bags

Creating '& IErmbell.Ushlng 401 Great,-Ilooking IBags

~ or' a s ho "II!.-iii- a-s h' 'e' ls--, te-.'"', s: t, 'c'll u" - " [ce'-n-'[~ lb' s '," I ,,'. , " Maldllyn-., but I ~ · ru prove '~i to you. most respectfui'v ,disagre"e. ,A diamond is not ,a gir~"s, best friend. Wha't a gi:rl r9,a 1111ly A handbao cain be as basic or as, complicated as you'd like it; with wants is a fabulous. neverb sen seen beforeQ I:. ,J n-'ta;;;;Jl6 '.~'... -_ bu "I--t' ca .. even onlv your jmalg'i:naf~on .se,tt~ng ,hie handbaq, Unless she "wants two or Hmits~ The' kev to a reallv cool ba:g is three said handblags. If 'you've got an artful desiqn Bind a wonderful ., .' fabric and th- e - - principles -" 'W' 'or'k : II', ,v·" e I' I, '.I "se " 111~1_: .','~: to carrv all the iimportant stuff ot • · : W'9;~ fo any s iape or slze of purse, your life-money, IID~ kevs, debit ~ card, cell _Ihonle~ e,n[8Ir QY bar, sweet ~ In this book, vou'Il learn how to lair ~ i,eI'S p icture, Bind favorite Iipstick (10,1 : a fantastic fabric with a celicious design to create ¥[olur own artistic course) 'you may as well do it with statement, Ad!d ernbetlishrnents like flair., 'Your really important stuff beads, embroidery, applique, even should be happily tucked ,away in the, most deliglhtf:rully perfect packfound coiects or hardware to cornPi ete' your vision, And then carry it aqe you can find .or can make" in the case ot this, book. W,I ether 'you .' around with you everv day on dis· call it vour handbaq, your purse, .' playl The' handbag is the velry defini.', . • .' tion of art-to-wear (well, rnavbe ert,. your pocketbook, or 'Y[OLJr best .. ~ ~ . friend it. sho uld be ,a reflection of .. to-carry at leastl, 'You certainlly need ,. ,. ,. .. a varietv o'f purses" too: some Id,8'yS. your personahtv, however coo: or sophisticated or rQuirky [or e[dgy or you just feel hipper ihan others, SID Y'O'l) need a collection that reflects dramatic A hanldlbalg iiisthe perfect B!II your moods. oooortunrtv tO express yourself to the world, s~' ce it's the one acces IDid you ever think about buvinq a sorv 'you can't do without, end the rather=oh, how sha,1111 :s,ay'it?-'plain' one vou have with you every s'~ngl;e purse Bind us~ng your considerable oav. And 'if YIQU'V[8 got to carry it, it : taillents 'to adom it'? Hip HBrl[dbags has may as well be hl~pll Makinlg and .· , : more than ,8 dozen examples of ernbellishinq handbags is reallv .' ~ Iprettify'ing a purchased bag' that Ibegls easy and 'will keep your collection as stylish ,as the next runwav show ~ for more decoration. (Most of th[ssls;

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Generallv speakingf YIOU;U want lal material that's 18 little liglhtlsr in w'eight than the fabric vou're usinlg '1[0 make the baq. This decision is a personal '" c h· o-ce. [D vou want a COin rastmq I'· t.'o Il1lng or one t hat rni d S 'Its own st rrun business in the background?' The liningl material you chOOS,I8 Qluglht to be as durable as the' ,b,alg itselt because you wan'[ the, two t.IO' I[ve happilv ever after. 'rour fabric and vour rn~nlgshoulld have compatible laundorinc squiremen-s.
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Whe'n vou shop for [I[ll;ninlg~ be sure to take, a swatch oi your fabric so you can trulv compare the color, w'e~ght., ano texture, Don 't trust your memo ....tOI gauige' t -e color of the fabric vou've got on the shetl at horns. Word to the wise.

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Lini~ngfabrics should be consldered .~ust as calrefuUy' as the fabric for the exterior of your handbatg.

Select the

.terfaclng
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Yes, vou'll likelv want to add intsrtacinq, too.There are a billion weilghts of rnterfalc~'ng~ both fusible enid sew-in types. to suit everv bal'g., USU81[lliIYi' the more structured this baq, the heavier you'll want your interfacing to be". Buckram (the stiff stuff that keeps the b,~[II[IIOf 'your trucker hat ln shspe) is very rig'id[; crinoline, as in the old P stt.iOO 8tS,. also provides a ~ot:101 lbody" Hair canvas is the' traditional in'[lerfac.iingl UlS8'd in tailoring and has some f~lexib~[lity.(Yes it's actuallv made with hair. From a goat.,)
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The, fine folk at vour fabric store will surely be friendly if vou're feellin,g .squ~rre!~y' about the selection. Te IIII them what: kind of fabric you're using end a little, about the design of your bag and they can help vou decide which one is best. lt's impor ant you tell them what kind of fabric voure using~ because fusible interfacinqs aren't suitable for all fabrics: follow the' manufacturer's instructions when usiing' it. Havinq the proper iinterf.aG'i"ng is an important part of C'f 9,atin g a hancbaq that looks the 'way' vou want. it: to. S,O' do consider vour choice carI8fUl~~Y.
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61i To ins .all the ziplper placket, mark the tOIP center of one' lot the bag pieces. Then find, and mark the center of 'this Ilonlg sioe of the, zipper placket, With r~glht s,~d,es together, lios up tbs center marks and pin the z~ppe. placket tOI the bag. You~~11 n 8sd
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ease' he two pieces toqether:

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gr.ain~'ine!
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m'ight find it's easier to pin the, first sectior of this seam and then lease around f ',9 curves as you sew. B,egirn and end the seam 1V2 inGh away from tile edge:' be careful not to stitch the' handles iinto the seam, IRe'ps'at to stitch the plecket to t '9 other bagl piece (fjgur8 2). Clip the curves,
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'7 To in sta 1III e g usset, baste th e' th buckram to 1he wrong side of the Iglus,set Si "',chingl at 'the searnline.
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Trim the' buckram close to the seemline, Open this zipper about 1 Inch. PI~ace' endot th 8 g'usset on one th'9 end of the, zioper Ipl,8C'k et rr;"lght sides
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qusset rnav he,lIp ylOIU ease around the curves.) Bepeat to stitch the oth er side tf g II re 3,)1,. Irim thl9 Gar ners. Fulilly open the' zipper and turn the [bag r~ght sioe out. Press the seams as b oest y'OUI can.

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Sill No'w make this ~'in'in,g.(TIh~IS~ISbasi- : cally Ilinlinj,_. :', In I _.:5Idb agl 'BasicsJ ~ · 81,egin by making the zipper placket · · Iliningi as in step :2 but don't install ! the zioper, of course, Construct the rest 0" the 1~lning in steps 61 and 7.. as Press ',his ~iin:~ng seams open.
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and end'ing at the, 1h-inch seemline,
Hepeat to stitch this other end of the

glusset to the zipper placket,

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the work so you stitch around one side, to the bottom of the
turn

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balg,j continuinq around this seerrfine b~egunwhten you edded the zipper placket. Pivo'! at the' corners and stii'tch LJ ntlill yOU! reach the ot hier end of the zioper [placket. (Clilppingl a scant 1/4 inch into the seam olf the

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Make the round

10~Wi'th the I~ningwrong side, out, place it inside the 'bag~ Whipstiteh the Illiningto the' zipper tape, Try to ·d·· your ··t· C JIBS oest you .:." -.' hILe '.... Sll~"t· ··h·· as be t .''." can
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these' insuuctions, too. LOtS81 room for Illotsa stuff in that one!!!

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Snecial Tools, and Materia s

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Decoratcr '1',a~; de GO rater cotton ~e: ~ accents: satin lining

, ,ow It"S/l,,'eren~ t H- l~' D'" ..f' f
reallv: this h,andbagl was just constructed from two different Iabrcs, the, faille for the body of the bag and the cotton for the Igusslet~, lacket, and straps". p
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Fold the clipped edqes o;f the back

around 0 ne ot the firsmes I[f'iguFie 1)r and fold the clipped edqes ot the front around another one", Attach
the side panel to the frame around the back
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han,dbBJ,g at the top where' you want to attach the handle, with the foilld. . ed side f,81 c iii rlgi the front. Twist 'it ~ over the, 'front of the frame and ~

~ bend the folded end down to, create ~

b'8g pattern piece and clip the wire

: a latch, W'rap 'the, raw ends of the, : latch piece's around the back frame. closed, Fold the: clipped edqes of the remaining side panel around the ~ Hepeat to attach the other latch piece (f~gUlre 2J.,Attach the hsndle third frame, Attech this frame to the fro,nt at the bottom edqes t)'y flo,rmto the lstch pieces usinq a small piece ot wire. 'lack the 111~n'ingto the ing simple hinges with loops of inside of the' wire frame with ne'9craft wire. d~I,e and thread.
fold the w'ires Cut a 26~inch ~englth of craft wire and fold ~Itinto a 13-~'nc:hI~en'gthso
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of chicken wire this. W8'y~ one for' 'the front and one for the back, 'Iape the gusset and ziiip,p1er placket

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there ar,e ~OOIPS at: both lends; the, ·d c:II~'p,ped '8s should be '" tr e rmo-l edg lin .h
dle, Startinq " inch from th,€ end of

pieces toqether into a ~Iongsde panel and c'llip this shape from tbe chicken wire. Use, the craft: w!'re to

. tne . form three frames. u,slnJig h penrnetar of this b,8J'g pattern as 8 'guidB:~

a ~IOO'Pf use the craft wiiire to wrap 'tiglhtly eround the Ilength of toldec wi rei 111,ea'ving a: '1 ,-i nch loop at the other end. (111n the process vou'll enclose the, raw ends thai aria foldaid to the rnidcle.l Bend the wrapped wire irrto the shape of a
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Cut two 16... inch pieces lof wi~r,eend

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We,ll, there's not much, reallv, This ~ is, 0 1' course, the round version of ~ stitches 'to accent the desiqns Ion .' This Traveler; and it's got ,s little zip- ; 'your fabric. In this project, simple ~ .. per pull added before tho gusset is runnin'Q stitches and! French knots sewn to the placket. Make a zipper add fanciful little 'flourishes, I(S'ge pu~~ 8 strap; rs!ally-sav S,trap .A like page 216 for illustratiions.) in Hlanldlb,ag B,B:sics (p,ag,e 119), This, -s '. ··8···· t oout l' i\ 1· menh fiInIIS' ~,1.,.",d r: , '<, , ,t..f'····· _ ..'" ... h One" ,., 1111111's- b 1

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them flat: onto the purse end then fold them in half at ebout tho 2,-·inch mark. Stitch to form a
narrower strap,

This balg is made from three coord~i nat.~;ng fab rics: o ne tor es ch of the sides and a S,9SSY stripe for the- gusset end zipper placket,

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II l na INlkola ii vn al r ,M'oscow Mink, 200'

m Wnk, and mot her-of-pea rl~
P'HOTO BV IDA,VID FAIRCHILD

Denton IF.Ku m ptf,o,r Poes t~S Twfs:te1cl'Tria, 2,00,4
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PHOTO BV .sTEVE IHELJ9E:IR

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Ch ristl ne Brown Domi:no,ssr ,2004 5 x 112 x 2~ i1nll (:12..1 x 3:0,,5 x 6i!.4 elml) ' S~~lk,;' horn inl,aJd w'lth mother-of-pea CUlt
PrH'OTO BV' ARTIST

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Oils;

Jennifer Nakai S . Arntson SpacfJ'-B'I'us' RII"p/,e Appliqu,9 Should,'e 'To,~e, 2010141,
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,PTtetty RISd' Upr 2:004 8~ x 11 '1'~ x ,4, in. (2 ~ ~6, x ,29 2 x . ~1,2c:m)

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~5x '1)t, ~ in, (1~2,.7x 17,.,S, x fL4. elMI) Ston 1t!IWaJe:", fiUE~wS,plFrnnt, slcryli'c; lace, beads, and oil pencil
PHlIOTO BV SUZAlrNJIIINJIE,KAU F MeA NI

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BY' LAIR !1l;'V SAN DERS

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et's get down to the nitty'-gritty~ 'W'h,at kind of sewing skills do
'you need 'to have tOI make a baq? Just the most basic,

reallv:

iif you've 'put in a zipper and l'ined anvthinq, you understand the fundamentals .. Generally, you C1an make a baq in a dev (dependi'ng on your catfeine intake). so it's not a lon'g drawn-out [project like getting your s~gniiflilC'ant other to put the~ dishes in the dishwasher within !a ,2,4-hl'o,urtime pe iod. Still wo,rking on that mvself. ; 'There, are ,a number of techniques that are' used repeatedly throuqhout · ~ rhe book to construct these chichi handoaqs. A.nd the rle,a~!~y grea"" tlhin'g is • · • : that you can Ch'OOSr9 thr9 details you want end add them to vour own bag. • : There are seven b,aSI~Gatterns-> The Clutch, This Messencer, This Tote, p • The Tuck, The Vessel, The F~iiilrt,and 'The Traveler-> followed by the tabu proiec .s that are constructed from these desiqns, n the ba'g patterns enid the project instructions" vou'll see constant references to this, chepter. · I~ know WB,Jve been halving a lot ot fun so far, brut now 'you need to concentrate for a few rni n utes,
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:and'om Orbi _ G',rouping 2003 IDim nsions vIlry
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~Jonles

ti n ICIBlnIS, - ed 'woaops tur .~n d 1le,otl' Ileal _ '. II "'IS . 11:&" I al 'chain; paliin and glo,l. I.~af
1'10 I 0< IV JI 'R,Y AINITHIONV

'eii ar box; ,coUag,8 fro -- '~.{nta e

-i: '~IO- 3 7 x 8, 3 in. ( 7~81".: 2D~31 : 7 ~16CI
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_Sandsted - -, all 'o,r:~ Hot

,e1phe.'meral; iandl . from pcrcelal . fa ILlI CII't f xtu re
P IHOTO IBV ST IEV E MIE:l T21EJA

Carol Gaczek ~, if... , , - II ,Love 5-;f~aC,i\ "5-'''''- - --:8' a',fj, il'120'liIl"fII4 - ';ltIO'ne - - ,.~' U' , '1~ x 16 x 5 iin. t29~,2 x '1Et2 x 12,,7 Ic:ml) Ceramic- sculpture (birdhouse);' sinqle fired, hand carved, ano S arnped
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PiHOTO BY' ART~ST

Shula P _I:Z Fl-' nkv D'~n'im 1'1. _. :bag' _ -- ,20014 _u ~V _ v ·~and·· - ,., - - ." 1 x 9 1.12 x 2 ii n, (27 9 ,x-'4,. 'lx 5 em ' H 31 III " Ib lUI iIi' Iceram ilc; Iow-f re 19 Ieze s; feat he r tr'j m
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lPHIOTO BV KAj~1 PEJ'OV~'CH

'W'B'nd'v Stevens P!snns' Purse, 2'003 5 )C, '9 X 3~, n~ (112~'1x 2,2:.9 x .a.,9 ern) E,m bosse d an d h ii 9 h li 9 hts,d sta inile SiS stes l, lieath erg ussets .8 n d st ra P;' h n Ige'd wrnt hi p lvot closu re; hi a nd fabr'i,c:ate~d
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P'HO,TIQ BY PAUL HAZ'~

'W 9'nd'v' :Stevlsn:g, Bu,o'na ,S's'ra ,Ha,n1d'ba',f}". 2:00,2 .~ '-' ~,1J.. ,. -'-1::1:; _., In. " -'-1 0-:;' .. : }i[ ,'i·-· g-JfIAI. ''-iI'!,.. ,~, , IFII, 8X ~ )(, ~':j,it. X 74, a
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PHOiliO B,V PAUL HAZI

E r'i'C:BI h,8JVelr Sed. lu""". ~n'n- "9,' 9,-. 9···· ""t·; "'"' '~,'v .JI_, li'A' m n ,~n 3' A ~ n '1' -.~ (Q' c rn ~ ? <) ,n. ~ ,/4 VI!] X '-,,-" it an '-- "'4,~ -I""inn 'g,l ver, ste -'-I"" c,aS,11. '. "dS ee S ter _II~I~:~ ="-1' 'fa b ri e ated, fires hw,at,e r IP,e rl~ ill s
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Skybiird

1" x 12 x ,2 i~ (27 J) x 3:(t5 x 5 ern) n. S,i'lkl F,i9'yont vellvet;: rnacblne ,qlUii~ted',;copper-plated fern 'frond
PHOTO BV ARTIIIST'

f:ond

0" ,Ferns, 2003

Li'nda and Opie OtI8Iri~an/B,ulrni- Offelringlsi

Prom Ha'fvss:t t,o' H,a'ndbi,ag: Tbe Gourd PUrse, ,2:003 :9 .x 7' x 5 ln. (,2::t9 x 117J3 x 1:2,,7 elm) Lageln,a ria 910UI rd; lPyrogtr alp,hy; vl ntallge d ommcas, C.Olills,;·,e'91 d Sit anod J08:9 paper ~ ., b l
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sruD ~o ROSS I

Lo,ri' Mull',e!f' Bamboo Hanildb'iJ',g:, 2i[)I04
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PHOTO IBV LAUCH MICKE,N,LIE

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Joan K,. Morrii:s: UI nit it IIed 210.104
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_ .__ x a-:'"Ull., ~'"",) 2.x 2,·,n '3" ern ) e '- \ 15 ·U,." :Siilk brocade;' _ead aecen
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IfHIOTO BY KEITH WR GilHT

Sharrnen l.iao Am'p'h~'ra, 201011 , 1 X'S's. ,x I I _.' '(21' X 116' I:: ,X·'~- 15-' elm,~ .. . I:::. rz "~ 1".,~' " '2' oom-knltted wire mesh and silk IiIning; pearls
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I~~IO'TO BY ARTIST

11.-:

'Moo [Roo Ca'th erine, 2010 4, 7'~ x 3 x 5, ln, ('~191 x 1J)1 X 11,2,,7 cml Turquoise and cheetah print silk charmeuse: custom crvstal sp'r,8'y J,e'well
1

PHOTO IBV JOIE MEDIA

1'!Cll! 0'
~.

1 2"", \ 11-(iii c;: min, II t:, 'v' '1__ 1.' !/!'N'm'" 'l' \LQjii~.:I\., S;i1lllk, fabric ,CJ nd thread; hand em broide red; see d bead S
'V' I'I~ ,A IU l~ tFJII[)'
iii ~i': ~

lrtna INiko~alivna Tripi to J,i!Jip\an 21010::3:
t

P,H'OTOS

elY D'AV11111D FAI~[R,CIHILDi

KSltlhy Tlcho

Sq'uare ,D,a,nc,e" ,2003 10; x 9 X 51~ min., (11!tS~2 x 2:2,.9 x 14 ern)
1

EIlzabeth

D'ic.ki,(9! IS D.e,ng,ht 20103
l
1

»: S,c,1h10 ck

Woo II; ha n dI kn i'l an dI fie'lted; b utto n elos
PHOTO BV EI~,H::~ERZ'OIG

U 1F1I

16, x 110 x 5, 'in, ~,40,16; x 25".4, x 12,.1' crnl Crocheted stai nless steel wii re, copper, a nd IP,en s,Ih'~'111 en l31 meled 50;
PIHQTO BV ARrIS,V

,SIkyb

mira
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1

E'v,e of ,Isis 2010,3 '0 )( 'Lx " i1n" (2:5".,4 x 2,2,.9 x 2~5 em) ,Si lk, velvet, eou c he:d 'Va Irnl:S; he n d-wrapped, beaded embellishment of' 's:ilk 'w~tnstamped polvmer c,~a,y
IPHOTO BY ARl'ISl"

B a rbara Zailre'tslk.v
Ullntmt led, ri'. ,. d ~1h, X 1~A,'.- .. , ~6- I,.,_~' ,x g -,1" -I~, lin ~lIe 15 '
'"II1117' ,.Q ~ O'Ii"l'lm--- II \ -

IFound black velvet bag wi'tlh gold metal clasp; b eade dI a In d 8' m b rOIj' d e re d: p,~ le be a ds, cotton 'f! to 8S" ast arid V~ ~1'vl~,t ord ii n9 e
PH OT'O BV IKE~T~ WFt IGMT

lisa IKI,ak~:lalk Gri()upi ,Shi{Jlt 0,," Sp1rin,fJ' ,2004 Se,ries, 2004 V'ar'i'o,us dimensions Wo Q! I; h 811fi1 d fs'lted,. n at U ra IIIV' dve d; ,S P Iiq u ad" I mach ine and hand s,ti'1t!cned
1

I':)

PHOi['O IIV JOHN LUCUS~

rrv

PHOTOSERV:iCES

Liind,a MlacMlcha1e'l

81 -_ -

Tim Clark

Cla'o, ,2003
B~ x 7~ x ~ in, 1(21.18 x 19 x : .1,3 ern) S j'lk and faux :SI uede: to psti~tc:h,edl lain d p j' eC1eld[;

handmade -.~umnh'imo blral~d
PHOTO e,y TO'M MillS

1-'1:'1
~-.,

Ev:ening Puree, 2:1003, 4· x 6; x 2 i1n~(1 1~1.2 x 11!5~2 x 5 ern)
Polymer elav, ,adJltUS,tabl,e' shoulder cord:

IKJath ~e e!I1i DI ustJ In

scu~ptedr baked, hialnd rendered;' ~alve'ed, sa nded en d pol lshed
f

~HIOTOI BV G1EOf-iGE POST

Linda Malt(~:Mlh::h,aell and Ti'm Clark Momm,Y, 2:004 LlQi x l' X '3J4 in .. 1(25..4 x 17'[£8 x 1.. em)' 9 Smllk and faux suede: inkj 8 t photo transfer, ir18lnd and mat,chrnn,e 19Imbrolj;dery';' handmade Kumihimo sn ap, bead~ng
1

l1

1

PHOTO BV TOM MIIIllS

.AJ~lison IP~ S,anders Faices'r 2:1004 '1 "'!II, X l:_ x'2'z "" \',." x 'ii'15 2" X :_,crru ,- 6"" '-'.-5 . m, "3"3'
,~i ~I"L

Stained gl,as:s,; copper
PHOTO BY ARICCA VOL:"~

'W'ifif!l'",

virntage earrlng clasp

12,-

Emlmly' Hsu and Mlarg,aln::tlltGates Mlorrio'wlMlyna BSIIgS Carrie' C/utc,h'j 2'0104 6; x 10 x ,3 in, (,15,.,2 ,x 25".,4 x '7'J3 ern) Cotton plque n o'V 9,I1'ty pr~nr~; fl'Q'wer with rhlnestone pin, Qlro,sQ1rslmn r~bbon
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1

IPHIOTOBY EMlilY ~15U

,Adlriien Lucas
L,i:Q uil(J'

'~2,

Psieie YI' 1~6U)'91 x '12 x :3: in, 1(30,,5, x 30,,5 x
beads

7,,16, ern)

'Taff'€ital; I~':mllbroiidleqry';! atin rosettes s

and 'Viintagle

Czechoslovakian Torie Ngluy'enlTo,ti'nette La Pair.isielnne,~ 201041 '1 x 1,2 Win., (117',,8 x ::3'0"!5, em" Cotton and d1enmlml;' button closure
P~IOTO

PHOTO, BY BRUCK E:CKER

I'Y' CHRliiST111INIE ,GEORGE

124

Standard Tcchntques
A ba'gl can have' onl~y one pattern piece, like This Clutch (lgu1ess what it looks like?) .. Most of the' designs have just three: a b.ag piece {from w'hiiic:h vou'll cut both the front and the back of the blag)I, a bottorn piece (square or round perhaps), sind straps (or handles), Very simple. Here are some common construction methods that wlillll~1 transform these pieces into your new handbag. Since "vie convinced Y'OIU that Y'IO'U must line your baq, lillet"s start there .

... .·.ld a LL_"I·· g .
Basicallv, you construct the lini'ng with the, same pattern pieces that you uSia 110 make tbe brag. There are' 'VNIO methods of iinllngl used in the bag patterns. The' first, Linin,g ,A, used in The Tote, The Iuck, 'The Vessel, and The Hirt, is stitched in place w~th 'your Slewing machine. lL!nin,g IB is whipstitched to a zipper by hand.
in this seam allowance. Match the

side' s.eams. Stitch (fi'gurs' 2)~ then trim this seam snd clip this CUlrV',BS, 3,- Turn the b,ag' ri,ght side out
through 'he 5-i rch opening in the' bottom of the lin~ng (filgure· 3). That's why vou shouldn't forqet tbat ~i~tt~I,e it in italics wn step .,~ b

1,. Fi rst, stitch
1

the

front end black

Stitch the oplen~rlgl closed by hand or machine. Push the lining into the balg and press the top ledlge., Topstitch if you want tIO.,

:
~

.,

Irigh't sides tac·~;ngl.Thien add the bottom ~Iiningpiece" again with rilght sides tooether, but ieeve ,Q 5~inc'hsection o.pe1n' in'the bottom (f~gure11) ~ Don't forget the Iitt Ie' bit ~inital ics 10 r 'You'll be sorry. Trim the seams and press them open. Leave the' lining wronq
bag nning pi Be:8'S toqether,

• • ,
m

·
~

· • · •

, .,
l'

side out,

e. ·1 ,1~I_ s ::'111_8S 2 W·'t'h r'·I·g-ll\....t id -

t-. ·.1

oget-h !-~:ye~..

t'.

-- ~"In .. SI~1~I .'·1.-.:'

the

Ilining over the b,ag and alig!n thl9 top edges. Pin them together, rnakinq sure the ha dies ollre between the fabric and this iinl~ngand not cauqht


,F

.,

·

.,

· • · ·

1MiUli mlstlB Ii5, l~mlml'l elfn jm1eters, (c'ml]
~

Ilne,hes

Millliilmieters (mm~l C"e,n-'~iimeters 1(lcmJ
21.6 ern ,22.9 ern
23

MUillimleters (mml I Cen'"lmleters 1(leml)
5B.4, em " 59,.7 em

3,

I

I.m

8112

3A6

5 mml 6 rnrn 8 mm
9.,5

2

1f2

"4
3AJ

9112'
110
110112
11 11 Y.2
-

24.,' em 25~4em
26.7

2424''12

61 eMI
162.2 ern
63m5 lem
64~B em

mm

em

2!S
25'~

r,s
1t2
Y16

1." em 1 ,3 em

27.91 em

29,2 em
30.5 lem

26
26~

66 em
167'.3, elm

1.4 em
1~61 em

12 '2.~
13

% '1.116
3J4
1~6

27
33 em
3,4~3em

69.6 ern

1.7 em
1.9

27\2
28

1699 em
•••• ;II ••

em

31n
11-4·
~14~

7' .,1 em
72.,4 em 7'3.'1

2." em 2.2. em

a,5A" em
3,6.8: em

28:1,2 2.9

119
15f'6

em

21.4 em
2,5

151 151112
16

38,' eMI
39.4 em

291.1.l

14;9 em

1

em

30
30~

16.2 em
77.5
78.7

11t.z
2

3.,8, em

11I0.6 em 41.9

em
em

51 em
6.4 em
7.S em 8.S em 10.2 em
1 1.4 ern
12.7

1 BY.2
17 17~
~'a(~

ern

,31
311h

.2~ 3 ,3112
4

43 2 em
. .

80 em
81.3 em
82.6 em

44,,5 em
45.7 em

32
32~ 33 33~
34

yard)

11:81;2

47 ern

.83.8 em
85,

4tn
5

"91 191112
2QI

48.31 ern
49.5 em

em
em

em

86.4

114 em

50.8 em 5.2 em
53~3 54J5

34~

87'.6

em

6

15,.2 em 16.5 em
17.8

20112 21

35 3,5"h
36 (1 yarJ

,88.9 ern
90,,:2 em
91.4

6~12

t
711h 8

em

,211t2.
2:2 22Y2'

em

19 em 20.3 ern

55 ern
57.2 em

· •
i

~

·

· · · .' ,

·

In tall a Zippe

• •

: · ln The C'llutch and The TravI81~8'r~ ~ two baqs with zipper closures the

: This technique works very well for · zippers ~n ihan,dbragls. t s used in the : basic patterns for This Clutch and
j',

: I~ninlgis stitched to the, zipper tapis

: by hand. ,
0i0IIiIIi.

-----.-......a.~

,
J

I

~

I

~

· ; 11~ Take the lininlg pieces and con· : struct them BIS vou do the, bagl, with · ; rig:ht sides tlogetlhe~! but leave the' • " ~ top ,edge oper (where, the zipper ~ ~ISlOin the h,andlb,ag). Stitch in from ~ :., the edqe for 1 inch (fiig ure 4); '. ~ ~ clip Biny curves.
i

·

·

This Traveler, IH'BIF'e'sthe best part= it's muy easy' too. O'nll'y two steps.
1 Place the' a ppropria ,,8 fa bric pieces ri,ght sides toqethor and pin them in place along tbe edg 8 where vou'Il install the zipper, From each edqe, stitch for 1 inch, leavi ng the middle open (fi:gure, 6 L
l 1
l

m

" ; ~ • ·

w

"

·
m

~ ~ ~ ~ ~

~

· ; 2, Turn -he seam allowance

·

u- der ; 12.'re ss the seam open, turninq on the open portion of the' l'inin,g and · under the, raw edqes in the middle. ~ : press. Leave 'the ~inlngr wrong side, : Place the Z"P ,P'81r' under the pressed · ~ out ,(figure 5). Place it inside the : edges end pin in place (fi,gure 7)1.
1

~ Iba'Q,matching the seams, : 'WhipS'1titch this pressed edge of the , ; I,~ninlg this zipper tape, hilding 'the to · 1 stitches as much as possible, , · ~ 5,0 while we're taJ~k'ng about · ~ zippers, let's learn how tc.; • · · , '" ·
"

·

· Use your zippier foot and bisgiiin : stitehinq at the' top, ot the zipper
·
·

,. " ~ ., ., ., .,

~ you reach the end of this zipper: ~ li'ft tbe zipper foot, ~e,avingthe nee= ~ dil,e in the down position, and pivot : the, fabric" Lower the zipper foot • and stitch across the bottom of the ; z'ili ' oer, Pivot alg,aiiin~stitch back u:p ; 'the other side ot the zi'PP'SfJ' pivot, ·
~ and stitch across the top (figure 8).,

~ and ·

continue down one side until

YOrU

probably ,allrs,adly know

· · • · · •

this" but V'OU can sasilv make a nylon coiil zippier shorter to, fit ii'n any size ooeninq 'your little' heart desres. ,A~I ou eed to y do is stitch ,i!lICrOSS this bottom of the zipper [a,few times
where you want it to end, rnaki -_9 vour own zipper stop, and t e'n cut off this excess lenqth of the zipper. II'm still

· • · • •
·

Check to make
runs freelv,

SUire

the zipoer

.. ., .. .'. " .~ ,.
~ ~ .,
ill


~ ~

workinq on m,ak.~ng,azipper longer.

~ ~

.' "

., .' .. •

· ·

· ·

IUse a vSJw'iertv of
hooks t'CI attac h st ra p s to 'V'O UI r

~ ..
,

.., .

handbaq,

.

I~fit's Illolnlg~ it's, astra p,; ~ifit's shorter,
it's a bandle, but the method is this

same to make your own from fabric, Here, are' several variations, Ask vour bag which ore it wants.

i

To make the straps, first ,BPlphl

fusible '~nterfac'~ng the wrong sides to

If you use f,al~'rl'yheavv or stiff tabric, which you certainly miqht for a handb,ag~, don't, don't, don'! try to make long straps or handles bly turning them insde out. It makes for a very unhappy sftemcon ot sewinq b ee'a U $,9' th ~ v,ery diff 1' ~,:,~' .. ~'III_,_: I_ley· re .,.~,' cult to turn. UIS' 9 the more ,agree ... eble technique that fO~~'OIWS.
1

'of each oleos F,o,ldIone':' strap piece in half lengithwiiis'€, dght sides togeth ... , er. Stitch the le'nglth of the strap, pivot at the, cornet ,enid stitch across one end (figulrs' '9l. Hepeat for this ~
.. _ . . ~. _ _ ~ ,' ...... ,'! _ ',' _ .. _ '.' __ '", '.
I.

I'

"._ "'.

j'

_",

.;.

~.V

STRAP H,
An easv

way to make a strap is to simplly fold the edqes in fold in
h,a~f~, stitch. This works well for and' skinny little straps or little skinnv
IOIOIIPS, both

second strap. Turn the straps inside out through the open end, 2~,No,w that you've turned the straps, trim the seam from 'the

used in The Flirt

• •
r

;

1 To make the, straps, fold the, pieces ~Jnhalf lengthwise

short ends so each strap has tW'OI open ends with raw 9 dg 8S" Priess. both pieces flat with seam i'n the
1 1

:
;
~

w'IFong' sides togethe,r" and press. FOI~d,the two raw edlges into the
pressed crease in the center ,and

center

I(filgu re 1 0) '"

[press aga.in '[figure " :2,)1.

Fiigure, 1:2

3 Pin the straps to this balg as desired. riqht sides toqether.

You'(H be llooking at. th'B seam in the strap if vou "VB' glot it riqht, B,s Sill re the, straps are situated as shown {figure 11}.

· 2~ Fold the strap in halt a'gain~ lenqthwise, ano stitch as close to the, e,dg'9 as you can (filglufle , 3),

Ires

tscite.

t9

"

c'" ....

An alternate, method is to insert cordling into the strap', as ~nThe

To!get the cord into the strap, use th IS. not erv teo 'chn"c' al-.y'e-"-:',....::'1 [~: ,_ . II'-VI, ,'-='IC7 : fI ..L:'~ to, h'lghly'

Traveler lnstead of bei'ng sewn into ~ 'the sealm OJ ound the tOPI of the ,. : . an,dba!QI ..these straps are se'wn or-to the outside' of the, balQ
~

· ..

:

111~ 'To make 'the straps, take the pieces of' fabric vou've cut 8n[d fol,d

· efficient method; Talpa one end ,o,f the cord 'to this end {llf the chopstick. ,anid scoot the chopstick through the ; strap. Once the cord is throuoh, li'lblerate th[e chopstck (figur,e '14). There lare other ways tOI f 8 ed the, cord
l
1

~ them toqether 1~lenlgthw~se, right.

:
F[_gurrI! 15

::
'" ~

· · •
i

,.

·

sides toqether Before you sew: adiust the 'width of: 'the, seam[ SOl the cord has just snouqh room to slide i'; '11![[8 :.' 1:= e voi, -e stitc II· into tk strio a' er vou' V'=·:,I.[~ " bed tne seam, Stitch across one short. end, pivot, and stitch down t.h18~Ionlg sice. Turn th,e strap rig'lht side out, No'w that vou've turned the st: ap, trm the seam from the short: end so you have two open ends, just as in Strap A,.,
M

throuqh: attach lt to for example.

IOJ

safetv piiln~,

3~ Center the cord inside 818Jchstrap; · the e should Ibe excess fabric on each end, Press this fabric flat and · ~ fold 'the' end under about \'4 mch .. ·
• .
+

·

2

~~A!I

d . t11-e' cor' 'into two pieces; 9'2j'CIIII piece o'f cord shou~d _'18 31 or ,4 inches : See, th'9'S'€ 'things are' easv,
:-ut

-C

: 41. Decide where vou want tOI place • . : the' straps on the bcdv of the bagrernsrnber the lh,-in,ch seam alillowance alonq the top of the bag[,. Pin in place on your ih.an[db',8[gend .... . stitch as shown [(filigure'15).,
;
=

., .' "

shorter than the length of the' strap.

N,QW

here are some 'ways

vou

· ·

can customize 'your bSlg to suit

'You r Ifestvle ..

Maybe 'ylolu're the orqanized 'typ'8' who ne's'dls 19verythlnlg in its elace. If SIO~ youl'~11 robably want to add some pockets tO vour p'U-S[9. Perhaps vou want to p :; add some IgrlQlmm[lsts IOIr a flep tOI keep your handbaq closed lHerre are some ideas for the little options that 1r9',ally make life worth ~ivl~nlg,.
I

,. , •, .

~ There ere two types oi patch pockets used in thiiis, book. lined and 1(lgU t9.SS • : what?} unlmed, There's also lSI thi~r,dfOJ slash pocket, when yOlu seriouslv want tOI stash th'~ngs aW,81y'.
I

'OCKET'
:: E,asy~ easy, sasv [Cut the pocket piece twice as iong as you want this 'finished '" ~' pocket to Ibe'~ pills the seam allowances. Fold the, pocket in h,alf~right sides • • • fac:~ing~ land stitch around the, [edg 8s leavinq an ope'nl~nlg In the bottom to turn • · • , · ,~ the, pocket (figure 16). Pull the pocket throuoh to the right side, press, and slip. ~
l i

.,

· · ·

'You Gain also use! two pieces of fabric: cut to the same measurements to make a lined pocket: mavbe vcu went 'the' inslde of vour pocket to' be lof contrast,ing material, f,a!rexample. IMake' it just as described in the, palragraplh on page, ,2 0..This construe1

,A,dd buttons"

zlppera, or
~ . 1~llI;jl

CI,BSPS
", ....
L'

'J' cl 0"eg vo U r- p'' ' urse
I.'
I"

'to

)~;!J

probably have to shorten a zipper to fit into a h,andblagl~
sized pocket.)

tion wou~dl be fun when you want tlO

halve a contrasting pocket vilsible on the outside of the handbag and not bidden awa.y in the, lin~;n,g.
_"ILINED

'OC>-T

Just: as B1clSY, asv, easv Cut ,91 piece e ot fabric tO t.h,s desired size of your poe IIL·ct p Ius sea rr ~~IO'-"W' . ~In iF',9S a-"'IIn tbe u ~~ "",'U .... "'-.
I

Afte r 'YOU fVIS insta ~,ed, zipps ri, the fold the pocket, riglht sides toqether, end stitch together the raw edges (f~g:ur,e ~19)" These nifty pockets work equallv well on tbs outside of al purse or ~nthe nnin,g., 'OkaIY, vee've aoded ,e detail for tbe orderly folks. Hlow aoout one for · : the insecure among' us?

I~- - d._._ ..- t' l!....,.in· th froug ah-" the b··,a'g~1111k .II --. II len .r
I.,

construction process to decide when you nsec to add a CI,BSIP or
,8

~

.. , ,I!\.IQ

'j'

.

I,

_-

,

,

.

'Q'.'

,

i'1IJ"W'

.. I!I

buttonhole" You don't want to stitch 'your fllap in place before workilngl that buttonhole, or add;in,g that

side and an extra inch alt. the top. Mlalke a narrow hsm alongl the top edqe and fold it over to the outside at the 11-inch mark. Stitch 8110ngl the e,dge's of the fold flo~lo'w'ingl the' searnline (figuF'B 17').,'Turn the top to . lui :~ the in. d .. y: lciJ I.:.:_ turn . ,,'und er the.,' side," s: side and . I . ',.,Iv.· Ill. ':".:._.,1. " :-~' Bind bottom. Press. Then stitch it tOI y'our purse or YOLJr nninlg.

c~alsp~
An,o,ther
word to the wise.

Add a Flap
,A fta IP ~I:S ,a quick and ea s:y adldlit~ion 'to · your bc'Q,whether it's for work I~,to acd ,8 closure SLJchas a rnaqnetic • ~ clasp) or for play Ot just sits there , · and Illo,~)ks cool).
ActuaHy, 'you make a filiap ~in 'v~irtu,allY' · the St3lmll€ 'way you do the Lined . Pocket (either version, come- to think

This, is like a welted pocket without the darn welts (but with a zipper),

: of it). The sliglht cifference is that vou
~ stitch IOlnly the side seams and leave

Cut a piece' of fa brio that is 1 inch wider then veu want the pocket and 1 inch lonqer 'than twice the pocket's Ills'n'gth" M,ark with a ~~ne the place' on the riglht side' of the fabric where vou want the ope'ningl ot the pocket (thils is thiS slashl.
Center the pocket piece along this narrow r'9ctangll,9 arou nd the' Ii ne, Then, ca rlefUl~ cut Ily llns. Stitch
,8

~ the bottom completely open to. turn ~ the flap", You add' thiS flap to the bag ~ befolre yo,u line it. alligln'ing the raw ,sd'gles of the flap with the top of the bagl I(fiiigulre, '2 0,),. S,C wh'i~e we're
1

8'1 it."..,
LT.··· ' '. t I .',. ", "d" I,~eep ,._,.'ose._
IC'" ", I

all()rlQ the slash ~iiin,esnd e~ip to the corn ers (f 9 ure 118),T LJ rn 'the, pocket to the wrong sioe of: the fabric, Press.
piece throuqh the' slash

+

[lin addition to the fa ithfu IIIzipper 'ht,OIU can ft q uestion its lova Illty)l, th e're ,8J re

. ~

Add ,azipper ~nthe' slash exactlv as described on pape 18. (You~'11

also m,cw'gnetii(:clasps, buttons, : snaps, frons Oo,op,fasteners made · • of: fablr~cor Coord), and ties. Options. abound 'for kee'pl~ng 'Your purse · closed. 'When you're planninq a

"

.

: AddPiping or Cording
• ,

IF~gulre ,2J

; Piping or cordinq (Iolne's just skinnier , : tha n the other) is a detail that ca n ~ ~ add a lot of defini ion to your ha_ d... • .,:18Ig,. OIU can buy purchased ~ pip'inlg • • , lor make your own. liin either case, ~t , should be! pinned and lbasted a!olng • ~ ~ ~ ~ the seamline of ylour [bag with ylour • zipper float before you line or face' • • the piece that tbe pi~p'ingwilli deco• , .., rate (flij'glUre 2,1). Stitch the seam with • , · YOUir zipper foot too, · ,
"

~ Maybe just for' he heck of it,~you want to create panels in ylolUIr baq,
n

,

· Simplly civide your pattern in o pisces · as you wish I(fiil,gure, 24); a copy

,

, , , ,

, , ,
0,

,

,

,

'" ,

machine is helpful in this process so you can duplicate vour ori'g~'nal pattern for use with each prolect, Remember to edd a seem eltowence to' lea chi ne'w piece you · : mske. Stitch tbe panels together , be ~ you construct the' baq, olre

~

IFilgure 2,3

; : • , :; ~ .' :, • ~ •

:

"

, , , ,

Make, your own pilping by first CL ttiiinig bias strips from he stretchy diaqonel gr.ain ot YOUlr fabric ('figur1e 22). Then encase the cording in this bias strips, stitchinq close to the cordingl w'i1ththe zipper foot (f~gllre, 23). Then, just add the plilping tO your bagl las 'Instructed above
I

. or
A grom:mlst is just a big evelet, you know Follow the manufacturer's
'
:

instructions to install these won-

• ,
"

·

r

drous Igi::zmos that sllow vou to attach thinas to or ,dan'gha things from your hanobaq. ¥o,u'll need slev', eral ~,ayers fabric between tbe ot halves of the grommet SOt lit will

~ install

ano

function properlv, just as

this inatruction sheet will tell you.

B'ellileve it.

I

There ere some accessories that have, been developed specificellv or purses and you: just rnlqht want to incorporate some of these rtems into y'our happenin' han,dba,g .. lf vou have a welill stocked craft store in your neiqhborhcod, it will probsblv have,a section for handbaq crafting where 'you can examine many of these things. S,uM the, net for supp~lierstoo.
Hili _dles~Although the basic pattern instructions for Hlp H,B'ndba,g,s

tell you how to make vour OIWIn straps, from fabric, 'you can certainly add purchased handles to perfect the look you're after. 'Youll~be amazed a, the varilety' of handles avalable. in every size. shape, ,and color of the r,8Ii'nbow. There are beaded handles and hanoles 'you

· can decorate 'with beads. There's ~ purst chain. The' e' are aervlic and bamboo handles, Andl on and on. : Depending 011 the design of the ~ handles, they can be added in a : variety of ways: inserted through a : fabric casing, at ached by ahin : fabric loop, or secured with purse · hooks. Read about these thingama; jigs next. : ; ~ Hoo',s,. Attach straps or handles or ~ whatever you want wi~h some spe: cialized hooks, Some have bars that : SC:r 8W in. while others swivel: · ; some are quite lovely, actuallv. ~ MOist [of these hooks are manufao~ tured in various colors of metal, ; such as nickel or bronze, Look at : ,81 few of them on paige '19.
• _ III

~ ~

· ~ P1ulrse feet., Ye!s, vou can get little : studs tor the! bottom ot 'your baq.
· ·

:'

urse fll'a ..es. Iller,s is an aston-

~ : ~ ;

ishinq array of frames available with which you can build your bag in any style, from prim and proper Victorian to g,et-Qutta-my-face

; oolished metal. None of the pat: terns in this book are designed to

: use frames, but they may interest • : ..•..... ..~ at' some point d unng your "O·U I ·
Y"

~ lengthy handbag-making career.
: · ~ ~ : · · : :
· •

r

~

·
• • ,

· IClaslP's~ Mlagnetiie: purse clasps •

~

· · • • · • · ·
· •

· • ·

.'·

; work fantasticallv and are verv easv ~ to install. There are more sophisti: cared clasps evailable. tOOI,~, that : close and! loc k, . · •
· · · • · · · ·

· · ·

~.

.. '

···e ... ········a····:··!·
.

. ,:,'

I . :',:

_,:

•. ,· , •

· .· . ·

ow for this prettv stuff. In addition to this ernbelllshment techniques y,olujll~ see
in the handmade

:

111'

makes sense to hide vour work
[01

for

number of rS'8S 0ns, the most
I

: ''". ~ , : • '· . , · · ·
! ,.
~ ·

han,dlbalQ -roj'ec:ts " examples ot how pI1a!:n b'ag and turn quite spectacular, were a couple of

there are ailiso '15 'you can adorn a it into somethlnq (ln fact, there bagl,s-aGtuaIIIIIYr
are this basis

sensible 1[1 guelss 'we should be sen;, sible [every' now and the'lfI) lbein[g the Illa,ck of threads or knots' het snaq a!nd plu~1aViary time you r'8[81 ch i'ns,ild 8 your purse, Yblur work is more stable when . it's p' otected b th'e' I~'n·ng " L .5 <:Ir,l,l",l ,ll;.:~~:y .. mldl~.
I l

differe!nt colors~th.at

Here a e SOlml 9 materials and techniques that vou can use to create visua I inte rest ~;n your Ibagl~
1

'S-" h on -b :1 d S i,:' nter ae for some f I,ClSh~ -~
1 ':

- --

'-

; · ~ , ,~ ~ • · · · · · •
• ,. ~ · ,. ~
~ ~

of several ,d~ffelrlent projects, just so vou can ,see:how rnanv olaces you cain take this decoration t:h~ng.)Like an appetizer, the embellished bags [alre presented on p[ages ,27~34; 'they should whist your appetite for th'8 projects that start on p,ag:e4,2~You

can of course. incorporate any ,of these ldeas into your handmade b,81[9" ~n fact, ;pl'lease' do.

accents. while seed pearls are quite :: elegant andi sophisticated, Many

· ·

Bealds~I~fvou want SOlml 9 extra g~itz; bead accents are perfect, Whi~IByou rnsv think of beads as [an sparkle" woad or bonia beads can add ethnic
1

~ beads cen Ibis stitched on with regu-

Many
,. ,.

of

these kinds of embellish-

rnents should be, done, to vour b"ag

techn itlq ues 'you ea uee for emlbe[l~ili's,lhmlent

Experimant with this varloi s rnaterials CI nd

~ pieces before 'you construct the handbeq, particularfv jf you 're dO'I~ng sornethinq like embroidery where ,. " vou Wiant t[OI conceal the
"

iar sharps [sind tnread, but y'IOIU may' have to use, 18 beading needle and ~ nvlon be',adl~ngthread! depen1ding on how te1eny your beads are
Butto- ",S[~ They're not all work and no pll,ay:,. ylOIU know. Thouqh the[y w~11 keep vour b[8 g closed quits' contented rYJ let: but ons h,aV'8 a ~ittle fun , as a decorative .BOClen ., Look tor
l

stitcninq under the!

lini'ng of vour 'bago --

retro [buttons, alnt~ilque mother-ofpearl buttons ... r even art-to-wear o • ; buttons made b,y enamelists or silversmiths. Use' just one gns[at button or a 'gr,o,uping.

poor ol' purses w'll

bel Ion sale whe .

you f~nd them, Trust me.l IBut yourlll slso lea n how 1'01 make handm,a,d,e bags from scratch, IUsingl basic sewing skiiil s and simple patternsanld have fun domng iiit. [promise. There are salven basic balg patterns that each provide ,8 b,ll,snkcanvas for
your personal expression" and their constn .c io " is ,easy en,oulQ,- that

~ : · : • · ·

.-

: it):' The mos important

..

. ; Let me say this again (and I mean
IC'OlnsidI8IrS-

tion 'when vou'ra cre'at]ng a handmade balg is to e·njloy vourselfl Speno SIQ,me time shopping for the,

:

· ·

you clan let ,a luxurious silk duploni air ,81 w'Bclky poodle print be the focus '0 r 'your work, If that's, not
e- ,ough" add
81

pocket air an unex-

~

pected closure such as a pair of choosticks Us.la severa fabrics for inse s, or BI contrastinq fabric linlig~ Zi : your bac closed or a[pp~ly' a vintaqe button and handmade loop. use coucbinq, ribbon ernbroiderv, or IQlrommets to add ~ntrliQuing flourishes, A -,umber of creative desi'gne'rs have taken these seven patterns, lncorporeted some, optionel details. and whipped up more than two dozen d,eiectable hancbaqs that are yours for th,e tastlIJng. A g,a~ilery of: work from established handbaq makers provides a jolt 'Olf inspii 'ation (sort of like a douote espresso in thle atternoonl,

~

~

,

~

perfect materlal=tt's 8:BJsy' tOI glet carried ,Bwa'v just thinking abou the possibilities. Touch each piece of fabnc and im,aginl€;,l how it wi~11111 feel ,snug uader your arm, ,again,st vour shou Idle rr IO,f clutched in ylour fi'ngertips. Studv its des,ign and visuallze it on y'OlJf bal'g .. Don't despair i1f you ab,so/utely m us t neve a piece of snk that costs Im'Of18 per yard 'than YOIUF monthly cable bnl·-the great thin'g sbout Iml,BlkJiing handbaqs is that they' = don't reqeire much y,ardalge., IOn t e ' other hand, don", feel the least embarrassed '~fvou've found the pertect piece 10' ~ upholstery jacquard at the bottom ,of a remnant b in and you paid next to nothin'g fo,r it. T is book is totallll~IVabout vou and vour ~ style, Cel ebrate i't! ·
I_'_

~ Feathers or faux fur? Rhinestones ~ ~ or oea ,~s? Wal,shers or Igrommllets? Can't decide? Welt Iml1911ketwo handbags. Or a dozen. Find a P,8Ittern you: like and tmproviso 'with it, :, creaf ng a slillirght~y differe,nt balg • · ~ each time, Because vou know this • ; 'is,true': Marilyn would insist that • : yOU! halve them. A~~ of hernl In vour .. own g~lofious wa'V, express vour sense of what is fash onabrs and hip by rnakinq vour own handbaqs.
1-

1-

,After you've ga,t the' materiel in 'your hot: little hands, kick b,BIC:k and consider the embellishments. YOlu"11 learn how to create' interesting details 'with sewllng options as well SIS how' to add darlin'g 111~ittlle beautifii cations to your bag.

~ ~

·

~

· • ·

7

I.

1irimls,~, Shop for trirn=cordinq, piplilng ribbon, frinlge lace, braid, tassels-eln both this galrment and decorator sections oi the fabric store, You can make vour own fallbdie trim with 9, bias tape rnaker; and boy is it fun. There' are some spectacular trims availll,9Ibllll,e, embroidered an,d beaded by hand, that rnav be more '9!X pe nsive than th 9' fa bri c vou' ~~ [buy! But 01 little funky Ilims'-g1r,ee,n rickrack rnev [be just the thinlg for )'iour blagl~
j,

J

decorative=rneke a swilrll of: eyelets olr ,8 swoosh of gromim'8,ts.---snd instalilling them ~ISvery easv The pliers are' psrticulertv s~imp,le' 1. 0 use;: just PfSI(:tiC'8 ,81 time or two to get the lrigh't amount of: pressure.
1

1

~ ,. ~ ~ ,. ~ '. : .. :
m

..
'"
rii

Jew'8,lrY'i Just like Romeo and Juliet, handbagls anc jewelrv h,8lV9' ,a1 re,alll attraction to one' another, Add a bracelet ,SIS ,ewrist strap, a

..• '...
I.
I•

.· .
I!!

I. I.
"

'.
I.

·

necklace as a fashionable handle, or an old brooch as fOCB~ piece. ,Si_It flow'le -~S"I Absolutelv. needs to be, said, No morel

..·
'I

'.
I. I.

· ·

Nlov'lelt,y' y'arns,~ ~'w 'you have a IglQlodl knittinq shop n'8arb{y~ pay' it a visit. The over-the-top pcpularitv of knittingl hag, led to some dynamite materials on the market, from cotton cord tiC varioqatsd si Ik., ,S,eqluins,~ For true dezzle, edd a sequin (or a couple hundred). And they're not just: tiny' and round ,a: vrnore=-th ely re sq usre, lobllll,otngl," n burstinc with color, end ,b';g'~ Shop for sp'9ci,allty sequins on the
I'

',.

·
I.

'I..

rn--h _ ;es ~eClnlq
,!Ii' - _-

I.

'"

• • •

L

-

'· .
I. I• .

· ·
-

'•.
,"

There are some decoretve tech=
rnques vou cain US'S to adorn your handbaqs too=some

''.. '.

that 'you create with 'your sewinq machine.

': Add leIV'lel€ts or glrommets in : the bUnk of an IB"V'6t
I.

'.

• • •

I. ,• .

· • ·
• • •

Internet, Tulh!l~Tulie is not just for tutus.
[11'f

you want ShIB'BIF drama. aod some tulle, as a t:OIP ~laIY'8ron y'IOIIlJ r be gl~, or make trim from lenqths ot it" Tulle's cousin, nettinq, has a ~Ialrlge'r eave. w
EY'I!'-,ets, allnltd g~Dmmletsl~I Like,

buttons, gromlmllets and evelets can b 8 'V8 1ry fu neti onal but the"v ~'i to ke have, fun too, They can be tlolta~h/'
1

i'

,A,p,pll'iilqlue. The art of alpp,lyinlg Im118i19rial to, the, surface of fabric is used freouentlv in this book. Because it's ideal, of course, Appliqusd embellishrnents don't have, to be stitched on, ailithioluigh you can rea III plav Illy' with sewing tbread, silk dbboln~ or ernbroiderv floss to add decorative elements, Heck, just use some glue '~f'you 'W',8Int. A,nd: YO'LJr details don't have to be made from fabric how about laminated paper or wire mesh?

'•, .

I

· · · · · · • • · •
, • •

I



i

'.
I

· , · · • • · • · • · • · · · •
I
I

· ,AII'III1j'q uIi does n~'thave to be • • · stitched. these p~alyfu'lelements · re In -I u~ d~- "I n~"1-1 ~ •

I

,§ ·1UIl ~ IW'

~

'. __v·,

-

[trJ.

IU~~IIJ

iii"',~

EI- b roidler '~The art of ornsrnenta nee,d~I,e'w,ork is also idlea~ for deco;:;

: Q,un.'ingl~, Here's the first of several effects 'you can create at 'your ; sewllngi machine, Simple machine " • quilting can add dimension to 'your • handbaq, not to' mention a little fluffiness. too. It's fun to foi~ow the : ~I~ine'.s stitch in'g Din you r faerie's of • ; desion motits ,as vou cuilt, S~mlp~y · ~
" "

rat~ng a bandbaq. Did! you know

F re nch knots

that you could embroider wiiith raffia? Or silk ribbon? Experiment wrth various media; have a serec: tion of needles with large, eyes on hand. Computerized sewing mac ines slso em oroider (and if: Y()U have one, Ifrn jea lou S). Th is is, not your gr 8Ind'mother;s ernbroiderv, dear, A f'6'W basic stitches are shown at. the 118ft.
I

" "

"

+

"

1

: desired on your machine, USia a

CDu'chllng~ Couchinq feels like s.omething between applique and ernbroiderv, th,o,ugh technicallv it is, chinq : 'an e'm-" ,I: I_V 'f" Cill _ !: " - -,broider te -lll...n"lqlllle C: '0 U::" ~l:c.;
U ,". ",'

complementary

or contrastinq

hread, depending on how 29JrlV

vou're feelinq, IR,uifflll'8,S ',-'n,d p-eats, These con-

• ,
" "

"

,
" •

securinq the deccrative elements

in place with stitches. -,

a series

of

Simla 1111

try iii I ~,e's pleats, or add 0:needlework to lend ptzzszz 'flo VOIU' hanldbagl~

pll~av'w'wth rnachlne qUliiltiing~

These stitches can be ,as ~,a~id-back. or ,81S in-vour-face as you want, You can elso couch by machine, dance. Sirnplv make folds in your using a zigl2ag stitct and' the, wiz ... :fab'fic and stitch them down when ardrv of invisibls thread, 0 r Idon"t~u.sle requlsr thread if you -d rather the zigzag TDIPst~t'c;hlliingand edge,ati' c hl'Ingl. ~ Whlll~letopstitchinq G8n be functionstitch in9 , : at he~lpling to hold ,a Iliiining in place, be visible.
"

struction details add stvle. A, simple ruffle is. just gathers,d and stltched into place. Fin~sh the 9[dge.s of the ruffle i~fyou want .. .or don't, No rul!18Shere, Pteats can reai!y ernphasize the glory ot your fabric because ylOIU gis" to marvel at it in a_urn-

"

, "

Snazzy sew'~ngl machines have s pe c ial plre.s.se,r feet

" ~

speaking, topstitehinq is a line of'
; stitchinq done on 'the right side 1011 ~ the fabric. p,8lrallel tal an edqe or,: seam, Edg,estitC'ihin'g is
.
j'

that allllllo'w you to couch with decorative stitches, even adld~ng strinqs ot
pearts, Or
SiQ

tops ,i'tchrnngl

done just at this finished edqs.

: about ,as close as
"

vou

can IQet to ,it.

l've

~ 'fopstitoh inlg 'with a co ntra sti n 19

belen told,

~ thread creates vi.suaI pizzazz.
" " "

~
"

"

26

· .,
• ,
'" ~ ~ ,

~ • ~ ~ ~

· · • ~

,-.·e....isne •• ·., Emb 1-1--h d Bags
1

lckle yourself pink 'Nit bri I ian .eathers j'u·.ting~,off an otl erI

'MS'B

from JllJ. "

.JlJJL

unadorned bag"" U'SI' fe'a·tb,er and crimp beads available 'a:" "" ,~rcl'~ II~ "-" ,iiflJ'rlB" ". 'O-"'U don' 'lL.i. ke"," ~h-"'-o"'O"I-lIO'I,Ifl" 1;,,'''iI1I1I'f~,OQ'h ·s···· ··,·"··1 .. ll. U ,
c
.

"bt' . '.

CI .'U\lli.

Ell

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UJIL

ILl,.

·yIU-il.

,", I

I

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..

••···.··),1·.·

.

.

",

~",

ow about a quick break to ooh end aah over these,

'trim the quill and then peelaway the extra fluE!., VVb.·n 31'u're h,aplply wi .h the w,~ you. .1,eathersl,oo[{'1 'take an upholsten needle and drive It t noug 'from the ex erio 0" • h '.pu rse, whe ile,'e 0 'wan 'to' place the .f'B'atb,r~ Push he needle until Its ..ye is, een ered in the fabri.lc " an .. leave it there, S']~ldlea erimp bead onto a quill, and wo 'king"rom the lext rior 0;1 the purse, PL1Sb thi quill through the n eedle's eye and into the 'i - terior of it- 'Ie' urse, Gently, remove p
~I

h"il

h"i'

'i

1

dlivfn'8 e,mbel~llliJslhed b,ag.s?'Hernernber that 'you can use' thS!S'B techniques iinyour handmade Ibags too. Havel all 'the' 'fun y'OLJ can possiolv have with this bookl Let th,e inspiration begin.

the upho sten needl .by pushing
'"I, .'11_ I ~:li~'U,!~'·. ]: 0 it thr --g-h

the int II "0-- of . 'Id' ..':: - 'r
I~'

t

e purse, Cr-I .... f e exterl ... p

lor' bead fn-st

:b_ n "Uti~

inte rior bead, using ~JH,-

ers to secure bo 1) t- Ie· beads :SDU,g .~,., agains _eaeh ". de i
0,-.1.

Emb~U\hed ~M
N'L'tha&e Mb.mu

he fabne,

· • · • • '· . '•· .
" "

,. ,.

'.
,

"hi ~",'0 -, Itn
,"ewers and

0

1

playful s -F

::It

_

1

re ta
'.'

'gile" and then
'..

pla ,
when

around
1
,

In h ''''''II~ " ,ID'"
I'
I, •

r.

' .. __

ddoJlJ1£!d b21 ~wart MlcBlm.de

a
II,ID"g 1"

I'

d ': f\:"': It,,' ~
I.

nlnat d gi' ,'_ pla I': t plae with tape and ",-",
'I

tem-

2'

Iraid

10':'

embroidery? Don't b_~

broad chain stitch is cu-ehain-tingl

OJ

into sewing today? Have ,31 little fun with

·dJ··- be your guide in curving" t ere is _10 It, Yo,u need only an embroide
.
'.'

need e. a pair yam, perle
1

(1,1' SCiS:Sf)f'S"

and somcthlng to stitch with:

"~Ol

to ."raffia, or good. quality faux 'f',a:ffia ribbon,

IOh:! And lof course :l'olu need th.. Iorlor at

bag; desperate for

J,U~"~, U
~''Ii

t'

;!liJl'

to run more ham others, for sonu odd reason", This purse e m witl a fabrle-co "Jere".ml 'rOl~inside that
,ria] ru.n.,.

ig~r 'b 'x plU]~SeS,eertainlv pia',_' 'lob hlp "'S, ~ 1 I 'Jle, P' Cit till', ~ fee t 0~111, II~ u it," t, " xpl ~
'i

,I

I ~[",

~I

~

I

I~

-

'Jrl,

w' Ir ~ : iome

I' ~.. {Or

if

""'IOU 're
~I,
I,

hal d '~ ~h to ~ __ 11
f
0

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t ' '. I 'IUr'
-c-

'wn

le:)r" -' leL ehm " silk flowers

!'

m omplementaI"

ih ,dl', ' " alITl i
','or",').

hen': It ~ingdo' I:, drill :,~_i' r ::~ d 'li\' ood ,"l e) '" he 1:.' Y',mr imaginatton ru l\ ~d with PI', int. pa sr b ":ids, g" ld 11:-' f ofl hateve els s t -ike S, you fan ',:.' _ :0, ' ~"lIJ ' rll 'lA d
i

I

J

I

'l

i

lower', at rang= the 1)1" als 011 tl and 11 '," )wa,~, u ma
"hi,' flower ,,~, 'Irs,' ~' lth , i'u1d or I" wn-on bee "

Then glue the st lck onto the t roo eh pin, 'in the bro oeh her ,r r 'OO]~ and hang i -, hen
I

, ,-; j'"'"

,e ,',ar ~,' for
J

t)~III!I,.,.(.C£a

n!l'J,r,,.,.Jt.l'1

1,"_ ','

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r~,11'!i'n' M~~cB:
I~

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,:

30

erhaps you've, been holding 0;11 to an old belt that j ',8, doesr ,- seem to, gOI with anything t anymore, yet JfO'U can't part wi h it, on't WO' ~r~ ~you~r' purs , might l'OVIB :It'_. Position ttl,' belt around th - middle
'0 111i,d!d.]

»ot-the ... road handbr g

the bag IC" refully measure tOI place three groupinga of four 'yelet hole ,8 around the bag (two grouplngs in .he front '0'" the 'bag:: nd 'OD,e' o t11u8' back). Use a craf knife to mark Xs where the ,:,,-eeiI' '_s. will b,-cplaced, Be ' mre to 'put a cutting mat or
10"'
I,

cardboard inside -h,_ PU'I}'S _

SOi

y'ou

Id,'OI1'~t,'.w

through

11"

other side ol ,.me bag. ,,-~ 'the eyelets and then use dd m ,81'tchin ..-'l: It ,I:r t" l' e through them to form a.ca mal , ielt ' 00 .,,~ ou flnallv do decide to, get rid 0 i that belt, If ,3 [OU can always ':p'I~'UC ' up the purse with a taneier one, ' Or maybe lVi[,h IR ball' Ianna, Or a scarf, Or a chain or a group 0['" 11(t ' r aees, Ion ,g.- the pie ure,
J'

1:0 ~,you Take a plain brown purse land,jazz m' up with 80m " funky appliq ue. All, It t akes ]S' 'V'al~,)'"Mt_g' shades 0[':' Iaux leat aer (or a, .,_, other i'te -il1esting In'sterial), some pinldng shears, and ,a little epoxy Use the pinking shea ~'S ' '0 cut di fferent-sized shapes Irom the f,aJLX leather G ue hem on top of 10 e another, a [d,then glue them onto :yo[ur bag, :·~ay·with you ~'arrangement before '
yO[I~ c

':m'lnit to the glU"9 and allow for plen,. of rb~,,'.~' 'g time,

iert paisley pa

P I, . ~ ]
I

tern will perk up an; ...). t 'I pu "'" "" (':I' .'.". hat .. re tim h :_.I ~ ,n piel
--,'---'

I.·

rll

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ere's wh,ers' I alwevs .starrt-choos~ng an ebsolutely arnazinc material that 'will be the foundation for Imy handbaq, When I find, it, IIIknow I~t ith absolute' certainty. It almost w cans my nsme. You've IgIO:t 'to be excited about how your b,a9w~JI look and feel cO conjure up th'9 creative maglic to make it~sal plan to spend some time pickinq 'OIUt. the materials and, embellisbments th a~ ,-0' 'ILJ ~ II U'!Pf:) A~ fter Q c a Ik ab '0'-' u't=
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Many garmle'nt fabrics are cornple -elly suitable 'lor hendbaqs. This collection of: swatches contains both natural and svnthetle fibers. Clockwise from top' left: pOlllve:s1Ie'r/ray'oln blend, silk ta eta; swl~lk with noveltv fibers: v:intag1e sl lk; svn hetiic 'tla-ff'eta; lin en; eotto n ve ~'Vle,t;polye,stle'r taffle't,iJ; an dI i' nth e c,e'nte Ii", si Ik 01rg a Inza.
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material, you need to know a little something about constructioq
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~Choose Your Fabric
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_, _ '- _ __ _ !I~ I 'ba-'g'-'I I"n"c-'Iud'l"ng some II...:...: L tech '~ basic I I "

as some arnuslnq options, and of course 'we';'~11chat about this ever-so ... important adornments that complete you r b,agl. I~" !II toss in a bit about the tools and materials that make for happy sewingl and we're readv tc reach hand;b,ag nirvana=the projec .s. Center vourself and let's gllst going,.
niques as
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~ 'The skv's almost the lim'!'! with fabric, In some waysr it's difficult t'OI giv,e : advice about fabric: because you're' an independent glal who knows her : own mind. Love natural fibers? U1se cotton lor silk, Don' mind a little ~ '" polyester? Then maybe vou' IIII ant to use, a vintaqe 1970's, necktie fabric. w · · • • Think about the qualities y"ou adore in fabric and keep those in mind whil 8 you're looking. You shou.c be sure it's exactly what yOU! want end need,
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Here's how to start thinkino about fabric: Consder how you'll be usiiingi

your hlandb,agl. Is it. an 9,v'enin'g b'agr that may h'o,ld,onlv ,a credit card or Bi roll of mints? T'hen a slinkv charmeuse w:~il~I,do~ is it a balg for evervdav air that needs 10 be durable e,n,ough to wiithstand the riqors ot real Infer Iike · : riding 'the subway'? IMaybe a rugg!ed upholstery fabric 'is, the, best cholce, : Each type, of materiel has speciel ettributes+end maybe' a few tinv
• " • • " •
"

Okav, the fun 'is just about to start. IBut first let's review 'the, tools and materials vou'll need. And let's talk about sewinq for just ,aminute.Then on
to the hip projects!

· , To, make handmade' baqs, vou need a sewinlg machine, IQ!f course, and all of the' tools and materials that any' sewer has on hand=pins, needles thread, marking tools, scissors. p~inkingshears, tapis me,81SU' 6 :9" and the like. FIOf either handmade or embellished purchased baqs, you'll like y wan, a wide arrav of decoratrve treatments such as beads, sequins, and novelty trims"
1

· · Pins and needles. 'This is how ·

vou

· felel~when you're ready to cut out · your first ba.lg. Ki,ddinlg. Regutalr pins are essential to piece your b,ag toqether: 'the' newer end sharper, the better, S~llilkpina+lonue and thinner than dressmaker's pins=should be, used on Iliiight- 10 medium-weight fabrics,
dressmaker's ~ You'f probably 'find an assortment

Slew'inl'g machine. To make the handbeqs in this book, vou don't need' a special machine or attachments: ebout allIIthe machine needs to do is, stitch forward; reverse, and :zi'gz:ag. We'II,~you might make ,81 few buttonholes. 'to 0,1 corns to think of it. Makle sure, vou haven't los vour zipper toot. b€ICa.USi8 you rnav need tha " Before you Ib'egin se w"h1QI in earnest, check the thread tension u,s~ngl PI1IB'ceot the fabric you'll be' using, for 'lour blag. a
l

Oi course, vou can't sew without Igood" sharp needies on vou machine, Have ,81 ranqe of sizes available and rememoer to change them often,
EverY' urne you hit BI pin, y',ou~II[11 need a nsw needle, Doggone it. Thlread,~ Gotta

of craft needlles help ul, depsndinq on the kind of em[ble~I~~.shme'nt
you're inspired to create. A varietv

~ of ernbroiderv need es will probablv · do the trick, For hand ,sew'ing 'with relQular thread, have several sizes of sharps on hand.

,

have it, Match it to

vour fabric or choose a color that contrasts if that's the' look vou're after, Cottonwrapped poillye.ster should work just fine for yourr bandbaqs. lnvlsible thread=nvlon rnonof i181 mlent-,is, wonderfu ~ tor attachinq adornmerrts, because it's so vlsry invislble ot c "'O,IU rs' e~ ~o·U a"n l , also use it in vour sewinlg machine i you
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want tIO.,

M:alrlcing tools. You won;'! [be doing

Bias 'tape malk:~,~~A wonderful
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alnd i'ro ig

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much these patterns but vou wi~1prcbablv use, 01 water-soluble mark~ng plan or dressmaker's pene'iil et some point, Check the dissppearab,;lility Ino, it's probablv not a real 'word) ot the marking: pens on a scrap of your fabric, i beg vou,
Tur,n~lng t,·ols~ There are some liitt~'e tools that can r,eal[ly helo when vou're ma,k.inga handbag~ and one of thesn is a pointer and creaser, also called a point turner. The, tip, of this wood or

1'l1,ar[king for

~ g'adget
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that ets

V'OU make your

~

: own bias tape,
· ·
,

· times ditficult 10 press after eve,ry

~

~ use you rs tess 'than I[use mine', lt's · ; such an indispensable too~ that 'I

,

~ step while handbag' sewing~ do this : best you can. lrnportant; Test every • fabric with the "ron ','efore vou use • · 'iit on your acn.al halndbag,~ 1€,spe!cial[ly
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Imlsta ke i

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aJ nd

d isaster,

· · · unsure of its fiber content. Some ·
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[F'alblric scj'S&JO'~ 5,. A glood sharp psir of

plastic tool pokes out th,e an'gles of any piece that needs, it such 8S the' comer ot a square flap, 'Whe'n vou're shoppinq, Y'OIU 'maly find this tool in the quUting section. You may also want ,al bodkin or a loop tu mer 'to turn a bias strip or strap inside out. Mly loop turner and [IIa re not on 'very' glood terms, but rnavbe V'O'U have a better relationship w'ith vours,
[M,e il5Ullr'ingtools. l've found that I
1

maybe you'll want sorne piiinking shears, too. Embroidery scissors are n:,o€ to have, for more detailed work,
Clean ne'W:I;p,~ o~-:s,imlr ar paper", lnt ~ , · : ·
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~ pres: sed. • ,c:'_ ~ :_: • · If you re,aUy get into making hand~ baqs, there a:r,e some specialized : pressinq ads that tailors use that w'il[1 •
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shine when

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· •· • · •
,

To m ke your patterns from the glrids mcluoed in this, book you need some ':ni'n pepsr, Whj[I[,e there ar,e some f,airly IOlng pieces used 'in the book ([Ithink the [~alrlglestis ebout 31 inches ![ongIL you can alwavs tape' smaller pieces of paper toqether
=

· help 'you reach into the tight spaces · · and curved areas of ,8 handbag, ~ * · Press,llin'g harns, pr'9ss]ng mitts, and .' · ~ seam rolls wil[1 make it easier to, • press y. O'"IUi'" b"B'g'l
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· D, ,cO'~' i, e ,i< rle -i'll: :, Welt I'm · · go'iing to leave this up tOI you • · y,QUIF ever-present muse). The' · ,(,c31nd · · materiels used as ernbellishrnents · • • · • in th ·15-<' b o '0' k' ·lln~' c 1111d- e:--' 'e'm~ ro "Id- e ry',' ,-_I,_, b
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use 'my hem gaulge an awful lot in mlak~ingihandbags because of the, scale of the projects, Have, a tape measure and a ruler on hand too

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· this patterns. · • · , · Craft scissors,!! Do not USB, 'your • fabric scissors on paper. Verboten! · : Use these instead, ~ ·
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· · • · · ·
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floss, fabric swatches. raffia. tulle, . II' s h8_ S, Jewe [~ f "ceatI th_Ier,~--,bsa d5,lim.,_ ~' ry,j' S,I' . =-:--II~ .. tr buttons, sequins, rickrack, riobon, artiiflllf;i,a~1flowers. decorative pa pars, wire .. .csleorate the possbilitles.
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l'd feel better '~f w'e can review somis basic sewinq terms so we're Bill on the

same paqe 1(llitierall'y~I),Somewhere unooubtedlv be instructed
to

along, the' 'w',aIY to hSlndlb'ag nirvana, yOlu~111

do

80'lmB'

of these 'th~ng',s.

B,lIste~ Use ,81 line of I,ong stitches to holdl pieces in place ternporarjlv

·

ICll'iip~Snip into this sa'am allowance; vou definitely 'want to cll~ip the inward ClUrV'8S of your b,agl.
IFaceii Finish a raw edqs or a hand-

~ : · ; ~ ; ~ ~ · ; · · • :
,

·

'ivot~ '10 turn the! fabric in another direction 'wh~llle,'you sew Lilift the presser foot, leavinq the needle in the down position, and pivot the fabric. Dependinq on vour fabric choice, it may' be helpfu tal clip the' corner of 'OliniS of 'the' pi'9C9'S to make the turn"v·' sie r Th~n 10"'",'w' ··'B·..",:_ ea ~' ,." u '~' 'v' .'~ v;~ ..',','_"·-r
I

· Triml~ lirimlm~'ng seams is .. · usually a good Idea to elilmin,8Jte .· . ~ bulk" You can also qrade 'the' seam : ellowances which is to trim one' ~ laver shorts r tha n the othe r.
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]b'ag piece with

,8

facing.,

'the' presser foot and continue,

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Fii'lngeir press, Somis sturdy uobolsterv fabrics don't press w8:11 dUB' t'o we~'lght or fiber content, And really, sometimes it's difficult to press a handbao because, of its inherent desiqn Fing,sr pressin'g 'lis useful here: use your fing,srs. to apply pressure to open a seam Of push a lining flat,

IP'rle,ss~Didl vou know there '~s ,e d'~fterence between pressinq and iron~ · inlg? When 'you Pf'€SS,~ you don't · ~ movie the iron across this fabric= that's, ironinq. To press means just that=pressinq the ~ronBIQainst 'the falorll,c. Generally, you should press each searn atter 'you sti'teh it.
Seam all[I['Dwal'ncel The amount

·

~

: seam that 'YOU cain push aqalnst tal · · turn the, strap inside out. YOIU can : use the pushing or puillii'ng 100 1that.
1

· · • ·

1iulrn, In this book. vou'll need to turn lots of straps through to. this riqht side. Dependinq on the material, tbis can be '9,OISY {s~~lk'} rot so or easy (upholsterv fabric). Th e stra ps

ot

Hem, In this book this terrr usual~ymeans finish this edgeJs~, s in a those ot a pocket, bv nerrowlv turn~ng~under the raw €d'ge's; cressina: turn~lngthe '9,dge under 8J1glain; pressinq: and 'then 8t~tch~'ngl.
I
10- " .

fabric between the cut edlge and
the searnfne,

· · · · · • · · · · · · • · · · · · · · • ·

SeNE:mS to, work for you-al bodkin. a loop turner, a chopstick, whatever.

W1hipsfirtClhili These are tiny hand stitches vou'Il US'8 to attech nningls; ~.. .' ·'v'y " te ch n !I;J,d III~.... spea k....nI,n t h stitc h-I'9'.' ' .-S' I. eppsar slanted.
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allowance: you definitelv want

to.

notch the outward curves o'i your b,agm

: 'TOIPstitchl~, Decorative (or function· · al) stitchino on '[hie, rilQlht side of · ,• IIj,lolur h'Qn'db'ag' l' u ,_ __ .: ~: · • • · · ·
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nstead of iiincluld~ng actual patterns i'n this book, w1e-'ve provide- _templates on a grild so you can make your own patterns at home', redluc.inlg Olr enllatrg~ ing them to 'your heart's content, The scale' we've used ~IS 1 square equals '" : 2 inches. S'~[mlpll'y create your own gri'd to these measurements and draw in : the pattern pieces O'IU-' patterns inctude. l~repeat include, this ~ seam ., • ~, sllowance. SIO' you don't haV 9 0 make addittonal a,dJustm,snts. After you've • ~ drawn the pieces on paper, using the grid sys .em, Gut them out with a pair of craft scissors.
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A template like this is, provide d to r a III the seve n basl c
patte rn s, Mielke V'Or WI r pstter n pieces from these grilds,; one square equa -I ,_', ,. h es. :S, 2 mer

pieces the same. Of math is not your thin'QI" here's how yo can cheat: · ., · M,81ke'your pattern pieces the siz1e we've usee in the book. Trim off the seam allowances. Then", fiddle W"i, h the pattern pieces at a copv machine; reducin,g oc enlarging each pattern piece the ssme percentsqe until you \1,9 : reecned the size y:olu want. Bemernber to add the 112 seam allowance to • · ,; the pieces after vouve sized thern.l
m

lf you want the b,ag smaller, reduce the size' of: the squares, but keep • ,: the p"rooo rtions (t-'h'e'" nurn .Ilh.e··' ot sq ua res in lea"ch piece) the sam W':8' nt ,· . ~ biQIIger7 Make the squares II,arg,e'lr~ aqein keep~inglthe proportions of the .. . .,
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You know when vou're instsllinq new software on your computer, there's alwsvs that annoiyin'g file that screams RIEAD ME? 'W'ell, there's one in this book, too .. I'm sorrv: I know vou're resov tal $'BW but here, are some testminute reminders that will make your hlp handbaq experience ,8 happy one.
1

fabric, Make sure' 'you have the nee- ~ dle size lright; the' nes,dle ought tOI ~ ..
be good and sharp, too. : ..
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IMake II praetiee "mistake."
materials don't
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you any

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and then have to r'~p'~tout, the n'elS-' dille holies rernain. Bummer. Leather, suede, and novelty nonwoven febrics (~~.k.e 'vinyl) faH into this category.

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,As,k.the 'good 'follks ant youlr fr:ablFic or clraits store for' ,adv'ice if vou're unfamiliar with the properties of the fabric that interests you., TeIIIII them I what vou're d,o,in'g~and ask lif thev have an'y .advic,€ about sewinq with the fabric Y'O'U'V8 chosen, Same applies for interfacinps. too. P r'BW,I:S- a '1111 f18 'b . t· 'at can h vour ones h be W·· -asheo
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Test aUIy'olur' new t)ec-Iniqule~s on a . scrap piece 0f" your fabr: b f ore raonc ne you commit to' incorporetinq it into,
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your handbag" 'rn tal~kjng about things like i'tnstaH~ng glromlmets and d rnaqnetic, C ~ BISpSas we I~as r eCOfS
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~ realize' I 've beer a little, Ibit of a .. a,1Iin this part of the book, ..• know-it ... .· . .. Why'? Welt it's not because .· . .. ~ .. l'm so sman--ft's because l've ~ .. already media a II1I these mistakes · .. .. I"ve' been w,arnin'g you about. l'rn .. ... .. • · just try~lng to save you a lot olf .. .. seam rippin'. dar'inq. ·
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Press' hie ,'allb,r'i,c before you cut out

tlve techniques such as, embroidery or quilt~·ng·Just maybe lit won't turn ..

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the, pieces

for Y"OLJr handbag.

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a-s vou
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check1\. it .. o.
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Clut a~~ the' p,iecJes on tne lenqth. . 1_ ·blll ",. W'IS8 grain if POI$SI.-.e'; crOI$SWIIISe' IS okay', too, i'f the' amount 'of 'your fsbric is lirnlted. lf you make your own piping, those pieces should be cut on the bias.

first. Please,
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. -V~'o-:-: I-u--r ~JD-II-m-",:,,-f:o'I-r1-:-.'. ~on"D-, · _. ~.. I·· . 1& ,
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if vou'd rather baste by hand tban
rather make your straps differently than what I SUglQlBst, feel fires" ,Ap'ply vour sk]IIII's to the, projects because, remember. it's aU about

..• ~ ..· . , .· .
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lest dlre,s5lmaker~s penlcils
lor marking plans on
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sc ap of

your fabric. Checlk. the tension oln your machine by uSliingl a swatch of: vour
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'ths' fun.
Reme,mber that the, seam

allowa nee is 1J2 inch tor aII
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the patterns,

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T··e SewlngKl ..
Here are' the baslc tools anc materials 'that we're gloingl to assume, you have, on hand t'CI make' a, hendbag" When y'OU: see "S,ewing [Kit." ~ isted 'in t he' instructions; these are the, thinqs we're 'tal~kingabout. You won't need alii of these supplies to, embellish a bag" but I suspect yOUlJI~ certainly need, a pair 'Of' scissors, .~

• That's the title of the b.8IQ" with

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catchv sentence or two about tt.
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s ~ ..I~.~"~ h~ u'!~~.nlg ~~~
,and.. dark . -liPI
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~~~ ~ t:o be buJ.lruM~edte~bul Utl~~'~ ~ ~tlk t~ aJld &Op,t~~w ~tsn. ~ IL~a~.~ lP~· total!~ G~ K~e~_nwWe ~~. ~

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this handbag?' lt might be S,li,ghtly E~e'gBint 'Totally Eleqant, Somewhat Funky{ Absolutelv IFunk,Y,
or Somewhere/ . ~n Between :' ~ v'. _.,_·~v , .. . . • .• . , . .
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• BAG IPATT'EIRN, C:lle8lnlnewsp .lint or' .,imilalr pap.'r -.l.. f or mlal1llln~ .P. ·I.,il!I!'rnS .n .......... r... .. . .. iJ,!! --.• .
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AI! of the' projects ana:based on one of th,s seven basic patterns presented ~nthe' book and this handmade handbaq projects are' organ~,z,ed these patterns. Just in case vou're thumbing throuoh bv
the book and don't know which section vou'vs wandered into, here's

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Ilro," an,d ironin,fl..iI;!I. blo,lrdl
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where yOUl,r~11 find which pattern to use' to create a specific project, Rete r to the pattern instr uctio n s ttl a t St8 rt each secno n for th e ba s ic
construction of: the project.

• ,SPE'C,IAIL,'TOO LSI OR MATERIIALS
In the pattern instructions. you'll learn how much . The information
.'

vardaoe you need for t:he basic desiqn, as well as an'y basic tools and matertels vou'Il ne,ed tOI make B, handbag frorn that pattern, But here" in the project instructions. vou'll find listed anv razzle-dazzle tools or supplies that the, dasiqner used to customize the h,andb'ag for the oroiect,

under this headinq wnl te,lI you how he' construction 101 a particular project m,ay vary from the pattern on which litis

oased
yOU!

.. [B 8 sure to read a 1111 way throuq the
1

this

instructions

for the [pattern end the project before

start cu ,ting out your nandbeq. An ounce of prevention is worth ,8 pound of fabric scraps,

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The type of fabric used in the' proiect is tisted h8lre~if tab ~'iC' was. Franklv, some · ·
i

I figured out what that to categorize
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lot

the

fabrics were impossible

bl€C,aUS 8
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If you sele a word iin t.y ':e -"ke ' his in the instructions, it's ,altechnique that's exp ained in the IH!and!,b,B'g Ba.sics, Hemernbor to f:!~p

·

thev 'were remnants from outlets. lf 'it is isted as simply

upholstery fabric.

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that's as close as l could get., If vou see, I h e p. __ se',_8reor,81 , or t : ~Ihra - d ,U

Irli'

I],,lal ools or aa ,"-tal
C6'1fd, i:vard

Fabn Deco to f
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in front ot the fabric it means 'the materia is a O,[mI8'decor fabric, not a g'ar:mlent fabric .

back to that section i' you need to sies 'the ~llllustratled
tnstructions for any of

n'

the techniques .

silk: lin IlTiIg

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.. COOL AlLIER
It's not! FolkA'" the I1Slru~ lens '!Of
COfiS U'uC '[I .

'ATIV1-'

us

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II ,00 warM this bag to be
:$\!p6

-slrnC'1i!l.lred. uae bocklOO.

tram ID jnl.en.aee the rl1lJmtl
.ortld back,

If VOid :sl '.er

I'll

[tits bag 10 ha
sil .

a

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you IiiI1a,Y

WIsh '10 OOIlll SIiItil!fl Of

Ad~ he iOOucl,"lfIjgbarer. vou ~Dj)1y ithe JIllerf.sclf!g to Ihe ~rQru~t.Actli.!lal~. I!.:tl!!~kt m was sed n-ste-adt 0 In") r:fscrng o.n Ie: bag (01 6dtfll~OJHJ~ 511~CllIJ[e. ~ C~OChlfLg 1$ &Im~r I \,rilU do IS:S I <:11 (9 ocming In paCE! S 9 ~he :C0i'" 1 _eo va n. USa' a
chenl 10 ncool!lll with I

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'rou rniqht 'find some sugg8-sti'~Jns here ebout how t.o play sro: md wi't~ a desiqn to make it different,

brace let ma~elil It iii little. rn{nf:l dlifJ~cult 10 ~ '~he bag, bLJl all oom' in ~:me- You Jus.t Il\a,ve to manipulate 'he t! ,-ceUu fl5Id'e' Illi bag ,as yo S lien I e si s.
The iiiJoOO mh ngs

Here's a little ex ira sornethinq about

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the desiqn .
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under this headinq generall'y talks

IH,AIPPV SEW~ING
Th i sis into about the proj eet t.hat just might rna ·.,8 'your slewing less stressful end thus more fun, And vou know this book is aH about the fun,

The information

about the decorative aspects of the' handbaq, as opposed to the construction details. Sometimes the line between 'he' two is ,81 little bllurry~

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'1. ,Appilly the interfacinc

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the 'w'rang slide,of the' fabric piece.

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2~ Meas,ure 9 inches down from one, end of the' balg" rnarking at each sidle. Pin one end of the cordi to each side at the marks, malkllng sure

Rememble:r t-o, luse 12~'ilnch seallm ailiowancesl
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the' raw edges are even (figure 2:)., P~!n the, fabric piece "0, the [Iiining,! ri[gihtsides toqethe with the cord between the two [layers and not caught in the seam allowances. Stitch around the Ibag, learv~ng,8 4-inch section open in the end aW8'y from the cord.
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311 Turn tih[e bag riqht sidle ,Q[utthrough the ope nh1g1 andl press. Stitch the openinq Iby hand or machine. F,~~)I~d bottom up 110 the cordi the
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,4~Stitch the sides in place by hand. or machine, sew'ing very close to the 8,d'ge!,.

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This bag cain bier complete y reversible ifr you desire,

so choose a hip fabric for the lininq,

tOOI~

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fold
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V'tary where you pl~,acethe' cord and the fold deplendin,g on row long' you want the, flap to be.

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'The Mless1enger

ot your Ibalg will Hks,I'y dictate the proper material fOI r its co n struction r its de si'gn 'W ill glivlB \1'0IU ani nd iea tic n of' how' structu reid he ba'g- sho - -~Id b e lf yo' ,,_I ,~ , -'.'"," -~ ,-"'_ a tote d esiqnIi!! then ~It- doesn't need t 0- be u cho ose -,fl Uli'" " b - Iii ~,.:','., "-J' ' 'ci'rw
Althouqh the intended
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st~ff..(It will stano up I~)nits own after yOU! load ~tw'ith stuff!.) But if your desiqn calls for

structure, hen 'you'U wan r to add 'interf.ac:ing lor 9'V sn r'ig'id I~~in:ing materials such as crnoline or buckram to make your balg n2h911y stand its ground. Hernamaer that the nniilng of 'your bag might be on dis!p,ilalY i' . every now an d t h en, sal gIve amp Ie consiiderati eranon to " too" Itt
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handbsqs ar,e being made of 'wire' mesh, papier-rnache, rubber, even recvcled plastic baqsl Even so, II'et~s take 01 look at more' traditional materials

I s · IF'et. fro m a er afts sto lie ~ 'I'tl e ,P e rfect e h 0 iive ' 'o'ir it h s fr,e~e-'s W I'le d p urse p rl ~
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now, 'The' s'pel~lls you clan cast with fabric slone are rernerkable, LeN3!rnin Q just a I~~ttl,ebout the, properties ot V,cU,'iOUIS mate rial! S wi ~~I a he,IIP you choose 'the rii,ghtones for vour handbaq, Fabrics are comcosed of fibers. and that. II,',,, "t? 'S 'f,-'-",lI"m-: 1- III seems. a I~,"-"'. 'I 'prace : 0' s rarrt d·ioesn ·"t ~.,.o """, h ere s some I~nen a' tton ·a'bout Iloglllca . II .e to st fibers snd the fablrj'lcs that are made from them,
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What~:s, not to love a b'odut cotton? 'It's washeble. breathable, and comes

~n a

Iminld~bloggllinQ array of we,ights Bind textures. Its. ease i1nse'wing makes it a perfect choice for .8 first Ihan,dbal'g~or ,91 second or third, as, a matter of fact. Cotton's strengths a rei its ,duralblil~tY'I' its density. ,andl its ,abliill'lIty to drape 'w'lellllll. You're probably aware of its lirnitations=it tends tlO, shrink and wrinkles fairIlly ,e,as:ill'V. BIB sure 0 prewash cotton fabric before you ssw I mean it,

Line, '.
W~th its lustrous fibers from the flax plent, l'inen so impressed the

Egy'p,tians that th'8'Y swaddled their mummies in it, ILi~nenis more expensive than cotton, b,ut offers many of co-ton'! advantaqes: it comes ~in mvriad of: .a 'weights, from h.8ndlke'r(;hie,f to s,uiti~ng; is stronq and durable (even stronger

when wet then dry~ ]iust. in case 'you and your b',ag g,at eauqht out in the rain); enc dves beautifullv. ,As wonderful as. lit is, linen wrinkles like crazv and loses 'its characteristic crispness when lauodereo (so 'you Ireallly' don't warn i 0 Iga't. C81uglhtin the rain with your Hnen purse), But these are ~,e,ss important considerations for ,;3 bag than BI g,aJlrme'ntr because sfter alii' vou won't Ib 8 wealr'ing it, will 'you?
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Special 'Ioo 8 and Materials
o/4=i'nc'h pi:p~ngr 1 y'ard

~'How It's Different
.,
• '"

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o/4-~'nc:h cO'lrd~ngl~ va rds 11Y4

· • • · know that." [but look at' pl~pli,ng in • · ~ Halndbag Basics, p,agh9 22, if you
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need t,OI,,) 'The side seams elf this

I"d h so .~tWOU~I,ave
Decorator tapestry:

'" ibl no VIIS,I', 18 seams

silk duoloni ~·'ninlg

o,n either side' when you reverse ~t. Use' strong thread and tiny stitches ;; if you decide vou want that look for your baq, too.
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Silight:ly Eleglant:

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one' A too cJteatlve.

llofl
ij

Bas Pa.ttem
lrh;e IMesse'n'g'I'If'

, [~hru robe. JteUe1lALb~e. W' cf.u,P~a:-J ih olieJt 6,~/roo.

on1u one bl-,... oL adoltYU"tWlt, , d 'a'~e U

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There are B couple IQlf ittv-bittv ehanoes here, Th_'9 first is the fabric e..ft!.ra p If'"'0-' In' st ru C" . t- "e',d·, 1·1 k I'e' e k·· n" n'y··... I ~'Ill.'t-llle:I * . 'Stiraipi I, in the' Handbag B,lsiiies, (pIBlge, '19)" lt's ebout 4,51 inches lone, Also" The Artist has been folded so this flap is as lonq as the bagl.
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Opholsterv. ,.t-"'- ,.,-~, upholsterv lin Ilnlg-:

How It's Special
.

~ A II t _ _v' ale c-· ut. t reo m'.. e" .. nt 's- ~, re" ad d s· rd- b~,l h-, ..:. .::.'. C'. freeform machine couchinq, usi~ng invisible thread. Just place thiS trim at the edge of the Gut piece and start S'ti'tching,. l.et your muse do the restl
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HANIDMADIE BY

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Fold under 'the raw edqes oi the Upholstery trim,

114 yard
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flap:

sandwich the trim between

COlrdll'ngl, 3(4 yard

the tW'IO 1IIIayers Baste in place ;by'
Fold the bottom 9,dl'ge' as dies ired, but: don 't stitch the sl des just yet.. Now, decide how ~llalngyou want the strap, remernberinq to f~g'ure ~'nths lenqth of the sides ot the baq, and cut the~cording. Sandwich t:he' f~:,ange'of the cording between the' two folded layers ot tabric. Stitch the sides and U8 e al srnaf pair ot scissors to remove the' exoosed flanqe along the handle
hlfU1d.
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Fabric

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This Ib 8ig 'is a scaled-down version of The Messenqer, the b,ag pattern oieee reduced to sbout ,9 x 22 inches, Ile'ave 'the flap end open when you stitch the, fabric and lin~ng toqether,
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Oh k~OUJeM (naom,.& ch -dnen aI: p~~. b~ '; ',' 1h[A. ItA one ha.ppM-ba.~
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How It's Different
This bag is based on 'The .. MlessB'nlger as the main pattern piece is just one 111,arge'rise-tangle,
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lf you were fleelll~lng, lntle less like a
spring and more, like summer. vou could reverse, this baq to displa-y

Fabric
Decorator sateen; decorator

cotton

11~lning

· i ..
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.. .. ..

n)uglhl'V 13 x 20 inches. Cut one " ~ larqe rectangll,€ from each ofthe

coordinatino fabrics, Fold the fabric ~ piece in h,a~f ith r~ght sidos togethw ..
..

the fabric U1S9,dl in 'The' Summer Day' -. - --.. ( page 62'-·') C'·'.- - ~ IIIU h? ·.,00.1" Ih. __,~
1· ... ·.· .•..

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~ and press, 'pressingt under the' raw .. ~ edges 10lf thel side seams. R'sp'sat

Fold the top edqes ot the 'b,81Q under

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'inch and press: dlo the same for the !,~ninlg., P'ush the lin~ing inside tlhe
112:

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handbaq, wronq sides toqether, snd

pin aio'fI!g the top edlge's" Create ,8 .'. casin'g at the top by stitchinq 1/4 . · .. .. inch from the edqe and again 3/4 .. .. inch frorn the edqe. lf desired, tack this balg and lin~ingitoqether Bit the sides ,at the! t01P of the seam, Slip
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the handles

into this casino.

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Leather punch 'Tapestry needle

l.at the .s,e'w~lngl rnachlne take ,8 break, .and stitch this one toqether by hand" (They would've done it that way in Haiqht-Ashburv, rnan.l

'Wax,ad threeo

Suede

I' ..., _ "., ., ... d punc h to rna k hi" ""e __ 0_85 ll,n t hIe suede. ,·,~v _ 'UI,~r;.;:JIl~ I~,··. Use the tapestry , needle end the
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l.ine up the' bottom edqe ot the flap with the bottom ,edlgs, of the, handlbsig enid i~nst:allthle grommets at the inch from each corner of the bal'g., Cut three strips of suede to desired length for the strap and braic them toqether, Thread the strap throuqh the grommlets, and
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Ba~2 10 fabrlc~,2 10lf ~iiln.nlgj1' 2, of f'elt ('flolr' interf,alcing'~·I:1
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l'~Place the 'f sb ric: pieces ri Qlh t side S tog ether a,nd pin in p,ia ce' ,along t he \la" ,:~.::_ ~,J,:_:-:, : uJ b B ',:' edqe .,'f! u~-IIIe insertinq ~ Z;'ppAIi!! ~IS "11'ln the Han-'d- _-"M ,:: _: 'la's-'iic'e' _' _ . ~ ,", iu'~ 'v' _ 'iU!! II-~ b'~g-I ~_~~ _:_~, but top '_.
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from each end instead o't 1 inch.

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landlbag "16-2,3

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on p,aaes

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2~ Press this seam coen turn~inlg the raw edges under. Pb3De the zipper U "__: I~".:.' _111I:'~,j .~, ., -mder the pressed edges' >= "'.. p-"lln--I in plac ~ 'W' '"It h a 'L_ I-IPP'B' r too rt r-' beg' I'ln and =;J' ,I__ s,titch~ng at tbe top of the' zipper and continue down one sidle until you reach the, bottom LiI'ft the z.ilp:p,er foot, 1IIIeaving the, needle in the down position, and pivot the f,ablriiic,.Lower the zipoer foot and stitch across the' bottom. Pivot aqaln, stitch back UIPthe other sidle of the zipper, pivot, and stitch across the top, Make sue the z~plple'rruns freelv,
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31 To Igi'v9 vour Ibagl some n~icesqueezable S,UPIPort~ add the, felt lnterfaoingi to this 'wnJn'Q side of tbo bag pieces" Trim ~, inch off the tlOIPI of each of the felt pieces that you cut out SiO' the top 9,dlgI S,s of the felt piecJe.s 'fa III 1 just at the edge ot this zipper, Whi'psti'tch the top of the felt to, 'the eldlQle " "' .'.... .... ~ sid ~.,:.= ,'- ,: ...·:·Jtt·, " - , 0, e.,' I't "I ' 'd'" 0-f: 'tho Ie zipper ~>., .... 18>:- t :c, th _8 SI J~s. an.d-_00=' ,om (""';f' th,,', fl' e: t,c.0 th e Ins II 8 0 f l~ape~aS.!le the, bagl stitching as dose as possible to the edqe ('figure :21',. "
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Hemp
Hemp is certeinlv hiiip fyou know what it's made from) and relativelv new on the epparel scene. It's

·

: 1'11:0"-'10'1" · \f \f-II...
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three, times stronqer than cotton and takes, dve very' reedilv, lt's not as soft as, other natural fibers. thou,gh it does soften with leach washinq and is extrernelv durable, 'YoILJ'I~ most often find it in its natun3J~ color '[whi(!h is natural, interestinqv enouqhl 'w'h~,C'h akes m it perfect for surface desiqn such 8iS sim pile dy€~ing~,stencilinq I'
or stampmq.

· · • · Whille yOILJ don't often see hand· u._" _ .,.v' "" !II' · baqs made of w'",'o-=:'Q"=III there's In · · • · · · •
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Spls,ak]ng of synthetics. there are zillions ot varieties, ~nclUlldingl fabrics · ; blended from both natural and svn• thetie fibers. The first synthetic • · • . -I _.., _ :6,_ II 11- ···1 is It fiber w as ray'~ n W· 'Ilh.~c-h I. ~.... formulst "0' •
,
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ell-

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· · · • · soft and dureble, but is,'very · · · · absorbent. l.ike silk, wool has a faJ~lr • · • • complexion and doesn't like pro• · · longed exposure to s,unlll~ight. By the · w',ay, it's a myth that moths eat · · · wool+it's the' moth tetvee that: feed
+
+ +

.

· le,dfrom cellulose (wood or cotton · · fiber), R,ayon (viscose to cyou Brits) · · is somewhat of a, ch,angel~ngl; it · •
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.
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lt's an economical choice" but tencs to IraV'e.,' 81 Ol~~A'-.. I~OS,S In ~ d "'rver -,', '",,' '" '*' , - II _'Q 18. ,',
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shrink it.
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article 1(1 ike! your ~ h~iplnew bag:) should be 'thlore~uglhl~y
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on wool A

Wh'ii~,€linen is lustrous, silk is, jiust plain luxurious lt can be delicate and diephanous (that would be, sheer) or crisp and textu red ~ IBEH::ausdB it's just so luscious, silk is, an obvious choice for a special ha . d__' '_' __'L ba /hether tuck-on d er-vou -ll!"Ii. ,8 rm-a nd-qo-to .. he-theater forrnal or t s iin,g-o'V8!r-vo u r... h0 UIII d e r... nd ta ke... So a
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~ cleaned before bei ng
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stored, as

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Polyester, acrvlic, and 'v'~lnylare ,0111150 synthetic fibers. Back in the, 1:970.s~! : when evervtninq was polyester, · vou could wear a pantsuit for a vear , with no wrinklirq, But it wouilid have smelled pretty funkYJ because P'OIY'BS'I[lerr is not pia rt~C:LJIa rilly breathable'. Nowadays, when vou're looking for fabric for a handbaq, you ~ Iikelv to 'fi nd synthetic fi be'rs, re ~nmaterials such as rnetallics,
r

,

ea

to-the-club kitschy. Yes, s~i~lkis expensive, but 'you don't need much fabric for a handbaq. Silk ooesn't soil F'leadilllyand resists wrinklinq, but It is darnaqed by serious light exposure and can be atfected by perspiration or body oils. Even thouch silk $1881mS delicate, it's ac1u,81U q u ite durable y a ndl stronq,

· · · • , · don't have to finish the ed'ges,. · •

[S,ay hurray 'if vou're

,SI

lazy sewerl)

· • · • • · · · · · · · wool, 'f!eliit ms now maids from · •

faux furs; or faux suedes. Mo,d'Birn synthetics rival r,ayon in the albH~ty ~ to imitate natural fibers 'The: weara ... ~ bilitv land hand' tbow it feels) ot • · svnthetics hS,V'9 iiimprove'di g1rs'Btilly •
• , • • ~ • •

sync,

OV8'lr the' 'years" Thsv are often an

thetic fibers too.

· • · · • · · · ·
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· • · • · • ·
,

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10

11 sq __re ~ 2 in hes a

~ F"'ure ~ II:

4,~Open the zipper about 1 inch. (If you've decided to add a strap, now' is the time to pl~'n ln piece at the ()O,rn'8'W[or comersl, the raw edges eleven it

with the raw edges of tbe side seams of-he bag., [Be sure .he' stra ."is between the bl¥'lsrs and be careful not to 'catch it in the' seams as y'OUI sew), Take the handoaq, 'place the riight: sides toqether; and pin in place, Stitch all this wa"y around the sides and bottom of the b\8 g (figure 3),. Trim the seams and c~iplthe corners, FuUy open the zipper and nirn t:he bag right side out.
t

!5. Take the I~ininglpieces and place them riglht sidles toqether: pin in place. Sti .ch around the' sides and bottom but leave the top edgl9 open, stiitching in onlv 1t2 inch from each edg9,. Cliilp 'the rCUlN'IBS., (This is, L'iniiing II ~nthe Ha . I.:. baltg B,asil~~s,.)1
t

6'"1 Turn onder tbe 5'BaJm al~ow,alnceon the open portion of the lining and, press Leave the I'ining wlrong side out, Place lit inside the baq, mratching' the edgI8s,. Whipsltttchthe pressed 9:dg19 of the Illining t.o the zlip'per tape, hidi-_'g the stitches as much as, possible,

· •

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hartdba~fA adoJ1J1JU1wd:h th
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Silk: satin lining

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· . Make
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separate pattern piece for

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the black that includes the asvrnmetrical flap, based on Th'9 Clutch pattern; use the template in 'figure 1~ Cut out a lini'ng for the flap 'from 'hie. silk" usinq just the f~,apoortion of 'the back piece as indicated, After lining the' pieces with telt ,as described In 'The,'Clutch instructions {pagl 8 54,)1, stitch the 'Iap' ILlininlgto the f~alp'around the 'top edqes, right sides toqethsr. N,ow stitch the front and this back of: the clutch toqether, right side toqether 'Turn under the raw edoe of the filiap lining andl press" Turn tbe balg riglht side
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back
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Mak,e the' clutch lin~ngand leave ,~,t inside out, Place the top e,d,ge algainst the front of the haq.Take the edqe on the outside, facin,g you, and piitn it tc the too edge of the lbagl movi~ng the ,edge closest to 'the ba'g out of the way,. The right sides shoulc be, toqether. Stitch across the' 'front of tbe bag onlv, stoppiing at the side seams, Turn the, nnin,g irrtc this baq. Press this front edqe.
f

Place this necklace across! the back of the bag where the flap meets the baq, ,putting it under the clutch ~lining. Stitch the linin'9 ~nplace by hand. Bel sure and stitch well where the' necklace emerges from the lining to holld iit securely in plaice Fold the raw edge of the flap lininlg over this ,. ciUt c''h I'Inlng~ 'Wh" upstitcr h i place. in
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HANDMADE

B,Y

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man a handba.!J1 and moJte than. a bMc.e1et(fA haute ICOUfwte. dnd d: knowA It:, 1:00
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:8' .•.. eelal Tools

· How It's Special
Tal add the bracelet handle to the' ~ " balg~make a piece like Str',ap B from the allndball) Bas,ie,s, (page;
11 9
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or Materials
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this one ~;n ls pro] ect th

was,

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cut to 2 x ,4 inches, but this size [Embroidered silk taffeta: satin llin'ing · ,c.OIUI,dv8iry dependinc on the width ~ · • ot your bracelet. Fold the fabric ~ handle around this bracelet Bind ~ . lOW ~ ~ ~ stitch to encase the bracelet. ~
" "

· , · •
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~ ~ " ~ ~ ~ ~ ~
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It's Different
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stitching Sit either
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in ·t·e.··a·d f
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1.1; t~

side ot the zipper inch. ," in d_~''''''.,u. icated I'n-I ..... a·,(';' _
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The Clutch instructions.

The 9=~'nch

zipper was shortened 'to fit into

this open,ing.

,Adl,d the, bracelet handle before you install the ziIPP'8'L P~n it 1;2 inch 'from the side at this top edl'ge'~, raw 8 dgl'9S tooether. Stitch I~t o tbe ctutch as t vou SI8'W the 1 -inch line of stitchinq b .. , to osqm msta II' Ing 'the, apper
1

He pfu Hint for · H,apP'Y Sewing
~ ~ ~ ~ ~
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HlANDM,A,DE.

18,'1

The' bracelet makes it a little 'more' · diffjcu~t to sew the bag" but aU good' • ~ • come ~n' t·im·,··,B.··.r.ou !Iu-~th-O\\~'e· · •. 'y J ~ t-h'l.n·g··.'C' • gv..::: ~ · ~ ~ to manipulate th 9'·1 b ra:· ..·t ,"n"'s"~d':- e·-· .... CIB,"e ~ ~ · ~ 0:- IU stitc 'h the S 1·ld···· Q,S ~ ·th·" e"": ,b--a::='lg-~,~ · •
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SI,ightlly Ellelg I'It
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• • •

· · • •

: He pful Hint fo : app· Sewing #1 ..
Nonstick presser foot, tissue PiS per, or tearawav stabi izer
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z oper, 7 inches
1;4 inch grlolmmet [and grlo,mmlet setting tool

Swivel hook

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labric

· to se'w if y01U have al nonstick p_~.ress...· ~ • : er foot, Repeat: This svnthetic fablric ; • · is much easier tOI s,ew ~fyou have • · • · • · a nonstick presser foot, Got lilt? lf · · • .. ~ you don't have one, vou can U$'8 .. · _ tissue paper lor teerawav stabfizer · · • • · • · tOI keep t:he fabric rnovi nlg III nder • • · • · • your pres ... r 'oot fa': ux sri iake.skin ·9';e--'-=.' . . ',~ . ',' · · · · [has SI stubborn streak, but it's fun • ,~ ,•. ~ nonetheless. ..
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· •

Synthetic snakeskin: ravon liniilng

., This bag has been scaled cown When y'QUI divide your pattern slight,~y(about 1 inch a II a rou nd',) pieces into panels, remember to from the orig,inal pattern. Divide the pattern piece for the b,agl"s front into : account 'for the, sesrr BI[l~l,o,w'[alInC,eS ~ ~ when yOIU cut out tho pieces. The three IP,alnellls for visual interest , · · · person who made this clutch lust · • I~page22); topstitch along each rnav have forgotten to do that and -seam. Use ,8 7-ine:h zipper, IIn ste III III was forced to cut out enother pi'9C9'._ the Igrolmmlet after completing ~ ~ ~ 8 00 hoo. the ;bagl.
w
1

· · · · · • · · • · • · · · • · · • · .'· ~

Sines this' abric won't ravel, you clan make a .siimp~e,strap biy merely t:urn~ingunder the raw edges land st~tc:lhingl into place, Attach the[ strap ;; tal a swive! hook secured in place b,'y hlta stitches, 10 h! ~ nd nsteao ot felt, this. clutch hIes a laver of thin batting ~ .. ibetw,sen the, ~ining enid the lbalg tor " extra squeezsbilitv. And it features a pocket inside, You've got to store liifef's I~ittl,etreasures somewhere.
.. " .."
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Va~eJUe ~lhnacleJt

HANIDMIAO',t BY

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Hi.p&nde¥.
,Somew:· [sr··.
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: Oh, PlcmcA and ALtnlIhlne. The ~Ul'YU'YleJl D1aJJu f:DW~~ lleIJeJ(!i.bee and tota~~~UJt. '

.

Tihe c utah

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10- k'!!l,Y"c III I"O'C-"W'"C-="O',=' In-"C:='I~n-,·t'IIfI~,·~t~,TO-I IUJ. !I I .~'~ ....~ ..~ ]11!tJ. v ~ ' III,.
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~ ble the GILJtc:h~ stack, alH three sewn ~
~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~
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Decorator cotton: decorator

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m

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sateen lining'

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· . to use fer this clute h ; smce It: s reversible, either fabric could bile this
I

Choose' two complemerrterv

fabrics

.. ., .', • .
a. a.

.,

~ ~ ~ ., ~ ~

one the fabric (the exterior) and one' .'•.~, ., · the Ii n'~ Hnsilde Cut out three, ng • • .' • ~ · clutch pieces from both the fabric ,
a. l ).

Iini ngl or the exte rior; to su it YOUIlf whim. 'To' make .~te,8SY, let's cell
_

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111~ke0'0 on the bot5 torn, the, bodv of the clutch, back feu:ing up; in the middle. the! ftap of the clutch with the' lin~'ngsloe fac~ngl IP; and ion t'OIIP~the II~inin'g ofthe U c'~ uteh ,. Pi n together the' th n39! pieces along the top, leevinq the bottommost laver of fabric and the topmost laver of fa b,ric free '"Stitch through the pinned lavers D',n'/~,as shown ilin'figure, t Push the lin~ingl into the Ib,8igand press flat. Turn the raw e'ldges unoer ani d 'W_h'"- - '"- h tns ipsnc h ~iningto this front of the bag.
pieces toqether
1 :

Al .rnative CO"""o"';11te...
.
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If vou were feell~'ng a li'ttille less like summer and more like sprinq vou could reverse this bag to disp~,aythis fabric used in Th'9 Sprinq IDlav i l~pa,lge,5-'0'''),~ C-"I- - h ·UIII./ ' eV8r~ ~'~

and the lin~ng (six in all), and three

·

.,

clutch pieces from fusible interfaoinlg~Appl~'y'the! interfacinq to the wrongl side ot all three ph9 C8'S, cut from the fa bric,
I

Make, the' front flll,ap by slewing one piece ot the fabric to one piece of the' lin~ng, righ't sides toqether, 111'9'avinlg the t'OIP ledge open, 'Iurn and press. Wit:h riqht sides 't,[)ge·the'r~ S,f;JW the rernaining two lining pieces toqether, Ile'a,v~;ng this top! 9 dg,'9 ooen, Turn and press. IRepeat to, make the body of the, clutch 'from the remaining tWOI fabric pieces. Turn a,ndl press.
1

,a,eeU,on Chandleex ~,rnLth.
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HAINDMAD'E

BY

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F,albr'!c:, 1/2 V'alr' "_
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, _ AJPiPly the, fusib e ii'nterfaciiln'gto the wrong side's of the fabric ba g1 pieces .. With riglihl sides toqether, pin the bag pieces ·toge,tlhelr allong the sides, S,ti tch the seam S·' a· d pres s ern 'O'I-P' en 19 .:::_ n
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2. Baste the buckram to the wronlg sidle of the fabric bottom 'piece at the seamline and triiim the buckram close to the searnhne. Hnd t· 18 center of title bottom by fol,di'ngl the piece ~Ienlgthwise~ mark the centerline at. both s Idle edge's.
:3.. Wlit:h J(,ghtsides tog'8th er, pin the fabric bottom piece to the baq, Imlatclhiing the centerline marks on the bottom to the, side seams of the bag (figlure 2)1.. Stitch the seam, leasing the fullness in this b 8],g as nscessarv ~¥oumay find it easier to pin just tbe fri~rstfe'w' inches and then B,ase the ,bag onto the curve, of the iottorn pli'lece, as you sew') 'Trim the seams and cl[p tne curves, Press the seams t.o the, bottom and turn 'II he' bag right side, out.
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':-:1: fab'ric" ,e',ilc!hl 3.x 13 inches;: 2 lof irnterf:alc:in'g,,,. aae" ,3 x 1,3 irnch,es
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Handles-2.

4i IMak,e Strap A in the Hanl::---uig I='a,iics., Apply the interfaciin'g to the wrong

FI:emle- "Ib'l'r t:o use 'V2.·'!I]IIJ1CI1I m s ea 11,IIII'o'walncesi
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.

Han dbagl II'·:S'I:CSDin plagles ": 23.
~

of the handles; fold one, handle p'i 9C 9 Illengthwise, rigih"i sides toqether Stitch 'the, length of the, handler pivot, Sind stitch across one, end, Repeat for the' second hand a,! Turn the' handles inside lout: throuQ!h the cpen end, Now that yalu~'v',e turned the handlels~ trim the seem from the short ends so leach strap has tWOI open ends with raw ledges. Press both p~leoes flat with the, seam iin the, center.
sides
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5~ P~nthe handles tOI the b,81 Q, r~ght sides, tOlglethler~leach end lof the, strap about 3V2 inches from the side seam. lYou'U be loolking ,81t the seam in he handles if YOU V'8 got it right)
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Satin end VISIV'B't and vumrnv fabrics like that? Weill' both satin

· fiber content, S[Qsatin can be ~ .'

madre from silk or potvestor or clever raven (there it gOIS,Sf cihanging a'g,6Jllln)" but 9'8Ch ot
~ these fibers would! ,b[swoven in

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a standard technique that produces satin's characteristic sheen anc srncotbness. Same thinrg 'with taffeta, charmeuse, and velvet, just to name a flew. VelllvetJ's, plush, to-die-for pile can be created from cotton, silk, or svnthetic f~bers-it;sthe WS aV 9 that's the, key'.. And as Y[QU cen lmaqine, svnthetic velvet wii'~[1be just this teeniest b~t more atfcrd sble than velvet woven from silk,
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Hierei a rll' :5,0m 18,othe - fabrics perfect fo r rna k,~ [9 h and bag,s~,inc lud j' ngl dre corator tabIn rlcs that are designed for draperles and upholstery, Clockwise from tOPI left:: denim; eotto In p rm t;' ,s;yrrthat iC: sna kes,k in; j' acqu a rd: tw i' I~; fie It,; eotto n sir j' p[e; :sy'nt h eli e su 18 e'l n d
and cotton pri nt,

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16~ Stitch

the' liini'ng lbag pii'8 oes toqethsr and then stitch the lilining bottom to the b\a'g~as 'in
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steps 1 througih 3, but teeve 5 indies ooen ,in me bottom seem. Irrn th'9 seams and press them open, Leave the Illining wrongl sidle out. (This is, Liningl A, in this H,anldlb,agl ='IIISdcSi 'if YOLI want to take 8 look at it,,) '7~W~th right sides tooether; place the I~'ningover this lbag and a'~ignthe tOI~],sd'Q'8S,. Pin the balg to the, l'in~'nJlgt Iml8iking sure this handles are ~yingflat between the fabric and the I~ning and not somehow cauqht I~n seam ellowance, IMa1ch the side, seams" Stitch and c~ip this the curves.

ali'

Pul,~ b'8 g right sidle out through the !5.r-~nchhole' in the I~ni'ng," Stitch the openingl C.IOS9,d' 'the by' hand lor machine. Push th'9' nni'ng into this Iba.gland press the, top edge,. Topstitch if vou want to,
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instead of' insertinc the oval bottom piece, Y'IOIU can also make ,8 sirrple tote' from just: two pieces of tabrtc. ILs,ngthen tbe front an,d black pie'lD€ ii'n 1hiiis pattern by about 3 inch ... as. Stitch this ba'Q toqether around the sides and this bottom. Thein" with r'~ghtsides toqether, fold 'the bottom corners so the' seams meet and stitch across thern (fflg!Ulre 3)., 't/o'· iiC!J,1 VO"IU'-V··,oJ cree ted tbe bottom from th- _~~ n- if'~t·y·" little seam • TO-" __ ish 'U._ d the h- and les fin ed ~I'Q __u ·_h;;o, Vllf'Q,~]I·v V,'. _.' v '. "" r __ - ;~, .....JII,J.lul __ I'
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Somlewlhlalt [Flunky
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I:hu ba& want fn he nolued, Olt what? and to l:hink [t'A JtetJeJtAt1~e,. too. Wha"~,,t,a-' ',ho',:,'w'"ijl~· L o",t.'
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Special 'Ioo s 0_ a' erials
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· This is ne,aU'ycool fabric, [Because it's reversible, w~th two lavers ot fabric
-

Handles

., joined toqether at the polka dots, turn it over to cut the' ~'~nin'g pieces efter

1 =i nch velvet ribbon, 4l/4. 'lBlrd, cut: 4' , Into,",' preces t h are 9 blout 'Bit .
a.

2 inche.slong

vou've cut: the b,ag pieces, Make lned pockets as in the Halndb,ag Bas,hts - {p,oJg,e,20,) and stitch them on before you construct the lbal,g;'U,SIB the reverse sidle ot this fabric to make 'the' pockets fer oech side I~bag lininq, depend'Of ;~ng I~)nyour mood), The Polka Dot also features sh~in'Yhandles that aria attached with y'ulmlmy velvet ribbon IOIOIPS; add them (loops and handles) before the I,ining is sewn in. ,A Hin's ot st.~itchiingl cross each ~'OIOP keeps the, handle snugly in plece. a

Heversible decorator cotton

('bag and Hnhlg)

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the chopstick handles. make a 4 X 1'/2-:inch cutout in the center ot the, top olf both b,ag pieces. Clip the inside corners ot each cutout to about 1/4- inch SIQ you can make a narrow' machine : hemto finish this raw' edaes. Assemble this bag as instructed in Th'9 Tote. ~ stitchlnc the cutout as you hem the top 'edgi's. Sew 'the chopstick hand es
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This ·.·.ag not lined, lo accommodate is

Sillk=faced brocade
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across the' cutouts by hand.

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: After you've made this ~i~nlng~ insert · it in clOI the baq, wronq slide's toqetb-

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Decorator brocade: decorator jaccuerd I~ning

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er, Turn the raw edges under and pin toqether along the slanted side ,edges", Stitch. Flo,l~dt -.a' tOPI over this han le, flollding under the raw edqe. a.nd stitch in place bly hand, Hepeat for the rernainmq hendle.

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the decorative trim (this bag · ~ nas two, the! tassles and the fringe) " t'OI fit the finished dimensions ot the .. balg~ U1se a needle and thread tO stitch them Ion o 'this front and back of: the bag.
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S,ililkorglan,z8, Va vard cut into, :24 squares that. are' :2 x 2 i1nch,ss and 2,4 squares, that are 1'/2 x 1'/2 inches
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hair canvas for tbe interfaeinq of this handbaq, W'hs'n vou stitch the seams, be careful not: to catch the 0'=-"r-g-:la-'In-"8'-..-_ squa res ':-._.I~.'," Z "
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Qlros'g ra~ ri bbon 1'/2 n yards cut into 2 pieces that are each 2 6 inches longl
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lnstead of handles, use le,n'gths of glroisglr,a~in ribbon. Pin them into place
before you nne the purse. Place the

Hair canvas
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I:~rdnginside the baq, wronq sidles toqether, with the l'ining(s. edge 181 lit11e lower than the handbag's edqe, The ~ini'ng~stoostitched ~'nplace,
Or, you can add the lining BIS

Polyester taffeta: s~illl~ rqanza o accents; cotton lining

described in the instructions The TOt.'8. Take 'your pick.

for

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HANDMADE

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E.mbellis,hl the front lo;f the baq before you construct it. Cut out the! orqanza squares. Illea\t~ngthe ledges. unfinished, Center ,9 smaller square Qln a larqer one and [place each peir on the front. of the bag in a ,d'ii,agonal orientation. This !bag has three evenly spaced rows of four squares each. Pin the pairs of' orcanza - so ueres ~ place a nd stitch them t.'OI n ttl ,e f ron t:.

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'1~,Ml,ark the dashed lines on the, 'guss,st (this is, this bottom ,o,f the Ibag). Trim this seam aUawa,nces from the buckram and place it in the' center of the gusset between the marked ~inles~ Appl'y the interfa,cing t10 this gusset; ,sa:ndw~'ching' he buckram between the, fabric Sind the ~ntertac'i:ng,. A,'pply the t int'9ri9cing' to t:h1 9wro,n'Q Slide'S of the fabilriiic bag pieces.
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Pin one of' the fabric bag pieces to' the gusse't,~right sides 'tog'Bth,er (fiiilgure 2)1,. Stitch in pl~:alce,~, ,stattingl et tbo too, and continue to wilthin '/2 ~nc'hof the Dorner; pivot Bind stitch to the next corner, Ut may be helpful to clip the' cor... ner of the gusset to make the tum easier.) Pivot and stitch 10 the' top, Stitch the gu,sset to the, r,emai~n~lng bag piece,

Remeimlb,e:r 'ltDI use' 'V2,liiil~nlch saalm allllow,anGes~

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,4~ MI,ak'9 the strap using 81 S~lig,htvariation 'of S',tr,ap A, ilin Hanldbagl Basii'cs. P~,8Ic,ehe, strap pieces riglht. sidles together and pin, {lfa,r '8xtr,2J.1 strength" ,ad,d t lnterfacinq to one of the strap pieces.l Stitch the, t.wo long sides toqetber; "I' ly 'it ~ . ',-- th 'u .. .. ~~'.;Jt 1~'~''I;I~ng ~ ends open; bsca uS tlh~' IS strap ·IIC fa ·1'rf'·..._H.''W" ide' it's ea'e\1' "'lifO"" tum inside IOlut throuqh one oi the ends. Turn and press,
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5 Pin ,o,ne end of the' strap to the' ,guS,SIBt, Ifilght sides, toqether, and stitch in place, IMak~nlg sure the, strap is not twisted, pin and stitch tbs other end of the streo to the gusset en th'9 other slde of tbe bag.,

· · •

· •
· • · · ,
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Horne decor fabrics make awfullv cOiol handoags, ,as vou'Il sele. A,nd you can spend hours ~fl one store ccrnparinq colors and textures, feelin,g each tabric ,. to decide ~1f you're readv to commit or not. (lm going to call these decoretot ~ : isbrios because it sounds SIOI fancv.l Sometimes even the' folks who work in · the stores can't tell you the, exact fl~b'ercontent of 'these' matenals. especialIV iiif vou're shoppino at an outlet: it's some sort of conspiracy perpetrated b,'y th,e fabric manufacturers, But all you have to do is touch the materia' to know whether vou like, its hand Of' not,
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~ There sre splendid weaves in decorator fabrics that are similar to garmlent

fabrics, in that 'they cain be producsdfrom many Id~ifflerentfibers, Damask, jacquard" tapestry, twill." brocade, end chenille aria all fabrics you might meet ~n thl6 horne decor section.You probsblv know these: chlenHlle' has 'the char; acteristic pile you want to' Sink into, while brocade has, embossed desiqns · that seem to f oat Ion the surface. .Jacquards are' bandv for purse making, because it's mike gettingl two fabrics in one: the 'wrlongi side ot the' fabric is the reverse of the ri,'ght sidle in both pattern and color, Prettv nifty.
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~ This ha ndbag combines decoratcr and Iga rm Ient fa brics W'iith · exterior and sltk dupionl Iin'ing. Bette.r yet,. it's reversible :

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~19 1-· '. as In step:',2' 116'Bvin'ga 5-in,c h' op,6'nJ'ngIn one 0:f tbe bottom 1· . .'. ' Irn~n,g seems. Priess the seams open (l.ook at. Linliilng A in the, 'Hlandbag Basles ~f you want tOI take a peek et the i~ILJstratiolns. for this. method) l.eeve 'the ~in'~n,g wr,olng side out.
til
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~ _ the 7~P~alce llin'ing over t_'hIe bag, so the

sldes of the b,alg andl the liniiin,g are' t:o'g'9the'r,.Be SUlFe: the strap lis situated properlv between the bag end the lining., Pin the raw ISldlges o'f the l~ining oln1d the bag togetlhe:r~ rnatehinq the' side' seams. Stitch all the way aro,un,d t.h,e too. Trilm th'e seams and ,cl'ip th,e curve's.
dght

F'igure 2

· ~ ·

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8~Turn tbe 'bagl r'~lghtside out throuqh the' 5-inch hole :~n the bottom 'of
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the

·

I~iningl~ Stitch th'B olpening c~osleldb'y hend or rrechine. IPush the liningl into the blag and press the top edg 8. 'Iopstitch if desired,
· •

·
,

lilf you 'want ,a reallll'y stiff bag" use buckram (~n'yard) insteadl of fus.ij'ble interfaeinq. Then you cain omit the buckram insert in the gusset.,

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You won't bel addilngl the strap to this For each piece, sandwich the buckvariation of The' Tuck. lnstced, cut eJl ram between the, two lavers of felt space in1'10 the b,81g p ieces for the, and pin toqethe r Cut. out fe It eircles handle. Divide the gusset into two in a variety ,of sizes. Arrange as p,ili'eees, 0[11119 tor the sides and one for .. desired and pin, Tcostitch in place. · tbe bottom: rernerober to add the ~ Thien topstitch around this handles. .. seam allowance to the n'9'Wpieces. : The sides with olPIpliqu6s en them • S~:nloeThe Cosmos is Illin,ed wi~thfelt, : w;~II'11 the exterior ot the purse, be ~ ~ cut OUit four b,ag pieces, four side Assemble this pieces with wronq pieces, and two bottom pieces, side's fac~ngl end pin, b'eginn'~ng with the sides. Stitch with the seams From the buckram. cut one front, on the outside. Then sew the botone back, two side pieces, and, one torn to the bag~ Iopstitch ,a~lolnlg the bonom piece. Trim away an additop of this baq and tri m ,9lny seams tiona I 3/8 'inch from ,aliiIIIthis buckram '~fdesired, s,dl'gesr ine'ihJdiing those around the' handle areas, IN,oiW' this buckram It's Special won't oeek throuqh after this bagl is stitched, Ap'pliQu9! is an easv W,9'y to add

: Helpful Hin for Happy : Sewing #1
Because felt doesn't ravel, vou

don't have to finish the raw edqes and 'you can leave the seams . ._. d exposeo,

: Helpful Hint for Happy

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: Sewing#.2
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How

: ,A,dd~ngthe, cosmic aplpliilques ;, after yOU'V 9 assembled the felt "sandwi ch hel~p.skeep the' pieces tocether. Slut y'IOIU m~"ght finld 'it a Ilittle easier tc put the a'ppliqLJ9S on before vou assemble the sandwiches, es vou'll be w'orlki'ng with fewer layers of felt.
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some life to this

surface of 'your

handbag. These felt appliques aJa' '8,asi'~ysiitched on by machine

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Divide the strap mto three parts, each faced with the contrastinq fabric. Arn3n,g,e the strap pieces so 'the middle pieoe has dlifferent fabric : on the outside than the, other two, .. ~ ., .. Hnish this raw 'e,d'g,es of thl'B straps, wrrap them around ~he'rinqs, and st itch into place. Add the stra p according to inst-uctions for '. : The' TUrCk~
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; . elpful .in for : ~ap_: Sewing ..
These rnaqnetic clasps hold ight., I mean rerally tiqht, And the skimpv little directions that corns with 'the clasps do not. 'enilliil,ghts'n you to this fact, lf vou use them, be surle that yo u~ ve~add eo Iots of st LJ rdv i' nterfac[ng~,maybe even buckram, under1

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Upholsterv; contrasting upholstery trim: cotton lining
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This Curlicue's 'flap, is faced with 'the li'ning rna' eri~al,;this flap's finished size is about 2'12 x 4 V2 inches, ~Irnsta~ll one h,alf of the maqnetic snap on the f ap, with the, other placed on the, bagJ itself, Construct the 'flap a.nd add it to the b,ag, as sUlgges ed in te H,a_-~dba'g ·as,ics (Ipage 21)r be' erie y'OUI add the Ilining. Hernernber to put this other side ot the mlagln'9tic snap on the lbag before vou [line' it, too. The nning also has a simple I nlin.~ pocket Ilike' the one in Handbag Basics I~plalg'e 2").
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neath bo h parts of this clasp 8 0' ¥'OU cain pull the thiing apart 'without: · tearing 'it out of your fabric .. The'rers some subtile machine qU~lllt-· ..•· • · irngl on the, front of The Curlicue that ••· • • · • 'Differs J .ist a bit of: imenslon. lt's • · verv simple machine quiltinq; App,lly '•,. • '~ . the lnterfacinq 'to the wronq side of ~ , ~

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thie' front fabric balg piece. Place the ~ .' " front wr'Qlng side up and add a iayer .'· · ot battinc cut to the same shape, Then place ,a piece 'of thiin cotton on t'OIP~ a ,s'OI cut to the' same she .18 ot he' baq. Carefully pin tbe lavers toqether, turn, and stitch a~ongthe • designs u,sing a long stitch" ¥.OIU • · • could also stitch it lby hand and use •• '•. contrastinq thread or emorolderv ~ · ~ ~ · ~ floss" ~fthe spirit moved vou,

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8 8'foU3 you stitch the gus.set to the

Silk matka; silk dlupioni panels land lini'ng

Tbis ~IS181 srnall, ado able version ot Th'8 Tuck, onlllY' about 5 x 711.l inches when all is said end done. Paners
have bee -'.C,f 9181 ed 'in tne bag
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and

~ b'sg (and way before YOdU add the liniingl)', create the febric closure, Use 81 rap B 'from Han.': bag IBII,sics (pagls ~19)tO create [8 lenqth of skinny ~ dupioni ribbon; when lt's finished, it ~ should be about 30 inche~s long and about 31B inc-h wide ..With plenty ,o;f : Ilsnglth on 9,ach side. tie three or four , ; knots in th[8 ribbon, ma'kilngl a f:roIQ .. '. : Cut the ribbon to the h1eiiight of the ~ '1 ~ ba'g, ml,aking sure the knot 'w'ill faU in thle middle of the ,gathered panel. Stitch in place Ion the front at the top and the, bottom.
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the gusset pieces, but they differ a ~ittle from the method descriced i'n H,lln :i__ ~la( Basiicl (palge :22).,
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Crea' e hie panels in vour pattern, rernernberinc to BJ,ddl the lt2 seam ... allowance, For the middle section", .. Gut thle febric three times als ~Ioln[g as ; this pattern piece and glath,er it to fit,
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'W'ith the remaining riobon, make a loop at one end to fit the' knot end stitch :' the 1~'OIOPI place ..Cut this ribbon 'to the lenqth necessarv m to close the bag when the ribbon is. sewn in the bottom seam at: the back of the baq, Stitch it in olace before you [add the Igusset~

lnstsad of sew~ng . he panels toqether right sides facinq, turn under a 112-inch hem on the bag panels. pl~'nthe glath,ered panel under these hemmed edqes, riqht side of the [gatlhe.e[d panel to this wronq side oif the bag penels. Iopstitch in place,
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To, ,see if you want this same arrenqement for YOUlf han,db"'g~pl,sy aroun with the sequins on 'he! pat= ,ern before you beglin tOI cut. Hemernoer to account for the lenqth : ot floss rrorn wh"ch [-'he,gllittery · ~ sequins will,dang, e.
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: rnarkec spots. Place tbree sequins : on the f10.s5 a_ lid push the needle • : back into he searn at precisely I he • same place you poked i' throuqh, Let the sequins h,ang from a lenqth : of' '_Ios,s. IRepeat for all t he s,equr Sf • : rnakinp sure the'y al hang '-he same • : distance bellow the' seems.

'Gr,Qs,grr'-.I·n ribbon, narow eno,ugh
tlo'

fit through the' holies in the yard

han _les IPipingl
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~ (remember those seam a 110' anees ~ I just talked about) ,CllInd stitched · · them togl,ethe~, measure a,nd mark · • · · where t 'e sequins will ha 'g. Add · • · • · the' sequins (,99'9 How I'i 's Spelc~an
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¥o _~ need more, .I abric . Sin liS sug U ~ geste,d in The Iuck pattie n ins rue• · ~ tions: 1 yalrd ouqht to, co it. : . :
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Divide the pattern pieces to creste palnl:'~Is as described 'in the I. ,~-'ndb~,~1 "as'i1esl (page' 22,', remsrnberinq to acd the seam lal~llo,w,ances to each panel. The finished size of leach panel is 1'/2 inches wide.

Pin the p,i'ping to the top ,edge' of ~ the handbaq before you add 'hie lin· : in'g~Also, adl,d he handles usin'g rib: bon loops, which S,hOU~,d be pinned ; in place be [ore hie Ilining is, 8_ ded,

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~ This, embellishment was, designed to hang from the seams, SID the handba:. h ..s a crisp" precise' structure. Since the sequins falll below tie, seam on a strand 0 em -',ro~:d1ery floss. rather' han be~ln,g stitched tightly 'to the b. g, they shimmy with the movement o,f the purse (and with voura tool.
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Use three strends of erribroiderv iloss, tOI sew 0 r che' seqeins. Insert .he' needlle tom the back at the

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Faorics intended for draperies [are' IgeneraUy li~glhter ~nwe,'ght than tradit'onal uphols ery fabrics and are sometimes marked in the, s[e~iv'leld[ge BiS to f~ber content (if vou've just glot to know), Companion ebrics are often available in cornplernentarv colorwsvs, too, 'which can be heloful if you'd like, tlO combine fabrics in vour bandbaq desiqn,
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~Other Materials ·
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· · Okay, enough about fabric. How •

: about other interesting thinas you · · • · · • , · · • · · ·

: can use to make b,ags'?

Uph,oliistery fabrics are heavier and way durable, althouqh some' materials mav be too dense to manipulate while, sewinq a smBl~~ b[alg~To increase their lonqevitv for their intended purpose. some have backinqs that make thern a bit stiff ano a ~ittl,eobstinate when introduced to the presser foot on 'your sew'~ng machine. That said be sure to 'take, a look at the dazzlina variety of decorator fabrics. T'here are beautifu materials to be hald-g:re'at prints, wonderful textures. even some wiiith knock-your-socks-of embroidery and applique as well as novelty shirred Bind crinkled fabrics, And thev're tls,u,8111111y ,54 inches wide, so you can get a lot: of PUlIr'SIB (or purses) IP'81r vard, One more advantaqe to decorator tabrics is 'that thev teind to be pretreated for stain resistance. Yippee] Nlo worries about a sudden rainstorm or a spiiled latte,

[argue the durabilitv ot ~ leather and suede (suede beinq the,
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I~t:tshardl

t;Q[

finished, slkiln side of leether). Garment-weiqht

leather and suede

: cain ble sewn ,easi~~ly just [eJ few with ; considerations. Hrst. use small

· binder clips, rather than pins, 'to · ; secure the' IPi[9e:8S for sewinq. Be • · sure to use ,a needle desiqned for · lea 'heir; these needles have u ique : beveled points. USIS a nonstick ., · presser foot and fiiinger press this • · : seams opsin (Huh? Silas, paqe 37t • · • · then tap .hem w'~tha rna let. Glue • ~ : · : • ;

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There ,are a fle'w' th~ngs to keep in mind about your fabric's motns. If the' pattern epeats are large; you mav not be eble to capture the essence 'o[f the' fabric's dles~g'non tne sml,alH canvas of [8 baq. On the other h,and~,you may ~I~k.e[ the just suggestion Off' the motif on the felice of vour bag',. lf vou're choosinc stripes and 'yOU! wan to match them, ylOLJ rnav need extra fabric. lKs'8 P the scale' of vour baq in mliiindl Wihliil,e you're shoppinq for fabric (or di'g'glin,g thr'oug~ your stash" as this case may be),
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· lor stitch seam allowances open" · • ·

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Here's the good news-these materials don't ravel so 'you don't have i0 fin~.sh the s,dl'gss,.,Do I [hear another hurrav from the lazy f,oU<S?'

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The size. o,f this balg W'ClS inClreased from the basic palttelrn to fu,lly SI Piore elate the! motifs 10 In 1:he fa brlc,

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