bearing.  Rectify / Replace.
Noisy Operation
A broken or missing 4 tanged washer can cause problems in 2 or 4 ‐ wheel drive.
A broken or missing washer will allow the drag sleeve to rotate with the brake band. If the hub is not
engaged, the brake band is unable to lock on the drag sleeve and initiate the locking action of the clutches. If
the hubs are engaged, the brake band cannot be released to allow the clutch gear to disengage.
A broken or missing brake band cannot lock the inner cage to engage the hub or be unlocked by the outer
sleeve to allow the clutch gear to disengage.
If both brake band tangs are touching the centre post of the outer sleeve, there cannot be proper locking or
unlocking action of the brake band through the movement of the inner cage and outer cage. The centre post
of the outer cage and the window of the inner cage move relative to each other when the hub is locking or
unlocking. If the cages are not rotating freely over each other, the hub may fail to engage or disengage.
A sticking clutch gear can cause the hub to bind in either the engage or the disengage position. A broken
return spring will cause the hub to remain in the engaged position.
In each case, the defective component should be replaced with the correct part or assembly. Always check
the most recent parts list for the correct part numbers and available assemblies for the type of the hub you
are servicing.
Lubrication
• Remove drag sleeve assembly and keep aside DO NOT lubricate drag sleeve assembly as it is
permanently lubricated with Darmex grease.
• Check the brake band and drag sleeve serration for presence of appropriate quantity of grease and wear,
in case of insufficient grease, replace the drag sleeve.
• DO NOT remove the brake band as this could change the spring tension and affect hub operation.
• All components except drag sleeve assembly and outer bearing race assembly are lubricated by dipping
them in automatic transmission fluid. Allow excess fluid to drip off before assembling the hub.
Removal
1. Loosen the end cap with the help of pin spanner
2. Remove 6 nos. bolts
3. Pull out ALH from the wheel hub.
Installation of Automatic Locking Hub
1. Make sure that the snap ring and spacer is installed on the axle shaft.
2. Make sure that the slots on the Drag Sleeve are engaging with the 4‐ tanged washer. Install the Hub Lock
in the wheel hub.
3. Rotate the Hub Lock to match the threaded holes of the wheel hub. Put 6 nos. bolts face to face.
4. Tighten 6 nos. bolts with the help of special Allen key to 5.5 to 6.5 kg‐m torque using Torque Wrench.
5. Tight the end cap with the help of pin spanner.
Disassembly of Automatic Locking Hub
1. Remove the end cap and bearing race spring,
Remove the bearing inner race and retainer.
2. Invert assembly vertically so the drag sleeve
comes up.
3. Remove the snap ring with suitable pliers.

Exercise caution while removing the snap ring.
4. Remove the drag sleeve with brake band. To lift
out the drag sleeve, rotate it slightly to release the
brake band tangs from the sleeves and tilt it up on
the side opposite the tangs.
NOTICE
The clip doesn't need to be removed for the nor‐
mal servicing. However, if it's damaged, remove
it using thumbnail force only to avoid stretching
or distorting it. Do not remove the brake band
for normal servicing.
5. Remove the steel inner cage by pressing it over
the tang of the outer cage (in the window). Lift the
inner cage straight out, don't tilt it.
7. Hold the lug and go on to the next one. It's
easiest to start with the lugs opposite the one that
fits into the window of the steel inner cage.
6. Remove the plastic outer cage by prying one lug
out of the large groove in the outer clutch housing.
8. Slide the cam & follower assembly out of the
Cleaning
1. Using a cleaning solvent, clean the all the parts except DRAGE SLEEVE since it is permanently lubricated
with Darmex grease.
2. After cleaning dry the parts with low pressure (20 psi maximum) compressed air.
3. Lubricate the bearings race with light wheel bearing grease and cam & follower assembly with ATF oil.
Protect lubricated parts from dust.
Cleaning
• Visually check all the parts for damage.
• Examine the protective end cap for cracks, O ‐ ring.
• Brake band for damage or distortion.
• Also, inspect the teeth on the cam follower, clutch gear and outer clutch housing for wear or damage.
When diagnosing a "ratcheting" hub, remember that the noisy hub is "NOT" always the defective one. It
depends on whether the hubs have just been disengaged. Let's examine why.
If only one hub disengages after 2‐wheel drive is selected, the faulty hub transmits the wheel rotation to the
axle shaft. The mechanical situation is like a conventional axle raised off the ground. The axle shaft drives the
differential pinions through the side gear. The ring gear and cage are not turning, so the other side gear and
axle shaft are driven in the opposite direction to the first one. The axle shaft tries to engage the hub against
the direction of the wheel rotation, causing the noise from the hub. In this case, the faulty hub is not making
the noise. The non‐noisy hub should be checked. If 4‐wheel drive is selected and only one hub engages,
there may not be any noise from the hub, depending on the malfunction. The only symptom might be a loss
of drive at that hub. If the hub is "ratcheting" in 4‐wheel drive, it should be inspected.
Assembly
1. Following assemblies are to be replaced as sub‐
assemblies only. (if replacement is needed)
Assembly Cam Assembly Drag

& Follower Sleeve
2. Install the cam & follower assembly into the outer
clutch housing from the inside.
3. Install the plastic outer cage into the large groove
in the outer clutch housing. The cage may be easier
to install if the tangs on the each side of the cutout
are installed first.
4. Install the steel inner cage inside the plastic outer
cage. (For clarity, the cages on the right are shown
outside the hub.) The window (A) must engage the
A tang (B) of the outer cage for correct positioning.
B 5. Install the large snap ring in the top groove of the
6. Install the drag sleeve assembly in the inner cage,
so that the tangs of the brake band are located on
each side of the outer cage tang (C) and in the
window of the inner cage. Tilt the drag sleeve
C slightly to engage the tangs, but be careful not to
cock the hub sleeve.
7. Install the snap ring to the hub sleeve.
8. Install the outer bearing assembly, with the

retainer and bearing facing the interior of the hub
and the cap facing out.
9. Install the assembly end cap with the bearing
race spring.
CAUTION
Ensure that the ALH is in 'Unlock 'mode while
installing on the wheel hub.
Configuration Part time, Single Offset
Rear output configuration Circular flange
Front output configuration Fixed yoke
Input configuration Female spline
Offset hand Right hand
Lubrication System Force lubrication by Gear rotor pump
Castrol ATF ‐ TQ
HPCL ATF ‐ A
Fluid type
IOC Servo Transfluid ‐A
Chemoleum ‐ A
Housing Material Aluminum
Dry weight in kgs 30 Kgs. Aprox.
Fluid Capacity in liters 1.2
Shift Pattern 2H ‐ 4H ‐ 4L
4WH shift on the fly Optional
Shift Control Selector switch
Level oil drain plug 34 ± 6
Rear flange nut 355 ± 15
Front yoke nut 224 ± 20
Case bolts 34 ± 6
Motor bolts and coil nuts 10 ± 1
Speedo body bolt 10 ± 1
7 8 79 12 11
6 5 4
10
3
1 2
Propeller Shaft
2WD/ 4WD
Table of Content
Description……………………………………………………………………….…….……………..........
In Car Repair………..………………………………………………………………...........................
Assembly Procedure..…………………………………………..…………………………………………
Technical Specification……………………………………………………………………………………
Description
The Propeller Shaft is of a split type with companion flanges at both the ends. Propeller shaft provides
axial movement and transmits torque and rotational motion at a variable angular relationship from
transmission to axle. There is a constant change in length while transmitting torque due to change in
the transmission angle when the vehicle passes over uneven road surfaces. This is accomplished by
Universal Joints at both the ends of the shaft. Slip joint or reverse sleeve yoke allows the contraction
or expansion of the propeller shaft thus allowing the length to change.
The Propeller Shaft is built with the yoke lugs arranged in a line called phasing. This design provides
smooth running condition to the vehicle. An out of phase shaft causes vibration.
The view of the propeller shaft is shown below –
Propeller Shafts in 4WD Vehicle – Schematic
Rear Propeller Shaft
Front Propeller Shaft
Refer below illustraƟons for SUV 2WD & 4WD propeller shaŌs -
REAR PROPELLER SHAFT (2WD) EXPLODED VIEW - SCHEMATIC
SLEEVE YOKE
UNIVERSAL JOINT
PROPELLER SHAFT
TUBE WITH YOKE
FLANGE YOKE
FRONT PROPELLER SHAFT (4WD) EXPLODED VIEW - SCHEMATIC
UNIVERSAL JOINT
SLEEVE YOKE
PROPELLER SHAFT
SLEEVE YOKE
TUBE WITH YOKE
REAR PROPELLER SHAFT (4WD) EXPLODED VIEW - SCHEMATIC
SLEEVE YOKE UNIVERSAL JOINT
PROPELLER SHAFT FLANGE

TUBE WITH YOKE YOKE
Refer below illustraƟons for SC/ DC 2WD & 4WD propeller shaŌs -
FRONT PROPELLER SHAFT (4WD) EXPLODED VIEW - SCHEMATIC
UNIVERSAL JOINT
SLEEVE YOKE
PROPELLER SHAFT
TUBE YOKE
SLEEVE YOKE
REAR PROPELLER SHAFT (2WD & 4WD) EXPLODED VIEW - SCHEMATIC
UNIVERSAL JOINT
CENTRE BEARING
AND BRACKET
PROPELLER SHAFT
TUBE YOKE
Trouble shooting
1. Check tires for uneven wear. If yes, rotate/change the tires.
2. Tyres that are out of round or wheels that are out of balance cause a low frequency vibration.
3. Check the driveline for loose or damaged engine mountings.
4. While holding the flange yoke on one side, check the axial play of the joint. If the journal axial
play exceeds the specification, repair or replace the journal parts.
5. Check the Propeller Shaft tube surface for dents or cracks. If damage is detected, replace the
Propeller Shaft Assembly.
6. Check for any grease leakages in the Universal Joint.
7. Brake drums that are unbalanced cause a harsh low frequency vibration.
8. Driveline vibrations can also result from loose or damaged engine mountings.
9. Propeller shaft vibrations will keep on increasing as the vehicle speed increase.
10. The propeller shaft does not cause a vibration that is present only in a narrow speed range.
Refer below Trouble shooting chart -
Symptom Possible cause Remedy
1. Undercoating or other foreign 1. Clean the exterior of the shaft
material on the shaft. and wash with solvent.
2. Loose the companion flange 2. Tighten the mounting bolts.
mounting bolts.
3. Worn out yoke. 3. Replace the Universal Joint.
4. Loose or bent U-joint yoke. 4. Replace the Universal Joint.
5. Propeller Shaft is damaged or 5. Replace the Propeller Shaft.
Propeller shaft noise
bent.
6. Excessive axle-yoke 6. Inspect and replace the yoke if
deflection. necessary.
7. Excessive transfer case flange 7. Inspect and repair if necessary.
run out.
8. Imbalance or excessive run 8. Replace the propeller shaft .
out of propeller shaft.
1. Internal bearing defective. 1. Replace the Universal Joint.
Universal Joint noise 2. Lack of lubrication in slip 2. Lubricate the slip joints. If
joint. noise exists, replace the joints.
Component Inspection and Testing Table

Propeller shaft 1. Check the propeller shaft for 1. Replace the propeller shaft.
any external damage or bend.
Universal Joint 1. Check the joint for any 1. Replace the Universal Joint
damage, worn or excessive play.
Centre bearing 1. Check the centre bearing for 1. Replace the centre bearing.
play or noise.
General Procedure
Assembling the split Propeller Shaft
This procedure should be followed to avoid straining of the centre bearing.
Failure to follow the procedure will cause transmission noise and premature failure of the
centre bearing.
1. While locating the center bearing assembly keep the bolts loose in the slot of the Chassis.
2. Fix and tighten the propeller shaft flange at the end of the Transmission.
3. Tighten the bolts in the centre bearing mounting bracket.
4. Fix the rear propeller shaft.
The slip joint should be lubricated for every 6250 miles.
Propeller Shaft Service and Maintenance
1. Due to manufacturing tolerances and balance, the function of the propeller shaft is assured
only if the dismantled parts are reassembled in same position and plane.
2. Perform propeller shaft maintenance at regular intervals, and the actual vibrating frequency
of the propeller shaft depends on the service condition and application.
3. Check the flange securing bolts for tightness, by using a torque wrench, retighten the securing
bolts to 55 to 66 Nm.
4. If the shape of the yokes has changed to oval, replace the yokes.
5. Check the centre bearing to ensure that the fixing bolts are locked by using the torque
tightened to 72 to 105 Nm.
Front Propeller Shaft

Removal

2. Mark the Propeller Shaft Yoke (A) and final
drive companion flange clamps (B) before
removing the Propeller Shaft.
Do not damage the Propeller Shaft Flange Yoke and final drive companion flange, while marking
with paint.
3. Using a ring spanner, remove the propeller

shaft mounting clamp bolts (A) at the Final
Drive Companion Flange (B).
4. Support the Propeller Shaft, and by using a

ring spanner, remove the mounting bolts (A)
from a transfer case flange end (B).
5. Carefully remove the front Propeller Shaft

from the vehicle.
Inspect the sliding yoke for grease and play and fill the grease through the grease nipple with
a pressurized gun.
Inspection
1. Inspect the play and rotation of the joints by turning the Universal Joint in clockwise
direction.
2. Examine the Universal Joint for damage or wear. Replace if necessary.
Installation
Rear Propeller Shaft

Removal
Improper jacking will lead to vehicle slippage and cause damage to both to the vehicle and
person.
1. Position the vehicle into a two post lift.
3. Mark the propeller shaft yoke (A) and final

drive companion flange (B) before is
assembling the propeller shaft.
4. Using a ring spanner, loosen the mounting

bolts (A) from the yoke and remove the
rear half of the Propeller Shaft (B).
5. Using a 0.63” (16mm) socket and wrench,

loosen the centre bearing (A) mounting
nuts (B) from chassis frame and take out
from the vehicle.
6. Using a ring spanner, remove the propeller

shaft mounting bolts (A) from the Transfer
Case Flange (B)
7. Carefully remove the Rear propeller shaft.
Inspect the sliding yoke for grease and play and fill the grease through the grease nipple with
the pressurized gun.
Inspection
1. Inspect the play and rotation of the joints by turning the Universal Joint in clockwise
direction.
Installation
Universal Joint
Removal
1. Remove the Propeller Shaft.
2. Using suitable pliers, remove all the yoke

securing clips (A) from the Universal Joint
(B).
Relieve pressure exerted on the clip and lightly tap the bearing race and face.
3. Using a center punch (A), tap the yoke

with the rubber hammer (B) and detach
the Universal Joint from the Propeller
Shaft (C).
Any damage to the machined surface will lead to damage of seals.
Inspect the sliding yoke for grease and play and fill the grease through the grease nipple with the
pressurized gun.
Installation
1. Using a rubber mallet, fix the new journal

bearing into the flange yoke cross holes.
2. Using a soft nosed drift, tap the bearing into
position, where the soft nosed drift tap is
slightly smaller than the outside diameter of
the bearing race.
3. Turn the yoke 180° and repeat journal
bearing installation procedure for the
remaining two bearings.
4. Fit the new circlip into the grooves as each
bearing race is driven into position.
5. If high force is required to articulate the
joint, then lightly tap the yokes with a soft
mallet which relieves any pressure of the
journal bearings.
Avoid accidental spillage of the needle rollers and thrust washers from the bearing cap.
Centre Bearing
Removal
1. Remove the Rear propeller shaft from

the vehicle.
2. Place the propeller shaft on suitable

work bench.
3. Mark the end yoke before disassembling

from the propeller shaft.
4. Remove the lock nut and steel washer of

the end yoke and detach the end yoke
from the propeller shaft.
5. Remove the centre bearing assembly by

striking with a rubber hammer.
6. Place the Mid ship shaft on flat portion

and tap it, so that Centre bearing come
out from mid ship shaft.
Centre Bearing
Installation
1. Place the propeller shaft on suitable work

bench.
2. Install the new centre bearing assembly (A)

onto the propeller shaft (B).
If the centre bearing cannot be pushed into place, use a tube which fits over the spline and
contacts the bearing inner race to press or drive the bearing into place.
3. Install the end yoke (A) in the correct position

of propeller shaft (B) as marked while
removing.
4. Tighten the end yoke locknut with washer to

When the shaft is being fitted on to the vehicle, first keep the centre bearing loose, tighten at
the axle end, after that tighten the centre bearing mounting bolts.
Propeller shaft Specification

2WD 4WD
Propeller Shaft OUTBOARD Type INBOARD Type Rear INBOARD Type
model Rear Propeller Shaft Propeller Shaft Front Propeller Shaft
1350 SERIES LUB 1351 SERIES LUB 1310 SERIES
FOR LIFE UJ KIT FOR LIFE UJ KIT
2” (50.8mm) slip 2” (50.8mm) slip 2” (50.8mm) slip
Number of joints 3 3 2
Coupling methods Reverse sleeve yoke Flange Flange
with Transmission
Coupling methods Flange Flange Flange
with Rear axle
Shaft length (UJ1 437.8 209.9 Propeller Shaft fully
centre to C.B kit compressed length
centre) 27.03” (686.6mm)
(C.B kit centre to 96.5 191.5 mm NA
UJ2 centre)
(UJ2 centre UJ3 1034 870.7 NA
centre)
Tube (OD x Thk) 75 X 1.6 75 X 1.6 44.5 X 3.25
Journal axial play 0.15 MAX 0.15 MAX 0.15 MAX
Propeller Shaft run- 0.4TIR 2.9” (75mm) 0.4TIR 2.9” (75mm) 0.4TIR 2.9” (75mm)
out limit from weld joint from weld joint from weld joint
Description Torque Nm (lb-ft)

Flange bolt 60 ±5 Nm (45 ± 4 lb-ft)
Center bearing mounting bolt 90 ±15 Nm (66 ± 11 lb-ft)
Propeller Shaft Front End Fitment 52.5 ±7.5 Nm (39 ± 5.5 lb-ft)
Propeller Shaft Rear End Fitment 52.5 ±7.5 Nm (39 ± 5.5 lb-ft)
Front Propeller Shaft Mounting on Front Axle Front End 19 ±3 Nm (14 ± 2 lb-ft)
Front Propeller Shaft Mounting on Front Axle Rear End 25 ±5 Nm (18 ± 4 lb-ft)
Front Axle
Table of Content
Description……………………………………………………………………….…….……………..........
In Car Repair………..………………………………………………………………...........................
Technical Specification…………………………………………..……………………………………….
List of Special Tools(MST).……………………………………..……………………………………….
Description
Front Axle ‐ Overview
A. Pinion Flange D. Brake Disc

B. Differential Unit E. Left Side Drive Shaft
C. Right Side Drive Shaft F. Caliper Assembly
The front axle is a hypoid independent front suspension (IFS) type and utilizes shim adjustment to obtain
bearing pre‐loads. The differential case with the crown wheel and drive pinion are mounted in the opposed
taper roller bearing in single‐piece rear axle carrier. The differential bearing preload and ring gear backlash
are adjusted by using shims (select thickness). The shims are located between the differential bearing cups
and the axle housing. The pinion bearing preload is maintained by using a collapsible spacer.
The Constant Velocity (CV) joints are held in the housing by the bearings and the retainers at the outer end
of the housing. Axle shaft end play is preset and not adjustable. The hub bearings are prepackaged for life.
The axle for a 4WD vehicle receives power from the transfer case through the front propeller shaft. The
propeller shaft in turn transfers the power to the differential. The power is now transmitted to the axle
shafts through the pinion mate and side gears. The side gears are splined to the axle shafts. This is done
through two constant velocity (CV) drive shafts.
Trouble Shooting
2. Visually inspect the front axle for any noticeable signs of mechanical damage.
4. If the cause is not found visually during the inspection, refer to the troubleshooting chart.
5. Check for oil level and condition.
Mechanical
• Check for any oil leakage in the differential assembly, gasket and axle shaft oil seal.
• Check for any noise in the bearing, pinion gear, crown wheel, sun and planet gears.

1. Axle shaft lock looseness or 1. Inspect the axle shaft lock, and replace it
broken. if necessary.
2. Bent axle shaft. 2. Replace the axle shaft.
3. End play in pinion bearings. 3. Refer to pinion pre‐load information and

correct it if necessary. For additional
information refer to Checking and adjust‐
ing pinion backlash.
4. Excessive gear backlash 4. Correct the adjustment of the ring gear
Axle Noise between the ring gear and and the pinion backlash.
pinion.
5. Improper adjustment of the 5. Adjust pre‐load of the pinion bearings.
pinion bearings.
6. Loose pinion yoke nut. 6. Tighten the pinion yoke nut to specified
torque. For additional information refer
Torque specification.
7. Scuffed gear tooth contact
surfaces. 7. Inspect and replace the gear tooth if
necessary.
1. Overloaded vehicle. 1. Replace the broken shaft. Avoid loading
Axle Shaft Broken excessive weight on the vehicle.
2. Axle bearing seized. 2. Replace the axle bearing.
1. Improper adjustment of the 1. Inspect the gears and bearings for further
differential bearings. damage. Adjust differential bearing pre‐
load. Replace the case.
2. Excessive ring gear backlash. 2. Inspect gears and bearings for further
Differential Cracked damage. Adjust ring gear backlash.
Replace the case.
3. Vehicle overloaded. 3. Inspect gears and bearings for further
damage. Replace the case. Avoid
excessive load on the vehicle.

1. Insufficient lubrication. 1. Fill the differential with recommended
quantity of fluid.
2. Improper grade of lubricant. 2. Replace the scored gears. Fill the

Differential Gears differential with the correct grade and
Scored quantity fluid.
3. Excessive spinning of one 3. Replace scored gears. Inspect all gears,
wheel/tire. pinion bores, and shaft for damage.
Service if necessary.
1. Lubricant level is too high. 1. Drain the lubricant to correct level.
2. Worn axle shaft seals. 2. Replace the seals.
Loss of Lubricant 3. Cracked differential housing. 3. Replace the differential housing
4. Worn pinion seal. 4. Replace the seal.
5. Worn/scored yoke. 5. Replace the yoke.
1. Axle cover is not properly 6. Remove, clean, and re‐seal the cover.
sealed.
1. Lubricant level is low. 1. Fill the differential with the lubricant in
correct level.
2. Improper grade of lubricant. 2. Fill the differential with the correct grade
Axle Overheating
fluid.
3. Pre‐loads of the bearing is too 3. Adjust the pre‐loads of the bearing.
high.
4. Insufficient ring gear backlash. 4. Adjust the ring gear backlash.
1. Overloading. 1. Replace the gears.
Gear Teeth Broken
2. Improper backlash 2. Replace gears. Correct the ring gear back-
adjustments. lash.
Care of the System
Checking and adjusting the pinion backlash
CAUTION
Each drive pinion and crown wheel of a set is marked with a serial number which is stamped on both parts.
In addition, the bevel drive pinion is always marked with the specific distance for this crown wheel/pinion
that is to be set between the two gears.
1. Measure the height difference between old and new pinion shaft with the bearing on a standard master
block.
2. Using the special tool provided (Standard dial stand) and the master block and measure the deflection of
the dial gauge.
3. Note down the deflection which is in mm and covert it to thou's to select shim/ shim packs.
4. To decide on addition or deletion of shims from the shim pack refer the shim selection chart.
5. Reassemble the differential assembly.
NOTICE
Shims size will be specified in Thou (T), dial gauge will provide us the measurement in mm. Convert the
“mm” measurement to Thou and equate the number of shims required to get the needed number of
shims.
6. Check the all parts to see if they can be reinstalled. Check bearing seats on drive pinion for radial run‐
out. Maximum radial run‐out 0.0098 inches (0.25 mm).
Procedure to check and adjust the crown backlash
NOTICE
When the crown wheel/pinion is to be reinstalled, mark the position of the crown wheel with respect to
the differential housing. So that the crown wheel can be returned to the same position while reinstall.
1. Use the dummy bearings in place of the actual bearings along with the old shims.
2. Install the differential assembly into the differential housing.
3. Check the sideways movement of crown wheel and accordingly the shims to be added/deleted to achieve
desired backlash. Pushing the differential assembly towards pinion will reduce backlash and away from
the pinion will increase backlash.
4. To measure the backlash, mount the dial gauge on differential housing and ensure that the stylus of the
dial gauge is at 90 degrees to one of the teeth.
5. To check the backlash, rotate the Crown Wheel and note down the maximum reading on dial gauge.
6. Add/Delete the shims to/from appropriate side of Crown Wheel Assembly till the specified backlash
0.005~0.0196 inches (0.127~0.5mm) is achieved.
7. After the backlash adjustment is done, note down the shims on both sides of Crown Wheel.
8. Remove the Dummy Bearing.
9. Put the Shim pack on respective sides and assemble the new bearings on Crown Wheel.
10.Refit the removed parts.
Front Axle Parts
1. Check the axle parts for excessive play, wear, and damage, and replace if necessary.
2. Shake and check each rear wheel for excessive play, and adjust the wheel bearing hub if necessary.
Front Axle Bearing
1. Check that the axle shaft bearing for smooth operation. Replace if necessary.
2. Check the axial end play.
In Car Repair
Front Drive Shaft Removal
2. Remove the front wheels.
3. Using a suitable tool open the drain plug (A), and
drain the front differential oil into a suitable
container.
4. Remove the front brake caliper assembly.
5. Remove the front tie rod end from the steering
knuckle.
6. Remove the front upper arm ball joint from the
steering knuckle.
B
7. Separate the front lower arm ball joint from the
A steering knuckle.
8. Remove the Anti‐lock Braking System (ABS) sensor
harness from the knuckle (A) mount, disconnect the
ABS sensor harness connector (B).
9. Using Allen key bolt, loosen the front wheel hub
mounting bolts (A), and remove the hub (B).
NOTICE
The automatic locking hub is not a seviceable
A
component, in case of failure the complete hub
has to be replaced.
10. Remove the lock clip (A) from the drive shaft
(B).
11. Detach the knuckle assembly (A) from the drive

shaft (B).
12. Remove the drive shaft (A) from the axle.
13. Using the MST (A), remove the inboard oil seal
from the axle tube.
Inspection
1. Move the joint up, down, left, right, and in axial direction. Check for any rough movement or significant
looseness.
2. Check the driveshaft boot for cracks or other damage, and for grease leakage.
3. If damaged, disassemble the drive shaft to verify the damage, repair or replace if necessary.
4. Check the splines for wear and tear.
Installation
2. Using the MST (A), install the inboard oil seal in
the axle tube.
A 3. When installing the drive shaft into the front final
drive, use the MST to avoid damage to the oil seal.
Slide the drive shaft sliding joint and tap with a
hammer to securely install the drive shaft.
4. Fill up the oil and check the level.
Front Axle with Axle Shaft
Removal
1. Remove the front drive shaft assembly.
A B 2. Loosen the front axle pinion flange bolts (A), and
detach the front propeller shaft (B) from the front
axle.
Notice
Use only new boot band and boot for assem‐
A bly.
3. Using the lift jack, support the front axle

assembly.
B 4. Remove the front axle mounting bolts (A) on both
sides of the chassis (B).
5. Lower the front axle assembly (A) from the

vehicle.
Inspection
1. Check the axle shaft for straightness, cracks, damage, wear or distortion, replace if necessary.
2. Check axle case for yield, deformation or cracks, replace if necessary.
Installation
1. Fill up the oil and check the level.
Driveshaft Outer CV Joint
Removal
2. Remove the differential drain plug, and drain fluid to the suitable container.
3. Remove the front drive shaft assembly from the vehicle.
4. Mount the drive shaft in a vise.
5. Remove and discard the CV joint boot retaining clamps and slide the boot back.
6. Insert a sliding hammer (A) into threaded part of
the joint sub‐assembly (B) and pull the joint sub‐
assembly from the shaft.
7. Remove the circlip from the shaft.
B
8. Remove the rubber boot from the shaft.
Notice
• If the sub‐assembly joint cannot be removed after five or more unsuccessful attempts, replace the
entire drive shaft assembly.
• Align the sliding hammer and shaft, and remove the sub‐assembly joint by pulling it out.
• Use the vise jaw protectors for all operations in a vise.
Inspection
1. Check the shaft for any bend, cracks or other damage.
2. Check the shaft for any rough rotation or unusual axial looseness.
3. Clean any foreign material in the inner side of the joint sub‐assembly.
4. Check the shaft for any compression scars, cracks, or fractures.
Installation
1. Insert the outer CV joint rubber boot (A) into the
driveshaft (B).
B
A
Notice
bly.
3. Install the ball cage (A), steel ball (B) and inner
race assembly (C) on the shaft, and secure them by
using the snap ring.
B
Notice
Use only new snap ring during assembly.
C
A
2. Align the inner race, cage and housing according

to the alignment reference marks.
4. Fill the specified quantity of grease (A) into the
A
housing and install it onto the shaft (B).
CAUTION
To avoid the boot detaching from the shaft,
remove the excess grease from boot mounting
A surface.
5. Install the shaft snap ring and verify whether it is
seated in the groove.
6. Use a suitable screw driver (A) under the boot (B)
to allow air to escape.
CAUTION
B A
Use only new snap rings. Make sure the housing
and stopper ring are completely engaged.
7. Using the special tool (A), install the CV joint boot
retaining clamp (B).
Driveshaft Inner CV Joint
Removal
1. Remove the front drive shaft assembly from the
vehicle.
2. Mount the half shaft in a suitable vise.
3. Using paint, make an alignment mark on the
housing and shaft before separating the joint
assembly.
NOTICE
Do not scratch the surface for marking.
4. Remove and discard the CV joint boot retaining

C B clamps, and slide the boot back.
5. Using a flat‐bladed screwdriver (A), remove the
A
stopper ring (B) and pull the housing (C).
6. Remove the snap ring (A), and then remove the
ball cage (B), steel ball (C) and inner race assembly
from the shaft.
A
C 7. Detach the CV joint boot from the shaft.
8. Remove the circlip and dust cover from the
housing.
9. Using a paper towel, clean the old grease in the
housing.
B
Inspection
1. Check the shaft for any bend, cracks or other damage.
2. Check the shaft for any rough rotation or unusual axial looseness.
3. Clean for any foreign material on inner side of the sub‐assembly joint.
Installation
1. Wrap the serrated part of the shaft (A) with a
tape. Install the boot band and boot (B) to the shaft.
B
A
NOTICE
bly.
2. Align the inner race, cage and housing according

to the alignment reference marks.
3. Install the ball cage (A), steel ball (B) and inner
race assembly (C) on the shaft, and secure them by
B
using the snap ring.
NOTICE
Use only new snap ring for assembly.
C
A
4. Fill the specified quantity of grease (A) into the
housing and install the housing onto the shaft (B).
A
CAUTION
To avoid the boot detaching from the shaft,
remove excess grease from boot mounting sur‐
face.
A
5. Insert the stopper ring into the shaft.
6. Secure the big and small ends of the boot with
the boot clamps (A).
A
CAUTION
Do not reuse the stopper rings. Make sure that
the housing and stopper ring are completely
engaged with each other.
7. Using th. e special tool (A), install the CV joint
boot retaining clamp (B).
Front Differential
Disassembly
1. Remove the front axle from the vehicle.
B 2. Using a 0.55”(14mm) socket and wrench set,
remove the differential assembly cover bolts (B) and
remove the cover (A).

remove the side bearing cap bolts (A) and remove
the side bearing caps (B).
A
NOTICE
Mark the differential housing and bearing caps
prior to removal, this is necessary as the bear‐
ing caps are not symmetric.
B
4. Using a screwdriver (A), remove the RHS axle

shaft clip (B) from the inner end of the differential
assembly.
5. Using the MST (A),remove the inboard oil seal

from the differential housing.
6. Remove the snap ring and pull out the axle shaft
assembly from the differential housing.
7. Position the MST205 (A) into the differential

A locating holes. Attach the magnetic dial indicator on
the differential, load indicator plunger (B) against
the opposite side of the housing, and reset the
indicator value to zero.
8. Using a suitable double end spanner (A), rotate

B the MST205 (B) to expand the differential housing.
CAUTION
Never expand the differential housing over
0.022”(0.58mm) to avoid distortion.
9. Remove the dial indicator once the differential

housing expands.
10. Using a suitable tool, detach the differential case
from the housing.
NOTICE
Remove the shims from the differential case
and record the thickness for assembly refer‐
ence.
11. Remove the MST205 from the housing.
12. Using the MST(A), remove the differential case
bearing (B).
NOTICE
A This step is to be carried out only if the bear‐
ing needs to be replaced or there is a concern
B with the crown backlash. If any of the above is
not present then it is advisable not to tamper
with the crown wheel assembly.
13. Clamp the differential in a bench vise equipped

with soft jaws, remove the ring gear bolts (A) and
A
detach the hypoid gear (B) from the differential
case.
14. Using a drift, remove the pinion gear mate shaft
lock pin.
15. Remove the differential side shaft from the

differential case.
16. Remove the hypoid gears from the differential

case and place them aside.
NOTICE
Mark the thrust washers as per the location in
the differential case. This is to ensure the cor‐
rect backlash is maintained while installing.
17. Using the MST(A), remove the axle shaft oil seal
(B) from the differential housing.
18. Using the MST (A), remove the side bearing (B)
B
A
19. Remove the needle bearing (A) from the axle

shaft tube.
20. Using the MST(A), hold the companion flange (B)
and remove the pinion nut (C) from the differential
A housing.
NOTICE
The collapsible spacer has to be replaced after
C
B either loosening or removal of the companion
flange. This is to be done so as to maintain the
optimum preload on the pinion.
21. Using a suitable universal puller (A), remove the

companion flange (B) along with dust cover.
22. Using the MST(A), remove the pinion shaft oil

seal (B).
23. Using a mallet, tap the pinion assembly and

remove the pinion assembly from the differential
housing.
CAUTION
To avoid damage to the pinion shaft, make a cen‐
ter punch and tap at top of the pinion assembly
by using a mallet.
24. Remove the collapsible spacer (A), and by using

the MST(B), remove the pinion inner bearing from
the pinion shaft.
25. Using the MST (A), remove the pinion bearing

cone (B) from the differential housing.
Inspection
1. Inspect all bearings and races for pitting or uneven wear.
2. The inner carrier bearing races should not spin on the carrier journals. The carrier races should fit snugly
in the differential housing.
3. Inspect the carrier race bores for grooves from spinning races. The side gear bores inside the carrier
should not have any abnormal wear.
4. Inspect all gear teeth for pitting, chips, breaks, and for signs of uneven wear and overheating.
5. Inspect the axles for pitted, grooved or dull and rough bearing surfaces.
Assembly
1. Using the MST(A), install the outer bearing cone
A of the pinion into the differential housing (B).
2. Using the MST(A), install the inner bearing cone

B of the pinion into the differential housing (B).
3. Using the pinion height setting gauge (A),

measure and select the pinion depth adjustment
shims.
4. In case of replacing the pinion,

5. Using a MST(A), assemble the inner bearing (B)
on to the pinion shaft assembly.
NOTICE
A Take care to avoid damaging the pinion teeth
while installing the bearing.
6. Install the pinion shaft assembly (A) in the

differential housing (B).
B
7. Install the outer bearing (A) of the pinion into the
housing (B).
8. Install the new collapsible spacer (A) into the

A
9. Using the MST(A), install the pinion oil seal into
the differential housing (B).
NOTICE
A Apply loctite 638 in the companion flange
splines to avoid the loosening of the compan‐
ion flange.
B
10. Install the companion flange (A) and nut (B) into
the pinion shaft.

11. Using the MST 216 (A), hold the companion
flange (B) and tighten the pinion nut (C) to specified
A torque.
Notice
Tighten the companion flange mounting nut
C
B and check the pinion preload.If the pinion pre‐
load has not achieved then tighten the flange
mounting nut further. Re‐check the pinion pre‐
load. For additional information refer to gener‐
al procedure.
12. Assemble the side gears, thrust washer, thrust

block, pinion gears, pinion shaft and knock pin into
the differential case.
Notice
Install the thrust washer as per the marking
done during the removal procedure.
13. After assembling the knock pin, make a crimp so
that the pin will not come out of the gear case.
14. Adjust the backlash of the side gears and pinion
gears by setting a dial gauge to the pinion gear as
shown in the figure.
15. Secure one of the side gears into the differential
A gear assembly.
16. Move the pinion gear and measure the backlash
at an end of the pinion gear.
17. Position the MST205 (A) into the differential
locating holes. Attach the magnetic dial indicator on
B the differential, load indicator plunger (B) against
the opposite side of the housing, and reset the

B the MST205 (B) to expand the differential housing.
CAUTION
0.022” (0.58mm) to avoid distortion.
19. Install the crown assembly with the dummy

bearings (B) in the carrier. Install the bearing cap
bolts (A) as per the marking made during removal
A
and tighten to the specified torque.
20. Using the dial indicator (A), measure the crown

wheel backlash (B).
A
21. Detach the carrier assembly from the differential

housing.
B 22. Using a socket and wrench set (A), tighten the

ring gear bolts (B) on the differential case to the
specified torque.
NOTICE
A
Remove the dummy bearing from the carrier
assembly after checking the backlash.
23. Using the MST(A), install the bearing (B) with

A B the shims into the differential case.
NOTICE
Mark the number of shims on each side of the
differential case while the backlash adjust‐
ment is done, the same number of shims have
A to added during the bearing installation. If this
is not followed, the backlash would exceed its
specification and affect the performance of the
differential thereby possibly leading to dam‐
age.
24. Insert the differential case (A) into the housing

(B).
A
B
25. Install the bearing caps (B) and tighten the bolts
(A) to the specified torque.
NOTICE
A
Ensure that bearing caps are installed as per
the markings made during removal else this
could lead to improper functioning of the dif‐
ferential assembly bearing.
B
26. Remove the MST 205 from the housing.
27. Using the MSTXX (A), install the axle shaft oil
seal into the differential housing (B).
B
28. Using the MST(A), install the side bearing into

29. Using the MST(A), install the Needle bearing in

the axle shaft tube.
30. Install the axle shaft assembly and fit the snap
ring.
NOTICE
Confirm that the axle shaft has been located
properly in the differential.
31. Using the MST(A), install the inboard oil seal on
the differential housing.
32. Using a screwdriver (A), install the RHS axle shaft
clip (B) into the differential and lock the inner end
of the shaft.
33. Apply sealant evenly across the exterior surface

B of the differential and install the differential cover
(A) into the differential housing and tighten
mounting bolts (B) to the specified torque.
34. Install the front axle into the vehicle.
35. Check the oil level and correct if necessary.
NOTICE
Check the condition of the axle shaft outboard
A oil seal, if found to be damaged then replace
the oil seal prior to the installation of the front
axle on the vehicle.
Shim Selection Chart
OLD
Pinion New Pinion Marking
Marking
-4 -3 -2 -1 0 1 2 3 4
-4 0 -1 -2 -3 -4 -5 -6 -7 -8
-3 1 0 -1 -2 -3 -4 -5 -6 -7
-2 2 1 0 -1 -2 -3 -4 -5 -6
-1 3 2 1 0 -1 -2 -3 -4 -5
0 4 3 2 1 0 -1 -2 -3 -4
1 5 4 3 2 1 0 -1 -2 -3
2 6 5 4 3 2 1 0 -1 -2
3 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 0 -1
4 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 0
• While replacing the old pinion check the marking on the pinion.
• Suppose if the marking on the pinion is ‐2.
• Check the marking on the new pinion.
• For example, if the marking on the pinion is ‐1. Then check the table. The value obtained is ‐1. Then shim
needs to be removed from the Shim Pack
Axle Housing Type Salisbury‐Independent
Axle Ratio 4.56
Pinion Pre Load PTTR‐ 1.47‐2.20 Nm
Differential Bearings Pre‐load for Gear Ratio 4.56 TTTR = PTTR + (0.23 to 0.34)
Crown‐pinion Backlash 0.005‐0.008” (0.127 ‐
0.203mm)
Maximum Variation of Backlash in a Crown 0.004”(0.1mm)
Run Out of the Ring Gear/Crown Wheel 0.002”(0.05mm)
Pinion Height 11.27” (286.36mm)
Pinion Height 11.27” (286.36mm)
Backlash of Side Gear and Differential Pinion 0.002‐0.006” (0.05 ‐
0.15mm)
Front Axle Fluid 75W90 Customer filled
Capacity/Quantity 0.32 gallons (1.2 Liters)
Differential Cover Sealant Silicone Rubber Gasket
Front Disc Caliper Mounting Bolts 40 ± 6
Grease Cup Mounting Bolts 230 ± 13
Half Shaft Lock Nut 61 ± 7
Half Shaft Mounting Nut 108 ± 13
Wheel Nuts 18 ± 2
Cover Screws 41.5 ± 4.5
Fill Plug 27.5 ± 7.5
Diffcase Bearing Cap Screws 57.5 ± 10.5
Ring Gear Screw 108.5 ± 13.5
Pinion nut 283.5 ± 66.5
Drain Plug 34.5 ± 11.5
Pinion Bearing Preload 34.5 ± 11.5
Breather Adapter 35 ± 5
Brake Shield Mounting Bolts 41 ± 6
Hub Assembly and Brake Disc Assembly 68 ± 10
Spindle Nut Torque 68
Spindle Lock Nut Torque 254 ± 51
Brake Disc Run Out 0.10 mm Max
MST NO Tool Name Illustration
MST0574 Dolly for Pressing Oil Seal in Hub
Dolly For Pressing Inner Bearing
MST 577
Cup Front Hub
Dolly for Pressing Outer Bearing
MST0572
Cup Front Hub
Rear Axle
Table of Content
Description……………………………………………………………………….…….……………..........
In Car Repair………..………………………………………………………………...........................
Technical Specification…….…………………………………………………………………………….
Description
Rear Axle ‐ Overview
The rear axle is a hypoid semi‐floating type. The differential case along with the crown wheel and the drive
pinion are mounted in an opposed taper roller bearing in a single piece rear axle carrier.
The rear axle pinion receives power from the engine through the transmission and drive shaft. The drive
pinion rotates the differential by engaging with the crown wheel, which is bolted to the differential case
flange. Inside the differential cage, there are two pinion mate gears mounted on pinion mate shaft. These
gears are engaged with the side gears to which the axle shafts are splined. As the differential housing turns,
it rotates the axle shaft and the rear wheel. When it is necessary for one wheel to rotate faster than the
other, the faster turning gear causes the pinion to roll on the slower turning gear and allow differential
action between the two axle shafts.
The axle shafts are held in the housing by the bearings and the retainers at the housing outer end. Axle shaft
endplay is pre set and not adjustable. The hub bearings are prepackaged for life.
All operations other than the removal of the axle shafts and the replacement of the wheel bearing oil seal
should be carried out with the axle removed from the vehicle.
Trouble Shooting
2. Visually inspect the rear axle for any noticeable signs of mechanical damage.
4. If the cause is not found visually during the inspection, refer to the troubleshooting chart.
Remember:
Before diagnosing the whine as axle gear noise, ensure that the whine:
1. Occurs in direct transmission ratio. (4th gear)
2. Changes with throttle/ accelerator variations (drive and coast). (i.e driving in neutral with the clutch
released and engine running)
3. Always occur at the same road speed and not engine speed, Occurs over a limited vehicle speed. (This
can vary over a wide band should the axle be in extremely bad condition)
Bearing Noise:
Bearing noise is inclined to be less throttle sensitive than gear noise and frequently occurs over a wide speed
range. Bad cases of faulty bearings can, in fact be detected from walking speed, building up in pitch as speed
increases and is not directly affected by changing from drive to coast (i.e. driving in neutral with the clutch
released and engine running) and visa versa.
a. Rear wheel bearing noise tends to be low pitched grumble, which can normally be detected and
confirmed when driving on a smooth road at constant speed, with the noise most audible while swerving
sharply from left to right. If the noise increases or a decrease as the car is swerved, it is probable that a
wheel bearing is faulty. Driving close to a wall or a curb at a suitable speed can carry out a further check
for wheel bearing noise.
b. Differential bearing noise is usually similar to in pitch to wheel bearing noise but is not affected by the
swerve check referred to previously.
c. Pinion bearing noise is normally at a higher pitch than wheel or differential bearings and is often slightly
sensitive to throttle position, although not to the same extent as gear noise.
Bearing Noise:
1. A further condition, which can exist, is due to a worn bearing that allows the gear set to move out of its
correct mesh cause gear noise. This condition is usually throttle sensitive, with the noise frequently
disappearing on a “drive” condition. Any amount of or endplay in either the pinion bearings or
differential carrier bearings are detrimental to the gears and bearings and will cause axle noise.
2. A high spot sometimes occur on either the ring gear or the drive pinion; this shows up as a ticking or
light knocking noise over a restricted range of throttle position. The frequency of the noise will indicate
whether the high spot is on the pinion (drive shaft frequency) or on the ring gear. The severity of the
noise indicates the size of the defect. A light “tick “is seldom detrimental and usually occurs in new axle
and will normally disappear once the axle has been run in.
3. Louder noise usually indicates a more serious defect and a knock occurring in an axle which was
previously free from this type of noise must always be investigated.
NOTICE
Unless otherwise specified the assembly procedure/ guidelines is the reverse of the disassembly procedure.
The backlash adjustment:
BEARING PRE LOAD

REMOVE SHIMS
SHIM PACK
ADD SHIMS
PINION LOCATING
SHIM PACK
INCREASE BACKLASH DECREASE BACKLASH
DIFFERENTIAL BEARING
SHIM PACK
CAUTION
The backlash adjustment should not be done on
the vehicle ‐ This is due to the fact that the
spreader usage in vehicle is difficult if the vehicle
isn’t being attended in a pit. Further after adjust‐
ment it may be necessary to adjust pinion height.
(Any change in backlash indicates wear‐ hence
though shim adjustment may compensate for
gear teeth wear. It will not compensate the pin‐
ion wear and pinion bearing wear and loss of
preload)
COMPROMISED SETTING
Certain rear axle and driveline trouble symptoms are also common to the engine, transmission, tyres and
other parts of the Vehicle. For this reason be sure that the cause of the trouble is in the rear axle before
adjusting, repairing or replacing any of the axle parts.
1. Axle Shaft lock loose or 1. Inspect the axle shaft lock, and replace it

broken if necessary.
2. Bent axle shaft. 2. Inspect and replace the axle shaft if
necessary.
3. End‐play in pinion bearings. 3. Check the pinion pre‐load and bearing,
Adjust if necessary.
4. Excessive gear backlash be‐ 4. Check the adjustment of the ring gear
tween the ring gear and pin‐ and pinion backlash. Correct it if
ion. necessary.
Rear axle noise
5. Improper adjustment of 5. Adjust pre‐load of the pinion bearings.
pinion gear bearings.
6. Loose pinion yoke nut. 6. Tighten the pinion yoke nut to the
specified torque.
7. Scuffed gear tooth contact 7. Inspect and replace the gear as necessary.
surfaces.
8. Tighten carrier cap screws.
8. Loose carrier cap screws.
9. Adjust differential gear bearings.
9. Loose differential gear
bearings.
1. Overloaded vehicle. 1. Replace the broken shaft, and avoid ex‐
Axle shaft broken cessive load on the vehicle.
2. Axle bearing seized 2. Replace the bearing.
1. Improper adjustment of the 1. Replace the differential case, inspect the
differential bearings. gears and bearings for further damage.
Adjust the differential bearing pre‐load.
2. Excessive ring gear backlash. 2. Replace the differential case, inspect the
Differential Cracked gears and bearings for further damage.
Adjust the ring gear backlash.
3. Vehicle overloaded. 3. Replace the differential case, inspect
gears and bearings for further damage.
Avoid excessive vehicle load.
1. Insufficient lubrication. 1. Replace the scored gears. Fill oil in the
differential with the correct level.
2. Replace the scored gears and lubricant.
Differential Gears 2. Improper grade of lubricant. Fill differential with the recommended
Scored lubricant.
3. Excessive spinning of one 3. Replace the scored gears. Inspect all the
wheel. gears, pinion bores, and the shaft for
damage. Service it if necessary.
1. Oil level is too high 1. Drain the oil to correct level.

2. Worn axle shaft seals. 2. Replace the seals.
3. Cracked differential housing. 3. Replace the differential housing. Fill the
differential with recommended oil.
Oil loss
4. Worn pinion seal. 4. Replace the seal.
5. Worn or scored yoke. 5. Replace the yoke and the seal.
6. Axle cover is not properly 6. Remove, clean the surface and re‐seal the
sealed. cover.
1. Oil level is too low. 1. Fill the differential with correct fluid lev‐
2. Improper grade of lubricant. el.
2. Fill the differential with the
3. Pre‐loads of bearing is too recommended lubricant.
Rear axle overheating
high. 3. Adjust the pre‐loads of the bearing to
4. Insufficient ring gear the specification.
backlash. 4. Adjust the ring gear backlash to the
specification.
1. Excessive ring gear backlash. 1. Adjust the ring gear as necessary.

2. Differential gears scored. 2. Replace the gears, and examine the re‐
3. Worn out differential bear‐ maining parts for damage.
Wining noise
ings. 3. Replace the bearings and adjust the pre‐
4. Worn out differential gears. load as necessary.
4. Replace the gears as necessary.
Component Inspection and Testing Table
• Check the axle shaft for • Replace the rear axle

straightness, cracks, damage, assembly.
Rear Axle wear or distortion.
• Check the axle case for yield, • Replace the rear axle
deformation or cracks. assembly.
• Check the differential gears • Replace the necessary parts.

teeth for pitting, chips,
breaks, and signs of uneven
Differential wear.
• Inspect the carrier race bores • Replace the necessary parts.
for grooves from spinning
races and for abnormal wear.
Care of the System
Checking And Adjusting The Pinion Backlash
NOTICE
Make ensure that the differential does not fall out of the rear housing.
CAUTION
Each drive pinion and crown wheel of a set is marked with a serial number which is stamped on both parts.
In addition, the bevel drive pinion is always marked with the specific distance for this crown wheel/pinion
that is to be set between the two gears.
1. Measure the height difference between old and new pinion shaft with the bearing on a standard master
block.
2. Using the special tool provided (Standard dial stand) and the master block and measure the deflection of
the dial gauge.
3. Note down the deflection which is in mm and covert it to thou's to select shim/ shim packs.
4. To decide on addition or deletion of shims from the shim pack.
5. Reassemble the differential assembly.
NOTICE
Shims size will be specified in Thou (T), dial gauge will provide us the measurement in mm. Convert the
“mm” measurement to Thou and equate the number of shims required to get the needed number of
shims.
6. Check the all parts to see if they can be reinstalled. Check bearing seats on drive pinion for radial run‐
out. Maximum radial run‐out 0.0098 inches (0.25 mm).
Procedure To Check And Adjust The Crown Backlash
NOTICE
When the crown wheel/pinion is to be reinstalled, mark the position of the crown wheel with respect to
the differential housing. So that the crown wheel can be returned to the same position while reinstall‐
ing.
1. Use the dummy bearings in place of the actual bearings along with the old shims.
2. Check the sideways movement of crown wheel and accordingly the shims to be added/deleted to achieve
desired backlash. Pushing the differential assembly towards pinion will reduce backlash and away from
the pinion will increase backlash.
3. Install the differential assembly into the differential housing.
4. To measure the backlash, mount the dial gauge on differential housing and ensure that the stylus of the
dial gauge is at 90 degree to one of the teeth.
5. To check the backlash, rotate the Crown Wheel and note down the maximum reading on dial gauge.
6. After the backlash adjustment is done, note down the shims on both sides of Crown Wheel.
7. Remove the Dummy Bearing.
8. Put the Shim pack on respective sides and assemble the new bearings on Crown Wheel.
9. Refit the removed parts.
Procedure to check and set the pinion collapsible spacer torque (Collapsible spacer pre‐
load)
1. Install the pinion with the shims selected.
2. The pinion nut is tightened until the spacer collapses and apply a specific preload to the bearings.
3. Connect the special tool and measure the pinion preload.
4. If the measured value, lies below the specified then tighten the companion flange nut again slightly.
Measure the preload again.
5. This procedure is to be done, till the measured preload lies with the specified value.
6. Take care not to overtighten the pinion nut.
Rear Axle Parts
1. Check the axle parts for excessive play, wear, or damage and replace if necessary.
2. Shake and check each rear wheel for excessive play, adjust the wheel bearing hub if necessary.
3. Tighten all nuts and bolts to the specified torque.
Rear Axle Bearing
1. Check the axle shaft bearing for smooth operation, and replace if necessary.
2. Check the axial end play.
In Car Repair
Rear Axel Removal
1. Remove the rear wheel.
2. Remove the differential drain plug, and drain the fluid into a suitable container.
3. Remove the rear propeller shaft from the rear axle pinion flange.
NOTICE
Mark differential and propeller shaft flanges with identification marks during removal.
4. Remove all the electrical harnesses from the rear axle assembly.
5. Remove both sides parking brake cable connection from the rear axle.
6. Remove the stabilizer bar.
7. Using the lift jack, support the rear axle assembly.
8. Remove both sides of the leaf spring assembly from the rear axle.
9. Slowly lower the rear axle assembly from the jack supports, and place it on the work table.
Inspection
1. Check the axle shaft for straightness, cracks, damage, wear or distortion, replace it if necessary.
2. Check the axle case for yield, deformation or cracks, replace if necessary.
Installation
2. Fill oil and check the level.
Rear axle shaft (Toner ring / Bearing / Outboard Oil Seal) – RH/LH
Removal
1. Remove the rear wheel.
2. Remove the rear brake disc.
3. Using a socket and extension wrench, remove the
axle shaft lock bolts (4 nos) from the hole present in
the wheel hub (Do not remove the wheel hub).
4. Using a 17mm socket and wrench, remove the

axle carrier mounting nuts.
5. Mount the MST on the wheel hub.
6. Fix the MST (A) to the MST (B) and remove the
rear axle shaft from the differential.
7. Using a suitable tool, remove the axle shaft inner

oil seal (A) from the axle tube housing.
8. Using MST, remove the rear axle shaft toner ring,
bearing and oil seal.
9. Remove the outboard cil seal (A) from the axle
tube.
Installation
1. Install the backplate and bearing mounting bolts
(A) to the axle shaft.
A NOTICE
Lubricate the rear axle shaft bearings ade‐
quately, using the special bearing grease.
2. Install the outboard oil seal (A) to the axle shaft.
Notice
Replace the toner ring and bearing assembly
once removed.
A
3. Using the MST install the bearing (A) to the axle
shaft.
Notice
A
Ensure that the axle shaft bearing is properly
seated in its position.
4. Using the MST install the toner ring to the axle
shaft.
Notice
A
Press the toner ring till the circlip groove is
clearly visible to install the circlip.
5. Using the circlip plier, install the toner ring lock
(A) to the axle shaft.
6. Using the MST (A), install the axle shaft inner oil
seal to the axle tube housing.
7. To install, reverse the removal procedure and
A tighten to the specified torque.
Rear Differential
Disassembly
1. Remove the rear axle shafts.
B 2. Remove the differential drain plug, and drain the

fluid into a suitable container.
remove the differential assembly cover bolts (A) and
remove the cover (B).

remove the side bearing cap bolts (A) and remove
the side bearing caps (B).
B
NOTICE
Mark the differential housing and bearing caps
for installation reference.
5. Position the MST (A) on the differential locating

holes. Attach the magnetic dial indicator (B) on the
B differential and load indicator plunger against the
opposite side of the differential housing, reset the

the MST (B) to expand the differential housing.
7. Remove the dial indicator as the differential
housing expands.
B
CAUTION
0.02”(0.58mm), this may lead to distortion.
A
8. Using a suitable tool, take out the differential

case from the housing.
9. Remove the MST from the housing.
10. Using a suitable tool, remove the gear carrier

end oil seals (A).
A
11. Using the MST (A), remove the differential case

bearing (B).
NOTICE
This step is to be carried out only if the bear‐
ing needs to be replaced or there is a concern
A with the crown backlash. If any of the above is
not present then it is advisable not to tamper
with the crown wheel assembly.
B
NOTICE
Remove the shims from the differential case
and record the thickness for assembly refer‐
ence.
12. Clamp the differential in a bench vise equipped

with soft jaws, and remove the ring gear bolts (A).
B
Detach the ring (B) from the differential case.
13. Using a 0.51” (13mm) ring spanner, remove the

pinion gear mate shaft lock bolt.
14. Remove the differential side shaft from the

differential case.
15. Remove the hypoid gears from the assembly and
place them aside.
NOTICE
Mark the thrust washers as per the location in
the differential case. This is to ensure the cor‐
rect backlash is maintained while installing.

16. Using the MST (A), hold the companion flange
(B) and remove the pinion nut (C) from the
differential housing.
NOTICE
The collapsible spacer has to be replaced after
A either loosening or removal of the companion
B
flange. This is to be done so as to maintain the
optimum preload on the pinion.
C
17. Using a suitable universal puller (A), remove the

companion flange (B) along with dust cover.
18. Using the MST (A), remove the oil seal (B) of the
pinion shaft and then remove the spacer.
19. Using a mallet, tap the pinion assembly and

remove the pinion assembly from the differential
housing.
CAUTION
To avoid damage to the pinion shaft, make a cen‐
ter punch and tap at top of the pinion assembly
by using the mallet.
20. Remove the collapsible spacer from the pinion

shaft. Using the MST (A), remove the pinion inner
bearing (B) from the pinion shaft.
21. Using MST (A), remove the pinion inner cone (B)
22. Using the MST (A), remove the pinion bearing

outer race (B) from the differential housing.
Inspection
1. Inspect all bearings and races for pitting or uneven wear.
2. The inner carrier bearing races should not spin on the carrier journals. The carrier races should fit snugly
in the differential housing.
3. Inspect the carrier race bores for grooves from spinning races. The side gear bores inside the carrier
should not have any abnormal wear.
4. Inspect all gear teeth for pitting, chips, breaks, and signs of uneven wear or overheating.
5. Inspect the axles for pitted, grooved, or dull and rough bearing surfaces.
Assembly
1. Using the MST (A), install the pinion bearing
outer race into the differential assembly (B).
A
2. Using the MST (A), install the pinion inner race
into the differential housing (B).
3. Using the pinion height setting gauge (A),

measure and select the pinion depth adjustment
shims.
4. Using a MST (A), assemble the inner bearing (B)

on to the pinion shaft assembly.
NOTICE
Take care to avoid damaging the pinion teeth
A while installing the bearing.
5. Install the pinion shaft assembly (A) in the

6. Using a special tool MST install the outer bearing

(A) of the pinion into the housing (B).
7. Install the thrust washer (A) into the differential

housing (B).
A
8. Using the MST (A), install the pinion oil seal into
A
NOTICE
Apply loctite 638 on the companion flange
splines to avoid the loosening of the compan‐
ion flange.
B
9. Install the companion flange and nut into the

pinion shaft. Using the MST (A), hold the companion
flange (B) and tighten the pinion nut (C) to the
specified torque.
NOTICE
A Tighten the companion flange mounting nut
B
and check the pinion preload.If the pinion pre‐
load has not achieved then tighten the flange
mounting nut further. Re‐check the pinion pre‐
C
load. For additional information refer to gener‐
al procedure.
10. Assemble the side gears, thrust washer, thrust

block, pinion gears, pinion shaft and knock pin into
the differential case.
NOTICE
Install the thrust washer as per the marking
done during the removal procedure.
11. Install the differential side shaft into the

differential case.
12. After assembling the knock pin, install the shaft

lock bolt in the gear case.
13. Adjust the backlash of the side gears and pinion
gears by setting a dial gauge to the pinion gear as
shown in the figure. To check and adjust the
A backlash,
14. Secure one of the side gears onto the

differential gear assembly.
B 15. Move the pinion gear and measure the backlash
at an end of the pinion gear.
16. Position the MST (A) on the differential locating
holes. Attach the magnetic dial indicator (B) on the
differential and load indicator plunger against the
opposite side of the differential housing, reset the
A

the MST 205 (B) to expand the differential housing.
CAUTION
B 0.02”(0.58mm), this may lead to distortion.
18. Install the crown assembly with the dummy

bearings (B) in the carrier. Install the bearing cap
bolts (A) as per the marking made during removal
B and tighten to the specified torque.
NOTICE
Install the dummy bearing on the crown assem‐
bly and insert the complete assembly on to the
carrier. Check the backlash of the crown wheel.
A NOTICE
The MST provides accurate reading and avoids
the damage to the bearing while checking the
thickness of the shim.
19. Using the dial indicator (A), measure the

backlash (B) of the crown wheel.
A
20. Detach the carrier assembly and remove the

dummy bearings, now place the selected shim on
the crown assembly.
21. Using the MST (A), install the bearing (B) with
the shims into the differential case.
Notice
Mark the number of shims on each side of the
A
differential case while the backlash adjust‐
B ment is done, the same number of shims have
to added during the bearing installation. If this
is not followed, the backlash would exceed its
specification and affect the performance of the
differential thereby possibly leading to dam‐
age.
22. Using a socket and wrench set (A), Install the

ring gear on the differential case and tighten the
B bolts (B) to the specified torque.
23. Using the MST (A), install the gear carrier end oil
seals.
24. Position the MST 205 (A) on the differential

locating holes. Attach the magnetic dial indicator (B)
B on the differential and load indicator plunger against
the opposite side of the differential housing, reset
the indicator value to zero.

the MST 205 (B) to expand the differential housing.
CAUTION
B
0.02”(0.58mm), this may lead to distortion.
26. Insert the differential carrier assembly (A) into

A the housing (B).
B
27. Install the carrier side bearing caps (A) and

B tighten the bolts (B) to the specified torque.
Notice
Ensure that the bearing caps are installed as
per the markings made during removal else
this could lead to improper functioning of the
differential assembly bearing.
A
28. Apply sealant to the exterior surface of the

differential and then install the differential cover (A)
on the differential housing and tighten the mounting
B bolts (B) to the specified torque.
29. Fill the differential oil into the differential
housing.
30. Install the rear axle shaft into the differential
housing.
A
31. Fill oil and check the level.
Axle Type Semi‐Floating single reduc‐
tion without differential lock
No.of Teeth on crown wheel (N1) 41
No. of Teeth on pinion wheel (N2) 9
Axle Reduction Ratio (N1/N2) 4.55
Drive shaft length (mm) Left side‐
Right side‐
Pinion pre‐load 23 ‐ 45 Kg/cm
Differential bearings pre‐load 0.003"(0.075 mm)
Crown‐pinion backlash 0.005 ‐ 0.01"(0.127 ‐
0.254mm)
Maximum variation of backlash in a crown 0.003"(0.0762 mm)
Run‐out of the ring gear/crown wheel 0.006"(0.15 mm)
Hub end‐play Max 0.012"(0.3 mm)
Clearance between and side (sun) gears and differential case 0.008"(0.20 mm)
Rotational torque of differential case with sun and pinion gears 5 Kg/cm
Inner race interference outer race clearance 0.005 ‐ 0.007” (0.127 ‐ 0.18
mm)
Rear Axle Fluid 75W90
Capacity/Quantity 2.1 liters
Oil grade/ Viscosity/Quantity SAE 80W90 GL5
Shim Selection Chart
OLD
Pinion New Pinion Marking
Marking
-4 -3 -2 -1 0 1 2 3 4
-4 0 -1 -2 -3 -4 -5 -6 -7 -8
-3 1 0 -1 -2 -3 -4 -5 -6 -7
-2 2 1 0 -1 -2 -3 -4 -5 -6
-1 3 2 1 0 -1 -2 -3 -4 -5
0 4 3 2 1 0 -1 -2 -3 -4
1 5 4 3 2 1 0 -1 -2 -3
2 6 5 4 3 2 1 0 -1 -2
3 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 0 -1
4 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 0
• While replacing the old pinion check the marking on the pinion.
• Check the marking on the new pinion.
• Then check the table. The value obtained is ‐1. Then shim needs to be removed from the Shim Pack.
Front Disc Caliper Mounting Bolts 40 ± 7
Grease Cup Mounting Bolts 230 ± 13
Half Shaft Lock Nut 61 ± 7
Half Shaft Mounting Nut 110 ± 12
Wheel Nuts 18 ± 2
Cover Mounting Bolt 22 ± 6
Crown Wheel Mounting Bolt 77 ± 10
Pinion Lock Bolt 36 ± 4
Bearing Cap 105 ± 17
Pinion Nut 230 ± 13
Filler Plug 29 ± 5
Drain Plug 46 ± 6
Rear Caliper Mounting 100 ± 10
Brake Mounting 60 ± 10
MST 576 Puller Rear Axle Shaft
MST 577 Sliding Hammer
MST 578 Ring Rear Axle Collar Support
MST 579 Tube‐rear Axle Collar Pressing
MST 539 Installer Inner Oil Seal Rear Axle Tube
MST 581 Rear Axle Pinion Height Setting Gauge
MST 583 Dummy Bearing
MST
0502CAA0012S Pinion Oil Seal Removal Tool
T
MST 205 Differential Housing Expander
Steering System
Table of Content
Description……………………………………………………........................................…………….
Trouble Shooting……………………………………......................................……………………..
Care of the System…..……..……………………......................................………………………
In Car Repair………………………………………………….........................................……………
Dismantling and Overhauling……………………………………………….………..….………..……
Inspection of the Components……………………………………………………....…………….……
Assembly Procedure...…………………………………………..…………………...…………………….
Technical Specifications…..………………………………...................................………………
Torque Specification…………………………………...................................……………………..
Sealant Specification………………………..........................................…………………………
List of Special Tools (MST).…..………………….....................................………………………
Description
Steering System - Schematic The power steering system is a rack and
pinion type. The engine driven hydraulic
–pump supplies oil to a control valve
situated in housing that supports the
pinion shaft. Movement, imparted to the
control valve from the shaft in the
steering column is via a torsion bar. This
sensing bar moves the control valve,
which in turn directs the oil to one side
or the other side of the ram piston inside
the steering rack.
The control valve is a rotary type spool

valve controlled by the torsion bar
interposed between the steering shaft
and pinion of the steering box. The spool
valve is a shaft with six flutes and a
sleeve, which has six internal axial
grooves, encases this. Radial ports in the
sleeve and shaft pass the oil from the
supply to the lines connected to the ram
chamber.
A series of the splines between the shaft and the sleeve limit the twist of the torsion bar to about 7
degrees in each direction; below this angle the torque applied by the driver to the steering box is
transmitted by the torsion bar. This fail-safe feature provides a mechanical drive from the steering shaft
to the pinion in the event of any power system failure.
The amount of the twist of the torsion bar and the movement of the spool valve is proportional to the
effort applied by the driver. Initial power steering assistance is obtained at about 0.5 degrees deflection
of the bar and this power rises progressively as the bar moves to about 4 degrees; the point o maximum
assistance.
When the wheel is in straight-ahead position, all the ports are open so oil is allowed to flow through the
valve and return to the reservoir.
As soon as the wheel is turned, the torsion bar is deflected; this allows the spool valve to rotate relative
to the sleeve, cutting off the oil flow both to the reservoir and one side of the ram. At the same time the
other side of the ram is subjected to oil pressure, which builds up sufficiently to move the road wheel
and return the torsion bar to no – torque position. During this stage the oil displaced from the
uncompressed side of the ram is returned to the reservoir.
On occasion when the resistance to road wheel movement is excessive, the oil pressures build up to its
maximum. At this pressure a relief valve fitted inside the pump opens and allows the oil to return to
pump inlet.
Trouble Shooting
The rack and pinion design is a simple design. However it is still susceptible to various problems in
particular to leaks. If the bellows are ripped or are unable to keep the contaminant’s away then it can
cause damage to oil seal and subsequent leaks.
One complaint, which can be present, is that the steering may be stiff and jerky when the unit is cold and
as the vehicle is driven/ warmed the power assist gradually comes back. It normally indicates that
grooves worn into the bore of the pinion aluminum housing by hard control valve seals.
Wear in the centre housing causes the fluid to leak around the rack piston causing either steering wander
or lack of straight-ahead stability. Another cause of steering wander and erratic control often
accompanied by clumping, thumping noise is the deterioration of rack mounting bushings.
Fluid levels can be hard to locate. Sometimes you will see a low level in the pump reservoir but no
evidence of escaping liquid. Squeeze the bellows and you will probably find that they are full of liquid. To
confirm if that side of the rack is the culprit, then remove the both the bellows, clean the rack housing
and then operate the system to observe the seepage directly.
It should be mentioned that a rusty input shaft U joint or deteriorated flexible textile/rubber coupling
could imitate rack problems.
After attending to the repairs it critical that the system to be flushed completely. Disconnect the return
line from the pump and put in a container, then disable the injection (remove the wire from the shut off
solenoid) and crank the engine. Add fresh fluid until you get a clear flow from the line. Take care that the
reservoir does not run dry during the flushing. Failure to do so will result in premature failure of the
repaired unit.)
The possible causes for the power steering complaints are tabulated below:

Problem Possible Causes Corrections
Objectionable Hiss • Noisy relief valve in There is some noise in all the power
hydraulic pump. Steering steering system. One of the most
gear noise valve noise is common is a hissing sound most
transmitted through the evident at stand still parking. Hiss is
steering column or open-air a high frequency noise that is
passages in the area where present in every valve and results
the column or controls pass from high velocity fluid passing valve
through the floor into the orifice edges. There is no
engine compartment. relationship between this noise and
the steering gear performance. DO
not replace the intermediate shaft
or the steering gear unless the noise
is too objectionable. Check the
dashboard seals between the drivers
area and under hood to eliminate
open space/ gaps.
Rattle or chuckle noise in • Gear loose on frame.  Check the gear mounting bolts.
Steering Gear • Steering linkage looseness.  Torque the bolts to
• Pressure hose touching specifications.
other parts of the vehicle.  Check the IBJ and OBH for wear.
• Loose IBJ or OBJ
• Improper over centre-  Adjust the hose position.
clearance. A slight rattle  Do not bend the tubing by hand.
may occur on turns because  Replace, if required.
of increased clearance off  Adjust to specification
the high point. This is
normal and clearance must
not be reduced below
specified limits to eliminate
this slight rattle.
Excessive wheel Kick Back • Air in the steering.  Add oil to the pump reservoir
or Loose Steering and bleed.
• Steering Gear Mounting  Tighten attaching bolts to the
loose. specified torque.
• Front wheel Bearings  Replace loose parts.
Incorrectly adjusted or
worn.  Adjust the wheel bearings or
• Steering Gear Improperly replace as required.
adjusted.  Adjust to specifications
• Damaged or worn steering  Dismantle and assemble the
Gear. steering gear as specified.
• Worn or damaged rubber  Replace the rubber bushings.
bushing for mounting
steering gear
Vehicle leads to one side or • Front end misaligned.  Adjust to specifications.
the Other (keep in mind the  Replace the gear Valve.
road condition and wind • Unbalanced steering gear
conditions.) Test the vehicle valve. If this is the cause
, Going in Both directions , steering effort will vary light
On a Flat road in direction of lead and

heavy in opposite direction.  Align the column.
• Steering shaft rubbing with
the ID of the shaft tube
• Steering linkage not level.  Adjust as required.
Momentary Increase in • Low oil level in Reservoir.  Add steering fluid as required.
steering Effort When • Pump Belt slipping.  Tighten or replace belt.
Turning the Wheel Quickly • High Internal leakage’s  Refer to pump test.
To the Right or Left ( Steering Gear or Pump)
Poor return of Steering • Tyres under inflated.  Inflate to specified pressure.
• Lower coupling flange  Loosen the pinch bolt and
against the steering gear assemble.
adjuster
• Steering wheel rubbing  Adjust the steering column.
against directional signal
housing.
• Tight or seized steering shaft  Replace the bearings.
bushing/bearings.  Relubricate/ replace the joints.
• Steering joint or linkage
binding.  Align the steering column.
• Steering column misaligned.
• Lack of lubrication in the  Relubricate/ replace the ball
suspension ball. joints.
• Improper front end  Check & adjust to specifications.
alignment.
• Steering gear adjusted too
tight.  Adjust the preload.
• Kink in return hose.  Replace the hose.
Steering wheel Surges or • Low oil level in Pump.  Add fluid as required.
Jerks when Turning with • Loose pump belt.  Adjust tension as per
engine running, especially specification.
during Parking. • Sticky flow control valve.  Clean the control valve or
replace the pump.
• Insufficient pump pressure  Refer to the power steering
System Test.
Hard steering effort in both • Low tyre pressures  Adjust the tyre pressure.
the directions • Lack of lubrication is  Lubricate & re-lubricate at
suspension or ball joint. proper intervals.
• Steering gear to column  Align the steering column.
misalignment.  Tighten or replace belt.
• Pump belt slipping.  Fill to proper level and inspect
for leaks.
• High internal leakage.  Refer to pump Pressure test.
• Sticky flow control valve.  Replace or clean the valve.
• Lower coupling flange  Loosen the pinch bolt and
rubbing against steering assemble correctly.
gear.  Adjust the preload in Straight-
• Steering gear preload high. ahead position.
• Improper front end  Check & adjust to specifications.
alignment
Foaming Milky Looking • Air in the fluid and loss of  Check for leak & correct. Bleed
Power Steering Fluid. Low fluid due to internal pump the system. Extremely cold
Level and Possible low leakage causing overflow temperature will cause aeration
pressure problems if the oil level is low. If

oil level is correct and the pump
still foams then check for the air
leakage caused by loose joint
Low oil Pressure due to • Check for kinks in the hose.  Remove the kinks/ replace hose
Restriction in the Hose  Remove the foreign objet or
• Foreign objects stuck in the replace the hose.
hose.
Chirp Noise in Steering Gear • Pump belt slipping  Tighten or replace Belt
Belt squeal ( Particularly • Pump belt slipping  Tighten or replace Belt
noticeable at Full wheel
Travel & Standstill Parking)
Growl noise in Steering • Scored pressure plate,  Replace Pump.
Pump thrust plate or rotor
• Extreme Wear of cam ring  Replace Pump.
Growl noise in Steering • Low oil level  Add the power steering fluid.
Pump • Air in the oil. Poor pressure  Bleed the system.
hose connection.
Rattle or knock noise in • Vanes sticking in rotor slot  Replace pump, flush system.
steering Pump • Pressure hose touching  Adjust hose position.
other parts of the Vehicle.
Swish Noise in stg Pump • Faulty flow control valve  Replace pump.
Whine Noise In Stg Pump • Pump shaft bearing scored  Replace pump.
Low oil Pressure Due to • Flow control valve stuck or  Replace pump.
Steering pump inoperative
• Pressure plate not flat  Replace pump.
against the cam ring.
• Extreme wear of the cam  Replace pump, flush system.
ring.
• Air in oil.  Locate source of leak & correct.
Bleed the system.
• Low oil level  Add power steering fluid as
required.
• Pump belt slipping  Tighten or replace belt as
required
• Damaged hoses or steering  Replace as necessary.
gear
Care of the system

The lubricant level should be checked every 10000 Kms with the vehicle unladen and in a level ground.
The lubricant level should be between the maximum and minimum mark. The fluid level should be
checked with the engine in off condition. If the oil level is excess it will tend to come out from the filler
cap in use lubricant meeting oils specification of ATF (Automatic Transmission Fluid. The brand names
have been specified in the Operators Manual and also in the end of the Section.
This section also includes of –
• Power Steering Fluid – Level and Leak - Check
• Power Steering Pump Drive Belt Check
• Power Steering Pump Drive Belt Replace
• Power Steering Fluid – Level and Leak - Check

•
Power Steering Fluid – SPIRAX S3 ATF MD3
Capacity: 0.8 Lit.
1 Power Steering Fluid – Level Check Schematic
Leak Check Points
POWER STEERING FLUID – LEVEL/ LEAK - CHECK

Refer illustration shown above.
1. Check the steering oil level in the reservoir [1] – it should be between MAX and MIN marks. If
below MIN, top it up with recommended oil.
2. Check hose joints for oil leakage / seepage at –
 Reservoir
 Power Steering Pump
 Rack & Pinion – Pipe ends & boots.
 Brand Specific and no other brand fluid should be used.

 Inspect at every 10000kms.
• Power Steering Pump Drive Belt Check

(Power Steering Drive Belt)
Power Steering Drive Belt – Schematic Layout
POWER STEERING DRIVE BELT TO BE INSPECTED FOR – Refer illustration.
1. Cracking
2. Chunk-out
• Cracking – Small, yet visible cracks along the length of a rib or across the belt groove.
• Chunk Out – Pieces or chunks of rubber material have broken off from the belt. When
chunk-out has occurred, a belt can fall at any moment.
 Accessory drive belts to be inspected first at 5000kms, 15000kms and then at

every 10000kms. Replace belt first at 45000 kms & then at every 30000 kms.
 Check belt tension at the point shown as green dot in above illustration.
• Accessory Drive Belt – Replace

(Power Steering Drive Belt)
Power Steering Drive Belt – Schematic Layout
POWER STEERING DRIVE BELT – REPLACE

1. Remove Fan, shroud and NVH cover.
2. Remove Water pump-Alternator drive belt. (Refer SOP)
3. Remove AC Compressor drive belt. (Refer SOP)
4. Loosen the nut on the Steering Pump stay bracket.
5. Move Steering Pump assembly towards engine to loosen the belt tension.
6. Take out the Power Steering Pump drive belt.
 Assembly procedure is reverse to the removal of drive belt.
 Check and adjust Water Pump-Alternator drive belt tension.
 Check and adjust AC Compressor drive belt tension.
 Check and adjust Steering Pump drive belt tension.
 Accessory drive belts to be inspected first at 5000kms, 15000kms and then at

every 10000kms. Replace belt first at 45000 kms & then at every 30000 kms.
 Check belt tension at the point shown as green dot in above illustration.
In Car repair
The following repairs can be carried out without removing the assemblies.
• Removal of Outer Ball Joint & Tie Rod
• Greasing of the OBJ (In case the rubber gaiter is torn.)
• Removal & Refitting of Intermediate Shaft
• Removal & Refitting of the Steering Wheel
• Removal of Steering Gear Rack Assembly
• Power Steering Pump Removal
• Checking of Steering Play.
• Steering Wheel - Centralize
• Bleeding the system.
• Working of Power Steering Pump.
• Removal of Outer Ball Joint & Tie Rod
• Drive and position vehicle in the two post lift.

• Loosen the wheel nuts. Lift up the vehicle and remove the front wheels.
• Position the pads of two post lift underneath the vehicle, so that they are seated at the
intended jacking location and then raise the vehicle. (Refer “Wheels & Tyre” section for
jacking locations of the vehicle)
• Remove the front wheel nuts and then wheels from the vehicle.
Improper jacking could lead to vehicle slippage and cause damage to the vehicle and person.
• Tie-rod end lock nut is secured by a split pin.

Using a steep nose plier, press the tail end
of the split pin. Remove the split pin from its
position.
• Using a 17 mm socket and wrench set,

loosen (counter clockwise) the tie-rod end
lock nut and remove.
• Install the special tool (MST-562) by pushing

its edge between tie-rod end and knuckle
assembly. Rotate the special tool bolt in
clockwise direction such that it pushes the
tie-rod end out of the knuckle assembly.
• Slacken the track rod end lock nut.
• Remove the castel nut split pin and remove the castel nut.
• Remove the track rod end using the special tool.
• Remove the track rod end. While removing the track rod end, make a note of the number of tuns
required to remove the end.
• Insert the tie-rod end into the knuckle

assembly and then gently tap it with a mallet
till it is inserted fully.
• Using a 17 mm socket and wrench set, tighten

(clock-wise) the tie-rod end lock nut to the
torque of . Insert and push the split pin
through the hole in the lock nut. Using a steep
nose plier, pull and split tail end of the pin.
• While fitting back the end or fitting a new end turn it back the same number of threads.
Improper installation and usage of the special tool could damage rubber boot of the tie-rod end.
• Greasing of the OBJ (In case the rubber gaiter is torn)
• Refer above procedure for Removal of Outer ball joint.
• After removal of the track rod end -
• Remove the circlip
• Fill the joint with about 10 grams of grease
• Fit a new gaiter and put the lock
• Removal of Intermediate Shaft
• Using a thin bladed short screw driver, remove covering caps of the lower panel lock screws
• Using a Phillips screw driver, loosen (counter clock-wise) the lock screws and remove. Remove the
lower panel from its position.
Using a 12 mm socket and wrench set, loosen

(counter clock-wise) the intermediate shaft
coupling bolt from the steering column and
remove.

(counter clock-wise) the intermediate shaft
yoke coupling bolt. Separate the
intermediate shaft yoke from the steering
gear assembly.
After installation, turn the steering wheel to check its free and smooth movement. When turned lock to
lock from home position, number of turns on either side should be same. When the road wheels in
straight ahead position, steering wheel should be in home position. Repeat the removal and installation
of the steering wheel to bring it in home position, when the road wheels are in straight ahead position.
• Removal & Refitting of the Steering Wheel
• Keep the road wheels in straight ahead position and lock the steering wheels (remove the
ignition key from key barrel).

the (counter-clock wise) steering wheel lock
nut and remove.
Install the steering wheel puller special tool (MST-547) on the steering wheel base plate.
Locate both the bolts of the special tool in the

holes of the steering wheel base plate. Using a
17 mm socket and spanner set, tighten
(MUC0055, clock wise) the bolts with steering
wheel base plate.
Using a 22 mm socket and wrench set, tighten (MUC0055, clock wise) the center long bolt of the
special tool. Tightening continuously, will bring the steering wheel from steering column shaft.
• Installation –
Install the steering wheel on the steering column shaft.
Tighten the lock nut by hand. Using a 17 mm

socket and wrench set, tighten (clock-wise) the
nut to the torque of 40~54 Nm.
Install the driver side steering wheel cover pad.
• Removal & Refitting of Steering Gear Rack
FLUSHING THE POWER STEERING FLUID -

• Drain and flush the PS fluid from the system. (Refer procedure “Power steering fluid
flushing” in this section for instructions)
Avoid spillage of PS fluid on other components. Wipe off immediately, if any spillage is
noticed.
Adequately cover the power steering reservoir and lines from the entry of any foreign
material/dust.
REMOVAL OF POWER STEERING PRESSURE LINE -

• Remove the Power Steering pressure line hose from the vehicle.
NOTE
Plug the inlet and outlet hole of the PAS rack to avoid entry of any foreign particle. Plug both
the ends of the PAS pressure line hose to avoid entry of any foreign particles.
REMOVAL OF TIE-ROD END -

Remove both the tie-rod ends. (Refer procedure “Tie-rod end” in this section for
instructions)
REMOVAL OF STEERING GEAR ASSEMBLY -
Using a 17 mm socket and wrench set,

loosen (counter clock-wise) the
intermediate shaft yoke coupling bolt.
Separate the intermediate shaft yoke from
the steering gear assembly.
Using a 20 mm socket and wrench set, loosen ( counter clock-wise) the steering gear
assembly mounting bolt lock nuts from the chassis cross-member. Remove the rack
assembly from its position.
INSTALLATION OF STEERING GEAR ASSEMBLY -
Install the PAS gear assembly on the chassis cross member. Using a 20 mm socket and
wrench set, tighten (clock-wise) the lock nuts.
Insert the intermediate shaft yoke over the

steering gear input shaft. Using 17 mm
socket and wrench set, tighten( clock-wise)
the intermediate shaft yoke coupling bolt
to the torque of 19~25 Nm.
INSTALLATION OF TIE-ROD END

Install both the tie-rod ends. (Refer procedure “Tie-rod end” in this section for instructions)
INSTALLATION OF POWER STEERING PRESSURE LINE
Install one end of PS pressure line in the steering gear and the other end of the PS pressure
line in the pump.
Install the inlet tube and outlet tube of the fluid lines in the intended ports of the steering
gear. Interchanging lines will damage the PS gear and pump.
FILLING OF POWER STEERING FLUID
Fill the power steering fluid (PS) in its reservoir. Check the level from the dip tube to ensure
that it is up to the “MAX” mark.
Check for Steering wheel centralization, correct if required.

Do the Toe-in check, correct if required.
- Toe-in recommended values for Genio is 0 to 1 mm ( 0 to 13’)
Never reuse the Power Steering fluid, if the same is found to be contaminated.
• Power Steering Pump Removal
1. Drain the power steering fluid (PS). For additional information refer to Power Steering System
Flushing section.
2. Remove the Accessory Drive belt. For additional information refer to Accessory Drive Belt -
Charging System removal and installation section.
Avoid spillage of PS fluid on other components. Wipe off immediately, if any spillage is noticed.
Adequately cover the power steering reservoir and hoses from any foreign material/ dust.
3. Using a suitable plier, remove the hose clip

(A) and release the inlet hose (B) from the
PS pump (C).
4. Using a 0.67”(17mm) open end spanner,

remove the power steering outlet line (A)
from the pump assembly (B).
Plug the steering pump inlet and return hose oil passage with dust cap to avoid any foreign particles
entry.
5. Using a 0.47” (12mm) socket and wrench
set; remove the power steering pump (B)

mounting lock nuts (A).
6. Remove the power steering pump

assembly.
Inspection
1. Check steering pump for any damage or cracks. Replace the pump if necessary.
2. Check the power steering fluid for any contamination. Do not reuse the fluid if it is
contaminated.
Installation

3. Fill and bleed the power steering system. For additional information refer to General
Procedure section.
• Checking for Steering Play
After driving the vehicle in a straight road, check

the wheel spokes for angular play.
If more than 25 to 30 degrees then check -Tie-

25/30 rod end ball joint or steering gear inner ball joint
degrees or
Lower arm ball joint or universal joint.
Replace the defective part/parts.
While checking ensure that the engine is in off condition and wheels are in Straight Ahead Position
(SAP position)
• Steering Wheel - Centralize
This procedure for centralizing the Steering wheel is valid only if the misalignment of the spokes is
less than 30 degrees. In other words this procedure is only for fine-tuning the steering wheel
position not for gross error. If it is more 30 degrees then remove the steering wheel and initially
realign to less than 30 degrees.
To check for the centralization of the steering wheel. Drive the vehicle on a level road surface; note
the angular position (misalignment of the steering wheel spokes.
Lift up the vehicle on certified hoist.
Mark the position of the track rods and the track rod
ends
Slacken the track rod end lock nuts and also remove
the gaiter outer retaining clips.
Rotate both track rods in the same direction

approximately 30 degrees for every 1-degree of
steering misalignment error.
If the steering wheel has an anticlockwise angular error

then both track rods must be rotated clockwise- when
viewed from the left – hand side of the vehicle
• If the steering wheel has clockwise angular error then both track rods must be rotated
anticlockwise- when viewed from the left – hand side of the vehicle.
Bleeding the system
• Before starting the Bleeding operation, ensure that the Vehicle is on level ground, and the
reservoir is filled to the maximum specified level.
• As with any hydraulic system ensure that the recommended fluids only is used. Ensure that no
dirt enters the system while topping up. Before opening the reservoir cap, wipe the area with a
cotton cloth and open the cap.
• Ensure that the front wheels are jacked up and wheels are lightly touching the ground.
• If this is not done then the steering linkage and components will be under undue stress.
• Even with the wheels partly jacked up; do not hold the steering in fully locked position for
more than 10 second. Failure to do so may damage the pump beyond repairs.
• Start the engine.
• Rotate the steering wheel from lock to lock; 3 to 4 times.
• Check if the oil in the reservoir has dropped down drastically- if so check for any leaks.
• Check if any foaming/ frothing are taking place.
• Repeat the rotation from lock to lock till the foaming subsides
• If the foaming is not subsiding after ¾ of the above cycle, check for the tightness of the hoses in
particular the reservoir to the steering pump and later the steering gear to reservoir. The loose
connection in these pipes will allow air to suck into the system.
• After completing the bleeding operation, ensure that with the engine running the oil level is
between the maximum and minimum mark.
• Close the reservoir cap properly.
• Working principle of the Steering Pump
The steering pump is non-serviceable. Hence it cannot be repaired.
The pump is a constant flow, vane type incorporating a flow control valve (with an integrated relief
valve) and it is gear driven by engine. The power steering pump consists of housing, drive shaft, cartridge
assembly & bearing(s) apart from the valve.
As the pump rotates a vacuum is created at the inlet, which causes atmospheric pressure to force the
fluid in to pump from the reservoir. As the rotor rotates, the inlet port closes and the fluid is trapped
between the vans. Further movement forces the fluid to be pressurized as the profile of the cam ring
constantly reduces the available volume. At the minimum point of the profile the chamber opens into
the outlet port.
The rotor is having 10 vanes, thus each rotation is equal to 5 pumping action. The discharge rate of the
power steering pump increases in proportion to the pump speed increases.. The flow control valve is
provided to maintain the optimum flow of the supplied oil for power steering operation, at all engine
speeds. The relief pressure will open when the system pressure exceeds the set value. This normally
happens when the steering wheel is turned and held in the lock position.
Refer below illustration for Steering Pump and its drive belt -
STEERING SYSTEM :
Type (Manual / Power assisted – Hydraulic / Power Assisted, Rack & Pinion
Power assisted – Electric / Other)
Steering wheel
Position(center/offset) Offset
Outside dia mm 395mm Opt:-391mm
Number of spokes 4
Steering Column Make/ Type Rane Madras Ltd; / Tilt & collapsible Type
Intermediate shaft
Rane Madras Ltd., Sterling Industries, Shareen
Make Auto Pvt. Ltd.
Type / Model Collapsible

Maximum No. of rotation of steering wheel from 3.3
lock to lock
Offset of the steering column with respect to the 50.0 mm to left of Seat centre line
seat
Steering Gear
Type of steering gear ( Recirculating ball / Warm Rack & Pinion Type
& Roller / Rack & Pinion / Others)
Make RANE TRW STEERING SYS LTD
Steering gear ratio 18:1
Wheel lock angle(deg) Inner Outer
Left 37 39
Right 34 36
Power Assistance YES
Type of assistance HYDRAULIC
Make RANE TRW STEERING SYS LTD
Oil Specification SPIRAX S3 ATF MD3
Oil capacity (l) 750 ml
Pressure setting, kg/cm2 / bar / kPa 75 bar
Min turning circle diameter (mm) 12300
Min. turning circle clearance diameter (mm) 12600
Minimum road clearance (mm)at differential 200
Approach angle (deg) 24
Departure angle (deg) 21
Ramp-over angle (deg) 20.5
Description Torque Value Nm (lbf-ft)

Steering Gear Centre Bolt 120 ±10 Nm (88 ± 7 lb-ft)
C Clamp side mounting 85 + 13Nm(62 lb-ft)
Casting side bolt 85 + 13Nm(62 lb-ft)
OBJ- tie rod end 80 + 10Nm(59 lb-ft)
Upper column top mounting 22 + 3Nm(16 lb-ft)
Upper column bottom mounting 22 + 3Nm(16 lb-ft)
Column grommet 22 + 3Nm(16 lb-ft)
Lower I shaft mounting on gear 22 + 3Nm(16 lb-ft)
Connector mounting on upper I shaft 22 + 3Nm(16 lb-ft)
Steering pressure hose 25 + 3Nm(18 lb-ft)
Steering return hose 25 + 3Nm(18 lb-ft)
Hose clamp on pump 22 + 3Nm(16 lb-ft)
Hose clamp on gear 13 + 2Nm(9 lb-ft)
Steering wheel nut 47 + 7Nm(34 lb-ft)
Steering column and ignition lock sub-assembly 14 + 1Nm(10 lb-ft)
Fitment of steering arm to knuckle LH/RH 80 + 10Nm(59 lb-ft)
Lubricants Specification
 The recommended brand names are: SPIRAX S3 ATF MD3
 Capacity is 0.8 lts.
List of Special Tools (MST)

MST – 547
Steering wheel puller
MST – 548
Steering stand
MST – 549
Tie rod end remover
MST – 550
Socket steering pump Nut
MST – 551
Unit wrench –12 mm
MST – 552
Spanner power Steering Lock nut
MST – 560
Installer oil seal Power steering.
MST – 553
Drift pinion assembly
MST – 554
Rack stopper wrench
MST – 555
Installer power Steering Oil End Cap
MST – 556
Driver needle bearing
MST – 557
Driver bearing rack Housing
MST – 558
Installer oil seal-Steering
Front Suspension (2WD/ 4WD)
Table of Content
Description……………………………………………………………………….…….……………..........
In Car Repair………..………………………………………………………………...........................
Technical Specification…………………….…………………………………………………………….
Torque Specification.………....………….………………………………..…………………………….
List of Special Tools(MST).....………….………………………………..…………………………….
Front Suspension - DescripƟon

Front Suspension (4WD) – SchemaƟc
A. Knuckle B. Shock Absorber C. Torsion Bar

D. Stabilizer Bar E. Stabilizer Bar Link Rod F. Lower Control Arm
G. Upper Control Arm
DescripƟon and OperaƟon

The front suspension is a double independent suspension which is designed to allow each wheel to
independently adapt dŝīerent road surfaces. This type of suspension uses two parallel arms. Each arm
has two mounƟng posiƟons to the chassis and one ball joint aƩachment at the wheel knuckle. The
shock absorber mounted on the lower arm that controls the verƟcal movement of the vehicle. A
stabilizer bar and links are included to control s u s p e n s i o n l e a n /sway d u r i n g t u r n s . The lower
arm and upper arm are connected to each other via the knuckle assembly via the respecƟve joints. The
rubber bush is between the two rigid parts, and is elasƟcally deformable. A double-arm design controls
motion of the wheel throughout suspension travel, controlling parameters such as camber angle, caster
angle and toe.
Refer below schemaƟcs for Front Suspension in 2WD & 4WD vehicle.
FRONT SUSPENSION – 2WD FRONT SUSPENSION – 4WD
For SCDC, Torsion bar suspension is applicable for both 2WD & 4WD models.
SUV/SC/DC E-V March 2012/Rev1
Upper Control Arm

One end of the upper arm is connected to the
frame and other end is connected to the knuckle.
A bushing or rubber bushing is a type of vibration
isolator. It provides an interface between two
parts, damping the energy transmitted through
the bushing. Bushing made of rubber separates
the faces of two metal objects while allowing a
certain amount of movement. This movement
allows the suspension parts to move freely.
The main advantage of a wish bone bushing is

noiseless and vibrations are transmitted. Another
advantage is that they require little to no
lubrication.
Lower Control Arm

The lower arm is part of the double front
suspension. It is also called as Lower Control Arm
(LCA). It is mounted on to the chassis and has a
stabilizer bar link bracket with a torque control
arm mounted on it.
The function of the lower arm is to control the
motion of the wheels in relation to the body of the
vehicle. It acts as a support for the wheel
assembly by connecting with the knuckle and the
upper arm. It is mounted to the chassis frame via
the bush which provides smooth up and down
movement. The bushes also help in absorbing road
shock.
Torsion Bar (4WD)

Torsion bar is part of the front suspension system.
It is a cylindrical rod with serrated ends and acts as
a spring. This is made of spring steel.
Two torsion bars are horizontally mounted along
the chassis frame on both sides; one end
connected to each side of the lower control arm
and the other end is connected to chassis. The
main function of the torsion bar is to support the
vehicle for comfortable ride. It prevents the shocks
generated by uneven roads from being transferred
A. Torsion Bar RH to the passenger block of the vehicle. Both the
B. Torsion Bar LH torsion bars are different and are clearly
differentiated by the direction and the LH, RH
painted on the respective torsion bar. The arrow
painted on the torsion bar always points to the
front of the vehicle facilitating easy mounting on
the vehicle. Ride height of the vehicle is also

controlled by the torsion bar.
Front Stabilizer Bar

The stabilizer bar is mounted to the chassis
frame with the help of rubber bush and mounting
bolts. It connects the opposite wheels together
through short link rods on both sides that are
mounted on the lower control arm.
Stabilizer bar is known as anti-roll bar or anti-
sway bar. The main function of the stabilizer bar
is to keep the vehicle stable by keeping the
wheels of the vehicle on the ground during vehicle
roll around sharp corners. The stabilizer bar
A. Stabilizer Bar
B. Stabilizer Bar bush
operates on the principle of Torsion/Twisting.
Front Shock Absorber

The Shock absorber is gas filled telescopic type. It is
mounted to the lower control arm and at the
other end is connected to vehicle chassis frame
with the help of securing bolts.
Shock absorber is known as damper in technical
terms. The function of the shock absorber is to
slow down and reduce the magnitude of vibratory
motions by turning the kinetic energy of
suspension movement into heat energy that is
dissipated through gas or fluid.
Wheel Hub For

4WD Vehicles
The wheel hub is mounted on the knuckle. All the
components of the wheel are bolted to it. It also
houses the wheel bearing. In case of a 2WD
vehicle, there is no wheel hub.
Knuckle
The knuckle holds the suspension components in place. In case of a 4WD vehicle, the control arms
and the drive shaft are connected to it, while the same is absent in case of a 2WD vehicle. It is one of
the critical components of the wheel alignment.
Trouble Shooting

2. Visually inspect for any noticeable signs of mechanical damage of the front suspension parts.
3. If an obvious cause is found during the inspection, correct the same before proceeding to the
next step.
4. Road test.
- Verify the complaint by carrying out a road test on a good road. If any abnormal noise is
observed, refer to trouble shooting chart – noise vibration harness (NVH) to rectify the
problem.
5. Inspection of the tyres.
- Check the tyre pressure with normal vehicle load and also with tyres in cold condition.
- Ensure that the tyre pressure is as per specification.
- Verify that all the tyres sizes are as per specification. For additional information refer to
Technical Specification section.
- Inspect the tyres for abnormal wear and damage.
6. Inspect the chassis and the under body for any damage.
7. Check and remove any excessive accumulation of dirt or road deposits on the chassis and
underbody.
Visual Inspection
 Check the front suspension components for any looseness or damage.
 Check for any loose, damaged or missing fasteners of the front suspension system.
 Check the shock absorbers for any damage or leakage.
 Visually check the front suspension bushes for damage.
 If the cause is not visually evident, verify the symptom and refer to trouble shooting chart.
1. Unevenly loaded or over 1. Notify the customer about

loaded vehicle. correct vehicle loading.
2. Incorrect tyre pressure. 2. Check the tyre pressure.
3. Wheel alignment is out of 3. Adjust the alignment as per the
specification. specification.
4. Brake drag. 4. Inspect and adjust the brake.
For additional information refer
to General Procedure of Rear
Sus- pension.
Vehicle drifts or pulls to one 5. Damaged steering compo- 5. Inspect the steering
side. nents. components. For additional
information refer to
Diagnosis and Testing section of
6. Front shock absorber weak Steering Sys- tem.
on one side. 6. Check and replace the defective
7. Improper ride height shock absorber.
adjustment. 7. Adjust the front ride height as
8. Deformed torsion bars. per recommended procedure.
8. Check and replace the
torsion bars if necessary
1. Worn out front wheel 1. Check and replace the front
bearings. wheel bearing.
2. Damaged or bent 2. Check and replace the front
front wheel wheel knuckle if necessary.
knuckle. 3. Check and replace the front
3. Damaged or bent front lower control arm if necessary.
lower control arm. 4. Check and replace the front
Front tyres Incorrect or 4. Damaged or bent upper control arm if necessary.
abnormal tyre wear front upper 5. Check and replace the steering
control arm. inner ball joint and adjust wheel
5. Damaged or bent steering alignment.
inner ball joint. 6. Check and adjust the ride height.
6. Ride height incorrect.
7. Incorrect vehicle alignment 7. Check the vehicle alignment and
correct if necessary.
8. Wrong tyres / defective For additional information refer to
tyres. Diagnostics and Testing section of
Wheels and Tyres section.
1. Over, unevenly or incorrectly 1. Notify the customer of

loaded vehicle. correct vehicle loading.
2. Loose wheel nuts. 2. Tighten the wheel nuts to
required- specification.
3. Leakage in front shock 3. Inspect the shock
Sway or roll absorbers. absorbers.
Renew shock absorbers if
4. Loose or worn stabilizer bar
necessary.
links or bushings.
4. Inspect the stabilizer bar
For additional information refer to assemblies. Tighten to
Diagnosis and Testing section of specification or renew
Brake system. stabilizer bar components if
1. Front stabilizer bar insulator 1. Replace the stabilizer bar
(bushes) deteriorated. insulator (bushes) if
2. Worn or damaged lower necessary.
control arm bush. 2. Replace the bushes if
3. Front shock absorber defor- necessary.
mation or deflection.
3. Check and replace the
4. Adjacent parts to the sus-
defective shock absorber.
Squeak noise from the pension system causing in-
front suspension. terference. 4. Check and adjust as
necessary.
5. Improper installation or
loose suspension parts.
5. Check and adjust as
6. Worn out lower control arm necessary.
(LCA) rear bush (chassis bush).
7. Worn out upper control arm 6. Replace the bushes if
(UCA) bushes. necessary.
8. UCA and LCA ball joint boot
cut.
7. Replace the bushes if
necessary.
8. Replace the ball joint if

necessary.

1. Stabilizer bar link is loose on 1. Tighten the mounting
the lower control arm assembly bolts and nuts to the
or stabilizer bar. specified torque.
2. Damaged threads in stabilizer 2. Replace the stabilizer bar
bar link. link.
3. Damaged stabilizer bar 3. Replace the stabilizer bar
stopper. stopper.
Rattling, knocking noise
from the front side 4. Adjacent parts to the sus-
4. Check and adjust as
pension system causing in- necessary.
terference.
5. Loose suspension mountings. 5. Tighten the suspension
6. Worn out control arm bushes mounting to the specified
and stabilizer bar bush. torque.
7. LCA or UCA ball joint worn out. 6. Replace it if necessary.
7. Replace LCA and UCA ball
joints.
Rough/Harsh ride 1. Defective front shock 1. Replace the shock

absorbers. absorbers if necessary.
2. Over inflated tyres. 2. Check and rectify the tyre
pressure.
1. Loose wheel nuts. 1. Tighten the nuts to
2. Loose front suspension fas- specification.
teners. 2. Tighten the fasteners to
3. Loose or worn front wheel the specification.
bearings. 3. Inspect and replace
Wheel wobble the front wheel
4. Tyres worn or wheels out of
bearings.
balance.
5. Incorrect wheel alignment. 4. Replace the tyres or
balance the wheels.
6. Brake disc run out. 5. Adjust the wheel
alignment to the
specification.
6. Replace disc.
Vehicle leans to one side 1. Incorrect vehicle ride height. 1. Adjust ride height & check.
2. Looseness in LCA joints. 2. Tighten LCA as per
specification
3. Bend/damage in height control 3. Replace the height control
arm (HCA) and its bolts. arm.
4. Torque arm and bolts damages. 4. Replace the torque arm
and its bolts.

Component Inspection
Action
1. Check the Upper control arm ball 1. Replace the ball joints.
joint stud for any damage or wear.
2. Check the Upper control arm ball 2. Tighten as per
joint tightness. specifications or
3. Check the Upper control arm ball replace the Upper
joint play in axial directions or if control arm.
end play is excessive. 3. Replace the ball joint.
Upper Control Arm 4. Check the Upper control arm ball
joint dust cover for any damage. 4. Replace the Upper
5. Check the Upper control arm control arm.
bushes for wear. 5. Replace the Upper
6. Check the upper control arm for bush.
any bend, twist or damage. 6. Replace the Upper
control arm assembly.
1. Check the Lower control arm ball 1. Replace the Lower ball
joint stud for any damage or wear. joint.
joint jam. joint.
joint play in axial directions or if joint.
end play is excessive.
Lower Control Arm joint.
joint dust cover for any damage.
5. Check the Lower control arm 5. Replace the Lower
bushes for wear. bush.
6. Check the Lower control arm for 6. Replace the Lower
any bend, twist or damage. control arm assembly.
Torsion Bar 1. Check the torsion bar for 1. Replace the torsion
deformation or cracks. bar.
Component Inspection A
c
1. Check the stabilizer bar for 1. Replace stabilizer bar.
twist or deformation. Replace if
Stabilizer Bar necessary.
2. Replace stabilizer bar
2. Check the rubber bushing for
bushes.
cracks, wear or deterioration.
Replace if necessary.
1. Check the shock absorbers for 1. Replace the shock

oil leakage, damage and absorber.
deformation.
Shock Absorber 2. press and leave the shock
absorber, check for return 2. Replace the shock
duration. absorber if the duration
is long or erratic.
3. Check the eye bush for
damage.
3 Replace the shock
1. Check for any damage and 1. Replace the
Knuckle Assembly
deformation. knuckle
assembly
1. Check the hub for any 1. Replace the hub.
damage and deformation.
Wheel Hub 4WD 2. Check wheel bearing play. 2. Check and adjust the
bearing play, if the
problem persists then
replace the wheel
bearing.
Component Test
Ball Joint Checking
1. Prior to testing inspect the ball joint for wear, inspect the wheel bearings for any play.
3. Inspect the ball joint and ball joint boot for damage.
4. If the ball joint or ball joint boot is found damaged, renew the ball joint.
5. Inspect the ball joint for relative movement by alternatively pulling the wheel downward and
pushing upward. Observe any relative movement between the wheel knuckle and lower/upper
arm of the ball joint.
6. If relative movement is not observed the ball joint is in good condition.
7. Check the ball joints.
8. Check the looseness of ball joints in LCA/UCA
Do not use any tools or equipment for checking the relative movement of wheels or suspension
components. It may lead to suspension damage. The use of tools or equipment will also create
relative movement that may not exist while using hand force. Relative movement must be
m easured using hand
Force only.
General Information
Wheel Alignment
Wheel alignment involves correct positioning of the wheels in the vehicle. The positioning is
accomplished by suspension and steering linkage adjustments. Wheel alignment is essential for
efficient steering, good directional stability and to minimize tyre wear. The most important
measurements of an alignment are caster, camber, toe-in and toe-out.
Camber
Camber is the inward or outward tilt of the wheel

relative to the center line of the wheel, when
viewed from the front. Tilting the top of the wheel
inward provides negative camber. Tilting the top
of the wheel outward provides positive camber.
Incorrect camber will cause uneven wear on the
inside or outside edge of the tyres. Camber in the
vehicle is adjustable with the help of shims.
Caster
Steering knuckle from vertical position. Tilting the

top of the knuckle forward provides negative
caster. Tilting the top of the knuckle backward
provides positive caster. Positive caster promotes
directional stability. This angle enables the front
wheels to return to a straight ahead position after
turns. The caster on the vehicle is fixed and
cannot be changed at any point.
Toe In & Toe Out

Toe is a measurement of how much the front wheels are turned in or out from a straight-ahead position
viewed from the top. When the wheels are turned in, toe is positive (+). When the wheels are turned
out, toe is negative (-). The actual amount of toe is normally only a fraction of a degree.
Improper toe adjustment will cause premature tyre wear and cause steering instability.
Refer below illustrations.
Toe In (Positive Toe) Toe Out (Negative Toe)
Care of the System

Wheel Alignment Procedure
Check and adjust the tyre pressure and ride height before starting the wheel alignment. Check all
suspension components for damages.
1. Arrange the vehicle for alignment and

proceed to check the alignment as per the
wheel alignment equipment requirements.
2. To adjust toe, loosen the tie rod end nut using

a 0.67” (17mm) spanner.
3. Gently rotate the tie rod using a 0.55”

(14mm) spanner clockwise or anti clockwise
depending on the readings.
4. Once the required reading is achieved

tighten the tie rod end nut as per torque
specification.
5. Repeat the procedure on the other side as

well.
6. To adjust camber loosen both the bolts of

the LH pivot shaft ( on the upper control
arm) using a 0.59” (15mm) socket
7. Remove the shims and insert new shims of

required thickness to adjust the camber as
per the readings.
Shims are available in 3 sizes, 0.032”(0.8mm), 0.064” (1.6mm) and 0.128” (3.2mm). The camber
decreases if thicker shims are added.
8. Once the reading is achieved tighten the

bolts to the specified torque.
9. Castor on the vehicle cannot be adjusted as

it is inbuilt.
• The reading should not vary while tightening the bolts.

• Out of two bolts of the LH pivot shaft (on the upper control arm), the first bolt from front
faces inside while the other bolt head faces outside. The RH side has both the bolts head
facing outside.
Vehicle Ride Height

Ride height is the distance between the lower control arm mounting bolt center to the
level ground in unladen and straight ahead position.
• Before measuring Ride Height ensure that

the vehicle is in Unladen Condition (All
operating fluids should be at the Maximum)
• All front suspension components should be
free of damages and fully torque.
• Place the vehicle on a level ground.
• Check whether the tyre pressure and size is
according to the specifications
1. Tighten the nut on the height control arm till

the bolt comes out by 2.1” (55 mm) from the
surface of the cylindrical seat as shown in the
image below.
2. Tighten the lock nut on the height control

arm bolt as shown in the image below.
3. Now, check the ride height of the vehicle. For
additional information refer to Vehicle Ride
Height Checking Guidelines section.
4. If the vehicle ride height is still not achieved
then remove the height control arm / torsion
bar (RH /LH) and inspect for damages.
Replace the affected components only.
In Car Repairs
Upper Control Arm
Removal
1. Remove the front wheels. For additional
information refer to Wheels of
Rear Suspension.
2. Remove the split pin (A) from the lower
mounting lock nut (B) of the upper arm
ball joint.
3. Using a 0.94”(24mm) open end

spanner, remove the lower mounting lock
nut (A) from the upper arm ball joint (B).
4. Disconnect the wheel speed sensor

connector from the upper arm securing
bracket.

spanner, remove the spring and plain
washer of the upper arm

spanner, remove the pivot shaft lock nuts
7. Remove the upper arm of the from the

vehicle.
8. Using a suitable tool, loosen the mounting

plate (A) of the bump stopper for the upper
control arm.
Inspection
1. Check the upper arm for deformation or cracks. Replace if necessary.
2. Check the ball joint for distortion or damage. Replace if necessary.
Installation
3. Carry out wheel alignment. For additional information refer Wheel Alignment section.
Upper Control Arm Bush - Removal
Care should be taken while working with the upper control arm assembly. Failure to do so will lead to
accidents.
1. Remove the upper arm.
For additional information refer to Upper Control Arm of Front Suspension.
2. Using a suitable tool, remove the bush

(A) from the upper arm.
Installation –
1. To install, reverse the removal

procedure.
2. Tighten all nuts and bolts to
3. Check and do wheel alignment if required
Lower Control Arm - Removal

Pre-Removal Activities –
For additional information refer to Wheels of Rear Suspension.
2. Remove the from the vehicle.
For additional information refer to of Rear Suspension.
3. Remove the 0.74”(19 mm) and 70”(18

mm) link rod mounting nuts from the
stabilizer bar and disconnect the stabilizer
bar link.
4. Using a 0.67”(17mm) socket and

wrench, remove the shock absorber
mounting bolt and nut (A) form the lower
control arm.

arm ball joint lock nut (B).
6. Using a 0.66”(17mm) socket and wrench

set, remove the lower mounting lock nut
(A) of the lower arm ball joint (B).

set, remove the lower arm ball joint top
mounting bolts (A)
8. Using the MST-xxx (A), detach the lower

arm ball joint (B) from the knuckle.

set, remove the lower arm mounting bolt
from the chassis cross member.
10. Loosen the serrated bolt on the lower

control arm rear end and carefully
take out the lower arm from the vehicle.
Inspection
1. Check the lower arm for damage and cracks. Replace if necessary.
The s should not be interchanged. The LHS should be installed on left and RHS should be installed
on the right side only. s are also provided with the markings of LH and RH respectively.
3. Check and adjust the ride height as per the specifications.
In case the Lower arm bump stopper has failed/damaged then it needs to be unscrewed from its
position by tapping in the anti-clock-wise direction.
Lower Arm Bush – Front End

Removal
1. Remove the lower arm. For additional
information refer to Lower Control Arm of
Rear Suspension.
2. Using the MST xxxx, remove the lower
arm bush (A) from the lower control arm.
Installation
2. Tighten all nuts and bolts to the specified
torque.
3. Check and do wheel alignment if required.
Lower Arm Bush – Rear End

Removal
1. Remove t he lower a r m . For additional
information refer to Lower Control Arm of
Rear Suspension.
2. Using MST XXX (A), remove the control arm
bush from (B) the chassis.
Installation
1. Using the MST XXX (A), install the control
arm bush (B) and gradually tighten the MST
lock nut until it seats in proper position.
3. Tighten a l l n u t / b o l t s t o t h e s p e c . trq.
4. Check and do wheel alignment if required.
Torsion Bar (4WD)

Removal
1. Remove the front wheels. For additional information refer to Wheels of Rear Suspension.
2. Remove the 0.74”(19 mm) and 0.70”(18 mm) link rod mounting nuts from the stabilizer bar and
disconnect the stabilizer bar link.
3. Only loosen the lower control arm and upper

control arm pivot points. For additional
information refer to Wishbone Lower Control
Arm of Rear Suspension. For additional
information refer to Wishbone Upper Arm of
Rear Suspension.
Care to be taken while working on torsion bar mountings. Do not cut the bolt to remove the torsion
bars under any circumstances. The nuts are torsion loaded and if not carefully removed may injury or
even death may occur.
remove the primary nut (A) and secondary nut
(B) of the torsion bar height control arm from
chassis cross member.
5. Remove the torsion bar height control arm

locking bolt. Remove the bolt and guide bolt upper.
6. Using a suitable socket and wrench set, loosen

the torsion bar mounting bolts (A) from the lower
arm assembly (B).
7. Using a external circlip plier, remove the circlip

(A) from the Torsion bar (B) at the front end.
8. Using a external circlip plier, remove the circlip

(A) from the height control arm at the rear end.
9. Slide the torsion bar horizontally towards the

rear of the vehicle to separate it from the
lower arm of the wishbone.
10. Slide the torsion bar forward and out of the

height control arm. Remove the torsion bar (A)
and height control arm (B) from the vehicle.
Inspection
1. Check the torsion bar for deformation, twist or
cracks. Replace if necessary.
Installation
1. Using a 0.55”(14mm) socket and wrench set, remove the top mounting nuts of the shock absorber
from the bracket.

remove the lower mounting lock nut (A), washer
spring of the shock absorber (B) from the lower
control arm.
3. Fix the Ride Height Fixture (B) in place of shock

absorber and insert the bolt (A).
By this arrangement LCA will be maintained in

Unladen Condition.
The ride Height fixture should properly match at

the top end as shown in the snap shot shown.
4. Insert a height control arm (A) in the torsion bar

mounting cross-member (B).
The torsion bars should not be interchanged. The LHS torsion bar should be installed on left and RHS
torsion bar should be installed on the right side only. Torsion bars are also provided with the markings
of LH and RH respectively.
The arrow marks the front of the vehicle and the direction in which the torsion bar should be mounted.
5. Adjust the height control arm such that the

marking (A) on it is parallel to the torsion bar
mounting cross member.
Make sure the height control arm adjustment is according to the marking to get the correct ride height
and also the LH and RH torsion bars should be of same type i.e A or B type. care should be taken while
replacing the same since both of them should be the same.
6. Insert Torsion Bar (B) on height control arm with

loosened circlip (A).
7. Insert the height control arm bolt & nuts (A) as

shown in the picture below.
8. Align the Height Control Arm such that the bolt

& nut (A) face are in the same plane. Insert the
torsion bar on torque arm (B) in same position.
While inserting the Torsion Bar on lower arm, care should be taken that the RH side torsion bar is
inserted in RH Side & LH side torsion bar on LH side. For ease of identification RH & LH is marked on
torsion bar.
While Insertion the arrow mark on Torsion Bar should be pointing towards LCA.
9. Insert the torsion bar (B) into the rear end, and
using an external circlip plier, install the circlip
(A).
10.Using a external circlip plier, install the circlip

(A) From the height control arm at the rear end.
11.Using a suitable socket and wrench set tighten

the torsion bar mounting bolts (A) on the lower arm
assembly (B).
12. Tighten the nut on height control arm till the

bolt comes out 2.1”(55 mm) from the surface of half
cylindrical seat. Hold the bolt head with spanner
while tightening the nut to avoid its spinning.
The purpose of adjusting the height of the bolt on the height control arm to 2.1” (55mm) is to bring the
ride height of the vehicle as mentioned in the technical specifications.
13. Tighten the lock nut on the height control arm

bolt.
14. Tighten all the loosened joints (LCA, UCA & stab bar link).
15. Remove the ride height fixture & insert the shock absorber.
16. Install the front wheels. For additional information refer to Wheels of Rear Suspension.
17. Repeat the above mentioned procedure for other side also.
18. This will ensure correct ride height setting 11” +/- 0.6” (285 mm+/- 15 mm).
19. Road Test of the vehicle should be done.
Front Stabilizer Bar

Removal
1. Using a 0.75”(19mm) open end spanner and

0.71” (18mm) socket and wrench set, detach
the link rod (A) (LH & RH) from the stabilizer
bar (B).

remove the stabilizer bar mounting bolts from
chassis cross member
3. Take out the stabilizer bar (A) along with the
mounting clamp and bushes (B).
Inspection
1. Check the stabilizer bar for twist or deformation. Replace if necessary.
2. Check the rubber bushing for cracks, wear or deterioration. Replace if necessary.
Installation
The stabilizer bar links should never be interchanged. Both the bars can be visibly differentiated.
The LH link is painted orange while the RH is painted white. This is applicable to both front and
rear links.
Front Shock Absorber

Removal
1. Remove the front wheels. For additional information refer to Wheels of Rear Suspension.

remove the top mounting nuts of the shock
absorber from the bracket.
3. Remove the washer and bush from the top

Mounting bracket.
These are gas filled shock absorbers. Do not heat any components nearby. The gasses may heat
up and expand and there is danger of exploding. Failure to follow this instruction may cause
personal injury and/or damage to components.

remove the lower mounting lock nut (A),
washer spring of the shock absorber (B) from
the lower control arm.
5. Detach the shock absorber from the vehicle.
Inspection
1. Check the shock absorber for smooth operation through a full stroke, both compression and
extension.
2. Check the shock absorbers oil leakage, damage and deformation. Replace if necessary.
Installation
Do not interchange upper and lower washers of the shock absorber. The lower washer should be
installed with its cup side facing downwards and for the upper washer the cup side is installed
facing upwards.
Wheel Hub
Removal
information refer to Wheels of Rear
Suspension.
2. Remove the front disc caliper assembly.
For additional information refer to Front
Brake Caliper of Rear Suspension.
3. Using a 0.55” (14mm) hexagonal allen key,
loosen the allen bolts (A) and remove the
wheel hub cap (B).
4. Using an external circlip plier, remove the

circlip (A) from the half shaft (B).
5. Remove the spacer from the half shaft.
Never remove the lock nut without using a special tool. Lock nut edges are prone to damage when
general tools are used.
6. Using the MST-xxx, remove the half shaft

secondary lock nut.
7. Using a blunt prick punch, remove the

intermediate lock nut from the half shaft.
8. Using the MST-xxx, remove the half shaft

primary lock nut.
Slippage/dropping of heavy/large objects will cause personal injury.
9. Remove the wheel hub assembly along with

brake disc unit from the half shaft.
10. Remove the bolts (A) and detach the wheel

hub assembly (B) from the brake disc unit.
Inspection
1. Check the wheel hub for any crack, damage and deformation. Replace if necessary.
Installation
Check the bearing play
1. Tighten the primary check nut to 60 Nm and again loosen the same nut by 90 degrees.
2. Mount the wheel to specified torque and check the freeness and play. Then put the lock washer
and align to with the pin on the primary chuck nut.
3. Tighten the check nut to 60 Nm.
4. Tighten all bolts and nuts to the specified torque.
Wheel Bearing - 2WD

Removal
Suspension.
2. Remove the front disc assembly. For
additional information refer to Front Brake
Disc - RH & LH with Toner Ring of Rear
Suspension.
3. Separately detach the wheel bearing from
hub.
Inspection
1. Check the wheel bearing hub for any crack, damage and deformation. Replace if necessary.
Installation
2. Check bearing play and adjust.
Knuckle Assembly
Removal
1. Remove the wheels. For additional information refer to Wheels of Rear Suspension.
2. Remove the front brake caliper assembly. For additional information refer to Front Brake Caliper
of Rear Suspension.
3. Remove the wheel hub assembly (in case of 4WD vehicle). For additional information refer to
Wheel Hub of Rear Suspension.
4. Remove the steering tie rod end from the knuckle. For additional information refer to Tie-Rod End
of Rear Suspension.
5. Remove the split pin (A) from the upper

arm ball joint lower mounting lock nut (B).

remove the lower mounting lock nut (A)
from the upper arm ball joint (B).
7. Using a MST-xxx (A), detach the upper arm

ball joint from the knuckle (B).

arm ball joint lower mounting lock nut (B).

set, remove the lower mounting lock nut
(A) of the lower arm ball joint (B).
10. Using the MST-xxx (A), detach the lower

arm ball joint (B) from the knuckle.
11. Remove knuckle assembly from the front

axle.
Inspection
1. Check knuckle for any cracks, damage and deformation. Renew if necessary.
Installation
Upper Control Arm Ball Joint

Removal
Suspension.
2. Remove the split pin (A) from the upper

arm ball joint lower mounting lock nut
(B).

remove the lower mounting lock nut (A)
from the upper arm ball joint (B).
4. Using a MST-xxx (A), detach the upper

arm ball joint from the knuckle (B).
5. Using a 0.66” (17mm) socket and wrench,

remove the upper arm ball joint
mounting bolts (A) and detach the upper
arm ball joint.
Installation
Lower Control Arm Ball Joint

Removal
Suspension.
2. Remove the split pin (A) from the lower arm

ball joint lock nut (B).

remove the lower mounting lock nut (A) of
the lower arm ball joint (B).
4. Using a MST-xxx (A), detach the lower arm

ball joint from the knuckle (B).

remove the lower arm ball joint top
mounting bolts (A) and detach the lower arm
ball joint.
Installation
Front Stabilizer Bar Bush

Removal
remove the stabilizer bush bracket
mounting bolts (A).
2. Pull out the stabilizer bar bracket and bush

(A) from the stabilizer bar.
Installation
Clean the stabilizer bar mounting bracket otherwise it will lead to generation of noise.
Front Stabilizer Bar Link Rod

Removal
1. Using a 0.74”(19 mm) and 0.70”(18 mm)socket
and wrench, remove the link rod mounting nuts
(A) from the stabilizer bar (B).
2. Using a 0.74” (19 mm) and 0.70” (18 mm)

socket and wrench, remove the link rod
mounting nuts (A) from the lower arm.
Installation
Front Upper Arm (Bump Stopper)

Removal
remove the upper arm stopper bush mounting
nut (A) from the chassis and detach the upper
arm stopper bush.
Installation
Front Lower Arm (Bump Stopper)

Removal
1. Using the chisel, hit and rotate the bump
stopper plate and detach the bump stopper bush
assembly (A).
Installation
1. Hand tight the bump stopper bush.
2. Using the grip plier at the bump stopper plate, hold and tighten the bush.
Independent front (Double) suspension with gas
Type filled telescopic shock absorbers, front anti roll
bar.
Maximum length: 335±3.

Front Shock Absorbers-2WD Minimum length: 222+3.
Shock Absorber Standout :0.91”(23 mm)
Maximum Length: 378 ± 3
Front Shock Absorbers-4WD
Minimum Length: 244 ± 3
Shock absorber stand out: 0.91”(23mm)
Coil Spring Approx. Free ht: 309mm
Solid ht: 152.6.
Total coils: 8.34 Approx.
Camber 0.23 °±0.5 (0°14’ ± 0°30’)
Difference between LH & RH Camber ±0.5° (±30’)
Castor
2.75° ± 1.0° [2° 45” ± 1.0°]
Cross camber value
0.5° 30”
Difference between LH & RH castor
± 1.0° (± 60')
Total Toe in 1 to 3 mm.
Total Toe in (in degrees) 0.15 to 0.45 ° (9’ to 27’)

King pin inclination
10.75° ± 1° [10° 45” ± 1°]
Ride height In Unladen condition
11” ± 0.31” (285 mm ± 8 mm)
Ride height variation between LH & RH (Up to LCA
0.19”(5mm)
Front Pivot Bolt)
Knuckle assembly upper ball joint 135 ± 25
Wheel nuts 93 ± 9
upper arm front mounting nut 90 ± 10
upper arm rear mounting nut 90 ± 10

upper arm frame mounting nuts 130 ± 20
Knuckle arm upper ball joint 140 ± 20
Knuckle assembly lower arm ball joint 70 ± 10

mounting bolts at LCA 0.63”(16mm) 40 ± 10
mounting bolts at LCA 0.71”(18mm) 80 ± 10
Lower control arm front mounting nut 97 ± 10

Lower control arm rear mounting nut 97 ± 10
Shock absorber bottom mounting bolt LCA 70 ± 10
Shock absorber upper mounting nut on chassis 19 ± 3

Stabilizer bar mounting bracket bolts on chassis 38 ± 7
Stabilizer bar link bolts lower control arm 70 ± 5

MST-561
Upper Arm Ball Joint Puller
MST-562
Lower Arm Ball Joint Puller
MST–563
Fulcrum Mounting Bolt Spanner

MST-564
Fixture Upper/ Lower Arm Bush
MST-565
Extractor/Installer Arm Suspension Bush
Tie Rod End Ball Joint Puller

(Universal Tool)
Chassis bush Removal/ Pressing Tool
MST-571
Special Socket for hub nut
MST-572
Installer Front Wheel Bearing Cone-Outer
MST-573
Installer Front Wheel Bearing Cone-Inner
MST-574
Installer Front wheel Hub oil seal
MST-575
Installer Front Hub Grease Cup
Rear Suspension – Multilink Type
Table of Content
Description……………………………………………………........................................…………….
In Car Repair………………………………………………….........................................……………
Description
MULTI LINK REAR SUSPENSION - SCHEMATIC
SUV is equipped with Multi Link Suspension on Rear Side.
The rear suspension is with coil spring and five links. This type of rear suspension provides more comfort
& better handling characteristics of the vehicle.
The suspension encompasses Upper Links, lower links, Pan hard Rod. Coil springs & Shock Absorbers. The
upper & lower links are tubular with rubber bushes press fitted on both ends. The lower links are taking
the loads due to acceleration & braking. The upper links mainly are used to guide and to some extent
share the lateral loads. One end of the links is connected to the chassis while the other end is at axle.
The Pan hard rod is connected between the axle & the chassis .It takes all the transverse loads
experienced during cornering controlling the axle movement in lateral direction.
The anti roll bars are used to transfer the loads to the outer wheel during turns.
The coil springs absorb the road shocks due to terrain & different load conditions. The shock absorbers
dampen the oscillations of the vehicle. The rubber bumper fitted on the chassis reduces the impact loads
into the body.
The bonded rubber silent blocks / bushings are press fitted & does not require lubrication with oil. (Also
should never be lubricated). While jacking up the vehicle the jack should always be put below the axle
only. Under any circumstances the vehicle should not be jacked up putting the jack below any of the link
including Pan hard rod.
While lifting the vehicle, if the resting pads are pressing against any of the lower links, then there is a
strong possibility that lower links may get bent.
Trouble Shooting
Problem Possible causes Correction
Vehicle tending to be • Permanent distortion or Replace.

lower on one side & breakage of coil spring
poor ride.
Poor ride • Stabilizer link rod loose Tighten. If required add washer
( excessive pitching between nut & link.
or roll) • Unsmooth operation of shock Replace.
absorber
• Installation of wrong shock Replace with proper parts.
absorber
• Installation of wrong coil spring Replace with proper parts
Bouncy ride • Breakage of coil spring Replace.
• Over inflation pressure of tyre Adjust.
• Unsuitable installation Adjust or replace the coil springs with
(maximum and/or minimum new ones.
length) of shock absorber
• Deformation or damage of Replace with proper parts.
bushing
• Oil leakage of shock absorber Replace
Bouncy ride/ • Fault in operation of shock Replace.
pitching/ roll. absorber
• Damage or deformation of Replace.
shock absorber mount
• Deformation or damage of Replace.
shock absorber
• Anti roll bar link loose Retighten.
Noise • Wear or damage of shock Replace
absorber component parts
• Loosening of suspension link Retighten to the specified torque.
installing bolt
• Deformation or loss of bushing Replace.
• Unsuitability of maximum Replace with proper parts.
and/or minimum length of
shock absorber
• Breakage of coil spring Replace
• Wear or damage of ball joint. Replace
• Deformation of stabilizer Retighten to the specified torque
clamp.
• Link nut loose Retighten to the specified torque
In Car Repair
Note: Unless otherwise specified the assembly procedures/ guidelines are the reverse of
the disassembly procedure.
1. Shock Absorber
2. Coil spring
Shock Absorber –
1. Remove the upper attaching nut, washer & bolt.
2. Remove the lower attaching nuts, washer from the axle.
3. Remove the shock absorber. ( Check Point A )
• Coil Spring –
1. Remove the stabilizer bar.
2. Remove the coil springs. ( Check Point B )
3. Separate the rubber spring seat.
Suspension Overhaul / Bush Replacement –
For disassembling the suspension, the vehicle should be placed on the level ground/ four
post lift. A two post lift can be used for convenience only for loosening the fasteners if a
four post lift is not available.
1. Loosen & remove Pan hard Rod by removing nuts, bolts & washers.
2. Loosen & remove Lower link assembly.
3. Loosen & remove Upper link assembly.
4. Loosen & remove shock absorber.
5. Loosen & remove Stabilizer link nuts.
6. To remove & refit the link bushes. Use the MST in the mechanical press. (Refer Check point C)
Ensure that the bushes are lubricated with soap solution only. Under no circumstance use any mineral oil
or grease; as they degrade the bushes.
Stabilizer Bar Link Replacement –
1. Loosen & remove the stabilizer link upper nut.
2. Loosen & remove the stabilizer bar link lower nut & remove the stabilizer bar link assembly. (Check
Point D)
• Stabilizer Bar Bush Replacement –
Note: The vehicle should be parked on ground/ four post lift such that all four wheels will be resting on
the level surface.
1) Loosen & Remove stab link nuts & the stabilizer bar mounting bolts.
2) Remove the stabilizer bar from the vehicle.
3) Change the old bushes with new one.
While assembling ensures that the bushes are liberally lubricated with soap water.
Never use any mineral based oil / grease for the lubrication of any of the suspension bush including the
link bushes / stabilizer bar / shock absorber bushes.
• Check Points –
A)
The proper orientation of the cup washers at the

bottom end of the shock absorbers should be
ensured.
B)
While fitting the coil spring back ;

The correct orientation should be ensured.
If the coil spring is held vertically; the flat end coil

should be facing upwards (Towards the Chassis) &
curved towards the axle.
C)
Ensure the fitment of proper stab link assembly &

proper orientation on both sides.
D)
Protecting sleeve
A Special tool for removing

Bush
B
Support Block.
For removing the bush from the link following

sequence should be followed – ( Refer
Photograph)
1. Place link on the support block as shown.

2. Insert the spigot in the centre hole of the bush.
3. Place the protecting sleeve on MST --- such
that the spigot will not get damaged because
of the mechanical press screw.
4. Tighten the mechanical press screw & remove
the bush.
Note :
Use the side A of the tool while pressing the lower
or upper link bushes.
The side B has to be used while removing &
installing the transverse link/ Pan hard rod
(The width of the bushes are different)
Type Multi link with stabilizer Bar & telescopic shock

absorbers
Rear Shock absorbers Maximum length – 503 ± 3.0 mm
Minimum length – 314 ± 3.0 mm
Stroke – 189 mm
Dampening Force –
Expansion – 148 ± 21 mm
Contraction – 71 ± 13 mm
Coil spring Load Identification
1 yellow Dot / Line

2 yellow Dots/Line
Description Value
Pan hard rod – Chassis end & Axle end 90 ± 10 Nm ( 66 ± 7 lb-ft )
Upper Link – Chassis end & Axle end 90 ± 10 Nm ( 66 ± 7 lb-ft )
Lower Link – Chassis end & Axle end 90 ± 10 Nm ( 66 ± 7 lb-ft )
Stabilizer link Nut 40 ± 10 Nm ( 30 ± 7 lb-ft )
Stabilizer Bar Mounting Bolts 40 ± 10 Nm ( 30 ± 7 lb-ft )
Shock Absorber Nut – Upper & lower 40 ± 10 Nm (30 ± 7 lb-ft)
Rear Suspension – Leaf Spring
Table of Content
DESCRIPTION…………………………………………………………………..............
TROUBLESHOOTING………………………………………………………….........................
IN CAR REPAIR……………………………………………………………….............................
SPECIFICATION………………………………………………………………............................
TIGHTENING TORQUE……………………………………………………….........................
Description
REAR SUSPENSION – SCHEMATIC

LEAF SPRING TYPE
Single Cab and Double Cab vehicles are fitted with Leaf Spring in Rear Suspension.
The rear suspension system is semi elliptical leaf spring mounted onto the rear axle tube at the center
and the chassis frame at the other two ends. It also consists of the shock absorbers and stabilizer bar.
Stabilizer bar is mounted on the rear axle with the help of rubber bush. It is connected to the chassis
frame on both ends through the link rods.
Leaf spring is attached directly to the frame at one end and the other through a shackle, a short
swinging arm. The shackle takes up the tendency of the leaf spring to elongate when compressed and
thus makes for softer springiness.
The stabilizer bar receives all the transverse loads experienced especially during cornering controlling
the axle movement in lateral direction. The stabilizer bars transfer the loads to the outer wheel during
turns. The shock absorber will absorb the road shocks due to terrain and different load conditions. The
shock absorbers dampen the oscillations of the springs. The body mounts made of rubber fitted on the
chassis reduces the impact loads onto the body.
Rear Stabilizer Bar
The rear stabilizer bar is also called as anti-roll bar/anti-sway bar. During cornering the outer wheel
suspension is compressed by the vehicle body. The vehicle chassis also rolls and the outer end of the
stabilizer bar twists upwards. Through the pivot mountings the stabilizer bar transmits part of the
torsional force to the opposite wheel, pulling into its wheel housing. This causes the inner wheel
suspension to be compressed and thereby reducing the body roll. The stabilizer bar is mounted on to
the rear axle through two mounting brackets with bushes.
Rear Stabilizer Bar Link Rod
The Rear Stabilizer Bar Link Rod connects the rear stabilizer to the chassis. There are two such links
connected to the respective ends of the stabilizer Bar. These facilitate the twisting of the stabilizer bar
during cornering and roll.
Rear Shock Absorber
The Shock absorber is gas filled telescopic type. It is mounted

on the rear axle and the other end is connected to vehicle
chassis frame with the help of securing bolts.
The shock-absorber is also called as damper. The shock-

absorber smooth out or damps shock impulses or vibrations
induced due to wheel travel over uneven road surfaces. The
shock-absorber slows down and reduces magnitude of
vibratory motions by converting the kinetic energy of
suspension movement into heat energy that is dissipated
through gas or hydraulic fluid.
Leaf Spring Assembly
The leaf spring supports the vehicle and offers a comfortable ride. It prevents the shocks generated by
the irregularities in road from being transferred to the passenger block of the vehicle. It also supports
the rear axle.
Leaf spring attached directly to the frame at one end and the other end is attached through a shackle,
a short swinging arm. The shackle takes up the tendency of the leaf spring to elongate when
compressed and thus makes for softer elasticity of the spring.
The U-bolts fit around the rear axle and secure to a metal plate that rests against the leaf springs. The
purpose of the U-bolts is to keep the leaf springs flush against the axle thus the springs will take the
weight of the vehicle and will not move around too much during driving. The friction pads are
provided between the leaves to minimize the noise.
Semi elliptical spring is form of a slender arc shaped length of spring steel of rectangular cross section.
The center of the arc provides location for the rear axle, while tie holes are provided at either end for
attaching to the vehicle body. The leaf spring has been made from six leaves stacked on top of each
other from the layers, often with progressively shorter leaves. Leaf springs serves locating and to
some extent damping as well as springing functions.
Trouble Shooting
A squeak noise from the shock absorber can be produced if movement between the rubber bushing
and metal occurs. Tightening the attaching parts can usually stop this noise. If the squeak noise
persists then inspect for worn or damaged bushings and attaching components. Repair as necessary if
anything found amiss.
The shock absorber bushings do not require any kind of lubrication. Do not lubricate the bushings to
reduce bushing noise. Grease or mineral oil base lubricants will deteriorate the bushing.
The shock absorbers are not refillable or adjustable. If a malfunction occurs, the shock absorber must
be replaced. To test a shock absorber hold it upright in fully extended position for 10 minutes. Then
force the piston in and out of the cylinder four or five times. Also check for any hydraulic oil leakage.
The action throughout each stroke should be smooth and even.

Suspension Noise 1. Check if mud is between  Clean with pressurized water.
the leaf springs.
2. Check tip insert if  Replace the tip between the
broken/ worn out. leaves.
3. Check bushes.  Replace the bushes.
4. Check shock absorber  Tighten the shock absorber
bush- worn out/ loose. mounting bolt or replace the
bushes.
5. Check leaf breakage.  Replace the spring assembly.
Vehicle ride Jumpy/ Jerky 1. Improper tyre pressure.  Keep tyre pressure as
2. Shock absorber bushes recommended.
worn out.  Replace the shock absorber.
3. Spring leaf bushes worn  Replace the bushes.
out.
4. Shock absorbers leaking/  Check the shock absorber and
weak. replace if required.
 Check the bump clearance as per
5. Leaf spring sagging / the specified procedure. Replace
broken. springs.
In Car Repairs
This section consists of –
1. Stabilizer Bar Removal
2. Shock Absorber Removal
3. Leaf Spring - Bush Replacement
- Pivot End Bush Replacement
- Shackle End Bush Replacement
4. Leaf Spring Assembly - Replacement
- Leaf Spring Assembly Removal
STABILIZER BAR - REMOVAL
Stabilizer bar Rear Suspension - Schematic
Removal
Slippage/dropping of heavy/large objects during removal of the stabilizer bar will cause personal
injury.
• Using an open end spanner and socket and wrench set, detach the stabilizer bar link rod
mounting nut of a ball joint on both sides of the chassis.
• Using a socket and wrench set, remove the stabilizer bar mounting bolts from the rear axle .
• Detach the stabilizer bar along with its mounting clamp and bushes.
Take care while removing the mounting brackets of the rear stabilizer bar so as to avoid damage to
the wheel speed sensor cables.
Inspection
• Check the stabilizer bar for twist or deformation. Replace if necessary.

• Check the rubber bushing for cracks, wear or deterioration. Replace if necessary.
• Check for loose link rod ball joint. Replace if necessary.
Installation
• To install, reverse the removal procedure.

• Tighten all nuts and bolts to the specified torque.
SHOCK ABSORBERS - REMOVAL
Shock Absorber Removal – Rear Susp. Schematic
Removal
Slippage/dropping of heavy/large objects during removal of the stabilizer bar will cause personal
injury.
These are gas filled shock absorbers. Do not heat any components nearby. The gases may heat
up and expand and there is danger of exploding. failure to follow this instruction may cause
personal injury and/or damage to components.
• Remove the upper attaching nut and washer.

• Remove the lower attaching nuts, washer and bolts from the axle. Remove the shock
absorber.
• While fitting ensure that they are tightened to a torque of 45 to 55 Nm (33 to 40 Lb ft)
Inspection
• Check the shock absorber for smooth operation by full stroke, compression and extension.
• Check the shock absorber for fluid leakage, damage or deformation. Replace if necessary.
LEAF SPRING - BUSH REPLACEMENT
• Pivot End Bush Replacement –
BUSH
Tightening Torque
50 ~ 70 Nm.
• Support the vehicle in chassis

1. Loosen the shackle mounting bolts.
2. Remove the pivot mounting bolts by rotating and pulling.
3. Pull out inner bush by pulling it out.
4. Lower the axle and bring the spring out of pivot.
5. Remove the bush by pulling it out.
While assembling ensures that:

• The rubber bushes are liberally coater with soap water.
• The hole in the centre of the pivot and the hanger bracket are clean and not
blocked by mud.(The hole is provided so that while assembling the air should
not get trapped between the two bushes- preventing proper assembly.)
• The eyes in spring and pivot/shackle are properly aligned before the bushes are
inserted.
• After the bushes are inserted, remove the support from the chassis & axle (if
used) and then tighten the pivot and shackle bolts to the desired torque.
• Shackle End Bush Replacement –
BUSH SHACKLE BRACKET
Tightening Torque
50 ~ 70 Nm.
• Support the vehicle in chassis

1. Loosen the shackle mounting bolts.
2. Remove the shackle/pivot mounting bolts.
3. Pull out one bush at a time. Each eye is having two collared bushes. They can be pulled out.
While assembling ensures that:

• The rubber bushes are liberally coater with soap water.
• The hole in the centre of the pivot and the hanger bracket are clean and not
blocked by mud.(The hole is provided so that while assembling the air should
not get trapped between the two bushes- preventing proper assembly.)
• The eyes in spring and pivot/shackle are properly aligned before the bushes are
inserted.
• After the bushes are inserted, remove the support from the chassis & axle (if
used) and then tighten the pivot and shackle bolts to the desired torque.
• LEAF SPRING ASSEMBLY - REPLACEMENT
Rear Leaf Spring Assembly -

Schematic
• The leaf springs need to be replaced only if the springs are broken or are sagging.
• To check for the spring sagging it is recommended that bump clearance in unladen conditions
is measured.
The bump clearance has to be measure after ensuring that -

• The vehicle is in level ground.
• It is unladen.
• The tyre pressure is as per the recommendations and also no variation between
left and right tyres.
• The bump stop is not in deteriorated or damaged condition.
• The bump clearance is 85±10 mm and the variation between Left and right is
allowed to be 7 mm
Re-cambering of the spring is not recommended. (Please note that the spring is of progressive type –
any re-cambering will result in the ride becoming linear as well as stiff.
Leaf Spring Removal
1. Using a socket and wrench set, remove

the U-bolt lock nuts of the rear axle.
2. Remove the spring support plate.
3. Remove the U-bolts and bump stopper

from the rear axle.
4. Using a socket and wrench set, loosen

the shackle plate mounting nuts and
remove the shackle plate and shackle
plate assembly mounted in the chassis.
5. Remove the retainer stud plate bolts

from the chassis bracket and separate
the retainer plate.
6. Provide jack support to the leaf spring

assembly and carefully detach the leaf
spring assembly and bushes from the
vehicle.
Type and description (Leaf / Coil / Air / Semi-pneumatic / Torsion bar)

Independent, Coil springs, Double Wishbone type
Front
with Anti-roll bar
Rear Rigid with Leaf Spring
Type of spring and Numbers Leaf springs with 6 each side.
Suspension- Shock absorber :
Type and Number Telescopic twin tube - 2
Suspension- Stabilizer :
Rear Yes
Description Torque (N-m)

Bolt – Leaf spring pivot 60 ± 10 Nm
Bolt - Shackle 60 ± 10 Nm
U Bolt 90 ± 10 Nm
Shock Absorber Top 50 ± 10 Nm
Shock Absorber Bottom 50 ± 10 Nm
Assembly Plate End Pivot 25 ± 10 Nm
Brake System
Table of Content
Description……………………………………………………........................................…………….
In Car Repair………………………………………………….........................................……………
Description
The purpose of the brake system is to allow the driver to reduce the vehicle speed or stop the vehicle in
a stable & safe manner. The function of the brake system is to convert kinetic energy of the vehicle into
heat energy through the application of friction.
A vehicle is also equipped with a parking brake mechanism to be used in parking conditions of vehicle or
in case of hydraulic brake failure, usually through the application of a hand operated lever.
Generally the braking power is three to five times more than the engine power. Brake systems use
friction to slow down, stop and hold the wheels of a vehicle. Brake systems apply friction by the use of
brake shoes or brake pads. Although friction is being applied to the brakes it is actually the friction
between the tires and road surface that stops the vehicle.
A disc brake uses brake pads to carry the friction material. The brake pad friction material is bonded to a
steel pad (back plate). Most brake pad manufacturers use a combination of metallic fibers in a resin
material to create the friction material.
A drum brake uses a brake shoe to carry the friction material. The friction material may be riveted or
bonded on to a steel shoe (web). Kevlar or a steel and mineral fiber mix is a common friction lining for
the brake shoe. Brake friction materials must be able to withstand temperatures up to 700 degrees
Celsius for short periods.
The brake system in SUV/ SC/ DC is vacuum assisted ‘H’ split type. The front brakes are single pot
callipers with ventilated rotor (with angular vanes, hence the LHS and RHS are different). The rear brakes
are drum type with self-adjusting mechanism. The parking brakes are actuated in the rear through cable.
Both the front disc pads and the rear brake liners are non asbestos.
The braking system includes a Load sensing Proportioning Valve. It controls the brake fluid pressure
going to the rear depending on the load on the vehicle. Normally when the vehicle is loaded and brakes
applied; due to the weight transfer the load on the rear wheels become very less. In vehicles without the
LSPV; the full pressure of brake fluid going to the rear wheels tends to lock them. In vehicles fitted with
LSPV, the LSPV reduces the brake fluid going to the rear circuit depending on the load hence avoids the
rear wheel locking. Since the rear wheel locking is avoided it results in reducing the braking distance
(distance covered before the vehicle comes to a standstill)
The brake circuit is having an inbuilt bypass valve in the LSPV. In an unlikely situation of the front brake
circuit failure; the LSPV valve is bypassed and the full pressure of brake fluid goes to the rear. This
ensures that braking is achieved. The complete details about the LSPV valve & its functioning and setting
are mentioned later.
NOTE: Refer separate chapter in this Repair Manual for details on Anti-lock braking system.
Trouble Shooting
Preliminary checks involve inspecting fluid level, parking brake action, and wheel and tyre conditions,
checking for obvious or external leaks or component damage and pedal response. A road test will
confirm or deny the existence of the problem.
While road testing if the complaint involved low brake pedal, make several low speed stops and note if
pedal comes back to normal height. Check the pedal response with gear in neutral and engine running.
The pedal should remain firm under steady pressure. During road test make normal and firm brake stops
in speeds of 40 to 60 Km/h. Note faulty brake operation such as pull, grab, drag, noise, low pedal, hard
pedal, fade, pedal pulsation, etc.
Diagnosis –
Pedal falls away / Pedal sinking

A brake pedal that falls away under steady foot pressure is generally the result of system leak. The leak
point could be at a brake line, fitting hose, wheel cylinder or Master Cylinder Internal leakage’s caused by
worn or damaged piston, seals may also be the problem cause.
If leakage is severe fluid will be evident at or around the leaking component.
Low pedal
If a low pedal is experienced, pump the pedal several times. If the pedal comes back up, worn lining and
worn rotors or drums are the most likely cause. However, if the pedal remains low and / or the warning
light illuminates then the problem is in the master cylinder, wheel cylinder, or callipers.
A decrease in master cylinder fluid may only be the result of normal lining wear. Fluid level will decrease
in proportion to the lining wear. It is a result of the outward movement of caliper and wheel cylinder
pistons to compensate for normal wear. Top up reservoir fluid and check brake operation to verify the
complaint.
Spongy pedal
A spongy pedal is most often caused by air in the system. However thin drums or substandard brake
lining and hoses will also cause a condition similar to spongy pedal. The proper course of action is bleed
the system or replace thin drums and suspect quality brake lining and hoses. In case the system has not
been maintained as per recommendations and the brake hoses have not been replaced then due to
swelling of the hoses during braking – it also causes spongy braking. In such a condition it is advisable to
replace the hoses and replace all the seals and change the brake fluid.
Hard pedal or high pedal effort
A hard pedal or high pedal effort may be due to lining that is water soaked, contaminated, glazed or
badly worn. Defective vacuum assistance will also cause hard operation. The vacuum booster or check
valve (NRV) could also be faulty. Test the booster function. As detailed below —
1. Start engine & check booster hose connections as well as the EGR valve connections. Correct any
vacuum leak before proceeding further.
2. Stop the engine and put in neutral.
3. Pump the brake pedal until all the vacuum in the reservoir is exhausted (normally after 6 to 8
pedal applications the brake pedal will become hard)
4. Press and hold brake pedal under light foot pressure
a. If the pedal hold firm then proceed to step 5.

b. If the pedal does not hold firm then and falls away then the master cylinder is defective.
5. Start the engine and note pedal action.
a. If the pedal falls away slightly under light pedal action and then hold firm then proceed
to step 6
b. If no pedal action is discernable then vacuum pump or vacuum check valve is defective.
6. Rebuild the vacuum reserve as follows. Release brake pedal. Increase engine speed to 1500 rpm
and then bring it to idle and shut off engine.
7. Wait for about 90 seconds and try brake action again. Booster should provide two or more
vacuum assisted pedal applications. If vacuum assist is not performed then perform check for the
check valve and booster.
Find below flow chart for reference –
TROUBLE SHOOTING OF VACUUM BOOSTER ASSEMBLY

BASIC TEST
ENGINE OFF. Depress & release brake pedal several times to remove vacuum from Booster
Assembly. After this the pedal application will feel hard to press.
Depress the brake pedal & hold with light pressure of @ 10kgs. & start the ENGINE
If the booster is functioning satisfactory, the pedal will fall slightly & then hold. Here less pressure
will be needed to hold the pedal dawn.
IF THE BOOSTER IS NOT OPERATING If the BOOSTER is

Disconnect the vacuum hose from the NRV. Then with OPERATING pl. turns over & do
ENGINE RUNNING, Check vacuum supply with a the VACUUM LEAK
vacuum gauge. There should be at least 600 mm of Hg TEST.
vacuum for Diesel vehicle.
If VACUUM SUPPLY IS BELOW 600 mm of Hg for If VACUUM SUPPLY IS

diesel vehicle replace or repair vacuum hose & 600 mm of Hg for or more for diesel
vacuum source. vehicle, then the booster is faulty & should
be replaced.
When adequate vacuum supply is

obtained, repeat basic test.
VACUUM LEAK TEST
Run engine to medium speed. Release accelerator

& turn Engine OFF. This builds up vacuum.
Wait for 90 sec. & apply brakes. Two or more

applications should be vacuum assisted.
IF APPLICATIONS ARE NOT VACUUM IF APPLICATIONS ARE

ASSISTED disconnect vacuum hose from VACUUM ASSISTED there is no
vacuum source or NRV whichever is vacuum leak.
easier. If disconnected from NRV, attach DO THE HYDRAULIC LEAK
short length of hose to valve. TEST
Blow into hose attached to NRV. If air passes

through, valve is defective.
IF NRV or CHECK VALVE IS IF NRV OR CHECK VALVE

DEFECTIVE install new NRV IS OK, vacuum booster is
& repeat VACUUM LEAK TEST. leaking & should be replaced.
Depress & release brake pedal several

times. Then hold pedal depressed with
medium pressure.
IF PEDAL FALLS AWAY hydraulic system is IF PEDAL DOES NOT FALLS

leaking. Check for external leakage at wheel AWAY hydraulic system is not
cylinders, callipers, brake pipes, hoses & leaking.
joints.
If there is no external leak, there may be an
internal leak (master cylinder seals).
Repair or replace parts needed to correct leak.
CHECK VALVE OR NRV -- NON RETURN VALVE, MOUNTED ON VACUUM BOOSTER FRONT FACE.
Brake drag
Brake drag occurs when the lining is in constant contact with the rotor or drum. Drag can occur at one
wheel, all wheels, front only or rear only. It is caused by incomplete shoe release. Drag can be minor or
severe enough to overheat the lining, rotor and drum. Brake drag has a direct effect on fuel economy.
Undetected minor drag can be misdiagnosed as an engine complaint. In case of severe drag it can also
cause clutch slip.
Minor drag will usually cause slight surface charring of the lining. It can also generate hard spots in the
rotor or the brake drum from the overheating/ cooling process. In most cases the rotors, drums, wheels,
and tyres are quite warm to touch after the vehicle is stopped.
Severe drag can char the brake lining all the way through. It can also cause distort and score rotors and
drums to the point of replacement. The wheels, tyre and brake components will be extremely hot. In
severe cases the lining may generate smoke as it chars from overheating.
Some common causes of brake drag are:
• Loose or damaged wheel bearing

• Seized or sticky caliper or wheel cylinder piston.
• Loose caliper-mounting bracket.
• Loose mounting bolts of the rotor.
• Bent sliding pins in the calliper.
• Distorted brake drum or shoes.
• Rear brake shoes binding on worn/ damaged support plates
• Misassembled components
• Incomplete release of parking brake
• No free play
• Clogged master cylinder return port
• Broken master cylinder return spring
• Early lock of rear wheel due to change in setting distance of LSPV .
If the brake drag occurs at all the wheels, the problem may be related to a blocked master cylinder
compensation port or faulty vacuum booster (binds does not release).
An improperly mounted brake light switch can also be a cause of drag. An improper mounting may
prevent the brake pedal to return completely. This will cause the master cylinder feed port to be
blocked. The brakes would be partially applied causing the drag.
Brake Fade
Brake fade is a product of overheating caused by brake drag. However overheating and subsequent
brake fade can also be caused by riding the brake pedal, making repeated high deceleration stops in a
short time span,
Constant braking on steep roads also cause brake fade. If the brake lining is contaminated with oil or
glazed then also the brake fading will take place.
Pedal Pulsation
Pedal pulsation is caused by components that are loose or beyond tolerance limits.
Disc brake rotors with excessive lateral run out or disc thickness variation, or out of round drums are the
primary cause of pulsation. Other causes are loose wheel bearings or calipers and worn, damaged tyre
Brake Pull
A front pull condition would be the result of:
• Contaminated lining in one caliper.

• Seized caliper piston
• Binding caliper.
• Loose caliper.
• Loose or corroded slide pin.
• Improper brake shoes
• Inadequate contact of pad.
• Damaged rotor
• Incorrect tyre inflation (High variations between two wheel)
• Shoe return spring weak or broken
A worn, damaged wheel bearing or suspension components are further cause. A damaged front tyre
(bruised, ply separation) can also cause pull.
A common and frequently misdiagnosed pull condition is where the direction of pull changes after a few
stops. The cause is a combination of brake drag followed by brake fade at the dragging brake unit.
As the dragging brake overheats, efficiency is so reduced as the fade occurs. If the opposite braking unit
is still functioning then its braking effect is magnified. These causes pull to switch direction in favour of
the brake unit that is functioning normally.
While diagnosing a pull in change in pull condition, remember that pull will return to the original
direction if the dragging brake unit is allowed to cool down (and is not seriously damaged)
Rear Brake Grab
Contaminated lining, bent, or binding shoes and support plate usually causes rear grab (or pull). This is
particularly true when one wheel is involved. However when both rear wheels are affected the master
cylinder or the proportionate valve could be at fault.
Brakes do not Hold after Driving through Deep Water Puddle
This condition is generally caused by water soaked lining. If the lining is only wet it can be dried by
driving with the brakes lightly applied for 2 to 4 kms. However if the lining is both wet and dirty then it
will be necessary to dismantle, clean and reassemble.
Brake Fluid Contamination
There are two causes of brake fluid contamination. The first involves allowing dirt, debris, or other liquid
material to enter cylinder reservoir when the cover is off. The second involves adding to, or filling the
cylinder with a non- – recommended fluid. Brake fluid contaminated with only dirt, or debris usually
retains a normal appearance. In some cases the foreign material will remain suspended in the fluid and
be visible. The fluid and foreign material can be removed from the reservoir with a suction gun but only if
the brakes have not been applied. If the brakes are applied after contamination, system flushing will be
required. The master cylinder may have to be disassembled, cleaned and the piston seals replaced.
Foreign material lodged in the reservoir compensator/ports can cause brake drag by restricting the fluid
return after application.
Brake fluid contaminated by a non recommended fluid will usually be discoloured, milky, oily looking or
foamy. In some cases it may even appear as if the fluid contains sludge. However remember that the
brake fluid will darken in time and occasionally are cloudy in appearance. These are normal conditions
and should not be mistaken for contamination.
If some type of oil has been added to the system then the fluid can separate into distinct layers. This can
be verified by draining off a sample with a clean suction gun. Then pour the sample into a glass container
and observe fluid action. If the fluid separates into distinct layers, it is definitely contaminated.
The only real correction for contamination by non-recommended fluids is to flush the entire hydraulic
system and replace all the seals and the brake hose.
Brake Noise
Squeak/Squeal
Brake squeak or squeal may be due to lining that are wet or contaminated with brake fluid, grease or oil.
Glazed linings and rotor/drums with hard spots can also cause squealing. Dirt and foreign material
embedded in the system will also cause squeak/squeal. Worn retaining pins can also cause disc pad to
squeak/ rattle.
A very loud squeak or squeal is frequently a sign of severely worn brake lining (or the drum or the rotor).
If the lining has worn to the rivets then metal to metal contact takes place. In this condition we allow to
persist then rotors/drums can become so scored that it need to replace.
Thump/clunk
Thumping or clunking noise during braking are not caused by the brake components. In many cases such
noises are caused by loose or damaged steering, suspension or engine components. However calipers
that bind on the slide surface can generate thump or clunk noise. In addition, worn out improperly
adjusted, or improperly assembled rear brake shoes can also produce a thumping noise.
Chatter
Loose or worn components or glazed/burnt lining usually causes brake chatter. Rotors with hard spots
can also contribute to chatter. Additional causes of chatter are out of tolerance rotors, brake ling not
secured properly to shoes, loose wheel bearings and contaminated brake lining.
Brake lining contamination
Brake lining contamination is usually a product of leaking calipers or wheel cylinders, driving through
deep puddles, or lining that has become covered with grease and gravel during repair.
Wheel & Tyre Problems
Some conditions attributed to brake components may actually be caused by a wheel or tyre problem.
 A damage wheel can cause shudder, vibration and pull. A worn or damaged tyre can also cause
pull.
 Severely worn tyres with very little tread depth can produce a condition similar to grab as the
tyre loses and recover traction.
 Flat spotted tyres can cause vibration and wheel tramp and generate wheel shudder during
brake operation.
 A tyre with internal damage such as bruise or ply separation can cause pull and vibration
Defective Parking Brake
This can be caused by excessive hand brake lever play. Sticky parking cable, grease or oil on shoe, excess
shoe clearance (normally caused by malfunction of automatic adjusting mechanism)
Care of the system

The brake fluid should conform to DOT 4 specifications.
The brake fluid should be replaced twice a year or every 40,000 Kms. whichever is earlier. This is because
brake fluid is hygroscopic in nature hence it absorbs moisture. The normal braking operation also results
in brake fluid getting heated. The process of heating and cooling also results in moisture.
The brake fluid boiling point keeps coming down due to the presence of moisture hence if not changed it
can cause higher corrosion of the wheel cylinders/ master cylinders/ brake tubes as well as spongy or
poor braking.
Do not mixes brake fluid of different brands. Do not use any brake fluid, which is kept in an open
container. Always use brake fluid from a sealed container.
The brake fluid should not be contaminated with any mineral oil. Do not use reuse brake fluid that has
just been bled. The list of the recommended lubricants is enclosed at the end of the chapter.
This section consists of following Maintenance activities –
• FRONT BRAKE DISC/ BRAKE PAD CHECK
• REAR BRAKE – CHECK
• BRAKE BOOSTER – CHECK
• LSPV – SETTING
• PARKING BRAKE – CHECK
• BRAKE FLUID LEVEL & LEAK – CHECK
• BRAKE FLUID REPLACEMENT
• FRONT BRAKE DISC/ BRAKE PAD CHECK
7 mm Check Disc Thickness
Check Pad Thickness 22 mm
12 mm
Caliper & Disc Check - Schematic
Removal Steps – Assembly Procedure –

1. Remove wheel assembly. 1. Check & refit Disc assy.
2. Remove Caliper top side one sliding 2. Check Pad assembly and refit with
pin bolt. Lift & rotate the caliper. caliper assy.
3. Remove inboard & outboard Pad 3. Refit wheel assy.
4. Remove Disc assy.
Front Brake – Check

 Check the disc for abnormal wear/grooves (Minimum usable thickness of the disc is
22mm, check at 12mm inside from outer edge of disc)
 Loosen & remove the bottom side sliding pin bolt. Swing up the caliper. Remove the pads
& check the pad thickness. The minimum usable pad thickness is 7 mm. (without backing
plate) if observed less; replace the pads. (The groove at the center of the pad can also be
used as a reference. If the pad has worn up to the end of the groove; it should be
replaced)
 Measure the thickness at the thinnest and worn area of the pad. Replace pad assembly
when pad thickness is less than the limit value (7 mm).
 Pad wear indicator is also provided to know pad wear limit.
 Check for the oil leakage from Calipers/piston seals.
 If the activity is done on a 2 post lift, ensure that the LSPV spring is disconnected before
lifting the vehicle. After lowering, re-connect the LSPV spring and ensure that the setting
height is correct.
 If any pad is worn out (inboard /outboard) then replace both the pads.
 If pads on one wheel only are worn, even then replace the other wheels also.
 Any excessive difference between inboard and outboard wear indicates either bent or
seized sliding pin. Please check the complete hydraulic system besides the calipers.
 Always replace the front pads and shims together as a set.
 Install inner pad with its wear indicator upward.
• REAR BRAKE – CHECK
Brake Drum/ Liners – Check
1. Rear Brake – Open the drum & clean the brakes by blowing compressed air. Check the wheel
cylinder for oil leakage. (It is recommended to check the oil seepage from wheel cylinder by
lifting the dust boots.)
2. Check the brake lining for wear/cracks. The minimum usable thickness of the liner is 3.5 mm
(The brake liners must be replaced before the rib starts touching the drum).
3. Measure the wear of the brake lining at the place worn the most.
4. Replace the brake shoe and lining assembly if the lining thickness is less than the limit, if it is
not worn uniformly.
5. After re-assembly, check the wheel freeness in both forward & reverse direction.
 Park the vehicle in inspection pit/ 2 post lift/ 4 post lift

before lifting the vehicle. After lowering, re-connect the LSPV spring and ensure that
the setting height is correct.
 Whenever the shoe, linings are replaced, replace both RH & LH assemblies as a set to
prevent car from pulling to one side when braking.
 If there is significant difference in the thickness of the shoe and the lining assembly on
the left and right sides, check sliding movement of the piston.
 Rear Brake drum & liners to be inspected at every 20000kms.
BRAKE BOOSTER – CHECK
Brake Pedal Travel - Schematic
Brake Booster Operation Check -

• Step 1
- Switch off the engine and pump the brake pedal till it becomes hard.
- Press and hold the pedal, start the engine.
- If the pedal moves down slightly, immediately after the engine starts, the Booster unit is
operating.
• Step 2
- Start the engine.
- Turn the engine off after 1 or 2 minutes.
- Depress the pedal with usual force.
- If the first pedal stroke is long and becomes shorter with subsequent strokes, the Booster
unit is operating.
Brake Booster Functional Test

Inspect all hoses and connections. All unused vacuum connectors should be capped. Hoses and their
connections should be correctly secured in. Check the hoses for breakage, holes and collapsed areas.
Inspect the check valve on the brake booster for damage.
• Connect the vacuum gauge to the booster check valve with short length hose.
• Start and run the engine at idle speed for one minute.
• Observe the vacuum supply. If the vacuum supply is not adequate, repair the vacuum supply.
• Shut the clamp hose between the vacuum source and the check valve.
• Switch off the engine and observe the vacuum gauge.
• If vacuum drops more than one inch Hg (33millibars) within 15 seconds, booster diaphragm
or check valve is faulty.
Brake Booster Non-return valve Test

• Disconnect the vacuum hose from the check valve.
• Remove the check valve and the valve seal from the booster.
• Use a hand operated vacuum pump for test.
• Apply 15-20 inches vacuum at large end of check valve
• Vacuum should hold steady. If the gauge on pump indicates vacuum loss, then the check
valve is faulty and should be replaced.
• LSPV – SETTING
LSPV is mounted on 2 bolts on bracket fitted on chassis. It has got three brake fluid connections. One is
LSPV inlet from TMC, 2nd is LSPV outlet towards Rear wheel, 3rd is LSPV bypass connected to front four
ways TEE. The LSPV spring other end is mounted on the bracket on differential.
LSPV Setting - The LSPV setting is must in first service.

(This is necessary as the suspension gets settled and setting may change)
NOTE:
 The LSPV setting length is 112.25mm.
 The gauge used for LSPV setting is MST 0602BAA0001ST.
 Before start of LSPV setting, ensure the vehicle is Unladen.
Procedure for fitting and setting the LSPV Valve –

• Mount the LSPV valve on the bracket in the chassis. Fit all the hydraulic connections before
fitting / setting the LSPV valve ensure that the
• Vehicle unladen condition (Kerb weight) means No driver and no additional load.
• Fuel tank is assumed to be ¾ full.
• Before doing the fitment/setting run the vehicle through rough road /normal road for 5 to 10
kms. This is essential for the spring/ bushes to settle.
1. Remove the clip. Remove the Washer. Refer illustration shown.

2. Slide the control spring out from the bolt. Put the projecting pin of the tool in the eye of the
spring & allow the tool to hang freely.
3. Loosen the nut the M8 Hex Nut (Use 12 Ring Spanner) during removal hold the other end with 14
Spanner & move the bolt in such a way that the bolt is aligned & enters in the slot on the tool.
4. Retighten the nut in such a way that the bolt is in the correct position as indicated by the tool.
5. Remove the tool.
6. Pull down the spring and locate the eye in the bolt. Ensure that the spring is sitting properly in
its position. Fit the washer & the ‘e’ clip.
1 3
• PARKING BRAKE – CHECK
PARKING BRAKE - CHECK
PARKING BRAKE - CHECK

1. Check Brake & Clutch Pedals for free play & sponginess. Refer SOP given in Repair Manual.
2. Check Parking Brake Lever operation & setting.
• Park the vehicle on a slope and apply Parking Brake to check the effectiveness.
• Release the Parking Brake & check the free rolling.
3. Check the parking cables for correct routing
before lifting the vehicle & re-connect the LSPV spring & ensure that the setting height is
correct after job complete.
 Parking brake to be checked first at 5000 kms then at every 10000 kms.
• BRAKE FLUID LEVEL & LEAK – CHECK

Brake Fluid – SAE J1703 FMVSS No.116 DOT 4 or IS 8654 Type-2
1 Brake Fluid Reservoir BRAKE FLUID – LEVEL & LEAK -

CHECK
Refer illustrations –
MAX 1. Check for Brake Fluid Level up
‘Max’ mark on the brake fluid
MIN reservoir [1].
2. Check for Brake Fluid leakage and
correct fitment at all joints
 Hose connected from reservoir
and Clutch master cylinder [2].
 Brake Master Cylinder outlets.
 Brake bundy tube ‘Tee’ joints.
 Brake connections on each wheel
end.
2. Brake Fluid Leak – Check points
• In case anyone circuit fails, the other circuit will not be affected.
• Always use recommended fluid, do not mix different brand fluids.
• If the activity is done on a 2 post lift, ensure that the LSPV spring is disconnected
• Brake fluid level & leak to be checked first at 5000 & then at every 10000 kms.
• BRAKE FLUID – REPLACE (Non-ABS)
Brake Fluid – SAE J1703 FMVSS No.116 DOT 4 or IS 8654 Type-2

Brake Fluid 2
Reservoir 5
4 1
Brake System bleeding layout
The brake fluid should be replaced once in a year or every 40,000 Kms – whichever is earlier. Fluid
reservoir is mounted on the brake master cylinder. Refer above illustration. There are two compartments
in reservoir; fluid is being supplied to front brake circuit and rear brake circuit.
Open the bleed screws on Callipers, Rear brake drums and LSPV and allow the fluid to drain out
completely. To ensure complete draining, brake pedal can be depressed gradually. Do not repeat;
pressing brake pedal without fluid in the system can damage internal seals/ brake parts.
After the fluid is drained, hand tightens bleed screws on Front Callipers, Rear brake drums & LSPV. Refill
recommended fluid in the reservoir till the MAX mark. Ensure that fluid is getting in and air in the system
getting passed through bleed screws; tighten bleed screws as soon as continue flow of fluid starts.
Refer below mentioned brake bleeding sequence and illustration -
1. Rear left
2. Rear right
3. LSPV
4. Front left
5. Front right
The procedure at each of the bleed point is to pump 2 to 3 times, open the bleed screw by 1/4th turn,
close the bleed screw. Again pump 2/3 times then open the bleed screw keeping the pedal pressed
down. Close the bleed screw and release the pedal. Repeat the operation until no bubbles are coming.
The Bypass valve is inbuilt in the LSPV & it should be bled at the time of bleeding. It is also advisable to
keep the engine running at idling so that the pedal travel is complete.
Refill the fluid in clutch system; ensure that the fluid is getting refilled in system as well as air in the
system is getting pass through the bleed screw on slave cylinder. Tightens bleed screws as soon as
continue flow of fluid starts. Bleed the Clutch System and ensure no air trapped in the system.
While bleeding we suggest that the bleed screw nipple is fitted with a transparent plastic pipe. This pipe
should be submerged in a glass bottle filled with brake fluid. Refer below illustrations.
If any air bubbles are present then it can be easily seen in the container as well as the plastic pipe.
Transparent plastic pipe should be submerged in a glass bottle
The reservoir should be continuously filled with brake oil to avoid air entering thru the empty reservoir.
Always use brake fluid from a new sealed container to do this activity (an open container may have got
contaminated with moisture.)
 Brake fluid to be replaced first at 35000 kms & then at every 40000 kms; or in a year,
whichever is earlier.
In Car repair
Following are the activities carried out in car without removing main aggregates –
• FRONT BRAKE CALLIPER – R&R
• REAR BRAKE SHOE – R&R
• REAR BRAKE WHEEL CYLINDER – R&R
• REAR BACK PLATE – R&R
• BRAKE PEDAL – R&R
• BRAKE PEDAL – CHECK
• BRAKE MASTER CYLINDER – R&R
• BRAKE BOOSTER – R&R
FRONT BRAKE CALLIPER – R&R

Exploded view of Front Brake Calliper
 Apply hand brakes. Place wheel chocks on rear wheel

 Jack up the front of the vehicle and remove the front wheels by removing the wheel nuts.
 Disconnect the hose from the calliper by removing the banjo bolt
1. Loosen and remove the bottom retaining bolt of the guide pin.
2. Remove the calliper sub assembly after removing the top retaining bolt.
(There is no need to remove the Carrier Assembly with pads from the rotor or stub axle.) Clean the
calliper sub assembly externally with alcohol or fresh brake fluid.
3. Remove the calliper pistons from the bore by blowing dry compressed air through the inlet port of
the calliper. Care must be taken to remove both the pistons at a time. Also to avoid the damage to
the pistons, place a wooden block in front of the pistons. (approx. 30 mm thick )
4. Remove the boot.
5. Remove the seal- Pistons from the groove by using a blunt edged connector or feeler gauge. Take
care during seal removal the bore is not damaged.
6. Remove the bleed screw from the calliper body.
Cleaning & Inspection –
All the removed parts should be cleaned properly using fresh brake fluid or alcohol and kept in a clean
tray.
 NEVER USE ANY MINERAL OIL BASE FLUIDS LIKE KEROSENE, DIESEL and PETROL etc.
FOR CLEANING OF REMOVED PARTS.
 DO NOT CLEAN THE BORE OF THE CALLIPER WITH WATER OR STEAM.
The Piston seals are to be lubricated with fresh brake fluid and assembled in to the seal grooves in the
calliper bores. Make sure the seating of this is properly done. Then lubricate the outer surface of the
pistons with fresh brake fluid.
Remove the boot - piston with the help of a screwdriver. Care must be taken not to damage the seat of
the boot in calliper body.
The piston boots are to be lubricated internally with the special grease supplied in Calliper Repair Kits
before it is assembled on the pistons.
Locate the boots on to the calliper pistons. Insert the calliper pistons into the bore & push it gently into
the bore.
Once the piston is home, ensure the fitment of the boot on to the boot groove on the piston.
The piston should be inserted into the bore in a straight position only. If it gets tilted while pushing, there
is a chance that the piston will get jam half way & also can damage the seal.
Once the piston is inserted inside the bore, put a wooden block on the piston & with the help of a ‘C’
Clamp push it inside the bore. Face to face fitment of the boot to be insured. Repeat the procedure for
the other piston.
The wooden block should have the corners rounded to ensure the proper fitment of boot into the
grooves. Otherwise the wooden block can foul against the radius on calliper body.
Replacement of Sliding pin Kit –
1. Loosen and remove the bottom retaining bolt of the guide pin.
2. Remove the top retaining bolt of the locking pin.
3. Remove the guide pin.
4. Remove the locking pin with bush from the carrier.
5. Remove the boot – Pin from the carrier.
Smear the pins and the pin bores with the special grease supplied in Sliding Pin Kit. Apply light grease on
locking pin. Fit the pin boots on to the pins and assemble it on to the carrier bore. Ensure proper location
of the boot lip on to the carrier. Move the pins in and out 3 to 5 times in order to allow for the trapped
air inside the bore to escape.
 Repeat the above procedure for the other side calliper assembly.
REAR BRAKE SHOE – R&R
Jack up the vehicle.

Remove the wheels.
Slacken the adjuster to keep the shoes in a completely retracted position.
Remove the brake drum. (Refer to the instructions

for removal of drum).
Push the hand brake lever away from the shoe rim
and remove the cable from the operating lever
hook.
Using a ‘spring pliers’ remove the shoe return spring at the wheel cylinder end.
Remove the shoe hold down pins from both the shoes using B.I. Shoe hold down spring tool No.
64927118.
Remove both the shoes from back plate along with the abutment end spring.
Slip an elastic band over the wheel cylinder to retain pistons within the cylinder.
Assembly precautions –
 Place one shoe on back plate & assemble pin shoe hold down cup. Fit one end of the shoe return
spring - lower in the slot provided on brake shoe. Assemble the other end of the shoe return spring –
lower in the second shoe. Tilt & place the shoe on the back plate & fit the shoe hold down pin & cup.
While fitting the lower return spring take care that end with the fewer turns is facing the trailing
shoe (towards the rear of the vehicle.)
 Place the auto adjuster assembly between the shoe web slot & hand brake lever slot.
 Assemble shoe return spring –Upper return spring on adjuster lever. Place a screw driver inside the
small hook of the spring & by pulling fit the spring in the shoe slot. Ensure no damage to the Auto
Adjuster Lever.
 Ensure that the auto adjuster lever edge is properly located on tooth of auto adjuster wheel.
 Connect the Parking brake cable in reverse order of dismantling.
Before refitting the brake drum check that the drum thickness has not gone below 1 mm.
A thin brake drum will flex during braking reducing the braking efficiency and also it will cause
improper functioning of the parking brakes.( Useful brake drum Ø is 284 mm)
 Apply brakes few times to adjust the brake shoes.
RELINING THE SHOES – (if applicable)

 Inspect the linings.
 Lining should not be allowed to wear down to the rivet heads.
 If the linings are worn down to rivets, they must be replaced.
 De rivets them carefully.
 Before de riveting, detach the hand brake lever cable from the trailing shoe this may be done as
follows:
 Remove the retaining plate from the pin groove by sliding with a screwdriver.
 Remove spring plate; Lightly tap the pin to remove the Hand brake lever from the shoe.
 If excessive wear on this pin is noticed, it should be replaced.
WHILE DE RIVETING, ENSURE THAT THE HOLES IN THE SHOE RIM ARE NOT ENLARGED.
Clean the shoe rim to ensure a smooth even surface for the lining.
ALWAYS USE GENUINE APPROVED GRADE OF SERVICE REPLACEMENT LININS DURING RELINING,
INCLUDING THE RIVETS SUPPLIED ALONG WITH THE RELINING KIT.
Clamp the lining evenly to the shoe rim and start riveting at the centre and progress outwards to the
ends of the shoe. A flat ended anvil of the correct diameter should be used against the rivet head and
the tubular shank of rivet should be properly clinched.
CARE SHOULD BE TAKEN, SINCE OVER RIVETTING MAY CRACK THE LINING. ENSURE THAT NO CLEARANCE
EXISTS BETWEEN THE LINING AND SHOE RIM.
Fit the hand brake lever to the trailing shoe in the reverse order of removal.
Ensure that the spring plate convex side is towards the retaining plate.
MAKE SURE THAT HAND BRAKE LEVER IS FREE TO OPERATE. DO NOT CONTAMINATE THE LINING
SURFACE WITH OIL OR GREASE.
Refit the shoes in accordance with following instructions:
FITTING SHOES -
Clean the backplate.
 Check the backplate pads for grooving or other damages.
 The pads must be smooth and not corroded.
 If necessary, smoothen the pads with file or emery cloth, but do not remove any more material than
is absolutely necessary and note that each set of these pads should be reduced equally. Clean off the
metal fillings.
NEW SHOE RETRACTING SPRING SHOULD ALWAYS BE FITTED DURING MAJOR OVERHAUL.
 Remove the elastic band over the wheel cylinder.
Check the wheel cylinders for leaks by lifting the dust cover. Check the piston for freedom of movement.
If a leak is suspected from the wheel cylinder or if the piston movement is unsatisfactory the unit must
be overhauled. Refer to “WHEEL CYLINDER SERVICING”. Inspect the wheel cylinder dust covers for cuts,
hardening or other signs of deterioration. If in doubt, the dust cover should be replaced.
Lightly smear high melting point graphite grease to the back plate shoe pads and abutment.
Position the leading shoe (the shoe with the longer lining) on the back plate and fit shoe hold down pin.
Spring cup washer as shown in figure. Ensure that the convex face of each washer is towards the spring.
THE LEADING SHOE (THE SHOE WITH THE LONGER LINING) SHOULD BE FITTED TOWARDS THE FROTN OF
THE VEHICLE. HOOK THE SMALLER SPRING AT THE ABUTMENT END (BOTTOM) OF THE SHOE AND THE
LONGER SPRING TOWARDS THE WHEEL CYLINDER END.
 Position the trailing shoe (the shoe with the shorter lining and hand brake lever) on to the back plate
and hook the smaller spring at the abutment end. Move the hand brake lever and fit the shoe hold
down pin spring and washers.
If the rubber sleeve on the strut is removed or if you are fitting a new rubber sleeve, ensure that the
rubber sleeve is fitted in such a way that the flat portion of the sleeve is towards the straight edge of the
strut. Position the strut between the leading and trailing shoe webs.
Two slots are milled on either end of strut. One of them is wider that the other. The narrow slot should
be on the leading side. Using spring pliers, hook the longer spring on to the trailing shoe.
WHILE USING THE SPRING PLIERS EXTREME CARE MUST BE TAKEN AS OTHERWISE THE LINING MAY BE
DAMAGED.
 Connect the hand brake cable to the hand brake lever in the reverse order of removal.
DO NOT HANDLE THE LINING NORE THAN IS NECESSARY AND BE SURE THAT THEY ARE COMPLETELY FREE
FROM GREASE.
Centralize the brake shoes relative to the backplate, before fitting the drum by lightly tapping in the
required direction.
 Refit the drum and wheel.
 Adjust the brakes as explained under “Brake Adjustment”.
 Check the hand brake cable adjustment in accordance to the vehicle manufacturer’s instructions and
road test.
REAR BRAKE WHEEL CYLINDER – R&R
Exploded view of Rear Brake
When removing or servicing wheel cylinders,

it is necessary to draw fluid from the system
and remove the brake shoes.
Attach a bleed tube to the bleed screw having

first removed its rubber dust cap. Unscrew the
bleed screw ½ to ¾ turn and pump out the
fluid into a suitable container by operating the
brake pedal. Remove the bleed tube. Remove
the brake shoes as explained under “Removal
of shoes”.
Disconnect the bundy pipe from wheel cylinder. Remove the bleed screw. Remove the wheel cylinder
mounting set screws and takeout the wheel cylinder from the backplate.
DISMANTLING OF WHEEL CYLINDER –

Exploded view of Rear Brake – Wheel Cylinder Disassembly
Clean the wheel cylinder externally. Remove the dust covers fitted on wheel cylinder assembly. Push out
the piston seals, air excluders and spring. Discard all rubber parts. Clean the parts thoroughly in fresh
brake fluid or alcohol and place them on a clean sheet of paper.
NEVER CLEAN THE WHEEL CYLINDER OR INTERNAL PARTS WITH KEROSENE, PETROL OR DIESEL.
EXAMINATION OF WHEEL CYLINDER –
Examine the cylinder bore and pistons. If they are not scored, corroded or ridged and are smooth to the
touch, new seals can be fitted. If there is any doubt about the condition of bore, a new wheel cylinder
assembly must be installed.
If the system has been contaminated with mineral fluid of any type, the system should be flushed out
with fresh brake fluid or alcohol and all rubber parts including hoses should be replaced. For example, a
contaminated seal be identified by comparing it with the new seal (but do not let them touch). If the old
one is appreciably larger, seal are serviced, replacement of seals and dust covers from an appropriate
TVS-Girling wheel cylinder kit is strongly recommended.
ASSEMBLING OF WHEEL CYLINDER –
ABSOLUTE CLEANLINESS HAS TO BE MAINTAINED AND CLEAN BRAKE FLUID MUST BE USED. NEVER USE
BRAKE FLUID BLED FROM THE SYSTEM.
 Lubricate the wheel cylinder bore liberally with the fresh brake fluid. Dup new seals, air excluders,
spring and pistons in fresh brake fluid.
 Insert one of the cup seals in the bore, the flat face of the seals towards the open end of the wheel
cylinder.
 Push the seal partly down the bore by inserting the piston behind the seal.
 Reverse the dust cover. Fit the smaller dia. of the dust cover on the neck of the piston.
 Insert the spring assembly in the bore.
 Insert other cap seal (flat face of the seal towards open end of the bore) followed by the second
piston and fit dust cover.
 Fit a rubber band around the pistons to retain them within bore.
REFITTING OF WHEEL CYLINDERS –
Install the wheel cylinder assembly to the backplate and secure with bolts and washers. Tighten the
wheel cylinder mounting bolts to a torque of 6.0 Nm. Fit adapters with a new gasket on to feed port and
tighten to a torque of 27 Nm. Fit the bleed screw (17) and tighten to a torque of 6.0 Nm. Remove the
rubber band from the wheel cylinder. Refit brake shoes as described under “FITTING SHOES” Connect the
bundy pipe to the adaptor port.
 Refit the drum and wheel.

 Bleed the system.
 Adjust the brakes as explained under “BRAKE ADJUSTMENT” and road test.
BRAKE PEDAL – CHECK
The push rod serves as the brake pedal stopper

when the pedal is fully released.
Brake pedal height adjustment should be
performed as follows –
NOTE-
Measure the brake pedal height after making

sure the pedal is fully returned by the pedal
return spring.
Pedal height (L2) must be measured after

starting the engine and increasing the revolution
several times by stepping on the accelerator
pedal.
 Pedal free play (L1): 7-11 mm.
 Height (L2): 164-174 mm.
 Pedal free play must be measured after turning off the engine and stepping on the brake pedal firmly
five times or more.
 If the measured value deviates from the above range, adjust the brake pedal as follows:
- Disconnect the stop lamp switch.
- Loosen the lock nut on the push rod.
- Adjust the brake pedal to the specified height by rotating the push rod in the appropriate
direction.
Clearance -
Between the Switch Housing and the Brake

Pedal (A).
A = 0.5 to 1.00 mm.
BRAKE MASTER CYLINDER – R&R
REMOVING THE MASTER CYLINDER –

Connect a bleed tube to one of the rear wheel cylinders bleed screws and drain the fluid into the
container by pumping the pedal from secondary circuit. Repeat the same by connecting the bleed tube
to one of the caliper bleed screws and collect the fluid from the primary circuit. Disconnect all outlet
pipes from the master cylinder. Loosen master cylinder mounting nuts and remove the same. Now the
master cylinder can be separated from servo.
OVERHAULING OF MASTER CYLINDER –
Master Cylinder should be overhauled once in 12 months or 30,000KMs which occurs earlier. During the
first overhaul all rubber parts should be discarded and replaced with genuine Brakes India Seals provided
in the kit. During second overhaul, all internal guts including plungers and springs should be replaced.
Subsequently, if the condition of the bore is satisfactory, further overhauling should be undertaken, or
else, the whole cylinder should be discarded and fitted with a new assembly.
DISMANTLING OF THE MASTER CYLINDER –

Hold the fluid reservoir and rocking it on either side lift the seal fluid tank in the master cylinder. Remove
the seal fluid tank from the master cylinder body using a connector screw driver with blunt edge. Slightly
push the primary plunger and remove stop pin with gasket.
Without removing the stop pin, if any attempt is made to dismantle the master cylinder, the secondary
plunger cannot be removed. By slightly depressing the primary plunger, remove the cir clip and retainer
washer. Tap the cylinder on a wooden block and remove the primary and secondary plungers along with
the seals, springs etc. By slightly compressing the spring retainer unscrew the connecting screw from
primary plunger. Remove recuperating seal and seal shim from front end of primary plunger. Remove
back seal from the primary plunger using a connector screw driver. Remove secondary spring seal
retainer recuperating seal shim from the front end of the secondary plunger. Remove gland seal from the
secondary plunger using connector screw driver. Discard all the rubber parts. Clean all the parts in fresh
brake fluid or isopropyl alcohol and place them on a clean sheet of paper. Never clean the master
cylinder or internal parts with mineral oil like kerosene, petrol, diesel etc. Be sure that the four holes in
the cylinder body (two recuperating holes and two feed holes visible through the primary and secondary
inlet ports) are clear. This should be determined by blowing dry compressed air only. Do not poke the
holes with sharp instrument.
EXAMINATION OF MASTER CYLINDER AND PARTS -

Examination of master cylinder. If it is not scored, ridged or corroded and is smooth to the touch the
master cylinder can be rebuilt using appropriate parts from the Brakes India repair kit. If there is slightest
doubt about the condition of the bore like having deep groove or pit marks there is no other way than to
fit a new master cylinder. Examine both the plungers for rust, burrs or ridges. Ensure that both primary
and secondary plungers are in satisfactory conditions. Remove the adapter with gasket along with the
valve seal and valve spring from the secondary outlet port. Remove the valve seal separately.
NOTE: If contamination has been observed in the removed seals (normally they would have swollen and
can be compared with new seals from kit which will tell clearly that the size is enlarged) the entire
system. i.e. caliper rubber parts and rear wheel cylinder rubber parts including both front and rear hoses
must be discarded and the entire system should be flushed.
ASSEMBLING THE MASTER CYLINDER -
Dip, plungers and all seals in fresh brake fluid. Fit back seal on to primary plunger groove such that lips
are towards the flange on the plunger which has holes. Fit seal shim and recuperating seal on to the
primary plunger, making sure that the lip of the seal is towards the primary spring. Assemble spring
retainer into primary spring through the larger dia. of the coil in such a way that the small petals are
towards the seal and the big petals are towards the spring. Fix the primary spring small end of the coil on
the primary plunger. Insert the retaining screw through the spring retainer hole. By slightly compressing
the retainer against the primary spring, screw in the retaining screw until the shoulder of the screw
touches the plunger and release the spring retainer. Assemble gland seal in secondary plunger groove
such that the seal lip faces towards the primary spring. Fit seal shim and recuperating seal on the stem
side of the secondary plunger in such a way that the lip of the seal faces towards the secondary spring.
Fit seal retainer.
Fit secondary spring small end of the coil on the stem of the secondary plunger. Lubricate the bore of the
master cylinder liberally with fresh brake fluid. Insert the secondary plunger assembly into the bore
leading the spring end, taking care to guide the seals into the bore without allowing them to get trapped.
Now insert primary plunger assembly in the same manner into bore. Depress the primary plunger and fit
retaining washer and circlip. Make sure that the retainer sits squarely into the master cylinder groove.
Depress the primary plunger with the help of a hylem rod down the bore fully and fit stop pin with new
gasket and tighten it to 6 Nm. Release the hylem rod and watch for quick return of both the plungers.
Actuate a couple of times. Fit valve seal spring small dia into the valve seal and fit the valve seal into the
adapter. Now fit the adaptor with new gasket to the outlet port and tighten them to the torque of
18.0/15.0 Nm Fit seal fluid tank to both inlet ports by liberally lubricating the same with fresh brake fluid.
Position the reservoir into seal fluid tank and slightly rocking them on to either side, press it home.
NOTE:
It is essential that the reservoir filler cap must be removed. The baffle plate taken out from its place and
the breather hold in the cap is cleared and the baffle plate refitted before fitting the filler cap on the
tank.. It is advisable to replace the gasket in the filler cap during very overhaul.
Now the master cylinder is ready for fitment on to the servo. The master cylinder is to be fitted back
onto the servo in the reverse order of removal. Reconnect the outlet pipes.
BRAKE BOOSTER – R&R
The parts available to service the unit are – filters, a non-return valve kit and a service kit. Servicing of
the internal parts is not recommended and if a major fault is apparent, a new complete guaranteed unit
should be fitted. The air filter should be changed every 40,000 KMs or two years when the hydraulic
cylinders or hoses are replaced. If dusty conditions prevail, the rod is retained internally and cannot be
extracted. If the rod or the domed screw on the rod end is damaged the super-vac unit must be replaced
completely.
NO ATTEMPT SHOULD BE MADE TO ADJUST THE DOMED SCREW. THIS IS CORRECTLY SET AT THE
FACTORY/ BY MANUFACTURER AND SHOULD NEVER BE DISTURBED.
REPLACING THE FILTER –
Pull back the dust cover and filter retainer. Hook out the filters and cut to remove from the input rod.
Cut the new filters, press into the neck of the valve body as shown and refit the filter retainer and dust
cover. If the dust cover is damaged fit a new from Brakes India Service Kit.
REPLACING THE NON RETURN VALVE –
Before removing the non return valve note the angle of the same in relation to the front shell so that the
new valve can be fitted in the same position.
 The non return valve fitted is push-in type valve.

 To remove this valve inserts a flat bladed screw driver between rubber grommet and valve cotter.
Leave the valve from the grommet.
 Then remove the grommet from the front shell and make sure that even by mistake you do not drop
the same into the vacuum chamber.
 Fit the new grommet.
 Lubricate the ribs of the new non-return valve with Castor oil and push fully into grommet.
Following are the important alert on the Vehicle braking system –
Brake fluid contains poly glycol ethers and poly glycols. Avoid contact with the eyes. Wash hands
thoroughly after handling. If the brake fluid comes in contact with the eyes, flush the eyes for 15
minutes with cold running water. Get medical attention if irritation persists. If taken internally, drink
water and induce vomiting. Get medical attention immediately. Failure to follow these instructions
will result in personal injury or prove fatal.
• If brake fluid is spilt on the paint work, the affected area must be immediately washed with cold
water.
• The brake fluid reservoir must remain full with new & clean brake fluid at all times during
bleeding.
• Make sure that the pressure bleeding equipment is filled with new brake fluid to the correct
specification.
• To prevent corrosion of the bleed nipple make sure that the bleed nipple cap is installed after
bleeding the brake lines. Failure to follow this instruction may result in seizing of the bleed nipple.
WORKING PRINCIPLE OF BRAKE BOOSTER -
SUPER VAC SERVO / BOOSTER (MECHANICAL)
The brake booster converts mechanical force applied by driver/customer into hydraulic force through
master cylinder. The booster is installed on the firewall/dash panel with brake pedal. It consists of servo
(tandem diaphragm), master cylinder, brake fluid reservoir & low brake fluid warning sensor (FLWI).
The servo consists of 254 mm diameter Single Diaphragm in tandem with push rod connected to brake
pedal. The output rod connects the booster to the tandem master cylinder (TMC).
Servo is connected through vacuum hose to exhaust cam shaft driven vacuum pump.
TMC is designed to operate dual line (front & rear) hydraulic braking system. Brake Fluid is filled in brake
fluid reservoir consisting of two independent chambers working in tandem for brake system and third
independent chamber fro clutch system.
Even if leakage/damage occurs in one chamber or circuit the other remains operative. FLWI is a
contactless sensor connected to instrument cluster to warn the driver if the brake fluid level is closer to
minimum level marked on reservoir.
When the push rod is pressed by brake pedal, air enters through filter in vacuum servo. Power assist is
generated by utilizing the pressure differential between atmospheric pressure and vacuum. The force
gets multiplied based on boost ratio & applied to the output rod going inside master cylinder. The output
road strokes the master cylinder pistons & it generates hydraulic pressure in hydraulic brake lines going
to front & rear braking system independently. The super vac is a vacuum assisted mechanical servo unit
with 5.5: 1 boost ratio.
The Booster is a non- serviceable Unit & it should never be tampered with.
Ensure booster output rod is correctly aligned to the primary piston bore during the coupling of TMC to
the booster. The vehicle is equipped with a Tandem type vacuum booster to assist driver’s effort. This is
achieved by using vacuum from the vacuum pump provided on alternator in case of diesel engines &
from inlet manifold in case of petrol engines.
A single diaphragm is provided between the two shells of the booster & difference of pressure on two
sides of diaphragms (one side vacuum & other side atmospheric pressure) gives mechanical advantage.
This amplifies the driver’s pedal effort while braking. The booster assembly & TMC assembly are coupled
with the help of two nuts & washer. The meting dimensions of booster & TMC are factory set. Hence –
Do not alter the height of the output rod of the Vacuum Booster unit at any stage and ensure Booster
output rod is correctly aligned to the primary piston bore during the coupling of TMC to the booster.
WORKING PRINCIPLE OF LSPV
Description –
When there is a large difference in vehicle weight between laden &

empty conditions; during dynamic braking, the weight on the rear axle
tends to shift towards the frontal direction of vehicle ( known as Load
/ Weight Transfer ) resulting into less vertical load on rear axle which
results into rear wheel locking. LSPV regulates the pressure in the rear
brakes in proportion to the load in vehicle. Hence it is called as Load
Sensing Proportioning Valve.
Installation & Working Principle –

This valve is mounted on vehicle chassis with the help of two bolts
near the rear axle. It is provided with a control spring which is
attached to the rear axle by a special bolt passing through a bush. The
control spring is in pre elongated condition. This spring senses the deflection of rear axle under different
loads & thereby automatically adjusts the operating characteristics (Knee point Pressure) of the valve.
Inlet port of the valve is connected to the delivery port of secondary circuit of TMC & outlet port of the
valve is connected to rear brakes through piping. The front inlet (bypass) port of valve is connected to
the front (secondary) circuit of the TMC to sense the front circuit failure.
Working of LSPV/ Valve – Refer illustration.
Initially the main spring force keeps the

piston pressed in upward direction keeping
outlet port connected to rear circuit open
at seal, till knee point i.e. inlet pressure is
transmitted to the rear circuit through
Area ‘A’
outlet port without any pressure
regulation.
Further pressing of brake pedal increases
the inlet pressure to LSPV & in turn
increases the downward force acting on
Area ‘P’ the piston. (The downward force is created
by hydraulic pressure available in front
circuit acting on area ‘A’.)
The downward movement of the piston

closes the entry of oil from rear inlet port
to outlet port at sealing point ‘P’.
Spring Force ‘F1’ At this point there are three forces acting
on the piston –
1. Upward force ‘F1’ of main spring.

2. Hydraulic force acting on area ‘P’.
3. Hydraulic force acting downwards on area ‘A’.
Since the resultant force is positive, the piston lifts upwards & the Oil entered from Inlet port is fed to
outlet Port & the pressure to outlet increases. Further increase in inlet pressure (due to pressing of brake
pedal) again results into downward movement of piston, thereby closing the outlet at point ‘P’ & results
into drop in outlet pressure. The process continues & follows a fixed pattern.
LSPV Performance in Front Fail Condition (Bypass Function) –
In case of leakages – Internal or External, in the front circuit there is a failure of front circuit & front
callipers become ineffective. Under this emergency condition the bypass valve operates automatically.
This is achieved by following mechanism. In front fail condition the force acting on piston will only be –
1. Control Spring Load ‘F1’ acting upwards

2. Hydraulic force acting on area ‘P’
3. Upward force at ‘O’ ring in front circuit
This keeps the sealing point ‘P’ always open. (Due to the front circuit failure the hydraulic force acting on
area ‘A’ is zero.) So input pressure becomes equal to output pressure. This is called bypass function &
transmits the whole pressure developed in rear circuit of TMC to rear brakes without any pressure
reduction.
Maintenance Precautions –
LSPV is a non-serviceable unit & should be replaced if any problem arises.

During vehicle servicing control spring setting should be checked & corrected if required with the help of
an ‘Installation gauge ‘provided for the purpose. The stretched length of the control spring should be set
at 92.5 mm with the help of Installation gauge.
The correct setting of Control Spring ensures adequate oil pressure to rear circuit & thereby ensures no
skidding of rear wheels. The LSPV setting needs to be carried out if:
1. The axle has been removed.

2. LSPV Valve replaced.
3. Any change in rear suspension carried.
Brake lining or pad : Nominal Dimensions, (mm) (Length x Width x Thickness)
Front wheel 104x48x12
Rear wheel 570x50.8x5.8
Effective area per axle (cm²)
Front axle 199.2
Rear axle 579
Make
Front wheel / axle RBL: R808
Rear wheel / axle SBLL: TVS AF 3691 Opt. SBLL: AF 2873M
Others Not applicable
R808 - Asebestos Free, AF3691 & AF 2873M - Asbestos
Whether asbestos or asbestos-free
free
Brake drum or disc
Front axle ( Disc / Drum ) Disc
Effective diameter (mm) 226
Rear axle ( Disc / drum ) Drum
Effective Diameter, (mm) 282
Master cylinder or brake valve
Make M/s. BCSIL, India
Inner diameter of the master cylinder
23.81
(mm)
Operating stroke (mm) 32
Wheel cylinder / Wheel Chamber
Diameter, (mm)
Front 57
Rear 23.81
Others Not applicable
Type (single acting/double acting)
Front Single Acting
Rear Double Acting
Others
Make of wheel cylinder / slave cylinder M/s. BCSIL, India for BCSIL
Booster
Make M/s. BCSIL, India
Type Single diaphragm Opt. Double Diaphragm
Boost ratio 5.5:1 Opt. 8.0-9.5:1
Size of the booster, (mm) (diameter) 254 Opt. 205+230
Vacuum or air assistance : Vacuum
Pressure kg/cm2 0.9
Type of vacuum pump or air compressor Rotary Vane type - Vacuum Pump
Brake hose (if Hydraulic) Hydraulic
Free Length of hoses Front - 500 +/- 3, Opt. 390 +/- 5 Rear - 400 +/- 3,
Thickness of lining (mm) 1.2
Nominal bore dia mm 3.2
Failure Warning device for braking : FLWI
Type (Visual display/ audible/others) Visual display
Parking brake :
Type (mechanical/spring brake ) Mechanical

Acting on Transmission/wheel Wheels
Control System & Braking wheel Rear
Lining/pad Lining
Name of producer SBLL: TVS AF 3691 Opt. SBLL: AF 2873M
Dimension (mm) 570x50.8x5.8
2
Area (cm ) 579
Material SBLL: TVS AF 3691 Opt. SBLL: AF 2873M
Dia of brake drum/disc (mm) 282
Secondary brake : Foot operated
Type Unfailed circuit of service brake
Brake fluid :
M/S Castrol India Ltd
Make
M/S Shell India Markets Private Ltd
Castrol CUBF-DOT4
Trade name
SHELL BREAK AND CLUCH FLUID DOT-4
Specification/ grade as per Indian standard DOT 4 / I.S.8654,2001
Load distribution : Laden

Unladen kg Laden F/R Unladen F/R
kg
2WD 2WD 2WD 2WD
Front axle 1070 915 0.74 1.105
Rear axle 1440 835 NA NA
Other axles NA NA NA NA
Total 2510 1750 NA NA
Load sensing valve :
Make M/s BCSIL, India
Characteristics Ratio 3.33:1
Identification KBX logo
Anti-lock Braking System
Table of Content
Description……………………………………………………………………….…….……………..........
In Car Repair………..…..……………………………………………………………...........................
Dismantling............................……………………………………………….…………………..……
Technical Specification ………………….………………………………..…………………………….
Description
The system provides three channel ABS pressure control to the front and rear brakes. One channel
controls the rear wheel brakes and the two remaining channels control the front wheel brakes
individually. The main components of the ABS system are
 Speed Sensor Unit (SSU), and the sensor wheels
 Electronic Hydraulic Control Unit (EHCU) consists of
o Electronic Control Unit (ECU) and
o Hydraulic Control Unit (HCU).
When the brake is applied, hydraulic fluid is routed from the Master cylinder to the Front & Rear
Brakes through the ABS-EHCU. The Primary and Secondary outlet of the Master Cylinder is connected
to the EHCU inlet. The EHCU outlet is connected to the Front Left, Front Right and the Rear Brake
circuit. The Electronic Control Unit (ECU) monitors the Front Left, Front Right Wheel Speed and Rear
Differential speed through the Speed Sensors. If a wheel is about to lock-up, the ECU signals the
concerned cartridge (Valve) in the EHCU. The valve modulates the hydraulic brake pressure to the
respective wheels to prevent wheel lock-up.
Function
Brake Stop Light Switch
The ECU keeps monitoring the input from the speed sensors continuously. Though the ABS cycle gets
initiated when the ECU finds a wheel slip condition, the commencement of ABS activity begins when
the ECU receives signal from the Brake Stop Light Switch. In case of Brake Stop Light switch failure,
the ECU still functions, if it finds a deceleration situation and wheel slip situation.
Electronic Hydraulic Control Unit (EHCU)
The Electronic Control Unit (ECU) and the Hydraulic Control Unit (HCU) are integrated together and
called as the EHCU. The HCU consists of a valve body, low-pressure accumulators, inlet valves, outlet
valves, pump, motor and noise attenuators. The operation of the valves and the motor are controlled
by the ECU, which receives input from the Speed sensors. The ECU contains the necessary hardware
and software to process the input signals and trigger the HCU accordingly.
FL-M12X1.5 ECU
FR-M11X1.5
HCU
REAR-M10X1
I/P-Ft.-M10X1
I/P-Rr.-M12X1.5 MOTOR
Isolation
The inlet valve is a Normally Open Valve. Under Normal braking conditions, the fluid from the master
cylinder passes through this inlet valve and reaches the outlet. If the information from the wheel
speed sensors indicates excessive wheel deceleration (imminent lockup), the first step in the antilock
sequence is to isolate the brake pressure being applied by the driver. Thus, with the inlet valves
closed, further unnecessary increases in the brake pressure will be prohibited. If required the valve is
pulsed for pressure increase in the brakes.
When the brake switch opens, the inlet valve is turned off and fluid may return to the master cylinder.
Dump
The outlet valve is a Normally Closed Valve. During an ABS cycle, if the brake pressure has to be
reduced to recover the wheel from slipping, the valve is opened for certain duration and accordingly
the pressure at the brakes gets reduced. If required, the valve is opened and closed several times, to
control the deceleration of the wheel.
Accumulator
During an ABS cycle, when the outlet valve opens to reduce the pressure at the brakes, the extra fluid
from the brakes gets dumped into the Accumulator. This fluid is used to re-apply pressure to the
brakes, if required during the ABS cycle. Remaining fluid returns to the reservoir when the brake is
OFF. A portion of the fluid also primes the pump. At the end of the antilock stop, when the driver
releases the brake pedal, the motor will remain running for a short time to help drain any fluid in the
Accumulator.
Pump & Motor
The pump provides the volume needed during the “Re-apply” stage and is operated by a DC Motor. At
the end of the antilock stop, when the driver releases the brake pedal, the motor will remain running
for a short time to help drain any fluid in the Accumulator.
Noise Attenuator
During an ABS cycle, when the brake pressure is increased, by pulsing the inlet valve and pumping
fluid from the Accumulator, an Attenuator (Rubber damper) takes up the pulsations and minimizes the
pedal pulsation and Noise.
Wheel Speed Sensor
The Wheel Speed Sensor works on Hall effect principle. These sensors can be used to find the speed
of any rotating member. The sensor reads the tooth on the Toner Ring and produces an output signal
proportional to the associated wheel speed.
Cluster Lamps
The ECU drives the warning lamps in the cluster, whenever there is a malfunction. Under normal
conditions, during ignition ON, the lamps will be ON for few seconds and then go OFF. If the lamps
continue to glow, then the ABS system needs to be diagnosed to find the fault. Before connecting the
Diagnostic connector, check if the Parking brake is ON. If yes, release the parking brake and see if the
bulbs are OFF. If not, then continue with ABS system Diagnostics.
Diagnostic Connector
The Diagnostic Connector is a standard OBD II connector. Whenever a diagnosis needs to be

performed, the Diagnostic Tool has to be plugged into the Diagnostic connector. The diagnostic tool
has to be switched ON and then the instructions appearing in the tool has to be followed. Once the
communication is established the ECU will send the Trouble code or Fault ID details to the tool.
Pedal Feel
During an ABS cycle, when the inlet valve is activated and cuts-off the communication between the
master cylinder and the brakes, the pedal becomes very hard. This is expected and normal. Also,
during the pressure increase sequence, when the inlet valve is pulsed open to allow master cylinder
pressure to reach the brakes, the driver may feel slight pedal pulsation, or pedal drop. This is normal
and expected
Dynamic Rear Proportioning. (DRP)
DRP controls rear brake pressure to maximize brake balance efficiency. The activation of DRP is based
on wheel slip comparison of the front vs. rear. The control is modified to take care of the conditions
when the wheels are turned and negotiating rough roads. The rear brake pressure is increased or
decreased based on wheel slip (front vs. rear). DRP resumes control after ABS activation.
The advantage of DRP is that it assures the vehicle remains rear skid limited under all loading
conditions. It is able to achieve a brake balance that is more efficient than a hydraulic proportioning
valve. The Operation of DRP goes unnoticed by the driver in most conditions, as there is not pedal
pulsation when the DRP is active.
System Operation
Normal Braking
During normal brake application, pressure is applied through the brake pedal and fluid comes from
the master cylinder into the EHCU. The fluid travels through the normally open inlet valve into the
brakes. The pump does not turn on, and the LPA and attenuators are empty of residual pressure.
Even though the ABS is passive during normal braking, the EHCU constantly monitors wheel sensor
inputs for rapid deceleration. If the system were disabled, the driver would always have foundation
brakes. The normally open inlet cartridge and normally closed outlet cartridge would remain in these
positions to allow fluid pressure to reach the brakes.
ABS Braking
If the information from the wheel speed sensors indicates excessive wheel deceleration (imminent
lockup), the first step in the antilock sequence is to isolate the brake pressure being applied by the
driver. Thus, with the inlet valves closed, further unnecessary increases in the brake pressure will be
prohibited. Once the pressure is isolated, it must be reduced to get the wheels rolling once again.
This is accomplished by dumping a portion of the brake fluid pressure into an Accumulator. A portion
of the fluid also primes the pump. The outlet cartridges are operated independently to control the
deceleration of the wheel. To obtain optimum braking, the reapply sequence is initiated.
The isolation valve is momentarily pulsed open to allow master cylinder and pump pressure to reach
the brakes. The driver may feel slight pedal pulsation, or pedal drop. This is normal and expected.
At the end of the antilock stop, when the driver releases the brake pedal, the motor will remain
running for a short time to help drain any fluid in the Accumulator. While the fluid drains back into
the system, the Accumulator springs help force the piston back to their original position. When the
brake switch opens, the inlet valve is turned off and fluid may return to the master cylinder.
During antilock braking, the solenoid valves contained in the HCU are opened and closed as needed.
The valves modulate the brake pressure during an ABS cycle.
The brake pressure modulation occurs in three stages – Pressure decrease, pressure hold and pressure
increase or “Re-apply” stage. During the ABS cycle, the Accumulators in the valve body store extra
fluid released to the system. The pump provides the volume needed during the “Re-apply” stage and
is operated by the motor
Isolation Mode (Pressure Hold)
Every time the driver applies the brakes, the ECU is signaled to prepare for a possible ABS event. If too
much braking force for the given road conditions is generated, the ECU reads the information from the
speed sensor(s) as excessive wheel deceleration, and begins the ABS sequence.
The first step is to isolate the brake pressure being applied by the driver. The ECU closes the isolation
valve, preventing additional brake fluid pressure from reaching the brake circuit(s). This is achieved by
energizing the coil that is directly over the isolation valve causing the plunger to close the orifice,
shutting off fluid flow to the locked wheel(s). Although each channel of the system can operate
independently, once any front wheel sees excessive deceleration, both front isolation valves are
closed.
Dump Mode (Pressure Release)
Once the pressure is isolated, it must be reduced to allow the wheels to roll again. This is
accomplished by dumping a portion of the fluid pressure into a Low Pressure Accumulator (LPA).
With very short pulses of opening and closing the dump valve(s), brake fluid is removed from the
channel(s) and dumped into an LPA. This lowers brake pressure at the brake(s) and allows the
wheel(s) to begin rolling again. Dump valves of each channel are operated independently.
The ABS system is still in isolation mode during the dump mode. The motor is turned on to allow the
pumps to remove brake fluid from the LPA’s. A portion of the fluid stored in the LPA’s is used to prime
these pumps.
Reapply Mode (Pressure Increase)
The reapply mode is initiated to increase brake pressure. The isolation valve is momentarily opened
to allow master cylinder and pump pressure to reach the brakes. This controlled pressure rise
continues until excessive wheel deceleration occurs or until the brake pressure equals the master
cylinder output pressure. The driver may feel pedal pulsations, which is an operating characteristic of
this type of system. The attenuator located in the HCU, acts as a shock absorber to soften this
feedback.
As pressure is reapplied to the brakes, the wheels begin to slow down. If the ECU detects excessive
wheel deceleration again, the ABS cycle will repeat. This controlled cycle occurs quickly, allowing
several ABS cycles to occur every second. It is a much faster and more controlled method of “pumping
the brake pedal”. The cycles will continue until the driver releases the brake pedal or the ECU
determines ABS is no longer necessary.
Brake Release
At the end of the ABS event, the motor will remain running for a short period of time to allow the
pumps to remove brake fluid from the LPA’s. As the fluid returns to the master cylinder, the LPA
return spring forces the piston to its normal (home) position
NOTE: The three modes mentioned above, do occur but not necessarily in the order listed every
time.
INSTALLATION
Front Wheel Speed Sensor (WSS)
A view of the WSS is shown in the Figure below.
1. Insert the clips into the anchoring points A4 – A1.

2. Install the WSS (2) into the mounting hole in the Knuckle (3).
3. Insert the WSS mounting bolt (1) to the Knuckle (3) and tighten to the required Torque.
4. Reconnect the electrical connector (4).
Ensure that the air-gap (Between the sensor read face & Toner Ring) is within 0.6 to 2.0 mm. If the
gap exceeds this value, the performance of the sensor is affected; hence the performance of ABS will
be inhibited. The WSS is not adjustable. If the air-gap is not within these specifications, then either
the WSS or other components may be damaged.
Front Sensor:
Do’s Don’ts
Install the sensor into the mounting hole in Do not push it in with any hard material.
the Knuckle.
Insert the Sensor mounting bolt & tighten to Do not leave the sensor loose.
the required Torque. It will lead to vibration issues and lead to
malfunction of the ABS system.
Insert the clips into the anchoring points. Do not leave the cable loose.
If loose, it may foul with other vehicle parts
during vehicle running condition or during a turn.
Ensure that the sensor is seated all the way In case the Sensor does not fully get seated, do
into the mounting surface. This will ensure not hammer it inside the hole.
that the gap between the sensor read face & If the gap exceeds the specified value, the
Toner Ring is within the specifications. performance of the sensor is affected; hence the
performance of ABS will be inhibited.
The sensor is not adjustable.
Rear Wheel Speed Sensor (Differential Case)
Please refer Figure below, showing a view of the Rear Differential Speed Sensor.
1. Install O-Ring on sensor (if removed). Ensure that the air-gap (Between the sensor read
2. Insert sensor (6) in differential face & Toner Ring) is within 0.6 to 2.0 mm. If the
housing (7). gap exceeds this value, the performance of the
sensor is affected; hence the performance of ABS
3. Install the Sensor mounting bolt (8) will be inhibited. The WSS is not adjustable. If the
tighten to the required Torque. air-gap is not within these specifications, then
4. Connect harness to sensor (9). either the WSS or other components may be
damaged.
5. Lower the vehicle.
Rear Sensor:
Do’s Don’ts
Remove the Protective Plug fitted in the Sensor Do not push it in with any hard material or
mounting hole in the Differential housing. forcefully with hand or hammer.
Clean the surface. Ensure there are no burr or
foreign particle in the mounting location.
Insert sensor in differential housing.
Insert the Sensor mounting bolt & tighten to the Do not leave the sensor loose.
required Torque. It will lead to vibration issues and lead to
malfunction of the ABS system.
Ensure that the ‘O’ ring in the sensor has gone in In case the Sensor does not fully get seated, do
fully and the sensor is seated all the way into the not hammer it inside the hole.
mounting surface. This will ensure that the gap If the gap exceeds the specified value, the
between the sensor read face & Toner Ring is performance of the sensor is affected; hence the
within the specifications. performance of ABS will be inhibited.
The sensor is not adjustable.
Electronic Hydraulic Control Unit (EHCU)
1. If the Grommet (18) has been removed, install it in the Bracket (16).
2. Assemble the EHCU (10) in the Bracket (16).
3. Insert the EHCU mounting bolt and washer (17) in the Bracket (16) and tighten it to the specified
torque.
4. Place the EHCU assembly with the Bracket (16) in the vehicle.
5. Insert the Bracket Mounting bolts (14 & 15) and tighten to the specified torque.
6. Re-connect the electrical harness connector (12) to the ECU (11).
7. Re-connect the brake lines (13) to the EHCU (10) and tighten to the specified torque.
8. Re-connect the battery cable to the battery.

9. Bleed the brake system.
NOTE: If the ECU is being replaced with a new ECU, it must be reprogrammed with the use of a scan
tool.
Installation of ECU
1. Insert the ECU (11) in the HCU (10).
2. Insert the ECU mounting screws (a,b,c & d) and hand tighten in the order a,b,c and d as shown in
the Figure.
3. Then tighten to the specified torque in the same order.
4. Re-connect the electrical harness connector (12) to the ECU (11).
5. Re-connect the battery cable to the battery.
Do’s and Don’ts
ECU Handling:
Proper electro-static discharge (ESD) handling precautions must be observed, especially near
exposed printed circuit board. Reference JEDEC (Joint Electron Device Engineering Council)
standard 625-A. People and equipment should be controlled to guarantee the modules
maximum ESD exposure does not exceed 1.5 KV.
Proper handling must be observed in order to keep the cure in place gasket (CIPG) and thermal
pads free of contamination or damage. Non-compliance or damage may result in a
compromised seal or loss of module function.
Avoid spilling corrosive brake fluid on wiring.
General Don’ts:
• Do not expose any part of the ABS control system to excessive heat or flame.
• Do not use any ABS component if it has signs of being dropped or damaged.
• Do not repair any ABS component including wire harness and connectors. Replace them, entirely,
with new components.
EHCU:
Do’s Don’ts
Ensure that the correct EHCU as per the vehicle If wrong part is used, it will lead to
configuration is taken for installation. deteriorated / Erratic performance of ABS.
Veh. Configuration BI P/N
M1 2WD 29061011
M1 4WD 29061012
N1 2WD 29061016
N1 4WD 29061013
Ensure the EHCU assembly is properly fastened – 2 If the bracket is not fastened properly, it will
fastening on the wheel arch & one fastening on the lead to vibration issues and lead to
sidewall. Apply specified tightening torque. deteriorated / Erratic performance of the
ABS system.
Connect the inlet & outlet brake tubes in the correct Beware of tube-nut wrong threading during
ports. brake line installation.
Match the pipe nut colour to the coloured rings in the
port identification label.
Proper tube routing is essential for

performance and safety of the system.
Use Plastic clips for brake tube routing. Do not use metal clip.
It will lead to NVH issues.
Tighten the pipe nuts to the specified torque. Use proper torque when attaching all
fasteners and brake lines.
Electrical Connections:
• Wiring routing issues and loose connections are common causes of ABS service calls.
• Ensure proper electrical connections are made at sensors (FL, FR & Rear) and EHCU assembly.
• Ensure that the Diagnostic Connector is secure in its place.
SYSTEM BLEEDING
ABS system bleeding requires conventional bleeding methods plus use of the scan tool. The
procedure involves performing a base brake bleeding, followed by use of the scan tool to cycle and
bleed the HCU pump and valves. A second base brake bleeding procedure is then required to remove
any air remaining in the system.
1. Perform base brake bleeding.

2. Connect scan tool to the K-Line Diagnostic Connector.
3. Follow the instructions displayed.
4. When scan tool displays “BRAKE BLEEDING” disconnect scan tool and proceed.
5. Perform base brake bleeding a second time.
6. Top off master cylinder fluid level and verify proper brake operation before moving vehicle.
• Diagnostic & Testing of ABS
The ABS performs several self-tests every time the ignition switch is turned on and the vehicle is
driven. The ECU monitors the system inputs and outputs circuits to verify the system is operating
properly. If the ECU senses a malfunction in the system it will set a DTC (Fault Code) into memory and
trigger the warning lamp. If the warning lamps in the cluster glow, then Diagnosis should be
performed immediately by an authorized service person. The diagnostic tool has to be connected to
the Diagnostic Connector C1, found below the steering column & the tool has to be switched ON.
Follow the instructions appearing in the tool. Once the communication is established the ECU will
send the Trouble code or Fault ID details to the tool. Please refer Appendix-1 for trouble shooting.
• The scan tool is used to diagnose the

Antilock Braking System.
• For test procedures refer to the Diagnostic

Manual.
SERVICE
Serviceable Parts List
None of the child parts in the ABS assembly are serviceable. Following list gives the description of
components, which can be replaced.
Sl. No. Description

1 ABS Assembly
2 EHCU Assembly
3 HCU with Motor
4 ECU with Screws
5 Mounting bracket – EHCU
6 Mounting Accessories
7 WSS – Front
8 Rear differential Speed Sensor
EHCU Removal
1. Place a heavy rod on the brake pedal, such that it presses the pedal. (This is to keep pressure on
the brake system.)
2. Disconnect the battery cable from the battery.
3. Disconnect the brake lines (13) to the EHCU (10).
4. Disconnect the electrical harness connector (12) from the ECU (11).
5. Remove the Bracket Mounting bolts (14 & 15).
6. Lift the EHCU assembly with the Bracket (16) from the vehicle.
7. Remove the EHCU mounting bolt (17) from the Bracket (16).
8. Remove the EHCU (10) from the vehicle.
REMOVAL OF ECU
1. Disconnect the battery cable from the battery.

2. Disconnect the electrical harness connector (12) from the ECU (11).
3. Remove the ECU mounting screws (a,b,c & d) from the ECU.
4. Remove the ECU (11) from the EHCU (10).
WSS Removal
Front Wheel Speed Sensor (WSS-FL & FR)

2. Disconnect the electrical connector (4).
3. Detach the clips from the anchoring
points A4 – A1.
4. Remove the WSS mounting bolt (1)
from the Knuckle (3)
5. Remove the WSS (2) from the Knuckle
(3).
Rear Differential Speed Sensor
1. Raise vehicle on hoist.

2. Disconnect the electrical connector (9)
3. Remove the Sensor mounting bolt (8) from the Differential Housing (7)
4. Remove the Sensor (6) from the Differential Housing (7).
ABS Process Do’s and Don’ts
Service Bay / Ware-House / Material In-warding:
Rough handling: Modules should not be tossed into vehicles or bounced around prior to assembly.
ABS modules have sensitive components that may be influenced by rough handling.
Mating features such as connector pins and threaded ports can be damaged and become out of
tolerance.
Drop Policy: If a module is dropped from more than approximately 12” height, it should be scrapped.
Impact drivers: some Use of screwdrivers that can generate high frequency vibrations can affect
certain components in the module.
Index of Common Terms Used

DTC: Diagnostic Trouble Codes
ABS Lamp: It is the yellow lamp with the ABS written (photo to be inserted)
Parking Brake Lamp: Parking brake lamp & FLWI lamp is a combined in one red lamp. The ABS errors
will also be shown through this red lamp.
DRP: Dynamic Rear Proportioning
ABS: Anti Lock Braking System
• ABS is active only in the extreme condition when the front wheel lock is taking place. In
normal operation the braking does not activate the ABS functionality. Also the brake pedal
pulsation when the ABS is active is normal
• DRP is equivalent to electronic LSPV. It is active only when the rear wheels are tending to
lock.
• When the lock takes place normally the rear tend to lock first hence initially the DRP kicks
in. Then the second stage if the front is locking then the ABS also becomes active.
• Under severe panic braking the front wheels can lock first or all the four wheels will tend to
lock. Under this condition the ABS will come into operation immediately.
• Clear all the DTC codes before giving the vehicle back to the customer. Any unhealed code
should be attended and then only the vehicle to be released.
• It is recommended that whenever the vehicle reports to the workshop, the DTC codes
should be checked.
• The status of the code (healed or not present) when it came to the workshop as well as
before leaving the workshop, should be printed. (Use the print command in the diagnostic,
converts to a PDF file, later the PDF file to be printed. This record should be kept in the
vehicle history and can be useful later.)
• After clearing all the ABS related errors drive the vehicle and do at least 5 ABS braking
application and check if any errors are recorded. Suggestion is that the vehicle speed should
not exceed 50 Km/hr when doing the panic braking to check ABS performance.
WSS: Wheel Speed Sensor.
Front Toner Wheel: Is mounted inside the disc.

Rear Toner Wheel: Is mounted on to differential case assembly & serviced with differential case &
not serviced individually.
EOL: End of the Line (Only in the assembly line)
ISO: Isolation valve.
Description Torque (N.m)

EHCU Assembly Mounting bolts 55 – 60
EHCU Mounting bolt 10 – 12
ECU – CIM Screws 2.2 – 3.6
EHCU Port - Brake Line Fittings 10 - 12
Front - Wheel Speed Sensors Mounting Bolt 17 - 23
Rear Differential Speed Sensor Mounting Bolt 17 - 23
Wheels and Tyres
Table of Content
Description……………………………………………………........................................…………….
In Car Repair………………………………………………….........................................……………
Description
WHEELS - The Standard equipment wheels are with a suitable wheel rim size of 6.50 J x 16.
TYRES –
• The tyres fitted in SUV vehicles are radial tubeless tyres and with a suitable wheel disc.
- The tyre size is P 235/70 R 16
• The tyres fitted in SC/DC vehicles are radial tubeless tyres and with a suitable wheel disc.
- The tyre size is P 245/75 R 16
Explanation- In tyre Specification P 235/70 R 16 - The 235 is the width of the tyre in mm at the
designated air pressure and load. The / 70 is the aspect ratio of the tyre. (Ratio between the height and
width here the height is 0.70 times the width.
The basic concept in the structure of the radial tubeless tyres is the absence of tubes within them. The
external structure is similar to other tire types but the inner structure differs. The tubeless tyres are
solely filled with air, and the air inside the tyre is sealed by lining the inner wall with an airtight and
impermeable membrane. The membrane is made by halo butyl/chloro-butyl, and the butyl lining reduces
air permeation.
The radial tubeless tires play an important role in vehicle handling and riding characteristics and a change
of tire should be as per specifications.
The air pressure maintained in the tires has direct influence on fuel average, braking and on riding
characteristic, essential to maintain tire pressure as recommended.
The tubeless tyres are comparatively less vulnerable to heat and friction generated between the tyres
and the road surface which helps to increase the life of the tyres. It also improves acceleration and fuel
efficiency because these are lighter and have lower rolling resistance than the tube type tyres. In case of
tyre puncture you can safely drive with the tubeless tyres to certain distance before the tyre loses the air
completely.
WHEEL REPLACEMENT –
Wheels to be replaced if they found bend, have excessive lateral/ radial run-out, have elongated bolt
holes or if they are heavily rusted.
When replacing the wheels ensure that it must be equivalent to the original equipment wheels in load
capacity, diameter, and rim. A wheel of improper size or type may affect wheel and bearing life, brake
cooling, vehicle ground clearance and tyre clearance to body and chassis.
TYRE REPLACEMENT -
When replacing the tyres ensure that original equipment type tyres should be used. Refer to the tyre
Placard. Replacement tyres should be of the same size. Use of any other size or type tyre may affect ride
characteristic, vehicle handling, speedometer/odometer calibration, vehicle ground clearance and tyre or
snow chain clearance to the body and chassis.
Trouble Shooting
 Maintain the correct tyre

pressure.
 Do the tyre rotation.
Under Inflation
Lack of rotation
Rapid wear at Shoulder
Excessive cornering.
 Maintain the correct tyre pressure.
Rapid wear at centre Over inflation
 Maintain the correct tyre pressure.
Cracked Treads Under Inflation
Check and adjust:
 Hub end play
 Camber to be checked and

adjusted.
One Edge Wear

Excessive camber
Excessive cornering
 Check & correct Toe In
 Check the chassis bend
 If tyre rotation not carried out as

per schedule. Do the tyre rotation.
Feathered Edge Wear

Incorrect Toe In
No tyre rotation
 Balance the tyres.
 Check the brake drum roundness.
 Check jammed wheel cylinder/

calipers.
Bald Spots
Unbalanced tyre
 Check the wheel bearings.
• Out of round brake
drums in rear.
 Avoid driving with sudden brake
• Faulty wheel bearings. locking.
• Sudden braking.
Lack of rotation or Worn or  Tyre rotation.
Out of Alignment Suspension  Check & replace the suspension
components.
Wavy / Scalloped wear
Side Wall crack- radial/ Kerb damage/ Stone hit

diagonal
Side wall crack Run Flat

circumferential / tyre (It is more obvious from
bulging inside )
• Higher than recommended pressure can cause: Hard steering, tyre damage and rapid tread
wear at centre of tyre.
• Unequal pressure on same axle can cause: Uneven braking, Steering pulling. Valve caps to be
used to avoid dust and water entry.
• Lower than recommended pressure can cause: Tyre shriek on turn, Hard Steering, Rapid and
uneven wear on the edges of the tread, Tyre cord breakage, High tyre temperature.
Care of the System
The tyre is one of the most abused components hence maintaining the tyre is of utmost
importance. The tyre pressure should be checked once in a fortnight. (Once in a week during
summer) The tyre pressures should always be checked & corrected in cold condition. The valve
should be always covered with the valve cover. An opened valve can have the valve needle stuck
in a partial position causing the tyre to bleed during operation.
The tyre pressure specified can cater to continuous high-speed performance. Hence it is not
advisable to increase the tyre pressure before going on a high speed run.
The practice of keeping the tyre pressure lower in summer is actually detrimental to the tyre. To
understand that let us examine what happens – if lower pressure is kept. Then the sidewall
flexing is going to be more hence the heat generation will also be higher which will result in a
faster increase in tyre pressure. So the wear rate is going to be higher.
Similarly the practice of bleeding the tyre pressure to reduce the pressure after a long run can
cause the sidewall to crack and in a worst scenario sidewall bulging.
Before going on a long drive it is a good practice to remove the stones/pebbles trapped in the
treads. The probability of a puncture due to stone trapped and digging through the crown once
it gets heated up is reduced.
It should also be kept in mind that a radial tyre with higher pressure is more prone to burst
under impact from stone at high speed or kerb impact. Lower air pressure results in higher
sidewall flexing and drastically increases the chance of sidewall damage / cut in bad roads.
Wheel balancing should be done at least every 20,000 KMs. It is compulsory to do a balancing of
the wheel after any puncture.
The tyre rotation should be carried out every 10,000 KMs. Refer SOP.
Wheel alignment is recommended. If the wheel disc is having any deformation particularly in the bead
seating area then do not wait until the mileage has covered- get it balanced.) In case of abnormal tyre
wear refer to the Trouble shooting section and take the corrective action suggested.
The grooves in the tyre are used to pump out the water between the road and the tyre. In case the water
is not pumped out the tyre will ride on water. Since the coefficient of friction of water is very low that
will result a sliding action. Obviously the amount of water which the tyre can pump out between the
ground and the tyre will depend on the depth of the groove which is acting as a channel. The tyre
manufacturers recommend that a minimum tread depth of 1.6 mm should be present.
Once the tread depth is less than 1.6 mm it is recommended to replace the tyres. It is not advisable to
retread the tyre. Any kind of lubricant on the tyre is detrimental as it promotes degradation of rubber
and also increases the chance of hardening. Normally this happens when a mechanics rubs the spare oil
or grease on to the sidewall of the tyre.
1. Inspect the tires for incorrect inflation and uneven wear which indicates a need for balancing,
rotation or vehicle alignment.
2. Tires should be frequently checked for cuts, stone bruises, abrasions, blisters and for objects that are
embedded in the tread.
3. Frequently check the condition of the wheels, and replace any wheel that is bent, cracked, dented or
has excessive runout.
4. Frequent inspections are recommended when rapid or extreme temperature changes occur, when
road surfaces are rough or littered with foreign material.
5. Check the tire tread depth, if the depth is reduced to 0.06” (1.6mm) or less, replace the tyres.
Refer Below chart for correct Tyre pressure in SUV/SC/DC –
COLD TYRE INFLATION PRESSURE - SUV

TYRE SIZE P235/70 R16
UNLADEN LADEN
FRONT REAR FRONT REAR
psi 32 32 32 32
Kg/cm. sq. 2.2 2.2 2.2 2.2
*LADEN – FULLY LOADED VEHICLE.

# PARTIAL LADEN - Up to 5 persons + 40 kg luggage
COLD TYRE INFLATION PRESSURE - SC

PARTIAL LADEN LADEN
psi 2.0 2.1 2.1 2.5
Kg/cm. sq. 29 30 30 36
COLD TYRE INFLATION PRESSURE - DC

PARTIAL LADEN LADEN
psi 2.0 2.1 2.1 2.5
Kg/cm. sq. 29 30 30 36
*LADEN – FULLY LOADED VEHICLE.

# PARTIAL LADEN –
SINGLE CAB – Up to 2 persons + 500 kg luggage.
DOUBLE CAB – Up to 3~4 persons + 300 kg luggage.
• Tyre Rotation – Refer below illustrations for tyre rotation.
Tyre Rotation Layout SUV - Schematic
1. Check & ensure tyre pressure in all five wheels.

2. Rotate (swap the positions) the wheels as shown in the above sample diagram.
(Tyre rotation recommended at every 10000 kms.)
• Driver side rear goes to Driver side front position.
• Driver side front wheel goes to Co-Driver side rear position.
• Co-Driver side rear wheel goes to spare wheel position.
• Spare wheel goes to Co-Driver side front position.
• Co-Driver side front wheel goes to Driver side rear position.
Similarly follow the below illustration for Tyre rotation in SC and DC vehicles.
Tyre Rotation Layout SC/ DC - Schematic
Air pressures should be checked when the tyres are cold. Otherwise, you may get inaccurate results.
Never under-inflate or over-inflate tyres. Under-inflation may cause the rim to slip on the tyre bead,
resulting in an accident or damage to the tyre or rim. Over-inflation may cause the tyre to burst.
Do not mix different ply-type-ratings and/or different brands, construction or tread patterns of tyres on
your Mahindra vehicle and do not use tyres other than the manufactures recommended size. DO not use
the alloy wheels / rims other than the recommended. Doing so may cause dangerous handling
characteristics resulting in loss of control.
In case the vehicle reports for wheel wobbling then the sequence of balancing & rotation should be as
follows:
Important: Before going ahead with the procedure; do road tests and at that time:-
Please remember that the road shocks can come to the steering wheel while going over rough or uneven
patch.
The important point is that after the road shock is over then it should not continue to vibrate.
Preliminary Stage:
Mark each tyre assembly position with respect to the hub/ axle shaft.
Balance all the tyre and place it back it each wheel in the same position.
(Tyre pressure for all wheel- Check recommendations)
Now follow the sequence of Stage A, Stage B, Stage C. Road test after each stage:
If the stages of A, B, & C are done together then improvement may not be noticed. In worst case scenario
the problem may get aggravated.
Before dismounting the wheel, mark the position of the wheel & tyre assembly with
respect to the hub (use any wheel mounting bolt as a reference and applies a paint
mark to hub with respect to disc + tyre.
Check the wheel balancing.

(Also refer Note 1)
If the imbalance is < 40 C After B - If after If the imbalance

road test no change
gm. is > 40 gm
in wobbling; then
Rotate the assembly
by 180 degree in
clockwise direction
Rotate the wheel assembly & check the

imbalance
Imbalance location should not change

more than 80 mm in circumference.
The max imbalance can be 40 gms
While mounting the wheel assembly, rotate the wheel assembly by 180 degrees.
Now the matching marks will be opposite
Flow chart to attend Vibration Concern
Vibration observation at certain speed
Loosen & re-torque all Suspension

Joints, Body Mounts, Engine Mounts,
Seat Mountings & Transmission
mounts as specified in manual.
Not Resolved Resolved
Stop
Check Shock Absorber for dampening value

(by hand feel), Suspension Ball Joints &
Steering Intermediate Shaft for play
Replace the part (s), All parts are OK,

if required Not Resolved
Resolved Loosen & re-torque

Propeller Shaft
mountings
Stop
Not Resolved Resolved
Rotate the tyre Stop

one by one from
Front to Rear
Resolved Not Resolved
Stop Swap the tyre(s)

one by one with
good vehicle tyre(s)
Resolved, Change Not Resolved, Call

the Particular tyre Technical Support Cell
In Car Repair
 The tyres should be removed and then only be attended for puncture or damage. In situ repairs are
not recommended.
 For removal of the tyre from the vehicle the correct jacking points to be used.
 Never go under the vehicle when it is jacked up. This jack is meant for only raising the wheel. For any
under body work/inspection support the vehicle on vehicle stands
 The vehicle is fitted with Rod guard run flat system.
 The vehicle can be driven at speed of 37 Km/ hr with flat tyre.
Removal & Refitting of the tyre -
• Tyre puncture
 Recommended air pressure in cold should be maintained in all the tyres –
 In case of a run flat due to puncture the tyre should be immediately removed.
 The Km runs of the removed tyre to be recorded in the run flat record card. (Encl.)
 The spare tyre to be fitted on the vehicle.
 The punctured tyre not be dismantled from the rim.
 The punctured tyre to be repaired only by Tiptop “Super Radial Anchor Seal Kit” as per prescribed
procedure.
 Repaired tyre to be inflated to the recommended air pressure.
 The repaired tyre to be kept as a spare wheel or fitted back to the vehicle.
REMOVING THE WHEEL -

1. Deflate the tyre.
2. Break the outboard bead. With the help of the tyre spreader raise the bead and put the wooden
blocks to hold the bead at two points adjacent to each other.
3. Remove the thumb screw.
4. Loosen both the ends of the roller half interface.
5. Remove both the roller halves.
6. Remove the “C” shaped runner from the rim.
IMPORTANT INSTRUCTIONS -
1. Always apply a good bead lubricant to the tyre beads while installing or removing the Run flat
system, this will ensure that the beads will not be damaged.
2. The installation and removing should be done on a good tyre changing machine.
3. Each Rod guard Run flat System should be fully assembled and completely covered when not in use.
This is necessary to prevent contamination of grease, rusting of metal parts, and other changes
caused by temperature, sunlight and moisture.
Wheel Rim :
Size
Front 6.50 J x 16
Rear 6.50 J x 16
Tyres :
Tyre size designation including ply rating
SUV (All Tyres) 235/70 R 16
SC/ DC (All Tyres) 245/ 75 R 16
Speed index
SUV Q
SC/ DC Q
Minimum Load Capacity index / rating
SUV 103
SC/ DC 111
Inflation pressure – Unladen (kg/cm2 / kPa)
Front 2.46
Rear 2.46
Wheel Rim Offset
SUV 55
SC/ DC 55
Description Torque in Nm (lb-ft)
Wheel Nut (Normal Disc) 95 + 5 Nm
Wheel Nut (Alloy Wheels) 100 + 5 Nm
Body Mounts 60 ± 5 Nm
Cargo Box Mounting Bolts 60 ± 5 Nm
Wheel nut, Wheel cap and Hub cap :

Wheel Nut
Size M 14
No. per wheel 5 Nos.
Chassis
Table of Content
Description………………………………………………………….…………………………………………………….
Frame Inspection and measurement…………………………...……………………………………………
Torque Specification……………………………………….............…………………………………………….
General description
The chassis has C in C pressed and welded section. The cross members connect the side members to
each other.
Frame Alignment
Normally frame misalignment is happens only due to:
 Collision
 Excessive overloading.
An improper frame alignment will affect axles alignments thus influencing the tyre wear. It will also
affect the door closure & window operation. In severely misaligned frame it will affect the vehicle
handling.
Frame Inspection & Measurement

Inspection –
 Before proceeding with measurements, inspect all components for visible damage and other
damage.
 All damaged areas must be repaired or replaced.
Measurements –
 Measure the frame for misaligned with body attached to the frame. The inspection sketch
attached gives the alignment reference dimensions.
 However before proceeding with any measurements, the following precautions have to be
taken.
• Park the vehicle on level ground.

• The vehicle should be in unloaded condition with fuel tank full.
• If any extra fittings have been fitted; Please remove them. (E.g. winch etc.)
• Measure the tyre inflation pressure. Keep it as per recommendation
SUV:
86mm x 67.5mm x 2.8mm - minimum, 125mm x 73.5mm x 3.5 mm - maximum,
L=4120, W=780 Front; 1100 Rear
SC/ DC:
86mm x 67.5mm x 2.8mm - minimum, 125mm x 73.5mm x 3.5 mm - maximum,
L=5024, W=780 Front; 1100 Rear
Diagonal frame measurements

• Select reference points along one frame long member. It is suggested that the body mounting points
be used.
• Transfer these points to the surface floor with a plumb bob. (Attaching paper sheets below on the
ground will improve the measurements accuracy)
• Locate the reference point on the other long member.
• Measure the frame outer distance in front and the frame outer distance in rear.
• Move the vehicle away.
• Measure the distance between all the reference points diagonally. The measurement should not vary
more than 10 mm.
• Divide the distance between the front outer points and the rear frame outer points. This gives the
centre of the frame.
• Join the centre of the frame width at front and the centre of the frame width at rear. Place a chalk
line between these two points.
• This gives the centre line of the chassis.
• Determine how close to centre line is to diagonals intersection point.
• The reference mark on the floor will provide an illustrated indication of the degree of misalignment.
• A reference point transferred from one side’s long member may be 5 mm ahead or behind the
reference point from the opposite long member.
• Frame bow to the side should not exceed 5 mm per 2540 mm in length.
Inspection points –Measurement of Independent Front suspensions points –
 Take the measurement of the IFS points as shown in the sketch & using the same procedure of
marking.
 The dimension for the LCA bracket front & rear is the same.
Frame Repair
It is not recommended to repair the chassis frame. In case of any bend / twist due to accident collision: if
the bend is beyond the specified limits then it has to be replaced.
Bolt Location Torque Values
• Chassis outrigger to Body Mounting 60 ± 5 Nm
• Cargo Box mounts (DC) 60 ± 5 Nm
Refer below sketch for Chassis frame and body mounts locations (SUV & SC/DC) –
BODY MOUNTS SUV - LOCATIONS
BODY MOUNTS & CARGO BOX MOUNTS LOCATION – DC
FRONT BODY MOUNT
CARGO BOX MOUNT
 Body mounts/ triggers on front both are denominated as Mtg. No.1 to 5.

 There are 05 Nos. Body mounts on vehicle LH Side and 05 Nos. on vehicle RH side.
 Refer sketches for Body Mount and Cargo Box mount locations.
HVAC
Table of Content
Description……………………………………………………………………….…….……………..........
In Car Repair………..………………………………………………………………...........................
Lubricant Specification…………………….…………………………………………………………….
Technical Specification ………………….………………………………..…………………………….
Description
HVAC system provided in vehicle enable occupants to manually adjust air flow distribution, air flow
rate and air temperature inside passenger compartment. The air flow distribution mode, air flow
speed and air temperature can be adjusted by operating buttons/knobs provided HVAC control panel.
HVAC system also helps in defrosting and defogging the windshield. Fresh air and recirculation mode
can also be selected.
To achieve desired ventilation/cooling/heating/ defrosting/defogging effect, there are basically three

sub-systems which need to work in coherence. These are Air Circulation sub-system, Air Conditioning
sub-system and Heating sub-system. User interface to select the desired effect is the HVAC control
panel.
Air Circulation sub-system
Air Circulation sub-system mainly consist of -
• HVAC air filter

• Blower Motor Assembly
• Blower resistor
• Air distribution housings
• Flaps
• Air ducts and vents/louvers
Depending upon fresh or recirculation mode selected at HVAC control panel, a flap located on blower
housing gets operated and blower sucks air either from outside or from inside the cabin. At fresh air
inlet there is a wire mesh is provided. Before air gets sucked inside the system, it is filtered first by
HVAC filter located just above blower.
Filtered air is then forced circulated towards the main distribution hosing where multiple flaps are
provided. By selecting a particular distribution mode at HVAC control panel different flaps get
operated in pre-defined way thereby air flow is distributed among different vents present inside
passenger compartment.
Air flow volume or speed is controlled via a blower resistor and can be adjusted by adjusting blower
speed knob on HVAC control panel. Flow direction of air flow coming out of vents can be controlled by
manually adjusting the louvers.
Depending upon selected temperature knob position on HVAC control panel, amount of air passing
through evaporator and heater is controlled. Finally both cold and hot air streams are mixed together
and are distributed further.
Air Conditioning sub-system
The Air conditioning sub-system uses closed circuit configuration based on Vapor Compression
Refrigeration Cycle. The system uses R134a as refrigerant and suitable lubricating oil. Refrigerant gets
circulated through a closed loop as long as air conditioner is in operation.
The sub-system primarily consist of
• Suction hose
• A/C Compressor, electromagnetic compressor clutch
• Discharge hose
• Condenser, receiver/drier, condenser fan
• Liquid pipe
• Pressure switch
• Thermostatic expansion valve
• Evaporator
• Evaporator inlet and outlet pipes
• Thermo sensor
• Refrigerant and refrigerant oil
The A/C compressor used in system is of swash plate, fixed displacement Compressor. In this
compressor a fixed angle swash plate, attached to the drive shaft, rotates to reciprocate double acting
pistons. The axially reciprocating pistons suck refrigerant from suction side and deliver compressed
refrigerant to discharge side.
The compressor pulley is driven by the engine belt. If electromagnetic clutch is not engaged, drive
shaft does not rotate even as pulley keeps on rotating with engine through drive belt. Once electrically
energized, electromagnetic clutch engages and the rotary motion of the compressor pulley is
transferred to drive shaft which in turn starts reciprocating the pistons.
The A/C compressor is lubricated by refrigerant oil which circulates throughout the the system along
with the refrigerant.
When in operation, A/C compressor draws in low pressure and low-temperature refrigerant vapor
from the evaporator and compresses it to a high pressure and high-temperature refrigerant vapor,
which is then pumped to the condenser.
The condenser is basically a heat exchanger where atmospheric air flowing across its core is used to
cool the refrigerant flowing inside tubes. Electrical type condenser fan helps in ensuring sufficient air
flow through condenser core. Inside condenser, high-pressure and high-temperature refrigerant vapor
gets converted into high-pressure and moderate-temperature liquid in sub cooled state. Condenser
also has an integrated receiver/drier which removes impurities and moisture from circulating
refrigeration by using strainer and desiccant inside it.
The system uses block type of thermostatic expansion valve. While passing through metering orifice of
the thermostatic expansion valve, high pressure and moderate-temperature refrigerant liquid get
throttled to low-pressure and low temperature liquid. The refrigerant then flows to the evaporator.
Based upon pressure and temperature of refrigerant vapor coming out of evaporator, thermostatic
expansion valve regulates the amount of liquid refrigerant flowing towards evaporator.
Evaporator is also a heat exchanger where refrigerant flowing inside tubes is used to cool the cabin air
flowing across the evaporator core. While flowing through condenser low-pressure and low
temperature liquid refrigerant gets converted into low-pressure and low-temperature vapor in
superheated state. The cabin air while passing through the evaporator core gets cooler and gets
dehumidified. The condensate water gets drained off to atmosphere through drain hose, located
below the evaporator housing.
Finally this low-pressure and low-temperature refrigerant vapor gets sucked by A/C compressor and
the cycle repeats itself.
A trinary pressure switch is located on the liquid pipe connecting condenser to thermostatic expansion
valve. To prevent system failure, depending upon actual refrigerant pressure, the trinary pressure
switch makes compressor clutch get engaged or disengaged. Pressure switch shuts off compressor
when refrigerant pressure either exceeds a specified limit or if it falls below specified limit. It
allows/restarts the compressor if refrigerant pressure is within normal operating range. Additionally
the pressure switch starts condenser fan once refrigerant pressure exceed a specified limit and shuts it
off when refrigerant pressure falls below a specified limit.
A thermo sensor is provided, which depending upon the air temperature just besides the coolest
portion of evaporator core, makes compressor clutch get engaged or disengaged, in order to prevent
ice formation near evaporator. If cabin air temp just beside the evaporator falls below certain limit,
thermo sensor shuts the compressor off and restarts it again once air temperature rises back above
certain limit. These two specified temperature limits are lower in case AC High ('AC HI') switch is kept
on at HVAC control panel. Whereas, if at HVAC control panel, AC Low ('AC LO') is on, the above
specified limits are at little higher. Hence if 'AC HI' mode is selected, in comparison with 'AC LO' mode,
the cabin air temperature will be lower, compressor will remain engaged longer.
For recovering/recharging refrigerant and refrigerant oil, a high pressure side port located on liquid
pipe and a low pressure side charging port located on suction hose has been provided.
The evaporator cools the incoming air (re circulated or fresh) by fixed thermostat valve. The cooled air
later passes through the heater coil. The final air temperature is dependent on the amount of hot
water passing through the heater.
Heating sub-system
Heating sub-system primarily consist of
• Cabin Heater
• Heater inlet and outlet pipes
Cabin Heater is essentially a heat exchanger where hot engine coolant coming out of engine oil cooler
is passed through the heater tube which heats-up the cabin air flowing across the heater core. Engine
coolant keeps flowing through the heater as long as engine and hence water pump is in operation.
HVAC System Control
The desired ventilation/cooling/heating/defrosting/ defogging effect can be ensured by operating/

adjusting various knobs and switches on the HVAC control panel. By operating blower speed knob, air
flow speed can be adjusted.
By operating air distribution knob, air flow can be distributed among various vents. By adjusting knob
any one out of Face mode, Face-Foot/Floor mode, Foot/Floor mode, Foot/Floor-Defrost mode or
Defrost/Windshield mode can be selected.
By switching on/off the air recirculation switch, fresh air/recirculation mode can be obtained. For
comparatively lower/higher cabin temperatures, AC HI/ AC LO switch can be pressed on.
By adjusting the temperature knob, temperature of the air coming out of vents can be adjusted. For a
selected temperature knob position on HVAC control panel, amount of air passing through evaporator
and heater is controlled by operating various air mixing flaps. While passing through evaporator air
gets cooler whereas while passing through heater air gets warmer. Finally both cold and hot air
streams are mixed together and are distributed further. If temperature knob is adjusted to cooler side
(blue side), most of the air sucked by blower is forced to pass through evaporator. If temperature
knob is adjusted to warmer side (red side), most of the air sucked by blower is forced to pass through
heater.
Trouble Shooting
SYMPTOM CAUSES REMEDIAL ACTION
Low pressure side pressure Evaporator flooding due to  Remove refrigerant
high Ps>2.5to 2.9 And High Block valve stuck open. Dirt in
pressure side pressure gauge Block valve. Moisture in the  Evacuate/dehydrate
high. Pd>19.5 to 25 bar refrigerant circuit
Discharge air warm  Change expansion valve
 Change filter/drier.
 Charge correct amount of

oil & refrigerant.
 Check performance.
Low side –High High Side- High Non condensable ( excessive  Remove refrigerant
Ps>2.5-3.0 bar Pd> 19.5-25 bar air) Large amount of air caused
Suction side piping is hot to by insufficient evacuation after  Evacuate/dehydrate
touch. repair or servicing of system
Leak in system allowing air and  Change filter/drier.
moisture to enter.
oil & refrigerant.
 Check performance
Low side –High High Side- High 1. Expansion valve stuck open.  Change the expansion
Ps>2.5-3.0 bar Pd> 19.5-25 bar valve.
Frosting on suction side piping
Low side –High High Side- High Excessive refrigerant Poor  Check & repair condenser
Ps>2.5-3.0 bar Pd> 19.5-25 bar condenser cooling Engine or fan.
Discharge air- Warm High side condenser fan not working Fan
tubes-Very hot Compressor direction reverse. Condenser  Check condenser.
clutch- Could continuously fan clogged with debris/ sand.
cycle on the high pressure Radiator overheating.  Check pressure cap,
switch Pressure does not clearance between fan and
come to normal when radiator.
condenser cooled by water
 Check coolant and any
other radiator problem.
Expansion valve- Stuck closed  Remove refrigerant

and or insufficient refrigerant
flow to suction side of the  Evacuate/dehydrate
compressor. Foreign material
or moisture entry causing rust  Change filter/drier.
formation.
oil & refrigerant.
Low side _ low or vacuum Clogging on high side: Clogging  Remove refrigerant.
High side- High Ps> 1.5 bar to between compressor outlet and
vacuum Pd> 5 to 7 bar evaporator inlet (High side)  Clean & flush system.
Discharge air-slightly cool High Very little or no refrigerant flow
side tubes- Cool and showing to suction (low) side of the  Change filter drier.
signs of sweating or moisture compressor
build up at the position after  Charge correct amount of
the point of restriction. oil & refrigerant.
Temperature difference found
on both the sides of the  Check performance
clogged component.
Low side Gauge- Normal to Excessive moisture in system  Remove refrigerant
Vacuum ( Gradual reduction) Moisture can freeze within the
High side- Normal Ps> 1.5 to expansion valve and cause  Evacuate/dehydrate
vacuum Pd> 14 to 16 bar blockage through rust
Discharge air becomes formation.  Change expansion valve.
warmer as low side cycles to
vacuum.  Change filter/drier.

oil and refrigerant.
Low side- High High side- Low Compressor malfunction.  Replace compressor.
Ps> 4 to 6 bar Pd> 7 to 10 bar Compressor faulty, internal
Compressor –Noisy. Discharge blockage in suction Hose after  Remove refrigerant
air- Warm Discharge hose- low side filing port.
Cool.  Evacuate/Dehydrate.
 Change filter drier.

oil & refrigerant
Abnormal Noise Belt slippage/ damaged. Correct belt tension/

Compressor Clutch Pulley replace belt.
misaligned. Check the compressor
Compressor mounting bolt mounting.
loose. Check for loose parts and
Loose AC plumbing touching to correct.

fire wall/ front panel/ fender.
Compressor internal damage. Replace compressor.
High /Low pressure equalize Faulty compressor discharge or  Replace compressor.

soon after compressor stops. inlet valve. Faulty compressor
Compressor is not hot to seal.
touch.
Compressor pressure drops Non condensable in system  Recover refrigerant/ check
rapidly after switching off and for leaks and repair
does not stabilize to 
saturation pressure as per
ambient temperature.
Line to condenser is Restricted flow of refrigerant in  Remove restriction
excessively hot. system Evacuate
 Replace receiver drier.
 Charge through the

charging unit.
Insufficient/ no air flow Blower rotation direction  Correct the blower fitment.
wrong. Sealing disconnected.
Insulation piece blocking air  Renew sealing. Remove
passage. Mode cable not blockage.
adjusted properly. Voltage
insufficient < 12 Volts Improper  Adjust cable.
earthing. Open circuit, wiring
harness. Fuse blown Filter  Recharge battery. Check
clogged the charging system.
 Correct earthing.
 Correct wiring.
 Replace fuse.
 Clean filter element by

tapping.
 Replace filter element if

airflow is still insufficient after
cleaning.
 Replace filter element after

15,000 km OR one year.
Compressor clutch Open circuit/ fuse blown.  Replace fuse.

engagement not satisfactory Weak battery. Charge battery.
Faulty clutch relay. change relay.
No refrigerant. check for leaks, charge
Shorted clutch coil. refrigerant and oil check.
Oil/ dirt on clutch plate. Replace coil.
Change clutch plate
Check condenser/ radiator Fan Condenser fan pusher type. If fan not operating: loose
direction of rotation. Radiator fan puller. connection.
Loose wiring harness.
Motor burnout.
Care of the System

• The system should be flushed and charged every 50,000 or 1 year of operation. The quantity of
the gas which has to be filled is 830 ± 20 grams.
• The refrigerant used is R134A.
• Do not use / mix R12 & R134 A. the oils used for compressor is unique for R134. DO NOT MIX. IT
WILL CAUSE DAMAGE TO ‘O’ RINGS as well as the R/D.
• Though R134A is non-CFC, it is recommended that it should not be discharged to atmosphere.
• We recommend the use of ROBINAIR equipment for evacuation, charging of the system.
• The particle filter should be cleaned at every service interval. Also it is recommended that the
vehicle should not be driven with AC or Blower on without the particle filter as it will seriously
damage the AC system components.
• The procedure for cleaning the particle filter is as follows –
AC Pipe Joint – Tightening Process
1. Tightening Process – Refer illustrations.

• Tighten the parts to achieved perfect fit ‘O’ ring will pinch when not enough parts engage
condition.
• Block joint must be engaged and tightened at one (same) process. We recommend tightening
pushing the block joint by hand.
• Use double wrench when tighten the union type joints (fix union side).
2. Prevent ‘O’ ring damage – Refer illustrations.

• Prevent the seal surface damage.
• It is recommend adding compressor oil on the o-ring just before engagement operation.
• Ensure that no foreign materials in parts stock area are available.
• Don’t touch the ‘O’ ring portion by glove. Use non woven fabric glove with resin coating on finger
area.
Refer below illustration to avoid seal failure –
Example of Tube & Hose Assembly Failure

O - ring Damage (Pinch)
Example of Tube & Hose Assembly Failure

Foreign Material on the O - ring
Yarn of Glove Metal chip
Ex Scrath on Joint Seal Surface
Union Joint Type Block Joint Type
3. Prevent the damage of Hoses inner resin coating.

 Don’t fold the hose; it will damage the inner resin coating.
 Refrigerant permeation amount increase inner resin coating peeling.
4. Refrigerant (R134a) Leakage –
• Refer below chart to know more on Refrigerant leakage –
AC System Overview and Function

AC SYSTEM COMPONENTS - OVERVIEW
A/C Compressor
A/C Compressor is mounted on left-front side of the engine using four bolts. Rear port is suction port
on which suction hose is fitted, other end of which is connected to thermostatic expansion valve.
Front port is discharge port on which discharge hose is fitted, other end of which is connected to
condenser.
The compressor pulley is driven by the engine belt. If electromagnetic clutch is not engaged, drive
shaft does not rotate even as pulley keeps on rotating with engine through drive belt. Once electrically
energized, electromagnetic clutch engages and the rotary motion of the compressor pulley is
transferred to drive shaft which in turn starts reciprocating the pistons.
The compressor is lubricated by refrigerant oil which circulates throughout the refrigerant system
along with the refrigerant. When in operation, compressor draws in low pressure and low-
temperature refrigerant vapor from the evaporator and compresses it to a high pressure and high-
temperature refrigerant vapor, which is then pumped to the condenser.
Condenser
The condenser is basically a heat exchanger where atmospheric air flowing across its core is used to
cool the refrigerant flowing inside tubes. Between two tubes fins are provided which help in heat
transfer. Both radiator fan and condenser fan assist each other in ensuring sufficient air flow through
condenser core.
Condenser is located just in front of radiator and is mounted on radiator using four bolts. Rubber
isolator is used at all four joints to dampen the vibration. Condenser fan is mounted on condenser
itself.
Inside condenser, high-pressure and high temperature refrigerant vapor gets converted into high-
pressure and moderate-temperature liquid in sub cooled state. Condenser also has an integrated
receiver/drier which removes impurities and moisture from circulating refrigeration by using strainer
and desiccant inside it. Then the refrigerant flow is toward thermostatic expansion valve through
liquid pipe.
Condenser Cooling Fan
The electric cooling fan mounted on the A/C condenser increases airflow and assists in cooling the hot
refrigerant passing through the evaporator.
Receiver/Drier
Desiccant helps in removing moisture and other non condensable gases from circulating refrigerant.
Filter or strainer helps in removing impurities/debris from system.
Pressure Switch
Pressure switch is located on the liquid pipe connecting condenser to thermostatic expansion valve.
To prevent system failure, depending upon actual refrigerant pressure, the pressure switch makes
compressor clutch get engaged or disengaged.
High/Low Pressure Operation: Pressure switch shuts-off compressor when refrigerant pressure either
exceed a specified limit or if it falls below specified limit. It allows/restarts the compressor if
refrigerant pressure is within normal operating range. Medium Pressure Operation: The pressure
switch starts condenser fan once refrigerant pressure exceed a specified limit and shuts it off when
refrigerant pressure falls below a specified limit.
Thermostatic Expansion Valve (TXV)
a. Low Pressure Port

b. High Pressure Port
Thermostatic expansion valve is located near left side of dash panel. On cabin side evaporator inlet
and outlet pipes are connected to TXV housing and on engine compartment side, liquid pipe and
suction hose are connected.
TXV used is a box or block type of thermostatic expansion valve. While passing through metering
orifice of the thermostatic expansion valve, high pressure and moderate-temperature refrigerant
liquid coming from condenser get throttled to low pressure and low-temperature liquid. The
refrigerant then flows to the evaporator. Based upon pressure and temperature of refrigerant vapor
coming out of evaporator, thermostatic expansion valve regulates the amount of liquid refrigerant
flowing towards evaporator.
Evaporator
a. Evaporator Unit
b. Housing
Evaporator is located inside the climate box housing. Evaporator is basically a heat exchanger where
refrigerant flowing inside tubes is used to cool the cabin air flowing across the evaporator core. While
flowing through condenser low-pressure and low-temperature liquid refrigerant gets converted into
low-pressure and low-temperature vapor in superheated state. The cabin air while passing through
the evaporator core gets cooler and gets dehumidified. The condensate water gets drained off to
atmosphere through drain hose, located below the evaporator housing.
Thermo sensor
Thermo sensor, commonly known as 'antifreeze switch' or de-icing switch' is located on the climate
box housing and protrude inside such that sensor element is very near to evaporator core The thermo
sensor is provided, which depending upon the air temperature just besides the coolest portion of
evaporator core, makes compressor clutch get engaged or disengaged, in order to prevent ice
formation near evaporator. If cabin air temp just beside the evaporator falls below certain limit,
thermo sensor shuts the compressor off and restarts it again once air temperature rises back above
certain limit.
These two specified temperature limits are lower in case AC High ('AC HI') switch is kept on at HVAC
control panel. Whereas if at HVAC control panel, AC Low ('AC LO') is ON, the above specified limits are
little at higher. Hence if 'AC HI' mode is selected, in comparison with 'AC LO' mode, the cabin air
temperature will be lower, compressor will remain engaged longer.
Blower Motor
Blower motor is located inside the cabin just behind the glove box. Blower motor is electrically
operated and used to force circulate air throughout the air circulation sub-system. Higher the blower
speed, higher will be the air flow. Air flow volume or speed is controlled via a blower resistor and can
be adjusted by adjusting blower speed knob on HVAC control panel.
Heater
Heater is located inside the climate box housing. Cabin heater is essentially a heat exchanger where
hot engine coolant coming out of engine oil cooler is passed through the heater tube which heats-up
the cabin air flowing across the heater core. Engine coolant keeps flowing through the heater as long
as engine and hence water pump is in operation.
HVAC Filter
HVAC filter is Nylon mesh filter; it is located just above blower motor, which is behind the glove box.
Filter material used is made of Polyester and is electrostatic charged. Particulate matter present in the
fresh/cabin air is removed by filter before air gets sucked inside the system. Clean HVAC air filter
element every service interval under normal operating conditions. Under highly dusty or polluting
conditions, early cleaning will be required.
AC SYSTEM COMPONENTS - SCHEMATIC
A/C Control Panel – Overview

The HVAC Control Panel located inside cabin, on central console of IP; three knobs which control air
distribution, blower speed and air temperature respectively. It also houses three active switches which
select fresh/recirculation mode, AC LO mode and AC HI mode respectively.
The desired ventilation/cooling/heating/defrosting/ defogging effect can be ensured by operating/
adjusting various knobs and switches on the HVAC control panel.
Temperature Control Knob

By adjusting the temperature knob, temperature of the air coming out of vents can be adjusted. If
knob is adjusted in blue segment, air coming out of vents will be cooler and if knob is adjusted in red
segment air coming out of vents will be warmer. Rotating the knob anti clock wise in blue segment
makes air temperature reduce progressively. Rotating the knob clockwise in red segment makes air
temperature increase progressively.
For a selected temperature knob position on HVAC control panel, amount of air passing through
evaporator and heater is controlled by operating various air mixing flaps. While passing through
evaporator air gets cooler whereas while passing through heater air gets warmer. Finally both cold
and hot air streams are mixed together and are distributed further. If temperature knob is adjusted to
cooler side (blue side), most of the air sucked by blower is forced to pass through evaporator. If
temperature knob is adjusted to warmer side (red side), most of the air sucked by blower is forced to
pass through heater.
Air Distribution Control Knob

By operating air distribution knob, air flow can be distributed among various vents. This is done by
operating various air flaps inside the climate box assembly. By adjusting knob any one of the following
modes can be selected.
• Face mode • Foot-Defrost or Floor-Defrost Mode

• Face-Foot or Face-Floor mode • Defrost or Windshield Mode
• Foot or Floor mode
Blower Speed Control Knob

By operating blower speed knob, air flow speed can be adjusted. This is done by making blower to
rotate at pre-defined speeds. Rotating the knob clockwise increases the blower speed. Any one out of
four speeds, 1 to 4 can be selected. When knob is adjusted at zero/off setting, both blower motor and
air conditioning system remains switched off.
Air Recirculation Switch

The air recirculation switch on the control panel toggles the air circulation mode between the fresh air
and re-circulated air. When the air recirculation switch is in fresh air mode, the indicator lamp on the
air recirculation switch will be OFF. The HVAC system takes in air from outside the vehicle and allows
to flow into the vehicle cabin as fresh air.
When the switch is in recirculation mode, the indicator lamp on the air recirculation will glow. The
HVAC system circulates the air available inside the vehicle cabin.
Air Conditioning High-Low Switches

Once 'AC LOW' switch is selected, indicator lamp of this switch glows and AC Low mode gets activated.
Whereas if 'AC HI' switch is selected, indicator lamp of this switch glows and AC High mode gets
activated If cabin air temp just beside the evaporator falls below certain limit, thermo sensor shuts the
compressor off and restarts it again once air temperature rises back above certain limit. These two
specified temperature limits are lower in case AC High ('AC HI') switch is kept on. Whereas if AC Low
('AC LO') is ON, the above specified limits are little at higher. Hence if 'AC HI' mode is selected, in
comparison with 'AC LO' mode, the cabin air temperature will be lower, compressor will remain
engaged longer.
In Car Repairs
• Discharging the A/C System
Air Conditioning System of this vehicle uses R134a (HFC-134a) as refrigerant and PAG (Polyalkylene
Glycol) Oil’ as refrigerant oil. The System is not compatible with any other refrigerant or oil. R134a is a
greenhouse gas hence once it is allowed to escape in atmosphere, it adversely affect environment by
contributing to global warming/ climate change. Hence utmost precautions should be taken during
service in order to prevent release of refrigerant into the atmosphere during maintenance, service,
repair and disposal of air-conditioning and refrigeration system /equipment.
Only trained technicians can service air conditioning system which requires refrigerant handling. They
should ensure that the required service practice is followed.
Only approved refrigerant handling equipments can be used for recovering, recycling, recharging or
reclaiming R134a.
Recovering refrigerant means removing refrigerant in any condition from system and storing it in an
external container without necessarily testing or processing it in any way. Recycling refrigerant means
extracting refrigerant from system and cleaning refrigerant for reuse without meeting all of the
requirements for reclamation.
The Refrigerant Recovery Unit (RRU) is utilized to discharge the vehicle refrigerant system. The RRU is
a wheeled cart that includes a pump, a special refrigerant recovery cylinder.
The following procedure is to be followed while recovering refrigerant and oil from the A/C system:
1. Park the vehicle near R134a Refrigerant Recovery/Recycling/Recharging machine. Switch the
engine off.
2. Empty the oil drain bottle of the machine; else make a note of the initial level of oil present in
the drain bottle.
3. Connect high pressure side hose of machine to high-side/discharge side charging port of the
vehicle. Connect low pressure side hose of machine to low-side/suction side charging port of
the vehicle.
4. Open the quick coupler valves on the hoses after they are connected to the system.
5. Check the manifold gauges readings on the machine. They should register pressure reading
above zero. If they are reading zero and/or machine is displaying message indication low
system pressure, then either the hose is not connected properly or quick coupler valves are
not opened or the air conditioning system of vehicle itself is empty.
6. Choose and press the appropriate button on the machine to recover refrigerant and oil from
A/C system of vehicle.
7. When the system has recovered to zero bars, the vacuum pump of the machine will start and
run until recovery is complete. The machine will continue the recovery till near vacuum is
created inside the A/C system. If pressure read by manifold gauges does not increase and does
not go above zero bars for minimum 5 minutes, it indicates successful recovery. After recovery
completion, the machine will go for oil drain. If recovery process is unsuccessful, it will have to
be repeated or the A/C system will have to be repaired for leak.
8. The machine will display amount of refrigerant and oil drained from the A/C system.
9. Check the oil drain bottle, and note the amount of oil that was removed from the A/C system.
This is the amount of new oil that must be charged into the A/C system after evacuation is
complete. Use only new/fresh oil to replace the oil removed during the recycling process.
Dispose of used oil according to local, state, and federal regulations.
10. Once refrigerant and oil recovery is complete, system is ready for evacuation.
• Evacuation of the A/C System
• Do not start or crank the engine as the system is being evacuated.
• Evacuation and leak test ensure that the system does not leak under low pressure
conditions.
• Ensure that the hoses are connected to the charging ports and valves on the A/C lines. Tank
and manifold are open.
The following procedure should be followed while evacuating the A/C system:
1. Engine should be in “OFF” condition.
2. Ensure that both low and high side service hoses are connected with vehicle, and coupler
valves are open.
3. Choose and press the appropriate button on the R134a Refrigerant Recovery/Recycling/
Recharging machine to evacuate the A/C system of vehicle. The machine pulls a vacuum on
the vehicle A/C system to remove air, non condensable gases, moisture and contaminants that
may be present in the system.
4. To ensure adequate moisture and contaminant removal, adjust the evacuation time to
approximately 30 minutes. If moisture was able to enter an open system over an extended
period (several hours), increase the evacuation time to 2-3 hours after installing a new
receiver/drier cartridge.
5. Choose and select the appropriate button to either repeat/extend evacuation or to leak test
the system.
6. If pressure read by manifold gauges does not increase and does not go above -1.0 bars for
minimum 15 minutes, it indicates successful evacuation and that there is no system leak under
vacuum.
7. If evacuation process is unsuccessful, it will have to be repeated or the A/C system will have to
be repaired for leak. After leak repair system will again have to be evacuated and leak tested.
8. Once evacuation is complete, system is ready for oil/refrigerant charging; else system can be
repaired as required.
• Purging of A/C System
In case the system has got ruptured, compressor has to be replaced or refrigerant/oil is suspected of
being contaminated, the system should be checked for contamination. If found contaminated, after
the refrigerant reclamation, the entire system must be flushed with Nitrogen. After Nitrogen purging
the A/C system needs to be evacuated again before proceeding further. Compressed air must never
be used for this purpose, which may produce flammable mixture.
• Recharging the System with Refrigerant Oil
Oil may be refilled through the high side after system evacuation or with an oil injection tool after
charging refrigerant inside the vehicle. 'Daphne Hermetic FD46XG PAG Oil’ should only be used to
charge the system.
Only new/fresh oil used to replace the oil which was removed from A/C system during the recycling
process. Note that PAG oil is highly hygroscopic in nature. Hence open the PAG oil containers only
when they are ready to use and cover the containers with the cap immediately after usage. Avoid PAG
oil contacting the bare skin or vehicle body. It is toxic and corrosive in nature. If no system
components are to be repaired/ replaced charge only the amount of oil that was removed from the
system during the recovery process. If no oil was removed from the system during recovery, do not
charge any oil into the A/C system.
However if system components have to be replaced, following additional amounts have to be
replenished in the system in order to compensate the oil which might have remained inside the
replaced component:-
 Condenser: additional 20 cc
 Receiver/Drier: additional 20 cc
 Evaporator: additional 20 cc
 For each pipe: additional 10cc
In case compress or needs to be replaced follow the below mentioned procedure:-

• Remove the suction and discharge pipes from the compressor. Cover/close the pipe ends
immediately to prevent from moisture/ contamination from getting entrapped. Also masks both the
ports of compressor.
• Loosen the auto-tensioner pulley and remove the drive belt from clutch pulley. Unplug the clutch
wiring.
• Loosen the compressor mounting bolts and remove the compressor.
• Remove the drain plug and let the oil get drained from compressor and measure the quantity of
drained oil. For effective oil draining, rotate the shaft multiple times.
• Note that compressor at the time of factory fitment and any new compressor contain 150 cc of
refrigerant oil which is equal to oil capacity of complete A/C system.
• To maintain total oil quantity in complete system, some of the refrigerant oil will have to be drained
off from new compressor before installing it on vehicle. The quantity of oil which needs to be drained
off from new compressor can be found out as below:
Oil to be drained from new compressor=Total oil capacity of compressor- Drained oil from old
compressor;
-Or-
Oil to be drained from new compressor =150cc- Drained oil from old compressor;
• The installation procedure would be in reverse of removal procedure.

Refer the machine’s manufacturer instructions before using the machine to fill the oil. Following
procedure can be followed while charging refrigerant oil inside the A/C system:-
1. Fill fresh refrigerant oil into the injector bottle of the machine.
2. Adjust the o-ring around the oil injector bottle to the required oil charge level and fix it with
machine.
3. Engine should stay shut-off.
valves are open.
5. Select appropriate option to inject oil into the system. The machine checks pressure inside the
hoses, and equalize them.
6. When prompted, press and hold the inject oil button until the oil level in the oil injector bottle
reaches the o-ring. At this point oil injection is complete and further oil injection needs to be
stopped immediately.
7. Now system is ready for refrigerant recharge.
Note that after injecting oil, machine will allow only a high-side refrigerant charging. Also note that
while recharging the A/C system with refrigerant at this point of time ensures all of the intended oil
quantity, some of which was left over in hoses, is delivered to the vehicle.
• Recharging System with Refrigerant

After successful system evaluation and leak test and oil filling, system can be charged with R134a
refrigerant. In case system has been repaired, repair has to be followed by evaluation and leak test.
Following procedure should be followed for recharging refrigerant into the system:-
1. Engine to be kept in ‘OFF’ condition.

valves are open.
3. Select high side refrigerant charge option from machine. Note that machine may offer low
side charging too but after injection refrigerant oil high side charge should only be selected.
4. Select from or feed required refrigerant fill volume (830 +/- 20 gm) into the machine. After
this, machine will start charging refrigerant into the system.
5. When the charge is complete, machine might offer an option to start pressure equalization in
the service hoses or skip the pressure equalization.
Selecting the option of pressure equalization in service hoses will ensure that the entire liquid
refrigerant trapped in the hoses is transferred to the vehicle A/C system for accurate charging.
Once this option is selected, follow the instructions given in the next step (step-6). Skipping
the option of pressure equalization in service hoses, or equivalently selecting an option of
compensating the service hoses, will make machine to charge a small amount of refrigerant
into the vehicle A/C system in order to offset the refrigerant that may be left in the hoses. If
this option is selected, wait till hoses are compensated and afterward follow machine’s
instructions and close both coupler valves. Now go directly to step 10, skipping steps 6 to 9.
6. Close the high side coupler valve. After closing the high side valve, the high side hose may be
removed from the vehicle. However the high side hose must stay connected to machine, to
enable pressure equalization.
Also low side hose must stay connected both with machine and with the vehicle with the low
side coupler valve kept open.
7. Check the vehicle that transmission lever is in neutral and parking brake is engaged.
8. Start the engine. Switch on the blower to maximum speed, set temperature knob at extreme
cool position, set air mode at fresh, keep air distribution in face mode, keep all cabin air vents
kept open and switch on the air conditioner at high mode (AC HI mode).
9. Now machine starts pressure equalization of service hoses, by internally connecting the low
and high side hoses and thus allowing the vehicle’s compressor to pull refrigerant into the A/C
system. Machine will confirm when this process is complete.
10. Close the low-side coupler valve. Remove the service hoses from the vehicle’s A/C system. In
case hose compensation option was selected in step-6, close both the coupler valves and
disconnects both the hoses from vehicle.
Please note that if the low side or high side coupler valves are left open, the system will pull
the refrigerant back out of the vehicle and may damage the system components.
11. Shut the engine off. Also switch off the blower.
12. Select appropriate option to begin clearing the service hoses. Once the hoses are cleared,
refrigerant charging process is considered complete and will be indicated by the machine.
Now the vehicle’s air conditioning system is ready for final leakage test. If no refrigerant
leakages are found system’s cabin cooling performance can be evaluated.
• Refrigerant Leak Test
After refrigerant recharge, to detect any system leaks, Electronic Leak Detectors can be used. These
detectors have got sensitivity levels of 4 g/year (0.15 oz/year). Manufacturer's instructions should be
followed while using these detectors.
Good ventilation before leak detection is necessary in the area where it is to be performed. If the
surrounding air is contaminated with refrigerant gas, the leak detector will indicate this gas all the
time. Vapors of other chemicals such as engine coolant/antifreeze, diesel fuel, brake cleaner, or other
cleaning solvents can also cause the similar problems. Also while detecting leak, any air flow around
vehicle must be prevented.
Leak detecting probe should be slowly run through full refrigerant circuit to detect any leakage. More
focus should be given to all the fastened joints near compressor, thermostatic expansion valve,
condenser and evaporator. Region near both filling/ charging ports should also be checked. As the
R134a is heavier than air, any leakage might be more apparent at the bottom of a leakage point.
If receiver drier has been replaced, condenser including the region around integrated receiver drier
bottle plug should be checked for leakage. To detect possible leakage from evaporator assembly, bring
the detector’s probe near to evaporator. Also blower resistor and thermo sensor can be removed and
probe can be brought near this to detect refrigerant leaking through evaporator. Leak from
evaporator may also get detected by bringing probe near outlet of drain hose located underbody, just
below climate box assembly.
In case leakage is detected from HVAC system, repair should be done only after recovering the entire
refrigerant from system.
If no refrigerant leakages are found system’s cabin cooling performance can be evaluated.
Inspect for leaks by slowly moving the probe of the detector around all the hose connections and
points of possible leakages. The R134a is heavier than air. Hence any leakage will be more apparent at
the bottom of the fitting.
• HVAC System Performance Test
The tests described in this section can be carried out in order to check performance of the HVAC
system. The tests include an open door test and a closed door test. The performance tests involve
measurement of ambient air temperature, discharge air temperatures inside passenger cabin,
suction/low-side system pressure and discharge/high-side system pressure. Following test procedure
should be followed:--
Open Door Test:

1. Park the vehicle in shade, with bonnet/windows closed. All doors should be kept fully open.
Transmission lever should be in neutral-mode and parking brake should be fully engaged.
2. Ambient temperature should be within 30 to 40 deg C range. No obstructions should be there
in front/around the vehicle within 2 m range.
3. Keep all air vents/grills fully open and keep louvers directed toward chest level.
4. Select recirculation mode
5. Adjust air distribution knob to face mode
6. Set temperature control knob to extreme/ maximum cool
7. Install probes at all the air vents/grills (Side LH/ RH, Center LH/RH and Rear LH/RH) to measure
discharge air temperature and on vehicle’s roof top to measure temperature of ambient air.
Also install/connect pressure gauges on the suction and discharge sides of the A/C system.
8. Switch on engine and keep it running at 1500 rpm
9. Adjust blower speed to third/3rd speed
10. Switch on the air conditioner in AC High (AC HI) mode. Set the clock to zero.
11. Record the ambient-air, discharge-air temperatures and suction/discharge side pressure
readings immediately after completion of 10 minutes.
12. HVAC system performance will be considered as satisfactory if at the end of 10 minutes
following conditions are met:--
• (Average Ambient Temperature – Average Grill Temperature) > 15 Deg C
• Suction and Discharge Pressure at given ambient temperature should fall within shaded region
on the graphs given at the end of this section.
Close Door Test:

1. Park the vehicle in shade, with bonnet/windows closed. All doors should be kept fully closed.
Transmission lever should be in neutral-mode and parking brake should be fully engaged.
2. Ambient temperature should be within 30 to 40 deg C range. No obstructions should be there
in front/around the vehicle within 2 m range.
3. Keep all air vents/grills fully open and keep louvers directed toward chest level.
4. Select recirculation mode
5. Adjust air distribution knob to face mode
6. Set temperature control knob to extreme/maximum cool
7. Install probes at all the air vents/grills (Side LH/ RH, Center LH/RH and Rear LH/RH) to measure
discharge air temperature and on vehicle’s roof top to measure temperature of ambient air.
Also install/connect pressure gauges on the suction and discharge sides of the A/C system.
8. Switch on engine and keep it running at 1500 rpm.
9. Adjust blower speed to third/3rd speed
10. Switch on the air conditioner in AC High (AC HI) mode. Set the clock to zero.
11. Record the ambient-air, discharge-air temperatures and suction/discharge side pressure
readings immediately after completion of 10 minutes.
12. HVAC system performance will be considered as satisfactory if at the ends of 10 minutes,
following conditions are met:--
• Average Grill Temperature < 12 Deg C
• Suction and Discharge Pressure at given ambient temperature should fall within shaded region
on the graphs given at the end of this section.
Open all the vehicle doors to perform open door test and close all the doors and windows of the
vehicle to perform the closed door test.
• Replacing Anti-freeze switch -
The function of the anti freeze switch is to protect the refrigerant system from damage. It switches off
the compressor when the condenser water dries ices up on the evaporator fins. Otherwise, the
evaporator becomes extra cool, resulting in the air passage between the fins getting blocked. Suction
pipe becomes extra cool and sometimes iced up, the refrigerant remains liquid even after the
expansion valve due to insufficient heat transfer across the evaporator surface and eventually the
compressor will get damaged due to liquid refrigerant inflow.
Replacement procedure:
1. Remove the wiring harness from the connector.

2. Pull out the probe carefully.
3. While fitting back, ensure that the washer & the O ring is present.
• Replacing A/C Compressor –
1. Discharge the refrigerant

2. Remove the suction and discharge pipes from the compressor, ensuring no foreign items get
clogged to the ports. (In order to have better accessibility it is suggested that the following
parts be removed first- right wheel, right aprons; oil cooler)
3. Loosen and remove the alternator drive belt.
4. Loosen the compressor brace locking nuts and remove the drive belt.
5. Loosen the compressor mounting bolts.
6. Remove the compressor.
7. Drain and measure the refrigerant oil from the original compressor by removing the drain
plug.
8. For example, the oil quantity drained from the original compressor is 80 cc.
9. The replacement compressor comes with 150 cc of compressor oil.
10. The implication is that out of the total 150 cc of the original compressor. 70 cc of oil is in the
system. Hence if the replacement compressor is fitted as it is, it will cause this 70 cc extra to
get into the whole system and affect the performance.
11. Hence it should always be –
12. Oil to be drained from new compressor =Total oil capacity of compressor- Drained oil
13. The refitting procedure is the reverse of assembly procedure.
14. Follow the steps of charging procedure.
View of the Base plate assembly with actuators

(Electrical Operation of Flaps & circulation modes) –
• View of the electrical actuator base plate Assembly –
• Setting of the Control Panel Cable -
The procedure, which is, outlined below are the setting procedure for assembly. However, please note
that the removal of the cables should also be done in the same positions.
Failure to follow the procedure may cause breakages.
The procedure for setting of the links with Electric actuation is given after the manual control panels.
Recommended Lubricants
Refrigerant: R134A
Compressor oil: FD46XG. PAG stands for (Poly Alkaline Glycol oil)
Oil quantity to be filled while replacing components –
• Condenser/evaporator: In addition to the drained quantity- 20 cc

• Receiver Drier: Add 20 cc of new oil
• If any one pipe is replaced then 10cc. (If 2 pipes replaced then it should be 20 cc.)
• Blower Motor: 3700±300; 12 V; 300 W

• Condenser Motor: 2500± 200; 12V; 200 W
• Expansion Valve- 2T
Passive Safety
(SRS Airbag and Seat Belt Pre-Tensioner)
Table of Content
Description……………………………………………………………………….…….……….……..........
In Car Repair………..………………………………………………….……………...........................
Dismantling ..........................……………………………………………….…………………..……
Torque Specification.………....………….………………………………..…………………………….
Description
The SUV SC/DC vehicle is equipped with a driver and front passenger airbag. Vehicles fitted with this
equipment can be identified by the "SRS - AIRBAG" logo in the center of the steering wheel and on the
instrument panel above the glove box. Vehicles with the airbag system can also be identified by the
airbag indicator, which will illuminate in the instrument cluster for about two seconds as a self test
each time the ignition switch is turned ON.
The airbag is an active safety device, which consists of a flexible envelope that is designed to inflate
rapidly in case of a collision, thus preventing the occupants from colliding with interior objects or parts
such as the steering wheel or window. The SUV SC/DC is equipped with dual stage airbags for both
driver and passenger sides.
Seat Belt is basically a harness that when worn will prevent the wearer from being throw from the
seat in the event of a collision or sudden movement. The SUV/SC/DC uses a 3 point seat belt for both
the front and rear seats. The seat belts when worn will prevent the occupant from injury and make the
airbag effective. They are termed as passive safety system.
Buckle is a quick release connector which fastens occupants when the seat belt is used. The seat belt
assembly includes buckles, fasteners and a hardware designed for installing the seat belt assembly in
the vehicle. The buckle is a quick release connector which fastens the occupant with the seat belt. The
seat belt system can with stand high loads during a crash.
The over view of Supplement Restraint System Components –
A. Driver airbag (DAB) B. Passenger airbag (PAB)

C. Clock spring D. Airbag ECU
Front Seat Belt

Both front seats are equipped with three-point
seat belts. It consists of a fixed lower B-pillar
mounted emergency locking type retractor and a
height adjustable upper B-pillar mounted D Ring or
Pillar loop. The fixed lower seat belt anchor is
secured to the B-pillar side of the seat frame. The
traveling end-release seat belt buckle is secured to
the inboard side of the seat frame. The front seat
belt buckle is incorporated with an integral Hall-
effect type switch that detects whether the seat
belt has been fastened or not.
Rear Seat Belt (for SUV/ DC vehicles)

A-Seat Belt B-Seat Belt mounting bolt cover
All three rear seating positions are equipped with
three-point seat belt systems. The outboard seat
belts employ a lower C-pillar mounted emergency
locking-type retractor, a fixed upper C-pillar
mounted turning loop and a fixed lower seat belt
anchor secured to the C pillar. The rear seat center
seating position belt has retractor that is integral
to the rear seat. The rear seat center seating
position belt lower anchor is secured to the seat
frame panel. All three rear seat belts have fixed
end release seat belt buckles secured to the floor
panel.
Front Seat Belt Pre-tensioner with Load Limiter

A- Seat belt Retractor B-Seat Belt Pre-tensioner
Electric Connector
The seat belt pre-tensioner system with the
digressive load limiter is installed for both the
driver’s seat and the front passenger’s seat. It
operates simultaneously with the SRS airbag
system during frontal collision with an impact
exceeding a specified level. When the frontal
collision with an impact exceeds the specified
level, the seat belt slack is taken care by the pre-
tensioner.
Emergency-locking retractor is a retractor
incorporating adjustment hardware by means of a
locking mechanism that is activated during an
emergency and is capable of withstanding restraint forces during its operation. Load-limiter is a seat
belt assembly component or feature that controls tension on the seat belt to modulate the forces that
are imparted to occupants restrained by the belt assembly during a crash.
Airbag ECU
The Airbag ECU is secured with mounting bolts
located under the center console assembly near
the hand brake lever. The electronic circuitry is
located in the hollow center of the die-cast
aluminum Airbag ECU housing. The electronic
circuitry includes a microprocessor, an electronic
impact sensor, electromechanical inertia sensor,
and an energy storage capacitor. The stamped
metal cover plate is secured to bottom of the
Airbag ECU with mounting bolts to enclose and
protect the internal electronic circuitry and the
components.
Airbag
The airbag provides supplemental restraint to the occupants during a collision. This is done by the
rapid inflation of a cushion by non-toxic gas that is generated and/or released by an inflator in
response to an electrical signal from the collision detecting sensor. The inflated cushion absorbs
energy of the driver or passenger and prevents the body from hard point contact in the vehicle.
Driver Airbag (DAB)
The driver airbag is located at the center of the

steering wheel, and is secured with lock pins. The
horn switch is located beneath the driver airbag. The
airbag inflators secure the airbag housing within an
integrated mold fitted at the back of the trim cover.
Passenger Airbag (PAB)

The passenger airbag is located above the glove box
on the instrument panel in front of the front
passenger seat. An integral stamped metal bracket
reinforces the upper airbag door unit. The upper
airbag cover fasteners and mounting flange are
concealed beneath a bezel on the instrument panel
above the glove box opening. The airbag housing
contains the airbag inflator and the cushion. The
airbag cushion is made of a coated nylon fabric. The
passenger airbag cannot be repaired, it must be
replaced if found faulty or deployed.
Clock Spring
The clock spring is designed to wind and unwind

when the steering wheel is rotated. The clock spring
is only designed to rotate the same number of turns
as the steering wheel from lock to lock.
Centering the clock spring indexes the clock spring

tape to other steering components can operate
within their designed travel limits without any
damage.
If the clock spring is removed for removing the

steering column, the clock spring gets disconnected
from the steering gear and the clock spring tape can change position relative to other steering
components. So the clock spring must then be re centered following completion of such service or the
clock spring tape may be damaged.
• The airbags in the vehicle are designed to be a SUPPLEMENT and not a replacement for the
seat belts. For maximum protection, wear seat belts at all times.
• The front airbags are designed to prevent serious injury. Deployment occurs very quickly and
with considerable force. During normal deployment and depending on variables such as
seating position, one may experience abrasions, bruises, swellings, or other injuries as a result
from deployment of one or both of the airbags.
• When installing any accessory equipment, make sure that the front airbag system and wiring
is not damaged. Any interference in the system could cause malfunction. It is recommended
that to use only Mahindra approved accessories and get them installed by Mahindra
Authorized Dealer only.
• The occupant's back must be as upright as comfort allows and be against the seat back with
the seat belt properly fastened.
Trouble Shooting
Refer below trouble shooting chart-
Care of the System
SPECIAL ATTENTION SHOULD BE GIVEN TO THE FOLLOWING EXPLANATIONS OF WARNING

MEASURES.
NOTE: Repair or replacement activities must only be performed by trained personnel.
The inflators are intended not to fire below the threshold current. To avoid inadvertent triggering of
the airbag, NEVER apply a current through the squib; NEVER check any component through multi-
meter.
The system has back-up power for about 30 seconds after the battery is disconnected. Wait for at
least ONE minute after disconnecting the battery and before attempting servicing of the Airbag and or
its component to prevent accidental deployment and personal injury.
Never dispose the airbag module un-deployed without proper instructions as this may result in
possible injury. All deployments must follow special instructions to be safe. All units shall be deployed
prior to disposal. The airbag and/ or its components must not be adapted or installed in any other
vehicle other than the specific vehicle for which they are designed and manufactured. Any attempt to
adapt or install airbag modules or their components in any other vehicle can result in personal injury
to the occupants in the event of accidents.
A B
Driver Airbag Module – Hold Seat Belt Retractor–hold

driver module in a vertical seat belt retractor by
position with right hand on gripping the end caps or
cover. sides of the retractor
NOTE: Above [A] & [B] are the examples of the safest methods of holding
Airbag modules & seat belt pre-tensioner.
The Airbag components do not require any regular maintenance. However special procedure is to be
followed to service / repair airbag and airbag related components.
The airbag and seat belt pre-tensioner are designed to inflate only once. If the airbags deploy, do the
airbags or related components replacement through an authorized Mahindra Dealer only.
Whether you're working on airbag systems or just around them, following a few general rules goes a
long way toward preventing injuries and incurring unnecessary costs. You don't have to be riding in a
vehicle to be smacked in the face with an exploding airbag. A bag can deploy in your service bay as you
work on or near it, which is why it is extremely important to take the proper precautions. If you do,
you'll be taking a big step toward avoiding being injured by a device designed to prevent serious
injury.
Disconnecting the negative battery cable is the first essential step toward preventing accidental
deployment when working on or near airbag systems. In fact, it's the primary precaution
recommended to emergency service personnel attempting to remove injured people from crashed
cars with un-deployed airbags.
All you need to know about preventing injury while working on or around airbag systems. In SUV,
removing the battery negative cable is not recommended as it is linked to Audio preset, DDAS preset
and Anti pinch window settings. Hence in a non-emergency situation, as in a service bay, the airbags
should deactivated by the manufacturers recommended procedures using the diagnostic tool.
To prevent any accidental triggering whilst working on or near airbags, airbag components or pre-
tensioner, lock the airbag computer using the diagnostic tool. When this function is activated, all the
trigger lines are inhibited and the airbag warning light on the instrument cluster lights up continuously
(when ignition on).
When working underneath the vehicle (on the bodywork, sill panel, etc.) or for certain operations
involving removal or refitting of seat trims, it is essential to lock the airbag computer using the
diagnostic tool and to disconnect the battery.
Some airbags can deploy even if the battery is disconnected. This reserve electrical energy is built into
some systems to enable the airbags to deploy in the event the battery is destroyed in a front-end
collision. Generally, the reserve energy lasts for about two minutes. It is advised to wait 10 minutes or
more before assuming an airbag system has been deactivated.
SRS Components (Supplementary Restraint System)

Working effectively and safely on airbag systems requires a good knowledge of the various parts of
such systems, and how they work together.
Seat Belt Pre-tensioner –
Essentially, a pre-tensioner uses a gas generator to propel a piston attached to the seat belt buckle
with a cable. When the airbag is deployed, the same circuitry fires this gas generator, which causes the
piston to pull on a cable, which back-winds, or tightens the seat belt.
In addition to being aware of the dangers of airbag deployment, you also need to be aware of
accidentally deploying the seat belt pre-tensioner on cars so equipped. Seat belt pre-tensioner should
be stored in their original containers on a secured flat surface. Keep them away from sparks, a heat
source or high electrical energy. Never attempt to disassemble a pre-tensioner, and never reuse a
deployed one.
An Airbag that has been removed from a vehicle should never be installed in any other vehicle. We do
not recommend reuse of airbag/ pre-tensioner or any of its components. It must be noted that;
 An airbag may not work effectively even when it is taken from a vehicle of same make, model and
year of manufacturing.
 The difference between airbag systems are much more than just the trim covers enclosing them.
 Installation of wrong airbag module or improper installation could increase the risk of serious
injury or death during collision.
 Any modification of airbag module, like; incorrect mounting, airbag size, inflator module output,
airbag vent size, airbag folding method or painting the cover surface could have adverse effect on
protection offered by airbag.
 The removal, handling, storage and deployment of airbags require special care. Only trained
professionals should perform this work. Personnel performing these operations should wear
appropriate protection.
 Only trained technicians should perform this work. Personnel performing these operations should
wear appropriate protection, including eye and ear protection, during airbag deployment.
 Do not dispose of a live (un-deployed or partially deployed) airbag through normal disposal
channels until after it has been fully deployed.
 The airbags and pre-tensioner must be checked using the diagnostic tool :
- after an accident,
- after theft or attempted theft of the vehicle,
- Before selling a used vehicle.
Transportation, Handling, Storage and Disposal of the -

Airbag and front Seat Belt Pre-tensioner.
1. Transportation of the Airbag & Pre-tensioner assemblies.
• Airbag & Pre-tensioner assemblies are considered Hazardous Materials. Persons transporting/
shipping Hazardous Materials must be properly trained and must consult current published
regulations to ensure conformance to all applicable regulations.
2. Storage of the Airbag & Pre-tensioner assemblies.
• Airbag & Pre-tensioner assemblies should be stored in a clean and dry area, Pallets with
assemblies can be stacked on top of another, but only if the individual packages do not deflect
under load.
3. Handling of the Airbag & Pre-tensioner assemblies.
• Un-deployed Airbag & Pre-tensioner assemblies.

- Do not place any objects on top of Airbag Covers. These objects may become projectiles in
case of inadvertent Airbag deployment.
- Do not attempt to dismantle Airbag or their components.
- Do not apply electrical voltage to the DAB/PAB and pre-tensioner terminals, especially if
external loom is connected to the connector.
• Deployed Airbag & Pre-tensioner assemblies.

- Wash hands after handling the deployed Airbag and/ or Pre-tensioner assemblies.
4. Disposal of the Airbag & Pre-tensioner assemblies.
• Airbag & Pre-tensioner assemblies have been manufactured in accordance with applicable
international laws. They may only be disassembled and disposed of by suitably qualified
personnel who must follow appropriate procedures defined by the manufacturer.
• Where Airbag & Pre-tensioner assemblies are due for recycling and disposal, care must be
taken to ensure that the airbag modules, seat belt pre-tensioner are neutralized, e.g.
Deployed before recycling.
• Deploying the Airbag & Pre-tensioner assemblies should preferably be conducted in the
vehicle, by connecting the electric current to the device igniter. Safe distance of minimum 10
meters from the vehicle must be observed by the person conducting deployment and all other
persons near.
• Un-deployed Airbag/ Pre-tensioner assemblies/ components must never be removed from

vehicles for reuse as spare parts, nor must they ever be modified or repaired.
5. Removal of active / un-deployed Airbag & Pre-tensioner assemblies:
• If the local conditions specifically disallow in vehicle deployment, removal is the alternative
method. However, in case of removal of Airbag & Pre-tensioner assemblies it is necessary use
utmost care and to comply with the important safety warnings listed below.
• Removal should only be done by trained personnel in accordance with the manufacturer's
instructions and forwarded to specially approved disposal operators.
• Storing and shipping of un-deployed Airbag & Pre-tensioner assemblies must be done in
accordance with local and national regulations.
• Only those employees that are in possession of the necessary expertise are permitted to
remove un-deployed Airbag & Pre-tensioner assemblies. On removal from the vehicle Airbag
& Pre-tensioner assemblies must be stored in accordance with applicable local regulations /
laws.
In Car Repairs
FRONT SEAT BELT (SUV, SC/ DC vehicles) - RHS / LHS
Removal
Park the vehicle in a horizontal/ground position for removal and assembly of seat belt.
Replace the seat belt/seat belt buckle /retractor if damaged.
1. Disconnect and isolate the negative

terminal of the battery.
2. Remove the upper anchor bolt cover of
the seat belt.
3. Using a suitable ring spanner, remove

the upper anchor bolt (B) of the seat belt
(A).
4. Remove the bolt (B) of the seat belt

lower anchor (A).
5. Remove the B pillar upper and lower

trims.
6. Using a suitable screwdriver, remove the
seat belt holding bracket clips (A) and
remove the seat belt assembly (B).
7. Remove the seat belt frame mounting

bolt (A) and the electrical connector (B)
of the seat belt pre tensioner.
8. Remove the seat belt pre tensioner unit.
Installation
2. Check the operation of the seat belt after installation.
Mahindra & Mahindra will not take responsibility for any potential injury or loss related
to the Airbag replacement if the tasks are not performed as per above instruction.
REAR MIDDLE SEAT BELT (SUV vehicles)

Removal
1. Remove the rear seat assembly.
2. Remove the seat belt upper holding cover bolt

cap.

upper holding cover bolt (B) of the seat belt (A).
4. Remove the back rest cover (B) of the rear

seat (A).
5. Using a suitable ring spanner, remove the seat

belt assembly mounting bolt and the seat belt
assembly.
Installation
REAR SEAT BELT (DC vehicles) –RHS / LHS

Removal
1. Remove the rear seat assembly.

2. Open an upper anchor bolt cover (B) of the
rear seat belt (A).
3.Remove the upper anchor bolt (A) of the seat

belt.
4. Using a suitable ring spanner, remove the

lower anchor bolt (B) of the seat belt (A).
5. Remove the inner, upper and lower trims of

the C pillar.
6. Using a suitable ring spanner, remove the

mounting bolt (B) of the seat belt assembly (A).
7.Using a suitable screwdriver, remove the seat

belt holding bracket clips (A) and remove the
seat belt assembly (B).
Installation

DRIVER AIRBAG (DAB)

Removal
Wait for two minutes before you work on the airbag system.

2. Using a special tool, press the driver
airbag mounting lock lever on both
sides.
3. Remove the driver airbag assembly

from the steering wheel.
4. Disconnect the horn switch electrical

connections (A) from the driver airbag
assembly (B).
5. Disconnect the airbag electrical connections

(A) From the driver airbag assembly (B).
Care should be taken while disconnecting the airbag terminals from the airbag.
Place the airbag with the electrical connections facing downwards or top of the airbag pointing
upwards.
Never touch the terminals with bare hands; it could trigger the airbag unit.
Installation

2. Check for proper installation of the airbag.
PASSENGER AIRBAG (PAB)

Removal
The airbag inflator is explosive. Accidentally deployment will lead to serious personal injury.
Wait for a minute before you disconnect the connector of the airbag unit.

2. Detach the glove box upper trim (A) from

the instrumental panel (B).

mounting bolts (B) from the passenger
airbag assembly (A).
4. Disconnect the passenger airbag electrical

connections (A) from the passenger
airbag assembly (B).
Store/place the airbag with the electrical connections facing downwards, to prevent the
accidental trigger.
Installation
Install the Airbag connectors, Horn connector to the airbag. Place the airbag over the steering wheel
and press down the airbag into the steering wheel, till it properly seats. The airbag if properly installed
will get locked in its position.
CLOCK SPRING
Removal
Before removing the clock spring, turn the steering and position the front wheels to a straight
ahead direction.
1.Disconnect and isolate the negative terminal

of the battery.
2. Remove the steering wheel.
3. Remove the mounting bolts (A) of the
steering column upper shroud (B) and remove
the shroud assembly.
4. Remove the LH instrument lower panel

mounting screws (A) and remove the lower
panel (B).
5.Using a screwdriver, remove the steering

column lower shroud mounting screws (A) and
remove the shroud assembly (B).
6.Disconnect the electrical connections of the

clock spring (A) and the multi switch (B).
7.Detach the clock spring assembly from the

combination switch.
Installation
To install, reverse the removal procedure.
The clock spring can rotate from its centre position after installation. To locate the clock spring at
the central position, rotate the clock spring from end to end and note the number of turns. Now
divide the number of turns by Rotate the clock spring from its current position by exactly the same
amount of turns as calculated above. This will bring the clock spring to its central position. Any
deviation in this procedure may lead to errors in the ESC system.
AIRBAG ECU
Removal
The airbag control module comprises of the impact sensor, which enables the system to deploy the
front supplemental restraints. Never strike or drop the airbag control module, as it can damage the
impact sensor or affect its calibration. If an airbag control module is accidentally dropped during
service, the module must be scrapped and replaced with a new unit. Always store the airbag facing
up.
Wait for a minute after disconnecting the battery terminal, before you proceed to remove the
Airbag ECU.
1.Disconnect and isolate the negative terminal

of the battery.
2.Remove the floor console assembly.
3. Disconnect the electrical connection (B) of
the Airbag ECU (A).
4.Using a socket and wrench set, remove the

mounting bolts (B) of the airbag ECU (A) and
remove the assembly.
Never touch the terminals of the ECU; it could corrupt the internal electronics.
Installation
To install, reverse the removal procedure.
AIRBAG & ECU WIRING HARNESS

Removal
Refer illustration shown below for Airbag Wiring Harness layout in SUV -
Removal Steps –
1. Lock the Airbag ECU through diagnostic tool and remove the negative terminal from battery.
2. Remove floor Console.
3. Remove DAB and PAB modules (refer Live airbag R&R process prescribed in this Manual
separately)
4. Remove Center console and IP assembly along with Steering wheel, clock spring and AC vents.
5. Remove floor carpet and driver & co-driver seats for more accessibility.
6. Remove Airbag wiring harness socket connected to the floor wiring harness.
7. Remove grounded clip near Airbag ECU and connector on ECU.
8. Remove the CCB wiring harness which includes of DAB/ PAB wiring harness.
Refitting of Airbag wiring harness is opposite to the removal procedure. For refitting of Airbag
modules, other Airbag components and clock spring refer the respective component R&R procedure
separately prescribed in this manual.
Working principle of various sub systems

• Driver Airbag (DAB) & Passenger Airbag (PAB) –
Location of DAB & PAB in SUV/ SC/ DC – Refer illustration shown.
A driver Airbag / inflator is a sealed canister containing gas generant, ignition material, and filtering
and sealing components that filter combustion byproducts and insure proper gas flow. When
activated, the ignition material burns very rapidly to produce large quantities of non-toxic gas at high
pressure and temperature. The generated gas is released through small portholes in the inflator wall/
balloon/ bag. An exposure to high concentrations of gas generant may cause headache, nausea,
blurred vision, faintness.
Force distributed over Airbag – Schematic

The crash sensors in the airbag ECU continuously monitor to determine if the frontal impact is severe
enough to deploy the airbags. When an impact of sufficient force occurs, the airbag ECU sends an
electrical signal to the airbag module which in turn rapidly ignites the energetic material and inflates
the airbag. The inflated airbag deploys out of steering wheel and glove box cover. As the entire
deployment of airbag happens in less than a second, in combination with seat belts, it slows down the
driver’s or passengers forward motion, thus reducing the risk of head or chest injury. The airbags
deflate quickly through the ports in the airbag cushion. Therefore airbag is not a substitute of seat
belts. To maximize your protection always wear seat belts. The Airbag can function only when the
ignition key is ‘ON’.
The airbags are not designed to inflate for side or rear collisions, roll over or if it is involved in low
speed frontal collision.
Following are the Schematic on working of Airbag – (Refer illustrations)
Illustration 1
Inflator receives an electrical signal to fire.

Time sequence: 0-1 milliseconds.
Illustration 2
Initiator fires; pyrotechnics ignited.

Illustration 3
Gas generant burns producing inflation gases.

Illustration 4
Gases begin to inflate the cushion and break

open the cover.
Illustration 5
Cushion deployed and begins to fill.

Illustration 5
Cushion inflated provide occupant restraint.
Roto Pre-tensioner and Load Limiter (RPLL)
SUV is equipped with a seat belt pre-tensioner and load limiter for driver and co-driver seats which
works along with SRS and is also controlled by airbag ECU. The pre-tensioner and load limiter is
located in each front seat belt retractor. Pre-tensioner are triggered / ignited only when there is
frontal crash severe enough to deploy the front airbags. The pre-tensioner tighten the front seat belts
on the occupant’s body and reduce the seat belt slack and thus helps to reduce the injury on the
occupant in case of a frontal accident. After the pre-tensioner of the seat belts are activated the load
limiters allows the seat belt to release webbing (if necessary) to reduce the forces against the chest, so
that the occupant is cushioned by a fully inflated airbag.
The pyrotechnic seat belt retractor contains a micro gas generator, initiator unit (squib) and other
components of the seat belt system. The micro gas generating device is a pyrotechnic material sealed
within a small metal capsule housed in the retractor unit.
The ignition unit initiates a chemical reaction, which creates gases that drive a series of ball bearings in
the retractor assembly forward, applying tension to the buckle and reducing seat belt slack. The
reduced seat belt slack protects the occupant in a frontal accident, which reduces the risk of injuries.
 RPLL type Seat belts should be used only with Airbags. These belts basically comprise 2 elements.
Roto Pre-tensioner –
The main function of a Pre-tensioner is to remove slack from the belt in the event of an accident to
reduce forward movement of the occupant. The Pre-tensioner is incorporated in the seat belt inertia
reels, also known as "pyrotechnic inertia reels". The Pre-tensioner assembly consists of a ball cage
comprising of a tube of steel balls surrounding a toothed wheel.
Load Limiters –
The load limiters are provided to limit the seat belt loads to a pre-defined value. The load limiter fitted
inside the retractor unit is basically a torsion bar. Whenever the belt load increases beyond the pre-
defined limit, some length of the belt is released due to twisting of the torsion bar.
Refer below Schematic on working of Pre-tensioner –
A B C
[A] Pre-tensionernot activated. [B] & [C] Gas Generator powder ignites, Pressure builds up within
tube assembly. Balls are guided through tube around the pinion; Pinion subsequently drives the
spindle. Webbing is retracted Balls are collected in ball trap.
Refer below illustrations on working of Load Limiter –

In below illustration [A] while there is major impact the Pre-tensioner tightens the seat belts by that
time the Airbag will be fully deployed. Same time Load Limiter releases belt tension [B] in case it is
severe force which allows occupant cushioning on fully deployed Airbag in turn it limits occupant
injury.
Children and Airbags: Children must always be properly restrained. Children are safer when
properly restrained in rear seating positions than in front seating positions.
NOTE: PLEASE FOLLOW THE SPECIAL INSTRUCTIONS GIVEN BY MAHINDRA ON

CHILD SEATING WHICH IS ALSO LABLED BACK ON THE CO-DRIVER SUNVISOR.
Co-driver Sun visor - Schematic
• Children must never be allowed in the front passenger's seat. Mahindra recommends children
should be seated in the rear seats with proper child restraint seat belts.
• Holding a child in your arms while sitting in a front seat is NOT a suitable substitute for a child
restraint system. In an accident, a child held in a person's arms can be crushed between the
deploying airbag and the person holding the child.
• Never keep your child in front seats with Child restraint systems facing rear deploying Airbag may
cause severe injury to the child.
• Airbag Warning Light:
The airbag ECU continuously monitors the readiness of the airbag and any malfunction
in the SRS system is indicated by the airbag warning lamp on the instrument cluster.
The warning lamp will illuminate for 06 seconds and go OFF when the ignition is
switched ON and this is normal as the system is performing a self check.
The Warning light system monitors the following components -

• Airbag ECU • Seat Belt Pre-tensioner and Load
• Driver Airbag (DAB) Limiters
• Passenger Airbag (PAB) • Airbag related wiring Harness.
If any of the following conditions occurs, it indicates malfunction of airbags or seat belt retractor pre-
tensioner. Customer should contact Mahindra dealer/ service personal immediately for assistance.
1. The warning light does not come ON when the ignition key is switched ON or warning
light remains ON for more than 06 seconds
2. The warning light comes ON while driving.
Airbag / Pre-tensioner Component Care:

The Airbag components do not require any regular maintenance. However special procedure is to be
followed to service / repair airbag and airbag related components.
The airbag and seat belt retractor pre-tensioner are designed to inflate only once. If the airbags blow
up, do the airbag and related components replaced by an authorized Mahindra Dealer only.
• Never attempt to modify Airbag components or wiring or steering wheel or the body structure.
Modification can adversely affect the Airbag function and lead to personal injury.
• Only Mahindra authorized dealer person can repair your Airbag system. Any unauthorized repair
or modification on electrical systems of the vehicle may result in unwanted deployment of
airbags and render your vehicle unsafe. Any rework / fitment of accessories must be carried by
Mahindra trained person only. Mahindra shall not be responsible for any injury / loss or Death
resulting due to tampering of the system by unauthorized person.
• For cleaning the airbag pad covers, use only soft, dry cloth or the one which has been
moisturized with plain water. Solvents and cleaners would adversely affect the airbag covers
and may cause malfunctioning of the system.
• Always approach authorized Mahindra dealer if the Airbag components must be discarded or
the vehicle is to be scrapped. Failure to do so may lead to personal injury.
If the vehicle has met with an accident, even though the airbags are not deployed, get your Airbag
system checked by an authorized Mahindra dealer to ensure airbags are functioning normally.
Disposals of Airbags, Seat Belt Pre-tensioner –

Introduction -
Removing or deploying airbags before scrapping a vehicle eliminates the potential for hazardous
exposures or reactions during processing. A live airbag initiator can potentially discharge even after it
is separated from the airbag assembly during processing. Airbags that have not been fully deployed
can cause human injury, damage to equipment, and contamination of air and water systems. If special
handling procedures are followed, airbags can be safely deployed and then recycled with the rest of
the vehicle or shipped separately to a recycling facility.
Vehicle manufacturers recommend in vehicle deployment as the safest and most time efficient
method for neutralization of Airbag devices. If the local conditions specifically disallow in vehicle
deployment, dismantling is the alternative method. However, in case of dismantling of airbag devices
it is absolutely essential to use utmost care and to comply with the important safety warnings listed in
this document.
Situations may arise that require the disposal of a live (un-deployed or partially deployed) airbag. If
the entire vehicle is to be scrapped, the airbag should be deployed within the vehicle. If the vehicle is
to be used again, the airbag may be removed from the vehicle and then fully deployed outside of the
vehicle.
General safety instructions for disposal of Airbag devices
All airbag devices have been manufactured in accordance with applicable international laws. They may
only be disassembled by suitably qualified personnel who must follow appropriate procedures defined
by the manufacturer.
Where End-of-Life Vehicles with airbag devices are due for recycling and disposal, care must be taken
to ensure that the airbag modules, seat belt pre-tensioner are neutralized.
Un-deployed airbag components must never be removed from vehicles for reuse as spare parts, nor
must they ever be modified or repaired.
It is essential that all relevant health and safety regulations together with the vehicle manufacturers'
instructions for the deployment and safe disposal of airbag components be observed.
Information, safety and instruction materials, provided by the vehicle and airbag manufacturers, as
well as the attendance of training courses can be a suitable means of acquiring the necessary
expertise.
Vehicle dismantlers must ensure that all employees handling airbag components, and their
supervisors, familiarize themselves with the information and instruction material. It is strongly
recommended to let employees confirm in writing the receipt of and familiarity with the relevant
documentation and safety/handling instructions.
When the airbag is deployed, there may be a loud noise and fine dust will be released through
the instruments. These conditions are normal and not hazardous. However fine dust generated
during airbag deployment may cause skin irritation. Be sure to wash off any residue with a
lukewarm water and soap after airbag is deployed due to an accident.
No objects (like mobile charger, mobile phones etc.) should be placed over or near the airbag
modules. Placing objects over or near the airbag may cause the objects to be propelled by the
airbag onto your face or chest, causing serious injury.
Airbag components may be hot for several minutes after deployment. Do not touch the airbag
components immediately after deployed.
Mahindra & Mahindra will not take responsibility for any potential injury or loss related to the
Airbag replacement if the tasks are not performed as per given instructions.
Deployment of Airbag devices inside of the vehicle:
 As the solid propellant burns, the airbag module may heat up and vent
hot gas.
 Always wear gloves and safety glasses during handling of airbag
devices.
 Because of peak noise levels during deployment there is a potential risk
to hearing. Always wear ear protection during deployment.
 Any persons who may be affected by the resulting noise shall be
warned in advance.
 Always wash hands after handling deployed airbag devices.
 Deployment and associated activities shall only be performed by
trained personnel.
 A safe distance of at least six meters from the vehicle has to be
maintained during the deployment of airbag devices.
 Electrostatic discharge could cause an inadvertent deployment and
personal injury. Prevent static build up and control static discharge.
Proper personal, facility and equipment grounding can help to prevent
any potential build-up of electrostatic energy. The use of wrist straps is
recommended.
 Be sure not to leave anything on the instrument panel near the
passenger’s seat.
 Gases and particulates are generated during the deployment of
pyrotechnic devices. After deployment and before any other removal
operations are carried out inside the vehicle – the doors should be
opened to thoroughly ventilate the vehicle.
 Individuals with respiratory conditions, such as asthma, may be
affected by the gasses and particulates resulting from a deployment of
pyrotechnic devices. Individuals with such conditions should not
conduct such operations.
Removal of active / un-deployed Airbag devices:
If the local conditions specifically disallow in vehicle deployment, removal is the alternative method.
However, in case of removal of airbag devices it is indispensable to use utmost care and to comply
with the important safety warnings listed below.
Removal should only be done by trained personnel in accordance with the manufacturer's instructions
and forwarded to specially approved disposal operators. Storing and shipping of un-deployed airbag
devices must be done in accordance with local and national regulations.
Only those employees that are in possession of the necessary expertise are permitted to remove un-
deployed airbag components. On removal from the vehicle airbag components must be stored in
accordance with applicable local regulations / laws.
Manipulations of airbag modules or improper handling can result in personal injury.
Electrostatic discharge could cause an inadvertent deployment and personal injury. Prevent static
build up and control static discharge. Proper personal, facility and equipment grounding can help to
prevent any potential build-up of electrostatic energy. The use of wrist straps is recommended.
The removed airbag module can become a dangerous projectile when deployed. That is the reason
why airbag modules must always be positioned with the surface from which the bag emerges
orientated uppermost or turned away from the body. Always hold side impact modules in vertical
position with cover facing away from you and wires in hand. Be sure not to put any item on the
removed airbag device.
Airbags and seat-belt pre-tensioner must never be exposed to temperatures in excess of 80°C, even
for short periods of time. All airbag components must be kept away from ignition sources, including
flames; other high temperature sources; and electrical discharges.
Never cover or block exhausts ports. Never set inflators down so that the exhaust ports are covered or
blocked.
Avoid excessive mechanical load (e.g. by compressing) and do not drop airbag components.
Never tamper with the connectors. The connector contains an electrical shunt that reduces the chance
of deployment due to electrostatic energy. Cutting or removing the connector could cause an
inadvertent deployment resulting in personal injury.
Onboard Deployment
1. Method of Onboard Activation
The onboard activation of electrically ignited airbag devices: the airbag devices should be ignited one
by one in an automatic sequence. This allows acoustic and visual confirmation of successful activation
during all stages of deployment.
2. Pre-deployment Procedures
Before performing onboard deployment, be sure to carry out the following preparation.
 Turn the ignition switch to OFF (Lock) and disconnect the battery cable terminal from the
battery.
 After the terminals are disconnected, wait for a certain time (longer than five minutes) before
going on to the next work.
 Consider appropriate measures for the prevention of glass scattering and, if necessary, to
reduce deployment noise and emission.
 Example of Noise Reduction Measure: Cover up the vehicle.
3. Post deployment accomplishment

After onboard deployment, be sure to complete the following steps.
 Ventilate the vehicle passenger air inside the compartment, confirm that all airbags have been
activated and disconnect the deployment harness.
 Since the airbags are heated after deployment, do not touch them immediately after
activation.
4. Airbag Deployment Tool/ Special Tool (MST)
4.1 Tool Type -
Mahindra & Mahindra has developed the Special tool for

onboard deployment of Airbags and pre-tensioner.
Following are the details on the tool and its safety
features. Refer illustrations.
The Airbag, pre- tensioner Deployment tool –

Part No. 0000AAG0001ST, which consists of –
DEPLOYMENT TOOL • Four individual clips with approx. 10 meters of

wiring harness to be connected to deployment
CONTROL BOX devices connected from control box.
• 02 nos. separate alligator clips connected with
approximately 2 meters wires for connecting the
battery terminals.
• One Control box with trigger switch & indicator
lamps. The kit Part no. is embossed on it. Refer
illustration.
4.2 Connection Method
The following steps are general procedures for deploying airbags/ pre-tensioner inside the vehicle.
Caution – Before beginning either of the deployment procedures outlined below, disconnect and
isolate the cables from the vehicle’s battery. Failure to perform this important preliminary step could
result in unintentional deployment and possible personal injury.
 Refer bellow schematic diagram for use of special tool made for SUV Airbag, pre-tensioner
module deployment and disposal.
SCHEMATIC OF AIRBAG DEPLOYMENT TOOL

4.3
Mahindra & Mahindra recommends that the deployment of the Airbag & Pre-tensioner all to be
ignited at a time; it can also be deployed one by one which allows acoustic and visual confirmation
of successful activation during all stages of deployment.
Deployment Procedure for Airbags and Pre-tensioner –
Illustration/ Photos Airbag/ Pre-tensioner Deployment Steps
Disconnect the cables from the vehicle’s battery.
Wait at least 20 minutes for the energy-reserve capacitor to discharge.
Make a Deployment tool and accessory ready to

connect to the vehicle Airbag’s and pre-tensioner.
Locate and disconnect the wires leading to all airbags/ pre-tensioner. Static electricity can deploy
airbags; always disconnect wires before cutting.
1. Locate and disconnect the wires leading to DAB
First locate the DAB module to connect the

deployment tool.
Using the appropriate Allen key tool, unscrew and

remove the M6 socket head bolt from the
Steering Wheel
• Turn the SW by 180 degrees to access the second bolt fixing DAB to the Steering Wheel.
• Undo the second bolt, using the Allen key tool.
Remove the DAB from Steering Wheel by pulling

it in direction parallel to the steering shaft.
Lift up the black tab in DAB connector with a screwdriver. Pull off the DAB connector and remove it
from DAB. Refer illustrations.
Cut the wires leading to the driver airbag, leaving

at least 4 inches to splice into the jumper.
Reconnect the DAB connector to the Airbag.
Place the DAB into the SW cavity, and align the 3

rectangular housings in DAB with horn switches in
the SW.
Refit the M6 socket head screws to fix the DAB in

steering wheel. Torque the screw 4 +/- 1.0 Nm.
Connect the ends of the jumper-wiring harness/

deployment tool alligator clips to the ends of the
wires leading to the Driver airbag module.
Use tape or other insulating material to make sure that the two leads do not make contact with each
other. Both stages of a two-stage airbag may be deployed at the same time by twisting together the
corresponding wires from each stage, or the two stages may be wired and deployed separately.
2. Locate and disconnect the wires leading to PAB
Then locate the PAB module to connect the

deployment tool.
Lift the corners of Lower Cover PAB to undo the

attaching clips. Use plastic or wooden tool for this
task to avoid part damage. Remove the Lower
Cover PAB from the Instrument Panel.
Using the appropriate spanner, undo and remove

the 2 hexagonal bolts fixing the PAB bracket to
the vehicle Cross Car Beam.
Lift the PAB Cover from the Instrument Panel and

pull the PAB upwards to remove it from the
Instrument Panel.
Lift the tab from airbag connector and putt

connector up to disconnect airbag loom.
Cut the wires leading to the Passenger airbags,

leaving at least 4 inches to splice into the jumper.
Locate and fix the PAB module into the IP. Ensure
that the cut wire loom kept outside connecting
alligator clips wires from the Control box.
Locate and insert two M8 socket head screw into

the holes in PAB bracket.
Torque to 18 +/- 2.0 Nm.
Align and press to assemble the Lower Cover PAB

to the Instrument Panel.
Make sure that the cut wire loom is kept outside

to connect to the deployment tool alligator clips.

wires leading to the Driver airbag module.
Use tape or other insulating material to make sure that the two leads do not make contact with each
other. Both stages of a two-stage airbag may be deployed at the same time by twisting together the
corresponding wires from each stage, or the two stages may be wired and deployed separately.
• Locate and disconnect the wires leading to Driver seat belt pre-tensioner
• Locate and disconnect the wires leading to co-driver seat belt pre-tensioner
Then locate the driver & co-driver side pre-

tensioner modules to connect the deployment
tool.
Take the driver & co-driver side pre-tensioner

module out from the body panel to connect the
deployment tool.
Cut the wires leading to the pre-tensioner module

on LH & RH side, leaving at least 4 inches to splice
into the jumper.

wires leading to the pre-tensioner wires on driver
& co-driver seat belt.
Use tape or other insulating material to make

sure that the two leads do not make contact with
each other.
Make sure that the both pre-tensioner wires are

connected properly to the deployment tool.
Refer illustration.
Align the both side seat belts to the ‘B’ pillar trim
properly and mark or stick the Yellow or any
disable color strips on one location on the trim as
well as in line to the seat belt.
(the mark on seat belt will dislocate since the seat

belt will be tightened after the deployment of the
pre-tensioner module which in turns indicates for
proper deployment of pre-tensioner module)
Make sure that all the Airbags/ pre-tensioner modules are connected to the deployment tool.
Make sure that all airbag modules/ pre-tensioner are properly mounted and secure in place.
Clear all loose items from the path of the airbags/ pre-tensioner deployment (for example, clear the
front seats, Instrument panel for driver and co-driver airbag deployment).
Alert all the people in the area that airbag/ pre-tensioner deployment is about to occur, and move
everyone at least 30 feet from the vehicle.
Separate the leads on the wiring harness and
connect the Control box leads to the terminals
of a 12-volt automotive battery.
Once the contact is made, the Green lamp will
glow, indicating the availability of power supply
in the control box; the Black switch is trigger
which will allow power output to through the
control box; the Red lamp will glow as soon as
the trigger will operated, it’s just indication for
power supplied and airbag component
deployment.
Ensure proper alignment of process once again,

and press the trigger (Black) switch on Control
box the airbags and pre-tensioner deployment
will occur.
The output (Red) lamp will simultaneously glow

as soon as the trigger (black) switch is pressed; it
is indication of power supplied through the
switch and deployment should happen at the
same time.
PAB – deployment complete.
DAB – deployment complete.
Refer illustration for pre-tensioner deployment –
The yellow mark on ‘B’ pillar trim as well as on

seat belt aligned before deployment, has
disturbed since the belt has tightened after
deployment of pre-tensioner has took place.
Yellow arrows marked on B-pillar upper trim with

seat belt shows total shift of approximately 4 to 6
inches. It is indication that the particular pre-
tensioner deployment has happened successfully.
Leave the fully deployed airbag’s/ pre-tensioner in the vehicle, or remove for separate recycling.
Some airbag/ pre-tensioner modules may be hot. Allow them to cool and the dust to settle before
approaching the vehicle. Keep water and other liquids away from the airbags/ pre-tensioner. If
powder from the airbag contacts the skin, wash with water.
‘OUT –OF-VEHICLE’ DEPLOYMENT
The following steps are general procedures for deploying airbag outside of a vehicle.
Caution – Before beginning the deployment procedure outlined below, disconnect and isolate the
cables from the vehicle’s battery. Failure to perform this important preliminary step could result in
unintended deployment and possible personal injury.
"Out-of-Vehicle" Deployment (to be used only when in-vehicle deployment is not possible)
Caution – Never attempt "out of vehicle" deployment inside a building or with the airbags trim cover
facing down. Clear the area of all people within 30 feet of the airbag module before it is deployed. See
"Removing Live Airbags" and "Safe Handling of Airbags," opposite.
1. Disconnect the cables from the vehicle’s battery.

2. Wait at least 20 minutes for the energy-reserve capacitor to discharge.
3. Arrange the deployment tool properly for airbag module deployment.
Control Box
4. Disconnect and remove the airbag module from the vehicle. Static electricity can deploy airbags;
always disconnect wires before cutting. Cut the wire between the airbag and the vehicle, leaving
at least 4 inches of wire for splicing; Refer live airbag removal procedure.
5. Position the DRIVER AIRBAG on the ground in a clear, well ventilated area with the trim cover
facing straight up, and the "Closed Container Method Using Tyres”. CO-DRIVER AIRBAGS should
be securely mounted: use the "Closed Container Method Using Tyres" to secure the airbags.
Refer below mentioned procedure for airbag Out-of-Vehicle deployment with Close Container Method
Using Tyres -
Requirements (all tyres must be the same size; SUV vehicles used tyres can be used):
• 2 tyres with wheel.
• 4 or more tires without wheels.
• Rope or cable to securely tie the stacked tyres together.
Arrange the tyres as directed:

• Place the one tyre with wheel on the bottom.
• Stack four or more tires without wheels on top of first tire.
• Place Airbag module above the first tyre, facing trim straight upward direction.
• Stack the one tyre with wheel on the top.
• Securely tie all of the tyres together.
Driver airbag/ Passenger airbag:
Place the secured stack of tyres upright with the wheel on the bottom. With the trim cover facing
straight up, place the driver or co-driver airbag module on the wheel in the tyre on the bottom of the
securely tied stack of tyres, making sure that there will be at least 3 or 4 tyres (including the tyre with
wheel) above the tyre containing the airbag. (Refer illustration.)
CONTROL BOX – DEPLOYMENT TOOL
6. Connect the ends of the jumper-wiring harness from Control Box to the ends of the wires leading
to the airbag modules.
7. Connect the Alligator clips, use tape or other insulating material to make sure that the two leads
do not make contact with each other.
8. Notify all the people in the area that airbag deployment is about to occur, and move everyone at
least 30 feet from the airbag module.
9. Disconnect the leads on the wiring harness (from step 4) and reconfirm the Deployment tool
connections to the terminals of a 12- volt automotive battery. Once the contact is made, confirm
the power supply through Green indication lamp; if yes, press the trigger (black) switch, the
airbag deployment will occur.
10. Wear gloves and protective clothing. Allow the module to cool before handling.
11. After the module is cool; it can be recycled or disposed of as metal scrap. Keep water and other
liquids away from the airbags. If powder from the airbag contacts the skin, wash with soap water.
Description Torque Nm (lb-ft)

Pillar loop bolt/ Seat Belt Pre-tensioner flange bolt 45 ±5 Nm (33 ± 4 lb-ft)
PAB mounting bolts (Passenger airbag) 25 ±5 Nm (18 ± 4 lb-ft)
Airbag Module mounting bolts/ ECU flange bolt 8 ±1 Nm (6 lb-ft)
Driver Airbag Module Allen bolt 8 ±1 Nm (6 lb-ft)
Appendices
Table of Content
Abbreviations and Measuring Units………………………………….…………………………………
Lubrication Chart…………………………………………….…………………………………….……………
Do’s and Don’ts……………………………………………………………………………………..……………
Vehicle Preservation……………………………………………………………………………………………
APPENDEX – A
Symbols and Abbreviations -
PDI : Pre Delivery Inspection

VIN : Vehicle Identification Number
SL. No. : Serial Number
CQAV : Central Quality Assurance - Vehicle
ACC : Accessories
2WD : 2 Wheel Drive
4WD : 4 Wheel Drive
2WDH : 2 Wheel Drive High
4WDH : 4 Wheel Drive High
4WDL : 4 Wheel Drive Low
N : Neutral
T/F Case : Transfer Case
FIP : Fuel Injection Pump
HP : High Pressure
HPP : High Pressure Pump
CR : Common Rail
CRDe : Common Rail Diesel Engine
ECM : Electronic Control Module
TPS : Throttle Position Sensor
OEM : Original Equipment Manufacture
NOx : Nitrogen Oxides
O2 : Oxygen
SAE : Society of Automotive Engineers
CI : Compression Ignition
Measuring Units –
KM : Kilo Meter
CC : Cubic Capacity
Mm : Millimeters
Kw : Kilo Watt
RPM : Revolutions per Minute
Kg : Kilogram
Nm : Newton Meter
Amps : Amperes
Km/h : Kilo Meters per Hour
M : Meter
L : Liters
C : Centigrade temperature scale
APPENDEX – B
• Lubrication Chart - Refer below chart for SUV/SC/DC vehicle lubrication details.
The repair methods given by the manufacturer in this document are based on the technical specifications, current at the time of release. The methods may be modified as a result of changes introduced by the manufacturer in the production of the various component units and accessories from
which the vehicles are manufactured. The reproduction, translation, transmission, in part of or whole of the present document, are prohibited without the prior written consent of Mahindra & Mahindra Ltd. The use of this document by any person other than the trained personnel, at the
Authorized Service Centre of Mahindra & Mahindra Ltd., will amount to unauthorized use and shall be liable for penalty/prosecution© 2012 Mahindra & Mahindra Ltd.
APPENDEX – C
DO’S
1. Use recommended lubricants only. Replace oil in engine, gear box & transfer case, front & rear
axles, steering box & Brake & Clutch master cylinder periodically as per schedule.
2. Use only genuine oil filter and fuel filter elements.
3. In order to obtain trouble free and enhanced engine life, clean air filter element regularly. Replace
filter element when service indicator shows red band even after cleaning the filter element.
4. Ensure periodic servicing as per maintenance schedule.
5. Insist on use of genuine MAHINDRA spare parts for all replacements.
6. Allow the starter pinion to come to rest before again attempting to start the engine in order to
avoid pinion and flywheel ring gear damage.
7. Replace thermostat in the event of failure and ensure fitment of pressurized radiator cap to get
better engine life.
8. Maintain correct tyre pressures as specified in chart. Before moving the vehicle releases the
parking brake.
9. Maintain electrolyte level in the battery (using distilled water). Keep battery terminals clean and
cable joints tight. Apply Vaseline/petroleum jelly on terminals.
10. Disconnect alternator/battery/electrical connection while carrying out welding work on the
vehicle. Observe correct polarity when connecting battery terminals.
DONT’S
1. Do not run the vehicle with leaky air pipes, fuel pipes and water hoses.
2. Do not run the vehicle without a battery in its electrical circuit as the life of alternator will be
reduced.
3. Do not run the engine without radiator cap. Use genuine cap only, to keep system pressurised.
4. Do not open radiator cap when engine is hot. Never add cold water when engine is hot as this may
lead to cylinder head/block crack.
5. Do not continue to run the engine when temperature gauge shows more than 1000 C.
6. Do not use clutch pedal as a foot rest. It will cause premature wear of clutch plate, release bearing
and clutch finger /diaphragm and also result in high fuel consumption.
7. Number of passengers carried should be within approved seating capacity.
8. Do not race or rev the engine especially when starting. This is destructive to engine.
APPENDEX – D
• VEHICLE PRESERVATION –
RECOMMENDED VEHICLE MAINTENANCE GUIDELINES WHEN OUT-OF-USE

Long term storage of new vehicles requires special care to keep vehicles factory fresh and ready for
reuse. The following guidelines should be performed to minimise vehicle component/ part
degradation due to extended vehicle storage conditions.
STORAGE LOCATION & PARKING
• Vehicles should be stored in a Dry, Well Ventilated and Drained area with a Roof above.
• If an indoor storage area or other location with a roof overhead is not available, the following
conditions should be met:
- Location should be where damage to painting due to factory smoke, metallic powder, acid
rain, salty winds, bird droppings, tree sap etc. can be prevented.
- Floor of such a storage area should be paved and have good water drainage.
• Ensure to remove the Adhesive Film (if any) from Exterior Trim / Mouldings / Seats.
• Ensure that the Window Glasses are covered with cardboard or Cloth to prevent fading and
deformation of the Instrument Panel, Upholstery and Seats.
• Park vehicles with at least 3-feet gap in between them and enough space in the front and rear
to walk around.
• Park the vehicle in First / Reverse gear. DO NOT apply Parking Brake.
• Ensure that all windows / sun roofs are closed.
• Lift the Wiper Arm / Blade from the wind screen glass.
OTHER INFORMATION
If the vehicles in the storage area are exposed to salty environment, sea breeze, corrosion with rust
may appear in some of the ferrous parts. If rust is found, remove it and apply suitable rust inhibitor.
The disc brake rotors are made of cast iron and may show gradual build up of surface rust during long
storage, accelerated if the environment is salty. On a monthly basis, drive the vehicle to 50 Kmph and
brake normally to stop the vehicle to remove rust. Repeat this exercise at least 10 times.
Plastic materials used in the vehicle as well as insulation material of wires might attract small rodents
which nibble at these components. Inspect the vehicle for “Rat-bite” at the time of PDI/ reuse. Small
birds and rodents might find it interesting to build their nests inside air cleaners, exhaust system.
Inspect these areas thoroughly at the time of reuse.
 List of activities/checks to be done during vehicle long time storage condition -
 ELECTRICALS & BATTERY

• Ensure that all electrical accessories are turned OFF.
• Remove the memory fuse* (*if applicable).
• For Long Term Storage, it is recommended to remove the battery negative cable.
• Ensure to reset all memory related components before delivery to the customer.
• Test & charge battery, as per Battery service manual, before reinstalling.
 TYRE
• Inflate the road tyres to 20% - 30% higher than the recommended pressure. Ensure to reduce
the pressure at the time of reuse.
• Rotate each wheel by ¼ turn on a monthly basis. This is to prevent tyre flat spot from
developing.
 ENGINE
• Condensation may form within the engine, if vehicles are run for short intervals (5 minutes or
less) during storage.
• On a weekly basis, run the engine in idle for at least 10-minutes to avoid condensation
possibility. Also, gradually raise the engine speed to max RPM for 10-times to eliminate
moisture from the exhaust.
• Move the vehicle to approx. 30 to 40 feet to lubricate the Transmission / Differential
assembly.
 Drive the vehicle a little forward and backward once a fortnight.

 Cooling system - Add anti-rust to the water. Add antifreeze during cold weather.
 Cover the instruments.
 Clutch - Press the clutch pedal to the floor board and hold it in this position. Operate the clutch
pedal a few times once in a week, check and top-up clutch fluid in master cylinder reservoir once
in a month.
 Brakes - Operate the brake pedal a few times once in a week, check and top-up brake fluid in
master cylinder reservoir once in a month.
 Body - coat rust proof to all bright metal. Cover up with upholstery.

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Repair Manual MAN-00196

SUV/SC/DC L6 July 2012/Rev 1

TECHNICAL PUBLICATION CELL

Rev1 – JULY 2012

About this Repair Manual

• How to use this manual……………………………………………………………………….………….

How to use this manual

• Description section gives an overview of the functioning of the system.

1. Health and Safety Precautions –

Air Conditioning Refrigerant

Adhesives and Sealers

Corrosion Protection Materials

Fuel Handling Precautions

Fuel Tank Repair

To avoid severe burns:

• Static electricity may damage internal electronic components.

Guidance to safe working

2. Precautions for repairing a vehicle in the workshop

Preparation before dismantling the vehicle parts

• Clean components and surrounding area prior to removal.

Dismantling of the vehicle parts

Environmental protection precaution

Accessories and Conversions

Workshop Tools and Equipment

Hose Removal and Installation

Inspection during Removal/ Disassembly

• Specified oil/lubricant should be applied to the moving components of parts.

Use recommended/appropriate gauges and testers while making adjustments.

Rubber Parts and Tubing

Prevent fuel or oil from spilling on rubber parts or tubing.

• Legend of the Standard Operating Procedure Symbols

• Legend of the Safety Symbols

Term/ Symbol Denotation

WARNING indicates a potentially hazardous

CAUTION indicates a potentially hazardous

CAUTION used without the safety alert

Indicates important information relevant to

If you see this symbol, it indicates “no”, “do

v Refer following chart for SUV general speciﬁcations –

M-Hawk 2.2 L Diesel L6

v Refer below chart for SC/ DC vehicle speciﬁcations –

M-Hawk 2.2 L Diesel L6

Refer below chart for SUV vehicle lubricaƟons recommendaƟons –

Refer below chart for SC & DC vehicle lubricaƟons recommendaƟons –

Cylinder compression pressure Test

Engine cylinder Head Gasket Failure Diagnosis

An engine cylinder head gasket leak can be:

Cylinder to Cylinder Leakage Test

Cylinder to Water jacket Leakage Test

• Remove the radiator cap.

Symptom Causes Remedial action

4. Restrictions in  Remove the restriction in the

8. Worn out rings, liners, and  Repair Turbocharger.

Blue smoke. 1. Clogged air filter element.  Replace element.

4. Improper earthing.  Rectify earthing.

Noisy valves 1. Thin or diluted oil.  Change oil.

Oil leaks 1. Worn oil seals  Replace seals.

Care of the System

• Check the vacuum hoses for any leaks, cracks.

• Retighten all nuts and bolts as per the recommend torque.

Engine oil –SAE 15W-40

ENGINE OIL – DRAIN & REFILL

 Park the vehicle on level ground/2 post lift /4 post lift